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From PERFLOWERS@aol.com Mon Oct 1 00:02:59 2001 From: PERFLOWERS@aol.com (PERFLOWERS@aol.com) Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 20:02:59 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Blocking out Bermuda grass Message-ID: Starlene, There is a product called "Manage" that kills nutgrass. The nice thing about it is that it kills only nutgrass - it doesn't bother anything else it is sprayed on. I had about a 12 x 12 area that had nutgrass growing in it for about 3 years. I finally got around to spraying "Manage" on it several weeks ago. It killed about 1/3 of it, so I am going out to spray again tomorrow. I may have to spray a third time, but that is my own fault because I let the nut grass get so far ahead of me. The saleswoman told me that it doesn't work very well once the temperature goes below 85 degrees. Round-up kills Bermuda grass, but you have to be careful with using the spray. I killed a Mt Lemon Marigold because I think the spray drifted over from another plant I was spraying. I also have a couple of undesirable bushes growing in with a desirable bush. I bent a branch of the undesirable bush to the ground and anchored it down with a rock - then sprayed the branch with Round-up. It killed only the branch I had held down with the rock - I was hoping it would kill the whole undesirable bush. I am going to fill a small sprayer with pure Round-up and spray it on a couple more branches and see if it will kill them quicker. Bermuda grass roots go very deep and somehow always manages to creep in where you don't want it. Val From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Oct 1 00:30:21 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 20:30:21 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ants taking off with worms Message-ID: <11d.5109490.28e9131d@aol.com> --part1_11d.5109490.28e9131d_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Beverly, Sprinkle some cream of wheat on your plot where the ants are located. The ants will eat it and swell up and good by ants. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_11d.5109490.28e9131d_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Beverly,

Sprinkle some cream of wheat on your plot where the ants are located. The ants will eat it and swell up and good by ants.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_11d.5109490.28e9131d_boundary-- From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Mon Oct 1 04:06:15 2001 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 21:06:15 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Blocking out Bermuda grass In-Reply-To: <012c01c149f0$5ab9f6c0$e8c8e13f@pavilion> Message-ID: <20011001040615.73187.qmail@web14903.mail.yahoo.com> I reccomend aluminum roof flashing (18") tall. Bury it straight down about 17" and place your edging against the inch or so sticking out of the ground. It works well and lasts years.For nutsedge, the best thing I've used is "Manage". It can take more than one application but it works and only on nutgrass. Very expensive!! --- Starlene Stewart wrote: > Hi, > > Someone asked recently about what to do about > getting rid of > Bermuda to plant an herb garden. > > What I've always done is dig out the area completely > and gone > through shovelful by shovelful taking out every > little piece of > Bermuda I could find. I understand if only one > rhizome is left > then you will have a problem. This is a very > time-consuming > task. > > A friend of mine built a screen using wood and > hardware cloth. > He used 2x4s and cut them to make a frame that is 2 > feet square. > He attached one-quarter inch hardware cloth to that > and he puts > in several shovelfuls of dirt and then shakes the > strainer back > and forth over a wheelbarrow. He tosses out the > grass, roots and > large rocks. This process appears to be effortless > for him, but > I've tried it and I just don't have the strength or > stamina that > he does. > > What I've done over the years to block the bermuda > from creeping > into the garden is to line the sides with 2x4's. > But these > aren't very effective as the Bermuda tends to creep > over or grow > under. > > I have Bermuda grass in my front yard, and didn't > want my rose > bush choked out by the grass. I found some aluminum > flashing > that someone had thrown away, and had it trimmed and > fixed to > make a round circle. It is about 8 inches wide, and > I have > buried it under the ground about 4 inches which left > 4 inches on > top. This works very very well at keeping the > Bermuda out of the > rose bush bed. > > What are some other suggestions for keeping the > Bermuda at bay? > I keep thinking there must be some very effective, > inexpensive > thing to use that I am overlooking. I have seen > that Home Depot > has some type of bordering rolled up, about 4 inches > in width, > but that wouldn't work well enough. I find that I > need a border > that is at least 8 inches wide, so that I can bury a > good portion > underground and then the Bermuda can't creep over > the top. > > I'm also fighting nutgrass, what a nightmare! > > I guess I'm thinking of going to a sheet metal type > place and see > if I can buy a roll of aluminum flashing that I > could bury around > the perimeter of my garden after I've eradicated the > Bermuda > within. > > As a last resort, I'm thinking of buying a gallon of > Round-up, > but I don't like using pesticides, although it does > seem much > simpler than sifting through all that dirt, and then > using the > Round-up to keep the Bermuda out of the garden as > well. > > Any suggestions are welcomed! Thank in advance. > > Starlene > Phoenix, AZ > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Listen to your Yahoo! Mail messages from any phone. http://phone.yahoo.com From drgarnett@msn.com Mon Oct 1 06:09:58 2001 From: drgarnett@msn.com (Donald Garnett) Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 23:09:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] ornamental pepper Message-ID: ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C14A05.065F8620 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" We have had an ornamental pepper in a container on a back patio through the past two winters here in Tucson without problems, moving it out into a place where it gets as much sun as possible. I suspect yours will survive also if it is healthy. If you're concerned about frost cover the plants with a plastic bag or a sheet on nights with frost/freeze warnings. Don Garnett ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C14A05.065F8620 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

We have had an= ornamental pepper in a container on a back patio

through the = past two winters here in Tucson without problems,

moving it o= ut into a place where it gets as much sun as possible.

I suspe= ct yours will survive also if it is healthy. If you're concerned

about frost cover the plants with a plastic bag or a sheet on nights

with frost/freeze warnings.

= Don Garnett

= ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C14A05.065F8620-- From Ranger1242@aol.com Mon Oct 1 12:53:31 2001 From: Ranger1242@aol.com (Ranger1242@aol.com) Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 05:53:31 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110011253.f91CrVP17891@Ag.arizona.edu> At the home and garden show I noticed many booths dedicated to deep feeding and curing sick queen palms. I know each case is different, but typically in the valley what is wrong when new palm fronds go brown in what appears to be a healthy tree. Also what signs should I look for when diagnosing a problem with a queen palm. Thank you! From outside@jillandken.net Mon Oct 1 15:32:21 2001 From: outside@jillandken.net (outside@jillandken.net) Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 08:32:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110011532.f91FWLP05561@Ag.arizona.edu> I have three trees in my backyard which seem to be dying. I believe the trees are: Ash, Plum, and Peach. Basically, all the leaves have fallen off of all three trees. They are near two Evergreen Elms which are doing just fine. The are on a sprinkler system and therefore get watered along with the grass (i.e., I'm fairly certain they are getting enough water). thanks for any help Jill From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Oct 1 18:14:21 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2001 11:14:21 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Blocking out Bermuda grass References: <012c01c149f0$5ab9f6c0$e8c8e13f@pavilion> Message-ID: <3BB8B27D.63B32F89@qwest.net> Most of us use barrier methods like your aluminum flashing. Although glyphosate [did I spell that right? aka Roundup] is effective with bermuda, I understand that Manage is better for your nutsedge problem. Even so, it will require a few applications, and your diligence. Linda Guy, MG Starlene Stewart wrote: > Hi, > > Someone asked recently about what to do about getting rid of > Bermuda to plant an herb garden. > > What I've always done is dig out the area completely and gone > through shovelful by shovelful taking out every little piece of > Bermuda I could find. I understand if only one rhizome is left > then you will have a problem. This is a very time-consuming > task. > > A friend of mine built a screen using wood and hardware cloth. > He used 2x4s and cut them to make a frame that is 2 feet square. > He attached one-quarter inch hardware cloth to that and he puts > in several shovelfuls of dirt and then shakes the strainer back > and forth over a wheelbarrow. He tosses out the grass, roots and > large rocks. This process appears to be effortless for him, but > I've tried it and I just don't have the strength or stamina that > he does. > > What I've done over the years to block the bermuda from creeping > into the garden is to line the sides with 2x4's. But these > aren't very effective as the Bermuda tends to creep over or grow > under. > > I have Bermuda grass in my front yard, and didn't want my rose > bush choked out by the grass. I found some aluminum flashing > that someone had thrown away, and had it trimmed and fixed to > make a round circle. It is about 8 inches wide, and I have > buried it under the ground about 4 inches which left 4 inches on > top. This works very very well at keeping the Bermuda out of the > rose bush bed. > > What are some other suggestions for keeping the Bermuda at bay? > I keep thinking there must be some very effective, inexpensive > thing to use that I am overlooking. I have seen that Home Depot > has some type of bordering rolled up, about 4 inches in width, > but that wouldn't work well enough. I find that I need a border > that is at least 8 inches wide, so that I can bury a good portion > underground and then the Bermuda can't creep over the top. > > I'm also fighting nutgrass, what a nightmare! > > I guess I'm thinking of going to a sheet metal type place and see > if I can buy a roll of aluminum flashing that I could bury around > the perimeter of my garden after I've eradicated the Bermuda > within. > > As a last resort, I'm thinking of buying a gallon of Round-up, > but I don't like using pesticides, although it does seem much > simpler than sifting through all that dirt, and then using the > Round-up to keep the Bermuda out of the garden as well. > > Any suggestions are welcomed! Thank in advance. > > Starlene > Phoenix, AZ > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Oct 1 18:25:46 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2001 11:25:46 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grape Damage References: <200109291936.f8TJaCP04541@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BB8B52A.C6090FF3@qwest.net> Most caterpillars are controlled with a biological product called Bt or http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/clubs.htm Here are some links to discussions on a grape pest, the grape leaf skeletonizer, whose colors don't precisely match what you've described. You could identify the skeletonizer with photos at the second link. http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/insects/westgrapeskeletonizer.html http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/insects/stingingcaterpillars.html When I took my MG training years ago, I being told remember that grapes for the homeowner was a more difficult challenge than a commercial endeavor. In the latter, the field's perimeter tends to sustain the worst damage, leaving the interior to harvest. A homeowner has no such advantage. Don't know if this is true, but it is was I remember. Linda Guy, MG pmbarker0304@hotmail.com wrote: > I have a grape arbor, and it was lush this year. Then beautiful midnight blue moths, created beautiful yellow and blue caterpillars which decimated my arbor before I knew it. How can I share the arbor with nature, and minimize plant and fruit loss? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Oct 1 18:45:32 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2001 11:45:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fish Hook Barrel Cactus References: <200109150339.f8F3dcH28265@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BB8B9CC.98D38AD2@qwest.net> It looks like you haven't received a reply yet. There is more experience with members of the cactus and succulent world at the Desert Botanical Gardens. They have a plant hotline weekdays, 10 - 11:30 am, 480/941-1225. Sorry we weren't able to help. Linda Guy, MG beej17@earthlink.net wrote: > I have had a fish hook barrel cactus in my yard for 20 years.It did not bloom last year and it looks like it isn't going to bloom this year either, although it has some buds. > What could be the problem? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Oct 1 18:56:48 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2001 11:56:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grape Damage References: <200109291936.f8TJaCP04541@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BB8BC70.4835EA8E@qwest.net> This is a resend to correct information I errroneously copied into the first reply. My apologies. Most caterpillars are controlled with a biological product called Bt or bacillus thuringiensis. Here are some links to discussions on a grape pest, the grape leaf skeletonizer, whose colors don't precisely match what you've described. You could identify the skeletonizer with photos at the second link. http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/insects/westgrapeskeletonizer.html http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/insects/stingingcaterpillars.html When I took my MG training years ago, I being told remember that grapes for the homeowner was a more difficult challenge than a commercial endeavor. In the latter, the field's perimeter tends to sustain the worst damage, leaving the interior to harvest. A homeowner has no such advantage. Don't know if this is true, but it is was I remember. Linda Guy, MG pmbarker0304@hotmail.com wrote: > I have a grape arbor, and it was lush this year. Then beautiful midnight blue moths, created beautiful yellow and blue caterpillars which decimated my arbor before I knew it. How can I share the arbor with nature, and minimize plant and fruit loss? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From j_harrell@NetZero.net Mon Oct 1 19:42:14 2001 From: j_harrell@NetZero.net (Jackie and Bill Harrell) Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2001 12:42:14 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus fertilization Message-ID: <3BB8C716.81FD29DB@NetZero.net> Dear Master Gardener, Is it too late to give my mature Arizona Sweet tree 1 more cup of ammonium sulfate which I still owe it? The last feeding was May-June of 7 cups, but I'm late for this last one; still, it's been so hot - what do you think? Would it be o.k., or should I forget it? Jackie Harrell --------------------------------------------------------------- NetZero Platinum Only $9.95 per month! Sign up in September to win one of 30 Hawaiian Vacations for 2! http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97 From dthill@msn.com Mon Oct 1 21:12:46 2001 From: dthill@msn.com (dthill@msn.com) Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 14:12:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110012112.f91LCjP21195@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a Brazilian pepper tree infected with what I believe is verticillium wilt. What I have read indicates no cure and the fungus lasts for several years in the ground. What I would like to know is can the fungus be tranported to other plants in the yard and if so, how. Also, I would like to have two lists: 1) Shrubs and trees susceptible to the wilt, and 2) Shrubs and trees resistant to it. From se20113@aol.com Mon Oct 1 22:18:13 2001 From: se20113@aol.com (se20113@aol.com) Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 15:18:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110012218.f91MICP05586@Ag.arizona.edu> We have two Podranea ricasoliana (pink trumpet vine) planted on the South West exposure of our house. They keep yellowing and the leaves and most of the flower buds turn brown and drop off. They were planted in April of this year. What are we doing wrong? They are on our irrigation system. Thank you. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Oct 1 23:23:44 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 19:23:44 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Verticillium on a pepper tree Message-ID: --part1_bd.14d25777.28ea5500_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Are you sure that your pepper tree has Verticillium? Since the fungi that causes Verticillium is only active when temperatures are between 70 and 85 degrees F which means the symptoms usually only show up in the spring or fall. The pepper tree is very susceptable to Texas Root Rot and the symptoms are similiar except with TRR the roots rot and with V they do not. With TRR the leaves will usually stay on the tree. With V there is usually vascular discoloration in the roots and lower stems. Why not take a root sample ( finger size x 1 foot long ) to Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for an ID. While there pick up a bulletin on Verticillium and Texas Root Rot. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_bd.14d25777.28ea5500_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Are you sure that your pepper tree has Verticillium? Since the fungi that causes Verticillium is only active when temperatures are between 70 and 85 degrees F which means the symptoms usually only show up in the spring or fall.
The pepper tree is very susceptable to Texas Root Rot and the symptoms are similiar except with TRR the roots rot and with V they do not. With TRR the leaves will usually stay on the tree. With V there is usually vascular discoloration in the roots and lower stems.

Why not take a root sample ( finger size x 1 foot long ) to Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for an ID. While there pick up a bulletin on Verticillium and Texas Root Rot.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_bd.14d25777.28ea5500_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Oct 1 23:23:47 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 19:23:47 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Trees dying Message-ID: <97.1c0ac023.28ea5503@aol.com> --part1_97.1c0ac023.28ea5503_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jill, If the only water that your dying trees are getting is from the turf irrigation then your trees are most likely dying from drought stress. The water that you are applying to the grass is probably only penetrating 6 to 8 inches deep, the trees need water down to 3 feet deep. Lay a hose at the tree and let it run slowly overnight for proper irrigation. Check out this site for info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_97.1c0ac023.28ea5503_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jill,

If the only water that your dying trees are getting is from the turf irrigation then your trees are most likely dying from drought stress. The water that you are applying to the grass is probably only penetrating 6 to 8 inches deep, the trees need water down to 3 feet deep. Lay a hose at the tree and let it run slowly overnight for proper irrigation.

Check out this site for info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_97.1c0ac023.28ea5503_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Oct 1 23:23:45 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 19:23:45 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus fertilization Message-ID: <21.11f237f5.28ea5501@aol.com> --part1_21.11f237f5.28ea5501_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jackie, Go ahead and fertilize but do it right away. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_21.11f237f5.28ea5501_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jackie,

Go ahead and fertilize but do it right away.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_21.11f237f5.28ea5501_boundary-- From sigcon1@earthlink.net Tue Oct 2 01:10:13 2001 From: sigcon1@earthlink.net (sigcon1@earthlink.net) Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 18:10:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110020110.f921ADP05327@Ag.arizona.edu> Do you have information on u-pick farms and apple orchards in AZ? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Oct 2 02:24:24 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 02:24:24 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] u-pick farms Message-ID: regarding: U-pick farms and apple orchards in Arizona Call 1-888 PICKED-4U for information or to order a free copy of the "Arizona Farm To Family Directory". Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: sigcon1@earthlink.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 18:10:13 -0700 (MST) > >Do you have information on u-pick farms and apple orchards in AZ? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Oct 2 15:19:22 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 08:19:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Podranea ricasoliana [pink trumpet vine] References: <200110012218.f91MICP05586@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BB9DAF9.804A882A@qwest.net> Mary Irish writes in her book, Gardening in the Desert, that it should reach its peak bloom in October. Grows well in full sun on a hot wall [it appears you have it in a good exposure], although it can take partial shade and is not at all fussy about its soil. She suggests a light fertilization or application of manure in late summer if the leaves yellow, which evidently they do on occasion. She also notes that the plant may appear to sit still its first year in the ground, going gang-busters by its third season. A hard pruning should be done in January, before new growth which is where the blooms will appear. This suggest watering may be your issue. Mary suggests a deep soak [I'd suggest to 2'] every 5 days in summer. Jones/Sacamano's Landscape Plants for Dry Regions suggests an even less frequent application of water: every 1-2 weeks. With blooms dropping, I'm thinking that the water is either too much and/or too frequent. Try giving the root ball a chance to dry out, if it is soaked. Both sources suggest good drainage is needed as well as substantially cutting back on the water in winter [say 2-3x during the whole season]. Linda Guy, MG se20113@aol.com wrote: > We have two Podranea ricasoliana (pink trumpet vine) planted on the South West exposure of our house. They keep yellowing and the leaves and most of the flower buds turn brown and drop off. > They were planted in April of this year. > What are we doing wrong? They are on our irrigation system. > > Thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Oct 2 15:29:37 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 08:29:37 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palms References: <200110011253.f91CrVP17891@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BB9DD61.EAC57B6D@qwest.net> Queen palms give a lovely, tropical effect, which is why so many folks want them. But unfortunately, it is a poor choice for the low deserts of the Phoenix area which may explain why so many outfits are around, trying to help the homeowner with their management/care. They are not a desert palm, do not prefer our alkaline soils and sometimes suffer from our hot, dry winds. They're a better choice for the coast. We have a palm publication which you can access for general palm care as well as a discussion of the individual palms themselves at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Look for AZ 1021, in the ornamentals section. This palm likes extra nitrogen and iron, and is susceptible to manganese deficiency. A good palm blend of fertilizer should help alot. Linda Guy, MG Ranger1242@aol.com wrote: > At the home and garden show I noticed many booths dedicated to deep feeding and curing sick queen palms. I know each case is different, but typically in the valley what is wrong when new palm fronds go brown in what appears to be a healthy tree. Also what signs should I look for when diagnosing a problem with a queen palm. Thank you! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Oct 2 15:36:13 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 08:36:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Aptenia cordifolia [Hearts & Flowers] References: <200109172223.f8HMNuV09464@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BB9DEED.BE7E0A9E@qwest.net> Possible problems: Foot traffic [it tolerates none at all]. It requires more water than adjacent arid-landscape plants on its drip line [but still needs to dry out between waterings]. Needs excellent drainage, and prefers better quality soils [perhaps your soil is a bit 'tired' now after several seasons]. Plantings suffer and may die due to rot, if overwatered, especially during the monsoon [hot, humid] weather. Hope this helps. Linda Guy, MG tburrphx@aol.com wrote: > We have a bed behind our pool that we've planted with ice-plant groundcover ("hearts & flower"). Over the past few years it does really well in the spring and early summer -- then very quickly dies -- looks like it's burned or something in various areas. Certain plants seem OK, but huge areas are dry and dead. We've tried all kinds of sprinklers to assure that it's getting enough water -- but now it's dead again. Could it be burning? Or perhaps too much water that's causing some kind of fungus? HELP !!!! Many thanks! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Oct 2 15:45:02 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 08:45:02 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Prpagating Caesalpinia gillesii [Yellow Bird of Paradise] References: <200109212030.f8LKUhP08546@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BB9E0FE.E169CEFB@qwest.net> If you actually have the plant, it may be as simple as looking for 'volunteers' in the adjacent ground the following growth season, since this plant naturalizes quite freely from volunteer seedlings. Indeed, removing these unwanted seedlings will probably become an annual maintenance chore. [The plant's landscape value includes revegetation.] I've never tried to plant the seed, but would suggest a well-drained potting mix, since it prefers well-drained soil. Or plant the seed in place, remembering the ultimate size is 5-10 feet, in more of a tree form. It can grow in low to intermediate zones, but is not hardy in severe cold, dying back to the ground. Your level of precipitation is not much more than we receive in Phoenix. This looks nicer with some water in the summer, say every week or two. Linda Guy, MG rfjts@arn.net wrote: > How do I start desert Bird of Paradise (Caesalpinia gilliesii) from seed/ Will it grow in the Texas Panhandle (3200ft w/19in of rain annually)? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Oct 2 15:56:55 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 08:56:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plum varieties for Phoenix References: <200109212311.f8LNBlP11465@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BB9E3C7.DE9E8454@qwest.net> We have several fruit tree publications, including suitable varieties, at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Unfortunately, they are not online, and you will need to order them from the county extension office. Instructions are at this link. You will need to consider the number of chilling hours required [# hours below 45F]. Maricopa County averatges between 300-400 chilling hours per year. Find varieties that require no more than 250 to be safe. Also select varieties that will mature before the hot summer temps are upon us, else the fruit will sunburn. Finally, if you can only plant one tree, you will need to select a self-pollinating or self-fruitful variety. Those plums recommended for Maricopa County in our publication MC-90 are Beauty, Santa Rosa*, Methley, Gulf Gold* and Gulf Ruby*. [*have been evaluated and performed well in Salt River Valley.] Hope this is helpful. Linda Guy, MG rodgersmichael@qwest.net wrote: > Where can I find information on plum tree varieties that can thrive in the low desert? > > I am interested in a variety I grew up with in San Diego. I don't have the name of the plum, but a Wild Oats Store recently had a black plum called "Black Friar" that was very, very close to what I remember from my childhood. > > Thanks is advance, > > Michael > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Oct 2 16:22:56 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 09:22:56 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf for Shade References: <200109231530.f8NFUiP22119@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BB9E9E0.3EAB8F1A@qwest.net> I believe it to be a matter of shade. Bermuda doesn't grow wiithout sun. And you've indicated that the problem gets worse every year [as the trees grow larger] and it's worse in the front [where the trees are larger in size than those of your back yard]. Turf for shady sites is always an issue here. If you look carefully around any neighborhood with mature trees, you'll see limited vegetation of any kind beneath the tree canopy. St. Augustine is the option I'm most familiar with. I'm including a link to a similar reply, which is in the archives of our Q&A section. You can run your own query on truf for shade and see the others that come up. http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2001-March/006811.html Linda Guy, MG b.marcel@home.com wrote: > Hello, > I have a problem that has gotten progrssively worse each summer. I live in the north central corridor, around 7th Ave. and Northern. I have very large Arizona Ash trees in both my front and back yard. We have totally lost our front yard Bermuda lawn the past few years. The back is better, though there are some patches dead. Those trees are not as large as in the front. So, this year in May, we put in Fescue, on recommendation of Berridge's Nursery. It came in nicely, but by the end of July, even though we fertilized, it started to die. I have absolutely no grass, roots or anything left. The ground is damp, I have sprinklers. We do have some nettle weeds that I've tried to pull out. Now the weird part is, that we have had a beautiful winter lawn that has come in very nicely each fall. One nursery said they thought that with my shade and the Ash trees using so much water, that it has sucked the roots dry. Then, when the trees are dormant, the rye has water to grow. So! > meone else suggesed pearl scale, but that was not the problem last year. We are considering St. Augustine next spring, but I need a solution before we put any more money into this embarrassing mess! I appreciate any help. My phone # is 602-896-5751 at work, and 944-3693 at home, evenings. > Thank you again! > Brbara Marcellus > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From turtletop@aol.com Tue Oct 2 16:44:30 2001 From: turtletop@aol.com (turtletop@aol.com) Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 09:44:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110021644.f92GiUP18402@Ag.arizona.edu> I have discovered a small cut worms in some texans blue bell srubs. They have killed four of these plants. Can I use something to get rid of these worms, and can I replant in the same area? Thanks for any help. From bnd52@home.com Tue Oct 2 18:01:43 2001 From: bnd52@home.com (bnd52@home.com) Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 11:01:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110021801.f92I1gP05832@Ag.arizona.edu> I Have a valencia orange tree that is planted in a large pot. The leaves are starting to curl and the leaves appear to be wilting. What is the problem with the tree, if any. Your response will be appreciated. Thank you, Don Godwin ps. I live in Northwest Florida From fjsandjoyce@retired.com Tue Oct 2 20:21:35 2001 From: fjsandjoyce@retired.com (fjsandjoyce@retired.com) Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 13:21:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110022021.f92KLZP07308@Ag.arizona.edu> Need help in two areas as follows: 1) Looking for low growing flowering ground cover in 18" wide planter in front of block wall in which we have mini bottlebrush plants. Planter has "umbrella" type sprinklers which are adjustable up to 10 gallon of water per hour and come on when the lawn sprinklers come on. How much water should the mini bottlebrushes and recommened ground cover get vs the lawn? Should the shrub heads be changed to soaker type and if so what size? Would like to put in a couple of sage bushes for desert turtles to eat but how do they hold up to watering? Would like everything to be watered at same time and at same rate as lawn if possible. 2) Lawn soil is beginning to crack and some areas the grass will not grow. Birds are pecking at soil and putting holes in ground. Have tried bent grass, tall red fescue, rye, dicondra, bluegrass and same result- will grow for a while then patchs die off. Watering every other day for about 1/2 hour to a full hour depending of temperature. Have been fertilizing twice a year - same result. Have 2 large shade trees so need grass that will grow in shade and full sun. Is it possible that the soil is worn out? Is there any place to send soil samples to get soil tested? From fjsandjoyce@retired.com Tue Oct 2 20:23:50 2001 From: fjsandjoyce@retired.com (fjsandjoyce@retired.com) Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 13:23:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110022023.f92KNoP07827@Ag.arizona.edu> Need help in two areas as follows: 1) Looking for low growing flowering ground cover in 18" wide planter in front of block wall in which we have mini bottlebrush plants. Planter has "umbrella" type sprinklers which are adjustable up to 10 gallon of water per hour and come on when the lawn sprinklers come on. How much water should the mini bottlebrushes and recommened ground cover get vs the lawn? Should the shrub heads be changed to soaker type and if so what size? Would like to put in a couple of sage bushes for desert turtles to eat but how do they hold up to watering? Would like everything to be watered at same time and at same rate as lawn if possible. 2) Lawn soil is beginning to crack and some areas the grass will not grow. Birds are pecking at soil and putting holes in ground. Have tried bent grass, tall red fescue, rye, dicondra, bluegrass and same result- will grow for a while then patchs die off. Watering every other day for about 1/2 hour to a full hour depending of temperature. Have been fertilizing twice a year - same result. Have 2 large shade trees so need grass that will grow in shade and full sun. Is it possible that the soil is worn out? Is there any place to send soil samples to get soil tested? Thank You - Frank Steinmetz From donne@acumen2.net Tue Oct 2 20:51:37 2001 From: donne@acumen2.net (donne@acumen2.net) Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 13:51:37 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110022051.f92KpbP15193@Ag.arizona.edu> I have three centurian agaves in my yard, two in the front with no water and direct sun and one in the back with water and shade. All three are suffering from some type of rot or wilt. The bottom leaves die and turn brown and then the rest of the plant seems to topple. Help! I don't want to lose these plants. From sjbass@qwest.net Tue Oct 2 21:17:10 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 14:17:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Possible Agave Snout Weevil Infestation References: <200110022051.f92KpbP15193@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BBA2ED6.84D31AC0@qwest.net> Did the condition of the agave in your yard seem to come on quite suddenly? According to Mary Irish in her book, "Agaves, Yuccas and Related Plants", in an agave snout weevil infestation, a plant seems quite healthy, then suddenly collapses, with the outer leaves going first, leaving the central spike to finally collapse too. The damage can take place in a matter of weeks. Weevils are most active and lay their eggs during warm weather. If this is the case with your plants, there isn't anything you can do for them at this point. The weevils are black and about 1 inch long. If you do have weevils, do not plant another agave in the hole where these agave were growing as the larvae could still be present. Sue Bass Master Gardener donne@acumen2.net wrote: > I have three centurian agaves in my yard, > two in the front with no water and direct > sun and one in the back with water and shade. > All three are suffering from some type of > rot or wilt. The bottom leaves die and turn > brown and then the rest of the plant seems > to topple. Help! I don't want to lose these > plants. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Oct 2 22:16:49 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 18:16:49 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Agave Weevil Message-ID: <44.1424b882.28eb96d1@aol.com> --part1_44.1424b882.28eb96d1_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I suspect that the Agave Weevil has destroyed your agaves. When you remove them you will find a rotted mess. For future agaves an application of an insecticide such as Diazinon applied in May or June will help to prevent the problem. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_44.1424b882.28eb96d1_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I suspect that the Agave Weevil has destroyed your agaves. When you remove them you will find a rotted mess. For future agaves an application of an insecticide such as Diazinon applied in May or June will help to prevent the problem.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_44.1424b882.28eb96d1_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Oct 2 22:16:41 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 18:16:41 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cutworm control Message-ID: <84.1c54a683.28eb96c9@aol.com> --part1_84.1c54a683.28eb96c9_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit There are several insecticides that will control cutworms such as Sevin, Diaziinon, Spectricide or Dursban. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_84.1c54a683.28eb96c9_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit There are several insecticides that will control cutworms such as Sevin, Diaziinon, Spectricide or Dursban.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_84.1c54a683.28eb96c9_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Oct 2 22:16:40 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 18:16:40 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Orange tree wilting Message-ID: <10c.65ac727.28eb96c8@aol.com> --part1_10c.65ac727.28eb96c8_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I suspect that your orange tree is not getting enough water, however since your climatic conditions are very different from ours in the low desert in Arizona I suggest that you contact your local Cooperative Extension, you will find them listed under county government in your phone book and their service is free as is ours. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_10c.65ac727.28eb96c8_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I suspect that your orange tree is not getting enough water, however since your climatic conditions are very different from ours in the low desert in Arizona I suggest that you contact your local Cooperative Extension, you will find them listed under county government in your phone book and their service is free as is ours.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_10c.65ac727.28eb96c8_boundary-- From Phi722@aol.com Tue Oct 2 22:34:49 2001 From: Phi722@aol.com (Phi722@aol.com) Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 15:34:49 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110022234.f92MYnP09905@Ag.arizona.edu> What type of grass should I overseed with for this winter and when should I overseed? How should I prepare the ground for the overseed? Thank you! From sjbass@qwest.net Tue Oct 2 23:27:24 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 16:27:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Overseeding for winter References: <200110022234.f92MYnP09905@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BBA4D5C.313AB204@qwest.net> You can view fellow Master Gardener, Rod McKusick's response to a similar question by going to: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-October/005473.html Generally, perennial rye grass is used. The link in the response above takes you to the Master Gardener manual where options are discussed. Sue Bass Master Gardener Phi722@aol.com wrote: > What type of grass should I overseed with for this winter and when should I overseed? > > How should I prepare the ground for the overseed? > > Thank you! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From gillv@home.com Wed Oct 3 00:04:56 2001 From: gillv@home.com (gillv@home.com) Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 17:04:56 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110030004.f9304uP15716@Ag.arizona.edu> I have noticed my Bermuda(santa ana)grass, under the ficus tree, has been dying and leaving a big bald spot extending out. That area is frequented by rabbits and used to be full of rabbit feces till the grass was there. I have noticed in other yards too that grass around rabbit feces is dying. Do rabbits transmit a disease or something else is affecting the grass. Thank You. From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Wed Oct 3 03:12:26 2001 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 20:12:26 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Blocking out Bermuda grass In-Reply-To: <000c01c14a42$65b767e0$c982b5d1@pavilion> Message-ID: <20011003031226.4535.qmail@web14912.mail.yahoo.com> You can get roof flashing at home depot in the roofing dept. I'll guess it cost about $12-$15 for a roll about 18" by 20 feet. --- Starlene Stewart wrote: > Hi Jack, thanks, hey can you give me an idea of who > sells > aluminum roof flashing and do have any idea of how > much it costs? > > Thanks, > Starlene > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "jack blake" > To: "Starlene Stewart" > Cc: > Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2001 9:06 PM > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Blocking out Bermuda > grass > > > > I reccomend aluminum roof flashing (18") tall. > Bury it > > straight down about 17" and place your edging > against > > the inch or so sticking out of the ground. It > works > > well and lasts years.For nutsedge, the best thing > I've > > used is "Manage". It can take more than one > > application but it works and only on nutgrass. > Very > > expensive!! > > > > > > > > --- Starlene Stewart wrote: > > > Hi, > > > > > > Someone asked recently about what to do about > > > getting rid of > > > Bermuda to plant an herb garden. > > > > > > What I've always done is dig out the area > completely > > > and gone > > > through shovelful by shovelful taking out every > > > little piece of > > > Bermuda I could find. I understand if only one > > > rhizome is left > > > then you will have a problem. This is a very > > > time-consuming > > > task. > > > > > > A friend of mine built a screen using wood and > > > hardware cloth. > > > He used 2x4s and cut them to make a frame that > is 2 > > > feet square. > > > He attached one-quarter inch hardware cloth to > that > > > and he puts > > > in several shovelfuls of dirt and then shakes > the > > > strainer back > > > and forth over a wheelbarrow. He tosses out the > > > grass, roots and > > > large rocks. This process appears to be > effortless > > > for him, but > > > I've tried it and I just don't have the strength > or > > > stamina that > > > he does. > > > > > > What I've done over the years to block the > bermuda > > > from creeping > > > into the garden is to line the sides with 2x4's. > > > But these > > > aren't very effective as the Bermuda tends to > creep > > > over or grow > > > under. > > > > > > I have Bermuda grass in my front yard, and > didn't > > > want my rose > > > bush choked out by the grass. I found some > aluminum > > > flashing > > > that someone had thrown away, and had it trimmed > and > > > fixed to > > > make a round circle. It is about 8 inches wide, > and > > > I have > > > buried it under the ground about 4 inches which > left > > > 4 inches on > > > top. This works very very well at keeping the > > > Bermuda out of the > > > rose bush bed. > > > > > > What are some other suggestions for keeping the > > > Bermuda at bay? > > > I keep thinking there must be some very > effective, > > > inexpensive > > > thing to use that I am overlooking. I have seen > > > that Home Depot > > > has some type of bordering rolled up, about 4 > inches > > > in width, > > > but that wouldn't work well enough. I find that > I > > > need a border > > > that is at least 8 inches wide, so that I can > bury a > > > good portion > > > underground and then the Bermuda can't creep > over > > > the top. > > > > > > I'm also fighting nutgrass, what a nightmare! > > > > > > I guess I'm thinking of going to a sheet metal > type > > > place and see > > > if I can buy a roll of aluminum flashing that I > > > could bury around > > > the perimeter of my garden after I've eradicated > the > > > Bermuda > > > within. > > > > > > As a last resort, I'm thinking of buying a > gallon of > > > Round-up, > > > but I don't like using pesticides, although it > does > > > seem much > > > simpler than sifting through all that dirt, and > then > > > using the > > > Round-up to keep the Bermuda out of the garden > as > > > well. > > > > > > Any suggestions are welcomed! Thank in advance. > > > > > > Starlene > > > Phoenix, AZ > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > > __________________________________________________ > > Do You Yahoo!? > > Listen to your Yahoo! Mail messages from any > phone. > > http://phone.yahoo.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Listen to your Yahoo! Mail messages from any phone. http://phone.yahoo.com From sjbass@qwest.net Wed Oct 3 03:47:04 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 20:47:04 -0700 Subject: [Fwd: [Arid_gardener] Overseeding for winter] Message-ID: <3BBA8A37.FB2B99AF@qwest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------3FF3461898EE8FC05D4089BE Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Any comments? --------------3FF3461898EE8FC05D4089BE Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: sjbass@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 74790 invoked by uid 0); 3 Oct 2001 03:28:12 -0000 Received: from mail1.uswest.net (63.226.138.1) by phnxpop2.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 3 Oct 2001 03:28:12 -0000 Received: (qmail 74518 invoked by uid 0); 3 Oct 2001 03:28:11 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO falcon.mail.pas.earthlink.net) (207.217.120.74) by mail1.uswest.net with SMTP; 3 Oct 2001 03:28:11 -0000 Received: from 0f1by (cpe-24-221-130-99.az.sprintbbd.net [24.221.130.99]) by falcon.mail.pas.earthlink.net (8.11.5/8.9.3) with SMTP id f933S8615152 for ; Tue, 2 Oct 2001 20:28:08 -0700 (PDT) Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 20:33:16 -0700 Message-ID: <001201c14bbc$296982c0$6382dd18@phoenix.speedchoice.com> From: "Mark Mittelstaedt" To: "Sue Bass" References: <200110022234.f92MYnP09905@Ag.arizona.edu> <3BBA4D5C.313AB204@qwest.net> Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Overseeding for winter MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 I have found the perennial grass to come in somewhat coarser-bladed / wider leaves, very similar to nut grass. Has anyone else observed the same thing ? ----- Original Message ----- From: Sue Bass To: Cc: Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2001 4:27 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Overseeding for winter > You can view fellow Master Gardener, Rod McKusick's response to a similar question by > going to: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-October/005473.html > Generally, perennial rye grass is used. The link in the response above takes you to the > Master Gardener manual where options are discussed. > Sue Bass > Master Gardener > Phi722@aol.com wrote: > > > What type of grass should I overseed with for this winter and when should I overseed? > > > > How should I prepare the ground for the overseed? > > > > Thank you! > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener --------------3FF3461898EE8FC05D4089BE-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Oct 3 15:23:32 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2001 08:23:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pesticide Changes Message-ID: <3BBB2D73.3C07FDBF@qwest.net> Jack, I know that while we were at the MG University in Tucson we were advised of the loss of diazinon and another pesticide. The topic came up with regard to a recent question about agave collapse. I can't find my notes, nor is my memory too good on the matter, but I recall your knowing what was happening from our recent desert plant training at the DBG. Can you fill us in on what is being taken off the market, when this will occur, if this is just for homeowners or commercial ops as well, and what is being promoted as a suitable substitute? Thanks in advance for your reply. Linda From utopia95@aol.com Wed Oct 3 15:54:24 2001 From: utopia95@aol.com (utopia95@aol.com) Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 08:54:24 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110031554.f93FsOP27873@Ag.arizona.edu> I know that Gardenias need a special type of fertilizer...What kind is it and how often should it be applied...Thanking you in advance, Diane From doryvan@aol.com Wed Oct 3 16:18:04 2001 From: doryvan@aol.com (doryvan@aol.com) Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 09:18:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110031618.f93GI4P03857@Ag.arizona.edu> Exposed citrus tree branches were wrapped with burlap early last summer to protect them from sunburn. Should the burlap be removed from the branches when the daytime temperatures stay below 100 degrees? Is there a place to get information about the subject? From pagamcan@aol.com Wed Oct 3 18:58:44 2001 From: pagamcan@aol.com (pagamcan@aol.com) Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 11:58:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110031858.f93IwiP08865@Ag.arizona.edu> We need some tips and help in growing tomatoes in central Phx. My very italian huband is nearly retired and I guess its a cultural obsession for old italians!!! After readind some guides in the Ariz Republic, we planted 3 varieies in our small back your. Tthink they were "earl girls, champions and the tiny yello pear". My husband hours preparing the soil according to direction. They are in a place where they will only get full sun for about 3 hours. They look good so far, but its only been five day; Whhere do we go from here to produce some good fruit. I think my husband will suffer depression and maybe more if they all die - I believe theres some unwritten law in his culture -Like the most verile men produce prolific! I'm joking of course but there is truth to it! Thanks so much for any guidance you can provide.........Sharon Cannataro 602-230-1638 From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Oct 3 22:52:56 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 18:52:56 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus with wrapped branches Message-ID: <5f.1bb6b3e5.28ecf0c8@aol.com> --part1_5f.1bb6b3e5.28ecf0c8_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If foliage on your citrus tree has grown enough to shade the branches then you can remove the burlap, if not then the burlap should not be removed. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_5f.1bb6b3e5.28ecf0c8_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If foliage on your citrus tree has grown enough to shade the branches then you can remove the burlap, if not then the burlap should not be removed.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_5f.1bb6b3e5.28ecf0c8_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Oct 3 22:52:57 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 18:52:57 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bermuda grass in the shade Message-ID: <161.1dc0f52.28ecf0c9@aol.com> --part1_161.1dc0f52.28ecf0c9_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bermuda grass requires nearly full sun to remain healthy which probably accounts for your bare spot under the tree. The rabbit feces is probably very high in nitrogen which is burning the bermuda. In this case it is strike two and the bermuda is out. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_161.1dc0f52.28ecf0c9_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bermuda grass requires nearly full sun to remain healthy which probably accounts for your bare spot under the tree. The rabbit feces is probably very high in nitrogen which is burning the bermuda. In this case it is strike two and the bermuda is out.

