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From fergy6232@yahoo.com Mon Apr 1 00:26:14 2002 From: fergy6232@yahoo.com (fergy6232@yahoo.com) Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 17:26:14 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204010026.g310QEg22844@Ag.arizona.edu> Hi, how do you transplant Mexican or CA. Palms? I have 2 that were against the foundation & I moved them to the center of the back yard. They are about 18" high + 4 ' of fronds. I was told to tie the fronds together very tight until new fronds appear in the center (2 weeks, not yet). I give them 5 gal. of water every a.m. Anything else I should be doing? Someone said I should untie the fronds and cut back the bottom ones? Any help would be appreciated. Also, I get irrigation in a couple of weeks. Thanks, Bill From joanne@dcsinter.net Mon Apr 1 00:57:30 2002 From: joanne@dcsinter.net (joanne@dcsinter.net) Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 17:57:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204010057.g310vUg27319@Ag.arizona.edu> I am having problems with yellowing of my evergreen fruitless pear trees leaves. Can you give any ideas of what it might be lacking. Thank you, Joanne From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Apr 1 02:55:11 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 21:55:11 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pear tree with yellow leaves Message-ID: --part1_f8.1914dab6.29d9260f_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Joanne, Yellow leaves can be caused by either over or under watering. If you didn't change your watering for winter time watering then the cause is probably over watering. If you did cut back on the watering for winter and you haven't increased your watering with the warmer weather than the most likely cause of the yellow leaves is under watering. Check out this site for info on proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_f8.1914dab6.29d9260f_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Joanne,

Yellow leaves can be caused by either over or under watering. If you didn't change your watering for winter time watering then the cause is probably over watering. If you did cut back on the watering for winter and you haven't increased your watering with the warmer weather than the most likely cause of the yellow leaves is under watering.
Check out this site for info on proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener

--part1_f8.1914dab6.29d9260f_boundary-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Apr 1 03:48:17 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2002 03:48:17 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palms, transplanting established palms Message-ID: Here is information from the archives written by Lucy Bradley, Maricopa Urban Horticulture Agent: Large Pre-dug Palms: Large landscape palms are usually dug from established groves or landscape plantings. They must be handled gently and with care in all phases of the transplanting operation. Rough handling or bumping can damage the terminal bud and kill the tree. Once dug from the original location, palms should not be left lying out in the hot sun for long periods of time either at the digging site or at the planting site. The root ball should be kept moist, and the trunk securely braced in transit. One way to accomplish this is to cover the root ball with damp burlap. Do not use plastic for this purpose, since it will trap heat. Dug palms regenerate some roots from the cut ends, but other new roots develop from the root crown. In some species, increased root regeneration has been measured with longer cut stubs in larger root balls. Root regeneration depends on adequate water and oxygen. At times the root ball may be deeper than it is wide. In general, larger root balls make for better establishment in less than perfect conditions. Water of dug palms is stored in the trunk and lost through the leaves. For this reason, up to half of older living fronds may be removed for transport. The remaining fronds are tied together over the tender bud with a biodegradable twine to protect it from drying and sun scald. (On some species the bud may be actually splinted to protect it from breaking.) Depending on the time of year the palm is planted, the fronds should be left tied around the bud for 2 to 3 months. In arid climates, the chance of the twine actually rotting is slim. When new growth begins to bulge out below the point at which the fronds are tied, the rope may be cut to gradually release the foliage. Leave the old fronds in place for a month more to protect the bud and new leaves. The planting hole for large pre-dug palms should be only as deep as the root ball and should drain in 24 hours as discussed above. Backfill need not be amended. Loosen the soil 3 feet beyond each side of the root ball to encourage lateral root growth. Large pre-dug palms should be planted at their original planting depth. Planting too deeply may cause root suffocation due to restricted oxygen, nutritional deficiencies, root rot disease and frequently loss of the palm. Don't plant the crowns deep simply to ensure that the trees don't fall over. Large palms may be braced when installed with at least three 2x4 lumber braces (at 45=B0 from the ground) against 1 ft lengths of 2x4 that are vertically strapped or banded around the trunk. Protect the trunk with nylon, burlap, or other suitable material where the one foot lengths of 2x4 are secured. Do not nail these vertical pieces into the trunk. Supports can be removed when fronds are untied. Water large palms immediately as discussed above. Daily irrigations to a depth of 2 ft may gradually be reduced to once a week during the first warm season. Allow for differences in soil texture: clay soils will need watering less often than sandy soils. Bubbler or soaker irrigation into a built-up well should wet an area 2 feet beyond the root ball. As discussed above, drip emitters should be spaced at 2 feet and at 4 feet beyond the trunk. >From: fergy6232@yahoo.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 17:26:14 -0700 (MST) > >Hi, how do you transplant Mexican or CA. >Palms? I have 2 that were against the >foundation & I moved them to the center of >the back yard. They are about 18" high + 4 ' >of fronds. I was told to tie the fronds >together very tight until new fronds appear >in the center (2 weeks, not yet). I give them > 5 gal. of water every a.m. Anything else I >should be doing? Someone said I should untie >the fronds and cut back the bottom ones? Any >help would be appreciated. Also, I get >irrigation in a couple of weeks. Thanks, Bill > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Apr 1 03:56:13 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2002 03:56:13 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] bees, reducing number in garden Message-ID: Here is a response from the archives to a similar question. Response is from Sue Bass, Master Gardener: According to a publication we have (publication No. MC 63) on Africanized Honey Bees: away from the hive the Africanized bees are no more aggressive than any other bee or wasp. And I don't think there is an easy way to tell them apart by looking at them. The problem is they defend their hives more diligently. Many more bees will come to the defense of the hive in contrast to the common European honey bees. So unless you have a hive on your property I wouldn't be concerned. Stay away from swarms and if you see them contact a Bee Removal specialist or Pest Control company immediately. You can pick up a copy of our publication by visiting the following site for information, or stop in at the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension Center at 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix, for a copy. The number for the office is 602-470-8086. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Individual bees collecting pollen and nectar from flowers should be left alone. Bees are very important pollinators and we have seen a decline in their populations in recent years. --- If you have severe allergies to bee stings, you will need to remove insect-pollinated plants from your landscape to reduce the number of bees you might encounter in the yard. Here in the desert, water is also an important attractant for bees, so if you are allergic you may want to remove bird baths, spas, swimming pools, etc. >From: sudean@sbcglobal.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 15:42:01 -0700 (MST) > >how do you discurage honey bees around your bushes? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Apr 1 04:09:00 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2002 04:09:00 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] vitamins Message-ID: I searched the archives and did not find any publications regarding vitamin treatments. I believe all the research that has been done with vitamin treatments for plants has concluded that vitamin treatments have no effect on plant growth. Others on this list may have more information. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: bsgasta@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 11:03:21 -0700 (MST) > >What publications might you have regarding vitamin treatments for plants & >shrubs? > >thanks, > >bg > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From Pabaferd@Juno.com Mon Apr 1 15:39:39 2002 From: Pabaferd@Juno.com (Pabaferd@Juno.com) Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 08:39:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204011539.g31Fddi16648@Ag.arizona.edu> A neighbor has suggested that we add "soil sulpher" and water to help dig through the caliche layer. Will this help? Thank you, Barbara Ferdinand Pabaferd@Juno.com From ldcolgan@earthlink.net Mon Apr 1 17:17:13 2002 From: ldcolgan@earthlink.net (ldcolgan@earthlink.net) Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 10:17:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204011717.g31HHDi11268@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a wildflower garden. In the garden I have white and yellow daisies, red flax, blue flax. I am not sure if I have Arizona poppy or Mexican poppy. Don't quite know the difference. The poppies have four petals and are large flowers. I would like to know if I can pick the dried flowers save the seeds for another area in my yard that I want to convert to a wild flower garden. Any ideas of how I can go about snipping and keeping the dried flowers to be used again? Thanks From bill.gemma@crbard.com Mon Apr 1 17:24:12 2002 From: bill.gemma@crbard.com (bill.gemma@crbard.com) Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 10:24:12 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204011724.g31HOBi12871@Ag.arizona.edu> I planted 1gallon "Sweet 100" cherry tomatoes in early March. My garden is raised about a foot and is about 30'long by 3'wide. I added a bag of Kellogs mulch and turned the soil before planting. I put bone meal in the bottom of each hole and I water about 1 hour every 3 to 4 days. My plants look yellowish and shriveled. Am I watering too much? Do I need to fertilize? Also, the basil I planted at the shadier end of the garden looks poor. What do you think about that? Thanks for your help. From epcroll@aol.com Mon Apr 1 19:17:03 2002 From: epcroll@aol.com (epcroll@aol.com) Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 12:17:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204011917.g31JH3i11526@Ag.arizona.edu> In Tucson, I have a two year old potted Buddleia davidii. Location: southfacing. For the second year, the leaves are getting black spots - in the middle of the leaf. Those afflicted are turning yellow. big time problem last year - cut back all of the problem branches and leaves. Is this a fungus? What are suggested treatments. Thanks. From denisetm@hotmail.com Mon Apr 1 19:46:42 2002 From: denisetm@hotmail.com (denisetm@hotmail.com) Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 12:46:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204011946.g31Jkgi17702@Ag.arizona.edu> I live on the East Coast in Connecticut, and the Juniper (Red Cedar) has an abundance of galls on them. What can be done? Will the trees die from this? Thank you, denisetm@hotmail.com From boofie@bigfoot.com Mon Apr 1 23:22:49 2002 From: boofie@bigfoot.com (Jessica Boof Sizemore) Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 15:22:49 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] THE IMPOSSIBLE QUESTION In-Reply-To: <200203211342.g2LDgUg19164@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20020401232249.60467.qmail@web10002.mail.yahoo.com> Living in Tucson, I am looking for a ground cover that will come in THICK, will stay green with minimum watering, will be attractive, and will cover an area 6'x18' in the front yard. THe area is sparsly grassy, has a bit of weeds, and has a lot of rocks, which is the reason I don't want to work on the grass, I don't want to have to mow the front. Realizing that this is an impossible question, I will not hold my breath to long. Boof ===== Tucson, Az __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Greetings - send holiday greetings for Easter, Passover http://greetings.yahoo.com/ From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Apr 2 00:09:03 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 19:09:03 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Red Cedar Message-ID: <140.c23aa5a.29da509f@aol.com> --part1_140.c23aa5a.29da509f_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I'm sorry but I've not had any experience with the Red Cedar since it does not grow in the low desert of Arizona. I would suggest that you contact the Cooperative Extension in the county in which you live, they will no doubt have experience with the problem that you have asked about. You will find them listed under county government in your phone book. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_140.c23aa5a.29da509f_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I'm sorry but I've not had any experience with the Red Cedar since it does not grow in the low desert of Arizona.
I would suggest that you contact the Cooperative Extension in the county in which you live, they will no doubt have experience with the problem that you have asked about. You will find them listed under county government in your phone book.

