From PERFLOWERS@aol.com Mon Oct 1 00:02:59 2001 From: PERFLOWERS@aol.com (PERFLOWERS@aol.com) Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 20:02:59 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Blocking out Bermuda grass Message-ID: Starlene, There is a product called "Manage" that kills nutgrass. The nice thing about it is that it kills only nutgrass - it doesn't bother anything else it is sprayed on. I had about a 12 x 12 area that had nutgrass growing in it for about 3 years. I finally got around to spraying "Manage" on it several weeks ago. It killed about 1/3 of it, so I am going out to spray again tomorrow. I may have to spray a third time, but that is my own fault because I let the nut grass get so far ahead of me. The saleswoman told me that it doesn't work very well once the temperature goes below 85 degrees. Round-up kills Bermuda grass, but you have to be careful with using the spray. I killed a Mt Lemon Marigold because I think the spray drifted over from another plant I was spraying. I also have a couple of undesirable bushes growing in with a desirable bush. I bent a branch of the undesirable bush to the ground and anchored it down with a rock - then sprayed the branch with Round-up. It killed only the branch I had held down with the rock - I was hoping it would kill the whole undesirable bush. I am going to fill a small sprayer with pure Round-up and spray it on a couple more branches and see if it will kill them quicker. Bermuda grass roots go very deep and somehow always manages to creep in where you don't want it. Val From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Oct 1 00:30:21 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 20:30:21 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ants taking off with worms Message-ID: <11d.5109490.28e9131d@aol.com> --part1_11d.5109490.28e9131d_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Beverly, Sprinkle some cream of wheat on your plot where the ants are located. The ants will eat it and swell up and good by ants. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_11d.5109490.28e9131d_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Beverly,

Sprinkle some cream of wheat on your plot where the ants are located. The ants will eat it and swell up and good by ants.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_11d.5109490.28e9131d_boundary-- From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Mon Oct 1 04:06:15 2001 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 21:06:15 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Blocking out Bermuda grass In-Reply-To: <012c01c149f0$5ab9f6c0$e8c8e13f@pavilion> Message-ID: <20011001040615.73187.qmail@web14903.mail.yahoo.com> I reccomend aluminum roof flashing (18") tall. Bury it straight down about 17" and place your edging against the inch or so sticking out of the ground. It works well and lasts years.For nutsedge, the best thing I've used is "Manage". It can take more than one application but it works and only on nutgrass. Very expensive!! --- Starlene Stewart wrote: > Hi, > > Someone asked recently about what to do about > getting rid of > Bermuda to plant an herb garden. > > What I've always done is dig out the area completely > and gone > through shovelful by shovelful taking out every > little piece of > Bermuda I could find. I understand if only one > rhizome is left > then you will have a problem. This is a very > time-consuming > task. > > A friend of mine built a screen using wood and > hardware cloth. > He used 2x4s and cut them to make a frame that is 2 > feet square. > He attached one-quarter inch hardware cloth to that > and he puts > in several shovelfuls of dirt and then shakes the > strainer back > and forth over a wheelbarrow. He tosses out the > grass, roots and > large rocks. This process appears to be effortless > for him, but > I've tried it and I just don't have the strength or > stamina that > he does. > > What I've done over the years to block the bermuda > from creeping > into the garden is to line the sides with 2x4's. > But these > aren't very effective as the Bermuda tends to creep > over or grow > under. > > I have Bermuda grass in my front yard, and didn't > want my rose > bush choked out by the grass. I found some aluminum > flashing > that someone had thrown away, and had it trimmed and > fixed to > make a round circle. It is about 8 inches wide, and > I have > buried it under the ground about 4 inches which left > 4 inches on > top. This works very very well at keeping the > Bermuda out of the > rose bush bed. > > What are some other suggestions for keeping the > Bermuda at bay? > I keep thinking there must be some very effective, > inexpensive > thing to use that I am overlooking. I have seen > that Home Depot > has some type of bordering rolled up, about 4 inches > in width, > but that wouldn't work well enough. I find that I > need a border > that is at least 8 inches wide, so that I can bury a > good portion > underground and then the Bermuda can't creep over > the top. > > I'm also fighting nutgrass, what a nightmare! > > I guess I'm thinking of going to a sheet metal type > place and see > if I can buy a roll of aluminum flashing that I > could bury around > the perimeter of my garden after I've eradicated the > Bermuda > within. > > As a last resort, I'm thinking of buying a gallon of > Round-up, > but I don't like using pesticides, although it does > seem much > simpler than sifting through all that dirt, and then > using the > Round-up to keep the Bermuda out of the garden as > well. > > Any suggestions are welcomed! Thank in advance. > > Starlene > Phoenix, AZ > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Listen to your Yahoo! Mail messages from any phone. http://phone.yahoo.com From drgarnett@msn.com Mon Oct 1 06:09:58 2001 From: drgarnett@msn.com (Donald Garnett) Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 23:09:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] ornamental pepper Message-ID: ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C14A05.065F8620 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" We have had an ornamental pepper in a container on a back patio through the past two winters here in Tucson without problems, moving it out into a place where it gets as much sun as possible. I suspect yours will survive also if it is healthy. If you're concerned about frost cover the plants with a plastic bag or a sheet on nights with frost/freeze warnings. Don Garnett ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C14A05.065F8620 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

We have had an= ornamental pepper in a container on a back patio

through the = past two winters here in Tucson without problems,

moving it o= ut into a place where it gets as much sun as possible.

I suspe= ct yours will survive also if it is healthy. If you're concerned

about frost cover the plants with a plastic bag or a sheet on nights

with frost/freeze warnings.

= Don Garnett

= ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C14A05.065F8620-- From Ranger1242@aol.com Mon Oct 1 12:53:31 2001 From: Ranger1242@aol.com (Ranger1242@aol.com) Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 05:53:31 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110011253.f91CrVP17891@Ag.arizona.edu> At the home and garden show I noticed many booths dedicated to deep feeding and curing sick queen palms. I know each case is different, but typically in the valley what is wrong when new palm fronds go brown in what appears to be a healthy tree. Also what signs should I look for when diagnosing a problem with a queen palm. Thank you! From outside@jillandken.net Mon Oct 1 15:32:21 2001 From: outside@jillandken.net (outside@jillandken.net) Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 08:32:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110011532.f91FWLP05561@Ag.arizona.edu> I have three trees in my backyard which seem to be dying. I believe the trees are: Ash, Plum, and Peach. Basically, all the leaves have fallen off of all three trees. They are near two Evergreen Elms which are doing just fine. The are on a sprinkler system and therefore get watered along with the grass (i.e., I'm fairly certain they are getting enough water). thanks for any help Jill From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Oct 1 18:14:21 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2001 11:14:21 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Blocking out Bermuda grass References: <012c01c149f0$5ab9f6c0$e8c8e13f@pavilion> Message-ID: <3BB8B27D.63B32F89@qwest.net> Most of us use barrier methods like your aluminum flashing. Although glyphosate [did I spell that right? aka Roundup] is effective with bermuda, I understand that Manage is better for your nutsedge problem. Even so, it will require a few applications, and your diligence. Linda Guy, MG Starlene Stewart wrote: > Hi, > > Someone asked recently about what to do about getting rid of > Bermuda to plant an herb garden. > > What I've always done is dig out the area completely and gone > through shovelful by shovelful taking out every little piece of > Bermuda I could find. I understand if only one rhizome is left > then you will have a problem. This is a very time-consuming > task. > > A friend of mine built a screen using wood and hardware cloth. > He used 2x4s and cut them to make a frame that is 2 feet square. > He attached one-quarter inch hardware cloth to that and he puts > in several shovelfuls of dirt and then shakes the strainer back > and forth over a wheelbarrow. He tosses out the grass, roots and > large rocks. This process appears to be effortless for him, but > I've tried it and I just don't have the strength or stamina that > he does. > > What I've done over the years to block the bermuda from creeping > into the garden is to line the sides with 2x4's. But these > aren't very effective as the Bermuda tends to creep over or grow > under. > > I have Bermuda grass in my front yard, and didn't want my rose > bush choked out by the grass. I found some aluminum flashing > that someone had thrown away, and had it trimmed and fixed to > make a round circle. It is about 8 inches wide, and I have > buried it under the ground about 4 inches which left 4 inches on > top. This works very very well at keeping the Bermuda out of the > rose bush bed. > > What are some other suggestions for keeping the Bermuda at bay? > I keep thinking there must be some very effective, inexpensive > thing to use that I am overlooking. I have seen that Home Depot > has some type of bordering rolled up, about 4 inches in width, > but that wouldn't work well enough. I find that I need a border > that is at least 8 inches wide, so that I can bury a good portion > underground and then the Bermuda can't creep over the top. > > I'm also fighting nutgrass, what a nightmare! > > I guess I'm thinking of going to a sheet metal type place and see > if I can buy a roll of aluminum flashing that I could bury around > the perimeter of my garden after I've eradicated the Bermuda > within. > > As a last resort, I'm thinking of buying a gallon of Round-up, > but I don't like using pesticides, although it does seem much > simpler than sifting through all that dirt, and then using the > Round-up to keep the Bermuda out of the garden as well. > > Any suggestions are welcomed! Thank in advance. > > Starlene > Phoenix, AZ > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Oct 1 18:25:46 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2001 11:25:46 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grape Damage References: <200109291936.f8TJaCP04541@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BB8B52A.C6090FF3@qwest.net> Most caterpillars are controlled with a biological product called Bt or http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/clubs.htm Here are some links to discussions on a grape pest, the grape leaf skeletonizer, whose colors don't precisely match what you've described. You could identify the skeletonizer with photos at the second link. http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/insects/westgrapeskeletonizer.html http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/insects/stingingcaterpillars.html When I took my MG training years ago, I being told remember that grapes for the homeowner was a more difficult challenge than a commercial endeavor. In the latter, the field's perimeter tends to sustain the worst damage, leaving the interior to harvest. A homeowner has no such advantage. Don't know if this is true, but it is was I remember. Linda Guy, MG pmbarker0304@hotmail.com wrote: > I have a grape arbor, and it was lush this year. Then beautiful midnight blue moths, created beautiful yellow and blue caterpillars which decimated my arbor before I knew it. How can I share the arbor with nature, and minimize plant and fruit loss? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Oct 1 18:45:32 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2001 11:45:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fish Hook Barrel Cactus References: <200109150339.f8F3dcH28265@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BB8B9CC.98D38AD2@qwest.net> It looks like you haven't received a reply yet. There is more experience with members of the cactus and succulent world at the Desert Botanical Gardens. They have a plant hotline weekdays, 10 - 11:30 am, 480/941-1225. Sorry we weren't able to help. Linda Guy, MG beej17@earthlink.net wrote: > I have had a fish hook barrel cactus in my yard for 20 years.It did not bloom last year and it looks like it isn't going to bloom this year either, although it has some buds. > What could be the problem? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Oct 1 18:56:48 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2001 11:56:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grape Damage References: <200109291936.f8TJaCP04541@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BB8BC70.4835EA8E@qwest.net> This is a resend to correct information I errroneously copied into the first reply. My apologies. Most caterpillars are controlled with a biological product called Bt or bacillus thuringiensis. Here are some links to discussions on a grape pest, the grape leaf skeletonizer, whose colors don't precisely match what you've described. You could identify the skeletonizer with photos at the second link. http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/insects/westgrapeskeletonizer.html http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/insects/stingingcaterpillars.html When I took my MG training years ago, I being told remember that grapes for the homeowner was a more difficult challenge than a commercial endeavor. In the latter, the field's perimeter tends to sustain the worst damage, leaving the interior to harvest. A homeowner has no such advantage. Don't know if this is true, but it is was I remember. Linda Guy, MG pmbarker0304@hotmail.com wrote: > I have a grape arbor, and it was lush this year. Then beautiful midnight blue moths, created beautiful yellow and blue caterpillars which decimated my arbor before I knew it. How can I share the arbor with nature, and minimize plant and fruit loss? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From j_harrell@NetZero.net Mon Oct 1 19:42:14 2001 From: j_harrell@NetZero.net (Jackie and Bill Harrell) Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2001 12:42:14 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus fertilization Message-ID: <3BB8C716.81FD29DB@NetZero.net> Dear Master Gardener, Is it too late to give my mature Arizona Sweet tree 1 more cup of ammonium sulfate which I still owe it? The last feeding was May-June of 7 cups, but I'm late for this last one; still, it's been so hot - what do you think? Would it be o.k., or should I forget it? Jackie Harrell --------------------------------------------------------------- NetZero Platinum Only $9.95 per month! Sign up in September to win one of 30 Hawaiian Vacations for 2! http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97 From dthill@msn.com Mon Oct 1 21:12:46 2001 From: dthill@msn.com (dthill@msn.com) Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 14:12:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110012112.f91LCjP21195@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a Brazilian pepper tree infected with what I believe is verticillium wilt. What I have read indicates no cure and the fungus lasts for several years in the ground. What I would like to know is can the fungus be tranported to other plants in the yard and if so, how. Also, I would like to have two lists: 1) Shrubs and trees susceptible to the wilt, and 2) Shrubs and trees resistant to it. From se20113@aol.com Mon Oct 1 22:18:13 2001 From: se20113@aol.com (se20113@aol.com) Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 15:18:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110012218.f91MICP05586@Ag.arizona.edu> We have two Podranea ricasoliana (pink trumpet vine) planted on the South West exposure of our house. They keep yellowing and the leaves and most of the flower buds turn brown and drop off. They were planted in April of this year. What are we doing wrong? They are on our irrigation system. Thank you. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Oct 1 23:23:44 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 19:23:44 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Verticillium on a pepper tree Message-ID: --part1_bd.14d25777.28ea5500_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Are you sure that your pepper tree has Verticillium? Since the fungi that causes Verticillium is only active when temperatures are between 70 and 85 degrees F which means the symptoms usually only show up in the spring or fall. The pepper tree is very susceptable to Texas Root Rot and the symptoms are similiar except with TRR the roots rot and with V they do not. With TRR the leaves will usually stay on the tree. With V there is usually vascular discoloration in the roots and lower stems. Why not take a root sample ( finger size x 1 foot long ) to Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for an ID. While there pick up a bulletin on Verticillium and Texas Root Rot. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_bd.14d25777.28ea5500_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Are you sure that your pepper tree has Verticillium? Since the fungi that causes Verticillium is only active when temperatures are between 70 and 85 degrees F which means the symptoms usually only show up in the spring or fall.
The pepper tree is very susceptable to Texas Root Rot and the symptoms are similiar except with TRR the roots rot and with V they do not. With TRR the leaves will usually stay on the tree. With V there is usually vascular discoloration in the roots and lower stems.

