From BJKantor@aol.com Sat Sep 1 01:58:38 2001 From: BJKantor@aol.com (BJKantor@aol.com) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 18:58:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109010158.f811wcQ23348@Ag.arizona.edu> What is the best way to eliminate the cat claw vine? From TL2J@home.com Sat Sep 1 18:02:08 2001 From: TL2J@home.com (TL2J@home.com) Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2001 11:02:08 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109011802.f81I28Q05668@Ag.arizona.edu> WOULD LIKE TO BUY A COMPOST BIN FOR MY BACKYARD IN CENTRAL PHOENIX. WHAT TYPE WOULD YOU SUGGEST AND WHERE SHOULD I PUT IT? From dubal@juno.com Sat Sep 1 19:46:39 2001 From: dubal@juno.com (dubal@juno.com) Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2001 12:46:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109011946.f81JkdQ21655@Ag.arizona.edu> I have several established plumbago bushes. They have done very well and suddenly this summer, parts of them have died. Sometimes more than half of the plant. I am not certain what to do about it. Same has happened to some of my hibiscus, including a white hibiscus that had been previously doing well. Thanks for your help. Lisa From dubal@juno.com Sat Sep 1 19:50:46 2001 From: dubal@juno.com (dubal@juno.com) Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2001 12:50:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109011950.f81JokQ21978@Ag.arizona.edu> Would you be able to tell me where I could have my soil ph tested?? Also, where might I find a gardener who would be able to design four small flower beds so that they have either greens all year round or flowers all year round? Since they are fairly small beds I don't know if it would be worth the while of a landscape architect, yet I want to enjoy these flower beds. I would prefer someone who takes the soil ph into consideration. Is there anywhere I could look for such a person? Thanks Lisa From dubal@juno.com Sat Sep 1 19:53:05 2001 From: dubal@juno.com (dubal@juno.com) Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2001 12:53:05 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109011953.f81Jr5Q22136@Ag.arizona.edu> From dubal@juno.com Sat Sep 1 19:53:52 2001 From: dubal@juno.com (dubal@juno.com) Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2001 12:53:52 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109011953.f81JrqQ22161@Ag.arizona.edu> I just found your link to the ph testing companies. You may ignore that part of my inquiry. Thanks Lisa Duba From millero@worldnet.att.net Sat Sep 1 21:27:58 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2001 14:27:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200109011802.f81I28Q05668@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <003a01c1332d$29357a40$8b51530c@j0r9501> The Skunk Creek landfill in North Phoenix makes compost bins from the city's used trash bins by cutting off the bottom and drill 1-inch holes in the sides. Works as well as the fancy, expensive ones. You turn the thing upside down so it tapers up, then lay the lid on top of it. Cost $5.00 last time I checked. You can keep it in the back yard but if you plan to use it for kitchen scraps, It is a good idea to sprinkle soil over it when it is added to keep flies away. Flies are usually not a problem with yard and garden waste and debris -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > WOULD LIKE TO BUY A COMPOST BIN FOR MY BACKYARD IN CENTRAL PHOENIX. WHAT TYPE WOULD YOU SUGGEST AND WHERE SHOULD I PUT IT? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Sep 1 23:26:53 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2001 19:26:53 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] How should I water when applying fertilizer? Message-ID: <14b.4a34ce.28c2c8bd@aol.com> --part1_14b.4a34ce.28c2c8bd_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Since the feeder roots on a tree are out near the drip line that is the best place to apply the fertilizer. You better hurry with the fertilizer because U of A recommends that August is the last month of the year to apply fertilizer. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_14b.4a34ce.28c2c8bd_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Since the feeder roots on a tree are out near the drip line that is the best
place to apply the fertilizer. You better hurry with the fertilizer because U
of A recommends that August is the last month of the year to apply fertilizer.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_14b.4a34ce.28c2c8bd_boundary-- From Ranger1242@aol.com Sun Sep 2 12:18:57 2001 From: Ranger1242@aol.com (Ranger1242@aol.com) Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2001 05:18:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109021218.f82CIvQ01557@Ag.arizona.edu> I had such a great response from my last question, I thought I would ask another one. I have noticed a white fungus-like growth on many of the prickly pear cactus in the area. What causes this? (my guess is too much water), and how do you control it? and is there any hope of saving one with a serious case of this? Thanks to all of the master gardeners for their answers. From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Sun Sep 2 12:31:09 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2001 05:31:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [Arid_gardener]Cochineal Scale References: <200109021218.f82CIvQ01557@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <001301c133ab$259f36e0$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> What you have is cochineal scale. If left untreated the cochineal multiplies and covers the plant. This is not only an eyesore; it can weaken and kill the host plant as the insect is sucking the plant juices. Here is a link that discusses the different methods of dealing with this pest. http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening/news/azdailystar/fuzz_prickly_pear.html An interesting aside is that after Cortez invaded the new world, he found the Aztecs using cochineal scale as a dye for their fabrics. The red color was not marched by anything in the old world. It soon became Spain's third most valuable export. It is still used as a coloring agent in some cosmetics and beverages. Scott Rogers MG To: Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 5:18 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I had such a great response from my last question, I thought I would ask another one. > I have noticed a white fungus-like growth on many of the prickly pear cactus in the area. What causes this? (my guess is too much water), and how do you control it? and is there any hope of saving one with a serious case of this? Thanks to all of the master gardeners for their answers. From jkarczewski@home.com Sun Sep 2 16:56:15 2001 From: jkarczewski@home.com (jkarczewski@home.com) Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2001 09:56:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109021656.f82GuFQ14748@Ag.arizona.edu> I have five trees that had to be removed because they have died. They lost their leaves and became brittle. Two trees were pine, two were elms and one was a very large Acacia. It looks like the roots rottened away. The roots look like they, the roots, turned to poweder and are yellow in appearance. I would like to get some professional help but don't know where to get such help. I am reluctant to replant without determining what caused the loss of these trees. Thanks From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Sep 2 19:46:29 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2001 15:46:29 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Trees, several have died Message-ID: <26.1ab88d8b.28c3e695@aol.com> --part1_26.1ab88d8b.28c3e695_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit With the loss of several trees there may be a pathogen involved, but the first thing I would suggest that you check out is proper irrigation at this site: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html If the irrigation is ok then take root samples ( 6 to 8 inches long by finger size, do not wash, and as fresh as possible ) to Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for an examination. Texas Root Rot could be the culprit. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_26.1ab88d8b.28c3e695_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit With the loss of several trees there may be a pathogen involved, but the
first thing I would suggest that you check out is proper irrigation at this
site: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html
If the irrigation is ok then take  root samples ( 6 to 8 inches long by
finger size, do not wash, and as fresh as possible ) to Maricopa County
Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040  for an examination.
Texas Root Rot could be the culprit.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist

--part1_26.1ab88d8b.28c3e695_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Sep 2 20:57:29 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2001 16:57:29 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit tree died Message-ID: <160.2fb7f5.28c3f739@aol.com> --part1_160.2fb7f5.28c3f739_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit With 5 pounds of fertilizer each application you may be applying too much fertilizer to the grapefruit tree. Since you didn't tell us what chemical analysis I can't be sure. University of Arizona recommends applying 5 pounds of actual nitrogen per year to grapefruiut trees in three applications. For other citrus trees the amount is doubled. If the fertilizer you used contained 21% nitrogen then you should apply approximately 2 pounds per application. If the N content was 10%, 3.3 pounds should be applied. If this were the case I doubt if the over application by itself would kill the tree. That leaves irrigation as suspect, however once per week in summer sounds ok. To be sure check out this site for proper irrigation advice: www.ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151 A rapid colapse of a tree is one of the symptoms of Texas Root Rot, however most of the citrus planted in Arizona have been grafted on sour orange root stock which is resistant to TRR. This doesn't mean that the tree is immune but TRR is not often found on citrus here in the low desert. A root sample would help in making a determination, bring a 6 to 8 inch long by finger size root sample, unwashed and as fresh as possible to Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for an examination. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_160.2fb7f5.28c3f739_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit With 5 pounds of fertilizer each application you may be applying too much
fertilizer to the grapefruit tree. Since you didn't tell us what chemical
analysis I can't be sure. University of Arizona  recommends applying 5 pounds
of actual nitrogen per year to grapefruiut trees in three applications. For
other citrus trees the amount is doubled. If the fertilizer you used
contained 21% nitrogen  then you should apply approximately 2 pounds per
application. If the N content was 10%, 3.3 pounds should be applied. If this
were the case I doubt if the over application by itself would kill the tree.
That leaves irrigation as suspect, however once per week in summer sounds ok.
To be sure check out this site for proper irrigation advice:  
www.ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151

A rapid colapse of a tree is one of the symptoms of Texas Root Rot, however
most of the citrus planted in Arizona have been grafted on sour orange root
stock which is resistant to TRR. This doesn't mean that the tree is immune
but TRR is not often found on citrus here in the low desert. A root sample
would help in making a determination, bring a 6 to 8 inch long by finger size
root sample, unwashed and as fresh as possible to Maricopa County Cooperative
Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for an examination.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_160.2fb7f5.28c3f739_boundary-- From jmortimer111@cybertrails.com Mon Sep 3 01:20:34 2001 From: jmortimer111@cybertrails.com (jmortimer111@cybertrails.com) Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2001 18:20:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109030120.f831KYQ27232@Ag.arizona.edu> What is the most effective weed killer spray for graveled surfaces in Surprise, AZ? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Sep 3 16:23:46 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 12:23:46 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Weed killer for gravel surfaces Message-ID: <67.192f4b94.28c50892@aol.com> --part1_67.192f4b94.28c50892_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit A preemergent herbicide such as Surflan applied twice a year in October November and February March will help to prevent the weeds from sprouting. For ACTIVELY growing weeds glyphosate ( Roundup ) has done a good job for me. I emphasized actively because the best time to apply a herbicide to weeds is a few days after a rain and the best kill will be when the weeds are young. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_67.192f4b94.28c50892_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit A preemergent  herbicide such as Surflan applied twice a year in October
November and February March will help to prevent the weeds from sprouting.
For ACTIVELY growing weeds glyphosate ( Roundup ) has done a good job for me.
I emphasized actively because the best time to apply a herbicide to weeds is
a few days after a rain and the best kill will be when the weeds are young.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_67.192f4b94.28c50892_boundary-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Sep 3 16:48:58 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2001 09:48:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ripe Cantaloupes Message-ID: <3B93B47A.480D6050@qwest.net> Here's another point of view for one of our UA specialists......hope you have good eating! My vegetable professor always said that as the cantaloupe ripens, the color of the rind (not the brown netting that is on the fruit) will turn from green to orange. So, I always turn the fruit over, and inspect the rind on the side of the fruit that is touching the ground. If it is greenish, wait. If it is orangish, eat the fruit today! Linda Guy, MG From RkBetu@aol.com Mon Sep 3 17:22:35 2001 From: RkBetu@aol.com (RkBetu@aol.com) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 13:22:35 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [Arid_gardener]Cochineal Scale Message-ID: In a message dated 9/2/01 5:31:48 AM, srogerssprint5@earthlink.net writes: << An interesting aside is that after Cortez invaded the new world, he found the Aztecs using cochineal scale as a dye for their fabrics. The red color was not marched by anything in the old world. It soon became Spain's third most valuable export. It is still used as a coloring agent in some cosmetics and beverages. >> Just curious, how in the world did/do they harvest the scale? I had some on some of my smaller cacti this year, at least I assume that's what it was as it produced a red smear when smashed. So far, I've been just hosing it off - seems to work fine. Rocki From KRNinPhx@hotmail.com Mon Sep 3 17:58:18 2001 From: KRNinPhx@hotmail.com (KRNinPhx@hotmail.com) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 10:58:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109031758.f83HwIQ13326@Ag.arizona.edu> From KRNinPhx@hotmail.com Mon Sep 3 17:59:13 2001 From: KRNinPhx@hotmail.com (KRNinPhx@hotmail.com) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 10:59:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109031759.f83HxDQ13431@Ag.arizona.edu> My queen palms always appear burned or dried up. Do I need more or less water? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Sep 3 18:10:53 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 14:10:53 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palms with brown fronds Message-ID: <123.4313965.28c521ad@aol.com> --part1_123.4313965.28c521ad_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The heat and the drying winds have a lot to do with the looks of queen palms in the summer here in the low desert. Extremely important is proper irrigation and fertilization. Queen palms should be fertilizede three to four times per year with a special palm fertilizer and DEEP watered perioidically. Check out the U of A bulletin on Palm Tree Care on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_123.4313965.28c521ad_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The heat and the drying winds have a lot to do with the looks of queen palms
in the summer here in the low desert. Extremely important is proper
irrigation and fertilization. Queen palms should be fertilizede three to four
times per year with a special palm fertilizer and DEEP watered perioidically.
Check out the U of A bulletin on Palm Tree Care on line at:  
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_123.4313965.28c521ad_boundary-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Sep 3 18:29:14 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2001 11:29:14 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Foxtails References: <200108250239.f7P2d6522606@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B93CBFA.F8601A9D@qwest.net> You could use a systemic [Finale, Roundup] on the weeds as they actively grow. It impacts the plants' internal systems but is inert in the soil. To be safe, you might want to keep the dog away for a time. Linda Guy, MG imunana@aol.com wrote: > We have a problem with "foxtails". Our dog keeps eating them. We've done everything we know to get rid of them. They are in a part of our yard that we do not use or maintain. The biggest part of this side yard is dried up with no vegetation, however we have a small portion that continues to grow weeds. We've had to take our dog to the vet numerous times to have these foxtails removed from her mouth and fur. Do you have any suggestions? We appreciate any help you can offer. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From ruthleek@i29.net Mon Sep 3 18:43:06 2001 From: ruthleek@i29.net (ruthleek@i29.net) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 11:43:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109031843.f83Ih6Q17167@Ag.arizona.edu> We are looking for a place to buy, or a pattern to make one of those hand rakes used to smooth and make furrows in a rock lawn. Thanks From emici@qwest.net Mon Sep 3 18:46:52 2001 From: emici@qwest.net (emici@qwest.net) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 11:46:52 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109031846.f83IkqQ17535@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a bottle tree in my front yard that has done well for two years. Yesterday I walked into the front yard and all the leaves were brown. What can I do to help this tree. It is watered everyday on a drip system. From emici@qwest.net Mon Sep 3 18:47:32 2001 From: emici@qwest.net (emici@qwest.net) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 11:47:32 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109031847.f83IlWQ17675@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a bottle tree in my front yard that has done well for two years. Yesterday I walked into the front yard and all the leaves were brown. What can I do to help this tree. It is watered everyday on a drip system. Mici From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Sep 3 21:08:31 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 17:08:31 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bottle tree with brown leaves Message-ID: <73.127d2ad4.28c54b4f@aol.com> --part1_73.127d2ad4.28c54b4f_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Mici, I suspect that either over or under waterimg has caused the brown leaves on your bottle tree. Good irrigation practice dictates that deep watering the bottle tree only once per week in summer in the low desert is adequate. The water should penetrate to a depth of 3 feet which means that probably your drippers should run for 6 to 8 hours. Check out this site for info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Place a hose at the tree and let it run slowly overnight will hopefully bring your tree back to life. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_73.127d2ad4.28c54b4f_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Mici,
I suspect that either over or under waterimg has caused the brown leaves on
your bottle tree. Good irrigation practice dictates that deep watering the
bottle tree only once per week in summer in the low desert is adequate. The
water should penetrate to a depth of 3 feet which means that probably your
drippers should run for 6 to 8 hours. Check out this site for info on
irrigation:  http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html
Place a hose at the tree and let it run slowly overnight will hopefully bring
your tree back to life.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist

--part1_73.127d2ad4.28c54b4f_boundary-- From azhoms@aol.com Mon Sep 3 23:03:24 2001 From: azhoms@aol.com (azhoms@aol.com) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 16:03:24 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109032303.f83N3OQ20088@Ag.arizona.edu> From azhoms@aol.com Mon Sep 3 23:04:29 2001 From: azhoms@aol.com (azhoms@aol.com) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 16:04:29 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109032304.f83N4TQ20196@Ag.arizona.edu> Madagascar palm What can you tell me about this plant? I have one that is doing pretty well, but would like to more about growth and care. Thank you. From azhoms@aol.com Mon Sep 3 23:07:49 2001 From: azhoms@aol.com (azhoms@aol.com) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 16:07:49 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109032307.f83N7nQ20556@Ag.arizona.edu> twisted cereus Our plant is doing great and actually want to know what kind of care it requires. there are two very tall arms that I would like to remove as it is unbalanced with the new arms coming up, but still shorter than these two major ones. Is it unusual for the arms to flower at different times? This plant is very happy where it is and we love it. Thank you for your help. From sjbass@qwest.net Tue Sep 4 00:32:26 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2001 17:32:26 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Madagascar Palm References: <200109032304.f83N4TQ20196@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B94211A.8FE87BAF@qwest.net> You can view a past response to a similar question on Madagascar Palm care by going to http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-March/000793.html Sue Bass azhoms@aol.com wrote: > Madagascar palm > > What can you tell me about this plant? I have one that is doing pretty well, but would like to more about growth and care. > > Thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From kmillion@lcps.k12.nm.us Tue Sep 4 01:21:35 2001 From: kmillion@lcps.k12.nm.us (kmillion@lcps.k12.nm.us) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 18:21:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109040121.f841LZQ02413@Ag.arizona.edu> My husband and I are wanting to create a large berm around our property. In this berm we would like to put an evergreen tree, such as a pine or cypress. We have sandy soal and are looking for a tree that takes little water. The Afgan Pine or Pinus Eldarica would be perfect except for the fact that they get too tall and would block the view of the mountains for our surrounding neighbors. Any suggestions? We hope to find a tree that ages as nicely as the Afgan Pine. Thank you, K. Million From lankwitz@qwest.net Tue Sep 4 02:44:34 2001 From: lankwitz@qwest.net (lankwitz@qwest.net) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 19:44:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109040244.f842iYQ09010@Ag.arizona.edu> we have some cape code honey suckle flowers.the leaves are turning brown from the bottom of the plant up some of the leaves are green and very dry and brittle some are brown with the tips burned black. we water them every other day for one four, on a drip systemwe fertilize with vitamin b-1 once a month. we can not see any kind ofinsects what is wrong please. i hope i exsplained t his ok this is the first time trying to do something in this manner. please help From nwlamg@shreve.net Tue Sep 4 14:14:20 2001 From: nwlamg@shreve.net (nwlamg@shreve.net) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 07:14:20 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109041414.f84EEKg02434@Ag.arizona.edu> Do you folks use a evaluation form for your conferences? If so could we have a copy. We are having a conference and would like to have a evaluation form for our attendees. Also would you consider adding our site as a link? We will also add your site if you wish. Please let me know. Ellis Herbst Certified Louisiana Master Gardener www.nwlamg.org e-mail --nwlamg@shreve.net From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Sep 4 14:14:44 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2001 07:14:44 -0700 Subject: [Fwd: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page] Message-ID: <3B94E1D4.F3839B55@qwest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------C4005183731D7E3888AC8C37 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit A more detailed explanation of this gentleman's needs for 'organic' manure...... --------------C4005183731D7E3888AC8C37 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 80036 invoked by uid 0); 3 Sep 2001 19:40:09 -0000 Received: from mail5.uswest.net (63.226.138.5) by phnxpop2.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 3 Sep 2001 19:40:09 -0000 Received: (qmail 55017 invoked by uid 0); 3 Sep 2001 19:40:07 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO mail.nis4u.com) (205.216.140.16) by mail5.uswest.net with SMTP; 3 Sep 2001 19:40:07 -0000 Received: from unionjack [64.24.212.177] by mail.nis4u.com (SMTPD32-5.05) id AC78ED0A00AA; Mon, 03 Sep 2001 12:39:36 -0700 Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 12:36:19 -0700 Message-ID: <000901c134af$b57eed00$b1d41840@unionjack> From: "Don Titmus" To: "Linda Guy" References: <200108310051.f7V0p6Q00864@Ag.arizona.edu> <3B93CD5A.4DD3525C@qwest.net> Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.50.4133.2400 X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Sorry Chemical "free" - no hormones, pesticide/insecticide laced feed or unnecessary injections. I have found that companies call all manure organic, so I wish to be specific... So I'm looking for an Organically run farm in AZ that has cow manure Sorry for the confusion, Don ----- Original Message ----- From: "Linda Guy" To: Sent: Monday, September 03, 2001 11:35 AM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > What is chemical organic manure? I've never heard of the term. > > Linda Guy, MG > > ujgs@4dirs.com wrote: > > > I'm searching for true chemical organic manure here in Az. > > It seems that all the organic milk products come from California. > > > > Call me if you wish 480-962-6353 > > > > Thanks Don > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > --------------C4005183731D7E3888AC8C37-- From daniel.y.chiang@intel.com Tue Sep 4 21:09:40 2001 From: daniel.y.chiang@intel.com (daniel.y.chiang@intel.com) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 14:09:40 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109042109.f84L9eg03385@Ag.arizona.edu> I'm new to the valley and a recent homeowner. I am looking for sources of information on how to maintain a lawn here in the desert. Including when to aerate, overseed, what to overseed with, how much to water, how to control diseases, how to thatch etc. If anyone can provide me with good references (books, websites or just personal experience), it would be great! Thanks Dan Chiang From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Tue Sep 4 21:23:34 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 14:23:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lawn Information References: <200109042109.f84L9eg03385@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <019e01c13587$db0cf0c0$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> A good source of the of information that you are seeking can be found in the Arizona Master Gardeners Manual. Use this link to access the manual http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/ Scott Rogers ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 2:09 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I'm new to the valley and a recent homeowner. I am looking for sources of information on how to maintain a lawn here in the desert. Including when to aerate, overseed, what to overseed with, how much to water, how to control diseases, how to thatch etc. > > If anyone can provide me with good references (books, websites or just personal experience), it would be great! > > Thanks From crollkenneth@hotmail.com Tue Sep 4 21:23:13 2001 From: crollkenneth@hotmail.com (Kenneth Croll) Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2001 14:23:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] no 'maters!! Message-ID: i have many blossoms on my tomato plants but no 'maters!! whats up w/that? i miracle grow them, plenty of water,filtered sun& even mulch. but they just keep growing blossoms that dont turn into fruit. is it due to lack of bees? should i self pollinate? if so how do i go about it?....or are my plants just on stike...like The Attack Of The Non-Killer Tomatoes!! please respond with some kind of clue. thanks,ken~ crollkenneth@hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Tue Sep 4 21:33:36 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 14:33:36 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] no tomatoes References: Message-ID: <01a801c13589$42acd820$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> The blossoms can't pollinate. Temperatures over 90 degrees kill the pollen. Scott Rogers ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kenneth Croll" To: Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 2:23 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] no 'maters!! > i have many blossoms on my tomato plants but no 'maters!! whats up w/that? i > miracle grow them, plenty of water,filtered sun& even mulch. but they just > keep growing blossoms that dont turn into fruit. is it due to lack of bees? > should i self pollinate? if so how do i go about it?....or are my plants > just on stike...like The Attack Of The Non-Killer Tomatoes!! please > respond with some kind of clue. thanks,ken~ > crollkenneth@hotmail.com > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu Tue Sep 4 22:01:50 2001 From: cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu (Carol Noyes) Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2001 15:01:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ethnobotany Symposium Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20010904142900.00ab6380@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_3039123==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Arizona Ethnobotanical Research Association Presents Issues without Borders A Bioregional Ethnobotanical Perspective Fourth Annual Ethnobotany Symposium September 14-15, 2001 at the Coconino Center for the Arts in Flagstaff, Arizona +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Friday, Sept. 14, 7:30-9:30 pm Evening Keynote Speaker: Vernon Masayesva Patuwaqatsi, Water-Life: If The Springs Dry Up Saturday, Sept. 15, 9:00 am to 6:00 pm Dr. Barney T. Burns: The Conservation of Cultural/Environmental Habitats: Recent Efforts in Northern Mexico In Memory of Jerome Jackson: Collecting Navajo Medicinal Plants: An Ethical Approach Janneli Miller: Birthing Practices and Plant Medicines among the Raramuri Women of Northern Mexico Felipe Molina: Yoeme (Yaqui) Ethnobotany: Mexico and Arizona Dr. Enrique Salmon: Bear Dances, Coffee, and Teenage Help: Ethnobotany among the Southern Ute of Colorado Lucille Watahomigie: Yuman Plants and People: Both sides of the Border Plus a variety of hands-on demonstrations and exhibits! Saturday Evening, 7:00-9:00 pm Join us for an evening of Poetry and Traditional Dance with the Hopi Second Mesa/Shongopovi Dance and Drum Troupe ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Cost: Pre-Registration is $40, $30 for students, Pre-Registration is recommended. The day of the event cost will be $50, no discount. AERA Phone: 520-774-2884, email: azethnobotany@hotmail.com For more information go to www.infomagic.net/~fdedera All proceeds benefit the educational activities of the AERA 501 (c) 3 --=====================_3039123==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
Arizona Ethnobotanical Research Association
Presents
Issues without Borders
A Bioregional Ethnobotanical Perspective
Fourth Annual Ethnobotany Symposium
September 14-15, 2001
at the Coconino Center for the Arts in Flagstaff, Arizona

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Friday, Sept. 14, 7:30-9:30 pm

Evening Keynote Speaker: Vernon Masayesva Patuwaqatsi, Water-Life: If The Springs Dry Up

Saturday, Sept. 15, 9:00 am to 6:00 pm

Dr. Barney T. Burns: The Conservation of Cultural/Environmental Habitats: Recent Efforts in Northern Mexico

In Memory of Jerome Jackson: Collecting Navajo Medicinal Plants: An Ethical Approach

Janneli Miller: Birthing Practices and Plant Medicines among the Raramuri Women of Northern Mexico

Felipe Molina: Yoeme (Yaqui) Ethnobotany: Mexico and Arizona

Dr. Enrique Salmon: Bear Dances, Coffee, and Teenage Help: Ethnobotany among the Southern Ute of Colorado

Lucille Watahomigie: Yuman Plants and People: Both sides of the Border

Plus a variety of hands-on demonstrations and exhibits!

Saturday Evening, 7:00-9:00 pm
Join us for an evening of Poetry and Traditional Dance with the Hopi Second Mesa/Shongopovi Dance and Drum Troupe

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Cost: Pre-Registration is $40, $30 for students, Pre-Registration is recommended.  The day of the event cost will be $50, no discount.

AERA Phone: 520-774-2884, email: azethnobotany@hotmail.com
For more information go to www.infomagic.net/~fdedera
All proceeds benefit the educational activities of the AERA 501 (c) 3
--=====================_3039123==_.ALT-- From cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu Tue Sep 4 22:35:36 2001 From: cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu (Carol Noyes) Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2001 15:35:36 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] The How, When, & Why of Grafting for Gardeners Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20010904150547.00abdbd0@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_5065447==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed The How, When, & Why of Grafting for Gardeners A Noncredit Distance-Learning Course offered by the Department of Horticulture, Cornell University, in Collaboration with NRAES Winner of an Educational Program Award from the American Distance Education Consortium Kenneth W. Mudge, Associate Professor of Horticulture, Cornell University -- Course Developer & Instructor Kelly Hennigan, Horticulturist & Instructional Technology Specialist, Cornell University -- Instructor If you'd like to learn grafting but don't have time to attend a scheduled course or don't live near a university, you can now learn this advanced gardening technique on your own time at home. With access to a properly equipped computer an the Internet, you can take The How, When and Why of Grafting for Gardeners (HWWG), a noncredit distance-learning course that includes web-based lectures and quizzes, video demonstrations, hands-on grafting with live plants, and interactive discussions. The course will be of particular interest to serious home gardeners and horticulturists. How to Take HWWG *Check out the course home pate at http://instruct1.cit.cornell.edu/courses/hort494/mg/ for a sample lecture, "Reasons for Grafting and Budding." *Register with NRAES by requesting and returning a registration form at 607-255-7654 or email NRAES@cornell.edu --Only 50 students per class! *Study text- and image-based lectures via the course web site -- on your own time, from any place you like. *Practice hands-on grafting with hibiscus plants shipped to you three weeks before the course begins. *Discuss grafting-related issues with the instructor and fellow classmates on the web-based discussion board. *Test your knowledge by taking multiple-choice quizzes online. *Receive a certificate of completion from Cornell University's College of Agriculture and Life Sciences. When HWWG is Offered *The ten-week course will be offered twice: The first class begins on Nov. 5, 2001, and ends on Jan. 18, 2002 (this includes one week break over the holiday season). The second class begins on Feb. 18,2002, and ends on April 26, 2002. *Plants and other supplies will be shipped to students three weeks before the course start date. Delivery takes approximately three days. Students will be notified via e-mail when their plants and supplies have been shipped. *The course will require about four to eight hours of work per week. Why take HWWG *To develop hands-on, practical grafting skills by successfully performing at least three different grafting/budding techniques: chip budding, T-budding, and top-wedge grafting. *To learn and be able to explain criteria for successful grafting and budding, proper environmental management of grafted plants, and appropriate grafting or budding techniques for different plants and different uses. *To learn principles of botany, physiology of plant growth and development, and principles of environmental management that apply to grafting. Course Prerequisites *A high school or college biology course *Previous gardening experience *Convenient access to a computer, the Internet, and email *Commitment and motivation to undertake serious learning Computer Requirements *Pentium or Macintosh computer with a CD-ROM drive *Internet access -- 56.6K modem or high-speed connection (cable, DSL) *Java-capable browser -- Netscape or Microsoft Explorer, version 4.0 or higher *QuickTime plug-in, version 4.0 or higher (instructions for downloading this free plug-in will be provided). There will be web lectures, Hands-on Lab Exercises, and Interactive Discussions. Last day for early registration discount -- Save $25 if your registration is postmarked by this date! Course 1: Monday, October 1, 2001 Course 2: Monday, January 14, 2002 Last day to register -- All registration forms must be postmarked by this date. Course 1: Monday, October 22, 2001 Course 2: Monday, February 4, 2002 First day of class Course 1: Monday, November 5, 2001 Course 2: Monday, February 18, 2002 Last day of class Course 1: Friday, January 18, 2002 Course 2: Friday, April 26, 2002 NRAES Cooperative Extension 152 Riley-Robb Hall Ithaca, NY 14853-5701 607-255-7654 FAX: 607-254-8770 email: NRAES@cornell.edu Web site: www.NRAES.ORG --=====================_5065447==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
The How, When, & Why of Grafting for Gardeners
A Noncredit Distance-Learning Course offered by the Department of Horticulture, Cornell University, in Collaboration with NRAES

Winner of an Educational Program Award from the American Distance Education Consortium

Kenneth W. Mudge, Associate Professor of Horticulture, Cornell University -- Course Developer & Instructor
Kelly Hennigan, Horticulturist & Instructional Technology Specialist, Cornell University -- Instructor

If you'd like to learn grafting but don't have time to attend a scheduled course or don't live near a university, you can now learn this advanced gardening technique on your own time at home.  With access to a properly equipped computer an the Internet, you can take The How, When and Why of Grafting for Gardeners (HWWG), a noncredit distance-learning course that includes web-based lectures and quizzes, video demonstrations, hands-on grafting with live plants, and interactive discussions.  The course will be of particular interest to serious home gardeners and horticulturists.

How to Take HWWG
*Check out the course home pate at http://instruct1.cit.cornell.edu/courses/hort494/mg/ for a sample lecture, "Reasons for Grafting and Budding." 

*Register with NRAES by requesting and returning a registration form at 607-255-7654 or email NRAES@cornell.edu --Only 50 students per class!

*Study text- and image-based lectures via the course web site -- on your own time, from any place you like.

*Practice hands-on grafting with hibiscus plants shipped to you three weeks before the course begins.

*Discuss grafting-related issues with the instructor and fellow classmates on the web-based discussion board.

*Test your knowledge by taking multiple-choice quizzes online.

*Receive a certificate of completion from Cornell University's College of Agriculture and Life Sciences.

When HWWG is Offered
*The ten-week course will be offered twice: The first class begins on Nov. 5, 2001, and ends on Jan. 18, 2002 (this includes one week break over the holiday season).  The second class begins on Feb. 18,2002, and ends on April 26, 2002.

*Plants and other supplies will be shipped to students three weeks before the course start date.  Delivery takes approximately three days.  Students will be notified via e-mail when their plants and supplies have been shipped.

*The course will require about four to eight hours of work per week.

Why take HWWG
*To develop hands-on, practical grafting skills by successfully performing at least three different grafting/budding techniques: chip budding, T-budding, and top-wedge grafting.

*To learn and be able to explain criteria for successful grafting and budding, proper environmental management of grafted plants, and appropriate grafting or budding techniques for different plants and different uses.

*To learn principles of botany, physiology of plant growth and development, and principles of environmental management that apply to grafting.

Course Prerequisites
*A high school or college biology course
*Previous gardening experience
*Convenient access to a computer, the Internet, and email
*Commitment and motivation to undertake serious learning

Computer Requirements
*Pentium or Macintosh computer with a CD-ROM drive
*Internet access -- 56.6K modem or high-speed connection (cable, DSL)
*Java-capable browser -- Netscape or Microsoft Explorer, version 4.0 or higher
*QuickTime plug-in, version 4.0 or higher (instructions for downloading this free plug-in will be provided).

There will be web lectures, Hands-on Lab Exercises, and Interactive Discussions.

Last day for early registration discount -- Save $25 if your registration is postmarked by this date!
Course 1: Monday, October 1, 2001
Course 2: Monday, January 14, 2002

Last day to register -- All registration forms must be postmarked by this date.
Course 1: Monday, October 22, 2001
Course 2: Monday, February 4, 2002

First day of class
Course 1: Monday, November 5, 2001
Course 2: Monday, February 18, 2002

Last day of class
Course 1: Friday, January 18, 2002
Course 2: Friday, April 26, 2002

NRAES Cooperative Extension
152 Riley-Robb Hall
Ithaca, NY 14853-5701
607-255-7654
FAX: 607-254-8770
email: NRAES@cornell.edu
Web site: www.NRAES.ORG --=====================_5065447==_.ALT-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Sep 4 22:41:48 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 18:41:48 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Correction to email titled Grapefruit Tree Died Message-ID: --part1_ae.1a30e02d.28c6b2ac_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In the above referenced email posted on 9/2/01 I inadvertantly stated that U. of A. recommended annual fertilization of 5 pounds of actual nitrogen per year in three applications for grapefruit trees when the correct amount should have been one pound of actual nitrogen per year. Sorry for the boo boo. Rod McKusick --part1_ae.1a30e02d.28c6b2ac_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In the above referenced email posted on 9/2/01 I inadvertantly stated that U.
of A. recommended annual fertilization of 5 pounds of actual nitrogen per
year in three applications for grapefruit trees when the correct amount
should have been one pound of actual nitrogen per year.
Sorry for the boo boo.