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener

--part1_161.1dc0f52.28ecf0c9_boundary-- From rtk540@worldnet.att.net Thu Oct 4 00:24:20 2001 From: rtk540@worldnet.att.net (rtk540@worldnet.att.net) Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 17:24:20 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110040024.f940OKP28004@Ag.arizona.edu> We have a hybred grass which I believe is Midiron. It was very successful when we put it in as sod, however as the trees above it have matured it has started to die out. Do you have any recomendations on how to rejuvinate the grass or for a replacement? From rtk540@worldnet.att.net Thu Oct 4 00:38:08 2001 From: rtk540@worldnet.att.net (rtk540@worldnet.att.net) Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 17:38:08 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110040038.f940c8P29591@Ag.arizona.edu> We have an olive tree which is supposed to be fruitless. It is not. When it was young we used Monteray Fruit Eliminator and it was satisfactory, however now it no longer seems to work at all. Do you have any suggestions for another product? Also, would this be effective on bottle tree fruit? Thanks Brian From journies@worldnet.att.net Thu Oct 4 02:36:11 2001 From: journies@worldnet.att.net (journies@worldnet.att.net) Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 19:36:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110040236.f942aBP12112@Ag.arizona.edu> Is there a website for desert trees? From stange@dakotacom.net Thu Oct 4 03:36:30 2001 From: stange@dakotacom.net (stange@dakotacom.net) Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 20:36:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110040336.f943aUP21244@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a waxleaf privet and the leaves are turning brown and they have a white stuff on them. How should it be watered and what for fertilizer. From rcdemark@aol.com Thu Oct 4 16:36:30 2001 From: rcdemark@aol.com (rcdemark@aol.com) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 09:36:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110041636.f94GaUP26480@Ag.arizona.edu> Do you have any suggestions for the control of Rabbits eating the garden? Ropel doesn't have any effect on them. From sjbass@qwest.net Thu Oct 4 16:50:28 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 09:50:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rabbit Management References: <200110041636.f94GaUP26480@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BBC9354.4784E4B0@qwest.net> Two suggestions for you: First, the following link will take you to the University of AZ's publication on rabbit management http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/animals/rabbit.htm Next, if you go into our archives you will find many discussions with many different suggestions for dealing with rabbits. To view these discussions, go to: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/ and type in Rabbits. Sue Bass Master Gardener rcdemark@aol.com wrote: > Do you have any suggestions for the control of Rabbits eating the garden? Ropel doesn't have any effect on them. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Oct 4 23:02:03 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 16:02:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Chainfruit Cholla Growth Habit References: <200109252019.f8PKJjP21718@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BBCEA6B.6A0CEBE1@qwest.net> I don't know why the plant does so, but quoting Landscape Plants for Dry Regions: "Small green fruit usually remain on plant, blooming from last year's fruit to form drooping chains of fruit. If broken off, fruit will take root where they fall and start a new plant." As to the why of this, maybe the DBG's plant hotline can be of help [M-F, 10:00 to 11:30 am, 480/941-1225]. Linda Guy, MG fziemann@hotmail.com wrote: > By what process is it possible, for the Chain Fruit Cholla to keep adding on to the top of the previous year's fruit. In most plants, after the fruit ripens, it falls off, but the Chian Fruit Cholla's fruit does not, it stays and the next season another fruit grows on top. How can this happen? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Oct 4 23:11:12 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 16:11:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning Bougainvilleas and Fairy Dusters References: <200109270256.f8R2uqP28065@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BBCEC90.ADACEA4C@qwest.net> Bougainvilleas are first pruned to remove cold-damaged growth after the threat of frost has passed in the spring. They may also require subsequent shaping during the growth season to keep the branches under control. The red or Baja Fairy Duster [Calliandra californica] is usually lightly pruned late spring since more severe pruning can inhibit flowering. This is sometimes necessary, however, if the plant gets leggy. Does not like pruning in hot weather. Pink Fairy Dusters [Calliandra eriophylla] require little pruning, since they are so much more compact and are nicely shaped. If needed, May is again a good time. I've never pruned any of my pinks, whereas my reds have needed the shaping assistance. Linda Guy, MG marymei@attglobal.net wrote: > How do I prune Fairy Dusters and Bouginvea? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Oct 4 23:18:53 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 16:18:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Improving Grape Production References: <200109271755.f8RHtVP14478@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BBCEE5D.D45C9490@qwest.net> Vines require particular pruning and grape clusters should be reduced about 1/3 just after blooming. Fertilization and watering are also factors. Check out our publication on backyard grapes, which can be ordered with the instructions at the top of this link: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm You'll find the publication MC-59 under Fruits & Nuts. MC-90 also contains information on selecting varieties, if that is of interest to you. Linda Guy, MG kkturner@srpnet.com wrote: > My 3 year old Thompson Seedless grapes only produce grapes smaller than peas. What do I need to do to produce a 'bunch of grapes'? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From crsanchez@att.net Thu Oct 4 23:42:18 2001 From: crsanchez@att.net (crsanchez@att.net) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 16:42:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110042342.f94NgIP07360@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a tiff lawn and this creeping weed has spread thought the my lawn, and taken over in some areas. It has small leaves, spreads quickly, and leaves a sticky residue on your fingers when I pull the weed. Either ants are attracted to it or they spread it, but there are ants in conjunction with this weed. What is this weed and how do I get rid of it? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Oct 5 00:57:03 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 20:57:03 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bermuda Grass in the shade Message-ID: <150.2059e4f.28ee5f5f@aol.com> --part1_150.2059e4f.28ee5f5f_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bermuda grass requires nearly full sun in order to stay healthy. Grasses that can be grown in the shade here in the low desert are tall fescue, st augustine and dichondra. However with these grasses you will not be able to over seed with rye for winter grass. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener . --part1_150.2059e4f.28ee5f5f_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bermuda grass requires nearly full sun in order to stay healthy. Grasses that can be grown in the shade here in the low desert are tall fescue, st augustine and dichondra. However with these grasses you will not be able to over seed with rye for winter grass.

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener .

--part1_150.2059e4f.28ee5f5f_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Oct 5 00:57:08 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 20:57:08 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Desert Trees Message-ID: <11b.5621dcf.28ee5f64@aol.com> --part1_11b.5621dcf.28ee5f64_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Try this website for desert trees: http://www.aridzonetrees.com/treesin.htm Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_11b.5621dcf.28ee5f64_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Try this website for desert trees: http://www.aridzonetrees.com/treesin.htm

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_11b.5621dcf.28ee5f64_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Oct 5 00:57:10 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 20:57:10 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Olive fruit eliminator Message-ID: <1e.1c3ff0cf.28ee5f66@aol.com> --part1_1e.1c3ff0cf.28ee5f66_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Olive Stop is one product that is supposed to eliminate the fruit when applied according to directions. There are several others on the market, why not check with your favorite nursery. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_1e.1c3ff0cf.28ee5f66_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Olive Stop is one product that is supposed to eliminate the fruit when applied according to directions. There are several others on the market, why not check with your favorite nursery.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_1e.1c3ff0cf.28ee5f66_boundary-- From gemlenz@aol.com Fri Oct 5 01:14:16 2001 From: gemlenz@aol.com (gemlenz@aol.com) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 18:14:16 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110050114.f951EGP20669@Ag.arizona.edu> Last year we had a bumper crop on our lemon tree. This year there is not much. I didn't change what I was doing. What happened? Also, when is the best time to prune. From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Fri Oct 5 01:41:44 2001 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 18:41:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200110031554.f93FsOP27873@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20011005014144.54648.qmail@web14906.mail.yahoo.com> Gardenias need an acid ic soil. Ours is alkiline so you must lower the PH to make the plant more comfortable. To do this you must add soil sulfur to the soil to lower the PH and use fertilizers that contain sulfur or are for acid loving plants. Read the labels and they tell the story. --- utopia95@aol.com wrote: > I know that Gardenias need a special type of > fertilizer...What kind is it and how often should it > be applied...Thanking you in advance, Diane > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? NEW from Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month. http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1 From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Fri Oct 5 01:47:57 2001 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 18:47:57 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200110031618.f93GI4P03857@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20011005014757.8935.qmail@web14910.mail.yahoo.com> You answered your own question. the porpose for wrapping citrus is to protect the bark from sunburn not temperature. If the trunk is shaded and its 120 degrees, you are protecting the bark from sunburn. --- doryvan@aol.com wrote: > Exposed citrus tree branches were wrapped with > burlap early last summer to protect them from > sunburn. > Should the burlap be removed from the branches when > the daytime temperatures stay below 100 degrees? > Is there a place to get information about the > subject? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? NEW from Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month. http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1 From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Fri Oct 5 01:56:05 2001 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 18:56:05 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200110040024.f940OKP28004@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20011005015605.58828.qmail@web14906.mail.yahoo.com> Your hybred is a type of bermuda. Bermuda will not grow in shade. Here are some choices: 1- raise the skirt of the tree and thin out some of its intenal growth(don't overdo it). 2-convert the area under the tree to a bed of low water use plants.(the water needs should be close to that of the tree) 3-Plant a shade grass like fesque or dicondra. 4- on a more drastic thought, you can cut the tree down. My choice would be # 1 --- rtk540@worldnet.att.net wrote: > We have a hybred grass which I believe is > Midiron. It was very successful when we put > it in as sod, however as the trees above it > have matured it has started to die out. > Do you have any recomendations on how to > rejuvinate the grass or for a replacement? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? NEW from Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month. http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1 From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Fri Oct 5 02:00:22 2001 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 19:00:22 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200110040038.f940c8P29591@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20011005020022.51900.qmail@web14908.mail.yahoo.com> The product you want to use is called FLOREL, I don't recall who makes it but you can get at most nurseries. It should be applied in two applications,the first on thr south side of the tree and then thesecond onthe north side as each side will flower at different times. Follow the directions. --- rtk540@worldnet.att.net wrote: > We have an olive tree which is supposed to > be fruitless. It is not. When it was young > we used Monteray Fruit Eliminator and it > was satisfactory, however now it no longer > seems to work at all. Do you have any > suggestions for another product? Also, > would this be effective on bottle tree fruit? > > Thanks > Brian > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? NEW from Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month. http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1 From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Fri Oct 5 02:06:30 2001 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 19:06:30 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200110042342.f94NgIP07360@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20011005020630.78487.qmail@web14904.mail.yahoo.com> Sounds like spurge. It is a broad leaf weed and any weed killer for lawns should wipe it out.These herbicides kill broad leaf plants so if you get it on the wife's roses, leave town. best applied in the cool temps of the am. I suggest a liquid for faster results. You might want to apply a preemergent to prevent the seeds of the weed growing.Remember, follow the directions --- crsanchez@att.net wrote: > I have a tiff lawn and this creeping weed has spread > thought the my lawn, and taken over in some areas. > It has small leaves, spreads quickly, and leaves a > sticky residue on your fingers when I pull the weed. > Either ants are attracted to it or they spread it, > but there are ants in conjunction with this weed. > What is this weed and how do I get rid of it? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > === message truncated === __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? NEW from Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month. http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1 From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Oct 5 02:17:08 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 02:17:08 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] lawn, prostrate weed Message-ID: I am not a turf expert. Here are some suggestions. The weed you are describing could be spotted spurge -- it is an annual; flat on the ground, stems form a circular mat from a single taproot. It is aggressive and has a milky sap. The best control is to create a healthy and vigorous lawn with proper care. This weed will die out during the winter, but will grow from seed in the spring, so you will want to apply a pre-emergent in early spring. The ants find shelter unter the broad circular mat. Linda Drew MFrom: crsanchez@att.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 16:42:18 -0700 (MST) > >I have a tiff lawn and this creeping weed has spread thought the my lawn, >and taken over in some areas. It has small leaves, spreads quickly, and >leaves a sticky residue on your fingers when I pull the weed. Either ants >are attracted to it or they spread it, but there are ants in conjunction >with this weed. What is this weed and how do I get rid of it? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From hoboen2001@yahoo.com Fri Oct 5 02:24:55 2001 From: hoboen2001@yahoo.com (hoboen2001@yahoo.com) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 19:24:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110050224.f952OtP04345@Ag.arizona.edu> What is the expiration time, shelf life, of vegetable/flower seeds? I have some (a lot) that were packed in 1985. Thanks From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Oct 5 02:27:25 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 02:27:25 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] privet, white on leaves Message-ID: The white stuff on the leaves might be an insect, like scale, or a fungus, like powdery mildew. Take a sample to your nearest Cooperative Extension Office for a positive ID. Read the Master Gardener Manual, chapter on irrigation, for more information about proper watering. http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/irrigation/ You will want to apply a nitrogen fertilizer in the spring. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: stange@dakotacom.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 20:36:30 -0700 (MST) > >I have a waxleaf privet and the leaves are turning brown and they have a >white stuff on them. How should it be watered and what for fertilizer. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listin _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Oct 5 02:30:25 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 02:30:25 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] desert trees Message-ID: There are a number of websites that include information about desert trees. You mighht want to start with http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening What specific information are you interest in ---- selection, care, pictures?? Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: journies@worldnet.att.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 19:36:11 -0700 (MST) > >Is there a website for desert trees? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From sjbass@qwest.net Fri Oct 5 05:15:30 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 22:15:30 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Shelf life of seeds References: <200110050224.f952OtP04345@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BBD41F2.CB7E8E86@qwest.net> >From what I have read, it all depends on the seed and where it has been stored. If they have been stored in a cool, dry place, they might be fine. Why not try planting them? Check out a similar question and responses at Garden Web http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/seed/msg0821131527880.html Many people tell stories of planting some pretty old seeds and having them germinate. Sue Bass Master Gardener hoboen2001@yahoo.com wrote: > What is the expiration time, shelf life, of vegetable/flower seeds? I have some (a lot) that were packed in 1985. Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From ragtop@onr.com Fri Oct 5 10:54:03 2001 From: ragtop@onr.com (ragtop@onr.com) Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 03:54:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110051054.f95As3P01548@Ag.arizona.edu> Where can I get some Candlewood Ocotillo (Fouquieria Splendens)? thanks From phygen@yahoo.com Fri Oct 5 11:52:14 2001 From: phygen@yahoo.com (Figen...) Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 04:52:14 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] info please Message-ID: <20011005115214.20831.qmail@web10801.mail.yahoo.com> --0-1666441175-1002282734=:20562 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Dear Sir, i am an university student in Turkey.I study Plant pathology and my branch is weeds science.i need some info about some subjects but i cant find it in my country because no one has studied about this subject before, here.so i thought the best is to write u and have info from u if it is possible.my subject is; how does the frost effect the weeds in citrus gardens...do weeds lower the frost injury on citrus trees or not?or dont weeds effect the frost injury in citrus gardens.. if u can give me some info about it i will so glad.. thank u very much your sincerelly FiGeN --------------------------------- Do You Yahoo!? NEW from Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month. Yahoo! by Phone. --0-1666441175-1002282734=:20562 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

Dear Sir,

i am an university student in Turkey.I study Plant pathology and my branch is weeds science.i need some info about some subjects but i cant find it in my country because no one has studied about this subject before, here.so i thought the best is to write u and have info from u if it is possible.my subject is; how does the frost effect the weeds in citrus gardens...do weeds lower the frost injury on citrus trees or not?or dont weeds effect the frost injury in citrus gardens..

if u can give me some info about it i will so glad..

thank u very much

your sincerelly

FiGeN

Do You Yahoo!?
NEW from Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month. Yahoo! by Phone. --0-1666441175-1002282734=:20562-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Oct 5 12:43:34 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 12:43:34 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ocotillo Message-ID: If you are in the Tucson area, check Desert Survivors (791-9309). I noticed they had Mexican tree ocotillo when I visited the plant sale last weekend; didn't notice candlewood, but they very well might have it. Also Tucson Botanical Gardens and Tohono Chul Park are holding their plant sales this weekend. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: ragtop@onr.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 03:54:03 -0700 (MST) > >Where can I get some Candlewood Ocotillo (Fouquieria Splendens)? thanks > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Oct 5 14:43:12 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 07:43:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Candlewood Ocotillo References: <200110051054.f95As3P01548@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BBDC6FF.381C4C88@qwest.net> The Desert Botanical Gardens fall plant sale is the weekend of October 20-21. If they don't have some, you could ask the staff about sources. Linda Guy, MG ragtop@onr.com wrote: > Where can I get some Candlewood Ocotillo (Fouquieria Splendens)? thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Oct 5 14:47:38 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 07:47:38 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gardenias References: <200110031554.f93FsOP27873@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BBDC80A.A39F909A@qwest.net> In addition to Jack's excellent response, you might consider sending away for our publication MC-20 on Gardenias and Camellias at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Linda Guy, MG utopia95@aol.com wrote: > I know that Gardenias need a special type of fertilizer...What kind is it and how often should it be applied...Thanking you in advance, Diane > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Oct 5 14:51:24 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 07:51:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Shelf-life of seeds References: <200110050224.f952OtP04345@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BBDC8EC.BCC0FB9C@qwest.net> If they are varieties you cherish or otherwise want to save, you could try them out in a corner of your garden. But I wouldn't bet my entire cool season vegetable production on 16 year old seeds. It also depends on where they have been. Had they stayed the whole time in a 120F shed, I wouldn't suspect a great deal of viability from annuals [natives would be different]. Linda Guy, MG hoboen2001@yahoo.com wrote: > What is the expiration time, shelf life, of vegetable/flower seeds? I have some (a lot) that were packed in 1985. Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Oct 5 14:58:22 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 07:58:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gardenias References: <200110031554.f93FsOP27873@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BBDCA8E.D23D9F1@qwest.net> My fingers were going faster than my mind!!! The pub is MC-29, not MC-20. Linda In addition to Jack's excellent response, you might consider sending away for our publication MC-20 on Gardenias and Camellias at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Linda Guy, MG utopia95@aol.com wrote: > I know that Gardenias need a special type of fertilizer...What kind is it and how often should it be applied...Thanking you in advance, Diane > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Oct 5 15:07:03 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 08:07:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Carolina Jessamine [Gelsemium sempervirens] References: <200109282024.f8SKOlP28591@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BBDCC97.54CB5654@qwest.net> This evergreen vine grows at a moderate clip to roughly 20'. It prefers full sun; a northern exposure may promote less vigorous and more leggy habit. They bloom late winter into spring and it is after the bloom cycle [about March] that pruning is suggested. It can get woody, so a severe pruning to stimulate new growth is recommended every 3-6 years. All parts of the plant are poisonous. Linda Guy, MG RcDeH@aol.com wrote: > Re; Carolina jessamine > > I have Carolina jessamina planted on the north side of the house. They have grown to about five feet and I would like to cut them back. How far and when can they cut back to where the leaves will bud out and the plant will grow? > > Thanks, > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Oct 5 21:42:23 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 17:42:23 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Prunning Citrus Message-ID: <32.1be920e9.28ef833f@aol.com> --part1_32.1be920e9.28ef833f_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It is best to prune as little as possible on citrus trees, prune only to remove dead crossing or damaged branches and wayward growth as well as sucker growth from below the graft union. Each time you remove leaves from a tree you are removing food manufacturing capacity. Citrus trees are best pruned in the spring. It is common for citrus to have alternate good and bad years. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_32.1be920e9.28ef833f_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It is best to prune as little as possible on citrus trees, prune only to remove dead crossing or damaged branches and wayward growth as well as sucker growth from below the graft union. Each time you remove leaves from a tree you are removing food manufacturing capacity. Citrus trees are best pruned in the spring.
It is common for citrus to have alternate good and bad years.

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_32.1be920e9.28ef833f_boundary-- From KasondrAni@aol.com Fri Oct 5 23:44:45 2001 From: KasondrAni@aol.com (KasondrAni@aol.com) Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 16:44:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110052344.f95NijP03388@Ag.arizona.edu> We have gophers in our back yard. When we installed lights, they went away. Adding a porch, so the lights were off for a few days, gopher began digging holes again. Our back yard, possitively has tunnels everywhere. What can I do to get rid of these guys, without torturing them. From fourcverde@aol.com Sat Oct 6 14:51:12 2001 From: fourcverde@aol.com (fourcverde@aol.com) Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2001 07:51:12 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110061451.f96EpCP12184@Ag.arizona.edu> I am a landscaper in South Texas and have had issues with bermuda grass in recently sod fill lawns with st. augustine. The homeowners are very dissappointed in the growth of bermuda in the lawn. As far as I know when bermuda invades st. augustine it might be a losing battle. Because its runners and roots are superior to the above ground runners of st.augustine. Because st. augustine is so sensitive, any chemicals used to rid bermuda will kill the st. augustine. I recently took on a project with such problems. The home owners are willing to listen to any constructive ideas and possible experimental activity. Is their any grass that will drown out bermuda or any other ideas other than tilling the soil to china? I have recommended Zoysia if all fails. From umiller@azdps.com Sat Oct 6 20:34:11 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2001 13:34:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Scale on Star Jasmine???? Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C14E6B.95592880 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I noticed that some of the branches on my star jasmine are drying out and dying, while other parts of the climbing plant are doing just fine. (This is not the common brown leaf drop that happens occasionally nor the occasional drying out of some branches. This seems to dry out entire sections of the vine and then attacks other sections.) On close inspection, I notice that some of the branches have a yellowish/brownish substance on them that can be scratched off and is soft. It looks like growth, but it's not because it's easily removed with a fingernail. The length of it varies from small bits to lengths of a few inches. I think that this may be the culprit, but I'm not sure. Also, I think it could be scale, but I'm not sure of that, either. I've tried finding the answer in my many books on plants, plant problems, plants in arid places, etc. but I haven't been able to find a definitive answer. I found reference to some kind of cherry scale which attacks fruit trees. The description seems to be right, but I have a jasmine vine, not a fruit tree. Also, most of the references to scale so far on this site deal with the cochineal scale on cacti and the scale that has something to do with lawns. Could this be a scale problem? Earlier today I sprayed the plant with the gardening soap mixture. Will that fix the problem? Since these 'things' are soft, I thought that the soap might kills them in magical way the it kills other unwanted critters. I'd prefer not having to use strong chemicals, but I will do so to save this plant. Does anybody have any ideas? Thanks in advance - Ursula Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C14E6B.95592880 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I noticed that some = of the=20 branches on my star jasmine are drying out and dying, while other parts = of the=20 climbing plant are doing just fine. (This is not the common brown = leaf=20 drop that happens occasionally nor the occasional drying out of some=20 branches. This seems to dry out entire sections of the vine and = then=20 attacks other sections.) On close inspection, I notice that some = of the=20 branches have a yellowish/brownish substance on them that can be = scratched off=20 and is soft. It looks like growth, but it's not because it's = easily=20 removed with a fingernail. The length of it varies from small bits = to=20 lengths of a few inches. I think that this may be the culprit, but = I'm not=20 sure. Also, I think it could be scale, but I'm not sure of that,=20 either. I've tried finding the answer in my many books on plants, = plant=20 problems, plants in arid places, etc. but I haven't been able to = find a=20 definitive answer. I found reference to some kind of cherry scale = which=20 attacks fruit trees. The description seems to be right, but I have = a=20 jasmine vine, not a fruit tree. Also, most of the references to = scale so=20 far on this site deal with the cochineal scale on cacti and the scale = that has=20 something to do with lawns.

Could this be a = scale=20 problem? Earlier today I sprayed the plant with the gardening soap = mixture. Will that fix the problem? Since these 'things' are = soft, I=20 thought that the soap might kills them in magical way the it kills other = unwanted critters. I'd prefer not having to use strong chemicals, = but I=20 will do so to save this plant.

Does anybody have = any=20 ideas?

Thanks in advance=20 -

Ursula Miller

------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C14E6B.95592880-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Oct 6 23:03:22 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2001 19:03:22 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bermuda grass in St Augustine turf Message-ID: <163.1f305ef.28f0e7ba@aol.com> --part1_163.1f305ef.28f0e7ba_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Your comment that it is a losing battle to try to eliminate bermuda growing in a St Augustine lawn is right on target. Any herbicides applied that will kill bermuda will also kill st augustine since they both belong to the same class of plants. Your only option is to kill everything and start over. You mentioned zoysia grass, bear in mind that zoysia is not well adapted to the arid southwest unless you live in an area of Texas whose soils are on the acid side. Zoysia is also slow to become established, taking up to two years. Here in the low desert of Arizona bermuda is the grass of choice. Why not check with your county Cooperative Extension, you will find them listed under county government in your phone book and their service is free as is ours. They will be familiar with your local situation. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_163.1f305ef.28f0e7ba_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Your comment that it is a losing battle to try to eliminate bermuda growing in a St Augustine lawn is right on target. Any herbicides applied that will kill bermuda will also kill st augustine since they both belong to the same class of plants. Your only option is to kill everything and start over.
You mentioned zoysia grass, bear in mind that zoysia is not well adapted to the arid southwest unless you live in an area of Texas whose soils are on the acid side. Zoysia is also slow to become established, taking up to two years.
Here in the low desert of Arizona bermuda is the grass of choice.
Why not check with your county Cooperative Extension, you will find them listed under county government in your phone book and their service is free as is ours. They will be familiar with your local situation.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_163.1f305ef.28f0e7ba_boundary-- From bat4@msn.com Sun Oct 7 00:06:42 2001 From: bat4@msn.com (bat4@msn.com) Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2001 17:06:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110070006.f9706gP24968@Ag.arizona.edu> I have two questions: I have a mature ficus benjamina tree outside that is approx. 20-25' tall planted near my home. The daily and year round leaf drop is killing me. Is there anything I could do that might reduce this litter, such as fertilizer? Also I have some hibiscus plants in large planters protected from the hot sun that seem to be having lots of yellow leaves and poor growth. Is this normal? Thanks. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Oct 7 03:27:51 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2001 23:27:51 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ficus benjamina losing leaves Message-ID: <125.5749d32.28f125b7@aol.com> --part1_125.5749d32.28f125b7_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It is normal for most evergreen trees to continually drop leaves as opposed to deciduous trees that lose all their leaves at one time in the fall. Improper irrigation would cause an excessive leaf drop. As for the hibiscus, it should be fertilized monthly during the growing season, this would improve on its growth. Check out this site for info on irrigation: Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_125.5749d32.28f125b7_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It is normal for most evergreen trees to continually drop leaves as opposed to deciduous trees that lose all their leaves at one time in the fall. Improper irrigation would cause an excessive leaf drop.
As for the hibiscus, it should be fertilized monthly during the growing season, this would improve on its growth.
Check out this site for info on irrigation:

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_125.5749d32.28f125b7_boundary-- From jlldyoung1@home.com Mon Oct 8 03:20:43 2001 From: jlldyoung1@home.com (jlldyoung1@home.com) Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2001 20:20:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110080320.f983KhP09509@Ag.arizona.edu> Is there a grass other than Rye that can be used for overseeding here in the Valley? From meringer2@home.com Mon Oct 8 03:29:47 2001 From: meringer2@home.com (meringer2@home.com) Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2001 20:29:47 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110080329.f983TlP10213@Ag.arizona.edu> We have a creeping fig that has been "creeping" along the north wall of our backyard since we moved in 6 years ago. The new neighbors which have the base of the plant(s) in their yard, we think, cut back the plant and has caused the plant on our side of the wall to dry up and die. I'm very upset about this since this lovely foilage covers the ugly cinder block wall. Now we have this tangled mess to clean up. Will this plant bounce back and rejuvenate itself? I'm thinking about planting it along the wall in my yard. Any suggestions for care i.e. watering etc. Thanks! Marie From eicherk@ix.netcom.com Mon Oct 8 04:37:11 2001 From: eicherk@ix.netcom.com (Karen Eicher) Date: Sun, 07 Oct 2001 21:37:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sanata Ana vs. Mid Iron Message-ID: <3BC12D77.222AC70D@ix.netcom.com> I am moving into a house and I have the choice of a Santa Ana sod lawn and a mid iron lawn. The lawn space will be quite small. I am planning to plant at least one Eucalyptus microtheca in the space, also. I guess what I am asking is which of the two lawn choices will have the best balance of economical water use and shade tolerance? Thanks, Karen Eicher From cbuckh1030@aol.com Mon Oct 8 15:39:15 2001 From: cbuckh1030@aol.com (cbuckh1030@aol.com) Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 08:39:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110081539.f98FdFS15606@Ag.arizona.edu> Is now a safe time to take cuttings from prickly pears to transplant them? From Frankm@intsvc.com Mon Oct 8 17:35:44 2001 From: Frankm@intsvc.com (Frank Marquardt) Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 10:35:44 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Prickly Pears Message-ID: <001101c1501f$bd529a00$377d8e3f@oemcomputer> Re: Is now a safe time to take cuttings from prickly pears to transplant them? ******************** If at all possible, you should wait till the spring after our night time temperature hold steady above 50 *F. Giving the new plants a full growing season to establish themselves in their new location. Frank From mymysty@aol.com Mon Oct 8 19:29:19 2001 From: mymysty@aol.com (mymysty@aol.com) Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 12:29:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110081929.f98JTJS03403@Ag.arizona.edu> how and when do i prune an orange tree? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Oct 8 22:31:45 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 18:31:45 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus pruning Message-ID: --part1_fd.d43ec6e.28f38351_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It is best to prune as little as possible on citrus trees, prune only to remove dead crossing or damaged branches and wayward growth as well as sucker growth from below the graft union. Each time you remove leaves from a tree you are removing food manufacturing capacity. Citrus trees are best pruned in the spring. It is common for citrus to have alternate good and bad years. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_fd.d43ec6e.28f38351_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
It is best to prune as little as possible on citrus trees, prune only to remove dead crossing or damaged branches and wayward growth as well as sucker growth from below the graft union. Each time you remove leaves from a tree you are removing food manufacturing capacity. Citrus trees are best pruned in the spring.
It is common for citrus to have alternate good and bad years.