Why not take a root sample ( finger size x 1 foot long ) to Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for an ID. While there pick up a bulletin on Verticillium and Texas Root Rot.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_bd.14d25777.28ea5500_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Oct 1 23:23:47 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 19:23:47 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Trees dying Message-ID: <97.1c0ac023.28ea5503@aol.com> --part1_97.1c0ac023.28ea5503_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jill, If the only water that your dying trees are getting is from the turf irrigation then your trees are most likely dying from drought stress. The water that you are applying to the grass is probably only penetrating 6 to 8 inches deep, the trees need water down to 3 feet deep. Lay a hose at the tree and let it run slowly overnight for proper irrigation. Check out this site for info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_97.1c0ac023.28ea5503_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jill,

If the only water that your dying trees are getting is from the turf irrigation then your trees are most likely dying from drought stress. The water that you are applying to the grass is probably only penetrating 6 to 8 inches deep, the trees need water down to 3 feet deep. Lay a hose at the tree and let it run slowly overnight for proper irrigation.

Check out this site for info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_97.1c0ac023.28ea5503_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Oct 1 23:23:45 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 19:23:45 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus fertilization Message-ID: <21.11f237f5.28ea5501@aol.com> --part1_21.11f237f5.28ea5501_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jackie, Go ahead and fertilize but do it right away. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_21.11f237f5.28ea5501_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jackie,