Rod McKusick --part1_ae.1a30e02d.28c6b2ac_boundary-- From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue Sep 4 22:53:24 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 15:53:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] no 'maters!! References: Message-ID: <001201c13594$6c63db40$d452530c@j0r9501> If you live in the Phoenix area, it is still too warm for most tomatoes to set fruit. I have some cherry tomatoes plants under 50 per cent shade that have started to set fruit again but with the current temps as high as 110 deg, that is pretty rare. Usually tomatoes start to set fruit by the end of September if the plants had a good head start. Re bees: Most tomatoes are considered to be self-pollinating because the flowers have recessed styles such that the stigma is inaccessible and honeybees are not a significant factor in pollination. Some heirloom tomatoes exhibit an exerted style that is accessible externally but these are uncommon. Try gently shaking the blossoms early in the morning while the blossoms - this usually helps. -Olin Miller ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kenneth Croll" > i have many blossoms on my tomato plants but no 'maters!! whats up w/that? i > miracle grow them, plenty of water,filtered sun& even mulch. but they just > keep growing blossoms that dont turn into fruit. is it due to lack of bees? > should i self pollinate? if so how do i go about it?....or are my plants > just on stike...like The Attack Of The Non-Killer Tomatoes!! please > respond with some kind of clue. thanks,ken~ From umiller@azdps.com Tue Sep 4 23:34:30 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 16:34:30 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cape Honeysuckle turning yellow and brown In-Reply-To: <200109040244.f842iYQ09010@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: I have a few of these bushes myself and they're doing the same thing but the new growth is bright green and doing well. I water them daily during the very hot, dry season. Also, I'm not sure that Vitamin B-1 alone is sufficient. I give mine general purpose shrub plant food that is high in nitrogen; this routine seems to be working. So if I were you, I'd make sure that the drippers aren't clogged and see if there is new green growth. And consider giving them some regular shrub plant food that contains nitrogen. Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of lankwitz@qwest.net Sent: Monday, September 03, 2001 7:45 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page we have some cape code honey suckle flowers.the leaves are turning brown from the bottom of the plant up some of the leaves are green and very dry and brittle some are brown with the tips burned black. we water them every other day for one four, on a drip systemwe fertilize with vitamin b-1 once a month. we can not see any kind ofinsects what is wrong please. i hope i exsplained t his ok this is the first time trying to do something in this manner. please help _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From angelics_20@hotmail.com Wed Sep 5 02:49:16 2001 From: angelics_20@hotmail.com (angelics_20@hotmail.com) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 19:49:16 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109050249.f852nGg29103@Ag.arizona.edu> Hello, I was wondering whether you could tell me why the Paper Mulberry Tree's bark is so thin? Is it a requirement that he plant needs in order to survive? Your help would be appreciated Thank-you From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Sep 5 15:21:13 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2001 08:21:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Salvia coccinea References: <10c.4839239.28b9df35@aol.com> Message-ID: <3B9642E9.FEBDB3BC@qwest.net> --------------D00866C837FB34BAD2066C86 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit They are very heat tolerant but still benefit from watering every 4 or so days; I believe you may be overapplying water. They are also a gangly plant that really benefit from pruning after each major bloom. Severe pruning in late February is also recommended. Because of the lanky growth, they do well with other plants or in mass plantings. Mine have always acted as short-lived perennials, but the good news is that they reseed like weeds so that I was never without them. Of course, this presumes some available water, which you appear to have. Linda Guy, MG Namaste78@aol.com wrote: > I have an planting bed filled with Salvia coccinea that has thrived > for over > a year and a half. They have all been dying in the last 2 weeks for > no > obvious reason. They receive regular watering (every other day) from > a > shrubblier and only get morning sun. Is this simply their life > expectancy > and they are dying a natural death? what could be the problem? Any > ideas? > thanks for any feedback. --------------D00866C837FB34BAD2066C86 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit They are very heat tolerant but still benefit from watering every 4 or so days; I believe you may be overapplying water. They are also a gangly plant that really benefit from pruning after each major bloom. Severe pruning in late February is also recommended. Because of the lanky growth, they do well with other plants or in mass plantings.

Mine have always acted as short-lived perennials, but the good news is that they reseed like weeds so that I was never without them. Of course, this presumes some available water, which you appear to have.

Linda Guy, MG

Namaste78@aol.com wrote:

I have an planting bed filled with Salvia coccinea that has thrived for over
a year and a half.  They have all been dying in the last 2 weeks for no
obvious reason.  They receive regular watering (every other day) from a
shrubblier and only get morning sun.  Is this simply their life expectancy
and they are dying a natural death? what could be the problem?  Any ideas?
thanks for any feedback.
--------------D00866C837FB34BAD2066C86-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Sep 5 15:26:56 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2001 08:26:56 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Selling Seed in Arizona References: <200108300015.f7U0FIQ12402@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B964440.4258D6C6@qwest.net> There is an FAQ on the topic on the state's department of agriculture website that will get you started. http://www.agriculture.state.az.us/frequently_asked_questions.htm Linda Guy, MG leoneamerica@azwest.net wrote: > I am interested in starting a seed mail order business. Where do I find the information on the laws in selling seeds in the state of arizona? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From s2@auroranow.org Wed Sep 5 15:48:53 2001 From: s2@auroranow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2001 08:48:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cape Honeysuckle turning yellow and brown References: Message-ID: <3B964965.1ADE93C2@auroranow.org> I'd agree with Ursula here. Mine did the same thing in June when we were so hot here in Tucson, but my new growth seemed fine. Since then, mine has recovered nicely and I only water it every 4-5 days with a hose because it just happens to be off the drip system (but it gets roof runoff from the porch, which gives it a *really* deep soaking when we have had rain--maybe 4-5 times this summer.) Mine gets full hot afternoon sun on a western facing wall, but we're in Tucson and just a tad cooler than the Phoenix valley. I thought I had read in the WGB that these things thrive on neglect. I haven't fertilized/fed mine at all and it's growing like crazy. (I planted it as a small 1 gallon plant in January and it's almost 4'x3' already). Also not a master gardener. -- Sherryl Stalinski ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 ===================================================== "I became convinced we are here for each other." -- R. Buckminster Fuller From nevaux2@yahoo.com Wed Sep 5 16:38:39 2001 From: nevaux2@yahoo.com (nevaux2@yahoo.com) Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 09:38:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109051638.f85Gcdg05609@Ag.arizona.edu> I am designing my backyard landscaping, and have read alot about plants that grow well in the desert southwest. But I was hoping to have a cut flower garden full of blooms that would survive for awhile in a vase of water, and no one seems to write about that. I have already decided to do some roses and tropical bird of paradise, but would like some other suggestions as well. I have several watering zones, with a variety of sun/shade options, so a very versitile environment. Was hoping to do other tropical flowers like heliconia and ginger, but was warned they'd never survive our summers. I live in Glendale, AZ. I'd be happy for any suggestions on plants, and suggested reading, as well. Thanks, Janet From lchristini@aol.com Wed Sep 5 17:08:04 2001 From: lchristini@aol.com (lchristini@aol.com) Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 10:08:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109051708.f85H84g11667@Ag.arizona.edu> I planted a Shamel ash tree about 2 years ago, it is only about 3/4 in dia. Question is:why hasn't it grown? I water it every other day because if I dont,the leaves droop. It hasn't grown 1 in. Know whats wrong? From kbenninger@msn.com Wed Sep 5 17:44:29 2001 From: kbenninger@msn.com (kbenninger@msn.com) Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 10:44:29 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109051744.f85HiTg23568@Ag.arizona.edu> Irisis; Leaves are turning brown @ end of summer, do they need to be cut back now to rebloom next spring? Dug up? From azrigsby@yahoo.com Wed Sep 5 18:05:42 2001 From: azrigsby@yahoo.com (azrigsby@yahoo.com) Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 11:05:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109051805.f85I5gg28234@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a mulberry tree which lost its bark on the east side of the tree and up two of its branches. Those branches have now died from about a foot or two out from the trunk. Is this a disease or an insect infestation? There is no blackening but there is a fine white powdery substance under the bark adjacent to the denuded areas. Thank you for your help. From azrigsby@yahoo.com Wed Sep 5 18:06:29 2001 From: azrigsby@yahoo.com (azrigsby@yahoo.com) Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 11:06:29 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109051806.f85I6Rg28382@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a mulberry tree which lost its bark on the east side of the tree and up two of its branches. Those branches have now died from about a foot or two out from the trunk. Is this a disease or an insect infestation? There is no blackening but there is a fine white powdery substance under the bark adjacent to the denuded areas. Thank you for your help. From PERFLOWERS@aol.com Wed Sep 5 19:21:58 2001 From: PERFLOWERS@aol.com (PERFLOWERS@aol.com) Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 15:21:58 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Garden of Cutting Flowers Message-ID: Janet, First of all, go to your closest library and ask to see their notebook of Gardening Bulletins put out by the Maricopa Co Extension Service. Make copies of any that contain information that interests you. Go to the nurseries and look to see what is flowering that you like - then go home and check in the Western Garden Book by Sunset and see what they have to say about the flowers you like. There is a list of books on the Maricopa Website that pertain to gardening in the Phoenix area. Check them out from the library or buy them if you want to use as a reference book. Go to the Desert Botanical Garden in the spring when the flowers are blooming, see the plants growing around Glendale Library at 59th Ave and north of Glendale Community College and see the grounds around the Maricopa Co Extension Svc at 4341 E. Broadway. Go on the Garden Tours that are held in the spring and see what other people are growing. It is recommended that native plants be grown in the Phoenix area because they are used to our heat, lack of water and the alkaline soil. Cutting flowers can be grown, but it will take lots of water and extra work. There are 2 growing seasons here in the Phoenix area - the majority of the flowers are planted in the fall, starting in September. In the past I have grown African daisies, calendula, snapdragons (they grow year round), larkspur, bachelor buttons, asters, baby's breath, black-eyed Susans, sunflowers, pinks, flax, lupines, hollyhocks, penstemon, scabiosa, 3 or 4 kinds of poppies (not the Oriental, tho), and stock (I had a couple of plants that lasted 3 years). Be sure to get a copy of the Flower and Bedding Plant Bulletin from the Maricopa Ext Svc. Roses do beautifully here and bloom just about the year round if you don't prune them in Jan. There are six Rose Clubs in the area so you can get lots of help from them. You might want to join a garden club or at least go listen to some of the speakers. Check the list of Garden Clubs on the Website. A lot of bulbs do well here also (but not tulips, except if you put them in the refrigerator before you plant them and you know they are only a one-time thing) - iris, amaryllis, gladiola - two of the best spring blooming are ranunculus and anemones. I think you will find plenty of cutting flowers that will grow here, but do your research first and plant things that you don't have to baby constantly. Val From umiller@azdps.com Wed Sep 5 19:33:13 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 12:33:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cape Honeysuckle turning yellow and brown In-Reply-To: <3B964965.1ADE93C2@auroranow.org> Message-ID: Sheryl - I think that you're right about the neglect, but I just can't leave things alone so I feed the cape honeysuckle, too. My three bushes are against a north-facing wall where they get lots and lots of sun and heat. They love it -- even here in hotter Phoenix. Good luck to the person who originally had the yellowing/browning question. It may not be anything to worry about. Ursula -----Original Message----- From: Sherryl Stalinski [mailto:s2@auroranow.org] Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 8:49 AM To: Ursula Miller Cc: lankwitz@qwest.net; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Cape Honeysuckle turning yellow and brown I'd agree with Ursula here. Mine did the same thing in June when we were so hot here in Tucson, but my new growth seemed fine. Since then, mine has recovered nicely and I only water it every 4-5 days with a hose because it just happens to be off the drip system (but it gets roof runoff from the porch, which gives it a *really* deep soaking when we have had rain--maybe 4-5 times this summer.) Mine gets full hot afternoon sun on a western facing wall, but we're in Tucson and just a tad cooler than the Phoenix valley. I thought I had read in the WGB that these things thrive on neglect. I haven't fertilized/fed mine at all and it's growing like crazy. (I planted it as a small 1 gallon plant in January and it's almost 4'x3' already). Also not a master gardener. -- Sherryl Stalinski ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 ===================================================== "I became convinced we are here for each other." -- R. Buckminster Fuller From ricardo@uswest.net Wed Sep 5 23:19:57 2001 From: ricardo@uswest.net (ricardo@uswest.net) Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 16:19:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109052319.f85NJvg02192@Ag.arizona.edu> Wondering what variety of tomatoes and corn might do well in my area. I live in a new in-fill home in vicinity of 13th street & Maryland Ave. The soil is not too good so I have added 4-5 inches of topsoil. It is also under bubblers. The garden is 5'x 30'. Any other ideas on type of veggies for my area? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Sep 5 23:31:51 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 19:31:51 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ash tree, two years old and not growing Message-ID: <153.826c35.28c80fe7@aol.com> --part1_153.826c35.28c80fe7_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Improper irrigation is no doubt most of the problem with the ash tree that is not growing. A two year old ash should do very well DEEP watered once a week in the summer in the low desert. If you are using a drip system it should run several hours in order for the water to penetrate three feet deep. Other things that could cause lack of growth are as folows: Was the planting hole dug two to three times the size of the root ball? Was the root ball root bound when planted? Was the stake that came with the tree from the nursery and tied in multiple places removed and replaced with two stakes one to two feet away from the tree? Have you done any pruning on the tree, the answer should be no except for dead or broken branches. Have you applied a 3 to 4 inch over the root ball? Is there caliche in your soil? Check out this site for info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_153.826c35.28c80fe7_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Improper irrigation is no doubt most of the problem with the ash tree that is
not growing. A two year old ash should do very well DEEP watered once a week
in the summer in the low desert. If you are using a drip system it should run
several hours in order for the water to penetrate three feet deep.
Other things that could cause lack of growth are as folows:

Was the planting hole dug two to three times the size of the root ball?
Was the root ball root bound when planted?
Was the stake that came with the tree from the nursery and tied in multiple
places removed and replaced with two stakes  one to two feet away from the
tree?
Have you done any pruning on the tree, the answer should be no except for
dead or broken branches.
Have you applied a 3 to 4 inch over the root ball?
Is there caliche in your soil?

Check out this site for info on irrigation:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
--part1_153.826c35.28c80fe7_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Sep 5 23:31:52 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 19:31:52 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mulberry tree with borers Message-ID: <6d.19dba8b4.28c80fe8@aol.com> --part1_6d.19dba8b4.28c80fe8_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I suspect that wood borers have attacked your mulberry tree and since they are in the trunk it is probably too late to do anything. You could try cutting off the dead limbs below the dead area and next spring spray the whole tree with lindane at three monthly intervals starting in April. Insects will usually attack a tree that is in a stress condition caused by inadequate irrigation, sunburning, over pruning,old age or damage. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_6d.19dba8b4.28c80fe8_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I suspect that wood borers have attacked your mulberry tree and since they
are in the trunk it is probably too late to do anything. You could try
cutting off the dead limbs below the dead area and next spring spray the
whole tree with lindane at three monthly intervals starting in April.

Insects will usually attack a tree that is in a stress condition  caused by
inadequate irrigation, sunburning, over pruning,old age or damage.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_6d.19dba8b4.28c80fe8_boundary-- From ldlinda1@qwest.net Wed Sep 5 23:52:06 2001 From: ldlinda1@qwest.net (ldlinda1@qwest.net) Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 16:52:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109052352.f85Nq6g08167@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a small fountain and a very small yard. I would like to plant some container plants around the fountain. I like the pennisetum setaceum (cupreum compacta) which is a compact fountain grass. I would like to use xeriscape plants that would be drought resistant. The fountain does get shade in the afternoon from an olive tree but full son until about 3PM. Thank You From rchelpka@qwest.net Thu Sep 6 01:23:44 2001 From: rchelpka@qwest.net (rchelpka@qwest.net) Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 18:23:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109060123.f861Nig20177@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a fungus growing in my irrigated yard. I have tried: digging it out (but it appears to be attached to a woody stump), baking it under black plastic all summer in Phoenix, bleaching it, and using the fungicide daconil. It can look like a slimey snow mound or now in late summer it has a typical fungus crown with rust dust all about nearby foliage. Grass and flower stems grow through it. Nothing seems harmed by it and it does not seem to spread much beyond its area (15"). It grows to about 12"& dia.3-4" tall before I remove it. It always comes back.It is rather hard not soft or spongey. This has gone on for over a decade. Any thoughts? From tuffys@uswest.net Thu Sep 6 02:23:30 2001 From: tuffys@uswest.net (tuffys@uswest.net) Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 19:23:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109060223.f862NUg26088@Ag.arizona.edu> We have a chinese elm that some leaves have turned yellow and most of the bark is comming off. we were wondering why and what do we do about it? The tree is about fourteen feet tall. thanks W&F From LChristini@aol.com Thu Sep 6 03:18:52 2001 From: LChristini@aol.com (LChristini@aol.com) Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 23:18:52 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Ash tree, two years old and not growing Message-ID: <103.89b018c.28c8451c@aol.com> --part1_103.89b018c.28c8451c_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Thanks for your quick response. First off, yea, there is caliche in the soil. The nursery where I bought the tree planted it, so I'm sure they didn't dig deep enough. The root ball was removed, and tree staked with two poles. No pruning was done. I deep water every three days, letting the hose slow drip for about three to four hours till the 3 ft. dia. well is full. If I don't water for two or three days, the sparse leaves will wilt. Now they are turning brown. Anything I can do to save the tree? , other then digging it up? Thanks again, Lou Christini --part1_103.89b018c.28c8451c_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Thanks for your quick response. First off, yea, there is caliche in the soil.
The nursery where I bought the tree planted it, so I'm sure they didn't dig
deep enough. The root ball was removed, and tree staked with two poles. No
pruning was done. I deep water every three days, letting the hose slow drip
for about three to four hours till the 3 ft. dia. well is full. If I don't
water for two or three days, the sparse leaves will wilt. Now they are
turning brown. Anything I can do to save the tree? , other then digging it up?
  Thanks again,       Lou Christini --part1_103.89b018c.28c8451c_boundary-- From sjbass@qwest.net Thu Sep 6 14:33:10 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 07:33:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Purple Plum Tree References: <002001c13682$d9295ea0$3844530c@c6h5r8> Message-ID: <3B978925.C6587A3B@qwest.net> --------------6EC31009DFB9B328C13F5F01 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Joanne: Here is a quote from Master Gardener and Arborist Rod McKusick on a past question regarding a plum tree losing sap: "When a tree starts to lose sap it is a sign that the tree is under stress. Stress can be caused by over or under watering, nearby construction, chemical application, caliche, improper pruning, watering with pool water, planting too close to a mature tree, gophers, air pollution as well as other items. If you can identify the source of the stress and eliminate it your tree will be much happier." I hope these suggestions trigger something for you so you can find source of the stress on your tree. Sue Bass Joanne Mattern wrote: > You helped us a while back with an irrigation problem we were > experiencing. It was very helpful advice, therefore, I'd like to ask > another question. Our purple plum tree has sap on its trunk. What is > this caused from and what can I do to help it?Thanks,Joanne --------------6EC31009DFB9B328C13F5F01 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Joanne:
Here is a quote from Master Gardener and Arborist Rod McKusick on a past question regarding a plum tree losing sap:
"When a tree starts to lose sap it is a sign that the tree is under stress. Stress can be caused by over or under watering, nearby construction, chemical application, caliche, improper pruning, watering with pool water, planting too close to a mature tree, gophers, air pollution as well as other items. If you can identify the source of the stress and eliminate it your tree will be
much happier."

I hope these suggestions trigger something for you so you can find source of the stress on your tree.

Sue Bass
 

Joanne Mattern wrote:

You helped us a while back with an irrigation problem we were experiencing.  It was very helpful advice, therefore, I'd like to ask another question. Our purple plum tree has sap on its trunk.  What is this caused from and what can I do to help it?Thanks,Joanne
--------------6EC31009DFB9B328C13F5F01-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Sep 6 14:55:23 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 07:55:23 -0700 Subject: [Fwd: [Arid_gardener] Dichondra in Pasture] Message-ID: <3B978E5B.5114383A@qwest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------1521B608F297B8B1C3FCD69E Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I've never looked to purchase dichondra. Can someone help Burt? Thanks! Linda --------------1521B608F297B8B1C3FCD69E Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 52247 invoked by uid 0); 29 Aug 2001 03:28:35 -0000 Received: from mail6.uswest.net (63.226.138.6) by phnxpop2.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 29 Aug 2001 03:28:35 -0000 Received: (qmail 1673 invoked by uid 0); 29 Aug 2001 03:28:24 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO hotmail.com) (216.33.237.180) by mail6.uswest.net with SMTP; 29 Aug 2001 03:28:24 -0000 Received: from mail pickup service by hotmail.com with Microsoft SMTPSVC; Tue, 28 Aug 2001 20:28:24 -0700 Received: from 129.219.247.39 by lw7fd.law7.hotmail.msn.com with HTTP; Wed, 29 Aug 2001 03:28:24 GMT Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 03:28:24 +0000 Message-ID: From: "Burt Baker" To: lindaguy@qwest.net X-Originating-IP: [129.219.247.39] Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Dichondra in Pasture Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed X-OriginalArrivalTime: 29 Aug 2001 03:28:24.0509 (UTC) FILETIME=[A90666D0:01C1303A] X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Hello: I would like to know when is the best time to plant dichondra. I have some that naturally grows in my yard(surprisingly in a full sun location) and would like to seed several shaded areas. Thanks, Burt Baker >From: "Linda Guy" >To: wgk-kars@worldnet.att.net >CC: "Arid_gardener" >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Dichondra in Pasture >Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 14:01:18 -0700 > >A few of us discussed your problem while together in a class last night. >We're wondering where you live, because in the low desert of Phoenix, none >of us thought that dichondra would have a chance of surviving in a pasture >environment. Even with >irrigation, the sun and heat would be too much. If used locally in a >landscape, it is employed in small situations in lieu of turf which won't >generally grow in shade. Actually, I remember from my original MG training >that dichondra usually grew where >it wanted to be, never where the gardener wanted it! > >If it is thriving in your conditions, my next question for you is why it >would be a problem? My husband, who had ranchers in his family, thought it >wouldn't be a bad forage material, but also wondered how it could choke out >the existing grasses. He >wasn't sure about its nutritional value, but wouldn't have been as worried >about it as say, johnson grass or jimsonweed. But he wanted me to add that >it's been some time since he worked a ranch. > >There are probably some selective herbicides to apply, but you would >continually be fighting it if, as you say, your irrigation water was >bringing it into the field. Could you share a little more about where you >are, what your needs are from the >pasture, and how big a threat the dichondra is? > >Linda Guy, MG > >wgk-kars@worldnet.att.net wrote: > > > We are having a serious dichondra problem we believe carried through the >irrigation canals onto our land. Most of our neighbors are beginning to >experience this too. What can be done to eliminate this as it is killing >off our pasture? Any ideas? > > Thanks. > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp --------------1521B608F297B8B1C3FCD69E-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Sep 6 15:07:16 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 08:07:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pines/Cypress for low desert References: <200109040121.f841LZQ02413@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B979123.56448F0B@qwest.net> If it must be a pine, you out of luck because most grow to be exceptionally big. Check out the category 'Pinus' at http://www.elandscape.com/lvl/lvl.html?show=-1&order=b&by=p One exception I noted was Pinus thrunbergiana, Japanese black pine, of which I know nothing. As to cypress, you should seek 'cupressus' at http://www.elandscape.com/lvl/lvl.html?show=-1&order=b&by=c These still may not fit your needs. In general, drought tolerant trees will grow faster and larger with regular watering. By installing a berm and flooding, you would be encouraging both. Linda Guy, MG kmillion@lcps.k12.nm.us wrote: > My husband and I are wanting to create a large berm around our property. In this berm we would like to put an evergreen tree, such as a pine or cypress. We have sandy soal and are looking for a tree that takes little water. The Afgan Pine or Pinus Eldarica would be perfect except for the fact that they get too tall and would block the view of the mountains for our surrounding neighbors. Any suggestions? We hope to find a tree that ages as nicely as the Afgan Pine. > Thank you, > K. Million > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Sep 6 15:11:09 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 08:11:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plumbago References: <200109011946.f81JkdQ21655@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B97920D.F2F0E19E@qwest.net> If you share your cultural practices, we can do a better job of advising you. [Frequency of watering, exposure, recent spraying in area, fertilization, etc.] Linda Guy, MG dubal@juno.com wrote: > I have several established plumbago bushes. They have done very well and suddenly this summer, parts of them have died. Sometimes more than half of the plant. I am not certain what to do about it. Same has happened to some of my hibiscus, including a white hibiscus that had been previously doing well. > > Thanks for your help. > Lisa > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Sep 6 15:13:21 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 08:13:21 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cochineal Scale References: Message-ID: <3B979291.6AD534AF@qwest.net> The best I could come up with is that the insects are first dried. http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/insects/cochineal.html Linda Guy, MG RkBetu@aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 9/2/01 5:31:48 AM, srogerssprint5@earthlink.net writes: > > << An interesting aside is that after Cortez invaded the new world, he found > > the Aztecs using cochineal scale as a dye for their fabrics. The red color > > was not marched by anything in the old world. It soon became Spain's third > > most valuable export. It is still used as a coloring agent in some cosmetics > > and beverages. >> > > Just curious, how in the world did/do they harvest the scale? I had some on > some of my smaller cacti this year, at least I assume that's what it was as > it produced a red smear when smashed. So far, I've been just hosing it off - > seems to work fine. > > Rocki > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Sep 6 15:21:27 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 08:21:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hibiscus yellowing References: <200108301843.f7UIhFQ17746@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B979477.73434713@qwest.net> The person who generally handles hibiscus questions is heavily involved in schooling right now and hasn't been available to answer questions very often. Could I suggest you take a look at a website she has sometimes recommended to see if it is of help to you? http://www.hiddenvalleyhibiscus.com/pages/care.htm Sorry I wasn't more helpful. Linda Guy, MG rcdemark@aol.com wrote: > Is the yellowing and dropping of leaves on Hibiscus normal at this time of year? Is it possible that I have an insect or a feeding problem? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Thu Sep 6 15:24:09 2001 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 08:24:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Purple Plum Tree References: <002001c13682$d9295ea0$3844530c@c6h5r8> <3B978925.C6587A3B@qwest.net> Message-ID: <3B979519.57EC8DB3@email.sps.mot.com> --------------8B5EC8BE8632976E6CE0D068 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have tried to grow 2 or 3 purple plum tree's here without much success. From what I can tell the problem is they do not like full sun, especially in the afternoon. If you note the purple plum tree's that are doing well in the valley, generally they are getting some kind of shade for a large portion of the day. One thing I have not tried that might work is; wrapping the trunk with some kind of protection from the sun, or perhaps painting it with the white wash paint for trunks. However, I tired this one year, after it had already started sapping, and it died within a couple of days, I guess from getting the tree paint in the open wound. Lovely tree, but because it would not grow where I wanted it to, I have never tried another one. ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.gizmoaz.com Over 175 Rose Bushes Planted! Over 100 different varieties! Never a dull moment!! I never know what to call that area between the sidewalk and the street. My father called it the Devil's Strip and when I asked, he said it was because the Government (devil) owned it and we have to keep it up. -- John Mertus Sue Bass wrote: > Joanne: > Here is a quote from Master Gardener and Arborist Rod McKusick on a > past question regarding a plum tree losing sap: > "When a tree starts to lose sap it is a sign that the tree is under > stress. Stress can be caused by over or under watering, nearby > construction, chemical application, caliche, improper pruning, > watering with pool water, planting too close to a mature tree, > gophers, air pollution as well as other items. If you can identify the > source of the stress and eliminate it your tree will be > much happier." > > I hope these suggestions trigger something for you so you can find > source of the stress on your tree. > > Sue Bass > > > Joanne Mattern wrote: > >> You helped us a while back with an irrigation problem we were >> experiencing. It was very helpful advice, therefore, I'd like to >> ask another question. Our purple plum tree has sap on its trunk. >> What is this caused from and what can I do to help it?Thanks,Joanne > --------------8B5EC8BE8632976E6CE0D068 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have tried to grow 2 or 3 purple plum tree's here without much success.  >From what I can tell the problem is they do not like full sun, especially in the afternoon.  If you note the purple plum tree's that are doing well in the valley, generally they are getting some kind of shade for a large portion of the day.  One thing I have not tried that might work is; wrapping the trunk with some kind of protection from the sun, or perhaps painting it with the white wash paint for trunks.  However, I tired this one year, after it had already started sapping, and it died within a couple of days, I guess from getting the tree paint in the open wound.  Lovely tree, but because it would not grow where I wanted it to, I have never tried another one.

-----
Alan        Chandler, Arizona        Sunset Zone: 13

http://www.gizmoaz.com
Over 175 Rose Bushes Planted! Over 100 different varieties! Never a dull moment!!

I never know what to call that area between the sidewalk and the street.  My father called it the Devil's Strip and when I asked, he said it was because the Government (devil) owned it and we have to keep it up.  -- John Mertus

Sue Bass wrote:

Joanne:
Here is a quote from Master Gardener and Arborist Rod McKusick on a past question regarding a plum tree losing sap:
"When a tree starts to lose sap it is a sign that the tree is under stress. Stress can be caused by over or under watering, nearby construction, chemical application, caliche, improper pruning, watering with pool water, planting too close to a mature tree, gophers, air pollution as well as other items. If you can identify the source of the stress and eliminate it your tree will be
much happier."

I hope these suggestions trigger something for you so you can find source of the stress on your tree.

Sue Bass
 

Joanne Mattern wrote:

You helped us a while back with an irrigation problem we were experiencing.  It was very helpful advice, therefore, I'd like to ask another question. Our purple plum tree has sap on its trunk.  What is this caused from and what can I do to help it?Thanks,Joanne
--------------8B5EC8BE8632976E6CE0D068-- From alamo@ultrasw.com Thu Sep 6 16:23:24 2001 From: alamo@ultrasw.com (Signa) Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 09:23:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Care of Ristras Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20010906091345.009f0a20@pop3.norton.antivirus> I'm not sure whether this is a suitable topic for this list or not, but I also don't know where else to ask. If this is off topic, maybe someone can direct me elsewhere? Yesterday I was given a lovely fresh red chile ristra from Hatch NM. I've never had one before. The chiles are fresh, not dried, and are still soft. I was told they have not been treated with any preservative or lacquer, and are safe for consumption, but I had intended to use them for decoration, not for cooking. They appear to be starting to mold. How should I manage this ristra so that I can keep it attractive and use it decoratively for the fall months? If I hang it outdoors, will it get "buggy" or be eaten by birds? Thanks, Signa From leatherbarrow@azscience.org Thu Sep 6 17:04:11 2001 From: leatherbarrow@azscience.org (leatherbarrow@azscience.org) Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 10:04:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109061704.f86H4Bg14995@Ag.arizona.edu> Hello! My name is Leah Leatherbarrow and I am the field trip coordinator for the Arizona science Center. We are looking into taking a field trip on February 23, 2001. I was writing to inquire about any commercial growers that you might be aware of in the area. We would like to take a "behind the scenes" look at the production and/or distribution of a large commericial grower or a similar company. Do you have any suggestions or contacts? I can be reached by email or via telephone @602.716.2000 ext. 2552. Thank you so much for your time. Sincerely, Leah Leatherbarrow Children's Program Coordinator Arizona Science Center Education Division 602.716.2000 x. 2552 From umiller@azdps.com Thu Sep 6 23:04:03 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 16:04:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hibiscus yellowing In-Reply-To: <3B979477.73434713@qwest.net> Message-ID: Or you could go to this site: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/ and type hibiscus and click on the Search button. That way you can find previous q&a's on hibiscus issues - some of which also dealt with yellow leaves. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Linda Guy Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2001 8:21 AM To: rcdemark@aol.com Cc: Arid_gardener Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hibiscus yellowing The person who generally handles hibiscus questions is heavily involved in schooling right now and hasn't been available to answer questions very often. Could I suggest you take a look at a website she has sometimes recommended to see if it is of help to you? http://www.hiddenvalleyhibiscus.com/pages/care.htm Sorry I wasn't more helpful. Linda Guy, MG rcdemark@aol.com wrote: > Is the yellowing and dropping of leaves on Hibiscus normal at this time of year? Is it possible that I have an insect or a feeding problem? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From reeva5@qwest.net Thu Sep 6 22:21:00 2001 From: reeva5@qwest.net (Randee) Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 16:21:00 -0600 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Master Gardners Traini ng Message-ID: <006501c13722$3c780980$39e2e63f@speedchoice.com> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_005E_01C136EF.EABB1F60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit BlankWould a master Gardner be kind enough to tell me if your training consisted of expertise in irrigation systems? Expertise knowledge on how to irrigate a large tract of community property? ------=_NextPart_000_005E_01C136EF.EABB1F60 Content-Type: image/gif; name="Blank Bkgrd.gif" Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 Content-ID: <005d01c13722$35558f60$39e2e63f@speedchoice.com> R0lGODlhLQAtAID/AP////f39ywAAAAALQAtAEACcAxup8vtvxKQsFon6d02898pGkgiYoCm6sq2 7iqWcmzOsmeXeA7uPJd5CYdD2g9oPF58ygqz+XhCG9JpJGmlYrPXGlfr/Yo/VW45e7amp2tou/lW xo/zX513z+Vt+1n/tiX2pxP4NUhy2FM4xtjIUQAAOw== ------=_NextPart_000_005E_01C136EF.EABB1F60-- From Rmdeedle@aol.com Fri Sep 7 03:39:23 2001 From: Rmdeedle@aol.com (Rmdeedle@aol.com) Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 23:39:23 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] No Subject Message-ID: <7b.1ab169c9.28c99b6b@aol.com> Could you kindly tell me what a Master Gardener is, and what training is involved. Does the training involve irrigation for a large tract of land? What is the difference between a Master Gardener and a Landscape Architect? Would a Master Gardner be someone who could handle the relandscaping of a large tract of land (550 homes and a large amount of common area), irrigation included, or would it be better to have a Landscape Architect - plans would have to be presented to the City. Thanks for your attention to this. Rose Mary Deedle From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Sep 7 14:25:07 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2001 07:25:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] MG Program References: <7b.1ab169c9.28c99b6b@aol.com> Message-ID: <3B98D8C2.1858D4E0@qwest.net> Hope you find the attached link to our website of help. Linda Guy, MG Rmdeedle@aol.com wrote: > Could you kindly tell me what a Master Gardener is, and what training is > involved. Does the training involve irrigation for a large tract of land? > What is the difference between a Master Gardener and a Landscape Architect? > Would a Master Gardner be someone who could handle the relandscaping of a > large tract of land (550 homes and a large amount of common area), irrigation > included, or would it be better to have a Landscape Architect - plans would > have to be presented to the City. Thanks for your attention to this. Rose > Mary Deedle > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Sep 7 14:27:27 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2001 07:27:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rake References: <200109031843.f83Ih6Q17167@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B98D94F.1137949A@qwest.net> Have you received a reply yet? I'm not sure what type of rake you are describing, but I've borrowed a large [3' across] rake from my neighbors when converting lawn to xeriscape. They got theirs at Home Depot. Not sure about making one, unless you are a machinist, because this one was made of metal. Linda Guy, MG ruthleek@i29.net wrote: > We are looking for a place to buy, or a pattern to make one of those hand rakes used to smooth and make furrows in a rock lawn. > > Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Sep 7 14:42:12 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2001 07:42:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Container Plants into Larger Pots References: <200108310413.f7V4D7Q21587@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B98DCC4.30D78376@qwest.net> It would have been better if you hadn't let the roots grow beyond the container. Since the nights are getting cooler, I would proceed to upgrade the container size. Recognize that you may now have some girdled roots, and these plants never fare well. If you are concerned about daytime heat, hang some shade cloth over the containers after transplanting. Water well, but let the water run out of the bottom of the container [ie don't collect it and let it be reabsorbed] to keep the root ball flushed. Linda Guy, MG deeuubee@aol.com wrote: > We have various trees and plants including acacia, pine, lantana, bird of paradise, etc. in one gallon containers that have root growth into the ground. we are wanting to transplant these into 5 gallon containers and want information about transplanting without destroying the plant. We have tried to transplant a few and have dug up root system but the plants still die. Some of the roots have broken when removing from the ground/pot. Any information would be appreciated, also would you suggest transplanting when the weather is cooler? > > Thanks, > > David > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Sep 7 14:43:51 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2001 07:43:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Eliminating Cat's Claw References: <200109010158.f811wcQ23348@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B98DD27.EB53C2EA@qwest.net> I don't know if this is the best way, but you could use a systemic product that attacks the plant but is inert in the soil [Finale, Roundup], and dig up the debris when it has died. These types of products work best when the plant is actively growing so that it can be 'ingested' into the plant's systems. Linda Guy, MG BJKantor@aol.com wrote: > What is the best way to eliminate the cat claw vine? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From jesmather@aol.com Fri Sep 7 14:48:29 2001 From: jesmather@aol.com (jesmather@aol.com) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 07:48:29 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109071448.f87EmTg09820@Ag.arizona.edu> I have found a mulberry tree starting to grow in my yard, but someone told me they are illegal to plant in the Phoenix metro area. Is this true? Should I just get rid of it or can I preserve it? From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Sep 7 14:55:48 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2001 07:55:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bamboo References: <200108262028.f7QKSe503062@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B98DFF4.34109FFB@qwest.net> I've always heard to plant bamboo carefully, because some become quite invasive. Others feel that it may not be that big an issue in Phoenix. Use our search engine in the archives section [same page where you placed your question originally] and you will pull up a good handfull of emails discussing bamboo. http://ag.arizona.edu/cgi-bin/texis/webinator/default?db=aridgardener&arg=bamboo Linda Guy, MG HS18042@aol.com wrote: > I want to plant bamboo on the north and south and west side of my patio with ferns in between the patio and the bamboo , can this be done and is there any special things that I must do to get this result? > What type of bamboo I use? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Sep 7 15:00:16 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2001 08:00:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Iris References: <200109051744.f85HiTg23568@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B98E0FF.E9C2FF3C@qwest.net> I have cut mine back after browning, but they can generally stay in the ground. Linda Guy, MG kbenninger@msn.com wrote: > Irisis; Leaves are turning brown @ end of summer, do they need to be cut back now to rebloom next spring? Dug up? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Sep 7 15:01:57 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2001 08:01:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Vegetable Gardening References: <200109052319.f85NJvg02192@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B98E165.90788933@qwest.net> Good resources from our website include http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Vegetable http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/library/ref-grdn.htm Good luck! Linda Guy, MG ricardo@uswest.net wrote: > Wondering what variety of tomatoes and corn might do well in my area. I live in a new in-fill home in vicinity of 13th street & Maryland Ave. The soil is not too good so I have added 4-5 inches of topsoil. It is also under bubblers. The garden is 5'x 30'. Any other ideas on type of veggies for my area? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Sep 7 15:04:09 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2001 08:04:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Xeriscape Plants References: <200109052352.f85Nq6g08167@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B98E1E9.706AD19C@qwest.net> Resources from our website include http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/library/ref-land.htm http://www.amwua.org/program-xeriscape.htm http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Desert http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Ornamentals Good luck! Linda Guy, MG ldlinda1@qwest.net wrote: > I have a small fountain and a very small yard. I would like to plant some container plants around the fountain. I like the pennisetum setaceum (cupreum compacta) which is a compact fountain grass. I would like to use xeriscape plants that would be drought resistant. The fountain does get shade in the afternoon from an olive tree but full son until about 3PM. Thank You > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Fri Sep 7 15:12:05 2001 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2001 08:12:05 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rake References: <200109031843.f83Ih6Q17167@Ag.arizona.edu> <3B98D94F.1137949A@qwest.net> Message-ID: <3B98E3C5.E0FCFF14@email.sps.mot.com> I know what she is talking about, but not sure where to find one locally. They are called Landscape Rakes. Home Depot? Lowes? Garden Shop? I did find a place on-line that sales them, and I'm sure there are more than just this one website you can order from. Linda there is a picture of one at both the sites I listed below, just so you will know what they look like in the future :) http://florianratchetcut.com/product.html?t_q=FLR36 My favorite place to order tools from is Gemplers. They carry them too. You can find them at: http://www.gemplers.com In the search box type: Landscape Rakes It will pull up a list, with pictures, of all the landscape rakes they have available. What I did is; I went to http://www.google.com and I typed in "Landscape Rake" Lots of websites there. Hope this helps! :) ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.gizmoaz.com Over 175 Rose Bushes Planted! Over 100 different varieties! Never a dull moment!! I never know what to call that area between the sidewalk and the street. My father called it the Devil's Strip and when I asked, he said it was because the Government (devil) owned it and we have to keep it up. -- John Mertus Linda Guy wrote: > Have you received a reply yet? I'm not sure what type of rake you are describing, but I've borrowed a large [3' across] rake from > my neighbors when converting lawn to xeriscape. They got theirs at Home Depot. Not sure about making one, unless you are a > machinist, because this one was made of metal. > > Linda Guy, MG > > ruthleek@i29.net wrote: > > > We are looking for a place to buy, or a pattern to make one of those hand rakes used to smooth and make furrows in a rock lawn. > > > > Thanks > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From MIKEC@WSIBINSURANCE.COM Fri Sep 7 16:29:48 2001 From: MIKEC@WSIBINSURANCE.COM (MIKEC@WSIBINSURANCE.COM) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 09:29:48 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109071629.f87GTlg28834@Ag.arizona.edu> I transplanted a large potted jade plant from a patio in Los Angeles to an air conditioned office in Phoenix. It started dropping leaves, so I moved it next to a brightly lite atrium about two weeks ago. It is still dropping leaves. Please help. Thank you. From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri Sep 7 17:06:39 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 10:06:39 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Tomaties and Sweetcorn References: <200109052319.f85NJvg02192@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <003b01c137bf$f4b26de0$1752530c@j0r9501> ----- Original Message ----- From: > Wondering what variety of tomatoes and corn might do well in my area. I live in a new in-fill home in vicinity of 13th street & Maryland Ave. The soil is not too good so I have added 4-5 inches of topsoil. It is also under bubblers. The garden is 5'x 30'. Any other ideas on type of veggies for my area? Re Sweetcorn: Most varieties do pretty well if planted at the proper time. It is a bit late now for fall corn. One can usually get a crop of early- or mid-season corn if planted before Labor Day and if the weather cooperates. Last year, I had a mid-season type, planted on Labor Day, that wasn't ready until the 2nd week in December. Sugar enhanced types (se) will hold the sweetness for a week or two after the first corn is ready. The older hybrids (su) begin to turn starchy right away so it must be harvested as soon as it becomes ready. Spring planting is from mid February to mid March so as to allow time for viable pollen to develop before it burns up in hot weather - frost protection is sometimes necessary. The shrunken hybrids (sh2) are very tender and the kernels have a thin shell - it is best to wait until mid March to plant sh2 because the seeds will sometimes rot if the soil stays cool too long for good germination although mid February plantings also often successful.. Re Tomatoes: The short answer is, only the cherry types do well consistently. Other types that do well one year may bomb out the next year depending on the weather - must be nature's way of keeping us humble. As a general rule, for best results plant cherries or short-season, hybid, determinate (bush) types . The long-season indeterminate types are more flavorful but fruit set is pretty sparse due to our short growing season and are more difficult to grow. I usually grow a few cherries and also some mid to long season, open-pollinated heirlooms because I have plenty of space and welcome the challenge. Tomatoes are considered a warm season vegetable (or is it a fruit?), but tomatoes can be successful as a fall crop if planted out before Labor Day. Fall transplants must be home-grown because of unavailability is nurseries. If the tomatoes are seeded on July 8, the plants will be eight weeks old by Labor Day, then allowing three more weeks for the plants to develop flower buds, the plants should be in bloom during the theoretical 55 - 95 degree F. optimum window for pollination. According to AZMET archives, this window occurs on average between September 27 and October 29. Fruit that sets after that will often usually stay green through the cool months and not ripen until late January. Some problems to expect: the annual whitefly epidemic occurs in mid to late September when the young plants are very vulnerable to damage from whiteflies and frost protection may be required after mid November. In the spring, transplants are available for planting in mid February. Any Others: If you do not have a copy of the Cooperative Extension's bulletin No. AZ1005 (formerly MC 84) "Vegetable Planting Schedule For Maricopa County", you should get one either on the web at ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1005.pdf or by ordering one from the Extension office. It lists over 50 vegetables that can be grown successfully, many of which are well adaped and may be plantd beginning now. Don't overlook the Asian grees - most are short-season, tasty, and easy to grow here. Olin Miller From crymer@Ag.arizona.edu Fri Sep 7 18:55:55 2001 From: crymer@Ag.arizona.edu (Cathy Rymer) Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2001 11:55:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200109052352.f85Nq6g08167@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20010907114415.00aea100@ag.arizona.edu> Linda, Instead of fountain grass (Pennisetum setaceum) why not try the wide selections of mulhenbergia grasses? These are clumping grasses native to southern Arizona and Sonora, Mexico and come in many sizes and flower colors. I'm especially fond of Bamboo mulhy (Mulhenbergia dumosa) which looks like miniature bamboo. This one would look very natural around a water feature, yet adapted to our climate and soils. Please note that the green Pennisetum may soon be added to the list of invasive species for the State of Arizona. It re seeds easily and now competes with native grasses on rangelands. The purple fountain grass is sterile. For more suggestions on plants around water features, contact the Phoenix Pond Society http://www.phoenixpond.com. Cathy At 04:52 PM 09/05/2001 -0700, ldlinda1@qwest.net wrote: >I have a small fountain and a very small yard. I would like to plant some >container plants around the fountain. I like the pennisetum setaceum >(cupreum compacta) which is a compact fountain grass. I would like to use >xeriscape plants that would be drought resistant. The fountain does get >shade in the afternoon from an olive tree but full son until about 3PM. >Thank You > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Catherine Rymer Instructional Specialist, Sr., Urban Horticulture University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Phoenix, AZ 85040 http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ From Beverlyfz@aol.com Fri Sep 7 21:02:03 2001 From: Beverlyfz@aol.com (Beverlyfz@aol.com) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 17:02:03 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Strawberries Message-ID: <6a.131d59c8.28ca8fcb@aol.com> I need some expert advise. I have hanging baskets of strawberries in my greenhouse. They have coco fiber liners about 1/2 inch thick. Over time, the plants are either drying out or rotting off. I hook new runners into the liner with hair pins and they root fairly well, but there is a constant turnover of plants and they don't seem to be very healthy. They are in a continuous draft all day from an evaporative cooler, and the greenhouse stays below 90 most days. They get watered twice a day with a drip line, maybe a gallon of water goes through and drips out. I get some strawberries, but wish the plants stayed in better shape and they were happy enough to produce well. I have several different kinds also. I have the idea that the liner is too thick and they are never exactly at the correct depth because of it. Thanks for your input. Beverly Fizzell From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Sep 7 21:18:33 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 17:18:33 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fungus called conk Message-ID: <119.454d4fa.28ca93a9@aol.com> --part1_119.454d4fa.28ca93a9_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It sounds as if the fungus you have in your yard is called a conk. I would suggest either digging out the stump or having it removed, the host for the fungus is the rotting wood. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_119.454d4fa.28ca93a9_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It sounds as if the fungus you have in your yard is called a conk. I would
suggest either digging out the stump or having it removed, the host for the
fungus is the rotting wood.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_119.454d4fa.28ca93a9_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Sep 7 21:18:31 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 17:18:31 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Elm leaves turning yellow Message-ID: <47.10a3a3b2.28ca93a7@aol.com> --part1_47.10a3a3b2.28ca93a7_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The yellow leaves on your elm tree are most likely caused by either over or under watering. It is normal on the evergreen elm to have some loose bark. Check out this website for info on proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_47.10a3a3b2.28ca93a7_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The yellow leaves on your elm tree are most likely caused by either over or
under watering. It is normal on the evergreen elm to have some loose bark.
Check out this website for info on proper irrigation:  
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_47.10a3a3b2.28ca93a7_boundary-- From murraylindsay@msn.com Fri Sep 7 21:23:46 2001 From: murraylindsay@msn.com (murraylindsay@msn.com) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 14:23:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109072123.f87LNkg21790@Ag.arizona.edu> How and when is the best time to prune pittisporum(sp) and japanese privet? From seeds@seedswapper.com Fri Sep 7 22:24:13 2001 From: seeds@seedswapper.com (seeds by way of Lucy Bradley ) Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2001 15:24:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] RE: Seed Swapping Website Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20010907152354.01d6e3a8@ag.arizona.edu> Hello, I apologize if this email is unwelcome, but I saw you were interested in seed swapping and seed trading on the web. I wanted to let you know about my totally free web site http://www.seedswapper.com created for this very purpose. This web site is non-commercial. There is no store online, nor is there any fee to use it. The seed swapping community has been so wonderful trading seeds my wife that I just wanted to give something back to the community. If you are interested in Seed Swapping, please take a moment and go to my web site at: http://www.seedswapper.com At the web site you will find a friendly community and message area rich in content. Additionally, there is a searchable data base of seeds that users have posted to trade. Once again, if you do not trade seeds, I sincerely apologize for the intrusion. Thanks for your time, Troy & Carrie SeedSwapper.com (To be removed from our email list, please respond to this email with the subject "REMOVE" as the subject.) From crymer@Ag.arizona.edu Sat Sep 8 00:51:49 2001 From: crymer@Ag.arizona.edu (Cathy Rymer) Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2001 17:51:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] No Subject In-Reply-To: <7b.1ab169c9.28c99b6b@aol.com> Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20010907170621.0096bf00@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_29972601==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Hi Rose Mary, Master Gardeners are volunteers that assist the University of Arizona in its mission of educational outreach. While some Master Gardener volunteers are also Landscape Architects and other horticultural professionals, most are members of the community that are passionate about teaching residents about environmentally responsible landscaping and gardening. A Master Gardener would be a great source for information on plant choices appropriate for this area or as a non-biased consultant. But it sounds like the project you have is more than a volunteer could to commit to. Some cities offer grants for landscape renovations of common or public areas. For example, the Town of Gilbert offers WIN grants of $5,000 that require a match of $5,000. Your HOA could use the money for an architect, irrigation materials and plants. The match can be dollars spent by the HOA or in-kind donations such as plants, professional time, supplies, etc. The value of volunteer time donated would be considered an in-kind match. Take a look at Gilbert's grant information. http://www.ci.gilbert.az.us/neighbor/win.htm I would suggest that you consider hiring a landscape professional for the installation and architectural drawings. Here are some titles and definitions for horticultural professionals. Arizona Certified Landscape Professional A landscaper who has received certification by the Arizona Landscape Contractors Association. Contact: Arizona Landscape Contractors Association, 331 N. First Avenue, Suite 250, Phoenix, AZ 85003. Phone 602-258-0126, fax (602) 2799842. http://www.azlca.com/ Certified Arborist An arborist has received certification by the International Society of Arboriculture. Exam on tree ID and care. Thirty hours of continuing education required every three years. http://www.isa-arbor.com/arborists/arbsearch.html Certified Landscape Irrigation Auditor, Contractor, Designer or Manager An irrigation specialist who has received certification by The Irrigation Association. The four certifications listed above represent different levels of certification. A Landscape Irrigation Auditor is the beginning level, and an Irrigation Manager is the advanced level. Contact: Irrigation Association, 8260 Willow Oaks Corp. Dr. Suite 120, Fairfax, VA 22031. Phone 703-573-3551. Desert Landscaper Certification A program administered by the Desert Botanical Garden consisting of 30 workshops over a 10 month period which include basic training, hand-on experience and a final comprehensive landscaping project. Phone 480-481-8161, http://www.dbg.org/4/dls.html Landscape Architect BS in Landscape Architecture; state license. Requires apprenticeship time under a licensed Landscape Architect. Landscape Contractor A landscape installation and maintenance contractor. . Testing required. Insurance required. Certification by the Arizona Landscape Contractor Association, 331 N. First Avenue, Suite 250, Phoenix, AZ 85003. Phone 602-258-0126, fax (602) 2799842. http://www.azlca.com/ Testing required. Insurance required. I hope this helps. Cathy At 11:39 PM 09/06/2001 -0400, Rmdeedle@aol.com wrote: >Could you kindly tell me what a Master Gardener is, and what training is >involved. Does the training involve irrigation for a large tract of land? >What is the difference between a Master Gardener and a Landscape Architect? >Would a Master Gardner be someone who could handle the relandscaping of a >large tract of land (550 homes and a large amount of common area), irrigation >included, or would it be better to have a Landscape Architect - plans would >have to be presented to the City. Thanks for your attention to this. Rose >Mary Deedle >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Catherine Rymer Instructional Specialist, Sr., Urban Horticulture Certified Arborist WC-5216 University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Phoenix, AZ 85040 http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ --=====================_29972601==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Hi Rose Mary,

Master Gardeners are volunteers that assist the University of Arizona in its mission of educational outreach.  While some Master Gardener volunteers are also Landscape Architects and other horticultural professionals, most are members of the community that are passionate about teaching residents about environmentally responsible landscaping and gardening.

A Master Gardener would be a great source for information on plant choices appropriate for this area or as a non-biased consultant.   But it sounds like the project you have is more than a volunteer could to commit to.

Some cities offer grants for landscape renovations of common or public areas.  For example, the Town of Gilbert offers WIN grants of $5,000 that require a match of $5,000.  Your HOA could use the money for an architect, irrigation materials and plants.  The match can be dollars spent by the HOA or in-kind donations such as plants, professional time, supplies, etc.  The value of volunteer time donated would be considered an in-kind match.    Take a look at Gilbert's grant information.  http://www.ci.gilbert.az.us/neighbor/win.htm

I would suggest that you consider hiring a landscape professional for the installation and architectural drawings.  Here are some titles and definitions for horticultural professionals.

Arizona Certified Landscape Professional
A landscaper who has received certification by the Arizona Landscape Contractors Association. Contact: Arizona Landscape Contractors Association, 331 N. First Avenue, Suite 250, Phoenix, AZ  85003.  Phone 602-258-0126, fax (602) 2799842.  http://www.azlca.com/

Certified Arborist
An arborist has received certification by the International Society of Arboriculture.  Exam on tree ID and care.  Thirty hours of continuing education required every three years.  http://www.isa-arbor.com/arborists/arbsearch.html

Certified Landscape Irrigation Auditor, Contractor, Designer or Manager
An irrigation specialist who has received certification by The Irrigation Association.  The four certifications listed above represent different levels of certification.  A Landscape Irrigation Auditor is the beginning level, and an Irrigation Manager is the advanced level.  Contact: Irrigation Association, 8260 Willow Oaks Corp. Dr. Suite 120, Fairfax, VA 22031. Phone 703-573-3551.

Desert Landscaper Certification
A program administered by the Desert Botanical Garden consisting of 30 workshops over a 10 month period which include basic training, hand-on experience and a final comprehensive landscaping project.  Phone 480-481-8161, http://www.dbg.org/4/dls.html

Landscape Architect
BS in Landscape Architecture; state license.  Requires apprenticeship time under a licensed Landscape Architect.

Landscape Contractor
A landscape installation and maintenance contractor.  .  Testing required.  Insurance required.  Certification by the Arizona Landscape Contractor Association, 331 N. First Avenue, Suite 250, Phoenix, AZ  85003.  Phone 602-258-0126, fax (602) 2799842.  http://www.azlca.com/  Testing required.  Insurance required.

I hope this helps.

Cathy

At 11:39 PM 09/06/2001 -0400, Rmdeedle@aol.com wrote:
Could you kindly tell me what a Master Gardener is, and what training is
involved.  Does the training involve irrigation for a large tract of land? 
What is the difference between a Master Gardener and a Landscape Architect? 
Would a Master Gardner be someone who could handle the relandscaping of a
large tract of land (550 homes and a large amount of common area), irrigation
included, or would it be better to have a Landscape Architect - plans would
have to be presented to the City.   Thanks for your attention to this.  Rose
Mary Deedle
_______________________________________________
Arid_gardener mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener

Catherine Rymer
Instructional Specialist, Sr., Urban Horticulture
Certified Arborist WC-5216
University of Arizona
Maricopa County Cooperative Extension
4341 E. Broadway
Phoenix, AZ  85040

--=====================_29972601==_.ALT-- From drgarnett@msn.com Sat Sep 8 05:16:32 2001 From: drgarnett@msn.com (Donald Garnett) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 22:16:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] fountain grass (pennisetum setaceum) Message-ID: ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C137EA.BFC94C40 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi - there are many plants that will do well in containers, especially wi= th afternoon =20 shade, and Linda Guy has given you some links to get you started. I would like to discourage you from planting the Pennisetum setaceum, how= ever. This is a very invasive non-native grass (from North Africa) that is gene= rally =20 considered to be a noxious weed by western botanists. It is a fire-resist= ant grass that out-competes local plants, and once it gets introduced into ou= r desert landscape it presents a fire hazard which is dangerous for our nat= ive cacti. Don't be fooled by the fact that it's sold in local nurseries - ma= ny =20 commercial nurseries sell plants that are inappropriate for Arizona deser= ts. For more information, see the following web sites: http://tncweeds.ucdavis.edu http://www.nps.gov/plants/alien/fact/pese1.htm Good luck in finding plants for your fountain area! Don Garnett ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C137EA.BFC94C40 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hi - there= are many plants that will do well in containers, especially with afterno= on
shade, and Linda Guy has given you some links to get you s= tarted.
 
I would like to discourage you from = planting the Pennisetum setaceum, however.
This is a very inva= sive non-native grass (from North Africa) that is generally
c= onsidered to be a noxious weed by western botanists. It is a fire-resista= nt
grass that out-competes local plants, and once it gets intr= oduced into our
desert landscape it presents a fire hazard whi= ch is dangerous for our native
cacti. Don't be fooled by the f= act that it's sold in local nurseries - many
commercial nurse= ries sell plants that are inappropriate for Arizona deserts.
&= nbsp;
For more information, see the following web sites:
=
 
 
Good luck in finding plants for = your fountain area!
 
    Don G= arnett
 
------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C137EA.BFC94C40-- From umiller@azdps.com Sat Sep 8 04:17:37 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 21:17:37 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Geraniums, Dianthus, Marigolds Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C137E2.84C19420 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit This is probably a dumb question, but here goes anyway ---- If I plant these flowers (geranium, etc.) now in the ground, according to the Extension's Flower and Bedding Plant Guide, they'll flower until late spring or early summer at which point I assume they will poop out from the heat. My question is: since these are perennials, will they start growing again next fall on their own? It just seems too easy to be true. And since I don't see beautiful flower gardens everywhere in these months (Sep-May), there must be something more complicated going with growing these flowers on that I don't know about. Ursula Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C137E2.84C19420 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
This is probably a = dumb=20 question, but here goes anyway ----
 
If I plant these = flowers=20 (geranium, etc.) now in the ground, according to the Extension's Flower = and=20 Bedding Plant Guide, they'll flower until late spring or early summer at = which=20 point I assume they will poop out from the heat.  My question = is: =20 since these are perennials, will they start growing again next fall on = their=20 own?   It just seems too easy to be true.  And since I = don't see=20 beautiful flower gardens everywhere in these months (Sep-May), there = must be=20 something more complicated going with growing these flowers on that = I don't=20 know about. 
 
Ursula Miller
 
------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C137E2.84C19420-- From jkandell@twistedclicks.com Sat Sep 8 16:34:31 2001 From: jkandell@twistedclicks.com (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2001 09:34:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] sweet potatoes ready when? Message-ID: <001201c13887$ee7b8f60$74aa3604@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C13849.76B49A00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I planted sweet potatoes in spring and the vines have been growing = vigorously. When should I start digging for the fruit of my labors? = Should I wait till the vines die to harvest? jk ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C13849.76B49A00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I planted sweet potatoes in spring and = the vines=20 have been growing vigorously.  When should I start digging for the = fruit of=20 my labors?  Should I wait till the vines die to = harvest?
 
jk
------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C13849.76B49A00-- From j.wildenbud@worldnet.att.net Sat Sep 8 19:39:52 2001 From: j.wildenbud@worldnet.att.net (j.wildenbud@worldnet.att.net) Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2001 12:39:52 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109081939.f88Jdqg15857@Ag.arizona.edu> I have your veggie book,but would like a planting guide the size of 8/10 sheet. Is that available? From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Sat Sep 8 20:01:04 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2001 13:01:04 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Planting guide References: <200109081939.f88Jdqg15857@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000801c138a0$fe99ce20$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> Here is a link that will take you to our site where you can download a copy of the planting guide. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Scott Rogers ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2001 12:39 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I have your veggie book,but would like a planting guide the size of 8/10 sheet. Is that available? > From sjbass@qwest.net Sun Sep 9 01:31:19 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sat, 08 Sep 2001 18:31:19 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Geraniums, Dianthus, Marigolds References: Message-ID: <3B9AC667.5AB4FC4E@qwest.net> --------------C3E73BE4B6B1D4C26031C049 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ursula: I can tell from experience with Dianthus that ours have come back year after year. They were planted in an area where a truck load of sandy loam had been brought in and once that garden had been planted, we mulched it. Our lisianthus bloomed again this year too, its second year in the ground. I can't speak for geranium or marigold as I have only used them in pots and my geranium always burn up at some point during the summer. Sue Bass .Ursula Miller wrote: > This is probably a dumb question, but here goes anyway ----If I plant > these flowers (geranium, etc.) now in the ground, according to the > Extension's Flower and Bedding Plant Guide, they'll flower until late > spring or early summer at which point I assume they will poop out from > the heat. My question is: since these are perennials, will they > start growing again next fall on their own? It just seems too easy > to be true. And since I don't see beautiful flower gardens everywhere > in these months (Sep-May), there must be something more complicated > going with growing these flowers on that I don't know about. Ursula > Miller --------------C3E73BE4B6B1D4C26031C049 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ursula:
I can tell from experience with Dianthus that ours have come back year after year.  They were planted in an area where a truck load of sandy loam had been brought in and once that garden had been planted, we mulched it.  Our lisianthus bloomed again this year too, its second year in the ground.  I can't speak for geranium or marigold as I have only used them in pots and my geranium always burn up at some point during the summer.

Sue Bass

.Ursula Miller wrote:

 This is probably a dumb question, but here goes anyway ----If I plant these flowers (geranium, etc.) now in the ground, according to the Extension's Flower and Bedding Plant Guide, they'll flower until late spring or early summer at which point I assume they will poop out from the heat.  My question is:  since these are perennials, will they start growing again next fall on their own?   It just seems too easy to be true.  And since I don't see beautiful flower gardens everywhere in these months (Sep-May), there must be something more complicated going with growing these flowers on that I don't know about. Ursula Miller 
--------------C3E73BE4B6B1D4C26031C049-- From wgk-kars@worldnet.att.net Sun Sep 9 04:15:54 2001 From: wgk-kars@worldnet.att.net (William Kirkpatrick) Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2001 21:15:54 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Dichondra in Kirkpatrick pasture Message-ID: <001101c138e6$239845e0$e647530c@oemcomputer> Dear Linda, Thank you so much for putting so much effort into the dichondra problem we are experiencing at the moment. We live in the Maricopa County Island off Higley, just south of Guadalupe. I have talked to many people here and most of us are experiencing a hightened problem this year. We feel that irrigation canals are bringing it in, but not sure as many weeds are brought in this way ( I am told by my peers). The dichondra has spread to about a 1/3 now of our property which is 1.25 acres. It is just as prolific in the orchard as in the bright sun. Just today though, I noticed it is beginning to curl at the edges as we have not irrigated for almost a month, hoping the lack of moisture would kill it. However, it is healthier around the base of the trees where I hose-watered. I did send an email to Monterrey Chemicals and they replied saying a product called Spurge Power would do the job. I have yet to purchase this to test it. To briefly describe: small leaf about 3/4", bright green, stem greenat the top and slightly red/brown down below.Does not have any kind of sap ooze when broken, the smell is very slight and nondescript. We are concerned that the grass we have which is St. Aug and Bermuder mixed with other pasture grasses is most definitly being choked out by this. We do not have grazing animals, just keep it irrigated to look good and mown tall. I hope you can solve this problem, as to the identity of this culprit. Thanks so much for brainstorming for us, and my neighbours thank you also. PS My neighbour took some earlier in the year to the coop ext. and they thought it could be some kind of clover, but not certain. Thats as far as he got. Thanks Jennifer Kirkpatrick From umiller@azdps.com Sun Sep 9 14:22:33 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2001 07:22:33 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Arid-Gardener password Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0002_01C13900.31857E60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I tried to change my mail distribution to the Digest version but need a password to do this. I don't remember ever designating a password and, if I did, it was so long ago that I can't remember it. Is there some way that I can retrieve it or get a new one so that I can make some changes to my mail distribution? Thanks in advance, Ursula Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0002_01C13900.31857E60 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I tried to change = my mail=20 distribution to the Digest version but need a password to do = this.  I=20 don't remember ever designating a password and, if I did, it was so long = ago=20 that I can't remember it.
 
Is there some way = that I can=20 retrieve it or get a new one so that I can make some changes to my mail=20 distribution?
 
Thanks in=20 advance,
Ursula Miller
 
------=_NextPart_000_0002_01C13900.31857E60-- From rjezeski@aol.com Sun Sep 9 16:31:20 2001 From: rjezeski@aol.com (rjezeski@aol.com) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2001 09:31:20 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109091631.f89GV9g08196@Ag.arizona.edu> I heard over tv the other day that we should be trimming back by 20-30% the red bird of paradise for better blooming thru out the next couple months. Is this true and if it is I have a bush about 6 ft tall how much should I trim off the top. I also would like to know when is it a good time to transplant natel plum flowers. I have dug some holes about 2 ft in diameter and about 1 ft deep and put some potting soil and organic compost in the hole bit not transplanted the flower yet From janety@cableaz.com Sun Sep 9 22:49:27 2001 From: janety@cableaz.com (janety@cableaz.com) Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2001 15:49:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109092249.f89MnRg09111@Ag.arizona.edu> Why are morning glories illegal in Arizona? From sjbass@qwest.net Sun Sep 9 22:52:45 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sun, 09 Sep 2001 15:52:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Planting calendar References: <200109081939.f88Jdqg15857@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B9BF2BD.C1ABF716@qwest.net> If you go the following link: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Vegetable Publication AZ1005 is a vegetable planting calendar that you can dowload. It will print off on a regular 8-1/2 x 11 size page. Would this work for you? Sue Bass Master Gardener j.wildenbud@worldnet.att.net wrote: > I have your veggie book,but would like a planting guide the size of 8/10 sheet. Is that available? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun Sep 9 21:12:47 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 09 Sep 2001 14:12:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Veggie Problems References: <200108111558.f7BFw9r28151@Ag.arizona.edu> <3B827408.72975AC9@qwest.net> <000601c12aae$ccdb8860$12f90e18@phnx2.az.home.com> <3B83C544.595C6FAD@qwest.net> <000601c12c58$c4377ec0$12f90e18@phnx2.az.home.com> <3B8929C4.AD84240E@qwest.net> <001001c13970$b61f27a0$12f90e18@phnx2.az.home.com> Message-ID: <3B9BDB4E.A8ED61E8@qwest.net> Although you might start seeing cilantro at KMart, the Home Depot and other stores now, I'd wait until October and some heat relief. Unless it could be placed in some heavily filtered shade. Cilantro, dill, anise, fennel, cumin, parsley, borage, are cool season herbs which often bolt when the heat arrives in springtime. Even with some shade, the heat could cause the plant to bolt [send up flower/seed stalks] and die. Your basil is doing wonderfully because it is a warm season herb. You might be able to nurse it through the winter [though it never tastes very good that second season, in my opinion]. The leaves turn black when it is even kissed by frost. If your space is limited, you might consider enjoying the basil for a while longer, harvesting some [I dry mine on stacks of sweater drying racks indoors, away from direct sun and dust] before pulling out the plant and putting in some cool season herbs. My herb bed has perennials permanently placed in suitable exposures [oregano, marjoram, burnet, chives, rosemary, mints, thyme, sage, though the latter two tend to be shorter-lived perennials]. In the various 'holes' I rotate annual herbs in the appropriate season. I patronize a number of stores and nurseries and catalogs, and have not had a lot of issues with the big discounters vs specialty stores/catalogs. The latter are nice for things not commonly seen. This is similar to our prior conversations about how difficult it was to pull out winter veggies to make room for summer ones and vice versa! Good luck. Linda Guy, MG Vicki Brand wrote: > Can we grow cilantro here? I have been working on starting some in a clay > pot and have not had any success. I thought it was easy to grow. The basil > is doing wonderfully. > Where do you suggest I buy my seeds and plants so I get them from someone > who can help me get something that grows well in the desert? I always try > to buy the quickest maturing varieties. I have been getting them from > Kmart - probably not the best place. > Thanks, > Vicki From johnsonkm@home.com Mon Sep 10 14:25:40 2001 From: johnsonkm@home.com (Karl Johnson) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 07:25:40 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Yellow Bell Seed Pods Message-ID: <001201c13a04$77e103c0$db790918@phnx3.az.home.com> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000E_01C139C9.CB577240 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_001_000F_01C139C9.CB577240" ------=_NextPart_001_000F_01C139C9.CB577240 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable BlankI have some Yellow Bell bushes that are new this year. I never had = Yellow Bell plants in my yard before, but had them added when the yard = was re-landscaped in the spring. The flowers all seem to have turned into seed pods. Is there any reason = to leave the pods on the plants or can I snip them all off?=20 How do I go about pruning the plants to make bushes out of them? When = should they be pruned? Thank you,=20 Karl Johnson ------=_NextPart_001_000F_01C139C9.CB577240 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Blank
I have some Yellow Bell bushes that are new this year. I never had = Yellow=20 Bell plants in my yard before, but had them added when the yard was=20 re-landscaped in the spring.
 
The flowers all seem to have turned into seed pods. Is there any = reason to=20 leave the pods on the plants or can I snip them all off?
 
How do I go about pruning the plants to make bushes out of them? = When=20 should they be pruned?
 