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_140.c23aa5a.29da509f_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Apr 2 00:16:47 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 19:16:47 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ground cover in a rocky area Message-ID: <81.198fe6b5.29da526f@aol.com> --part1_81.198fe6b5.29da526f_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Have you considered planting myaporum in your problem area? The grass and weeds must be killed with an herbicide before planting. The myaporum will stay green year round but will not handle any foot traffic. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_81.198fe6b5.29da526f_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Have you considered planting myaporum in your problem area?
The grass and weeds must be killed with an herbicide before planting.
The myaporum will stay green year round but will not handle any foot traffic.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_81.198fe6b5.29da526f_boundary-- From dcmc32@hotmail.com Tue Apr 2 03:13:32 2002 From: dcmc32@hotmail.com (xxxx ssssssssss) Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 03:13:32 Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID:

continue my member ships "thanks"

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From zamijo@earthlink.net Tue Apr 2 05:04:42 2002 From: zamijo@earthlink.net (zamijo@earthlink.net) Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 22:04:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204020504.g3254gi02016@Ag.arizona.edu> you will think I am a nut.. but I am VERY protective of my trees. Two expensive ficus three years old..and five chinese elm , two years old. There is a lot of concrete around my trees..a block wall and a huge cement driveway. I wrapped the tree trunks in one thickness of a blanket, and then wrapped that with the white paper/fabric that you buy to put over plants to protect them from frost. I tied it on loosely with narrow plastic plant ties, the kind that stretches easily.... Is this going to prove detrimental to my trees?? I know paper tree wrap isn't good.. From sjbass@qwest.net Tue Apr 2 05:08:05 2002 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2002 22:08:05 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: hibiscus care References: <20344-3CA92F76-5778@storefull-2297.public.lawson.webtv.net> Message-ID: <3CA93CB5.90BCBFAA@qwest.net> Do you live in the Phoenix area? I have a potted hibiscus plant that was outdoors all winter and it is fine. It dropped some foliage during the winter but it is starting to sprout new leaves now. One of my favorite sources for hibiscus care is the following web site: http://www.hiddenvalleyhibiscus.com/care/index.htm What do your shrubs look like? Are they completely bare? What is the wood like? Is it still green and pliable or is it dry and does it snap off? Sue Bass PETE FOSTER wrote: > we planted hibiscus summer,2001.they show no signs of reviving so far > this spring. do you think the shrubs were killed by the winter weather? > will you provide some core tatics? > thanks, From Chris_Nichols@Dell.com Tue Apr 2 13:28:26 2002 From: Chris_Nichols@Dell.com (Chris_Nichols@Dell.com) Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 07:28:26 -0600 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <558DC7C51772B3489A342EC141F973A51F1067@AUSXMPS306.aus.amer.dell.com> http://fletcher.ces.state.nc.us/programs/nursery/metria/metria2/m24.pdf See page 12 of 18. Chris in Arid Austin USDA Zn. 8b Sunset Zn. 30 > -----Original Message----- > From: Shiu@tds.net [mailto:Shiu@tds.net] > Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2002 7:11 PM > To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > > I am looking for any information on a tree that is a hybred > and the name of it is called a Androscoggin--it is a very fst > growing tree and I am looking for any information on how well > it will do in the phoenix area and anything else that is > available on this tree. Thank you for your help > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From Greg Poole" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0020_01C1DA1C.4E470060 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I need help IDing a low mounding ground cover. It is 8 to 10 inches = high, 2/3 ft wide. Profuse Yellow daisy type flowers cover the top with = small green leaves 1/2 in long. It smell somewhat like santolina. It = survived the winter with little flower production but stayed green. If = any of you live near Sun City West, this plant is grown at the entrance = of the Art Museam at Bell Rd and the Ave. of the Arts. I hope someone = can provide the ID of this plant.=20 Thanks Greg=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0020_01C1DA1C.4E470060 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I need help IDing a low mounding ground = cover. It=20 is 8 to 10 inches high, 2/3 ft wide. Profuse Yellow daisy type flowers = cover the=20 top with small green leaves 1/2 in long. It smell somewhat like = santolina.=20 It survived the winter with little flower production but stayed green. = If any of=20 you live near Sun City West, this plant is grown at the entrance of the = Art=20 Museam at Bell Rd and the Ave. of the Arts. I hope someone can provide = the ID of=20 this plant.

Thanks

Greg

------=_NextPart_000_0020_01C1DA1C.4E470060-- From Jonathan Kandell" Message-ID: <005601c1da59$7e0cd800$6a39bbd0@oemcomputer> Rocks painted green. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jessica Boof Sizemore" To: Sent: Monday, April 01, 2002 4:22 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] THE IMPOSSIBLE QUESTION > Living in Tucson, I am looking for a ground cover that will come in > THICK, will stay green with minimum watering, will be attractive, and > will cover an area 6'x18' in the front yard. THe area is sparsly > grassy, has a bit of weeds, and has a lot of rocks, which is the reason > I don't want to work on the grass, I don't want to have to mow the > front. > Realizing that this is an impossible question, I will not hold my > breath to long. > Boof > > ===== > Tucson, Az > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Greetings - send holiday greetings for Easter, Passover > http://greetings.yahoo.com/ > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Apr 2 15:23:02 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 15:23:02 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plant ID - Yellow Groundcover Message-ID: Sounds like damianita daisy (Chrysactinia mexicana). Are the leaves needlelike? >From: "Greg Poole" >Reply-To: "Greg Poole" >To: "Mstr Gardner" >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plant ID - Yellow Groundcover >Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 07:59:24 -0700 > >I need help IDing a low mounding ground cover. It is 8 to 10 inches high, >2/3 ft wide. Profuse Yellow daisy type flowers cover the top with small >green leaves 1/2 in long. It smell somewhat like santolina. It survived the >winter with little flower production but stayed green. If any of you live >near Sun City West, this plant is grown at the entrance of the Art Museam >at Bell Rd and the Ave. of the Arts. I hope someone can provide the ID of >this plant. >Thanks >Greg _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From s2@arcworldwide.com Tue Apr 2 15:43:16 2002 From: s2@arcworldwide.com (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 08:43:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] THE IMPOSSIBLE QUESTION References: <20020401232249.60467.qmail@web10002.mail.yahoo.com> <005601c1da59$7e0cd800$6a39bbd0@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <3CA9D194.8182208B@arcworldwide.com> > Rocks painted green. Ha. How about creeping thyme or dwarf rosemary? Lantana? If rabbits aren't an issue and flowers are ok: gazania, ice plant, verbana. Creeping Thyme is actually a good grass substitute here in Tucson. Some water, but not much... even takes light foot traffic. -- Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. Vice President, Communications & Technology ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org ===================================================== "I became convinced we are here for each other." -- R. Buckminster Fuller From belaire@qwest.net Tue Apr 2 21:38:56 2002 From: belaire@qwest.net (belaire@qwest.net) Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 14:38:56 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204022138.g32Lcui09960@Ag.arizona.edu> my tomatoes leaves are turning yellow at the bottom of the plant. I'm not over watering. What will help? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Apr 2 23:08:13 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 18:08:13 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Soil sulfur Message-ID: <18d.5decd73.29db93dd@aol.com> --part1_18d.5decd73.29db93dd_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Barbara, Soil sulfur will help to loosen the soil and reduce the soil pH. It will probably also help to slightly loosen the caliche but if you have much caliche do not expect miracles. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_18d.5decd73.29db93dd_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Barbara,
Soil sulfur will help to loosen the soil and reduce the soil pH. It will probably also help to slightly loosen the caliche but if you have much caliche do not expect miracles.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_18d.5decd73.29db93dd_boundary-- From D Sparrow" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_008C_01C1DA63.186F4F50 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Some great plant ID tools - Google search engine, www.google.com =20 Type name of plant and for sites with photos add the word, photo. Some Arizona plant pages - Master gardener Arid Plant list at = http://ag.arizona.edu/pima/gardening/aridplants/aridplant_index.html=20 - http://www.desert-tropicals.com/Plants/sci_names.html Great plant list = to search on line for photos and info, encyclopedic CD available for = purchase - http://naturesongs.com/vvplants/ Website dedicated to the Flora of the = Verde Valley and Sedona=20 - http://wc.pima.edu/Bfiero/tucsonecology/plants/list_cn.htm Tucson = Desert Plants List ------=_NextPart_000_008C_01C1DA63.186F4F50 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Some great plant ID tools

- Google search engine, www.google.com

Type name of plant and for sites with photos add the=20 word, photo.