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_fd.d43ec6e.28f38351_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Oct 8 22:31:46 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 18:31:46 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sanata Ana vs. Mid Iron Message-ID: <88.d779d6b.28f38352@aol.com> --part1_88.d779d6b.28f38352_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Karen, Neither Santa Ana or Mid Iron are considered shade tolerant. For a shade tolerant grass you should consider tall fescue, St Augustine or zoysia grass. Tall fescue will remain green through the year here in the low desert but the others will not. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_88.d779d6b.28f38352_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Karen,

Neither Santa Ana or Mid Iron are considered shade tolerant. For a shade tolerant grass you should consider tall fescue, St Augustine or zoysia grass. Tall fescue will remain green through the year here in the low desert but the others will not.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_88.d779d6b.28f38352_boundary-- From lafnepf@aol.com Tue Oct 9 05:37:35 2001 From: lafnepf@aol.com (lafnepf@aol.com) Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 22:37:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110090537.f995bZS16535@Ag.arizona.edu> Re: 10 yr old tangerine tree The bark is splitting from the ground to the graft, and also beginning to rot at the ground line. What can we do to save the tree? What could be the problem? Any info would be appreciated. Thank you! PS Leaves & fruit on the tree are still healthy looking. HELP! L.A. From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Oct 9 14:21:37 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 09 Oct 2001 07:21:37 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gophers References: <200110052344.f95NijP03388@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BC307F1.C2640CC1@qwest.net> Here is a section from our urban integrated pest management website on gophers: http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/rodents/pocketgophers.html You might also do a search in the archives of questions and answers [same place where you posed this question], to see what others have done in the past. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/question.htm Linda Guy, MG KasondrAni@aol.com wrote: > We have gophers in our back yard. When we installed lights, they went away. Adding a porch, so the lights were off for a few days, gopher began digging holes again. Our back yard, possitively has tunnels everywhere. What can I do to get rid of these guys, without torturing them. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Oct 9 14:28:34 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 09 Oct 2001 07:28:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plant Propagation References: <200109290309.f8T399P25542@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BC30992.F4A62AC6@qwest.net> General instructions on plant propagation are in the Master Gardener Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/propagation/index.html http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/cacti/index.html We also have a few pubs on cactus/succulents at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Linda Guy, MG cbuckh1030@aol.com wrote: > How can I start an Ocotillo from a cane or cutting? Also, how can I start oleanders from cuttings? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Oct 9 14:32:03 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 09 Oct 2001 07:32:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Starling Problem References: <200109300434.f8U4YAP14600@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BC30A63.9E0CAB4@qwest.net> It doesn't appear that you received a reply from one of us. I don't have a solution, but would suggest that you contact AZ Game and Fish to see if they've any suggestions for you. Other references for wildlife management are at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/library/ref-wld.htm What about a simple barrier method, like putting some mesh/screening material across the holes? Linda Guy, MG HRB85373@aol.com wrote: > Starlings are taking over the woodpecker holes in our saguaros. Any ideas how to get rid of them? (in a town, so can't shoot them!) > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Oct 9 14:40:58 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 09 Oct 2001 07:40:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tomatoes in Cool Season References: <200110031858.f93IwiP08865@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BC30C7A.AC0292C@qwest.net> Here are some recently written tips from fellow Master Gardener Olin Miller about growing cool season tomatoes. In the low desert of Phoenix, they are a warm season crop. For more tips on tomatoes see our publication MC 22 which can be ordered at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Vegetable "Although you may get some tomato blossoms during the winter months, tomatoes grown outdoors will not set fruit reliably from about mid November through January when the weather cools and the days are short. If you have green tomatoes in November, the fruit will often remain green during the winter months and not begin to ripen until late January. Short season cherry tomatoes or small, short season, bush varieties like Pixie or Patio transplanted about January 1 so that the plants will be in bloom by early February might begin to ripen by the end of March. Sow seeds indoors about Thanksgiving Day - it is often not possible to purchase suitable transplants on January 1. It may also be necessary to protect the plants from occasional light frost." Good luck to you and your husband! Linda Guy, MG pagamcan@aol.com wrote: > We need some tips and help in growing tomatoes in central Phx. My very italian huband is nearly retired and I guess its a cultural obsession for old italians!!! > > After readind some guides in the Ariz Republic, we planted 3 varieies in our small back your. Tthink they were "earl girls, champions and the tiny yello pear". My husband hours preparing the soil according to direction. They are in a place where they will only get full sun for about 3 hours. > > They look good so far, but its only been five day; Whhere do we go from here to produce some good fruit. I think my husband will suffer depression and maybe more if they all die - I believe theres some unwritten law in his culture -Like the most verile men produce prolific! I'm joking of course but there is truth to it! > > Thanks so much for any guidance you can provide.........Sharon Cannataro 602-230-1638 > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Oct 9 14:43:33 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 09 Oct 2001 07:43:33 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cool Season Turf Options References: <200110080320.f983KhP09509@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BC30D15.E68CD2E3@qwest.net> Check out the relevant section of our online Master Gardener manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/lawns/cold.html Linda Guy, MG jlldyoung1@home.com wrote: > Is there a grass other than Rye that can be used for overseeding here in the Valley? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From jrmcd64@cs.com Tue Oct 9 16:10:30 2001 From: jrmcd64@cs.com (jrmcd64@cs.com) Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2001 09:10:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110091610.f99GAUS21072@Ag.arizona.edu> In my vegtable garden i have alot of bermuda grass. can i spray to kill the grass and still grow vegetables? thank you From goodingpn@cs.com Tue Oct 9 18:49:03 2001 From: goodingpn@cs.com (goodingpn@cs.com) Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2001 11:49:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110091849.f99In3I26745@Ag.arizona.edu> does anyone have familiarity with tamarack trees? i think i am growing one in my yard.i would appreciate any information i can get. From valpogrl@aol.com Wed Oct 10 00:46:27 2001 From: valpogrl@aol.com (valpogrl@aol.com) Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2001 17:46:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110100046.f9A0kRI09375@Ag.arizona.edu> Hi, My husband bought me quite a few seed packets at a close out sale. I suspect that some of them are not appropriate to our climate, however I'm willing to give it a try. I need advice on proper times to start these seeds. Does anyone know of a website that lists proper planting (seed starting)times for flowers in the southwest (phoenix)? Times for both inside and outside seed starting would be nice but any advice would be appreciated. The seeds that I'm not sure of are: aster, delphinium, balsam flower, coneflower,shasta daisy, candytuft, salvia, and catchfly. Thank you, Cindy From RkBetu@aol.com Wed Oct 10 00:54:41 2001 From: RkBetu@aol.com (RkBetu@aol.com) Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2001 20:54:41 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gophers Message-ID: <120.54c9dd8.28f4f651@aol.com> I live in the middle of a gopher metropolis. For many years, I had cats and fed many stray cats - never had gophers then. Something changed and most of the stray cats disappeared. After my last cat died, I didn't get another for several years. The gophers found a perpetual picnic. I didn't go to war until they had killed 3 young fruit trees and made gardening impossible. It's a continuous battle, but I am ahead. I've found little difference in using poison, flares, or traps. One just has to keep at it. You have to dig down to find a main tunnel and put the poison/or trap there. If you use poison, do make sure you get the poison pellets deep so other animals, birds, don't eat it. Gopher flares work if you find an open hole, but be ready to cover it COMPLETELY and fast! That stuff really stinks. In addition, the last few trees and small garden beds that I've put in, have been in holes lined with chicken wire. The problem has diminished, but every couple of months I find new holes and have to treat all over again. I think I'm going to get a couple more cats.... Rocki in Az (not a master gardener) From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Wed Oct 10 03:35:57 2001 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2001 20:35:57 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200110081539.f98FdFS15606@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20011010033557.75493.qmail@web14904.mail.yahoo.com> In a word, yes.Let the wound dry a little while first. --- cbuckh1030@aol.com wrote: > Is now a safe time to take cuttings from prickly > pears to transplant them? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals. http://personals.yahoo.com From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Oct 10 03:34:10 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2001 20:34:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gophers References: <120.54c9dd8.28f4f651@aol.com> Message-ID: <002101c1513e$8a052620$0550530c@j0r9501> In addition to all of the recommended pocket gopher management and control suggestions, here is a new one (new to me anyway) that looks promising and that I plan to try. http://ag.arizona.edu/yavapai/anr/hort/byg/archive/pocketgopher2000.html Don't know if you would consider gassing to be humane but, in my experience, the gophers are so destructive that I would try just about anything that works. Also note the caveats with respect to: 1) does the smoke or residue left in the burrow harm plant roots and 3) will this device have detrimental effects on non-target organisms Olin KasondrAni@aol.com wrote: > We have gophers in our back yard. When we installed lights, they went away. Adding a porch, so the lights were off for a few days, gopher began digging holes again. Our back yard, possitively has tunnels everywhere. What can I do to get rid of these guys, without torturing them. > From onlyu56@home.com Wed Oct 10 03:55:49 2001 From: onlyu56@home.com (onlyu56@home.com) Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2001 20:55:49 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110100355.f9A3tnI03416@Ag.arizona.edu> I planted a Mexican lime tree a couple of years ago. Last year it had so many limes we couldn't use them all. This year, we don't have a single lime. The leaves look healthy, but no fruit. Can you help me to understand why we have no fruit this year? Thanks. From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Oct 10 04:57:50 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2001 21:57:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tamarack References: <200110091849.f99In3I26745@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <004801c15148$b9377880$f051530c@j0r9501> It isn't possible to tell your location from your post. If you are in a cold climate or mountain climate, the Tamarack tree, or Western Larch, is probably adapted because it is native to our Western mountains.. But if you are in the low desert you might be referring to Tamarix chinesis (or salt cedar) which is sometimes erroneously called tamarack and which I would not want in my landscape. It can grow just about anywhere because it has very deep, aggressive roots and displaces other more desirable desert plants by sucking up all the available moisture. There is currently a project in the at the Hassayampa Nature Preserve near Wickenburg to eradicate it from the river banks because it has displaced much of the native vegetation but it looks like a pretty ambitious project. You can see it planted as windbreak along Interstate 10 in California just West of Indio where the sand storms used to strip the paint from cars and ruin windshields and it seems to be effective there as a windbreak. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > does anyone have familiarity with tamarack trees? i think i am growing one in my yard.i would appreciate any information i can get. From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Oct 10 05:00:20 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2001 22:00:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Flower Seeds References: <200110100046.f9A0kRI09375@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <004901c15148$bab1e380$f051530c@j0r9501> Refer to the Low Desert Flower Planting Guide at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1100table.pdf All of your flowers are listed there except for coneflower and catchfly (probably Silene ameria). But purple coneflower is grown as an herb and is usually sown here (Phoenix area) in October or sometimes September if it isn't as hot as last month. I find coneflower difficult to grow. My references indicate S. ameria is hardy in USDA Zones 6-10 so I think it would be worth trying by sowing in October even though it isn't listed. Seeds at cut rate prices are often leftovers from previous years - the date should be stamped on the packet. If they are old seeds, you may want to sow a little thicker than indicated because germination is often a problem with old seeds. Olin ----- Original Message -----From: >.... Does anyone know of a website that lists proper planting (seed starting)times for flowers in the southwest (phoenix)? Times for both inside and outside seed starting would be nice but any advice would be appreciated. > The seeds that I'm not sure of are: > aster, delphinium, balsam flower, coneflower,Shasta daisy, candytuft, salvia, and catchfly. From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Oct 10 14:04:16 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 07:04:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gophers References: <120.54c9dd8.28f4f651@aol.com> <002101c1513e$8a052620$0550530c@j0r9501> Message-ID: <3BC45560.70D57E13@qwest.net> In addition to our other replies, I remember that sound/sonic devices are on the market, although I've never known anyone who has used them to pass along any anecdotal input. I just happened to see a packet of them on sale at Costco last night. Many of the organic farm supply houses sell devices like this too. Linda Guy, MG olin wrote: > In addition to all of the recommended pocket gopher management and control > suggestions, here is a new one (new to me anyway) that looks promising and > that I plan to try. > > http://ag.arizona.edu/yavapai/anr/hort/byg/archive/pocketgopher2000.html > > Don't know if you would consider gassing to be humane but, in my experience, > the gophers are so destructive that I would try just about anything that > works. Also note the caveats with respect to: > > 1) does the smoke or residue left in the burrow harm plant roots and > 3) will this device have detrimental effects on non-target organisms > > Olin > > KasondrAni@aol.com wrote: > > We have gophers in our back yard. When we installed lights, they went > away. Adding a porch, so the lights were off for a few days, gopher began > digging holes again. Our back yard, possitively has tunnels everywhere. > What can I do to get rid of these guys, without torturing them. > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Oct 10 14:13:40 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 07:13:40 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200110022023.f92KNoP07827@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BC45794.BEC3A6B9@qwest.net> Soil labs are listed at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/soiltest.htm For an in-depth discussion of recommended turf cultural practices, see the lawns chapter of the Master Gardener Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html We have several publications that might be of interest with respect to the ground cover plantings. AZ1110 in the Ornamentals section is specific to ground covers, but the flowers and bedding plants guide in the Flowers segment may also be worth reading. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Linda Guy, MG fjsandjoyce@retired.com wrote: > Need help in two areas as follows: > 1) Looking for low growing flowering ground > cover in 18" wide planter in front of block wall > in which we have mini bottlebrush plants. Planter > has "umbrella" type sprinklers which are adjustable > up to 10 gallon of water per hour and come on when > the lawn sprinklers come on. How much water should > the mini bottlebrushes and recommened ground cover > get vs the lawn? Should the shrub heads be changed > to soaker type and if so what size? Would like to > put in a couple of sage bushes for desert turtles > to eat but how do they hold up to watering? Would > like everything to be watered at same time and at > same rate as lawn if possible. > 2) Lawn soil is beginning to crack and some areas the > grass will not grow. Birds are pecking at soil and > putting holes in ground. Have tried bent grass, > tall red fescue, rye, dicondra, bluegrass and same result- > will grow for a while then patchs die off. Watering > every other day for about 1/2 hour to a full hour > depending of temperature. Have been fertilizing twice > a year - same result. Have 2 large shade trees so > need grass that will grow in shade and full sun. > Is it possible that the soil is worn out? Is there > any place to send soil samples to get soil tested? > Thank You - Frank Steinmetz > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Oct 10 14:20:06 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 07:20:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lime production References: <200110100355.f9A3tnI03416@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BC45916.B5FA6ED6@qwest.net> A few citrus are alternate-bearing [tree alternates between heavy and light years of fruit production], but I've not heard this attributed to limes. It is more likely to be a matter of winter chill, as limes are very cold sensitive and need to be established in a warm microclimate in the home garden and protected from frost. Limes are not grown commercially in the Salt River valley for this reason. As I recall, last winter was cooler than it has been for a spell. Check out AZ 1001 for a discussion of citrus at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Linda Guy, MG onlyu56@home.com wrote: > I planted a Mexican lime tree a couple of years ago. Last year it had so many limes we couldn't use them all. > > This year, we don't have a single lime. > > The leaves look healthy, but no fruit. > > Can you help me to understand why we have no fruit this year? > > Thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lpo937@worldnet.att.net Wed Oct 10 16:21:04 2001 From: lpo937@worldnet.att.net (lpo937@worldnet.att.net) Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 09:21:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110101621.f9AGL3I20177@Ag.arizona.edu> Hi I have a problem with yellow leaves on my Lemon and Grapefruit trees. Can you tell me what I am doing wrong? I will make sure I record and file your answer because I imagine you get this question almost every year. Thank you Larry O From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Oct 10 19:01:01 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 12:01:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fw: Tamarack Message-ID: <001201c151be$2d4f6aa0$bb53530c@j0r9501> ----- Original Message ----- From: Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2001 9:49 AM Subject: Re: Tamarack > thanks very much. i am in the low desert and could not find it in my > information because as you point out i was given the wrong name. > From rodgerrung@aol.com Wed Oct 10 19:44:33 2001 From: rodgerrung@aol.com (rodgerrung@aol.com) Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 12:44:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110101944.f9AJiXI02566@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a Lemon bush, it has grown to over 10 ft high, it has been in ground for 3yrs and I have about 6 lemons on it and are set on lower part of bush. I am hoping for more lemons to set next year but I think it is getting to high, do you recommend cutting to lower hieght? if so what are your recommendations. Thanks, Rodger Gilbert,Az From gwright@Ag.arizona.edu Wed Oct 10 20:48:42 2001 From: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu (Glenn C. Wright) Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 13:48:42 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Weeds and Citrus Frost Control In-Reply-To: <3BBDC98F.4CBA2971@qwest.net> Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20011010132948.009e0180@127.0.0.1> At 07:54 AM 10/05/2001 -0700, you wrote: >Dear Sir, > >i am an university student in Turkey.I study Plant pathology and my branch >is weeds science.i need some info about some subjects but i cant find it >in my country because no one has studied about this subject before, >here.so i thought the best is to write u and have info from u if it is >possible.my subject is; how does the frost effect the weeds in citrus >gardens...do weeds lower the frost injury on citrus trees or not?or dont >weeds effect the frost injury in citrus gardens.. > >if u can give me some info about it i will so glad.. > >thank u very much > >your sincerelly > > Dear Mr. Figen: We consider that weeds generally increase the chance of frost injury in citrus. This is because weedy ground in the orchards is cooler than if the ground were free of weeds. Weed-free ground is warmer, so the heat from the soil will help to raise the air temperature, so the trees will be less affected by frost. Weeds are affected by the frost directly if the temperatures are cold enough. Temperatures less than -2 degrees for four to six hours or more will damage weeds. More damage will occur if the temperatures are colder, or if the duration is longer. I suggest that you contact the Subtropical Fruit Research Station at the University of Cucurova for more information related to Turkish citrus production. In particular, speak to Dr. �nder Tuzcu. Best regards, GCW From kato.haws@asu.edu Wed Oct 10 22:10:35 2001 From: kato.haws@asu.edu (kato.haws@asu.edu) Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 15:10:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110102210.f9AMAZI00230@Ag.arizona.edu> A couple of my citrus trees appear to be seriously diseased. The bark is splitting quite badly. What treatment should I use to try to save the trees? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Oct 11 00:35:27 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 20:35:27 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus with yellow leaves Message-ID: --part1_f8.10d9348e.28f6434f_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Larry, Yellow leaves can be caused by either over or under watering as well as inadequate fertilization. Once in a great while disease can also cause yellow leaves, however more than likely improper irrigation is the cause of the yellow leaves. Check out these sites for info on proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_f8.10d9348e.28f6434f_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Larry,

Yellow leaves can be caused by either over or under watering as well as inadequate fertilization. Once in a great while disease can also cause yellow leaves, however more than likely improper irrigation is the cause of the yellow leaves. Check out these sites for info on proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener

--part1_f8.10d9348e.28f6434f_boundary-- From jackee@dealejandro.com Thu Oct 11 00:47:14 2001 From: jackee@dealejandro.com (Jackee De Alejandro) Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 17:47:14 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C151B3.990015C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Please sign me to your mailing list Jackee www.dealejandro.com ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C151B3.990015C0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

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------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C151B3.990015C0-- From cesherm@webtv.net Thu Oct 11 01:12:22 2001 From: cesherm@webtv.net (cesherm@webtv.net) Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 18:12:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110110112.f9B1CMI29901@Ag.arizona.edu> Most people seem to have this problem but no one knows. What can you plant on a section of patio that gets full sun in summer and full shade in winter--preferably a privacy shrub type plant (but not oleander). Thanks much for any advice. From oriley@wescap.com Thu Oct 11 04:45:47 2001 From: oriley@wescap.com (oriley@wescap.com) Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 21:45:47 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110110445.f9B4jkI27355@Ag.arizona.edu> My Mexican Bird of Paradise is yellowing drastically and losing its leaves. I never watered it very much in the past but have recently since the leaves have yellowed. I don't know if too much water or not enough. Can you help? From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Oct 11 15:11:51 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 08:11:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lemon production Message-ID: <3BC5B6B7.735B575E@qwest.net> Our citrus specialist, Dr. Glenn Wright, provided the following in response to your question of 10-4. "Sometimes, when you have a large crop one year, in particular if it is allowed to remain on the tree into the early Spring, you will have reduced blossoming and fruit set the following year. This may be the case. Otherwise, I'd suggest insufficient watering, fertilizing, or frost damage. There are no varieties of lemons that are known to be particularly alternate bearing independent of the reasons that I've mentioned above." For a refresher on citrus cultural practices, take a look at our list of publications on the topic at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Linda Guy, MG From BEVMAX13@AOL.COM Thu Oct 11 16:27:53 2001 From: BEVMAX13@AOL.COM (BEVMAX13@AOL.COM) Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 09:27:53 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110111627.f9BGRqI08065@Ag.arizona.edu> MY DWARF GRAPEFRUIT TREE OF 8-10 YEARS OLD IS DROOPING. THE LEAVES ARE CURLING AND THE FRUIT IS TURNING SOFT. IT IS A PINK GRAPEFRUIT TREE. TOO MUCH WATER OR NOT ENOUGH? HELP!!! WHAT IS THE PROBLEM. LEAVES HAVE NOT TURNED YELLOW AS YET. From ekhamil@qwest.com Thu Oct 11 17:14:30 2001 From: ekhamil@qwest.com (ekhamil@qwest.com) Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 10:14:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110111714.f9BHEUI17988@Ag.arizona.edu> I will be visiting Phoenix in early November to help friends landscape their Koi Pond. I am looking for resources to help me with plant material for the pond and surrounding areas. Any ideas? Thanks. From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu Oct 11 17:39:22 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 10:39:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: planting a honet locust References: Message-ID: <001901c1527b$d07a1000$0e57530c@j0r9501> Honey locust is a pretty large tree, grows to about 50 feet tall with a 30 foot canopy. It has an extensive shallow root system. We sometimes find lateral roots 10 inches underground in the lawn and vegetable garden area over 50 feet from the trunk - the roots go looking for moisture. The large pods are a litter problem in September. It is a deciduous tree which is already beginning to lose its leaves. Our tree is planted in the backyard southwest of the house and it works pretty well for us but we have a one-acre lot with a 150 foot wide yard so we have lots of space. For a small space, I would look for a smaller tree with less aggressive oots. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: , To: Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2001 8:53 AM > I'm planning to plant a honey locust tree in my front yard in the spring. My > question for you is , my yard is only 12 feet by 12 feet is this tree a good > idea to plant or should I just forget it? ( there are few trees growing on > the street I live on and I face west). From jkandell@twistedclicks.com Thu Oct 11 19:01:02 2001 From: jkandell@twistedclicks.com (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 12:01:02 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] anthill refuse added to soil? Message-ID: <001b01c1528a$8b0660a0$16ab3604@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01C1524C.65D90C80 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I was reading a UN pamphlet on African farming and they recommended = adding the refuse from anthills to your vegetable garden to help enrich = your soil. Anyone heard of this? Do you think it's for organic matter, = or for the nutrients the ants bring up from the lower layers? j ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01C1524C.65D90C80 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I was reading a UN pamphlet on African = farming and=20 they recommended adding the refuse from anthills to your vegetable = garden to=20 help enrich your soil. Anyone heard of this? Do you think = it's for=20 organic matter, or for the nutrients the ants bring up from the lower=20 layers?

------=_NextPart_000_0010_01C1524C.65D90C80-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Oct 11 22:29:32 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 18:29:32 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Red Bird of Paradise Message-ID: <6b.1bee2969.28f7774c@aol.com> --part1_6b.1bee2969.28f7774c_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The Red Bird of Paradise can get by with very little water, however it has been a hot and dry summer and the yellow leaves are no doubt caused by lack of water. Since you have watered it, if the new growth is green the plant should be ok. The Red Bird has red flowers and the Mexican Bird has yellow flowers, the advice would be the same for either one. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_6b.1bee2969.28f7774c_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The Red Bird of Paradise can get by with very little water, however it has been a hot and dry summer and the yellow leaves are no doubt caused by lack of water. Since you have watered it, if the new growth is green the plant should be ok. The Red Bird has red flowers and the Mexican Bird has yellow flowers, the advice would be the same for either one.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_6b.1bee2969.28f7774c_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Oct 11 22:29:37 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 18:29:37 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus with bark cracks Message-ID: --part1_b9.1502fdfa.28f77751_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Rio Grande Gummosis attacks grapefruit trees that are older than 15 years, unfortunately there is no treatment availablle, trees may look unhealthy but seldom die. Bark separation and gumming occurs on the upper trunk and branches. If the cracks are on the west side of the tree and the trunk is exposed to the sun, the problem is probably sunburn. No treatment except to paint the trunk or wrap it with a covering to prevent further sunburning. If the tree has cracks on the lower trunk it may have Foot Rot Gummosis which is caused by a fungi which attacks the lower trunk of the tree and sometimes the roots. Treatment involves the following steps: (Quoted from U. ofA. bulletin Citrus Trees in the Home Garden) 1. Remove soil from around the tree exposing the trunk and upper buttress roots. 2. Cut away diseased bark until clean unaffected bark tissue is exposed. Paint the exposed cuts with paste made from Bordeaux powder. 3. Insure the trunk remains dry by mounding a ring of soil around the excavated area. Water will fill up to this dyke, watering the plant but keeps the diseased area dry. When the spread of the disease stops, soil can be returned to the exposed roots and trunk. Caution: keep the soil level below the graft union. Maintain the trunk in a dry envirnment by keeping the inner dyke for the life of the tree. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_b9.1502fdfa.28f77751_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Rio Grande Gummosis attacks grapefruit trees that are older than 15 years, unfortunately there is no treatment availablle, trees may look unhealthy but seldom die. Bark separation and gumming occurs on the upper trunk and branches.

If the cracks are on the west side of the tree and the trunk is exposed to the sun, the problem is probably sunburn. No treatment except to paint the trunk or wrap it with a covering to prevent further sunburning.

If the tree has cracks on the lower trunk it may have Foot Rot Gummosis which is caused by a fungi which attacks the lower trunk of the tree and sometimes the roots. Treatment involves the following steps: (Quoted from U. ofA. bulletin Citrus Trees in the Home Garden)

1. Remove soil from around the tree exposing the trunk and upper buttress roots.
2. Cut away diseased bark until clean unaffected bark tissue is exposed. Paint the exposed cuts with paste made from Bordeaux powder.
3. Insure the trunk remains dry by mounding a ring of soil around the excavated area. Water will fill up to this dyke, watering the plant but keeps the diseased area dry. When the spread of the disease stops, soil can be returned to the exposed roots and trunk. Caution: keep the soil level below the graft union. Maintain the trunk in a dry envirnment by keeping the inner dyke for the life of the tree.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener

--part1_b9.1502fdfa.28f77751_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Oct 11 22:29:38 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 18:29:38 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit tree looking sickly Message-ID: <41.1222767d.28f77752@aol.com> --part1_41.1222767d.28f77752_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Check out this site for advice on proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_41.1222767d.28f77752_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Check out this site for advice on proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_41.1222767d.28f77752_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Oct 11 22:29:34 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 18:29:34 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Foot rot gummosis on citrus Message-ID: <42.1baab6ee.28f7774e@aol.com> --part1_42.1baab6ee.28f7774e_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sounds like your tangerine tree has Foot Rot Gummosiswhich is caused by a fungi which attacks the lower trunk of the tree and sometimes the roots. Treatment involves the following steps: (Quoted from U. ofA. bulletin Citrus Trees in the Home Garden) 1. Remove soil from around the tree exposing the trunk and upper buttress roots. 2. Cut away diseased bark until clean unaffected bark tissue is exposed. Paint the exposed cuts with paste made from Bordeaux powder. 3. Insure the trunk remains dry by mounding a ring of soil around the excavated area. Water will fill up to this dyke, watering the plant but keeps the diseased area dry. When the spread of the disease stops, soil can be returned to the exposed roots and trunk. Caution: keep the soil level below the graft union. Maintain the trunk in a dry envirnment by keeping the inner dyke for the life of the tree. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_42.1baab6ee.28f7774e_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sounds like your tangerine tree has Foot Rot Gummosiswhich is caused by a fungi which attacks the lower trunk of the tree and sometimes the roots. Treatment involves the following steps: (Quoted from U. ofA. bulletin Citrus Trees in the Home Garden)

1. Remove soil from around the tree exposing the trunk and upper buttress roots.
2. Cut away diseased bark until clean unaffected bark tissue is exposed. Paint the exposed cuts with paste made from Bordeaux powder.
3. Insure the trunk remains dry by mounding a ring of soil around the excavated area. Water will fill up to this dyke, watering the plant but keeps the diseased area dry. When the spread of the disease stops, soil can be returned to the exposed roots and trunk. Caution: keep the soil level below the graft union. Maintain the trunk in a dry envirnment by keeping the inner dyke for the life of the tree.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_42.1baab6ee.28f7774e_boundary-- From Krulich@aol.com Thu Oct 11 23:29:53 2001 From: Krulich@aol.com (Krulich@aol.com) Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 19:29:53 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question - Citrus in sandy soil? Message-ID: <7b.1c7b9050.28f78571@aol.com> Hi, Which citrus tree would do better in very sandy soil - Valencia orange or Ruby Red grapefruit? Thanks, Tom From BEVMAX13@aol.com Fri Oct 12 01:02:43 2001 From: BEVMAX13@aol.com (BEVMAX13@aol.com) Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 21:02:43 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] SICK GRAPEFRUIT TREE Message-ID: <14e.25d6ba9.28f79b33@aol.com> --part1_14e.25d6ba9.28f79b33_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit LOOKING FOR SOME HELP FOR MY PINK GRAPEFRUIT DWARF TREE. JUST STARTED DROOPING. LEAVES ARE CURLING AND GRAPEFRUIT IS SOFT. TREE IS ABOUT TEN YEARS OLD. HAVE ALWAYS HAD GREAT FRUIT EVERY YEAR. HELP!!!. THANKS, BEVMAX13@AOL.COM --part1_14e.25d6ba9.28f79b33_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit LOOKING FOR SOME HELP FOR MY PINK GRAPEFRUIT DWARF TREE. JUST STARTED DROOPING. LEAVES ARE CURLING AND GRAPEFRUIT IS SOFT. TREE IS ABOUT TEN YEARS OLD. HAVE ALWAYS HAD GREAT FRUIT EVERY YEAR. HELP!!!. THANKS, BEVMAX13@AOL.COM --part1_14e.25d6ba9.28f79b33_boundary-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Oct 12 02:04:24 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 19:04:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plants for Pond and Landscape References: <200110111714.f9BHEUI17988@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BC64FA8.6DE36389@qwest.net> For landscaping around the pond, we have a number of publications that you could have your friends read through prior to your arrival. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm They can check the sections on Ornamentals, Desert-Adapted, Flowers, etc. Pay particular attention to the one on poolside landscaping which would minimize pond litter. The Arizona Municipal Water Users Assn is another good resource, having published a number of colorful and informative booklets with all sorts of landscape ideas. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/library/ref-plnt.htm However, November would not be a recommended time to plant in the pond itself. My favorite 'pondsman', Sylvia DeVisme at the Lily Pond [602/273-1805] would happily confirm this to you. Having just visited her this week, she related the 'nightmare' she is experiencing planting what is essentially a shallow lake in Paradise Valley. She only accepted the contract with the family's understanding that they could lose most of the pond material due to the time of year. You will be contemplating doing the same thing, but 6-8 weeks later. Make sure there are ample oxygenating grasses, and you could toss some floating plants that might keep the pond in some biological balance [harder to do if the new pond is like mine and without filtration], but lilies, lotus and other plants will be quite dormant. Linda Guy, MG ekhamil@qwest.com wrote: > I will be visiting Phoenix in early November to help friends landscape their Koi Pond. I am looking for resources to help me with plant material for the pond and surrounding areas. Any ideas? Thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Oct 12 02:12:34 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 19:12:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Creeping Fig References: <200110080329.f983TlP10213@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BC65191.3458F3A3@qwest.net> A substantial cutting back is required from time to time on this vine in order to prevent the development of very woody growth and larger leaf forms. Most people prefer the little juvenile leaves. I wouldn't know whether or not the plant will return, since I don't know if your neighbor pruned it or dug it out. Did you ask? If yours is a northern exposure, it would be a nice place for you to plant the same vine that you enjoy so much. Linda Guy, MG meringer2@home.com wrote: > We have a creeping fig that has been "creeping" along the north wall of our backyard since we moved in 6 years ago. The new neighbors which have the base of the plant(s) in their yard, we think, cut back the plant and has caused the plant on our side of the wall to dry up and die. I'm very upset about this since this lovely foilage covers the ugly cinder block wall. Now we have this tangled mess to clean up. Will this plant bounce back and rejuvenate itself? I'm thinking about planting it along the wall in my yard. Any suggestions for care i.e. watering etc. Thanks! Marie > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Fri Oct 12 03:28:27 2001 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2001 20:28:27 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] mex.bird In-Reply-To: <200110110445.f9B4jkI27355@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20011012032827.27668.qmail@web14908.mail.yahoo.com> So is mine but at this time of year, its to be expected. They want to go dormant for the winter.Don't overwater. At this time of year,I water deep every 10-14 days. --- oriley@wescap.com wrote: > My Mexican Bird of Paradise is yellowing drastically > and losing its leaves. I never watered it very much > in the past but have recently since the leaves have > yellowed. I don't know if too much water or not > enough. Can you help? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals. http://personals.yahoo.com From jac85014@excite.com Fri Oct 12 23:19:18 2001 From: jac85014@excite.com (jeremy campbell) Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 16:19:18 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] passion and snail Vine ? Message-ID: <28611854.1002928758434.JavaMail.imail@roary.excite.com> I would like to know more about the snail vine(when it grows the most and when to fertalize) and more about the passion vine. Where do these plants grow the best and their yearly growth rate. _______________________________________________________ Send a cool gift with your E-Card http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/ From scott@xeriscapenm.com Fri Oct 12 23:57:31 2001 From: scott@xeriscapenm.com (Scott Varner) Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 16:57:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Xeriscape Conference In Albuquerque 2/2002 Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20011012165658.01dce008@ag.arizona.edu> NEWS RELEASE For Immediate Release Media Contact: Randall Schultz (505) 822-8222 or schcomm@aol.com Xeriscape Conference 2002 to Feature Keynote Presentation by Sen. Paul Simon �Conservation for a Sustainable Future� is the theme for the Xeriscape Conference 2002, to be held in Albuquerque, New Mexico, on February 22 and 23, 2002. The conference will begin with a keynote address by former Sen. Paul Simon, author of Tapped Out, a best-selling book about the impending global water crisis. The keynote address on Saturday, February 23 will be delivered by Peter Warshall, editor of Whole Earth, the magazine of the Whole Earth Catalog, and a well-respected environmental advocate. During the two-day Xeriscape Conference 2002, seminars and workshops will be presented on a wide variety of topics pertaining to landscape water use and conservation. Seminar topics include sustainable planning, landscape architecture, planning a xeriscape demonstration garden, water harvesting and planning perennial gardens for desert climates. �We�ve chosen a full range of seminars and presentations that will be of interest to professionals involved in all facets of landscape design, landscape maintenance, water conservation, water resources planning and water management,� said George Radnovich, president of the Xeriscape Council of New Mexico. �In this, our eighth Xeriscape Conference, we will be addressing water-use issues that have local, regional, national and even international ramifications.� A Xeriscape Fair and Trade Show will run concurrently with the scheduled seminars and presentations. Attendees will be invited to tour the many exhibits and visit with the exhibitors throughout the two-day conference. On Saturday, February 23 only, the general public will also be invited to tour the Xeriscape Fair. The registration fee of $100 for the two-day conference includes all presentations, materials, lunches, refreshments and access to the exhibit hall. Xeriscape Conference 2002 will be held at the Albuquerque Convention Center in downtown Albuquerque. For more information about the conference, call (505) 341-5743 or visit the website at www.xeriscapenm.com. The Xeriscape Council of New Mexico is a volunteer, non-profit tax-exempt organization dedicated to the promotion of water and resource conservation through the use of low-water-use plants, xeric landscaping and site planning. Xeriscape Conference 2002: Conservation for a Sustainable Future February 22-23, 2002 � Albuquerque, New Mexico Schedule of Events Friday February 22, 2002 7:30 a.m. � 8:15 a.m. Registration / Coffee / Snacks 8:15 a.m. � 8:30 a.m. Announcements 8:30 a.m. � 9:30 a.m. Keynote � Global Perspective - Paul Simon 9:30 a.m. � 10.30 a.m. 1st Speaker � Overall Planning - Pliny Fisk (Checking against one other engagement) 10:30 a.m. � 10:45 a.m. Break 10:45 a.m. � 12:15 a.m. 2nd Speaker � The Built Environment - Sim Van Der Yrn 12:15 a.m. � 2:00 p.m. Lunch / Networking / Booth Opening (On-Site) 2:00 p.m. � 3:30 p.m. 3rd Speaker � Planning a Xeriscape Garden - John Powell and Jeri Deneen 3:30 p.m. � 3:45 p.m. Break 3:45 p.m. � 5:15 p.m. 4th Speaker � Regional Perennials - Lauren Springer 5:15 p.m. � 5:45 p.m. Wrap-up (could include speakers) Saturday February 23, 2002 7:30 a.m. � 8:15 a.m. Registration / Coffee / Snacks 8:15 a.m. � 8:30 a.m. Announcements 8:30 a.m. � 9:30 a.m. Keynote � Green Perspective - Peter Warshall 9:30 a.m. � 10.30 a.m. 1st Speaker � Water Harvesting - William Wenk 10:30 a.m. � 10:45 a.m. Break 10:45 a.m. � 12:15 a.m. 2nd Speaker � Desert Trees - Ursula Schuch 12:15 a.m. � 2:00 p.m. Lunch For more information about the conference, call (505) 341-5743 or visit the website at www.xeriscapenm.com. From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Sat Oct 13 01:55:03 2001 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 18:55:03 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] passion and snail Vine ? In-Reply-To: <28611854.1002928758434.JavaMail.imail@roary.excite.com> Message-ID: <20011013015503.42048.qmail@web14909.mail.yahoo.com> Both grow here and do well if given part shade in the summer. Grpwth is about 20 feet per year. Most vines tend to freeze back in cold winters but recover in spring.The passion vine gets attacked by a moth in spring and the larva eats the leave to nothing.A ne wplant should not be fertilized til its been in the gruond for at least 3-4 weeks then you can use a balanced fert. Good luck --- jeremy campbell wrote: > I would like to know more about the snail vine(when > it grows the most and > when to fertalize) and more about the passion vine. > Where do these plants > grow the best and their yearly growth rate. > > > > > > _______________________________________________________ > Send a cool gift with your E-Card > http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/ > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals. http://personals.yahoo.com From w81269@att.net Sat Oct 13 21:46:16 2001 From: w81269@att.net (w81269@att.net) Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 14:46:16 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110132146.f9DLkGI10882@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a 3yr old oso grapefruit tree.It had only 5 fruit this year, they were all very small about the size of a large lemon and they each had a very thick rind. There was hardly no fruit inside the rind was so thick. What have I done wrong? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Oct 14 00:56:34 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 00:56:34 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit, small fruit Message-ID: You probably haven't done anything wrong. Very young grapefruit trees do not produce much fruits and the rinds tend to be thick. Give the tree a few years to mature. Linda Drew Master GArdener >From: w81269@att.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 14:46:16 -0700 (MST) > >I have a 3yr old oso grapefruit tree.It had only 5 fruit this year, they >were all very small about the size of a large lemon and they each had a >very thick rind. There was hardly no fruit inside the rind was so thick. >What have I done wrong? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From lbunker@susd.org Sun Oct 14 01:49:28 2001 From: lbunker@susd.org (lbunker@susd.org) Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 18:49:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110140149.f9E1nPI28195@Ag.arizona.edu> I am working on a biotechnology project for middle school students studying genetically modified food. Is their anyone at our Extension office or the UofA that would be avaliable for consultation? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Oct 14 03:35:13 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 03:35:13 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] biotechnology Message-ID: This web site has results of research with bt-modified cotton: http://ag.arizona.edu/arec/ext/btcotton/display.html I recently heard Dr. Randy Ryan talk about biotechnology. You might try contacting him for more information. rryan@ag.arizona.edu or 621-1845 He is Assistant Director of the Experiment Station. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: lbunker@susd.org >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 18:49:28 -0700 (MST) > >I am working on a biotechnology project for middle school students studying >genetically modified food. Is their anyone at our Extension office or the >UofA that would be avaliable for consultation? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Oct 14 04:18:28 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 00:18:28 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus in Sandy soil Message-ID: <94.1b5c0396.28fa6c14@aol.com> --part1_94.1b5c0396.28fa6c14_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Tom, Since both the valencia and the grapefruit are probably grafted on the same root stock there shouldn't be any difference in how they grow in sandy soil. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_94.1b5c0396.28fa6c14_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Tom,