Go ahead and fertilize but do it right away.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_21.11f237f5.28ea5501_boundary-- From sigcon1@earthlink.net Tue Oct 2 01:10:13 2001 From: sigcon1@earthlink.net (sigcon1@earthlink.net) Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 18:10:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110020110.f921ADP05327@Ag.arizona.edu> Do you have information on u-pick farms and apple orchards in AZ? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Oct 2 02:24:24 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 02:24:24 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] u-pick farms Message-ID: regarding: U-pick farms and apple orchards in Arizona Call 1-888 PICKED-4U for information or to order a free copy of the "Arizona Farm To Family Directory". Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: sigcon1@earthlink.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 18:10:13 -0700 (MST) > >Do you have information on u-pick farms and apple orchards in AZ? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Oct 2 15:19:22 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 08:19:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Podranea ricasoliana [pink trumpet vine] References: <200110012218.f91MICP05586@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BB9DAF9.804A882A@qwest.net> Mary Irish writes in her book, Gardening in the Desert, that it should reach its peak bloom in October. Grows well in full sun on a hot wall [it appears you have it in a good exposure], although it can take partial shade and is not at all fussy about its soil. She suggests a light fertilization or application of manure in late summer if the leaves yellow, which evidently they do on occasion. She also notes that the plant may appear to sit still its first year in the ground, going gang-busters by its third season. A hard pruning should be done in January, before new growth which is where the blooms will appear. This suggest watering may be your issue. Mary suggests a deep soak [I'd suggest to 2'] every 5 days in summer. Jones/Sacamano's Landscape Plants for Dry Regions suggests an even less frequent application of water: every 1-2 weeks. With blooms dropping, I'm thinking that the water is either too much and/or too frequent. Try giving the root ball a chance to dry out, if it is soaked. Both sources suggest good drainage is needed as well as substantially cutting back on the water in winter [say 2-3x during the whole season]. Linda Guy, MG se20113@aol.com wrote: > We have two Podranea ricasoliana (pink trumpet vine) planted on the South West exposure of our house. They keep yellowing and the leaves and most of the flower buds turn brown and drop off. > They were planted in April of this year. > What are we doing wrong? They are on our irrigation system. > > Thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Oct 2 15:29:37 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 08:29:37 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palms References: <200110011253.f91CrVP17891@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BB9DD61.EAC57B6D@qwest.net> Queen palms give a lovely, tropical effect, which is why so many folks want them. But unfortunately, it is a poor choice for the low deserts of the Phoenix area which may explain why so many outfits are around, trying to help the homeowner with their management/care. They are not a desert palm, do not prefer our alkaline soils and sometimes suffer from our hot, dry winds. They're a better choice for the coast. We have a palm publication which you can access for general palm care as well as a discussion of the individual palms themselves at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Look for AZ 1021, in the ornamentals section. This palm likes extra nitrogen and iron, and is susceptible to manganese deficiency. A good palm blend of fertilizer should help alot. Linda Guy, MG Ranger1242@aol.com wrote: > At the home and garden show I noticed many booths dedicated to deep feeding and curing sick queen palms. I know each case is different, but typically in the valley what is wrong when new palm fronds go brown in what appears to be a healthy tree. Also what signs should I look for when diagnosing a problem with a queen palm. Thank you! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Oct 2 15:36:13 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 08:36:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Aptenia cordifolia [Hearts & Flowers] References: <200109172223.f8HMNuV09464@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BB9DEED.BE7E0A9E@qwest.net> Possible problems: Foot traffic [it tolerates none at all]. It requires more water than adjacent arid-landscape plants on its drip line [but still needs to dry out between waterings]. Needs excellent drainage, and prefers better quality soils [perhaps your soil is a bit 'tired' now after several seasons]. Plantings suffer and may die due to rot, if overwatered, especially during the monsoon [hot, humid] weather. Hope this helps. Linda Guy, MG tburrphx@aol.com wrote: > We have a bed behind our pool that we've planted with ice-plant groundcover ("hearts & flower"). Over the past few years it does really well in the spring and early summer -- then very quickly dies -- looks like it's burned or something in various areas. Certain plants seem OK, but huge areas are dry and dead. We've tried all kinds of sprinklers to assure that it's getting enough water -- but now it's dead again. Could it be burning? Or perhaps too much water that's causing some kind of fungus? HELP !!!! Many thanks! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Oct 2 15:45:02 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 08:45:02 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Prpagating Caesalpinia gillesii [Yellow Bird of Paradise] References: <200109212030.f8LKUhP08546@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BB9E0FE.E169CEFB@qwest.net> If you actually have the plant, it may be as simple as looking for 'volunteers' in the adjacent ground the following growth season, since this plant naturalizes quite freely from volunteer seedlings. Indeed, removing these unwanted seedlings will probably become an annual maintenance chore. [The plant's landscape value includes revegetation.] I've never tried to plant the seed, but would suggest a well-drained potting mix, since it prefers well-drained soil. Or plant the seed in place, remembering the ultimate size is 5-10 feet, in more of a tree form. It can grow in low to intermediate zones, but is not hardy in severe cold, dying back to the ground. Your level of precipitation is not much more than we receive in Phoenix. This looks nicer with some water in the summer, say every week or two. Linda Guy, MG rfjts@arn.net wrote: > How do I start desert Bird of Paradise (Caesalpinia gilliesii) from seed/ Will it grow in the Texas Panhandle (3200ft w/19in of rain annually)? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Oct 2 15:56:55 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 08:56:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plum varieties for Phoenix References: <200109212311.f8LNBlP11465@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BB9E3C7.DE9E8454@qwest.net> We have several fruit tree publications, including suitable varieties, at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Unfortunately, they are not online, and you will need to order them from the county extension office. Instructions are at this link. You will need to consider the number of chilling hours required [# hours below 45F]. Maricopa County averatges between 300-400 chilling hours per year. Find varieties that require no more than 250 to be safe. Also select varieties that will mature before the hot summer temps are upon us, else the fruit will sunburn. Finally, if you can only plant one tree, you will need to select a self-pollinating or self-fruitful variety. Those plums recommended for Maricopa County in our publication MC-90 are Beauty, Santa Rosa*, Methley, Gulf Gold* and Gulf Ruby*. [*have been evaluated and performed well in Salt River Valley.] Hope this is helpful. Linda Guy, MG rodgersmichael@qwest.net wrote: > Where can I find information on plum tree varieties that can thrive in the low desert? > > I am interested in a variety I grew up with in San Diego. I don't have the name of the plum, but a Wild Oats Store recently had a black plum called "Black Friar" that was very, very close to what I remember from my childhood. > > Thanks is advance, > > Michael > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Oct 2 16:22:56 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 09:22:56 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf for Shade References: <200109231530.f8NFUiP22119@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BB9E9E0.3EAB8F1A@qwest.net> I believe it to be a matter of shade. Bermuda doesn't grow wiithout sun. And you've indicated that the problem gets worse every year [as the trees grow larger] and it's worse in the front [where the trees are larger in size than those of your back yard]. Turf for shady sites is always an issue here. If you look carefully around any neighborhood with mature trees, you'll see limited vegetation of any kind beneath the tree canopy. St. Augustine is the option I'm most familiar with. I'm including a link to a similar reply, which is in the archives of our Q&A section. You can run your own query on truf for shade and see the others that come up. http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2001-March/006811.html Linda Guy, MG b.marcel@home.com wrote: > Hello, > I have a problem that has gotten progrssively worse each summer. I live in the north central corridor, around 7th Ave. and Northern. I have very large Arizona Ash trees in both my front and back yard. We have totally lost our front yard Bermuda lawn the past few years. The back is better, though there are some patches dead. Those trees are not as large as in the front. So, this year in May, we put in Fescue, on recommendation of Berridge's Nursery. It came in nicely, but by the end of July, even though we fertilized, it started to die. I have absolutely no grass, roots or anything left. The ground is damp, I have sprinklers. We do have some nettle weeds that I've tried to pull out. Now the weird part is, that we have had a beautiful winter lawn that has come in very nicely each fall. One nursery said they thought that with my shade and the Ash trees using so much water, that it has sucked the roots dry. Then, when the trees are dormant, the rye has water to grow. So! > meone else suggesed pearl scale, but that was not the problem last year. We are considering St. Augustine next spring, but I need a solution before we put any more money into this embarrassing mess! I appreciate any help. My phone # is 602-896-5751 at work, and 944-3693 at home, evenings. > Thank you again! > Brbara Marcellus > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From turtletop@aol.com Tue Oct 2 16:44:30 2001 From: turtletop@aol.com (turtletop@aol.com) Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 09:44:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110021644.f92GiUP18402@Ag.arizona.edu> I have discovered a small cut worms in some texans blue bell srubs. They have killed four of these plants. Can I use something to get rid of these worms, and can I replant in the same area? Thanks for any help. From bnd52@home.com Tue Oct 2 18:01:43 2001 From: bnd52@home.com (bnd52@home.com) Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 11:01:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110021801.f92I1gP05832@Ag.arizona.edu> I Have a valencia orange tree that is planted in a large pot. The leaves are starting to curl and the leaves appear to be wilting. What is the problem with the tree, if any. Your response will be appreciated. Thank you, Don Godwin ps. I live in Northwest Florida From fjsandjoyce@retired.com Tue Oct 2 20:21:35 2001 From: fjsandjoyce@retired.com (fjsandjoyce@retired.com) Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 13:21:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110022021.f92KLZP07308@Ag.arizona.edu> Need help in two areas as follows: 1) Looking for low growing flowering ground cover in 18" wide planter in front of block wall in which we have mini bottlebrush plants. Planter has "umbrella" type sprinklers which are adjustable up to 10 gallon of water per hour and come on when the lawn sprinklers come on. How much water should the mini bottlebrushes and recommened ground cover get vs the lawn? Should the shrub heads be changed to soaker type and if so what size? Would like to put in a couple of sage bushes for desert turtles to eat but how do they hold up to watering? Would like everything to be watered at same time and at same rate as lawn if possible. 2) Lawn soil is beginning to crack and some areas the grass will not grow. Birds are pecking at soil and putting holes in ground. Have tried bent grass, tall red fescue, rye, dicondra, bluegrass and same result- will grow for a while then patchs die off. Watering every other day for about 1/2 hour to a full hour depending of temperature. Have been fertilizing twice a year - same result. Have 2 large shade trees so need grass that will grow in shade and full sun. Is it possible that the soil is worn out? Is there any place to send soil samples to get soil tested? From fjsandjoyce@retired.com Tue Oct 2 20:23:50 2001 From: fjsandjoyce@retired.com (fjsandjoyce@retired.com) Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 13:23:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110022023.f92KNoP07827@Ag.arizona.edu> Need help in two areas as follows: 1) Looking for low growing flowering ground cover in 18" wide planter in front of block wall in which we have mini bottlebrush plants. Planter has "umbrella" type sprinklers which are adjustable up to 10 gallon of water per hour and come on when the lawn sprinklers come on. How much water should the mini bottlebrushes and recommened ground cover get vs the lawn? Should the shrub heads be changed to soaker type and if so what size? Would like to put in a couple of sage bushes for desert turtles to eat but how do they hold up to watering? Would like everything to be watered at same time and at same rate as lawn if possible. 2) Lawn soil is beginning to crack and some areas the grass will not grow. Birds are pecking at soil and putting holes in ground. Have tried bent grass, tall red fescue, rye, dicondra, bluegrass and same result- will grow for a while then patchs die off. Watering every other day for about 1/2 hour to a full hour depending of temperature. Have been fertilizing twice a year - same result. Have 2 large shade trees so need grass that will grow in shade and full sun. Is it possible that the soil is worn out? Is there any place to send soil samples to get soil tested? Thank You - Frank Steinmetz From donne@acumen2.net Tue Oct 2 20:51:37 2001 From: donne@acumen2.net (donne@acumen2.net) Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 13:51:37 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110022051.f92KpbP15193@Ag.arizona.edu> I have three centurian agaves in my yard, two in the front with no water and direct sun and one in the back with water and shade. All three are suffering from some type of rot or wilt. The bottom leaves die and turn brown and then the rest of the plant seems to topple. Help! I don't want to lose these plants. From sjbass@qwest.net Tue Oct 2 21:17:10 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 14:17:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Possible Agave Snout Weevil Infestation References: <200110022051.f92KpbP15193@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BBA2ED6.84D31AC0@qwest.net> Did the condition of the agave in your yard seem to come on quite suddenly? According to Mary Irish in her book, "Agaves, Yuccas and Related Plants", in an agave snout weevil infestation, a plant seems quite healthy, then suddenly collapses, with the outer leaves going first, leaving the central spike to finally collapse too. The damage can take place in a matter of weeks. Weevils are most active and lay their eggs during warm weather. If this is the case with your plants, there isn't anything you can do for them at this point. The weevils are black and about 1 inch long. If you do have weevils, do not plant another agave in the hole where these agave were growing as the larvae could still be present. Sue Bass Master Gardener donne@acumen2.net wrote: > I have three centurian agaves in my yard, > two in the front with no water and direct > sun and one in the back with water and shade. > All three are suffering from some type of > rot or wilt. The bottom leaves die and turn > brown and then the rest of the plant seems > to topple. Help! I don't want to lose these > plants. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Oct 2 22:16:49 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 18:16:49 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Agave Weevil Message-ID: <44.1424b882.28eb96d1@aol.com> --part1_44.1424b882.28eb96d1_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I suspect that the Agave Weevil has destroyed your agaves. When you remove them you will find a rotted mess. For future agaves an application of an insecticide such as Diazinon applied in May or June will help to prevent the problem. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_44.1424b882.28eb96d1_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I suspect that the Agave Weevil has destroyed your agaves. When you remove them you will find a rotted mess. For future agaves an application of an insecticide such as Diazinon applied in May or June will help to prevent the problem.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_44.1424b882.28eb96d1_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Oct 2 22:16:41 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 18:16:41 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cutworm control Message-ID: <84.1c54a683.28eb96c9@aol.com> --part1_84.1c54a683.28eb96c9_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit There are several insecticides that will control cutworms such as Sevin, Diaziinon, Spectricide or Dursban. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_84.1c54a683.28eb96c9_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit There are several insecticides that will control cutworms such as Sevin, Diaziinon, Spectricide or Dursban.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_84.1c54a683.28eb96c9_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Oct 2 22:16:40 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 18:16:40 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Orange tree wilting Message-ID: <10c.65ac727.28eb96c8@aol.com> --part1_10c.65ac727.28eb96c8_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I suspect that your orange tree is not getting enough water, however since your climatic conditions are very different from ours in the low desert in Arizona I suggest that you contact your local Cooperative Extension, you will find them listed under county government in your phone book and their service is free as is ours. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_10c.65ac727.28eb96c8_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I suspect that your orange tree is not getting enough water, however since your climatic conditions are very different from ours in the low desert in Arizona I suggest that you contact your local Cooperative Extension, you will find them listed under county government in your phone book and their service is free as is ours.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_10c.65ac727.28eb96c8_boundary-- From Phi722@aol.com Tue Oct 2 22:34:49 2001 From: Phi722@aol.com (Phi722@aol.com) Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 15:34:49 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110022234.f92MYnP09905@Ag.arizona.edu> What type of grass should I overseed with for this winter and when should I overseed? How should I prepare the ground for the overseed? Thank you! From sjbass@qwest.net Tue Oct 2 23:27:24 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 16:27:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Overseeding for winter References: <200110022234.f92MYnP09905@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BBA4D5C.313AB204@qwest.net> You can view fellow Master Gardener, Rod McKusick's response to a similar question by going to: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-October/005473.html Generally, perennial rye grass is used. The link in the response above takes you to the Master Gardener manual where options are discussed. Sue Bass Master Gardener Phi722@aol.com wrote: > What type of grass should I overseed with for this winter and when should I overseed? > > How should I prepare the ground for the overseed? > > Thank you! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From gillv@home.com Wed Oct 3 00:04:56 2001 From: gillv@home.com (gillv@home.com) Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 17:04:56 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110030004.f9304uP15716@Ag.arizona.edu> I have noticed my Bermuda(santa ana)grass, under the ficus tree, has been dying and leaving a big bald spot extending out. That area is frequented by rabbits and used to be full of rabbit feces till the grass was there. I have noticed in other yards too that grass around rabbit feces is dying. Do rabbits transmit a disease or something else is affecting the grass. Thank You. From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Wed Oct 3 03:12:26 2001 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 20:12:26 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Blocking out Bermuda grass In-Reply-To: <000c01c14a42$65b767e0$c982b5d1@pavilion> Message-ID: <20011003031226.4535.qmail@web14912.mail.yahoo.com> You can get roof flashing at home depot in the roofing dept. I'll guess it cost about $12-$15 for a roll about 18" by 20 feet. --- Starlene Stewart wrote: > Hi Jack, thanks, hey can you give me an idea of who > sells > aluminum roof flashing and do have any idea of how > much it costs? > > Thanks, > Starlene > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "jack blake" > To: "Starlene Stewart" > Cc: > Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2001 9:06 PM > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Blocking out Bermuda > grass > > > > I reccomend aluminum roof flashing (18") tall. > Bury it > > straight down about 17" and place your edging > against > > the inch or so sticking out of the ground. It > works > > well and lasts years.For nutsedge, the best thing > I've > > used is "Manage". It can take more than one > > application but it works and only on nutgrass. > Very > > expensive!! > > > > > > > > --- Starlene Stewart wrote: > > > Hi, > > > > > > Someone asked recently about what to do about > > > getting rid of > > > Bermuda to plant an herb garden. > > > > > > What I've always done is dig out the area > completely > > > and gone > > > through shovelful by shovelful taking out every > > > little piece of > > > Bermuda I could find. I understand if only one > > > rhizome is left > > > then you will have a problem. This is a very > > > time-consuming > > > task. > > > > > > A friend of mine built a screen using wood and > > > hardware cloth. > > > He used 2x4s and cut them to make a frame that > is 2 > > > feet square. > > > He attached one-quarter inch hardware cloth to > that > > > and he puts > > > in several shovelfuls of dirt and then shakes > the > > > strainer back > > > and forth over a wheelbarrow. He tosses out the > > > grass, roots and > > > large rocks. This process appears to be > effortless > > > for him, but > > > I've tried it and I just don't have the strength > or > > > stamina that > > > he does. > > > > > > What I've done over the years to block the > bermuda > > > from creeping > > > into the garden is to line the sides with 2x4's. > > > But these > > > aren't very effective as the Bermuda tends to > creep > > > over or grow > > > under. > > > > > > I have Bermuda grass in my front yard, and > didn't > > > want my rose > > > bush choked out by the grass. I found some > aluminum > > > flashing > > > that someone had thrown away, and had it trimmed > and > > > fixed to > > > make a round circle. It is about 8 inches wide, > and > > > I have > > > buried it under the ground about 4 inches which > left > > > 4 inches on > > > top. This works very very well at keeping the > > > Bermuda out of the > > > rose bush bed. > > > > > > What are some other suggestions for keeping the > > > Bermuda at bay? > > > I keep thinking there must be some very > effective, > > > inexpensive > > > thing to use that I am overlooking. I have seen > > > that Home Depot > > > has some type of bordering rolled up, about 4 > inches > > > in width, > > > but that wouldn't work well enough. I find that > I > > > need a border > > > that is at least 8 inches wide, so that I can > bury a > > > good portion > > > underground and then the Bermuda can't creep > over > > > the top. > > > > > > I'm also fighting nutgrass, what a nightmare! > > > > > > I guess I'm thinking of going to a sheet metal > type > > > place and see > > > if I can buy a roll of aluminum flashing that I > > > could bury around > > > the perimeter of my garden after I've eradicated > the > > > Bermuda > > > within. > > > > > > As a last resort, I'm thinking of buying a > gallon of > > > Round-up, > > > but I don't like using pesticides, although it > does > > > seem much > > > simpler than sifting through all that dirt, and > then > > > using the > > > Round-up to keep the Bermuda out of the garden > as > > > well. > > > > > > Any suggestions are welcomed! Thank in advance. > > > > > > Starlene > > > Phoenix, AZ > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > > __________________________________________________ > > Do You Yahoo!? > > Listen to your Yahoo! Mail messages from any > phone. > > http://phone.yahoo.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Listen to your Yahoo! Mail messages from any phone. http://phone.yahoo.com From sjbass@qwest.net Wed Oct 3 03:47:04 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 20:47:04 -0700 Subject: [Fwd: [Arid_gardener] Overseeding for winter] Message-ID: <3BBA8A37.FB2B99AF@qwest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------3FF3461898EE8FC05D4089BE Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Any comments? --------------3FF3461898EE8FC05D4089BE Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: sjbass@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 74790 invoked by uid 0); 3 Oct 2001 03:28:12 -0000 Received: from mail1.uswest.net (63.226.138.1) by phnxpop2.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 3 Oct 2001 03:28:12 -0000 Received: (qmail 74518 invoked by uid 0); 3 Oct 2001 03:28:11 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO falcon.mail.pas.earthlink.net) (207.217.120.74) by mail1.uswest.net with SMTP; 3 Oct 2001 03:28:11 -0000 Received: from 0f1by (cpe-24-221-130-99.az.sprintbbd.net [24.221.130.99]) by falcon.mail.pas.earthlink.net (8.11.5/8.9.3) with SMTP id f933S8615152 for ; Tue, 2 Oct 2001 20:28:08 -0700 (PDT) Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 20:33:16 -0700 Message-ID: <001201c14bbc$296982c0$6382dd18@phoenix.speedchoice.com> From: "Mark Mittelstaedt" To: "Sue Bass" References: <200110022234.f92MYnP09905@Ag.arizona.edu> <3BBA4D5C.313AB204@qwest.net> Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Overseeding for winter MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 I have found the perennial grass to come in somewhat coarser-bladed / wider leaves, very similar to nut grass. Has anyone else observed the same thing ? ----- Original Message ----- From: Sue Bass To: Cc: Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2001 4:27 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Overseeding for winter > You can view fellow Master Gardener, Rod McKusick's response to a similar question by > going to: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-October/005473.html > Generally, perennial rye grass is used. The link in the response above takes you to the > Master Gardener manual where options are discussed. > Sue Bass > Master Gardener > Phi722@aol.com wrote: > > > What type of grass should I overseed with for this winter and when should I overseed? > > > > How should I prepare the ground for the overseed? > > > > Thank you! > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener --------------3FF3461898EE8FC05D4089BE-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Oct 3 15:23:32 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2001 08:23:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pesticide Changes Message-ID: <3BBB2D73.3C07FDBF@qwest.net> Jack, I know that while we were at the MG University in Tucson we were advised of the loss of diazinon and another pesticide. The topic came up with regard to a recent question about agave collapse. I can't find my notes, nor is my memory too good on the matter, but I recall your knowing what was happening from our recent desert plant training at the DBG. Can you fill us in on what is being taken off the market, when this will occur, if this is just for homeowners or commercial ops as well, and what is being promoted as a suitable substitute? Thanks in advance for your reply. Linda From utopia95@aol.com Wed Oct 3 15:54:24 2001 From: utopia95@aol.com (utopia95@aol.com) Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 08:54:24 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110031554.f93FsOP27873@Ag.arizona.edu> I know that Gardenias need a special type of fertilizer...What kind is it and how often should it be applied...Thanking you in advance, Diane From doryvan@aol.com Wed Oct 3 16:18:04 2001 From: doryvan@aol.com (doryvan@aol.com) Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 09:18:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110031618.f93GI4P03857@Ag.arizona.edu> Exposed citrus tree branches were wrapped with burlap early last summer to protect them from sunburn. Should the burlap be removed from the branches when the daytime temperatures stay below 100 degrees? Is there a place to get information about the subject? From pagamcan@aol.com Wed Oct 3 18:58:44 2001 From: pagamcan@aol.com (pagamcan@aol.com) Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 11:58:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110031858.f93IwiP08865@Ag.arizona.edu> We need some tips and help in growing tomatoes in central Phx. My very italian huband is nearly retired and I guess its a cultural obsession for old italians!!! After readind some guides in the Ariz Republic, we planted 3 varieies in our small back your. Tthink they were "earl girls, champions and the tiny yello pear". My husband hours preparing the soil according to direction. They are in a place where they will only get full sun for about 3 hours. They look good so far, but its only been five day; Whhere do we go from here to produce some good fruit. I think my husband will suffer depression and maybe more if they all die - I believe theres some unwritten law in his culture -Like the most verile men produce prolific! I'm joking of course but there is truth to it! Thanks so much for any guidance you can provide.........Sharon Cannataro 602-230-1638 From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Oct 3 22:52:56 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 18:52:56 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus with wrapped branches Message-ID: <5f.1bb6b3e5.28ecf0c8@aol.com> --part1_5f.1bb6b3e5.28ecf0c8_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If foliage on your citrus tree has grown enough to shade the branches then you can remove the burlap, if not then the burlap should not be removed. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_5f.1bb6b3e5.28ecf0c8_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If foliage on your citrus tree has grown enough to shade the branches then you can remove the burlap, if not then the burlap should not be removed.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_5f.1bb6b3e5.28ecf0c8_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Oct 3 22:52:57 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 18:52:57 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bermuda grass in the shade Message-ID: <161.1dc0f52.28ecf0c9@aol.com> --part1_161.1dc0f52.28ecf0c9_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bermuda grass requires nearly full sun to remain healthy which probably accounts for your bare spot under the tree. The rabbit feces is probably very high in nitrogen which is burning the bermuda. In this case it is strike two and the bermuda is out. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_161.1dc0f52.28ecf0c9_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bermuda grass requires nearly full sun to remain healthy which probably accounts for your bare spot under the tree. The rabbit feces is probably very high in nitrogen which is burning the bermuda. In this case it is strike two and the bermuda is out.

