From BJKantor@aol.com Sat Sep 1 01:58:38 2001 From: BJKantor@aol.com (BJKantor@aol.com) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 18:58:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109010158.f811wcQ23348@Ag.arizona.edu> What is the best way to eliminate the cat claw vine? From TL2J@home.com Sat Sep 1 18:02:08 2001 From: TL2J@home.com (TL2J@home.com) Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2001 11:02:08 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109011802.f81I28Q05668@Ag.arizona.edu> WOULD LIKE TO BUY A COMPOST BIN FOR MY BACKYARD IN CENTRAL PHOENIX. WHAT TYPE WOULD YOU SUGGEST AND WHERE SHOULD I PUT IT? From dubal@juno.com Sat Sep 1 19:46:39 2001 From: dubal@juno.com (dubal@juno.com) Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2001 12:46:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109011946.f81JkdQ21655@Ag.arizona.edu> I have several established plumbago bushes. They have done very well and suddenly this summer, parts of them have died. Sometimes more than half of the plant. I am not certain what to do about it. Same has happened to some of my hibiscus, including a white hibiscus that had been previously doing well. Thanks for your help. Lisa From dubal@juno.com Sat Sep 1 19:50:46 2001 From: dubal@juno.com (dubal@juno.com) Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2001 12:50:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109011950.f81JokQ21978@Ag.arizona.edu> Would you be able to tell me where I could have my soil ph tested?? Also, where might I find a gardener who would be able to design four small flower beds so that they have either greens all year round or flowers all year round? Since they are fairly small beds I don't know if it would be worth the while of a landscape architect, yet I want to enjoy these flower beds. I would prefer someone who takes the soil ph into consideration. Is there anywhere I could look for such a person? Thanks Lisa From dubal@juno.com Sat Sep 1 19:53:05 2001 From: dubal@juno.com (dubal@juno.com) Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2001 12:53:05 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109011953.f81Jr5Q22136@Ag.arizona.edu> From dubal@juno.com Sat Sep 1 19:53:52 2001 From: dubal@juno.com (dubal@juno.com) Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2001 12:53:52 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109011953.f81JrqQ22161@Ag.arizona.edu> I just found your link to the ph testing companies. You may ignore that part of my inquiry. Thanks Lisa Duba From millero@worldnet.att.net Sat Sep 1 21:27:58 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2001 14:27:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200109011802.f81I28Q05668@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <003a01c1332d$29357a40$8b51530c@j0r9501> The Skunk Creek landfill in North Phoenix makes compost bins from the city's used trash bins by cutting off the bottom and drill 1-inch holes in the sides. Works as well as the fancy, expensive ones. You turn the thing upside down so it tapers up, then lay the lid on top of it. Cost $5.00 last time I checked. You can keep it in the back yard but if you plan to use it for kitchen scraps, It is a good idea to sprinkle soil over it when it is added to keep flies away. Flies are usually not a problem with yard and garden waste and debris -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > WOULD LIKE TO BUY A COMPOST BIN FOR MY BACKYARD IN CENTRAL PHOENIX. WHAT TYPE WOULD YOU SUGGEST AND WHERE SHOULD I PUT IT? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Sep 1 23:26:53 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2001 19:26:53 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] How should I water when applying fertilizer? Message-ID: <14b.4a34ce.28c2c8bd@aol.com> --part1_14b.4a34ce.28c2c8bd_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Since the feeder roots on a tree are out near the drip line that is the best place to apply the fertilizer. You better hurry with the fertilizer because U of A recommends that August is the last month of the year to apply fertilizer. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_14b.4a34ce.28c2c8bd_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Since the feeder roots on a tree are out near the drip line that is the best
place to apply the fertilizer. You better hurry with the fertilizer because U
of A recommends that August is the last month of the year to apply fertilizer.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_14b.4a34ce.28c2c8bd_boundary-- From Ranger1242@aol.com Sun Sep 2 12:18:57 2001 From: Ranger1242@aol.com (Ranger1242@aol.com) Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2001 05:18:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109021218.f82CIvQ01557@Ag.arizona.edu> I had such a great response from my last question, I thought I would ask another one. I have noticed a white fungus-like growth on many of the prickly pear cactus in the area. What causes this? (my guess is too much water), and how do you control it? and is there any hope of saving one with a serious case of this? Thanks to all of the master gardeners for their answers. From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Sun Sep 2 12:31:09 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2001 05:31:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [Arid_gardener]Cochineal Scale References: <200109021218.f82CIvQ01557@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <001301c133ab$259f36e0$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> What you have is cochineal scale. If left untreated the cochineal multiplies and covers the plant. This is not only an eyesore; it can weaken and kill the host plant as the insect is sucking the plant juices. Here is a link that discusses the different methods of dealing with this pest. http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening/news/azdailystar/fuzz_prickly_pear.html An interesting aside is that after Cortez invaded the new world, he found the Aztecs using cochineal scale as a dye for their fabrics. The red color was not marched by anything in the old world. It soon became Spain's third most valuable export. It is still used as a coloring agent in some cosmetics and beverages. Scott Rogers MG To: Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 5:18 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I had such a great response from my last question, I thought I would ask another one. > I have noticed a white fungus-like growth on many of the prickly pear cactus in the area. What causes this? (my guess is too much water), and how do you control it? and is there any hope of saving one with a serious case of this? Thanks to all of the master gardeners for their answers. From jkarczewski@home.com Sun Sep 2 16:56:15 2001 From: jkarczewski@home.com (jkarczewski@home.com) Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2001 09:56:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109021656.f82GuFQ14748@Ag.arizona.edu> I have five trees that had to be removed because they have died. They lost their leaves and became brittle. Two trees were pine, two were elms and one was a very large Acacia. It looks like the roots rottened away. The roots look like they, the roots, turned to poweder and are yellow in appearance. I would like to get some professional help but don't know where to get such help. I am reluctant to replant without determining what caused the loss of these trees. Thanks From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Sep 2 19:46:29 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2001 15:46:29 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Trees, several have died Message-ID: <26.1ab88d8b.28c3e695@aol.com> --part1_26.1ab88d8b.28c3e695_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit With the loss of several trees there may be a pathogen involved, but the first thing I would suggest that you check out is proper irrigation at this site: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html If the irrigation is ok then take root samples ( 6 to 8 inches long by finger size, do not wash, and as fresh as possible ) to Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for an examination. Texas Root Rot could be the culprit. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_26.1ab88d8b.28c3e695_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit With the loss of several trees there may be a pathogen involved, but the
first thing I would suggest that you check out is proper irrigation at this
site: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html
If the irrigation is ok then take  root samples ( 6 to 8 inches long by
finger size, do not wash, and as fresh as possible ) to Maricopa County
Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040  for an examination.
Texas Root Rot could be the culprit.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist

--part1_26.1ab88d8b.28c3e695_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Sep 2 20:57:29 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2001 16:57:29 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit tree died Message-ID: <160.2fb7f5.28c3f739@aol.com> --part1_160.2fb7f5.28c3f739_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit With 5 pounds of fertilizer each application you may be applying too much fertilizer to the grapefruit tree. Since you didn't tell us what chemical analysis I can't be sure. University of Arizona recommends applying 5 pounds of actual nitrogen per year to grapefruiut trees in three applications. For other citrus trees the amount is doubled. If the fertilizer you used contained 21% nitrogen then you should apply approximately 2 pounds per application. If the N content was 10%, 3.3 pounds should be applied. If this were the case I doubt if the over application by itself would kill the tree. That leaves irrigation as suspect, however once per week in summer sounds ok. To be sure check out this site for proper irrigation advice: www.ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151 A rapid colapse of a tree is one of the symptoms of Texas Root Rot, however most of the citrus planted in Arizona have been grafted on sour orange root stock which is resistant to TRR. This doesn't mean that the tree is immune but TRR is not often found on citrus here in the low desert. A root sample would help in making a determination, bring a 6 to 8 inch long by finger size root sample, unwashed and as fresh as possible to Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for an examination. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_160.2fb7f5.28c3f739_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit With 5 pounds of fertilizer each application you may be applying too much
fertilizer to the grapefruit tree. Since you didn't tell us what chemical
analysis I can't be sure. University of Arizona  recommends applying 5 pounds
of actual nitrogen per year to grapefruiut trees in three applications. For
other citrus trees the amount is doubled. If the fertilizer you used
contained 21% nitrogen  then you should apply approximately 2 pounds per
application. If the N content was 10%, 3.3 pounds should be applied. If this
were the case I doubt if the over application by itself would kill the tree.
That leaves irrigation as suspect, however once per week in summer sounds ok.
To be sure check out this site for proper irrigation advice:  
www.ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151