Since both the valencia and the grapefruit are probably grafted on the same root stock there shouldn't be any difference in how they grow in sandy soil.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_94.1b5c0396.28fa6c14_boundary-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun Oct 14 16:02:45 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 09:02:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: [MG] Extension Information on Genetically Modified Organisms] Message-ID: <3BC9B725.8A1D474E@qwest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------E8F1337F648F9164EBF68018 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit [Sending a second time to copy the list server.] Hi! I'm an Arcadia complex parent ['susd' is us, right?!] and thought you might be interested in some of these websites we Master Gardener volunteers were informed of about a year and a half ago. [Email is below.] The author of the email is the head of the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension office. I hope one of the staff replies as to any 'experts' in the Maricopa County Office. If you don't hear, call MCCE directly at 602/470-8086. I'm forwarding a second email we MGs received from someone who recently gave a talk on a related topic. Linda Guy, MG --------------E8F1337F648F9164EBF68018 Content-Type: message/rfc822; name="nsmail17.TMP" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline; filename="nsmail17.TMP" Received: from smtp02.primenet.com (smtp02.primenet.com [206.165.6.132]) by primenet.com (8.8.8/8.8.5) with ESMTP id HAA20746; Tue, 25 Apr 2000 07:16:12 -0700 (MST) Received: (from daemon@localhost) by smtp02.primenet.com (8.9.3/8.9.3) id HAA01376; Tue, 25 Apr 2000 07:16:01 -0700 (MST) Received: from AG.Arizona.EDU(128.196.42.70) via SMTP by smtp02.primenet.com, id smtpdAAA8Kaqoc; Tue Apr 25 07:15:41 2000 Received: from Ag.Arizona.Edu (Ag.Arizona.Edu [128.196.42.70]) by Ag.Arizona.Edu (8.8.7/8.8.8) with ESMTP id HAA11266; Tue, 25 Apr 2000 07:15:34 -0700 (MST) Received: from mail.sisna.com (mail.sisna.com [209.210.176.29]) by Ag.Arizona.Edu (8.8.7/8.8.8) with ESMTP id SAA29008 for ; Mon, 24 Apr 2000 18:28:11 -0700 (MST) Received: from lucy [209.210.168.91] by mail.sisna.com with ESMTP (SMTPD32-6.00) id A413736011C; Mon, 24 Apr 2000 19:25:39 -0600 Message-Id: <4.2.0.58.20000424183003.009c9f00@mail.sisna.com> X-Sender: LBradley@mail.sisna.com X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Pro Version 4.2.0.58 Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2000 18:31:26 -0700 To: maricopa-mg@Ag.Arizona.Edu From: "Stanley D. Farlin" (by way of Lucy Bradley ) Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Subject: [MG] Extension Information on Genetically Modified Organisms Sender: maricopa-mg-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu Errors-To: maricopa-mg-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu X-Mailman-Version: 1.0 Precedence: bulk List-Id: Master Gardeners in Maricopa County X-BeenThere: maricopa-mg@Ag.Arizona.Edu X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 >Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2000 13:29:52 -0700 >To: djyoung@Ag.Arizona.Edu, jimc@Ag.Arizona.Edu, ced >From: Eugene Sander >Subject: Extension Information on GMOs > >April 14, 2000 > >A recent note from Barry Bequette indicates that Arizona Cooperative Extension >has very little available information on the GMO debate. Consequently, as one >who has been actively involved in this issue since its beginning, I am >going to >provide you with several web sites where you can access excellent, unbiased >information for presentations you may wish to make at the county level. >Included is one from an extension specialist, Peggy Lemaux, at the University >of California at Berkeley, which in my opinion is one of the better >sources. I >will also forward to you e-mail messages from Martin Lemon who has a clipping >service on the topic of GMOs. > >Gene Sander >Dean of the College of Agriculture > >http://plantbio.berkeley.edu/~outreach >http://www.agbioforum.org >http://www.aphis.usda.gov/biotechnology/links.html >http://www.nature.com/nbt >http://www.isb.vt.edu >http://www.usinfo.state.gov/topical/global/biotech > > > > > >================================ >Eugene G. Sander, Vice Provost and Dean >College of Agriculture >University of Arizona, Tucson, AZ 85721 >Phone: (520) 621-7621 Fax: (520) 621-7196 >E-mail: egsander@ag.arizona.edu >================================ > > Stanley D. Farlin, Director Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 602-470-8086 ext. 326 _______________________________________________ Maricopa-mg mailing list Maricopa-mg@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/maricopa-mg --------------E8F1337F648F9164EBF68018-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun Oct 14 16:09:14 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 09:09:14 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Greater Phoenix Pond Society Message-ID: <3BC9B8AA.F955F729@qwest.net> I was reminded of this organization, of which I used to be a member. Your friends might like to get involved. http://www.phoenixpond.com/ Linda Guy, MG From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun Oct 14 16:10:53 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 09:10:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Greater Phoenix Pond Society Message-ID: <3BC9B90D.715B2BBA@qwest.net> [Resent to correct mailing address.] I was reminded of this organization, of which I used to be a member. Your friends might like to get involved. http://www.phoenixpond.com/ Linda Guy, MG From jemmstar@yahoo.com Sun Oct 14 18:47:52 2001 From: jemmstar@yahoo.com (jemmstar@yahoo.com) Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 11:47:52 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110141847.f9EIlqI09691@Ag.arizona.edu> I have noticed a white powdery substance appearing on many of my prickly pear plants. Should I be worried? How can I put an end to it? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Oct 14 19:32:03 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 15:32:03 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cochineal Scale Message-ID: <151.2756c6a.28fb4233@aol.com> --part1_151.2756c6a.28fb4233_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The white substance on your prickly pear cactus is called Cochineal Scale. Under the white fluffy coating is an insect that is feeding on your cactus. To get rid of it flush with a strong stream of water, try to remove all of the white substance. This is an ongoing problem as the scale usually comes back. Insecticides do not help because the insecticide will not penetrate the white covering. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_151.2756c6a.28fb4233_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The white substance on your prickly pear cactus is called Cochineal Scale. Under the white fluffy coating is an insect that is feeding on your cactus. To get rid of it flush with a strong stream of water, try to remove all of the white substance. This is an ongoing problem as the scale usually comes back. Insecticides do not help because the insecticide will not penetrate the white covering.

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_151.2756c6a.28fb4233_boundary-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Oct 14 19:57:31 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 19:57:31 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] cochineal scale Message-ID: Your prickly pear is probably being attacked by an insect called cochineal scale. The small red scale insect covers itself with a protective white cushiony material. Wash the protective covering and scale off the pads with a strong jet of water from the garden hose. Pads that are severely attacked can be pruned out (cut at the joint). I have also used a spray bottle filled with a teaspoon of dish liquid dissolved in the bottle of water. Spray each spot. Then rinse the whole plant off with water. This fascinating scale insect is the source of a red dye. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: jemmstar@yahoo.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 11:47:52 -0700 (MST) > >I have noticed a white powdery substance appearing on many of my prickly >pear plants. Should I be worried? How can I put an end to it? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From sjones630@home.com Sun Oct 14 23:47:56 2001 From: sjones630@home.com (Jones Family) Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 16:47:56 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palm Message-ID: <000801c1550a$a6472980$8a163818@coxphxexpress.com> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C154CF.F9A52E00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hello, we have a small (6') Queen Palm that was planted about a year 1/2 = ago in the corner of our yard. It gets a lot of sun in the summer time = but will get morning to early afternoon sun the rest of the year. It = seems as though it doesn't grow at all. The older fronds are yellow on = the ends and any new fronds seem to be crinkled and mutated. They don't = grow out or even to the length of the older fronds. We have fertilized = it and have changed the watering several times (per a local nursery's = suggestions) yet we are not having much luck. I so love the Queen Palms = (have been told they don't grow well here in Arizona) yet I do see many = wonderful trees throughout our neighborhood. Do you have any suggestions = of other things we might try? ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C154CF.F9A52E00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hello, we have a small (6') Queen Palm that was = planted=20 about a year 1/2 ago in the corner of our yard. It gets a lot of sun in = the=20 summer time but will get morning to early afternoon sun the rest of the = year. It=20 seems as though it doesn't grow at all. The older fronds are yellow on = the ends=20 and any new fronds seem to be crinkled and mutated. They don't grow out = or even=20 to the length of the older fronds. We have fertilized it and have = changed=20 the watering several times (per a local nursery's suggestions) yet we = are not=20 having much luck. I so love the Queen Palms (have been told they don't = grow well=20 here in Arizona) yet I do see many wonderful trees throughout our = neighborhood.=20 Do you have any suggestions of other things we might=20 try?

------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C154CF.F9A52E00-- From cdealera1@aol.com Mon Oct 15 04:48:51 2001 From: cdealera1@aol.com (cdealera1@aol.com) Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 00:48:51 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: <143.3145268.28fbc4b3@aol.com> --part1_143.3145268.28fbc4b3_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Please remove me from mailing list --part1_143.3145268.28fbc4b3_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Please remove me from mailing list --part1_143.3145268.28fbc4b3_boundary-- From Otero_Woodward@qwest.net Mon Oct 15 04:55:25 2001 From: Otero_Woodward@qwest.net (Otero_Woodward@qwest.net) Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 21:55:25 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110150455.f9F4tPI15666@Ag.arizona.edu> Here in south Scottsdale we recently had a microburst that broke a large branch of our 25+ year old lemon tree. Sawing the damaged branch off left a large 'hole' in the south side of the tree structure. I think that this led to sunburn of other, now exposed, large branches of the tree. These have recently developed split bark and long exposed areas. Should we paint these (rather high) branches white? Or seal with pruning sealer? Or something else? Bandages?! Thanks for your help. From menuccibob@qwest.net Mon Oct 15 05:47:18 2001 From: menuccibob@qwest.net (menuccibob@qwest.net) Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 22:47:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110150547.f9F5lII21637@Ag.arizona.edu> Hi, thanks for taking the time for me. First of all, I live in Norh Central Phoenix around the Deer Valley Airport (I forgot to tell you that last time). I have places around my home where evan weeds won't grow. For instance, the small 2'X 6' area infront of my picture windows (facing East). Early in summer, a friend gave me a big garbage bag of some horse manure, and I spread some of that there, but is there something else I should or could do? Then, should I treat the diferent exposures around my home differently? Finally I just want to say you folks provide a terrific service for a novice like me, so thanks! Bob Menucci From bdow@aes.ac.in Mon Oct 15 10:23:59 2001 From: bdow@aes.ac.in (bdow@aes.ac.in) Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 03:23:59 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110151023.f9FANvI10219@Ag.arizona.edu> We have just purchased an acre lot in Glendale AZ which is SRP irrigated land. We would like to plant some trees in December that would provide a great deal of shade / leaves year round / take advantage of the irrigation (rather than desert xerioscape(sp) ) flowering if possible. We were thinking Oak ?? What do you think? We would like these trees to go around the perimeter of the property. Thanks so very much. From bdow@aes.ac.in Mon Oct 15 10:24:51 2001 From: bdow@aes.ac.in (bdow@aes.ac.in) Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 03:24:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110151024.f9FAOpI10287@Ag.arizona.edu> We have just purchased an acre lot in Glendale AZ which is SRP irrigated land. We would like to plant some trees in December that would provide a great deal of shade / leaves year round / take advantage of the irrigation (rather than desert xerioscape(sp) ) flowering if possible. We were thinking Oak ?? What do you think? We would like these trees to go around the perimeter of the property. Thanks so very much. Barbara Dow From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Oct 15 14:57:17 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 14:57:17 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] trees for acreage Message-ID: You might want to take a look at the Southwest Tree Seedling Program offered through Greenwood Nursery. Check it at: http://greenwoodnursery.com/ They have trees and shrubs adapted to this area. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: bdow@aes.ac.in >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 03:24:51 -0700 (MST) > >We have just purchased an acre lot in Glendale AZ which is SRP irrigated >land. > >We would like to plant some trees in December that would provide >a great deal of shade / leaves year round / take advantage of the >irrigation (rather than desert xerioscape(sp) ) >flowering if possible. > >We were thinking Oak ?? What do you think? > >We would like these trees to go around the perimeter of the property. > >Thanks so very much. > >Barbara Dow > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From bradleyl@Ag.arizona.edu Sat Oct 13 22:21:17 2001 From: bradleyl@Ag.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 15:21:17 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: Permaculture classes in Tucson Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20011013152018.01e64c78@ag.arizona.edu> >TO REGISTER FOR COURSES DESCRIBED BELOW, use registration form below. Or > >contact: DAWN/Out On Bale By Mail, 6570 W. Illinois St., Tucson, AZ > >85735, Tel: 520- 624 1673 or email: dawnaz@earthlink.net, web site: > >http://www.greenbuilder.com/dawn > > > > SONORAN PERMACULTURE TEACHER'S GUILD PRESENTS EVENTS FOR FALL 2001 AND > > SPRING/SUMMER 2002 > > Co-sponsor: DAWN/Out On Bale By Mail > > > >INTRODUCTION TO PERMACULTURE FOR HOUSEHOLDERS, Saturday & Sunday, > >October 13-14, 2001. & January 26-27, 2002, Tucson, AZ This newly > >developed 2-day course is specifically designed to get you started > >designing your site for a sustainable future. Exercises will show you > >how to map and assess sun, wind, water drainage, cold air drainage, > >artificial light, noise, and other important factors affecting a site. > >Make seed pellets and plant tree seeds in tubes to take home and use at > >your own site. See slides of rainwater harvesting, desert housing, > >appropriate building techniques, gardening, and native food harvesting > >techniques and discuss these with teachers and students in an > >interactive setting. Learn about community resources, sample native food > >snacks, and meet like-minded people in this fun and action-packed > >weekend that just might change your life! This will be offered in both > >fall 2001 and spring 2002. Each workshop will cover the same > >information. Bring gloves, hat, water bottle, and sack lunch. Cost: > >$150. To register, contact DAWN/Out On Bale By Mail, 6570 W. Illinois > >t., Tucson, AZ 85735, Tel: 520- 624 1673 or email: dawnaz@earthlink.net > > > > > >HANDS-ON RAINWATER HARVESTING, Saturday, November 3, 2001, & Saturday, > >March 2, 2002, Tucson, AZ > >Learning how to use rainfall and stormwater runoff helps you save > >groundwater, reduce your overall water needs, reduce erosion, and make > >your plants happy, all at the same time. This hands-on workshop will > >show you how to lay out and build microbasins, swales, French drains and > >small gabions. Principles of reading and assessing a landscape's water > >flow, basic water harvesting strategies, working with gravity and land > >contours, mulching, and plant selection will be covered. A steel culvert > >cistern will be constructed to capture rooftop runoff. You will help lay > >out the plumbing, create the base of the tank, place a steel culvert > >cistern into place, and hook up the cistern to the roof downspout. We > >will cover runoff calculations, tank size, optimum tank placement, water > >quality, safety issues, other types of tank systems, and mosquito > >prevention. A resource handout will be provided. Be ready for the rainy > >season! This is a hands-on workshop so come prepared to get dirty, and > >bring gloves, hat, water bottle, and sack lunch. We are offering two > >water harvesting workshops in 2001-2002. Each will cover the same > >information. Cost: $125. To register, contact DAWN/Out On Bale By > >Mail, 6570 W. Illinois St., Tucson, AZ 85735, Tel: 520- 624 1673 or > >email: dawnaz@earthlink.net > > > >DESERT HOUSING AND APPROPRIATE BUILDING TECHNIQUES, Saturday, February > >9, 2002, Tucson, AZ > >Sun, wind, water and earth create the patterns at the heart of > >appropriate desert building. These patterns will be the starting point > >for a day of immersion in sustainable building techniques. Adobe, cob, > >rammed earth and strawbale will be used in hand-on projects to create > >walls, benches, and other small structures. The wonderful world of earth > >plasters will be explored. Sizing, design, foundations and protection > >will be addressed for different building materials. You'll learn the > >simple, inexpensive and highly effective keys to energy efficiency > >including appropriate solar orientation, strategic shading, appropriate > >sizing, harvesting rainwater and graywater to support vegetation, > >appropriate choice of building materials, and appropriate scale. A > >resource handout will be provided. This is a hands-on workshop so come > >prepared to get dirty and bring gloves, hat, water bottle, and sack > >lunch. Cost: $125. To register, contact DAWN/Out On Bale By Mail, 6570 > >W. Illinois St., Tucson, AZ 85735, Tel: 520- 624 1673 or email: > >dawnaz@earthlink.net > > > >PERMACULTURE BASIC DESIGN COURSE - 2002 > >This course focuses on drylands applications of permaculture and is > >taught by instructors well-versed in the unique characteristics of the > >southwestern US. Integrated site analysis and integrated design for > >drylands are the cornerstones of the course, which consists of classroom > >activities, hands-on experience, and design projects. The 72 hours of > >instruction cover patterns in nature and design, permaculture > >principles, mapping, integrated site analysis, energy sectors and zones, > >drylands characteristics, site design. sustainability techniques, > >plants and animals in permaculture design, and community resources. > >Hands-on activities will include designing and constructing earthen > >water harvesting tructures, using natural building materials and > >plasters, arranging and constructing drylands gardens and processing and > >cooking native foods. Students will help prepare a permaculture concept > >design for the course site as well as developing permaculture designs > >for their own ites. Course format will be a 9-day residential course, > >with teaching occurring each day of that time period. This course is > >certified through the Permaculture Drylands Institute. > > > >Planning is underway for this course to be held next summer in the > >mountains of central Arizona. Final cost, location, and dates will be > >announced later this fall. > > > >TO GET EMAIL NOTIFICATION OF SPECIFIC INFORMATION ON THIS EVENT LATER > >THIS FALL, SEND EMAIL REQUEST TO dawnaz@earthlink.net ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ From msmike@aol.com Mon Oct 15 16:13:58 2001 From: msmike@aol.com (msmike@aol.com) Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 09:13:58 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110151613.f9FGDwI29078@Ag.arizona.edu> I have an area in my back yard (facing south) where the plants keep dying. There have been a number of ant hills in the area which have been treated on the surface. This morning I was going to dig out the juniper plants and try something new. When digging into the area surrounding the root ball, the soil underneath the surface is crawling with ants. Of course, I'm now reluctant to plant my new plants. In the past, I've removed plants, treated and replanted, but always end up with the same results. Please advise if there is anything longlasting I can do myself or if it would be advantageous to hire an exterminator. From j_harrell@NetZero.net Mon Oct 15 18:07:50 2001 From: j_harrell@NetZero.net (Jackie and Bill Harrell) Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 11:07:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Butterflies/Passion Flower Message-ID: <3BCB25F6.5631BF78@NetZero.net> Dear Master Gardeners, My passion flower vine has run wild because I haven't been able to tend my garden for months. As I contemplate how to deal with the resulting bramble which extends over several square yards, I see a couple hundred caterpillars in there in various stages of metamorphasizing (sp?). And there are dozens of Gulf Fritillaries butterflies flying (I call them Jeffies because of the G.F. initials). My problem is, how can I tear down their homeland - how does one go about this and not destroy both the caterpillars and the butterflies who, I think, continue to feast on the passion flower vine? And do they need water provided, like in a bird bath or something? Is there a season for them which I could wait out? I'm beginning to think the vine itself never dies here in the Valley! Help - my bramble grows even as we speak! Sincerely, Jackie Harrell ---------------------------------------------------- Sign Up for NetZero Platinum Today Only $9.95 per month! http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97 From Marcia_A._Fredman@hud.gov Mon Oct 15 19:15:51 2001 From: Marcia_A._Fredman@hud.gov (Marcia_A._Fredman@hud.gov) Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 12:15:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110151915.f9FJFpI12963@Ag.arizona.edu> Help! I live in the southeast Gilbert area. White flies are destroying my winter vegetable garden. I tried spraying them with dish soap/water, which didn't help a bit. I hate to use insecticide on vegetables, but don't know anything else to try. Any suggestions you may have are appreciated. Thanks! From crymer@Ag.arizona.edu Mon Oct 15 20:33:34 2001 From: crymer@Ag.arizona.edu (Cathy Rymer) Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 13:33:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200110140149.f9E1nPI28195@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20011015132528.00aab370@ag.arizona.edu> You might also try www.whybiotech.com the web site for the Council for Biotechnology Information. The offer free publications including: Biotechnology - Good Ideas Are Growing Food Biotech and You Information Kit with nine fact sheets You can also contact Monica Pastor, University of Arizona Agent for Agricultural Literacy here in Maricopa County. mpastor@ag.arizona.edu, 602-470-8086 x 317. I hope this helps. Cathy At 06:49 PM 10/13/2001 -0700, lbunker@susd.org wrote: >I am working on a biotechnology project for middle school students >studying genetically modified food. Is their anyone at our Extension >office or the UofA that would be avaliable for consultation? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Catherine Rymer Instructional Specialist, Sr., Urban Horticulture University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Phoenix, AZ 85040 http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ From mark.rosati@pcmail.maricopa.edu Mon Oct 15 20:36:10 2001 From: mark.rosati@pcmail.maricopa.edu (mark.rosati@pcmail.maricopa.edu) Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 13:36:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110152036.f9FKaAI00437@Ag.arizona.edu> I am interested in planting table/eating grapes. I would like to know several things about growing grapes in Phoenix. 1) Can I plant in the Fall? 2) What large fruited red or black grapes might I have success with in Phoenix and who sells them. Thanks for any information submitted. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Oct 15 21:51:33 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 21:51:33 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] whitefly management Message-ID: THis reply was posted by Lucy Bradley to a similar question: "recommendations for whitefly management: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/whitefly.htm Delay planting fall vegetables until mid-October when whitefly populations diminish. Native, and well adapted plants are less vulnerable to whitefly attack. A homemade spray for whiteflies and scales: mix one cup vegetable oil plus one tablespoon dish detergent (regular, not concentrated, and not citrus based) in a pint jar and shake. Add one to two teaspoons of this mixture to one cup of water in a spray bottle and spray the underside of leaves to dripping. Always spray a few leaves and check 24 hours latter for leaf burn before spraying entire plant (Courtesy Dr. George Butler). Neither ladybeetles http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/ladybug.htm nor lacewings http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/lacewing.htm are effective in whitefly management." Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Marcia_A._Fredman@hud.gov >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 12:15:51 -0700 (MST) > >Help! > >I live in the southeast Gilbert area. White flies are destroying my winter >vegetable garden. I tried spraying them with dish soap/water, which didn't >help a bit. I hate to use insecticide on vegetables, but don't know >anything else to try. Any suggestions you may have are appreciated. >Thanks! > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From jarias20@home.com Mon Oct 15 23:54:52 2001 From: jarias20@home.com (Joseph R. Arias) Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 16:54:52 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Availability of articles in electronic form Message-ID: <004001c155d4$c8c891e0$adac0618@chnd1.az.home.com> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_003D_01C1559A.1BF43BC0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Ms. Rauscher, I enjoy reading your column "Desert Landscape." I find it very = informative and well written. Are your articles available to the public = in an electronic format? I would like to save the information in some of = your articles without transcribing into an electronic file or scanning = the newspaper article or saving the paper article. I am especially = interested in your article [East Valley Tribune "Desert Landscape"] of = 29 September on planting winter grass. I have seen similar information = in other pamphlets or brochures but I like your presentation best. Respectfully, Joseph R. Arias Chandler, Arizona ------=_NextPart_000_003D_01C1559A.1BF43BC0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Ms. Rauscher,

I enjoy reading your column "Desert Landscape." = I find it=20 very informative and well written. Are your articles available to the = public in=20 an electronic format? I would like to save the information in some of = your=20 articles without transcribing into an electronic file or scanning the = newspaper=20 article or saving the paper article. I am especially interested in your = article=20 [East Valley Tribune "Desert Landscape"] of 29 September on = planting=20 winter grass. I have seen similar information in other pamphlets or = brochures=20 but I like your presentation best.

Respectfully,

Joseph R. Arias

Chandler, Arizona

------=_NextPart_000_003D_01C1559A.1BF43BC0-- From pauliehk@aol.com Tue Oct 16 02:22:28 2001 From: pauliehk@aol.com (pauliehk@aol.com) Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 19:22:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110160222.f9G2MSI01155@Ag.arizona.edu> New to the desert. Recently relocated from NYC to Palm Springs, CA. Recently purchased very expensive variegated agave. Planted in hugh ceramic planter with catus potting soil. Gets late morning and afternoon sun. The leaves are starting to get thinner. How often should I water an agave in a planter? Please help! I want to save this beautiful plant. From dealejandro_family@yahoo.com Tue Oct 16 02:44:07 2001 From: dealejandro_family@yahoo.com (Edward & Jackee De Alejandro) Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 19:44:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200110151915.f9FJFpI12963@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: I am having the same problem at Luke AFB.....any suggestions...anyone have any success with the yellow paper and Vaseline? Thanks! Jackee www.dealejandro.com -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Marcia_A._Fredman@hud.gov Sent: Monday, October 15, 2001 12:16 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Help! I live in the southeast Gilbert area. White flies are destroying my winter vegetable garden. I tried spraying them with dish soap/water, which didn't help a bit. I hate to use insecticide on vegetables, but don't know anything else to try. Any suggestions you may have are appreciated. Thanks! _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Oct 16 03:14:19 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 23:14:19 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lemon tree sunburned Message-ID: <16f.26a02d0.28fd000b@aol.com> --part1_16f.26a02d0.28fd000b_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit White paint or any type of covering such as burlap will help- to prevent sun burn on branches or trunk of your lemon tree. Do not use pruning sealer on sunburn cracks or any pruning cut, it will help bacteria to enter the tree. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_16f.26a02d0.28fd000b_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit White paint or any type of covering such as burlap will help- to prevent sun burn on branches or trunk of your lemon tree. Do not use pruning sealer on sunburn cracks or any pruning cut, it will help bacteria to enter the tree.

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_16f.26a02d0.28fd000b_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Oct 16 03:14:21 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 23:14:21 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palm Message-ID: <15.1c3db58b.28fd000d@aol.com> --part1_15.1c3db58b.28fd000d_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It is true that Queen Palms are not well adapted to our low desert heat, alkaline soils and hot winds in the summer. Therefore it is most important that queen palms be watered adequately and fertilized several times a year with fertilizer designed for palm trees. The crinkled and mutalated fronds are indicative of a manganese dificiency. If this dificiency is severe I would suggest that you contact a Certified Arborist for an appraisal and or a treatment. Check out these sites for more info on palms and proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_15.1c3db58b.28fd000d_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It is true that Queen Palms are not well adapted to our low desert heat, alkaline soils and hot winds in the summer. Therefore it is most important that queen palms be watered adequately and fertilized several times a year with fertilizer designed for palm trees. The crinkled and mutalated fronds are indicative of a manganese dificiency. If this dificiency is severe I would suggest that you contact a Certified Arborist for an appraisal and or a treatment.
Check out these sites for more info on palms and proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_15.1c3db58b.28fd000d_boundary-- From schmoll99@yahoo.com Tue Oct 16 13:35:49 2001 From: schmoll99@yahoo.com (schmoll99@yahoo.com) Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 06:35:49 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110161335.f9GDZnI12155@Ag.arizona.edu> We live in a gated community that is very strict about what is planted. Our CC&R's state we can plant almost any natural desert tree. We need to replace 4 acacia selignas that have died within the last 3 months. We would like to replace them with possibly chilean mesquites. The purpose of the trees would be for shade. We don't want messy trees. Can you recomend another desert tree that we should consider? Thank You Kim From bcvoax@aol.com Tue Oct 16 16:06:21 2001 From: bcvoax@aol.com (bcvoax@aol.com) Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 09:06:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110161606.f9GG6KI04949@Ag.arizona.edu> This past year I had several rose bushes that died and when I removed them I noticed grubs (worms) around the roots and am wondering if they caused the roses to die or at least contributed to it. Thank you From kasko@teneyckla.com Tue Oct 16 16:51:51 2001 From: kasko@teneyckla.com (Joanne Kasko) Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 09:51:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200110152036.f9FKaAI00437@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Here's a link to a previous message regarding grapes with info on our publication MC59 for growing backyard grapes. This message also refers to George Brookbank's book which is extremely helpful on vegetable/fruit growing in the desert. http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-July/004847.html -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of mark.rosati@pcmail.maricopa.edu Sent: Monday, October 15, 2001 1:36 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am interested in planting table/eating grapes. I would like to know several things about growing grapes in Phoenix. 1) Can I plant in the Fall? 2) What large fruited red or black grapes might I have success with in Phoenix and who sells them. Thanks for any information submitted. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From patty@pwyattporcelaindolls.com Wed Oct 17 00:53:36 2001 From: patty@pwyattporcelaindolls.com (patty@pwyattporcelaindolls.com) Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 17:53:36 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110170053.f9H0raI25735@Ag.arizona.edu> What is oleander gall, and can you send me a picture of what it looks like. I think all of my oleanders have it. It looks like a fungus, brown knubby knots all the oleander. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Oct 17 00:55:13 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 20:55:13 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roses dying Message-ID: <129.6212112.28fe30f1@aol.com> --part1_129.6212112.28fe30f1_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It is unlikely that the grubs that you found in the root zone of your roses caused their demise. Nematodes, an insect that attaches itself to the roots and looks like a bump on the roots sometimes will cause the death of rose bushes. If you will detail how you have cared for you roses since pruning them last winter I will no doubt be able to help you discover what went wrong. I'm enclosing an article written for the Republic on Summer Rose Care which may give you an answer. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian SUMMER ROSE CARE The summer months are especially tough on roses, however, here are some tips to help them survive our hot weather. Roses need to be watered frequently and deeply. Water at least twice each week, and if they look stressed, water again. Deep watering will encourage the roots to grow deeper and will also flush the salts below the root level. Roses in containers will have to be watered several times a week. As long as you have good soil, a combination of one-third native soil, one-third mulch and one-third sand, perlite, peat moss or pumice, you'll have good drainage and you won't over water. Roses also need to stay cool. Use three to four inches of good mulch around each rose bush. You can use compost, peat moss, forest mulch, straw or bark chips. This will not only keep the root's cool, it will also conserve moisture, cut down on weeds and help too built a good healthy soil structure. Roses are heavy feeders and need some fertilizer during the hot summer. A slow release granular fertilizer works well and usually lasts about six weeks. Use one-third to one-half cup for each standard size bush. Scatter the fertilizer around the drip line. Water well before and after each application to prevent burning the roots. You can also use a water soluble fertilizer, such as Miracle Grow, Peters or Magnum Grow, but this will need to be applied every two weeks. In the summer, use one-half the amount you would normally use. Again, water well before and after applying the fertilizer. Roses slow down during our hot months and produce smaller and fewer blooms. Cut off spent blooms, cut back to the first five-leaflet set, leave as much foliage as possible. The foliage will help to shade the bush. Watch for sucker growth, these are canes that come from below the bud union. They appear different from the other canes. Cut them off below the bud union. The hot dry weather will bring a variety of insects Watch the lower leaves for spider mites. The lower leaves will be lighter and have a fuzzy appearance. The underside of the leaf will feel like sandpaper. The spider mites suck the juice from the underside of the leaf. To control them, remove the damaged foliage and use a strong spray of water every other day. If this does not take care of them, there are several effective miticides on the market. Remember to read and follow directions on thecontainer. Aphids are the most common of the insects affecting roses. They can be green, brown or reddish brown. They suck the juices from the bush and leave a shiney sticky substance on the leaves. To get rid of them use a strong spray of water every day. Thrips are probably the most damaging of the insects. They are tiny, brownish yellow winged insects. You can barely see them. They enter the bud and eat on the flower petals, causing them to turn brown. The only way to control them is to spray the buds before they open with a good insecticide. Besure to read and follow directions on the package. Leaf cutter bees will make semicircles in the rose leaves. They use the leaf circles to build their nests. The damage to the plant is minimal, and the bees are important pollinators, so there is no need for control. Other problems to watch out for are nutrient deficiencies. The most common is iron deficiency. The leaves will be pale green or yellow with dark green veins. Add chelated iron (FE 138) according to package directions. Nitrogen deficiency is characterized by yellowing of the leaves, reduced growth, weak and spindly stems. With a Potassium deficiency the older leaves will turn yellow and then brown, sometimes purple. New shoots will harden , stunted and flower buds may become distorted. Phosphorus deficiency will cause older leaves to drop without turning yellow, leaves appear dull grey-green and may cup down. Manganese deficiency is similar to iron chlorosis in that there is interveinal chlorosis. The small veins remain green with a netted appearance. Zinc deficiency causes new growth to stop and also causes distorted chlorotic leaves. These problems can all re corrected with a good rose fertilizer. Maintaining a good soil PH of 6.0 to 6.5 is ideal for growing good roses. The best way to take care of your roses in summer is to make sure they have enough water, mulch, light fertilizer and wash off the leaves and stems in the early morning with a strong spray of water at least twice a week. Be sure to get the underside of the leaf. This will keep the roses clean, increase the humidity and will help to control insects before they can cause any damage. Watch your roses throughout the summer. Keep them cool and well watered and they will reward you with beautiful blooms in the fall. Marylou Coffman Rod McKusick Master Gardners and Consulting Rosarians --part1_129.6212112.28fe30f1_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It is unlikely that the grubs that you found in the root zone of your roses caused their demise. Nematodes, an insect that attaches itself to the roots and looks like a bump on the roots sometimes will cause the death of rose bushes.