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener

--part1_161.1dc0f52.28ecf0c9_boundary-- From rtk540@worldnet.att.net Thu Oct 4 00:24:20 2001 From: rtk540@worldnet.att.net (rtk540@worldnet.att.net) Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 17:24:20 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110040024.f940OKP28004@Ag.arizona.edu> We have a hybred grass which I believe is Midiron. It was very successful when we put it in as sod, however as the trees above it have matured it has started to die out. Do you have any recomendations on how to rejuvinate the grass or for a replacement? From rtk540@worldnet.att.net Thu Oct 4 00:38:08 2001 From: rtk540@worldnet.att.net (rtk540@worldnet.att.net) Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 17:38:08 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110040038.f940c8P29591@Ag.arizona.edu> We have an olive tree which is supposed to be fruitless. It is not. When it was young we used Monteray Fruit Eliminator and it was satisfactory, however now it no longer seems to work at all. Do you have any suggestions for another product? Also, would this be effective on bottle tree fruit? Thanks Brian From journies@worldnet.att.net Thu Oct 4 02:36:11 2001 From: journies@worldnet.att.net (journies@worldnet.att.net) Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 19:36:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110040236.f942aBP12112@Ag.arizona.edu> Is there a website for desert trees? From stange@dakotacom.net Thu Oct 4 03:36:30 2001 From: stange@dakotacom.net (stange@dakotacom.net) Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 20:36:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110040336.f943aUP21244@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a waxleaf privet and the leaves are turning brown and they have a white stuff on them. How should it be watered and what for fertilizer. From rcdemark@aol.com Thu Oct 4 16:36:30 2001 From: rcdemark@aol.com (rcdemark@aol.com) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 09:36:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110041636.f94GaUP26480@Ag.arizona.edu> Do you have any suggestions for the control of Rabbits eating the garden? Ropel doesn't have any effect on them. From sjbass@qwest.net Thu Oct 4 16:50:28 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 09:50:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rabbit Management References: <200110041636.f94GaUP26480@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BBC9354.4784E4B0@qwest.net> Two suggestions for you: First, the following link will take you to the University of AZ's publication on rabbit management http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/animals/rabbit.htm Next, if you go into our archives you will find many discussions with many different suggestions for dealing with rabbits. To view these discussions, go to: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/ and type in Rabbits. Sue Bass Master Gardener rcdemark@aol.com wrote: > Do you have any suggestions for the control of Rabbits eating the garden? Ropel doesn't have any effect on them. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Oct 4 23:02:03 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 16:02:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Chainfruit Cholla Growth Habit References: <200109252019.f8PKJjP21718@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BBCEA6B.6A0CEBE1@qwest.net> I don't know why the plant does so, but quoting Landscape Plants for Dry Regions: "Small green fruit usually remain on plant, blooming from last year's fruit to form drooping chains of fruit. If broken off, fruit will take root where they fall and start a new plant." As to the why of this, maybe the DBG's plant hotline can be of help [M-F, 10:00 to 11:30 am, 480/941-1225]. Linda Guy, MG fziemann@hotmail.com wrote: > By what process is it possible, for the Chain Fruit Cholla to keep adding on to the top of the previous year's fruit. In most plants, after the fruit ripens, it falls off, but the Chian Fruit Cholla's fruit does not, it stays and the next season another fruit grows on top. How can this happen? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Oct 4 23:11:12 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 16:11:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning Bougainvilleas and Fairy Dusters References: <200109270256.f8R2uqP28065@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BBCEC90.ADACEA4C@qwest.net> Bougainvilleas are first pruned to remove cold-damaged growth after the threat of frost has passed in the spring. They may also require subsequent shaping during the growth season to keep the branches under control. The red or Baja Fairy Duster [Calliandra californica] is usually lightly pruned late spring since more severe pruning can inhibit flowering. This is sometimes necessary, however, if the plant gets leggy. Does not like pruning in hot weather. Pink Fairy Dusters [Calliandra eriophylla] require little pruning, since they are so much more compact and are nicely shaped. If needed, May is again a good time. I've never pruned any of my pinks, whereas my reds have needed the shaping assistance. Linda Guy, MG marymei@attglobal.net wrote: > How do I prune Fairy Dusters and Bouginvea? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Oct 4 23:18:53 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 16:18:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Improving Grape Production References: <200109271755.f8RHtVP14478@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BBCEE5D.D45C9490@qwest.net> Vines require particular pruning and grape clusters should be reduced about 1/3 just after blooming. Fertilization and watering are also factors. Check out our publication on backyard grapes, which can be ordered with the instructions at the top of this link: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm You'll find the publication MC-59 under Fruits & Nuts. MC-90 also contains information on selecting varieties, if that is of interest to you. Linda Guy, MG kkturner@srpnet.com wrote: > My 3 year old Thompson Seedless grapes only produce grapes smaller than peas. What do I need to do to produce a 'bunch of grapes'? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From crsanchez@att.net Thu Oct 4 23:42:18 2001 From: crsanchez@att.net (crsanchez@att.net) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 16:42:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110042342.f94NgIP07360@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a tiff lawn and this creeping weed has spread thought the my lawn, and taken over in some areas. It has small leaves, spreads quickly, and leaves a sticky residue on your fingers when I pull the weed. Either ants are attracted to it or they spread it, but there are ants in conjunction with this weed. What is this weed and how do I get rid of it? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Oct 5 00:57:03 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 20:57:03 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bermuda Grass in the shade Message-ID: <150.2059e4f.28ee5f5f@aol.com> --part1_150.2059e4f.28ee5f5f_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bermuda grass requires nearly full sun in order to stay healthy. Grasses that can be grown in the shade here in the low desert are tall fescue, st augustine and dichondra. However with these grasses you will not be able to over seed with rye for winter grass. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener . --part1_150.2059e4f.28ee5f5f_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bermuda grass requires nearly full sun in order to stay healthy. Grasses that can be grown in the shade here in the low desert are tall fescue, st augustine and dichondra. However with these grasses you will not be able to over seed with rye for winter grass.

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener .

--part1_150.2059e4f.28ee5f5f_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Oct 5 00:57:08 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 20:57:08 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Desert Trees Message-ID: <11b.5621dcf.28ee5f64@aol.com> --part1_11b.5621dcf.28ee5f64_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Try this website for desert trees: http://www.aridzonetrees.com/treesin.htm Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_11b.5621dcf.28ee5f64_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Try this website for desert trees: http://www.aridzonetrees.com/treesin.htm

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_11b.5621dcf.28ee5f64_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Oct 5 00:57:10 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 20:57:10 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Olive fruit eliminator Message-ID: <1e.1c3ff0cf.28ee5f66@aol.com> --part1_1e.1c3ff0cf.28ee5f66_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Olive Stop is one product that is supposed to eliminate the fruit when applied according to directions. There are several others on the market, why not check with your favorite nursery. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_1e.1c3ff0cf.28ee5f66_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Olive Stop is one product that is supposed to eliminate the fruit when applied according to directions. There are several others on the market, why not check with your favorite nursery.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_1e.1c3ff0cf.28ee5f66_boundary-- From gemlenz@aol.com Fri Oct 5 01:14:16 2001 From: gemlenz@aol.com (gemlenz@aol.com) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 18:14:16 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110050114.f951EGP20669@Ag.arizona.edu> Last year we had a bumper crop on our lemon tree. This year there is not much. I didn't change what I was doing. What happened? Also, when is the best time to prune. From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Fri Oct 5 01:41:44 2001 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 18:41:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200110031554.f93FsOP27873@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20011005014144.54648.qmail@web14906.mail.yahoo.com> Gardenias need an acid ic soil. Ours is alkiline so you must lower the PH to make the plant more comfortable. To do this you must add soil sulfur to the soil to lower the PH and use fertilizers that contain sulfur or are for acid loving plants. Read the labels and they tell the story. --- utopia95@aol.com wrote: > I know that Gardenias need a special type of > fertilizer...What kind is it and how often should it > be applied...Thanking you in advance, Diane > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? NEW from Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month. http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1 From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Fri Oct 5 01:47:57 2001 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 18:47:57 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200110031618.f93GI4P03857@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20011005014757.8935.qmail@web14910.mail.yahoo.com> You answered your own question. the porpose for wrapping citrus is to protect the bark from sunburn not temperature. If the trunk is shaded and its 120 degrees, you are protecting the bark from sunburn. --- doryvan@aol.com wrote: > Exposed citrus tree branches were wrapped with > burlap early last summer to protect them from > sunburn. > Should the burlap be removed from the branches when > the daytime temperatures stay below 100 degrees? > Is there a place to get information about the > subject? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? NEW from Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month. http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1 From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Fri Oct 5 01:56:05 2001 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 18:56:05 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200110040024.f940OKP28004@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20011005015605.58828.qmail@web14906.mail.yahoo.com> Your hybred is a type of bermuda. Bermuda will not grow in shade. Here are some choices: 1- raise the skirt of the tree and thin out some of its intenal growth(don't overdo it). 2-convert the area under the tree to a bed of low water use plants.(the water needs should be close to that of the tree) 3-Plant a shade grass like fesque or dicondra. 4- on a more drastic thought, you can cut the tree down. My choice would be # 1 --- rtk540@worldnet.att.net wrote: > We have a hybred grass which I believe is > Midiron. It was very successful when we put > it in as sod, however as the trees above it > have matured it has started to die out. > Do you have any recomendations on how to > rejuvinate the grass or for a replacement? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? NEW from Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month. http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1 From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Fri Oct 5 02:00:22 2001 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 19:00:22 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200110040038.f940c8P29591@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20011005020022.51900.qmail@web14908.mail.yahoo.com> The product you want to use is called FLOREL, I don't recall who makes it but you can get at most nurseries. It should be applied in two applications,the first on thr south side of the tree and then thesecond onthe north side as each side will flower at different times. Follow the directions. --- rtk540@worldnet.att.net wrote: > We have an olive tree which is supposed to > be fruitless. It is not. When it was young > we used Monteray Fruit Eliminator and it > was satisfactory, however now it no longer > seems to work at all. Do you have any > suggestions for another product? Also, > would this be effective on bottle tree fruit? > > Thanks > Brian > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? NEW from Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month. http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1 From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Fri Oct 5 02:06:30 2001 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 19:06:30 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200110042342.f94NgIP07360@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20011005020630.78487.qmail@web14904.mail.yahoo.com> Sounds like spurge. It is a broad leaf weed and any weed killer for lawns should wipe it out.These herbicides kill broad leaf plants so if you get it on the wife's roses, leave town. best applied in the cool temps of the am. I suggest a liquid for faster results. You might want to apply a preemergent to prevent the seeds of the weed growing.Remember, follow the directions --- crsanchez@att.net wrote: > I have a tiff lawn and this creeping weed has spread > thought the my lawn, and taken over in some areas. > It has small leaves, spreads quickly, and leaves a > sticky residue on your fingers when I pull the weed. > Either ants are attracted to it or they spread it, > but there are ants in conjunction with this weed. > What is this weed and how do I get rid of it? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > === message truncated === __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? NEW from Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month. http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1 From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Oct 5 02:17:08 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 02:17:08 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] lawn, prostrate weed Message-ID: I am not a turf expert. Here are some suggestions. The weed you are describing could be spotted spurge -- it is an annual; flat on the ground, stems form a circular mat from a single taproot. It is aggressive and has a milky sap. The best control is to create a healthy and vigorous lawn with proper care. This weed will die out during the winter, but will grow from seed in the spring, so you will want to apply a pre-emergent in early spring. The ants find shelter unter the broad circular mat. Linda Drew MFrom: crsanchez@att.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 16:42:18 -0700 (MST) > >I have a tiff lawn and this creeping weed has spread thought the my lawn, >and taken over in some areas. It has small leaves, spreads quickly, and >leaves a sticky residue on your fingers when I pull the weed. Either ants >are attracted to it or they spread it, but there are ants in conjunction >with this weed. What is this weed and how do I get rid of it? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From hoboen2001@yahoo.com Fri Oct 5 02:24:55 2001 From: hoboen2001@yahoo.com (hoboen2001@yahoo.com) Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 19:24:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110050224.f952OtP04345@Ag.arizona.edu> What is the expiration time, shelf life, of vegetable/flower seeds? I have some (a lot) that were packed in 1985. Thanks From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Oct 5 02:27:25 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 02:27:25 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] privet, white on leaves Message-ID: The white stuff on the leaves might be an insect, like scale, or a fungus, like powdery mildew. Take a sample to your nearest Cooperative Extension Office for a positive ID. Read the Master Gardener Manual, chapter on irrigation, for more information about proper watering. http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/irrigation/ You will want to apply a nitrogen fertilizer in the spring. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: stange@dakotacom.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 20:36:30 -0700 (MST) > >I have a waxleaf privet and the leaves are turning brown and they have a >white stuff on them. How should it be watered and what for fertilizer. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listin _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Oct 5 02:30:25 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 02:30:25 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] desert trees Message-ID: There are a number of websites that include information about desert trees. You mighht want to start with http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening What specific information are you interest in ---- selection, care, pictures?? Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: journies@worldnet.att.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 19:36:11 -0700 (MST) > >Is there a website for desert trees? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From sjbass@qwest.net Fri Oct 5 05:15:30 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 22:15:30 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Shelf life of seeds References: <200110050224.f952OtP04345@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BBD41F2.CB7E8E86@qwest.net> >From what I have read, it all depends on the seed and where it has been stored. If they have been stored in a cool, dry place, they might be fine. Why not try planting them? Check out a similar question and responses at Garden Web http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/seed/msg0821131527880.html Many people tell stories of planting some pretty old seeds and having them germinate. Sue Bass Master Gardener hoboen2001@yahoo.com wrote: > What is the expiration time, shelf life, of vegetable/flower seeds? I have some (a lot) that were packed in 1985. Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From ragtop@onr.com Fri Oct 5 10:54:03 2001 From: ragtop@onr.com (ragtop@onr.com) Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 03:54:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110051054.f95As3P01548@Ag.arizona.edu> Where can I get some Candlewood Ocotillo (Fouquieria Splendens)? thanks From phygen@yahoo.com Fri Oct 5 11:52:14 2001 From: phygen@yahoo.com (Figen...) Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 04:52:14 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] info please Message-ID: <20011005115214.20831.qmail@web10801.mail.yahoo.com> --0-1666441175-1002282734=:20562 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Dear Sir, i am an university student in Turkey.I study Plant pathology and my branch is weeds science.i need some info about some subjects but i cant find it in my country because no one has studied about this subject before, here.so i thought the best is to write u and have info from u if it is possible.my subject is; how does the frost effect the weeds in citrus gardens...do weeds lower the frost injury on citrus trees or not?or dont weeds effect the frost injury in citrus gardens.. if u can give me some info about it i will so glad.. thank u very much your sincerelly FiGeN --------------------------------- Do You Yahoo!? NEW from Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month. Yahoo! by Phone. --0-1666441175-1002282734=:20562 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