A rapid colapse of a tree is one of the symptoms of Texas Root Rot, however
most of the citrus planted in Arizona have been grafted on sour orange root
stock which is resistant to TRR. This doesn't mean that the tree is immune
but TRR is not often found on citrus here in the low desert. A root sample
would help in making a determination, bring a 6 to 8 inch long by finger size
root sample, unwashed and as fresh as possible to Maricopa County Cooperative
Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for an examination.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_160.2fb7f5.28c3f739_boundary-- From jmortimer111@cybertrails.com Mon Sep 3 01:20:34 2001 From: jmortimer111@cybertrails.com (jmortimer111@cybertrails.com) Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2001 18:20:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109030120.f831KYQ27232@Ag.arizona.edu> What is the most effective weed killer spray for graveled surfaces in Surprise, AZ? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Sep 3 16:23:46 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 12:23:46 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Weed killer for gravel surfaces Message-ID: <67.192f4b94.28c50892@aol.com> --part1_67.192f4b94.28c50892_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit A preemergent herbicide such as Surflan applied twice a year in October November and February March will help to prevent the weeds from sprouting. For ACTIVELY growing weeds glyphosate ( Roundup ) has done a good job for me. I emphasized actively because the best time to apply a herbicide to weeds is a few days after a rain and the best kill will be when the weeds are young. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_67.192f4b94.28c50892_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit A preemergent  herbicide such as Surflan applied twice a year in October
November and February March will help to prevent the weeds from sprouting.
For ACTIVELY growing weeds glyphosate ( Roundup ) has done a good job for me.
I emphasized actively because the best time to apply a herbicide to weeds is
a few days after a rain and the best kill will be when the weeds are young.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_67.192f4b94.28c50892_boundary-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Sep 3 16:48:58 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2001 09:48:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ripe Cantaloupes Message-ID: <3B93B47A.480D6050@qwest.net> Here's another point of view for one of our UA specialists......hope you have good eating! My vegetable professor always said that as the cantaloupe ripens, the color of the rind (not the brown netting that is on the fruit) will turn from green to orange. So, I always turn the fruit over, and inspect the rind on the side of the fruit that is touching the ground. If it is greenish, wait. If it is orangish, eat the fruit today! Linda Guy, MG From RkBetu@aol.com Mon Sep 3 17:22:35 2001 From: RkBetu@aol.com (RkBetu@aol.com) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 13:22:35 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [Arid_gardener]Cochineal Scale Message-ID: In a message dated 9/2/01 5:31:48 AM, srogerssprint5@earthlink.net writes: << An interesting aside is that after Cortez invaded the new world, he found the Aztecs using cochineal scale as a dye for their fabrics. The red color was not marched by anything in the old world. It soon became Spain's third most valuable export. It is still used as a coloring agent in some cosmetics and beverages. >> Just curious, how in the world did/do they harvest the scale? I had some on some of my smaller cacti this year, at least I assume that's what it was as it produced a red smear when smashed. So far, I've been just hosing it off - seems to work fine. Rocki From KRNinPhx@hotmail.com Mon Sep 3 17:58:18 2001 From: KRNinPhx@hotmail.com (KRNinPhx@hotmail.com) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 10:58:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109031758.f83HwIQ13326@Ag.arizona.edu> From KRNinPhx@hotmail.com Mon Sep 3 17:59:13 2001 From: KRNinPhx@hotmail.com (KRNinPhx@hotmail.com) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 10:59:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109031759.f83HxDQ13431@Ag.arizona.edu> My queen palms always appear burned or dried up. Do I need more or less water? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Sep 3 18:10:53 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 14:10:53 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palms with brown fronds Message-ID: <123.4313965.28c521ad@aol.com> --part1_123.4313965.28c521ad_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The heat and the drying winds have a lot to do with the looks of queen palms in the summer here in the low desert. Extremely important is proper irrigation and fertilization. Queen palms should be fertilizede three to four times per year with a special palm fertilizer and DEEP watered perioidically. Check out the U of A bulletin on Palm Tree Care on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_123.4313965.28c521ad_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The heat and the drying winds have a lot to do with the looks of queen palms
in the summer here in the low desert. Extremely important is proper
irrigation and fertilization. Queen palms should be fertilizede three to four
times per year with a special palm fertilizer and DEEP watered perioidically.
Check out the U of A bulletin on Palm Tree Care on line at:  
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_123.4313965.28c521ad_boundary-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Sep 3 18:29:14 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2001 11:29:14 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Foxtails References: <200108250239.f7P2d6522606@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B93CBFA.F8601A9D@qwest.net> You could use a systemic [Finale, Roundup] on the weeds as they actively grow. It impacts the plants' internal systems but is inert in the soil. To be safe, you might want to keep the dog away for a time. Linda Guy, MG imunana@aol.com wrote: > We have a problem with "foxtails". Our dog keeps eating them. We've done everything we know to get rid of them. They are in a part of our yard that we do not use or maintain. The biggest part of this side yard is dried up with no vegetation, however we have a small portion that continues to grow weeds. We've had to take our dog to the vet numerous times to have these foxtails removed from her mouth and fur. Do you have any suggestions? We appreciate any help you can offer. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From ruthleek@i29.net Mon Sep 3 18:43:06 2001 From: ruthleek@i29.net (ruthleek@i29.net) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 11:43:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109031843.f83Ih6Q17167@Ag.arizona.edu> We are looking for a place to buy, or a pattern to make one of those hand rakes used to smooth and make furrows in a rock lawn. Thanks From emici@qwest.net Mon Sep 3 18:46:52 2001 From: emici@qwest.net (emici@qwest.net) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 11:46:52 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109031846.f83IkqQ17535@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a bottle tree in my front yard that has done well for two years. Yesterday I walked into the front yard and all the leaves were brown. What can I do to help this tree. It is watered everyday on a drip system. From emici@qwest.net Mon Sep 3 18:47:32 2001 From: emici@qwest.net (emici@qwest.net) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 11:47:32 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109031847.f83IlWQ17675@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a bottle tree in my front yard that has done well for two years. Yesterday I walked into the front yard and all the leaves were brown. What can I do to help this tree. It is watered everyday on a drip system. Mici From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Sep 3 21:08:31 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 17:08:31 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bottle tree with brown leaves Message-ID: <73.127d2ad4.28c54b4f@aol.com> --part1_73.127d2ad4.28c54b4f_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Mici, I suspect that either over or under waterimg has caused the brown leaves on your bottle tree. Good irrigation practice dictates that deep watering the bottle tree only once per week in summer in the low desert is adequate. The water should penetrate to a depth of 3 feet which means that probably your drippers should run for 6 to 8 hours. Check out this site for info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Place a hose at the tree and let it run slowly overnight will hopefully bring your tree back to life. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_73.127d2ad4.28c54b4f_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Mici,
I suspect that either over or under waterimg has caused the brown leaves on
your bottle tree. Good irrigation practice dictates that deep watering the
bottle tree only once per week in summer in the low desert is adequate. The
water should penetrate to a depth of 3 feet which means that probably your
drippers should run for 6 to 8 hours. Check out this site for info on
irrigation:  http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html
Place a hose at the tree and let it run slowly overnight will hopefully bring
your tree back to life.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist

--part1_73.127d2ad4.28c54b4f_boundary-- From azhoms@aol.com Mon Sep 3 23:03:24 2001 From: azhoms@aol.com (azhoms@aol.com) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 16:03:24 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109032303.f83N3OQ20088@Ag.arizona.edu> From azhoms@aol.com Mon Sep 3 23:04:29 2001 From: azhoms@aol.com (azhoms@aol.com) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 16:04:29 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109032304.f83N4TQ20196@Ag.arizona.edu> Madagascar palm What can you tell me about this plant? I have one that is doing pretty well, but would like to more about growth and care. Thank you. From azhoms@aol.com Mon Sep 3 23:07:49 2001 From: azhoms@aol.com (azhoms@aol.com) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 16:07:49 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109032307.f83N7nQ20556@Ag.arizona.edu> twisted cereus Our plant is doing great and actually want to know what kind of care it requires. there are two very tall arms that I would like to remove as it is unbalanced with the new arms coming up, but still shorter than these two major ones. Is it unusual for the arms to flower at different times? This plant is very happy where it is and we love it. Thank you for your help. From sjbass@qwest.net Tue Sep 4 00:32:26 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2001 17:32:26 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Madagascar Palm References: <200109032304.f83N4TQ20196@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B94211A.8FE87BAF@qwest.net> You can view a past response to a similar question on Madagascar Palm care by going to http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-March/000793.html Sue Bass azhoms@aol.com wrote: > Madagascar palm > > What can you tell me about this plant? I have one that is doing pretty well, but would like to more about growth and care. > > Thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From kmillion@lcps.k12.nm.us Tue Sep 4 01:21:35 2001 From: kmillion@lcps.k12.nm.us (kmillion@lcps.k12.nm.us) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 18:21:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109040121.f841LZQ02413@Ag.arizona.edu> My husband and I are wanting to create a large berm around our property. In this berm we would like to put an evergreen tree, such as a pine or cypress. We have sandy soal and are looking for a tree that takes little water. The Afgan Pine or Pinus Eldarica would be perfect except for the fact that they get too tall and would block the view of the mountains for our surrounding neighbors. Any suggestions? We hope to find a tree that ages as nicely as the Afgan Pine. Thank you, K. Million From lankwitz@qwest.net Tue Sep 4 02:44:34 2001 From: lankwitz@qwest.net (lankwitz@qwest.net) Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 19:44:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109040244.f842iYQ09010@Ag.arizona.edu> we have some cape code honey suckle flowers.the leaves are turning brown from the bottom of the plant up some of the leaves are green and very dry and brittle some are brown with the tips burned black. we water them every other day for one four, on a drip systemwe fertilize with vitamin b-1 once a month. we can not see any kind ofinsects what is wrong please. i hope i exsplained t his ok this is the first time trying to do something in this manner. please help From nwlamg@shreve.net Tue Sep 4 14:14:20 2001 From: nwlamg@shreve.net (nwlamg@shreve.net) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 07:14:20 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109041414.f84EEKg02434@Ag.arizona.edu> Do you folks use a evaluation form for your conferences? If so could we have a copy. We are having a conference and would like to have a evaluation form for our attendees. Also would you consider adding our site as a link? We will also add your site if you wish. Please let me know. Ellis Herbst Certified Louisiana Master Gardener www.nwlamg.org e-mail --nwlamg@shreve.net From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Sep 4 14:14:44 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2001 07:14:44 -0700 Subject: [Fwd: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page] Message-ID: <3B94E1D4.F3839B55@qwest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------C4005183731D7E3888AC8C37 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit A more detailed explanation of this gentleman's needs for 'organic' manure...... --------------C4005183731D7E3888AC8C37 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 80036 invoked by uid 0); 3 Sep 2001 19:40:09 -0000 Received: from mail5.uswest.net (63.226.138.5) by phnxpop2.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 3 Sep 2001 19:40:09 -0000 Received: (qmail 55017 invoked by uid 0); 3 Sep 2001 19:40:07 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO mail.nis4u.com) (205.216.140.16) by mail5.uswest.net with SMTP; 3 Sep 2001 19:40:07 -0000 Received: from unionjack [64.24.212.177] by mail.nis4u.com (SMTPD32-5.05) id AC78ED0A00AA; Mon, 03 Sep 2001 12:39:36 -0700 Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 12:36:19 -0700 Message-ID: <000901c134af$b57eed00$b1d41840@unionjack> From: "Don Titmus" To: "Linda Guy" References: <200108310051.f7V0p6Q00864@Ag.arizona.edu> <3B93CD5A.4DD3525C@qwest.net> Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.50.4133.2400 X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Sorry Chemical "free" - no hormones, pesticide/insecticide laced feed or unnecessary injections. I have found that companies call all manure organic, so I wish to be specific... So I'm looking for an Organically run farm in AZ that has cow manure Sorry for the confusion, Don ----- Original Message ----- From: "Linda Guy" To: Sent: Monday, September 03, 2001 11:35 AM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > What is chemical organic manure? I've never heard of the term. > > Linda Guy, MG > > ujgs@4dirs.com wrote: > > > I'm searching for true chemical organic manure here in Az. > > It seems that all the organic milk products come from California. > > > > Call me if you wish 480-962-6353 > > > > Thanks Don > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > --------------C4005183731D7E3888AC8C37-- From daniel.y.chiang@intel.com Tue Sep 4 21:09:40 2001 From: daniel.y.chiang@intel.com (daniel.y.chiang@intel.com) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 14:09:40 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109042109.f84L9eg03385@Ag.arizona.edu> I'm new to the valley and a recent homeowner. I am looking for sources of information on how to maintain a lawn here in the desert. Including when to aerate, overseed, what to overseed with, how much to water, how to control diseases, how to thatch etc. If anyone can provide me with good references (books, websites or just personal experience), it would be great! Thanks Dan Chiang From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Tue Sep 4 21:23:34 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 14:23:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lawn Information References: <200109042109.f84L9eg03385@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <019e01c13587$db0cf0c0$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> A good source of the of information that you are seeking can be found in the Arizona Master Gardeners Manual. Use this link to access the manual http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/ Scott Rogers ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 2:09 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I'm new to the valley and a recent homeowner. I am looking for sources of information on how to maintain a lawn here in the desert. Including when to aerate, overseed, what to overseed with, how much to water, how to control diseases, how to thatch etc. > > If anyone can provide me with good references (books, websites or just personal experience), it would be great! > > Thanks From crollkenneth@hotmail.com Tue Sep 4 21:23:13 2001 From: crollkenneth@hotmail.com (Kenneth Croll) Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2001 14:23:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] no 'maters!! Message-ID: i have many blossoms on my tomato plants but no 'maters!! whats up w/that? i miracle grow them, plenty of water,filtered sun& even mulch. but they just keep growing blossoms that dont turn into fruit. is it due to lack of bees? should i self pollinate? if so how do i go about it?....or are my plants just on stike...like The Attack Of The Non-Killer Tomatoes!! please respond with some kind of clue. thanks,ken~ crollkenneth@hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Tue Sep 4 21:33:36 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 14:33:36 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] no tomatoes References: Message-ID: <01a801c13589$42acd820$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> The blossoms can't pollinate. Temperatures over 90 degrees kill the pollen. Scott Rogers ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kenneth Croll" To: Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 2:23 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] no 'maters!! > i have many blossoms on my tomato plants but no 'maters!! whats up w/that? i > miracle grow them, plenty of water,filtered sun& even mulch. but they just > keep growing blossoms that dont turn into fruit. is it due to lack of bees? > should i self pollinate? if so how do i go about it?....or are my plants > just on stike...like The Attack Of The Non-Killer Tomatoes!! please > respond with some kind of clue. thanks,ken~ > crollkenneth@hotmail.com > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu Tue Sep 4 22:01:50 2001 From: cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu (Carol Noyes) Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2001 15:01:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ethnobotany Symposium Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20010904142900.00ab6380@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_3039123==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Arizona Ethnobotanical Research Association Presents Issues without Borders A Bioregional Ethnobotanical Perspective Fourth Annual Ethnobotany Symposium September 14-15, 2001 at the Coconino Center for the Arts in Flagstaff, Arizona +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Friday, Sept. 14, 7:30-9:30 pm Evening Keynote Speaker: Vernon Masayesva Patuwaqatsi, Water-Life: If The Springs Dry Up Saturday, Sept. 15, 9:00 am to 6:00 pm Dr. Barney T. Burns: The Conservation of Cultural/Environmental Habitats: Recent Efforts in Northern Mexico In Memory of Jerome Jackson: Collecting Navajo Medicinal Plants: An Ethical Approach Janneli Miller: Birthing Practices and Plant Medicines among the Raramuri Women of Northern Mexico Felipe Molina: Yoeme (Yaqui) Ethnobotany: Mexico and Arizona Dr. Enrique Salmon: Bear Dances, Coffee, and Teenage Help: Ethnobotany among the Southern Ute of Colorado Lucille Watahomigie: Yuman Plants and People: Both sides of the Border Plus a variety of hands-on demonstrations and exhibits! Saturday Evening, 7:00-9:00 pm Join us for an evening of Poetry and Traditional Dance with the Hopi Second Mesa/Shongopovi Dance and Drum Troupe ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Cost: Pre-Registration is $40, $30 for students, Pre-Registration is recommended. The day of the event cost will be $50, no discount. AERA Phone: 520-774-2884, email: azethnobotany@hotmail.com For more information go to www.infomagic.net/~fdedera All proceeds benefit the educational activities of the AERA 501 (c) 3 --=====================_3039123==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
Arizona Ethnobotanical Research Association
Presents
Issues without Borders
A Bioregional Ethnobotanical Perspective
Fourth Annual Ethnobotany Symposium
September 14-15, 2001
at the Coconino Center for the Arts in Flagstaff, Arizona