If you will detail how you have cared for you roses since pruning them last winter I will no doubt be able to help you discover what went wrong.

I'm enclosing an article written for the Republic on Summer Rose Care which may give you an answer.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian

                                 SUMMER ROSE CARE

       The summer months are especially tough on roses, however, here are some tips to help them survive our hot weather.

      Roses need to be watered frequently and deeply. Water at least twice each week, and if they look stressed, water again. Deep watering will encourage the roots to grow deeper and will also flush the salts below the root level.

     Roses in containers will have to be watered several times a week. As long as you have good soil, a combination of one-third native soil, one-third mulch and one-third sand, perlite, peat moss or pumice, you'll have good drainage and you won't over water.

       Roses also need to stay cool. Use three to four inches of good mulch around each rose bush. You can use compost, peat moss, forest mulch, straw or bark chips. This will not only keep the root's cool, it will also conserve moisture, cut down on weeds and help too built a good healthy soil structure.

       Roses are heavy feeders and need some fertilizer during the hot
summer. A slow release granular fertilizer works well and usually lasts about six weeks. Use one-third to one-half cup for each standard size bush. Scatter the fertilizer around the drip line. Water well before and after each application to prevent burning the roots. You can also use a water soluble fertilizer, such as Miracle Grow, Peters or Magnum Grow, but this will need to be applied every two weeks. In the summer, use one-half the amount you would normally use. Again, water well before and after applying the fertilizer.

       Roses slow down during our hot months and produce smaller and fewer blooms. Cut off spent blooms, cut back to the first five-leaflet set, leave as much foliage as possible. The foliage will help to shade the bush.

       Watch for sucker growth, these are canes that come from below the bud union. They appear different from the other canes. Cut them off below the bud union.



       The hot dry weather will bring a variety of insects Watch the lower leaves for spider mites. The lower leaves will be lighter and have a fuzzy appearance. The underside of the leaf will feel like sandpaper. The spider mites suck the juice from the underside of the leaf. To control them, remove the damaged foliage and use a strong spray of water every other day. If this does not take care of them, there are several effective miticides on the market. Remember to read and follow directions on thecontainer.

     Aphids are the most common of the insects affecting roses. They can be green, brown or reddish brown. They suck the juices from the bush and leave a shiney sticky substance on the leaves. To get rid of them use a strong spray of water every day.

      Thrips are probably the most damaging of the insects. They are tiny, brownish yellow winged insects. You can barely see them. They enter the bud and eat on the flower petals, causing them to turn brown. The only way to control them is to spray the buds before they open with a good insecticide. Besure to read and follow directions on the package.

     Leaf cutter bees will make semicircles in the rose leaves. They
use the leaf circles to build their nests. The damage to the plant is minimal, and the bees are important pollinators, so there is no need for control.

       Other problems to watch out for are nutrient deficiencies. The most common is iron deficiency. The leaves will be pale green or yellow with dark green veins. Add chelated iron (FE 138) according to package
directions.

    Nitrogen deficiency is characterized by yellowing of the leaves, reduced growth, weak and spindly stems.

     With a Potassium deficiency the older leaves will turn yellow and then brown, sometimes purple. New shoots will harden , stunted and flower buds may become distorted.

     Phosphorus deficiency will cause older leaves to drop without turning yellow, leaves appear dull grey-green and may cup down.

    Manganese deficiency is similar to iron chlorosis in that there is interveinal chlorosis. The small veins remain green with a netted appearance.

     Zinc deficiency causes new growth to stop and also causes distorted chlorotic leaves.

     These problems can all re corrected with a good rose fertilizer.
Maintaining a good soil PH of 6.0 to 6.5 is ideal for growing good roses.

     The best way to take care of your roses in summer is to make sure they have enough water, mulch, light fertilizer and wash off the leaves and stems in the early morning with a strong spray of water at least twice a week. Be sure to get the underside of the leaf. This will keep the roses clean, increase the humidity and will help to control insects before they can cause
any damage.

     Watch your roses throughout the summer. Keep them cool and well watered and they will reward you with beautiful blooms in the fall.

Marylou Coffman
Rod McKusick
Master Gardners and Consulting Rosarians --part1_129.6212112.28fe30f1_boundary-- From sewcool@mstar2.net Wed Oct 17 03:23:05 2001 From: sewcool@mstar2.net (sewcool@mstar2.net) Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 20:23:05 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110170323.f9H3N5I15868@Ag.arizona.edu> What is the best, easiest or fastest way to get rid of bermuda grass in my vegetable/flower garden? And how do I keep it out of my garden. I have a small garden with good drainage edged by railroad ties. It is time to get a fall garden it and the grass has taken over. Its very difficult to pull it out and it always grows back. I currently have some large marigold bushes, amaryllis bulbs, and hiacynths bulbs in the garden plot. I had 6 tomato plants that did well there until the end of July. Thanks for you help. From REmarty@aol.com Wed Oct 17 04:10:09 2001 From: REmarty@aol.com (REmarty@aol.com) Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 21:10:09 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110170410.f9H4A9I20505@Ag.arizona.edu> I purchased a home in E. Mesa in 1997. For the first two years I had great very sweet navel oranges on two very mature tree's. Since then as soon as the oranges start to rippen the birds are drilling a hole in them. The orange then contacts bugs and falls off the tree, the orange then is not any good.This happens until all of the fruit is gone. I have spoken with many people who have not heard of this. My theory is that humming birds are doing this because of the sweetness, and also because this happens when some of the oranges are hanging down where this could only happen if the bird is hoovering.This happens as soon as the orange has a little color, it does not happen when the orange is green. I have not seen this happening in other orange tree's. I am at very frustrated and hope you can help me. Thank You From REmarty@aol.com Wed Oct 17 04:11:33 2001 From: REmarty@aol.com (REmarty@aol.com) Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 21:11:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110170411.f9H4BXI20596@Ag.arizona.edu> I purchased a home in E. Mesa in 1997. For the first two years I had great very sweet navel oranges on two very mature tree's. Since then as soon as the oranges start to rippen the birds are drilling a hole in them. The orange then contacts bugs and falls off the tree, the orange then is not any good.This happens until all of the fruit is gone. I have spoken with many people who have not heard of this. My theory is that humming birds are doing this because of the sweetness, and also because this happens when some of the oranges are hanging down where this could only happen if the bird is hoovering.This happens as soon as the orange has a little color, it does not happen when the orange is green. I have not seen this happening in other orange tree's. I am at very frustrated and hope you can help me. Thank You From g_clearwater@juno.com Wed Oct 17 14:02:46 2001 From: g_clearwater@juno.com (g_clearwater@juno.com) Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 07:02:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110171402.f9HE2kI12920@Ag.arizona.edu> i have several olive trees that need to be trimmed, i would like to trim them before winter winds and storms. is it alright to prune them now? From jkandell@twistedclicks.com Sun Oct 14 22:25:24 2001 From: jkandell@twistedclicks.com (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 15:25:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] good green bean for really hot weather Message-ID: <001201c1571c$5a00fec0$1eab3604@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C154C4.71E15300 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I'd like to recommend a green bean substitute that performed very well = for me in Tucson summer: black-eyed peas. These are also called cow-peas = in some parts of the country. The beauty of this bean is that you use it = for green beans first but you can also dry them. (Green beans that take = the heat of summer and are much easier to grow than conventional green = beans.) Any you leave on by mistake you can wait till they dry and save = the dried peas. The particular variety I used this year was "Tohono = O'odham: U'us mu:n." from Native Seed/Search, but I think other = varieties would work the same way. =20 jk ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C154C4.71E15300 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I'd like to recommend a = green bean=20 substitute that performed very well for me in Tucson summer: black-eyed = peas.=20 These are also called cow-peas in some parts of the country. The beauty = of this=20 bean is that you use it for green beans first but you can also dry = them. =20 (Green beans that take the heat of summer and are much easier to = grow than=20 conventional green beans.) Any you leave on by mistake you can = wait till=20 they dry and save the dried peas. The particular variety I used this year was "Tohono O'odham: = U'us mu:n."=20 from Native Seed/Search, but I think other varieties would work the same = way.

------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C154C4.71E15300-- From azgrandma2@juno.com Wed Oct 17 17:52:59 2001 From: azgrandma2@juno.com (azgrandma2@juno.com) Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 10:52:59 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110171752.f9HHqxI00540@Ag.arizona.edu> What is happening to my Habiscus? I have already lost one. The leaves shrivel andthen dropoff. I have watered it and also gave them miracle grow. Any suggestions will be appreciated. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Oct 17 18:27:38 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 18:27:38 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] pruning olive trees in fall Message-ID: You probably do not want to do any pruning now, except to remove suckers at the base of the main trunk. Here is the advice from Eric Johnson in his book, "Pruning, Planting & Care": "Avoid heavy pruning. Excssive pruning, especially in late spring through summer, can allow sun to damage trunks. Topping should be avoided -- it only creates suckers and the need to remove excess growth." Check out his book for more information. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: g_clearwater@juno.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 07:02:46 -0700 (MST) > >i have several olive trees that need to be trimmed, i would like to trim >them before winter winds and storms. is it alright to prune them now? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Oct 17 18:31:56 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 18:31:56 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] holes in citrus Message-ID: This is a fairly common problem in Tucson. Woodpeckers and flickers create the hole. As you've noticed, other creatures later appear to take advantage of the sweet juice. Locating a clean water source for woodpeckers in your yard may prevent damage. Woodpeckers will also choose to feed from hummingbird feeders if they are available. They may then leave your citrus alone, but no guarantees! Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: REmarty@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 21:10:09 -0700 (MST) > >I purchased a home in E. Mesa in 1997. For the first two years I had great >very sweet navel oranges on two very mature tree's. Since then as soon as >the oranges start to rippen the birds are drilling a hole in them. The >orange then contacts bugs and falls off the tree, the orange then is not >any good.This happens until all of the fruit is gone. >I have spoken with many people who have not heard of this. >My theory is that humming birds are doing this because of the sweetness, >and also because this happens when some of the oranges are hanging down >where this could only happen if the bird is hoovering.This happens as soon >as the orange has a little color, it does not happen when the orange is >green. >I have not seen this happening in other orange tree's. >I am at very frustrated and hope you can help me. >Thank You > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Oct 17 18:45:21 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 18:45:21 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] kill bermuda grass Message-ID: Bermuda grass is tough and persistent. Here is a recent response from an expert: You must kill the bermuda grass before you do a desert landscape or you will be in a worse situation than you are now.The only practical way to get rid of bermuda is chemically unless you want to have a four foot deep hole excavated to get rid of all the bermuda roots. then you may not have the bermuda eliminated because the dirt that is used to fill the hole may have bermuda roots in it The recommended method is to kill the bermuda and weeds with a chemical such as Roundup ( glyphosate ). If you intend to do it this fall you must start immediately because the bermuda must be actively growing. If you have been watering regularly and the bermuda is actively growing apply the chemical then wait two weeks to see if you killed it all if not then apply the chemical again. The chemical glyphosate is effective only when it hits the grass. Once it hits the ground it is no longer effective after it dries. Rod McKusick Master Gardener Be careful not to allow roundup to come in contact with plants you want to keep. It takes at least a couple of weeks to kill the bermuda so at this point you may want to just dig out as much of it as you can before planting fall crops. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: sewcool@mstar2.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 20:23:05 -0700 (MST) > >What is the best, easiest or fastest way to get rid of bermuda grass in my >vegetable/flower garden? And how do I keep it out of my garden. I have a >small garden with good drainage edged by railroad ties. It is time to get >a fall garden it and the grass has taken over. Its very difficult to pull >it out and it always grows back. I currently have some large marigold >bushes, amaryllis bulbs, and hiacynths bulbs in the garden plot. I had 6 >tomato plants that did well there until the end of July. Thanks for you >help. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Oct 17 18:52:08 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 18:52:08 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oleander Gall Message-ID: Oleander Gall is a bacterial infection. check this website for a picture of it: http://ag.arizona.edu/PLP/plpext/diseases/trees/oleander/olegall.htm Oleander gall is caused by the bacterium Pseudomonas syringae pv. savastanoi. The bacterium is systemic in the plant, and causes galls to form on flowers, leaves and stems. The bacterium must have a wound site to enter the plant, and freeze damage to flowers in early spring after a rain is a common circumstance under which infection takes place. The bacterium enters through the damaged flowers and galls form on the inflorescences (photo 1). Severe infections are most common after a cool wet spring. Bacterial gall normally will not kill the plant. Infected plant parts can be pruned, but care should be taken not to disseminate the bacterium on pruning tools. Prune infected tissue well below the infection site, at least a foot if possible, and disinfect pruners between cuts by dipping them in a 10% bleach solution (common household bleach at 1:10 dilution) for a short time (be sure to rinse the bleach off the tools when you are finished, perhaps even spray with a lubricant to avoid oxidation of the metal). >From: patty@pwyattporcelaindolls.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 17:53:36 -0700 (MST) > >What is oleander gall, and can you send me a picture of what it looks like. > I think all of my oleanders have it. It looks like a fungus, brown >knubby knots all the oleander. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From Travelhook@aol.com Wed Oct 17 21:53:27 2001 From: Travelhook@aol.com (Travelhook@aol.com) Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 17:53:27 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Caterpillars on Texas Mountain Laurel Message-ID: <25.1cd322a0.28ff57d7@aol.com> We just planted a one-gallon Texas Mountain Laurel and it seems to be doing fine after two weeks two weeks in the ground south of Tucson. However, a neighbor two houses away had several of the same species planted several months ago and small (1/2") dark caterpillars have reduced his bushes from about four-foot high to about 2-foot high. He has tried a number of insecticides without positive results. Any advice for him to eradicate the critters? Any advice for me to prevent them from moving my way? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Oct 17 22:03:59 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 18:03:59 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Caterpillars on Texas Mountain Laurel Message-ID: --part1_c.1cbf557e.28ff5a4f_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit A non chemical insecticide called " BT " should do the trick. Most nurseries will stock this product. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_c.1cbf557e.28ff5a4f_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit A non chemical insecticide called " BT " should do the trick. Most nurseries will stock this product.

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_c.1cbf557e.28ff5a4f_boundary-- From pookey@sprintmail.com Wed Oct 17 23:04:15 2001 From: pookey@sprintmail.com (pookey@sprintmail.com) Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 16:04:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110172304.f9HN4FI08714@Ag.arizona.edu> Help!!! I have 2 desert tortoises - when shall I put them to bed for the winter??? They are trying to dig out of my yard. Last year I put them into a card board box for the winter and they were quite happy - don't remember when that happened. I have only had them for a year. Don't know how old they are - a neighbor moved away and gave them to me. Zoe and Doug need your help. Thank you VERY much for channeling this question to the right party. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Oct 18 00:54:34 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 00:54:34 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] tortoises Message-ID: Tortoises are preparing to hibernate now. If you don't have a burrow prepared, you can use an insulated box such as a styrofoam ice chest packed with shredded paper or straw and covered with several layers of blankets or newspapers. Place in a cool, dry protected area such as a garage or storeroom. Keep at around 55 degrees and 30-40% humidity. For more information, contact Dr. Jarchow (520) 888-8988. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: pookey@sprintmail.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 16:04:15 -0700 (MST) > >Help!!! I have 2 desert tortoises - when shall I put them to bed for the >winter??? They are trying to dig out of my yard. Last year I put them >into a card board box for the winter and they were quite happy - don't >remember when that happened. >I have only had them for a year. Don't know how old they are - a neighbor >moved away and gave them to me. Zoe and Doug need your help. > >Thank you VERY much for channeling this question to the right party. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/ar _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu Oct 18 01:13:40 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 18:13:40 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200110172304.f9HN4FI08714@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <001d01c15772$23821360$2e53530c@j0r9501> I would take them out to a remote desert area like the KOFA Refuge and release them. I would also check with the AZ Game and Fish department for advice and whether you need a permit to keep them. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2001 4:04 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Help!!! I have 2 desert tortoises - when shall I put them to bed for the winter??? They are trying to dig out of my yard. Last year I put them into a card board box for the winter and they were quite happy - don't remember when that happened. > I have only had them for a year. Don't know how old they are - a neighbor moved away and gave them to me. Zoe and Doug need your help. > > Thank you VERY much for channeling this question to the right party. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Thu Oct 18 05:08:58 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 22:08:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Desert Tortoise care References: <200110172304.f9HN4FI08714@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BCE63EA.5A97AF@qwest.net> I enlisted the aid of some friends who have been members of the herpetological society. They gave me the following link that may be helpful to you: http://www.tortoise.org/general/descare.html Good Luck! Sue Bass Master Gardener pookey@sprintmail.com wrote: > Help!!! I have 2 desert tortoises - when shall I put them to bed for the winter??? They are trying to dig out of my yard. Last year I put them into a card board box for the winter and they were quite happy - don't remember when that happened. > I have only had them for a year. Don't know how old they are - a neighbor moved away and gave them to me. Zoe and Doug need your help. > > Thank you VERY much for channeling this question to the right party. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From joycebehrens@hotmail.com Thu Oct 18 19:42:23 2001 From: joycebehrens@hotmail.com (joycebehrens@hotmail.com) Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 12:42:23 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110181942.f9IJgNI18734@Ag.arizona.edu> My front yard has a large tree that shades the yard some what in the warm months and it looses it leaves when it is cold. I want to put a lawn in and don't know what grass to put in to deal with the sun and the shade moving in the yard. There is no su light directly below the tree . Please help with the Arizona problem. From joycebehrens@hotmail.com Thu Oct 18 19:42:46 2001 From: joycebehrens@hotmail.com (joycebehrens@hotmail.com) Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 12:42:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110181942.f9IJgkI18786@Ag.arizona.edu> My front yard has a large tree that shades the yard some what in the warm months and it looses it leaves when it is cold. I want to put a lawn in and don't know what grass to put in to deal with the sun and the shade moving in the yard. There is no su light directly below the tree . Please help with the Arizona problem. joyce From joeh@peoriaaz.com Thu Oct 18 19:59:45 2001 From: joeh@peoriaaz.com (joeh@peoriaaz.com) Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 12:59:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110181959.f9IJxjI21634@Ag.arizona.edu> Every winter I see annuals that come up profusely (self seeding) in areas that were obviously planted initially. They are + - 12-18" high, orange yellow and red individual 1 1/2" daisy -looking flowers.Not bushy,but stemmy with few leaves. They close up during the night and again at season end. The center is not as big as a sunflower and dies off once the heat starts in the late spring. Any idea what this annual may be called? From pdlopez106@aol.com Thu Oct 18 20:00:39 2001 From: pdlopez106@aol.com (pdlopez106@aol.com) Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 13:00:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110182000.f9IK0dI22044@Ag.arizona.edu> I've noticed that some of the leaves on my rose bushes dry up and wilt turning a greyish color. I started adding pellets of rose food with iron around the bushes a few weeks ago to hopefully alleviate the problem, but hasn't seemed to help much. Any suggestions much appreciated. From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Thu Oct 18 20:27:15 2001 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 13:27:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200110182000.f9IK0dI22044@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BCF3B23.FCCEB693@email.sps.mot.com> You don't mention your watering schedule, which concerns me for two reasons. One, if you fertilize before watering you risk burning the roots of your roses. Also, the leaves could be drying up because your rose bushes are not getting enough water. Please provide more info on your watering schedule. Also, over-fertilizing is another mistake commonly made. Especially several weeks ago when it was much hotter. During summer you should be fertilizing at no more than 1/2 strength. ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.gizmoaz.com Over 193 Roses and 119 different varieties! Never a dull moment!! -- Delicious Autumn! My very soul is wedded to it, and if I were a bird I would fly about the earth seeking the successive autumns. ~George Eliot pdlopez106@aol.com wrote: > > I've noticed that some of the leaves on my rose bushes dry up and wilt turning a greyish color. I started adding pellets of rose food with iron around the bushes a few weeks ago to hopefully alleviate the problem, but hasn't seemed to help much. Any suggestions much appreciated. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Oct 18 22:14:12 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 18:14:12 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf that grows in the shade Message-ID: --part1_ce.1c057928.2900ae34_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bermuda grass requires nearly full sun in order to stay healthy. Grasses that can be grown in the shade here in the low desert are tall fescue, st augustine and dichondra. However with these grasses you will not be able to over seed with rye for winter grass. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener . --part1_ce.1c057928.2900ae34_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Bermuda grass requires nearly full sun in order to stay healthy. Grasses that can be grown in the shade here in the low desert are tall fescue, st augustine and dichondra. However with these grasses you will not be able to over seed with rye for winter grass.

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener .
--part1_ce.1c057928.2900ae34_boundary-- From donsinaz@juno.com Thu Oct 18 23:45:34 2001 From: donsinaz@juno.com (donsinaz@juno.com) Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 16:45:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110182345.f9INjYI04931@Ag.arizona.edu> I know we don't need to water our palms or oleanders as often as we did this summer (once a week) but now that the weather is cooler, how often should either of these be watered and for how long? Also, we have tomatoe plansts. Do they still need watered daily? Thank You From starktddybr@aol.com Fri Oct 19 01:28:20 2001 From: starktddybr@aol.com (starktddybr@aol.com) Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 18:28:20 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110190128.f9J1SKI29691@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like to cut some large branches from a palo verde tree(cercdium desert museum). Is this a good idea and if so when? Also on same tree-is it ok to trim the ends off small branches? From azbluewaterdiver@aol.com Fri Oct 19 01:52:21 2001 From: azbluewaterdiver@aol.com (azbluewaterdiver@aol.com) Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 18:52:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110190152.f9J1qLI08343@Ag.arizona.edu> I have never had problems with insects to date attacking my grapevine until now. I think I have aphids, but am not certain. Since fall is approaching and the leaves will be falling off soon anyway, should I be concerned? I don't especially want to use any pesticides, as all of my garden is organic. Can anyone help? I live in Goodyear. From lauraweaver@cs.com Fri Oct 19 04:02:52 2001 From: lauraweaver@cs.com (lauraweaver@cs.com) Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 21:02:52 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110190402.f9J42pI18456@Ag.arizona.edu> There are white fuzzy looking blobs growing on the cacti in my yard. They don't seem to be doing the cacti any good. Any clue what they are and how to get rid of them? THanks. From jkandell@twistedclicks.com Thu Oct 18 22:14:47 2001 From: jkandell@twistedclicks.com (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 15:14:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] keeping melon plants through winter? Message-ID: <000001c1585e$2cb1bb60$2fab3604@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_002C_01C157E7.A0186620 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable My cantelope plant is only now starting to form fruits. Is there any = way to keep the plant going long enough for the fruits to come to = harvest (in Tucson)? jk ------=_NextPart_000_002C_01C157E7.A0186620 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

My cantelope plant is only now starting = to form=20 fruits. Is there any way to keep the plant going long enough for = the=20 fruits to come to harvest (in Tucson)?

------=_NextPart_000_002C_01C157E7.A0186620-- From sjbass@qwest.net Fri Oct 19 05:35:31 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 22:35:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hibiscus problems References: <200110171752.f9HHqxI00540@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BCFBBA3.2E1589B7@qwest.net> Can you give us a little more information about where your hibiscus is planted and its care? Is it planted in the ground or a pot? How much sun is it getting? How often are you watering? Thanks! Sue Bass Master Gardener azgrandma2@juno.com wrote: > What is happening to my Habiscus? I have already lost one. The leaves shrivel andthen dropoff. I have watered it and also gave them miracle grow. Any suggestions will be appreciated. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From claire_bear132@hotmail.com Fri Oct 19 09:32:37 2001 From: claire_bear132@hotmail.com (claire_bear132@hotmail.com) Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 02:32:37 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110190932.f9J9WbI24139@Ag.arizona.edu> hi! i just wanted to know what all the ladybugs body parts do like what are the feelers used for? thankx alot! Luv C. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Oct 19 13:58:11 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 13:58:11 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] basic entomology Message-ID: Hello, Claire The feelers help the ladybug sense its surroundings. Here is a web site with some basic information about insects: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/entomology/intro.html Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: claire_bear132@hotmail.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 02:32:37 -0700 (MST) > >hi! i just wanted to know what all the ladybugs body parts do like what are >the feelers used for? thankx alot! > >Luv C. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Oct 19 14:00:45 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 14:00:45 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] cochineal scale Message-ID: >Your prickly pear is probably being attacked by an insect called cochineal scale. The small red scale insect covers itself with a protective white cushiony material. Wash the protective covering and scale off the pads with a strong jet of water from the garden hose. Pads that are severely attacked can be pruned out (cut at the joint). I have also used a spray bottle filled with a teaspoon of dish liquid dissolved in the bottle of water. Spray each spot. Then rinse the whole plant off with water. This fascinating scale insect is the source of a red dye. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: lauraweaver@cs.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 21:02:52 -0700 (MST) > >There are white fuzzy looking blobs growing on the cacti in my yard. They >don't seem to be doing the cacti any good. Any clue what they are and how >to get rid of them? > >THanks. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Oct 19 14:04:00 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 14:04:00 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] grapes, insects Message-ID: The leaves will be falling soon from the grapevine. Personally, I would give the vines a spray with soapy water solution (1 teaspoon soap in a gallon of water), then rinse with a strong jet of water. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: azbluewaterdiver@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 18:52:21 -0700 (MST) > >I have never had problems with insects to date attacking my grapevine until >now. I think I have aphids, but am not certain. Since fall is approaching >and the leaves will be falling off soon anyway, should I be concerned? I >don't especially want to use any pesticides, as all of my garden is >organic. Can anyone help? I live in Goodyear. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From sbwertz@juno.com Fri Oct 19 19:59:12 2001 From: sbwertz@juno.com (sbwertz@juno.com) Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 12:59:12 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110191959.f9JJxCI19515@Ag.arizona.edu> I lost most of my naturalized bulbs to rodents last summer. When should I replant? Do I need to chill the bulbs first? I have had good success in the past with daffs, hyacinths, paperwhites, iris and glads. I had a family of some sort of small rodent move in this summer and lost almost all my bulbs before I discovered and trapped them. From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Fri Oct 19 20:32:45 2001 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 13:32:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200110191959.f9JJxCI19515@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BD08DED.C2A19FF7@email.sps.mot.com> You don't mention what part of Arizona your in. I plant most my bulbs in November. One trick I've learned from some of the gardening groups I'm in, is to plant your bulbs, surrounded by chicken wire. They state this keeps the critters away from their bulbs. I have not had problems with rodents, so I cannot verify that to be true. Hope this helps :) ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.gizmoaz.com Over 193 Roses abd 119 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! Check out the Garden Cams on Saturday and Sunday!! -- Delicious Autumn! My very soul is wedded to it, and if I were a bird I would fly about the earth seeking the successive autumns. ~George Eliot sbwertz@juno.com wrote: > I lost most of my naturalized bulbs to rodents last summer. When should I replant? Do I need to chill the bulbs first? I have had good success in the past with daffs, hyacinths, paperwhites, iris and glads. I had a family of some sort of small rodent move in this summer and lost almost all my bulbs before I discovered and trapped them. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Oct 19 22:20:39 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 18:20:39 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palo Verde, pruning Message-ID: <134.34c2153.29020137@aol.com> --part1_134.34c2153.29020137_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit There is some differences of opinion among authors as to when the best time is to prune desert adapted trees. Eric Johnson in his " Pruning, Planting and Care " recommends pruning Cercidium species in winter, whereas Mary Irish, respected author of several books covering desert plants and trees, and well known speaker recommends pruning desert legume trees in warm weather saying that winter pruning will cause limb dieback and more chance of infection. I tend to favor Mary Irish's advice because of her tremendous experience with desert plants and trees while at Desert Botanical Garden. As a Master Gardener, Arborist and professional landscape maintenance supervisor I have been required to prune desert trees at all times of year without losing a tree from pruning. Just do not prune more than 15% at one time or more than 30% in one year. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on Arborculture, section on pruning for more info, and available on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_134.34c2153.29020137_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit There is some differences of opinion among authors as to when the best time is to prune desert adapted trees. Eric Johnson in his " Pruning, Planting and Care " recommends pruning Cercidium species in winter, whereas Mary Irish, respected author of several books covering desert plants and trees, and well known speaker recommends pruning desert legume trees in warm weather saying that winter pruning will cause limb dieback and more chance of infection. I tend to favor Mary Irish's advice because of her tremendous experience with desert plants and trees while at Desert Botanical Garden.
As a Master Gardener, Arborist and professional landscape maintenance supervisor I have been required to prune desert trees at all times of year without losing a tree from pruning.
Just do not prune more than 15% at one time or more than 30% in one year.
Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on Arborculture, section on pruning for more info, and available on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/index.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_134.34c2153.29020137_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Oct 19 22:20:41 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2001 18:20:41 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Irrigation schedule for Fall Message-ID: <117.65d8c80.29020139@aol.com> --part1_117.65d8c80.29020139_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If a one week irrigation schedule was satisfactory during summer then extend the interval to 10 days for fall and two weeks for winter, but do not change the amount of water applied. Check out this site for info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_117.65d8c80.29020139_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If a one week irrigation schedule was satisfactory during summer then extend the interval to 10 days for fall and two weeks for winter, but do not change the amount of water applied.
Check out this site for info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_117.65d8c80.29020139_boundary-- From uofigrad66@hotmail.com Sat Oct 20 17:32:17 2001 From: uofigrad66@hotmail.com (uofigrad66@hotmail.com) Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 10:32:17 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110201732.f9KHWHI24835@Ag.arizona.edu> After three years my hibiscus plants began dying sequentially.The leaves turn yellow but some stems stay green. eventually they all turn yellow and the plant dies within a few weeks. I was told this was a grub and have used Spectracide insecticide with no results. I have replanted and after a few months or more the new plants die. The problem has also spread across a wide sidewalk to the other side. I do not think it is sun problem as some plants are against an east facing wall and the other are against a west facing wall. I have also cut back on water. From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Oct 20 20:53:18 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 13:53:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Agave Care References: <200110160222.f9G2MSI01155@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BD1E43D.E738733F@qwest.net> Many agaves are from higher elevations than ours, and are accustomed to some afternoon shade, occurring in the wild under 'nursery' tress that fill the bill. It sounds as if you would do well to relocate the plant. Can you share the specific name so we can do a better job of advising you? Linda Guy, MG pauliehk@aol.com wrote: > New to the desert. Recently relocated from NYC to Palm Springs, CA. > > Recently purchased very expensive variegated agave. Planted in hugh ceramic planter with catus potting soil. Gets late morning and afternoon sun. The leaves are starting to get thinner. How often should I water an agave in a planter? Please help! I want to save this beautiful plant. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Oct 20 20:54:48 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 13:54:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Yellow Traps References: Message-ID: <3BD1E498.A45E02DD@qwest.net> I have had a degree of success around container plants with this technique, but in times of heavy infestations, I've had to replace the yellow papers very, very frequently. Linda Guy, MG Edward & Jackee De Alejandro wrote: > I am having the same problem at Luke AFB.....any suggestions...anyone have > any success with the yellow paper and Vaseline? > Thanks! > > Jackee > > www.dealejandro.com > > -----Original Message----- > From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu > [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of > Marcia_A._Fredman@hud.gov > Sent: Monday, October 15, 2001 12:16 PM > To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > Help! > > I live in the southeast Gilbert area. White flies are destroying my winter > vegetable garden. I tried spraying them with dish soap/water, which didn't > help a bit. I hate to use insecticide on vegetables, but don't know > anything else to try. Any suggestions you may have are appreciated. > Thanks! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Oct 20 20:57:14 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 13:57:14 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bermuda in Vegetable Patch References: <200110091610.f99GAUS21072@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BD1E52A.34647607@qwest.net> You would do well to do the best job of eradicating the bermuda now, as it will be more difficult when your vegetables take over the plot. Most use a systemic [works on the plant's internal system] that includes an ingredient called glyphosate. It is inert in the soil. To shield adjacent plants, you can use a bottomless milk jug or other such contraption to keep the spray on the grass only. Linda Guy, Mg jrmcd64@cs.com wrote: > In my vegtable garden i have alot of bermuda grass. can i spray to kill the grass and still grow vegetables? thank you > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Oct 20 22:46:26 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 15:46:26 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Soil Amendments References: <200110150547.f9F5lII21637@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BD1FEC2.B4FD58D7@qwest.net> Organic matter is extremely limited in our soils. If you plan to plant natives, however, there shouldn't be a need to amend the soil, since they grow just fine in the 'dirt' God gave us here! Manure is one form of organic matter that can be used. Spreading it around atop the soil where it will burn up, however, will have limited benefit; better to incorporate it in the soil where it can open and aerate compacted areas. Always let it decompose further [a few weeks] before planting to avoid burning your new specimens. Discussions of soil care are in the relevant section of our pubs list at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm and the Master Gardener Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ Good luck! Linda Guy, MG menuccibob@qwest.net wrote: > Hi, thanks for taking the time for me. First of all, I live in Norh Central Phoenix around the Deer Valley Airport (I forgot to tell you that last time). I have places around my home where evan weeds won't grow. For instance, the small 2'X 6' area infront of my picture windows (facing East). Early in summer, a friend gave me a big garbage bag of some horse manure, and I spread some of that there, but is there something else I should or could do? Then, should I treat the diferent exposures around my home differently? > Finally I just want to say you folks provide a terrific service for a novice like me, so thanks! > Bob Menucci > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From jkandell@twistedclicks.com Sun Oct 21 00:13:55 2001 From: jkandell@twistedclicks.com (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 17:13:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Soil Amendments References: <200110150547.f9F5lII21637@Ag.arizona.edu> <3BD1FEC2.B4FD58D7@qwest.net> Message-ID: <004c01c159c8$3ad73c40$d3a20404@oemcomputer> You want to add as much organic matter there as you can over time and the soil will soon grow things. The manure's great, work it into the soil as deep as you can. Add compost, or if you're willing to be patient, throw vegetable refuse there. Add coffee grounds. Add any dead leaves and dead weeds you rake up or chop. (Be careful not to add live bermuda grass.) Use neighbor's organic refuse if you must. You soon will have a soil you can grow in. jk ----- Original Message ----- > > > Hi, thanks for taking the time for me. First of all, I live in Norh Central Phoenix around the Deer Valley Airport (I forgot to tell you that last time). I have places around my home where evan weeds won't grow. For instance, the small 2'X 6' area infront of my picture windows (facing East). Early in summer, a friend gave me a big garbage bag of some horse manure, and I spread some of that there, but is there something else I should or could do? Then, should I treat the diferent exposures around my home differently? > > Finally I just want to say you folks provide a terrific service for a novice like me, so thanks! > > Bob Menucci > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From maryam770@yahoo.com Sun Oct 21 01:46:29 2001 From: maryam770@yahoo.com (maryam abacha) Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 18:46:29 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] please help me .............. Message-ID: <20011021014629.60194.qmail@web14708.mail.yahoo.com> ATTN; I am Hajia Maryam Abacha, widow of the Late Gen. Sani Abacha former Nigerian Military Head of State who died as a result of cardiac arrest. The name of you company appeared in one of our directories as one of the companies my late husband wanted to do businesswith before he died. I therefore decided to contact you in confidence so that I can be able to move out the sum of US$35,760,000.00 ( Thirty Five Million Seven hundred and Sixty Thousand U. S. Dollars ) which was secretly defaced and seal in big metal box for security reasons in your account. I personally therefore appeal to you for your urgent assistance to move this money into your country where I believe it will be safe since I cannot leave the country due to the restriction of movement imposed on me and members of my family by the Nigerian government. You can contact me through . or my family lawyer . Upon the receipt of your acceptance to assist me, my lawyer shall arrange with you for a face to face meeting outside Nigeria in order to liaise with him towards the effective completion of this transaction. However, arrangement has been put in place to move this money out of the country in batches in a secret vault through a diplomatic security company to any of the European country as soon as you indicate your interest. I also want you to be assured that all necessary arrangement for the hitch-free of thistransaction has been concluded. Conclusively, I have decided to offer you 25% of the total sum 5% will be for whatever expenses that will be incurred, while 70% is to be used in buying share in your company subsequent to our free movement by theNigerian government. Please reply urgently and treat with absoluteconfidentiality and sincerity. Best regards, HAJIA M. ABACHAc/o Ba __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals. http://personals.yahoo.com From dealejandro_family@yahoo.com Sun Oct 21 02:12:22 2001 From: dealejandro_family@yahoo.com (Edward & Jackee De Alejandro) Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 19:12:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] please help me .............. In-Reply-To: <20011021014629.60194.qmail@web14708.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: guys this is a fraud...please don't respond...Thanks Jackee www.dealejandro.com -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of maryam abacha Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2001 6:46 PM To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] please help me .............. ATTN; I am Hajia Maryam Abacha, widow of the Late Gen. Sani Abacha former Nigerian Military Head of State who died as a result of cardiac arrest. The name of you company appeared in one of our directories as one of the companies my late husband wanted to do businesswith before he died. I therefore decided to contact you in confidence so that I can be able to move out the sum of US$35,760,000.00 ( Thirty Five Million Seven hundred and Sixty Thousand U. S. Dollars ) which was secretly defaced and seal in big metal box for security reasons in your account. I personally therefore appeal to you for your urgent assistance to move this money into your country where I believe it will be safe since I cannot leave the country due to the restriction of movement imposed on me and members of my family by the Nigerian government. You can contact me through . or my family lawyer . Upon the receipt of your acceptance to assist me, my lawyer shall arrange with you for a face to face meeting outside Nigeria in order to liaise with him towards the effective completion of this transaction. However, arrangement has been put in place to move this money out of the country in batches in a secret vault through a diplomatic security company to any of the European country as soon as you indicate your interest. I also want you to be assured that all necessary arrangement for the hitch-free of thistransaction has been concluded. Conclusively, I have decided to offer you 25% of the total sum 5% will be for whatever expenses that will be incurred, while 70% is to be used in buying share in your company subsequent to our free movement by theNigerian government. Please reply urgently and treat with absoluteconfidentiality and sincerity. Best regards, HAJIA M. ABACHAc/o Ba __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals. http://personals.yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Consultants@cgt-consult.com Sat Oct 20 21:15:07 2001 From: Consultants@cgt-consult.com (Consultants) Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 14:15:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] IT Consultants Message-ID: <5BF0CCEFD5ABD41197E5004854851A0802726760@CGTSRVR> This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C159AC.4F203AA6 Content-Type: text/plain Hi there, CGT Consulting is one of the leading Computer Consulting Companies. We have been in the IT consulting arena for over 4 Years, providing Contract, Contract-to-Hire and permanent IT candidates. We also take on projects, which can be developed on-site, offsite or offshore. Our Consultants have experience / skills in (just a partial list): E-Commerce/WEB/JAVA/CGI/HTML, ERP's, CRM's, Oracle, Sybase, Microsoft SQL Server, Informix, Visual Basic, C++, VC++, SAP, PeopleSoft, Siebel, Tibco, Clarify, DBA's (Oracle, Sybase, Informix, ... etc), System Administrators (HP-UX, Sun Solaris, AIX, Linux, ... etc), AS-400, HP3000, Cobol, Delphi, Foxpro, Progress, Lotus Notes administration and development, Embedded Software, ASIC Engineers, Device Drivers, ASIC, Telecom engineers, ... etc. We only submit pre-screened and only the VERY Qualified candidates, based on your requirements, to you; thus saving you valuable time! All the candidates are submitted to you, at very competitive rates. We work with Clients across the country and are currently providing them with IT Resources, on a Contract, Contract-to-hire or Permanent basis. Can I help you with any of your current IT openings, (Contract or permanent)? If so, please contact me either via email or phone at 714-572-1055. Try us once, with the 2 weeks guarantee, at no cost to you, and see what we can do for you! On most consulting assignments, we are also able to offer either a 1 or 2 week trial, at no cost to you. Thank you. Naren Mistry Account Manager - Tel: 714-572-1055 consultants@cgt-consult.com www.cgt-consult.com Anti-SPAM Policy Disclaimer: mailto:consultants@cgt-consult.com?subject=REMOVE-CGT-IT-CONSULTANTS Under Bill s.1618 Title III passed by the 105th U. S. Congress, mail cannot be considered spam as long as we include contact information and a remove link for removal from our mailing list. If this e-mail is unsolicited, please accept our apologies and click on the following removal link: mailto:Consultants@cgt-consult.com?subject=REMOVE-CGT-IT-CONSULTANTS or reply back with REMOVE in the SUBJECT with this email address: Arid_Gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu ------_=_NextPart_001_01C159AC.4F203AA6 Content-Type: text/html Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable IT Consultants

