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From fergy6232@yahoo.com Mon Apr 1 00:26:14 2002 From: fergy6232@yahoo.com (fergy6232@yahoo.com) Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 17:26:14 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204010026.g310QEg22844@Ag.arizona.edu> Hi, how do you transplant Mexican or CA. Palms? I have 2 that were against the foundation & I moved them to the center of the back yard. They are about 18" high + 4 ' of fronds. I was told to tie the fronds together very tight until new fronds appear in the center (2 weeks, not yet). I give them 5 gal. of water every a.m. Anything else I should be doing? Someone said I should untie the fronds and cut back the bottom ones? Any help would be appreciated. Also, I get irrigation in a couple of weeks. Thanks, Bill From joanne@dcsinter.net Mon Apr 1 00:57:30 2002 From: joanne@dcsinter.net (joanne@dcsinter.net) Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 17:57:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204010057.g310vUg27319@Ag.arizona.edu> I am having problems with yellowing of my evergreen fruitless pear trees leaves. Can you give any ideas of what it might be lacking. Thank you, Joanne From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Apr 1 02:55:11 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 21:55:11 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pear tree with yellow leaves Message-ID: --part1_f8.1914dab6.29d9260f_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Joanne, Yellow leaves can be caused by either over or under watering. If you didn't change your watering for winter time watering then the cause is probably over watering. If you did cut back on the watering for winter and you haven't increased your watering with the warmer weather than the most likely cause of the yellow leaves is under watering. Check out this site for info on proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_f8.1914dab6.29d9260f_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Joanne,

Yellow leaves can be caused by either over or under watering. If you didn't change your watering for winter time watering then the cause is probably over watering. If you did cut back on the watering for winter and you haven't increased your watering with the warmer weather than the most likely cause of the yellow leaves is under watering.
Check out this site for info on proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener

--part1_f8.1914dab6.29d9260f_boundary-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Apr 1 03:48:17 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2002 03:48:17 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palms, transplanting established palms Message-ID: Here is information from the archives written by Lucy Bradley, Maricopa Urban Horticulture Agent: Large Pre-dug Palms: Large landscape palms are usually dug from established groves or landscape plantings. They must be handled gently and with care in all phases of the transplanting operation. Rough handling or bumping can damage the terminal bud and kill the tree. Once dug from the original location, palms should not be left lying out in the hot sun for long periods of time either at the digging site or at the planting site. The root ball should be kept moist, and the trunk securely braced in transit. One way to accomplish this is to cover the root ball with damp burlap. Do not use plastic for this purpose, since it will trap heat. Dug palms regenerate some roots from the cut ends, but other new roots develop from the root crown. In some species, increased root regeneration has been measured with longer cut stubs in larger root balls. Root regeneration depends on adequate water and oxygen. At times the root ball may be deeper than it is wide. In general, larger root balls make for better establishment in less than perfect conditions. Water of dug palms is stored in the trunk and lost through the leaves. For this reason, up to half of older living fronds may be removed for transport. The remaining fronds are tied together over the tender bud with a biodegradable twine to protect it from drying and sun scald. (On some species the bud may be actually splinted to protect it from breaking.) Depending on the time of year the palm is planted, the fronds should be left tied around the bud for 2 to 3 months. In arid climates, the chance of the twine actually rotting is slim. When new growth begins to bulge out below the point at which the fronds are tied, the rope may be cut to gradually release the foliage. Leave the old fronds in place for a month more to protect the bud and new leaves. The planting hole for large pre-dug palms should be only as deep as the root ball and should drain in 24 hours as discussed above. Backfill need not be amended. Loosen the soil 3 feet beyond each side of the root ball to encourage lateral root growth. Large pre-dug palms should be planted at their original planting depth. Planting too deeply may cause root suffocation due to restricted oxygen, nutritional deficiencies, root rot disease and frequently loss of the palm. Don't plant the crowns deep simply to ensure that the trees don't fall over. Large palms may be braced when installed with at least three 2x4 lumber braces (at 45=B0 from the ground) against 1 ft lengths of 2x4 that are vertically strapped or banded around the trunk. Protect the trunk with nylon, burlap, or other suitable material where the one foot lengths of 2x4 are secured. Do not nail these vertical pieces into the trunk. Supports can be removed when fronds are untied. Water large palms immediately as discussed above. Daily irrigations to a depth of 2 ft may gradually be reduced to once a week during the first warm season. Allow for differences in soil texture: clay soils will need watering less often than sandy soils. Bubbler or soaker irrigation into a built-up well should wet an area 2 feet beyond the root ball. As discussed above, drip emitters should be spaced at 2 feet and at 4 feet beyond the trunk. >From: fergy6232@yahoo.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 17:26:14 -0700 (MST) > >Hi, how do you transplant Mexican or CA. >Palms? I have 2 that were against the >foundation & I moved them to the center of >the back yard. They are about 18" high + 4 ' >of fronds. I was told to tie the fronds >together very tight until new fronds appear >in the center (2 weeks, not yet). I give them > 5 gal. of water every a.m. Anything else I >should be doing? Someone said I should untie >the fronds and cut back the bottom ones? Any >help would be appreciated. Also, I get >irrigation in a couple of weeks. Thanks, Bill > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Apr 1 03:56:13 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2002 03:56:13 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] bees, reducing number in garden Message-ID: Here is a response from the archives to a similar question. Response is from Sue Bass, Master Gardener: According to a publication we have (publication No. MC 63) on Africanized Honey Bees: away from the hive the Africanized bees are no more aggressive than any other bee or wasp. And I don't think there is an easy way to tell them apart by looking at them. The problem is they defend their hives more diligently. Many more bees will come to the defense of the hive in contrast to the common European honey bees. So unless you have a hive on your property I wouldn't be concerned. Stay away from swarms and if you see them contact a Bee Removal specialist or Pest Control company immediately. You can pick up a copy of our publication by visiting the following site for information, or stop in at the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension Center at 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix, for a copy. The number for the office is 602-470-8086. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Individual bees collecting pollen and nectar from flowers should be left alone. Bees are very important pollinators and we have seen a decline in their populations in recent years. --- If you have severe allergies to bee stings, you will need to remove insect-pollinated plants from your landscape to reduce the number of bees you might encounter in the yard. Here in the desert, water is also an important attractant for bees, so if you are allergic you may want to remove bird baths, spas, swimming pools, etc. >From: sudean@sbcglobal.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 15:42:01 -0700 (MST) > >how do you discurage honey bees around your bushes? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Apr 1 04:09:00 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2002 04:09:00 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] vitamins Message-ID: I searched the archives and did not find any publications regarding vitamin treatments. I believe all the research that has been done with vitamin treatments for plants has concluded that vitamin treatments have no effect on plant growth. Others on this list may have more information. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: bsgasta@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 11:03:21 -0700 (MST) > >What publications might you have regarding vitamin treatments for plants & >shrubs? > >thanks, > >bg > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From Pabaferd@Juno.com Mon Apr 1 15:39:39 2002 From: Pabaferd@Juno.com (Pabaferd@Juno.com) Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 08:39:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204011539.g31Fddi16648@Ag.arizona.edu> A neighbor has suggested that we add "soil sulpher" and water to help dig through the caliche layer. Will this help? Thank you, Barbara Ferdinand Pabaferd@Juno.com From ldcolgan@earthlink.net Mon Apr 1 17:17:13 2002 From: ldcolgan@earthlink.net (ldcolgan@earthlink.net) Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 10:17:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204011717.g31HHDi11268@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a wildflower garden. In the garden I have white and yellow daisies, red flax, blue flax. I am not sure if I have Arizona poppy or Mexican poppy. Don't quite know the difference. The poppies have four petals and are large flowers. I would like to know if I can pick the dried flowers save the seeds for another area in my yard that I want to convert to a wild flower garden. Any ideas of how I can go about snipping and keeping the dried flowers to be used again? Thanks From bill.gemma@crbard.com Mon Apr 1 17:24:12 2002 From: bill.gemma@crbard.com (bill.gemma@crbard.com) Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 10:24:12 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204011724.g31HOBi12871@Ag.arizona.edu> I planted 1gallon "Sweet 100" cherry tomatoes in early March. My garden is raised about a foot and is about 30'long by 3'wide. I added a bag of Kellogs mulch and turned the soil before planting. I put bone meal in the bottom of each hole and I water about 1 hour every 3 to 4 days. My plants look yellowish and shriveled. Am I watering too much? Do I need to fertilize? Also, the basil I planted at the shadier end of the garden looks poor. What do you think about that? Thanks for your help. From epcroll@aol.com Mon Apr 1 19:17:03 2002 From: epcroll@aol.com (epcroll@aol.com) Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 12:17:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204011917.g31JH3i11526@Ag.arizona.edu> In Tucson, I have a two year old potted Buddleia davidii. Location: southfacing. For the second year, the leaves are getting black spots - in the middle of the leaf. Those afflicted are turning yellow. big time problem last year - cut back all of the problem branches and leaves. Is this a fungus? What are suggested treatments. Thanks. From denisetm@hotmail.com Mon Apr 1 19:46:42 2002 From: denisetm@hotmail.com (denisetm@hotmail.com) Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 12:46:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204011946.g31Jkgi17702@Ag.arizona.edu> I live on the East Coast in Connecticut, and the Juniper (Red Cedar) has an abundance of galls on them. What can be done? Will the trees die from this? Thank you, denisetm@hotmail.com From boofie@bigfoot.com Mon Apr 1 23:22:49 2002 From: boofie@bigfoot.com (Jessica Boof Sizemore) Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 15:22:49 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] THE IMPOSSIBLE QUESTION In-Reply-To: <200203211342.g2LDgUg19164@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20020401232249.60467.qmail@web10002.mail.yahoo.com> Living in Tucson, I am looking for a ground cover that will come in THICK, will stay green with minimum watering, will be attractive, and will cover an area 6'x18' in the front yard. THe area is sparsly grassy, has a bit of weeds, and has a lot of rocks, which is the reason I don't want to work on the grass, I don't want to have to mow the front. Realizing that this is an impossible question, I will not hold my breath to long. Boof ===== Tucson, Az __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Greetings - send holiday greetings for Easter, Passover http://greetings.yahoo.com/ From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Apr 2 00:09:03 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 19:09:03 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Red Cedar Message-ID: <140.c23aa5a.29da509f@aol.com> --part1_140.c23aa5a.29da509f_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I'm sorry but I've not had any experience with the Red Cedar since it does not grow in the low desert of Arizona. I would suggest that you contact the Cooperative Extension in the county in which you live, they will no doubt have experience with the problem that you have asked about. You will find them listed under county government in your phone book. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_140.c23aa5a.29da509f_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I'm sorry but I've not had any experience with the Red Cedar since it does not grow in the low desert of Arizona.
I would suggest that you contact the Cooperative Extension in the county in which you live, they will no doubt have experience with the problem that you have asked about. You will find them listed under county government in your phone book.

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_140.c23aa5a.29da509f_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Apr 2 00:16:47 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 19:16:47 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ground cover in a rocky area Message-ID: <81.198fe6b5.29da526f@aol.com> --part1_81.198fe6b5.29da526f_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Have you considered planting myaporum in your problem area? The grass and weeds must be killed with an herbicide before planting. The myaporum will stay green year round but will not handle any foot traffic. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_81.198fe6b5.29da526f_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Have you considered planting myaporum in your problem area?
The grass and weeds must be killed with an herbicide before planting.
The myaporum will stay green year round but will not handle any foot traffic.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_81.198fe6b5.29da526f_boundary-- From dcmc32@hotmail.com Tue Apr 2 03:13:32 2002 From: dcmc32@hotmail.com (xxxx ssssssssss) Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 03:13:32 Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID:

continue my member ships "thanks"

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From zamijo@earthlink.net Tue Apr 2 05:04:42 2002 From: zamijo@earthlink.net (zamijo@earthlink.net) Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 22:04:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204020504.g3254gi02016@Ag.arizona.edu> you will think I am a nut.. but I am VERY protective of my trees. Two expensive ficus three years old..and five chinese elm , two years old. There is a lot of concrete around my trees..a block wall and a huge cement driveway. I wrapped the tree trunks in one thickness of a blanket, and then wrapped that with the white paper/fabric that you buy to put over plants to protect them from frost. I tied it on loosely with narrow plastic plant ties, the kind that stretches easily.... Is this going to prove detrimental to my trees?? I know paper tree wrap isn't good.. From sjbass@qwest.net Tue Apr 2 05:08:05 2002 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2002 22:08:05 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: hibiscus care References: <20344-3CA92F76-5778@storefull-2297.public.lawson.webtv.net> Message-ID: <3CA93CB5.90BCBFAA@qwest.net> Do you live in the Phoenix area? I have a potted hibiscus plant that was outdoors all winter and it is fine. It dropped some foliage during the winter but it is starting to sprout new leaves now. One of my favorite sources for hibiscus care is the following web site: http://www.hiddenvalleyhibiscus.com/care/index.htm What do your shrubs look like? Are they completely bare? What is the wood like? Is it still green and pliable or is it dry and does it snap off? Sue Bass PETE FOSTER wrote: > we planted hibiscus summer,2001.they show no signs of reviving so far > this spring. do you think the shrubs were killed by the winter weather? > will you provide some core tatics? > thanks, From Chris_Nichols@Dell.com Tue Apr 2 13:28:26 2002 From: Chris_Nichols@Dell.com (Chris_Nichols@Dell.com) Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 07:28:26 -0600 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <558DC7C51772B3489A342EC141F973A51F1067@AUSXMPS306.aus.amer.dell.com> http://fletcher.ces.state.nc.us/programs/nursery/metria/metria2/m24.pdf See page 12 of 18. Chris in Arid Austin USDA Zn. 8b Sunset Zn. 30 > -----Original Message----- > From: Shiu@tds.net [mailto:Shiu@tds.net] > Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2002 7:11 PM > To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > > I am looking for any information on a tree that is a hybred > and the name of it is called a Androscoggin--it is a very fst > growing tree and I am looking for any information on how well > it will do in the phoenix area and anything else that is > available on this tree. Thank you for your help > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From Greg Poole" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0020_01C1DA1C.4E470060 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I need help IDing a low mounding ground cover. It is 8 to 10 inches = high, 2/3 ft wide. Profuse Yellow daisy type flowers cover the top with = small green leaves 1/2 in long. It smell somewhat like santolina. It = survived the winter with little flower production but stayed green. If = any of you live near Sun City West, this plant is grown at the entrance = of the Art Museam at Bell Rd and the Ave. of the Arts. I hope someone = can provide the ID of this plant.=20 Thanks Greg=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0020_01C1DA1C.4E470060 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I need help IDing a low mounding ground = cover. It=20 is 8 to 10 inches high, 2/3 ft wide. Profuse Yellow daisy type flowers = cover the=20 top with small green leaves 1/2 in long. It smell somewhat like = santolina.=20 It survived the winter with little flower production but stayed green. = If any of=20 you live near Sun City West, this plant is grown at the entrance of the = Art=20 Museam at Bell Rd and the Ave. of the Arts. I hope someone can provide = the ID of=20 this plant.

Thanks

Greg

------=_NextPart_000_0020_01C1DA1C.4E470060-- From Jonathan Kandell" Message-ID: <005601c1da59$7e0cd800$6a39bbd0@oemcomputer> Rocks painted green. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jessica Boof Sizemore" To: Sent: Monday, April 01, 2002 4:22 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] THE IMPOSSIBLE QUESTION > Living in Tucson, I am looking for a ground cover that will come in > THICK, will stay green with minimum watering, will be attractive, and > will cover an area 6'x18' in the front yard. THe area is sparsly > grassy, has a bit of weeds, and has a lot of rocks, which is the reason > I don't want to work on the grass, I don't want to have to mow the > front. > Realizing that this is an impossible question, I will not hold my > breath to long. > Boof > > ===== > Tucson, Az > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Greetings - send holiday greetings for Easter, Passover > http://greetings.yahoo.com/ > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Apr 2 15:23:02 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 15:23:02 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plant ID - Yellow Groundcover Message-ID: Sounds like damianita daisy (Chrysactinia mexicana). Are the leaves needlelike? >From: "Greg Poole" >Reply-To: "Greg Poole" >To: "Mstr Gardner" >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plant ID - Yellow Groundcover >Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 07:59:24 -0700 > >I need help IDing a low mounding ground cover. It is 8 to 10 inches high, >2/3 ft wide. Profuse Yellow daisy type flowers cover the top with small >green leaves 1/2 in long. It smell somewhat like santolina. It survived the >winter with little flower production but stayed green. If any of you live >near Sun City West, this plant is grown at the entrance of the Art Museam >at Bell Rd and the Ave. of the Arts. I hope someone can provide the ID of >this plant. >Thanks >Greg _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From s2@arcworldwide.com Tue Apr 2 15:43:16 2002 From: s2@arcworldwide.com (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 08:43:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] THE IMPOSSIBLE QUESTION References: <20020401232249.60467.qmail@web10002.mail.yahoo.com> <005601c1da59$7e0cd800$6a39bbd0@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <3CA9D194.8182208B@arcworldwide.com> > Rocks painted green. Ha. How about creeping thyme or dwarf rosemary? Lantana? If rabbits aren't an issue and flowers are ok: gazania, ice plant, verbana. Creeping Thyme is actually a good grass substitute here in Tucson. Some water, but not much... even takes light foot traffic. -- Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. Vice President, Communications & Technology ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org ===================================================== "I became convinced we are here for each other." -- R. Buckminster Fuller From belaire@qwest.net Tue Apr 2 21:38:56 2002 From: belaire@qwest.net (belaire@qwest.net) Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 14:38:56 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204022138.g32Lcui09960@Ag.arizona.edu> my tomatoes leaves are turning yellow at the bottom of the plant. I'm not over watering. What will help? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Apr 2 23:08:13 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 18:08:13 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Soil sulfur Message-ID: <18d.5decd73.29db93dd@aol.com> --part1_18d.5decd73.29db93dd_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Barbara, Soil sulfur will help to loosen the soil and reduce the soil pH. It will probably also help to slightly loosen the caliche but if you have much caliche do not expect miracles. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_18d.5decd73.29db93dd_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Barbara,
Soil sulfur will help to loosen the soil and reduce the soil pH. It will probably also help to slightly loosen the caliche but if you have much caliche do not expect miracles.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_18d.5decd73.29db93dd_boundary-- From D Sparrow" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_008C_01C1DA63.186F4F50 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Some great plant ID tools - Google search engine, www.google.com =20 Type name of plant and for sites with photos add the word, photo. Some Arizona plant pages - Master gardener Arid Plant list at = http://ag.arizona.edu/pima/gardening/aridplants/aridplant_index.html=20 - http://www.desert-tropicals.com/Plants/sci_names.html Great plant list = to search on line for photos and info, encyclopedic CD available for = purchase - http://naturesongs.com/vvplants/ Website dedicated to the Flora of the = Verde Valley and Sedona=20 - http://wc.pima.edu/Bfiero/tucsonecology/plants/list_cn.htm Tucson = Desert Plants List ------=_NextPart_000_008C_01C1DA63.186F4F50 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Some great plant ID tools

- Google search engine, www.google.com

Type name of plant and for sites with photos add the=20 word, photo.

Some Arizona plant pages

- Master gardener Arid Plant list at=20 http://ag.arizona.edu/pima/gardening/aridplants/aridplant_index.html&= nbsp;

- http://www= .desert-tropicals.com/Plants/sci_names.html Great=20 plant list to search on line for photos and info, encyclopedic CD = available for=20 purchase

- http://naturesongs.com/vvplants= / Website=20 dedicated to the Flora of the Verde Valley and Sedona

- http:= //wc.pima.edu/Bfiero/tucsonecology/plants/list_cn.htm Tucson=20 Desert Plants List

------=_NextPart_000_008C_01C1DA63.186F4F50-- From inksparrow@usa.net Tue Apr 2 23:40:24 2002 From: inksparrow@usa.net (D Sparrow) Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 16:40:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plant ID - Yellow Groundcover References: Message-ID: <00ae01c1da9f$ca5d1e40$091b6541@deborahc299sug> If it's not Damianita, Dyssodia is a similar plant. (common names; golden fleece, scrubby dogweed). To ID see photos at http://www.naturesongs.com/vvplants/dogweed.html and another variety at http://wc.pima.edu/Bfiero/tucsonecology/plants/wflow_dyss.htm for Damianita ID see http://ag.arizona.edu/pima/gardening/aridplants/Chrysactinia_mexicana.html Both are hardy plants used frequently in Arizona landscapes. Damianita is from Mexico. Several varieties of Dyssodia are native to Arizona and it is a larval food plant for butterflies. Deb Sparrow MG Tempe AZ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Linda Drew" To: ; Sent: Tuesday, April 02, 2002 8:23 AM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Plant ID - Yellow Groundcover > > Sounds like damianita daisy (Chrysactinia mexicana). > Are the leaves needlelike? > > > > >From: "Greg Poole" > >Reply-To: "Greg Poole" > >To: "Mstr Gardner" > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plant ID - Yellow Groundcover > >Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 07:59:24 -0700 > > > >I need help IDing a low mounding ground cover. It is 8 to 10 inches high, > >2/3 ft wide. Profuse Yellow daisy type flowers cover the top with small > >green leaves 1/2 in long. It smell somewhat like santolina. It survived the > >winter with little flower production but stayed green. If any of you live > >near Sun City West, this plant is grown at the entrance of the Art Museam > >at Bell Rd and the Ave. of the Arts. I hope someone can provide the ID of > >this plant. > >Thanks > >Greg > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From bigfeet15@excite.com Wed Apr 3 00:26:46 2002 From: bigfeet15@excite.com (bigfeet15@excite.com) Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 17:26:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204030026.g330Qki03503@Ag.arizona.edu> i live in mesa.i have a queen palm that is 7 years old and 20 feet tall.the leaves are yellow and the new growth is deformed on the end and half the size.i used ironite,salt and ammonium sulfate no help.in the winter i water every other week for 5-6 hours which in the past has worked good.what can i do? thank you From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Apr 3 02:14:08 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 02:14:08 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palm Care Message-ID: Palms need special fertilizers that contain micronutients as well as Nitrogen-Phosphorus-Potassium. It will be labeled as palm fertilizer or something like "18-9-18 plus minors". Now is the time to fertilize, follow label directions. >http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf The above link will take you to the University of Arizona's publication on palm care. You will find information on various landscape palms, including Queen Palm. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: bigfeet15@excite.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 17:26:46 -0700 (MST) > >i live in mesa.i have a queen palm that is 7 years old and 20 feet tall.the >leaves are yellow and the new growth is deformed on the end and half the >size.i used ironite,salt and ammonium sulfate no help.in the winter i water >every other week for 5-6 hours which in the past has worked good.what can i >do? thank you > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Wed Apr 3 04:22:14 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 20:22:14 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question caliche In-Reply-To: <200204011539.g31Fddi16648@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20020403042214.87668.qmail@web14905.mail.yahoo.com> If you want to punch through caliche, you should use a strong acid. Try alkaliche. BE CAREFUL, it contains 20% sufuric acid. It will eat through rock. --- Pabaferd@Juno.com wrote: > A neighbor has suggested that we add "soil sulpher" > and water to help dig through the caliche layer. > Will this help? > > Thank you, > > Barbara Ferdinand > Pabaferd@Juno.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/ From amar@shrishakti.com Wed Apr 3 09:52:44 2002 From: amar@shrishakti.com (amar@shrishakti.com) Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 09:52:44 GMT Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: <20020403095244.9209.qmail@mail.emigratus.com> Dear Mr. Vijaya Sekhar, Hello and at the outset, I would like to introduce myself as Amar Seshu PASAPULA from Hyderabad and I was just browsing the net when I caught your surname and I thought I will just get in touch with you. I am also an Agri Grad from APAU with my masters in Management. Keep in touch, lets know more about each other as our surname is same and hence our roots should meet some where........... Regards, Amar. ************************* AMAR SESHU PASAPULA. 724 2133(R). 790 5050/5252/5353 (O). 98490 61052 (M). ************************* From landrews226738@comcast.net Wed Apr 3 13:49:03 2002 From: landrews226738@comcast.net (landrews226738@comcast.net) Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 06:49:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204031349.g33Dn3i22067@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a Kiefer pear tree that has been in my back yard for about a year. The strange thing is, the new leaves come out in a normal fashion. Then the edges turn black and they curl up and fall off. The tree is alive and seems to be in a normal plant cycle for spring. The ground is typically pathetic but usual for Tucson (brown, sandy, hard and nothing like the "gumbo" I'm used to from the Red River Valley area. But the rest of the yard is o.k. I water regularly and dug out a HUGE DEEP hole when I planted it. What the heck is it? Lauree Andrews Somebody who came from fertile farm land and is amazed that ANYTHING grows here! From gardenguru" Message-ID: <014f01c1db3e$755effe0$0b5594ce@ibm22761658747> Tomatoes do need to be fert regularly during their growing period. Bone meal does not provide all the nutrients your tomatoes need to bloom, set fruit and develop good foliage. Your water schdule sounds OK for plants in the ground. Any fert for tomatoes or veg will do. Basil does not do well in the shade, it need full AZ sun to thrive. Dig out the plants, place them in a container and move it to full sun or relocate them to a sunny spot in your garden. The county has good docs to help you w/ your tomatoes. they are avail for $1 from the address below. They are not yet avail online. Q295 Tomatoes MC22 Tomatoes in Desert Gardens Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Hope this helps GG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, April 01, 2002 10:24 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I planted 1gallon "Sweet 100" cherry tomatoes in early March. My garden is raised about a foot and is about 30'long by 3'wide. I added a bag of Kellogs mulch and turned the soil before planting. I put bone meal in the bottom of each hole and I water about 1 hour every 3 to 4 days. My plants look yellowish and shriveled. Am I watering too much? Do I need to fertilize? Also, the basil I planted at the shadier end of the garden looks poor. What do you think about that? Thanks for your help. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From gardenguru" Message-ID: <016101c1db3f$17004200$0b5594ce@ibm22761658747> Tomatoes need to be fert regularly during their growing period. It is important to provide all the nutrients your tomatoes need to bloom, set fruit and develop good foliage. Any fert for tomatoes or veg will do. Consistent watering is important for healthly tomatoes. The county has good docs to help you w/ your tomatoes. they are avail for $1 from the address below. They are not yet avail online. Q295 Tomatoes MC22 Tomatoes in Desert Gardens Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Hope this helps GG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, April 02, 2002 2:38 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > my tomatoes leaves are turning yellow at the bottom of the plant. I'm not over watering. > What will help? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From pgehlker@fastq.com Wed Apr 3 22:10:33 2002 From: pgehlker@fastq.com (pgehlker@fastq.com) Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 15:10:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204032210.g33MAXi26382@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a beautiful orchid that needs to be repotted. What soil medium should I use? I really do not know how to care for orchids and have simply been lucky with this one. Please advise. Thanks From mmb@storyteller.net Wed Apr 3 22:59:12 2002 From: mmb@storyteller.net (Michelle B) Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 15:59:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Summer sun-loving flowers Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020403154642.00b3c380@mail.storyteller.net> I'm putting in a new raised 14 ft by 2 ft planter at the back of my porch. It will have a 1 ft overhang. This planter will face southwest and full sun from mid-morning thru the rest of the day. So, I am looking for sun-worshipping flowers! I would love to hear folk's tried-and-true suggestions. Thanks! Michelle, in Avondale From labs5@cox.net Thu Apr 4 00:51:57 2002 From: labs5@cox.net (labs5@cox.net) Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 17:51:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204040051.g340pv914356@Ag.arizona.edu> I recently started a compost pile which seems to be doing pretty good. Good temperature, steam rising when I turn the pile. However, I just recently noticed a roach crawling out of it and I also seem to have a swarm of fruit flies that hang out over the bin. Which bugs are beneficial and which are considered pests, and what is the best way to get rid of the pests? - Thanks From b.roberts@direcway.com Thu Apr 4 05:48:33 2002 From: b.roberts@direcway.com (b.roberts@direcway.com) Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 22:48:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204040548.g345mX911103@Ag.arizona.edu> I would appreciate it if you could help me. I had a tangerine tree planted by a nursery approximately 1 1/2 years ago. Last year and this year the top of almost all branches die and turn black about 2 to 4 inches down from the tip. I asked questions and most people say I am watering to much. I started watering about every 15 days now and it started dieing about 2 weeks ago. Their is many tips of branches dead. I live in Sun Lakes, AZ 85248 Thank You, Barry W. Roberts From ldcolgan@earthlink.net Thu Apr 4 15:42:45 2002 From: ldcolgan@earthlink.net (ldcolgan@earthlink.net) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 08:42:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204041542.g34Fgj920666@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a north south facing home. My front yard has desert landscape. I have two semi cirle beds near the driveway that does not get a whole lot of sun. Can you recommend something that would do well in these spots? I currently have lantanas in these beds, but they don't seem to do real well. They are just there and look a little sad. I also have two other spots in the front that need some shade plants. I have put a few boxwood plants, but they are not doing so well either. Please recommend some shade toleratant plants for my front yard. Thank you From mmb@storyteller.net Thu Apr 4 16:58:31 2002 From: mmb@storyteller.net (Michelle B) Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 09:58:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Summer sun-loving flowers Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020404095549.00b2f5a0@mail.storyteller.net> Thanks for your response. Actually, at this point I have few requirements, the most important being sun-loving flowers. As the planter will border the lawn on one side and the porch on the other, the plants really shouldn't be wider than 4 ft max., preferably smaller. Will be no foot traffic thru the planter. Yes on pots. Fragrance, butterflies, hummers nice but not requirements. I am looking, quite honestly, for the "laundry list'," of flowers that do exceptionally well in the summer sun. I am researching all the plants I hear of that sound like they might work, so that the ones I finally choose will have similar watering, drainage and soil requirements. I do have several of Sunset's books, including Perennials, which I fly to whenever I catch another flower's name. I appreciate your help! Thank you. Michelle At 05:32 PM 4/3/02 -0700, you wrote: Are you looking for fragrance ? Height ? a stacked look, with smaller stuff in front ? Do you have any pet / kid traffic to worry about ? Is the back of the planter up against a wall, or does it " front " on the porch ? Do you want to attract any particular kinds of wildlife ? Hummingbirds ? Butterflies ? Do you want a continuous display of flowers, or just one big splash in spring ? There are lots of plants that will fit your requirements; your question is too open-ended. I'd use perennials / flowering shrubs at the back, then layer other stuff in front. It may be a few seasons before you get exactly what you want; be patient. This months " Sunset " magazine has a great section on perennials. Go to the nursery and ask them, look around and see what you like. Do a little more research then go for it. Are you going to put in drip irrigation on a timer, or will you always be there to water ? Can you integrate pots into the design ? A little more info, and I might be able to give you some useful solutions as opposed to a litany / laundry list of favorite plants. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michelle B" To: "Arid_Gardener" Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 2002 3:59 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Summer sun-loving flowers > I'm putting in a new raised 14 ft by 2 ft planter at the back of my porch. > It will have a 1 ft overhang. This planter will face southwest and full sun > from mid-morning thru the rest of the day. So, I am looking for > sun-worshipping flowers! I would love to hear folk's tried-and-true > suggestions. > > Thanks! > Michelle, in Avondale From old.bear.62@yahoo.com Thu Apr 4 18:01:18 2002 From: old.bear.62@yahoo.com (old.bear.62@yahoo.com) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 11:01:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204041801.g34I1I906798@Ag.arizona.edu> From old.bear.62@yahoo.com Thu Apr 4 18:04:07 2002 From: old.bear.62@yahoo.com (old.bear.62@yahoo.com) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 11:04:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204041804.g34I47907770@Ag.arizona.edu> I want to plant sod. Could you recommend a type that withstands heavy traffic. Also what soil amendments should I till into the soil before laying the sod down? Thank You. From gkparkin@srpnet.com Thu Apr 4 18:31:17 2002 From: gkparkin@srpnet.com (gkparkin@srpnet.com) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 11:31:17 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204041831.g34IVH916361@Ag.arizona.edu> My tomatoe plants are being eaten by a big green worm with a horn on its head. How do I get rid of them? From copper@bargainsail.com Thu Apr 4 19:14:12 2002 From: copper@bargainsail.com (Copper Bittner) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 12:14:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Summer sun-loving flowers In-Reply-To: <4.3.2.7.2.20020404095549.00b2f5a0@mail.storyteller.net> Message-ID: Hi Michelle, There is an on-line publication from the Maricopa County Extension on Flowers, requirements. It is available to download and print with no charge. Otherwise, the best source of information for these parts is the Extension. This publication, Flower Planting Guide for the Low Desert (1999), is also available at the Extension for $1.00 There are many gardening related publications available there. Copper Bittner Master Gardener Chandler, AZ Maricopa County -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Michelle B Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 9:59 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Cc: Mark Mittelstaedt Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Summer sun-loving flowers Thanks for your response. Actually, at this point I have few requirements, the most important being sun-loving flowers. As the planter will border the lawn on one side and the porch on the other, the plants really shouldn't be wider than 4 ft max., preferably smaller. Will be no foot traffic thru the planter. Yes on pots. Fragrance, butterflies, hummers nice but not requirements. I am looking, quite honestly, for the "laundry list'," of flowers that do exceptionally well in the summer sun. I am researching all the plants I hear of that sound like they might work, so that the ones I finally choose will have similar watering, drainage and soil requirements. I do have several of Sunset's books, including Perennials, which I fly to whenever I catch another flower's name. I appreciate your help! Thank you. Michelle At 05:32 PM 4/3/02 -0700, you wrote: Are you looking for fragrance ? Height ? a stacked look, with smaller stuff in front ? Do you have any pet / kid traffic to worry about ? Is the back of the planter up against a wall, or does it " front " on the porch ? Do you want to attract any particular kinds of wildlife ? Hummingbirds ? Butterflies ? Do you want a continuous display of flowers, or just one big splash in spring ? There are lots of plants that will fit your requirements; your question is too open-ended. I'd use perennials / flowering shrubs at the back, then layer other stuff in front. It may be a few seasons before you get exactly what you want; be patient. This months " Sunset " magazine has a great section on perennials. Go to the nursery and ask them, look around and see what you like. Do a little more research then go for it. Are you going to put in drip irrigation on a timer, or will you always be there to water ? Can you integrate pots into the design ? A little more info, and I might be able to give you some useful solutions as opposed to a litany / laundry list of favorite plants. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michelle B" To: "Arid_Gardener" Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 2002 3:59 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Summer sun-loving flowers > I'm putting in a new raised 14 ft by 2 ft planter at the back of my porch. > It will have a 1 ft overhang. This planter will face southwest and full sun > from mid-morning thru the rest of the day. So, I am looking for > sun-worshipping flowers! I would love to hear folk's tried-and-true > suggestions. > > Thanks! > Michelle, in Avondale _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Apr 4 20:40:32 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 13:40:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Asparagus References: Message-ID: <3CACBA3F.6B7253C2@qwest.net> We have a publication specifically addessing asparagus at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Vegetable There was also a good writeup about it in the Nov/Dec 1998 issue of the Horticultural Communicator http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/hortcom.htm which for some reason isn't listed there, so when you call extension to order the publication, ask if someone can copy pages 8 & 9 of this for you. Since you've planted one year old crowns, you have only one more year to wait for harvesting. Had you planted seed, you'd have a three year proposition on your hands. All spears that are not harvested become the ferny stalks you are seeing. The plant is producing and storing nutrients in the rhizome now, so let all the ferns appear. Gradually cover the crowns with soil to a depth of 4 to 6 inches. Ferns will go completely dormant in the fall, after which they should be removed. There's lots more cultural advice, as well as info on pests and harvesting in the two items I've noted above. Linda Guy, MG Jim Bayers wrote: > Hi All, > > Thanks for your help in the past. > > I put some asparagus crowns in. I've never grown it before. There's a > bunch of asparagus sprouts coming up forming ferns. > > Some crowns have sent up two or three stalks, others just one. Do I want > one stalk for each crown? > > They won't produce anything for a year right? > > Thanks, > > - Jim > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Apr 4 20:45:10 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 13:45:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Avocado References: <200203251830.g2PIUag17812@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3CACBB56.F27C51CB@qwest.net> In the low deserts of Phoenix, avocados are not likely to produce, although can become a nice plant with some care. We've had similar questions in the past, and you can search our archives for 'avocados' at http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/ Some previous answers are: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-May/004324.html http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2002-January/009965.html Good luck! Linda Guy, MG southerlandg@ci.merced.ca.us wrote: > I would like to know the best planting methods for alvocado trees. How far from fences,building sprinkler lines etc., should I plant them. What precautions should I take throughout the year to make sure damage does not occur. How long does it take to produce fruit? I currently have two in 5 gal. bought from nursery. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Apr 4 20:48:37 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 13:48:37 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning a neighbor's tree References: <200203271633.g2RGXqg09575@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3CACBC24.79DFC0DC@qwest.net> You could invite the neighbors to your house to read up on proper pruning techniques as described in our online Master Gardener Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ You will all see that the best cuts are done at the collar at the base of a branch, near but not flush with the trunk. Then together you can decide which are the best cuts to make to keep the tree from encroaching in your areas. Linda Guy, MG susan.e.wittrock@intel.com wrote: > I need to know the proper procedure to trim a neighbors tree branches that are encroaching into my RV gravel driveway. Can I trim the branches back myself, should I try to contact him about the issue. I would rather try to catch this now before the branches get very big and a trimming could throw off its balance or even damage it. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Apr 4 20:52:45 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 13:52:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapes References: <200203271649.g2RGnrg13409@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3CACBD1D.A6F0DD4C@qwest.net> Is this some sort of fertilizer? If so, it is not discussed in our Backyard Grapes Publication [MC 59]. You can order this at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Homeowners usually over rather than underfertilize, according to this pub. Fertilization frequency and amount is dependent on the age of the vines. Linda Guy, MG bteagle@worldnet.att.net wrote: > I wanr to know the correct timing for applying Gibberilic (spelling??) Acid to my grapes to increase their size. What size should the grapes be and how often to apply also the best method for application. > > I have thompson seedless, perlette and flame seedless grapes. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Apr 4 20:57:26 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 13:57:26 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tomato Hornworms References: <200204041831.g34IVH916361@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3CACBE36.7B3FFC4C@qwest.net> Because they are so easily found, the recommended management practice is to pick them off by hand. http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/insects/tomatohornworms.html Linda Guy, MG gkparkin@srpnet.com wrote: > My tomatoe plants are being eaten by a big green > worm with a horn on its head. How do I get rid of them? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From cynthiabrookeholy@hotmail.com Thu Apr 4 21:45:18 2002 From: cynthiabrookeholy@hotmail.com (cynthiabrookeholy@hotmail.com) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 14:45:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204042145.g34LjI920282@Ag.arizona.edu> I live in the south part of Chandler and am relatively new here (1&1/2 yrs). Am wondering when I should start my summer watering schedule? It seems to have gotten warm very quickly and I am afraid that my spring watering schedule may not be enough. We have desert landscape in our front yard and landscaping with Bermuda grass in the back. My spring watering is on an every 2 week cycle: Shrubs 1&1/2 hrs, trees 4hrs, & lawn 45 min. Summer watering: shrubs weekly for 1hr, trees every 2 weeks for 2hrs, & lawn every 3 days for 30min. Thank you for your help. From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu Apr 4 23:13:52 2002 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 16:13:52 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapes/Gibberellic Acid References: <200203271649.g2RGnrg13409@Ag.arizona.edu> <3CACBD1D.A6F0DD4C@qwest.net> Message-ID: <003501c1dc2e$72b119e0$4950530c@j0r9501> Gibberellic Acid is a plant growth regulator used by commercial grape growers to force grape production and to produce larger grapes. In my experience, grapes tend to be very small if one does not use it. GA has normally been available only in very large concentrated quantities but I have seen it recently in some garden centers in smaller, diluted quantities suitable for use by home gardeners. GA is applying by spraying the bunches in two applications (according to Pub. MC59) - the first application at the last blooming stage and the 2nd one week after. GA is also used to overcome seed dormancy, promote premature flowering, increase fruit set, as an aid in cross-pollination and a few other applications. It is also said to reduce seed content but I have not observed this. There has been some concern about bunch rot from use of GA. You might want to research this before using it ( search using keywords "Gibberellic acid" +grape). I haven't grown grapes for a few years but as I recall it was somewhat expensive. Olin Miller ----- Original Message ----- From: "Linda Guy" To: Cc: "Arid_gardener" Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 1:52 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapes > Is this some sort of fertilizer? If so, it is not discussed in our Backyard Grapes Publication [MC 59]. You can order this at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm > > Homeowners usually over rather than underfertilize, according to this pub. Fertilization frequency and amount is dependent on the age of the vines. > > Linda Guy, MG > > bteagle@worldnet.att.net wrote: > > > I wanr to know the correct timing for applying Gibberilic (spelling??) Acid to my grapes to increase their size. What size should the grapes be and how often to apply also the best method for application. > > > > I have thompson seedless, perlette and flame seedless grapes. > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From umiller@azdps.com Thu Apr 4 22:58:29 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 15:58:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tomato Hornworms In-Reply-To: <3CACBE36.7B3FFC4C@qwest.net> Message-ID: And then what do you do with them - after you pick them off? Shoot them? They are soooo big! You can also use Dipel Dust which is specifically made for hornworms and other critters of that ilk. Most nurseries carry it. Someone at this site gave me this advice last year when I found one in my yard. I immediately bought the dust and then the creature disappeared - never to be seen again. Never got to use the dust. I guess he was a loner. But I'm armed in case he brings his buddies with him next time. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Linda Guy Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 1:57 PM To: gkparkin@srpnet.com Cc: Arid_gardener Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tomato Hornworms Because they are so easily found, the recommended management practice is to pick them off by hand. http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/insects/tomatohornworms.html Linda Guy, MG gkparkin@srpnet.com wrote: > My tomatoe plants are being eaten by a big green > worm with a horn on its head. How do I get rid of them? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu Apr 4 23:28:27 2002 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 16:28:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tomato Hornworms References: Message-ID: <006901c1dc30$abe161a0$4950530c@j0r9501> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ursula Miller" > ... > And then what do you do with them - after you pick them off? Shoot them? > They are soooo big! > ... Set them in a tray on a bare spot of ground away from the tomato plants - the birds will find them. This works. Or put in a container too high for them to crawl out of. Maybe the Sphinx moths will get the message and lay their eggs elsewhere (this probably doesn't work but the worms will die). Olin From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Thu Apr 4 23:47:55 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 15:47:55 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question on orchids In-Reply-To: <200204032210.g33MAXi26382@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20020404234755.56013.qmail@web14903.mail.yahoo.com> there is a potting mix for orchids and books on care. Bothavailable at your garden center --- pgehlker@fastq.com wrote: > I have a beautiful orchid that needs to be repotted. > What soil medium should I use? I really do not know > how to care for orchids and have simply been lucky > with this one. Please advise. > > Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/ From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Apr 5 01:03:56 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 20:03:56 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Landscape Irrigation Message-ID: <124.e97392c.29de51fc@aol.com> --part1_124.e97392c.29de51fc_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Once you have determined the amount of water required to properly irrigate your trees and plants continue to apply that amount of water each time you water. In fall, winter, and spring just simplychange the interval between irrigations. For trees water should penetrate the soil to a three foot depth, shrubs to two foot depth and grass 8 to 10 inches deep. The interval should be different for trees , shrubs and for grass. The interval will be different for desert adapted trees and plants then for non native plants. Check out these sites for info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://www.ci.phoenix.az.us/WATER/lawnguid.html#LONG Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_124.e97392c.29de51fc_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Once you have determined the amount of water required to properly irrigate your trees and plants continue to apply that amount of water each time you water. In fall, winter, and spring just simplychange the interval between irrigations. For trees water should penetrate the soil to a three foot depth, shrubs to two foot depth and grass 8 to 10 inches deep. The interval should be different for trees , shrubs and for grass. The interval will be different for desert adapted trees and plants then for non native plants.
Check out these sites for info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://www.ci.phoenix.az.us/WATER/lawnguid.html#LONG