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Friday, Sept. 14, 7:30-9:30 pm

Evening Keynote Speaker: Vernon Masayesva Patuwaqatsi, Water-Life: If The Springs Dry Up

Saturday, Sept. 15, 9:00 am to 6:00 pm

Dr. Barney T. Burns: The Conservation of Cultural/Environmental Habitats: Recent Efforts in Northern Mexico

In Memory of Jerome Jackson: Collecting Navajo Medicinal Plants: An Ethical Approach

Janneli Miller: Birthing Practices and Plant Medicines among the Raramuri Women of Northern Mexico

Felipe Molina: Yoeme (Yaqui) Ethnobotany: Mexico and Arizona

Dr. Enrique Salmon: Bear Dances, Coffee, and Teenage Help: Ethnobotany among the Southern Ute of Colorado

Lucille Watahomigie: Yuman Plants and People: Both sides of the Border

Plus a variety of hands-on demonstrations and exhibits!

Saturday Evening, 7:00-9:00 pm
Join us for an evening of Poetry and Traditional Dance with the Hopi Second Mesa/Shongopovi Dance and Drum Troupe

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Cost: Pre-Registration is $40, $30 for students, Pre-Registration is recommended.  The day of the event cost will be $50, no discount.

AERA Phone: 520-774-2884, email: azethnobotany@hotmail.com
For more information go to www.infomagic.net/~fdedera
All proceeds benefit the educational activities of the AERA 501 (c) 3
--=====================_3039123==_.ALT-- From cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu Tue Sep 4 22:35:36 2001 From: cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu (Carol Noyes) Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2001 15:35:36 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] The How, When, & Why of Grafting for Gardeners Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20010904150547.00abdbd0@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_5065447==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed The How, When, & Why of Grafting for Gardeners A Noncredit Distance-Learning Course offered by the Department of Horticulture, Cornell University, in Collaboration with NRAES Winner of an Educational Program Award from the American Distance Education Consortium Kenneth W. Mudge, Associate Professor of Horticulture, Cornell University -- Course Developer & Instructor Kelly Hennigan, Horticulturist & Instructional Technology Specialist, Cornell University -- Instructor If you'd like to learn grafting but don't have time to attend a scheduled course or don't live near a university, you can now learn this advanced gardening technique on your own time at home. With access to a properly equipped computer an the Internet, you can take The How, When and Why of Grafting for Gardeners (HWWG), a noncredit distance-learning course that includes web-based lectures and quizzes, video demonstrations, hands-on grafting with live plants, and interactive discussions. The course will be of particular interest to serious home gardeners and horticulturists. How to Take HWWG *Check out the course home pate at http://instruct1.cit.cornell.edu/courses/hort494/mg/ for a sample lecture, "Reasons for Grafting and Budding." *Register with NRAES by requesting and returning a registration form at 607-255-7654 or email NRAES@cornell.edu --Only 50 students per class! *Study text- and image-based lectures via the course web site -- on your own time, from any place you like. *Practice hands-on grafting with hibiscus plants shipped to you three weeks before the course begins. *Discuss grafting-related issues with the instructor and fellow classmates on the web-based discussion board. *Test your knowledge by taking multiple-choice quizzes online. *Receive a certificate of completion from Cornell University's College of Agriculture and Life Sciences. When HWWG is Offered *The ten-week course will be offered twice: The first class begins on Nov. 5, 2001, and ends on Jan. 18, 2002 (this includes one week break over the holiday season). The second class begins on Feb. 18,2002, and ends on April 26, 2002. *Plants and other supplies will be shipped to students three weeks before the course start date. Delivery takes approximately three days. Students will be notified via e-mail when their plants and supplies have been shipped. *The course will require about four to eight hours of work per week. Why take HWWG *To develop hands-on, practical grafting skills by successfully performing at least three different grafting/budding techniques: chip budding, T-budding, and top-wedge grafting. *To learn and be able to explain criteria for successful grafting and budding, proper environmental management of grafted plants, and appropriate grafting or budding techniques for different plants and different uses. *To learn principles of botany, physiology of plant growth and development, and principles of environmental management that apply to grafting. Course Prerequisites *A high school or college biology course *Previous gardening experience *Convenient access to a computer, the Internet, and email *Commitment and motivation to undertake serious learning Computer Requirements *Pentium or Macintosh computer with a CD-ROM drive *Internet access -- 56.6K modem or high-speed connection (cable, DSL) *Java-capable browser -- Netscape or Microsoft Explorer, version 4.0 or higher *QuickTime plug-in, version 4.0 or higher (instructions for downloading this free plug-in will be provided). There will be web lectures, Hands-on Lab Exercises, and Interactive Discussions. Last day for early registration discount -- Save $25 if your registration is postmarked by this date! Course 1: Monday, October 1, 2001 Course 2: Monday, January 14, 2002 Last day to register -- All registration forms must be postmarked by this date. Course 1: Monday, October 22, 2001 Course 2: Monday, February 4, 2002 First day of class Course 1: Monday, November 5, 2001 Course 2: Monday, February 18, 2002 Last day of class Course 1: Friday, January 18, 2002 Course 2: Friday, April 26, 2002 NRAES Cooperative Extension 152 Riley-Robb Hall Ithaca, NY 14853-5701 607-255-7654 FAX: 607-254-8770 email: NRAES@cornell.edu Web site: www.NRAES.ORG --=====================_5065447==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
The How, When, & Why of Grafting for Gardeners
A Noncredit Distance-Learning Course offered by the Department of Horticulture, Cornell University, in Collaboration with NRAES

Winner of an Educational Program Award from the American Distance Education Consortium

Kenneth W. Mudge, Associate Professor of Horticulture, Cornell University -- Course Developer & Instructor
Kelly Hennigan, Horticulturist & Instructional Technology Specialist, Cornell University -- Instructor

If you'd like to learn grafting but don't have time to attend a scheduled course or don't live near a university, you can now learn this advanced gardening technique on your own time at home.  With access to a properly equipped computer an the Internet, you can take The How, When and Why of Grafting for Gardeners (HWWG), a noncredit distance-learning course that includes web-based lectures and quizzes, video demonstrations, hands-on grafting with live plants, and interactive discussions.  The course will be of particular interest to serious home gardeners and horticulturists.

How to Take HWWG
*Check out the course home pate at http://instruct1.cit.cornell.edu/courses/hort494/mg/ for a sample lecture, "Reasons for Grafting and Budding." 

*Register with NRAES by requesting and returning a registration form at 607-255-7654 or email NRAES@cornell.edu --Only 50 students per class!

*Study text- and image-based lectures via the course web site -- on your own time, from any place you like.

*Practice hands-on grafting with hibiscus plants shipped to you three weeks before the course begins.

*Discuss grafting-related issues with the instructor and fellow classmates on the web-based discussion board.

*Test your knowledge by taking multiple-choice quizzes online.

*Receive a certificate of completion from Cornell University's College of Agriculture and Life Sciences.

When HWWG is Offered
*The ten-week course will be offered twice: The first class begins on Nov. 5, 2001, and ends on Jan. 18, 2002 (this includes one week break over the holiday season).  The second class begins on Feb. 18,2002, and ends on April 26, 2002.

*Plants and other supplies will be shipped to students three weeks before the course start date.  Delivery takes approximately three days.  Students will be notified via e-mail when their plants and supplies have been shipped.

*The course will require about four to eight hours of work per week.

Why take HWWG
*To develop hands-on, practical grafting skills by successfully performing at least three different grafting/budding techniques: chip budding, T-budding, and top-wedge grafting.

*To learn and be able to explain criteria for successful grafting and budding, proper environmental management of grafted plants, and appropriate grafting or budding techniques for different plants and different uses.

*To learn principles of botany, physiology of plant growth and development, and principles of environmental management that apply to grafting.

Course Prerequisites
*A high school or college biology course
*Previous gardening experience
*Convenient access to a computer, the Internet, and email
*Commitment and motivation to undertake serious learning

Computer Requirements
*Pentium or Macintosh computer with a CD-ROM drive
*Internet access -- 56.6K modem or high-speed connection (cable, DSL)
*Java-capable browser -- Netscape or Microsoft Explorer, version 4.0 or higher
*QuickTime plug-in, version 4.0 or higher (instructions for downloading this free plug-in will be provided).

There will be web lectures, Hands-on Lab Exercises, and Interactive Discussions.

Last day for early registration discount -- Save $25 if your registration is postmarked by this date!
Course 1: Monday, October 1, 2001
Course 2: Monday, January 14, 2002

Last day to register -- All registration forms must be postmarked by this date.
Course 1: Monday, October 22, 2001
Course 2: Monday, February 4, 2002

First day of class
Course 1: Monday, November 5, 2001
Course 2: Monday, February 18, 2002

Last day of class
Course 1: Friday, January 18, 2002
Course 2: Friday, April 26, 2002

NRAES Cooperative Extension
152 Riley-Robb Hall
Ithaca, NY 14853-5701
607-255-7654
FAX: 607-254-8770
email: NRAES@cornell.edu
Web site: www.NRAES.ORG --=====================_5065447==_.ALT-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Sep 4 22:41:48 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 18:41:48 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Correction to email titled Grapefruit Tree Died Message-ID: --part1_ae.1a30e02d.28c6b2ac_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In the above referenced email posted on 9/2/01 I inadvertantly stated that U. of A. recommended annual fertilization of 5 pounds of actual nitrogen per year in three applications for grapefruit trees when the correct amount should have been one pound of actual nitrogen per year. Sorry for the boo boo. Rod McKusick --part1_ae.1a30e02d.28c6b2ac_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In the above referenced email posted on 9/2/01 I inadvertantly stated that U.
of A. recommended annual fertilization of 5 pounds of actual nitrogen per
year in three applications for grapefruit trees when the correct amount
should have been one pound of actual nitrogen per year.
Sorry for the boo boo.