Hi there,

CGT Consulting is one of the leading Computer = Consulting Companies. We have been in the IT consulting arena for over = 4 Years, providing Contract, Contract-to-Hire and permanent IT = candidates. We also take on projects, which can be developed on-site, = offsite or offshore.

Our Consultants have experience / skills in (just a = partial list):
E-Commerce/WEB/JAVA/CGI/HTML, ERP's, CRM's, Oracle, = Sybase, Microsoft SQL Server, Informix, Visual Basic, C++, VC++, SAP, = PeopleSoft, Siebel, Tibco, Clarify, DBA's (Oracle, Sybase, Informix, = ... etc), System Administrators (HP-UX, Sun Solaris, AIX, Linux, ... = etc), AS-400, HP3000, Cobol, Delphi, Foxpro, Progress, Lotus Notes = administration and development, Embedded Software, ASIC Engineers, = Device Drivers, ASIC, Telecom engineers, ... etc.

We only submit pre-screened and only the VERY = Qualified candidates, based on your requirements, to you; thus saving = you valuable time! All the candidates are submitted to you, at very = competitive rates.

We work with Clients across the country and are = currently providing them with IT Resources, on a Contract, = Contract-to-hire or Permanent basis.

Can I help you with any of your current IT openings, = (Contract or permanent)? If so, please contact me either via email or = phone at 714-572-1055.

Try us once, with the 2 weeks guarantee, at no cost = to you, and see what we can do for you! On most consulting assignments, = we are also able to offer either a 1 or 2 week trial, at no cost to = you.

Thank you.

Naren Mistry
Account Manager - Tel: 714-572-1055
consultants@cgt-consult.com
www.cgt-consult.com

Anti-SPAM Policy Disclaimer:
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Under Bill s.1618 Title III passed by the 105th U. = S. Congress, mail cannot be considered spam as long as we include = contact information and a remove link for removal from our mailing = list. If this e-mail is unsolicited, please accept our apologies and = click on the following removal link: mailto:Consultants@cgt-consult.com?subject=3DREMOVE-CGT-IT-CONSU= LTANTS or reply back with REMOVE in the SUBJECT with this email = address: Arid_Gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu

------_=_NextPart_001_01C159AC.4F203AA6-- From robward@excite.com Mon Oct 22 15:56:13 2001 From: robward@excite.com (robward@excite.com) Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 08:56:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110221556.f9MFuDT18004@Ag.arizona.edu> I want to try Buffalograss and I live in Phoenix. Is this practical or more to the point, possible? From Karen.Blum@phoenix.edu Mon Oct 22 16:53:16 2001 From: Karen.Blum@phoenix.edu (Karen Blum) Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 09:53:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Problem planting spot Message-ID: Hi there--I have a very difficult spot I am trying to plant (I live in Gilbert). It is a South wall, that I am planting on the North side. I have outlined the space below and noted where I have existing plants. There are three small mounds, and the issue is in the summer they get full sun (the sun is higher in the sky so there is no shadow from the wall to shade). In the winter they are full shade (sun lower and creates a shadow from the wall). The 3rd mound gets some shade in late day from the tree. Mound 1 is 43 deep and 57 wide Mound 2 is 48 deep and 53 wide Mound 3 is 42 deep and 38 wide I am trying to do evergreen shrubs (rather than cacti or annuals--I am open to accenting with cacti/agave etc.) I am trying for all season color (something blooming year round). I have looked up plants that take full sun, but are sometimes listed as tolerating shade. This is what I have so far: Mound 1 (trying to do a yellow flower): Creosote Bush OR, feathery cassia, OR, Yellow bird of paradise (would also like to do a few ground covers to accent) Mound 2 (trying for a deep purple): Wooly blue curls, OR potato vine/shrub form, OR Pea Bush (would like to accent with ground covers, agave etc.) Mound 3 (trying for a true red--not orange): Chuparosa, OR Kangaroo Paw, OR Bat faced cuphea I was thinking of using Penstemon and Salvia Greggi (autumn sage) as an accent plant between mound 1 and 2, planted to the left of mound 2 in hopes that the shrub on mound 2 will partially shade the Salvia. Will any of these work---any other suggestions? S 6 ft. Wall | Want to Plant here N Hibiscus (coral Red) Mound 1 Mound 2 Mound 3 Shamel Ash Rosemary Bougianvilla--purples/fuschia ---------------Grass-------------------------------------- Please advise---thank you in advance, Karen Blum kjblum@apollogrp.edu Karen Blum Director of Apollo Financial Services Oversight (AFSO) Apollo Group Inc. 480-557-1191 480-929-7378 (fax) kjblum@apollogrp.edu From azdaveaim@peoplepc.com Mon Oct 22 21:26:44 2001 From: azdaveaim@peoplepc.com (azdaveaim@peoplepc.com) Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 14:26:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110222126.f9MLQiT03288@Ag.arizona.edu> Look for the sites which will have the evpo-tanspiration rates list for the days. I thought it was AZMat.com but I can't find it From millero@worldnet.att.net Mon Oct 22 22:17:12 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 15:17:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: AZMET References: <200110222126.f9MLQiT03288@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000c01c15b47$50bc2e00$6452530c@j0r9501> http://ag.arizona.edu/AZMET/ ----- Original Message ----- > Look for the sites which will have the evpo-tanspiration rates list for the days. I thought it was AZMat.com but I can't find it From pltaylor@concentric.net Tue Oct 23 00:23:12 2001 From: pltaylor@concentric.net (Pat L Taylor) Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 17:23:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oleander Gall Message-ID: <006901c15b58$ebe53000$eea8b0d0@concentric.net> My oleanders are all developing gall. My inquiries into gall from A & P Nursery suggested that it is an airborne fungus and there is nothing I can do. If it is necessary to replace them, will it affect other plants. What can I do to prevent this from happening and what causes it? Thank you. From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Oct 23 00:51:47 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2001 17:51:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oleander Gall References: <006901c15b58$ebe53000$eea8b0d0@concentric.net> Message-ID: <3BD4BF23.EA7231DC@qwest.net> There is a recommended method for treatment at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/olndr-gl.htm Linda Guy, MG Pat L Taylor wrote: > My oleanders are all developing gall. My inquiries into gall from A & P > Nursery suggested that it is an airborne fungus and there is nothing I can > do. If it is necessary to replace them, will it affect other plants. What > can I do to prevent this from happening and what causes it? Thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From dfeehan@cci-msc.com Tue Oct 23 15:22:37 2001 From: dfeehan@cci-msc.com (dfeehan@cci-msc.com) Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 08:22:37 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110231522.f9NFMbT08530@Ag.arizona.edu> I received a Crassula lycopodioides, called the "watch chain plant",as a gift. It was purchased at the Phx Botanical Garden Plant sale. How do I take care of it? Outside /inside ? Shade / sun ? Water ? It is in a hanging pot at this time. any care info would be be a real help. Thank you. From kasko@teneyckla.com Tue Oct 23 16:59:10 2001 From: kasko@teneyckla.com (Joanne Kasko) Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 09:59:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200110231522.f9NFMbT08530@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Check out this site: http://www.desert-tropicals.com/Plants/Crassulaceae/Crassula_lycopodioides.h tml -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of dfeehan@cci-msc.com Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2001 8:23 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I received a Crassula lycopodioides, called the "watch chain plant",as a gift. It was purchased at the Phx Botanical Garden Plant sale. How do I take care of it? Outside /inside ? Shade / sun ? Water ? It is in a hanging pot at this time. any care info would be be a real help. Thank you. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Oct 23 17:57:50 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 10:57:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ant Control References: <200110151613.f9FGDwI29078@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BD5AF9E.689BDCF4@qwest.net> Here are some references to the UA's Integrated Pest Management website. http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/insects/ants/ants.html http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/insects/ants/carpenterants.html http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/insects/ants/southernfireants.html I hope you find these helpful. Linda Guy, MG msmike@aol.com wrote: > I have an area in my back yard (facing south) where the plants keep dying. There have been a number of ant hills in the area which have been treated on the surface. This morning I was going to dig out the juniper plants and try something new. When digging into the area surrounding the root ball, the soil underneath the surface is crawling with ants. Of course, I'm now reluctant to plant my new plants. In the past, I've removed plants, treated and replanted, but always end up with the same results. Please advise if there is anything longlasting I can do myself or if it would be advantageous to hire an exterminator. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Oct 23 18:06:21 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 11:06:21 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Butterflies/Passion Flower References: <3BCB25F6.5631BF78@NetZero.net> Message-ID: <3BD5B19D.9F712B9D@qwest.net> --------------FB9B8B2AC26C21F9BB3B9F0D Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I don't recall seeing a reply to your question... though I'm not exactly sure what you are asking of us.You have discovered that the passion flower is like a candy store to this butterfly. You can spray with Bt to eliminate the caterpillars, but this doesn't seem to be your objective. My experience with passion flower vines are that they are deciduous and begin to dry up and drop leaves just about this time. If, and that's a big if, they've made it through the summer without being eaten to core by the caterpillars. I stopped growing them because, even with Bt, I always seemed to lose the battle! I've read that not all passionflowers are deciduous and perhaps that is the case with yours. Linda Guy, MG Jackie and Bill Harrell wrote: > Dear Master Gardeners, > > My passion flower vine has run wild because I haven't been able to tend > my garden for months. As I contemplate how to deal with the resulting > bramble which extends over several square yards, I see a couple hundred > caterpillars in there in various stages of metamorphasizing (sp?). And > there are dozens of Gulf Fritillaries butterflies flying (I call them > Jeffies because of the G.F. initials). > > My problem is, how can I tear down their homeland - how does one go > about this and not destroy both the caterpillars and the butterflies > who, I think, continue to feast on the passion flower vine? And do they > need water provided, like in a bird bath or something? Is there a > season for them which I could wait out? I'm beginning to think the vine > itself never dies here in the Valley! > > Help - my bramble grows even as we speak! > > Sincerely, Jackie Harrell > ---------------------------------------------------- > Sign Up for NetZero Platinum Today > Only $9.95 per month! > http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97 > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener --------------FB9B8B2AC26C21F9BB3B9F0D Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I don't recall seeing a reply to your question... though I'm not exactly sure what you are asking of us.You have discovered that the passion flower is like a candy store to this butterfly. You can spray with Bt to eliminate the caterpillars, but this doesn't seem to be your objective. My experience with passion flower vines are that they are deciduous and begin to dry up and drop leaves just about this time. If, and that's a big if, they've made it through the summer without being eaten to core by the caterpillars. I stopped growing them because, even with Bt, I always seemed to lose the battle!

I've read that not all passionflowers are deciduous and perhaps that is the case with yours.

Linda Guy, MG

Jackie and Bill Harrell wrote:

Dear Master Gardeners,
        My passion flower vine has run wild because I haven't been able to tend
my garden for months. As I contemplate how to deal with the resulting
bramble which extends over several square yards, I see a couple hundred
caterpillars in there in various stages of metamorphasizing (sp?). And
there are dozens of Gulf Fritillaries butterflies flying (I call them
Jeffies because of the G.F. initials).
        My problem is, how can I tear down their homeland - how does one go
about this and not destroy both the caterpillars and the butterflies
who, I think, continue to feast on the passion flower vine? And do they
need water provided, like in a bird bath or something? Is there a
season for them which I could wait out? I'm beginning to think the vine
itself never dies here in the Valley!
        Help - my bramble grows even as we speak!
                        Sincerely, Jackie Harrell
----------------------------------------------------
Sign Up for NetZero Platinum Today
Only $9.95 per month!
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--------------FB9B8B2AC26C21F9BB3B9F0D-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Oct 23 18:16:19 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 11:16:19 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lemon production References: <200110101944.f9AJiXI02566@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BD5B3F2.12926AE5@qwest.net> We do not recommend pruning citrus, except to remove dead wood, crossing branches and generally maintain a pleasing shape. If what you are referring to is actually a variety of lemon tree, and you wish to increase yields, you should look, instead, to your cultural [watering and fertilization] practices. Good publications on the topic can be had at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#top in the citrus section. Linda Guy, MG rodgerrung@aol.com wrote: > I have a Lemon bush, it has grown to over 10 ft high, it has been in ground for 3yrs and I have about 6 lemons on it and are set on lower part of bush. I am hoping for more lemons to set next year but I think it is getting to high, do you recommend cutting to lower hieght? if so what are your recommendations. > > Thanks, Rodger > Gilbert,Az > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Oct 23 18:23:44 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 11:23:44 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plant selection References: <200110110112.f9B1CMI29901@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BD5B5B0.79C6D488@qwest.net> Although they wouldn't be considered privacy shrubs, the following grow well in similar spots at my home. Dicliptera resupinata http://www.desert-tropicals.com/Plants/Acanthaceae/Dicliptera_resupinata.html Mexican Bush Sage http://www.desert-tropicals.com/Plants/Lamiaceae/Salvia_leucantha.html Justicia ovata [or candicans], a bit more frost sensitive http://www.desert-tropicals.com/Plants/Acanthaceae/Justicia_ovata.html Chihuahan sage http://www.desert-tropicals.com/Plants/Scrophulariaceae/Leucophyllum_laevigatum.html Linda Guy, MG cesherm@webtv.net wrote: > Most people seem to have this problem but no one knows. What can you plant on a section of patio that gets full sun in summer and full shade in winter--preferably a privacy shrub type plant (but not oleander). Thanks much for any advice. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Oct 23 18:57:27 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 11:57:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plant ID References: <200110181959.f9IJxjI21634@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BD5BD96.74314314@qwest.net> Could it be the African daisy? They are all over sections of downtown Scottsdale. http://www.desert-tropicals.com/Plants/Asteraceae/Dimorphotheca_sinuata.html It is not native, yet as you noted, is very well adapted. It has the potential for becoming a nuisance or pest plant because it does reseed so easily; it is beginning to drift out of urban areas and into the wild. If you are interested in planting wildflowers, we'd probably suggest an Arizona native instead. Linda Guy, MG joeh@peoriaaz.com wrote: > Every winter I see annuals that come up profusely (self seeding) in areas that were obviously planted initially. They are + - 12-18" high, orange yellow and red individual 1 1/2" daisy -looking flowers.Not bushy,but stemmy with few leaves. They close up during the night and again at season end. The center is not as big as a sunflower and dies off once the heat starts in the late spring. Any idea what this annual may be called? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Oct 23 18:59:38 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 11:59:38 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Buffalograss in Phoenix References: <200110221556.f9MFuDT18004@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BD5BE1A.C7D9D1E3@qwest.net> Recommended planting time is May, June and July. Check out the chapter on lawns in the Master Gardener Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html Linda Guy, MG robward@excite.com wrote: > I want to try Buffalograss and I live in Phoenix. Is this practical or more to the point, possible? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From yindebbie@qwest.net Tue Oct 23 20:57:07 2001 From: yindebbie@qwest.net (debbieyin) Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 13:57:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Chilean Mesquite tree Message-ID: <3BD5D9A2.4CC13635@qwest.net> We have 2 chilean mesquite trees in our front yard. Both were planted in Feb. 2000. One is doing beautifully, but the other started losing it's green needle like leaves (don't know what else to call the greenery) in one section. In addition, that same area also was turning yellow before they fell. Any suggestions would be appreciated. We don't see any pin size holes in the trunk or limbs and my husband dug at the base of the tree to look for worms. Thanks, Debbie Yin From jkandell@twistedclicks.com Tue Oct 23 21:20:55 2001 From: jkandell@twistedclicks.com (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 14:20:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] good cover crops? Message-ID: <007001c15c08$a2805e20$e2a10404@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_006B_01C15BCD.ED5B6E20 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable What are good "cover crops" for arid climates with alkaline soils? We = have a patch of land we want to turn into soil. I've been thinking = buckwheat and lupines. Do Vetch, Clover work in arid climates? jk ------=_NextPart_000_006B_01C15BCD.ED5B6E20 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

What are good "cover crops" for arid = climates with=20 alkaline soils? We have a patch of land we want to turn into = soil. =20 I've been thinking buckwheat and lupines. Do Vetch, Clover work in = arid=20 climates?

------=_NextPart_000_006B_01C15BCD.ED5B6E20-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Oct 24 00:28:17 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 20:28:17 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Chilean Mesquite tree Message-ID: <5a.919036.29076521@aol.com> --part1_5a.919036.29076521_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Debbie, A stress condition will often cause a tree to drop its leaves, and since this happened in the summer I would suspect a lack of adequate irrigation. Deep water that tree and if it hasn't gone too far should come back. Check out this site which has info on proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_5a.919036.29076521_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Debbie,

A stress condition will often cause a tree to drop its leaves, and since this happened in the summer I would suspect a lack of adequate irrigation. Deep water that tree and if it hasn't gone too far should come back.

Check out this site which has info on proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_5a.919036.29076521_boundary-- From tajmahal@qwest.net Wed Oct 24 05:10:47 2001 From: tajmahal@qwest.net (tajmahal@qwest.net) Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 22:10:47 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110240510.f9O5AlT27057@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like to know when you can transplant tomato plants in Arizona? Is it only during certain months or can you do it all year with proper protection? I have plants ready now (late October) and I am reading that Feb/Mar are the times to plant, but I see plants in the garden centers being sold now... From tajmahal@qwest.net Wed Oct 24 05:11:43 2001 From: tajmahal@qwest.net (tajmahal@qwest.net) Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 22:11:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110240511.f9O5BhT27167@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like to know when you can transplant tomato plants in Arizona? Is it only during certain months or can you do it all year with proper protection? I have plants ready now (late October) and I am reading that Feb/Mar are the times to plant, but I see plants in the garden centers being sold now... From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Oct 24 06:50:45 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 23:50:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Time to Transplant Tomatoes References: <200110240511.f9O5BhT27167@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <001201c15c58$3801bd00$0551530c@j0r9501> The time to plant tomatoes should be based on having the plants in full bloom at the time the temperatures are in the 55 - 95 degree range. In the low desert, right now is the time for fruit set for a fall crop. This usually means setting the plants out before the end of August. If the plants are set out now, depending on the growth stage of the plant, it will be a bit too cool after about mid November and you may need to wait until spring before the plants will bloom again and set fruit. Occasional frost protection may be required during the winter months. The spring February/March recommendations are based on getting blossom set before the summer temperatures reach the mid 90s. The blossoms of some varieties are more tolerant of cold temperatures and others are more tolerant of the hot temperatures. But as general rule, timing the planting such that full bloom occurs when nighttime lows are above 55 degrees and daytime highs are below 95 degrees will give the best results. Olin Miller ----- Original Message ----- From: > I would like to know when you can transplant tomato plants in Arizona? Is it only during certain months or can you do it all year with proper protection? > I have plants ready now (late October) and I am reading that Feb/Mar are the times to plant, but I see plants in the garden centers being sold now... From jellissq@earthlink.net Wed Oct 24 15:24:18 2001 From: jellissq@earthlink.net (jellissq@earthlink.net) Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 08:24:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110241524.f9OFOIT11528@Ag.arizona.edu> Hi Folks, I am a new resident to the valley and have been here 7 months and have completed my landscaping. Basically, my front yard is Mesquite trees, Lantana, Desert Spoons, Bougainvilleas and Mexican Bird of Paradise and Upright Rosemary(Purgatory). My back yard consist of Queen Palms, Dwarf Oleanders, some Ficus trees, Acacia trees a few citrus trees and Bougainvilleas. Everything is doing fine except my upright Rosemary bushes. They have not grown much and tend to be a little gray/green in color. I do not know what to fertilize them with or how much water they need. So my questions are as follows: I am confused about watering in the valley. During the hot months I was watering the front everyday except Friday at a rate of 15 minutes for the front and 20 minutes for the back. Last week I changed this to a winter watering schedule of 45 minutes watering time every five days. Is this sufficient, correct or incorrect? What are your recommended watering times or schedules? Thank You. John F. Ellis 25049 North 43rd Drive Glendale, AZ. 85310 Email jellissq@earthlink.net From hojo60@worldnet.att.net Thu Oct 25 00:02:04 2001 From: hojo60@worldnet.att.net (hojo60@worldnet.att.net) Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 17:02:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110250002.f9P024T00544@Ag.arizona.edu> I have burmudagrass (turf-type) MAJESTIC, is that overseeded with rye like regular burmuda. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Oct 25 00:18:18 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 20:18:18 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Pinus Roxbughii Message-ID: --part1_b9.15a937af.2908b44a_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit This pine can be a hugh tree growing up to 150 feet tall, is recommended for the middle and high zones, definitely not for the low desert. Needles are in bundles of three and up to 12 inches long, cones 4 to 7 inches long. It is similiar to the Canary Island Pine but more cold hardy, is a moderate to fast grower. The origin is the Himalayan foothills. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_b9.15a937af.2908b44a_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit This pine can be a hugh tree growing up to 150 feet tall, is recommended for the middle and high zones, definitely not for the low desert. Needles are in bundles of three and up to 12 inches long, cones 4 to 7 inches long. It is similiar to the Canary Island Pine but more cold hardy, is a moderate to fast grower. The origin is the Himalayan foothills.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener

--part1_b9.15a937af.2908b44a_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Oct 25 00:18:21 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 20:18:21 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Irrigation info Message-ID: --part1_fe.e10e32e.2908b44d_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit John, Welcome to the desert, if you came from back east I hope that you have discovered that growing plants and trees here is a different ballgame, and learning how to water your plants is a must. The 15 minutes a day every day is not going to cut it. You must think DEEP WATER. Yes the landscaper or the nursery told you to water every day after the plants were planted. After two weeks time the irrigation interval should be extended gradually to once per week and the watering time increased so that the water was penetrating to two feet deep for shrubs and three feet deep for trees. Most of the trees and shrubs that you listed are quite drought tolerant once they have become established, the exception being the ficus, citrus, queen palms and rosemary. The bougainvillea and red birds will have more color if they are not over watered. My suggestion to you is to purchase a book that tells you how, "Desert Landscaping for the Beginner" just off the press is such a book and for $16.00 is a bargain. Written by several Master Gardeners, it fills a nitche where nothing else is available. It is new enough that it is not widely available, but can be purchased from the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040. Check out this site for great info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_fe.e10e32e.2908b44d_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit John,

Welcome to the desert, if you came from back east I hope that you have discovered that growing plants and trees here is a different ballgame, and learning how to water your plants is a must. The 15 minutes a day every day is not going to cut it. You must think DEEP WATER. Yes the landscaper or the nursery told you to water every day after the plants were planted. After two weeks time the irrigation interval should be extended gradually to once per week and the watering time increased so that the water was penetrating to two feet deep for shrubs and three feet deep for trees.
Most of the trees and shrubs that you listed are quite drought tolerant once they have become established, the exception being the ficus, citrus, queen palms and rosemary. The bougainvillea and red birds will have more color if they are not over watered.
My suggestion to you is to purchase a book that tells you how, "Desert Landscaping for the Beginner" just off the press is such a book and for $16.00 is a bargain. Written by several Master Gardeners, it fills a nitche where nothing else is available. It is new enough that it is not widely available, but can be purchased from the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040.
Check out this site for great info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
--part1_fe.e10e32e.2908b44d_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Oct 25 00:18:31 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 20:18:31 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Eucalyptus Trees Message-ID: --part1_de.1c6d952c.2908b457_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jack I was not able to bring up the photos that you put on line so I don't know what species of eucalyptus you have. Sorry to hear that your eucs are dying, this has been a hot summer and many people have lost trees and usually the cause is inadequate irrigation. Seeing new green growth is a good sign, but you must deep water the entire root zone which is probably quite large, this time of year biweekly would be adequate, but the water must penetrate to plus three feet. All the trees should receive water. Dead branches should be removed so as not to create a hazzard. Check out this site for info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_de.1c6d952c.2908b457_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jack

I was not able to bring up the photos that you put on line so I don't know what species of eucalyptus you have.
Sorry to hear that your eucs are dying, this has been a hot summer and many people have lost trees and usually the cause is inadequate irrigation.
Seeing new green growth is a good sign, but you must deep water the entire root zone which is probably quite large, this time of year biweekly would be adequate, but the water must penetrate to plus three feet. All the trees should receive water.
Dead branches should be removed so as not to create a hazzard.
Check out this site for info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_de.1c6d952c.2908b457_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Oct 25 00:23:09 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 20:23:09 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bermuda, overseeding Message-ID: <7b.1d19aa2e.2908b56d@aol.com> --part1_7b.1d19aa2e.2908b56d_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Yes, now is the time to overseed bermuda with rye grass, but you must do it right away while the temps are still warm enough to sprout seed. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_7b.1d19aa2e.2908b56d_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Yes, now is the time to overseed bermuda with rye grass, but you must do it right away while the temps are still warm enough to sprout seed.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener

--part1_7b.1d19aa2e.2908b56d_boundary-- From belind@az.rmci.net Thu Oct 25 19:31:57 2001 From: belind@az.rmci.net (belind@az.rmci.net) Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 12:31:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110251931.f9PJVvT00723@Ag.arizona.edu> I winter in the valley from first part of October to the first part of May and would like to know when the best time would be to plant roses. Also what are good plants for that time of year to look nice. We own our home so it would be planted in the yard not in pots. Also would need to be low maintence. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Oct 25 23:36:52 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 19:36:52 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rose planting time Message-ID: <8b.e3491c4.2909fc14@aol.com> --part1_8b.e3491c4.2909fc14_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit January is the time to plant roses if you plant bare root, if you plant potted roses you can plant any time except the hot summer months. If you planted potted roses now they will give you a nearly continuous bloom until you leave in May. Next year they should be pruned in January. As for color now the winter annuals that you are familiar with in the summer, if you are from a climate farther north, would be a great choice and now is the planting time for plants already started. Among the choices you have are pansies,petunias, snapdraggons, stock, alyssium, dianthas, and many more plus lots of bulbs. Visit a nursery and enjoy the great color display. I'm enclosing a copy of an article that I coauthored for the Republic Newspaper not long ago on planting roses. Good luck. December and January is an exciting time of year for rose lovers, second only to the spring and fall blooming time. The nurseries will be receiving their new stock of roses in mid December, and we rosarians all look forward with anticipation the new rose varieties. For the best selection of varieties don't delay. If you wait until late January you may have trouble finding that favorite rose. You have three options as to where to buy roses: 1. Nurseries, 2. Mail order, 3. Discounters. There is also the option of buying either bare root or potted. My preference is to buy bare root from a nursery that stores the roses in a sawdust bin. The roots of roses stored in a sawdust bin can be examined, and if you don't like the appearance of the roots you don't have to buy. With a packaged rose you don't have that option. After the middle of February my preference is to buy potted roses because they have already started the rooting process, and the chances of survival are much better. If you are unable to find the variety wanted locally, then your only option is mail order.If the mail order option is used, again be sure and order early, not only for the best selection, but you won't want bare root roses shipped to the Phoenix area in March. It's time to plant.Dig the hole a month before you plant if possible, replace the soil with amendments and soak well. Do not put fertilizer in the planting hole at this time. Most rose books recommend a planting hole of at least 18 x 18 inches. My recommendation is to make the planting hole 30 x 30 inches, and especially if the soil is dense clay as is found in most of Maricopa county. If you have much caliche your options are to either dig out the caliche or to build raised beds. It's now planting time. Soak the bare root roses over night in water;dig out some of the planting mix, form a cone,spread the rose roots on the cone with the bud graft 2 inches above grade, backfill and water in well. To keep the canes from drying out mound up either the planting mix or mulch around the canes. January is the time to prune roses for those of you who already have them in your garden. Basically cut your hybred teas, florabundas, and minatures back from 1/3 to 1/2 depending on the size; cut out the dead wood, and strip off all the leaves and clean up around the bush. It is always helpful to attend one of the pruning demonstrations held in public rose gardens by most of the rose societies in the valley. Watch the Saturday newspapers home section for time and place. Have problems with roses or have questions to be answered, call the Master Gardner hot line or talk to one of the many Master Gardner Consulting Rosarians. Rod McKusick, Master Gardner and Consulting Rosarian Marylou Coffman, Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian --part1_8b.e3491c4.2909fc14_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit January is the time to plant roses if you plant bare root, if you plant potted roses you can plant any time except the hot summer months. If you planted potted roses now they will give you a nearly continuous bloom until you leave in May. Next year they should be pruned in January.
As for color now the winter annuals that you are familiar with in the summer, if you are from a climate farther north, would be a great choice and now is the planting time for plants already started. Among the choices you have are pansies,petunias, snapdraggons, stock, alyssium, dianthas, and many more plus lots of bulbs. Visit a nursery and enjoy the great color display.
I'm enclosing a copy of an article that I coauthored for the Republic Newspaper not long ago on planting roses.

Good luck.