Thank you,
Karl Johnson

 

------=_NextPart_001_000F_01C139C9.CB577240-- ------=_NextPart_000_000E_01C139C9.CB577240 Content-Type: application/octet-stream; name="Blank Bkgrd.gif" Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 Content-ID: <000d01c13a04$77aea920$db790918@phnx3.az.home.com> R0lGODlhLQAtAID/AP////f39ywAAAAALQAtAEACcAxup8vtvxKQsFon6d02898pGkgiYoCm6sq2 7iqWcmzOsmeXeA7uPJd5CYdD2g9oPF58ygqz+XhCG9JpJGmlYrPXGlfr/Yo/VW45e7amp2tou/lW xo/zX513z+Vt+1n/tiX2pxP4NUhy2FM4xtjIUQAAOw== ------=_NextPart_000_000E_01C139C9.CB577240-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Sep 10 15:24:29 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 15:24:29 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] morning glory Message-ID: I have always heard that morning glories are illegal in Arizona because cotton is an important economic crop and morning glory "binds up" the harvesting equipment. I have asked your question to the University of Arizona College of Law and will post an official answer when I receive it. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: janety@cableaz.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2001 15:49:27 -0700 (MST) > >Why are morning glories illegal in Arizona? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Sep 10 15:36:48 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 15:36:48 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Yellow Bell Seed Pods Message-ID: Karl, If you don't want to save seed, the spent flowers and pods can just be snipped. Yellow Bells is a large shrub, 5 to 10 feet high and 6 to 8 feet wide. Cut back long straggly growth as needed. If frost damage occurs, remove affected parts in early spring. (from Johnson's book, "Pruning, Planting and Care"). Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Karl Johnson" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Yellow Bell Seed Pods >Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 07:25:40 -0700 > >BlankI have some Yellow Bell bushes that are new this year. I never had >Yellow Bell plants in my yard before, but had them added when the yard was >re-landscaped in the spring. > >The flowers all seem to have turned into seed pods. Is there any reason to >leave the pods on the plants or can I snip them all off? > >How do I go about pruning the plants to make bushes out of them? When >should they be pruned? > >Thank you, >Karl Johnson > > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From ikjxs@asu.edu Mon Sep 10 18:19:19 2001 From: ikjxs@asu.edu (James Schoenwetter) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 11:19:19 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] pomegranite problem Message-ID: <3B9D0425.FD9E9DF9@asu.edu> For some years now, almost all of my pomegranites have yellow, not red, seeds. Wasn't that way 15-25 years ago, are my trees just too old? This year I built large wells around my trees (I used to use a root irrigator) and watered more deeply and more often. Far fewer of the fruit are split this year, but I'm still not getting the red seeds I think I should. Do you know the solution to this problem? Respond to ikjxs@asu.edu From JRT6632@aol.com Mon Sep 10 18:23:04 2001 From: JRT6632@aol.com (JRT6632@aol.com) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 11:23:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109101823.f8AIN4H29162@Ag.arizona.edu> We have been having problems with something eating big chunks out of alot of our cactus, thorns and all. It happens at night. We tried putting out Decon and they would eat some and some they would take the whole box away. So we switched to Real-Kill Rat & Mouse Killer. They have stopped eating the cactus but eat the poison like candy. We back up to desert and have now put up wire on our back fence but they still get in. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Have thought about pack rats or chipmunks, but shouldn't the poison be killing them? Thank you for ANY help with this problem. From millero@worldnet.att.net Mon Sep 10 18:38:10 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 11:38:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Yellow Bell Seed Pods References: <001201c13a04$77e103c0$db790918@phnx3.az.home.com> Message-ID: <008a01c13a28$3f2867c0$1e50530c@j0r9501> No reason not to remove the seed pods but don't let the pods drop to the ground because new plants will start from the seeds. It is pretty difficult to prune to a decent looking bush but it looks just fine if you let it grow. You could selectively cut off the taller canes near ground level, then you will get new shoots at the pruning cut to help fill in the lower part of plant. But if you prune at the tip, you will just get new growth near the pruning cut and the lower part of the canes do not fill in. The plant is semi-deciduous and I would expect January to be the best time for pruning but we just pruned any time it got in our way and it did not seem to hurt it - pretty sturdy stuff. We started a 150-foot long hedge of Arizona yellow bells (Tecoma stans, var 'augustata' ) for a screen back in 1983 and finally took it out last year and replaced it with a concrete block wall. I apparently did not remove all of the roots because it still keeps coming back. There were also many new plants that came up from seed. The plant grows to about 10-12 feet if you let it grow. There is a taller (looks like about 20 feet) variety (Tecoma stans, var 'stans') That was pretty common 20-30 years ago but most of the one sees now are 'augustata' so I would assume that is what you have. The leaves on 'stans' are 1-2 inches wide, 'augustata' leaves are narrower. There is also a cultivar called 'Golden Jubilee' (trademarked name). The plant and leaves look like 'augustata' but the pods have few seeds and I have never been able to get the seeds to geminate so I assume the seeds are probably sterile. Olin Miller ----- Original Message ----- From: "Karl Johnson" > ... Is there any reason to leave the pods on the plants or can I snip them all off? How do I go about pruning the plants to make bushes out of them? When should they be pruned? From wrff@home.com Mon Sep 10 18:39:46 2001 From: wrff@home.com (wrff@home.com) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 11:39:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109101839.f8AIdkH02446@Ag.arizona.edu> I am looking for a flowering vine to completely cover a newly constructed 10 x 10 trellised structure that is located on the North side of our yard. I wish to have vines completely "over take" this structure including the top. Bubbler's have been installed in the flowerbeds all around this structure. No plants have been planted here and there are no trees in this area. A flowering vine needs to be: 1. Hardy 2. Mostly full sun 3. Non tubular 4. NO THORNS or SHARP LEAVES 5. NO OLEANDERS 6. NO BOUGAINVILLEAS 7. NO CATS CLAW 8. Snail vines - not hardy enough I have heard that a vine called Hardbergia with beautiful purple flowers is what I need. I can't find any information about this vine and what it needs. Home Depot had them in the past but when I called about them they were all sold. Any sugustions on "where" to purchase them and do you have a source of information about growing them to include spacing, watering, trimming, yearly pruning, flowering season, are they messy, feeding, soil, poisionous to people, animals, fish, birds, etc? I sincerely need your help. Any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated. I have a large requirement for flowereing vines. Please asnswer as soon as possible. Thank you in advance for your response. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Sep 10 18:59:16 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 18:59:16 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] cactus eaten, rodent? Message-ID: The first, important, step is to identify exactly what it is that is eating your cactus. You need to know what it is to know what measures you need to use. The wire fencing sounds like a very good idea. You may need to check that there are absolutely no openings and that nothing is burrowing under the wire (bury a few inches into the ground). You may also need to increase the height of the wire - how tall is the wire fencing now? Exclusion (fencing) is often successful. The next step is making the area less attractive - need to know what critter we are dealing with for that. I would be very cautious with poisons -- they often kill non-target and even beneficial birds and animals. Lethal trapping is preferable to poison in most cases. I'm guessing your damage is occurring at night. Try spreading a layer of sand around the target plants and wet it slightly. Check for tracks the next morning. That will give us a clue what you are dealing with in your yard. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: JRT6632@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 11:23:04 -0700 (MST) > >We have been having problems with something eating big chunks out of alot >of our cactus, thorns and all. It happens at night. We tried putting out >Decon and they would eat some and some they would take the whole box away. >So we switched to Real-Kill Rat & Mouse Killer. They have stopped eating >the cactus but eat the poison like candy. We back up to desert and have >now put up wire on our back fence but they still get in. Any suggestions >would be appreciated. Have thought about pack rats or chipmunks, but >shouldn't the poison be killing them? >Thank you for ANY help with this problem. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Sep 10 19:10:44 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 19:10:44 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] pomegranite problem Message-ID: I do not know the answer -- have not heard of this problem before. Hope others can help! I would suspect the trees may need a complete fertilizer including micronutrients in the spring (not just nitrogen)because of their age. Something like a citus & avocado fertlilzer. The iron micronutrient should be chelated iron for better absorption. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: James Schoenwetter >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu, arid.gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] pomegranite problem >Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 11:19:19 -0700 > >For some years now, almost all of my pomegranites have >yellow, not red, seeds. Wasn't that way 15-25 years ago, >are my trees just too old? This year I built large wells >around my trees (I used to use a root irrigator) and watered > >more deeply and more often. Far fewer of the fruit are >split this year, but I'm still not getting the red seeds I >think I should. Do you know the solution to this problem? > >Respond to ikjxs@asu.edu > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From rdmckiney3@home.com Tue Sep 11 00:39:36 2001 From: rdmckiney3@home.com (rdmckiney3@home.com) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 17:39:36 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109110039.f8B0daH17839@Ag.arizona.edu> My pomegranate tree has lots of fruit, but they explode on the tree. It has done this fo r t he last few years,what am I doing wrong? From rcitro@hotmail.com Tue Sep 11 02:56:58 2001 From: rcitro@hotmail.com (rcitro@hotmail.com) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 19:56:58 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109110256.f8B2uwH22382@Ag.arizona.edu> we are moving out there this November and would like to grow tomatoes as we're from NJ where tomatoes are delicous, but only from July-Sept. someone said in Az they grow year around, my husband is building me a table hollowed out for the dirt should I grow them from seeds or seedlings? Thank you From rcitro@hotmail.com Tue Sep 11 02:57:19 2001 From: rcitro@hotmail.com (rcitro@hotmail.com) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 19:57:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109110257.f8B2vJH22472@Ag.arizona.edu> we are moving out there this November and would like to grow tomatoes as we're from NJ where tomatoes are delicous, but only from July-Sept. someone said in Az they grow year around, my husband is building me a table hollowed out for the dirt should I grow them from seeds or seedlings? Thank you From rcitro@hotmail.com Tue Sep 11 03:03:42 2001 From: rcitro@hotmail.com (rcitro@hotmail.com) Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2001 20:03:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109110303.f8B33gH26082@Ag.arizona.edu> How can I grow tomatoes and what soil should I use, do I take the dirt I have on my property.Also where can I find the vegetable argula? There is a farm there somewhere between Scottsdale and Surprise but I don't know where, any help will be appreciated Thanks. E-mail- rcitro@hotmail.com From vboman@prodigy.net Tue Sep 11 13:52:28 2001 From: vboman@prodigy.net (Valerie Boman) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2001 06:52:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: <001101c13ac8$ff7f7d60$6700a8c0@boman3> I have incredible success with purple lilac vines. They have grown HUGE in just a year (we live in SE Chandler, AZ) , so I have planted eight more in my yard (why mess with success?). They are fast growing, evergreen, tolerant of anything I dish out, slip thru the winter frost (and our area is about 10 degrees colder than the temp at PHX airport) and have MASSES of beautiful purple flowers in the late winter thru early spring. They are Hardenbergia, but are not available (that I ever see) until they start blooming in late winter. Then, Home Depot and everone else will have them in mass. I also bought another vine yesterday called Purple Leaf Japanese Honeysuckle - new to me. It says it will take full sun (we'll see) and is cold hard to -10. My snail vines are huge as are my Jasmine - all in just a year... really lucky, I know. I have lots of trellises and arbor in my yard and am always looking for easy-to-grow vines. Hope this helps. valerie From Jeffleta@home.com Tue Sep 11 16:02:32 2001 From: Jeffleta@home.com (Jeffleta@home.com) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2001 09:02:32 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109111602.f8BG2WH08896@Ag.arizona.edu> I have some Queen Palms in my backyard that are now @ 15' tall. One of them is getting four spikes below the lowest branches that kind of look like unopened leaves. Are these going to be seeds? If so, how long do they take to mature and are they easy to propagate? I have never actually seen Queen Palms with seed things! From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Sep 11 19:11:09 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2001 12:11:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] CItrus Problems References: <200108240125.f7O1Pf504103@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B9E61CC.E74BE09C@qwest.net> There are some possibilities, one of which is Phytophthora, which is described and the management therefore is discussed at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/phytop.htm As to irrigating, be sure to build a dyke around the trunk of citrus trees one foot out from the base of the tree to keep standing water from touching the trunk of the tree. This will help to prevent the spread of phytophthora. Generally the well sizes should be expanded to include and reach just beyond the canopy's drip line. That's where the feeder roots are. Another problem of aging grapefruit [no other citrus] is Rio Grande gummosis. You can view a similar response I sent on the topic at http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-November/005749.html There are many more in the Q&A archives, which you can search on the same page where you originally placed the question. Linda Guy, MG Lenzingg@aol.com wrote: > Our 25yr old pink grapefruit has large light brown areas of fungus on several of the larger branches as well as the trunk. We fill the water wells around the trees in the front yard (rock lawn) every two weeks and let the water run, keeping the well full for about 6 hours. I poured water with household bleach on the fungus areas, which seemed to stop the spread. Can you tell me what this fungus is caused from and what to do about it? Thank you. Len > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Sep 11 19:25:48 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2001 12:25:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Propagating Offsets References: <200108300026.f7U0QLQ14187@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B9E653C.6F546270@qwest.net> You should do so when the offsets, sometimes called 'pups', begin to have roots of their own. Do not remove too many at a time from the mother plant as it has probably come to rely on these as well for its nutitional needs. See the MG Manual discussion at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/propagation/asexual.html Linda Guy, MG rells42@aol.com wrote: > How do you correctly propagate a sago palm from the new shoots at the bottom of the tree and when is the best time to do the propagation? > > Plus the same questions for a Diffenbachia (sp?) > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Sep 11 19:46:36 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2001 12:46:36 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sweet potatoes ready when? References: <001201c13887$ee7b8f60$74aa3604@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <3B9E6A1C.6A12D489@qwest.net> --------------E5D80987BBD3AE5F1826B8B4 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Brookbank's book says end of summer, with no further advice on harvest clues. Barbara Pleasant's Warm Climate Gardening suggests you start digging after you've sneaked a peak and decided that they are the size you want. Usually early fall. [She also suggests allowing them to cure in a warm dry place for two weeks before storage to help skin wounds heal.] Cooperative Extension Fact Sheet MC-3 suggests that some plant bloom may occur and the vines may begin to yellow and die back when potatoes are at their peak, but I don't know if this is for sweet as well as irish potatoes. Linda Guy, MG Jonathan Kandell wrote: > I planted sweet potatoes in spring and the vines have been growing > vigorously. When should I start digging for the fruit of my labors? > Should I wait till the vines die to harvest? jk --------------E5D80987BBD3AE5F1826B8B4 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Brookbank's book says end of summer, with no further advice on harvest clues.
Barbara Pleasant's Warm Climate Gardening suggests you start digging after you've sneaked a peak and decided that they are the size you want. Usually early fall. [She also suggests allowing them to cure in a warm dry place for two weeks before storage to help skin wounds heal.] Cooperative Extension Fact Sheet MC-3 suggests that some plant bloom may occur and the vines may begin to yellow and die back when potatoes are at their peak, but I don't know if this is for sweet as well as irish potatoes.

Linda Guy, MG

Jonathan Kandell wrote:

I planted sweet potatoes in spring and the vines have been growing vigorously.  When should I start digging for the fruit of my labors?  Should I wait till the vines die to harvest? jk
--------------E5D80987BBD3AE5F1826B8B4-- From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue Sep 11 21:05:31 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2001 14:05:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sweet potatoes ready when? References: <001201c13887$ee7b8f60$74aa3604@oemcomputer> <3B9E6A1C.6A12D489@qwest.net> Message-ID: <002301c13b05$b7711000$dd51530c@j0r9501> Another test is to simply check to see if the tubers are big enough to use. The degree of "ripeness" doesn't have much to do with it. Just don't wait too long - the tubers can become tough. Back in the Midwest we always believed it was best to wait until the vines were killed by frost, an unlikely scenario here in Phoenix but it might work for Tucson. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Linda Guy" To: "Jonathan Kandell" Cc: "Arid_gardener" Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2001 12:46 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sweet potatoes ready when? > Brookbank's book says end of summer, with no further advice on harvest > clues. > Barbara Pleasant's Warm Climate Gardening suggests you start digging > after you've sneaked a peak and decided that they are the size you want. > Usually early fall. [She also suggests allowing them to cure in a warm > dry place for two weeks before storage to help skin wounds heal.] > Cooperative Extension Fact Sheet MC-3 suggests that some plant bloom may > occur and the vines may begin to yellow and die back when potatoes are > at their peak, but I don't know if this is for sweet as well as irish > potatoes. > > Linda Guy, MG > > Jonathan Kandell wrote: > > > I planted sweet potatoes in spring and the vines have been growing > > vigorously. When should I start digging for the fruit of my labors? > > Should I wait till the vines die to harvest? jk > From billbu@netbeam.net Wed Sep 12 16:30:35 2001 From: billbu@netbeam.net (billbu@netbeam.net) Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 09:30:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109121630.f8CGUZH03690@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a date palm that is just loaded with dates. What can I do to harvest them. They usually dry up and fall. From billbu@netbeam.net Wed Sep 12 16:51:29 2001 From: billbu@netbeam.net (billbu@netbeam.net) Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 09:51:29 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109121651.f8CGpTH07687@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a date palm that is just loaded with dates. Usually they dry up and fall. What can I do to harvest them? From jonnarl@aol.com Wed Sep 12 17:29:20 2001 From: jonnarl@aol.com (jonnarl@aol.com) Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 10:29:20 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109121729.f8CHTKH15560@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like to know just when bouganvillas should be cut back and by how much. I'd also like the same info for a large hibiscus bush that seems to be getting too overgrown. From jonnarl@aol.com Wed Sep 12 17:48:53 2001 From: jonnarl@aol.com (jonnarl@aol.com) Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 10:48:53 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109121748.f8CHmrH19525@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like to know when, and by how much a large bushy Hibiscus shrub should be pruned. I would like the same info for bouganvillia plants. Thanks. From vfisher2003@aol.com Wed Sep 12 18:20:08 2001 From: vfisher2003@aol.com (vfisher2003@aol.com) Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 11:20:08 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109121820.f8CIK8H26606@Ag.arizona.edu> I want to plant a small garden in my backyard, at my son's request. However, I have a small backyard and a dog who is very nosy (he'd be traipsing through the garden). I read in the newspaper section (The Good Life)a while back (maybe this past spring) about what you would call a box garden. If I remember right, it stands about 3 ft or so off the ground, about 6-8 ft long and about 18 inches deep. Do you have any information about this type of thing or some information on how to build one of these things. I've tried the newspaper a few times, but From Meekf28@aol.com Wed Sep 12 22:59:14 2001 From: Meekf28@aol.com (Meekf28@aol.com) Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 15:59:14 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109122259.f8CMxEH24096@Ag.arizona.edu> When do I pick olives for processing. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Sep 13 00:09:35 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 00:09:35 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] raised bed garden Message-ID: Raised beds are a good way to grow in the desert. Try your favorite interenet search engine (such as google.com) and search for "raised bed garden". Following is just one of several articles that I found. Mel Bartholamew's book, "Square Foot Gardening" is another good resource. If you live near Tucson,. stop by 4210 N. Campbell to see our reaised bed demonstration gardens. Ours use pressure treated wood, slump block and cinder block to create beds about 18 inches high. Linda Drew Master Gardener ------------ How to build a raised bed garden In a lot of areas the soil is not great for gardens. Clay soil compacts and doesn't drain well, some soils are nothing but rock and a few inches of organic matter, and a lot of people don't have a tiller to plant a good sized garden. With a raised bed garden, there is no need to worry about these things. Raised beds enable you to have the soil you want or need. You build your soil in the beds, and add amendments that are needed. Raised beds are usually about 3 feet across, so there is no need to walk on the soil and pack it down. Once you have built the soil up and have added compost and mulch around your plants, there is no need to ever till the ground. It has been proven that this is much better. The soil will be alive with beneficial microbes and earthworms. The soil in the raised beds remains loose and healthy. Raised beds are the way to go. A garden with raised beds looks very nice. You can outline the beds with rock or weather resistant wood. Make them about 3 feet wide and 12 feet long. The beds need to be 8-12 inches deep. Place a few inches of small gravel in the bottom of each bed for good drainage. Raised beds can be placed on the ground or built up any needed height for each individual. All the beds should have a east-west orientation. This way the plants will not shade each other. Place the raised beds in a sunny area that receives about 6 hours of sunshine a day. You can grow vegetables, herbs, or flowers in raised beds. Fill the beds with topsoil or a good soil mix of your choice. Add good compost and mix it in. Some sand can be added if desired. After you plant your seeds, add about 3-4 inches of mulch. The mulch will break down over time and add nutrients to the soil and keep it loose. Mulch will help conserve water and cool the roots of plants. There will not be a weed problem if you mulch well. Using compost and mulch will save you time and money. Compost is a natural way to fertilize. Make your own compost and mulch and save even more money. Broadcasting seeds in your raised beds is a good way to use the space efficiently. Also, square foot gardening can be used. You can extend your growing season by making portable covers for each raised bed. These covers will be like a mini greenhouse and protect your plants from harsh weather. They will hold the heat in and keep birds and animals from getting to your fruit and vegetables. When the soil is healthy there is less of an insect problem. Raised beds have many advantages. Put down gravel, brick or rock around the beds making walkways to keep you out of the mud. You may want to have a weed barrier put down first. Put a fence around your raised bed garden if you wish. At the entrance of the garden build an arbor over the gate and plant a climbing vine. Build teepees or have vine poles etc. for plants to grow on and save space in your garden. Back up a raised bed to the fence and grow climbing plants on the fence. Make raised beds any shape you want. Put a bird bath in one. Decorate your garden with wonderful garden objects that you like. Another way to use the space is to plant quick growing plants like radishes under squash plants. Plant lettuce under bean vines growing on a trellis. Plant marigolds or other good companion plants around your garden to keep insects away. Put in a watering system with a timer. This will save you lots of time and you won't need to worry about your garden if you have to go away for a while. The watering will be taken care of automatically. When you build raised beds, they can be the correct height so the physically impaired can garden easier. Bring it up to a good height that is good for the individual. When people can't bend down or they are in a wheelchair, raised beds enable them to still enjoy gardening. If you have used cedar boards, use them to outline your beds. Remember to reuse and recycle. Composting is a way to recycle. Mulch is recycling also. Without using fertilizers, you have an organic garden which is much more nutritious than non-organic foods. If you don't have something to surround your beds with, it's okay. All you need to do is, till an area of soil or build your soil. Then rake it up where it is about 12 inches deep and 3 feet wide and flat on top. This is a raised bed. Do not walk on the bed and add compost and mulch. Leave walkways in between each bed. Lay something down to keep the walkways from getting muddy. You can have many, many good vegetables, herbs or flowers by using raised beds. Try it! Written by Yvonne Quarles Title: How to build a raised bed garden Description: Raised bed gardens are easy to maintain, look great and can be very efficient. Here's how to build your own. >From: vfisher2003@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 11:20:08 -0700 (MST) > >I want to plant a small garden in my backyard, at my son's request. >However, I have a small backyard and a dog who is very nosy (he'd be >traipsing through the garden). I read in the newspaper section (The Good >Life)a while back (maybe this past spring) about what you would call a box >garden. If I remember right, it stands about 3 ft or so off the ground, >about 6-8 ft long and about 18 inches deep. Do you have any information >about this type of thing or some information on how to build one of these >things. I've tried the newspaper a few times, but > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From ScottMac320@aol.com Thu Sep 13 02:38:57 2001 From: ScottMac320@aol.com (ScottMac320@aol.com) Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2001 19:38:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109130238.f8D2cvH28205@Ag.arizona.edu> Hello,I need help with my praire dog problem.I've tried plants,gum,smoke bombs,and the sound wave unit.They are eating up my bermuda grass.What should I do? From M.Premseler@juno.com Thu Sep 13 12:15:22 2001 From: M.Premseler@juno.com (M.Premseler@juno.com) Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 05:15:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109131215.f8DCFMH22369@Ag.arizona.edu> How much and often should a Justicia leonardi receive water? Our plant has been in the ground for over a year. It stands about two feet tall. From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Sep 13 14:16:52 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 07:16:52 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lemon Problems References: <200108281352.f7SDqUQ04484@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BA0BFD4.19529EF8@qwest.net> Our citrus specialist has suggested that some pictures of the leaves and fruit. Any chance of doing that? Linda Guy, MG jlldyoung1@home.com wrote: > Our lemon tree this year is having a problem: Some of thelemons are staying small and turning yellow and falling off the tree. Others are developing scars that look somewhat like Minnesota on a map and then turn black. Also, the shoots or suckers that develop on the tree have prickly leaves rather than the regular limb type shoots. I've been watering every two weeks the same as the Orange trees which are healthy and doing very well. > > I don't believe we can save this years crop but I don't want to lose the tree. > > Any suggestions? > > Thank you. > > Larry Young > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Sep 13 14:36:02 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 07:36:02 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Broussonetia papyrifera - Paper Mulberry References: <200109050249.f852nGg29103@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BA0C452.9A7D2D22@qwest.net> --------------3FF5BF4D5E80F038DB4F3764 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I'm sorry, but the only information I can dig up is how to make paper from the bark, which evidently is done alot in Asia. Does it count to say, 'that's the way God made it'.....? Linda Guy, MG angelics_20@hotmail.com wrote: > Hello, > I was wondering whether you could tell me why the Paper Mulberry Tree's bark is so thin? Is it a requirement that he plant needs in order to survive? Your help would be appreciated > Thank-you > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener --------------3FF5BF4D5E80F038DB4F3764 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I'm sorry, but the only information I can dig up is how to make paper from the bark, which evidently is done alot in Asia. Does it count to say, 'that's the way God made it'.....?

Linda Guy, MG

angelics_20@hotmail.com wrote:

Hello,
I was wondering whether you could tell me why the Paper Mulberry Tree's bark is so thin? Is it a requirement that he plant needs in order to survive? Your help would be appreciated
Thank-you

_______________________________________________
Arid_gardener mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener

--------------3FF5BF4D5E80F038DB4F3764-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Sep 13 14:50:38 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 07:50:38 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning Red Bird; Transplanting Natal Plum References: <200109091631.f89GV9g08196@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BA0C7BE.8F2F3141@qwest.net> I'm not sure that the tv program was incorrect, but I've always heard and have just reread in Johnson's Guide to Pruning, that the most significant pruning is done in the winter, when the plant is dormant. At that time the plant is cut to 6-12" from the ground to provide complete renewal of growth in the spring. The book also recommends some midsummer trimming to control 'exuberant growth'. Other MG's thoughts on the subject are at http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-October/005604.html http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2001-July/008368.html http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/arid_gardener/1012.html I've no specific knowledge of transplanting natal plum, but my gut instinct [and what I am planning to do with some other plants] is to wait until October when the heat is waning. Particularly since our climate zone is not one that is generally recommended for the plant [although yes, I realize that many are able to grow it in situations that appeal to the plant's needs]. By the way, amending the soil by tossing compost in the hole is not a recommended practice. It discourages roots from spreading into native soil. Better is to till in the amendments in an area 3-5x the size of the root ball. Then dig the hole. http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/planting.html Linda Guy, MG rjezeski@aol.com wrote: > I heard over tv the other day that we should be trimming back by 20-30% the red bird of paradise for better blooming thru out the next couple months. Is this true and if it is I have a bush about 6 ft tall how much should I trim off the top. > I also would like to know when is it a good time to transplant natel plum flowers. I have dug some holes about 2 ft in diameter and about 1 ft deep and put some potting soil and organic compost in the hole bit not transplanted the flower yet > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From casalzer1@cs.com Thu Sep 13 14:50:35 2001 From: casalzer1@cs.com (casalzer1@cs.com) Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 07:50:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109131450.f8DEoZH05756@Ag.arizona.edu> I just installed a water softening system and the company advised me that if I replace the salt with potassium, I can use this water on my plants. Is this true? From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Sep 13 14:52:51 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 07:52:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] 'Exploding' Pomegranates References: <200109110039.f8B0daH17839@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BA0C843.82AD7231@qwest.net> We would be better able to serve you if you supplied information on your cultural practices. Pomegranates tolerate great heat as well as our alkaline soil. Perhaps you have an erratic watering schedule? Linda Guy, MG rdmckiney3@home.com wrote: > My pomegranate tree has lots of fruit, but they explode on the tree. It has done this fo > r t > > he last few years,what am I doing wrong? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Sep 13 15:02:05 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 08:02:05 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Irrigating Justicia leonardi References: <200109131215.f8DCFMH22369@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BA0CA6D.578BB541@qwest.net> Sunset Western Garden Book says that it takes full sun and needs no dry season water. I'm not sure I'm comfortable recommending that in Phoenix, even though the plant is listed for our zone. I might try deep watering once every two weeks, which most of my desert shrubs receive. What kind of water are you providing now? Linda Guy, MG M.Premseler@juno.com wrote: > How much and often should a Justicia leonardi receive water? Our plant has been in the ground for over a year. It stands about two feet tall. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Sep 13 15:14:32 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 08:14:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Picking Olives for Processing References: <200109122259.f8CMxEH24096@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BA0CD58.A0BDCF5B@qwest.net> The publication on processing olives is available from the Family Consumer Sciences department (home ec) at the Maricopa County Extension office. Ask for publication HE-196 Curing Olives (also listed under #283016) Call 602-470-8086 x 341 to order a copy. Hope this helps. Linda Guy, MG Meekf28@aol.com wrote: > When do I pick olives for processing. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Sep 13 20:13:24 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 20:13:24 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] water softener Message-ID: My understanding is that potassium is still a salt, potassium chloride rather than sodium chloride. Although plants need potassium, sodium and chlorine, the amounts are very small. The ideal solution is a water source for irrigation that does not pass through the water softener, I think. The salt in the softened water will damage many plants. You would need to install an irrigation line before the water softener. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: casalzer1@cs.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 07:50:35 -0700 (MST) > >I just installed a water softening system and the company advised me that >if I replace the salt with potassium, I can use this water on my plants. Is >this true? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From coyotecove@tds.net Thu Sep 13 21:33:45 2001 From: coyotecove@tds.net (coyotecove@tds.net) Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 14:33:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109132133.f8DLXjH27514@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like to know when to pick dates from a date palm. When are they ripe, what to look for. Thanks From wbwaltb@aol.com Fri Sep 14 00:20:34 2001 From: wbwaltb@aol.com (wbwaltb@aol.com) Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 17:20:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109140020.f8E0KYH28651@Ag.arizona.edu> what is the best furtilizer to use for queen palms when to use it and how to water them mine are turning yellow and look like they are dieing From pcaruso@ix.netcom.com Fri Sep 14 04:07:22 2001 From: pcaruso@ix.netcom.com (pcaruso@ix.netcom.com) Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 21:07:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109140407.f8E47MH28252@Ag.arizona.edu> 1. I would like to plant some FAST GROWING vines (preferably flowering) next to patio posts. They face west and are in a grassy area that has a sprinkler system. 2. I also need help with low maintenance flowering shrubs that will get some sun in the early evening only. They will have a watering system provided. 3. When and what should we use to fertilize bougenvilla that has been planted for about 6 months? 4. I hope to plant sweat peas from seed this year. Is this the correct time? Any special instructions? Thank you for you help and your time. Sincerely, PJ From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri Sep 14 06:49:33 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2001 23:49:33 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Vines, Shrubs, Bouganvilla. Sweet Peas References: <200109140407.f8E47MH28252@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000301c13ce9$6fdebf40$5052530c@j0r9501> ----- Original Message ----- From: > 1. I would like to plant some FAST GROWING vines (preferably flowering) next to patio posts. They face west and are in a grassy area that has a sprinkler system. Cat claw will take full sun but it is pretty aggressive and you would have to control it. Queen's wreath could also be used but it is winter deciduous. There are also various deciduous trumpet vines that would work. > 2. I also need help with low maintenance flowering shrubs that will get some sun in the early evening only. They will have a watering system provided. Not many shrubs will bloom in the shade. You might get a few blooms from a natal plum which is pretty low maintenance but is frost tender such that the foliage may freeze but the plant recovers okay. Suggest visiting one of the xeriscape demonstration gardens listed at http://www.amwua.org/xscp-demogardens.htm to see for yourself what you would like. You probably should do this now because you will want to plant in October. > 3. When and what should we use to fertilize bougainvillea that has been planted for about 6 months? Bougainville does okay without fertilizer. > 4. I hope to plant sweat peas from seed this year. Is this the correct time? Any special instructions? It is still a bit early for both sweet pears and garden peas. The low desert planting guide at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1100.pdf suggests October 1 through January. We always plant on or about October 4 (St. Francis Day - easy to remember). Sweet Peas reseed readily but we always plant a few more seeds to fill in and add color. Olin From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Fri Sep 14 11:39:12 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 04:39:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Quen Palm References: <200109140020.f8E0KYH28651@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <002001c13d11$e249a4a0$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> The yellowing and dying off of the lower leaves is normal. As the palm grows, their natural cycle is to move the nutrients from their bottom leaves to the new growth. It is not a good idea to remove these bottom leaves until they have turned brown. Severe pruning stimulates an unhealthy response in palms. Energy is burned, to quickly produce new leaves to replace those lost. Instead of storing food, palms that are severely pruned annually begin depleting their reserves of energy. If this happens on a continual basis, the palm's trunk gradually decreases in diameter and becomes weak and the weakened trunk will break in a storm. Palms do need to be fertilized. You will be able to find a fertilizer that is specifically for palms. This fertilizer contains the micro-nutrients that are needed by palms. If all of the fronds are turning yellow, the most likely cause is incorrect watering Use this link to view our publication "Arizona Landscape Palms". http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf This publication contains detailed information on the care of palms. Scott Rogers MG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2001 5:20 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > what is the best furtilizer to use for queen palms when to use it and how to water them mine are turning yellow and look like they are dieing > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From info@classichits.com Fri Sep 14 12:38:39 2001 From: info@classichits.com (info@classichits.com) Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 05:38:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109141238.f8ECcdH12574@Ag.arizona.edu> Is anyone is good at identifying what Tree these seed pods go to? I need to know what the tree name is, and if you know of uses for the seeds. Seed pods are light, almost white in color, and are hard. They contain a hard red seed- almost coffee bean looking. Here are the pics: http://www.classichits.com/seeds/seeds1.jpg http://www.classichits.com/seeds/seeds2.jpg http://www.classichits.com/seeds/seeds3.jpg Thank you in advance. Please reply by email. From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Sep 14 14:19:32 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 07:19:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Picking Dates References: <200109132133.f8DLXjH27514@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BA211F4.E2D87510@qwest.net> Although this publication is not available online from our website yet, a server member published it in response to a similar question. Good luck! http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-August/005179.html You can get more information on dates by running another search in the archives, as I did. Linda Guy, MG coyotecove@tds.net wrote: > I would like to know when to pick dates from a date palm. When are they ripe, what to look for. Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Fri Sep 14 14:37:45 2001 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 07:37:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200109141238.f8ECcdH12574@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BA21638.4E9B1E3D@email.sps.mot.com> It looks like Texas Mountain Laurel (Sophora secundiflora) to me. Seeds are very poisenous, so be careful. Check out the following link for pictures and info: http://uts.cc.utexas.edu/~harms/MtLaurel.html ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.gizmoaz.com Over 181 Rose Bushes Planted! Over 109 different varieties! Never a dull moment!! info@classichits.com wrote: > Is anyone is good at identifying what Tree these seed pods go to? > > I need to know what the tree name is, and if you know of uses for the seeds. > > Seed pods are light, almost white in color, and are hard. They contain a hard red seed- almost coffee bean looking. > > Here are the pics: > > http://www.classichits.com/seeds/seeds1.jpg > > http://www.classichits.com/seeds/seeds2.jpg > > http://www.classichits.com/seeds/seeds3.jpg > > Thank you in advance. Please reply by email. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Sep 14 14:36:50 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 07:36:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mulberry Legal Status References: <200109071448.f87EmTg09820@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BA21602.478CFC9A@qwest.net> Here is a link to the relevant city article, which is fairly self-explanatory. http://www.ci.phoenix.az.us/NBHDPGMS/nghart2.html#ARTICLE9 Linda Guy, MG jesmather@aol.com wrote: > I have found a mulberry tree starting to grow in my yard, but someone told me they are illegal to plant in the Phoenix metro area. Is this true? Should I just get rid of it or can I preserve it? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Sep 14 14:38:27 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 07:38:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Picking Dates References: <200109121651.f8CGpTH07687@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BA21663.D539B891@qwest.net> Although this publication is not available online from our website yet, a server member published it in response to a similar question. Good luck! http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-August/005179.html You can get more information on dates by running another search in the archives, as I did. The archives are on the same page where you originally posted the question. Linda Guy, MG billbu@netbeam.net wrote: > I have a date palm that is just loaded with > dates. Usually they dry up and fall. What > can I do to harvest them? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Sep 14 14:46:01 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 07:46:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plant ID - Sophora secundiflora References: <200109141238.f8ECcdH12574@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BA21829.335DBC3C@qwest.net> Texas Mountain Laurel was my first thought, too, because of the orange/red seed. Here's another photo of the bean pod which contains several seeds, but doesn't look precisely like your photo. Perhaps you separated the individual seeds before snapping your picture? Hope this helps. http://www.elandscape.com/lvl/lvl.html?pid=sopsec&d=1&p=1 As Alan mentioned, if this is your plant, the seeds are indeed poisonous. Linda Guy, MG info@classichits.com wrote: > Is anyone is good at identifying what Tree these seed pods go to? > > I need to know what the tree name is, and if you know of uses for the seeds. > > Seed pods are light, almost white in color, and are hard. They contain a hard red seed- almost coffee bean looking. > > Here are the pics: > > http://www.classichits.com/seeds/seeds1.jpg > > http://www.classichits.com/seeds/seeds2.jpg > > http://www.classichits.com/seeds/seeds3.jpg > > Thank you in advance. Please reply by email. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From elewis@Ag.arizona.edu Fri Sep 14 15:05:35 2001 From: elewis@Ag.arizona.edu (Betsy) Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 08:05:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plant ID - Sophora secundiflora In-Reply-To: <3BA21829.335DBC3C@qwest.net> Message-ID: didn't look at the photo but Erythrina flabelliformis (coral bean), has seed similar to your description. Betsy Lewis From emetootsie@qwest.net Fri Sep 14 15:22:19 2001 From: emetootsie@qwest.net (emetootsie@qwest.net) Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 08:22:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109141522.f8EFMJH29572@Ag.arizona.edu> Could you please send me a website on Gardenias? I would like to know how to care for them . Thank you EME From elewis@Ag.arizona.edu Fri Sep 14 15:25:41 2001 From: elewis@Ag.arizona.edu (Betsy) Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 08:25:41 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plant ID - Sophora secundiflora (fwd) Message-ID: ---------- Forwarded message ---------- Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 08:05:35 -0700 (MST) From: Betsy To: Linda Guy Cc: info@classichits.com, Arid_gardener Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Plant ID - Sophora secundiflora didn't look at the photo but Erythrina flabelliformis (coral bean), has seed similar to your description. Betsy Lewis From beej17@earthlink.net Sat Sep 15 03:39:38 2001 From: beej17@earthlink.net (beej17@earthlink.net) Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 20:39:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109150339.f8F3dcH28265@Ag.arizona.edu> I have had a fish hook barrel cactus in my yard for 20 years.It did not bloom last year and it looks like it isn't going to bloom this year either, although it has some buds. What could be the problem? From beej17@earthlink.net Sat Sep 15 03:40:37 2001 From: beej17@earthlink.net (beej17@earthlink.net) Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 20:40:37 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109150340.f8F3ebH28335@Ag.arizona.edu> I have had a fish hook barrel cactus in my yard for 20 years.It did not bloom last year and it looks like it isn't going to bloom this year either, although it has some buds. What could be the problem? From drgarnett@msn.com Sat Sep 15 05:47:58 2001 From: drgarnett@msn.com (Donald Garnett) Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2001 22:47:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] California fuchsia (Zauschneria or Epilobia) Message-ID: ------=_NextPart_001_0001_01C13D6F.4D2ACF80 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Does anyone have experience with Zauschneria californica? We planted some on an embankment covered in river rock this spring, =20 and they just took to it like a fish to water. Grew to some 2 1/2 ft. tal= l, and right now still produces bunches of flowers. The hummingbirds really go for it. There isn't really anything wrong with them, although they're starting to= look a little rangy and ragged - the lower leaves have turned brown, although = the =20 rest of the plant is green and healthy. My Sunset Western Garden book ind= icates that this is to be expected, but the only hint they give to care is that = "they =20 never will become completely domesticated". =20 My question is whether we should consider pruning them back a bit when they stop flowering to encourage new growth, or is this a plant that is better left to its own devices? Can we expect the plants to =20 become completely unruly? Don Garnett ------=_NextPart_001_0001_01C13D6F.4D2ACF80 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Does anyone ha= ve experience with Zauschneria californica?
 