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_124.e97392c.29de51fc_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Apr 5 01:03:58 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 20:03:58 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sod selection Message-ID: <11f.e80f2a7.29de51fe@aol.com> --part1_11f.e80f2a7.29de51fe_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The sods available for heavy traffic are Easy Turf or Bobsod, Bobsod is probably the better choice for heavy traffic, it is ths sod used in Bankone Ballpark. Information on soil preparation is available at this site: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_11f.e80f2a7.29de51fe_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The sods available for heavy traffic are Easy Turf or Bobsod, Bobsod is probably the better choice for heavy traffic, it is ths sod used in Bankone Ballpark. Information on soil preparation is available at this site:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_11f.e80f2a7.29de51fe_boundary-- From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri Apr 5 05:02:01 2002 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 22:02:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Citrus Branch Tips Dying Message-ID: <005301c1dc60$d7424460$fc52530c@j0r9501> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0025_01C1DC24.59403CC0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable On Wed, 3 Apr 2002 22:48:33 -0700 (MST) Barry W. Roberts < = b.roberts@direcway.com b.roberts@direcway.com> wrote: > I would appreciate it if you could help me. > I had a tangerine tree planted by a nursery approximately=20 > 1 1/2 years ago. Last year and this year the top of almost=20 > all branches die and turn black about 2 to 4 inches down=20 > from the tip. I asked questions and most people say I am watering > to much. I started watering about every 15 days now and it=20 > started dieing about 2 weeks ago. Their is many tips of branches=20 > dead. > I live in Sun Lakes, AZ 85248 Don't know if this might be the problem but If you push the tree too = much in the Oct-Nov time frame by either fertilizing or over watering, = it will develop tender new growth which could be susceptible to = freezing. We had a few days in the NW valley where the temperature = dropped into the high 20s this past winter. -Olin ------=_NextPart_000_0025_01C1DC24.59403CC0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

On Wed, 3 Apr 2002 22:48:33 -0700 (MST) Barry W. = Roberts=20 < b.roberts@direcway.com b.roberts@direcway.com> = wrote:

> I would appreciate it if you could help me.
> I had a = tangerine=20 tree planted by a nursery approximately

> 1 1/2 years ago. Last year and this year the top of = almost=20

> all branches die and turn black about 2 to 4 inches down =

> from the tip. I asked questions and most people say I am = watering

> to much. I started watering about every 15 days now and = it=20

> started dieing about 2 weeks ago. Their is many tips of = branches=20

> dead.
> I live in Sun Lakes, AZ 85248

Don't know if this might be the problem but If you push the tree = too much=20 in the Oct-Nov time frame by either fertilizing or over watering, it = will=20 develop tender new growth which could be susceptible to freezing. = We had a=20 few days in the NW valley where the temperature dropped into the high = 20s this=20 past winter. -Olin

------=_NextPart_000_0025_01C1DC24.59403CC0-- From Consultants@cgt-consult.com Fri Apr 5 03:05:07 2002 From: Consultants@cgt-consult.com (Consultants) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 19:05:07 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] IT Consultants Message-ID: <5BF0CCEFD5ABD41197E5004854851A0803138279@CGTSRVR> This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C1DC4E.B3767CF2 Content-Type: text/plain Hi N, CGT Consulting is one of the leading Computer Consulting Companies. We have been in the IT consulting arena for over 5 Years, providing Contract, Contract-to-Hire and permanent IT candidates. We also take on projects, which can be developed on-site, offsite or offshore. Our Consultants have experience / skills in (just a partial list): E-Commerce/WEB/JAVA/CGI/HTML, ERP's, CRM's, Oracle, Sybase, Microsoft SQL Server, Informix, Visual Basic, C++, VC++, SAP, PeopleSoft, Siebel, Tibco, Clarify, DBA's (Oracle, Sybase, Informix, ... etc), System Administrators (HP-UX, Sun Solaris, AIX, Linux, ... etc), AS-400, HP3000, Cobol, Delphi, Foxpro, Progress, Lotus Notes administration and development, Embedded Software, ASIC Engineers, Device Drivers, ASIC, Telecom engineers, ... etc. We only submit pre-screened and only the VERY Qualified candidates, based on your requirements, to you; thus saving you valuable time! All the candidates are submitted to you, at very competitive rates. We work with Clients across the country and are currently providing them with IT Resources, on a Contract, Contract-to-hire or Permanent basis. Can I help you with any of your current IT openings, (Contract or permanent)? If so, please contact me either via email or phone at 714-572-1055. Try us once, with the 2 weeks guarantee, at no cost to you, and see what we can do for you! On most consulting assignments, we are also able to offer either a 1 or 2 week trial, at no cost to you. Thank you. Naren Mistry Manager - Tel: 714-572-1055 consultants@cgt-consult.com www.cgt-consult.com Anti-SPAM Policy Disclaimer: mailto:consultants@cgt-consult.com?subject=REMOVE-IT-CONSULTANTS Under Bill s.1618 Title III passed by the 105th U. S. Congress, mail cannot be considered spam as long as we include contact information and a remove link for removal from our mailing list. If this e-mail is unsolicited, please accept our apologies and click on the following removal link: mailto:Consultants@cgt-consult.com?subject=REMOVE-IT-CONSULTANTS or reply back with REMOVE in the SUBJECT with this email address: Arid_Gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu ------_=_NextPart_001_01C1DC4E.B3767CF2 Content-Type: text/html Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable IT Consultants

Hi N,

CGT Consulting is one of the leading Computer = Consulting Companies. We have been in the IT consulting arena for over = 5 Years, providing Contract, Contract-to-Hire and permanent IT = candidates. We also take on projects, which can be developed on-site, = offsite or offshore.

Our Consultants have experience / skills in (just a = partial list):
E-Commerce/WEB/JAVA/CGI/HTML, ERP's, CRM's, Oracle, = Sybase, Microsoft SQL Server, Informix, Visual Basic, C++, VC++, SAP, = PeopleSoft, Siebel, Tibco, Clarify, DBA's (Oracle, Sybase, Informix, = ... etc), System Administrators (HP-UX, Sun Solaris, AIX, Linux, ... = etc), AS-400, HP3000, Cobol, Delphi, Foxpro, Progress, Lotus Notes = administration and development, Embedded Software, ASIC Engineers, = Device Drivers, ASIC, Telecom engineers, ... etc.

We only submit pre-screened and only the VERY = Qualified candidates, based on your requirements, to you; thus saving = you valuable time! All the candidates are submitted to you, at very = competitive rates.

We work with Clients across the country and are = currently providing them with IT Resources, on a Contract, = Contract-to-hire or Permanent basis.

Can I help you with any of your current IT openings, = (Contract or permanent)? If so, please contact me either via email or = phone at 714-572-1055.

Try us once, with the 2 weeks guarantee, at no cost = to you, and see what we can do for you! On most consulting assignments, = we are also able to offer either a 1 or 2 week trial, at no cost to = you.

Thank you.

Naren Mistry
Manager - Tel: 714-572-1055
consultants@cgt-consult.com
www.cgt-consult.com

Anti-SPAM Policy Disclaimer:
mailto:consultants@cgt-consult.com?subject=3DREMOVE-IT-CONSULTANTS
Under Bill s.1618 Title III passed by the 105th U. = S. Congress, mail cannot be considered spam as long as we include = contact information and a remove link for removal from our mailing = list. If this e-mail is unsolicited, please accept our apologies and = click on the following removal link: mailto:Consultants@cgt-consult.com?subject=3DREMOVE-IT-CONSULTANTS or reply back with REMOVE in the SUBJECT with this email address: = Arid_Gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu

------_=_NextPart_001_01C1DC4E.B3767CF2-- From melweisberg@yahoo.com Fri Apr 5 14:45:21 2002 From: melweisberg@yahoo.com (melweisberg@yahoo.com) Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 07:45:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204051445.g35EjL900353@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a sweet acacia that was recently diagnosed with black slime. I was told this was fatal and the tree needs to be removed. Is this true? How long can a tree last with this type of infection? From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Apr 5 15:37:59 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2002 08:37:59 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bermuda Removal References: <200203251656.g2PGu6g25525@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3CADC4D7.ED58E672@qwest.net> Most would suggest using a systemic [kills the plant by moving into its 'system' but remains inert in the soil] such as Roundup or Finale. Multiple applications are usually required, with normal lawn care [read: irrigation] in between applications. A vigorously growing lawn will 'ingest' the systemic better and require fewer applications. Watering will also show you where there is still life left in the turf. The queen palms should be protected from any spray. Continue to give them good care while you are addressing the turf removal. If in doubt, review our publication on palm trees at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Ornamentals Linda Guy, MG Linda Guy, MG linda.l.van@boeing.com wrote: > How do I permantely remove Bermuda Grass from around Queen Ann Palms without harming the Palms? There is approximately 200 square feet of grass. In the center of that area is another area with the Quesn Ann Palms. The grass is about 2 feet away from the base of the Palms. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Apr 5 15:42:28 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2002 08:42:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rabbit Management References: <200203291845.g2TIjdg17176@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3CADC5E3.74F8B73D@qwest.net> The 'formula' is a barrier of some kind. Management techniques are discussed at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/animals/rabbit.htm Use the searach function to see the discussions about rabbits that have taken place in the past in this forum. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/question.htm We are having very dry times and rabbits will basically eat anything. You'll notice tha cages around many plants, even at the Desert Botanical Gardens. fhersh@iopener.net wrote: > A formula in order to deter rabbits from nibbling on our roses and other plants? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Apr 5 15:44:35 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2002 08:44:35 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [Insects Eating Mexican Evening Primrose] References: <20020330160602.15826.qmail@uwdvg001.cms.usa.net> Message-ID: <3CADC663.91F3DFF2@qwest.net> Unfortunately, entomology is not my specialty. I have two other suggestions. One is to peruse the entomology section of the MG Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ The second is to call, or even visit [critter in tow] the nearest Cooperative Extension Office or Satellite, which are listed on the same page where you placed your question originally. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/question.htm Good luck to you! Linda Guy, MG Stan Eissinger wrote: > The insects are about 3/16 inch long. They are black with an indistinct head > and a pointed posterior. They look like small worms to the naked eye. They > crawl onto the plant and eat the leaves and stems. I have tried liquid soap, > garlic and peppers, and rubbing alcohol. They are still at it. Any help you > can give would be appreciated. Thank You. > > wrote: > Flea beetles, which are several colors, are known to love Mexican evening > primrose, but their larva are whitish, according to the summary below. > http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/flea-btl.htm > Does this describe your problem, and if not, can you give us more info to > help > identify the pest. > > Linda Guy, MG > > Stan Eissinger wrote: > > > Small black, larva-like insects are rapidly eating my Mexican Evening > > Primrose. Does anyone know or an organic method of getting rid of them. > > Thanks > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From melweisberg@yahoo.com Fri Apr 5 18:37:59 2002 From: melweisberg@yahoo.com (melweisberg@yahoo.com) Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 11:37:59 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204051837.g35Ibx909833@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a sweet acacia that was recently diagnosed with black slime. I was told this was fatal and the tree needs to be removed. Is this true? How long can a tree last with this type of infection? From Beverlyfz@aol.com Fri Apr 5 19:16:31 2002 From: Beverlyfz@aol.com (Beverlyfz@aol.com) Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 14:16:31 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mold on Cukes Message-ID: <16e.b94d4bf.29df520f@aol.com> I often have trouble with mold on stuff in my greenhouse. I avoid wetting the leaves, but my cucumbers got wet. Last week I sprayed a recommended mixture of water with baking soda and blue dish soap on my cucumbers to try to get rid of mold that suddenly appeared the day before. They were neat compact plants a few weeks old about the size of a baseball. The next morning they were dead. Why do you suppose it killed them, or was it the mold that did them in? What should I try next time? Thx, Beverly From fgp2alp@aol.com Fri Apr 5 19:27:41 2002 From: fgp2alp@aol.com (fgp2alp@aol.com) Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 12:27:41 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204051927.g35JRf924513@Ag.arizona.edu> My Chilean mesquite has curled new growth but the new growth then dies up and falls off. My question is: How often and how long should we be watering it. It is on a drip system which has 4 drippers per the tree. Should we feed it? The tree is 3 yrs old. Plus should it be trimmed and when is a good time to prune or trim . Thankyou for any tips you could provide us. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Apr 5 21:24:39 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 16:24:39 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Watering Mesquite Message-ID: <9a.2379c7ea.29df7017@aol.com> --part1_9a.2379c7ea.29df7017_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit With the warmer than normal weather and no rainfall for several months your Mesquite tree probably needs water. Deep watering every two to three weeks will be adequate for your mesquite this time of year. By deep watering we mean applying enough water to penetrate 3 feet deep. The best time to prune desert adapted trees is during warm weather, remove dead , damaged and crossing branches. Usually removing the crossing branches will be enough to cut down on the sail effect of the usually thick crown on a mesquite and prevent the wind from blowing the tree over. The following sites will provide lots of info on watering and pruning: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/pruning.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_9a.2379c7ea.29df7017_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit With the warmer than normal weather and no rainfall for several months your Mesquite tree probably needs water. Deep watering every two to three weeks will be adequate for your mesquite this time of year. By deep watering we mean applying enough water to penetrate 3 feet deep.
The best time to prune desert adapted trees is during warm weather, remove dead , damaged and crossing branches. Usually removing the crossing branches will be enough to cut down on the sail effect of the usually thick crown on a mesquite and prevent the wind from blowing the tree over.
The following sites will provide lots of info on watering and pruning: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/pruning.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_9a.2379c7ea.29df7017_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Apr 5 21:34:02 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 16:34:02 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Acacia tree with black slime Message-ID: <83.18f1cf1c.29df724a@aol.com> --part1_83.18f1cf1c.29df724a_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I would suggest that you have a Certified Arborist examine your tree to confirm the diagnosis and advise as to whether the tree needs to be removed and the cost as well as the life expectancy of the tree. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_83.18f1cf1c.29df724a_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I would suggest that you have a Certified Arborist examine your tree to confirm the diagnosis and advise as to whether the tree needs to be removed and the cost as well as the life expectancy of the tree.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_83.18f1cf1c.29df724a_boundary-- From rmford1@mindspring.com Fri Apr 5 22:47:35 2002 From: rmford1@mindspring.com (Renea Ford) Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 15:47:35 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ferocactus cylindraceus discoloration Message-ID: <001301c1dcf3$e28f72a0$942eb83f@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01C1DCB9.34D02040 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Two Compass Barrel Cacti (Ferocactus cylindraceus), one grown on the = east side of a home and only watered via rain, and the other on the = south side of a home and supplemental water given occasionally, have = developed a discoloration (purplish-black) from the ground up (one-- 2 = inches up, the other 8 inches up, but entirely different ages). Needles = are still on these areas but have changed to grayish/black from the = typical yellow as well, the tissue seems hard, but so did my saguaro = that had rot. The older cactus (with no supplemental water) keeps on = blooming annually, even though the discoloration is half way up the = cactus. Are they rotting? Should I remove them because they will never = recover and will most likely continue to decay? Is this common for this = type of cactus -- I've not seen it on any other. My rotted saguaro = looked purplish/black in areas, but also more mottled with yellow/orange = discoloration. Any ideas? Renea ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01C1DCB9.34D02040 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Two Compass Barrel Cacti (Ferocactus = cylindraceus), one=20 grown on the east side of a home and only watered via rain, and the = other on the=20 south side of a home and supplemental water given occasionally, have = developed a=20 discoloration (purplish-black) from the ground up (one-- 2 inches up, = the other=20 8 inches up, but entirely different ages). Needles are still = on these=20 areas but have changed to grayish/black from the typical yellow as well, = the=20 tissue seems hard, but so did my saguaro that had rot. The older = cactus=20 (with no supplemental water) keeps on blooming annually, even = though the=20 discoloration is half way up the cactus. Are they rotting? = Should I=20 remove them because they will never recover and will most likely = continue to=20 decay? Is this common for this type of cactus -- I've not = seen it=20 on any other. My rotted saguaro looked purplish/black in areas, = but also=20 more mottled with yellow/orange discoloration. Any = ideas?

Renea

------=_NextPart_000_0010_01C1DCB9.34D02040-- From azdeetom@aol.com Sat Apr 6 16:32:25 2002 From: azdeetom@aol.com (azdeetom@aol.com) Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 09:32:25 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204061632.g36GWP911112@Ag.arizona.edu> We live in SCW.Az. We have over 15 trees in our backyard and it's very enjoyable plus shades the sun. The problem is the birds. I know they were here first but the smell of the droppings is awful. Is there something I can throw under the trees to disapate the smell. I have landscapers come every three months to blow out the yard but "that" does not get picked up...just spread around. Thank you. 4/6/02 From BethWertz@msn.com Sat Apr 6 16:59:11 2002 From: BethWertz@msn.com (BethWertz@msn.com) Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 09:59:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204061659.g36GxB914712@Ag.arizona.edu> If flowers wilt quickly and then die in my flower bed (especialy pansies and violas) is this called Texas root rot, and can I get the fungus out of the soil for next year's plantings? I don't want everything dying next year in my beds. Thanks Beth From pfrahm1819@cs.com Sat Apr 6 23:41:05 2002 From: pfrahm1819@cs.com (pfrahm1819@cs.com) Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 16:41:05 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204062341.g36Nf5914932@Ag.arizona.edu> What can I do to control or eliminate cutter bees? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Apr 7 03:05:02 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2002 03:05:02 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] cutter bees Message-ID: Here is some information from the archives: Leaf Cutter Bees make those half moon cuts in tender leaves. They are harmless and the bees are good pollinators. You can see them on tender new leaves on roses and other plants. Since they do not eat the leaves, but just use them to construct the nursery for their young, pesticides don't really do much good. Nobody I know is currently trying to control them due to the drastic reductions in the honeybee populations. The extension office and others, usually recommend just leaving them alone as their services are needed and realistically the amount of leaves they damage are minimal. re: roses Pesticides have never been shown to be effective against leaf cutter bees. We recommend floating row covers for prize plants (those to be shown in shows). And experienced rosarians know how to trim the leaves to a nice shape (there are special scissors for this). In fact I think most shows are relaxing their standards when it comes to leaves with leafcutter bee holes, at least that's what an experienced judge told me. Finally, plants can withstand a great deal of defoliation without harm. Just think how severely you prune those roses, the small amount of leaf a bee takes is much less in comparison. (I know my husband is much more dangerous with a pair of pruning shears than 100 leaf cutter bees :-)) Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: pfrahm1819@cs.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 16:41:05 -0700 (MST) > >What can I do to control or eliminate cutter bees? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From RichardSLevine@hotmail.com Sun Apr 7 03:18:28 2002 From: RichardSLevine@hotmail.com (RichardSLevine@hotmail.com) Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 20:18:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204070318.g373IR918291@Ag.arizona.edu> What is the recommended solution for removal of a "pack rat" from a pool heater equipment area? It pulls off cactus spines from the cholla just behind our back fence, leave spines on the walkway near the pool equipment, and has created a nest under the pool heater. Should I try a live trap? If so, where can I release him? From chuckm132@cox.net Sun Apr 7 06:52:21 2002 From: chuckm132@cox.net (chuckm132@cox.net) Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 23:52:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204070652.g376qL917508@Ag.arizona.edu> about four months ago we purchased a home and had grass laid down. The lawn has done very well this winter. I am concerned about the steps that I need to take to prepare my lawn for summer. If you could provide me with information on what I will need to do. thx. From Jonathan Kandell" Message-ID: <004101c1de09$57a3a960$6f39bbd0@oemcomputer> ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, April 06, 2002 8:18 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > What is the recommended solution for removal of a "pack rat" from a pool heater equipment area? It pulls off cactus spines from the cholla just behind our back fence, leave spines on the walkway near the pool equipment, and has created a nest under the pool heater. Should I try a live trap? If so, where can I release him? if you want to catch a rat you don't need a fancy cat if you want to learn the Principles don't study fine bound books the True Pearl's in a hemp sack the Buddha nature rests in huts many grasp the sack but few open it. Shih Te (Lengendary, c. 730) From Greg Poole" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_031D_01C1DE02.4A927E60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable To Cactus Jack, et al. What are the white spots on Prickly Pear - bugs = or fungus and how to treat them ?=20 Thanks Greg ------=_NextPart_000_031D_01C1DE02.4A927E60 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

To Cactus Jack, et al. What are the = white spots on=20 Prickly Pear - bugs or fungus and how to treat them ?

Thanks

Greg

------=_NextPart_000_031D_01C1DE02.4A927E60-- From Greg Poole" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_032F_01C1DE02.7FE80EE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable To all the horse folks out there. What is the best grass, grains to grow = if starting a new horse pasture.=20 thanks ------=_NextPart_000_032F_01C1DE02.7FE80EE0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

To all the horse folks out there. What = is the best=20 grass, grains to grow if starting a new horse pasture.

thanks

------=_NextPart_000_032F_01C1DE02.7FE80EE0-- From umiller@azdps.com Sun Apr 7 14:18:50 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 07:18:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Prickly Pear - White Spots In-Reply-To: <032201c1de3c$f84a2fa0$0b5594ce@ibm22761658747> Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C1DE04.77956740 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit You may have cochineal scale. Here�s a response to this question from someone in the past. I just hose mine off periodically with a strong jet of water. What you have is cochineal scale. If left untreated the cochineal multiplies and covers the plant. This is not only an eyesore; it can weaken and kill the host plant as the insect is sucking the plant juices. Here is a link that discusses the different methods of dealing with this pest. http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening/news/azdailystar/fuzz_prickly_pear.html An interesting aside is that after Cortez invaded the new world, he found the Aztecs using cochineal scale as a dye for their fabrics. The red color was not marched by anything in the old world. It soon became Spain's third most valuable export. It is still used as a coloring agent in some cosmetics and beverages. Scott Rogers MG Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Greg Poole Sent: Sunday, April 07, 2002 7:03 AM To: Master Gardener Subject: [Arid_gardener] Prickly Pear - White Spots To Cactus Jack, et al. What are the white spots on Prickly Pear - bugs or fungus and how to treat them ? Thanks Greg ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C1DE04.77956740 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Yo= u may have cochineal scale.

He= re’s a response to this question from someone in the past. I just hose mine off periodically with a strong jet = of water.

What you have is cochineal scale. If left untreated the =
cochineal multipliesand covers the plant. This is not =
only an eyesore; it can weaken and killthe host plant as the insect is =
sucking the plant juices. Here is a linkthat discusses the different =
methods of dealing with this pest.http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening/news/azdailystar/fuzz_prickly_pea=
r.html An interesting aside is that after =
Cortez invaded the new world, he foundthe Aztecs using cochineal scale =
as a dye for their fabrics. The red colorwas not marched by anything in the =
old world. It soon became Spain's thirdmost valuable export. It is still =
used as a coloring agent in some cosmeticsand beverages. Scott RogersMG

 

 

Ursula Miller

Not =
a Master
Gardener

<=
span
class=3DEmailStyle15> 

-----Original
Message-----

From:
arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu =
[mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Greg Poole

Sent: Sunday, April 07, =
2002 7:03
AM

To: Master Gardener

Subject: [Arid_gardener] =
Prickly
Pear - White Spots

 

To
Cactus Jack, et al. What are the white spots on Prickly Pear - bugs or =
fungus
and how to treat them ? 

Thanks<=
/p>

Greg<=
/p>

------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C1DE04.77956740-- From wuncent@localnet.com Sun Apr 7 14:53:00 2002 From: wuncent@localnet.com (wuncent@localnet.com) Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 07:53:00 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204071453.g37Eqx923975@Ag.arizona.edu> I have bermuda grass. A few years ago, instead of dethatching, it was mowed real low to get rid of old grass. After that, the yard never has looked as good as it did before. This year, we rented a machine to dethatch. What can I do now to get the grass to come back lush and green as it once was? The only thing I've used in the past is ammonia sulfate. Other fertilizers seemed to cause brown spots. Thank you, Linda From s2@arcworldwide.com Sun Apr 7 21:47:41 2002 From: s2@arcworldwide.com (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2002 14:47:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] New spring "adoptees" References: Message-ID: <3CB0BE7D.5B4EF118@arcworldwide.com> Hi all, We just had a fun-filled weekend stocking up on new yard "adoptees" and I have a couple questions: I managed to find 3 absolutely huge, beautiful, supple green bare-root ocotillos so I grabbed 'em. It may be a week before I can get them in the ground, so right now they are just laying on their side until we can plant them. Any care to give them/roots until we have time to dig a few holes? Also, one of the 'new discoveries' I picked up is an Emu Bush (eremophila), rainbow variety: one shrub, yellow, orange, red, lavender and pink flowers (way too pretty!). A Tucson-ite at the local plant sale said she had planted one a couple years that has thrived, but when I got home and looked it up it's listed as zones 8,9 and 14-24 in the WGB, omitting our desert zones. Says it thrives in heat though, so I'm assuming it will be ok? Anyone here with any experience with this. Also, I know its posted a zillion times a month (!), but we also brought home several new trees: mesquite, palo verde and acacia smallii for the front, arizona ash and eucalyptus for the back (which will get more water) and I want to take the best care that they establish good, deep root systems and still get enough water to grow as fast as possible (just 15 gal. size going in)... so the link to tree irrigation (that I never bookmarked cuz I never needed it!) would be swell :-). Also, since these trees are young and skinny, I was told they'll only need to be staked for about 6 months? Any support/other opinions? -- Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. Vice President, Communications & Technology ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org ===================================================== "I became convinced we are here for each other." -- R. Buckminster Fuller From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Apr 7 22:06:44 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 18:06:44 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rye Grass to Bermuda Transition Message-ID: <5f.2565b571.29e21cf4@aol.com> --part1_5f.2565b571.29e21cf4_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit We are approaching the time of year when steps need to be taken to help kill the overseeded rye grass and help the bermuda get a start, ( when the night time temperatures are consistantly over 60 degrees ).Those steps are lowering the cutting height of the rye and fertilizing with a fertilizer that contains nitrogen as well as phosphorus. The Master Gardener Manual chapter on Turf has a section on Spring Transition to Bermuda available at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_5f.2565b571.29e21cf4_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit We are approaching the time of year when steps need to be taken to help kill the overseeded rye grass and help the bermuda get a start, ( when the night time temperatures are consistantly over 60 degrees ).Those steps are lowering the cutting height of the rye and fertilizing with a fertilizer that contains nitrogen as well as phosphorus.
The Master Gardener Manual chapter on Turf has a section on Spring Transition to Bermuda available at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_5f.2565b571.29e21cf4_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Apr 7 22:06:45 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 18:06:45 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf problems Message-ID: --part1_fe.165d3217.29e21cf5_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Linda, The recommended time to dethatch or to cut as low as possible is summer when the bermuda is actively growing. The very low cut or dethatching done early in the spring causes the grass to become stressed which means that it will be slow to recover. A fertilizer containing phosphorus such as amoniun phosphate will help the roots become stronger. Amonium sulfate works well for most of the year, the exception would be the first ferilization in the spring and the last one in the fall when when a complete fertilizer should be used to encourage root growth. I don't have an explanation as to why a complete fertilizer caused brown spots in your grass unless it wasn't watered in adequately or you applied too much. It is the nitrogen in the fertilizer that can cause the grass to burn. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_fe.165d3217.29e21cf5_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Linda,

The recommended time to dethatch or to cut as low as possible is summer when the bermuda is actively growing. The very low cut or dethatching done early in the spring causes the grass to become stressed which means that it will be slow to recover. A fertilizer containing phosphorus such as amoniun phosphate will help the roots become stronger.
Amonium sulfate works well for most of the year, the exception would be the first ferilization in the spring and the last one in the fall when when a complete fertilizer should be used to encourage root growth.
I don't have an explanation as to why a complete fertilizer caused brown spots in your grass unless it wasn't watered in adequately or you applied too much. It is the nitrogen in the fertilizer that can cause the grass to burn.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_fe.165d3217.29e21cf5_boundary-- From sjbass@qwest.net Sun Apr 7 22:15:46 2002 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2002 15:15:46 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rodent control References: <200204070318.g373IR918291@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3CB0C512.E4C76D4B@qwest.net> Richard: The following link will take you to a page in our on-line Master Gardener manual concerning vertebrate pests and their control. http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/pests/intro.html Sue Bass Master Gardener RichardSLevine@hotmail.com wrote: > What is the recommended solution for removal of a "pack rat" from a pool heater equipment area? It pulls off cactus spines from the cholla just behind our back fence, leave spines on the walkway near the pool equipment, and has created a nest under the pool heater. Should I try a live trap? If so, where can I release him? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Apr 7 22:45:41 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 18:45:41 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Planting and Staking Trees Message-ID: --part1_c8.24f43bf1.29e22615_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Sherryl, Sounds like you have your work cut out to plant all those trees and shrubs next week. Besure to allow plenty of room for the ash and the eucalyptus, the ash can grow to 30 to 50 feet tall. I would suggest that you dig the tree holes the day before you plant and fill the holes with water, if the holes do not contain water the next day your drainage is ok. Dig the holes the depth of the root ball and 3x wide. Be sure the root ball is watered adequately after planting, allow the hose to run until the hole will not take any more water. If the trees will not stand up by themselves they will require double staking, remove the stake that came from the nursery. It usually will be a year before you can remove the double stakes. The link for irrigation is: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html In that same chapter of the Master Gardener Manual is lots of info on planting and tree care. Since I don't have any experience with planting ocotillos and Emu Bush I'll leave those for others to answer. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_c8.24f43bf1.29e22615_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Sherryl,