Dear Sir,

i am an university student in Turkey.I study Plant pathology and my branch is weeds science.i need some info about some subjects but i cant find it in my country because no one has studied about this subject before, here.so i thought the best is to write u and have info from u if it is possible.my subject is; how does the frost effect the weeds in citrus gardens...do weeds lower the frost injury on citrus trees or not?or dont weeds effect the frost injury in citrus gardens..

if u can give me some info about it i will so glad..

thank u very much

your sincerelly

FiGeN

Do You Yahoo!?
NEW from Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month. Yahoo! by Phone. --0-1666441175-1002282734=:20562-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Oct 5 12:43:34 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 12:43:34 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ocotillo Message-ID: If you are in the Tucson area, check Desert Survivors (791-9309). I noticed they had Mexican tree ocotillo when I visited the plant sale last weekend; didn't notice candlewood, but they very well might have it. Also Tucson Botanical Gardens and Tohono Chul Park are holding their plant sales this weekend. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: ragtop@onr.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 03:54:03 -0700 (MST) > >Where can I get some Candlewood Ocotillo (Fouquieria Splendens)? thanks > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Oct 5 14:43:12 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 07:43:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Candlewood Ocotillo References: <200110051054.f95As3P01548@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BBDC6FF.381C4C88@qwest.net> The Desert Botanical Gardens fall plant sale is the weekend of October 20-21. If they don't have some, you could ask the staff about sources. Linda Guy, MG ragtop@onr.com wrote: > Where can I get some Candlewood Ocotillo (Fouquieria Splendens)? thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Oct 5 14:47:38 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 07:47:38 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gardenias References: <200110031554.f93FsOP27873@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BBDC80A.A39F909A@qwest.net> In addition to Jack's excellent response, you might consider sending away for our publication MC-20 on Gardenias and Camellias at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Linda Guy, MG utopia95@aol.com wrote: > I know that Gardenias need a special type of fertilizer...What kind is it and how often should it be applied...Thanking you in advance, Diane > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Oct 5 14:51:24 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 07:51:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Shelf-life of seeds References: <200110050224.f952OtP04345@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BBDC8EC.BCC0FB9C@qwest.net> If they are varieties you cherish or otherwise want to save, you could try them out in a corner of your garden. But I wouldn't bet my entire cool season vegetable production on 16 year old seeds. It also depends on where they have been. Had they stayed the whole time in a 120F shed, I wouldn't suspect a great deal of viability from annuals [natives would be different]. Linda Guy, MG hoboen2001@yahoo.com wrote: > What is the expiration time, shelf life, of vegetable/flower seeds? I have some (a lot) that were packed in 1985. Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Oct 5 14:58:22 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 07:58:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gardenias References: <200110031554.f93FsOP27873@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BBDCA8E.D23D9F1@qwest.net> My fingers were going faster than my mind!!! The pub is MC-29, not MC-20. Linda In addition to Jack's excellent response, you might consider sending away for our publication MC-20 on Gardenias and Camellias at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Linda Guy, MG utopia95@aol.com wrote: > I know that Gardenias need a special type of fertilizer...What kind is it and how often should it be applied...Thanking you in advance, Diane > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Oct 5 15:07:03 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 08:07:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Carolina Jessamine [Gelsemium sempervirens] References: <200109282024.f8SKOlP28591@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BBDCC97.54CB5654@qwest.net> This evergreen vine grows at a moderate clip to roughly 20'. It prefers full sun; a northern exposure may promote less vigorous and more leggy habit. They bloom late winter into spring and it is after the bloom cycle [about March] that pruning is suggested. It can get woody, so a severe pruning to stimulate new growth is recommended every 3-6 years. All parts of the plant are poisonous. Linda Guy, MG RcDeH@aol.com wrote: > Re; Carolina jessamine > > I have Carolina jessamina planted on the north side of the house. They have grown to about five feet and I would like to cut them back. How far and when can they cut back to where the leaves will bud out and the plant will grow? > > Thanks, > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Oct 5 21:42:23 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 17:42:23 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Prunning Citrus Message-ID: <32.1be920e9.28ef833f@aol.com> --part1_32.1be920e9.28ef833f_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It is best to prune as little as possible on citrus trees, prune only to remove dead crossing or damaged branches and wayward growth as well as sucker growth from below the graft union. Each time you remove leaves from a tree you are removing food manufacturing capacity. Citrus trees are best pruned in the spring. It is common for citrus to have alternate good and bad years. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_32.1be920e9.28ef833f_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It is best to prune as little as possible on citrus trees, prune only to remove dead crossing or damaged branches and wayward growth as well as sucker growth from below the graft union. Each time you remove leaves from a tree you are removing food manufacturing capacity. Citrus trees are best pruned in the spring.
It is common for citrus to have alternate good and bad years.

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_32.1be920e9.28ef833f_boundary-- From KasondrAni@aol.com Fri Oct 5 23:44:45 2001 From: KasondrAni@aol.com (KasondrAni@aol.com) Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 16:44:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110052344.f95NijP03388@Ag.arizona.edu> We have gophers in our back yard. When we installed lights, they went away. Adding a porch, so the lights were off for a few days, gopher began digging holes again. Our back yard, possitively has tunnels everywhere. What can I do to get rid of these guys, without torturing them. From fourcverde@aol.com Sat Oct 6 14:51:12 2001 From: fourcverde@aol.com (fourcverde@aol.com) Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2001 07:51:12 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110061451.f96EpCP12184@Ag.arizona.edu> I am a landscaper in South Texas and have had issues with bermuda grass in recently sod fill lawns with st. augustine. The homeowners are very dissappointed in the growth of bermuda in the lawn. As far as I know when bermuda invades st. augustine it might be a losing battle. Because its runners and roots are superior to the above ground runners of st.augustine. Because st. augustine is so sensitive, any chemicals used to rid bermuda will kill the st. augustine. I recently took on a project with such problems. The home owners are willing to listen to any constructive ideas and possible experimental activity. Is their any grass that will drown out bermuda or any other ideas other than tilling the soil to china? I have recommended Zoysia if all fails. From umiller@azdps.com Sat Oct 6 20:34:11 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2001 13:34:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Scale on Star Jasmine???? Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C14E6B.95592880 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I noticed that some of the branches on my star jasmine are drying out and dying, while other parts of the climbing plant are doing just fine. (This is not the common brown leaf drop that happens occasionally nor the occasional drying out of some branches. This seems to dry out entire sections of the vine and then attacks other sections.) On close inspection, I notice that some of the branches have a yellowish/brownish substance on them that can be scratched off and is soft. It looks like growth, but it's not because it's easily removed with a fingernail. The length of it varies from small bits to lengths of a few inches. I think that this may be the culprit, but I'm not sure. Also, I think it could be scale, but I'm not sure of that, either. I've tried finding the answer in my many books on plants, plant problems, plants in arid places, etc. but I haven't been able to find a definitive answer. I found reference to some kind of cherry scale which attacks fruit trees. The description seems to be right, but I have a jasmine vine, not a fruit tree. Also, most of the references to scale so far on this site deal with the cochineal scale on cacti and the scale that has something to do with lawns. Could this be a scale problem? Earlier today I sprayed the plant with the gardening soap mixture. Will that fix the problem? Since these 'things' are soft, I thought that the soap might kills them in magical way the it kills other unwanted critters. I'd prefer not having to use strong chemicals, but I will do so to save this plant. Does anybody have any ideas? Thanks in advance - Ursula Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C14E6B.95592880 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I noticed that some = of the=20 branches on my star jasmine are drying out and dying, while other parts = of the=20 climbing plant are doing just fine. (This is not the common brown = leaf=20 drop that happens occasionally nor the occasional drying out of some=20 branches. This seems to dry out entire sections of the vine and = then=20 attacks other sections.) On close inspection, I notice that some = of the=20 branches have a yellowish/brownish substance on them that can be = scratched off=20 and is soft. It looks like growth, but it's not because it's = easily=20 removed with a fingernail. The length of it varies from small bits = to=20 lengths of a few inches. I think that this may be the culprit, but = I'm not=20 sure. Also, I think it could be scale, but I'm not sure of that,=20 either. I've tried finding the answer in my many books on plants, = plant=20 problems, plants in arid places, etc. but I haven't been able to = find a=20 definitive answer. I found reference to some kind of cherry scale = which=20 attacks fruit trees. The description seems to be right, but I have = a=20 jasmine vine, not a fruit tree. Also, most of the references to = scale so=20 far on this site deal with the cochineal scale on cacti and the scale = that has=20 something to do with lawns.

Could this be a = scale=20 problem? Earlier today I sprayed the plant with the gardening soap = mixture. Will that fix the problem? Since these 'things' are = soft, I=20 thought that the soap might kills them in magical way the it kills other = unwanted critters. I'd prefer not having to use strong chemicals, = but I=20 will do so to save this plant.

Does anybody have = any=20 ideas?