Some Arizona plant pages

- Master gardener Arid Plant list at=20 http://ag.arizona.edu/pima/gardening/aridplants/aridplant_index.html&= nbsp;

- http://www= .desert-tropicals.com/Plants/sci_names.html Great=20 plant list to search on line for photos and info, encyclopedic CD = available for=20 purchase

- http://naturesongs.com/vvplants= / Website=20 dedicated to the Flora of the Verde Valley and Sedona

- http:= //wc.pima.edu/Bfiero/tucsonecology/plants/list_cn.htm Tucson=20 Desert Plants List

------=_NextPart_000_008C_01C1DA63.186F4F50-- From inksparrow@usa.net Tue Apr 2 23:40:24 2002 From: inksparrow@usa.net (D Sparrow) Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 16:40:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plant ID - Yellow Groundcover References: Message-ID: <00ae01c1da9f$ca5d1e40$091b6541@deborahc299sug> If it's not Damianita, Dyssodia is a similar plant. (common names; golden fleece, scrubby dogweed). To ID see photos at http://www.naturesongs.com/vvplants/dogweed.html and another variety at http://wc.pima.edu/Bfiero/tucsonecology/plants/wflow_dyss.htm for Damianita ID see http://ag.arizona.edu/pima/gardening/aridplants/Chrysactinia_mexicana.html Both are hardy plants used frequently in Arizona landscapes. Damianita is from Mexico. Several varieties of Dyssodia are native to Arizona and it is a larval food plant for butterflies. Deb Sparrow MG Tempe AZ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Linda Drew" To: ; Sent: Tuesday, April 02, 2002 8:23 AM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Plant ID - Yellow Groundcover > > Sounds like damianita daisy (Chrysactinia mexicana). > Are the leaves needlelike? > > > > >From: "Greg Poole" > >Reply-To: "Greg Poole" > >To: "Mstr Gardner" > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plant ID - Yellow Groundcover > >Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 07:59:24 -0700 > > > >I need help IDing a low mounding ground cover. It is 8 to 10 inches high, > >2/3 ft wide. Profuse Yellow daisy type flowers cover the top with small > >green leaves 1/2 in long. It smell somewhat like santolina. It survived the > >winter with little flower production but stayed green. If any of you live > >near Sun City West, this plant is grown at the entrance of the Art Museam > >at Bell Rd and the Ave. of the Arts. I hope someone can provide the ID of > >this plant. > >Thanks > >Greg > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From bigfeet15@excite.com Wed Apr 3 00:26:46 2002 From: bigfeet15@excite.com (bigfeet15@excite.com) Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 17:26:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204030026.g330Qki03503@Ag.arizona.edu> i live in mesa.i have a queen palm that is 7 years old and 20 feet tall.the leaves are yellow and the new growth is deformed on the end and half the size.i used ironite,salt and ammonium sulfate no help.in the winter i water every other week for 5-6 hours which in the past has worked good.what can i do? thank you From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Apr 3 02:14:08 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 02:14:08 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palm Care Message-ID: Palms need special fertilizers that contain micronutients as well as Nitrogen-Phosphorus-Potassium. It will be labeled as palm fertilizer or something like "18-9-18 plus minors". Now is the time to fertilize, follow label directions. >http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf The above link will take you to the University of Arizona's publication on palm care. You will find information on various landscape palms, including Queen Palm. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: bigfeet15@excite.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 17:26:46 -0700 (MST) > >i live in mesa.i have a queen palm that is 7 years old and 20 feet tall.the >leaves are yellow and the new growth is deformed on the end and half the >size.i used ironite,salt and ammonium sulfate no help.in the winter i water >every other week for 5-6 hours which in the past has worked good.what can i >do? thank you > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Wed Apr 3 04:22:14 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 20:22:14 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question caliche In-Reply-To: <200204011539.g31Fddi16648@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20020403042214.87668.qmail@web14905.mail.yahoo.com> If you want to punch through caliche, you should use a strong acid. Try alkaliche. BE CAREFUL, it contains 20% sufuric acid. It will eat through rock. --- Pabaferd@Juno.com wrote: > A neighbor has suggested that we add "soil sulpher" > and water to help dig through the caliche layer. > Will this help? > > Thank you, > > Barbara Ferdinand > Pabaferd@Juno.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/ From amar@shrishakti.com Wed Apr 3 09:52:44 2002 From: amar@shrishakti.com (amar@shrishakti.com) Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 09:52:44 GMT Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: <20020403095244.9209.qmail@mail.emigratus.com> Dear Mr. Vijaya Sekhar, Hello and at the outset, I would like to introduce myself as Amar Seshu PASAPULA from Hyderabad and I was just browsing the net when I caught your surname and I thought I will just get in touch with you. I am also an Agri Grad from APAU with my masters in Management. Keep in touch, lets know more about each other as our surname is same and hence our roots should meet some where........... Regards, Amar. ************************* AMAR SESHU PASAPULA. 724 2133(R). 790 5050/5252/5353 (O). 98490 61052 (M). ************************* From landrews226738@comcast.net Wed Apr 3 13:49:03 2002 From: landrews226738@comcast.net (landrews226738@comcast.net) Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 06:49:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204031349.g33Dn3i22067@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a Kiefer pear tree that has been in my back yard for about a year. The strange thing is, the new leaves come out in a normal fashion. Then the edges turn black and they curl up and fall off. The tree is alive and seems to be in a normal plant cycle for spring. The ground is typically pathetic but usual for Tucson (brown, sandy, hard and nothing like the "gumbo" I'm used to from the Red River Valley area. But the rest of the yard is o.k. I water regularly and dug out a HUGE DEEP hole when I planted it. What the heck is it? Lauree Andrews Somebody who came from fertile farm land and is amazed that ANYTHING grows here! From gardenguru" Message-ID: <014f01c1db3e$755effe0$0b5594ce@ibm22761658747> Tomatoes do need to be fert regularly during their growing period. Bone meal does not provide all the nutrients your tomatoes need to bloom, set fruit and develop good foliage. Your water schdule sounds OK for plants in the ground. Any fert for tomatoes or veg will do. Basil does not do well in the shade, it need full AZ sun to thrive. Dig out the plants, place them in a container and move it to full sun or relocate them to a sunny spot in your garden. The county has good docs to help you w/ your tomatoes. they are avail for $1 from the address below. They are not yet avail online. Q295 Tomatoes MC22 Tomatoes in Desert Gardens Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Hope this helps GG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, April 01, 2002 10:24 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I planted 1gallon "Sweet 100" cherry tomatoes in early March. My garden is raised about a foot and is about 30'long by 3'wide. I added a bag of Kellogs mulch and turned the soil before planting. I put bone meal in the bottom of each hole and I water about 1 hour every 3 to 4 days. My plants look yellowish and shriveled. Am I watering too much? Do I need to fertilize? Also, the basil I planted at the shadier end of the garden looks poor. What do you think about that? Thanks for your help. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From gardenguru" Message-ID: <016101c1db3f$17004200$0b5594ce@ibm22761658747> Tomatoes need to be fert regularly during their growing period. It is important to provide all the nutrients your tomatoes need to bloom, set fruit and develop good foliage. Any fert for tomatoes or veg will do. Consistent watering is important for healthly tomatoes. The county has good docs to help you w/ your tomatoes. they are avail for $1 from the address below. They are not yet avail online. Q295 Tomatoes MC22 Tomatoes in Desert Gardens Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Hope this helps GG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, April 02, 2002 2:38 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > my tomatoes leaves are turning yellow at the bottom of the plant. I'm not over watering. > What will help? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From pgehlker@fastq.com Wed Apr 3 22:10:33 2002 From: pgehlker@fastq.com (pgehlker@fastq.com) Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 15:10:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204032210.g33MAXi26382@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a beautiful orchid that needs to be repotted. What soil medium should I use? I really do not know how to care for orchids and have simply been lucky with this one. Please advise. Thanks From mmb@storyteller.net Wed Apr 3 22:59:12 2002 From: mmb@storyteller.net (Michelle B) Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 15:59:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Summer sun-loving flowers Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020403154642.00b3c380@mail.storyteller.net> I'm putting in a new raised 14 ft by 2 ft planter at the back of my porch. It will have a 1 ft overhang. This planter will face southwest and full sun from mid-morning thru the rest of the day. So, I am looking for sun-worshipping flowers! I would love to hear folk's tried-and-true suggestions. Thanks! Michelle, in Avondale From labs5@cox.net Thu Apr 4 00:51:57 2002 From: labs5@cox.net (labs5@cox.net) Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 17:51:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204040051.g340pv914356@Ag.arizona.edu> I recently started a compost pile which seems to be doing pretty good. Good temperature, steam rising when I turn the pile. However, I just recently noticed a roach crawling out of it and I also seem to have a swarm of fruit flies that hang out over the bin. Which bugs are beneficial and which are considered pests, and what is the best way to get rid of the pests? - Thanks From b.roberts@direcway.com Thu Apr 4 05:48:33 2002 From: b.roberts@direcway.com (b.roberts@direcway.com) Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 22:48:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204040548.g345mX911103@Ag.arizona.edu> I would appreciate it if you could help me. I had a tangerine tree planted by a nursery approximately 1 1/2 years ago. Last year and this year the top of almost all branches die and turn black about 2 to 4 inches down from the tip. I asked questions and most people say I am watering to much. I started watering about every 15 days now and it started dieing about 2 weeks ago. Their is many tips of branches dead. I live in Sun Lakes, AZ 85248 Thank You, Barry W. Roberts From ldcolgan@earthlink.net Thu Apr 4 15:42:45 2002 From: ldcolgan@earthlink.net (ldcolgan@earthlink.net) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 08:42:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204041542.g34Fgj920666@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a north south facing home. My front yard has desert landscape. I have two semi cirle beds near the driveway that does not get a whole lot of sun. Can you recommend something that would do well in these spots? I currently have lantanas in these beds, but they don't seem to do real well. They are just there and look a little sad. I also have two other spots in the front that need some shade plants. I have put a few boxwood plants, but they are not doing so well either. Please recommend some shade toleratant plants for my front yard. Thank you From mmb@storyteller.net Thu Apr 4 16:58:31 2002 From: mmb@storyteller.net (Michelle B) Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 09:58:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Summer sun-loving flowers Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020404095549.00b2f5a0@mail.storyteller.net> Thanks for your response. Actually, at this point I have few requirements, the most important being sun-loving flowers. As the planter will border the lawn on one side and the porch on the other, the plants really shouldn't be wider than 4 ft max., preferably smaller. Will be no foot traffic thru the planter. Yes on pots. Fragrance, butterflies, hummers nice but not requirements. I am looking, quite honestly, for the "laundry list'," of flowers that do exceptionally well in the summer sun. I am researching all the plants I hear of that sound like they might work, so that the ones I finally choose will have similar watering, drainage and soil requirements. I do have several of Sunset's books, including Perennials, which I fly to whenever I catch another flower's name. I appreciate your help! Thank you. Michelle At 05:32 PM 4/3/02 -0700, you wrote: Are you looking for fragrance ? Height ? a stacked look, with smaller stuff in front ? Do you have any pet / kid traffic to worry about ? Is the back of the planter up against a wall, or does it " front " on the porch ? Do you want to attract any particular kinds of wildlife ? Hummingbirds ? Butterflies ? Do you want a continuous display of flowers, or just one big splash in spring ? There are lots of plants that will fit your requirements; your question is too open-ended. I'd use perennials / flowering shrubs at the back, then layer other stuff in front. It may be a few seasons before you get exactly what you want; be patient. This months " Sunset " magazine has a great section on perennials. Go to the nursery and ask them, look around and see what you like. Do a little more research then go for it. Are you going to put in drip irrigation on a timer, or will you always be there to water ? Can you integrate pots into the design ? A little more info, and I might be able to give you some useful solutions as opposed to a litany / laundry list of favorite plants. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michelle B" To: "Arid_Gardener" Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 2002 3:59 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Summer sun-loving flowers > I'm putting in a new raised 14 ft by 2 ft planter at the back of my porch. > It will have a 1 ft overhang. This planter will face southwest and full sun > from mid-morning thru the rest of the day. So, I am looking for > sun-worshipping flowers! I would love to hear folk's tried-and-true > suggestions. > > Thanks! > Michelle, in Avondale From old.bear.62@yahoo.com Thu Apr 4 18:01:18 2002 From: old.bear.62@yahoo.com (old.bear.62@yahoo.com) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 11:01:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204041801.g34I1I906798@Ag.arizona.edu> From old.bear.62@yahoo.com Thu Apr 4 18:04:07 2002 From: old.bear.62@yahoo.com (old.bear.62@yahoo.com) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 11:04:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204041804.g34I47907770@Ag.arizona.edu> I want to plant sod. Could you recommend a type that withstands heavy traffic. Also what soil amendments should I till into the soil before laying the sod down? Thank You. From gkparkin@srpnet.com Thu Apr 4 18:31:17 2002 From: gkparkin@srpnet.com (gkparkin@srpnet.com) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 11:31:17 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204041831.g34IVH916361@Ag.arizona.edu> My tomatoe plants are being eaten by a big green worm with a horn on its head. How do I get rid of them? From copper@bargainsail.com Thu Apr 4 19:14:12 2002 From: copper@bargainsail.com (Copper Bittner) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 12:14:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Summer sun-loving flowers In-Reply-To: <4.3.2.7.2.20020404095549.00b2f5a0@mail.storyteller.net> Message-ID: Hi Michelle, There is an on-line publication from the Maricopa County Extension on Flowers, requirements. It is available to download and print with no charge. Otherwise, the best source of information for these parts is the Extension. This publication, Flower Planting Guide for the Low Desert (1999), is also available at the Extension for $1.00 There are many gardening related publications available there. Copper Bittner Master Gardener Chandler, AZ Maricopa County -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Michelle B Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 9:59 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Cc: Mark Mittelstaedt Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Summer sun-loving flowers Thanks for your response. Actually, at this point I have few requirements, the most important being sun-loving flowers. As the planter will border the lawn on one side and the porch on the other, the plants really shouldn't be wider than 4 ft max., preferably smaller. Will be no foot traffic thru the planter. Yes on pots. Fragrance, butterflies, hummers nice but not requirements. I am looking, quite honestly, for the "laundry list'," of flowers that do exceptionally well in the summer sun. I am researching all the plants I hear of that sound like they might work, so that the ones I finally choose will have similar watering, drainage and soil requirements. I do have several of Sunset's books, including Perennials, which I fly to whenever I catch another flower's name. I appreciate your help! Thank you. Michelle At 05:32 PM 4/3/02 -0700, you wrote: Are you looking for fragrance ? Height ? a stacked look, with smaller stuff in front ? Do you have any pet / kid traffic to worry about ? Is the back of the planter up against a wall, or does it " front " on the porch ? Do you want to attract any particular kinds of wildlife ? Hummingbirds ? Butterflies ? Do you want a continuous display of flowers, or just one big splash in spring ? There are lots of plants that will fit your requirements; your question is too open-ended. I'd use perennials / flowering shrubs at the back, then layer other stuff in front. It may be a few seasons before you get exactly what you want; be patient. This months " Sunset " magazine has a great section on perennials. Go to the nursery and ask them, look around and see what you like. Do a little more research then go for it. Are you going to put in drip irrigation on a timer, or will you always be there to water ? Can you integrate pots into the design ? A little more info, and I might be able to give you some useful solutions as opposed to a litany / laundry list of favorite plants. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michelle B" To: "Arid_Gardener" Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 2002 3:59 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Summer sun-loving flowers > I'm putting in a new raised 14 ft by 2 ft planter at the back of my porch. > It will have a 1 ft overhang. This planter will face southwest and full sun > from mid-morning thru the rest of the day. So, I am looking for > sun-worshipping flowers! I would love to hear folk's tried-and-true > suggestions. > > Thanks! > Michelle, in Avondale _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Apr 4 20:40:32 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 13:40:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Asparagus References: Message-ID: <3CACBA3F.6B7253C2@qwest.net> We have a publication specifically addessing asparagus at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Vegetable There was also a good writeup about it in the Nov/Dec 1998 issue of the Horticultural Communicator http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/hortcom.htm which for some reason isn't listed there, so when you call extension to order the publication, ask if someone can copy pages 8 & 9 of this for you. Since you've planted one year old crowns, you have only one more year to wait for harvesting. Had you planted seed, you'd have a three year proposition on your hands. All spears that are not harvested become the ferny stalks you are seeing. The plant is producing and storing nutrients in the rhizome now, so let all the ferns appear. Gradually cover the crowns with soil to a depth of 4 to 6 inches. Ferns will go completely dormant in the fall, after which they should be removed. There's lots more cultural advice, as well as info on pests and harvesting in the two items I've noted above. Linda Guy, MG Jim Bayers wrote: > Hi All, > > Thanks for your help in the past. > > I put some asparagus crowns in. I've never grown it before. There's a > bunch of asparagus sprouts coming up forming ferns. > > Some crowns have sent up two or three stalks, others just one. Do I want > one stalk for each crown? > > They won't produce anything for a year right? > > Thanks, > > - Jim > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Apr 4 20:45:10 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 13:45:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Avocado References: <200203251830.g2PIUag17812@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3CACBB56.F27C51CB@qwest.net> In the low deserts of Phoenix, avocados are not likely to produce, although can become a nice plant with some care. We've had similar questions in the past, and you can search our archives for 'avocados' at http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/ Some previous answers are: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-May/004324.html http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2002-January/009965.html Good luck! Linda Guy, MG southerlandg@ci.merced.ca.us wrote: > I would like to know the best planting methods for alvocado trees. How far from fences,building sprinkler lines etc., should I plant them. What precautions should I take throughout the year to make sure damage does not occur. How long does it take to produce fruit? I currently have two in 5 gal. bought from nursery. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Apr 4 20:48:37 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 13:48:37 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning a neighbor's tree References: <200203271633.g2RGXqg09575@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3CACBC24.79DFC0DC@qwest.net> You could invite the neighbors to your house to read up on proper pruning techniques as described in our online Master Gardener Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ You will all see that the best cuts are done at the collar at the base of a branch, near but not flush with the trunk. Then together you can decide which are the best cuts to make to keep the tree from encroaching in your areas. Linda Guy, MG susan.e.wittrock@intel.com wrote: > I need to know the proper procedure to trim a neighbors tree branches that are encroaching into my RV gravel driveway. Can I trim the branches back myself, should I try to contact him about the issue. I would rather try to catch this now before the branches get very big and a trimming could throw off its balance or even damage it. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Apr 4 20:52:45 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 13:52:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapes References: <200203271649.g2RGnrg13409@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3CACBD1D.A6F0DD4C@qwest.net> Is this some sort of fertilizer? If so, it is not discussed in our Backyard Grapes Publication [MC 59]. You can order this at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Homeowners usually over rather than underfertilize, according to this pub. Fertilization frequency and amount is dependent on the age of the vines. Linda Guy, MG bteagle@worldnet.att.net wrote: > I wanr to know the correct timing for applying Gibberilic (spelling??) Acid to my grapes to increase their size. What size should the grapes be and how often to apply also the best method for application. > > I have thompson seedless, perlette and flame seedless grapes. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Apr 4 20:57:26 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 13:57:26 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tomato Hornworms References: <200204041831.g34IVH916361@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3CACBE36.7B3FFC4C@qwest.net> Because they are so easily found, the recommended management practice is to pick them off by hand. http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/insects/tomatohornworms.html Linda Guy, MG gkparkin@srpnet.com wrote: > My tomatoe plants are being eaten by a big green > worm with a horn on its head. How do I get rid of them? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From cynthiabrookeholy@hotmail.com Thu Apr 4 21:45:18 2002 From: cynthiabrookeholy@hotmail.com (cynthiabrookeholy@hotmail.com) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 14:45:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204042145.g34LjI920282@Ag.arizona.edu> I live in the south part of Chandler and am relatively new here (1&1/2 yrs). Am wondering when I should start my summer watering schedule? It seems to have gotten warm very quickly and I am afraid that my spring watering schedule may not be enough. We have desert landscape in our front yard and landscaping with Bermuda grass in the back. My spring watering is on an every 2 week cycle: Shrubs 1&1/2 hrs, trees 4hrs, & lawn 45 min. Summer watering: shrubs weekly for 1hr, trees every 2 weeks for 2hrs, & lawn every 3 days for 30min. Thank you for your help. From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu Apr 4 23:13:52 2002 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 16:13:52 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapes/Gibberellic Acid References: <200203271649.g2RGnrg13409@Ag.arizona.edu> <3CACBD1D.A6F0DD4C@qwest.net> Message-ID: <003501c1dc2e$72b119e0$4950530c@j0r9501> Gibberellic Acid is a plant growth regulator used by commercial grape growers to force grape production and to produce larger grapes. In my experience, grapes tend to be very small if one does not use it. GA has normally been available only in very large concentrated quantities but I have seen it recently in some garden centers in smaller, diluted quantities suitable for use by home gardeners. GA is applying by spraying the bunches in two applications (according to Pub. MC59) - the first application at the last blooming stage and the 2nd one week after. GA is also used to overcome seed dormancy, promote premature flowering, increase fruit set, as an aid in cross-pollination and a few other applications. It is also said to reduce seed content but I have not observed this. There has been some concern about bunch rot from use of GA. You might want to research this before using it ( search using keywords "Gibberellic acid" +grape). I haven't grown grapes for a few years but as I recall it was somewhat expensive. Olin Miller ----- Original Message ----- From: "Linda Guy" To: Cc: "Arid_gardener" Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 1:52 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapes > Is this some sort of fertilizer? If so, it is not discussed in our Backyard Grapes Publication [MC 59]. You can order this at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm > > Homeowners usually over rather than underfertilize, according to this pub. Fertilization frequency and amount is dependent on the age of the vines. > > Linda Guy, MG > > bteagle@worldnet.att.net wrote: > > > I wanr to know the correct timing for applying Gibberilic (spelling??) Acid to my grapes to increase their size. What size should the grapes be and how often to apply also the best method for application. > > > > I have thompson seedless, perlette and flame seedless grapes. > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From umiller@azdps.com Thu Apr 4 22:58:29 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 15:58:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tomato Hornworms In-Reply-To: <3CACBE36.7B3FFC4C@qwest.net> Message-ID: And then what do you do with them - after you pick them off? Shoot them? They are soooo big! You can also use Dipel Dust which is specifically made for hornworms and other critters of that ilk. Most nurseries carry it. Someone at this site gave me this advice last year when I found one in my yard. I immediately bought the dust and then the creature disappeared - never to be seen again. Never got to use the dust. I guess he was a loner. But I'm armed in case he brings his buddies with him next time. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Linda Guy Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 1:57 PM To: gkparkin@srpnet.com Cc: Arid_gardener Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tomato Hornworms Because they are so easily found, the recommended management practice is to pick them off by hand. http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/insects/tomatohornworms.html Linda Guy, MG gkparkin@srpnet.com wrote: > My tomatoe plants are being eaten by a big green > worm with a horn on its head. How do I get rid of them? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu Apr 4 23:28:27 2002 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 16:28:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tomato Hornworms References: Message-ID: <006901c1dc30$abe161a0$4950530c@j0r9501> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ursula Miller" > ... > And then what do you do with them - after you pick them off? Shoot them? > They are soooo big! > ... Set them in a tray on a bare spot of ground away from the tomato plants - the birds will find them. This works. Or put in a container too high for them to crawl out of. Maybe the Sphinx moths will get the message and lay their eggs elsewhere (this probably doesn't work but the worms will die). Olin From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Thu Apr 4 23:47:55 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 15:47:55 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question on orchids In-Reply-To: <200204032210.g33MAXi26382@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20020404234755.56013.qmail@web14903.mail.yahoo.com> there is a potting mix for orchids and books on care. Bothavailable at your garden center --- pgehlker@fastq.com wrote: > I have a beautiful orchid that needs to be repotted. > What soil medium should I use? I really do not know > how to care for orchids and have simply been lucky > with this one. Please advise. > > Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/ From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Apr 5 01:03:56 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 20:03:56 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Landscape Irrigation Message-ID: <124.e97392c.29de51fc@aol.com> --part1_124.e97392c.29de51fc_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Once you have determined the amount of water required to properly irrigate your trees and plants continue to apply that amount of water each time you water. In fall, winter, and spring just simplychange the interval between irrigations. For trees water should penetrate the soil to a three foot depth, shrubs to two foot depth and grass 8 to 10 inches deep. The interval should be different for trees , shrubs and for grass. The interval will be different for desert adapted trees and plants then for non native plants. Check out these sites for info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://www.ci.phoenix.az.us/WATER/lawnguid.html#LONG Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_124.e97392c.29de51fc_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Once you have determined the amount of water required to properly irrigate your trees and plants continue to apply that amount of water each time you water. In fall, winter, and spring just simplychange the interval between irrigations. For trees water should penetrate the soil to a three foot depth, shrubs to two foot depth and grass 8 to 10 inches deep. The interval should be different for trees , shrubs and for grass. The interval will be different for desert adapted trees and plants then for non native plants.
Check out these sites for info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://www.ci.phoenix.az.us/WATER/lawnguid.html#LONG