Sounds like you have your work cut out to plant all those trees and shrubs next week. Besure to allow plenty of room for the ash and the eucalyptus, the ash can grow to 30 to 50 feet tall. I would suggest that you dig the tree holes the day before you plant and fill the holes with water, if the holes do not contain water the next day your drainage is ok.
Dig the holes the depth of the root ball and 3x wide. Be sure the root ball is watered adequately after planting, allow the hose to run until the hole will not take any more water.
If the trees will not stand up by themselves they will require double staking, remove the stake that came from the nursery. It usually will be a year before you can remove the double stakes.
The link for irrigation is: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html
In that same chapter of the Master Gardener Manual is lots of info on planting and tree care.
Since I don't have any experience with planting ocotillos and Emu Bush I'll leave those for others to answer.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_c8.24f43bf1.29e22615_boundary-- From bluesjam@hotmail.com Sun Apr 7 23:48:11 2002 From: bluesjam@hotmail.com (bluesjam@hotmail.com) Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 16:48:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204072348.g37NmB912055@Ag.arizona.edu> I want to raise the grade on my property,and my only concern is a large mature black walnut tree that sits on the edge of my lot in a lower elevation.Will it kill the tree if the soil is raised about two feet up the trunk? Thank you for your time JIM From marriportia@yahoo.com Mon Apr 8 01:52:06 2002 From: marriportia@yahoo.com (marriportia@yahoo.com) Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 18:52:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204080152.g381q6902108@Ag.arizona.edu> 1. I recently planted some bare root almond trees. They dont appear to be doing so well. I have been deep watering every other day, fertilized 2x, 10 days apart. And treated w/B12 at time of planting. Any other suggestions aside from just being patient!? 2. I have tons of mexican fan palms sprouting up in my yard. I would like to share them w/friend but have never been successful w/transplanting. Suggestions? Thank you Marri From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Mon Apr 8 03:09:22 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 20:09:22 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200204080152.g381q6902108@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20020408030922.93742.qmail@web14905.mail.yahoo.com> YES,stop being a mother to them. If in fact you are watering deep(about 2-3 feet deep), you are drowning them. They should be watered 2-3 feet deep every 7-14 days for about the first 3-5 months then every 10-20 days.Don't fertilize them this year --- marriportia@yahoo.com wrote: > 1. I recently planted some bare root almond trees. > They dont appear to be doing so well. I have been > deep watering every other day, fertilized 2x, 10 > days apart. And treated w/B12 at time of planting. > Any other suggestions aside from just being > patient!? > 2. I have tons of mexican fan palms sprouting up in > my yard. I would like to share them w/friend but > have never been successful w/transplanting. > Suggestions? > > Thank you Marri > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/ From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Mon Apr 8 03:12:54 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 20:12:54 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200204072348.g37NmB912055@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20020408031254.99094.qmail@web14910.mail.yahoo.com> In a word, Yes , it will kill the tree by rotting the trunk. Try to design your lanscape as to leave the tree where its at or remove it and replant it after you change the grade. --- bluesjam@hotmail.com wrote: > I want to raise the grade on my property,and my only > concern is a large mature black > walnut tree that sits on the edge of my lot in a > lower elevation.Will it kill the tree if the soil is > raised about two feet up the trunk? > Thank you for your time > JIM > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/ From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Apr 8 03:17:24 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2002 20:17:24 -0700 Subject: [Fwd: [Arid_gardener] Rabbit Management] Message-ID: <3CB10BC4.7EDAFB32@qwest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------9AF1360A27C12BB9D56553EA Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Scott raises a valid strategy which I have previously discussed with folks out Fountain Hills and Wickenburg way. One fellow put water beyond view of his home to keep critters happy and out of his immediate yard. I think his particular concern was javelina, but I don't know why this isn't worth trying for other troublesome vertebrates. Thanks for the refresher Scott. Linda Guy, MG --------------9AF1360A27C12BB9D56553EA Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 12695 invoked by uid 0); 7 Apr 2002 11:24:58 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO mail3.uswest.net) (63.226.138.3) by mpls-mailin-03.inet.qwest.net with SMTP; 7 Apr 2002 11:24:58 -0000 Received: (qmail 30702 invoked by uid 0); 7 Apr 2002 11:24:58 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO harrier.prod.itd.earthlink.net) (207.217.120.12) by mail3.uswest.net with SMTP; 7 Apr 2002 11:24:58 -0000 Received: from cpe-66-1-197-220.az.sprintbbd.net ([66.1.197.220] helo=4gkyk01) by harrier.prod.itd.earthlink.net with smtp (Exim 3.33 #1) id 16uAn3-0001Qw-00 for lindaguy@qwest.net; Sun, 07 Apr 2002 04:24:58 -0700 Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 04:24:46 -0700 Message-ID: <011a01c1de26$d34013c0$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> From: "Scott Rogers" To: "Linda Guy" References: <200203291845.g2TIjdg17176@Ag.arizona.edu> <3CADC5E3.74F8B73D@qwest.net> Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Rabbit Management MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.50.4807.1700 X-MIMEOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.50.4807.1700 X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 When I took the MG program, Terry Mikal said that the rabbits were basically after moisture and that if we had a pan of water for them, it would significantly reduce the amount of damage they did to plants. Have you had any experience doing this? Scott Rogers ----- Original Message ----- From: "Linda Guy" To: Cc: "Arid_gardener" Sent: Friday, April 05, 2002 8:42 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rabbit Management > The 'formula' is a barrier of some kind. Management techniques are discussed at > http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/animals/rabbit.htm > > Use the searach function to see the discussions about rabbits that have taken place > in the past in this forum. > http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/question.htm > > We are having very dry times and rabbits will basically eat anything. You'll notice > tha cages around many plants, even at the Desert Botanical Gardens. > > fhersh@iopener.net wrote: > > > A formula in order to deter rabbits from nibbling on our roses and other plants? > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > --------------9AF1360A27C12BB9D56553EA-- From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Mon Apr 8 03:18:07 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 20:18:07 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] New spring "adoptees" In-Reply-To: <3CB0BE7D.5B4EF118@arcworldwide.com> Message-ID: <20020408031807.3391.qmail@web14909.mail.yahoo.com> First of all, Stand the ocotillo up against something. Keep them moist by watering them every other day including the canes. Palms transplant easy in warm wheather. Be sure to get as much root as top and tie up the fronds as to shade the new center growth. --- Sherryl Stalinski wrote: > Hi all, > We just had a fun-filled weekend stocking up on new > yard "adoptees" and > I have a couple questions: > > I managed to find 3 absolutely huge, beautiful, > supple green bare-root > ocotillos so I grabbed 'em. It may be a week before > I can get them in > the ground, so right now they are just laying on > their side until we can > plant them. Any care to give them/roots until we > have time to dig a few > holes? > > Also, one of the 'new discoveries' I picked up is an > Emu Bush > (eremophila), rainbow variety: one shrub, yellow, > orange, red, lavender > and pink flowers (way too pretty!). A Tucson-ite at > the local plant sale > said she had planted one a couple years that has > thrived, but when I got > home and looked it up it's listed as zones 8,9 and > 14-24 in the WGB, > omitting our desert zones. Says it thrives in heat > though, so I'm > assuming it will be ok? Anyone here with any > experience with this. > > Also, I know its posted a zillion times a month (!), > but we also brought > home several new trees: mesquite, palo verde and > acacia smallii for the > front, arizona ash and eucalyptus for the back > (which will get more > water) and I want to take the best care that they > establish good, deep > root systems and still get enough water to grow as > fast as possible > (just 15 gal. size going in)... so the link to tree > irrigation (that I > never bookmarked cuz I never needed it!) would be > swell :-). Also, since > these trees are young and skinny, I was told they'll > only need to be > staked for about 6 months? Any support/other > opinions? > > > -- > Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. > Vice President, Communications & Technology > ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com > Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at > AOL-IM: AuroraS2 > > Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org > ===================================================== > "I became convinced we are here for each other." > -- R. Buckminster > Fuller > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/ From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Mon Apr 8 03:31:17 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 20:31:17 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200204061659.g36GxB914712@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20020408033117.35165.qmail@web14908.mail.yahoo.com> Before I would blame Texas root rot, I would look at the human factor. If you planted flowers from pots (1 gallon or smaller) did you loosen the roots when you transplanted them? New transplants need to watered deep when planted and could use water every other day or so for the first couple of weeks. Don't fertilize them till they are in the ground about 3 weeks. I use a water meter to test the moisture in the soil and water only when needed. --- BethWertz@msn.com wrote: > If flowers wilt quickly and then die in my flower > bed (especialy pansies and violas) is this called > Texas root rot, and can I get the fungus out of the > soil for next year's plantings? I don't want > everything dying next year in my beds. Thanks Beth > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/ From lazcow@yahoo.com Mon Apr 8 03:35:24 2002 From: lazcow@yahoo.com (lori zimmerman) Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 20:35:24 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: <20020408033524.28589.qmail@web14808.mail.yahoo.com> I want to thank those who responded with information to my questions about how to grow corn. So far my corn field is doing good. But I have another question. I planted the corn about march 18th and the stalks are about 4 to 6 inches tall. I am growing oh-so-sweet (hybrid) on a 12 x 6ft. plot. I think it is supposed to get about 6 feet tall. I have my rows about 17 inches apart and the plants spaced about 6 1/2 inches apart, 2 seeds per spot. I need to thin the plants. Should I leave 2 seeds per spot and thin them to 13 inches apart alternating or should I leave the plants 6 1/2 inches apart and thin to 1 plant per spot? I will also probably plant some squash in the rows. Also, when do I need to fertilize? Thanks, Lori __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/ From wuncent@localnet.com Mon Apr 8 04:23:06 2002 From: wuncent@localnet.com (Linda L. White) Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2002 21:23:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Turf problems References: Message-ID: <3CB11B2A.42323672@localnet.com> Thank you for your help. Linda -- I can also be contacted at: wuncent@yahoo.com From sjbass@qwest.net Mon Apr 8 05:26:00 2002 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2002 22:26:00 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Summer sun-loving flowers References: <4.3.2.7.2.20020404095549.00b2f5a0@mail.storyteller.net> Message-ID: <3CB129E7.E6DDC936@qwest.net> Michelle: Use the following link to go to our publications page http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Flowers then click on publication AZ1100. There are two files there. One is a table and one is text. The table will show you which plants are attractive to butterflies, hummingbirds, etc., which are full sun, which are part shade, which are drought tolerant, etc. Sue Bass Master Gardener Michelle B wrote: > Thanks for your response. Actually, at this point I have few requirements, > the most important being sun-loving flowers. As the planter will border the > lawn on one side and the porch on the other, the plants really shouldn't be > wider than 4 ft max., preferably smaller. Will be no foot traffic thru the > planter. Yes on pots. Fragrance, butterflies, hummers nice but not > requirements. I am looking, quite honestly, for the "laundry list'," of > flowers that do exceptionally well in the summer sun. I am researching all > the plants I hear of that sound like they might work, so that the ones I > finally choose will have similar watering, drainage and soil requirements. > I do have several of Sunset's books, including Perennials, which I fly to > whenever I catch another flower's name. > > I appreciate your help! Thank you. > Michelle > > At 05:32 PM 4/3/02 -0700, you wrote: > Are you looking for fragrance ? Height ? a stacked look, with smaller stuff > in front ? Do you have any pet / kid traffic to worry about ? Is the back of > the planter up against a wall, or does it " front " on the porch ? Do you > want to attract any particular kinds of wildlife ? Hummingbirds ? > Butterflies ? Do you want a continuous display of flowers, or just one big > splash in spring ? > > There are lots of plants that will fit your requirements; your question is > too open-ended. I'd use perennials / flowering shrubs at the back, then > layer other stuff in front. It may be a few seasons before you get exactly > what you want; be patient. This months " Sunset " magazine has a great > section on perennials. Go to the nursery and ask them, look around and see > what you like. Do a little more research then go for it. Are you going to > put in drip irrigation on a timer, or will you always be there to water ? > Can you integrate pots into the design ? A little more info, and I might be > able to give you some useful solutions as opposed to a litany / laundry list > of favorite plants. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Michelle B" > To: "Arid_Gardener" > Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 2002 3:59 PM > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Summer sun-loving flowers > > > I'm putting in a new raised 14 ft by 2 ft planter at the back of my porch. > > It will have a 1 ft overhang. This planter will face southwest and full > sun > > from mid-morning thru the rest of the day. So, I am looking for > > sun-worshipping flowers! I would love to hear folk's tried-and-true > > suggestions. > > > > Thanks! > > Michelle, in Avondale > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From millero@worldnet.att.net Mon Apr 8 05:48:41 2002 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 22:48:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [Arid_gardener]Sweet Corn Spacing References: <20020408033524.28589.qmail@web14808.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <004d01c1dec1$f06e4f20$8953530c@j0r9501> I would thin to one plant 13 inches apart. Too dense will reduce yield and ear size Squash may not get enough sun with the dense corn plants. If you did not fertilize before planting, you could side dress at 8-10 inches in height, again at about 20 inches, and finally just as tasseling starts. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "lori zimmerman" >... >...I have my rows > about 17 inches apart and the plants spaced about 6 > 1/2 inches apart, 2 seeds per spot. I need to thin > the plants. Should I leave 2 seeds per spot and thin > them to 13 inches apart alternating or should I leave > the plants 6 1/2 inches apart and thin to 1 plant per > spot? I will also probably plant some squash in the > rows. Also, when do I need to fertilize? Thanks, > Lori > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax > http://taxes.yahoo.com/ > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From s2@arcworldwide.com Mon Apr 8 13:53:17 2002 From: s2@arcworldwide.com (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 06:53:17 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Planting and Staking Trees References: Message-ID: <3CB1A0CD.D028BC7@arcworldwide.com> Thanks, Rod! > If the trees will not stand up by themselves they will require double staking, remove the stake that > came from the nursery. They didn't come staked from the nursery. The trees have trunks about 1 to 1-1/2 dia., about 7-8 feet. If they stand just fine after planting, do I need to stake them? All the smaller (3-4 ft) trees I planted last year are thriving. Fortunately, we have very little caliche on our property (although it's a good reminder to test anyway) -- Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. Vice President, Communications & Technology ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org ===================================================== "I became convinced we are here for each other." -- R. Buckminster Fuller From rmford1@mindspring.com Mon Apr 8 15:00:30 2002 From: rmford1@mindspring.com (Renea Ford) Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 08:00:30 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Transplanting a mesquite Message-ID: <003701c1df0e$21c85d80$b52db83f@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0034_01C1DED3.743CEC60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I want to move a two-year old (?) mesquite from its current location to = another, and put a year-old (?) sweet acacia in the mesquite's place. = However, I know the hole for the acacia shouldn't be deeper than the = rootball. How do I save the mesquite's roots and yet not make a hole = that's too deep for the acacia being planted in that spot? Also any reference sites for transplanting trees from one site to = another? ------=_NextPart_000_0034_01C1DED3.743CEC60 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I want to move a two-year old (?) mesquite from its = current=20 location to another, and put a year-old (?) sweet acacia in the = mesquite's=20 place. However, I know the hole for the acacia shouldn't be deeper = than=20 the rootball. How do I save the mesquite's roots and yet not = make a=20 hole that's too deep for the acacia being planted in that = spot?

Also any reference sites for transplanting trees = from one site=20 to another?

------=_NextPart_000_0034_01C1DED3.743CEC60-- From rmford1@mindspring.com Mon Apr 8 15:11:54 2002 From: rmford1@mindspring.com (Renea Ford) Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 08:11:54 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Agave parryi Message-ID: <006201c1df0f$b90c9e80$b52db83f@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_005F_01C1DED5.0B9810C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have several agave parryis that have cream colored discolorations on = them: some spots are very small, some large. The cream spot is = indented from the blue-green flesh. I saw the oval-shaped casings of = something stuck next to one of the new spots right after our rain the = other night. Is this a fungus, how do I get rid of it as otherwise they = are very nice specimens? ------=_NextPart_000_005F_01C1DED5.0B9810C0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I have several agave parryis that have cream colored = discolorations on them: some spots are very small, some = large. The=20 cream spot is indented from the blue-green flesh. I saw the = oval-shaped=20 casings of something stuck next to one of the new spots right after our = rain the=20 other night. Is this a fungus, how do I get rid of it as otherwise = they=20 are very nice specimens?

------=_NextPart_000_005F_01C1DED5.0B9810C0-- From marriportia@yahoo.com Mon Apr 8 15:16:19 2002 From: marriportia@yahoo.com (Collom Marri) Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 08:16:19 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mexan Fan Palms Message-ID: <20020408151619.68503.qmail@web12105.mail.yahoo.com> --0-943478717-1018278979=:68485 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Hi Jake thanks for your timely advice on the almond trees, you probably saved their lives! My second question was about the Mexican fan palms that spout up all over my yard, I would like to share w/friends as of yet have been unsuccessful in transplanting them. Any suggestion would be much appreciated. Thanks , Marri --------------------------------- Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax --0-943478717-1018278979=:68485 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

Hi Jake thanks for your timely advice on the almond trees, you probably saved their lives!

My second question was about the Mexican fan palms that spout up all over my yard, I would like to share w/friends as of yet have been unsuccessful in transplanting them. Any suggestion would be much appreciated.

Thanks , Marri

Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax --0-943478717-1018278979=:68485-- From rmford1@mindspring.com Mon Apr 8 15:17:16 2002 From: rmford1@mindspring.com (Renea Ford) Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 08:17:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gaillardia Message-ID: <006b01c1df10$7c9fc200$b52db83f@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0068_01C1DED5.CB7928C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I want a perennial Gaillardia. Is grandiflora the appropriate one to = purchase? Do you recommend any particular variety? Goblin? Baby Cole? = Do the nurseries really distinguish between the varieties, or do they = just say gaillardia grandiflora, for example? Does it prefer full sun? = Is now the time to plant a container plant or wait till fall? ------=_NextPart_000_0068_01C1DED5.CB7928C0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I want a perennial Gaillardia. Is grandiflora = the=20 appropriate one to purchase? Do you recommend any particular=20 variety? Goblin? Baby Cole? Do the nurseries really=20 distinguish between the varieties, or do they just say gaillardia = grandiflora,=20 for example? Does it prefer full sun? Is now the time to=20 plant a container plant or wait till = fall?

------=_NextPart_000_0068_01C1DED5.CB7928C0-- From rmford1@mindspring.com Mon Apr 8 15:23:47 2002 From: rmford1@mindspring.com (Renea Ford) Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 08:23:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Water meter Message-ID: <007401c1df11$61fd1aa0$b52db83f@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0071_01C1DED6.B491B4A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable To Jack and others: I would really like to purchase a moisture meter = but am confused with all the different types of moisture meters out = there. Any recommendation as to the type? ------=_NextPart_000_0071_01C1DED6.B491B4A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

To Jack and others: I would really like to = purchase a=20 moisture meter but am confused with all the different types = of moisture=20 meters out there. Any recommendation as to the=20 type?

------=_NextPart_000_0071_01C1DED6.B491B4A0-- From s2@arcworldwide.com Mon Apr 8 15:42:39 2002 From: s2@arcworldwide.com (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 08:42:39 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gaillardia References: <006b01c1df10$7c9fc200$b52db83f@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <3CB1BA6F.1FFECC3E@arcworldwide.com> Renea, The WGB lists Goblin as a variety of grandiflora, which is listed as the perennial variety of gaillardia. I'm assuming they are short-lived perennials. Gaillardia like full sun and heat, bloom all summer. Now is a good time to plant, just keep your container off porch steps where the rabbits can still get at them (says I from experience!) They need a little extra water in containers. Good luck. (not a master gardener) > Renea Ford wrote: > > I want a perennial Gaillardia. Is grandiflora the appropriate one to > purchase? Do you recommend any particular variety? Goblin? Baby > Cole? Do the nurseries really distinguish between the varieties, or > do they just say gaillardia grandiflora, for example? Does it prefer > full sun? Is now the time to plant a container plant or wait till > fall? -- Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. Vice President, Communications & Technology ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org ===================================================== "I became convinced we are here for each other." -- R. Buckminster Fuller From nanagusgus@aol.com Mon Apr 8 17:25:55 2002 From: nanagusgus@aol.com (nanagusgus@aol.com) Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 10:25:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204081725.g38HPt900963@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a verbena given to me. when i call nurseries they can't answer my question? what kind is it and more importantly how big does it get?? It says: TAPIEN/TM BLUE on it.I need to know so i know the size of ground i need to put it in. Thank You. From revans215@cox.net Mon Apr 8 18:04:11 2002 From: revans215@cox.net (revans215@cox.net) Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 11:04:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204081804.g38I4B915327@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a problem with dogs and cats constantly doing their thing in my yard. What can I put down to steer them away from my yard. I've tried ammonia, but you have to keep applying it. From crymer@Ag.arizona.edu Mon Apr 8 18:19:21 2002 From: crymer@Ag.arizona.edu (Cathy Rymer) Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 11:19:21 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200204061632.g36GWP911112@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20020408104241.00b6fbf0@ag.arizona.edu> There is a product used in the livestock industry that absorbs odors in pet areas. Zeolite is a mined mineral that traps ammonia gas and is non toxic to humans and pets. It is marketed under several trade names including Odorzout, Sweet PDZ. The Sweet PDZ is available at livestock supply stores in large quantities - 40 lbs for under $10.00 You can read more at http://www.sweetpdz.com/ I hope this helps. Cathy At 09:32 AM 04/06/2002 -0700, azdeetom@aol.com wrote: >We live in SCW.Az. We have over 15 trees in our backyard and it's very >enjoyable plus shades the sun. The problem is the birds. >I know they were here first but the smell of the droppings is awful. Is >there something I can throw under the trees to disapate the smell. I have >landscapers come every three months to blow out the yard but "that" does >not get picked up...just spread around. >Thank you. >4/6/02 > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Catherine Rymer Instructional Specialist, Sr., Urban Horticulture University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Phoenix, AZ 85040 http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ From gingerb2l@netscape.net Mon Apr 8 18:34:36 2002 From: gingerb2l@netscape.net (gingerb2l@netscape.net) Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 11:34:36 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204081834.g38IYa925848@Ag.arizona.edu> do strawberries and blueberries do well here From djhillis@qwest.net Mon Apr 8 19:45:06 2002 From: djhillis@qwest.net (djhillis@qwest.net) Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 12:45:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204081945.g38Jj6918637@Ag.arizona.edu> I have 2 questions; Where can I go for various types of bamboo to purchase here in the Phoenix area; and my Giant Bird of Paradise(white flower variety) has some of its fans,or parts of fans,are brown and seem to be dead. Do I leave them alone or trim them off or fertilize, or what? Thanks Dennis From kscudder@arrow.com Mon Apr 8 20:47:38 2002 From: kscudder@arrow.com (kscudder@arrow.com) Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 13:47:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204082047.g38Klc910684@Ag.arizona.edu> There is a tiny yellow bug on my Desert Milkweed plant. They are just on the ends are about the size of a pinhead. I sprayed a sulfur fungicide on it but they are still there. Do you think they are harmless? Thanks much! From katjm13@hotmail.com Mon Apr 8 21:19:16 2002 From: katjm13@hotmail.com (Kathleen Meyer) Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 14:19:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Herb Sale and Book Fair Message-ID: Tucson Botanical Gardens Herb Fair and Author Event Saturday, April 27th Tucson Botanical Gardens 2150 North Alvernon Way Tucson, Arizona 85712 Tucson Botanical Gardens invites you to a fun and information-filled day during their annual herb fair and author event. TBG Annual Herb Sale: 9:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. - A large variety of herbs for cooking, fragrance, and teas will be available. Regional native herbs will also be featured along with favorites from the TBG Herb Garden. Author Event: 9:00 a.m. to 12:00 p.m. � A rare opportunity to visit with some of Southern Arizona�s best-known experts on gardening, nature and the environment , and pick up personally-autographed copies of their books. Signing will be: George Brookbank, Mary Rose Duffield, Richard Felger, Roseann Hanson, Mary Irish, Gayle Jandrey, Warren Jones, Lynn Kaufman , Margarita Kay, Susan Lowell, Christine Maxa, Greg McNamee, Scott Millard, Kim Nelson, Meg Quinn, Barbara Tellman Children�s Activities: 10:00 a.m. - Susie Lowell will be reading a selection on folk tales from her new book Saguaro: the Desert Giant. 10:30 a.m. - Gayle Jandrey will be reading her book The Millipede and Other Less Embraceable Friends. Throughout the day - Visit with some creepy and crawly desert critters from Sonoran Arthropod Studies Institute. Expert Steve Prchal will be on hand to answer questions about these fascinating creatures. For further information, contact Greg Corman, Tucson Botanical Gardens at 326-9686 ext. 20, or Kathleen Meyer, Rio Nuevo Publishers at 623-9558. _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From inksparrow@usa.net Mon Apr 8 21:26:01 2002 From: inksparrow@usa.net (D Sparrow) Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 14:26:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200204082047.g38Klc910684@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <00f601c1df44$042cf570$141b6541@deborahc299sug> probably aphids. not a big problem. I just saw a bunch of bright yellow ones on a milkweed. I wouldn't worry about about few aphids. You can remove them by hand if you like. Or ignore them. If you have a lot of aphids then it can stress the plant. You can remove them by hand or hose them with water. a little soap in the water is ok, too. This kind of treatment is the first thing to try on most bugs. Cheap, effective, easy and not poisonous. Sent: Monday, April 08, 2002 1:47 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > There is a tiny yellow bug on my Desert Milkweed plant. They are just on the ends are about the size of a pinhead. I sprayed a sulfur fungicide on it but they are still there. Do you think they are harmless? Thanks much! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From crymer@Ag.arizona.edu Mon Apr 8 21:36:01 2002 From: crymer@Ag.arizona.edu (Cathy Rymer) Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 14:36:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200204082047.g38Klc910684@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20020408141501.00b5a5f0@ag.arizona.edu> What you are most likely seeing on your desert milkweed are aphids. The aphid that feeds on desert milkweed is the same species that is found on oleander. They like young tender terminal shoots and typically colonizes in the early spring. These aphids are common on milkweed and do not seem to impact their health. In fact, soon you should see predatory insects arriving to feast on the aphids. When summer arrives the aphid populations decline. It is very important to correctly identify the pest before applying chemicals to any landscape. The product you applied targets fungus. A fungicide would have no effect on insects. If you have any question about what insect or plant you are dealing with, you can bring a sample to the U of A Cooperative Extension office at 4341 E. Broadway in Phoenix. There is no charge for this service. We should all be very careful when applying chemicals to our environment. A wise Master Gardener once told me "prescription without diagnosis is malpractice". Cathy At 01:47 PM 04/08/2002 -0700, kscudder@arrow.com wrote: >There is a tiny yellow bug on my Desert Milkweed plant. They are just on >the ends are about the size of a pinhead. I sprayed a sulfur fungicide on >it but they are still there. Do you think they are harmless? Thanks much! > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Catherine Rymer Instructional Specialist, Sr., Urban Horticulture University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Phoenix, AZ 85040 http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ From boofie@bigfoot.com Mon Apr 8 21:47:15 2002 From: boofie@bigfoot.com (Jessica Boof Sizemore) Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 14:47:15 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Changing Email address In-Reply-To: <006b01c1d094$eece01a0$6d39bbd0@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <20020408214715.36556.qmail@web10001.mail.yahoo.com> I know it is somewhere in my records, but I can't find it. Can anyone tell me how to change my email address? Thanks, Boof ===== Tucson, Az __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/ From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Apr 8 21:51:57 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 17:51:57 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Transplanting a mesquite Message-ID: <19a.5ff53d.29e36afd@aol.com> --part1_19a.5ff53d.29e36afd_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Take up as much dirt with the root ball with each tree as possible, if the hole for the Acacia is too deep simply fill the hole to the proper depth and tamp down the fill that you put in. Have the new hole already dug for moving the tree and plant the tree immediately. Water right away until the hole will not take any more water. The one year old tree probably can be staked with two lodge poles, however the two year old tree may require three ropes and stakes. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on Arborculture for more info on planting at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_19a.5ff53d.29e36afd_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Take up as much dirt with the root ball with each tree as possible, if the hole for the Acacia is too deep simply fill the hole to the proper depth and tamp down the fill that you put in. Have the new hole already dug for moving the tree and plant the tree immediately. Water right away until the hole will not take any more water. The one year old tree probably can be staked with two lodge poles, however the two year old tree may require three ropes and stakes.
Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on Arborculture for more info on planting at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/index.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_19a.5ff53d.29e36afd_boundary-- From webmaster@amwest-travel.com Mon Apr 8 22:00:18 2002 From: webmaster@amwest-travel.com (webmaster@amwest-travel.com) Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 15:00:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204082200.g38M0I907347@Ag.arizona.edu> My blood orange tree is in the ground four years. First two years showed modest growth and a few small fruit. Last year, it flowered but didn't set fruit and grew like crazy instead, doubling in size. This year, no flowers at all, but again growing like crazy. What's the problem here? The tree is eight feet tall, looks extremely healthy, yet no fruit for last two years. My other 3 citrus trees all acting normally. Thanks for help!! From lizavet@cox.net Mon Apr 8 22:30:08 2002 From: lizavet@cox.net (lizavet@cox.net) Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 15:30:08 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204082230.g38MU8917373@Ag.arizona.edu> Hi, I am pulling up some of the spent wildflowers in my yard (Bluebells and poppys). I was wondering what is the proper method of preparing and/or storing seeds for planting in the fall. The Bluebells are dried up and most of the seeds fall out readily, however the Poppy seed pods are still not fully dried out. Thanks, Lizavet From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Tue Apr 9 02:39:41 2002 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 19:39:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Agave parryi problem Message-ID: <002d01c1df6f$d042fee0$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_002A_01C1DF35.2073B840 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi Renea, There are not many pests or diseases that affect agave's. I think that = your problem is a mechanical one rather than due to pests or disease. I = believe that you have a condition known as water spotting. It is caused = by water splashing on the plants when you are watering them. It = manifests itself as spots or lesions on the leaves. They start out as = tan or cream colored spots. They change to orange and then to a hard = round black spot. While this condition is unsightly, it does not harm = the plant. Scott Rogers MG ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Renea Ford=20 To: Scott Rogers=20 Sent: Monday, April 08, 2002 9:17 AM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Agave parryi Scott, Yes, I water them at ground level, usually once per month in warm = weather. For the one in the pot, I water it when dry. They don't get = any shade. They were planted in August by the landscaper. I noticed = the cream colored "holes" soon after, however, I expect my watering = pattern was different back then before I attended all the classes at the = Garden and cities. The holes are forming even on the brand new growth. ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Scott Rogers=20 To: Renea Ford=20 Sent: Monday, April 08, 2002 8:26 AM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Agave parryi Do you water your agave's? If you do, how do you water them? When = did you first notice the problem? Do the agave's get any shade, if so = when? How long have you had the plants? Scott Rogers MG ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Renea Ford=20 To: Master Gardener=20 Sent: Monday, April 08, 2002 8:11 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Agave parryi I have several agave parryis that have cream colored = discolorations on them: some spots are very small, some large. The = cream spot is indented from the blue-green flesh. I saw the oval-shaped = casings of something stuck next to one of the new spots right after our = rain the other night. Is this a fungus, how do I get rid of it as = otherwise they are very nice specimens? ------=_NextPart_000_002A_01C1DF35.2073B840 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hi = Renea,

There are not many pests or diseases = that affect=20 agave's. I think that your problem is a mechanical one rather than due = to=20 pests or disease. I believe that you have a condition known as water = spotting.=20 It is caused by water splashing on the plants when you are watering = them. It=20 manifests itself as spots or lesions on the leaves. They start out as = tan or=20 cream colored spots. They change to = orange and=20 then to a hard round black spot. While this condition is unsightly, it = does=20 not harm the plant.

Scott Rogers

MG

----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Renea=20 Ford
To: Scott Rogers

Sent: Monday, April 08, 2002 = 9:17=20 AM

Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] = Agave=20 parryi

Scott,

Yes, I water them at ground level, usually once = per month=20 in warm weather. For the one in the pot, I water it when = dry. =20 They don't get any shade. They were planted in August by the=20 landscaper. I noticed the cream colored "holes" soon after, = however, I=20 expect my watering pattern was different back then before I attended = all the=20 classes at the Garden and cities. The holes are forming even = on the=20 brand new growth.

----- Original Message ----- =
From:=20 Scott Rogers =
To: Renea Ford

Sent: Monday, April 08, = 2002 8:26=20 AM

Subject: Re: = [Arid_gardener] Agave=20 parryi

Do you water your agave's? If you = do, how do=20 you water them? When did you first notice the problem? Do the = agave's get=20 any shade, if so when? How long have you had the = plants?

Scott Rogers

MG

----- Original Message ----- =
From:=20 Renea Ford
To: Master Gardener =

Sent: Monday, April 08, = 2002 8:11=20 AM

Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Agave=20 parryi

I have several agave parryis that have cream = colored=20 discolorations on them: some spots are very small, some=20 large. The cream spot is indented from the blue-green = flesh. =20 I saw the oval-shaped casings of something stuck next to one of = the new=20 spots right after our rain the other night. Is this a = fungus, how=20 do I get rid of it as otherwise they are very nice=20 = specimens?
------=_NextPart_000_002A_01C1DF35.2073B840-- From BgbgL@aol.com Tue Apr 9 03:07:35 2002 From: BgbgL@aol.com (BgbgL@aol.com) Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 20:07:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204090307.g3937Z924652@Ag.arizona.edu> Hello. We are trying to cover a huge side wall in our back yard (north wall with southern exposure... full sun). We are trying to xeriscape as much as possible and we feel we are doing ok. But we wish to find a good evergreen vine if we can. The main reasons being to cover the wall, to keep the wall cooler and and to create a more oasis area since this is close to the house. We would like evergreen if possible and perhaps some flowers We have tnought about two choices rosa banksiae lutea which would be appropriate. We have also fallen in love with bignonia capreolata. Yes...apologies for it not being a southwest plant but it has a lot of things going for it. More constant flowering, shoots not coming up all over like a trumpet creeper (so we have been told) almost always evergreen, colorful flowers and some purple color shades in the fall/winter. Does anyone have any thoughts on this plant? pros and cons are appreciated. It would be in a shelterd yard yet have enough air circulation and on an irrigation drip. One local nursery in Tucson loves it and many people do on line. However two landscapers are hesistant because they say they do not know enough about it Is it a good choice? Thank you Barbara From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Tue Apr 9 14:43:36 2002 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 07:43:36 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200204082200.g38M0I907347@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <002801c1dfd4$efeafc60$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> Since your other three citrus trees are alright, I do not think that there is anything to worry about with your blood orange tree. After I sampled a blood orange at my first Citrus Clinic, I was so impressed with the flavor that I thought that I had to have one. When I found out that this variety took five years or more to bear fruit and since at my age, I don't even buy green bannanas, I decided not to plant one. Hang in there. Scott Rogers MG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, April 08, 2002 3:00 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > My blood orange tree is in the ground four years. > First two years showed modest growth and a few small > fruit. Last year, it flowered but didn't set > fruit and grew like crazy instead, doubling in > size. This year, no flowers at all, but again > growing like crazy. What's the problem here? > The tree is eight feet tall, looks extremely > healthy, yet no fruit for last two years. My > other 3 citrus trees all acting normally. > Thanks for help!! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rmford1@mindspring.com Tue Apr 9 15:40:14 2002 From: rmford1@mindspring.com (Renea Ford) Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 08:40:14 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] E-mail responses Message-ID: <004501c1dfdc$d9102e40$5e11b83f@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0042_01C1DFA2.2B73F440 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi. This is my first listserve and I am confused. I know when I send = an original message to Master Gardener, everyone on the listserve = receives my question. Then I receive very helpful responses from Master = Gardeners (and other knowledgeable listserve members) who seem to have = their own e-mail addresses. Is everyone on the listserve getting the = benefit of their responses or just me, as these individuals who reply = address their response to my personal e-mail address? Also, when I = respond back (to seemingly their personal e-mail address), does everyone = receive my response or just the person who sent the original response? Does one Master Gardener know what another Master Gardener (or = knowledgeable person) e-mailed me so as not to be duplicative and to = potentially broaden their knowledge base as well? Thanks, Renea ------=_NextPart_000_0042_01C1DFA2.2B73F440 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi. This is my first listserve and I am confused. I = know when I=20 send an original message to Master Gardener, everyone on the listserve = receives=20 my question. Then I receive very helpful responses from Master = Gardeners=20 (and other knowledgeable listserve members) who seem to have their own = e-mail=20 addresses. Is everyone on the listserve getting the benefit of = their=20 responses or just me, as these individuals who reply address their = response=20 to my personal e-mail address? Also, when I respond back (to = seemingly=20 their personal e-mail address), does everyone receive my response = or just=20 the person who sent the original response?

Does one Master Gardener know what another Master Gardener (or=20 knowledgeable person) e-mailed me so as not to be duplicative and = to=20 potentially broaden their knowledge base as well?

Thanks, Renea
------=_NextPart_000_0042_01C1DFA2.2B73F440-- From sjbass@qwest.net Tue Apr 9 13:26:07 2002 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002 06:26:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] More information on Summer Sun-loving Flowers Message-ID: <3CB2EBEF.5197A2D4@qwest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------07368191D3F5EA104D36847F Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Michelle: Here is another response that came in for you . . . Sue Bass M.G. --------------07368191D3F5EA104D36847F Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: sjbass@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 62458 invoked by uid 0); 9 Apr 2002 13:02:42 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO mail7.uswest.net) (63.226.138.7) by mpls-mailin-04.inet.qwest.net with SMTP; 9 Apr 2002 13:02:42 -0000 Received: (qmail 59149 invoked by uid 0); 9 Apr 2002 13:02:42 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO imo-d10.mx.aol.com) (205.188.157.42) by mail7.uswest.net with SMTP; 9 Apr 2002 13:02:42 -0000 Received: from Seedfiendcc@aol.com by imo-d10.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v32.5.) id z.151.bf8f691 (3311) for ; Tue, 9 Apr 2002 09:02:39 -0400 (EDT) Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 09:02:39 EDT Message-ID: <151.bf8f691.29e4406f@aol.com> From: Seedfiendcc@aol.com To: sjbass@qwest.net Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Summer sun-loving flowers MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_151.bf8f691.29e4406f_boundary" X-Mailer: AOL 6.0 for Windows US sub 10560 X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 --part1_151.bf8f691.29e4406f_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit You can depend upon Marigolds, Sunflowers, Cosmos, Tithonia, and moss roses. Alot of people have great luck with Vincas and Celosias--but I have fungi problems with those. Marigolds are EASY from seed--don't even bother with transplants. You can often get discount marigold seed at dollar, drug and close-out stores--I've found seed packs 10 for a dollar. They come in wonderful warm color combos now, too. Allow marigolds to grow closer together than the seed instructions recommend--it protects them from the heat's evaporative effect and keeps the foliage looking nicer. Pinch off their dying flower heads religiously, and you'll have blooms all summer. Sunflowers are also easy from seed. If you plant some every two weeks through the summer, you'll have an unending supply of flower heads during warm weather. Sunflowers don't like to be transplanted. Cosmos can be found as transplants, but they are also easy from seed. They will continue blooming through the summer. They are often tall and lanky, and look best as background plants. Tithonia is the Mexican sunflower. It is somewhat coarse-looking and large--up to 6' by 6'--but it attracts butterflies and has wonderful 3'"-4" diameter brilliant orange flowers until frost. It is considered a flowering screen-type plant. It is also very dependable. Moss roses are dependable and are easily found as bedding plants in a month or so. If you can find pelleted seed, it is quite easy to grow from seed. If not pelleted, the seeds are too small to manage. Zinnias are easy from seed, but they burn out rather fast. Usually by mid-summer I want to pull them, because they look so beaten. The best of luck. CCarlson --part1_151.bf8f691.29e4406f_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit You can depend upon Marigolds, Sunflowers, Cosmos, Tithonia, and moss roses. Alot of people have great luck with Vincas and Celosias--but I have fungi problems with those.

Marigolds are EASY from seed--don't even bother with transplants. You can often get discount marigold seed at dollar, drug and close-out stores--I've found seed packs 10 for a dollar. They come in wonderful warm color combos now, too. Allow marigolds to grow closer together than the seed instructions recommend--it protects them from the heat's evaporative effect and keeps the foliage looking nicer. Pinch off their dying flower heads religiously, and you'll have blooms all summer.

Sunflowers are also easy from seed. If you plant some every two weeks through the summer, you'll have an unending supply of flower heads during warm weather. Sunflowers don't like to be transplanted.

Cosmos can be found as transplants, but they are also easy from seed. They will continue blooming through the summer. They are often tall and lanky, and look best as background plants.