= We planted some on an embankment covered in river rock this spring,
and they just took to it like a fish to water. Grew to some 2= 1/2 ft. tall,
and right now still produces bunches of flowers= . The hummingbirds
really go for it.
 
<= DIV>There isn't really anything wrong with them, although they're st= arting to look
a little rangy and ragged - the lower leaves ha= ve turned brown, although the
rest of the plant is green and = healthy. My Sunset Western Garden book indicates
that this is = to be expected, but the only hint they give to care is that "they
=
never will become completely domesticated".
 
=
My question is whether we should consider pruning them back a bit
when they stop flowering to encourage new growth, or is th= is a plant
that is better left to its own devices? Can we expe= ct the plants to
become completely unruly?
 <= /DIV>
    Don Garnett
 
<= /HTML> ------=_NextPart_001_0001_01C13D6F.4D2ACF80-- From doneal1007@aol.com Sat Sep 15 14:28:09 2001 From: doneal1007@aol.com (doneal1007@aol.com) Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 07:28:09 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109151428.f8FES9H13618@Ag.arizona.edu> Sirs: A few days ago I purchased 3 citrus trees from a local Glendale nursery. Before buying I noticed that the leaves were pretty well "curled". The attendant said that it was Thrips, and spraying with Melathyon would correct the problem. After getting them home, and reading about "Thrips", I can find no evidense of bug infestation. I've closely looked at the undersides of the leaves and there are no insects or droppings,or any thing that suggest that there ever was. Hopefully you will be able to help me, and thank you. Darrell O'Neal From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Sat Sep 15 15:34:21 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 08:34:21 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus Thrips References: <200109151428.f8FES9H13618@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000701c13dfb$e53c3b60$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> Thrips cause damage to new growth leaves, and fruit scaring. By the time you see the signs, they have already left. They are extremely hard to control. We recommend that you do nothing as the damage they caused is only cosmetic and do not lessen the quality of the fruit. We have several publications that deal with the management of citrus. One (AZ1151) is available on line at this link. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Citrus The other publication (MC91) deals with fertilization of citrus and is available from any of the extension offices. Recent studies at the Citrus Research Station in Waddell have shown that citrus trees do not benefit from fertilization for the first two years after planting. Plans are being developed for our annual Citrus Clinics which are held shortly after the first of the year. I highly recommend these clinics as the presentations are made by persons who are leaders in their fields. Information about the locations and times of the clinics will be available from any of our extension offices later this Fall. Scott Rogers Master Gardener ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2001 7:28 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Sirs: A few days ago I purchased 3 citrus trees from a local Glendale nursery. Before buying I noticed that the leaves were pretty well "curled". The attendant said that it was Thrips, and spraying with Melathyon would correct the problem. After getting them home, and reading about "Thrips", I can find no evidense of bug infestation. I've closely looked at the undersides of the leaves and there are no insects or droppings,or any thing that suggest that there ever was. Hopefully you will be able to help me, and thank you. Darrell O'Neal > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From aduick@aol.com Sat Sep 15 21:46:45 2001 From: aduick@aol.com (aduick@aol.com) Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 14:46:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109152146.f8FLkjH16689@Ag.arizona.edu> Information on planting italian plum trees, upbringing, maintenance, time to fruit bearing, etc. in the desert - Scottsdale, AZ From kirdaneen@Hotmail.com Sat Sep 15 23:09:28 2001 From: kirdaneen@Hotmail.com (kirdaneen@Hotmail.com) Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 16:09:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109152309.f8FN9SH22817@Ag.arizona.edu> I'm new here. Can I grow tomatoes? From djhillis@qwest.net Sun Sep 16 00:24:34 2001 From: djhillis@qwest.net (djhillis@qwest.net) Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 17:24:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109160024.f8G0OYH28146@Ag.arizona.edu> I first want to thank you for the info on how to attract lizards. I put together a rock garden and I've seen 2 small lizards there already. My question is about an ash tree, fan tex I think. On the trunk where the branches start to spread out, there is a wet, sticky area about 5 to 6 inches long. 3 or 4 wasps love it, but there seems to be a small crack there, also. The tree is 4 years old. Is something wrong or not. Thanks again. Dennis From M.Premseler@juno.com Sun Sep 16 00:48:08 2001 From: M.Premseler@juno.com (M.Premseler@juno.com) Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 17:48:08 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109160048.f8G0m8H29512@Ag.arizona.edu> Can a Yucca Gloriosa be transplanted? If so, what time of year is best? From itctkdmom@lvcm.com Sun Sep 16 01:46:23 2001 From: itctkdmom@lvcm.com (Itctkdmom) Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 18:46:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] apple trees Message-ID: <000801c13e51$648cb2a0$ce157818@lvcablemodem.com> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C13E16.B7F3DEE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable looking for planting advise. I plan to put in a gala apple tree, a lime = and a nectarine tree, in my back yard. I live in north las vegas. The = advise I have had so far says no problem but the gala tree may be more = sussessful with a polinator. what would a polinator be? another kind of = apple tree? would a fuji apple tree work? would these trees work well = in vegas? Which nectarine tree grows best here. which tastes sweeter? = are dwarf limes really small? is there a web site with all this = information on it? thankyou Sue ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C13E16.B7F3DEE0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
looking for planting advise.  I = plan to put in=20 a gala apple tree, a lime and a nectarine tree, in my back yard. I live = in=20 north las vegas.  The advise I have had so far says no problem = but the=20 gala tree may be more sussessful with a polinator.  what would a = polinator=20 be? another kind of apple tree?  would a fuji apple tree = work?  would=20 these trees work well in vegas?  Which nectarine tree grows best = here.=20 which tastes sweeter? are dwarf limes really small?  is there a web = site=20 with all this information on it?
thankyou
Sue
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C13E16.B7F3DEE0-- From umiller@azdps.com Sun Sep 16 12:12:47 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2001 05:12:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus Leaf Curl In-Reply-To: <200109151428.f8FES9H13618@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Some of the leaves on my grapefruit tree curl, too. I assumed that thrips were the cause; but I haven't checked it out to see if that's what the problem really is. I just hose down the tree with powerful force of water and it seems to get it under control for a while. I don't use any chemicals. It could also be a matter of water stress. If you go this this site: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/ and type in citrus leaves curling and then click on search, you'll see previous discussions on this subject. Try typing in variations of the subject like citrus leaf curl and you will get even more discussions And you can go to this site http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-April/003965.html which already has a response on the subject by Linda Guy and lists a number of web places to check for information on maintaining your new trees. Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of doneal1007@aol.com Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2001 7:28 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Sirs: A few days ago I purchased 3 citrus trees from a local Glendale nursery. Before buying I noticed that the leaves were pretty well "curled". The attendant said that it was Thrips, and spraying with Melathyon would correct the problem. After getting them home, and reading about "Thrips", I can find no evidense of bug infestation. I've closely looked at the undersides of the leaves and there are no insects or droppings,or any thing that suggest that there ever was. Hopefully you will be able to help me, and thank you. Darrell O'Neal _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From jonnarl@aol.com Sun Sep 16 18:06:17 2001 From: jonnarl@aol.com (jonnarl@aol.com) Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2001 11:06:17 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109161806.f8GI6HH10941@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like to replace some tired old Oleander bushes with some new flowering shrubs that will grow to about 4 feet tall. They will receive plenty of sun and will be used as border shrubs. Any suggestions? Thanks. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Sep 16 21:29:44 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2001 17:29:44 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ash Tree weeping Message-ID: --part1_a4.19c3b299.28d673c8_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dennis, Stress often will cause a tree to weep, and one of the most frequent causes of stress is improper irrigation. Check out this site for info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_a4.19c3b299.28d673c8_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dennis,
Stress often will cause a tree to weep, and one of the most frequent causes of stress is improper irrigation. Check out this site for info on irrigation:   http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_a4.19c3b299.28d673c8_boundary-- From umiller@azdps.com Sun Sep 16 23:28:03 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2001 16:28:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Flowering Shrub In-Reply-To: <200109161806.f8GI6HH10941@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Cape honeysuckle might be a option. They love the sun and have orange flowers. You can keep them 4' tall by trimming them occasionally. Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardner -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of jonnarl@aol.com Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2001 11:06 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I would like to replace some tired old Oleander bushes with some new flowering shrubs that will grow to about 4 feet tall. They will receive plenty of sun and will be used as border shrubs. Any suggestions? Thanks. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From serawls@juno.com Sun Sep 16 23:46:58 2001 From: serawls@juno.com (serawls@juno.com) Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2001 16:46:58 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109162346.f8GNkwH10295@Ag.arizona.edu> From serawls@juno.com Sun Sep 16 23:47:44 2001 From: serawls@juno.com (serawls@juno.com) Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2001 16:47:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109162347.f8GNliH10402@Ag.arizona.edu> Is it cool enough to plant roses now (Sept. 15)? From jmontgomery@qwest.net Mon Sep 17 02:49:53 2001 From: jmontgomery@qwest.net (jmontgomery@qwest.net) Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2001 19:49:53 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109170249.f8H2nrH03851@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a Valencia orange tree where several small branches have brown sections with crystallized "stuff" on them. The section beyond the brown area, which is about 2/3 of the thickness of the branch in that little area, is still green. What is the problem (a borer?) and should I cut off these branches? I have not noticed this problem on the other citrus trees. HELP. Thanks From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Sep 17 15:27:59 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 15:27:59 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus, brown sections on branches Message-ID: Is it possible the brown sections are more exposed to the sun? The oozing could be the result of sun burn. Are the brown patches toward the outside of the tree and on the upper surfaces of the branches? Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: jmontgomery@qwest.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2001 19:49:53 -0700 (MST) > >I have a Valencia orange tree where several small branches have brown >sections with crystallized "stuff" on them. The section beyond the brown >area, which is about 2/3 of the thickness of the branch in that little >area, is still green. What is the problem (a borer?) and should I cut off >these branches? > >I have not noticed this problem on the other citrus trees. > >HELP. Thanks > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Sep 17 15:53:49 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 15:53:49 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] apple trees Message-ID: Sue, Check with your County Cooperative Extension Office (phone number should be under county government in the phone book) for information about your area. They will have better information than we can provide from southern Arizona. Las Vegas is in Sunset Climate Zone 11. Apples that Sunset lists for zone 11 are: Arkansas Black, Golden Delicious, Granny Smith, Lodi, Newtown Pippin, Pristine, Rome Beauty, and Stayman. Crabapples should grow, too. Sunset doesn't recommend limes for your area unless you can bring them indoors or protect from frost. Many peaches and nectarines are listed as suitable for Sunset Zone 11. Check the Sunset Western Garden Book for detailed information. Southern Belle and Mericrest look like possible choices for nectarines. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Itctkdmom" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] apple trees >Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 18:46:23 -0700 > >looking for planting advise. I plan to put in a gala apple tree, a lime >and a nectarine tree, in my back yard. I live in north las vegas. The >advise I have had so far says no problem but the gala tree may be more >sussessful with a polinator. what would a polinator be? another kind of >apple tree? would a fuji apple tree work? would these trees work well in >vegas? Which nectarine tree grows best here. which tastes sweeter? are >dwarf limes really small? is there a web site with all this information on >it? >thankyou >Sue _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Sep 17 16:09:59 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 16:09:59 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Yucca gloriosa Message-ID: I do not have hands-on experience. Mary Irish's excellent book, "Agaves, Yuccas, and Related Plants", says propagation is by seed, be removal of offsets or by stem cuttings but doesn't specifically mention transplanting. George Brookbank's "Desert Landscaping" has a chapter on transplanting cacti and other desert succulents. He prefers June, July, August for transplanting. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: M.Premseler@juno.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 17:48:08 -0700 (MST) > >Can a Yucca Gloriosa be transplanted? If so, what time of year is best? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailma _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Sep 17 16:23:47 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 16:23:47 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tomatoes Message-ID: Yes, you can grow tomatoes in southern Arizona, but this isn't an ideal climate for them because of our hot summers. Carefully select varieties that perform well here, set out transplants in mid-February to early March and expect most production to be completed by mid-June. REad the "tomato" section in the Sunset Western GArden Book. If you are in Pima County, call 626-5161 and we can send you additional information. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: kirdaneen@hotmail.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 16:09:28 -0700 (MST) > >I'm new here. Can I grow tomatoes? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Sep 17 16:32:05 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 16:32:05 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plum trees Message-ID: My understanding is that the European plum trees need a moderately high chill that would exclude them from our mild-winter climates in southern Arizona. DAmson plums are listed for Sunset Zone 13 (thw Phoenix area). Green Gage might also grow. (I am in Tucson, so I'm sure others from the Phoenizx area will give you more specific information). Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: aduick@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2001 14:46:45 -0700 (MST) > >Information on planting italian plum trees, upbringing, maintenance, time >to fruit bearing, etc. in the desert - Scottsdale, AZ > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From nanlue@juno.com Mon Sep 17 20:52:00 2001 From: nanlue@juno.com (nanlue@juno.com) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 13:52:00 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109172052.f8HKq0V20203@Ag.arizona.edu> What is the cause of brown spots & areas in a lawn? What is the proper treatment? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Sep 17 21:29:31 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 17:29:31 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rose Planting Time Message-ID: --part1_a6.19d093f5.28d7c53b_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Here in the low desert potted roses can be planted now, however I would recommend waiting another month until the temps are cooler. For bare root roses January is the time to plant. Following is an article that I wrote for the Republic last year on planting roses. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian December and January is an exciting time of year for rose lovers, second only to the spring and fall blooming time. The nurseries will be receiving their new stock of roses in mid December, and we rosarians all look forward with anticipation the new rose varieties. For the best selection of varieties don't delay. If you wait until late January you may have trouble finding that favorite rose. You have three options as to where to buy roses: 1. Nurseries, 2. Mail order, 3. Discounters. There is also the option of buying either bare root or potted. My preference is to buy bare root from a nursery that stores the roses in a sawdust bin. The roots of roses stored in a sawdust bin can be examined, and if you don't like the appearance of the roots you don't have to buy. With a packaged rose you don't have that option. After the middle of February my preference is to buy potted roses because they have already started the rooting process, and the chances of survival are much better. If you are unable to find the variety wanted locally, then your only option is mail order.If the mail order option is used, again be sure and order early, not only for the best selection, but you won't want bare root roses shipped to the Phoenix area in March. It's time to plant.Dig the hole a month before you plant if possible, replace the soil with amendments and soak well. Do not put fertilizer in the planting hole at this time. Most rose books recommend a planting hole of at least 18 x 18 inches. My recommendation is to make the planting hole 30 x 30 inches, and especially if the soil is dense clay as is found in most of Maricopa county. If you have much caliche your options are to either dig out the caliche or to build raised beds. It's now planting time. Soak the bare root roses over night in water;dig out some of the planting mix, form a cone,spread the rose roots on the cone with the bud graft 2 inches above grade, backfill and water in well. To keep the canes from drying out mound up either the planting mix or mulch around the canes. January is the time to prune roses for those of you who already have them in your garden. Basically cut your hybred teas, florabundas, and minatures back from 1/3 to 1/2 depending on the size; cut out the dead wood, and strip off all the leaves and clean up around the bush. It is always helpful to attend one of the pruning demonstrations held in public rose gardens by most of the rose societies in the valley. Watch the Saturday newspapers home section for time and place. Have problems with roses or have questions to be answered, call the Master Gardner hot line or talk to one of the many Master Gardner Consulting Rosarians. Rod McKusick, Master Gardner and Consulting Rosarian --part1_a6.19d093f5.28d7c53b_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Here in the low desert potted roses can be planted now, however I would recommend waiting another month until the temps are cooler. For bare root roses January is the time to plant. Following is an article that I wrote for the Republic last year on planting roses.

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian

December and January is an exciting time of year for rose lovers, second only to the spring and fall  blooming time.
The nurseries will be receiving their new stock of roses in mid December, and we rosarians all look forward with anticipation the new rose varieties. For the best selection of varieties don't delay. If you wait until late January you may have trouble finding that favorite rose.
You have three options as to where to buy roses: 1. Nurseries, 2. Mail order, 3. Discounters. There is also the option of buying either bare root or potted. My preference is to buy bare root from a nursery that stores the roses in a sawdust bin. The roots of roses stored in a sawdust bin can be examined, and if you don't like the appearance of the roots you don't have to buy. With a packaged rose you don't have that option. After the middle of February my preference is to buy potted roses because they have already started the rooting process, and the chances of survival are much better.
If you are unable to find the variety wanted locally, then your only option is mail order.If the mail order option is used, again be sure and order early, not only for the best selection, but you won't want bare root roses shipped to the Phoenix area in March.
It's time to plant.Dig the hole a month before  you plant if possible, replace the soil with amendments and soak well. Do not put fertilizer in the planting hole at this time.   Most rose books recommend a planting hole of at least 18 x 18 inches. My recommendation is to make the planting hole 30 x 30 inches, and especially if the soil is dense clay as is found in most of Maricopa county. If you have much caliche your options are to either dig out the caliche or to build raised beds.
It's now planting time. Soak the bare root roses over night in water;dig out some of the planting mix, form a cone,spread the rose roots on the cone with the bud graft 2 inches above grade, backfill and water in well. To keep the canes from drying out mound up either the planting mix or mulch around the canes.
January is the time to prune roses for those of you who already have  them in your garden. Basically cut your hybred teas, florabundas, and minatures back from 1/3 to 1/2  depending on the size; cut out the dead wood, and strip off all the leaves and clean up around the bush. It is always helpful to attend one of the pruning demonstrations held in public rose gardens by most of the rose societies in the valley. Watch the Saturday newspapers home section for time and place.
Have problems with roses or have questions to be answered, call the Master Gardner hot line or talk to one of the many Master Gardner Consulting Rosarians.
Rod McKusick, Master Gardner and Consulting Rosarian --part1_a6.19d093f5.28d7c53b_boundary-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Sep 17 21:38:08 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 21:38:08 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] lawn, brown patches Message-ID: THere could be a number of causes for the brown spots you see in the lawn. Water is the most usual problem. See the following article for more information: http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening/news/azdailystar/summer_lawn_problems.html Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: nanlue@juno.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 13:52:00 -0700 (MST) > >What is the cause of brown spots & areas in a lawn? What is the proper >treatment? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From tburrphx@aol.com Mon Sep 17 22:23:56 2001 From: tburrphx@aol.com (tburrphx@aol.com) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 15:23:56 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109172223.f8HMNuV09464@Ag.arizona.edu> We have a bed behind our pool that we've planted with ice-plant groundcover ("hearts & flower"). Over the past few years it does really well in the spring and early summer -- then very quickly dies -- looks like it's burned or something in various areas. Certain plants seem OK, but huge areas are dry and dead. We've tried all kinds of sprinklers to assure that it's getting enough water -- but now it's dead again. Could it be burning? Or perhaps too much water that's causing some kind of fungus? HELP !!!! Many thanks! From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Sep 17 22:41:35 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 18:41:35 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf with brown patches Message-ID: <93.1058eae5.28d7d61f@aol.com> --part1_93.1058eae5.28d7d61f_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Brown patches in turf can be caused by several things: An irrigation system that does not water uniformly. An insect called Pearl scale. A fungus called Brown Patch caused by the fungi Rhizoctonia solani. Mowing more than 1/3 of the total height at one time. White grubs plus other insects. An excellent bulletin titled Turf Diseases is available for $1.00 from Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_93.1058eae5.28d7d61f_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Brown patches in turf can be caused by several things:

An irrigation system that does not water uniformly.

An insect called Pearl scale.

A fungus called Brown Patch caused by the fungi Rhizoctonia solani.

Mowing more than 1/3 of the total height at one time.

White grubs plus other insects.

An excellent bulletin titled Turf Diseases is available for $1.00 from  Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener



--part1_93.1058eae5.28d7d61f_boundary-- From dbrennan@firstam.com Mon Sep 17 23:47:48 2001 From: dbrennan@firstam.com (dbrennan@firstam.com) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 16:47:48 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109172347.f8HNlmV24719@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like to plan an English style garden in my backyard. Are there 'desert style' plants than I can use? I would like a white daisy which blooms in the summer. The exposure is south - sun all day. Please help. From jccraven@qwest.net Tue Sep 18 02:47:39 2001 From: jccraven@qwest.net (jccraven@qwest.net) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 19:47:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109180247.f8I2ldV17422@Ag.arizona.edu> when do i trim, seriously trim, my bouganvilia(sp)? They are 6 years old and I have never trimmed then at the right time or correctly. Grapefruit tree = same question. I trimmed it las year and cut all of the blooms off, had four grapefruit left. Thanks From misssassygirl@juno.com Tue Sep 18 04:09:18 2001 From: misssassygirl@juno.com (misssassygirl@juno.com) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 21:09:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109180409.f8I49IV28384@Ag.arizona.edu> I deep water my citrus trees every 10 days this summer. Their leaves are now turning half yellow and dry and have white spots within that area also. What could the problem be? Is there something I should be adding for them this time of year? Thanks for your help. From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Tue Sep 18 12:22:01 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 05:22:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus leaves yellowing References: <200109180409.f8I49IV28384@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000901c1403c$8566b240$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> Your watering practices are fine. I am assuming that the leaves on the south side of the tree are affected the most. If this is so, they are suffering from sunburn. It is caused by the leaves aspirating water faster than it can be replaced by the tree. I have the same problem with my trees and it is much more pronounced this year than last, There is nothing that you can do to prevent this from happening. While it does stress the trees, it is not fatal. Scott Rogers MG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, September 17, 2001 9:09 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I deep water my citrus trees every 10 days this summer. Their leaves are now turning half yellow and dry and have white spots within that area also. What could the problem be? Is there something I should be adding for them this time of year? Thanks for your help. From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Tue Sep 18 13:31:56 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 06:31:56 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [Arid_gardener]Bougainvillea & Grapefruit Pruning References: <200109180247.f8I2ldV17422@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <004101c14046$4da48300$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> Bougainvillea can be pruned almost anytime except in winter. Since they are very frost tender pruning will only generate new growth, which is even more frost tender. hey can be pruned almost anytime except in winter. Pruning encourages new shoots and these are very tender and more susceptible to frost damage. Any trimming of citrus is detrimental. Fruit production is on new growth; if you remove the new growth you will have the results that you had last year. If you must prune for safety or size restrictions, prune in the very early spring when the trees are not under stress and the resulting new growth is less likely to be damaged by frost..There is an excellent brochure "Pruning Fruit Trees in Home Orchards"(MC66) you can pick this up for free at either the main office or at one of the satellite offices. If you wish to have them mailed to you, there is a charge of $1.00 each. Scott Rogers MG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, September 17, 2001 7:47 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > when do i trim, seriously trim, my bouganvilia(sp)? They are 6 years old and I have never trimmed then at the right time or correctly. > > Grapefruit tree = same question. I trimmed it las year and cut all of the blooms off, had four grapefruit left. > > Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From orders@westernsod.com Tue Sep 18 16:13:26 2001 From: orders@westernsod.com (orders@westernsod.com) Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 09:13:26 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109181613.f8IGDPV06972@Ag.arizona.edu> What trees will grass not grow under (for reasons other than shade)? From SMunger860@aol.com Tue Sep 18 17:24:49 2001 From: SMunger860@aol.com (SMunger860@aol.com) Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 10:24:49 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109181724.f8IHOnV24519@Ag.arizona.edu> I had a tree well (ring?) built around a huge, mature Allepo pine in my yard by some landscaping guys. Although I asked them not to distrub the roots, I found out they chopped through 5 or 6 big roots (3 to 5 inches in diameter) to place the blocks. How likely is this to damage my tree? Also, they piled the dirt from the trench they dig inside the tree ring. I was hoping to plant some flowers in there. However, I just read that you should not add dirt on top of established tree roots. Is it safe to add any dirt to ground level? Finally, I would like to use bricks on sand to build a patio under my other mature pine. We are on an irrigated lot. Is brick porous enough to allow the roots to get enough air and water? I need to do something in that spot because nothing will grow under there and it is a mud bog when we irrigate. The groud is also eroding away gradually. Thanks! From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Sep 18 20:49:07 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 13:49:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Dichondra in Kirkpatrick pasture References: <001101c138e6$239845e0$e647530c@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <3BA7B343.E3C2A4E5@qwest.net> The best suggestion I have at this time is to cut out a segment of it and take it to the Maricopa County Extension Office, 4341 E. Broadway Road in Phoenix. They can do a specific plant id and then suggest management options. Again, if it comes in with your irrigation water, I'm not sure this isn't a losing battle. Linda Guy, MG William Kirkpatrick wrote: > Dear Linda, > Thank you so much for putting so much effort into the dichondra problem we > are experiencing at the moment. > We live in the Maricopa County Island off Higley, just south of Guadalupe. > I have talked to many people here and most of us are experiencing a > hightened problem this year. We feel that irrigation canals are bringing it > in, but not sure as many weeds are brought in this way ( I am told by my > peers). The dichondra has spread to about a 1/3 now of our property which > is 1.25 acres. It is just as prolific in the orchard as in the bright sun. > Just today though, I noticed it is beginning to curl at the edges as we have > not irrigated for almost a month, hoping the lack of moisture would kill it. > However, it is healthier around the base of the trees where I hose-watered. > I did send an email to Monterrey Chemicals and they replied saying a product > called Spurge Power would do the job. I have yet to purchase this to test > it. > To briefly describe: small leaf about 3/4", bright green, stem greenat the > top and slightly red/brown down below.Does not have any kind of sap ooze > when broken, the smell is very slight and nondescript. We are concerned > that the grass we have which is St. Aug and Bermuder mixed with other > pasture grasses is most definitly being choked out by this. We do not have > grazing animals, just keep it irrigated to look good and mown tall. > I hope you can solve this problem, as to the identity of this culprit. > Thanks so much for brainstorming for us, and my neighbours thank you also. > PS My neighbour took some earlier in the year to the coop ext. and they > thought it could be some kind of clover, but not certain. Thats as far as he > got. > Thanks > Jennifer Kirkpatrick > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Sep 18 22:50:33 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 18:50:33 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tree roots, cutting Message-ID: --part1_f.1af6c06b.28d929b9_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Anytime that tree roots are disturbed or cut the life of the tree is endangered. If the tree was healthy before it will probably survive. Just be sure that the tree is watered adequately. Sometimes the effect of cutting the roots does not show up for months and years. Do not allow the dirt that was placed inside the well build up on the trunk of the tree. You might have to build a retaining wall around the trunk to keep the dirt away. As for your patio around the tree, again anytime there is construction around a tree the tree's health can be affected. If the patio is inside the dripline of the tree the tree probably will not be affected. The tree's feeder roots are at or beyond the dripline of the tree. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_f.1af6c06b.28d929b9_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Anytime that tree roots are disturbed or cut the life of the tree is endangered. If the tree was healthy before it will probably survive. Just be sure that the tree is watered adequately. Sometimes the effect of cutting the roots does not show up for months and years. Do not allow the dirt that was placed inside the well build up on the trunk of the tree. You might have to build a retaining wall around the trunk to keep the dirt away.