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_124.e97392c.29de51fc_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Apr 5 01:03:58 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 20:03:58 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sod selection Message-ID: <11f.e80f2a7.29de51fe@aol.com> --part1_11f.e80f2a7.29de51fe_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The sods available for heavy traffic are Easy Turf or Bobsod, Bobsod is probably the better choice for heavy traffic, it is ths sod used in Bankone Ballpark. Information on soil preparation is available at this site: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_11f.e80f2a7.29de51fe_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The sods available for heavy traffic are Easy Turf or Bobsod, Bobsod is probably the better choice for heavy traffic, it is ths sod used in Bankone Ballpark. Information on soil preparation is available at this site:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_11f.e80f2a7.29de51fe_boundary-- From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri Apr 5 05:02:01 2002 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 22:02:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Citrus Branch Tips Dying Message-ID: <005301c1dc60$d7424460$fc52530c@j0r9501> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0025_01C1DC24.59403CC0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable On Wed, 3 Apr 2002 22:48:33 -0700 (MST) Barry W. Roberts < = b.roberts@direcway.com b.roberts@direcway.com> wrote: > I would appreciate it if you could help me. > I had a tangerine tree planted by a nursery approximately=20 > 1 1/2 years ago. Last year and this year the top of almost=20 > all branches die and turn black about 2 to 4 inches down=20 > from the tip. I asked questions and most people say I am watering > to much. I started watering about every 15 days now and it=20 > started dieing about 2 weeks ago. Their is many tips of branches=20 > dead. > I live in Sun Lakes, AZ 85248 Don't know if this might be the problem but If you push the tree too = much in the Oct-Nov time frame by either fertilizing or over watering, = it will develop tender new growth which could be susceptible to = freezing. We had a few days in the NW valley where the temperature = dropped into the high 20s this past winter. -Olin ------=_NextPart_000_0025_01C1DC24.59403CC0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

On Wed, 3 Apr 2002 22:48:33 -0700 (MST) Barry W. = Roberts=20 < b.roberts@direcway.com b.roberts@direcway.com> = wrote:

> I would appreciate it if you could help me.
> I had a = tangerine=20 tree planted by a nursery approximately

> 1 1/2 years ago. Last year and this year the top of = almost=20

> all branches die and turn black about 2 to 4 inches down =

> from the tip. I asked questions and most people say I am = watering

> to much. I started watering about every 15 days now and = it=20

> started dieing about 2 weeks ago. Their is many tips of = branches=20

> dead.
> I live in Sun Lakes, AZ 85248

Don't know if this might be the problem but If you push the tree = too much=20 in the Oct-Nov time frame by either fertilizing or over watering, it = will=20 develop tender new growth which could be susceptible to freezing. = We had a=20 few days in the NW valley where the temperature dropped into the high = 20s this=20 past winter. -Olin

------=_NextPart_000_0025_01C1DC24.59403CC0-- From Consultants@cgt-consult.com Fri Apr 5 03:05:07 2002 From: Consultants@cgt-consult.com (Consultants) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 19:05:07 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] IT Consultants Message-ID: <5BF0CCEFD5ABD41197E5004854851A0803138279@CGTSRVR> This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C1DC4E.B3767CF2 Content-Type: text/plain Hi N, CGT Consulting is one of the leading Computer Consulting Companies. We have been in the IT consulting arena for over 5 Years, providing Contract, Contract-to-Hire and permanent IT candidates. We also take on projects, which can be developed on-site, offsite or offshore. Our Consultants have experience / skills in (just a partial list): E-Commerce/WEB/JAVA/CGI/HTML, ERP's, CRM's, Oracle, Sybase, Microsoft SQL Server, Informix, Visual Basic, C++, VC++, SAP, PeopleSoft, Siebel, Tibco, Clarify, DBA's (Oracle, Sybase, Informix, ... etc), System Administrators (HP-UX, Sun Solaris, AIX, Linux, ... etc), AS-400, HP3000, Cobol, Delphi, Foxpro, Progress, Lotus Notes administration and development, Embedded Software, ASIC Engineers, Device Drivers, ASIC, Telecom engineers, ... etc. We only submit pre-screened and only the VERY Qualified candidates, based on your requirements, to you; thus saving you valuable time! All the candidates are submitted to you, at very competitive rates. We work with Clients across the country and are currently providing them with IT Resources, on a Contract, Contract-to-hire or Permanent basis. Can I help you with any of your current IT openings, (Contract or permanent)? If so, please contact me either via email or phone at 714-572-1055. Try us once, with the 2 weeks guarantee, at no cost to you, and see what we can do for you! On most consulting assignments, we are also able to offer either a 1 or 2 week trial, at no cost to you. Thank you. Naren Mistry Manager - Tel: 714-572-1055 consultants@cgt-consult.com www.cgt-consult.com Anti-SPAM Policy Disclaimer: mailto:consultants@cgt-consult.com?subject=REMOVE-IT-CONSULTANTS Under Bill s.1618 Title III passed by the 105th U. S. Congress, mail cannot be considered spam as long as we include contact information and a remove link for removal from our mailing list. If this e-mail is unsolicited, please accept our apologies and click on the following removal link: mailto:Consultants@cgt-consult.com?subject=REMOVE-IT-CONSULTANTS or reply back with REMOVE in the SUBJECT with this email address: Arid_Gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu ------_=_NextPart_001_01C1DC4E.B3767CF2 Content-Type: text/html Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable IT Consultants

Hi N,

CGT Consulting is one of the leading Computer = Consulting Companies. We have been in the IT consulting arena for over = 5 Years, providing Contract, Contract-to-Hire and permanent IT = candidates. We also take on projects, which can be developed on-site, = offsite or offshore.

Our Consultants have experience / skills in (just a = partial list):
E-Commerce/WEB/JAVA/CGI/HTML, ERP's, CRM's, Oracle, = Sybase, Microsoft SQL Server, Informix, Visual Basic, C++, VC++, SAP, = PeopleSoft, Siebel, Tibco, Clarify, DBA's (Oracle, Sybase, Informix, = ... etc), System Administrators (HP-UX, Sun Solaris, AIX, Linux, ... = etc), AS-400, HP3000, Cobol, Delphi, Foxpro, Progress, Lotus Notes = administration and development, Embedded Software, ASIC Engineers, = Device Drivers, ASIC, Telecom engineers, ... etc.