Tithonia is the Mexican sunflower. It is somewhat coarse-looking and large--up to 6' by 6'--but it attracts butterflies and has wonderful 3'"-4" diameter brilliant orange flowers until frost. It is considered a flowering screen-type plant. It is also very dependable.

Moss roses are dependable and are easily found as bedding plants in a month or so. If you can find pelleted seed, it is quite easy to grow from seed. If not pelleted, the seeds are too small to manage.

Zinnias are easy from seed, but they burn out rather fast. Usually by mid-summer I want to pull them, because they look so beaten.

The best of luck. CCarlson --part1_151.bf8f691.29e4406f_boundary-- --------------07368191D3F5EA104D36847F-- From copper@bargainsail.com Tue Apr 9 18:47:23 2002 From: copper@bargainsail.com (Copper Bittner) Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 11:47:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Changing Email address In-Reply-To: <20020408214715.36556.qmail@web10001.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: You can visit the URLs to change your membership status or configuration, including unsubscribing, setting digest-style delivery or disabling delivery altogether (e.g., for a vacation), and so on. In addition to the URL interfaces, you can also use email to make such changes. For more info, send a message to the '-request' address of the list (for example, mac-mg-mgt-request@Ag.Arizona.Edu) containing just the word 'help' in the message body, and an email message will be sent to you with instructions. If you have questions, problems, comments, etc, send them to mailman-owner@Ag.arizona.edu. Thanks! Hope this helps. Otherwise go to the www.ag.arizona.edu and follow the links. Copper Bittner Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Jessica Boof Sizemore Sent: Monday, April 08, 2002 2:47 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Changing Email address I know it is somewhere in my records, but I can't find it. Can anyone tell me how to change my email address? Thanks, Boof ===== Tucson, Az __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/ _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From cenalmor@yahoo.com Tue Apr 9 18:47:33 2002 From: cenalmor@yahoo.com (Barbara Cenalmor) Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 11:47:33 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] E-mail responses In-Reply-To: <004501c1dfdc$d9102e40$5e11b83f@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <20020409184733.45910.qmail@web14704.mail.yahoo.com> --0-1371808247-1018378053=:45908 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Renea, the purpose of a listserve is to share information. The best thing people can do is "Reply All" when replying to a question on the list. That way not only the person that asked it will get an answer but everybody else signed up to the listserve will too. There are times when people get individual responses, which is fine too, but there may be a lot of other people interested in that answer so why not post it for everybody. Barbara C. (Master Gardener) Renea Ford wrote: Hi. This is my first listserve and I am confused. I know when I send an original message to Master Gardener, everyone on the listserve receives my question. Then I receive very helpful responses from Master Gardeners (and other knowledgeable listserve members) who seem to have their own e-mail addresses. Is everyone on the listserve getting the benefit of their responses or just me, as these individuals who reply address their response to my personal e-mail address? Also, when I respond back (to seemingly their personal e-mail address), does everyone receive my response or just the person who sent the original response? Does one Master Gardener know what another Master Gardener (or knowledgeable person) e-mailed me so as not to be duplicative and to potentially broaden their knowledge base as well? Thanks, Renea --------------------------------- Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax --0-1371808247-1018378053=:45908 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Renea,
the purpose of a listserve is to share information. The best thing people can do is "Reply All" when replying to a question on the list. That way not only the person that asked it will get an answer but everybody else signed up to the listserve will too. There are times when people get individual responses, which is fine too, but there may be a lot of other people interested in that answer so why not post it for everybody.
Barbara C. (Master Gardener)
Renea Ford <rmford1@mindspring.com> wrote:

Hi. This is my first listserve and I am confused. I know when I send an original message to Master Gardener, everyone on the listserve receives my question. Then I receive very helpful responses from Master Gardeners (and other knowledgeable listserve members) who seem to have their own e-mail addresses. Is everyone on the listserve getting the benefit of their responses or just me, as these individuals who reply address their response to my personal e-mail address? Also, when I respond back (to seemingly their personal e-mail address), does everyone receive my response or just the person who sent the original response?

Does one Master Gardener know what another Master Gardener (or knowledgeable person) e-mailed me so as not to be duplicative and to potentially broaden their knowledge base as well?

Thanks, Renea

Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax --0-1371808247-1018378053=:45908-- From shoeha@aol.com Tue Apr 9 18:57:06 2002 From: shoeha@aol.com (shoeha@aol.com) Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 11:57:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204091857.g39Iv6916536@Ag.arizona.edu> What type of fertilizer do I use on my queen palms? Why is my bottlebrush tree dropping leaves, it still has the flowers From Donaldengel@hotmail.com Tue Apr 9 19:42:52 2002 From: Donaldengel@hotmail.com (Donaldengel@hotmail.com) Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 12:42:52 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204091942.g39Jgq901264@Ag.arizona.edu> My son found some plants in Surprise AZ that I didn't see in the books I have.I also didn't see them in the Desert Botanical Gardens in Poenix.They are slated to be "bulldosed"to make way for a new center in Surprise.What can I do to see if some-one can save them.They are approx.4'Wx5-6'h.There are about 6 plants.Any help would be appreciated.Don't wait to long though,they're near the field with the road graders now!!!4-9-2002 Don From inksparrow@usa.net Tue Apr 9 20:18:44 2002 From: inksparrow@usa.net (D Sparrow) Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 13:18:44 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200204090307.g3937Z924652@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <012101c1e005$9bc2fcb0$031b6541@deborahc299sug> another vine to consider to cover a wall: Mascagnia macroptera (yellow orchid vine). Very enthusiastic vine, evergreen, will cover a wall and live in full sun happily. It's yellow flowers are beginning to come out about now. I like the seed pods best, they have a great sculptural shape, delicate and almost like wings, larger than the flower is. photo of seedpod at http://www.desert-tropicals.com/Plants/Malpighiaceae/Mascagnia_macroptera.ht ml This vine does not cling to a wall on it's own so it needs some support it can wind around. Mine is supported by wire mesh attached to poles against a wall. It has been deep green since I planted it some years ago. Deb Sparrow MG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, April 08, 2002 8:07 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Hello. We are trying to cover a huge side wall in our back yard (north wall with southern exposure... full sun). We are trying to xeriscape as much as possible and we feel we are doing ok. But we wish to find a good evergreen vine if we can. > > The main reasons being to cover the wall, to keep the wall cooler and and to create a more oasis area since this is close to the house. We would like evergreen if possible and perhaps some flowers > > We have tnought about two choices rosa banksiae lutea which would be appropriate. > > We have also fallen in love with bignonia capreolata. Yes...apologies for it not being a southwest plant but it has a lot of things going for it. More constant flowering, shoots not coming up all over like a trumpet creeper (so we have been told) almost always evergreen, colorful flowers and some purple color shades in the fall/winter. > > Does anyone have any thoughts on this plant? pros and cons are appreciated. It would be in a shelterd yard yet have enough air circulation and on an irrigation drip. One local nursery in Tucson loves it and many people do on line. However two landscapers are hesistant because they say they do not know enough about it > Is it a good choice? > > Thank you > Barbara > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From JakeAndTheHotshots@MSN.com Tue Apr 9 20:32:26 2002 From: JakeAndTheHotshots@MSN.com (JakeAndTheHotshots@MSN.com) Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 13:32:26 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204092032.g39KWQ916792@Ag.arizona.edu> My wiesteria vine (tree)has soot canker. What "broad spectrum fungicide" do I apply to the infected area and how? Thank you, From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Tue Apr 9 21:52:16 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 14:52:16 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Transplanting a mesquite In-Reply-To: <003701c1df0e$21c85d80$b52db83f@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <20020409215216.83738.qmail@web14904.mail.yahoo.com> First dig the new hole for the mesquite and save the dirt. Then dig up the mesquite, be sure to get as much root as possible keeping root and canope equal.Next plant the mesquite. Then fill in the old hole from thr mesquite with the dirt you took out of its new hole to the level for your acaia. --- Renea Ford wrote: > I want to move a two-year old (?) mesquite from its > current location to another, and put a year-old (?) > sweet acacia in the mesquite's place. However, I > know the hole for the acacia shouldn't be deeper > than the rootball. How do I save the mesquite's > roots and yet not make a hole that's too deep for > the acacia being planted in that spot? > > Also any reference sites for transplanting trees > from one site to another? > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/ From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Tue Apr 9 21:55:40 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 14:55:40 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mexan Fan Palms In-Reply-To: <20020408151619.68503.qmail@web12105.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20020409215540.56655.qmail@web14910.mail.yahoo.com> Dig up all the root you can. Tie up the fronds all together at the top and trim the fronds about 20% ONLY if they are big and enough of them --- Collom Marri wrote: > > Hi Jake thanks for your timely advice on the almond > trees, you probably saved their lives! > > My second question was about the Mexican fan palms > that spout up all over my yard, I would like to > share w/friends as of yet have been unsuccessful in > transplanting them. Any suggestion would be much > appreciated. > > Thanks , Marri > > > > --------------------------------- > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/ From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Tue Apr 9 21:57:52 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 14:57:52 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Water meter In-Reply-To: <007401c1df11$61fd1aa0$b52db83f@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <20020409215752.93431.qmail@web14901.mail.yahoo.com> Any will work. Home depot carries 2. One is just a water meter and the other reads water,lite,andPH. --- Renea Ford wrote: > To Jack and others: I would really like to purchase > a moisture meter but am confused with all the > different types of moisture meters out there. Any > recommendation as to the type? > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/ From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Tue Apr 9 22:01:45 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 15:01:45 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200204081804.g38I4B915327@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20020409220145.88680.qmail@web14908.mail.yahoo.com> Short of a 12 gauge shotgun, its hard to keep stray pets out of a whole yard. I have 6 cats and a dog and keep them out of veggie and flower beds with mothballs. --- revans215@cox.net wrote: > I have a problem with dogs and cats constantly doing > their thing in my yard. What can I put down to > steer them away from my yard. I've tried ammonia, > but you have to keep applying it. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/ From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Tue Apr 9 22:04:44 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 15:04:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200204081834.g38IYa925848@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20020409220445.95310.qmail@web14901.mail.yahoo.com> Strawberries yes, blueberries not so yes.Besides, blueberreis stain your lips and tongue. --- gingerb2l@netscape.net wrote: > do strawberries and blueberries do well here > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/ From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Tue Apr 9 22:11:19 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 15:11:19 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200204082230.g38MU8917373@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20020409221119.87142.qmail@web14904.mail.yahoo.com> leave the poppies till the pod dry then cut them off the plant --- lizavet@cox.net wrote: > Hi, > I am pulling up some of the spent wildflowers in my > yard (Bluebells and poppys). I was wondering what is > the proper method of preparing and/or storing seeds > for planting in the fall. The Bluebells are dried > up and most of the seeds fall out readily, however > the Poppy seed pods are still not fully dried out. > Thanks, > Lizavet > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/ From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Tue Apr 9 22:17:43 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 15:17:43 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bood orange In-Reply-To: <200204082200.g38M0I907347@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20020409221743.65817.qmail@web14905.mail.yahoo.com> All citrus are not alike. They are like children. some will grow out of dypers sooner than others.It is not abnormal for some citrus trees to take 3-4 years to bare fruit. If you are watering deep and at the proper frequency, fertilizing when you should,it will produce in its own good time. --- webmaster@amwest-travel.com wrote: > My blood orange tree is in the ground four years. > First two years showed modest growth and a few small > fruit. Last year, it flowered but didn't set > fruit and grew like crazy instead, doubling in > size. This year, no flowers at all, but again > growing like crazy. What's the problem here? > The tree is eight feet tall, looks extremely > healthy, yet no fruit for last two years. My > other 3 citrus trees all acting normally. > Thanks for help!! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/ From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Tue Apr 9 22:21:40 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 15:21:40 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [Arid_gardener] In-Reply-To: <200204090307.g3937Z924652@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20020409222140.86485.qmail@web14913.mail.yahoo.com> A south facing wall gets a lot of HOT summer heat.I reccomenda trellis about 6-8 inches from the wall and a vine like cats claw should work. --- BgbgL@aol.com wrote: > Hello. We are trying to cover a huge side wall in > our back yard (north wall with southern exposure... > full sun). We are trying to xeriscape as much as > possible and we feel we are doing ok. But we wish > to find a good evergreen vine if we can. > > The main reasons being to cover the wall, to keep > the wall cooler and and to create a more oasis area > since this is close to the house. We would like > evergreen if possible and perhaps some flowers > > We have tnought about two choices rosa banksiae > lutea which would be appropriate. > > We have also fallen in love with bignonia > capreolata. Yes...apologies for it not being a > southwest plant but it has a lot of things going for > it. More constant flowering, shoots not coming up > all over like a trumpet creeper (so we have been > told) almost always evergreen, colorful flowers and > some purple color shades in the fall/winter. > > Does anyone have any thoughts on this plant? pros > and cons are appreciated. It would be in a shelterd > yard yet have enough air circulation and on an > irrigation drip. One local nursery in Tucson loves > it and many people do on line. However two > landscapers are hesistant because they say they do > not know enough about it > Is it a good choice? > > Thank you > Barbara > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/ From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Tue Apr 9 22:25:42 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 15:25:42 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] E-mail responses In-Reply-To: <004501c1dfdc$d9102e40$5e11b83f@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <20020409222542.86858.qmail@web14913.mail.yahoo.com> If your replies are not caboncopying the listserve, only you are getting the replys. The same hold true for your answers to them. --- Renea Ford wrote: > Hi. This is my first listserve and I am confused. > I know when I send an original message to Master > Gardener, everyone on the listserve receives my > question. Then I receive very helpful responses > from Master Gardeners (and other knowledgeable > listserve members) who seem to have their own e-mail > addresses. Is everyone on the listserve getting the > benefit of their responses or just me, as these > individuals who reply address their response to my > personal e-mail address? Also, when I respond back > (to seemingly their personal e-mail address), does > everyone receive my response or just the person who > sent the original response? > > Does one Master Gardener know what another Master > Gardener (or knowledgeable person) e-mailed me so as > not to be duplicative and to potentially broaden > their knowledge base as well? > > Thanks, Renea > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/ From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Tue Apr 9 22:36:49 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 15:36:49 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question 3 dead trees In-Reply-To: <002801c1d842$2e5443c0$465c0344@ph.cox.net> Message-ID: <20020409223649.76344.qmail@web14902.mail.yahoo.com> The trees are in the ground 6 months or more.They should be getting watered with 6-8 2gallon per hour emitters every 10-14 days as we go into summer and be watred for at least 5-7 hours as you want the water to get down 3 feet where the roots are. PS the emitters should be at the dripline and not the trunk. --- Paige wrote: > I'm not a very knowledgeable gardner but I will give > you my best memory of > each tree. The area of planting is in my back yard > which on the north side > of my house. Plenty of sun. The first was a "sisso" > or something like > that, the second was an Australian willow of which I > bought two. The other > one I planted 20 feet away is doing great, go > figure. The third was a ficus > type I think but I'm not too sure about that one. > As for the drippers there > are two with large capacity drippers which were set > by the landscapers (Nov > 99) to 30 min once weekly as I recall. Later the > nursery told me to reset > for summer time at 30 min twice weekly. > I must admit, after the first tree died and I had > dug it out, the ground was > obviously too wet. So I checked the system for > leaks, etc. and found my > back door neighbor was watering his plants much more > than he needed to. That > may have affected my yard as we live in a small > patio type community with > only feet from my tree to the fence line. He since > has stopped that and the > ground appears to have been draining adequately now. > I was very careful to > watch the watering of this last tree and I know it > was not overwatered. > Maybe underwatered? I have three other ficus type > trees around my pond and > they are doing great with the same watering > system/time. > Thank you for responding. I do truly appreciate any > help you can give. My > yard is really important to me and I just hate it > when I can't get things > growing. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: jack blake > To: > Cc: > Sent: Friday, March 29, 2002 7:43 PM > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question 3 dead trees > > > > Lost three trees, now the third degree.What kind > of > > trees? where were they planted?-east side,west > side?? > > How long do you run your drip system?How often do > you > > run it? How many drippers are there to the tree? > This > > info would sure help. > > > > > > > > --- epaigep@cox.net wrote: > > > I have lost 3 trees in the last two years (all > > > planted in the same spot). The yard was > > > professionally landscaped with dripper > irrigation > > > etc. I replanted the second and third trees > myself. > > > All different varieties. They all turned yellow > and > > > slowly lost their leaves until they died over a > > > matter of weeks. > > > I am in a new(two year old development) but I've > dug > > > out the old soil and replaced it twice. Any > ideas on > > > what else I can do? > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > > __________________________________________________ > > Do You Yahoo!? > > Yahoo! Greetings - send holiday greetings for > Easter, Passover > > http://greetings.yahoo.com/ > > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/ From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Apr 9 23:35:57 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 19:35:57 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palms, Fertilizing Message-ID: --part1_a1.2575f21d.29e4d4dd_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The Queen Palm has special nutrient requirements and should be fertilized with a palm fertilizer. Evergreen trees drop their leaves throughout the year however if the leafdrop is excessive be sure that the Bottlebrush tree is being watered adequately. Check out this link for info on proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener . --part1_a1.2575f21d.29e4d4dd_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The Queen Palm has special nutrient requirements and should be fertilized with a palm fertilizer.
Evergreen trees drop their leaves throughout the year however if the leafdrop is excessive be sure that the Bottlebrush tree is being watered adequately. Check out this link for info on proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener . --part1_a1.2575f21d.29e4d4dd_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Apr 9 23:35:56 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 19:35:56 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Citrus, four years old without fruit Message-ID: --part1_fd.16575e52.29e4d4dc_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Joe, A tree's age is always calculated from the time it was planted. Be sure that you are watering and fertilizing adequately. Check out this link for info on proper watering: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Good luck. Rod --part1_fd.16575e52.29e4d4dc_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Joe,

A tree's age is always calculated from the time it was planted. Be sure that you are watering and fertilizing adequately. Check out this link for info on proper watering: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf

Good luck.

Rod --part1_fd.16575e52.29e4d4dc_boundary-- From webmaster@amwest-travel.com Wed Apr 10 00:15:42 2002 From: webmaster@amwest-travel.com (webmaster@amwest-travel.com) Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 17:15:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204100015.g3A0Fg903692@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a terrific peach tree. Does anyone have a suggestion for keeping the birds from eating the ripe or almost ripe peaches? I won't use rose netting because it traps lizards which are of great value to the rest of my garden. From watsontl@mindspring.com Wed Apr 10 01:53:44 2002 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 18:53:44 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Transplanting a mesquite References: <003701c1df0e$21c85d80$b52db83f@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <002c01c1e032$8fb56160$7561b83f@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0029_01C1DFF7.DFA2F740 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable You've been getting good advice regarding digging the tree up with as = many roots as possible. Keep in mind, however, that there is no way to = avoid losing roots. You should prune the tree back to keep from having = more leaves that roots. It would be even better if you can wait until = winter, when mesquites are as close to dormant as they get. Tom ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Renea Ford=20 To: Master Gardener=20 Sent: Monday, April 08, 2002 8:00 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Transplanting a mesquite I want to move a two-year old (?) mesquite from its current location = to another, and put a year-old (?) sweet acacia in the mesquite's place. = However, I know the hole for the acacia shouldn't be deeper than the = rootball. How do I save the mesquite's roots and yet not make a hole = that's too deep for the acacia being planted in that spot? =20 Also any reference sites for transplanting trees from one site to = another? ------=_NextPart_000_0029_01C1DFF7.DFA2F740 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
You've been getting good advice regarding digging = the tree up=20 with as many roots as possible. Keep in mind, however, that = there is=20 no way to avoid losing roots. You should prune the tree = back to=20 keep from having more leaves that roots. It would be even = better if=20 you can wait until winter, when mesquites are as close to dormant as = they=20 get.

Tom

----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Renea=20 Ford
To: Master Gardener

Sent: Monday, April 08, 2002 = 8:00=20 AM

Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Transplanting a=20 mesquite

I want to move a two-year old (?) mesquite from = its current=20 location to another, and put a year-old (?) sweet acacia in the=20 mesquite's place. However, I know the hole for the acacia = shouldn't be=20 deeper than the rootball. How do I save the mesquite's = roots and=20 yet not make a hole that's too deep for the acacia being planted in = that=20 spot?

Also any reference sites for transplanting trees = from one=20 site to another?

------=_NextPart_000_0029_01C1DFF7.DFA2F740-- From watsontl@mindspring.com Wed Apr 10 01:59:16 2002 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 18:59:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200204100015.g3A0Fg903692@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <004b01c1e033$52990b00$7561b83f@oemcomputer> There are a variety of "scare" devices available in garden catalogs, but I've had mixed results with them. Frankly, netting really is your best bet. You could try tucking the netting in, effectively wrapping the stuff around and under the canopy, to keep it clear of the ground, where most lizards hang out. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2002 5:15 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I have a terrific peach tree. Does anyone > have a suggestion for keeping the birds > from eating the ripe or almost ripe peaches? > I won't use rose netting because it traps > lizards which are of great value to the > rest of my garden. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Apr 10 02:44:51 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002 19:44:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Managing Compost Pile References: <200204040051.g340pv914356@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3CB3A723.6FCF8AB7@qwest.net> I keep the flies and gnats to a minimum by keeping food by-products like fruits and vegetables amply covered with grass clippings and/or sawdust. I have plenty of both and simply keep a smaller pile handy for covering kitchen wastes. Frankly, roaches and ants are helping to turn your compost pile on a miniscule level. Ever since I've had one, at some distance from the house, we don't see insects in the home any longer [bugs are a bigger issue in flood irrigated neighborhoods]. Linda Guy, MG labs5@cox.net wrote: > I recently started a compost pile which seems to be doing pretty good. Good temperature, steam rising when I turn the pile. However, I just recently noticed a roach crawling out of it and I also seem to have a swarm of fruit flies that hang out over the bin. Which bugs are beneficial and which are considered pests, and what is the best way to get rid of the pests? - Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Apr 10 02:48:26 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002 19:48:26 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sooty Canker References: <200204092032.g39KWQ916792@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3CB3A7FA.6E5E904E@qwest.net> Management of this issue is described on our website at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/sooty.htm In terms of application instructions, all we can tell you is to follow the manufacturer's specifications on the label. JakeAndTheHotshots@MSN.com wrote: > My wiesteria vine (tree)has soot canker. What "broad spectrum fungicide" do I apply to the infected area and how? > > Thank you, > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Apr 10 03:00:52 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002 20:00:52 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Saving Wildflower Seeds References: <200204011717.g31HHDi11268@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3CB3AAE4.3CA172AE@qwest.net> Here is an excerpt from a Desert Botanical Garden's info sheet on wildflowers "Seed Collection: If you wish to collect seed from the wildflowers for sowing next year, clip the seed heads when most of the seed is mature [note that the flower is not what is saved, but the seed head that appears after the flower]. Most seed heads turn brown or dark as they begin to ripen, but watch carefully so that the fruit is not so ripe that is splits and disperses seed. Spread the seeds in one layer on a try or paper towels in a warm dry place until they have dried completely. Once separated from the chaff, seed can be stored in an airtight container in a cool dry place." Mexican gold and California poppies [Eschscholzia mexicana and e. californica] are spring bloomers, whereas Arizona poppy [Kallstroemia grandiflora] is a summer bloomer. Linda Guy, MG ldcolgan@earthlink.net wrote: > I have a wildflower garden. In the garden I have white and yellow daisies, red flax, blue flax. I am not sure if I have Arizona poppy or Mexican poppy. Don't quite know the difference. The poppies have four petals and are large flowers. I would like to know if I can pick the dried flowers save the seeds for another area in my yard that I want to convert to a wild flower garden. Any ideas of how I can go about snipping and keeping the dried flowers to be used again? Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Apr 10 03:02:49 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002 20:02:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plant Problem Diagnosis References: <200204011917.g31JH3i11526@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3CB3AB59.F3D1091A@qwest.net> I suggest you contact the master gardeners at the Cooperative Extension Office in Tucson http://ag.arizona.edu/pima/ Better yet, bring them samples to see. Linda Guy, MG epcroll@aol.com wrote: > In Tucson, I have a two year old potted Buddleia davidii. Location: southfacing. For the second year, the leaves are getting black spots - in the middle of the leaf. Those afflicted are turning yellow. big time problem last year - cut back all of the problem branches and leaves. > > Is this a fungus? What are suggested treatments. Thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From inksparrow@usa.net Wed Apr 10 07:57:51 2002 From: inksparrow@usa.net (D Sparrow) Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 00:57:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: Message-ID: <004501c1e065$6cbc4100$fd1e6541@deborahc299sug> Bakers may have them now. A couple of weeks ago they said they would be getting some. Bakers has one in the ground you can look at, too. (Bakers is just north of Thomas on 40th St in Phx) If you want to plant this vine, do consider it's enthusiasm. It grows. This is not a plant for a small spot. I haven't seen it on chain link fences but it might cover one pretty well. I don't know just how tough the vine is. It would be nice to find out. I'd be interested in hearing about other people's experiences with mascagnia macroptera. Mine is on a west facing wall that gets some shade part of the day. The base of it is shaded and the top of it is in the sun all day. It is always green. Deb ----- Original Message ----- From: "Copper Bittner" To: "D Sparrow" Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2002 5:01 PM Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Where do I rind one of these wonderful specimens, Deb? Copper > > -----Original Message----- > From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu > [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of D Sparrow > Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2002 1:19 PM > To: BgbgL@aol.com; Arid_gardener > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > > another vine to consider to cover a wall: > Mascagnia macroptera (yellow orchid vine). > Very enthusiastic vine, evergreen, will cover a wall and live in full sun > happily. > It's yellow flowers are beginning to come out about now. > I like the seed pods best, they have a great sculptural shape, delicate and > almost like wings, larger than the flower is. photo of seedpod at > http://www.desert-tropicals.com/Plants/Malpighiaceae/Mascagnia_macroptera.ht > ml > This vine does not cling to a wall on it's own so it needs some support it > can wind around. Mine is supported by wire mesh attached to poles against a > wall. > It has been deep green since I planted it some years ago. > > Deb Sparrow MG > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: > Sent: Monday, April 08, 2002 8:07 PM > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > > > Hello. We are trying to cover a huge side wall in our back yard (north > wall with southern exposure... full sun). We are trying to xeriscape as > much as possible and we feel we are doing ok. But we wish to find a good > evergreen vine if we can. > > > > The main reasons being to cover the wall, to keep the wall cooler and and > to create a more oasis area since this is close to the house. We would like > evergreen if possible and perhaps some flowers > > > > We have tnought about two choices rosa banksiae lutea which would be > appropriate. > > > > We have also fallen in love with bignonia capreolata. Yes...apologies for > it not being a southwest plant but it has a lot of things going for it. > More constant flowering, shoots not coming up all over like a trumpet > creeper (so we have been told) almost always evergreen, colorful flowers > and some purple color shades in the fall/winter. > > > > Does anyone have any thoughts on this plant? pros and cons are > appreciated. It would be in a shelterd yard yet have enough air circulation > and on an irrigation drip. One local nursery in Tucson loves it and many > people do on line. However two landscapers are hesistant because they say > they do not know enough about it > > Is it a good choice? > > > > Thank you > > Barbara > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > From Seedfiendcc@aol.com Wed Apr 10 11:29:42 2002 From: Seedfiendcc@aol.com (Seedfiendcc@aol.com) Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 07:29:42 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: --part1_a.1d211c69.29e57c26_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit My experience with Mascagnia macroptera is that it will invade tree canopies if it is allowed to. Several strands will twist together as they "climb" in trees, forming a very tough multiple-strand which is difficult to pull out of trees--harder than cat claw. I personally prefer the lavender version--Mascagnia lilacina. It is a much better-behaved vine, because it is less vigorous and usually winter-deciduous. In addition, the flower clusters are so delicate and pretty. It is not easy to find, although Bakers periodically has them. CCarlson --part1_a.1d211c69.29e57c26_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit My experience with Mascagnia macroptera is that it will invade tree canopies if it is allowed to. Several strands will twist together as they "climb" in trees, forming a very tough multiple-strand which is difficult to pull out of trees--harder than cat claw.

I personally prefer the lavender version--Mascagnia lilacina. It is a much better-behaved vine, because it is less vigorous and usually winter-deciduous. In addition, the flower clusters are so delicate and pretty. It is not easy to find, although Bakers periodically has them. CCarlson --part1_a.1d211c69.29e57c26_boundary-- From Jonathan Kandell" <004b01c1e033$52990b00$7561b83f@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <006a01c1e0a2$b7a74100$6e39bbd0@oemcomputer> I second the netting solution. It's worked for my peach tree. Make sure you use a wide enough mesh it won't trap lizards, that's what we do. Also don't put it on till the fruit is eatable, obviously, to avoid traping anything unnecessarily. jk ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom & Linda Watson" To: ; Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2002 6:59 PM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > There are a variety of "scare" devices available in garden catalogs, but > I've had mixed results with them. Frankly, netting really is your best > bet. You could try tucking the netting in, effectively wrapping the stuff > around and under the canopy, to keep it clear of the ground, where most > lizards hang out. > > Tom > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: > Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2002 5:15 PM > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > > > I have a terrific peach tree. Does anyone > > have a suggestion for keeping the birds > > from eating the ripe or almost ripe peaches? > > I won't use rose netting because it traps > > lizards which are of great value to the > > rest of my garden. > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From s2@arcworldwide.com Wed Apr 10 15:40:26 2002 From: s2@arcworldwide.com (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 08:40:26 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] salvia clevelandii References: <200204100015.g3A0Fg903692@Ag.arizona.edu> <004b01c1e033$52990b00$7561b83f@oemcomputer> <006a01c1e0a2$b7a74100$6e39bbd0@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <3CB45CEA.E273780C@arcworldwide.com> I planted a 5 gal salvia clevelandii last spring in front of my porch. It gets watered deeply when it rains since it gets roof run off from the porch. I just give it a squirt with the hose when its dry as it has been (maybe once every couple weeks). My question is its growth habit. I was expecting a nice shrub, and it is beautiful and smells soooooo goood, except that it's now about 6-7 feet in dia. and about 2' high, instead of the 4x4, more upright shrub I was expecting. It grew so densely I pruned off about 1/3 of the lower branches that seemed to be weighing the plant down. It just filled back in, although bounced up just a bit. The thing is growing like crazy right now. Is it too late now to try to do something to make it a bit more upright or will the young outer branches eventually decide to go up? (it's just now starting to bloom for the season). -- Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. Vice President, Communications & Technology ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org ===================================================== "I became convinced we are here for each other." -- R. Buckminster Fuller From ncornell3@cox.net Wed Apr 10 16:44:45 2002 From: ncornell3@cox.net (ncornell3) Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 09:44:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] A question about fungus Message-ID: <002801c1e0af$057d9760$f3f00344@ph.cox.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0025_01C1E074.58E33D00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Threes year ago I had an ancient, rotting navel orange tree removed from = the north side of my house. I planted a variegated lemon tree in its = place. The lemon tree did very nicely for about a year and then it = suddenly died. Last year I noticed a few pieces of dark fungus emerging = in the area where these trees had been. I dug them out. Now they are = back and they seem to be more widely spread. What do you suppose they = are? How do I get rid of them? Could they be dangerous to my dogs? = The soil is rather damp in that area most of the time because we get = flood irrigation and the area is fairly well shaded. Thanks for your help! Nikki ------=_NextPart_000_0025_01C1E074.58E33D00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Threes year ago I had an ancient, = rotting=20 navel orange tree removed from the north side of my house. I = planted=20 a variegated lemon tree in its place. The lemon tree did very = nicely for=20 about a year and then it suddenly died. Last year I noticed a few = pieces=20 of dark fungus emerging in the area where these trees had been. I = dug them=20 out. Now they are back and they seem to be more widely = spread. What=20 do you suppose they are? How do I get rid of them? Could = they be=20 dangerous to my dogs? The soil is rather damp in that area most of = the=20 time because we get flood irrigation and the area is fairly well=20 shaded.

Thanks for your help!

Nikki

------=_NextPart_000_0025_01C1E074.58E33D00-- From popsy97@yahoo.com Wed Apr 10 18:00:58 2002 From: popsy97@yahoo.com (Judy Braden) Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 11:00:58 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] salvia clevelandii In-Reply-To: <3CB45CEA.E273780C@arcworldwide.com> Message-ID: <20020410180058.60992.qmail@web11002.mail.yahoo.com> My Clevelandii grew to about 3-31/2 feet tall and 10 feet wide. I'd cut it back every year but it would be out there even bigger the next. I had it planted too close to a pond and it just got too big around. I loved it but it had to go. I now have another in a spot that it can expand in. Less water seems to retard growth a bit. Judy Braden --- Sherryl Stalinski wrote: > I planted a 5 gal salvia clevelandii last spring in > front of my porch. > It gets watered deeply when it rains since it gets > roof run off from the > porch. I just give it a squirt with the hose when > its dry as it has been > (maybe once every couple weeks). > > My question is its growth habit. I was expecting a > nice shrub, and it is > beautiful and smells soooooo goood, except that it's > now about 6-7 feet > in dia. and about 2' high, instead of the 4x4, more > upright shrub I was > expecting. It grew so densely I pruned off about 1/3 > of the lower > branches that seemed to be weighing the plant down. > It just filled back > in, although bounced up just a bit. The thing is > growing like crazy > right now. > > Is it too late now to try to do something to make it > a bit more upright > or will the young outer branches eventually decide > to go up? (it's just > now starting to bloom for the season). > -- > Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. > Vice President, Communications & Technology > ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com > Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at > AOL-IM: AuroraS2 > > Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org > ===================================================== > "I became convinced we are here for each other." > -- R. Buckminster > Fuller > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/ From copper@bargainsail.com Wed Apr 10 18:50:14 2002 From: copper@bargainsail.com (Copper Bittner) Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 11:50:14 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] salvia clevelandii In-Reply-To: <20020410180058.60992.qmail@web11002.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I had 2 clevlandii. They both got were on an east wall facing west, with only the late afternoon shade from our house. One nearest the ficus natida, suffered so, no matter what cultural needs (or wants) it got. The other is partially shaded by my 3 year old orange tree, hollyhocks and is on the downhill side of my compost heap. It is "squatty", more sideward growth, than tall. It does, however have very purple blossoms and the hummers delight. I admit I have a very nice micro-climate around my house, but I'm trying to find a replacement for the one lost by the natida. It does get hot there with the reflected stucco wall. Hardscape cannot be change per HOA unless your petition and pay. The one that died grew the tallest, but was sparse. I think it just depends on luck...they don't seem to do well here in the full sun they recommend on the can. Copper Bittner Master Gardener Chandler, Maricopa County -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Judy Braden Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2002 11:01 AM To: Sherryl Stalinski; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] salvia clevelandii My Clevelandii grew to about 3-31/2 feet tall and 10 feet wide. I'd cut it back every year but it would be out there even bigger the next. I had it planted too close to a pond and it just got too big around. I loved it but it had to go. I now have another in a spot that it can expand in. Less water seems to retard growth a bit. Judy Braden --- Sherryl Stalinski wrote: > I planted a 5 gal salvia clevelandii last spring in > front of my porch. > It gets watered deeply when it rains since it gets > roof run off from the > porch. I just give it a squirt with the hose when > its dry as it has been > (maybe once every couple weeks). > > My question is its growth habit. I was expecting a > nice shrub, and it is > beautiful and smells soooooo goood, except that it's > now about 6-7 feet > in dia. and about 2' high, instead of the 4x4, more > upright shrub I was > expecting. It grew so densely I pruned off about 1/3 > of the lower > branches that seemed to be weighing the plant down. > It just filled back > in, although bounced up just a bit. The thing is > growing like crazy > right now. > > Is it too late now to try to do something to make it > a bit more upright > or will the young outer branches eventually decide > to go up? (it's just > now starting to bloom for the season). > -- > Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. > Vice President, Communications & Technology > ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com > Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at > AOL-IM: AuroraS2 > > Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org > ===================================================== > "I became convinced we are here for each other." > -- R. Buckminster > Fuller > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/ _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From copper@bargainsail.com Wed Apr 10 19:01:00 2002 From: copper@bargainsail.com (Copper Bittner) Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 12:01:00 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Water meter In-Reply-To: <20020409215752.93431.qmail@web14901.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I have a really cheap one from Home Depot. I was skeptical at first, but by golly, they work! I can't imagine having a container garden without one! Impartial Third Party Copper Bittner Master Gardener Chandler, Maricopa County -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of jack blake Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2002 2:58 PM To: Renea Ford Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Water meter Any will work. Home depot carries 2. One is just a water meter and the other reads water,lite,andPH. --- Renea Ford wrote: > To Jack and others: I would really like to purchase > a moisture meter but am confused with all the > different types of moisture meters out there. Any > recommendation as to the type? > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/ _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From s2@arcworldwide.com Wed Apr 10 19:27:53 2002 From: s2@arcworldwide.com (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 12:27:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] salvia clevelandii References: Message-ID: <3CB49239.4716DEB4@arcworldwide.com> Thanks, Copper. It seems the "more outward than upward" growth pattern is normal. Mine has thrived in full hot afternoon sun against a west-facing, reflected heat wall... (west of Tucson) and it was one of only a few shrubs that didn't get any damage at all during the extra-cold winter. It tumbles over my sidewalk and has proven a great aromatic welcome up our walk/steps. I think I'll just let it go wild. You're right, the hummers love it as much as I do. And the rabbits don't, which gives it an A+ in my book ! -- Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. Vice President, Communications & Technology ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org ===================================================== "I became convinced we are here for each other." -- R. Buckminster Fuller From eavance@netzero.net Wed Apr 10 23:35:55 2002 From: eavance@netzero.net (eavance@netzero.net) Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 16:35:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204102335.g3ANZt928868@Ag.arizona.edu> I bought a small sego palm and have it in a pot on the south side of the house. Is the morning sun bad for it? It looks like it is turning brown. Is it getting too much sun? Does it have to have complete shade? Also how much water should it get? From watsontl@mindspring.com Thu Apr 11 01:55:41 2002 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 18:55:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] salvia clevelandii References: <200204100015.g3A0Fg903692@Ag.arizona.edu> <004b01c1e033$52990b00$7561b83f@oemcomputer> <006a01c1e0a2$b7a74100$6e39bbd0@oemcomputer> <3CB45CEA.E273780C@arcworldwide.com> Message-ID: <001d01c1e0fb$fd65b9c0$8954b83f@oemcomputer> What you describe looks like every S. clevelandii I've ever seen. Sounds to me like it's just doin' what comes natural. The Sunset Western Garden Book mentions a variety called "Winnifred Gilman" that grows closer to the expectations you express. If you thought you were buying one of those, it was mislabeled. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sherryl Stalinski" To: Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2002 8:40 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] salvia clevelandii > I planted a 5 gal salvia clevelandii last spring in front of my porch. > It gets watered deeply when it rains since it gets roof run off from the > porch. I just give it a squirt with the hose when its dry as it has been > (maybe once every couple weeks). > > My question is its growth habit. I was expecting a nice shrub, and it is > beautiful and smells soooooo goood, except that it's now about 6-7 feet > in dia. and about 2' high, instead of the 4x4, more upright shrub I was > expecting. It grew so densely I pruned off about 1/3 of the lower > branches that seemed to be weighing the plant down. It just filled back > in, although bounced up just a bit. The thing is growing like crazy > right now. > > Is it too late now to try to do something to make it a bit more upright > or will the young outer branches eventually decide to go up? (it's just > now starting to bloom for the season). > -- > Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. > Vice President, Communications & Technology > ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com > Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 > > Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org > ===================================================== > "I became convinced we are here for each other." > -- R. Buckminster Fuller > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From watsontl@mindspring.com Thu Apr 11 02:02:43 2002 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 19:02:43 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] A question about fungus References: <002801c1e0af$057d9760$f3f00344@ph.cox.net> Message-ID: <003801c1e0fc$f8aaad40$8954b83f@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0035_01C1E0C2.4B60D900 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Certainly sounds like fungus. If the stuff that emerges starts out = sort of brown and then gets darker, and breaks up easily to a powdery = consistency, you might be dealing with the dreaded Texas Root Rot. All = the "cures" I've heard about involve liberal applications of soil = sulfur, but before you do anything I'd suggest having an expert come out = and diagnose the problem for sure. Tom ----- Original Message -----=20 From: ncornell3=20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2002 9:44 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] A question about fungus Threes year ago I had an ancient, rotting navel orange tree removed = from the north side of my house. I planted a variegated lemon tree in = its place. The lemon tree did very nicely for about a year and then it = suddenly died. Last year I noticed a few pieces of dark fungus emerging = in the area where these trees had been. I dug them out. Now they are = back and they seem to be more widely spread. What do you suppose they = are? How do I get rid of them? Could they be dangerous to my dogs? = The soil is rather damp in that area most of the time because we get = flood irrigation and the area is fairly well shaded. =20 Thanks for your help! Nikki ------=_NextPart_000_0035_01C1E0C2.4B60D900 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Certainly sounds like fungus. If the = stuff that=20 emerges starts out sort of brown and then gets darker, and breaks up = easily to a=20 powdery consistency, you might be dealing with the dreaded Texas Root=20 Rot. All the "cures" I've heard about involve liberal = applications=20 of soil sulfur, but before you do anything I'd suggest having an expert = come out=20 and diagnose the problem for sure.