Thanks in advance=20 -

Ursula Miller

------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C14E6B.95592880-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Oct 6 23:03:22 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2001 19:03:22 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bermuda grass in St Augustine turf Message-ID: <163.1f305ef.28f0e7ba@aol.com> --part1_163.1f305ef.28f0e7ba_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Your comment that it is a losing battle to try to eliminate bermuda growing in a St Augustine lawn is right on target. Any herbicides applied that will kill bermuda will also kill st augustine since they both belong to the same class of plants. Your only option is to kill everything and start over. You mentioned zoysia grass, bear in mind that zoysia is not well adapted to the arid southwest unless you live in an area of Texas whose soils are on the acid side. Zoysia is also slow to become established, taking up to two years. Here in the low desert of Arizona bermuda is the grass of choice. Why not check with your county Cooperative Extension, you will find them listed under county government in your phone book and their service is free as is ours. They will be familiar with your local situation. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_163.1f305ef.28f0e7ba_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Your comment that it is a losing battle to try to eliminate bermuda growing in a St Augustine lawn is right on target. Any herbicides applied that will kill bermuda will also kill st augustine since they both belong to the same class of plants. Your only option is to kill everything and start over.
You mentioned zoysia grass, bear in mind that zoysia is not well adapted to the arid southwest unless you live in an area of Texas whose soils are on the acid side. Zoysia is also slow to become established, taking up to two years.
Here in the low desert of Arizona bermuda is the grass of choice.
Why not check with your county Cooperative Extension, you will find them listed under county government in your phone book and their service is free as is ours. They will be familiar with your local situation.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_163.1f305ef.28f0e7ba_boundary-- From bat4@msn.com Sun Oct 7 00:06:42 2001 From: bat4@msn.com (bat4@msn.com) Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2001 17:06:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110070006.f9706gP24968@Ag.arizona.edu> I have two questions: I have a mature ficus benjamina tree outside that is approx. 20-25' tall planted near my home. The daily and year round leaf drop is killing me. Is there anything I could do that might reduce this litter, such as fertilizer? Also I have some hibiscus plants in large planters protected from the hot sun that seem to be having lots of yellow leaves and poor growth. Is this normal? Thanks. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Oct 7 03:27:51 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2001 23:27:51 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ficus benjamina losing leaves Message-ID: <125.5749d32.28f125b7@aol.com> --part1_125.5749d32.28f125b7_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It is normal for most evergreen trees to continually drop leaves as opposed to deciduous trees that lose all their leaves at one time in the fall. Improper irrigation would cause an excessive leaf drop. As for the hibiscus, it should be fertilized monthly during the growing season, this would improve on its growth. Check out this site for info on irrigation: Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_125.5749d32.28f125b7_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It is normal for most evergreen trees to continually drop leaves as opposed to deciduous trees that lose all their leaves at one time in the fall. Improper irrigation would cause an excessive leaf drop.
As for the hibiscus, it should be fertilized monthly during the growing season, this would improve on its growth.
Check out this site for info on irrigation:

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_125.5749d32.28f125b7_boundary-- From jlldyoung1@home.com Mon Oct 8 03:20:43 2001 From: jlldyoung1@home.com (jlldyoung1@home.com) Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2001 20:20:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110080320.f983KhP09509@Ag.arizona.edu> Is there a grass other than Rye that can be used for overseeding here in the Valley? From meringer2@home.com Mon Oct 8 03:29:47 2001 From: meringer2@home.com (meringer2@home.com) Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2001 20:29:47 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110080329.f983TlP10213@Ag.arizona.edu> We have a creeping fig that has been "creeping" along the north wall of our backyard since we moved in 6 years ago. The new neighbors which have the base of the plant(s) in their yard, we think, cut back the plant and has caused the plant on our side of the wall to dry up and die. I'm very upset about this since this lovely foilage covers the ugly cinder block wall. Now we have this tangled mess to clean up. Will this plant bounce back and rejuvenate itself? I'm thinking about planting it along the wall in my yard. Any suggestions for care i.e. watering etc. Thanks! Marie From eicherk@ix.netcom.com Mon Oct 8 04:37:11 2001 From: eicherk@ix.netcom.com (Karen Eicher) Date: Sun, 07 Oct 2001 21:37:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sanata Ana vs. Mid Iron Message-ID: <3BC12D77.222AC70D@ix.netcom.com> I am moving into a house and I have the choice of a Santa Ana sod lawn and a mid iron lawn. The lawn space will be quite small. I am planning to plant at least one Eucalyptus microtheca in the space, also. I guess what I am asking is which of the two lawn choices will have the best balance of economical water use and shade tolerance? Thanks, Karen Eicher From cbuckh1030@aol.com Mon Oct 8 15:39:15 2001 From: cbuckh1030@aol.com (cbuckh1030@aol.com) Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 08:39:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110081539.f98FdFS15606@Ag.arizona.edu> Is now a safe time to take cuttings from prickly pears to transplant them? From Frankm@intsvc.com Mon Oct 8 17:35:44 2001 From: Frankm@intsvc.com (Frank Marquardt) Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 10:35:44 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Prickly Pears Message-ID: <001101c1501f$bd529a00$377d8e3f@oemcomputer> Re: Is now a safe time to take cuttings from prickly pears to transplant them? ******************** If at all possible, you should wait till the spring after our night time temperature hold steady above 50 *F. Giving the new plants a full growing season to establish themselves in their new location. Frank From mymysty@aol.com Mon Oct 8 19:29:19 2001 From: mymysty@aol.com (mymysty@aol.com) Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 12:29:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110081929.f98JTJS03403@Ag.arizona.edu> how and when do i prune an orange tree? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Oct 8 22:31:45 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 18:31:45 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus pruning Message-ID: --part1_fd.d43ec6e.28f38351_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It is best to prune as little as possible on citrus trees, prune only to remove dead crossing or damaged branches and wayward growth as well as sucker growth from below the graft union. Each time you remove leaves from a tree you are removing food manufacturing capacity. Citrus trees are best pruned in the spring. It is common for citrus to have alternate good and bad years. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_fd.d43ec6e.28f38351_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
It is best to prune as little as possible on citrus trees, prune only to remove dead crossing or damaged branches and wayward growth as well as sucker growth from below the graft union. Each time you remove leaves from a tree you are removing food manufacturing capacity. Citrus trees are best pruned in the spring.
It is common for citrus to have alternate good and bad years.

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_fd.d43ec6e.28f38351_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Oct 8 22:31:46 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 18:31:46 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sanata Ana vs. Mid Iron Message-ID: <88.d779d6b.28f38352@aol.com> --part1_88.d779d6b.28f38352_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Karen, Neither Santa Ana or Mid Iron are considered shade tolerant. For a shade tolerant grass you should consider tall fescue, St Augustine or zoysia grass. Tall fescue will remain green through the year here in the low desert but the others will not. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_88.d779d6b.28f38352_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Karen,