We only submit pre-screened and only the VERY = Qualified candidates, based on your requirements, to you; thus saving = you valuable time! All the candidates are submitted to you, at very = competitive rates.

We work with Clients across the country and are = currently providing them with IT Resources, on a Contract, = Contract-to-hire or Permanent basis.

Can I help you with any of your current IT openings, = (Contract or permanent)? If so, please contact me either via email or = phone at 714-572-1055.

Try us once, with the 2 weeks guarantee, at no cost = to you, and see what we can do for you! On most consulting assignments, = we are also able to offer either a 1 or 2 week trial, at no cost to = you.

Thank you.

Naren Mistry
Manager - Tel: 714-572-1055
consultants@cgt-consult.com
www.cgt-consult.com

Anti-SPAM Policy Disclaimer:
mailto:consultants@cgt-consult.com?subject=3DREMOVE-IT-CONSULTANTS
Under Bill s.1618 Title III passed by the 105th U. = S. Congress, mail cannot be considered spam as long as we include = contact information and a remove link for removal from our mailing = list. If this e-mail is unsolicited, please accept our apologies and = click on the following removal link: mailto:Consultants@cgt-consult.com?subject=3DREMOVE-IT-CONSULTANTS or reply back with REMOVE in the SUBJECT with this email address: = Arid_Gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu

------_=_NextPart_001_01C1DC4E.B3767CF2-- From melweisberg@yahoo.com Fri Apr 5 14:45:21 2002 From: melweisberg@yahoo.com (melweisberg@yahoo.com) Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 07:45:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204051445.g35EjL900353@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a sweet acacia that was recently diagnosed with black slime. I was told this was fatal and the tree needs to be removed. Is this true? How long can a tree last with this type of infection? From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Apr 5 15:37:59 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2002 08:37:59 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bermuda Removal References: <200203251656.g2PGu6g25525@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3CADC4D7.ED58E672@qwest.net> Most would suggest using a systemic [kills the plant by moving into its 'system' but remains inert in the soil] such as Roundup or Finale. Multiple applications are usually required, with normal lawn care [read: irrigation] in between applications. A vigorously growing lawn will 'ingest' the systemic better and require fewer applications. Watering will also show you where there is still life left in the turf. The queen palms should be protected from any spray. Continue to give them good care while you are addressing the turf removal. If in doubt, review our publication on palm trees at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Ornamentals Linda Guy, MG Linda Guy, MG linda.l.van@boeing.com wrote: > How do I permantely remove Bermuda Grass from around Queen Ann Palms without harming the Palms? There is approximately 200 square feet of grass. In the center of that area is another area with the Quesn Ann Palms. The grass is about 2 feet away from the base of the Palms. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Apr 5 15:42:28 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2002 08:42:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rabbit Management References: <200203291845.g2TIjdg17176@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3CADC5E3.74F8B73D@qwest.net> The 'formula' is a barrier of some kind. Management techniques are discussed at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/animals/rabbit.htm Use the searach function to see the discussions about rabbits that have taken place in the past in this forum. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/question.htm We are having very dry times and rabbits will basically eat anything. You'll notice tha cages around many plants, even at the Desert Botanical Gardens. fhersh@iopener.net wrote: > A formula in order to deter rabbits from nibbling on our roses and other plants? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Apr 5 15:44:35 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2002 08:44:35 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [Insects Eating Mexican Evening Primrose] References: <20020330160602.15826.qmail@uwdvg001.cms.usa.net> Message-ID: <3CADC663.91F3DFF2@qwest.net> Unfortunately, entomology is not my specialty. I have two other suggestions. One is to peruse the entomology section of the MG Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ The second is to call, or even visit [critter in tow] the nearest Cooperative Extension Office or Satellite, which are listed on the same page where you placed your question originally. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/question.htm Good luck to you! Linda Guy, MG Stan Eissinger wrote: > The insects are about 3/16 inch long. They are black with an indistinct head > and a pointed posterior. They look like small worms to the naked eye. They > crawl onto the plant and eat the leaves and stems. I have tried liquid soap, > garlic and peppers, and rubbing alcohol. They are still at it. Any help you > can give would be appreciated. Thank You. > > wrote: > Flea beetles, which are several colors, are known to love Mexican evening > primrose, but their larva are whitish, according to the summary below. > http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/flea-btl.htm > Does this describe your problem, and if not, can you give us more info to > help > identify the pest. > > Linda Guy, MG > > Stan Eissinger wrote: > > > Small black, larva-like insects are rapidly eating my Mexican Evening > > Primrose. Does anyone know or an organic method of getting rid of them. > > Thanks > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From melweisberg@yahoo.com Fri Apr 5 18:37:59 2002 From: melweisberg@yahoo.com (melweisberg@yahoo.com) Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 11:37:59 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204051837.g35Ibx909833@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a sweet acacia that was recently diagnosed with black slime. I was told this was fatal and the tree needs to be removed. Is this true? How long can a tree last with this type of infection? From Beverlyfz@aol.com Fri Apr 5 19:16:31 2002 From: Beverlyfz@aol.com (Beverlyfz@aol.com) Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 14:16:31 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mold on Cukes Message-ID: <16e.b94d4bf.29df520f@aol.com> I often have trouble with mold on stuff in my greenhouse. I avoid wetting the leaves, but my cucumbers got wet. Last week I sprayed a recommended mixture of water with baking soda and blue dish soap on my cucumbers to try to get rid of mold that suddenly appeared the day before. They were neat compact plants a few weeks old about the size of a baseball. The next morning they were dead. Why do you suppose it killed them, or was it the mold that did them in? What should I try next time? Thx, Beverly From fgp2alp@aol.com Fri Apr 5 19:27:41 2002 From: fgp2alp@aol.com (fgp2alp@aol.com) Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 12:27:41 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204051927.g35JRf924513@Ag.arizona.edu> My Chilean mesquite has curled new growth but the new growth then dies up and falls off. My question is: How often and how long should we be watering it. It is on a drip system which has 4 drippers per the tree. Should we feed it? The tree is 3 yrs old. Plus should it be trimmed and when is a good time to prune or trim . Thankyou for any tips you could provide us. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Apr 5 21:24:39 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 16:24:39 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Watering Mesquite Message-ID: <9a.2379c7ea.29df7017@aol.com> --part1_9a.2379c7ea.29df7017_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit With the warmer than normal weather and no rainfall for several months your Mesquite tree probably needs water. Deep watering every two to three weeks will be adequate for your mesquite this time of year. By deep watering we mean applying enough water to penetrate 3 feet deep. The best time to prune desert adapted trees is during warm weather, remove dead , damaged and crossing branches. Usually removing the crossing branches will be enough to cut down on the sail effect of the usually thick crown on a mesquite and prevent the wind from blowing the tree over. The following sites will provide lots of info on watering and pruning: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/pruning.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_9a.2379c7ea.29df7017_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit With the warmer than normal weather and no rainfall for several months your Mesquite tree probably needs water. Deep watering every two to three weeks will be adequate for your mesquite this time of year. By deep watering we mean applying enough water to penetrate 3 feet deep.
The best time to prune desert adapted trees is during warm weather, remove dead , damaged and crossing branches. Usually removing the crossing branches will be enough to cut down on the sail effect of the usually thick crown on a mesquite and prevent the wind from blowing the tree over.
The following sites will provide lots of info on watering and pruning: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/pruning.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_9a.2379c7ea.29df7017_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Apr 5 21:34:02 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 16:34:02 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Acacia tree with black slime Message-ID: <83.18f1cf1c.29df724a@aol.com> --part1_83.18f1cf1c.29df724a_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I would suggest that you have a Certified Arborist examine your tree to confirm the diagnosis and advise as to whether the tree needs to be removed and the cost as well as the life expectancy of the tree. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_83.18f1cf1c.29df724a_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I would suggest that you have a Certified Arborist examine your tree to confirm the diagnosis and advise as to whether the tree needs to be removed and the cost as well as the life expectancy of the tree.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_83.18f1cf1c.29df724a_boundary-- From rmford1@mindspring.com Fri Apr 5 22:47:35 2002 From: rmford1@mindspring.com (Renea Ford) Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 15:47:35 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ferocactus cylindraceus discoloration Message-ID: <001301c1dcf3$e28f72a0$942eb83f@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01C1DCB9.34D02040 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Two Compass Barrel Cacti (Ferocactus cylindraceus), one grown on the = east side of a home and only watered via rain, and the other on the = south side of a home and supplemental water given occasionally, have = developed a discoloration (purplish-black) from the ground up (one-- 2 = inches up, the other 8 inches up, but entirely different ages). Needles = are still on these areas but have changed to grayish/black from the = typical yellow as well, the tissue seems hard, but so did my saguaro = that had rot. The older cactus (with no supplemental water) keeps on = blooming annually, even though the discoloration is half way up the = cactus. Are they rotting? Should I remove them because they will never = recover and will most likely continue to decay? Is this common for this = type of cactus -- I've not seen it on any other. My rotted saguaro = looked purplish/black in areas, but also more mottled with yellow/orange = discoloration. Any ideas? Renea ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01C1DCB9.34D02040 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Two Compass Barrel Cacti (Ferocactus = cylindraceus), one=20 grown on the east side of a home and only watered via rain, and the = other on the=20 south side of a home and supplemental water given occasionally, have = developed a=20 discoloration (purplish-black) from the ground up (one-- 2 inches up, = the other=20 8 inches up, but entirely different ages). Needles are still = on these=20 areas but have changed to grayish/black from the typical yellow as well, = the=20 tissue seems hard, but so did my saguaro that had rot. The older = cactus=20 (with no supplemental water) keeps on blooming annually, even = though the=20 discoloration is half way up the cactus. Are they rotting? = Should I=20 remove them because they will never recover and will most likely = continue to=20 decay? Is this common for this type of cactus -- I've not = seen it=20 on any other. My rotted saguaro looked purplish/black in areas, = but also=20 more mottled with yellow/orange discoloration. Any = ideas?