Rod McKusick --part1_ae.1a30e02d.28c6b2ac_boundary-- From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue Sep 4 22:53:24 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 15:53:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] no 'maters!! References: Message-ID: <001201c13594$6c63db40$d452530c@j0r9501> If you live in the Phoenix area, it is still too warm for most tomatoes to set fruit. I have some cherry tomatoes plants under 50 per cent shade that have started to set fruit again but with the current temps as high as 110 deg, that is pretty rare. Usually tomatoes start to set fruit by the end of September if the plants had a good head start. Re bees: Most tomatoes are considered to be self-pollinating because the flowers have recessed styles such that the stigma is inaccessible and honeybees are not a significant factor in pollination. Some heirloom tomatoes exhibit an exerted style that is accessible externally but these are uncommon. Try gently shaking the blossoms early in the morning while the blossoms - this usually helps. -Olin Miller ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kenneth Croll" > i have many blossoms on my tomato plants but no 'maters!! whats up w/that? i > miracle grow them, plenty of water,filtered sun& even mulch. but they just > keep growing blossoms that dont turn into fruit. is it due to lack of bees? > should i self pollinate? if so how do i go about it?....or are my plants > just on stike...like The Attack Of The Non-Killer Tomatoes!! please > respond with some kind of clue. thanks,ken~ From umiller@azdps.com Tue Sep 4 23:34:30 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 16:34:30 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cape Honeysuckle turning yellow and brown In-Reply-To: <200109040244.f842iYQ09010@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: I have a few of these bushes myself and they're doing the same thing but the new growth is bright green and doing well. I water them daily during the very hot, dry season. Also, I'm not sure that Vitamin B-1 alone is sufficient. I give mine general purpose shrub plant food that is high in nitrogen; this routine seems to be working. So if I were you, I'd make sure that the drippers aren't clogged and see if there is new green growth. And consider giving them some regular shrub plant food that contains nitrogen. Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of lankwitz@qwest.net Sent: Monday, September 03, 2001 7:45 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page we have some cape code honey suckle flowers.the leaves are turning brown from the bottom of the plant up some of the leaves are green and very dry and brittle some are brown with the tips burned black. we water them every other day for one four, on a drip systemwe fertilize with vitamin b-1 once a month. we can not see any kind ofinsects what is wrong please. i hope i exsplained t his ok this is the first time trying to do something in this manner. please help _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From angelics_20@hotmail.com Wed Sep 5 02:49:16 2001 From: angelics_20@hotmail.com (angelics_20@hotmail.com) Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 19:49:16 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109050249.f852nGg29103@Ag.arizona.edu> Hello, I was wondering whether you could tell me why the Paper Mulberry Tree's bark is so thin? Is it a requirement that he plant needs in order to survive? Your help would be appreciated Thank-you From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Sep 5 15:21:13 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2001 08:21:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Salvia coccinea References: <10c.4839239.28b9df35@aol.com> Message-ID: <3B9642E9.FEBDB3BC@qwest.net> --------------D00866C837FB34BAD2066C86 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit They are very heat tolerant but still benefit from watering every 4 or so days; I believe you may be overapplying water. They are also a gangly plant that really benefit from pruning after each major bloom. Severe pruning in late February is also recommended. Because of the lanky growth, they do well with other plants or in mass plantings. Mine have always acted as short-lived perennials, but the good news is that they reseed like weeds so that I was never without them. Of course, this presumes some available water, which you appear to have. Linda Guy, MG Namaste78@aol.com wrote: > I have an planting bed filled with Salvia coccinea that has thrived > for over > a year and a half. They have all been dying in the last 2 weeks for > no > obvious reason. They receive regular watering (every other day) from > a > shrubblier and only get morning sun. Is this simply their life > expectancy > and they are dying a natural death? what could be the problem? Any > ideas? > thanks for any feedback. --------------D00866C837FB34BAD2066C86 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit They are very heat tolerant but still benefit from watering every 4 or so days; I believe you may be overapplying water. They are also a gangly plant that really benefit from pruning after each major bloom. Severe pruning in late February is also recommended. Because of the lanky growth, they do well with other plants or in mass plantings.

Mine have always acted as short-lived perennials, but the good news is that they reseed like weeds so that I was never without them. Of course, this presumes some available water, which you appear to have.

Linda Guy, MG

Namaste78@aol.com wrote:

I have an planting bed filled with Salvia coccinea that has thrived for over
a year and a half.  They have all been dying in the last 2 weeks for no
obvious reason.  They receive regular watering (every other day) from a
shrubblier and only get morning sun.  Is this simply their life expectancy
and they are dying a natural death? what could be the problem?  Any ideas?
thanks for any feedback.
--------------D00866C837FB34BAD2066C86-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Sep 5 15:26:56 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2001 08:26:56 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Selling Seed in Arizona References: <200108300015.f7U0FIQ12402@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B964440.4258D6C6@qwest.net> There is an FAQ on the topic on the state's department of agriculture website that will get you started. http://www.agriculture.state.az.us/frequently_asked_questions.htm Linda Guy, MG leoneamerica@azwest.net wrote: > I am interested in starting a seed mail order business. Where do I find the information on the laws in selling seeds in the state of arizona? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From s2@auroranow.org Wed Sep 5 15:48:53 2001 From: s2@auroranow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2001 08:48:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cape Honeysuckle turning yellow and brown References: Message-ID: <3B964965.1ADE93C2@auroranow.org> I'd agree with Ursula here. Mine did the same thing in June when we were so hot here in Tucson, but my new growth seemed fine. Since then, mine has recovered nicely and I only water it every 4-5 days with a hose because it just happens to be off the drip system (but it gets roof runoff from the porch, which gives it a *really* deep soaking when we have had rain--maybe 4-5 times this summer.) Mine gets full hot afternoon sun on a western facing wall, but we're in Tucson and just a tad cooler than the Phoenix valley. I thought I had read in the WGB that these things thrive on neglect. I haven't fertilized/fed mine at all and it's growing like crazy. (I planted it as a small 1 gallon plant in January and it's almost 4'x3' already). Also not a master gardener. -- Sherryl Stalinski ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 ===================================================== "I became convinced we are here for each other." -- R. Buckminster Fuller From nevaux2@yahoo.com Wed Sep 5 16:38:39 2001 From: nevaux2@yahoo.com (nevaux2@yahoo.com) Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 09:38:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109051638.f85Gcdg05609@Ag.arizona.edu> I am designing my backyard landscaping, and have read alot about plants that grow well in the desert southwest. But I was hoping to have a cut flower garden full of blooms that would survive for awhile in a vase of water, and no one seems to write about that. I have already decided to do some roses and tropical bird of paradise, but would like some other suggestions as well. I have several watering zones, with a variety of sun/shade options, so a very versitile environment. Was hoping to do other tropical flowers like heliconia and ginger, but was warned they'd never survive our summers. I live in Glendale, AZ. I'd be happy for any suggestions on plants, and suggested reading, as well. Thanks, Janet From lchristini@aol.com Wed Sep 5 17:08:04 2001 From: lchristini@aol.com (lchristini@aol.com) Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 10:08:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109051708.f85H84g11667@Ag.arizona.edu> I planted a Shamel ash tree about 2 years ago, it is only about 3/4 in dia. Question is:why hasn't it grown? I water it every other day because if I dont,the leaves droop. It hasn't grown 1 in. Know whats wrong? From kbenninger@msn.com Wed Sep 5 17:44:29 2001 From: kbenninger@msn.com (kbenninger@msn.com) Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 10:44:29 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109051744.f85HiTg23568@Ag.arizona.edu> Irisis; Leaves are turning brown @ end of summer, do they need to be cut back now to rebloom next spring? Dug up? From azrigsby@yahoo.com Wed Sep 5 18:05:42 2001 From: azrigsby@yahoo.com (azrigsby@yahoo.com) Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 11:05:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109051805.f85I5gg28234@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a mulberry tree which lost its bark on the east side of the tree and up two of its branches. Those branches have now died from about a foot or two out from the trunk. Is this a disease or an insect infestation? There is no blackening but there is a fine white powdery substance under the bark adjacent to the denuded areas. Thank you for your help. From azrigsby@yahoo.com Wed Sep 5 18:06:29 2001 From: azrigsby@yahoo.com (azrigsby@yahoo.com) Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 11:06:29 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109051806.f85I6Rg28382@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a mulberry tree which lost its bark on the east side of the tree and up two of its branches. Those branches have now died from about a foot or two out from the trunk. Is this a disease or an insect infestation? There is no blackening but there is a fine white powdery substance under the bark adjacent to the denuded areas. Thank you for your help. From PERFLOWERS@aol.com Wed Sep 5 19:21:58 2001 From: PERFLOWERS@aol.com (PERFLOWERS@aol.com) Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 15:21:58 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Garden of Cutting Flowers Message-ID: Janet, First of all, go to your closest library and ask to see their notebook of Gardening Bulletins put out by the Maricopa Co Extension Service. Make copies of any that contain information that interests you. Go to the nurseries and look to see what is flowering that you like - then go home and check in the Western Garden Book by Sunset and see what they have to say about the flowers you like. There is a list of books on the Maricopa Website that pertain to gardening in the Phoenix area. Check them out from the library or buy them if you want to use as a reference book. Go to the Desert Botanical Garden in the spring when the flowers are blooming, see the plants growing around Glendale Library at 59th Ave and north of Glendale Community College and see the grounds around the Maricopa Co Extension Svc at 4341 E. Broadway. Go on the Garden Tours that are held in the spring and see what other people are growing. It is recommended that native plants be grown in the Phoenix area because they are used to our heat, lack of water and the alkaline soil. Cutting flowers can be grown, but it will take lots of water and extra work. There are 2 growing seasons here in the Phoenix area - the majority of the flowers are planted in the fall, starting in September. In the past I have grown African daisies, calendula, snapdragons (they grow year round), larkspur, bachelor buttons, asters, baby's breath, black-eyed Susans, sunflowers, pinks, flax, lupines, hollyhocks, penstemon, scabiosa, 3 or 4 kinds of poppies (not the Oriental, tho), and stock (I had a couple of plants that lasted 3 years). Be sure to get a copy of the Flower and Bedding Plant Bulletin from the Maricopa Ext Svc. Roses do beautifully here and bloom just about the year round if you don't prune them in Jan. There are six Rose Clubs in the area so you can get lots of help from them. You might want to join a garden club or at least go listen to some of the speakers. Check the list of Garden Clubs on the Website. A lot of bulbs do well here also (but not tulips, except if you put them in the refrigerator before you plant them and you know they are only a one-time thing) - iris, amaryllis, gladiola - two of the best spring blooming are ranunculus and anemones. I think you will find plenty of cutting flowers that will grow here, but do your research first and plant things that you don't have to baby constantly. Val From umiller@azdps.com Wed Sep 5 19:33:13 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 12:33:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cape Honeysuckle turning yellow and brown In-Reply-To: <3B964965.1ADE93C2@auroranow.org> Message-ID: Sheryl - I think that you're right about the neglect, but I just can't leave things alone so I feed the cape honeysuckle, too. My three bushes are against a north-facing wall where they get lots and lots of sun and heat. They love it -- even here in hotter Phoenix. Good luck to the person who originally had the yellowing/browning question. It may not be anything to worry about. Ursula -----Original Message----- From: Sherryl Stalinski [mailto:s2@auroranow.org] Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 8:49 AM To: Ursula Miller Cc: lankwitz@qwest.net; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Cape Honeysuckle turning yellow and brown I'd agree with Ursula here. Mine did the same thing in June when we were so hot here in Tucson, but my new growth seemed fine. Since then, mine has recovered nicely and I only water it every 4-5 days with a hose because it just happens to be off the drip system (but it gets roof runoff from the porch, which gives it a *really* deep soaking when we have had rain--maybe 4-5 times this summer.) Mine gets full hot afternoon sun on a western facing wall, but we're in Tucson and just a tad cooler than the Phoenix valley. I thought I had read in the WGB that these things thrive on neglect. I haven't fertilized/fed mine at all and it's growing like crazy. (I planted it as a small 1 gallon plant in January and it's almost 4'x3' already). Also not a master gardener. -- Sherryl Stalinski ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 ===================================================== "I became convinced we are here for each other." -- R. Buckminster Fuller From ricardo@uswest.net Wed Sep 5 23:19:57 2001 From: ricardo@uswest.net (ricardo@uswest.net) Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 16:19:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109052319.f85NJvg02192@Ag.arizona.edu> Wondering what variety of tomatoes and corn might do well in my area. I live in a new in-fill home in vicinity of 13th street & Maryland Ave. The soil is not too good so I have added 4-5 inches of topsoil. It is also under bubblers. The garden is 5'x 30'. Any other ideas on type of veggies for my area? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Sep 5 23:31:51 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 19:31:51 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ash tree, two years old and not growing Message-ID: <153.826c35.28c80fe7@aol.com> --part1_153.826c35.28c80fe7_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Improper irrigation is no doubt most of the problem with the ash tree that is not growing. A two year old ash should do very well DEEP watered once a week in the summer in the low desert. If you are using a drip system it should run several hours in order for the water to penetrate three feet deep. Other things that could cause lack of growth are as folows: Was the planting hole dug two to three times the size of the root ball? Was the root ball root bound when planted? Was the stake that came with the tree from the nursery and tied in multiple places removed and replaced with two stakes one to two feet away from the tree? Have you done any pruning on the tree, the answer should be no except for dead or broken branches. Have you applied a 3 to 4 inch over the root ball? Is there caliche in your soil? Check out this site for info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_153.826c35.28c80fe7_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Improper irrigation is no doubt most of the problem with the ash tree that is
not growing. A two year old ash should do very well DEEP watered once a week
in the summer in the low desert. If you are using a drip system it should run
several hours in order for the water to penetrate three feet deep.
Other things that could cause lack of growth are as folows:

Was the planting hole dug two to three times the size of the root ball?
Was the root ball root bound when planted?
Was the stake that came with the tree from the nursery and tied in multiple
places removed and replaced with two stakes  one to two feet away from the
tree?
Have you done any pruning on the tree, the answer should be no except for
dead or broken branches.
Have you applied a 3 to 4 inch over the root ball?
Is there caliche in your soil?

Check out this site for info on irrigation:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
--part1_153.826c35.28c80fe7_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Sep 5 23:31:52 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 19:31:52 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mulberry tree with borers Message-ID: <6d.19dba8b4.28c80fe8@aol.com> --part1_6d.19dba8b4.28c80fe8_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I suspect that wood borers have attacked your mulberry tree and since they are in the trunk it is probably too late to do anything. You could try cutting off the dead limbs below the dead area and next spring spray the whole tree with lindane at three monthly intervals starting in April. Insects will usually attack a tree that is in a stress condition caused by inadequate irrigation, sunburning, over pruning,old age or damage. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_6d.19dba8b4.28c80fe8_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I suspect that wood borers have attacked your mulberry tree and since they
are in the trunk it is probably too late to do anything. You could try
cutting off the dead limbs below the dead area and next spring spray the
whole tree with lindane at three monthly intervals starting in April.

Insects will usually attack a tree that is in a stress condition  caused by
inadequate irrigation, sunburning, over pruning,old age or damage.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_6d.19dba8b4.28c80fe8_boundary-- From ldlinda1@qwest.net Wed Sep 5 23:52:06 2001 From: ldlinda1@qwest.net (ldlinda1@qwest.net) Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 16:52:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109052352.f85Nq6g08167@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a small fountain and a very small yard. I would like to plant some container plants around the fountain. I like the pennisetum setaceum (cupreum compacta) which is a compact fountain grass. I would like to use xeriscape plants that would be drought resistant. The fountain does get shade in the afternoon from an olive tree but full son until about 3PM. Thank You From rchelpka@qwest.net Thu Sep 6 01:23:44 2001 From: rchelpka@qwest.net (rchelpka@qwest.net) Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 18:23:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109060123.f861Nig20177@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a fungus growing in my irrigated yard. I have tried: digging it out (but it appears to be attached to a woody stump), baking it under black plastic all summer in Phoenix, bleaching it, and using the fungicide daconil. It can look like a slimey snow mound or now in late summer it has a typical fungus crown with rust dust all about nearby foliage. Grass and flower stems grow through it. Nothing seems harmed by it and it does not seem to spread much beyond its area (15"). It grows to about 12"& dia.3-4" tall before I remove it. It always comes back.It is rather hard not soft or spongey. This has gone on for over a decade. Any thoughts? From tuffys@uswest.net Thu Sep 6 02:23:30 2001 From: tuffys@uswest.net (tuffys@uswest.net) Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 19:23:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109060223.f862NUg26088@Ag.arizona.edu> We have a chinese elm that some leaves have turned yellow and most of the bark is comming off. we were wondering why and what do we do about it? The tree is about fourteen feet tall. thanks W&F From LChristini@aol.com Thu Sep 6 03:18:52 2001 From: LChristini@aol.com (LChristini@aol.com) Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 23:18:52 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Ash tree, two years old and not growing Message-ID: <103.89b018c.28c8451c@aol.com> --part1_103.89b018c.28c8451c_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Thanks for your quick response. First off, yea, there is caliche in the soil. The nursery where I bought the tree planted it, so I'm sure they didn't dig deep enough. The root ball was removed, and tree staked with two poles. No pruning was done. I deep water every three days, letting the hose slow drip for about three to four hours till the 3 ft. dia. well is full. If I don't water for two or three days, the sparse leaves will wilt. Now they are turning brown. Anything I can do to save the tree? , other then digging it up? Thanks again, Lou Christini --part1_103.89b018c.28c8451c_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Thanks for your quick response. First off, yea, there is caliche in the soil.
The nursery where I bought the tree planted it, so I'm sure they didn't dig
deep enough. The root ball was removed, and tree staked with two poles. No
pruning was done. I deep water every three days, letting the hose slow drip
for about three to four hours till the 3 ft. dia. well is full. If I don't
water for two or three days, the sparse leaves will wilt. Now they are
turning brown. Anything I can do to save the tree? , other then digging it up?
  Thanks again,       Lou Christini --part1_103.89b018c.28c8451c_boundary-- From sjbass@qwest.net Thu Sep 6 14:33:10 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 07:33:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Purple Plum Tree References: <002001c13682$d9295ea0$3844530c@c6h5r8> Message-ID: <3B978925.C6587A3B@qwest.net> --------------6EC31009DFB9B328C13F5F01 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Joanne: Here is a quote from Master Gardener and Arborist Rod McKusick on a past question regarding a plum tree losing sap: "When a tree starts to lose sap it is a sign that the tree is under stress. Stress can be caused by over or under watering, nearby construction, chemical application, caliche, improper pruning, watering with pool water, planting too close to a mature tree, gophers, air pollution as well as other items. If you can identify the source of the stress and eliminate it your tree will be much happier." I hope these suggestions trigger something for you so you can find source of the stress on your tree. Sue Bass Joanne Mattern wrote: > You helped us a while back with an irrigation problem we were > experiencing. It was very helpful advice, therefore, I'd like to ask > another question. Our purple plum tree has sap on its trunk. What is > this caused from and what can I do to help it?Thanks,Joanne --------------6EC31009DFB9B328C13F5F01 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Joanne:
Here is a quote from Master Gardener and Arborist Rod McKusick on a past question regarding a plum tree losing sap:
"When a tree starts to lose sap it is a sign that the tree is under stress. Stress can be caused by over or under watering, nearby construction, chemical application, caliche, improper pruning, watering with pool water, planting too close to a mature tree, gophers, air pollution as well as other items. If you can identify the source of the stress and eliminate it your tree will be
much happier."

I hope these suggestions trigger something for you so you can find source of the stress on your tree.

Sue Bass
 

Joanne Mattern wrote:

You helped us a while back with an irrigation problem we were experiencing.  It was very helpful advice, therefore, I'd like to ask another question. Our purple plum tree has sap on its trunk.  What is this caused from and what can I do to help it?Thanks,Joanne
--------------6EC31009DFB9B328C13F5F01-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Sep 6 14:55:23 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 07:55:23 -0700 Subject: [Fwd: [Arid_gardener] Dichondra in Pasture] Message-ID: <3B978E5B.5114383A@qwest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------1521B608F297B8B1C3FCD69E Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I've never looked to purchase dichondra. Can someone help Burt? Thanks! Linda --------------1521B608F297B8B1C3FCD69E Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 52247 invoked by uid 0); 29 Aug 2001 03:28:35 -0000 Received: from mail6.uswest.net (63.226.138.6) by phnxpop2.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 29 Aug 2001 03:28:35 -0000 Received: (qmail 1673 invoked by uid 0); 29 Aug 2001 03:28:24 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO hotmail.com) (216.33.237.180) by mail6.uswest.net with SMTP; 29 Aug 2001 03:28:24 -0000 Received: from mail pickup service by hotmail.com with Microsoft SMTPSVC; Tue, 28 Aug 2001 20:28:24 -0700 Received: from 129.219.247.39 by lw7fd.law7.hotmail.msn.com with HTTP; Wed, 29 Aug 2001 03:28:24 GMT Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 03:28:24 +0000 Message-ID: From: "Burt Baker" To: lindaguy@qwest.net X-Originating-IP: [129.219.247.39] Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Dichondra in Pasture Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed X-OriginalArrivalTime: 29 Aug 2001 03:28:24.0509 (UTC) FILETIME=[A90666D0:01C1303A] X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Hello: I would like to know when is the best time to plant dichondra. I have some that naturally grows in my yard(surprisingly in a full sun location) and would like to seed several shaded areas. Thanks, Burt Baker >From: "Linda Guy" >To: wgk-kars@worldnet.att.net >CC: "Arid_gardener" >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Dichondra in Pasture >Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 14:01:18 -0700 > >A few of us discussed your problem while together in a class last night. >We're wondering where you live, because in the low desert of Phoenix, none >of us thought that dichondra would have a chance of surviving in a pasture >environment. Even with >irrigation, the sun and heat would be too much. If used locally in a >landscape, it is employed in small situations in lieu of turf which won't >generally grow in shade. Actually, I remember from my original MG training >that dichondra usually grew where >it wanted to be, never where the gardener wanted it! > >If it is thriving in your conditions, my next question for you is why it >would be a problem? My husband, who had ranchers in his family, thought it >wouldn't be a bad forage material, but also wondered how it could choke out >the existing grasses. He >wasn't sure about its nutritional value, but wouldn't have been as worried >about it as say, johnson grass or jimsonweed. But he wanted me to add that >it's been some time since he worked a ranch. > >There are probably some selective herbicides to apply, but you would >continually be fighting it if, as you say, your irrigation water was >bringing it into the field. Could you share a little more about where you >are, what your needs are from the >pasture, and how big a threat the dichondra is? > >Linda Guy, MG > >wgk-kars@worldnet.att.net wrote: > > > We are having a serious dichondra problem we believe carried through the >irrigation canals onto our land. Most of our neighbors are beginning to >experience this too. What can be done to eliminate this as it is killing >off our pasture? Any ideas? > > Thanks. > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp --------------1521B608F297B8B1C3FCD69E-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Sep 6 15:07:16 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 08:07:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pines/Cypress for low desert References: <200109040121.f841LZQ02413@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B979123.56448F0B@qwest.net> If it must be a pine, you out of luck because most grow to be exceptionally big. Check out the category 'Pinus' at http://www.elandscape.com/lvl/lvl.html?show=-1&order=b&by=p One exception I noted was Pinus thrunbergiana, Japanese black pine, of which I know nothing. As to cypress, you should seek 'cupressus' at http://www.elandscape.com/lvl/lvl.html?show=-1&order=b&by=c These still may not fit your needs. In general, drought tolerant trees will grow faster and larger with regular watering. By installing a berm and flooding, you would be encouraging both. Linda Guy, MG kmillion@lcps.k12.nm.us wrote: > My husband and I are wanting to create a large berm around our property. In this berm we would like to put an evergreen tree, such as a pine or cypress. We have sandy soal and are looking for a tree that takes little water. The Afgan Pine or Pinus Eldarica would be perfect except for the fact that they get too tall and would block the view of the mountains for our surrounding neighbors. Any suggestions? We hope to find a tree that ages as nicely as the Afgan Pine. > Thank you, > K. Million > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Sep 6 15:11:09 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 08:11:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plumbago References: <200109011946.f81JkdQ21655@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B97920D.F2F0E19E@qwest.net> If you share your cultural practices, we can do a better job of advising you. [Frequency of watering, exposure, recent spraying in area, fertilization, etc.] Linda Guy, MG dubal@juno.com wrote: > I have several established plumbago bushes. They have done very well and suddenly this summer, parts of them have died. Sometimes more than half of the plant. I am not certain what to do about it. Same has happened to some of my hibiscus, including a white hibiscus that had been previously doing well. > > Thanks for your help. > Lisa > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Sep 6 15:13:21 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 08:13:21 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cochineal Scale References: Message-ID: <3B979291.6AD534AF@qwest.net> The best I could come up with is that the insects are first dried. http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/insects/cochineal.html Linda Guy, MG RkBetu@aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 9/2/01 5:31:48 AM, srogerssprint5@earthlink.net writes: > > << An interesting aside is that after Cortez invaded the new world, he found > > the Aztecs using cochineal scale as a dye for their fabrics. The red color > > was not marched by anything in the old world. It soon became Spain's third > > most valuable export. It is still used as a coloring agent in some cosmetics > > and beverages. >> > > Just curious, how in the world did/do they harvest the scale? I had some on > some of my smaller cacti this year, at least I assume that's what it was as > it produced a red smear when smashed. So far, I've been just hosing it off - > seems to work fine. > > Rocki > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Sep 6 15:21:27 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 08:21:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hibiscus yellowing References: <200108301843.f7UIhFQ17746@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B979477.73434713@qwest.net> The person who generally handles hibiscus questions is heavily involved in schooling right now and hasn't been available to answer questions very often. Could I suggest you take a look at a website she has sometimes recommended to see if it is of help to you? http://www.hiddenvalleyhibiscus.com/pages/care.htm Sorry I wasn't more helpful. Linda Guy, MG rcdemark@aol.com wrote: > Is the yellowing and dropping of leaves on Hibiscus normal at this time of year? Is it possible that I have an insect or a feeding problem? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Thu Sep 6 15:24:09 2001 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 08:24:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Purple Plum Tree References: <002001c13682$d9295ea0$3844530c@c6h5r8> <3B978925.C6587A3B@qwest.net> Message-ID: <3B979519.57EC8DB3@email.sps.mot.com> --------------8B5EC8BE8632976E6CE0D068 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have tried to grow 2 or 3 purple plum tree's here without much success. From what I can tell the problem is they do not like full sun, especially in the afternoon. If you note the purple plum tree's that are doing well in the valley, generally they are getting some kind of shade for a large portion of the day. One thing I have not tried that might work is; wrapping the trunk with some kind of protection from the sun, or perhaps painting it with the white wash paint for trunks. However, I tired this one year, after it had already started sapping, and it died within a couple of days, I guess from getting the tree paint in the open wound. Lovely tree, but because it would not grow where I wanted it to, I have never tried another one. ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.gizmoaz.com Over 175 Rose Bushes Planted! Over 100 different varieties! Never a dull moment!! I never know what to call that area between the sidewalk and the street. My father called it the Devil's Strip and when I asked, he said it was because the Government (devil) owned it and we have to keep it up. -- John Mertus Sue Bass wrote: > Joanne: > Here is a quote from Master Gardener and Arborist Rod McKusick on a > past question regarding a plum tree losing sap: > "When a tree starts to lose sap it is a sign that the tree is under > stress. Stress can be caused by over or under watering, nearby > construction, chemical application, caliche, improper pruning, > watering with pool water, planting too close to a mature tree, > gophers, air pollution as well as other items. If you can identify the > source of the stress and eliminate it your tree will be > much happier." > > I hope these suggestions trigger something for you so you can find > source of the stress on your tree. > > Sue Bass > > > Joanne Mattern wrote: > >> You helped us a while back with an irrigation problem we were >> experiencing. It was very helpful advice, therefore, I'd like to >> ask another question. Our purple plum tree has sap on its trunk. >> What is this caused from and what can I do to help it?Thanks,Joanne > --------------8B5EC8BE8632976E6CE0D068 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have tried to grow 2 or 3 purple plum tree's here without much success.  >From what I can tell the problem is they do not like full sun, especially in the afternoon.  If you note the purple plum tree's that are doing well in the valley, generally they are getting some kind of shade for a large portion of the day.  One thing I have not tried that might work is; wrapping the trunk with some kind of protection from the sun, or perhaps painting it with the white wash paint for trunks.  However, I tired this one year, after it had already started sapping, and it died within a couple of days, I guess from getting the tree paint in the open wound.  Lovely tree, but because it would not grow where I wanted it to, I have never tried another one.

-----
Alan        Chandler, Arizona        Sunset Zone: 13

http://www.gizmoaz.com
Over 175 Rose Bushes Planted! Over 100 different varieties! Never a dull moment!!

I never know what to call that area between the sidewalk and the street.  My father called it the Devil's Strip and when I asked, he said it was because the Government (devil) owned it and we have to keep it up.  -- John Mertus

Sue Bass wrote:

Joanne:
Here is a quote from Master Gardener and Arborist Rod McKusick on a past question regarding a plum tree losing sap:
"When a tree starts to lose sap it is a sign that the tree is under stress. Stress can be caused by over or under watering, nearby construction, chemical application, caliche, improper pruning, watering with pool water, planting too close to a mature tree, gophers, air pollution as well as other items. If you can identify the source of the stress and eliminate it your tree will be
much happier."

I hope these suggestions trigger something for you so you can find source of the stress on your tree.

Sue Bass
 

Joanne Mattern wrote:

You helped us a while back with an irrigation problem we were experiencing.  It was very helpful advice, therefore, I'd like to ask another question. Our purple plum tree has sap on its trunk.  What is this caused from and what can I do to help it?Thanks,Joanne
--------------8B5EC8BE8632976E6CE0D068-- From alamo@ultrasw.com Thu Sep 6 16:23:24 2001 From: alamo@ultrasw.com (Signa) Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 09:23:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Care of Ristras Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20010906091345.009f0a20@pop3.norton.antivirus> I'm not sure whether this is a suitable topic for this list or not, but I also don't know where else to ask. If this is off topic, maybe someone can direct me elsewhere? Yesterday I was given a lovely fresh red chile ristra from Hatch NM. I've never had one before. The chiles are fresh, not dried, and are still soft. I was told they have not been treated with any preservative or lacquer, and are safe for consumption, but I had intended to use them for decoration, not for cooking. They appear to be starting to mold. How should I manage this ristra so that I can keep it attractive and use it decoratively for the fall months? If I hang it outdoors, will it get "buggy" or be eaten by birds? Thanks, Signa From leatherbarrow@azscience.org Thu Sep 6 17:04:11 2001 From: leatherbarrow@azscience.org (leatherbarrow@azscience.org) Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 10:04:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109061704.f86H4Bg14995@Ag.arizona.edu> Hello! My name is Leah Leatherbarrow and I am the field trip coordinator for the Arizona science Center. We are looking into taking a field trip on February 23, 2001. I was writing to inquire about any commercial growers that you might be aware of in the area. We would like to take a "behind the scenes" look at the production and/or distribution of a large commericial grower or a similar company. Do you have any suggestions or contacts? I can be reached by email or via telephone @602.716.2000 ext. 2552. Thank you so much for your time. Sincerely, Leah Leatherbarrow Children's Program Coordinator Arizona Science Center Education Division 602.716.2000 x. 2552 From umiller@azdps.com Thu Sep 6 23:04:03 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 16:04:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hibiscus yellowing In-Reply-To: <3B979477.73434713@qwest.net> Message-ID: Or you could go to this site: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/ and type hibiscus and click on the Search button. That way you can find previous q&a's on hibiscus issues - some of which also dealt with yellow leaves. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Linda Guy Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2001 8:21 AM To: rcdemark@aol.com Cc: Arid_gardener Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hibiscus yellowing The person who generally handles hibiscus questions is heavily involved in schooling right now and hasn't been available to answer questions very often. Could I suggest you take a look at a website she has sometimes recommended to see if it is of help to you? http://www.hiddenvalleyhibiscus.com/pages/care.htm Sorry I wasn't more helpful. Linda Guy, MG rcdemark@aol.com wrote: > Is the yellowing and dropping of leaves on Hibiscus normal at this time of year? Is it possible that I have an insect or a feeding problem? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From reeva5@qwest.net Thu Sep 6 22:21:00 2001 From: reeva5@qwest.net (Randee) Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 16:21:00 -0600 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Master Gardners Traini ng Message-ID: <006501c13722$3c780980$39e2e63f@speedchoice.com> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_005E_01C136EF.EABB1F60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit BlankWould a master Gardner be kind enough to tell me if your training consisted of expertise in irrigation systems? Expertise knowledge on how to irrigate a large tract of community property? ------=_NextPart_000_005E_01C136EF.EABB1F60 Content-Type: image/gif; name="Blank Bkgrd.gif" Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 Content-ID: <005d01c13722$35558f60$39e2e63f@speedchoice.com> R0lGODlhLQAtAID/AP////f39ywAAAAALQAtAEACcAxup8vtvxKQsFon6d02898pGkgiYoCm6sq2 7iqWcmzOsmeXeA7uPJd5CYdD2g9oPF58ygqz+XhCG9JpJGmlYrPXGlfr/Yo/VW45e7amp2tou/lW xo/zX513z+Vt+1n/tiX2pxP4NUhy2FM4xtjIUQAAOw== ------=_NextPart_000_005E_01C136EF.EABB1F60-- From Rmdeedle@aol.com Fri Sep 7 03:39:23 2001 From: Rmdeedle@aol.com (Rmdeedle@aol.com) Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 23:39:23 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] No Subject Message-ID: <7b.1ab169c9.28c99b6b@aol.com> Could you kindly tell me what a Master Gardener is, and what training is involved. Does the training involve irrigation for a large tract of land? What is the difference between a Master Gardener and a Landscape Architect? Would a Master Gardner be someone who could handle the relandscaping of a large tract of land (550 homes and a large amount of common area), irrigation included, or would it be better to have a Landscape Architect - plans would have to be presented to the City. Thanks for your attention to this. Rose Mary Deedle From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Sep 7 14:25:07 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2001 07:25:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] MG Program References: <7b.1ab169c9.28c99b6b@aol.com> Message-ID: <3B98D8C2.1858D4E0@qwest.net> Hope you find the attached link to our website of help. Linda Guy, MG Rmdeedle@aol.com wrote: > Could you kindly tell me what a Master Gardener is, and what training is > involved. Does the training involve irrigation for a large tract of land? > What is the difference between a Master Gardener and a Landscape Architect? > Would a Master Gardner be someone who could handle the relandscaping of a > large tract of land (550 homes and a large amount of common area), irrigation > included, or would it be better to have a Landscape Architect - plans would > have to be presented to the City. Thanks for your attention to this. Rose > Mary Deedle > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Sep 7 14:27:27 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2001 07:27:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rake References: <200109031843.f83Ih6Q17167@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B98D94F.1137949A@qwest.net> Have you received a reply yet? I'm not sure what type of rake you are describing, but I've borrowed a large [3' across] rake from my neighbors when converting lawn to xeriscape. They got theirs at Home Depot. Not sure about making one, unless you are a machinist, because this one was made of metal. Linda Guy, MG ruthleek@i29.net wrote: > We are looking for a place to buy, or a pattern to make one of those hand rakes used to smooth and make furrows in a rock lawn. > > Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Sep 7 14:42:12 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2001 07:42:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Container Plants into Larger Pots References: <200108310413.f7V4D7Q21587@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B98DCC4.30D78376@qwest.net> It would have been better if you hadn't let the roots grow beyond the container. Since the nights are getting cooler, I would proceed to upgrade the container size. Recognize that you may now have some girdled roots, and these plants never fare well. If you are concerned about daytime heat, hang some shade cloth over the containers after transplanting. Water well, but let the water run out of the bottom of the container [ie don't collect it and let it be reabsorbed] to keep the root ball flushed. Linda Guy, MG deeuubee@aol.com wrote: > We have various trees and plants including acacia, pine, lantana, bird of paradise, etc. in one gallon containers that have root growth into the ground. we are wanting to transplant these into 5 gallon containers and want information about transplanting without destroying the plant. We have tried to transplant a few and have dug up root system but the plants still die. Some of the roots have broken when removing from the ground/pot. Any information would be appreciated, also would you suggest transplanting when the weather is cooler? > > Thanks, > > David > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Sep 7 14:43:51 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2001 07:43:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Eliminating Cat's Claw References: <200109010158.f811wcQ23348@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B98DD27.EB53C2EA@qwest.net> I don't know if this is the best way, but you could use a systemic product that attacks the plant but is inert in the soil [Finale, Roundup], and dig up the debris when it has died. These types of products work best when the plant is actively growing so that it can be 'ingested' into the plant's systems. Linda Guy, MG BJKantor@aol.com wrote: > What is the best way to eliminate the cat claw vine? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From jesmather@aol.com Fri Sep 7 14:48:29 2001 From: jesmather@aol.com (jesmather@aol.com) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 07:48:29 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109071448.f87EmTg09820@Ag.arizona.edu> I have found a mulberry tree starting to grow in my yard, but someone told me they are illegal to plant in the Phoenix metro area. Is this true? Should I just get rid of it or can I preserve it? From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Sep 7 14:55:48 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2001 07:55:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bamboo References: <200108262028.f7QKSe503062@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B98DFF4.34109FFB@qwest.net> I've always heard to plant bamboo carefully, because some become quite invasive. Others feel that it may not be that big an issue in Phoenix. Use our search engine in the archives section [same page where you placed your question originally] and you will pull up a good handfull of emails discussing bamboo. http://ag.arizona.edu/cgi-bin/texis/webinator/default?db=aridgardener&arg=bamboo Linda Guy, MG HS18042@aol.com wrote: > I want to plant bamboo on the north and south and west side of my patio with ferns in between the patio and the bamboo , can this be done and is there any special things that I must do to get this result? > What type of bamboo I use? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Sep 7 15:00:16 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2001 08:00:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Iris References: <200109051744.f85HiTg23568@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B98E0FF.E9C2FF3C@qwest.net> I have cut mine back after browning, but they can generally stay in the ground. Linda Guy, MG kbenninger@msn.com wrote: > Irisis; Leaves are turning brown @ end of summer, do they need to be cut back now to rebloom next spring? Dug up? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Sep 7 15:01:57 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2001 08:01:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Vegetable Gardening References: <200109052319.f85NJvg02192@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B98E165.90788933@qwest.net> Good resources from our website include http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Vegetable http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/library/ref-grdn.htm Good luck! Linda Guy, MG ricardo@uswest.net wrote: > Wondering what variety of tomatoes and corn might do well in my area. I live in a new in-fill home in vicinity of 13th street & Maryland Ave. The soil is not too good so I have added 4-5 inches of topsoil. It is also under bubblers. The garden is 5'x 30'. Any other ideas on type of veggies for my area? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Sep 7 15:04:09 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2001 08:04:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Xeriscape Plants References: <200109052352.f85Nq6g08167@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B98E1E9.706AD19C@qwest.net> Resources from our website include http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/library/ref-land.htm http://www.amwua.org/program-xeriscape.htm http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Desert http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Ornamentals Good luck! Linda Guy, MG ldlinda1@qwest.net wrote: > I have a small fountain and a very small yard. I would like to plant some container plants around the fountain. I like the pennisetum setaceum (cupreum compacta) which is a compact fountain grass. I would like to use xeriscape plants that would be drought resistant. The fountain does get shade in the afternoon from an olive tree but full son until about 3PM. Thank You > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Fri Sep 7 15:12:05 2001 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2001 08:12:05 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rake References: <200109031843.f83Ih6Q17167@Ag.arizona.edu> <3B98D94F.1137949A@qwest.net> Message-ID: <3B98E3C5.E0FCFF14@email.sps.mot.com> I know what she is talking about, but not sure where to find one locally. They are called Landscape Rakes. Home Depot? Lowes? Garden Shop? I did find a place on-line that sales them, and I'm sure there are more than just this one website you can order from. Linda there is a picture of one at both the sites I listed below, just so you will know what they look like in the future :) http://florianratchetcut.com/product.html?t_q=FLR36 My favorite place to order tools from is Gemplers. They carry them too. You can find them at: http://www.gemplers.com In the search box type: Landscape Rakes It will pull up a list, with pictures, of all the landscape rakes they have available. What I did is; I went to http://www.google.com and I typed in "Landscape Rake" Lots of websites there. Hope this helps! :) ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.gizmoaz.com Over 175 Rose Bushes Planted! Over 100 different varieties! Never a dull moment!! I never know what to call that area between the sidewalk and the street. My father called it the Devil's Strip and when I asked, he said it was because the Government (devil) owned it and we have to keep it up. -- John Mertus Linda Guy wrote: > Have you received a reply yet? I'm not sure what type of rake you are describing, but I've borrowed a large [3' across] rake from > my neighbors when converting lawn to xeriscape. They got theirs at Home Depot. Not sure about making one, unless you are a > machinist, because this one was made of metal. > > Linda Guy, MG > > ruthleek@i29.net wrote: > > > We are looking for a place to buy, or a pattern to make one of those hand rakes used to smooth and make furrows in a rock lawn. > > > > Thanks > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From MIKEC@WSIBINSURANCE.COM Fri Sep 7 16:29:48 2001 From: MIKEC@WSIBINSURANCE.COM (MIKEC@WSIBINSURANCE.COM) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 09:29:48 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109071629.f87GTlg28834@Ag.arizona.edu> I transplanted a large potted jade plant from a patio in Los Angeles to an air conditioned office in Phoenix. It started dropping leaves, so I moved it next to a brightly lite atrium about two weeks ago. It is still dropping leaves. Please help. Thank you. From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri Sep 7 17:06:39 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 10:06:39 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Tomaties and Sweetcorn References: <200109052319.f85NJvg02192@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <003b01c137bf$f4b26de0$1752530c@j0r9501> ----- Original Message ----- From: > Wondering what variety of tomatoes and corn might do well in my area. I live in a new in-fill home in vicinity of 13th street & Maryland Ave. The soil is not too good so I have added 4-5 inches of topsoil. It is also under bubblers. The garden is 5'x 30'. Any other ideas on type of veggies for my area? Re Sweetcorn: Most varieties do pretty well if planted at the proper time. It is a bit late now for fall corn. One can usually get a crop of early- or mid-season corn if planted before Labor Day and if the weather cooperates. Last year, I had a mid-season type, planted on Labor Day, that wasn't ready until the 2nd week in December. Sugar enhanced types (se) will hold the sweetness for a week or two after the first corn is ready. The older hybrids (su) begin to turn starchy right away so it must be harvested as soon as it becomes ready. Spring planting is from mid February to mid March so as to allow time for viable pollen to develop before it burns up in hot weather - frost protection is sometimes necessary. The shrunken hybrids (sh2) are very tender and the kernels have a thin shell - it is best to wait until mid March to plant sh2 because the seeds will sometimes rot if the soil stays cool too long for good germination although mid February plantings also often successful.. Re Tomatoes: The short answer is, only the cherry types do well consistently. Other types that do well one year may bomb out the next year depending on the weather - must be nature's way of keeping us humble. As a general rule, for best results plant cherries or short-season, hybid, determinate (bush) types . The long-season indeterminate types are more flavorful but fruit set is pretty sparse due to our short growing season and are more difficult to grow. I usually grow a few cherries and also some mid to long season, open-pollinated heirlooms because I have plenty of space and welcome the challenge. Tomatoes are considered a warm season vegetable (or is it a fruit?), but tomatoes can be successful as a fall crop if planted out before Labor Day. Fall transplants must be home-grown because of unavailability is nurseries. If the tomatoes are seeded on July 8, the plants will be eight weeks old by Labor Day, then allowing three more weeks for the plants to develop flower buds, the plants should be in bloom during the theoretical 55 - 95 degree F. optimum window for pollination. According to AZMET archives, this window occurs on average between September 27 and October 29. Fruit that sets after that will often usually stay green through the cool months and not ripen until late January. Some problems to expect: the annual whitefly epidemic occurs in mid to late September when the young plants are very vulnerable to damage from whiteflies and frost protection may be required after mid November. In the spring, transplants are available for planting in mid February. Any Others: If you do not have a copy of the Cooperative Extension's bulletin No. AZ1005 (formerly MC 84) "Vegetable Planting Schedule For Maricopa County", you should get one either on the web at ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1005.pdf or by ordering one from the Extension office. It lists over 50 vegetables that can be grown successfully, many of which are well adaped and may be plantd beginning now. Don't overlook the Asian grees - most are short-season, tasty, and easy to grow here. Olin Miller From crymer@Ag.arizona.edu Fri Sep 7 18:55:55 2001 From: crymer@Ag.arizona.edu (Cathy Rymer) Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2001 11:55:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200109052352.f85Nq6g08167@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20010907114415.00aea100@ag.arizona.edu> Linda, Instead of fountain grass (Pennisetum setaceum) why not try the wide selections of mulhenbergia grasses? These are clumping grasses native to southern Arizona and Sonora, Mexico and come in many sizes and flower colors. I'm especially fond of Bamboo mulhy (Mulhenbergia dumosa) which looks like miniature bamboo. This one would look very natural around a water feature, yet adapted to our climate and soils. Please note that the green Pennisetum may soon be added to the list of invasive species for the State of Arizona. It re seeds easily and now competes with native grasses on rangelands. The purple fountain grass is sterile. For more suggestions on plants around water features, contact the Phoenix Pond Society http://www.phoenixpond.com. Cathy At 04:52 PM 09/05/2001 -0700, ldlinda1@qwest.net wrote: >I have a small fountain and a very small yard. I would like to plant some >container plants around the fountain. I like the pennisetum setaceum >(cupreum compacta) which is a compact fountain grass. I would like to use >xeriscape plants that would be drought resistant. The fountain does get >shade in the afternoon from an olive tree but full son until about 3PM. >Thank You > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Catherine Rymer Instructional Specialist, Sr., Urban Horticulture University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Phoenix, AZ 85040 http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ From Beverlyfz@aol.com Fri Sep 7 21:02:03 2001 From: Beverlyfz@aol.com (Beverlyfz@aol.com) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 17:02:03 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Strawberries Message-ID: <6a.131d59c8.28ca8fcb@aol.com> I need some expert advise. I have hanging baskets of strawberries in my greenhouse. They have coco fiber liners about 1/2 inch thick. Over time, the plants are either drying out or rotting off. I hook new runners into the liner with hair pins and they root fairly well, but there is a constant turnover of plants and they don't seem to be very healthy. They are in a continuous draft all day from an evaporative cooler, and the greenhouse stays below 90 most days. They get watered twice a day with a drip line, maybe a gallon of water goes through and drips out. I get some strawberries, but wish the plants stayed in better shape and they were happy enough to produce well. I have several different kinds also. I have the idea that the liner is too thick and they are never exactly at the correct depth because of it. Thanks for your input. Beverly Fizzell From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Sep 7 21:18:33 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 17:18:33 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fungus called conk Message-ID: <119.454d4fa.28ca93a9@aol.com> --part1_119.454d4fa.28ca93a9_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It sounds as if the fungus you have in your yard is called a conk. I would suggest either digging out the stump or having it removed, the host for the fungus is the rotting wood. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_119.454d4fa.28ca93a9_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It sounds as if the fungus you have in your yard is called a conk. I would
suggest either digging out the stump or having it removed, the host for the
fungus is the rotting wood.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_119.454d4fa.28ca93a9_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Sep 7 21:18:31 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 17:18:31 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Elm leaves turning yellow Message-ID: <47.10a3a3b2.28ca93a7@aol.com> --part1_47.10a3a3b2.28ca93a7_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The yellow leaves on your elm tree are most likely caused by either over or under watering. It is normal on the evergreen elm to have some loose bark. Check out this website for info on proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_47.10a3a3b2.28ca93a7_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The yellow leaves on your elm tree are most likely caused by either over or
under watering. It is normal on the evergreen elm to have some loose bark.
Check out this website for info on proper irrigation:  
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_47.10a3a3b2.28ca93a7_boundary-- From murraylindsay@msn.com Fri Sep 7 21:23:46 2001 From: murraylindsay@msn.com (murraylindsay@msn.com) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 14:23:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200109072123.f87LNkg21790@Ag.arizona.edu> How and when is the best time to prune pittisporum(sp) and japanese privet? From seeds@seedswapper.com Fri Sep 7 22:24:13 2001 From: seeds@seedswapper.com (seeds by way of Lucy Bradley ) Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2001 15:24:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] RE: Seed Swapping Website Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20010907152354.01d6e3a8@ag.arizona.edu> Hello, I apologize if this email is unwelcome, but I saw you were interested in seed swapping and seed trading on the web. I wanted to let you know about my totally free web site http://www.seedswapper.com created for this very purpose. This web site is non-commercial. There is no store online, nor is there any fee to use it. The seed swapping community has been so wonderful trading seeds my wife that I just wanted to give something back to the community. If you are interested in Seed Swapping, please take a moment and go to my web site at: http://www.seedswapper.com At the web site you will find a friendly community and message area rich in content. Additionally, there is a searchable data base of seeds that users have posted to trade. Once again, if you do not trade seeds, I sincerely apologize for the intrusion. Thanks for your time, Troy & Carrie SeedSwapper.com (To be removed from our email list, please respond to this email with the subject "REMOVE" as the subject.) From crymer@Ag.arizona.edu Sat Sep 8 00:51:49 2001 From: crymer@Ag.arizona.edu (Cathy Rymer) Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2001 17:51:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] No Subject In-Reply-To: <7b.1ab169c9.28c99b6b@aol.com> Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20010907170621.0096bf00@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_29972601==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Hi Rose Mary, Master Gardeners are volunteers that assist the University of Arizona in its mission of educational outreach. While some Master Gardener volunteers are also Landscape Architects and other horticultural professionals, most are members of the community that are passionate about teaching residents about environmentally responsible landscaping and gardening. A Master Gardener would be a great source for information on plant choices appropriate for this area or as a non-biased consultant. But it sounds like the project you have is more than a volunteer could to commit to. Some cities offer grants for landscape renovations of common or public areas. For example, the Town of Gilbert offers WIN grants of $5,000 that require a match of $5,000. Your HOA could use the money for an architect, irrigation materials and plants. The match can be dollars spent by the HOA or in-kind donations such as plants, professional time, supplies, etc. The value of volunteer time donated would be considered an in-kind match. Take a look at Gilbert's grant information. http://www.ci.gilbert.az.us/neighbor/win.htm I would suggest that you consider hiring a landscape professional for the installation and architectural drawings. Here are some titles and definitions for horticultural professionals. Arizona Certified Landscape Professional A landscaper who has received certification by the Arizona Landscape Contractors Association. Contact: Arizona Landscape Contractors Association, 331 N. First Avenue, Suite 250, Phoenix, AZ 85003. Phone 602-258-0126, fax (602) 2799842. http://www.azlca.com/ Certified Arborist An arborist has received certification by the International Society of Arboriculture. Exam on tree ID and care. Thirty hours of continuing education required every three years. http://www.isa-arbor.com/arborists/arbsearch.html Certified Landscape Irrigation Auditor, Contractor, Designer or Manager An irrigation specialist who has received certification by The Irrigation Association. The four certifications listed above represent different levels of certification. A Landscape Irrigation Auditor is the beginning level, and an Irrigation Manager is the advanced level. Contact: Irrigation Association, 8260 Willow Oaks Corp. Dr. Suite 120, Fairfax, VA 22031. Phone 703-573-3551. Desert Landscaper Certification A program administered by the Desert Botanical Garden consisting of 30 workshops over a 10 month period which include basic training, hand-on experience and a final comprehensive landscaping project. Phone 480-481-8161, http://www.dbg.org/4/dls.html Landscape Architect BS in Landscape Architecture; state license. Requires apprenticeship time under a licensed Landscape Architect. Landscape Contractor A landscape installation and maintenance contractor. . Testing required. Insurance required. Certification by the Arizona Landscape Contractor Association, 331 N. First Avenue, Suite 250, Phoenix, AZ 85003. Phone 602-258-0126, fax (602) 2799842. http://www.azlca.com/ Testing required. Insurance required. I hope this helps. Cathy At 11:39 PM 09/06/2001 -0400, Rmdeedle@aol.com wrote: >Could you kindly tell me what a Master Gardener is, and what training is >involved. Does the training involve irrigation for a large tract of land? >What is the difference between a Master Gardener and a Landscape Architect? >Would a Master Gardner be someone who could handle the relandscaping of a >large tract of land (550 homes and a large amount of common area), irrigation >included, or would it be better to have a Landscape Architect - plans would >have to be presented to the City. Thanks for your attention to this. Rose >Mary Deedle >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Catherine Rymer Instructional Specialist, Sr., Urban Horticulture Certified Arborist WC-5216 University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Phoenix, AZ 85040 http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ --=====================_29972601==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Hi Rose Mary,