As for your patio around the tree, again anytime there is construction around a tree the tree's health can be affected. If the patio is inside the dripline of the tree the tree probably will not be affected. The tree's feeder roots are at or beyond the dripline of the tree.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener



--part1_f.1af6c06b.28d929b9_boundary-- From tim@haskinsplace.com Tue Sep 18 23:13:02 2001 From: tim@haskinsplace.com (tim@haskinsplace.com) Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 16:13:02 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109182313.f8IND2V06148@Ag.arizona.edu> I've seen dwarf oleander shrubs cut back rather agressively. Can this be done anytime of the year? From BSMITH@AOL.COM Tue Sep 18 23:42:21 2001 From: BSMITH@AOL.COM (BSMITH@AOL.COM) Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 16:42:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109182342.f8INgLV11062@Ag.arizona.edu> I HAVE A BELOVED & WELL TENDED HIBISCUS TREE, APPROX 10 YEARS SINCE PLANTING & IT WAS 10 FEET TALL & IN FULL BLOOM WHICH LASTS THRU' CHRISTMAS. IT IS OUTSIDE MY HOME ON COOMON AREA GROUND & THE COMMUNITY LANDSCAPERS HAVE PRUNED, HACKED & DECIMATED THIS FULLY BLOOMING TREE. I REGULARLY CUT IT BACK (PRUNE) IN JANUARY OF EACH NEW YEAR. PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF THEY HAVE ERRED HACKING IT BACK IN FULL LATE SUMMER BLOOM? I SPRAY FOR WHITE FLY EVERY 2 WEEKS, PLEASE HELP, THANKS - BARRY From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Wed Sep 19 00:21:12 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 17:21:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Oleander Pruning References: <200109182313.f8IND2V06148@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <02b501c140a0$ff351b20$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> Improper pruning is the downfall of the Oleander. Oleander canes coming out of the ground look terrible. Only prune the plant after is has bloomed, this will maximize the number of blooms. It is important, when pruning, not to let the top get wider than the base of the plant. If you do, the bottom will get too much shade and die out. Scott Rogers MG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 4:13 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I've seen dwarf oleander shrubs cut back rather agressively. Can this be done anytime of the year? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Sep 19 03:13:09 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 20:13:09 -0700 Subject: [Fwd: [Arid_gardener] Dichondra in Pasture] References: <3B978E5B.5114383A@qwest.net> Message-ID: <3BA80D45.5A9AA06C@qwest.net> I've sent a note to several sod places [no reply] and there evidently haven't been any answers posted on the server. I know I've seen it before, so why not ask your favorite nursery how you can get it. Linda Guy wrote: > I've never looked to purchase dichondra. Can someone help Burt? Thanks! > > Linda > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Dichondra in Pasture > Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 03:28:24 +0000 > From: "Burt Baker" > To: lindaguy@qwest.net > > Hello: I would like to know when is the best time to plant dichondra. I have > some that naturally grows in my yard(surprisingly in a full sun location) > and would like to seed several shaded areas. Thanks, Burt Baker > > >From: "Linda Guy" > >To: wgk-kars@worldnet.att.net > >CC: "Arid_gardener" > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Dichondra in Pasture > >Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 14:01:18 -0700 > > > >A few of us discussed your problem while together in a class last night. > >We're wondering where you live, because in the low desert of Phoenix, none > >of us thought that dichondra would have a chance of surviving in a pasture > >environment. Even with > >irrigation, the sun and heat would be too much. If used locally in a > >landscape, it is employed in small situations in lieu of turf which won't > >generally grow in shade. Actually, I remember from my original MG training > >that dichondra usually grew where > >it wanted to be, never where the gardener wanted it! > > > >If it is thriving in your conditions, my next question for you is why it > >would be a problem? My husband, who had ranchers in his family, thought it > >wouldn't be a bad forage material, but also wondered how it could choke out > >the existing grasses. He > >wasn't sure about its nutritional value, but wouldn't have been as worried > >about it as say, johnson grass or jimsonweed. But he wanted me to add that > >it's been some time since he worked a ranch. > > > >There are probably some selective herbicides to apply, but you would > >continually be fighting it if, as you say, your irrigation water was > >bringing it into the field. Could you share a little more about where you > >are, what your needs are from the > >pasture, and how big a threat the dichondra is? > > > >Linda Guy, MG > > > >wgk-kars@worldnet.att.net wrote: > > > > > We are having a serious dichondra problem we believe carried through the > >irrigation canals onto our land. Most of our neighbors are beginning to > >experience this too. What can be done to eliminate this as it is killing > >off our pasture? Any ideas? > > > Thanks. > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Arid_gardener mailing list > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From zamijo@earthlink.net Wed Sep 19 05:44:22 2001 From: zamijo@earthlink.net (zamijo@earthlink.net) Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 22:44:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109190544.f8J5iMV26753@Ag.arizona.edu> hi please help with question about chinese elm trees. Last year we planted 5..they did every well and then one died from the top down...about 5 feet of it. We cut off the top and took it to the plant nursery and was told it had borers, and it should be sprayed but not until it loses its leaves when it becomes dormant. So we have kept cutting the top off it and spraying the wound with tar. We cut open the part we removed and found these ivory colored worms (larvae) with big heads. Just today we noticed that another of the trees has the upper four feet of it dead and dry... We chose the wrong kind of tree, didn't we? Do we really have to wait until the trees are dormant to spray for borers? Do we spray with Sevin? Please help.. We see these trees all over the valley and they are healthy and beautiful... we want ours to be also thanks zamijo From BillandJoyce5576@home.com Wed Sep 19 14:12:35 2001 From: BillandJoyce5576@home.com (BillandJoyce5576@home.com) Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 07:12:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109191412.f8JECZV04974@Ag.arizona.edu> Are there any type of lilac bushes that will grow in desert area? From jemmstar@yahoo.com Wed Sep 19 15:17:38 2001 From: jemmstar@yahoo.com (jemmstar@yahoo.com) Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 08:17:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109191517.f8JFHcV14305@Ag.arizona.edu> When, or should I trim/prune my Mexican Bird of Paridise plants? From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Wed Sep 19 16:27:04 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 09:27:04 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [Mexican or Red Bird of Paradise References: <200109191517.f8JFHcV14305@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <010501c14127$ed73be00$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> You can prune back Mexican or Red Bird of Paradise (Caesalpinia pulcherrima) to within 6"-12" from the ground in late winter or early spring and it will grow back when the weather warms. Scott Rogers MG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2001 8:17 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > When, or should I trim/prune my Mexican Bird of Paridise plants? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From elliray@yahoo.com Wed Sep 19 16:56:15 2001 From: elliray@yahoo.com (elliray@yahoo.com) Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 09:56:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109191656.f8JGuFV06345@Ag.arizona.edu> HAVE A HONG KONG ORCHID TREE WHICH HAS NOT DONE WELL THIS SUMMER. PLANTED IN MARCH, 36 INCH BASE. LEAVES YELLOW, BROWN, FALL OFF EASILY NOTE SOME NEW BRANCHES DEAD.WATER 2X WEEK PER NURSERY. HAVE NOT FED TREE ALSO PER NURSERY WHICH SUGGESTED TO FEED IN OCTOBER. AFRAID TREE WILL BE GONE BY THEN. From elliray@yahoo.com Wed Sep 19 17:11:24 2001 From: elliray@yahoo.com (Elli George) Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 10:11:24 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] HONG KONG OR CHID TREE Message-ID: <20010919171124.81866.qmail@web14602.mail.yahoo.com> HAVE A HONG KONG ORCHID TREE PLANTED MARCH/01 36 INCH BASE. TREE HAS YELLOW, BROWN LEAVES, FALLING OFF SHORTLY AFTER FORMING, SOME NEW BRANCHES DEAD. TREE LOOKS VERY SPARSE DESPITE SIZE. WATER (PER NURSERY) 2x WEEK. HAVE NOT FERTILIZED NURSERY SAID WAIT UNTIL OCTOBER. PLUS WHAT KIND OF FERTILIZER. RAY GEORGE ===== __________________________________________________ Terrorist Attacks on U.S. - How can you help? Donate cash, emergency relief information http://dailynews.yahoo.com/fc/US/Emergency_Information/ From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Sep 19 17:41:24 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 17:41:24 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lilacs in the desert Message-ID: The "traditional" lilacs need more chilling than we have in southern Arizona. Here are responses from a similar question: response 1: Maybe what your friend is referring to is the Hardenbergia Legumiosae (aka vine lilac). It's a wisteria climber from Australia that looks like lilac. I likes some shade but does very well here. Also, there's Buddleia Davidii (aka butterfly bush) which also looks a little like lilac. It does well out here; mine and my friend's are in an area where there's some summertime shade. Both are easy to get in nurseries. I don't know if these are for sale in the summer; I bought mine in the spring. Maybe there is some other "lilac" out there; but these are the ones that I know about. Ursula from Peoria ------------------- response 2: I believe the plant you seek is a buddleia, either b. alternifolia or b. davidii, the latter is fragrant. They are also known as 'butterfly bush' so expect more than a few to visit your yard. These are low-water use plants and I understand that they perform so much better than certain strains of the traditional lilac that can grow in certain local conditions [cooler corners of yard, eg] and with a lot of water. Linda Guy Master Gardener >From: BillandJoyce5576@home.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 07:12:35 -0700 (MST) > >Are there any type of lilac bushes that will grow in desert area? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Sep 19 18:15:02 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 11:15:02 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lilacs in the desert References: Message-ID: <007a01c14137$0200d420$3c52530c@j0r9501> French lilacs won't bloom in the low desert but Persian lilacs (Syringa persica) do okay. Can't recall when we planted our two bushes - perhaps 15 years ago - but we still get blossoms every spring. Not as large or as fragrant but still a lilac. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Linda Drew" To: ; > The "traditional" lilacs need more chilling > than we have in southern Arizona. Here are responses > from a similar question: > > response 1: > Maybe what your friend is referring to is the Hardenbergia Legumiosae (aka > vine lilac). It's a wisteria climber from Australia that looks like lilac. > I likes some shade but does very well here. > > Also, there's Buddleia Davidii (aka butterfly bush) which also looks a > little like lilac. It does well out here; mine and my friend's are in an > area where there's some summertime shade. > > Both are easy to get in nurseries. I don't know if these are for sale in > the summer; I bought mine in the spring. > > Maybe there is some other "lilac" out there; but these are the ones that I > know about. > > Ursula from Peoria > ------------------- > > response 2: > I believe the plant you seek is a buddleia, either b. alternifolia or b. > davidii, the latter is fragrant. They are also known as > 'butterfly bush' so expect more than a few to visit your yard. These are > low-water use plants and I understand that they perform so much > better than certain strains of the traditional lilac that can grow in > certain local conditions [cooler corners of yard, eg] and with a > lot of water. > > Linda Guy > Master Gardener > > > > > >From: BillandJoyce5576@home.com > >To: > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 07:12:35 -0700 (MST) > > > >Are there any type of lilac bushes that will grow in desert area? > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Arid_gardener mailing list > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From d.pipe@home.com Wed Sep 19 18:54:26 2001 From: d.pipe@home.com (d.pipe@home.com) Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 11:54:26 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109191854.f8JIsQV01477@Ag.arizona.edu> Being new to this area I put in a garden about three feet from my house. I have since had problems with termites and the exterminator has dug ditches along the house and injected Premise, Nicopet and Termidor at different times. My concern is ny vegetables have been poisoned by there pesticides. I have been unable to find any informtion about them. Do you have any information and would it be best if I move ny garden and start over? From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Wed Sep 19 20:48:14 2001 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 13:48:14 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lilacs in the desert References: Message-ID: <3BA9048E.C25E8485@email.sps.mot.com> Actually there are parts of southern Arizona where the lilac does quite well. I have seen it in bloom in Tombstone, and from talking to the lady who grows it, it grows very well there. I suspect the climate is different than even Tucson, as it is at a higher elevation. ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.gizmoaz.com Over 181 Rose Bushes Planted! Over 109 different varieties! Never a dull moment!! Linda Drew wrote: > The "traditional" lilacs need more chilling > than we have in southern Arizona. Here are responses > from a similar question: > > response 1: > Maybe what your friend is referring to is the Hardenbergia Legumiosae (aka > vine lilac). It's a wisteria climber from Australia that looks like lilac. > I likes some shade but does very well here. > > Also, there's Buddleia Davidii (aka butterfly bush) which also looks a > little like lilac. It does well out here; mine and my friend's are in an > area where there's some summertime shade. > > Both are easy to get in nurseries. I don't know if these are for sale in > the summer; I bought mine in the spring. > > Maybe there is some other "lilac" out there; but these are the ones that I > know about. > > Ursula from Peoria > ------------------- > > response 2: > I believe the plant you seek is a buddleia, either b. alternifolia or b. > davidii, the latter is fragrant. They are also known as > 'butterfly bush' so expect more than a few to visit your yard. These are > low-water use plants and I understand that they perform so much > better than certain strains of the traditional lilac that can grow in > certain local conditions [cooler corners of yard, eg] and with a > lot of water. > > Linda Guy > Master Gardener > > >From: BillandJoyce5576@home.com > >To: > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 07:12:35 -0700 (MST) > > > >Are there any type of lilac bushes that will grow in desert area? > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Arid_gardener mailing list > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Sep 19 21:04:22 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 21:04:22 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] termites Message-ID: I have forwarded your question to the Pesticide Information Office at the University of Arizona. They may be able to give us some information. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: d.pipe@home.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 11:54:26 -0700 (MST) > >Being new to this area I put in a garden about three feet from my house. I >have since had problems with termites and the exterminator has dug ditches >along the house and injected Premise, Nicopet and Termidor at different >times. My concern is ny vegetables have been poisoned by there pesticides. > I have been unable to find any informtion about them. Do you have any >information and would it be best if I move ny garden and start over? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From popsy97@yahoo.com Wed Sep 19 21:25:23 2001 From: popsy97@yahoo.com (Judy Braden) Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 14:25:23 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lilacs in the desert In-Reply-To: <3BA9048E.C25E8485@email.sps.mot.com> Message-ID: <20010919212523.26782.qmail@web11002.mail.yahoo.com> I'm not sure I've done this right to reply to everybody. Let me know if I've fouled it up. My experience with lilacs (Persian) in Phoenix has been that they will bloom the first, and maybe the second year after they come out of the nursery, but after that I could never get bloom again. I presume because of the lack of dormancy chill. I've heard other people have had the same experience. My bushes grew, but I wanted the flowers, naturally. Judy --- Alan Zelhart wrote: > Actually there are parts of southern Arizona where > the lilac does quite well. > I have seen it in bloom in Tombstone, and from > talking to the lady who grows > it, it grows very well there. I suspect the climate > is different than even > Tucson, as it is at a higher elevation. > > ----- > Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 > > http://www.gizmoaz.com > Over 181 Rose Bushes Planted! Over 109 different > varieties! Never a dull > moment!! > > Linda Drew wrote: > > > The "traditional" lilacs need more chilling > > than we have in southern Arizona. Here are > responses > > from a similar question: > > > > response 1: > > Maybe what your friend is referring to is the > Hardenbergia Legumiosae (aka > > vine lilac). It's a wisteria climber from > Australia that looks like lilac. > > I likes some shade but does very well here. > > > > Also, there's Buddleia Davidii (aka butterfly > bush) which also looks a > > little like lilac. It does well out here; mine and > my friend's are in an > > area where there's some summertime shade. > > > > Both are easy to get in nurseries. I don't know if > these are for sale in > > the summer; I bought mine in the spring. > > > > Maybe there is some other "lilac" out there; but > these are the ones that I > > know about. > > > > Ursula from Peoria > > ------------------- > > > > response 2: > > I believe the plant you seek is a buddleia, either > b. alternifolia or b. > > davidii, the latter is fragrant. They are also > known as > > 'butterfly bush' so expect more than a few to > visit your yard. These are > > low-water use plants and I understand that they > perform so much > > better than certain strains of the traditional > lilac that can grow in > > certain local conditions [cooler corners of yard, > eg] and with a > > lot of water. > > > > Linda Guy > > Master Gardener > > > > >From: BillandJoyce5576@home.com > > >To: > > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort > WWW page > > >Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 07:12:35 -0700 (MST) > > > > > >Are there any type of lilac bushes that will grow > in desert area? > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > > >Arid_gardener mailing list > > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at > http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Terrorist Attacks on U.S. - How can you help? Donate cash, emergency relief information http://dailynews.yahoo.com/fc/US/Emergency_Information/ From kscudder@arrow.com Wed Sep 19 22:54:55 2001 From: kscudder@arrow.com (kscudder@arrow.com) Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 15:54:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109192254.f8JMstV18357@Ag.arizona.edu> I have an ocotillo that is bending way over and almost touching the ground. It was planted last fall and is doing good. it has leaved out some and bloomed once during the summer. Could I stake it to bring it more upright? It is leaning to the East. Thanks! From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Wed Sep 19 23:22:31 2001 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 16:22:31 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] HONG KONG OR CHID TREE In-Reply-To: <20010919171124.81866.qmail@web14602.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20010919232231.5486.qmail@web14905.mail.yahoo.com> Sounds like you are watering to often and not deep enough.You must get the water 3-4 feet deep and at the canopy of the tree. try watering once a week. Don't fertilize the tree this year. --- Elli George wrote: > HAVE A HONG KONG ORCHID TREE PLANTED MARCH/01 36 > INCH > BASE. TREE HAS YELLOW, BROWN LEAVES, FALLING OFF > SHORTLY AFTER FORMING, SOME NEW BRANCHES DEAD. TREE > LOOKS VERY SPARSE DESPITE SIZE. WATER (PER NURSERY) > 2x WEEK. HAVE NOT FERTILIZED NURSERY SAID WAIT > UNTIL > OCTOBER. PLUS WHAT KIND OF FERTILIZER. RAY GEORGE > > ===== > > > __________________________________________________ > Terrorist Attacks on U.S. - How can you help? > Donate cash, emergency relief information > http://dailynews.yahoo.com/fc/US/Emergency_Information/ > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Terrorist Attacks on U.S. - How can you help? Donate cash, emergency relief information http://dailynews.yahoo.com/fc/US/Emergency_Information/ From Frankm@intsvc.com Wed Sep 19 23:17:32 2001 From: Frankm@intsvc.com (Frank Marquardt) Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 16:17:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sagauro cuttings. Message-ID: <000301c14161$43dd6320$0d7d8e3f@oemcomputer> Greetings .... I'm new to your forum and am looking forward to the learning experience. Two years ago I was lucky enough to acquire THREE Saguaro arms as a result of helping a friend of mine prune his plants on his property. Rather than disposing of the cuttings, I planted them in 15 gallon containers on a 50 / 50 above, ... below ground basis. Using mainly MISTING to hydrate and feed the cuttings to avoid rot, now two years later, I'm happy to report that TWO are alive and well. One cutting produced 14 flowers this spring. Both the surviving cuttings have virtually doubled in width since planting. I would be interested in finding out if any of you folks have had similar results. There seems to be a public misconception that these plants do not root from cuttings. As we all know here in Phoenix, we unfortunately see numerous fallen examples of these marvelous plants either being left to rot or bulldozed under every year. It would be nice if we could at least save SOME of the growing tips. Best regards, Frank From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Sep 19 22:49:48 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 15:49:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Lemon Problem References: <000701c1408b$69a16060$ee4b0b41@chnd1.az.home.com> Message-ID: <3BA9210C.98BFEC6F@qwest.net> After reviewing your pix, our citrus specialist, Dr. Glenn Wright, had the following to say: "Thanks for forwarding the message. The leaf symptoms are mesophyll collapse. Typically found on the south or west sides of the trees, mesophyll collapse occurs when hot temperatures overwhelm the leaf's cooling mechanism. Parts of the leaves then dry up. There is nothing that can be done about the problem. As for the symptoms on the fruit, it is difficult to say since the pictures are out of focus, and the symptoms are not enlarged. It could be simple sunburn or possibly katydid damage. I will be at the MCCE office next Wednesday. Perhaps some of the fruit could be there for me to look at? Otherwise, perhaps they could be mailed." MCCE is the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension Office at 4341 E. Broadway Road in Phoenix. Dealing with mesophyll collapse is discussed at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/cultural/leaf-drp.htm Good luck! Linda From Frankm@intsvc.com Thu Sep 20 00:32:40 2001 From: Frankm@intsvc.com (Frank Marquardt) Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 17:32:40 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sagauro cuttings Message-ID: <000301c1416b$c2e9e8a0$127d8e3f@oemcomputer> Greetings .... I'm new to your forum and am looking forward to the learning experience. Two years ago I was lucky enough to acquire THREE Saguaro arms as a result of helping a friend of mine prune his plants on his property. Rather than disposing of the cuttings, I planted them in 15 gallon containers on a 50 / 50 above, ... below ground basis. Using mainly MISTING to hydrate and feed the cuttings to avoid rot, now two years later, I'm happy to report that TWO are alive and well. One cutting produced 14 flowers this spring. Both the surviving cuttings have virtually doubled in width since planting. I would be interested in finding out if any of you folks have had similar results. There seems to be a public misconception that these plants do not root from cuttings. As we all know here in Phoenix, we unfortunately see numerous fallen examples of these marvelous plants either being left to rot or bulldozed under every year. It would be nice if we could at least save SOME of the growing tips. Best regards, Frank From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Sep 20 02:01:06 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 22:01:06 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Elm tree with borers Message-ID: <10.12b17068.28daa7e2@aol.com> --part1_10.12b17068.28daa7e2_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Insects and disease will attack trees and plants that are in a stressed condition. Stress can be caused by transplant shock, sun burning, improper pruning, mechanical damage and most often by inadequate irrigation. The borer that you have sounds like a flathead borer. Cut off the sections of tree that are affected into live wood and dispose of the parts cut off, then spray the tree in April, May and June with a chemical containing lindane. Check out this this site for info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_10.12b17068.28daa7e2_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Insects and disease will attack trees and plants that are in a stressed condition. Stress can be caused by transplant shock, sun burning, improper pruning, mechanical damage and most often by inadequate irrigation. The borer that you have sounds like a flathead borer. Cut off the sections of tree that are affected into live wood and dispose of the parts cut off, then spray the tree in April, May and June with a chemical containing lindane.
Check out this this site for info on irrigation:  http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_10.12b17068.28daa7e2_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Sep 20 02:01:13 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 22:01:13 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] HONG KONG OR CHID TREE Message-ID: <29.1aee88e8.28daa7e9@aol.com> --part1_29.1aee88e8.28daa7e9_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ray The Orchid Tree does not like our alkaline soil which can cause salt burn and especially during the heat of summer. Deep watering can help to remove the salt from the root zone. I have as yet to see an orchid tree in the Phoenix area that didn't look salt burned during the summer. The fact that the leaves are falling off would indicate inadequate water. Do not fertilize in the fall, the fertilizer will spur new growth which will be frost tender. Check out this site for info on proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_29.1aee88e8.28daa7e9_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ray
The Orchid Tree does not like our alkaline soil which can cause salt burn and especially during the heat of summer. Deep watering can help to remove the salt from the root zone. I have as yet to see an orchid tree in the Phoenix area that didn't look salt burned during the summer. The fact that the leaves are falling off would indicate inadequate water.

Do not fertilize in the fall, the fertilizer will spur new growth which will be frost tender.

Check out this site for info on proper irrigation:  http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_29.1aee88e8.28daa7e9_boundary-- From ruewelker@cs.com Thu Sep 20 02:59:03 2001 From: ruewelker@cs.com (ruewelker@cs.com) Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 19:59:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109200259.f8K2x2V22855@Ag.arizona.edu> How can I get rid of white flies without using pesticides/insecticides? From Cath37@aol.com Thu Sep 20 03:23:27 2001 From: Cath37@aol.com (Cath37@aol.com) Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 20:23:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109200323.f8K3NRV28385@Ag.arizona.edu> We have an acacia seligna tree four years old. It is growing well except the top and north side of the tree have sparse leaves. I try to deep water it once a month plus it gets some shallow water in between. Am I giving it too much water? From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Thu Sep 20 12:33:52 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 05:33:52 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: White Flies References: <200109200259.f8K2x2V22855@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000f01c141d0$82be5800$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> Here are three different methods of white fly control that you might try. ·Rinse the underside of the leaves with a powerful stream of water, it this does not work, you can try using soapy water on the plants.. · Put water out for them in a dish or pail. When they go to drink they drown . · Place yellow paper plates with Vaseline on them around your plants. They will be attracted to the color, and then trapped by the Vaseline. Scott Rogers MG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2001 7:59 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > How can I get rid of white flies without using pesticides/insecticides? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From df.alston@worldnet.att.net Thu Sep 20 16:54:00 2001 From: df.alston@worldnet.att.net (df.alston@worldnet.att.net) Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 09:54:00 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109201654.f8KGs0F17467@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a tremendous amounts of different kinds of ants in my yard and they are in my compost pile. Are ants harmful/destructive to gardens? From jkandell@twistedclicks.com Thu Sep 20 17:59:59 2001 From: jkandell@twistedclicks.com (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 10:59:59 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200109201654.f8KGs0F17467@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <002001c141fe$444118a0$8ca20404@oemcomputer> You'll get different answers on this. I also have tons of ants, and they seem to help things by polinating. They also lead me right to the aphids so I can wipe them off. :-) Right now I have a red ant hill in the middle of my sweet potatoes! On the other hand, against ants, they seem to pester the ladybugs who eat the aphids. And, I lost all my yard-long beans to ants, who chopped down the bean stalks. Didn't seem to life any other bean or vegetable. So overall, I don't mind them. Don't assume just because they'll bite you that they're bad for plants. jk ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2001 9:54 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I have a tremendous amounts of different kinds of ants in my yard and they are in my compost pile. Are ants harmful/destructive to gardens? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From salud_yanes@netzero.net Thu Sep 20 18:36:37 2001 From: salud_yanes@netzero.net (salud_yanes@netzero.net) Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 11:36:37 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109201836.f8KIabP09917@Ag.arizona.edu> How can I get rid of grass in flowerbeds? From www.pritchB@home.com Thu Sep 20 21:17:15 2001 From: www.pritchB@home.com (www.pritchB@home.com) Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 14:17:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109202117.f8KLHEP15164@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a willow acacia tree growing 4 feet from a block wall. I am concerned the root system may damage the wall by causing it to buckle. Also, seem to be invasive sending many roots into the yard which sprout continually. Can I assume that it will eventually compete with the grass for water and nutrients? I truly appreciate you help on this. D. Pritchert From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Sep 20 22:25:38 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 18:25:38 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Watering Acacia saligna Message-ID: <17.1bd7f164.28dbc6e2@aol.com> --part1_17.1bd7f164.28dbc6e2_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Shallow watering does more harm than good for your trees. I would suggest deep watering at least every two weeks during summer. Check out this site for info on watering: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_17.1bd7f164.28dbc6e2_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Shallow watering does more harm than good for your trees. I would suggest deep watering at least every two weeks during summer.
Check out this site for info on watering:  http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_17.1bd7f164.28dbc6e2_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Sep 20 22:25:40 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 18:25:40 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Willow Acacia Message-ID: <13f.1b85464.28dbc6e4@aol.com> --part1_13f.1b85464.28dbc6e4_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Yes, the Willow Acacia or any other tree roots will compete with grass for water and nutrients. If your fence has a strong footing the tree roots probably will not damage it, however this is not to say that it can't happen. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_13f.1b85464.28dbc6e4_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Yes, the Willow Acacia  or any other tree roots will compete with grass for water and nutrients.
If your fence has a strong footing the tree roots probably will not damage it, however this is not to say that it can't happen.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_13f.1b85464.28dbc6e4_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Sep 20 22:25:36 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 18:25:36 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grass in flower beds Message-ID: <146.1daf063.28dbc6e0@aol.com> --part1_146.1daf063.28dbc6e0_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit A herbicide with the chemical Flazifop can be used to eliminate most grasses that invade flower beds and shrubs, it can be sprayed over the top without damage when directions are followed. Do not spray on palm trees or bamboo. One product name is Grass Be Gone, there are others. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_146.1daf063.28dbc6e0_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit A herbicide with the chemical Flazifop can be used to eliminate most grasses that invade flower beds and shrubs, it can be sprayed over the top without damage when directions are followed. Do not spray on palm trees or bamboo. One product name is Grass Be Gone, there are others.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_146.1daf063.28dbc6e0_boundary-- From ldlinda1@qwest.net Thu Sep 20 22:44:42 2001 From: ldlinda1@qwest.net (ldlinda1@qwest.net) Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 15:44:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109202244.f8KMigP04721@Ag.arizona.edu> When is the best time to plant dichondra grass? Thank You From clydic@goodnet.com Fri Sep 21 04:50:07 2001 From: clydic@goodnet.com (Carol Lydic) Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 21:50:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200109201654.f8KGs0F17467@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: >From Gila County: I welcome ants to my garden; and my compost bins as well. They are an indication that it is healthy and they contribute to the overall lifelines in the garden's circle of life. They are part of the foodchain, i.e., the lizards and other reptilia are drawn by their presence. fwiw. Carol Lydic, Gila County Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of df.alston@worldnet.att.net Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2001 9:54 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a tremendous amounts of different kinds of ants in my yard and they are in my compost pile. Are ants harmful/destructive to gardens? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From clydic@goodnet.com Fri Sep 21 04:50:10 2001 From: clydic@goodnet.com (Carol Lydic) Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 21:50:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200109200259.f8K2x2V22855@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: There is a product available in your garden center called Tanglefoot which is good as well. It should be applied, as the vaseline suggested by another responder, to something bright yellow in color (I used 1/6 of a yellow 6-pak I had on hand). For severe infestations, washing with a soapy water probably works best and needs to be repeated after a week or so for good measure. -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of ruewelker@cs.com Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2001 7:59 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How can I get rid of white flies without using pesticides/insecticides? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From byrne90@hotmail.com Fri Sep 21 13:24:41 2001 From: byrne90@hotmail.com (byrne90@hotmail.com) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 06:24:41 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109211324.f8LDOfP15395@Ag.arizona.edu> I live in Nova Scotia, Canada. Our yard is inundated with wild strawberries that put out a zillion runners. What can we do to get rid of these pesky plants? We also have A LOT of buttercup and chickweed. We have limed, aerated, weeded and feeded... nothing seems to work. HELP!!? From byrne90@hotmail.com Fri Sep 21 13:26:08 2001 From: byrne90@hotmail.com (byrne90@hotmail.com) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 06:26:08 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109211326.f8LDQ8P15553@Ag.arizona.edu> I live in Nova Scotia, Canada. Our yard is inundated with wild strawberries that put out a zillion runners. What can we do to get rid of these pesky plants? We also have A LOT of buttercup and chickweed. We have limed, aerated, weeded and feeded... nothing seems to work. HELP!!? My name is not Lucy Bradley (I do not know where that came from!) Cheryl From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Sep 21 14:15:49 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 07:15:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Prairie Dog Problem References: <200109130238.f8D2cvH28205@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BAB4B94.CFC34485@qwest.net> You can review options for handling vertebrate pests on the Urban Pest Management website of the UA at http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/vertebrates.html Linda Guy, MG ScottMac320@aol.com wrote: > Hello,I need help with my praire dog problem.I've tried plants,gum,smoke bombs,and the sound wave unit.They are eating up my bermuda grass.What should I do? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Sep 21 14:19:32 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 07:19:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gardenias References: <200109141522.f8EFMJH29572@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BAB4C74.C9FA549E@qwest.net> We have a publication devoted to camellias and gardenias [MC 29] which you have to order, as it is not online. These require quite special handling because they do not like our alkaline soil [peat, irrigating with vinegar solutions, other techniques to acidify the soil are helpful], they do not like our dry heat, and the sun just bakes them. With an appropriate exposure and a lot of care, you may have some limited success. Check out the 'Flowers' section of the publications list at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Any other website may not have the help that you need that would specifically address our climate in the Phoenix area. Linda Guy, MG emetootsie@qwest.net wrote: > Could you please send me a website on Gardenias? I would like to know how to care for them . Thank you EME > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Sep 21 14:25:19 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 07:25:19 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cottage Style Garden Using Natives References: <200109172347.f8HNlmV24719@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BAB4DCE.A4814A54@qwest.net> An excellent place to start for ideas is High Country Gardens in New Mexico. They have landscape packages already designed, using SW plant materials. The catalogs lay these out quite nicely, or you can look through their website at http://www.highcountrygardens.com/index.html Just remember that Santa Fe is a much higher elevation than the Phoenix metro area. You may need to acclimate plants ordered from them [better perhaps to try to find local sources?] and our planting times will not necessarily be the same. Linda Guy, MG dbrennan@firstam.com wrote: > I would like to plan an English style garden in my backyard. Are there 'desert style' plants than I can use? I would like a white daisy which blooms in the summer. The exposure is south - sun all day. Please help. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Sep 21 14:28:13 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 07:28:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bending Ocotillo References: <200109192254.f8JMstV18357@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BAB4E7D.53EE97B6@qwest.net> You could try to stake it, or alternatively, you could encourage it to reach the ground and take root, starting a new plant. Check out the succulents chapter in the MG manual, which includes propogation techniques http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/cacti/index.html Linda Guy, MG kscudder@arrow.com wrote: > I have an ocotillo that is bending way over and almost touching the ground. It was planted last fall and is doing good. it has leaved out some and bloomed once during the summer. Could I stake it to bring it more upright? It is leaning to the East. Thanks! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Sep 21 14:32:31 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 07:32:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Wild Strawberries, Buttercup and Chickweed References: <200109211324.f8LDOfP15395@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BAB4F7E.1D2CBDC4@qwest.net> I would suggest you contact our counterparts in Canada. You have reached a gardening forum sponsored by the Urban Horticulture area of Cooperative Extension based in the low Sonoran desert of Phoenix, Arizona. You might begin your search at http://www.cityfarmer.org/ which is a link we have on our website for Canada Linda Guy, MG byrne90@hotmail.com wrote: > I live in Nova Scotia, Canada. Our yard is inundated with > wild strawberries that put out a zillion runners. What can we do to > get rid of these pesky plants? We also have A LOT of buttercup and > chickweed. We have limed, aerated, weeded and feeded... nothing seems to work. > > HELP!!? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Sep 21 16:28:06 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 16:28:06 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] termites Message-ID: I talked with the Pesticide Information Office this morning. Termites are not attracted by vegetable gardens. Termites and other insects are attracted to moisture. If you irrigate at the foundation to your house you may create an environment that is attractive to termites and other insects. Did you have evidence of active termite activity in the house? There are some native desert termites that eat weedy plants but generally do not cause structural damage to houses. The toxicants used for termites do not move through the soil. Premise and Nicopet have been on the market for some time and they do not appear to move into plants whose roots are growing into the treated area. Termidor is fairly new on the market and all the research has not been done on it. In one trial, wheat plants growing in treated soil did take up the Termidor. Again, the roots are growing in the treated soil; the roots would have to come in contact with the toxicant in the soil and the plant would have to take it up. Is the vegetable garden a raised bed? Do roots from any of the plants extend into the treated area? My own opinion only, if I wasn't sure whether the roots were growing in treated soil, I wouldn't eat the vegetables. You know more about when and how the treatments were made and how/where the plants are growing so you will have to make your own judgement. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Linda Drew" >To: d.pipe@home.com, arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] termites >Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 21:04:22 +0000 > >I have forwarded your question to the Pesticide >Information Office at the University of Arizona. >They may be able to give us some information. > >Linda Drew >Master Gardener > > >>From: d.pipe@home.com >>To: >>Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >>Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 11:54:26 -0700 (MST) >> >>Being new to this area I put in a garden about three feet from my house. >>I >>have since had problems with termites and the exterminator has dug ditches >>along the house and injected Premise, Nicopet and Termidor at different >>times. My concern is ny vegetables have been poisoned by there >>pesticides. >> I have been unable to find any informtion about them. Do you have any >>information and would it be best if I move ny garden and start over? >> >>_______________________________________________ >>Arid_gardener mailing list >>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > >_________________________________________________________________ >Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From TINAGINSBERG@msn.com Fri Sep 21 17:56:00 2001 From: TINAGINSBERG@msn.com (TINAGINSBERG@msn.com) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 10:56:00 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109211756.f8LHu0P05258@Ag.arizona.edu> My question is how often and how long should I water specific plants and what dripper gph should each plant have if all my plants are on the same line and timer. The various plants I have are: gold lantana, bougainvillea, hibiscus, little leaf periwinkle, cape honeysuckle, heavenly bamboo,VINES - lady banks rose, Carolina yellow jessamine,star jasmine - just to name a few. Right now there all watered 1 hour everyother day and the only plants doing well are, lantana, bougainvillea, hibiscus. The rest are not looking to good. Help me please!! Thank you From rfjts@arn.net Fri Sep 21 20:30:43 2001 From: rfjts@arn.net (rfjts@arn.net) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 13:30:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109212030.f8LKUhP08546@Ag.arizona.edu> How do I start desert Bird of Paradise (Caesalpinia gilliesii) from seed/ Will it grow in the Texas Panhandle (3200ft w/19in of rain annually)? From terbl1@yahoo.com Fri Sep 21 21:45:21 2001 From: terbl1@yahoo.com (terbl1@yahoo.com) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 14:45:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109212145.f8LLjKP24760@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a Bermuda lawn. In one section the grass shows no desire to send out runners and spread. It just grows tall. I gave it Ironite. It responds well to watering, is green, but will not spread. How do I get it to send out runners and spread? From George85358@Hotmail.com Fri Sep 21 21:54:32 2001 From: George85358@Hotmail.com (George85358@Hotmail.com) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 14:54:32 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109212154.f8LLsWP26406@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a desert willow tree, the kind with small white blooms, not the purple & white kind. Planted about 3 years ago as a 24" box tree. It is planted in a large hole but in caliche type ground. Last year it developed a crack in the bark and into the trunk, this year the bark is pealing off up about 18" on the trunk. It is treated twice a year with Ironite, gypsum and fertilizer. This spring it was full of blooms and had lots of new growth and at this time still looks healthy. I have used Disysten on it this year also. I don't want to lose this tree - Help please! From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Fri Sep 21 22:47:04 2001 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 15:47:04 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200109211756.f8LHu0P05258@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20010921224704.17676.qmail@web14906.mail.yahoo.com> Many things factor into setting a schedule for watering a variety of plants.How old and big are the plants ? how long are they in the ground? What size emitter areyou using on them?Some of the plants mentioned are low water use and others require more water.In any case, watering 1 hr. every other day is NOT enough.A drip system, when properly installed and used should be run for a minium of 5-6 hours depending on the plants needs. --- TINAGINSBERG@msn.com wrote: > My question is how often and how long should I water > specific plants and what dripper gph should each > plant have if all my plants are on the same line and > timer. The various plants I have are: gold > lantana, bougainvillea, hibiscus, little leaf > periwinkle, cape honeysuckle, heavenly bamboo,VINES > - lady banks rose, Carolina yellow jessamine,star > jasmine - just to name a few. Right now there all > watered 1 hour everyother day and the only plants > doing well are, lantana, bougainvillea, hibiscus. > The rest are not looking to good. Help me please!! > Thank you > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email alerts & NEW webcam video instant messaging with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com From NCP25@qwest.net Fri Sep 21 23:05:26 2001 From: NCP25@qwest.net (NCP25@qwest.net) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 16:05:26 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109212305.f8LN5QP10190@Ag.arizona.edu> I'm having a problem with black-widow spiders. They are hanging out on the ceiling of the overhang over the front door, also in the rock waterfall area, and we find them crawling on the carpet inside the house. What can we do? From rodgersmichael@qwest.net Fri Sep 21 23:11:47 2001 From: rodgersmichael@qwest.net (rodgersmichael@qwest.net) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 16:11:47 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109212311.f8LNBlP11465@Ag.arizona.edu> Where can I find information on plum tree varieties that can thrive in the low desert? I am interested in a variety I grew up with in San Diego. I don't have the name of the plum, but a Wild Oats Store recently had a black plum called "Black Friar" that was very, very close to what I remember from my childhood. Thanks is advance, Michael From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Sat Sep 22 01:03:51 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 18:03:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Landscape Palms References: <200109212311.f8LNBlP11465@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <008c01c14302$72712da0$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> Use this link our publication "Arizona Landscape Palms" (AZ1021). http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#misc Starting on page 8 in the information that you are looking for. Here is a link to pictures and descriptions of the numerous palm trees that are on campus of the University of Arizona http://eebweb.arizona.edu/HERB/PALMS/key.html Scott Rogers MG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, September 21, 2001 4:11 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Where can I find information on plum tree varieties that can thrive in the low desert? > > I am interested in a variety I grew up with in San Diego. I don't have the name of the plum, but a Wild Oats Store recently had a black plum called "Black Friar" that was very, very close to what I remember from my childhood. > > Thanks is advance, > > Michael > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From Beverlyfz@aol.com Sat Sep 22 01:27:11 2001 From: Beverlyfz@aol.com (Beverlyfz@aol.com) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 21:27:11 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rose Dying Message-ID: <167.1402271.28dd42ef@aol.com> I have a Chrysler Imperial climbing rose that suddenly almost completely dried up for no apparent reason. It has been in the same sheltered spot for 8-10 years, and is 8 ft tall and 6 ft wide. I haven't changed its care. It has always gotten real sparse in the summer with very few leaves and grows again in the fall. It has morning sun only, and is mulched heavily. Some of the bigger stems are still green. Will it leaf out again and come back? Thx, Beverly From thenetts@aol.com Sat Sep 22 02:26:54 2001 From: thenetts@aol.com (thenetts@aol.com) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 19:26:54 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109220226.f8M2QsP04775@Ag.arizona.edu> I had a very unproductive year with my vegitable garden. I think the soil may be "tired" despite the addition of manure and a little homemade compost. I have heard that you can overwinter rye and then turn it under in the spring. Is this a good idea in our area. Is it winter ryegrass or rye like the grain? From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Sep 22 02:32:20 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2001 19:32:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Saguaro cuttings. References: <000301c14161$43dd6320$0d7d8e3f@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <3BABF833.632DAC02@qwest.net> Thanks for sharing your experiences. That's how we all can learn and benefit from each other. I didn't think that there was a misconception that cactus 'parts' could be used to start new plants. I often trade from my front porch container collection. I think, rather, that many people find it difficult to deal with the spines and glochids. It's easier to handle less armored vegetation! Often it is recommended that these pieces be allow to dry and 'scab' over for a period of a week or two before planting. Some dust with a trace of sulfur too. More info on cactus propogation is in the relevant chapter of the Master Gardener Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ Linda Guy, MG Frank Marquardt wrote: > Greetings .... > > I'm new to your forum and am looking forward to the > learning experience. > > Two years ago I was lucky enough to acquire THREE > Saguaro arms as a result of helping a friend of mine > prune his plants on his property. > > Rather than disposing of the cuttings, I planted them > in 15 gallon containers on a 50 / 50 above, ... below > ground basis. > > Using mainly MISTING to hydrate and feed the cuttings > to avoid rot, now two years later, I'm happy to report that > TWO are alive and well. One cutting produced 14 flowers > this spring. Both the surviving cuttings have virtually > doubled in width since planting. > > I would be interested in finding out if any of you folks > have had similar results. There seems to be a public > misconception that these plants do not root from > cuttings. > > As we all know here in Phoenix, we unfortunately > see numerous fallen examples of these marvelous > plants either being left to rot or bulldozed under > every year. It would be nice if we could at least > save SOME of the growing tips. > > Best regards, > Frank > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Ranger1242@aol.com Sat Sep 22 11:24:17 2001 From: Ranger1242@aol.com (Ranger1242@aol.com) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 04:24:17 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109221124.f8MBOHP20927@Ag.arizona.edu> I notice that a lot of commercial landscapers are scalping bermuda grass lawns this time of year. Is this a sound practice and why do this? From ELDERESLC@AOL.COM Sat Sep 22 15:25:52 2001 From: ELDERESLC@AOL.COM (ELDERESLC@AOL.COM) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 08:25:52 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109221525.f8MFPqP03586@Ag.arizona.edu> WE RECENTLY MOVED TO PHOENIX FROM UTAH. COULD YOU TELL ME THE PROCEDURE OF RESEEDING MY LAWN? I UNDERSTAND THIS SHOULD BE DONE NEXT MONTH. THANKYOU, ED From starlene@qwest.net Sat Sep 22 16:07:10 2001 From: starlene@qwest.net (Starlene Stewart) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 09:07:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200109221124.f8MBOHP20927@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000c01c14380$a34b9900$8bd5e13f@pavilion> Hi, I'm not a master gardener, and but I'd like to offer an answer to your question. Bermuda grass dies off somewhat in the winter, so usually another type of winter grass is planted, I'm pretty sure this is rye grass. So the Bermuda gets cut down really low so it won't show. I only plant winter grass in a small area of my property, on my front lawn, which is a square about 12' x 12'. I don't cut the bermuda down really low, I just plant the rye grass and it seems to work out well for me. I think businesses prefer a neater look with just the rye grass. This is my understanding of the practice. Starlene ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2001 4:24 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I notice that a lot of commercial landscapers are scalping bermuda grass lawns this time of year. Is this a sound practice and why do this? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Sat Sep 22 18:52:08 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 11:52:08 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Scalping bermuda grass lawns References: <200109221124.f8MBOHP20927@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <003401c14397$af120140$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> Scalping Bermuda is done to help remove or reduce Bermuda grass thatch and assure seed contact with soil. This is one of the steps prior to reseeding with rye grass. We have a four page publication "Overseeding Bermuda Grass" (8652) which contains complete instructions for overseeding . The publication that is available at any of the four Maricopa County Cooperative Extension offices. You can pick it up for free, or send the main office in Phoenix $1.00 and they will mail it to you. Use this link to find the addresses of the offices. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/question.htm Scott Rogers MG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2001 4:24 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I notice that a lot of commercial landscapers are scalping bermuda grass lawns this time of year. Is this a sound practice and why do this? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Sun Sep 23 02:40:56 2001 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 19:40:56 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200109221525.f8MFPqP03586@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20010923024056.78822.qmail@web14909.mail.yahoo.com> If you want a green lawn in the winter, you must overseed with rye. Bermuda goes dormant in the winter. I find it best to miss the last mowing before you want to overseed and let the grass grow taller.Then raise your lawn mower to the highest position and cut it. Drop the mower to the next lower position and cut the lawn again. Continue till you have the mower as low as it will go saving all the clippings from all the cut you made. This is called scalping the lawn. NOW put down the rye seed and cover it with the clippngs. This will hold moisture.temperature and hide the seed from the birds. water the lawn 4-5 times a day for 4-5 minutes each time. As you see the grass starting to grow,cut the frequencies you water and increase the length of time you run the water till you are at the normal schedule. By this time, the clippngs would have decomposed and returned the nutrients they took from the soil. I recommend leaving the clippings every 4th mowing as a means of adding nutrients back to the soil. --- ELDERESLC@aol.com wrote: > WE RECENTLY MOVED TO PHOENIX FROM UTAH. COULD YOU > TELL ME THE PROCEDURE OF RESEEDING MY LAWN? I > UNDERSTAND THIS SHOULD BE DONE NEXT MONTH. > > THANKYOU, > ED > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email alerts & NEW webcam video instant messaging with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com From Agnesgilpatrick@aol.com Sun Sep 23 02:50:15 2001 From: Agnesgilpatrick@aol.com (Agnesgilpatrick@aol.com) Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 19:50:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109230250.f8N2oFP27466@Ag.arizona.edu> Can you tell me why my navel orange and my orange tree have suddenly started dropping leaves in the last week? I live in the Phoenix area. Thank You From b.marcel@home.com Sun Sep 23 15:23:00 2001 From: b.marcel@home.com (b.marcel@home.com) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 08:23:00 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109231523.f8NFN0P21487@Ag.arizona.edu> Hello, I have a problem that has gotten progrssively worse each summer. I live in the north central corridor, around 7th Ave. and Northern. I have very large Arizona Ash trees in both my front and back yard. We have totally lost our Bermuda lawn the past few years. So, this year in May, we put in Fescue, on recommendation of Berridge's Nursery. It came in nicely, but by the end of July, even though we fertilized, it started to die. I have absolutely no grass, roots or anything left. We do have some nettle weeds that I've tried to pull out. From b.marcel@home.com Sun Sep 23 15:23:01 2001 From: b.marcel@home.com (b.marcel@home.com) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 08:23:01 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109231523.f8NFN0P21505@Ag.arizona.edu> Hello, I have a problem that has gotten progrssively worse each summer. I live in the north central corridor, around 7th Ave. and Northern. I have very large Arizona Ash trees in both my front and back yard. We have totally lost our Bermuda lawn the past few years. So, this year in May, we put in Fescue, on recommendation of Berridge's Nursery. It came in nicely, but by the end of July, even though we fertilized, it started to die. I have absolutely no grass, roots or anything left. We do have some nettle weeds that I've tried to pull out. From b.marcel@home.com Sun Sep 23 15:30:44 2001 From: b.marcel@home.com (b.marcel@home.com) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 08:30:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109231530.f8NFUiP22119@Ag.arizona.edu> Hello, I have a problem that has gotten progrssively worse each summer. I live in the north central corridor, around 7th Ave. and Northern. I have very large Arizona Ash trees in both my front and back yard. We have totally lost our front yard Bermuda lawn the past few years. The back is better, though there are some patches dead. Those trees are not as large as in the front. So, this year in May, we put in Fescue, on recommendation of Berridge's Nursery. It came in nicely, but by the end of July, even though we fertilized, it started to die. I have absolutely no grass, roots or anything left. The ground is damp, I have sprinklers. We do have some nettle weeds that I've tried to pull out. Now the weird part is, that we have had a beautiful winter lawn that has come in very nicely each fall. One nursery said they thought that with my shade and the Ash trees using so much water, that it has sucked the roots dry. Then, when the trees are dormant, the rye has water to grow. Someone else suggesed pearl scale, but that was not the problem last year. We are considering St. Augustine next spring, but I need a solution before we put any more money into this embarrassing mess! I appreciate any help. My phone # is 602-896-5751 at work, and 944-3693 at home, evenings. Thank you again! Brbara Marcellus From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Sep 23 18:58:30 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 14:58:30 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus leaf drop Message-ID: <161.15ad897.28df8ad6@aol.com> --part1_161.15ad897.28df8ad6_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The following link will explain the causes of citrus leaf drop: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/cultural/leaf-drp.htm Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_161.15ad897.28df8ad6_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The following link will explain the causes of citrus leaf drop:
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/cultural/leaf-drp.htm