December and January is an exciting time of year for rose lovers, second only to the spring and fall blooming time.
The nurseries will be receiving their new stock of roses in mid December, and we rosarians all look forward with anticipation the new rose varieties. For the best selection of varieties don't delay. If you wait until late January you may have trouble finding that favorite rose.
You have three options as to where to buy roses: 1. Nurseries, 2. Mail order, 3. Discounters. There is also the option of buying either bare root or potted. My preference is to buy bare root from a nursery that stores the roses in a sawdust bin. The roots of roses stored in a sawdust bin can be examined, and if you don't like the appearance of the roots you don't have to buy. With a packaged rose you don't have that option. After the middle of February my preference is to buy potted roses because they have already started the rooting process, and the chances of survival are much better.
If you are unable to find the variety wanted locally, then your only option is mail order.If the mail order option is used, again be sure and order early, not only for the best selection, but you won't want bare root roses shipped to the Phoenix area in March.
It's time to plant.Dig the hole a month before you plant if possible, replace the soil with amendments and soak well. Do not put fertilizer in the planting hole at this time. Most rose books recommend a planting hole of at least 18 x 18 inches. My recommendation is to make the planting hole 30 x 30 inches, and especially if the soil is dense clay as is found in most of Maricopa county. If you have much caliche your options are to either dig out the caliche or to build raised beds.
It's now planting time. Soak the bare root roses over night in water;dig out some of the planting mix, form a cone,spread the rose roots on the cone with the bud graft 2 inches above grade, backfill and water in well. To keep the canes from drying out mound up either the planting mix or mulch around the canes.
January is the time to prune roses for those of you who already have them in your garden. Basically cut your hybred teas, florabundas, and minatures back from 1/3 to 1/2 depending on the size; cut out the dead wood, and strip off all the leaves and clean up around the bush. It is always helpful to attend one of the pruning demonstrations held in public rose gardens by most of the rose societies in the valley. Watch the Saturday newspapers home section for time and place.
Have problems with roses or have questions to be answered, call the Master Gardner hot line or talk to one of the many Master Gardner Consulting Rosarians.
Rod McKusick, Master Gardner and Consulting Rosarian
Marylou Coffman, Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian --part1_8b.e3491c4.2909fc14_boundary-- From shell@galaxy-7.net Fri Oct 26 06:07:51 2001 From: shell@galaxy-7.net (shell@galaxy-7.net) Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 23:07:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110260607.f9Q67pT08515@Ag.arizona.edu> We have just discovered a lemon tree on our property. It's about 12 feet high and full of lemons. Problem is these lemons have a brown rusty looking stain running through them. We have fertilised the tree and kept it well-watered but is this enough to ensure better lemons next season? What disease/pest/climate circumstances could cause this? I am a trained Master Gardener in Washington, but this Arizona stuff is new to me. :) Thanks for your help. From mmcin52400@aol.com Fri Oct 26 17:43:20 2001 From: mmcin52400@aol.com (mmcin52400@aol.com) Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 10:43:20 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110261743.f9QHhKT03225@Ag.arizona.edu> What to do about white flies? -hoards of them around roses, which look rather sick- Gardenias are beginning to get brown spots on leaves--fern turning brown in places? I have applies mir-acid to both?? From susanspace@hotmail.com Fri Oct 26 19:08:04 2001 From: susanspace@hotmail.com (susanspace@hotmail.com) Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 12:08:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110261908.f9QJ84T18879@Ag.arizona.edu> My neighbor has a pine tree in the corner of her yard that continually drops pine needles into part of my gardening area. I planted an dwarf avocado tree in the area, which is dying. I have been told that pine needles are toxic. Is this true? Any suggestions on what I could plant in that corner of my yard that would survive, yet not create additional litter (I have enough from the pine tree!) The area is in the northwest corner of my yard, so receives full sun most of the day. (Phoenix metro area) Thank you. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Oct 26 20:01:06 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 20:01:06 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] pine needles Message-ID: Here is an earlier response to a similar question: "Pine needles are excellent mulch for strawberries and other plants especially in the desert where our soil is very alkaline. Pine needles tend to be an acidic mulch. Rejoice, if you like the way they look, you've got some great mulch!" Dawn G Kazmer Other responses indicate pine needles are a good mulch for myrtles and grapes. I have not found any literature to indicate pine needles are toxic. How is the avocado dying? They need good drainage to thrive. Is the soil heavy clay? Is there a caliche layer? Avocado can withstand temperatures down to 24 to 30 degrees; Sunset doesn't list it for zones 12-13 but I know some people have success growing the tree (perhaps not getting fruit, however). Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: susanspace@hotmail.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 12:08:04 -0700 (MST) > >My neighbor has a pine tree in the corner of her yard that continually >drops pine needles into part of my gardening area. I planted an dwarf >avocado tree in the area, which is dying. I have been told that pine >needles are toxic. Is this true? Any suggestions on what I could plant in >that corner of my yard that would survive, yet not create additional litter >(I have enough from the pine tree!) The area is in the northwest corner of >my yard, so receives full sun most of the day. (Phoenix metro area) Thank >you. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Oct 26 20:09:01 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 20:09:01 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] white flies Message-ID: Here is a response to an earlier question about whiteflies: >Here are three different methods of white fly control that you might try. �Rinse the underside of the leaves with a powerful stream of water, it this does not work, you can try using soapy water on the plants.. � Put water out for them in a dish or pail. When they go to drink they drown . � Place yellow paper plates with Vaseline on them around your plants. They will be attracted to the color, and then trapped by the Vaseline. Scott Rogers MG Gardenias need more humidity than we typically have here. Mist the plants in the morning (except during bloom time). If you are growing in pots, stand the pots on saucers filled with pebbles and water to increase humidity around the plants. SAlt buildup can also cause brown leaves so leach the soil with an ample watering if you haven't already done so. Most ferns also need more humidity than we have here in the desert. Try the above ideas to inccrease humidity. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: mmcin52400@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 10:43:20 -0700 (MST) > > What to do about white flies? >-hoards of them around roses, which look rather sick- > Gardenias are beginning to get brown spots on leaves--fern turning brown >in places? I have applies mir-acid to both?? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/list _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Oct 26 20:15:09 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 20:15:09 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] citrus disease, fruit rot Message-ID: Check this web page for information on citrus diseases: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/diseases/az1154 Sounds like you might have Alternaria Fruit Rot. If so, proper fertilization and irrigation will reduce the incidence of this disease. There are no chemicals that are presently recommended for control. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: shell@galaxy-7.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 23:07:51 -0700 (MST) > >We have just discovered a lemon tree on our property. It's about 12 feet >high and full of lemons. Problem is these lemons have a brown rusty >looking stain running through them. We have fertilised the tree and kept it >well-watered but is this enough to ensure better lemons next season? > >What disease/pest/climate circumstances could cause this? > >I am a trained Master Gardener in Washington, but this Arizona stuff is new >to me. :) > >Thanks for your help. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From jostrum1@juno.com Sat Oct 27 20:58:01 2001 From: jostrum1@juno.com (jostrum1@juno.com) Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 13:58:01 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110272058.f9RKw1T19466@Ag.arizona.edu> What would eat the leaves of Marigold plants? We just planted a six pack of them in the ground, along with some alysum and we awoke this morning to find the flowers untouched, but all the leaves gone from the marigolds !! bugs, slugs, animals??? Thanks, Jan From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Oct 28 00:36:11 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 00:36:11 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Leafcutter ants Message-ID: It might be a nocturnal visit from leafcutter ants. Did you notice a trail of leaf parts away from the plants? Leafcutter ants don't actually eat the leaves. They carry the leaves deep underground and farm a fungus/mushroom on the leaves; the fungus is their food source. Often, the ants will collect leaves for a couple of weeks, then disappear underground for several months. To get rid of them, you must treat the nest. Pour boiling water or a slurry of oranges (mix up in a blender) down the hole. Regular ant baits don't work. You can use an ant bait that contains insect growth regulator (IGR) -- it prevents the young from maturing. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: jostrum1@juno.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 13:58:01 -0700 (MST) > >What would eat the leaves of Marigold plants? We just planted a six pack >of them in the ground, along with some alysum and we awoke this morning to >find the flowers untouched, but all the leaves gone from the marigolds !! >bugs, slugs, animals??? Thanks, Jan > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From Beverlyfz@aol.com Sun Oct 28 15:28:14 2001 From: Beverlyfz@aol.com (Beverlyfz@aol.com) Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 10:28:14 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bamboo Message-ID: <38.1e06f558.290d7e0e@aol.com> I just bought a long stalk of the bambo that is appearing everywhere. It is supposed to grow in just water. If I cut it into short lengths to group it in a jar, do the cut ends need to dry off or be coated with anything before I put them in the water? Thanks in advance for your help. B From tgarza@harlingen.isd.tenet.edu Mon Oct 29 03:01:11 2001 From: tgarza@harlingen.isd.tenet.edu (tgarza@harlingen.isd.tenet.edu) Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 20:01:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110290301.f9T31BT17764@Ag.arizona.edu> We have found a caterpillar in our garage... It is mint green in color on its body's lower half and orange on its body's top half. The head and tail are dark in color. Can you help us identify what it is and what it needs to eat to survive? We are writing from Texas. Thank you From azballoon1@hotmail.com Mon Oct 29 03:14:19 2001 From: azballoon1@hotmail.com (azballoon1@hotmail.com) Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 20:14:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110290314.f9T3EJT19148@Ag.arizona.edu> Arizona Grown Grand Canyon Sweet Onion where may I buy this seed thanks Joe Storace From ricksmith100@hotmail.com Mon Oct 29 16:35:03 2001 From: ricksmith100@hotmail.com (ricksmith100@hotmail.com) Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 09:35:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110291635.f9TGZ3Y28836@Ag.arizona.edu> Can peonies be grown successfully in the Phoenix area or is it too warm for them? Thank you. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Oct 29 16:55:58 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 16:55:58 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] caterpillar ID Message-ID: I'm not familiar with this caterpillar but have forwarded your question to the insect people at the University of Arizona. In the meantime, I would put the caterpillar in a secure, roomy container with plenty of fresh air (like a screen top) and a layer of soil at the bottom. Pick leaves from a variety of plants in your yard and put them in the container. See if he eats any of them. Also provide a little moisture by sprinkling some leaves with water. Keep in a cool, shaded place and watch to see what happens. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: tgarza@harlingen.isd.tenet.edu >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 20:01:11 -0700 (MST) > >We have found a caterpillar in our garage... It is mint green in color on >its body's lower half and orange on its body's top half. The head and tail >are dark in color. Can you help us identify what it is and what it needs >to eat to survive? We are writing from Texas. > >Thank you > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From jkandell@twistedclicks.com Mon Oct 29 17:12:24 2001 From: jkandell@twistedclicks.com (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2001 10:12:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] rock phosphate or not? Message-ID: <000501c1609e$e0e83c60$1fab3604@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C16062.3469E060 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I've read on this list (Bill E among others) that Rock phosphate and = other rock minerals won't work in arid soils because they won't break = down at all in the high Ph. However, many gardeners in Tucson do seem = to use them. What's the scoop? As long as you add some compost in with = your soil, won't the Ph change enough for the rock to be useful? jk ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C16062.3469E060 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I've read on this list (Bill E among = others) that=20 Rock phosphate and other rock minerals won't work in arid soils = because=20 they won't break down at all in the high Ph. However, many = gardeners in=20 Tucson do seem to use them. What's the scoop? As long as you = add=20 some compost in with your soil, won't the Ph change enough for the rock = to be=20 useful?

------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C16062.3469E060-- From jkandell@twistedclicks.com Tue Oct 30 23:20:24 2001 From: jkandell@twistedclicks.com (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 16:20:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] plants drooping after seaweed spray Message-ID: <006c01c1619c$19f89b00$7ab43604@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0043_01C1615E.C7545F20 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Can someone tell me why my my brocolli and cabbage plants droop the = morning after I spray seaweed spray (the evening before)?=20 jk ------=_NextPart_000_0043_01C1615E.C7545F20 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Can someone tell me why my my brocolli = and=20 cabbage plants droop the morning after I spray seaweed spray (the = evening=20 before)?

------=_NextPart_000_0043_01C1615E.C7545F20-- From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Wed Oct 31 00:16:02 2001 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 16:16:02 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200110291635.f9TGZ3Y28836@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20011031001602.63987.qmail@web14908.mail.yahoo.com> In two words, NO and YES. No peonies won't flower here and yes its to hot. They need to many cold hours to set flowers. --- ricksmith100@hotmail.com wrote: > Can peonies be grown successfully in the Phoenix > area or is it too warm for them? > Thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals. http://personals.yahoo.com From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Wed Oct 31 00:20:57 2001 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 16:20:57 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] rock phosphate or not? In-Reply-To: <000501c1609e$e0e83c60$1fab3604@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <20011031002057.66618.qmail@web14901.mail.yahoo.com> Some compost won't do it. Soil sulfur will lower the PH of your soil.Add a lot of both to your soil and you may lower the PH to a point wherethe natural phosphate may be available. --- Jonathan Kandell wrote: > I've read on this list (Bill E among others) that > Rock phosphate and other rock minerals won't work in > arid soils because they won't break down at all in > the high Ph. However, many gardeners in Tucson do > seem to use them. What's the scoop? As long as you > add some compost in with your soil, won't the Ph > change enough for the rock to be useful? > > jk > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals. http://personals.yahoo.com From winterbarb@aol.com Wed Oct 31 03:23:14 2001 From: winterbarb@aol.com (winterbarb@aol.com) Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2001 20:23:14 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110310323.f9V3NEY23920@Ag.arizona.edu> We have been experiencing in influx of bees at night that congregate around our outdoor lighting. Each morning for the last two weeks I get up each morning and sweep up hundreds of dead bees on my patio below the lights. I have 5 dogs and as yet they have not been bothered. But my question is, why for the first time in 17 years do we have them like this and how can we stop them. I am concerned for the welfare of my dogs and my family. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Barbara Winterberg From bws@qwest.net Wed Oct 31 13:24:15 2001 From: bws@qwest.net (bws@qwest.net) Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 06:24:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110311324.f9VDOFY16688@Ag.arizona.edu> Our three year old lemon & Mexican lime trees have recently produced small fruit and dropped them to the ground. They were dry on the inside when they were cut open. Can you offer suggestions to improve the quality of the fruit? From wayne_hanne@msn.com Wed Oct 31 15:00:20 2001 From: wayne_hanne@msn.com (wayne_hanne@msn.com) Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 08:00:20 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110311500.f9VF0KY26399@Ag.arizona.edu> I need to transplant several plants due to a renovation project. The plants are the following: Lantanas, Bottle Brushes, Oleanders and Natal Plums. Also I have a 12 Pine tree. I don't need to transplant them until Mid December. Is there anything I should be doing now to get these ready for the transplant? What should be done for a successful transplant? Can the Pine tree be transplanted? Wayne Mangold From russb001@sprynet.com Wed Oct 31 15:08:23 2001 From: russb001@sprynet.com (russb001@sprynet.com) Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 08:08:23 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110311508.f9VF8NY27712@Ag.arizona.edu> I have Lantana plants and I would like to know when they should be trimmed., also how much and how often they should be watered. Thank you. From CBrdgBldr@aol.com Wed Oct 31 17:57:47 2001 From: CBrdgBldr@aol.com (CBrdgBldr@aol.com) Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 10:57:47 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110311757.f9VHvlY06068@Ag.arizona.edu> My 3 year old orange and grapefruit trees have dropped several fruits which have a perfectly round hole bored into each one. I observed that the holes were bored before the fruits fell onto the ground. I'd like to know what is causing this...birds? insects? And what can I do to prevent more damage. THANKS SO MUCH. C Pontius From PlantPerson@prodigy.net Wed Oct 31 18:08:16 2001 From: PlantPerson@prodigy.net (Pauline Marx) Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 11:08:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Holes in Citrus Message-ID: <002901c16237$0499dbc0$56e4ffd1@0016164664> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0025_01C161FC.56EB5240 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The round holes found in your citrus are caused by birds. The only way to prevent this from happening is to cover the tree with netting. The part of the fruit where there are no holes is still edible unless rot has set in. Pauline Marx, Moderator for the Prodigy Gardens Master Gardener Maricopa County Arizona ------=_NextPart_000_0025_01C161FC.56EB5240 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

The round holes found in your citrus = are caused by=20 birds. The only way to prevent this from happening is to cover the = tree=20 with netting. The part of the fruit where there are no holes is still = edible=20 unless rot has set in.

Pauline Marx, Moderator for the Prodigy = Gardens
Master Gardener Maricopa County = Arizona

------=_NextPart_000_0025_01C161FC.56EB5240-- From bradleyl@Ag.arizona.edu Wed Oct 31 20:22:34 2001 From: bradleyl@Ag.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 13:22:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: Watershed Info No 89 Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20011031132111.01f42e38@ag.arizona.edu> >8. Removing Fine Cactus Spines, Briars, Or Multiple Small Splinters From The >Skin. To remove fine cactus spines and other small projections from the >skin, first use tweezers to remove the larger pieces and then apply a >nontoxic household glue (ie. Elmers Glue) with a cotton swab and top it off >with a single layer of gauze. Let the glue dry and remove the gauze and >glue. The spines and briars should come out with it. Source: UCLA Wellness >Letter, November 2001. From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Wed Oct 31 22:35:00 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 15:35:00 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] lantana References: <200110311508.f9VF8NY27712@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <002d01c1625c$487624a0$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> The leaves of the lantana are used by the plant to produce food for the plant. Any time you prune, the plant looses some of its ability to produce food, also the plant uses extra energy to heal the cuts. For these reasons, it is important that you not remove any more than 25% of the foliage in any one year. Lantana is susceptible to frost damage, because of this most people wait until February to prune so that they can remove any damaged foliage or branches at that time. As with many of the plants in the low desert, lantana should be watered infrequently but deeply in the summer. As the weather cools. you will want to reduce your watering schedule. Giving a precise watering schedule is impossible due to the different soils. You just want to make sure that the roots are not constantly wet as this will cause them to rot. Scott Rogers MG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2001 8:08 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I have Lantana plants and I would like to know when they should be trimmed., also how much and how often they should be watered. > Thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From PERFLOWERS@aol.com Mon Oct 1 00:02:59 2001 From: PERFLOWERS@aol.com (PERFLOWERS@aol.com) Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 20:02:59 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Blocking out Bermuda grass Message-ID: Starlene, There is a product called "Manage" that kills nutgrass. The nice thing about it is that it kills only nutgrass - it doesn't bother anything else it is sprayed on. I had about a 12 x 12 area that had nutgrass growing in it for about 3 years. I finally got around to spraying "Manage" on it several weeks ago. It killed about 1/3 of it, so I am going out to spray again tomorrow. I may have to spray a third time, but that is my own fault because I let the nut grass get so far ahead of me. The saleswoman told me that it doesn't work very well once the temperature goes below 85 degrees. Round-up kills Bermuda grass, but you have to be careful with using the spray. I killed a Mt Lemon Marigold because I think the spray drifted over from another plant I was spraying. I also have a couple of undesirable bushes growing in with a desirable bush. I bent a branch of the undesirable bush to the ground and anchored it down with a rock - then sprayed the branch with Round-up. It killed only the branch I had held down with the rock - I was hoping it would kill the whole undesirable bush. I am going to fill a small sprayer with pure Round-up and spray it on a couple more branches and see if it will kill them quicker. Bermuda grass roots go very deep and somehow always manages to creep in where you don't want it. Val From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Oct 1 00:30:21 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 20:30:21 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ants taking off with worms Message-ID: <11d.5109490.28e9131d@aol.com> --part1_11d.5109490.28e9131d_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Beverly, Sprinkle some cream of wheat on your plot where the ants are located. The ants will eat it and swell up and good by ants. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_11d.5109490.28e9131d_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Beverly,

Sprinkle some cream of wheat on your plot where the ants are located. The ants will eat it and swell up and good by ants.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_11d.5109490.28e9131d_boundary-- From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Mon Oct 1 04:06:15 2001 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 21:06:15 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Blocking out Bermuda grass In-Reply-To: <012c01c149f0$5ab9f6c0$e8c8e13f@pavilion> Message-ID: <20011001040615.73187.qmail@web14903.mail.yahoo.com> I reccomend aluminum roof flashing (18") tall. Bury it straight down about 17" and place your edging against the inch or so sticking out of the ground. It works well and lasts years.For nutsedge, the best thing I've used is "Manage". It can take more than one application but it works and only on nutgrass. Very expensive!! --- Starlene Stewart wrote: > Hi, > > Someone asked recently about what to do about > getting rid of > Bermuda to plant an herb garden. > > What I've always done is dig out the area completely > and gone > through shovelful by shovelful taking out every > little piece of > Bermuda I could find. I understand if only one > rhizome is left > then you will have a problem. This is a very > time-consuming > task. > > A friend of mine built a screen using wood and > hardware cloth. > He used 2x4s and cut them to make a frame that is 2 > feet square. > He attached one-quarter inch hardware cloth to that > and he puts > in several shovelfuls of dirt and then shakes the > strainer back > and forth over a wheelbarrow. He tosses out the > grass, roots and > large rocks. This process appears to be effortless > for him, but > I've tried it and I just don't have the strength or > stamina that > he does. > > What I've done over the years to block the bermuda > from creeping > into the garden is to line the sides with 2x4's. > But these > aren't very effective as the Bermuda tends to creep > over or grow > under. > > I have Bermuda grass in my front yard, and didn't > want my rose > bush choked out by the grass. I found some aluminum > flashing > that someone had thrown away, and had it trimmed and > fixed to > make a round circle. It is about 8 inches wide, and > I have > buried it under the ground about 4 inches which left > 4 inches on > top. This works very very well at keeping the > Bermuda out of the > rose bush bed. > > What are some other suggestions for keeping the > Bermuda at bay? > I keep thinking there must be some very effective, > inexpensive > thing to use that I am overlooking. I have seen > that Home Depot > has some type of bordering rolled up, about 4 inches > in width, > but that wouldn't work well enough. I find that I > need a border > that is at least 8 inches wide, so that I can bury a > good portion > underground and then the Bermuda can't creep over > the top. > > I'm also fighting nutgrass, what a nightmare! > > I guess I'm thinking of going to a sheet metal type > place and see > if I can buy a roll of aluminum flashing that I > could bury around > the perimeter of my garden after I've eradicated the > Bermuda > within. > > As a last resort, I'm thinking of buying a gallon of > Round-up, > but I don't like using pesticides, although it does > seem much > simpler than sifting through all that dirt, and then > using the > Round-up to keep the Bermuda out of the garden as > well. > > Any suggestions are welcomed! Thank in advance. > > Starlene > Phoenix, AZ > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Listen to your Yahoo! Mail messages from any phone. http://phone.yahoo.com From drgarnett@msn.com Mon Oct 1 06:09:58 2001 From: drgarnett@msn.com (Donald Garnett) Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 23:09:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] ornamental pepper Message-ID: ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C14A05.065F8620 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" We have had an ornamental pepper in a container on a back patio through the past two winters here in Tucson without problems, moving it out into a place where it gets as much sun as possible. I suspect yours will survive also if it is healthy. If you're concerned about frost cover the plants with a plastic bag or a sheet on nights with frost/freeze warnings. Don Garnett ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C14A05.065F8620 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

We have had an= ornamental pepper in a container on a back patio

through the = past two winters here in Tucson without problems,

moving it o= ut into a place where it gets as much sun as possible.

I suspe= ct yours will survive also if it is healthy. If you're concerned

about frost cover the plants with a plastic bag or a sheet on nights

with frost/freeze warnings.

= Don Garnett

= ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C14A05.065F8620-- From Ranger1242@aol.com Mon Oct 1 12:53:31 2001 From: Ranger1242@aol.com (Ranger1242@aol.com) Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 05:53:31 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110011253.f91CrVP17891@Ag.arizona.edu> At the home and garden show I noticed many booths dedicated to deep feeding and curing sick queen palms. I know each case is different, but typically in the valley what is wrong when new palm fronds go brown in what appears to be a healthy tree. Also what signs should I look for when diagnosing a problem with a queen palm. Thank you! From outside@jillandken.net Mon Oct 1 15:32:21 2001 From: outside@jillandken.net (outside@jillandken.net) Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 08:32:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110011532.f91FWLP05561@Ag.arizona.edu> I have three trees in my backyard which seem to be dying. I believe the trees are: Ash, Plum, and Peach. Basically, all the leaves have fallen off of all three trees. They are near two Evergreen Elms which are doing just fine. The are on a sprinkler system and therefore get watered along with the grass (i.e., I'm fairly certain they are getting enough water). thanks for any help Jill From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Oct 1 18:14:21 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2001 11:14:21 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Blocking out Bermuda grass References: <012c01c149f0$5ab9f6c0$e8c8e13f@pavilion> Message-ID: <3BB8B27D.63B32F89@qwest.net> Most of us use barrier methods like your aluminum flashing. Although glyphosate [did I spell that right? aka Roundup] is effective with bermuda, I understand that Manage is better for your nutsedge problem. Even so, it will require a few applications, and your diligence. Linda Guy, MG Starlene Stewart wrote: > Hi, > > Someone asked recently about what to do about getting rid of > Bermuda to plant an herb garden. > > What I've always done is dig out the area completely and gone > through shovelful by shovelful taking out every little piece of > Bermuda I could find. I understand if only one rhizome is left > then you will have a problem. This is a very time-consuming > task. > > A friend of mine built a screen using wood and hardware cloth. > He used 2x4s and cut them to make a frame that is 2 feet square. > He attached one-quarter inch hardware cloth to that and he puts > in several shovelfuls of dirt and then shakes the strainer back > and forth over a wheelbarrow. He tosses out the grass, roots and > large rocks. This process appears to be effortless for him, but > I've tried it and I just don't have the strength or stamina that > he does. > > What I've done over the years to block the bermuda from creeping > into the garden is to line the sides with 2x4's. But these > aren't very effective as the Bermuda tends to creep over or grow > under. > > I have Bermuda grass in my front yard, and didn't want my rose > bush choked out by the grass. I found some aluminum flashing > that someone had thrown away, and had it trimmed and fixed to > make a round circle. It is about 8 inches wide, and I have > buried it under the ground about 4 inches which left 4 inches on > top. This works very very well at keeping the Bermuda out of the > rose bush bed. > > What are some other suggestions for keeping the Bermuda at bay? > I keep thinking there must be some very effective, inexpensive > thing to use that I am overlooking. I have seen that Home Depot > has some type of bordering rolled up, about 4 inches in width, > but that wouldn't work well enough. I find that I need a border > that is at least 8 inches wide, so that I can bury a good portion > underground and then the Bermuda can't creep over the top. > > I'm also fighting nutgrass, what a nightmare! > > I guess I'm thinking of going to a sheet metal type place and see > if I can buy a roll of aluminum flashing that I could bury around > the perimeter of my garden after I've eradicated the Bermuda > within. > > As a last resort, I'm thinking of buying a gallon of Round-up, > but I don't like using pesticides, although it does seem much > simpler than sifting through all that dirt, and then using the > Round-up to keep the Bermuda out of the garden as well. > > Any suggestions are welcomed! Thank in advance. > > Starlene > Phoenix, AZ > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Oct 1 18:25:46 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2001 11:25:46 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grape Damage References: <200109291936.f8TJaCP04541@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BB8B52A.C6090FF3@qwest.net> Most caterpillars are controlled with a biological product called Bt or http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/clubs.htm Here are some links to discussions on a grape pest, the grape leaf skeletonizer, whose colors don't precisely match what you've described. You could identify the skeletonizer with photos at the second link. http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/insects/westgrapeskeletonizer.html http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/insects/stingingcaterpillars.html When I took my MG training years ago, I being told remember that grapes for the homeowner was a more difficult challenge than a commercial endeavor. In the latter, the field's perimeter tends to sustain the worst damage, leaving the interior to harvest. A homeowner has no such advantage. Don't know if this is true, but it is was I remember. Linda Guy, MG pmbarker0304@hotmail.com wrote: > I have a grape arbor, and it was lush this year. Then beautiful midnight blue moths, created beautiful yellow and blue caterpillars which decimated my arbor before I knew it. How can I share the arbor with nature, and minimize plant and fruit loss? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Oct 1 18:45:32 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2001 11:45:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fish Hook Barrel Cactus References: <200109150339.f8F3dcH28265@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BB8B9CC.98D38AD2@qwest.net> It looks like you haven't received a reply yet. There is more experience with members of the cactus and succulent world at the Desert Botanical Gardens. They have a plant hotline weekdays, 10 - 11:30 am, 480/941-1225. Sorry we weren't able to help. Linda Guy, MG beej17@earthlink.net wrote: > I have had a fish hook barrel cactus in my yard for 20 years.It did not bloom last year and it looks like it isn't going to bloom this year either, although it has some buds. > What could be the problem? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Oct 1 18:56:48 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2001 11:56:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grape Damage References: <200109291936.f8TJaCP04541@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BB8BC70.4835EA8E@qwest.net> This is a resend to correct information I errroneously copied into the first reply. My apologies. Most caterpillars are controlled with a biological product called Bt or bacillus thuringiensis. Here are some links to discussions on a grape pest, the grape leaf skeletonizer, whose colors don't precisely match what you've described. You could identify the skeletonizer with photos at the second link. http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/insects/westgrapeskeletonizer.html http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/insects/stingingcaterpillars.html When I took my MG training years ago, I being told remember that grapes for the homeowner was a more difficult challenge than a commercial endeavor. In the latter, the field's perimeter tends to sustain the worst damage, leaving the interior to harvest. A homeowner has no such advantage. Don't know if this is true, but it is was I remember. Linda Guy, MG pmbarker0304@hotmail.com wrote: > I have a grape arbor, and it was lush this year. Then beautiful midnight blue moths, created beautiful yellow and blue caterpillars which decimated my arbor before I knew it. How can I share the arbor with nature, and minimize plant and fruit loss? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From j_harrell@NetZero.net Mon Oct 1 19:42:14 2001 From: j_harrell@NetZero.net (Jackie and Bill Harrell) Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2001 12:42:14 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus fertilization Message-ID: <3BB8C716.81FD29DB@NetZero.net> Dear Master Gardener, Is it too late to give my mature Arizona Sweet tree 1 more cup of ammonium sulfate which I still owe it? The last feeding was May-June of 7 cups, but I'm late for this last one; still, it's been so hot - what do you think? Would it be o.k., or should I forget it? Jackie Harrell --------------------------------------------------------------- NetZero Platinum Only $9.95 per month! Sign up in September to win one of 30 Hawaiian Vacations for 2! http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97 From dthill@msn.com Mon Oct 1 21:12:46 2001 From: dthill@msn.com (dthill@msn.com) Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 14:12:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110012112.f91LCjP21195@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a Brazilian pepper tree infected with what I believe is verticillium wilt. What I have read indicates no cure and the fungus lasts for several years in the ground. What I would like to know is can the fungus be tranported to other plants in the yard and if so, how. Also, I would like to have two lists: 1) Shrubs and trees susceptible to the wilt, and 2) Shrubs and trees resistant to it. From se20113@aol.com Mon Oct 1 22:18:13 2001 From: se20113@aol.com (se20113@aol.com) Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 15:18:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110012218.f91MICP05586@Ag.arizona.edu> We have two Podranea ricasoliana (pink trumpet vine) planted on the South West exposure of our house. They keep yellowing and the leaves and most of the flower buds turn brown and drop off. They were planted in April of this year. What are we doing wrong? They are on our irrigation system. Thank you. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Oct 1 23:23:44 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 19:23:44 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Verticillium on a pepper tree Message-ID: --part1_bd.14d25777.28ea5500_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Are you sure that your pepper tree has Verticillium? Since the fungi that causes Verticillium is only active when temperatures are between 70 and 85 degrees F which means the symptoms usually only show up in the spring or fall. The pepper tree is very susceptable to Texas Root Rot and the symptoms are similiar except with TRR the roots rot and with V they do not. With TRR the leaves will usually stay on the tree. With V there is usually vascular discoloration in the roots and lower stems. Why not take a root sample ( finger size x 1 foot long ) to Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for an ID. While there pick up a bulletin on Verticillium and Texas Root Rot. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_bd.14d25777.28ea5500_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Are you sure that your pepper tree has Verticillium? Since the fungi that causes Verticillium is only active when temperatures are between 70 and 85 degrees F which means the symptoms usually only show up in the spring or fall.
The pepper tree is very susceptable to Texas Root Rot and the symptoms are similiar except with TRR the roots rot and with V they do not. With TRR the leaves will usually stay on the tree. With V there is usually vascular discoloration in the roots and lower stems.

Why not take a root sample ( finger size x 1 foot long ) to Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for an ID. While there pick up a bulletin on Verticillium and Texas Root Rot.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_bd.14d25777.28ea5500_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Oct 1 23:23:47 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 19:23:47 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Trees dying Message-ID: <97.1c0ac023.28ea5503@aol.com> --part1_97.1c0ac023.28ea5503_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jill, If the only water that your dying trees are getting is from the turf irrigation then your trees are most likely dying from drought stress. The water that you are applying to the grass is probably only penetrating 6 to 8 inches deep, the trees need water down to 3 feet deep. Lay a hose at the tree and let it run slowly overnight for proper irrigation. Check out this site for info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_97.1c0ac023.28ea5503_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jill,

If the only water that your dying trees are getting is from the turf irrigation then your trees are most likely dying from drought stress. The water that you are applying to the grass is probably only penetrating 6 to 8 inches deep, the trees need water down to 3 feet deep. Lay a hose at the tree and let it run slowly overnight for proper irrigation.