Master Gardeners are volunteers that assist the University of Arizona in its mission of educational outreach.  While some Master Gardener volunteers are also Landscape Architects and other horticultural professionals, most are members of the community that are passionate about teaching residents about environmentally responsible landscaping and gardening.

A Master Gardener would be a great source for information on plant choices appropriate for this area or as a non-biased consultant.   But it sounds like the project you have is more than a volunteer could to commit to.

Some cities offer grants for landscape renovations of common or public areas.  For example, the Town of Gilbert offers WIN grants of $5,000 that require a match of $5,000.  Your HOA could use the money for an architect, irrigation materials and plants.  The match can be dollars spent by the HOA or in-kind donations such as plants, professional time, supplies, etc.  The value of volunteer time donated would be considered an in-kind match.    Take a look at Gilbert's grant information.  http://www.ci.gilbert.az.us/neighbor/win.htm

I would suggest that you consider hiring a landscape professional for the installation and architectural drawings.  Here are some titles and definitions for horticultural professionals.

Arizona Certified Landscape Professional
A landscaper who has received certification by the Arizona Landscape Contractors Association. Contact: Arizona Landscape Contractors Association, 331 N. First Avenue, Suite 250, Phoenix, AZ  85003.  Phone 602-258-0126, fax (602) 2799842.  http://www.azlca.com/

Certified Arborist
An arborist has received certification by the International Society of Arboriculture.  Exam on tree ID and care.  Thirty hours of continuing education required every three years.  http://www.isa-arbor.com/arborists/arbsearch.html

Certified Landscape Irrigation Auditor, Contractor, Designer or Manager
An irrigation specialist who has received certification by The Irrigation Association.  The four certifications listed above represent different levels of certification.  A Landscape Irrigation Auditor is the beginning level, and an Irrigation Manager is the advanced level.  Contact: Irrigation Association, 8260 Willow Oaks Corp. Dr. Suite 120, Fairfax, VA 22031. Phone 703-573-3551.

Desert Landscaper Certification
A program administered by the Desert Botanical Garden consisting of 30 workshops over a 10 month period which include basic training, hand-on experience and a final comprehensive landscaping project.  Phone 480-481-8161, http://www.dbg.org/4/dls.html

Landscape Architect
BS in Landscape Architecture; state license.  Requires apprenticeship time under a licensed Landscape Architect.

Landscape Contractor
A landscape installation and maintenance contractor.  .  Testing required.  Insurance required.  Certification by the Arizona Landscape Contractor Association, 331 N. First Avenue, Suite 250, Phoenix, AZ  85003.  Phone 602-258-0126, fax (602) 2799842.  http://www.azlca.com/  Testing required.  Insurance required.

I hope this helps.

Cathy

At 11:39 PM 09/06/2001 -0400, Rmdeedle@aol.com wrote:
Could you kindly tell me what a Master Gardener is, and what training is
involved.  Does the training involve irrigation for a large tract of land? 
What is the difference between a Master Gardener and a Landscape Architect? 
Would a Master Gardner be someone who could handle the relandscaping of a
large tract of land (550 homes and a large amount of common area), irrigation
included, or would it be better to have a Landscape Architect - plans would
have to be presented to the City.   Thanks for your attention to this.  Rose
Mary Deedle
_______________________________________________
Arid_gardener mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener

Catherine Rymer
Instructional Specialist, Sr., Urban Horticulture
Certified Arborist WC-5216
University of Arizona
Maricopa County Cooperative Extension
4341 E. Broadway
Phoenix, AZ  85040

--=====================_29972601==_.ALT-- From drgarnett@msn.com Sat Sep 8 05:16:32 2001 From: drgarnett@msn.com (Donald Garnett) Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2001 22:16:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] fountain grass (pennisetum setaceum) Message-ID: ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C137EA.BFC94C40 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi - there are many plants that will do well in containers, especially wi= th afternoon =20 shade, and Linda Guy has given you some links to get you started. I would like to discourage you from planting the Pennisetum setaceum, how= ever. This is a very invasive non-native grass (from North Africa) that is gene= rally =20 considered to be a noxious weed by western botanists. It is a fire-resist= ant grass that out-competes local plants, and once it gets introduced into ou= r desert landscape it presents a fire hazard which is dangerous for our nat= ive cacti. Don't be fooled by the fact that it's sold in local nurseries - ma= ny =20 commercial nurseries sell plants that are inappropriate for Arizona deser= ts. For more information, see the following web sites: http://tncweeds.ucdavis.edu http://www.nps.gov/plants/alien/fact/pese1.htm Good luck in finding plants for your fountain area! Don Garnett ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C137EA.BFC94C40 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hi - there= are many plants that will do well in containers, especially with afterno= on
shade, and Linda Guy has given you some links to get you s= tarted.
 
I would like to discourage you from = planting the Pennisetum setaceum, however.
This is a very inva= sive non-native grass (from North Africa) that is generally
c= onsidered to be a noxious weed by western botanists. It is a fire-resista= nt
grass that out-competes local plants, and once it gets intr= oduced into our
desert