Tom

----- Original Message -----

From:=20 ncornell3=20

To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu =

Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2002 = 9:44=20 AM

Subject: [Arid_gardener] A = question about=20 fungus

Threes year ago I had an = ancient, rotting=20 navel orange tree removed from the north side of my = house. I=20 planted a variegated lemon tree in its place. The lemon tree did = very=20 nicely for about a year and then it suddenly died. Last year I = noticed a=20 few pieces of dark fungus emerging in the area where these trees had=20 been. I dug them out. Now they are back and they seem to = be more=20 widely spread. What do you suppose they are? How do I get = rid of=20 them? Could they be dangerous to my dogs? The soil is = rather damp=20 in that area most of the time because we get flood irrigation and the = area is=20 fairly well shaded.

Thanks for your help!

Nikki

------=_NextPart_000_0035_01C1E0C2.4B60D900-- From hrtofslvr4u@aol.com Thu Apr 11 02:56:23 2002 From: hrtofslvr4u@aol.com (hrtofslvr4u@aol.com) Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 19:56:23 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204110256.g3B2uN909677@Ag.arizona.edu> i have a small citrus tree just starting to grow, it has purple leaves but something is eating them. What could it be and what can i do to prevent this from happening. I was so excited that it had new leaves now i see this happening. HELP!!! From lazcow@yahoo.com Thu Apr 11 04:51:25 2002 From: lazcow@yahoo.com (lori zimmerman) Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 21:51:25 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Helianthus maximiliani Message-ID: <20020411045125.73437.qmail@web14803.mail.yahoo.com> Help! I have tried for 2 years to start maximilian sunflowers (Helianthus maximiliani) from seed, but have not had one seed germinate that I know of. Does any one have experience with this flower. I have directly sown the seeds in the ground and kept them moist for weeks. By the way, what does the seedling look like? __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/ From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Apr 11 13:01:03 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 13:01:03 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Helianthus maximiliani Message-ID: >From: lori zimmerman >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Helianthus maximiliani >Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 21:51:25 -0700 (PDT) > >Help! I have tried for 2 years to start maximilian >sunflowers (Helianthus maximiliani) from seed, but >have not had one seed germinate that I know of. Does >any one have experience with this flower. I have >directly sown the seeds in the ground and kept them >moist for weeks. By the way, what does the seedling >look like? > >__________________________________________________ >Do You Yahoo!? >Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax >http://taxes.yahoo.com/ >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener We have grown this sunflower in our Demonstration Gardens in Tucson, Pima County Cooperative Extension. A few questions-- What is the source of your seed? Are you buying seed packets or harvesting seed? What time of year do you plant? Sunflowers prefer warm temperatures, so cold soil or a frost can stop germination. Do you have animals in the area where you plant? Perhaps the seedlings are being nibbled off as soon as they appear. Linda Drew Master Gardener _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Apr 11 13:07:37 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 13:07:37 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus, leaves being eaten Message-ID: I think the most likely things eating your leaves are caterpillars or grasshoppers. Look carefully on the leaves for caterpillars or their droppings. You can usually hand-pick caterpillars when you see them. Grasshoppers are transient, so if you identify grasshoppers, remove any you see and net the tree with fine mesh. If you don't see caterpillars or grasshoppers, then something else is at work. If you can, take samples of the chewed leaves to your local Cooperative Extension office for help. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: hrtofslvr4u@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 19:56:23 -0700 (MST) > >i have a small citrus tree just starting to grow, it has purple leaves but >something is eating them. What could it be and what can i do to prevent >this from happening. I was so excited that it had new leaves now i see >this happening. HELP!!! > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From gardenguru" Message-ID: <008701c1e160$0f5c45e0$835794ce@ibm22761658747> Cats Claw can quickly cover your wall but does not need a trellis to do so. It will attach itself to your wall using its small " claws ". Plant 1 gal plants about a foot away from your wall and 3 feet apart, removing the stakes.. Spread the vines close to the bottom of the wall and water with 1 gal of water every 3 days for the first two weeks. You can then water them about every 5 days. After the vines begins up the wall and each branch is about 8 inches longs, pinch off the tip of each one. This will cause the plant to double its growth. Do this again after each new vine is again 6 to 8 inches long and continue pinching the tops. I was able to cover a 30 ft wall in less than a year by doubling it growth. It is also called Yellow Trumphet Vine at some nurseries. Hope this helps GG ----- Original Message ----- From: "jack blake" To: Cc: Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2002 3:21 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [Arid_gardener] > A south facing wall gets a lot of HOT summer heat.I > reccomenda trellis about 6-8 inches from the wall and > a vine like cats claw should work. > > > --- BgbgL@aol.com wrote: > > Hello. We are trying to cover a huge side wall in > > our back yard (north wall with southern exposure... > > full sun). We are trying to xeriscape as much as > > possible and we feel we are doing ok. But we wish > > to find a good evergreen vine if we can. > > > > The main reasons being to cover the wall, to keep > > the wall cooler and and to create a more oasis area > > since this is close to the house. We would like > > evergreen if possible and perhaps some flowers > > > > We have tnought about two choices rosa banksiae > > lutea which would be appropriate. > > > > We have also fallen in love with bignonia > > capreolata. Yes...apologies for it not being a > > southwest plant but it has a lot of things going for > > it. More constant flowering, shoots not coming up > > all over like a trumpet creeper (so we have been > > told) almost always evergreen, colorful flowers and > > some purple color shades in the fall/winter. > > > > Does anyone have any thoughts on this plant? pros > > and cons are appreciated. It would be in a shelterd > > yard yet have enough air circulation and on an > > irrigation drip. One local nursery in Tucson loves > > it and many people do on line. However two > > landscapers are hesistant because they say they do > > not know enough about it > > Is it a good choice? > > > > Thank you > > Barbara > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax > http://taxes.yahoo.com/ > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From Jonathan Kandell" Message-ID: <009401c1e16a$5497c4e0$6c39bbd0@oemcomputer> You might try starting them in flats/trays then transplanting. I have the same trouble when planting in the ground. Also, birds love sunflower seeds, so if you plant outside use netting. The seedlings look like this http://images.google.com/images?q=sunflower+seedling&hl=en jk ----- Original Message ----- From: "lori zimmerman" To: Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2002 9:51 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Helianthus maximiliani > Help! I have tried for 2 years to start maximilian > sunflowers (Helianthus maximiliani) from seed, but > have not had one seed germinate that I know of. Does > any one have experience with this flower. I have > directly sown the seeds in the ground and kept them > moist for weeks. By the way, what does the seedling > look like? > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax > http://taxes.yahoo.com/ > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From Mandyhoney@aol.com Thu Apr 11 18:09:57 2002 From: Mandyhoney@aol.com (Mandyhoney@aol.com) Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 11:09:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204111809.g3BI9v916274@Ag.arizona.edu> I want blackberries/dewberries whatever! Our landscaper told us he has something that sounds like la-la berries-he got the plants from a nursery in Calif. I've called him and gotten no response. He said they do well-he lives in Glendale-we're in Gilbert at Allen Ranch.....any help would really be appreciated. Too, please tell the powers that be we really enjoyed the Real Gardens tour...very helpful! From s2@arcworldwide.com Thu Apr 11 18:35:16 2002 From: s2@arcworldwide.com (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 11:35:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Drip system/Graywater References: <20020411045125.73437.qmail@web14803.mail.yahoo.com> <009401c1e16a$5497c4e0$6c39bbd0@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <3CB5D764.82835E5C@arcworldwide.com> I know one of you MGs has a lot of experience/knowledge of drip systems... here's my question: We want to convert our gray water (tubs, showers) and tie them into a drip system that will go to the new trees we're planting. Already strategized a shut off/bypass so that we're not over-watering and the bypass on "off" days can go off into the wash (then it can water our sad-looking wild creosote to perk them up a bit). The problem is the new trees/shrubs will be across the driveway. So my husband dug a 16" trench and buried a pvc pipe to run the drip through under the driveway. Now we're wondering how tub/shower water, even though it is coming from 3' above grade, will get through that "low spot" without any pressure? Is that going to work for us, or one day will our tub just not drain because the water won't want to go back up past the lowered stretch of tubing? (The driveway is about 30' from the drains we'll be converting) -- Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. Vice President, Communications & Technology ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org ===================================================== "I became convinced we are here for each other." -- R. Buckminster Fuller From Chris_Nichols@Dell.com Thu Apr 11 18:34:51 2002 From: Chris_Nichols@Dell.com (Chris_Nichols@Dell.com) Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 13:34:51 -0500 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <558DC7C51772B3489A342EC141F973A51F108D@AUSXMPS306.aus.amer.dell.com> RASPBERRY, BA-BA BERRY Extra large berries, up to 1" long. Fine flavor. Excellent for all uses. Suitable for growing in the warmest climates of the U.S. Does well in hot valley and mild winter areas. Bears a large crop in June and a small crop in the fall. Hardy to 0 degrees F. $4.95 (#B82) http://www.baylaurelnursery.com/Catalog/berries/ > -----Original Message----- > From: Mandyhoney@aol.com [mailto:Mandyhoney@aol.com] > Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2002 1:10 PM > To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > > I want blackberries/dewberries whatever! Our landscaper told > us he has something that sounds like la-la berries-he got the > plants from a nursery in Calif. I've called him and gotten > no response. He said they do well-he lives in Glendale-we're > in Gilbert at Allen Ranch.....any help would really be > appreciated. Too, please tell the powers that be we really > enjoyed the Real Gardens tour...very helpful! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From annd@email.arizona.edu Thu Apr 11 21:31:24 2002 From: annd@email.arizona.edu (annd@email.arizona.edu) Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 14:31:24 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204112131.g3BLVO920862@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like to take several branches from my parents ocotillo and plant them in my own yard. I've heard you can do this with ocotillo but how do I do it properly? From cbi64i@cox.net Fri Apr 12 01:11:28 2002 From: cbi64i@cox.net (cbi64i@cox.net) Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 18:11:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204120111.g3C1BS919796@Ag.arizona.edu> i am concerned about the going from my winter lawn (rye) to my summer bermuda grass. what are the steps i have to follow to insure a smooth transition to my summer lawn thanx From jamienettles@bigfoot.com Fri Apr 12 04:16:54 2002 From: jamienettles@bigfoot.com (Jamie Nettles) Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 21:16:54 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: From clydic@theriver.com Fri Apr 12 04:16:08 2002 From: clydic@theriver.com (Carol Lydic) Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 21:16:08 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Drip system/Graywater In-Reply-To: <3CB5D764.82835E5C@arcworldwide.com> Message-ID: Sherryl: You are fortunate to be in Tucson where the City is proactive about gray water. Contact Val Little at the Water Resources Research Center. They have an active gray watr program and can surely help with your project. She spoke at the Master Gardener conference in Prescott last fall--a very insightful talk and knowledgeable person on gray water! Carol LYdic Gila Co Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Sherryl Stalinski Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2002 11:35 AM To: Arid Gardener Listserv Subject: [Arid_gardener] Drip system/Graywater I know one of you MGs has a lot of experience/knowledge of drip systems... here's my question: We want to convert our gray water (tubs, showers) and tie them into a drip system that will go to the new trees we're planting. Already strategized a shut off/bypass so that we're not over-watering and the bypass on "off" days can go off into the wash (then it can water our sad-looking wild creosote to perk them up a bit). The problem is the new trees/shrubs will be across the driveway. So my husband dug a 16" trench and buried a pvc pipe to run the drip through under the driveway. Now we're wondering how tub/shower water, even though it is coming from 3' above grade, will get through that "low spot" without any pressure? Is that going to work for us, or one day will our tub just not drain because the water won't want to go back up past the lowered stretch of tubing? (The driveway is about 30' from the drains we'll be converting) -- Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. Vice President, Communications & Technology ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org ===================================================== "I became convinced we are here for each other." -- R. Buckminster Fuller _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From jamienettles@bigfoot.com Fri Apr 12 04:26:49 2002 From: jamienettles@bigfoot.com (Jamie Nettles) Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 21:26:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Watering Ocotillo Message-ID: I have heard that you should water an Ocotillo by spraying the canes. I have also heard that you can kill an Ocotillo by over watering it. I have heard but also know from personal experience that Ocotillo respond to a rain with green leaves which they drop after a few weeks of dryness. I have a drip irrigation system on an automatic timer which cannot be set to water any less frequently than every 15 days. I have 7 very nice Ocotillo that I am very happy with and don't want to see harmed. Can I use the drip irrigation system to water them? Will they be happy with this in the long run? Is it OK to keep them green throughout the summer will that harm them? If I use the drip system should I water them heavy every 15 days? Thanks From parts@balar.com Fri Apr 12 14:54:43 2002 From: parts@balar.com (parts@balar.com) Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 07:54:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204121454.g3CEsh907720@Ag.arizona.edu> GOOD MORNING, I AM LOOKING FOR A METHOD (PESTICIDE) TO CONTROL ROOT (GROUND) MEALYBUGS. I GROW CACTI IN A HOOPHOUSE, ALL ARE IN CONTAINERS. PLEASE LET ME KNOW AS SOON AS POSSIBLE. THANK YOU From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Apr 12 15:41:38 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 11:41:38 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rye grass to bermuda conversion Message-ID: --part1_fb.24886aaf.29e85a32_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit We are approaching the time of year when steps need to be taken to help kill the overseeded rye grass and help the bermuda get a start, ( when the night time temperatures are consistantly over 60 degrees ).Those steps are lowering the cutting height of the rye and fertilizing with a fertilizer that contains nitrogen as well as phosphorus. The Master Gardener Manual chapter on Turf has a section on Spring Transition to Bermuda available at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_fb.24886aaf.29e85a32_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
We are approaching the time of year when steps need to be taken to help kill the overseeded rye grass and help the bermuda get a start, ( when the night time temperatures are consistantly over 60 degrees ).Those steps are lowering the cutting height of the rye and fertilizing with a fertilizer that contains nitrogen as well as phosphorus.
The Master Gardener Manual chapter on Turf has a section on Spring Transition to Bermuda available at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_fb.24886aaf.29e85a32_boundary-- From jbegeman@Ag.arizona.edu Fri Apr 12 16:10:22 2002 From: jbegeman@Ag.arizona.edu (John Begeman) Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 09:10:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Garden Tour - This Saturday, April 13th. Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20020412090015.00ab7340@ag.arizona.edu> The Pima County Master Gardeners are conducting their 5th Annual Master Gardener Home Garden Tour, this Saturday, April 13th, from 9 - 3 in Tucson. Five beautiful Master Gardener Home Gardens are featured on the tour as well as the demonstration gardens at Pima County Cooperative Extension. Tickets are $5.00 per person and may be purchased at the Pima County Cooperative Extension, 4210 N. Campbell Avenue (look for the banner) from 8:30 to 4:30 today, or on Saturday beginning at 9:00 a.m. For more information phone 626-5161. John P. Begeman, M.S. Urban Horticulture Agent Pima County Cooperative Extension Phone: (520) 626-5161 Fax: (520) 626-5849 jbegeman@ag.arizona.edu From copper@bargainsail.com Fri Apr 12 16:30:06 2002 From: copper@bargainsail.com (Copper Bittner) Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 09:30:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200204102335.g3ANZt928868@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: I don't remember this being answered, but Sago Palms really don't like the sun...how much and how intense in the morning sun? Can you put it behind a taller plant? How much are you watering it? Where do you live? Copper Bittner Master Gardener Chandler, AZ, Maricopa County -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of eavance@netzero.net Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2002 4:36 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I bought a small sego palm and have it in a pot on the south side of the house. Is the morning sun bad for it? It looks like it is turning brown. Is it getting too much sun? Does it have to have complete shade? Also how much water should it get? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Seedfiendcc@aol.com Fri Apr 12 18:20:26 2002 From: Seedfiendcc@aol.com (Seedfiendcc@aol.com) Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 14:20:26 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Sago palm Message-ID: <3a.250e3f5e.29e87f6a@aol.com> --part1_3a.250e3f5e.29e87f6a_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit A southern exposure for a Sago Palm is probably too intense. ASU has a large Sago in front of the Anthropology building. In that location it gets a fair amount of unobstructed morning sun. However, if a Sago is accustomed to greenhouse living-- while it is being grown--a quick move to any direct sun may be too much for it. Because the Sago in question is in a container, a move to a less intense exposure is easy. Try to find a northern exposure or filtered light location (like under a desert tree) to allow for recuperation of this probably sunburned plant. I have an eight year-old Sago that has done well in a porous soil-mix container, under a mesquite tree, with morning sun exposure. CCarlson Tempe, Maricopa County --part1_3a.250e3f5e.29e87f6a_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit A southern exposure for a Sago Palm is probably too intense.

ASU has a large Sago in front of the Anthropology building. In that location it gets a fair amount of unobstructed morning sun. However, if a Sago is accustomed to greenhouse living-- while it is being grown--a quick move to any direct sun may be too much for it.

Because the Sago in question is in a container, a move to a less intense exposure is easy. Try to find a northern exposure or filtered light location (like under a desert tree) to allow for recuperation of this probably sunburned plant.

I have an eight year-old Sago that has done well in a porous soil-mix container, under a mesquite tree, with morning sun exposure.

CCarlson
Tempe, Maricopa County

--part1_3a.250e3f5e.29e87f6a_boundary-- From suzz624@aol.com Fri Apr 12 19:11:04 2002 From: suzz624@aol.com (suzz624@aol.com) Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 12:11:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204121911.g3CJB4923775@Ag.arizona.edu> We have a beautiful mature lemon tree. It produces wonderful lemons but this year we have noticed that the bark is peeling off the trunk. We also have other mature citrus that seem to be fine. Can you explain the problem to us? Thank you, Joyce Ardalan From erex@qwest.net Fri Apr 12 20:20:47 2002 From: erex@qwest.net (erex@qwest.net) Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 13:20:47 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204122020.g3CKKl914199@Ag.arizona.edu> We have four Brazilian Pepper trees, 3 years old in our HOA common area. What would cause all of these do die within a couple of weeks. Our landscapers have told us that they are planted to deep in the ground and that is why they died. It doesn't make sense that they would all die at the same time if this was the case, they are also different sizes. Thank you From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Fri Apr 12 22:08:44 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 15:08:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: contact In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20020412220844.37869.qmail@web14902.mail.yahoo.com> Hi John, Good to hear from you and yes, I am still here.Its always good to wake up above the grass instead of below it. --- John Chapman wrote: > Hi Jack, > This is an email test to see if you are really > there. John Chapman > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/ From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Fri Apr 12 22:17:06 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 15:17:06 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question 3 dead trees In-Reply-To: <002901c1e020$5ce87cc0$c1510344@ph.cox.net> Message-ID: <20020412221706.23645.qmail@web14906.mail.yahoo.com> Paige, Thats really not a lot of water. You probably use at least that much in 10-14 days just in showers. (if not you must live alone.) Just some humor. Save the money on the test kit and a atificial tree is the only one that will take total neglect. Even desert trees and plants will need some care if they are to be healthy. --- Paige wrote: > The last two trees didn't last 6 months, more like > 6-8 weeks. The first one > lasted a year or so. Obviously I don't have enough > emitters but I can > remedy that. It sounds like a lot of water (60-80 > gallons each 10-14 days. > I will try anything though. > Would a test kit from the nursery help in > determining any soil problems? > Is there any kind of tree you recommend that might > withstand some neglect or > mistakes? Thanks again. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: jack blake > To: Paige > Cc: > Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2002 3:36 PM > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question 3 dead trees > > > > The trees are in the ground 6 months or more.They > > should be getting watered with 6-8 2gallon per > hour > > emitters every 10-14 days as we go into summer and > be > > watred for at least 5-7 hours as you want the > water > > to get down 3 feet where the roots are. > > PS the emitters should be at the dripline and not > the > > trunk. > > > > > > --- Paige wrote: > > > I'm not a very knowledgeable gardner but I will > give > > > you my best memory of > > > each tree. The area of planting is in my back > yard > > > which on the north side > > > of my house. Plenty of sun. The first was a > "sisso" > > > or something like > > > that, the second was an Australian willow of > which I > > > bought two. The other > > > one I planted 20 feet away is doing great, go > > > figure. The third was a ficus > > > type I think but I'm not too sure about that > one. > > > As for the drippers there > > > are two with large capacity drippers which were > set > > > by the landscapers (Nov > > > 99) to 30 min once weekly as I recall. Later the > > > nursery told me to reset > > > for summer time at 30 min twice weekly. > > > I must admit, after the first tree died and I > had > > > dug it out, the ground was > > > obviously too wet. So I checked the system for > > > leaks, etc. and found my > > > back door neighbor was watering his plants much > more > > > than he needed to. That > > > may have affected my yard as we live in a small > > > patio type community with > > > only feet from my tree to the fence line. He > since > > > has stopped that and the > > > ground appears to have been draining adequately > now. > > > I was very careful to > > > watch the watering of this last tree and I know > it > > > was not overwatered. > > > Maybe underwatered? I have three other ficus > type > > > trees around my pond and > > > they are doing great with the same watering > > > system/time. > > > Thank you for responding. I do truly appreciate > any > > > help you can give. My > > > yard is really important to me and I just hate > it > > > when I can't get things > > > growing. > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: jack blake > > > To: > > > Cc: > > > Sent: Friday, March 29, 2002 7:43 PM > > > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question 3 dead > trees > > > > > > > > > > Lost three trees, now the third degree.What > kind > > > of > > > > trees? where were they planted?-east side,west > > > side?? > > > > How long do you run your drip system?How often > do > > > you > > > > run it? How many drippers are there to the > tree? > > > This > > > > info would sure help. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > --- epaigep@cox.net wrote: > > > > > I have lost 3 trees in the last two years > (all > > > > > planted in the same spot). The yard was > > > > > professionally landscaped with dripper > > > irrigation > > > > > etc. I replanted the second and third trees > > > myself. > > > > > All different varieties. They all turned > yellow > > > and > > > > > slowly lost their leaves until they died > over a > > > > > matter of weeks. > > > > > I am in a new(two year old development) but > I've > > > dug > > > > > out the old soil and replaced it twice. Any > > > ideas on > > > > > what else I can do? > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > > > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > > > > > > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > > > > > > > > > __________________________________________________ > > > > Do You Yahoo!? > > > > Yahoo! Greetings - send holiday greetings for > > > Easter, Passover > > > > http://greetings.yahoo.com/ > > > > > > > > > > > > > __________________________________________________ > > Do You Yahoo!? > > Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax > > http://taxes.yahoo.com/ > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/ From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Fri Apr 12 22:19:23 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 15:19:23 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question peaches and birds In-Reply-To: <200204100015.g3A0Fg903692@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20020412221923.79579.qmail@web14910.mail.yahoo.com> Bird netting is available at most garden centers. I use it and have never had a problem. --- webmaster@amwest-travel.com wrote: > I have a terrific peach tree. Does anyone > have a suggestion for keeping the birds > from eating the ripe or almost ripe peaches? > I won't use rose netting because it traps > lizards which are of great value to the > rest of my garden. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/ From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Fri Apr 12 22:41:38 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 15:41:38 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Drip system/Graywater In-Reply-To: <3CB5D764.82835E5C@arcworldwide.com> Message-ID: <20020412224138.615.qmail@web14904.mail.yahoo.com> Sherryl, From what I read,if I'm correct,you have a grey water line hooked into your regular irrigation line. If this is bown line of your vavle,simply turning on the valve an mixing fresh and gray water and using the normal water pressure in your water line should sove the problem. Water will always sit in the low section of pipe but I can't see how it would back up into your tub. --- Sherryl Stalinski wrote: > I know one of you MGs has a lot of > experience/knowledge of drip > systems... here's my question: > We want to convert our gray water (tubs, showers) > and tie them into a > drip system that will go to the new trees we're > planting. Already > strategized a shut off/bypass so that we're not > over-watering and the > bypass on "off" days can go off into the wash (then > it can water our > sad-looking wild creosote to perk them up a bit). > > The problem is the new trees/shrubs will be across > the driveway. So my > husband dug a 16" trench and buried a pvc pipe to > run the drip through > under the driveway. Now we're wondering how > tub/shower water, even > though it is coming from 3' above grade, will get > through that "low > spot" without any pressure? Is that going to work > for us, or one day > will our tub just not drain because the water won't > want to go back up > past the lowered stretch of tubing? (The driveway is > about 30' from the > drains we'll be converting) > > -- > Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. > Vice President, Communications & Technology > ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com > Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at > AOL-IM: AuroraS2 > > Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org > ===================================================== > "I became convinced we are here for each other." > -- R. Buckminster > Fuller > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/ From s2@arcworldwide.com Fri Apr 12 23:18:16 2002 From: s2@arcworldwide.com (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 16:18:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] ocotillos References: <200204112131.g3BLVO920862@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3CB76B38.E7BB901C@arcworldwide.com> annd@email.arizona.edu wrote: > > I would like to take several branches from my parents ocotillo and plant them in my own yard. I've heard you can do this with ocotillo but how do I do it properly? You can "plant" branches from an ocotillo and they will root, but they won't develop additional canes. Usually, about half, sometimes a bit more will take root (have you ever seen an ocotillo fence?). Just stick the canes into sandy, rocky dirt. With rooted, full-plant ocotillos (which are purchased bare-root), it is common for them to take 1-2 years to adapt to being transplanted before they "green up" again, I don't know how long it takes for canes to root. These are slow-growers, also. You may consider just buying some bare-root plants so you can enjoy them. I had checked into seedlings (8-10") but didn't feel like waiting 10 years for them to get 4-5' tall! -- Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. Vice President, Communications & Technology ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org ===================================================== "I became convinced we are here for each other." -- R. Buckminster Fuller From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Apr 12 23:10:35 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 16:10:35 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Saving 'Gnatty' Potting Soil Message-ID: <3CB7696B.3E90C0FC@qwest.net> I keep a 3 cu ft bag of potting soil in a closed galvanized trash can. Notwithstanding, this bag [about 1.5 cu ft remains] now appears to be full of fungus gnats. It's one thing to do a soil drench for small containers [which I'll probably have to do on the plants I've most recently potted up] but I'm wondering if there is any way to salvage this new soil for later use. There's simply too much to bake in the oven! Any ideas? Can I simply toss this on top of some vacant bed to 'bake' itself clean and later incorporate it in the soil there as conditioner? Or do I simply throw it all out? Thanks for any and all thoughts or personal experiences. Linda Guy, MG From s2@arcworldwide.com Fri Apr 12 23:29:04 2002 From: s2@arcworldwide.com (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 16:29:04 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Saving 'Gnatty' Potting Soil References: <3CB7696B.3E90C0FC@qwest.net> Message-ID: <3CB76DC0.415959D2@arcworldwide.com> Linda, No help from me! It's just nice to see even the MG's asking for advice once in a while . -- Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. Vice President, Communications & Technology ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org ===================================================== "I became convinced we are here for each other." -- R. Buckminster Fuller From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Apr 12 23:56:14 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 16:56:14 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Saving 'Gnatty' Potting Soil References: <3CB7696B.3E90C0FC@qwest.net> <3CB76DC0.415959D2@arcworldwide.com> Message-ID: <3CB7741E.6F9C0BE@qwest.net> Golly Sherryl, as a live-long learner, the only thing I'm absolutely certain of is 'the more I learn, the less I realize I know!' Sherryl Stalinski wrote: > Linda, > No help from me! It's just nice to see even the MG's asking for advice > once in a while . > -- > Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. > Vice President, Communications & Technology > ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com > Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 > > Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org > ===================================================== > "I became convinced we are here for each other." > -- R. Buckminster Fuller > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Apr 12 23:59:44 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 16:59:44 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Saving 'Gnatty' Potting Soil References: Message-ID: <3CB774F0.43674E09@qwest.net> --------------52E8203EC03107C5F6397062 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Fungus gnats larva live in the soil and are treated with water incorporating larvicide or just diluted bleach. Sometimes I've overdone the bleach [or the plant had been gnawed for so long that it was already gone]. Anyway, it doesn't kill the gnats that you see, but the larva. You might need several applications to get the hatched eggs too. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/gnats.htm Linda Guy, MG KLH718@aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 4/12/02 4:10:20 PM US Mountain Standard Time, > lindaguy@qwest.net writes: > > > >> It's one thing to do a soil drench for small >> containers [which I'll probably have to do on the plants I've most >> recently potted up] > > I have a potted plant that is "gnatty". What is a soil drench? > > thanks, > Karen Crawford --------------52E8203EC03107C5F6397062 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Fungus gnats larva live in the soil and are treated with water incorporating larvicide or just diluted bleach. Sometimes I've overdone the bleach [or the plant had been gnawed for so long that it was already gone]. Anyway, it doesn't kill the gnats that you see, but the larva. You might need several applications to get the hatched eggs too.
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/gnats.htm

Linda Guy, MG

KLH718@aol.com wrote:

In a message dated 4/12/02 4:10:20 PM US Mountain Standard Time, lindaguy@qwest.net writes:

It's one thing to do a soil drench for small
containers [which I'll probably have to do on the plants I've most
recently potted up]

I have a potted plant that is "gnatty". What is a soil drench?
thanks,
Karen Crawford

--------------52E8203EC03107C5F6397062-- From watsontl@mindspring.com Sat Apr 13 01:20:58 2002 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 18:20:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Saving 'Gnatty' Potting Soil References: <3CB7696B.3E90C0FC@qwest.net> Message-ID: <003001c1e289$79dfedc0$fe52b83f@oemcomputer> Our climate (and the time of year) suggests a solution. Put the soil in plastic bags (clear would be best, but black would do) and leave it in the sun for a few days. You might need to stir it around to make sure everything is eveny heated. I've done this to eliminate fungus that sometimes infests soil I have stored, and the soil works just fine after the fact. No promises it'll work for this, but it beats drenching with chemicals or just throwing the soil away. Tom Watson ----- Original Message ----- From: "Linda Guy" To: "Arid_gardener" Sent: Friday, April 12, 2002 4:10 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Saving 'Gnatty' Potting Soil > I keep a 3 cu ft bag of potting soil in a closed galvanized trash can. > Notwithstanding, this bag [about 1.5 cu ft remains] now appears to be > full of fungus gnats. It's one thing to do a soil drench for small > containers [which I'll probably have to do on the plants I've most > recently potted up] but I'm wondering if there is any way to salvage > this new soil for later use. There's simply too much to bake in the > oven! > > Any ideas? Can I simply toss this on top of some vacant bed to 'bake' > itself clean and later incorporate it in the soil there as conditioner? > Or do I simply throw it all out? > > Thanks for any and all thoughts or personal experiences. > > Linda Guy, MG > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From dharleyboy@cs.com Sat Apr 13 20:34:56 2002 From: dharleyboy@cs.com (dharleyboy@cs.com) Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 13:34:56 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204132034.g3DKYu907930@Ag.arizona.edu> we have removed a large tree which was too close to our block fence. how can we kill the roots that we are unable to remove? From PLALLEN@COX.NET Sat Apr 13 22:00:13 2002 From: PLALLEN@COX.NET (PLALLEN@COX.NET) Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 15:00:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204132200.g3DM0D915385@Ag.arizona.edu> I am interested in putting in a garden in the Christopher Creek area. This is a part time residence and we turn off the water while we are gone. I would like to find information on how to set up a barrel or drum system that would allow the catching of rain water and could be supplimented with a hose when rain is scarce. I need information on what type of timer, if any, and also tubing/drip/irrigation system should be used with this. The garden will start out small since I want this to be successful and can be expanded from there. Thank you for your information. From hps@qwest.net Sun Apr 14 01:20:50 2002 From: hps@qwest.net (patrick small) Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 18:20:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] please sign me up Message-ID: <001001c1e352$9dd6ad80$6e29fea9@s0023693025> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C1E317.F0B792C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I am trying to sign up a good friend of mine. His E-mail address is in = the cc: line. Thanks Pat Small ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C1E317.F0B792C0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I am trying to sign up a good friend of = mine. His=20 E-mail address is in the cc: line. Thanks Pat = Small

------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C1E317.F0B792C0-- From jdkdtwo@aol.com Sun Apr 14 00:29:52 2002 From: jdkdtwo@aol.com (jdkdtwo@aol.com) Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 17:29:52 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204140029.g3E0Tq928447@Ag.arizona.edu> I have 4 different varities of grapes in my yard. What would be the best fertilizer ratio for optimum growth and to put on fruit? When would be the best time of the year to apply? Thank you. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Apr 14 00:34:09 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 20:34:09 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lemon Tree bark peeling Message-ID: <1ad.a845de.29ea2881@aol.com> --part1_1ad.a845de.29ea2881_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Joyce, Have you pruned the lemon tree to where the peeled area is exposed to the sun particularly the afternoon sun? If so the peeling bark is from sunburn and there is not much that can be done except to either wrap the exposed area or paint it white to prevent further sunburning. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_1ad.a845de.29ea2881_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Joyce,

Have you pruned the lemon tree to where the peeled area is exposed to the sun particularly the afternoon sun? If so the peeling bark is from sunburn and there is not much that can be done except to either wrap the exposed area or paint it white to prevent further sunburning.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_1ad.a845de.29ea2881_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Apr 14 00:34:08 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 20:34:08 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Brazilian Peppers, several have died Message-ID: <15b.c4cfa0c.29ea2880@aol.com> --part1_15b.c4cfa0c.29ea2880_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Brazilian Peppers are susceptable to Texas Root Rot as well as Verticillium Wilt. Both of these fungi can cause a very rapid death of a tree. Since verticillium wilt is active in the cool season and if the trees died just recently this would would be the suspect fungi. Since no symptoms were given there is no way that a diagnosis could be made. Planting too deep could be a contributing cause and especially if the soil does not drain well and or if the trees were overwatered. Another cause could be inadequate irrigation. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_15b.c4cfa0c.29ea2880_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Brazilian Peppers are susceptable to Texas Root Rot as well as Verticillium Wilt. Both of these fungi can cause a very rapid death of a tree. Since verticillium wilt is active in the cool season and if the trees died just recently this would would be the suspect fungi. Since no symptoms were given there is no way that a diagnosis could be made.
Planting too deep could be a contributing cause and especially if the soil does not drain well and or if the trees were overwatered.
Another cause could be inadequate irrigation.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist

--part1_15b.c4cfa0c.29ea2880_boundary-- From s.davidson@cox.net Sun Apr 14 03:31:39 2002 From: s.davidson@cox.net (s.davidson@cox.net) Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 20:31:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204140331.g3E3Vd915568@Ag.arizona.edu> Are triangle palms well adapted to this area? Had a bad experience with one a few years back but I might not have watered it correctly? Also have a few gophers which caused problems with a pygmy date palm and lilac vine. We replaced the lilac vine with wire mesh around the roots, and its doing fine. Would this be a good precaution if we plant more replacement palms. From MISMYSTERI@aol.com Sun Apr 14 16:54:36 2002 From: MISMYSTERI@aol.com (MISMYSTERI@aol.com) Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 12:54:36 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Vine Problems Message-ID: <10d.1097814c.29eb0e4c@aol.com> I bought a Mandilvilla vine at Home Depot in fall. It did beautifully, tons of constant blooms, and a lot of new growth. In the past week or two, it has taken a turn for the worst and is dying quickly. I have increased my waterings from one a week to every other day, and water slow and long. I gave it some superthrive, and mist it regularly. It is facing north, and the awning of my house provides it shade. What can I do to save this plant? Thanks. From James_Jennifer1@Hotmail.com Sun Apr 14 21:33:38 2002 From: James_Jennifer1@Hotmail.com (James_Jennifer1@Hotmail.com) Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 14:33:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204142133.g3ELXc908707@Ag.arizona.edu> I have 13 small desert bushes in my fron yard and I want to get rid of them. I do not like desert trees and bushes they're ugly, and I've been asking anyone and everyone what kind of shrubs can I plant in my yard that can withstand our hot weather. We do like the mexican bird of paradise, and I love lavender bushes but can't find any. Any suggestions? I know this may be a difficult question, but it's worth a shot. My husband likes those little shrubs that you see mostly aroung fast food places. They have very small leaves and they're round but the gardners square them off on the tops. What are they called? From James_Jennifer1@Hotmail.com Sun Apr 14 21:34:11 2002 From: James_Jennifer1@Hotmail.com (James_Jennifer1@Hotmail.com) Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 14:34:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204142134.g3ELYB908741@Ag.arizona.edu> I have 13 small desert bushes in my fron yard and I want to get rid of them. I do not like desert trees and bushes they're ugly, and I've been asking anyone and everyone what kind of shrubs can I plant in my yard that can withstand our hot weather. We do like the mexican bird of paradise, and I love lavender bushes but can't find any. Any suggestions? I know this may be a difficult question, but it's worth a shot. My husband likes those little shrubs that you see mostly aroung fast food places. They have very small leaves and they're round but the gardners square them off on the tops. What are they called? Jennifer Mendoza From James_Jennifer1@Hotmail.com Sun Apr 14 21:34:28 2002 From: James_Jennifer1@Hotmail.com (James_Jennifer1@Hotmail.com) Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 14:34:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204142134.g3ELYS908770@Ag.arizona.edu> I have 13 small desert bushes in my fron yard and I want to get rid of them. I do not like desert trees and bushes they're ugly, and I've been asking anyone and everyone what kind of shrubs can I plant in my yard that can withstand our hot weather. We do like the mexican bird of paradise, and I love lavender bushes but can't find any. Any suggestions? I know this may be a difficult question, but it's worth a shot. My husband likes those little shrubs that you see mostly aroung fast food places. They have very small leaves and they're round but the gardners square them off on the tops. What are they called? Jennifer Mendoza From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Sun Apr 14 22:01:24 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 15:01:24 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] removing tree roots In-Reply-To: <200204132034.g3DKYu907930@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20020414220124.50004.qmail@web14908.mail.yahoo.com> Normally burying whats left of the trunk and roots is all you need do. Enzimes and other soil critters will do the job of decomposition. --- dharleyboy@cs.com wrote: > we have removed a large tree which was too close to > our block fence. how can we kill the roots that we > are unable to remove? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/ From umiller@azdps.com Sun Apr 14 22:02:16 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 15:02:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lavender bushes In-Reply-To: <200204142134.g3ELYB908741@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Jennifer - I don't know what kind of shrub you're referring to, but I know a little about lavender. It grows very well here, but needs watering on a regular basis. Sometimes lavender is hard to find, but check with nurseries in your area and ask about them. I bought one lavender bush in a little 4" pot 2 years ago and I'm looking at a 3' wide bush outside my window with the blue spikes growing on it. I have English lavender and Canary Island lavender. Had Spanish lavender for a while, too, which did well. If you can't find it in the stores, you can order via mail from High Country Gardens in New Mexico http://www.highcountrygardens.com In fact, if you peruse their catalog, you may find a lot of plants that grow well here and also appeal to your taste. Some other plants that do well here are hibiscus and pomegranate - both green and colorful, but they need regular irrigating. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of James_Jennifer1@Hotmail.com Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2002 2:34 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have 13 small desert bushes in my fron yard and I want to get rid of them. I do not like desert trees and bushes they're ugly, and I've been asking anyone and everyone what kind of shrubs can I plant in my yard that can withstand our hot weather. We do like the mexican bird of paradise, and I love lavender bushes but can't find any. Any suggestions? I know this may be a difficult question, but it's worth a shot. My husband likes those little shrubs that you see mostly aroung fast food places. They have very small leaves and they're round but the gardners square them off on the tops. What are they called? Jennifer Mendoza _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From bandbhall@aol.com Sun Apr 14 22:20:46 2002 From: bandbhall@aol.com (bandbhall@aol.com) Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 15:20:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204142220.g3EMKk913417@Ag.arizona.edu> Our roses get drip water, 1 hour 3times a day, 3 days a week. Is that too much. I had gotten a few yellow leaves at the bottom of the plants and they seemed dry so we have upped the water as above, but now another plant has some yellow leaves? What do you think? Also one long cane on a Ledgend rose has a few raised snow white spots, all the leaves on that cane were wilted. I cut the cane off, but what was that? From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Sun Apr 14 22:22:07 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 15:22:07 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] don't like desert plants In-Reply-To: <200204142133.g3ELXc908707@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20020414222207.45098.qmail@web14913.mail.yahoo.com> I lived in Chicago and didn't like the wind and snow so I did the best thing. I moved.You live in the desert And desert plants are about the only plants that will survive this heat.Your mex. bird will do well here with proper watering.Forget your lavender. The bush by fast food places are texas sage( another desert bush that grows quite tall but is always pruned into odd shapes like balls and squares and triangles.I've also seen them trimmed into bells at a Taco Bell. --- James_Jennifer1@hotmail.com wrote: > I have 13 small desert bushes in my fron yard and I > want to get rid of them. I do not like desert trees > and bushes they're ugly, and I've been asking anyone > and everyone what kind of shrubs can I plant in my > yard that can withstand our hot weather. We do like > the mexican bird of paradise, and I love lavender > bushes but can't find any. Any suggestions? I know > this may be a difficult question, but it's worth a > shot. My husband likes those little shrubs that you > see mostly aroung fast food places. They have very > small leaves and they're round but the gardners > square them off on the tops. What are they called? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/ From timjd3@cox.net Sun Apr 14 23:25:48 2002 From: timjd3@cox.net (timjd3@cox.net) Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 16:25:48 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204142325.g3ENPm919194@Ag.arizona.edu> What is the cause or reason for the purple dots on citrus leaves? My initial thought was frost, but our trees are in a pretty pretected area. Thanks for your help. From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun Apr 14 23:55:20 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 16:55:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gnatty Potting Soil Message-ID: <3CBA16E8.64B00441@qwest.net> Here's a digest of the replies that didn't post to the server, in case others are interested. As you can see, said 'solarization' was actively at work on my poor fried brain after spending most of the last few days immersed in yard and pond cleanup...... Why didn't I think of this? We had a similar question this morning in diagnostic class. Best answer is to let it dry out completely. I've never had this problem, but a thought popped into my head. What if you put the soil in big plastic bags and left them in the sun for a week. I'll bet those gnats/eggs aren't tough enough to come through that, and the soil won't be poisoned, just cooked. We solarize ground soil in a similar way... I believe you can solarize the soil. Cover the soil with sealed clear plastic in a location that gets lots of sun. It should take a couple of weeks to be sure that it is sanitized. Spread it out and dry it out in the sun. A few afternoons of Phoenix sun wil solve the gnat problem. From cmjesko@earthlink.net Mon Apr 15 01:32:50 2002 From: cmjesko@earthlink.net (cmjesko@earthlink.net) Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 18:32:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204150132.g3F1Wo900439@Ag.arizona.edu> My gardenias are pale yellow including the new leaves. They also have a brown, dry, crispy, place on the end of the leaves. Could you please tell me what to do with them? From sprock12@aol.com Mon Apr 15 04:07:58 2002 From: sprock12@aol.com (sprock12@aol.com) Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 21:07:58 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204150407.g3F47w918210@Ag.arizona.edu> I had a infestation of fungus gnats last year in my house. I have decided that they come from my flower beds outside that I have mulched heavy. What can I do to get rid of them??? I have sprayed the soil a few times with malathion, but not sure if that will help much. From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Mon Apr 15 04:42:08 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 21:42:08 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] sick roses In-Reply-To: <200204142220.g3EMKk913417@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20020415044208.73036.qmail@web14909.mail.yahoo.com> While you don't say how gal per hour your drippers are putting out,I will assume(hate that word) its wrong.You should be giving your roses enough water to det to a depth of at least 2-3 feet.This should be done on a 5-7 day cycle. The yellow leaves are generally a sign of to much water( the soil is to wet to long)Your legend could be a sign of powdery mildew.A fungicide could help . Remove the leaves with the powder and discard. --- bandbhall@aol.com wrote: > Our roses get drip water, 1 hour 3times a day, 3 > days a week. Is that too much. I had gotten a few > yellow leaves at the bottom of the plants and they > seemed dry so we have upped the water as above, but > now another plant has some yellow leaves? What do > you think? Also one long cane on a Ledgend rose has > a few raised snow white spots, all the leaves on > that cane were wilted. I cut the cane off, but what > was that? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/ From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Mon Apr 15 04:47:46 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 21:47:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] sick gardenias In-Reply-To: <200204150132.g3F1Wo900439@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20020415044746.34888.qmail@web14904.mail.yahoo.com> First, gardeniais din't like our soil. They like an acid soil so you must add soil sulfur to the soil and use an acidifier fertilizer.Second you are watering to often and not deep enough when when you water. Water to a depth of 2 feet every 5-7 days at our present temps. --- cmjesko@earthlink.net wrote: > My gardenias are pale yellow including the > new leaves. They also have a brown, dry, crispy, > place on the end of the leaves. Could you > please tell me what to do with them? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/ From Seedfiendcc@aol.com Mon Apr 15 08:50:14 2002 From: Seedfiendcc@aol.com (Seedfiendcc@aol.com) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 04:50:14 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <37.25f64a86.29ebee46@aol.com> --part1_37.25f64a86.29ebee46_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Gardenias are not easy to grow here, but not impossible. You will need to pay attention to soil pH, moisture, fertilization, salts, sun exposure, and minimal handling/pruning. Growing gardenias in the ground makes the control of pH difficult--our soils are notoriously alkaline. However, in a container, it is much easier to give gardenias the slightly acidic pH they need to do well. A higher than desirable pH can lead to the yellowing of leaves, because micronutrients become less available to the plant. Try to plant in containers at least 16" in diameter. This size, and larger, minimizes soil temperature fluctuations in our extreme summers. Gardenias like moisture, but not soggy feet. For this, I use a container soil mix that is custom. I use at least 1/3 pre-soaked peat moss, at least 1/3 pumice and the rest is premium commercial potting soil. The peat moss holds moisture, and the pumice prevents soggy feet. (You can get pumice at Baker Nursery--40th St. N of Thomas) The peat moss also lowers the pH a bit--promoting better leaf color. Gardenias are heavy feeders, because they work hard to make blooms. To satisfy them, I use a water-soluble, acid-loving plant food that also contains micronutrients like iron, manganese and zinc. I use it at about 1/4 the recommended strength for EACH watering. The nitrogen and added micronutrients should improve your leaf color. Gardenias are sensitive to salt in our water. In fact, this is probably the cause of those brown leaf edges you described. Every couple of weeks, I flood my gardenia containters to flush out accumulated salts. (However, don't let the concern over salts stop you from washing the plant off every couple of weeks. Gardenias like a SOFT shower in the EVENING twice a month or so.) Keeping gardenias in containers also gives you the ability to move them around--allowing you to find just the right light exposure. I keep my gardenias under a big mesquite tree. In the summer, they get morning sun until 8:30 AM. or so. After that, they are in filtered shade. The important thing to remember is that gardenias can easily burn in direct sun, and afternoon sun is essentially out of the question. Most valley gardenias are kept in the shade. Gardenia blossoms don't "like" being touched. Touching gardenia blossoms will make them turn color. Although, sometimes they are just tan seemingly without cause. However,you can mix a sprinkling (1/4 cup) of aluminum sulfate into the top 1" of potting soil at the VERY PERIMETER of the pot, and water it in thoroughly. This helps make the blossoms more white. Take extreme care not to disturb the roots, because they grow close to the soil surface. Gardenias resent pruning, so when removing blossoms, use that opportunity to make any structural corrections--but realize that the plant won't appreciate it. I don't know how frost-tender gardenias are in our winters. I always cover my gardenias with sheets on cold winter nights--I haven't taken any chances. Best of luck. CCarlson --part1_37.25f64a86.29ebee46_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Gardenias are not easy to grow here, but not impossible. You will need to pay attention to soil pH, moisture, fertilization, salts, sun exposure, and minimal handling/pruning.

Growing gardenias in the ground makes the control of pH difficult--our soils are notoriously alkaline. However, in a container, it is much easier to give gardenias the slightly acidic pH they need to do well. A higher than desirable pH can lead to the yellowing of leaves, because micronutrients become less available to the plant. Try to plant in containers at least 16" in diameter. This size, and larger, minimizes soil temperature fluctuations in our extreme summers.

Gardenias like moisture, but not soggy feet. For this, I use a container soil mix that is custom. I use at least 1/3 pre-soaked peat moss, at least 1/3 pumice and the rest is premium commercial potting soil. The peat moss holds moisture, and the pumice prevents soggy feet. (You can get pumice at Baker Nursery--40th St. N of Thomas) The peat moss also lowers the pH a bit--promoting better leaf color.

Gardenias are heavy feeders, because they work hard to make blooms. To satisfy them, I use a water-soluble, acid-loving plant food that also contains micronutrients like iron, manganese and zinc. I use it at about 1/4 the recommended strength for EACH watering. The nitrogen and added micronutrients should improve your leaf color.

Gardenias are sensitive to salt in our water. In fact, this is probably the cause of those brown leaf edges you described. Every couple of weeks, I flood my gardenia containters to flush out accumulated salts. (However, don't let the concern over salts stop you from washing the plant off every couple of weeks. Gardenias like a SOFT shower in the EVENING twice a month or so.)

Keeping gardenias in containers also gives you the ability to move them around--allowing you to find just the right light exposure. I keep my gardenias under a big mesquite tree. In the summer, they get morning sun until 8:30 AM. or so. After that, they are in filtered shade. The important thing to remember is that gardenias can easily burn in direct sun, and afternoon sun is essentially out of the question. Most valley gardenias are kept in the shade.

Gardenia blossoms don't "like" being touched. Touching gardenia blossoms will make them turn color. Although, sometimes they are just tan seemingly without cause. However,you can mix a sprinkling (1/4 cup) of aluminum sulfate into the top 1" of potting soil at the VERY PERIMETER of the pot, and water it in thoroughly. This helps make the blossoms more white. Take extreme care not to disturb the roots, because they grow close to the soil surface.

Gardenias resent pruning, so when removing blossoms, use that opportunity to make any structural corrections--but realize that the plant won't appreciate it.

I don't know how frost-tender gardenias are in our winters. I always cover my gardenias with sheets on cold winter nights--I haven't taken any chances.

Best of luck. CCarlson --part1_37.25f64a86.29ebee46_boundary-- From j_harrell@NetZero.net Mon Apr 15 14:42:41 2002 From: j_harrell@NetZero.net (Jackie and Bill Harrell) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 07:42:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Composting chesnuts Message-ID: <3CBAE6E1.7BA03357@NetZero.net> Dear A.G., I have some roasted chesnuts that turned out hard as marbles (that's ANOTHER problem, and if anybody out there has any idea how I did that, please let me know!). Is it worth throwing them into my compost? I fear they will lie unscathed for YEARS! The outside thin shell, of course, will go, but if the nut is so rockhard, is it any use? I have lots. Seems like they could be rattling around in there for a looong time. Thanks, as always! Jackie Harrell From s2@arcworldwide.com Mon Apr 15 15:01:28 2002 From: s2@arcworldwide.com (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 08:01:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Landscape Junkie :-P References: <20020415044746.34888.qmail@web14904.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3CBAEB48.F799140C@arcworldwide.com> Hi MGs and all, After planting 7 trees, 5 shrubs and 3 ocotillos (!) over the weekend, my arms are scarred and bruised (I'm just telling everyone I'm a landscape junkie) but I have one more (stupid?) question... Seems like everytime I've seen newly planted ocotillos, they remain bound for sometime before the wires are cut and the canes loosed. My questions are 1. How long? 2. Why??? -- Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. Vice President, Communications & Technology ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org ===================================================== "I became convinced we are here for each other." -- R. Buckminster Fuller From srust@apscc.org Mon Apr 15 15:15:00 2002 From: srust@apscc.org (srust@apscc.org) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 08:15:00 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204151515.g3FFF0924664@Ag.arizona.edu> I live in Flagstaff and we are facing potential water resrtictions. Will my grass stay alive, but dormant, if I restrict watering? Will it return to a healthy state when regular watering is resumed? I have heard that reduced fertilization is also helpful, any other helpful tips? From Jonathan Kandell" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_008E_01C1E455.FF65CFA0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I've had lots of trouble growing edible amaranth over the last few = years. When direct seeding, they seem to dry out and get washed away = and not germinate. This year I've been transplanting from trays with = mixed success at the "two real leaf" stage. But they'll do ok for a few = weeks, then die. They get eaten an awful lot by something, snipped off = down to the stem at night. (Too tiny for cutworms, though.) My best = success thus far has come from the seedings shaded under dried weeds. = Should I let them grow to larger plants before transplanting, or is = there something else I can do to protect the tiny seedlings from = insects? Has anyone had any success with this native plant which is supposed to = do so well here? Also, anyone recommend any types of amaranth with = tasty leaves? Any tips on producing more leaf and putting off = flowering/seeding? jk=20 ------=_NextPart_000_008E_01C1E455.FF65CFA0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I've had lots of trouble growing edible amaranth = over the=20 last few years. When direct seeding, they seem to dry out and get = washed=20 away and not germinate. This year I've been transplanting from = trays with=20 mixed success at the "two real leaf" stage. But they'll do ok = for a=20 few weeks, then die. They get eaten an awful lot by = something,=20 snipped off down to the stem at night. (Too tiny for cutworms, = though.) =20 My best success thus far has come from the = seedings=20 shaded under dried weeds. Should I let them grow to larger plants = before=20 transplanting, or is there something else I can do to protect the tiny = seedlings=20 from insects?

Has anyone had any success with this native = plant which is=20 supposed to do so well here? Also, anyone recommend any types of = amaranth=20 with tasty leaves? Any tips on producing more leaf and putting off = flowering/seeding?

------=_NextPart_000_008E_01C1E455.FF65CFA0-- From s2@arcworldwide.com Mon Apr 15 15:47:27 2002 From: s2@arcworldwide.com (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 08:47:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] help in growing edible amaranth References: <009801c1e490$cbc9ad20$6839bbd0@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <3CBAF60F.C601B069@arcworldwide.com> Jonathon, I've seen photos of huge amaranth at the Native Seed/SEARCH gardens. I'd bet their gardeners might have some answers for you. -- Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. Vice President, Communications & Technology ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org ===================================================== "I became convinced we are here for each other." -- R. Buckminster Fuller From fyoung@girsberger-usa.com Mon Apr 15 15:55:47 2002 From: fyoung@girsberger-usa.com (fyoung@girsberger-usa.com) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 08:55:47 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204151555.g3FFtl903074@Ag.arizona.edu> I planted a golden delicious apple tree 3 years ago. To date, it still has not produced a flower. How can it pollinate without flowers? Is there something I should do to make a flower grow on it? From cecnbet@aol.com Mon Apr 15 18:19:45 2002 From: cecnbet@aol.com (cecnbet@aol.com) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 11:19:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204151819.g3FIJj906674@Ag.arizona.edu> I was wondering if you have some persimmon trees on hand. And what kind you have if any/ The price of them. I am from Oregon and looking for some persimmon rees to plant we have a farm 22 acres. Can you help me. thank you betty Kelley From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Apr 15 18:24:00 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 18:24:00 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Apples Message-ID: I believe Anna's, Golden Dorsett and Eisheimer are the only apple varieties that will produce fruit in the Phoenix/Tucson area. If you are in Phoenix/Tucson, you do not have enough chill hours in the winter for golden delicious to produce fruit. Where are you located? Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: fyoung@girsberger-usa.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 08:55:47 -0700 (MST) > >I planted a golden delicious apple tree 3 years ago. To date, it still has >not produced a flower. How can it pollinate without flowers? Is there >something I should do to make a flower grow on it? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From reidb_g@yahoo.com Mon Apr 15 18:51:43 2002 From: reidb_g@yahoo.com (Reid Guzy) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 11:51:43 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Amaranth Message-ID: <20020415185143.82620.qmail@web13405.mail.yahoo.com> Jonathan, I have not experienced difficulties with Amaranthus. Be more gentle with watering and perhaps use a mulch. Full size amaranth leaves can be bright red and sometimes grow to a foot long (depending on variety) so it is easy to notice when they are drooping for lack of water. Are the amaranth fenced in? If not they may be feeding nocturnal rodents. Direct seeding is usually effective. Plant more than you need and thin when small. The leaves are really edible only when small anyway. Try steaming. If all else fails try wild amaranth. If you use straw mulch you will not have any shortage of them. The leaves taste good, even when larger. I actually prefer wild amaranth (palmeri?) leaves' taste to the domesticated ones. Not an MG, Reid __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/ From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Apr 15 19:15:59 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 12:15:59 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Christopher Creek Area References: <200204132200.g3DM0D915385@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3CBB26EF.EF919E49@qwest.net> You've got some great resources [and some darn nice folks] who are our counterparts in your neck of the woods. Check out: http://ag.arizona.edu/gila/ Good luck! Linda Guy, MG PLALLEN@cox.net wrote: > I am interested in putting in a garden in the Christopher Creek area. This is a part time residence and we turn off the water while we are gone. I would like to find information on how to set up a barrel or drum system that would allow the catching of rain water and could be supplimented with a hose when rain is scarce. I need information on what type of timer, if any, and also tubing/drip/irrigation system should be used with this. The garden will start out small since I want this to be successful and can be expanded from there. > > Thank you for your information. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From psensky@qwest.net Mon Apr 15 19:55:05 2002 From: psensky@qwest.net (psensky@qwest.net) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 12:55:05 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204151955.g3FJt5928160@Ag.arizona.edu> I have healthy tomatoes plants with lots of blossoms, but the blossoms are not setting. They bloom, drop their heads and fall off.Can you give me any suggestions? thanks, pam From gwright@Ag.arizona.edu Mon Apr 15 12:45:49 2002 From: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu (Glenn C. Wright) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 05:45:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: Citrus Growing information Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020415054439.00b64270@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_17112796==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Dear Mr. Wertel: I'm forwarding your request to the Arizona Arid gardener listserve. They have several top-notch Master Gardeners from the Phoenix area who will be able to answer your questions. Good Luck! GCW >Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 16:25:27 -0700 >From: Scott Wertel >User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows; U; Windows NT 5.0; en-US; rv:0.9.4.1) >Gecko/20020314 Netscape6/6.2.2 >X-Accept-Language: en-us >To: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: Citrus Growing information > >Glenn: > >I got your name off of the UofA Coop Extension website >(http://ag.arizona.edu/aes/citrusnews/) while searching for information on >how to take care of citrus trees. > >I recently bought a house that has three citrus trees in the yard. I >haven't seen any fruit yet, so I don't know what kind, but the house is >approximately 3-4 years old. I assume the trees were planted at that >time. Since I know nothing about taking care of citrues, I'm looking for >information on how to take care of them: how much to water and how often; >when to fertilize, how much, and what kind; what type of pesticides are >safe; how to recognize disease and treat it. > >Do you have any tips sheets that you could pass on to me with this >information, or point me to a website with this information? > >Thanks, > >--Scott Wertel >Mesa, AZ > Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D. Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist University of Arizona Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center Route 1, Box 40M Somerton, AZ 85350 Phone: 928-726-0458 FAX: 928-726-1363 e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu --=====================_17112796==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Dear Mr. Wertel:
I'm forwarding your request to the Arizona Arid gardener listserve. They have several top-notch Master Gardeners from the Phoenix area who will be able to answer your questions.

Good Luck!
GCW

Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 16:25:27 -0700
From: Scott Wertel <scott.wertel@cox.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows; U; Windows NT 5.0; en-US; rv:0.9.4.1) Gecko/20020314 Netscape6/6.2.2
X-Accept-Language: en-us
To: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: Citrus Growing information

Glenn:

I got your name off of the UofA Coop Extension website (http://ag.arizona.edu/aes/citrusnews/) while searching for information on how to take care of citrus trees.

I recently bought a house that has three citrus trees in the yard. I haven't seen any fruit yet, so I don't know what kind, but the house is approximately 3-4 years old. I assume the trees were planted at that time. Since I know nothing about taking care of citrues, I'm looking for information on how to take care of them: how much to water and how often; when to fertilize, how much, and what kind; what type of pesticides are safe; how to recognize disease and treat it.

Do you have any tips sheets that you could pass on to me with this information, or point me to a website with this information?

Thanks,

--Scott Wertel
Mesa, AZ

Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D.
Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist
University of Arizona
Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center
Route 1, Box 40M
Somerton, AZ 85350
Phone: 928-726-0458
FAX: 928-726-1363
e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu --=====================_17112796==_.ALT-- From asundem@aol.com Mon Apr 15 20:28:18 2002 From: asundem@aol.com (asundem@aol.com) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 13:28:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204152028.g3FKSI905598@Ag.arizona.edu> From asundem@aol.com Mon Apr 15 20:39:33 2002 From: asundem@aol.com (asundem@aol.com) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 13:39:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204152039.g3FKdX907986@Ag.arizona.edu> i have a bottle tree whose roots have extended over 10 feet from the tree and along my house foundation.they are s large as 2 to 4 inches in diameter. one root, about an inch in diameter, found a small hole in the foundation and has grown into it. questions:(1) since i have cut the root at the edge of the foundation will it continue to grow inside the foundation?(2) will additional roots raise the foundation(i have three trees within 5 feet 9f the house. will they raise or destroy the foundation? (3) whats the best way to handle this tree problem? From boofie@bigfoot.com Mon Apr 15 21:40:10 2002 From: boofie@bigfoot.com (boofie@bigfoot.com) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 17:40:10 -0400 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Drip system/Graywater Message-ID: <20020415214013.HFWF18064.lakemtao03.cox.net@smtp.east.cox.net> What is greywater? I keep getting these messages confused with my Greyhound group. THinking people on that group were putting tubs outside for their dogs to lay in.... silly me!! :) Boof ============================================================ From: "Carol Lydic" Date: 2002/04/12 Fri AM 12:16:08 EDT To: "Sherryl Stalinski" , "Arid Gardener Listserv" Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] Drip system/Graywater Sherryl: You are fortunate to be in Tucson where the City is proactive about gray water. Contact Val Little at the Water Resources Research Center. They have an active gray watr program and can surely help with your project. She spoke at the Master Gardener conference in Prescott last fall--a very insightful talk and knowledgeable person on gray water! Carol LYdic Gila Co Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Sherryl Stalinski Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2002 11:35 AM To: Arid Gardener Listserv Subject: [Arid_gardener] Drip system/Graywater I know one of you MGs has a lot of experience/knowledge of drip systems... here's my question: We want to convert our gray water (tubs, showers) and tie them into a drip system that will go to the new trees we're planting. Already strategized a shut off/bypass so that we're not over-watering and the bypass on "off" days can go off into the wash (then it can water our sad-looking wild creosote to perk them up a bit). The problem is the new trees/shrubs will be across the driveway. So my husband dug a 16" trench and buried a pvc pipe to run the drip through under the driveway. Now we're wondering how tub/shower water, even though it is coming from 3' above grade, will get through that "low spot" without any pressure? Is that going to work for us, or one day will our tub just not drain because the water won't want to go back up past the lowered stretch of tubing? (The driveway is about 30' from the drains we'll be converting) -- Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. Vice President, Communications & Technology ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org ===================================================== "I became convinced we are here for each other." -- R. Buckminster Fuller _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener ============================================================ Tucson, AZ From s2@arcworldwide.com Mon Apr 15 22:01:52 2002 From: s2@arcworldwide.com (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 15:01:52 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Greyhounds & Graywater References: <20020415214013.HFWF18064.lakemtao03.cox.net@smtp.east.cox.net> Message-ID: <3CBB4DD0.30DFFA59@arcworldwide.com> Hi Boof, My greyhound mix won't have anything to do with tubs of water :-). Either way, greys and graywater are two different, but equally worthy, topics. Graywater is the 'used' water from tubs, showers, sinks. "Blackwater" is the stuff with "solids" that gets flushed down the toilet into your septic or sewer. Friends of ours in Santa Fe had actually built an amazing constructed wetlands that reclaimed both their gray AND BLACK water from 15 guest rooms, offices and a 6,000 sq. foot main house... by the time the water had been purified through a stepped series of wetland ponds, it tested at recreational quality. I'm not so ambitious (!). I do, however, think its the biggest waste to see our 30-gallon sunken garden tub in our master bath emptied into the septic system, then turn on the hose/drip to water my trees. So, in a way, it seems just as wasteful to throw away good, useful water as it is to "throw away" retired racers just because they're getting to old at four years to win races. -- Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. Vice President, Communications & Technology ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org ===================================================== "I became convinced we are here for each other." -- R. Buckminster Fuller From keith@bigzoo.net Mon Apr 15 21:53:04 2002 From: keith@bigzoo.net (keith@bigzoo.net) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 14:53:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204152153.g3FLr4925819@Ag.arizona.edu> I have been communicating with Jeff Schalau about crabgrass. He referred me to you. Here is the situation. I recently moved from Salt Lake City. We have bermuda grass in our yard and the crabgrass is taking over everywhere. We tried a chemical from Home Depot and it did nothing. My husband has pulled a few of the weeds but there is so much. What can we do or use to get rid of the crabgrass? We live in Gilbert. Thanks! From sonja_moss@hotmail.com Mon Apr 15 22:04:04 2002 From: sonja_moss@hotmail.com (sonja_moss@hotmail.com) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 15:04:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204152204.g3FM44928526@Ag.arizona.edu> Recently bought 36 acres between Williams and Grand Canyon. Right at 6000'. How can I find out what will grow out there besides cedar and pine? Would like to know how to find out water requirements, how to know if I have to treat the soil to plant them, etc. Will be using gray water to keep plants watered. Thanks. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Apr 15 22:10:03 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 18:10:03 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus Growing information Message-ID: --part1_a2.240936d9.29eca9bb_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Scott, University of Arizona has an excellent bulletin which has info on citrus care, and is available for $1.00 from Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040. On line you will find useful info on watering and citrus diseases at: www.ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151 http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/diseases/az1154/ Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_a2.240936d9.29eca9bb_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Scott,

University of Arizona has an excellent bulletin which has info on citrus care, and is available for $1.00 from Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040. On line you will find useful info on watering and citrus diseases at: www.ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/diseases/az1154/

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener

--part1_a2.240936d9.29eca9bb_boundary-- From boofie@bigfoot.com Mon Apr 15 22:22:15 2002 From: boofie@bigfoot.com (boofie@bigfoot.com) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 18:22:15 -0400 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Unwanted palm trees. Message-ID: <20020415222217.KQIX21159.lakemtao04.cox.net@smtp.east.cox.net> I have two palm trees in my back yard, here in Tucson. They are about 6' tall, I have no idea what kind of palm they are, but I really don't want them. I was trying to decide how to "let them die peacefully" but realized that one of you might want them. If anyone is interested in these palms, let me know. Boof Tucson, AZ From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Apr 15 22:24:57 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 18:24:57 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Coconino county gardening Message-ID: --part1_b9.1f054ae3.29ecad39_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Why not try the Master Gardeners in Coconino ncounty, they will know a lot more about your situation than us desert folk. Try them at this link: http://ag.arizona.edu/coconino/ Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_b9.1f054ae3.29ecad39_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Why not try the Master Gardeners in Coconino ncounty, they will know a lot more about your situation than us desert folk. Try them at this link: http://ag.arizona.edu/coconino/

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_b9.1f054ae3.29ecad39_boundary-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Apr 16 00:44:56 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 00:44:56 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Unwanted palm trees. Message-ID: You might want to call TC Palms -- they are palm recyclers and may pay you to take the palms away. 622-3570 I have no firsthand experience with them but I have seen their flyers. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: >Reply-To: boofie@bigfoot.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Unwanted palm trees. >Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 18:22:15 -0400 > >I have two palm trees in my back yard, here in Tucson. They are about 6' >tall, I have no idea what kind of palm they are, but I really don't want >them. I was trying to decide how to "let them die peacefully" but realized >that one of you might want them. >If anyone is interested in these palms, let me know. >Boof > >Tucson, AZ > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Join the world�s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From copper@bargainsail.com Tue Apr 16 00:46:59 2002 From: copper@bargainsail.com (Copper Bittner) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 17:46:59 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] re:growing of amaranth Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000E_01C1E4A5.8B148880 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The following is from a master gardener here in Phoenix who doesn't monitor this list. But I knew of her interest and success with your plant. Here is her answer. She also says if necessary, she would be happy to talk to you. If needed, let me know your phone number and I'll have her call you. Good Luck, Copper Bittner/MG Amaranths have long tap roots and, as a result, may not transplant well. Sowing seed directly into level, sunken beds with berms works well for me. I sow mine much like native wildflowers (1/4" raked into loose dirt), then gently sprinkled with water for the first three days or so...they usually germinate in 3-5 days and, after that, I lightly cover the bed with mulch and gently, slowly "flood irrigate" as needed (which right now is about every 7-10 days). Amaranths are desert adapted plants and too much water, fertilizer and other TLC can hinder their growth and create unhealthy plants. They should be thinned to about 8" apart if you plan to harvest leaves and 12-15" apart for seed heads. All young amaranth leaves are edible and many of the seed catalogs will give some indication as to whether a variety is suited more for leaves or seed heads. Basically, it boils down to personal taste. I'm growing two varieties from Seeds of Change...one's a redhead the other a blond! The nipping of small plants may be baby grackles learning what can be eaten and what is just plain fun to play with. They also sometimes truncate my sunflowers and sorghum. If needed, I just reseed. I have found that the problem can be reduced or eliminated by being the garden early mornings and late afternoons when the birds are "dining." I hope this helps. Linda T. ------=_NextPart_000_000E_01C1E4A5.8B148880 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

The following is from a master gardener here = in Phoenix=20 who doesn't monitor this list. But I knew of her interest and = success with=20 your plant. Here is her answer. She also says if necessary, = she=20 would be happy to talk to you. If needed, let me know your phone = number=20 and I'll have her call you.

Good Luck,

Copper Bittner/MG

Amaranths have long tap roots and, as a result, may not = transplant well.=20 Sowing seed directly into level, sunken beds with = berms works=20 well for me. I sow mine much like native wildflowers (1/4" raked into = loose=20 dirt), then gently sprinkled with water for the first three = days or=20 so...they usually germinate in 3-5 days and, after that, I lightly = cover=20 the bed with mulch and gently, slowly "flood irrigate" as needed = (which=20 right now is about every 7-10 days).

Amaranths are desert adapted plants and too much water, = fertilizer=20 and other TLC can hinder their growth and create unhealthy plants. They = should=20 be thinned to about 8" apart if you plan to harvest leaves and 12-15" = apart for=20 seed heads. All young amaranth leaves are edible and many of the seed = catalogs=20 will give some indication as to whether a variety is suited=20 more for leaves or seed heads. Basically, it boils down to personal = taste.=20 I'm growing two varieties from Seeds of Change...one's a redhead = the other=20 a blond!

The=20 nipping of small plants may be baby grackles learning what can be = eaten and=20 what is just plain fun to play with. They also sometimes truncate = my=20 sunflowers and sorghum. If needed, I just reseed. I have found that the = problem=20 can be reduced or eliminated by being the garden early mornings and = late=20 afternoons when the birds are "dining."

I hope=20 this helps. Linda T.