Neither Santa Ana or Mid Iron are considered shade tolerant. For a shade tolerant grass you should consider tall fescue, St Augustine or zoysia grass. Tall fescue will remain green through the year here in the low desert but the others will not.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_88.d779d6b.28f38352_boundary-- From lafnepf@aol.com Tue Oct 9 05:37:35 2001 From: lafnepf@aol.com (lafnepf@aol.com) Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2001 22:37:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110090537.f995bZS16535@Ag.arizona.edu> Re: 10 yr old tangerine tree The bark is splitting from the ground to the graft, and also beginning to rot at the ground line. What can we do to save the tree? What could be the problem? Any info would be appreciated. Thank you! PS Leaves & fruit on the tree are still healthy looking. HELP! L.A. From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Oct 9 14:21:37 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 09 Oct 2001 07:21:37 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gophers References: <200110052344.f95NijP03388@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BC307F1.C2640CC1@qwest.net> Here is a section from our urban integrated pest management website on gophers: http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/rodents/pocketgophers.html You might also do a search in the archives of questions and answers [same place where you posed this question], to see what others have done in the past. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/question.htm Linda Guy, MG KasondrAni@aol.com wrote: > We have gophers in our back yard. When we installed lights, they went away. Adding a porch, so the lights were off for a few days, gopher began digging holes again. Our back yard, possitively has tunnels everywhere. What can I do to get rid of these guys, without torturing them. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Oct 9 14:28:34 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 09 Oct 2001 07:28:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plant Propagation References: <200109290309.f8T399P25542@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BC30992.F4A62AC6@qwest.net> General instructions on plant propagation are in the Master Gardener Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/propagation/index.html http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/cacti/index.html We also have a few pubs on cactus/succulents at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Linda Guy, MG cbuckh1030@aol.com wrote: > How can I start an Ocotillo from a cane or cutting? Also, how can I start oleanders from cuttings? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Oct 9 14:32:03 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 09 Oct 2001 07:32:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Starling Problem References: <200109300434.f8U4YAP14600@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BC30A63.9E0CAB4@qwest.net> It doesn't appear that you received a reply from one of us. I don't have a solution, but would suggest that you contact AZ Game and Fish to see if they've any suggestions for you. Other references for wildlife management are at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/library/ref-wld.htm What about a simple barrier method, like putting some mesh/screening material across the holes? Linda Guy, MG HRB85373@aol.com wrote: > Starlings are taking over the woodpecker holes in our saguaros. Any ideas how to get rid of them? (in a town, so can't shoot them!) > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Oct 9 14:40:58 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 09 Oct 2001 07:40:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tomatoes in Cool Season References: <200110031858.f93IwiP08865@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BC30C7A.AC0292C@qwest.net> Here are some recently written tips from fellow Master Gardener Olin Miller about growing cool season tomatoes. In the low desert of Phoenix, they are a warm season crop. For more tips on tomatoes see our publication MC 22 which can be ordered at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Vegetable "Although you may get some tomato blossoms during the winter months, tomatoes grown outdoors will not set fruit reliably from about mid November through January when the weather cools and the days are short. If you have green tomatoes in November, the fruit will often remain green during the winter months and not begin to ripen until late January. Short season cherry tomatoes or small, short season, bush varieties like Pixie or Patio transplanted about January 1 so that the plants will be in bloom by early February might begin to ripen by the end of March. Sow seeds indoors about Thanksgiving Day - it is often not possible to purchase suitable transplants on January 1. It may also be necessary to protect the plants from occasional light frost." Good luck to you and your husband! Linda Guy, MG pagamcan@aol.com wrote: > We need some tips and help in growing tomatoes in central Phx. My very italian huband is nearly retired and I guess its a cultural obsession for old italians!!! > > After readind some guides in the Ariz Republic, we planted 3 varieies in our small back your. Tthink they were "earl girls, champions and the tiny yello pear". My husband hours preparing the soil according to direction. They are in a place where they will only get full sun for about 3 hours. > > They look good so far, but its only been five day; Whhere do we go from here to produce some good fruit. I think my husband will suffer depression and maybe more if they all die - I believe theres some unwritten law in his culture -Like the most verile men produce prolific! I'm joking of course but there is truth to it! > > Thanks so much for any guidance you can provide.........Sharon Cannataro 602-230-1638 > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Oct 9 14:43:33 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 09 Oct 2001 07:43:33 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cool Season Turf Options References: <200110080320.f983KhP09509@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BC30D15.E68CD2E3@qwest.net> Check out the relevant section of our online Master Gardener manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/lawns/cold.html Linda Guy, MG jlldyoung1@home.com wrote: > Is there a grass other than Rye that can be used for overseeding here in the Valley? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From jrmcd64@cs.com Tue Oct 9 16:10:30 2001 From: jrmcd64@cs.com (jrmcd64@cs.com) Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2001 09:10:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110091610.f99GAUS21072@Ag.arizona.edu> In my vegtable garden i have alot of bermuda grass. can i spray to kill the grass and still grow vegetables? thank you From goodingpn@cs.com Tue Oct 9 18:49:03 2001 From: goodingpn@cs.com (goodingpn@cs.com) Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2001 11:49:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110091849.f99In3I26745@Ag.arizona.edu> does anyone have familiarity with tamarack trees? i think i am growing one in my yard.i would appreciate any information i can get. From valpogrl@aol.com Wed Oct 10 00:46:27 2001 From: valpogrl@aol.com (valpogrl@aol.com) Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2001 17:46:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110100046.f9A0kRI09375@Ag.arizona.edu> Hi, My husband bought me quite a few seed packets at a close out sale. I suspect that some of them are not appropriate to our climate, however I'm willing to give it a try. I need advice on proper times to start these seeds. Does anyone know of a website that lists proper planting (seed starting)times for flowers in the southwest (phoenix)? Times for both inside and outside seed starting would be nice but any advice would be appreciated. The seeds that I'm not sure of are: aster, delphinium, balsam flower, coneflower,shasta daisy, candytuft, salvia, and catchfly. Thank you, Cindy From RkBetu@aol.com Wed Oct 10 00:54:41 2001 From: RkBetu@aol.com (RkBetu@aol.com) Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2001 20:54:41 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gophers Message-ID: <120.54c9dd8.28f4f651@aol.com> I live in the middle of a gopher metropolis. For many years, I had cats and fed many stray cats - never had gophers then. Something changed and most of the stray cats disappeared. After my last cat died, I didn't get another for several years. The gophers found a perpetual picnic. I didn't go to war until they had killed 3 young fruit trees and made gardening impossible. It's a continuous battle, but I am ahead. I've found little difference in using poison, flares, or traps. One just has to keep at it. You have to dig down to find a main tunnel and put the poison/or trap there. If you use poison, do make sure you get the poison pellets deep so other animals, birds, don't eat it. Gopher flares work if you find an open hole, but be ready to cover it COMPLETELY and fast! That stuff really stinks. In addition, the last few trees and small garden beds that I've put in, have been in holes lined with chicken wire. The problem has diminished, but every couple of months I find new holes and have to treat all over again. I think I'm going to get a couple more cats.... Rocki in Az (not a master gardener) From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Wed Oct 10 03:35:57 2001 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2001 20:35:57 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200110081539.f98FdFS15606@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20011010033557.75493.qmail@web14904.mail.yahoo.com> In a word, yes.Let the wound dry a little while first. --- cbuckh1030@aol.com wrote: > Is now a safe time to take cuttings from prickly > pears to transplant them? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals. http://personals.yahoo.com From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Oct 10 03:34:10 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2001 20:34:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gophers References: <120.54c9dd8.28f4f651@aol.com> Message-ID: <002101c1513e$8a052620$0550530c@j0r9501> In addition to all of the recommended pocket gopher management and control suggestions, here is a new one (new to me anyway) that looks promising and that I plan to try. http://ag.arizona.edu/yavapai/anr/hort/byg/archive/pocketgopher2000.html Don't know if you would consider gassing to be humane but, in my experience, the gophers are so destructive that I would try just about anything that works. Also note the caveats with respect to: 1) does the smoke or residue left in the burrow harm plant roots and 3) will this device have detrimental effects on non-target organisms Olin KasondrAni@aol.com wrote: > We have gophers in our back yard. When we installed lights, they went away. Adding a porch, so the lights were off for a few days, gopher began digging holes again. Our back yard, possitively has tunnels everywhere. What can I do to get rid of these guys, without torturing them. > From onlyu56@home.com Wed Oct 10 03:55:49 2001 From: onlyu56@home.com (onlyu56@home.com) Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2001 20:55:49 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110100355.f9A3tnI03416@Ag.arizona.edu> I planted a Mexican lime tree a couple of years ago. Last year it had so many limes we couldn't use them all. This year, we don't have a single lime. The leaves look healthy, but no fruit. Can you help me to understand why we have no fruit this year? Thanks. From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Oct 10 04:57:50 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2001 21:57:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tamarack References: <200110091849.f99In3I26745@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <004801c15148$b9377880$f051530c@j0r9501> It isn't possible to tell your location from your post. If you are in a cold climate or mountain climate, the Tamarack tree, or Western Larch, is probably adapted because it is native to our Western mountains.. But if you are in the low desert you might be referring to Tamarix chinesis (or salt cedar) which is sometimes erroneously called tamarack and which I would not want in my landscape. It can grow just about anywhere because it has very deep, aggressive roots and displaces other more desirable desert plants by sucking up all the available moisture. There is currently a project in the at the Hassayampa Nature Preserve near Wickenburg to eradicate it from the river banks because it has displaced much of the native vegetation but it looks like a pretty ambitious project. You can see it planted as windbreak along Interstate 10 in California just West of Indio where the sand storms used to strip the paint from cars and ruin windshields and it seems to be effective there as a windbreak. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > does anyone have familiarity with tamarack trees? i think i am growing one in my yard.i would appreciate any information i can get. From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Oct 10 05:00:20 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2001 22:00:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Flower Seeds References: <200110100046.f9A0kRI09375@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <004901c15148$bab1e380$f051530c@j0r9501> Refer to the Low Desert Flower Planting Guide at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1100table.pdf All of your flowers are listed there except for coneflower and catchfly (probably Silene ameria). But purple coneflower is grown as an herb and is usually sown here (Phoenix area) in October or sometimes September if it isn't as hot as last month. I find coneflower difficult to grow. My references indicate S. ameria is hardy in USDA Zones 6-10 so I think it would be worth trying by sowing in October even though it isn't listed. Seeds at cut rate prices are often leftovers from previous years - the date should be stamped on the packet. If they are old seeds, you may want to sow a little thicker than indicated because germination is often a problem with old seeds. Olin ----- Original Message -----From: >.... Does anyone know of a website that lists proper planting (seed starting)times for flowers in the southwest (phoenix)? Times for both inside and outside seed starting would be nice but any advice would be appreciated. > The seeds that I'm not sure of are: > aster, delphinium, balsam flower, coneflower,Shasta daisy, candytuft, salvia, and catchfly. From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Oct 10 14:04:16 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 07:04:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gophers References: <120.54c9dd8.28f4f651@aol.com> <002101c1513e$8a052620$0550530c@j0r9501> Message-ID: <3BC45560.70D57E13@qwest.net> In addition to our other replies, I remember that sound/sonic devices are on the market, although I've never known anyone who has used them to pass along any anecdotal input. I just happened to see a packet of them on sale at Costco last night. Many of the organic farm supply houses sell devices like this too. Linda Guy, MG olin wrote: > In addition to all of the recommended pocket gopher management and control > suggestions, here is a new one (new to me anyway) that looks promising and > that I plan to try. > > http://ag.arizona.edu/yavapai/anr/hort/byg/archive/pocketgopher2000.html > > Don't know if you would consider gassing to be humane but, in my experience, > the gophers are so destructive that I would try just about anything that > works. Also note the caveats with respect to: > > 1) does the smoke or residue left in the burrow harm plant roots and > 3) will this device have detrimental effects on non-target organisms > > Olin > > KasondrAni@aol.com wrote: > > We have gophers in our back yard. When we installed lights, they went > away. Adding a porch, so the lights were off for a few days, gopher began > digging holes again. Our back yard, possitively has tunnels everywhere. > What can I do to get rid of these guys, without torturing them. > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Oct 10 14:13:40 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 07:13:40 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200110022023.f92KNoP07827@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BC45794.BEC3A6B9@qwest.net> Soil labs are listed at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/soiltest.htm For an in-depth discussion of recommended turf cultural practices, see the lawns chapter of the Master Gardener Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html We have several publications that might be of interest with respect to the ground cover plantings. AZ1110 in the Ornamentals section is specific to ground covers, but the flowers and bedding plants guide in the Flowers segment may also be worth reading. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Linda Guy, MG fjsandjoyce@retired.com wrote: > Need help in two areas as follows: > 1) Looking for low growing flowering ground > cover in 18" wide planter in front of block wall > in which we have mini bottlebrush plants. Planter > has "umbrella" type sprinklers which are adjustable > up to 10 gallon of water per hour and come on when > the lawn sprinklers come on. How much water should > the mini bottlebrushes and recommened ground cover > get vs the lawn? Should the shrub heads be changed > to soaker type and if so what size? Would like to > put in a couple of sage bushes for desert turtles > to eat but how do they hold up to watering? Would > like everything to be watered at same time and at > same rate as lawn if possible. > 2) Lawn soil is beginning to crack and some areas the > grass will not grow. Birds are pecking at soil and > putting holes in ground. Have tried bent grass, > tall red fescue, rye, dicondra, bluegrass and same result- > will grow for a while then patchs die off. Watering > every other day for about 1/2 hour to a full hour > depending of temperature. Have been fertilizing twice > a year - same result. Have 2 large shade trees so > need grass that will grow in shade and full sun. > Is it possible that the soil is worn out? Is there > any place to send soil samples to get soil tested? > Thank You - Frank Steinmetz > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Oct 10 14:20:06 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 07:20:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lime production References: <200110100355.f9A3tnI03416@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BC45916.B5FA6ED6@qwest.net> A few citrus are alternate-bearing [tree alternates between heavy and light years of fruit production], but I've not heard this attributed to limes. It is more likely to be a matter of winter chill, as limes are very cold sensitive and need to be established in a warm microclimate in the home garden and protected from frost. Limes are not grown commercially in the Salt River valley for this reason. As I recall, last winter was cooler than it has been for a spell. Check out AZ 1001 for a discussion of citrus at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Linda Guy, MG onlyu56@home.com wrote: > I planted a Mexican lime tree a couple of years ago. Last year it had so many limes we couldn't use them all. > > This year, we don't have a single lime. > > The leaves look healthy, but no fruit. > > Can you help me to understand why we have no fruit this year? > > Thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lpo937@worldnet.att.net Wed Oct 10 16:21:04 2001 From: lpo937@worldnet.att.net (lpo937@worldnet.att.net) Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 09:21:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200110101621.f9AGL3I20177@Ag.arizona.edu> Hi I have a problem with yellow leaves on my Lemon and Grapefruit trees. Can you tell me what I am doing wrong? I will make sure I record and file your answer because I imagine you get this question almost every year. Thank you Larry O From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Oct 10 19:01:01 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2001 12:01:01 -0700 Su