Renea

------=_NextPart_000_0010_01C1DCB9.34D02040-- From azdeetom@aol.com Sat Apr 6 16:32:25 2002 From: azdeetom@aol.com (azdeetom@aol.com) Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 09:32:25 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204061632.g36GWP911112@Ag.arizona.edu> We live in SCW.Az. We have over 15 trees in our backyard and it's very enjoyable plus shades the sun. The problem is the birds. I know they were here first but the smell of the droppings is awful. Is there something I can throw under the trees to disapate the smell. I have landscapers come every three months to blow out the yard but "that" does not get picked up...just spread around. Thank you. 4/6/02 From BethWertz@msn.com Sat Apr 6 16:59:11 2002 From: BethWertz@msn.com (BethWertz@msn.com) Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 09:59:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204061659.g36GxB914712@Ag.arizona.edu> If flowers wilt quickly and then die in my flower bed (especialy pansies and violas) is this called Texas root rot, and can I get the fungus out of the soil for next year's plantings? I don't want everything dying next year in my beds. Thanks Beth From pfrahm1819@cs.com Sat Apr 6 23:41:05 2002 From: pfrahm1819@cs.com (pfrahm1819@cs.com) Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 16:41:05 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204062341.g36Nf5914932@Ag.arizona.edu> What can I do to control or eliminate cutter bees? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Apr 7 03:05:02 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2002 03:05:02 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] cutter bees Message-ID: Here is some information from the archives: Leaf Cutter Bees make those half moon cuts in tender leaves. They are harmless and the bees are good pollinators. You can see them on tender new leaves on roses and other plants. Since they do not eat the leaves, but just use them to construct the nursery for their young, pesticides don't really do much good. Nobody I know is currently trying to control them due to the drastic reductions in the honeybee populations. The extension office and others, usually recommend just leaving them alone as their services are needed and realistically the amount of leaves they damage are minimal. re: roses Pesticides have never been shown to be effective against leaf cutter bees. We recommend floating row covers for prize plants (those to be shown in shows). And experienced rosarians know how to trim the leaves to a nice shape (there are special scissors for this). In fact I think most shows are relaxing their standards when it comes to leaves with leafcutter bee holes, at least that's what an experienced judge told me. Finally, plants can withstand a great deal of defoliation without harm. Just think how severely you prune those roses, the small amount of leaf a bee takes is much less in comparison. (I know my husband is much more dangerous with a pair of pruning shears than 100 leaf cutter bees :-)) Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: pfrahm1819@cs.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 16:41:05 -0700 (MST) > >What can I do to control or eliminate cutter bees? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From RichardSLevine@hotmail.com Sun Apr 7 03:18:28 2002 From: RichardSLevine@hotmail.com (RichardSLevine@hotmail.com) Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 20:18:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204070318.g373IR918291@Ag.arizona.edu> What is the recommended solution for removal of a "pack rat" from a pool heater equipment area? It pulls off cactus spines from the cholla just behind our back fence, leave spines on the walkway near the pool equipment, and has created a nest under the pool heater. Should I try a live trap? If so, where can I release him? From chuckm132@cox.net Sun Apr 7 06:52:21 2002 From: chuckm132@cox.net (chuckm132@cox.net) Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 23:52:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204070652.g376qL917508@Ag.arizona.edu> about four months ago we purchased a home and had grass laid down. The lawn has done very well this winter. I am concerned about the steps that I need to take to prepare my lawn for summer. If you could provide me with information on what I will need to do. thx. From Jonathan Kandell" Message-ID: <004101c1de09$57a3a960$6f39bbd0@oemcomputer> ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, April 06, 2002 8:18 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > What is the recommended solution for removal of a "pack rat" from a pool heater equipment area? It pulls off cactus spines from the cholla just behind our back fence, leave spines on the walkway near the pool equipment, and has created a nest under the pool heater. Should I try a live trap? If so, where can I release him? if you want to catch a rat you don't need a fancy cat if you want to learn the Principles don't study fine bound books the True Pearl's in a hemp sack the Buddha nature rests in huts many grasp the sack but few open it. Shih Te (Lengendary, c. 730) From Greg Poole" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_031D_01C1DE02.4A927E60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable To Cactus Jack, et al. What are the white spots on Prickly Pear - bugs = or fungus and how to treat them ?=20 Thanks Greg ------=_NextPart_000_031D_01C1DE02.4A927E60 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

To Cactus Jack, et al. What are the = white spots on=20 Prickly Pear - bugs or fungus and how to treat them ?

Thanks

Greg

------=_NextPart_000_031D_01C1DE02.4A927E60-- From Greg Poole" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_032F_01C1DE02.7FE80EE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable To all the horse folks out there. What is the best grass, grains to grow = if starting a new horse pasture.=20 thanks ------=_NextPart_000_032F_01C1DE02.7FE80EE0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

To all the horse folks out there. What = is the best=20 grass, grains to grow if starting a new horse pasture.

thanks

------=_NextPart_000_032F_01C1DE02.7FE80EE0-- From umiller@azdps.com Sun Apr 7 14:18:50 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 07:18:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Prickly Pear - White Spots In-Reply-To: <032201c1de3c$f84a2fa0$0b5594ce@ibm22761658747> Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C1DE04.77956740 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit You may have cochineal scale. Here�s a response to this question from someone in the past. I just hose mine off periodically with a strong jet of water. What you have is cochineal scale. If left untreated the cochineal multiplies and covers the plant. This is not only an eyesore; it can weaken and kill the host plant as the insect is sucking the plant juices. Here is a link that discusses the different methods of dealing with this pest. http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening/news/azdailystar/fuzz_prickly_pear.html An interesting aside is that after Cortez invaded the new world, he found the Aztecs using cochineal scale as a dye for their fabrics. The red color was not marched by anything in the old world. It soon became Spain's third most valuable export. It is still used as a coloring agent in some cosmetics and beverages. Scott Rogers MG Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Greg Poole Sent: Sunday, April 07, 2002 7:03 AM To: Master Gardener Subject: [Arid_gardener] Prickly Pear - White Spots To Cactus Jack, et al. What are the white spots on Prickly Pear - bugs or fungus and how to treat them ? Thanks Greg ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C1DE04.77956740 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Yo= u may have cochineal scale.

He= re’s a response to this question from someone in the past. I just hose mine off periodically with a strong jet = of water.

What you have is cochineal scale. If left untreated the =
cochineal multipliesand covers the plant. This is not =
only an eyesore; it can weaken and killthe host plant as the insect is =
sucking the plant juices. Here is a linkthat discusses the different =
methods of dealing with this pest.http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening/news/azdailystar/fuzz_prickly_pea=
r.html An interesting aside is that after =
Cortez invaded the new world, he foundthe Aztecs using cochineal scale =
as a dye for their fabrics. The red colorwas not marched by anything in the =
old world. It soon became Spain's thirdmost valuable export. It is still =
used as a coloring agent in some cosmeticsand beverages. Scott RogersMG

 

 

Ursula Miller

Not =
a Master
Gardener

<=
span
class=3DEmailStyle15> 

-----Original
Message-----

From:
arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu =
[mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Greg Poole

Sent: Sunday, April 07, =
2002 7:03
AM

To: Master Gardener

Subject: [Arid_gardener] =
Prickly
Pear - White Spots

 

To
Cactus Jack, et al. What are the white spots on Prickly Pear - bugs or =
fungus
and how to treat them ? 

Thanks<=
/p>

Greg<=
/p>

------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C1DE04.77956740-- From wuncent@localnet.com Sun Apr 7 14:53:00 2002 From: wuncent@localnet.com (wuncent@localnet.com) Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 07:53:00 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204071453.g37Eqx923975@Ag.arizona.edu> I have bermuda grass. A few years ago, instead of dethatching, it was mowed real low to get rid of old grass. After that, the yard never has looked as good as it did before. This year, we rented a machine to dethatch. What can I do now to get the grass to come back lush and green as it once was? The only thing I've used in the past is ammonia sulfate. Other fertilizers seemed to cause brown spots. Thank you, Linda From s2@arcworldwide.com Sun Apr 7 21:47:41 2002 From: s2@arcworldwide.com (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2002 14:47:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] New spring "adoptees" References: Message-ID: <3CB0BE7D.5B4EF118@arcworldwide.com> Hi all, We just had a fun-filled weekend stocking up on new yard "adoptees" and I have a couple questions: I managed to find 3 absolutely huge, beautiful, supple green bare-root ocotillos so I grabbed 'em. It may be a week before I can get them in the ground, so right now they are just laying on their side until we can plant them. Any care to give them/roots until we have time to dig a few holes? Also, one of the 'new discoveries' I picked up is an Emu Bush (eremophila), rainbow variety: one shrub, yellow, orange, red, lavender and pink flowers (way too pretty!). A Tucson-ite at the local plant sale said she had planted one a couple years that has thrived, but when I got home and looked it up it's listed as zones 8,9 and 14-24 in the WGB, omitting our desert zones. Says it thrives in heat though, so I'm assuming it will be ok? Anyone here with any experience with this. Also, I know its posted a zillion times a month (!), but we also brought home several new trees: mesquite, palo verde and acacia smallii for the front, arizona ash and eucalyptus for the back (which will get more water) and I want to take the best care that they establish good, deep root systems and still get enough water to grow as fast as possible (just 15 gal. size going in)... so the link to tree irrigation (that I never bookmarked cuz I never needed it!) would be swell :-). Also, since these trees are young and skinny, I was told they'll only need to be staked for about 6 months? Any support/other opinions? -- Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. Vice President, Communications & Technology ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org ===================================================== "I became convinced we are here for each other." -- R. Buckminster Fuller From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Apr 7 22:06:44 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 18:06:44 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rye Grass to Bermuda Transition Message-ID: <5f.2565b571.29e21cf4@aol.com> --part1_5f.2565b571.29e21cf4_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit We are approaching the time of year when steps need to be taken to help kill the overseeded rye grass and help the bermuda get a start, ( when the night time temperatures are consistantly over 60 degrees ).Those steps are lowering the cutting height of the rye and fertilizing with a fertilizer that contains nitrogen as well as phosphorus. The Master Gardener Manual chapter on Turf has a section on Spring Transition to Bermuda available at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_5f.2565b571.29e21cf4_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit We are approaching the time of year when steps need to be taken to help kill the overseeded rye grass and help the bermuda get a start, ( when the night time temperatures are consistantly over 60 degrees ).Those steps are lowering the cutting height of the rye and fertilizing with a fertilizer that contains nitrogen as well as phosphorus.
The Master Gardener Manual chapter on Turf has a section on Spring Transition to Bermuda available at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_5f.2565b571.29e21cf4_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Apr 7 22:06:45 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 18:06:45 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf problems Message-ID: --part1_fe.165d3217.29e21cf5_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Linda, The recommended time to dethatch or to cut as low as possible is summer when the bermuda is actively growing. The very low cut or dethatching done early in the spring causes the grass to become stressed which means that it will be slow to recover. A fertilizer containing phosphorus such as amoniun phosphate will help the roots become stronger. Amonium sulfate works well for most of the year, the exception would be the first ferilization in the spring and the last one in the fall when when a complete fertilizer should be used to encourage root growth. I don't have an explanation as to why a complete fertilizer caused brown spots in your grass unless it wasn't watered in adequately or you applied too much. It is the nitrogen in the fertilizer that can cause the grass to burn. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_fe.165d3217.29e21cf5_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Linda,