------=_NextPart_000_000E_01C1E4A5.8B148880-- From benemelisaz@worldnet.att.net Tue Apr 16 01:50:08 2002 From: benemelisaz@worldnet.att.net (benemelisaz@worldnet.att.net) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 18:50:08 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204160150.g3G1o8a06351@Ag.arizona.edu> What is cochineal scale and how do I get rid of it? My prickly pear are covered with the white sticky "web" which turns red if sprayed or pulled off. I have been spraying with the hose, but it continues to come back and has now infested all of my prickly pear. From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Tue Apr 16 01:58:41 2002 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 18:58:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cochineal scale References: <200204160150.g3G1o8a06351@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000f01c1e4ea$3d2ca220$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> If left untreated the cochineal multiplies and covers the plant. This is not only an eyesore; it can weaken and kill the host plant as the insect is sucking the plant juices. Here is a link that discusses the different methods of dealing with this pest. http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening/news/azdailystar/fuzz_prickly_pear.html Scott Rogers MG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002 6:50 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > What is cochineal scale and how do I get rid of it? My prickly pear are covered with the white sticky "web" which turns red if sprayed or pulled off. I have been spraying with the hose, but it continues to come back and has now infested all of my prickly pear. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From umiller@azdps.com Tue Apr 16 01:56:00 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 18:56:00 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] sick gardenias In-Reply-To: <20020415044746.34888.qmail@web14904.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: You can also go to this site: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener and type in gardenias and search for lots of previous discussions on gardenias and their care here in the desert. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of jack blake Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2002 9:48 PM To: cmjesko@earthlink.net Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] sick gardenias First, gardeniais din't like our soil. They like an acid soil so you must add soil sulfur to the soil and use an acidifier fertilizer.Second you are watering to often and not deep enough when when you water. Water to a depth of 2 feet every 5-7 days at our present temps. --- cmjesko@earthlink.net wrote: > My gardenias are pale yellow including the > new leaves. They also have a brown, dry, crispy, > place on the end of the leaves. Could you > please tell me what to do with them? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/ _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Tue Apr 16 02:48:41 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 19:48:41 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Landscape Junkie :-P ocotillo In-Reply-To: <3CBAEB48.F799140C@arcworldwide.com> Message-ID: <20020416024841.35629.qmail@web14904.mail.yahoo.com> Don't know why. Maybe for the same reason some people leave their trees tied to that stake the nursery puts against the trunk. --- Sherryl Stalinski wrote: > Hi MGs and all, > After planting 7 trees, 5 shrubs and 3 ocotillos (!) > over the weekend, > my arms are scarred and bruised (I'm just telling > everyone I'm a > landscape junkie) but I have one more (stupid?) > question... > > Seems like everytime I've seen newly planted > ocotillos, they remain > bound for sometime before the wires are cut and the > canes loosed. My > questions are 1. How long? 2. Why??? > > -- > Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. > Vice President, Communications & Technology > ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com > Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at > AOL-IM: AuroraS2 > > Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org > ===================================================== > "I became convinced we are here for each other." > -- R. Buckminster > Fuller > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/ From bob@newdigate.phxcoxmail.com Tue Apr 16 02:49:30 2002 From: bob@newdigate.phxcoxmail.com (bob@newdigate.phxcoxmail.com) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 19:49:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204160249.g3G2nTa13032@Ag.arizona.edu> can you grow babys breath in the phoenix area? From watsontl@mindspring.com Tue Apr 16 13:20:39 2002 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 06:20:39 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Composting chesnuts References: <3CBAE6E1.7BA03357@NetZero.net> Message-ID: <000e01c1e549$81f9f560$5c6fb83f@oemcomputer> Any hard object that remains intact could take a long time to break down in a compost heap. You might try putting them in a bag or old pillow case and take a hammer to them before composting. The pieces will present more surface area for the microcritters in the heap to use as points of entry, and the old chestnuts will break down quicker than would otherwise happen. (Which is not, of a course, a guarantee that they will break down quickly.) As for why they are so hard, they may have been too old, or you might have cooked them too long. Its been years (a lot of years) since I had anything to do with roasting chestnuts, but I seem to recall that freshness and timing were essential. I think we also took off the thin, outer layer before roasting, too. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jackie and Bill Harrell" To: "arid gardener" Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002 7:42 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Composting chesnuts > Dear A.G., > > I have some roasted chesnuts that turned out hard as marbles (that's > ANOTHER problem, and if anybody out there has any idea how I did that, > please let me know!). > > Is it worth throwing them into my compost? I fear they will lie > unscathed for YEARS! The outside thin shell, of course, will go, but if > the nut is so rockhard, is it any use? I have lots. Seems like they > could be rattling around in there for a looong time. > > Thanks, as always! > > Jackie Harrell > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From watsontl@mindspring.com Tue Apr 16 13:38:10 2002 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 06:38:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200204151955.g3FJt5928160@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <002a01c1e54b$f3d64ba0$5c6fb83f@oemcomputer> Immature plants will do this, since they don't have the resources to maintain the flowers, let alone set fruit. If yours are more than a couple of feet tall, maturity won't be the problem, but nutrient deficiency could be. Our soils in the desert are short on sulfur, a mineral essential to fruit production in tomatoes (among others). Sulfur can be added as soil sulfur, which you should be applying as a soil amendment to moderate our alkaline conditions. The first time I tried to grow tomatoes here I had otherwise healthy plants but very few fruit. Someone suggested sulfur and the next season we had about as many tomatoes as we could use. If you've been applying soil sulfur, of course, this isn't likely to be the problem. It might be a different micronutrient deficiency, a base that you can cover by using seaweed extract as a foliar fertilizer, or some environmental condition (too cool at night, irregular watering, etc.) Tell us more about where you are growing these tomatoes and someone might be able to spot a different potential problem you could address. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002 12:55 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I have healthy tomatoes plants with lots of blossoms, but the blossoms are not setting. They bloom, drop their heads and fall off.Can you give me any suggestions? thanks, pam > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From watsontl@mindspring.com Tue Apr 16 13:42:38 2002 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 06:42:38 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Landscape Junkie :-P ocotillo References: <20020416024841.35629.qmail@web14904.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <004f01c1e54c$94064a80$5c6fb83f@oemcomputer> At a guess I'd say it was just to make them easier to transport. (Certainly would make it safer!) Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "jack blake" To: "Sherryl Stalinski" Cc: Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002 7:48 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Landscape Junkie :-P ocotillo > Don't know why. Maybe for the same reason some people > leave their trees tied to that stake the nursery puts > against the trunk. > > --- Sherryl Stalinski wrote: > > Hi MGs and all, > > After planting 7 trees, 5 shrubs and 3 ocotillos (!) > > over the weekend, > > my arms are scarred and bruised (I'm just telling > > everyone I'm a > > landscape junkie) but I have one more (stupid?) > > question... > > > > Seems like everytime I've seen newly planted > > ocotillos, they remain > > bound for sometime before the wires are cut and the > > canes loosed. My > > questions are 1. How long? 2. Why??? > > > > -- > > Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. > > Vice President, Communications & Technology > > ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com > > Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at > > AOL-IM: AuroraS2 > > > > Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org > > > ===================================================== > > "I became convinced we are here for each other." > > -- R. Buckminster > > Fuller > > > > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax > http://taxes.yahoo.com/ > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu Tue Apr 16 14:58:22 2002 From: cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu (Carol Noyes) Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 07:58:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: why are the mesquite trees dying Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020416075809.00ab49b0@ag.arizona.edu> >From: M19Foley@aol.com >Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 00:02:48 EDT >Subject: why are the mesquite trees dying >To: cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu >X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Windows sub 138 > >saw your info on the web and had some question that i thought you might be >able to answer. >our family owns a ranch on the santa maria river near alamo lake. We have a >very large mesquite forest on this land, and we are noticing that many of the >trees are dying, and the forest overall, doesn't seem to be in good shape. >We were wondering what the lifespan of the mesquite is, and if many of the >older trees were dying from old age. We have also been concerned that many of >the younger trees don't seem to be doing all that well either. is this >because that ground water table is or could be low, or perhaps because the >forest has not been cut or thinned, and these younger trees are getting >choked because they are so close together, or perhaps they aren't getting >enough water. this brings up another question of how far down do the tap >roots of the mesquite go down. >I realize that's alot of questions, and since i've gone this far,i'll ask one >more. >Are there any diseases that Mesquites get that could be causing this forest >to die out? thank you for your time m19foley@aol.com 4/14/02 Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Cooperative Extension Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 602-470-8092 (fax) Have a wonderful day!! ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ From boofie@bigfoot.com Tue Apr 16 18:21:47 2002 From: boofie@bigfoot.com (boofie@bigfoot.com) Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 14:21:47 -0400 Subject: [Arid_gardener] removing tree roots Message-ID: <20020416182147.SWQK18443.lakemtao02.cox.net@smtp.east.cox.net> Will this work for Cats Claw as well? we have dug up a good portion of a cats claw plant, but fear there is no way of getting to all the roots. Boof ============================================================ From: jack blake Date: 2002/04/14 Sun PM 06:01:24 EDT To: dharleyboy@cs.com CC: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] removing tree roots Normally burying whats left of the trunk and roots is all you need do. Enzimes and other soil critters will do the job of decomposition. --- dharleyboy@cs.com wrote: > we have removed a large tree which was too close to > our block fence. how can we kill the roots that we > are unable to remove? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/ _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener ============================================================ Tucson, AZ From cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu Tue Apr 16 20:06:51 2002 From: cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu (Carol Noyes) Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 13:06:51 -0700 Subject: Fwd: Re: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: why are the mesquite trees dying Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020416130639.00abab80@ag.arizona.edu> M19FOLEY@AOL.COM >From: M19Foley@aol.com >Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 14:28:01 EDT >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: why are the mesquite trees dying >To: cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu >X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Windows sub 138 > >Thank you for your rapid reply to our inquiry. I was wondering if you could >answer the following, as I can't seem to find the info. >1.) What is the lifespan of the velvet mesquite ? >2.) How far are the mesquites cabable of pushing tap roots down ? >3.) How far do these tap roots travel on an annual basis? >4.) Do the Mesquites choke each other out if they are too close?, and if so >what is the recommended spacing. >Note: This Mesquite thicket is 2miles long and 1/2 to 3/4 of a mile wide. how >should > we clear it so that it will be as healthy as is possible? > >In answer to your inquiry. There has not been any new mining or other sources >that have been sucking out ground water, and it is not possible to water >these trees with any type of water truck. The trees could be watered with the >natural springs on the property, by running water lines and drip. In >addition, the entire forest (thicket), is on the banks of the river, and we >find it hard to believe that the water table has dropped too far for the >trees to reach it, although this is a possibility. The river runs year round, >although sometimes at a trickle. Very similar to the hassayampa, that run >through Wickenburg. > > Thank you very much for your quick >responses > M19FOLEY@AOL.COM From ginsea@aol.com Wed Apr 17 15:33:22 2002 From: ginsea@aol.com (ginsea@aol.com) Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 08:33:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204171533.g3HFXMa18383@Ag.arizona.edu> Where do we get liquid fence? Rabbits are destoying our yard. From dealejandro_family@yahoo.com Wed Apr 17 20:37:41 2002 From: dealejandro_family@yahoo.com (Edward & Jackee De Alejandro) Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 13:37:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Asian Citrus Trees In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Hi All, Well it has been a glorious and prosperous spring. I will have officially been here a year in May and have learned quite a lot about growing flowers and veggies here in the valley. I have used so much advice from this forum, it is truly a great asset to this region. The MG's and EG's (everyday gardeners) are awesome. I can't believe I still have tomato plants that I planted in Oct. of last year giving me fruit. I have even been able to plant some of the Indian corn that I used for decoration in Oct.. I am amazed at the things that will grow here given attention and water. Okay, enough rambling. I did come here for some advice. I have neighbor who is looking at how to grow a Kalamansi (Calamunding)(Citrus mitis Blanco) (syn. C. microcarpa Bunge) citus plant. It is also known erroneously as C. madurensis Lour. It is also known as: calamondin orange; Chinese, or China, orange; Panama orange; golden lime; scarlet lime; and, in the Philippines, kalamondin, kalamunding, kalamansi, calamansi, limonsito, or agridulce. Malayan names are limau kesturi ("musk lime") and limau chuit. In Thailand it is ma-nao-wan. We have some of the fruit with seeds but do not know how to go about preparing the seeds for planting and how to properly care for them while they are germinating. I have found a grower in California but they do not ship to AZ. We are also looking for information on the Kaffir Lime tree. Any information on either of these would be greatly appreciated!!!! Jackee at Luke AFB From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Apr 17 22:01:11 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 22:01:11 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] liquid fence Message-ID: >From: ginsea@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 08:33:22 -0700 (MST) > >Where do we get liquid fence? Rabbits are destoying our yard. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener I have not heard of this product and have no idea how well/if it works. We have been successful using chicken wire fences to exclude rabbits. A quick search of the web found this: LIQUID FENCE For repelling deer and rabbits from landscaping, flowers, shrubs, plants, vegetables, fruit, trees, vines and garden areas. LIQUID FENCE is a biodegradable animal repellent that was developed to keep certain animals from destroying plants, flowers, landscaping etc. based on an odor that certain animals find offensive. by following the suggested procedure of application of LIQUID FENCE, you will be able to keep the unwanted critters from destroying your valuable vegetation by "TRAINING" them to change their eating habits to places other than your yard. Call -888-92FENCE to order (example: tank spayer and one quart of concentrate is $50) --- Linda Drew Master Gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From pwolterb@Ag.arizona.edu Wed Apr 17 22:56:36 2002 From: pwolterb@Ag.arizona.edu (Paul Wolterbeek) Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 15:56:36 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] bodacious bromeliad at Boyce Thompson Arboretum Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020417155441.01bfd280@ag.arizona.edu> ...are you familiar with the birdwatchers' term "RBA" or Rare Bird Alert? well, I don't know if an appropriate acronym exists, but I have a Rare Plant Alert! take a look at the following website and see if this is a site ID you'd care to share with other botanists online (or in print or elsewhere). we have a truly unusual bromeliad blooming in the cactus garden. its about 7' tall and has twin beehive-size stalks bursting with green flowers -- take a look, see if you agree with me that they look like silk flowers. currently blooming strong, it will peak in the next 10 days or so. follow the website below to see photos! .... we also have our own flagship echinocereus -- the Boyce Thompson Hedgehog Cactus is in bloom as well! other than press releases, can you suggest other ways to publicize this within the botanophile community? http://ag.arizona.edu/btaevents/rareplant.htm ~paul wolterbeek volunteer coordinator boyce thompson arboretum From Jonathan Kandell" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C1E632.CD0E3C20 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I was wondering if anyone planted seeds deeper than generally = recommended on packets in our hot arid climates? jk ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C1E632.CD0E3C20 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I was wondering if anyone planted seeds deeper = than=20 generally recommended on packets in our hot arid climates?

------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C1E632.CD0E3C20-- From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu Apr 18 01:10:20 2002 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 18:10:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] adjust seed depth in arid lands? References: <001101c1e66d$7f830040$6a39bbd0@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <000001c1e678$299cf220$4650530c@j0r9501> I don't recall ever following the seed packet recommendations for planting depth. For outdoor spring planting and indoor seed starting, cover to about 3-4 X the narrow diameter and double that for late summer planting out in the garden through September. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jonathan Kandell" I was wondering if anyone planted seeds deeper than generally recommended on packets in our hot arid climates? From watsontl@mindspring.com Thu Apr 18 02:16:50 2002 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 19:16:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] adjust seed depth in arid lands? References: <001101c1e66d$7f830040$6a39bbd0@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <001401c1e67f$1b091660$f76bb83f@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C1E644.6D176960 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable As a matter of fact, I do, especially this time of year when the soil = surface dries out so quickly. I don't have any precise rules, but when = I plant beans or squash (and other cucurbits) I'm likely to have them an = inch deep, rather than the half inch the packages recommend. This = doesn't work very well with small seeds, though. Tom ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Jonathan Kandell=20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2002 5:10 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] adjust seed depth in arid lands? I was wondering if anyone planted seeds deeper than generally = recommended on packets in our hot arid climates? =20 jk ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C1E644.6D176960 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

As a matter of fact, I do, especially this time of = year when=20 the soil surface dries out so quickly. I don't have any = precise=20 rules, but when I plant beans or squash (and other cucurbits) = I'm=20 likely to have them an inch deep, rather than the half inch the packages = recommend. This doesn't work very well with small seeds,=20 though.

Tom

----- Original Message -----

From:=20 Jonathan=20 Kandell

To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu =

Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2002 = 5:10=20 PM

Subject: [Arid_gardener] adjust = seed=20 depth in arid lands?

I was wondering if anyone planted seeds deeper = than=20 generally recommended on packets in our hot arid = climates?

------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C1E644.6D176960-- From Fnsscates2@aol.com Thu Apr 18 03:09:09 2002 From: Fnsscates2@aol.com (Fnsscates2@aol.com) Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 23:09:09 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ross Root Feeder Message-ID: <18a.69fd855.29ef92d5@aol.com> --part1_18a.69fd855.29ef92d5_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I am looking for the manufacture of this devise. I need the O-ring insert from the old blue style feeder. Can you get me a phone number or e-mail address of the company. thanks Frank --part1_18a.69fd855.29ef92d5_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I am looking for the manufacture of this devise. I need the O-ring insert from the old blue style feeder. Can you get me a phone number or e-mail address of the company.

thanks Frank --part1_18a.69fd855.29ef92d5_boundary-- From barbstar39@aol.com Thu Apr 18 03:52:47 2002 From: barbstar39@aol.com (barbstar39@aol.com) Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 20:52:47 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204180352.g3I3qla13493@Ag.arizona.edu> Please sign me up----I am an intern in the MG program.......Barb From GeorgAz@aol.com Thu Apr 18 14:45:04 2002 From: GeorgAz@aol.com (GeorgAz@aol.com) Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 07:45:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204181445.g3IEj4a16548@Ag.arizona.edu> Read your response to dog damage(urine-gray dead patches in turf).Is there any supplement used in food to dilute nitrogen content without harming dog? We are having really bad lawn problems with a few new homeowners in our condo complex,who just let dogs out+are ruining community lawns + what was once verdant+green (no easy task in Az.) now looks like a minefield! Thanks for any info ! George From cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu Thu Apr 18 15:05:04 2002 From: cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu (Carol Noyes) Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 08:05:04 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Annual Pond Tour Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020418080132.00aa57f0@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_416498==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Annual Pond Tour - June 8, 2002 8:00 AM until 3:00 PM ENJOY SIX COOL NORTHEAST VALLEY PONDS. A SELF-GUIDED TOUR PRESENTED BY THE GREATER PHOENIX POND SOCIETY. TICKETS AVAILABLE BEGINNING SATURDAY, JUNE 1 AT: MESA HARPERS NURSERY - 1830 E. McKellips (west of Gilbert Road;); PHOENIX HARPERS NURSERY - 1702 E. Thomas Road (at 17th Street); SCOTTSDALE HARPERS NURSERY - 2529 N. Hayden Rd (south of Thomas); MOON VALLEY NURSERY - 18047 N. Tatum (between Bell & Union Hills). TICKET SALES END AT 1:30 PM, JUNE 8. PROCEEDS TO BENEFIT THE HASSAYAMPA RIVER PRESERVE Price: $5.00 (children 12 and under free). Contact: The Greater Phoenix Pond Society at jeffndi@earthlink.net, phone (602) 758-2934. Website: http://www.phoenixpond.com. --=====================_416498==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

Annual Pond Tour - June 8, 2002
8:00 AM until 3:00 PM

ENJOY SIX COOL NORTHEAST VALLEY PONDS. A SELF-GUIDED TOUR PRESENTED BY THE GREATER PHOENIX POND SOCIETY.

TICKETS AVAILABLE BEGINNING SATURDAY, JUNE 1 AT:
MESA HARPERS NURSERY - 1830 E. McKellips (west of Gilbert Road;);
PHOENIX HARPERS NURSERY - 1702 E. Thomas Road (at 17th Street); SCOTTSDALE HARPERS NURSERY - 2529 N. Hayden Rd (south of Thomas); MOON VALLEY NURSERY - 18047 N. Tatum (between Bell & Union Hills).

TICKET SALES END AT 1:30 PM, JUNE 8. PROCEEDS TO BENEFIT THE HASSAYAMPA RIVER PRESERVE

Price: $5.00 (children 12 and under free).

Contact: The Greater Phoenix Pond Society at jeffndi@earthlink.net, phone (602) 758-2934. Website: http://www.phoenixpond.com.

--=====================_416498==_.ALT-- From JaniceEPhx@aol.com Thu Apr 18 15:29:22 2002 From: JaniceEPhx@aol.com (JaniceEPhx@aol.com) Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 08:29:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204181529.g3IFTMa24705@Ag.arizona.edu> I live in Phoenix. How do I (or can I) get a compost bin that is made out of the recycled trash cans?? I saw them on the MG tour a couple of weeks ago. From doneal1007@aol.com Fri Apr 19 01:50:02 2002 From: doneal1007@aol.com (doneal1007@aol.com) Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 18:50:02 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204190150.g3J1o2308875@Ag.arizona.edu> Last fall I planted a few 15 gallon citrus trees. This spring they began setting on many blossoms and a few fruit, but not much foliage. Should I remove all fruit now, to stimulate new growth, for a healthier stronger tree next year. Thank you D.E. O'neal From sjbass@qwest.net Fri Apr 19 04:29:04 2002 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 21:29:04 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Neutralizing Pet Urine in Lawn References: <200204181445.g3IEj4a16548@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3CBF9D10.1C624EF2@qwest.net> George: Petsmart and Petco carry products that are supposed to neutralize dog urine. They are supplements that are given to the dog. I don't have experience with these products so I can't say for sure if they work. Maybe another reader can report whether they have had success with these products. Sue Bass GeorgAz@aol.com wrote: > Read your response to dog damage(urine-gray dead patches in turf).Is there any supplement used in food to dilute nitrogen content without harming dog? We are having really bad lawn problems with a few new homeowners in our condo complex,who just let dogs out+are ruining community lawns + what was once verdant+green (no easy task in Az.) now looks like a minefield! Thanks for any info ! George > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From azbtz@earthlink.net Fri Apr 19 12:34:32 2002 From: azbtz@earthlink.net (azbtz@earthlink.net) Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 05:34:32 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204191234.g3JCYW313899@Ag.arizona.edu> I have been looking for the product 'LIQUID FENCE' with no results. Can you tell me where I can puchase this here in the maricopa county area. thank you for any help you can give. From azbtz@earthlink.net Fri Apr 19 12:35:04 2002 From: azbtz@earthlink.net (azbtz@earthlink.net) Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 05:35:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204191235.g3JCZ4313962@Ag.arizona.edu> I have been looking for the product 'LIQUID FENCE' with no results. Can you tell me where I can puchase this here in the maricopa county area. thank you for any help you can give. From VanLinder@aol.com Fri Apr 19 15:46:08 2002 From: VanLinder@aol.com (VanLinder@aol.com) Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 11:46:08 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] ross root feeder Message-ID: <127.f8392a7.29f195c0@aol.com> Hello, I am also trying to find refills for my root feeder. I can find the fertilizer refills at Home Depot and Sutherlands Hardware stores, however I am unable to find the systemic insecticide. If you have found a sourch, please e-mail me. thanks, Karin VanLinder@aol.com From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Apr 19 16:17:21 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 12:17:21 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus bearing fruit Message-ID: <168.c5bc5c7.29f19d11@aol.com> --part1_168.c5bc5c7.29f19d11_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It is typical for citrus to not bear fruit until they have been in the ground for four to five years. The tree will no doubt drop all the fruit that you are seeing on the tree now. Excessive leaf drop is quite often caused by changes in weather conditions, also by inadequate irrigation. We have been in drought conditions for some time now so be sure your citrus gets plenty of water. Check out this site for info on irrigation: www.ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151 An excellent bulletin on citrus care is available for $1.00 from Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_168.c5bc5c7.29f19d11_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It is typical for citrus to not bear fruit until they have been in the ground for four to five years. The tree will no doubt drop all the fruit that you are seeing on the tree now. Excessive leaf drop is quite often caused by changes in weather conditions, also by inadequate irrigation. We have been in drought conditions for some time now so be sure your citrus gets plenty of water.
Check out this site for info on irrigation:
www.ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151
An excellent bulletin on citrus care is available for $1.00 from Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_168.c5bc5c7.29f19d11_boundary-- From Judy.Velazquez@aexp.com Fri Apr 19 18:44:31 2002 From: Judy.Velazquez@aexp.com (Judy.Velazquez@aexp.com) Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 11:44:31 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204191844.g3JIiQ319562@Ag.arizona.edu> Hibiscus care - My hibiscus leaves yellow and drop daily, despite adequate water, fertilizer, and soil amendment. What could be the problem? There doesn't appear to be any infestation (which probably wouldn't cause the leaves to yellow anyway). Please help! I have been trying to grow this hibiscus for 2 years now, and it's still only a scrawny 2 feet tall. From babycakes1942@yahoo.com Fri Apr 19 20:10:56 2002 From: babycakes1942@yahoo.com (babycakes1942@yahoo.com) Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 13:10:56 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204192010.g3JKAu307817@Ag.arizona.edu> How do you transplant tulips so they will grow in our climate? I live in Mesa. Thank You From racbvoll@cox.net Mon Apr 8 01:37:55 2002 From: racbvoll@cox.net (Charles B Voll) Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2002 18:37:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Annuals and Perennials Message-ID: <3FF11E2B-4A91-11D6-8851-000A27B35DB2@cox.net> In Avondale we would like to plant some perennial and annual flowering plants along a south facing north wall in a small back yard that receives no sun in the morning but full sun from about noon to six o'clock in the afternoon. Recommendations are appreciated. Charlie Voll From kyot@hotmail.com Sat Apr 20 05:42:43 2002 From: kyot@hotmail.com (kyot@hotmail.com) Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 22:42:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204200542.g3K5ghY18631@Ag.arizona.edu> I'm trying to grow grapes. They're doing really well, but help! They are sprawled all over the place! I've seen T-shaped supports on farms and trellises elsewhere. What's the best way to grow and support them? From terreaz@ol.com Sat Apr 20 05:55:28 2002 From: terreaz@ol.com (terreaz@ol.com) Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 22:55:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204200555.g3K5tSY19398@Ag.arizona.edu> My question is this: For Easter I purchased a container of forced tulip bulbs which bloomed magnificently....the most beautiful tulips I've ever seen. How do I preserve the bulbs and store for successive blooms? What steps do I need to take to make this happen. These tulips were exceptional. Please advise. thanks. From kieferguthrie@compuserve.com Sat Apr 20 18:44:22 2002 From: kieferguthrie@compuserve.com (kieferguthrie@compuserve.com) Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 11:44:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204201844.g3KIiMY19450@Ag.arizona.edu> Our favorite 8 yr. old Chilean mesquite tree has severe dieback this spring. Once it leafed out, we cut 1/3 off since most lower branches were dead. One cut on a major trunk is wet with seepage. This tree may be overwatered (it's on the same schedule as our other plants), but could the problem be something else? Should we call in an arborist? Are mesquites subject to fungus or viruses? From sjbass@qwest.net Sat Apr 20 20:43:51 2002 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 13:43:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Shelf life of seeds References: <20020420145906.90999.qmail@web20807.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3CC1D307.F9B4C2DB@qwest.net> Thanks for letting me know what happened with your seeds! It really must depend on a lot things. I gave some old seeds (packaged for 2000) for sunflowers to one of the Sunday School classes to plant out in our church's garden, not really caring if they took or not, and we got some huge sunflowers this spring from them. Happy Gardening! Sue Eugene Chieffo wrote: > We didn't get any crop from the old seeds. In any > event, I will be trying some experiments soon w/some > seeds - sprouting them - since I will have more time > in a month: retirement from working for a living. > > Thanks for your reply. I apologize for taking so long > to respond. > > Gene Chieffo > --- Sue Bass wrote: > > From what I have read, it all depends on the seed > > and where it has been stored. If they have been > > stored in a cool, dry place, > > they might be fine. Why not try planting them? > > Check out a similar question and responses at Garden > > Web > > > http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/seed/msg0821131527880.html > > Many people tell stories of planting some pretty old > > seeds and having them germinate. > > > > Sue Bass > > Master Gardener > > > > > > hoboen2001@yahoo.com wrote: > > > > > What is the expiration time, shelf life, of > > vegetable/flower seeds? I have some (a lot) that > > were packed in 1985. Thanks > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Games - play chess, backgammon, pool and more > http://games.yahoo.com/ From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Apr 20 22:34:46 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 18:34:46 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite Tree bleeding sap Message-ID: <12e.1026993d.29f34706@aol.com> --part1_12e.1026993d.29f34706_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit You seem to think that your mesquite tree may be over watered. I have to agree with you if the tree is being watered on the same circuit as shrubs and plants. Please advise how often, how long, and with how many drippers and their size that your mesquite is being watered. With this information I should be better able to advise you. It is normal for the mesquite to bleed sap after a saw cut. Mesquites are not susceptable to fungi and virus. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_12e.1026993d.29f34706_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit You seem to think that your mesquite tree may be over watered. I have to agree with you if the tree is being watered on the same circuit as shrubs and plants. Please advise how often, how long, and with how many drippers and their size that your mesquite is being watered. With this information I should be better able to advise you. It is normal for the mesquite to bleed sap after a saw cut.
Mesquites are not susceptable to fungi and virus.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_12e.1026993d.29f34706_boundary-- From bob@newdigate.phxcoxmail.com Sun Apr 21 03:18:47 2002 From: bob@newdigate.phxcoxmail.com (bob@newdigate.phxcoxmail.com) Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 20:18:47 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204210318.g3L3IlY06315@Ag.arizona.edu> can you grow babys breath outdoors in the phoenix area. From Seedfiendcc@aol.com Sun Apr 21 04:55:28 2002 From: Seedfiendcc@aol.com (Seedfiendcc@aol.com) Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 00:55:28 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <168.c6d4b78.29f3a040@aol.com> --part1_168.c6d4b78.29f3a040_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Baby's breath can be grown in the Phoenix area. It is considered one of our cool season annuals. Plant the seeds in improved garden soil, according to package instructions, in mid-September through October. Expect them to bloom from February through April--sometimes into May if the spring is mild. Best of luck. CCarlson --part1_168.c6d4b78.29f3a040_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Baby's breath can be grown in the Phoenix area. It is considered one of our cool season annuals. Plant the seeds in improved garden soil, according to package instructions, in mid-September through October. Expect them to bloom from February through April--sometimes into May if the spring is mild.

Best of luck.        CCarlson --part1_168.c6d4b78.29f3a040_boundary-- From PERFLOWERS@aol.com Sun Apr 21 06:01:24 2002 From: PERFLOWERS@aol.com (PERFLOWERS@aol.com) Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 02:01:24 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Baby's breath Message-ID: <1a2.108f456.29f3afb4@aol.com> Yes, baby's breath will grow here in the Phx area. I have both pink and white blooming now (or did till a few days ago). I think what I have is the annual type (if there is both annual and perennial varieties.) Val From jacqphx@earthlink.net Sun Apr 21 17:10:53 2002 From: jacqphx@earthlink.net (jacqphx@earthlink.net) Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 10:10:53 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204211710.g3LHArY10253@Ag.arizona.edu> Our zucchini plants look healthy and are getting blossoms, but the blossoms are drying up and fall off. They are not developing into fruit. Why? From Theresa.Conner@epg.army.mil Sun Apr 21 18:13:08 2002 From: Theresa.Conner@epg.army.mil (Theresa.Conner@epg.army.mil) Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 11:13:08 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204211813.g3LID8Y15333@Ag.arizona.edu> I purchased two plants from a company in Tucson, and all I have is the common name, but I would like to receive more information on them, but I can't find them on line anywhere. I want to know how to take good care of them. Maybe you can tell me where to look. 1)"String-of-Pearls" 2)"Gold Fish Plant" Both are said to be Brazilian Natives. Any help you can give will be appreciated. Theresa From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Apr 21 20:00:16 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 16:00:16 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Mesquite Tree bleeding sap Message-ID: --part1_ba.24b407fe.29f47450_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jeanne, Your mesquite tree is dying from thirst, yes the mesquite is a desert adapted tree, but when it is watered it should be deep watered. You stated that your mesquite is watered with two 1 gallon drippers placed at the trunk of the tree for 1 1/2 hours, this is barely enough to water for a small shrub. I'll guess that your mesquite has a crown that is at least 10 feet in diameter. For a tree that size 59 gallons of water is required to wet the root zone Six 2 gallon per hour drippers running for five hours and placed at the drip line of the tree would give you that amount of water. The roots of the tree are near the drip line, the drippers placed near the trunk are almost useless. For summer irrigation the mesquite will be very happy on irrigation intervals of 14 to 21 days. Now since you have every thing on a single circuit you have to apply water to the plant that requires the shortest interval. The best thing you could do would be to install a separate circuit for your trees. If you are unable to do that a one week summer interval would be adequate for almost any shrub that you have, there are many that will get by on 10 day intervals. I hope you have not cut off branches needlessly, I live in Mesa and I have several mesquites that haven't leafed out yet, you are at a higher elevation in Cave Creek so your trees would be later to leaf out than mine. Without leaves they do look dead. I would suggest that you change to watering once per week with an increased number of drippers, be sure to watch for signs of wilting until your plants and trees accustom themselves to adequate water. For further info check out these websites: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://www.amwua.org/xscp-wateringschedules.htm AMWUA of the above website have an excellent free bulletin titlled " Landscape Watering By the Numbers", their phone number is 602 248 8482 Good luck. Rod --part1_ba.24b407fe.29f47450_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jeanne,

Your mesquite tree is dying from thirst, yes the mesquite is a desert adapted tree, but when it is watered it should be deep watered. You stated that your mesquite is watered with two 1 gallon drippers placed at the trunk of the tree for 1 1/2 hours, this is barely enough to water for a small shrub. I'll guess that your mesquite has a crown that is at least 10 feet in diameter. For a tree that size 59 gallons of water is required to wet the root zone Six 2 gallon per hour drippers running for five hours and placed at the drip line of the tree would give you that amount of water. The roots of the tree are near the drip line, the drippers placed near the trunk are almost useless. For summer irrigation the mesquite will be very happy on irrigation intervals of 14 to 21 days. Now since you have every thing on a single circuit you have to apply water to the plant that requires the shortest interval. The best thing you could do would be to install a separate circuit for your trees. If you are unable to do that a one week summer interval would be adequate for almost any shrub that you have, there are many that will get by on 10 day intervals.
I hope you have not cut off branches needlessly, I live in Mesa and I have several mesquites that haven't leafed out yet, you are at a higher elevation in Cave Creek so your trees would be later to leaf out than mine. Without leaves they do look dead.
I would suggest that you change to watering once per week with an increased number of drippers, be sure to watch for signs of wilting until your plants and trees accustom themselves to adequate water.
For further info check out these websites:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html
http://www.amwua.org/xscp-wateringschedules.htm
AMWUA of the above website have an excellent free bulletin titlled " Landscape Watering By the Numbers", their phone number is 602 248 8482

Good luck.