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_161.15ad897.28df8ad6_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Sep 23 20:04:48 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 16:04:48 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rye grass overseeding Message-ID: <97.1baa8b3d.28df9a60@aol.com> --part1_97.1baa8b3d.28df9a60_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Turf grass contractors because of the large amount of turf that they must overseed, by necessity must start very early in the season in order to finish overseeding before the temperatures drop to the point where the seed will not germinate. By planting early the rye seed must compete with the bermuda which is still actively growing. Recoimmended planting times are when daytime temps are under 90 degrees and night time lows are in the mid 60s which will usually fall in mid October. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_97.1baa8b3d.28df9a60_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Turf grass contractors because of the large amount of turf that they must overseed, by necessity must start very early in the season in order to finish overseeding before the temperatures drop to the point where the seed will not germinate. By planting early the rye seed must compete with the bermuda which is still actively growing.
Recoimmended planting times are when daytime temps are under 90 degrees and night time lows are in the mid 60s which will usually fall in mid October.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener   --part1_97.1baa8b3d.28df9a60_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Sep 23 20:04:53 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 16:04:53 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rose Dying Message-ID: --part1_b8.1bc78f3e.28df9a65_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Beverly, I've found that the life expectancy of roses here in the low desert with out full time shade is only 7 to 8 years. It sounds as if you are doing everything right provided you are watering adequately. If the canes are still green and we don't have too much more of these double digit days the rose should survive. I'm enclosing an article that I coauthored for the Republic not long ago on summer rose care. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian SUMMER ROSE CARE The summer months are especially tough on roses, however, here are some tips to help them survive our hot weather. Roses need to be watered frequently and deeply. Water at least twice each week, and if they look stressed, water again. Deep watering will encourage the roots to grow deeper and will also flush the salts below the root level. Roses in containers will have to be watered several times a week. As long as you have good soil, a combination of one-third native soil, one-third mulch and one-third sand, perlite, peat moss or pumice, you'll have good drainage and you won't over water. Roses also need to stay cool. Use three to four inches of good mulch around each rose bush. You can use compost, peat moss, forest mulch, straw or bark chips. This will not only keep the root's cool, it will also conserve moisture, cut down on weeds and help too built a good healthy soil structure. Roses are heavy feeders and need some fertilizer during the hot summer. A slow release granular fertilizer works well and usually lasts about six weeks. Use one-third to one-half cup for each standard size bush. Scatter the fertilizer around the drip line. Water well before and after each application to prevent burning the roots. You can also use a water soluble fertilizer, such as Miracle Grow, Peters or Magnum Grow, but this will need to be applied every two weeks. In the summer, use one-half the amount you would normally use. Again, water well before and after applying the fertilizer. Roses slow down during our hot months and produce smaller and fewer blooms. Cut off spent blooms, cut back to the first five-leaflet set, leave as much foliage as possible. The foliage will help to shade the bush. Watch for sucker growth, these are canes that come from below the bud union. They appear different from the other canes. Cut them off below the bud union. The hot dry weather will bring a variety of insects Watch the lower leaves for spider mites. The lower leaves will be lighter and have a fuzzy appearance. The underside of the leaf will feel like sandpaper. The spider mites suck the juice from the underside of the leaf. To control them, remove the damaged foliage and use a strong spray of water every other day. If this does not take care of them, there are several effective miticides on the market. Remember to read and follow directions on thecontainer. Aphids are the most common of the insects affecting roses. They can be green, brown or reddish brown. They suck the juices from the bush and leave a shiney sticky substance on the leaves. To get rid of them use a strong spray of water every day. Thrips are probably the most damaging of the insects. They are tiny, brownish yellow winged insects. You can barely see them. They enter the bud and eat on the flower petals, causing them to turn brown. The only way to control them is to spray the buds before they open with a good insecticide. Besure to read and follow directions on the package. Leaf cutter bees will make semicircles in the rose leaves. They use the leaf circles to build their nests. The damage to the plant is minimal, and the bees are important pollinators, so there is no need for control. Other problems to watch out for are nutrient deficiencies. The most common is iron deficiency. The leaves will be pale green or yellow with dark green veins. Add chelated iron (FE 138) according to package directions. Nitrogen deficiency is characterized by yellowing of the leaves, reduced growth, weak and spindly stems. With a Potassium deficiency the older leaves will turn yellow and then brown, sometimes purple. New shoots will harden , stunted and flower buds may become distorted. Phosphorus deficiency will cause older leaves to drop without turning yellow, leaves appear dull grey-green and may cup down. Manganese deficiency is similar to iron chlorosis in that there is interveinal chlorosis. The small veins remain green with a netted appearance. Zinc deficiency causes new growth to stop and also causes distorted chlorotic leaves. These problems can all re corrected with a good rose fertilizer. Maintaining a good soil PH of 6.0 to 6.5 is ideal for growing good roses. The best way to take care of your roses in summer is to make sure they have enough water, mulch, light fertilizer and wash off the leaves and stems in the early morning with a strong spray of water at least twice a week. Be sure to get the underside of the leaf. This will keep the roses clean, increase the humidity and will help to control insects before they can cause any damage. Watch your roses throughout the summer. Keep them cool and well watered and they will reward you with beautiful blooms in the fall. Marylou Coffman Rod McKusick --part1_b8.1bc78f3e.28df9a65_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Beverly,
I've found that the life expectancy of roses here in the low desert with out full time shade is only 7 to 8 years. It sounds as if you are doing everything right provided you are watering adequately. If the canes are still green and we don't have too much more of these double digit days the rose should survive.
I'm enclosing an article that I coauthored for the Republic not long ago on summer rose care.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian


                                                                                                                               SUMMER ROSE CARE  

       The summer months are especially tough on roses, however, here are some tips to help them  survive our hot weather.

      Roses need to be watered frequently and deeply. Water at least twice each week, and if they look stressed, water again. Deep watering will encourage the roots to grow deeper and will also flush the salts below the root level.

     Roses in containers will have to be watered several times a week.  As  long as you have good soil, a combination of one-third native soil, one-third mulch and one-third sand, perlite, peat moss or pumice, you'll have good drainage and you won't over water.

       Roses also need to stay cool. Use three to four inches of good mulch around each rose bush. You can use compost, peat moss, forest mulch, straw or bark chips. This will not only keep the root's cool, it will also conserve moisture, cut down on weeds and help too built a good healthy soil structure.

       Roses are heavy feeders and need some fertilizer during the hot
summer. A slow release granular fertilizer works well and usually lasts about six weeks.  Use one-third to one-half cup for each standard size bush. Scatter the fertilizer around the drip line. Water well before and after each application to prevent burning the roots.  You can also use a water soluble fertilizer, such as Miracle Grow, Peters or Magnum Grow, but this will need to be applied every two weeks. In the summer, use  one-half the amount you would normally use. Again, water well before and after applying the fertilizer.

       Roses slow down during our hot months and produce smaller and fewer blooms.  Cut off spent blooms, cut back to the first five-leaflet set, leave as much foliage as possible. The foliage will  help to shade the bush.

       Watch for sucker growth, these are canes that come from below the bud union. They appear different from the other canes. Cut them off below the bud union.

       
        
       The hot dry weather will bring a variety of insects Watch the lower leaves for spider mites. The lower leaves will be lighter and have a fuzzy appearance.  The underside of the leaf will feel like sandpaper.  The spider mites suck the juice from the underside of the leaf. To control them,  remove the damaged foliage and use a strong spray of water every other day. If this does not take care of them, there are several effective miticides on the market.  Remember to read and follow directions on thecontainer.
       
     Aphids are the most common of the insects affecting roses.  They can be green, brown or reddish brown. They suck the juices from the bush and leave a shiney sticky substance on the leaves. To get rid of  them use a  strong spray of water every day.
       
      Thrips are probably the most damaging of the insects.  They are tiny, brownish yellow winged insects. You can barely see them.  They enter the bud and eat on the flower petals, causing them to turn brown.  The only way to control them is to spray the buds before they open with a good insecticide.  Besure to read and follow directions on the package.
       
     Leaf cutter bees will make semicircles in the rose leaves.  They
use the leaf circles  to build their nests. The damage to the plant is minimal, and the bees are important pollinators, so there is no need for control.

       Other problems to watch out for are nutrient deficiencies. The most common is iron deficiency. The leaves will be pale green or yellow with dark green veins. Add chelated iron (FE 138) according to package
directions.

    Nitrogen deficiency is characterized by yellowing of the leaves,  reduced growth, weak and spindly stems.

     With a Potassium deficiency the older leaves will turn yellow and then brown, sometimes purple.  New shoots will harden , stunted  and flower buds may become distorted.

     Phosphorus deficiency will cause older leaves to drop without turning yellow, leaves appear dull grey-green and may cup down.

    Manganese deficiency is similar to iron chlorosis in that there is interveinal chlorosis.  The small veins remain green with a netted appearance.

     Zinc deficiency causes new growth to stop and also causes distorted chlorotic leaves.

     These problems can all re corrected with a good rose fertilizer.
Maintaining a good soil PH of 6.0 to 6.5 is ideal for growing good roses.

     The best way to take care of your roses in summer is to make sure they have enough water, mulch, light fertilizer and  wash off  the leaves and stems in the early morning  with a strong spray of water at least twice a week. Be sure to get the underside of the leaf.  This will keep the roses clean, increase the humidity and will help to control insects  before they can cause
any damage.  
       
     Watch your roses throughout the summer. Keep them cool and well watered and they will reward you with beautiful blooms in the fall.

Marylou Coffman

Rod McKusick


--part1_b8.1bc78f3e.28df9a65_boundary-- From merryquite@hotmail.com Sun Sep 23 20:18:02 2001 From: merryquite@hotmail.com (merryquite@hotmail.com) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 13:18:02 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109232018.f8NKI2P19020@Ag.arizona.edu> i just bought several different bulbs: tulips, daffodils, corcuses, etc. i read in a book that bulbs can be "forced" but also that they must be planted and kept cool--between 35 to 50 degrees F-- for many weeks, 13 to 15 weeks, i think. how can i do that in tempe, arizona, without buying a second refrigerator? From stange@dakotacom.net Sun Sep 23 22:36:21 2001 From: stange@dakotacom.net (stange@dakotacom.net) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 15:36:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109232236.f8NMaLP02303@Ag.arizona.edu> How much should I be watering my Queen palms and what should they be fertillized with and when. From hdougsmith@aol.com Sun Sep 23 22:40:56 2001 From: hdougsmith@aol.com (hdougsmith@aol.com) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 15:40:56 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109232240.f8NMetP02697@Ag.arizona.edu> Help!! I have been in my house for 25 years and have had an on going problem for 24 of those years. In parts of my yard things seem not to want to grow. It tends to be a failure to thrive and or then die. I feel I am fairly knowelagable about plants and through the years I have tried numerous items including Iron, Miracle Groe, Soil Sulfers, Gypsum, Mulch, etc. I deep water for hours at a time but I do not create a swamp. Many nurserymen have offered sugestions which in general are the same ideas whic I have already tried. Just within the last couple weeks I talked to a guy who came to give an estimate on cutting down a tree. He said I had some kind of fungus and that he could treat it at a discounted rate at the same time when he removed our tree. I did not use him for the removal so I hesitate tocall him back for the (fungus). Have you ever heard of a fungus that only affects some trees and some parts of my yard (grass grows real good). Not al plants are affected and the two most obvious are a 25 year old flowering pear which is much smaller than the younger ones in the front yard. I also have a 25 year old olander that is only 5 gallon size (it was a 1 gal. when planted). Last year petunias I planted die already. Two plants don't seem like much but through years I had many plants die. thank you pam smith 602-993-5218 From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Sun Sep 23 23:23:05 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 16:23:05 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palms References: <200109232236.f8NMaLP02303@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <012401c14486$b611a280$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> Use this link to view our publication "Arizona Landscape Palms". http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf This publication contains detailed information on the care of palms. Scott Rogers MG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2001 3:36 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > How much should I be watering my Queen palms and what should they be fertillized with and when. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Sep 24 00:38:04 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 20:38:04 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plants not growing Message-ID: <93.10a7a4fb.28dfda6c@aol.com> --part1_93.10a7a4fb.28dfda6c_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Pam, You said that you are deep watering your shrubs and trees, but how often in summer? Could the trees and shrubs be root bound when they were planted? If so they would not show much growth and would eventually die. Do you have Eucalyptus or Walnut trees in your yard? If so they could cause problems with some other plants. I would suspect that the flowering pear is past its life expectancy. Are you repeat planting the petunias or vinca in the same spot? If so there could be a fungus that is causing the problem. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_93.10a7a4fb.28dfda6c_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Pam,
You said that you are deep watering your shrubs and trees, but how often in summer?
Could the trees and shrubs be root bound when they were planted? If so they would not show much growth and would eventually die.

Do you have Eucalyptus or Walnut trees in your yard? If so they could cause problems with some other plants.

I would suspect that the flowering pear is past its life expectancy.

Are you repeat planting the petunias or vinca in the same spot? If so there could be a fungus that is causing the problem.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_93.10a7a4fb.28dfda6c_boundary-- From tabeauaz@aol.com Mon Sep 24 07:16:58 2001 From: tabeauaz@aol.com (tabeauaz@aol.com) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 00:16:58 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109240716.f8O7GrP21572@Ag.arizona.edu> MY QUESTION IS,LAST YEAR WE BOUGHT ONE OF THOSE SPRUCE CHRISTMAS TREES AT SAFEWAY,WE PLANTED IT IN A POT OUTSIDE AND IT IS DOING VERY WELL.IT HAS GROWN FROM ONE SHOOT TO 4 SHOOTS ABOUT 2 FEET TALL.THE QUESTION IS CAN THIS BE TRANSPLANTED IN THE YARD?WHAT ARE THE CHANCES OF IT GROWING INTO A LARGE SPRUCE?IF IT CAN ARE THERE ANY TIPS YOU CAN GIVE ON THE TRANS-PLANTING?THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME.DAVE KEISER From tabeauaz@aol.com Mon Sep 24 07:17:10 2001 From: tabeauaz@aol.com (tabeauaz@aol.com) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 00:17:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109240717.f8O7GqP21569@Ag.arizona.edu> MY QUESTION IS,LAST YEAR WE BOUGHT ONE OF THOSE SPRUCE CHRISTMAS TREES AT SAFEWAY,WE PLANTED IT IN A POT OUTSIDE AND IT IS DOING VERY WELL.IT HAS GROWN FROM ONE SHOOT TO 4 SHOOTS ABOUT 2 FEET TALL.THE QUESTION IS CAN THIS BE TRANSPLANTED IN THE YARD?WHAT ARE THE CHANCES OF IT GROWING INTO A LARGE SPRUCE?IF IT CAN ARE THERE ANY TIPS YOU CAN GIVE ON THE TRANS-PLANTING?THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME.DAVE KEISER From kyklas1@aol.com Mon Sep 24 17:10:37 2001 From: kyklas1@aol.com (kyklas1@aol.com) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 10:10:37 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109241710.f8OHAbP03348@Ag.arizona.edu> My sister and I inherited a small orchard, less than an acre, several years ago. While we are not able to crank over the old tractor, we can occassionally get help with disking. However, we are over run with johnson grass, bermuda, stickers etc. We also have one particularily obnoxious tree, which has been cut down, but sends up new ones everywhere. I don't know the name of it, but it has thorns on all the branches,(gloves required to handle it), it has small leaves and produced something that resembled a crab apple. It seems to travel along the roots as well to send up new shoots. Is there something that will kill of the weeds and kill of this tree without harming the other trees? Any advice would be very welcome. Thank you, Mary Ann From p23492@email.mot.com Mon Sep 24 17:49:31 2001 From: p23492@email.mot.com (p23492@email.mot.com) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 10:49:31 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109241749.f8OHnVP11832@Ag.arizona.edu> When would be the ABSOLUTE earliest I could plant rye grass for thw winter? I just purchased a new home and the yard is dirt, and I would like some grass to help keep the dust down. Thank you, Monica From bonnie.bauer@honeywell.com Mon Sep 24 20:12:49 2001 From: bonnie.bauer@honeywell.com (bonnie.bauer@honeywell.com) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 13:12:49 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109242012.f8OKCnP14403@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a dwarf orange tree in a pot. I've had it 2 years. There is no saucer under the pot. It's growing great, has 2 oranges on it, but needs to be moved to a bigger pot. Should I do that in the fall, or wait until spring? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Sep 24 20:19:27 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 20:19:27 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] rye grass, when to plant Message-ID: I found this in the archives: "Recommended planting times are when daytime temps are under 90 degrees and night time lows are in the mid 60s which will usually fall in mid October." Rye is usually overseeded on a bermuda lawn; since you don't have bermuda, you don't have to worry about the rye competing with the bermuda while it is actively growing. Check the Master Gardener Manual http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/ chapter on lawns for detailed information about preparing the planting bed, sowing and irrigation. Also, you will probably want to plant perennial rather than annual rye grass. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: p23492@email.mot.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 10:49:31 -0700 (MST) > >When would be the ABSOLUTE earliest I could plant rye grass for thw winter? >I just purchased a new home and the yard is dirt, and I would like some >grass to help keep the dust down. >Thank you, >Monica > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Sep 24 20:28:02 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 20:28:02 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] orchard weeds Message-ID: The tree you describe might be jujube or Chinese date (Ziziphus jujuba). The fruit is edible; suckering from roots can be a problem. You can cut the tree down and treat the stump with Roundup. Have you tried using Roundup to get rid of the grass and weeds. It take 10 days to 2 weeks to kill actively growing plants. Just be careful not to spray it on plants you want to keep (spray on a day with no wind). Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: kyklas1@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 10:10:37 -0700 (MST) > >My sister and I inherited a small orchard, less than an acre, several years >ago. While we are not able to crank over the old tractor, we can >occassionally get help with disking. However, we are over run with johnson >grass, bermuda, stickers etc. We also have one particularily obnoxious >tree, which has been cut down, but sends up new ones everywhere. I don't >know the name of it, but it has thorns on all the branches,(gloves required >to handle it), it has small leaves and produced something that resembled a >crab apple. It seems to travel along the roots as well to send up new >shoots. Is there something that will kill of the weeds and kill of this >tree without harming the other trees? > Any advice would be very welcome. >Thank you, >Mary Ann > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Sep 24 20:38:58 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 20:38:58 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] failure to thrive, soil fungus? Message-ID: Is is possible that the particular part of your yard has a fungus called cotton (Texas) root rot. Plants in the grass family, bermuda as well as plants like palm and yucca, are not susceptible to the fungus. Many native species like mesquite and palo verde tend to be pretty resistant. For a positive dignosis of this fungus, you would need dig up soil and finger-sized roots of plants growing in the area (like the pear). Get a quart or more of soil with living roots included, seal into a ziplock plastic bag and take to your nearest Extension Office to have a plant pathology test done. There is no effective treatment; plant resistant species. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: hdougsmith@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 15:40:56 -0700 (MST) > >Help!! I have been in my house for 25 years and have had an on going >problem for 24 of those years. In parts of my yard things seem not to want >to grow. It tends to be a failure to thrive and or then die. > >I feel I am fairly knowelagable about plants and through the years I have >tried numerous items including Iron, Miracle Groe, Soil Sulfers, Gypsum, >Mulch, etc. I deep water for hours at a time but I do not create a swamp. > >Many nurserymen have offered sugestions which in general are the same ideas >whic I have already tried. Just within the last couple weeks I talked to a >guy who came to give an estimate on cutting down a tree. >He said I had some kind of fungus and that he could treat it at a >discounted rate at the same time when he removed our tree. >I did not use him for the removal so I hesitate tocall him back for the >(fungus). > >Have you ever heard of a fungus that only affects some trees and some parts >of my yard (grass grows real good). > >Not al plants are affected and the two most obvious are a 25 year old >flowering pear which is much smaller than the younger ones in the front >yard. I also have a 25 year old olander that is only 5 gallon size (it was >a 1 gal. when planted). > >Last year petunias I planted die already. > >Two plants don't seem like much but through years I had many plants die. > >thank you pam smith 602-993-5218 > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Sep 24 20:44:30 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 20:44:30 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] palm care Message-ID: Information on palm care is contained in the online palm handout: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021/ Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: stange@dakotacom.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 15:36:21 -0700 (MST) > >How much should I be watering my Queen palms and what should they be >fertillized with and when. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Sep 24 20:54:06 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 20:54:06 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] bulbs Message-ID: Many common bulbs of the northern states do not grow well in the Tucson/Phoenix area. These bulbs do need a period of chill and the only practical way is to buy a second refrigerator. Even then, these bulbs may flower poorly or not at all. The following article gives advice for growing bulbs: http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening/news/articles/8.1.htm Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: merryquite@hotmail.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 13:18:02 -0700 (MST) > >i just bought several different bulbs: tulips, daffodils, corcuses, etc. i >read in a book that bulbs can be "forced" but also that they must be >planted and kept cool--between 35 to 50 degrees F-- for many weeks, 13 to >15 weeks, i think. how can i do that in tempe, arizona, without buying a >second refrigerator? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From millero@worldnet.att.net Mon Sep 24 21:33:49 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 14:33:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] bulbs References: Message-ID: <003701c14540$9be0a9a0$5a52530c@j0r9501> ----- Original Message ----- From: merryquite@hotmail.com > >i just bought several different bulbs: tulips, daffodils, corcuses, etc. i >read in a book that bulbs can be "forced" but also that they must be >planted and kept cool--between 35 to 50 degrees F-- for many weeks, 13 to >15 weeks, i think. how can i do that in tempe, arizona, without buying a >second refrigerator? Following is an article from our October 2000 newsletter that you may find helpful. -Olin Bulbs for the Phoenix Area By Bert Konzal Now is the time to prepare your soil for bulb planting. A little preparation now will produce healthier growth and more beautiful flowers in spring. Bulbs like good drainage and organic matter. It's best to spade in about four to six inches of organic material along with a low nitrogen fertilizer such as 5-10-10 which is rich in phosphorus and potassium. Bulbs need phosphorus and potassium to keep them strong and healthy. Water the area well and allow it to rest before planting your bulbs. With our warm temperatures it is best not to rush mother nature. Buy bulbs as soon as they are available and store them in a cool spot until planting time. The largest bulbs will produce the best flowers. The following favorites do very well in the valley: Ranunculus and Anemone: Plant about November 1st, about 2 inches deep and about 10 inches apart. Plant ranunculus with claws pointing down and anemone with point down. Keep moist but not wet. Daffodils or Narcissus: Plant about November 1st, about six inches deep and about six to nine inches apart. Plant with pointed end up. Dutch Iris: Plant about November 1st, about five to six inches deep and about six to eight inches apart. Tulips: Plant tulip bulbs about around the middle of November, but first you must keep them in your refrigerator for six to eight weeks so they will think they are up North. It's best to store in paper sack, in vegetable drawer. Plant bulbs about six inches deep and about six to nine inches apart. Hyacinths: Plant about November 1st, about six inches deep, about six to nine inches apart. Hyacinths, like tulips, must be kept in the refrigerator in order to have success. Hyacinths do well also in special hyacinth water jars. Freesia: Plant about November 1st, about six inches deep, and about six to nine inches apart. Freesia, like all bulbs, like morning sun and afternoon shade if possible. Gladiolus; Plant about November 1st, about six inches deep and about six to nine inches apart. Gladiolus do well with morning sun and afternoon shade. Petals may burn in the sun especially if corms are planted in December or January. Asiatic Lilies: Plant about November 1st, about six inches deep and about twelve to fifteen inches apart. Do best when they get morning sun and afternoon shade. Amaryllis: Plant bulbs about November 1st to the 15th , require morning sun and afternoon shade. Plant with about two thirds of the bulb above the surface of the ground. The larger the bulb the bigger the flowers. Please note that most of the above mentioned bulbs, corms, or fleshy root do well in containers as well as in the ground. In containers use a good quality potting soil instead of Arizona soil. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Sep 24 21:52:42 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 17:52:42 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Spruce trees Message-ID: <64.13ad3707.28e1052a@aol.com> --part1_64.13ad3707.28e1052a_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If you live in the low desert ( Phoenix area ) there are not any species of spruce that will survive here. Sorry Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_64.13ad3707.28e1052a_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If you live in the low desert ( Phoenix area ) there are not any species of spruce that will survive here. Sorry