Check out this site for info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_97.1c0ac023.28ea5503_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Oct 1 23:23:45 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 19:23:45 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus fertilization Message-ID: <21.11f237f5.28ea5501@aol.com> --part1_21.11f237f5.28ea5501_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jackie, Go ahead and fertilize but do it right away. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_21.11f237f5.28ea5501_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jackie,

Go ahead and fertilize but do it right away.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_21.11f237f5.28ea5501_boundary-- From sigcon1@earthlink.net Tue Oct 2 01:10:13 2001 From: sigcon1@earthlink.net (sigcon1@earthlink.net) Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 18:10:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110020110.f921ADP05327@Ag.arizona.edu> Do you have information on u-pick farms and apple orchards in AZ? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Oct 2 02:24:24 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 02:24:24 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] u-pick farms Message-ID: regarding: U-pick farms and apple orchards in Arizona Call 1-888 PICKED-4U for information or to order a free copy of the "Arizona Farm To Family Directory". Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: sigcon1@earthlink.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 18:10:13 -0700 (MST) > >Do you have information on u-pick farms and apple orchards in AZ? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Oct 2 15:19:22 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 08:19:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Podranea ricasoliana [pink trumpet vine] References: <200110012218.f91MICP05586@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BB9DAF9.804A882A@qwest.net> Mary Irish writes in her book, Gardening in the Desert, that it should reach its peak bloom in October. Grows well in full sun on a hot wall [it appears you have it in a good exposure], although it can take partial shade and is not at all fussy about its soil. She suggests a light fertilization or application of manure in late summer if the leaves yellow, which evidently they do on occasion. She also notes that the plant may appear to sit still its first year in the ground, going gang-busters by its third season. A hard pruning should be done in January, before new growth which is where the blooms will appear. This suggest watering may be your issue. Mary suggests a deep soak [I'd suggest to 2'] every 5 days in summer. Jones/Sacamano's Landscape Plants for Dry Regions suggests an even less frequent application of water: every 1-2 weeks. With blooms dropping, I'm thinking that the water is either too much and/or too frequent. Try giving the root ball a chance to dry out, if it is soaked. Both sources suggest good drainage is needed as well as substantially cutting back on the water in winter [say 2-3x during the whole season]. Linda Guy, MG se20113@aol.com wrote: > We have two Podranea ricasoliana (pink trumpet vine) planted on the South West exposure of our house. They keep yellowing and the leaves and most of the flower buds turn brown and drop off. > They were planted in April of this year. > What are we doing wrong? They are on our irrigation system. > > Thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Oct 2 15:29:37 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 08:29:37 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palms References: <200110011253.f91CrVP17891@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BB9DD61.EAC57B6D@qwest.net> Queen palms give a lovely, tropical effect, which is why so many folks want them. But unfortunately, it is a poor choice for the low deserts of the Phoenix area which may explain why so many outfits are around, trying to help the homeowner with their management/care. They are not a desert palm, do not prefer our alkaline soils and sometimes suffer from our hot, dry winds. They're a better choice for the coast. We have a palm publication which you can access for general palm care as well as a discussion of the individual palms themselves at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Look for AZ 1021, in the ornamentals section. This palm likes extra nitrogen and iron, and is susceptible to manganese deficiency. A good palm blend of fertilizer should help alot. Linda Guy, MG Ranger1242@aol.com wrote: > At the home and garden show I noticed many booths dedicated to deep feeding and curing sick queen palms. I know each case is different, but typically in the valley what is wrong when new palm fronds go brown in what appears to be a healthy tree. Also what signs should I look for when diagnosing a problem with a queen palm. Thank you! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Oct 2 15:36:13 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 08:36:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Aptenia cordifolia [Hearts & Flowers] References: <200109172223.f8HMNuV09464@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BB9DEED.BE7E0A9E@qwest.net> Possible problems: Foot traffic [it tolerates none at all]. It requires more water than adjacent arid-landscape plants on its drip line [but still needs to dry out between waterings]. Needs excellent drainage, and prefers better quality soils [perhaps your soil is a bit 'tired' now after several seasons]. Plantings suffer and may die due to rot, if overwatered, especially during the monsoon [hot, humid] weather. Hope this helps. Linda Guy, MG tburrphx@aol.com wrote: > We have a bed behind our pool that we've planted with ice-plant groundcover ("hearts & flower"). Over the past few years it does really well in the spring and early summer -- then very quickly dies -- looks like it's burned or something in various areas. Certain plants seem OK, but huge areas are dry and dead. We've tried all kinds of sprinklers to assure that it's getting enough water -- but now it's dead again. Could it be burning? Or perhaps too much water that's causing some kind of fungus? HELP !!!! Many thanks! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Oct 2 15:45:02 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 08:45:02 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Prpagating Caesalpinia gillesii [Yellow Bird of Paradise] References: <200109212030.f8LKUhP08546@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BB9E0FE.E169CEFB@qwest.net> If you actually have the plant, it may be as simple as looking for 'volunteers' in the adjacent ground the following growth season, since this plant naturalizes quite freely from volunteer seedlings. Indeed, removing these unwanted seedlings will probably become an annual maintenance chore. [The plant's landscape value includes revegetation.] I've never tried to plant the seed, but would suggest a well-drained potting mix, since it prefers well-drained soil. Or plant the seed in place, remembering the ultimate size is 5-10 feet, in more of a tree form. It can grow in low to intermediate zones, but is not hardy in severe cold, dying back to the ground. Your level of precipitation is not much more than we receive in Phoenix. This looks nicer with some water in the summer, say every week or two. Linda Guy, MG rfjts@arn.net wrote: > How do I start desert Bird of Paradise (Caesalpinia gilliesii) from seed/ Will it grow in the Texas Panhandle (3200ft w/19in of rain annually)? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Oct 2 15:56:55 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 08:56:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plum varieties for Phoenix References: <200109212311.f8LNBlP11465@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BB9E3C7.DE9E8454@qwest.net> We have several fruit tree publications, including suitable varieties, at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Unfortunately, they are not online, and you will need to order them from the county extension office. Instructions are at this link. You will need to consider the number of chilling hours required [# hours below 45F]. Maricopa County averatges between 300-400 chilling hours per year. Find varieties that require no more than 250 to be safe. Also select varieties that will mature before the hot summer temps are upon us, else the fruit will sunburn. Finally, if you can only plant one tree, you will need to select a self-pollinating or self-fruitful variety. Those plums recommended for Maricopa County in our publication MC-90 are Beauty, Santa Rosa*, Methley, Gulf Gold* and Gulf Ruby*. [*have been evaluated and performed well in Salt River Valley.] Hope this is helpful. Linda Guy, MG rodgersmichael@qwest.net wrote: > Where can I find information on plum tree varieties that can thrive in the low desert? > > I am interested in a variety I grew up with in San Diego. I don't have the name of the plum, but a Wild Oats Store recently had a black plum called "Black Friar" that was very, very close to what I remember from my childhood. > > Thanks is advance, > > Michael > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Oct 2 16:22:56 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 09:22:56 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf for Shade References: <200109231530.f8NFUiP22119@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BB9E9E0.3EAB8F1A@qwest.net> I believe it to be a matter of shade. Bermuda doesn't grow wiithout sun. And you've indicated that the problem gets worse every year [as the trees grow larger] and it's worse in the front [where the trees are larger in size than those of your back yard]. Turf for shady sites is always an issue here. If you look carefully around any neighborhood with mature trees, you'll see limited vegetation of any kind beneath the tree canopy. St. Augustine is the option I'm most familiar with. I'm including a link to a similar reply, which is in the archives of our Q&A section. You can run your own query on truf for shade and see the others that come up. http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2001-March/006811.html Linda Guy, MG b.marcel@home.com wrote: > Hello, > I have a problem that has gotten progrssively worse each summer. I live in the north central corridor, around 7th Ave. and Northern. I have very large Arizona Ash trees in both my front and back yard. We have totally lost our front yard Bermuda lawn the past few years. The back is better, though there are some patches dead. Those trees are not as large as in the front. So, this year in May, we put in Fescue, on recommendation of Berridge's Nursery. It came in nicely, but by the end of July, even though we fertilized, it started to die. I have absolutely no grass, roots or anything left. The ground is damp, I have sprinklers. We do have some nettle weeds that I've tried to pull out. Now the weird part is, that we have had a beautiful winter lawn that has come in very nicely each fall. One nursery said they thought that with my shade and the Ash trees using so much water, that it has sucked the roots dry. Then, when the trees are dormant, the rye has water to grow. So! > meone else suggesed pearl scale, but that was not the problem last year. We are considering St. Augustine next spring, but I need a solution before we put any more money into this embarrassing mess! I appreciate any help. My phone # is 602-896-5751 at work, and 944-3693 at home, evenings. > Thank you again! > Brbara Marcellus > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From turtletop@aol.com Tue Oct 2 16:44:30 2001 From: turtletop@aol.com (turtletop@aol.com) Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 09:44:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110021644.f92GiUP18402@Ag.arizona.edu> I have discovered a small cut worms in some texans blue bell srubs. They have killed four of these plants. Can I use something to get rid of these worms, and can I replant in the same area? Thanks for any help. From bnd52@home.com Tue Oct 2 18:01:43 2001 From: bnd52@home.com (bnd52@home.com) Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 11:01:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110021801.f92I1gP05832@Ag.arizona.edu> I Have a valencia orange tree that is planted in a large pot. The leaves are starting to curl and the leaves appear to be wilting. What is the problem with the tree, if any. Your response will be appreciated. Thank you, Don Godwin ps. I live in Northwest Florida From fjsandjoyce@retired.com Tue Oct 2 20:21:35 2001 From: fjsandjoyce@retired.com (fjsandjoyce@retired.com) Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 13:21:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110022021.f92KLZP07308@Ag.arizona.edu> Need help in two areas as follows: 1) Looking for low growing flowering ground cover in 18" wide planter in front of block wall in which we have mini bottlebrush plants. Planter has "umbrella" type sprinklers which are adjustable up to 10 gallon of water per hour and come on when the lawn sprinklers come on. How much water should the mini bottlebrushes and recommened ground cover get vs the lawn? Should the shrub heads be changed to soaker type and if so what size? Would like to put in a couple of sage bushes for desert turtles to eat but how do they hold up to watering? Would like everything to be watered at same time and at same rate as lawn if possible. 2) Lawn soil is beginning to crack and some areas the grass will not grow. Birds are pecking at soil and putting holes in ground. Have tried bent grass, tall red fescue, rye, dicondra, bluegrass and same result- will grow for a while then patchs die off. Watering every other day for about 1/2 hour to a full hour depending of temperature. Have been fertilizing twice a year - same result. Have 2 large shade trees so need grass that will grow in shade and full sun. Is it possible that the soil is worn out? Is there any place to send soil samples to get soil tested? From fjsandjoyce@retired.com Tue Oct 2 20:23:50 2001 From: fjsandjoyce@retired.com (fjsandjoyce@retired.com) Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 13:23:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110022023.f92KNoP07827@Ag.arizona.edu> Need help in two areas as follows: 1) Looking for low growing flowering ground cover in 18" wide planter in front of block wall in which we have mini bottlebrush plants. Planter has "umbrella" type sprinklers which are adjustable up to 10 gallon of water per hour and come on when the lawn sprinklers come on. How much water should the mini bottlebrushes and recommened ground cover get vs the lawn? Should the shrub heads be changed to soaker type and if so what size? Would like to put in a couple of sage bushes for desert turtles to eat but how do they hold up to watering? Would like everything to be watered at same time and at same rate as lawn if possible. 2) Lawn soil is beginning to crack and some areas the grass will not grow. Birds are pecking at soil and putting holes in ground. Have tried bent grass, tall red fescue, rye, dicondra, bluegrass and same result- will grow for a while then patchs die off. Watering every other day for about 1/2 hour to a full hour depending of temperature. Have been fertilizing twice a year - same result. Have 2 large shade trees so need grass that will grow in shade and full sun. Is it possible that the soil is worn out? Is there any place to send soil samples to get soil tested? Thank You - Frank Steinmetz From donne@acumen2.net Tue Oct 2 20:51:37 2001 From: donne@acumen2.net (donne@acumen2.net) Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 13:51:37 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110022051.f92KpbP15193@Ag.arizona.edu> I have three centurian agaves in my yard, two in the front with no water and direct sun and one in the back with water and shade. All three are suffering from some type of rot or wilt. The bottom leaves die and turn brown and then the rest of the plant seems to topple. Help! I don't want to lose these plants. From sjbass@qwest.net Tue Oct 2 21:17:10 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 14:17:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Possible Agave Snout Weevil Infestation References: <200110022051.f92KpbP15193@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BBA2ED6.84D31AC0@qwest.net> Did the condition of the agave in your yard seem to come on quite suddenly? According to Mary Irish in her book, "Agaves, Yuccas and Related Plants", in an agave snout weevil infestation, a plant seems quite healthy, then suddenly collapses, with the outer leaves going first, leaving the central spike to finally collapse too. The damage can take place in a matter of weeks. Weevils are most active and lay their eggs during warm weather. If this is the case with your plants, there isn't anything you can do for them at this point. The weevils are black and about 1 inch long. If you do have weevils, do not plant another agave in the hole where these agave were growing as the larvae could still be present. Sue Bass Master Gardener donne@acumen2.net wrote: > I have three centurian agaves in my yard, > two in the front with no water and direct > sun and one in the back with water and shade. > All three are suffering from some type of > rot or wilt. The bottom leaves die and turn > brown and then the rest of the plant seems > to topple. Help! I don't want to lose these > plants. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Oct 2 22:16:49 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 18:16:49 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Agave Weevil Message-ID: <44.1424b882.28eb96d1@aol.com> --part1_44.1424b882.28eb96d1_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I suspect that the Agave Weevil has destroyed your agaves. When you remove them you will find a rotted mess. For future agaves an application of an insecticide such as Diazinon applied in May or June will help to prevent the problem. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_44.1424b882.28eb96d1_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I suspect that the Agave Weevil has destroyed your agaves. When you remove them you will find a rotted mess. For future agaves an application of an insecticide such as Diazinon applied in May or June will help to prevent the problem.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_44.1424b882.28eb96d1_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Oct 2 22:16:41 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 18:16:41 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cutworm control Message-ID: <84.1c54a683.28eb96c9@aol.com> --part1_84.1c54a683.28eb96c9_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit There are several insecticides that will control cutworms such as Sevin, Diaziinon, Spectricide or Dursban. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_84.1c54a683.28eb96c9_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit There are several insecticides that will control cutworms such as Sevin, Diaziinon, Spectricide or Dursban.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_84.1c54a683.28eb96c9_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Oct 2 22:16:40 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 18:16:40 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Orange tree wilting Message-ID: <10c.65ac727.28eb96c8@aol.com> --part1_10c.65ac727.28eb96c8_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I suspect that your orange tree is not getting enough water, however since your climatic conditions are very different from ours in the low desert in Arizona I suggest that you contact your local Cooperative Extension, you will find them listed under county government in your phone book and their service is free as is ours. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_10c.65ac727.28eb96c8_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I suspect that your orange tree is not getting enough water, however since your climatic conditions are very different from ours in the low desert in Arizona I suggest that you contact your local Cooperative Extension, you will find them listed under county government in your phone book and their service is free as is ours.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_10c.65ac727.28eb96c8_boundary-- From Phi722@aol.com Tue Oct 2 22:34:49 2001 From: Phi722@aol.com (Phi722@aol.com) Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 15:34:49 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110022234.f92MYnP09905@Ag.arizona.edu> What type of grass should I overseed with for this winter and when should I overseed? How should I prepare the ground for the overseed? Thank you! From sjbass@qwest.net Tue Oct 2 23:27:24 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 16:27:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Overseeding for winter References: <200110022234.f92MYnP09905@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BBA4D5C.313AB204@qwest.net> You can view fellow Master Gardener, Rod McKusick's response to a similar question by going to: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-October/005473.html Generally, perennial rye grass is used. The link in the response above takes you to the Master Gardener manual where options are discussed. Sue Bass Master Gardener Phi722@aol.com wrote: > What type of grass should I overseed with for this winter and when should I overseed? > > How should I prepare the ground for the overseed? > > Thank you! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From gillv@home.com Wed Oct 3 00:04:56 2001 From: gillv@home.com (gillv@home.com) Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 17:04:56 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110030004.f9304uP15716@Ag.arizona.edu> I have noticed my Bermuda(santa ana)grass, under the ficus tree, has been dying and leaving a big bald spot extending out. That area is frequented by rabbits and used to be full of rabbit feces till the grass was there. I have noticed in other yards too that grass around rabbit feces is dying. Do rabbits transmit a disease or something else is affecting the grass. Thank You. From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Wed Oct 3 03:12:26 2001 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 20:12:26 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Blocking out Bermuda grass In-Reply-To: <000c01c14a42$65b767e0$c982b5d1@pavilion> Message-ID: <20011003031226.4535.qmail@web14912.mail.yahoo.com> You can get roof flashing at home depot in the roofing dept. I'll guess it cost about $12-$15 for a roll about 18" by 20 feet. --- Starlene Stewart wrote: > Hi Jack, thanks, hey can you give me an idea of who > sells > aluminum roof flashing and do have any idea of how > much it costs? > > Thanks, > Starlene > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "jack blake" > To: "Starlene Stewart" > Cc: > Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2001 9:06 PM > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Blocking out Bermuda > grass > > > > I reccomend aluminum roof flashing (18") tall. > Bury it > > straight down about 17" and place your edging > against > > the inch or so sticking out of the ground. It > works > > well and lasts years.For nutsedge, the best thing > I've > > used is "Manage". It can take more than one > > application but it works and only on nutgrass. > Very > > expensive!! > > > > > > > > --- Starlene Stewart wrote: > > > Hi, > > > > > > Someone asked recently about what to do about > > > getting rid of > > > Bermuda to plant an herb garden. > > > > > > What I've always done is dig out the area > completely > > > and gone > > > through shovelful by shovelful taking out every > > > little piece of > > > Bermuda I could find. I understand if only one > > > rhizome is left > > > then you will have a problem. This is a very > > > time-consuming > > > task. > > > > > > A friend of mine built a screen using wood and > > > hardware cloth. > > > He used 2x4s and cut them to make a frame that > is 2 > > > feet square. > > > He attached one-quarter inch hardware cloth to > that > > > and he puts > > > in several shovelfuls of dirt and then shakes > the > > > strainer back > > > and forth over a wheelbarrow. He tosses out the > > > grass, roots and > > > large rocks. This process appears to be > effortless > > > for him, but > > > I've tried it and I just don't have the strength > or > > > stamina that > > > he does. > > > > > > What I've done over the years to block the > bermuda > > > from creeping > > > into the garden is to line the sides with 2x4's. > > > But these > > > aren't very effective as the Bermuda tends to > creep > > > over or grow > > > under. > > > > > > I have Bermuda grass in my front yard, and > didn't > > > want my rose > > > bush choked out by the grass. I found some > aluminum > > > flashing > > > that someone had thrown away, and had it trimmed > and > > > fixed to > > > make a round circle. It is about 8 inches wide, > and > > > I have > > > buried it under the ground about 4 inches which > left > > > 4 inches on > > > top. This works very very well at keeping the > > > Bermuda out of the > > > rose bush bed. > > > > > > What are some other suggestions for keeping the > > > Bermuda at bay? > > > I keep thinking there must be some very > effective, > > > inexpensive > > > thing to use that I am overlooking. I have seen > > > that Home Depot > > > has some type of bordering rolled up, about 4 > inches > > > in width, > > > but that wouldn't work well enough. I find that > I > > > need a border > > > that is at least 8 inches wide, so that I can > bury a > > > good portion > > > underground and then the Bermuda can't creep > over > > > the top. > > > > > > I'm also fighting nutgrass, what a nightmare! > > > > > > I guess I'm thinking of going to a sheet metal > type > > > place and see > > > if I can buy a roll of aluminum flashing that I > > > could bury around > > > the perimeter of my garden after I've eradicated > the > > > Bermuda > > > within. > > > > > > As a last resort, I'm thinking of buying a > gallon of > > > Round-up, > > > but I don't like using pesticides, although it > does > > > seem much > > > simpler than sifting through all that dirt, and > then > > > using the > > > Round-up to keep the Bermuda out of the garden > as > > > well. > > > > > > Any suggestions are welcomed! Thank in advance. > > > > > > Starlene > > > Phoenix, AZ > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > > __________________________________________________ > > Do You Yahoo!? > > Listen to your Yahoo! Mail messages from any > phone. > > http://phone.yahoo.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Listen to your Yahoo! Mail messages from any phone. http://phone.yahoo.com From sjbass@qwest.net Wed Oct 3 03:47:04 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 20:47:04 -0700 Subject: [Fwd: [Arid_gardener] Overseeding for winter] Message-ID: <3BBA8A37.FB2B99AF@qwest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------3FF3461898EE8FC05D4089BE Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Any comments? --------------3FF3461898EE8FC05D4089BE Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: sjbass@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 74790 invoked by uid 0); 3 Oct 2001 03:28:12 -0000 Received: from mail1.uswest.net (63.226.138.1) by phnxpop2.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 3 Oct 2001 03:28:12 -0000 Received: (qmail 74518 invoked by uid 0); 3 Oct 2001 03:28:11 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO falcon.mail.pas.earthlink.net) (207.217.120.74) by mail1.uswest.net with SMTP; 3 Oct 2001 03:28:11 -0000 Received: from 0f1by (cpe-24-221-130-99.az.sprintbbd.net [24.221.130.99]) by falcon.mail.pas.earthlink.net (8.11.5/8.9.3) with SMTP id f933S8615152 for ; Tue, 2 Oct 2001 20:28:08 -0700 (PDT) Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 20:33:16 -0700 Message-ID: <001201c14bbc$296982c0$6382dd18@phoenix.speedchoice.com> From: "Mark Mittelstaedt" To: "Sue Bass" References: <200110022234.f92MYnP09905@Ag.arizona.edu> <3BBA4D5C.313AB204@qwest.net> Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Overseeding for winter MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 I have found the perennial grass to come in somewhat coarser-bladed / wider leaves, very similar to nut grass. Has anyone else observed the same thing ? ----- Original Message ----- From: Sue Bass To: Cc: Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2001 4:27 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Overseeding for winter > You can view fellow Master Gardener, Rod McKusick's response to a similar question by > going to: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-October/005473.html > Generally, perennial rye grass is used. The link in the response above takes you to the > Master Gardener manual where options are discussed. > Sue Bass > Master Gardener > Phi722@aol.com wrote: > > > What type of grass should I overseed with for this winter and when should I overseed? > > > > How should I prepare the ground for the overseed? > > > > Thank you! > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener --------------3FF3461898EE8FC05D4089BE-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Oct 3 15:23:32 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2001 08:23:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pesticide Changes Message-ID: <3BBB2D73.3C07FDBF@qwest.net> Jack, I know that while we were at the MG University in Tucson we were advised of the loss of diazinon and another pesticide. The topic came up with regard to a recent question about agave collapse. I can't find my notes, nor is my memory too good on the matter, but I recall your knowing what was happening from our recent desert plant training at the DBG. Can you fill us in on what is being taken off the market, when this will occur, if this is just for homeowners or commercial ops as well, and what is being promoted as a suitable substitute? Thanks in advance for your reply. Linda From utopia95@aol.com Wed Oct 3 15:54:24 2001 From: utopia95@aol.com (utopia95@aol.com) Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 08:54:24 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110031554.f93FsOP27873@Ag.arizona.edu> I know that Gardenias need a special type of fertilizer...What kind is it and how often should it be applied...Thanking you in advance, Diane From doryvan@aol.com Wed Oct 3 16:18:04 2001 From: doryvan@aol.com (doryvan@aol.com) Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 09:18:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110031618.f93GI4P03857@Ag.arizona.edu> Exposed citrus tree branches were wrapped with burlap early last summer to protect them from sunburn. Should the burlap be removed from the branches when the daytime temperatures stay below 100 degrees? Is there a place to get information about the subject? From pagamcan@aol.com Wed Oct 3 18:58:44 2001 From: pagamcan@aol.com (pagamcan@aol.com) Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 11:58:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110031858.f93IwiP08865@Ag.arizona.edu> We need some tips and help in growing tomatoes in central Phx. My very italian huband is nearly retired and I guess its a cultural obsession for old italians!!! After readind some guides in the Ariz Republic, we planted 3 varieies in our small back your. Tthink they were "earl girls, champions and the tiny yello pear". My husband hours preparing the soil according to direction. They are in a place where they will only get full sun for about 3 hours. They look good so far, but its only been five day; Whhere do we go from here to produce some good fruit. I think my husband will suffer depression and maybe more if they all die - I believe theres some unwritten law in his culture -Like the most verile men produce prolific! I'm joking of course but there is truth to it! Thanks so much for any guidance you can provide.........Sharon Cannataro 602-230-1638 From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Oct 3 22:52:56 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 18:52:56 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus with wrapped branches Message-ID: <5f.1bb6b3e5.28ecf0c8@aol.com> --part1_5f.1bb6b3e5.28ecf0c8_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If foliage on your citrus tree has grown enough to shade the branches then you can remove the burlap, if not then the burlap should not be removed. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_5f.1bb6b3e5.28ecf0c8_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If foliage on your citrus tree has grown enough to shade the branches then you can remove the burlap, if not then the burlap should not be removed.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_5f.1bb6b3e5.28ecf0c8_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Oct 3 22:52:57 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 18:52:57 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bermuda grass in the shade Message-ID: <161.1dc0f52.28ecf0c9@aol.com> --part1_161.1dc0f52.28ecf0c9_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bermuda grass requires nearly full sun to remain healthy which probably accounts for your bare spot under the tree. The rabbit feces is probably very high in nitrogen which is burning the bermuda. In this case it is strike two and the bermuda is out. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_161.1dc0f52.28ecf0c9_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bermuda grass requires nearly full sun to remain healthy which probably accounts for your bare spot under the tree. The rabbit feces is probably very high in nitrogen which is burning the bermuda. In this case it is strike two and the bermuda is out.

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener

--part1_161.1dc0f52.28ecf0c9_boundary-- From rtk540@worldnet.att.net Thu Oct 4 00:24:20 2001 From: rtk540@worldnet.att.net (rtk540@worldnet.att.net) Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 17:24:20 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110040024.f940OKP28004@Ag.arizona.edu> We have a hybred grass which I believe is Midiron. It was very successful when we put it in as sod, however as the trees above it have matured it has started to die out. Do you have any recomendations on how to rejuvinate the grass or for a replacement? From rtk540@worldnet.att.net Thu Oct 4 00:38:08 2001 From: rtk540@worldnet.att.net (rtk540@worldnet.att.net) Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 17:38:08 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110040038.f940c8P29591@Ag.arizona.edu> We have an olive tree which is supposed to be fruitless. It is not. When it was young we used Monteray Fruit Eliminator and it was satisfactory, however now it no longer seems to work at all. Do you have any suggestions for another product? Also, would this be effective on bottle tree fruit? Thanks Brian From journies@worldnet.att.net Thu Oct 4 02:36:11 2001 From: journies@worldnet.att.net (journies@worldnet.att.net) Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 19:36:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110040236.f942aBP12112@Ag.arizona.edu> Is there a website for desert trees? From stange@dakotacom.net Thu Oct 4 03:36:30 2001 From: stange@dakotacom.net (stange@dakotacom.net) Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 20:36:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110040336.f943aUP21244@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a waxleaf privet and the leaves are turning brown and they have a white stuff on them. How should it be watered and what for fertilizer. From rcdemark@aol.com Thu Oct 4 16:36:30 2001 From: rcdemark@aol.com (rcdemark@aol.com) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 09:36:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110041636.f94GaUP26480@Ag.arizona.edu> Do you have any suggestions for the control of Rabbits eating the garden? Ropel doesn't have any effect on them. From sjbass@qwest.net Thu Oct 4 16:50:28 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 09:50:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rabbit Management References: <200110041636.f94GaUP26480@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BBC9354.4784E4B0@qwest.net> Two suggestions for you: First, the following link will take you to the University of AZ's publication on rabbit management http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/animals/rabbit.htm Next, if you go into our archives you will find many discussions with many different suggestions for dealing with rabbits. To view these discussions, go to: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/ and type in Rabbits. Sue Bass Master Gardener rcdemark@aol.com wrote: > Do you have any suggestions for the control of Rabbits eating the garden? Ropel doesn't have any effect on them. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Oct 4 23:02:03 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 16:02:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Chainfruit Cholla Growth Habit References: <200109252019.f8PKJjP21718@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BBCEA6B.6A0CEBE1@qwest.net> I don't know why the plant does so, but quoting Landscape Plants for Dry Regions: "Small green fruit usually remain on plant, blooming from last year's fruit to form drooping chains of fruit. If broken off, fruit will take root where they fall and start a new plant." As to the why of this, maybe the DBG's plant hotline can be of help [M-F, 10:00 to 11:30 am, 480/941-1225]. Linda Guy, MG fziemann@hotmail.com wrote: > By what process is it possible, for the Chain Fruit Cholla to keep adding on to the top of the previous year's fruit. In most plants, after the fruit ripens, it falls off, but the Chian Fruit Cholla's fruit does not, it stays and the next season another fruit grows on top. How can this happen? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Oct 4 23:11:12 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 16:11:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning Bougainvilleas and Fairy Dusters References: <200109270256.f8R2uqP28065@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BBCEC90.ADACEA4C@qwest.net> Bougainvilleas are first pruned to remove cold-damaged growth after the threat of frost has passed in the spring. They may also require subsequent shaping during the growth season to keep the branches under control. The red or Baja Fairy Duster [Calliandra californica] is usually lightly pruned late spring since more severe pruning can inhibit flowering. This is sometimes necessary, however, if the plant gets leggy. Does not like pruning in hot weather. Pink Fairy Dusters [Calliandra eriophylla] require little pruning, since they are so much more compact and are nicely shaped. If needed, May is again a good time. I've never pruned any of my pinks, whereas my reds have needed the shaping assistance. Linda Guy, MG marymei@attglobal.net wrote: > How do I prune Fairy Dusters and Bouginvea? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Oct 4 23:18:53 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 16:18:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Improving Grape Production References: <200109271755.f8RHtVP14478@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BBCEE5D.D45C9490@qwest.net> Vines require particular pruning and grape clusters should be reduced about 1/3 just after blooming. Fertilization and watering are also factors. Check out our publication on backyard grapes, which can be ordered with the instructions at the top of this link: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm You'll find the publication MC-59 under Fruits & Nuts. MC-90 also contains information on selecting varieties, if that is of interest to you. Linda Guy, MG kkturner@srpnet.com wrote: > My 3 year old Thompson Seedless grapes only produce grapes smaller than peas. What do I need to do to produce a 'bunch of grapes'? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From crsanchez@att.net Thu Oct 4 23:42:18 2001 From: crsanchez@att.net (crsanchez@att.net) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 16:42:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110042342.f94NgIP07360@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a tiff lawn and this creeping weed has spread thought the my lawn, and taken over in some areas. It has small leaves, spreads quickly, and leaves a sticky residue on your fingers when I pull the weed. Either ants are attracted to it or they spread it, but there are ants in conjunction with this weed. What is this weed and how do I get rid of it? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Oct 5 00:57:03 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 20:57:03 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bermuda Grass in the shade Message-ID: <150.2059e4f.28ee5f5f@aol.com> --part1_150.2059e4f.28ee5f5f_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bermuda grass requires nearly full sun in order to stay healthy. Grasses that can be grown in the shade here in the low desert are tall fescue, st augustine and dichondra. However with these grasses you will not be able to over seed with rye for winter grass. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener . --part1_150.2059e4f.28ee5f5f_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bermuda grass requires nearly full sun in order to stay healthy. Grasses that can be grown in the shade here in the low desert are tall fescue, st augustine and dichondra. However with these grasses you will not be able to over seed with rye for winter grass.

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener .

--part1_150.2059e4f.28ee5f5f_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Oct 5 00:57:08 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 20:57:08 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Desert Trees Message-ID: <11b.5621dcf.28ee5f64@aol.com> --part1_11b.5621dcf.28ee5f64_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Try this website for desert trees: http://www.aridzonetrees.com/treesin.htm Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_11b.5621dcf.28ee5f64_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Try this website for desert trees: http://www.aridzonetrees.com/treesin.htm

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_11b.5621dcf.28ee5f64_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Oct 5 00:57:10 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 20:57:10 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Olive fruit eliminator Message-ID: <1e.1c3ff0cf.28ee5f66@aol.com> --part1_1e.1c3ff0cf.28ee5f66_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Olive Stop is one product that is supposed to eliminate the fruit when applied according to directions. There are several others on the market, why not check with your favorite nursery. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_1e.1c3ff0cf.28ee5f66_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Olive Stop is one product that is supposed to eliminate the fruit when applied according to directions. There are several others on the market, why not check with your favorite nursery.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_1e.1c3ff0cf.28ee5f66_boundary-- From gemlenz@aol.com Fri Oct 5 01:14:16 2001 From: gemlenz@aol.com (gemlenz@aol.com) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 18:14:16 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110050114.f951EGP20669@Ag.arizona.edu> Last year we had a bumper crop on our lemon tree. This year there is not much. I didn't change what I was doing. What happened? Also, when is the best time to prune. From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Fri Oct 5 01:41:44 2001 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 18:41:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200110031554.f93FsOP27873@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20011005014144.54648.qmail@web14906.mail.yahoo.com> Gardenias need an acid ic soil. Ours is alkiline so you must lower the PH to make the plant more comfortable. To do this you must add soil sulfur to the soil to lower the PH and use fertilizers that contain sulfur or are for acid loving plants. Read the labels and they tell the story. --- utopia95@aol.com wrote: > I know that Gardenias need a special type of > fertilizer...What kind is it and how often should it > be applied...Thanking you in advance, Diane > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? NEW from Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month. http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1 From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Fri Oct 5 01:47:57 2001 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 18:47:57 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200110031618.f93GI4P03857@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20011005014757.8935.qmail@web14910.mail.yahoo.com> You answered your own question. the porpose for wrapping citrus is to protect the bark from sunburn not temperature. If the trunk is shaded and its 120 degrees, you are protecting the bark from sunburn. --- doryvan@aol.com wrote: > Exposed citrus tree branches were wrapped with > burlap early last summer to protect them from > sunburn. > Should the burlap be removed from the branches when > the daytime temperatures stay below 100 degrees? > Is there a place to get information about the > subject? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? NEW from Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month. http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1 From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Fri Oct 5 01:56:05 2001 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 18:56:05 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200110040024.f940OKP28004@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20011005015605.58828.qmail@web14906.mail.yahoo.com> Your hybred is a type of bermuda. Bermuda will not grow in shade. Here are some choices: 1- raise the skirt of the tree and thin out some of its intenal growth(don't overdo it). 2-convert the area under the tree to a bed of low water use plants.(the water needs should be close to that of the tree) 3-Plant a shade grass like fesque or dicondra. 4- on a more drastic thought, you can cut the tree down. My choice would be # 1 --- rtk540@worldnet.att.net wrote: > We have a hybred grass which I believe is > Midiron. It was very successful when we put > it in as sod, however as the trees above it > have matured it has started to die out. > Do you have any recomendations on how to > rejuvinate the grass or for a replacement? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? NEW from Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month. http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1 From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Fri Oct 5 02:00:22 2001 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 19:00:22 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200110040038.f940c8P29591@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20011005020022.51900.qmail@web14908.mail.yahoo.com> The product you want to use is called FLOREL, I don't recall who makes it but you can get at most nurseries. It should be applied in two applications,the first on thr south side of the tree and then thesecond onthe north side as each side will flower at different times. Follow the directions. --- rtk540@worldnet.att.net wrote: > We have an olive tree which is supposed to > be fruitless. It is not. When it was young > we used Monteray Fruit Eliminator and it > was satisfactory, however now it no longer > seems to work at all. Do you have any > suggestions for another product? Also, > would this be effective on bottle tree fruit? > > Thanks > Brian > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? NEW from Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month. http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1 From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Fri Oct 5 02:06:30 2001 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 19:06:30 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200110042342.f94NgIP07360@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20011005020630.78487.qmail@web14904.mail.yahoo.com> Sounds like spurge. It is a broad leaf weed and any weed killer for lawns should wipe it out.These herbicides kill broad leaf plants so if you get it on the wife's roses, leave town. best applied in the cool temps of the am. I suggest a liquid for faster results. You might want to apply a preemergent to prevent the seeds of the weed growing.Remember, follow the directions --- crsanchez@att.net wrote: > I have a tiff lawn and this creeping weed has spread > thought the my lawn, and taken over in some areas. > It has small leaves, spreads quickly, and leaves a > sticky residue on your fingers when I pull the weed. > Either ants are attracted to it or they spread it, > but there are ants in conjunction with this weed. > What is this weed and how do I get rid of it? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > === message truncated === __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? NEW from Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month. http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1 From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Oct 5 02:17:08 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 02:17:08 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] lawn, prostrate weed Message-ID: I am not a turf expert. Here are some suggestions. The weed you are describing could be spotted spurge -- it is an annual; flat on the ground, stems form a circular mat from a single taproot. It is aggressive and has a milky sap. The best control is to create a healthy and vigorous lawn with proper care. This weed will die out during the winter, but will grow from seed in the spring, so you will want to apply a pre-emergent in early spring. The ants find shelter unter the broad circular mat. Linda Drew MFrom: crsanchez@att.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 16:42:18 -0700 (MST) > >I have a tiff lawn and this creeping weed has spread thought the my lawn, >and taken over in some areas. It has small leaves, spreads quickly, and >leaves a sticky residue on your fingers when I pull the weed. Either ants >are attracted to it or they spread it, but there are ants in conjunction >with this weed. What is this weed and how do I get rid of it? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From hoboen2001@yahoo.com Fri Oct 5 02:24:55 2001 From: hoboen2001@yahoo.com (hoboen2001@yahoo.com) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 19:24:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110050224.f952OtP04345@Ag.arizona.edu> What is the expiration time, shelf life, of vegetable/flower seeds? I have some (a lot) that were packed in 1985. Thanks From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Oct 5 02:27:25 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 02:27:25 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] privet, white on leaves Message-ID: The white stuff on the leaves might be an insect, like scale, or a fungus, like powdery mildew. Take a sample to your nearest Cooperative Extension Office for a positive ID. Read the Master Gardener Manual, chapter on irrigation, for more information about proper watering. http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/irrigation/ You will want to apply a nitrogen fertilizer in the spring. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: stange@dakotacom.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 20:36:30 -0700 (MST) > >I have a waxleaf privet and the leaves are turning brown and they have a >white stuff on them. How should it be watered and what for fertilizer. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listin _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Oct 5 02:30:25 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 02:30:25 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] desert trees Message-ID: There are a number of websites that include information about desert trees. You mighht want to start with http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening What specific information are you interest in ---- selection, care, pictures?? Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: journies@worldnet.att.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 19:36:11 -0700 (MST) > >Is there a website for desert trees? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From sjbass@qwest.net Fri Oct 5 05:15:30 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 22:15:30 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Shelf life of seeds References: <200110050224.f952OtP04345@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BBD41F2.CB7E8E86@qwest.net> From what I have read, it all depends on the seed and where it has been stored. If they have been stored in a cool, dry place, they might be fine. Why not try planting them? Check out a similar question and responses at Garden Web http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/seed/msg0821131527880.html Many people tell stories of planting some pretty old seeds and having them germinate. Sue Bass Master Gardener hoboen2001@yahoo.com wrote: > What is the expiration time, shelf life, of vegetable/flower seeds? I have some (a lot) that were packed in 1985. Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From ragtop@onr.com Fri Oct 5 10:54:03 2001 From: ragtop@onr.com (ragtop@onr.com) Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 03:54:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110051054.f95As3P01548@Ag.arizona.edu> Where can I get some Candlewood Ocotillo (Fouquieria Splendens)? thanks From phygen@yahoo.com Fri Oct 5 11:52:14 2001 From: phygen@yahoo.com (Figen...) Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 04:52:14 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] info please Message-ID: <20011005115214.20831.qmail@web10801.mail.yahoo.com> --0-1666441175-1002282734=:20562 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Dear Sir, i am an university student in Turkey.I study Plant pathology and my branch is weeds science.i need some info about some subjects but i cant find it in my country because no one has studied about this subject before, here.so i thought the best is to write u and have info from u if it is possible.my subject is; how does the frost effect the weeds in citrus gardens...do weeds lower the frost injury on citrus trees or not?or dont weeds effect the frost injury in citrus gardens.. if u can give me some info about it i will so glad.. thank u very much your sincerelly FiGeN --------------------------------- Do You Yahoo!? NEW from Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month. Yahoo! by Phone. --0-1666441175-1002282734=:20562 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

Dear Sir,

if u can give me some info about it i will so glad..

thank u very much

your sincerelly

FiGeN

Does anybody have = any=20 ideas?

Thanks in advance=20 -

Ursula Miller

Please = sign me to=20 your mailing list

Jackee