The recommended time to dethatch or to cut as low as possible is summer when the bermuda is actively growing. The very low cut or dethatching done early in the spring causes the grass to become stressed which means that it will be slow to recover. A fertilizer containing phosphorus such as amoniun phosphate will help the roots become stronger.
Amonium sulfate works well for most of the year, the exception would be the first ferilization in the spring and the last one in the fall when when a complete fertilizer should be used to encourage root growth.
I don't have an explanation as to why a complete fertilizer caused brown spots in your grass unless it wasn't watered in adequately or you applied too much. It is the nitrogen in the fertilizer that can cause the grass to burn.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_fe.165d3217.29e21cf5_boundary-- From sjbass@qwest.net Sun Apr 7 22:15:46 2002 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2002 15:15:46 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rodent control References: <200204070318.g373IR918291@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3CB0C512.E4C76D4B@qwest.net> Richard: The following link will take you to a page in our on-line Master Gardener manual concerning vertebrate pests and their control. http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/pests/intro.html Sue Bass Master Gardener RichardSLevine@hotmail.com wrote: > What is the recommended solution for removal of a "pack rat" from a pool heater equipment area? It pulls off cactus spines from the cholla just behind our back fence, leave spines on the walkway near the pool equipment, and has created a nest under the pool heater. Should I try a live trap? If so, where can I release him? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Apr 7 22:45:41 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 18:45:41 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Planting and Staking Trees Message-ID: --part1_c8.24f43bf1.29e22615_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Sherryl, Sounds like you have your work cut out to plant all those trees and shrubs next week. Besure to allow plenty of room for the ash and the eucalyptus, the ash can grow to 30 to 50 feet tall. I would suggest that you dig the tree holes the day before you plant and fill the holes with water, if the holes do not contain water the next day your drainage is ok. Dig the holes the depth of the root ball and 3x wide. Be sure the root ball is watered adequately after planting, allow the hose to run until the hole will not take any more water. If the trees will not stand up by themselves they will require double staking, remove the stake that came from the nursery. It usually will be a year before you can remove the double stakes. The link for irrigation is: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html In that same chapter of the Master Gardener Manual is lots of info on planting and tree care. Since I don't have any experience with planting ocotillos and Emu Bush I'll leave those for others to answer. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_c8.24f43bf1.29e22615_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Sherryl,

Sounds like you have your work cut out to plant all those trees and shrubs next week. Besure to allow plenty of room for the ash and the eucalyptus, the ash can grow to 30 to 50 feet tall. I would suggest that you dig the tree holes the day before you plant and fill the holes with water, if the holes do not contain water the next day your drainage is ok.
Dig the holes the depth of the root ball and 3x wide. Be sure the root ball is watered adequately after planting, allow the hose to run until the hole will not take any more water.
If the trees will not stand up by themselves they will require double staking, remove the stake that came from the nursery. It usually will be a year before you can remove the double stakes.
The link for irrigation is: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html
In that same chapter of the Master Gardener Manual is lots of info on planting and tree care.
Since I don't have any experience with planting ocotillos and Emu Bush I'll leave those for others to answer.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_c8.24f43bf1.29e22615_boundary-- From bluesjam@hotmail.com Sun Apr 7 23:48:11 2002 From: bluesjam@hotmail.com (bluesjam@hotmail.com) Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 16:48:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204072348.g37NmB912055@Ag.arizona.edu> I want to raise the grade on my property,and my only concern is a large mature black walnut tree that sits on the edge of my lot in a lower elevation.Will it kill the tree if the soil is raised about two feet up the trunk? Thank you for your time JIM From marriportia@yahoo.com Mon Apr 8 01:52:06 2002 From: marriportia@yahoo.com (marriportia@yahoo.com) Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 18:52:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204080152.g381q6902108@Ag.arizona.edu> 1. I recently planted some bare root almond trees. They dont appear to be doing so well. I have been deep watering every other day, fertilized 2x, 10 days apart. And treated w/B12 at time of planting. Any other suggestions aside from just being patient!? 2. I have tons of mexican fan palms sprouting up in my yard. I would like to share them w/friend but have never been successful w/transplanting. Suggestions? Thank you Marri From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Mon Apr 8 03:09:22 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 20:09:22 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200204080152.g381q6902108@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20020408030922.93742.qmail@web14905.mail.yahoo.com> YES,stop being a mother to them. If in fact you are watering deep(about 2-3 feet deep), you are drowning them. They should be watered 2-3 feet deep every 7-14 days for about the first 3-5 months then every 10-20 days.Don't fertilize them this year --- marriportia@yahoo.com wrote: > 1. I recently planted some bare root almond trees. > They dont appear to be doing so well. I have been > deep watering every other day, fertilized 2x, 10 > days apart. And treated w/B12 at time of planting. > Any other suggestions aside from just being > patient!? > 2. I have tons of mexican fan palms sprouting up in > my yard. I would like to share them w/friend but > have never been successful w/transplanting. > Suggestions? > > Thank you Marri > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/ From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Mon Apr 8 03:12:54 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 20:12:54 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200204072348.g37NmB912055@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20020408031254.99094.qmail@web14910.mail.yahoo.com> In a word, Yes , it will kill the tree by rotting the trunk. Try to design your lanscape as to leave the tree where its at or remove it and replant it after you change the grade. --- bluesjam@hotmail.com wrote: > I want to raise the grade on my property,and my only > concern is a large mature black > walnut tree that sits on the edge of my lot in a > lower elevation.Will it kill the tree if the soil is > raised about two feet up the trunk? > Thank you for your time > JIM > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/ From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Apr 8 03:17:24 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2002 20:17:24 -0700 Subject: [Fwd: [Arid_gardener] Rabbit Management] Message-ID: <3CB10BC4.7EDAFB32@qwest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------9AF1360A27C12BB9D56553EA Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Scott raises a valid strategy which I have previously discussed with folks out Fountain Hills and Wickenburg way. One fellow put water beyond view of his home to keep critters happy and out of his immediate yard. I think his particular concern was javelina, but I don't know why this isn't worth trying for other troublesome vertebrates. Thanks for the refresher Scott. Linda Guy, MG --------------9AF1360A27C12BB9D56553EA Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 12695 invoked by uid 0); 7 Apr 2002 11:24:58 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO mail3.uswest.net) (63.226.138.3) by mpls-mailin-03.inet.qwest.net with SMTP; 7 Apr 2002 11:24:58 -0000 Received: (qmail 30702 invoked by uid 0); 7 Apr 2002 11:24:58 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO harrier.prod.itd.earthlink.net) (207.217.120.12) by mail3.uswest.net with SMTP; 7 Apr 2002 11:24:58 -0000 Received: from cpe-66-1-197-220.az.sprintbbd.net ([66.1.197.220] helo=4gkyk01) by harrier.prod.itd.earthlink.net with smtp (Exim 3.33 #1) id 16uAn3-0001Qw-00 for lindaguy@qwest.net; Sun, 07 Apr 2002 04:24:58 -0700 Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 04:24:46 -0700 Message-ID: <011a01c1de26$d34013c0$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> From: "Scott Rogers" To: "Linda Guy" References: <200203291845.g2TIjdg17176@Ag.arizona.edu> <3CADC5E3.74F8B73D@qwest.net> Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Rabbit Management MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.50.4807.1700 X-MIMEOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.50.4807.1700 X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 When I took the MG program, Terry Mikal said that the rabbits were basically after moisture and that if we had a pan of water for them, it would significantly reduce the amount of damage they did to plants. Have you had any experience doing this? Scott Rogers ----- Original Message ----- From: "Linda Guy" To: Cc: "Arid_gardener" Sent: Friday, April 05, 2002 8:42 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rabbit Management > The 'formula' is a barrier of some kind. Management techniques are discussed at > http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/animals/rabbit.htm > > Use the searach function to see the discussions about rabbits that have taken place > in the past in this forum. > http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/question.htm > > We are having very dry times and rabbits will basically eat anything. You'll notice > tha cages around many plants, even at the Desert Botanical Gardens. > > fhersh@iopener.net wrote: > > > A formula in order to deter rabbits from nibbling on our roses and other plants? > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > --------------9AF1360A27C12BB9D56553EA-- From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Mon Apr 8 03:18:07 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 20:18:07 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] New spring "adoptees" In-Reply-To: <3CB0BE7D.5B4EF118@arcworldwide.com> Message-ID: <20020408031807.3391.qmail@web14909.mail.yahoo.com> First of all, Stand the ocotillo up against something. Keep them moist by watering them every other day including the canes. Palms transplant easy in warm wheather. Be sure to get as much root as top and tie up the fronds as to shade the new center growth. --- Sherryl Stalinski wrote: > Hi all, > We just had a fun-filled weekend stocking up on new > yard "adoptees" and > I have a couple questions: > > I managed to find 3 absolutely huge, beautiful, > supple green bare-root > ocotillos so I grabbed 'em. It may be a week before > I can get them in > the ground,