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_64.13ad3707.28e1052a_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Sep 24 21:52:44 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 17:52:44 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus Repotting Message-ID: <96.1aa5de06.28e1052c@aol.com> --part1_96.1aa5de06.28e1052c_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bonnie, I would suggest waiting until the weather cools somewhat before repotting the orange tree. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_96.1aa5de06.28e1052c_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bonnie,
I would suggest waiting until the weather cools somewhat before repotting the orange tree.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_96.1aa5de06.28e1052c_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Sep 24 22:11:52 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 18:11:52 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rye Grass, earliest time to plant Message-ID: <83.1076878c.28e109a8@aol.com> --part1_83.1076878c.28e109a8_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The turf grass maintenance contractors are already starting to ready bermuda grass turf for overseeding. It is a little early because the bermuda is still actively growing. When the temps drop below 100 degrees you should be safe in planting rye on bare ground. However be sure to keep the seed moist with waterings four times a day. If the seed drys out you will lose it. Check out this link for info on soil preparation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_83.1076878c.28e109a8_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The turf grass maintenance contractors are already starting to ready bermuda grass turf for overseeding. It is a little early because the bermuda is still actively growing. When the temps drop below 100 degrees you should be safe in planting rye on bare ground. However be sure to keep the seed moist with waterings four times a day. If the seed drys out you will lose it.
Check out this link for info on soil preparation:  http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener



--part1_83.1076878c.28e109a8_boundary-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Sep 25 03:04:43 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 20:04:43 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Vegetable Garden's "tired soil" References: <200109220226.f8M2QsP04775@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BAFF44B.DD5B474A@qwest.net> First I would ask how you determined the lack of productivity. Did you plant in the appropriate growing season? [We have two in the low desert.] Did you plant short season varieties at the appropriate times? What were your cultural practices? [Water, fertilizer, shade when necessary, etc.] Give us some idea what you've been doing over the last 12 months in your veggie patch and, perhaps, our advice could be even more useful than just suggesting some cover cropping. Linda Guy, MG thenetts@aol.com wrote: > I had a very unproductive year with my vegitable garden. I think the soil may be "tired" despite the addition of manure and a little homemade compost. I have heard that you can overwinter rye and then turn it under in the spring. Is this a good idea in our area. Is it winter ryegrass or rye like the grain? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From fziemann@hotmail.com Tue Sep 25 20:19:00 2001 From: fziemann@hotmail.com (fziemann@hotmail.com) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 13:19:00 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109252019.f8PKJ0P21564@Ag.arizona.edu> By what process is it possible, for the Chain Fruit Cholla to keep adding on to the top of the previous year's fruit. In most plants, after the fruit ripens, it falls off, but the Chian Fruit Cholla's fruit does not, it stays and the next season another fruit grows on top. How can this happen? From fziemann@hotmail.com Tue Sep 25 20:19:45 2001 From: fziemann@hotmail.com (fziemann@hotmail.com) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 13:19:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109252019.f8PKJjP21718@Ag.arizona.edu> By what process is it possible, for the Chain Fruit Cholla to keep adding on to the top of the previous year's fruit. In most plants, after the fruit ripens, it falls off, but the Chian Fruit Cholla's fruit does not, it stays and the next season another fruit grows on top. How can this happen? From jac85014@excite.com Tue Sep 25 23:38:52 2001 From: jac85014@excite.com (jac85014@excite.com) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 16:38:52 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109252338.f8PNcqP09784@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like to know more about pruning and caring for China Berry trees. I have 2 that are 5 feet tall and then I have 2 on the west side of the house that are probably 5 years old but are growing from an old stumps. One has 5 stems the other has 2. What do I do cut all but one stem on each side???? From jac85014@excite.com Tue Sep 25 23:39:39 2001 From: jac85014@excite.com (jac85014@excite.com) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 16:39:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109252339.f8PNddP09927@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like to know more about pruning and caring for China Berry trees. I have 2 that are 5 feet tall and then I have 2 on the west side of the house that are probably 5 years old but are growing from an old stumps. One has 5 stems the other has 2. What do I do cut all but one stem on each side???? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Sep 26 00:20:48 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 20:20:48 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning suckers from an old stump Message-ID: <12d.51733fc.28e27960@aol.com> --part1_12d.51733fc.28e27960_boundary Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_12d.51733fc.28e27960_alt_boundary" --part1_12d.51733fc.28e27960_alt_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I would suggest that you prune all but one or two shoots from the stump. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_12d.51733fc.28e27960_alt_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I would suggest that you prune all but one or two shoots from the stump.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_12d.51733fc.28e27960_alt_boundary-- --part1_12d.51733fc.28e27960_boundary Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Received: from rly-yh03.mx.aol.com (rly-yh03.mail.aol.com [172.18.147.35]) by air-yh04.mail.aol.com (v80.17) with ESMTP id MAILINYH41-0925194026; Tue, 25 Sep 2001 19:40:26 -0400 Received: from Ag.arizona.edu (ag.arizona.edu [150.135.40.100]) by rly-yh03.mx.aol.com (v80.21) with ESMTP id MAILRELAYINYH33-0925194009; Tue, 25 Sep 2001 19:40:09 -0400 Received: from Ag.arizona.edu (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by Ag.arizona.edu (8.10.2+Sun/8.11.2) with ESMTP id f8PNe6P10042; Tue, 25 Sep 2001 16:40:06 -0700 (MST) Received: from ag.arizona.edu (Ag.arizona.edu [150.135.40.100]) by Ag.arizona.edu (8.10.2+Sun/8.11.2) with SMTP id f8PNddP09927 for ; Tue, 25 Sep 2001 16:39:39 -0700 (MST) Message-Id: <200109252339.f8PNddP09927@Ag.arizona.edu> X-Originating-URL: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/question.htm To: From: jac85014@excite.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu Errors-To: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu X-BeenThere: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu X-Mailman-Version: 2.0.1 Precedence: bulk List-Help: List-Post: List-Subscribe: , List-Id: Gardening and Landscaping in Dry Climates List-Unsubscribe: , List-Archive: Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 16:39:39 -0700 (MST) X-Mailer: Unknown (No Version) Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I would like to know more about pruning and caring for China Berry trees. I have 2 that are 5 feet tall and then I have 2 on the west side of the house that are probably 5 years old but are growing from an old stumps. One has 5 stems the other has 2. What do I do cut all but one stem on each side???? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener --part1_12d.51733fc.28e27960_boundary-- From RKleespies@aol.com Wed Sep 26 01:49:49 2001 From: RKleespies@aol.com (RKleespies@aol.com) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 21:49:49 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] HELP! Message-ID: --part1_ac.1b5b98a6.28e28e3d_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit We moved into our house the end of last year. I have a two beautiful trees out front and have no idea on how to care for them They both are older adult trees. The house was built in 1945. One is an African Sumac and the other a Bottle Brush Tree. I am looking for information for the care on both of these trees. ie: watering, pruning, diseases to watch for etc.... Any information will be appreciated... Ramona --part1_ac.1b5b98a6.28e28e3d_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit We moved into our house the end of last year.  I have a two beautiful trees out front and have no idea on how to care for them  They both are older adult trees.  The house was built in 1945.  One is an African Sumac and the other a Bottle Brush Tree.  I am looking for information for the care on both of these trees.  ie: watering, pruning, diseases to watch for etc.... Any information will be appreciated...

Ramona --part1_ac.1b5b98a6.28e28e3d_boundary-- From tinodianne@aol.com Wed Sep 26 02:41:46 2001 From: tinodianne@aol.com (tinodianne@aol.com) Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 19:41:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109260241.f8Q2fkP05002@Ag.arizona.edu> We have several Hibicus that have problems fisrt the leaves started to fall off and then the plant within days dried up. The same plant in the same area is fine, I tried increasing water and adding Ironic to the soil. Tried Gysum and still could not save some of the plants. I manage to cut back a few and they are showing some new growth. Some of the plants were 5 years old and some less then year. I at a loss to explain this problem. Help From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Sep 26 14:36:27 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 07:36:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] California fuchsia (Zauschneria or Epilobia) References: Message-ID: <3BB1E7EB.F48F5F92@qwest.net> This is simply the natural habit of the plant. Mine have looked really ragged, too; better if a bit more water, but brittle and rough nonetheless. According to Johnson's Pruning, Planting and Care, they go dormant when temps reach 32F. When dormant, trim all dead growth to ground level [for me this has been a very significant portion of the plants]. Unfortunately, he seems to contradict himself elsewhere in the book by saying to trim in October, hardly a frosty period for us in Phoenix! I usually trim mine in January/February, and whenever the branches break, which is often [God bless our postal carriers who always walk into them!]. They do send out underground runners during the growing [warm] season. Finally, they prefer poor soil. Linda Guy, MG Donald Garnett wrote: > Does anyone have experience with Zauschneria californica? We planted > some on an embankment covered in river rock this spring,and they just > took to it like a fish to water. Grew to some 2 1/2 ft. tall,and right > now still produces bunches of flowers. The hummingbirdsreally go for > it. There isn't really anything wrong with them, although they're > starting to looka little rangy and ragged - the lower leaves have > turned brown, although therest of the plant is green and healthy. My > Sunset Western Garden book indicatesthat this is to be expected, but > the only hint they give to care is that "theynever will become > completely domesticated". My question is whether we should consider > pruning them back a bitwhen they stop flowering to encourage new > growth, or is this a plantthat is better left to its own devices? Can > we expect the plants tobecome completely unruly? Don Garnett From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Sep 26 14:43:08 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 07:43:08 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Wildflowers in flagstaff References: Message-ID: <3BB1E97C.C00D68D3@qwest.net> If I'm not mistaken, the seed heads will produce hundreds of seeds. If you cut off the flower buds before the seeds have a chance to mature, you have not saved the seed. Let the flowers open, mature and dry and then pick them. If you are afraid they will fall before you can harvest, cover in plastic bags after the flower has bloomed. Check out the section of the Master Gardener Manual on sexual propogation at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/propagation/sexual.html Linda Guy, MG R2BESHON@aol.com wrote: > i have cut the flower buds from my shasta daisies and brown eyed susans and > let > them dry. can i then plant the dried buds to propagate them? appreciate your > advise. thanks in flag. From JFilmans@aol.com Wed Sep 26 14:48:11 2001 From: JFilmans@aol.com (JFilmans@aol.com) Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 07:48:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109261448.f8QEmBP16768@Ag.arizona.edu> We have had a queen palm for 16 years. This year it's fronds have turned yellow and have dried up. Is there something we can do to save this tree? What have we done wrong this year? We fertilize and water regularly. From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Sep 26 14:51:23 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 07:51:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Strelitzia reginea References: <200108051305.f75D5Yr05063@Ag.arizona.edu> <3B732F90.4E4DF813@qwest.net> <001a01c1417d$97fc5b20$2100a8c0@futureone> Message-ID: <3BB1EB6B.4466D041@qwest.net> Juanita, First of all, you'll remember that they bloom best when they are very crowded. So thinning is not recommended often, particularly when you want the blooms. You might expect the flowering to be substantially off in the year following division. Secondly, they are frost sensitive, so I wouldn't do the division in the cool season; they are slow to recover from this as well. I think I'd wait until after the plant's heaviest bloom period, which I believe is through the spring, then divide. Unfortunately, I can't find a reference with specific guidance on this question. They are heavy feeders, so help them reestablish themselves with a regular fertilizing schedule. There is some general guidance on division in the asexual propagation section of the Master Gardener Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/propagation/asexual.html Linda Guy, MG juanita wrote: > Dear Ms. Guy > > thank you for your reply concerning my strelitizia reginea. Now could I > possibly cut this large clump down to the ground without hurting it. > This plant has been at this house since may be 1992 and it has grown and > produced very well but it is out growing the space provided. > > I cut some of these blooms and use them in floral arrangements, so I really > enjoy this plant. > > If you have any suggestions for fall plants for my gardens. I would so > appreciate any suggestions. I am an East coast gardener and am baffled by > this climate. > > Sincerely, > Juanita Tryon From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Sep 26 14:56:56 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 07:56:56 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Black Widow Control References: <200109212305.f8LN5QP10190@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BB1ECB8.62062E57@qwest.net> Here are some links on the subject from the UA http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/spiders/blackwidows.html http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/widow.htm I hope they are of use to you. Linda Guy, MG NCP25@qwest.net wrote: > I'm having a problem with black-widow spiders. They are hanging out on the ceiling of the overhang over the front door, also in the rock waterfall area, and we find them crawling on the carpet inside the house. What can we do? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From asnitker-myers@arrow.com Wed Sep 26 15:35:09 2001 From: asnitker-myers@arrow.com (asnitker-myers@arrow.com) Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 08:35:09 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109261535.f8QFZ9P25180@Ag.arizona.edu> Do you know where I can get a Canary Island Date Palm tree? What are some good places in the Phoenix area to get them? From mleuck@pin-ed.com Wed Sep 26 16:40:30 2001 From: mleuck@pin-ed.com (mleuck@pin-ed.com) Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 09:40:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109261640.f8QGeTP09300@Ag.arizona.edu> How do I handle white flies in the garden? I am begining to see many around my herbs and vegetables. Thank you From reuterkc@netscape.net Wed Sep 26 19:06:21 2001 From: reuterkc@netscape.net (reuterkc@netscape.net) Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 12:06:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109261906.f8QJ6LP12721@Ag.arizona.edu> Is the milkweed bug considered an economic pest in an urban setting? If so, what kind of damage can you expect and to what host plants? From dickcarmi@aol.com Wed Sep 26 21:13:44 2001 From: dickcarmi@aol.com (dickcarmi@aol.com) Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 14:13:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109262113.f8QLDiP18432@Ag.arizona.edu> Where can I get information that details pruning of specific plants. i.e. olenander. When to prune and how. Are these to be cut way back or just to maintain the size and shape. Also many others shrubs, ground cover and vines. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Sep 26 22:15:53 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 22:15:53 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning Message-ID: One good source for pruning information is Eric Johnson's book "Pruning, Planting, and Care". Your local library probably has it, as well as many bookstores. His advice for oleander: Prune during warm weather. Do not prune into globes or squares. Avoid shearing. The book also has excellent sections with illustrations and photos to demonstrate. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: dickcarmi@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 14:13:44 -0700 (MST) > >Where can I get information that details pruning of specific plants. i.e. >olenander. When to prune and how. Are these to be cut way back or just to >maintain the size and shape. Also many others shrubs, ground cover and >vines. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Sep 26 22:24:48 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 22:24:48 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] milkweed bug Message-ID: I don't find 'milkweed bug' in the references. Are you asking about the yellow aphids that are often found on milkweed? Please give us more information about the bug. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: reuterkc@netscape.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 12:06:21 -0700 (MST) > >Is the milkweed bug considered an economic pest in an urban setting? If >so, what kind of damage can you expect and to what host plants? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Sep 26 22:33:39 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 22:33:39 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] whiteflies Message-ID: check out this website for information on whiteflies: http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/insects/whiteflies.html "The control method that has been shown to be most effective to date for homeowners is a spray of detergent and water. Because this mix may harm certain plants, it is best to start with one teaspoon of liquid detergent per gallon of water and spray a few leaves. Wait at least twelve hours, and check the plant. If there are no signs of wilting or burning, go ahead and spray the whole plant. If the plant seems to tolerate the low dose, the next time you may want to gradually increase the dosage per gallon with each spray, up to 2 tablespoons per gallon. Make sure to cover the underside of leaves where the immatures are hidden. Repeat every three to four days as needed. Lawn and garden supply stores will carry soap and/or oil sprays that require little or no mixing. Whiteflies may be excluded from garden beds using polyethylene row covers. Whitefly numbers should decrease naturally as the weather becomes cooler. You may want to delay planting fall vegetable gardens and annual flower beds until the second week in October, or until the whitelfy numbers have dropped off." Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: mleuck@pin-ed.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 09:40:30 -0700 (MST) > >How do I handle white flies in the garden? > >I am begining to see many around my herbs and vegetables. > >Thank you > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Sep 26 22:59:05 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 18:59:05 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oleanders, pruning Message-ID: <9.1c0cf808.28e3b7b9@aol.com> --part1_9.1c0cf808.28e3b7b9_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Oleanders are a tough plant and can handle almost anything in the way of pruning. I have cut them all the way to the ground and they have come back strong. However I am not recommending you do this." Pruning, Planting and Care " by Eric Johnson recommends pruning in warm weather. I like to prune them in the fall so that they will have started their growth during the winter and be ready to bloom in the spring. You do run the risk of exposing the new growth to frost burn if we have a cold winter. The above referenced book is an excellent resource for pruning and care of most of the plants that grow here in the low desert. There is an excellent section on pruning in the Arborculture chapter in the Master Gardener Manual at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_9.1c0cf808.28e3b7b9_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Oleanders are a tough plant and can handle almost anything in the way of pruning. I have cut them all the way to the ground and they have come back strong. However I am not recommending you do this." Pruning, Planting and Care " by Eric Johnson recommends pruning in warm weather. I like to prune them in the fall so that they will have started their growth during the winter and be ready to bloom in the spring. You do run the risk of exposing the new growth to frost burn if we have a cold winter.
The above referenced book is an excellent resource for pruning and care of most of the plants that grow here in the low desert.
There is an excellent section on pruning in the Arborculture chapter in the Master Gardener Manual at:  http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/index.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_9.1c0cf808.28e3b7b9_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Sep 26 22:59:08 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 18:59:08 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Canary Island Date Palm, locating Message-ID: <17.1c1dd036.28e3b7bc@aol.com> --part1_17.1c1dd036.28e3b7bc_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I would suggest letting your fingers do the walking and check with several nurseries. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_17.1c1dd036.28e3b7bc_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I would suggest letting your fingers do the walking and check with several nurseries.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_17.1c1dd036.28e3b7bc_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Sep 26 22:59:12 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 18:59:12 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tree Care Message-ID: <92.1ac30d8c.28e3b7c0@aol.com> --part1_92.1ac30d8c.28e3b7c0_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ramona, I'm answering both the email sent to me as well as that to Arid Gardener. Most mature trees grown here in the low desert if they are well adapted will have a long life expectancy provided they have adequate water. Lack of adequate water will cause the tree to become stressed which leaves the tree open to attack by insects and diseases. When you irrigate always DEEP WATER which means the water should penetrate to a depth of at least three feet throughout the entire root zone. The African Sumac as well as the Bottlle Tree will do fine on a two week watering interval in summer, double this to four weeks during winter. For more information check out the Chapter on Arborculture in the Master Gardener Manual which is found at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_92.1ac30d8c.28e3b7c0_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ramona,
I'm answering both the email sent to me as well as that to Arid Gardener. Most mature trees grown here in the low desert if they are well adapted will have a long life expectancy provided they have adequate water. Lack of adequate water will cause the tree to become stressed which leaves the tree open to attack by insects and diseases.
When you irrigate always DEEP WATER which means the water should penetrate to a depth of at least three feet throughout the entire root zone. The African Sumac as well as the Bottlle Tree will do fine on a two week watering interval in summer, double this to four weeks during winter.
For more information check out the Chapter on Arborculture in the Master Gardener Manual which is found at:  http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/index.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_92.1ac30d8c.28e3b7c0_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Sep 26 22:59:10 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 18:59:10 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palms with yellow fronds Message-ID: --part1_a.1337870b.28e3b7be_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It is normal for the lower fronds on palm trees to yellow and turn brown. Palms and especially queen palms require a special fertilizer which should be applied at least three times a year. Since queen palms are not well adapted to our low desert envirement we must be sure that they are irrigated and fertilized adequately. Check out this link which provides info on palm tree care: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_a.1337870b.28e3b7be_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It is normal for the lower fronds on palm trees to yellow and turn brown.
Palms and especially queen palms require a special fertilizer which should be applied at least three times a year. Since queen palms are not well adapted to our low desert envirement we must be sure that they are irrigated and fertilized adequately.  Check out this link which  provides info on palm tree care:  http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist


--part1_a.1337870b.28e3b7be_boundary-- From bcvoax@aol.com Wed Sep 26 23:04:00 2001 From: bcvoax@aol.com (bcvoax@aol.com) Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 16:04:00 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109262304.f8QN40P10995@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a fruitless olive tree which is about six years old and for the first time it has olives on one-half of the tree. Is there something I can spray on the tree to prevent it from having olives next year? Thank you From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Sep 26 23:34:14 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 19:34:14 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Olive tree spray Message-ID: <6b.1b3737c0.28e3bff6@aol.com> --part1_6b.1b3737c0.28e3bff6_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Olive Stop is one of several preparations that are suposed to keep the olive trees from fruiting, however care must be taken to apply the spray at the right time. Many nurseries wil carry a product that will do the job. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_6b.1b3737c0.28e3bff6_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Olive Stop is one of several preparations that are suposed to keep the olive trees from fruiting, however care must be taken to apply the spray at the right time. Many nurseries wil carry a product that will do the job.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener

--part1_6b.1b3737c0.28e3bff6_boundary-- From marymei@attglobal.net Thu Sep 27 02:56:52 2001 From: marymei@attglobal.net (marymei@attglobal.net) Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 19:56:52 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109270256.f8R2uqP28065@Ag.arizona.edu> How do I prune Fairy Dusters and Bouginvea? From unrouly@aol.com Thu Sep 27 14:38:08 2001 From: unrouly@aol.com (unrouly@aol.com) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 07:38:08 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109271438.f8REc8P07383@Ag.arizona.edu> My front yard in Lake Havasu is mainly lanscape rock and a few plants. Is there a pre-emergent that I can use to get rid of the weeds before they come out, if so, what kind and what time of year should it be used. Thanks for any information you can give me. Ken From sjbass@qwest.net Thu Sep 27 14:52:04 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 07:52:04 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Preemergents References: <200109271438.f8REc8P07383@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3BB33D14.D38BB694@qwest.net> Here is a response to a similar question from fellow MG Rod McKusick: "For a preemergent weed killer to be most effective it should be applied twice a year, once in the fall to keep winter weeds from sprouting and again in late winter for the summer weeds. I target mid October to mid November in the fall and mid February to mid March in the spring. I try to apply the preemergent before a rain if possible to wash the chemical into the soil. This needs to happen with in three weeks since most preemergents lose effectiveness after three weeks." One product that is available is Surflan. For more further information on weed control you can go to the following link http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/lawns/weed.html. Sue Bass Master Gardener unrouly@aol.com wrote: > My front yard in Lake Havasu is mainly > lanscape rock and a few plants. Is there > a pre-emergent that I can use to get rid of > the weeds before they come out, if so, what > kind and what time of year should it be used. > Thanks for any information you can give me. > > Ken > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From kenbaker@qwest.net Thu Sep 27 15:30:22 2001 From: kenbaker@qwest.net (kenbaker@qwest.net) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 08:30:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109271530.f8RFUMP15269@Ag.arizona.edu> There are four mesquite trees (probably Chilean) in my front yard that are dying out. Southwest exposure. They are mature, probably have been there for 10-15 years. There is no irrigation going to them. They get deep-watering via a garden hose a few times during the summer months. No sign of insect infestation. One tree has half deadwood. Any suggestions? Thank you. From kkturner@srpnet.com Thu Sep 27 17:55:31 2001 From: kkturner@srpnet.com (kkturner@srpnet.com) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 10:55:31 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109271755.f8RHtVP14478@Ag.arizona.edu> My 3 year old Thompson Seedless grapes only produce grapes smaller than peas. What do I need to do to produce a 'bunch of grapes'? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Sep 27 21:21:48 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 17:21:48 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite Trees dying Message-ID: <116.54a8ccd.28e4f26c@aol.com> --part1_116.54a8ccd.28e4f26c_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Here in the low desert we have had four or five extremely dry and hot summers. I suspect that your trees are dying from lack of regular water. The water table may be dropping because of the drought conditions where the trees are located. I would suggest watering to a depth of from 3 to 5 feet deep which means you will have to let the hose run 24 to 48 hours. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_116.54a8ccd.28e4f26c_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Here in the low desert we have had four or five extremely dry and hot summers. I suspect that your trees are dying from lack of regular water. The water table may be dropping because of the drought conditions where the trees are located. I would suggest watering to a depth of from 3 to 5 feet deep which means you will have to let the hose run 24 to 48 hours.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist

--part1_116.54a8ccd.28e4f26c_boundary-- From lbradley@sisna.com Fri Sep 28 01:54:15 2001 From: lbradley@sisna.com (Lucy Bradley) Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 18:54:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plant sale in Tucson 10/12 - 10/14 Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20010927185315.01cc3898@mail.sisna.com> --=====================_21095784==_ Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="=====================_21095784==_.ALT" --=====================_21095784==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable The Southern Arizona chapter California Rare Fruit Growers is having a fund= =20 raiser plant sale on October 12, 13 and 14. It appears to be a great opportunity to pick up some unusual plants and bamboo. If you just happen to be in the Tucson area or have friends traveling or living there, do them a favor and alert them to the club's first plant sale. October 12, 13, 14 Friday & Saturday 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM Sunday 9 AM til noon (River Road east of Campbell Ave, just before Hacienda del Sol) 2450 East River Road, Tucson PLANTS! AN IMPORTANT SALE three days, a dozen independent growers and you The Tierra Seca Chapter of the American Bamboo Society, The Tucson Chapter of the California Rare Fruit Growers Association and your independent, local growers on hand to answer questions. Offering plants of many types including the new and unusual -- native =B7 exotic =B7 landscape =B7 container =B7 cacti =B7 bamboo =B7= agaves =B7 cycads plants for bonsai =B7 shrubs =B7 trees =B7 tropicals =B7Adeniums, and more River Road Nursery Sponsored by: Phone 577-6255 for more information --=====================_21095784==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable The Southern Arizona chapter California Rare Fruit Growers is having a fund raiser plant sale on October 12,
13 and 14. It appears to be a great opportunity
to pick up some unusual plants and bamboo.

If you just happen to be in the Tucson area or have friends traveling or
living there, do them a favor and alert them to the club's first
plant sale.

October 12, 13, 14
Friday & Saturday 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM
Sunday 9 AM til noon
(River Road east of Campbell Ave, just before Hacienda del Sol)
2450 East River Road, Tucson
PLANTS! AN IMPORTANT SALE
three days, a dozen independent growers and you
The Tierra Seca Chapter of the American Bamboo Society,
The Tucson Chapter of the California Rare Fruit Growers Association
and your independent, local growers on hand to answer questions.
Offering plants of many types including the new and unusual --
native =B7 exotic =B7 landscape =B7 container =B7 cacti =B7 bamboo =B7= agaves =B7 cycads
plants for bonsai =B7 shrubs =B7 trees =B7 tropicals =B7Adeniums, and= more
River Road Nursery
Sponsored by:
Phone 577-6255 for more information
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Thank You _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener --------------801C49A739BB514E0FC5A9FB-- From epharp@att.net Fri Sep 28 17:50:49 2001 From: epharp@att.net (epharp@att.net) Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 10:50:49 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109281750.f8SHonP29448@Ag.arizona.edu> I have growing an ornamental pepper plant outside in a sunny area. It has small (1/2") fruit that starts purple and turns red. What do I need to do to have it survive the winter? Thanks. From cenalmor@yahoo.com Fri Sep 28 18:10:56 2001 From: cenalmor@yahoo.com (Barbara Cenalmor) Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 11:10:56 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fwd: [Arid_gardener] Dichondra In-Reply-To: <3BB4932C.109C97CC@qwest.net> Message-ID: <20010928181056.9195.qmail@web13902.mail.yahoo.com> --0-84808601-1001700656=:6551 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I found the following on the web (www.blitzworld.com/lawn/index.htm) : DICHONDRA. This grass is for Southern California and Arizona. It has dicot or kidney-shaped leaves. Dichondra can be grown via plugs or from seed. Plant it during the early summer months and use plenty of water to get it started. This cover should be cut from 3/4 to 1-11/4 inches; fertilize it every other month. Barbara Cenalmor, MG Linda Guy wrote: Can anyone assist? > ATTACHMENT part 2 message/rfc822 Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 15:44:42 -0700 (MST) From: ldlinda1@qwest.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When is the best time to plant dichondra grass? Thank You _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener --------------------------------- Do You Yahoo!? Listen to your Yahoo! Mail messages from any phone with Yahoo! by Phone. --0-84808601-1001700656=:6551 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

I found the following on the web (www.blitzworld.com/lawn/index.htm) :

 DICHONDRA. This grass is for Southern California and Arizona. It has dicot or kidney-shaped leaves.

Dichondra can be grown via plugs or from seed. Plant it during the early summer months and use plenty of water to get it started. This cover should be cut from 3/4 to 1-11/4 inches; fertilize it every other month.

Barbara Cenalmor, MG

  Linda Guy <lindaguy@qwest.net> wrote:

Can anyone assist?
> ATTACHMENT part 2 message/rfc822 Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 15:44:42 -0700 (MST)
From: ldlinda1@qwest.net
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page

When is the best time to plant dichondra grass? Thank You

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Listen to your Yahoo! Mail messages from any phone with Yahoo! by Phone. --0-84808601-1001700656=:6551-- From RcDeH@aol.com Fri Sep 28 20:24:47 2001 From: RcDeH@aol.com (RcDeH@aol.com) Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 13:24:47 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109282024.f8SKOlP28591@Ag.arizona.edu> Re; Carolina jessamine I have Carolina jessamina planted on the north side of the house. They have grown to about five feet and I would like to cut them back. How far and when can they cut back to where the leaves will bud out and the plant will grow? Thanks, From lnrosy@ivillage.com Fri Sep 28 23:38:08 2001 From: lnrosy@ivillage.com (lnrosy@ivillage.com) Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 16:38:08 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109282338.f8SNc8P03479@Ag.arizona.edu> We have two beautiful olive trees in our yard. Every year it flowers and gets olives on it, but the olives are so small they're not worth processing. Can anyone tell me what to do to the trees to help the olives get bigger? Thanks for your time and help. Ellen From cbuckh1030@aol.com Sat Sep 29 03:09:09 2001 From: cbuckh1030@aol.com (cbuckh1030@aol.com) Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 20:09:09 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109290309.f8T399P25542@Ag.arizona.edu> How can I start an Ocotillo from a cane or cutting? Also, how can I start oleanders from cuttings? From jcasper487@aol.com Sat Sep 29 16:36:41 2001 From: jcasper487@aol.com (jcasper487@aol.com) Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 09:36:41 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109291636.f8TGafP21696@Ag.arizona.edu> what can you till me about catapilar grass? I heard it takes less water and mowing . I may be interested in it thank you in advance .Joyce From jcasper487@aol.com Sat Sep 29 16:47:42 2001 From: jcasper487@aol.com (jcasper487@aol.com) Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 09:47:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109291647.f8TGlgP22624@Ag.arizona.edu> what can you tell me about centipede grass? does it require less care ? Is it very attractive? From rcsvail@mindspring.com Sat Sep 29 17:15:44 2001 From: rcsvail@mindspring.com (rcsvail@mindspring.com) Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 10:15:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109291715.f8THFiP24600@Ag.arizona.edu> Hi, I am an avid gardener and love a backyard with grass. My question is my Bermuda did not come up to it's full extent. Our trees have grown quite large and the yard is now 70-80% shaded...I know their are many shade grasses out their to try. Last year I planted perrineal rye and wondering if the areas that haven't produced bermuda will effect the growth on the winter grass? Also when should I start seeing the rye coming up?.Last question: I have an area where I took out Bermuda sod and need to know what to use on the ground to prevent the grass from coming in next year?..I would like to make that area an Herb Garden and do not want to deal with the bermuda coming in. Once it takes over it is hard to keep it out...I would appreciate any input you may have. Thank You Avid Gardener From pmbarker0304@hotmail.com Sat Sep 29 19:36:12 2001 From: pmbarker0304@hotmail.com (pmbarker0304@hotmail.com) Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 12:36:12 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109291936.f8TJaCP04541@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a grape arbor, and it was lush this year. Then beautiful midnight blue moths, created beautiful yellow and blue caterpillars which decimated my arbor before I knew it. How can I share the arbor with nature, and minimize plant and fruit loss? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Sep 30 00:07:08 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 20:07:08 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rye grass Message-ID: --part1_fc.ce16f06.28e7bc2c_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Avid Gardener, Perenial rye grass usually can not survive our summer heat and must be reseeded each fall. You might want to try Tall Fescue which is a year round grass that is shade tolerant. To get rid of the bermuda you must eradicate it while it is still actively growing with an herbicide such as Roundup. For the area that you intend to use for an herb garden it may be too late in the season to eliminate the bermuda grass because the bermuda will soon go dormant and then the herbicide will not be effective. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_fc.ce16f06.28e7bc2c_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Avid Gardener,

Perenial rye grass usually can not survive our summer heat and must be reseeded each fall. You might want to try Tall Fescue which is a year round grass that is shade tolerant.
To get rid of the bermuda you must eradicate it while it is still actively growing with an herbicide such as Roundup. For the area that you intend to use for an herb garden it may be too late in the season to eliminate the bermuda grass because the bermuda will soon go dormant and then the herbicide will not be effective.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_fc.ce16f06.28e7bc2c_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Sep 30 00:07:09 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 20:07:09 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Italian Cypress Message-ID: <147.25af175.28e7bc2d@aol.com> --part1_147.25af175.28e7bc2d_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Wanda lee, If your Cypress have turned brown it is probably too late to do anything. Try breaking one of the limbs, if it is still flexible the tree may still be alive, try deep watering it. My question is, are the trees being watered adequately? Check out this link for info on proper irrigation: Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_147.25af175.28e7bc2d_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Wanda lee,

If your Cypress have turned brown it is probably too late to do anything. Try breaking one of the limbs, if it is still flexible the tree may still be alive, try deep watering it.
My question is, are the trees being watered adequately?
Check out this link for info on proper irrigation:

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_147.25af175.28e7bc2d_boundary-- From HRB85373@aol.com Sun Sep 30 04:34:10 2001 From: HRB85373@aol.com (HRB85373@aol.com) Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 21:34:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109300434.f8U4YAP14600@Ag.arizona.edu> Starlings are taking over the woodpecker holes in our saguaros. Any ideas how to get rid of them? (in a town, so can't shoot them!) From Beverlyfz@aol.com Sun Sep 30 15:25:06 2001 From: Beverlyfz@aol.com (Beverlyfz@aol.com) Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 11:25:06 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ants taking off with worms Message-ID: <15.1b7df963.28e89352@aol.com> I bury vegetable scraps around in my raised beds and my lovely red wrigglers happily feast away. Now there are small black ants moving in and working over my beds and I saw one carrying off a live struggling worm. I want the worms but not the ants if they have to take the wrigglers. How do I get rid of these pests ASAP? They are setti