Rod --part1_ba.24b407fe.29f47450_boundary-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Apr 21 20:44:18 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 20:44:18 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plant ID Message-ID: Hi, Theresa I checked out my houseplants book and the web: 1) "String-of-pearls" is probably Senecio rowleyanus (Compositae family) http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/interiorscape/seneciorow.html 2) "Goldfish Plant" is probably one of the Columnea (Gesneriaceae family) http://www.augustflorist.com/advice/columnea_goldfish.htm Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Theresa.Conner@epg.army.mil >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 11:13:08 -0700 (MST) > >I purchased two plants from a company in Tucson, and all I have is the >common name, but I would like to receive more information on them, but I >can't find them on line anywhere. I want to know how to take good care of >them. Maybe you can tell me where to look. 1)"String-of-Pearls" 2)"Gold >Fish Plant" Both are said to be Brazilian Natives. Any help you can give >will be appreciated. > >Theresa > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Join the world�s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From DollyEmmett@aol.com Sun Apr 21 22:26:19 2002 From: DollyEmmett@aol.com (DollyEmmett@aol.com) Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 15:26:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204212226.g3LMQJY08097@Ag.arizona.edu> When should I feed grapevines and peaches? From gdtym@msn.com Sun Apr 21 23:14:52 2002 From: gdtym@msn.com (gdtym@msn.com) Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 16:14:52 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204212314.g3LNEqY12618@Ag.arizona.edu> Can I grow hosta's in Peoria, AZ. They would be planted on the east side of the house where they only get morning sun (house next door is a two-story and blocks afternoon sun). From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Apr 21 23:51:39 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 23:51:39 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Zucchini, not setting fruit Message-ID: It is possible the female flowers are not being pollinated. Do you see insects visiting the flowers? >From: jacqphx@earthlink.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 10:10:53 -0700 (MST) > >Our zucchini plants look healthy and are getting blossoms, but the blossoms >are drying up and fall off. They are not developing into fruit. Why? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Join the world�s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From sadiesmom@earthlink.net Mon Apr 22 00:06:09 2002 From: sadiesmom@earthlink.net (sadiesmom@earthlink.net) Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 17:06:09 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204220006.g3M069Y17597@Ag.arizona.edu> I have some very tall Italian Cypress trees. When do I trim them, how often. Can I cut them down to about 5 ft. without damanging them? Should they be tied up? they seem to be falling apart. From watsontl@mindspring.com Mon Apr 22 02:15:05 2002 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 19:15:05 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200204211710.g3LHArY10253@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <003f01c1e9a3$859107a0$994bb83f@oemcomputer> You probably have female blossoms opening first. This happens to my zucchini every year, and to some of my cucumbers, acorn squash, watermelons, etc. It's a common situation with any vegetable in the family Cucurbitaceae. Female flowers will have what looks like a tiny fruit of the plant in question, but without being fertilized the flower shrivels and falls off, and soon the small fruit drops away as well. Male flowers, when they appear, will have no miniature fruit attached. I don't why there is a time lag between male and female flowers, but it has never been a big problem for me. Hang in there and the plants will soon be productive. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, April 21, 2002 10:10 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Our zucchini plants look healthy and are getting blossoms, but the blossoms are drying up and fall off. They are not developing into fruit. Why? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lazcow@yahoo.com Mon Apr 22 03:22:18 2002 From: lazcow@yahoo.com (lori zimmerman) Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 20:22:18 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] corn Message-ID: <20020422032218.35347.qmail@web14809.mail.yahoo.com> To those who have given me information about growing sweet corn, thanks. My corn is now 7 to 20 inches tall, probably averaging about 16 inches. It looks pretty good, though I think at the last watering I may have over watered it. It got a little yellowish looking. I think it is starting to green back up as the bed is drying out. My latest question is about some of the larger stalks sending out shoots from the base of the stalk. Is this normal, and should I leave them on or cut them off? I spaced the plants at about 13 inches, and I was going to have squash in between the stalks, but the cutworms and/or birds pretty much took care of them, so that is no longer a concern. Any information would be appreciated. Thanks. Lori __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Games - play chess, backgammon, pool and more http://games.yahoo.com/ From AFergXXX@aol.com Mon Apr 22 03:50:51 2002 From: AFergXXX@aol.com (AFergXXX@aol.com) Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 20:50:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204220350.g3M3opY12675@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a 10 year old grapefruit tree that has been producing a great harvest of fruit for years. Last year, there was only a half dozen grapefruit, and this year, all the blossoms fell off and there are no new fruit. Is the tree just old and needs replacing? From sjbass@qwest.net Mon Apr 22 04:20:38 2002 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 21:20:38 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hibiscus leaves yellowing References: <200204191844.g3JIiQ319562@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3CC38F96.78D09FAA@qwest.net> Yellow leaves can be a sign of overwatering? How often are you watering? What sort of light is the shrub getting? They also drop old leaves, which turn yellow. The following link will take you to a "Q&A" page for Hibiscus Care. The information may be helpful to you. http://trop-hibiscus.com/q.a.html Sue Bass Judy.Velazquez@aexp.com wrote: > Hibiscus care - My hibiscus leaves yellow and drop daily, despite adequate water, fertilizer, and soil amendment. What could be the problem? There doesn't appear to be any infestation (which probably wouldn't cause the leaves to yellow anyway). Please help! I have been trying to grow this hibiscus for 2 years now, and it's still only a scrawny 2 feet tall. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From millero@worldnet.att.net Mon Apr 22 06:13:44 2002 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 23:13:44 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] corn References: <20020422032218.35347.qmail@web14809.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <003d01c1e9cb$68871280$a150530c@j0r9501> The side shoots are usually called suckers used to be removed but recent studies suggest the suckers may actually strengthen the plant. I have tried it both ways over the years and can't really say it made a difference. Why not experiment and remove the suckers from every other plant to see if it makes a difference for you. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "lori zimmerman" >...question is about > some of the larger stalks sending out shoots from the > base of the stalk. Is this normal, and should I leave > them on or cut them off? ... >.. From millero@worldnet.att.net Mon Apr 22 06:49:33 2002 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2002 23:49:33 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Grapefruit Tree Blossoms Dropping References: <200204220350.g3M3opY12675@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <003e01c1e9cb$690d5980$a150530c@j0r9501> My grape fruit tree was also very productive for a number of years, then seemed to decline for a few years. I believe an occasional unproductive year is normal and if the tree is healthy otherwise, I wouldn't be concerned about it. A problem I once had was that loss of water from the basin through gopher tunnels was stressing the tree. Something you might check. It was pretty difficult to plug the holes so I finally ran a 1/2 inch drip line around the trees at the edge of the canopy. The dripline has 0.6 gph emitters spaced at 1 foot which works out to about 34 gallons per hour for a mature tree with an 18 foot diameter canopy. All of the water soaks in with no puddling or runoff. This year the tangelo, tangerine and orange trees had lots of blossoms and good fruit set but the grapefruit tree and the usually incredibly productive lemon tree had very few blossoms but the trees appear to be healthy so I am not worried about it. My citrus trees have been in the ground for about 19 years. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > I have a 10 year old grapefruit tree that has been producing a great harvest of fruit for years. Last year, there was only a half dozen grapefruit, and this year, all the blossoms fell off and there are no new fruit. > Is the tree just old and needs replacing? From millero@worldnet.att.net Mon Apr 22 07:00:17 2002 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 00:00:17 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Zucchini Blossoms Dropping References: <200204211710.g3LHArY10253@Ag.arizona.edu> <003f01c1e9a3$859107a0$994bb83f@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <003f01c1e9cb$6993a080$a150530c@j0r9501> ----- Original Message ----- From: > Our zucchini plants look healthy and are getting blossoms, but the > blossoms are drying up and fall off. They are not developing into fruit. > Why? Sometimes when we have unusual weather conditions, the male blossoms, which usually appear first, will be spent before the female blossoms appear and will therefore will not pollinate. You can save the pollen by collecting the male blossoms and storing in a refrigerator for several days, then hand pollinate when the female blossoms open. It is important that the hand pollination be done while the blossoms are fresh. Another possibility, if it's the female blossoms dropping, it may be due to lack of pollination due to a low honeybee population. In either case, you also need to hand pollinate when the female blossoms open up. Olin From Seedfiendcc@aol.com Mon Apr 22 15:55:20 2002 From: Seedfiendcc@aol.com (Seedfiendcc@aol.com) Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 11:55:20 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Merremia aurea seeds Message-ID: <11a.fc344dc.29f58c68@aol.com> --part1_11a.fc344dc.29f58c68_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Does anyone out there have "Merremia aurea" seeds that they would be willing to sell? Thanks. CCarlson --part1_11a.fc344dc.29f58c68_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Does anyone out there have "Merremia aurea" seeds that they would be willing to sell? Thanks.            CCarlson --part1_11a.fc344dc.29f58c68_boundary-- From Beam59@JUNO.com Mon Apr 22 17:23:27 2002 From: Beam59@JUNO.com (Beam59@JUNO.com) Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 10:23:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204221723.g3MHNRY21278@Ag.arizona.edu> What is the recommended pollen-free grass for the Tempe area? From sjefferds@earthlink.net Mon Apr 22 18:52:23 2002 From: sjefferds@earthlink.net (sjefferds@earthlink.net) Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 11:52:23 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204221852.g3MIqNY12136@Ag.arizona.edu> Whay is meant by the expression, "infrequent and deep watering"? I garden in a small 10' x 60' area on the West side of my house in East Mesa. I use black soaker hose, half above ground, half below, a timer and am trying to decide if 90 minutes two times a week is too much. I run a single 3/4" line to the timer, timer into a 2-way splitter, left branch 50' long. Right branch splits again, left branch 75', right branch 30'. There doesn't happen to be something where a more experienced gardener can come look at my garden and offer advice is there? Shawn From GoneTwoPot@aol.com Mon Apr 22 19:19:06 2002 From: GoneTwoPot@aol.com (GoneTwoPot@aol.com) Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 15:19:06 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] wanting castor beans Message-ID: <134.d2bd02a.29f5bc2a@aol.com> Greetings Sir: I'm in need of castor beans to plant in my flower and vegetable garden. I live in the woods and the voles, moles, and other varmints eat all my lovelies from underground. Can you help me find a place to buy them? Please contact: Nancy L. Rogers GoneTwoPot@aol.com From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Apr 22 22:25:41 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 18:25:41 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pollen free turf Message-ID: <50.a54e3ba.29f5e7e5@aol.com> --part1_50.a54e3ba.29f5e7e5_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit All of the hybrid bermudas grasses are considered pollen free. These include Midiron, Tifway, Tifway II, Tifgreen and Santa Ana. Since they do not produce seed, the turf must be started from sod, sprigging or plugging. An excellent bulletin describing the Hybrid Bermuda grasses is available for $1.00 from Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_50.a54e3ba.29f5e7e5_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit All of the hybrid bermudas grasses are considered pollen free. These include Midiron, Tifway, Tifway II, Tifgreen and Santa Ana. Since they do not produce seed, the turf must be started from sod, sprigging or plugging.
An excellent bulletin describing the Hybrid Bermuda grasses is available for $1.00 from Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener

--part1_50.a54e3ba.29f5e7e5_boundary-- From copper@bargainsail.com Mon Apr 22 23:17:12 2002 From: copper@bargainsail.com (Copper Bittner) Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 16:17:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pollen free turf In-Reply-To: <50.a54e3ba.29f5e7e5@aol.com> Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0090_01C1EA19.2925A720 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I'd like to add that the county extension has these grasses growing for view at the extension office at 4341 E Broadway. It's a good way to see what they look like. Copper Bittner MG Chandler -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of RodMcQ6@aol.com Sent: Monday, April 22, 2002 3:26 PM To: Beam59@JUNO.com Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pollen free turf All of the hybrid bermudas grasses are considered pollen free. These include Midiron, Tifway, Tifway II, Tifgreen and Santa Ana. Since they do not produce seed, the turf must be started from sod, sprigging or plugging. An excellent bulletin describing the Hybrid Bermuda grasses is available for $1.00 from Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ------=_NextPart_000_0090_01C1EA19.2925A720 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I'd=20 like to add that the county extension has these grasses growing for view = at the=20 extension office at 4341 E Broadway. It's a good way to see what = they look=20 like.

Copper=20 Bittner

Chandler

-----Original Message-----
From:=20 arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu=20 [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of=20 RodMcQ6@aol.com
Sent: Monday, April 22, 2002 3:26=20 PM
To: Beam59@JUNO.com
Cc:=20 arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pollen = free=20 turf

All of the=20 hybrid bermudas grasses are considered pollen free. These include = Midiron,=20 Tifway, Tifway II, Tifgreen and Santa Ana. Since they do not produce = seed, the=20 turf must be started from sod, sprigging or plugging.
An excellent = bulletin describing the Hybrid Bermuda grasses is available for $1.00 = from=20 Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix = 85040.=20

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener=20

------=_NextPart_000_0090_01C1EA19.2925A720-- From molly124@msn.com Tue Apr 23 00:33:47 2002 From: molly124@msn.com (molly124@msn.com) Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 17:33:47 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204230033.g3N0XlY28001@Ag.arizona.edu> My husband has a well on our Ash tree that measures about 7'x 7' circular circumference and 6" deep. He is continually digging out the depth and exposing the roots? Will having the roots exposed do damage to the tree? Thank you for you information. From watsontl@mindspring.com Tue Apr 23 01:44:38 2002 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 18:44:38 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] corn References: <20020422032218.35347.qmail@web14809.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000601c1ea68$6f994aa0$304eb83f@oemcomputer> Over watering can reduce the amount of oxygen in the soil, and that means the roots can't "breath," so to speak. Roots in that condition aren't very good at taking up nutrients, especially nitrogen, which could explain the yellowing. The side shoots are called tillers (and what the corn is doing is known as tillering). Another name commonly applied is "sucker." It's normal. I've heard of people cutting them off, but I've never bothered. Most gardeners I know who grow sweet corn leave them in place on the theory that they help improve the sugar content of the corn. The jury is still out on that, last I heard. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "lori zimmerman" To: Sent: Sunday, April 21, 2002 8:22 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] corn > To those who have given me information about growing > sweet corn, thanks. My corn is now 7 to 20 inches > tall, probably averaging about 16 inches. It looks > pretty good, though I think at the last watering I may > have over watered it. It got a little yellowish > looking. I think it is starting to green back up as > the bed is drying out. My latest question is about > some of the larger stalks sending out shoots from the > base of the stalk. Is this normal, and should I leave > them on or cut them off? I spaced the plants at about > 13 inches, and I was going to have squash in between > the stalks, but the cutworms and/or birds pretty much > took care of them, so that is no longer a concern. > Any information would be appreciated. Thanks. Lori > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Games - play chess, backgammon, pool and more > http://games.yahoo.com/ > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Tue Apr 23 01:42:22 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 18:42:22 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] watering In-Reply-To: <200204221852.g3MIqNY12136@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20020423014222.40885.qmail@web14901.mail.yahoo.com> Infrequent means not 2-3 times a week and deep means to a depth of 2-3 feet depending on the type of plants. Your soaker hose is putting out water at a very low rate and should be run for 4-6 hours to get water down deep enough for the roots. Again depending on the plants, it should be run for 4-6 hours as soaker hose seeps water to the ground very slowly.It would be a big help to know what type of plants are on the system. --- sjefferds@earthlink.net wrote: > Whay is meant by the expression, "infrequent and > deep watering"? I garden in a small 10' x 60' area > on the West side of my house in East Mesa. I use > black soaker hose, half above ground, half below, a > timer and am trying to decide if 90 minutes two > times a week is too much. > > I run a single 3/4" line to the timer, timer into a > 2-way splitter, left branch 50' long. Right branch > splits again, left branch 75', right branch 30'. > > There doesn't happen to be something where a more > experienced gardener can come look at my garden and > offer advice is there? > > Shawn > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Games - play chess, backgammon, pool and more http://games.yahoo.com/ From watsontl@mindspring.com Tue Apr 23 01:46:18 2002 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 18:46:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hibiscus leaves yellowing References: <200204191844.g3JIiQ319562@Ag.arizona.edu> <3CC38F96.78D09FAA@qwest.net> Message-ID: <000d01c1ea68$ab0def00$304eb83f@oemcomputer> Are the leaves turning yellow evenly, or do the veins stay green until the end? Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sue Bass" To: Cc: Sent: Sunday, April 21, 2002 9:20 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hibiscus leaves yellowing > Yellow leaves can be a sign of overwatering? How often are you watering? What sort of light is the shrub getting? They also drop old leaves, which turn yellow. The following link will take you to a "Q&A" page for Hibiscus Care. The information may be helpful to you. http://trop-hibiscus.com/q.a.html > Sue Bass > > Judy.Velazquez@aexp.com wrote: > > > Hibiscus care - My hibiscus leaves yellow and drop daily, despite adequate water, fertilizer, and soil amendment. What could be the problem? There doesn't appear to be any infestation (which probably wouldn't cause the leaves to yellow anyway). Please help! I have been trying to grow this hibiscus for 2 years now, and it's still only a scrawny 2 feet tall. > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From ARISH1@aol.com Tue Apr 23 02:54:19 2002 From: ARISH1@aol.com (ARISH1@aol.com) Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 19:54:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204230254.g3N2sJY14915@Ag.arizona.edu> Carnations are my favorite. I grew a few minature plants a few years ago and they did okay. Any ideas on the taller ones here? From doug85029@aol.com Tue Apr 23 04:28:25 2002 From: doug85029@aol.com (doug85029@aol.com) Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 21:28:25 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204230428.g3N4SPY29701@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a St Anna lawn that is overseeded with rye in the winter. It seems to take forever for the St Anna to get started once the weather warms. My backyard Bermuda lawn is doing great but the St Anna looks dead. Last year it took a couple months until the turf looked good. Was the St Anna a bad idea by my landscaper? Anything I can do to get it started? Doug From KLH718@aol.com Tue Apr 23 13:46:22 2002 From: KLH718@aol.com (KLH718@aol.com) Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 09:46:22 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] roses Message-ID: <187.6ea492a.29f6bfae@aol.com> --part1_187.6ea492a.29f6bfae_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The other day I received 3 doz. cut, commercial roses (anniversary - isn't he wonderful?). Now several of them have new growth \ shoots on their stems. Can these somehow be "captured" so I can grow anniversary roses in my own garden?!? Thanks, Karen --part1_187.6ea492a.29f6bfae_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The other day I received 3 doz. cut, commercial roses (anniversary - isn't he wonderful?). Now several of them have new growth \ shoots on their stems. Can these somehow be "captured" so I can grow anniversary roses in my own garden?!?

Thanks,
Karen --part1_187.6ea492a.29f6bfae_boundary-- From donlloyd2@msn.com Tue Apr 23 14:04:32 2002 From: donlloyd2@msn.com (donlloyd2@msn.com) Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 07:04:32 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204231404.g3NE4WY26256@Ag.arizona.edu> I need info about artichokes. How much sun, water,compost,in pots, in the ground,fertilizing, etc... I have six plants and, because they are perenial, I am trying to decide where they are to go, and what they need to prosper. Do they only produce one artichoke a year? None of this info is addressed at the master gardener website. Thanks Don Lloyd From mgdlite37d@aol.com Tue Apr 23 14:43:54 2002 From: mgdlite37d@aol.com (mgdlite37d@aol.com) Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 07:43:54 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204231443.g3NEhsY01721@Ag.arizona.edu> Hi, Would like to know where I can purchase Santa seed to over seed my lawn. I had overseeded sod put in from Western Sod company about a year ago, but the Sants Anna grass did not do well. The rye grass came up beautiful. The Sod company gave me a lot of garbel about watering. Ihave been in arizona for thirty years and have grown many lawns from Tiff to bermuda and never had a problem. Iknow the seed is available but apperentaly people do not want to sell it. Sanata Anna hadto start from seed some where along the way. Iknow I did I sure didn't start life form a peice of Sod. Would appreicate some info to purchase some of the seed I asked for(Santa Anna) Thanks Sal Cannizzo From cenalmor@yahoo.com Tue Apr 23 15:18:25 2002 From: cenalmor@yahoo.com (Barbara Cenalmor) Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 08:18:25 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Artichokes In-Reply-To: <200204231404.g3NE4WY26256@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20020423151825.56249.qmail@web14706.mail.yahoo.com> --0-876810748-1019575105=:55688 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii You can purchase a publication for $1 from the Cooperative Extension about Globe and Jerusalem Artichokes (MC56). This publication is very helpful. Also, Attached see a previous answer to a similar question: http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/arid_gardener/2630.html I have one artichoke plant at home, it gets full sun pretty much all day. In the past it didn't have very good irrigation, and I didn't get good crops from it, plus it kept on getting infested by aphids. But since I put it on my irrigation system, it's done great. In this year's crop, which is still going, I've already got 13 artichokes out of that one plant. And that's withoug fertilizing it at all. Good luck! Barbara Cenalmor (Master Gardener) donlloyd2@msn.com wrote: I need info about artichokes. How much sun, water,compost,in pots, in the ground,fertilizing, etc... I have six plants and, because they are perenial, I am trying to decide where they are to go, and what they need to prosper. Do they only produce one artichoke a year? None of this info is addressed at the master gardener website. Thanks Don Lloyd _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener --------------------------------- Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Games - play chess, backgammon, pool and more --0-876810748-1019575105=:55688 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

You can purchase a publication for $1 from the Cooperative Extension about Globe and Jerusalem Artichokes (MC56). This publication is very helpful. Also, Attached see a previous answer to a similar question:

http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/arid_gardener/2630.html

I have one artichoke plant at home, it gets full sun pretty much all day. In the past it didn't have very good irrigation, and I didn't get good crops from it, plus it kept on getting infested by aphids. But since I put it on my irrigation system, it's done great. In this year's crop, which is still going, I've already got 13 artichokes out of that one plant. And that's withoug fertilizing it at all.

Good luck!

Barbara Cenalmor (Master Gardener)

donlloyd2@msn.com wrote:

I need info about artichokes. How much sun, water,compost,in pots, in the ground,fertilizing, etc... I have six plants and, because they are perenial, I am trying to decide where they are to go, and what they need to prosper. Do they only produce one artichoke a year? None of this info is addressed at the master gardener website.
Thanks
Don Lloyd

_______________________________________________
Arid_gardener mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener

Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Games - play chess, backgammon, pool and more --0-876810748-1019575105=:55688-- From rcdemark@aqol.com Tue Apr 23 15:51:45 2002 From: rcdemark@aqol.com (rcdemark@aqol.com) Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 08:51:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204231551.g3NFpjY16169@Ag.arizona.edu> When should I feed my Queen Palms? How much. One of my palms has the leaves that are lite green. Nothing I do seems to get to a dark shade of green like the rest of them. From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue Apr 23 16:31:58 2002 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 09:31:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Santa Ana Bermudagrass References: <200204231443.g3NEhsY01721@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <003801c1eae4$6599b5e0$2f52530c@j0r9501> There are several varieties of seeded bermudagrasses. Santa Ana is not one of them. Sahara is one example of seeded Bermuda that is drought tolerant and denser and lower growing than common Bermuda. If you can't find suitable seeded bermudagrasses locally, try a web search or look at www.bermudagrass.com. Santa Ana is a vigorous, sterile berbudagrass hybrid. If you really have Santa Ana, it should be greening up now Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > Would like to know where I can purchase Santa seed to over seed my lawn. I had overseeded sod put in from Western Sod company about a year ago, but the Sants Anna grass did not do well. The rye grass came up beautiful. The Sod company gave me a lot of garbel about watering. Ihave been in arizona for thirty years and have grown many lawns from Tiff to bermuda and never had a problem. > > Iknow the seed is available but apperentaly people do not want to sell it. Sanata Anna hadto start from seed some where along the way. Iknow I did I sure didn't start life form a peice of Sod. > Would appreicate some info to purchase some of the seed I asked for(Santa Anna) From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue Apr 23 17:02:07 2002 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 10:02:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Planting Artichokes References: <200204231404.g3NE4WY26256@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000001c1eaea$662174c0$5e50530c@j0r9501> ----- Original Message ----From: > I need info about artichokes. How much sun, water,compost,in pots, in the ground,fertilizing, etc... I have six plants and, because they are perenial, I am trying to decide where they are to go, and what they need to prosper. Do they only produce one artichoke a year? None of this info is addressed at the master gardener website. I assume you are referring to either Globe or Imperial Star artichokes, not Jerusalem artichokes which are a type of sunflower with tuberous roots. It's a bit late for transplanting because the plants begin to decline in late May and may go dormant in June due to the hot weather. Late fall (October) transplanting also works well. Full sun is good in late fall through spring but the season can be extended a bit by providing afternoon shade beginning about right now. There are no special soil preparations required other than the normal garden soil preparations (compost, sulfur,etc.). The plants respond well to nitrogen fertilizer. Although the plants are perennial, vigor seems to decline after the first two years. Irrigation needs are pretty high. We have ours on the same drip system as the tomatoes but we need to water the chokes at least twice as much as the tomatoes. Be aware that each plant of the green globe type needs a space 3 - 4 feet dia so 6 plants will take up lots of space. Imperial Star is a smaller plant. We have 2 green globe plants transplanted last October. One plant has yielded 9 chokes so far, including 2 small buds which may not get very large because growth has slowed considerably. The second has only 7 chokes total so far. Imperial Star, which was developed to be grown as an annual in cooler climates, has been less productive for us - 1 choke per plant was typical. When the plants go dormant in the summer, cover with an organic mulch and keep the roots from drying out but not too wet. Olin From christine.cape@susd.k12.az.us Tue Apr 23 20:59:56 2002 From: christine.cape@susd.k12.az.us (christine.cape@susd.k12.az.us) Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 13:59:56 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204232059.g3NKxtY25906@Ag.arizona.edu> Last June, I was on vacation in San Diego and Phoenix and noticed a very fragrant bush with white flowers growing at many motels and public locations. What was this plant? From staneissinger@usa.net Tue Apr 23 23:24:23 2002 From: staneissinger@usa.net (Stan Eissinger) Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 19:24:23 -0400 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Flea beetles Message-ID: <20020423232423.15662.qmail@uadvg137.cms.usa.net> Does anyone know of an organic solution to the flea beetles that devastate my mexican evening primrose each spring? Thanks From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Wed Apr 24 02:23:35 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 19:23:35 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] tiff seed In-Reply-To: <200204231443.g3NEhsY01721@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20020424022335.42018.qmail@web14905.mail.yahoo.com> Santa Anna, like all tiff and or hybred bermudas are sterile. They form seed heads but no seed. Thats why they cause no allergies.You can only get it as sod or stolens. --- mgdlite37d@aol.com wrote: > Hi, > > Would like to know where I can purchase Santa seed > to over seed my lawn. I had overseeded sod put in > from Western Sod company about a year ago, but the > Sants Anna grass did not do well. The rye grass came > up beautiful. The Sod company gave me a lot of > garbel about watering. Ihave been in arizona for > thirty years and have grown many lawns from Tiff to > bermuda and never had a problem. > > Iknow the seed is available but apperentaly people > do not want to sell it. Sanata Anna hadto start from > seed some where along the way. Iknow I did I sure > didn't start life form a peice of Sod. > > Would appreicate some info to purchase some of the > seed I asked for(Santa Anna) > > Thanks Sal Cannizzo > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Games - play chess, backgammon, pool and more http://games.yahoo.com/ From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Apr 24 02:43:23 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 22:43:23 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] roses Message-ID: <12b.103304d8.29f775cb@aol.com> --part1_12b.103304d8.29f775cb_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Karen, Most florists roses are greenhouse grown and are not suiutable for planting outdoors especially in our climate here in the low desert. However the rose developers have started crossing the greenhouse roses with those that are grown outdoors and in the future we may see some of them available for sale. It is possible to start roses from cuttings which are taken from a long stemmed rose however this is not the time of year to be sucessful. The Master Gardener Manual has a chapter on plant propagation with a section titled Asectual Propagation which details how to start plants from cuttings and available on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian --part1_12b.103304d8.29f775cb_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Karen,

Most florists roses are greenhouse grown and are not suiutable for planting outdoors especially in our climate here in the low desert. However the rose developers have started crossing the greenhouse roses with those that are grown outdoors and in the future we may see some of them available for sale. It is possible to start roses from cuttings which are taken from a long stemmed rose however this is not the time of year to be sucessful.
The Master Gardener Manual has a chapter on plant propagation with a section titled Asectual Propagation which details how to start plants from cuttings and available on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/index.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian --part1_12b.103304d8.29f775cb_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Apr 24 02:43:24 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 22:43:24 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Shrub with white fragrant flowers Message-ID: <38.26d707cd.29f775cc@aol.com> --part1_38.26d707cd.29f775cc_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Natal Plum ( Carissa grandiflora ) has white fragrant flowers and is quite common in the Phoenix area. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_38.26d707cd.29f775cc_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Natal Plum ( Carissa grandiflora ) has white fragrant flowers and is quite common in the Phoenix area.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_38.26d707cd.29f775cc_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Apr 24 03:36:43 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 23:36:43 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tree Roots Exposed Message-ID: <12c.10617f0c.29f7824b@aol.com> --part1_12c.10617f0c.29f7824b_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Any time tree roots are exposed damage is done to the tree. A better course of action would be to fill the basin around the tree with mulch to help the roots stay cooler in the summer. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on Arborculture at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_12c.10617f0c.29f7824b_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Any time tree roots are exposed damage is done to the tree. A better course of action would be to fill the basin around the tree with mulch to help the roots stay cooler in the summer.
Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on Arborculture at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/index.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist

--part1_12c.10617f0c.29f7824b_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Apr 24 03:36:42 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 23:36:42 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palm Tree fertilizer Message-ID: --part1_d5.1676222e.29f7824a_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Palm trees and especially queen palms require a special palm fertilizer applied three to four times a year. The yellowing of the leaves is very likely due to lack of nutrition. It will take several months after fertilizing before you begin to see a difference. Check out this site for info on palm care: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_d5.1676222e.29f7824a_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Palm trees and especially queen palms require a special palm fertilizer applied three to four times a year. The yellowing of the leaves is very likely due to lack of nutrition. It will take several months after fertilizing before you begin to see a difference.
Check out this site for info on palm care: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_d5.1676222e.29f7824a_boundary-- From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr 24 11:59:40 2002 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 04:59:40 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: santa ana References: <3e.1d22bcae.29f7186d@aol.com> Message-ID: <000e01c1eb87$d4fc4760$0653530c@j0r9501> ----- Original Message ----- From: > Hi Olin, > Sal here again. If Santa Ana grass is a vigorous sterile Bermuda grass then > how did this so called Santa Ana grass come about? Was it evolution, the big > BANG or what? I was told by a grass pro that seed does exist but the sod > growers make more money selling sod which makes more sense. But thanks for > your time anyway. > Sal Cannizzo Try a local company like Western Sos where you will get a straight answer. Also tell them about the advice you received from your "professional". -Olin From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr 24 16:03:14 2002 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 09:03:14 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Shrub with white fragrant flowers References: <38.26d707cd.29f775cc@aol.com> Message-ID: <005e01c1ebb1$69768bc0$b752530c@j0r9501> We have a natal plum bush that has had one or two blossoms each year for quite a few years. This year, for the first time, it is literally covered with blossoms. The prostrate natal plums are still plugging along with only a few blossoms again this year. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > Natal Plum ( Carissa grandiflora ) has white fragrant flowers and is quite > common in the Phoenix area. From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr 24 16:24:50 2002 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 09:24:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200204230428.g3N4SPY29701@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <005f01c1ebb1$69fcd2c0$b752530c@j0r9501> Santa Ana, if not overseeded, is one of the last of the bermudagrass hybrids to go dormant in the early winter and the earliest to green up in the spring. I suspect the ryegrass is competing with the Santa the for water and nutrients. Also , if not all of the ryegrass seed germinated last fall, it may be germinating now and growing faster than the Santa Ana. In our area (Northwest Valley) established Santa Ana turf died back completely this winter because of the cooler weather. With light irrigation, Santa Ana that was not overseeded has been greening up for nearly a month and I have mowed our Santa Ana lawn twice already this month. In the previous 3 years with the milder winter weather, it never completely died back but went dormant and stayed somewhat green all winter. So I believe if you mow the ryegrass a little shorter and are patient the Santa Ana will take over again as the weather warms. If you don't mind not having to mow the lawn for a few months in the wintertime, I would suggest you try not overseeding for at least one winter to see if that works for you. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > I have a St Anna lawn that is overseeded with rye in the winter. It seems to take forever for the St Anna to get started once the weather warms. My backyard Bermuda lawn is doing great but the St Anna looks dead. Last year it took a couple months until the turf looked good. Was the St Anna a bad idea by my landscaper? Anything I can do to get it started? From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr 24 17:05:00 2002 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 10:05:00 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Planting Artichokes Message-ID: <000d01c1ebb2$6bb4c680$b752530c@j0r9501> I also neglected to mention that my frame of reference is the AZ low desert. Therefore, the comments may not apply directly to your situation. I would suggest you submit your questions as you did before so that subscribers to the Arid Gardener Listserv can also read the questions and replies and participate in the discussion. You can also subscribe to the list. See http://ag.arizona.edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener for information on how to subscribe. The NM Cooperative Extension Service has a number of publications on various gardening topics on line in Portable Data Format that may be more appropriate to your area. See http://cahe.nmsu.edu/pubs/_h/ In addition to the low desert gardening information at http://cahe.nmsu.edu/pubs/_h/ There are also excellent intermediate desert gardening sites at http://ag.arizona.edu/yavapai/anr/hort/byg/ http://ag.arizona.edu/cochise/mg/desertgardening.htm http://www.unce.unr.edu/pubs.html ----- Original Message ----- From: "Don Lloyd" >To: "olin" >Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2002 4:55 PM >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Planting Artichokes >Olin >Thanks so much for the information. I'm going to save your e-mail address in case I have anymore questions about southwestern horticulture. By the way >we live in Anthony NM. >Thanks again, >Don Lloyd From anomaly@inficad.com Wed Apr 24 17:06:02 2002 From: anomaly@inficad.com (anomaly@inficad.com) Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 10:06:02 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204241706.g3OH62Y17507@Ag.arizona.edu> Can you recommend a sod that will grow in the St. Johns area? From df.alston@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr 24 18:17:18 2002 From: df.alston@worldnet.att.net (df.alston@worldnet.att.net) Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 11:17:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204241817.g3OIHHY04773@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a garden bed with flowers, 18" cooldeck separates it from the pool, and it is 32 feet long and 2 feet deep. The bed has a southern exposure with mature oleanders hanging over the block wall that the flower garden is in front of, so the flowers don't get full sun. I just noticed that 1/2 of the nasturtium and blue salvia leaves are curling. I also noticed that the tips on some of the yellow lantana leaves are dark almost black.Some of the other leaves on other flowers,also seem to have curling or drying leaves. This part of the flower bed gets less sun than the other part. My question is, do you think it is a fungus from too much water( there is a drip that goes on every other day, but it doesn't seem too wet in there), would oleander leaves do harm to the plants or soil, since they are falling into the bed? Could the chlorine from shocking the pool drift airborne to the flowerbed via a breeze, cause these symptoms? I had this beautiful thick lush mixture of flowers and now they seem to be sick! Help!! Also, what are the little brown specks on the leaves of snapdragons(different flower bed)? From maryloug1027@cox.net Wed Apr 24 19:45:32 2002 From: maryloug1027@cox.net (maryloug1027@cox.net) Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 12:45:32 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204241945.g3OJjWY24619@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like to know why the tips of my fan palms are turning yellow and brown. I fertilized with palm tree fertilizer about 3 weeks ago. Also how much and how often should I be watering? Thanks for any input. From RkBetu@aol.com Wed Apr 24 20:56:03 2002 From: RkBetu@aol.com (RkBetu@aol.com) Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 16:56:03 -0400 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Schoolyard trees Message-ID: <3F6A1A41.42ED70CE.00051B05@aol.com> I work at a small rural school (Wittmann) that has dozens of trees from 2 years old to over 60. The oldest & largest are tamarack, eucalyptus,& pines/junipers; others are mulberry, ash, c. elm, citrus, and pepper. Most have received no care at all for years. A few have moats less than 4' wide that are flooded for about 10 minutes once a week or so (some of these are over 25' high and as I understand, this water is not getting to the feeder roots). With the drought, a couple have died, a few others getting close to it. There is no irrigation system, nor plans for one. We have a new groundskeeper that wants to save the trees, but does not seem to know how. Does anyone know of a practical, feasible way to get some water to these poor trees? I doubt all of them will make to monsoon season... Thanks in advance A concerned teacher From hojo60@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr 24 23:49:02 2002 From: hojo60@worldnet.att.net (hojo60@worldnet.att.net) Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 16:49:02 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204242349.g3ONn2Y24260@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a pencil cactus. It has tiny white cotten like balls on it. When sprayed with a hose it looks like it is bleeding. What is it and how do I get rid of it. From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Apr 25 02:08:02 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 19:08:02 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tapien Blue Violet Verbena References: <200204081725.g38HPt900963@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3CC76502.8B12311D@qwest.net> With a simple search from my home page, I raised a number of nurseries who sell this plant. I scanned a few of the websites, but there was no specific info provided: you would have to call the nurseries themselves. This hybrid comes in other colors, as well. Sunset Western Garden Book suggests that the growth habit is 4" high with a spread of 1 to 1.5 feet. They require regular watering. Linda Guy, MG nanagusgus@aol.com wrote: > I have a verbena given to me. when i call nurseries they can't answer my question? what kind is it and more importantly how big does it get?? It says: TAPIEN/TM BLUE on it.I need to know so i know the size of ground i need to put it in. Thank You. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Apr 25 01:49:13 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 18:49:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: Mesquite trees] Message-ID: <3CC76099.DEE37F68@qwest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------DAE94415AD04B0C78877757B Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Can anyone be of assistance to John? --------------DAE94415AD04B0C78877757B Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 73600 invoked by uid 0); 23 Apr 2002 20:38:36 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO mail8.uswest.net) (63.226.138.8) by mpls-mailin-08.inet.qwest.net with SMTP; 23 Apr 2002 20:38:36 -0000 Received: (qmail 54999 invoked by uid 0); 23 Apr 2002 20:38:34 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO imo-d10.mx.aol.com) (205.188.157.42) by mail8.uswest.net with SMTP; 23 Apr 2002 20:38:34 -0000 Received: from Aircorp1@aol.com by imo-d10.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v32.5.) id 9.115.105742da (4117) for ; Tue, 23 Apr 2002 16:38:26 -0400 (EDT) Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 16:38:25 EDT Message-ID: <115.105742da.29f72041@aol.com> From: Aircorp1@aol.com To: lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: Mesquite trees MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: AOL 7.0 for Windows US sub 121 X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Linda I am looking for a wholesaler that can supply 50 large mesquite trees and deliver them to Eagle Pass, Texas. Any suggestions? Thanks John --------------DAE94415AD04B0C78877757B-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Apr 25 01:54:49 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 18:54:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Flea beetles References: <20020423232423.15662.qmail@uadvg137.cms.usa.net> Message-ID: <3CC761E9.1D241B25@qwest.net> Gardeners Supply has an insecticidal soap that lists flea beetles as a target. I have no personal experience with the product. http://www.gardeners.com/sell.asp?ProdGroupID=11941 I've seen other 'Concern' products at my local nursery, so you might not have to spend S&H. Other solutions to flea beetles were offered at gardensAlive! http://www.gardensalive.com/pestguide_item.asp?article_id=39 Linda Guy, MG Stan Eissinger wrote: > Does anyone know of an organic solution to the flea beetles that devastate > my mexican evening primrose each spring? Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Apr 25 01:58:57 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 18:58:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sod for St. Johns References: <200204241706.g3OH62Y17507@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3CC762E0.134C8D9C@qwest.net> Ask our counterparts at your local extension office, right in St. Johns, who will be much more familiar with your conditions. http://ag.arizona.edu/apache/ Linda Guy, MG anomaly@inficad.com wrote: > Can you recommend a sod that will grow in the St. Johns area? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Apr 25 02:01:44 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 19:01:44 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Possible Cochineal Scale References: <200204242349.g3ONn2Y24260@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3CC76387.97E45F12@qwest.net> The telltale red is often a sign of cochineal scale. See if this isn't what you have on your cactus. http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/insects/cochineal.html Linda Guy, MG hojo60@worldnet.att.net wrote: > I have a pencil cactus. It has tiny white cotten like balls on it. When sprayed with a hose it looks like it is bleeding. > > What is it and how do I get rid of it. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Apr 25 03:41:44 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 23:41:44 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palms with yellow fronds Message-ID: --part1_c8.25e986df.29f8d4f8_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Palm trees and especially queen palms require a special palm fertilizer applied three to four times a year. The yellowing of the leaves is very likely due to lack of nutrition and improper irrigation. It will take several months after fertilizing before you begin to see a difference. Check out these sites for info on palm care: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_c8.25e986df.29f8d4f8_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Palm trees and especially queen palms require a special palm fertilizer applied three to four times a year. The yellowing of the leaves is very likely due to lack of nutrition and improper irrigation. It will take several months after fertilizing before you begin to see a difference.
Check out these sites for info on palm care: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_c8.25e986df.29f8d4f8_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Apr 25 03:41:43 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 23:41:43 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Winter Annuals Message-ID: <142.d7a04c3.29f8d4f7@aol.com> --part1_142.d7a04c3.29f8d4f7_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit When our temperatures are consistantly over 90 degrees it is time to replace your winter annuals with summer annuals that will handle the hotter weather. The quality of your flowers could be helped by changing your irrigation practice of watering every other day to watering every four days this time of year. The oleander leaves and the chlorine fumes should not cause a problem. Check out these sites for info on proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://www.amwua.org/xscp-wateringschedules.htm Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_142.d7a04c3.29f8d4f7_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit When our temperatures are consistantly over 90 degrees it is time to replace your winter annuals with summer annuals that will handle the hotter weather. The quality of your flowers could be helped by changing your irrigation practice of watering every other day to watering every four days this time of year.
The oleander leaves and the chlorine fumes should not cause a problem.
Check out these sites for info on proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://www.amwua.org/xscp-wateringschedules.htm

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_142.d7a04c3.29f8d4f7_boundary-- From watsontl@mindspring.com Thu Apr 25 04:24:23 2002 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 21:24:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: santa ana References: <3e.1d22bcae.29f7186d@aol.com> <000e01c1eb87$d4fc4760$0653530c@j0r9501> Message-ID: <000801c1ec11$154c36c0$a648b83f@oemcomputer> If it s true hybrid, there was seed to get it started, but that seed would have been produced by crossing two different varieties, resulting in a third (Santa Ana in this case). Because the Santa Ana is bred to be a sterile hybrid, it can't produce a next generation on its own, so you would need the original grasses that were crossed in the first place. Nothing special here (except for the sterility part) - this is how we get hybrid tomatoes, petunias, beets, etc. ----- Original Message ----- From: "olin" To: "Arid_Gardener List" ; Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 4:59 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: santa ana > ----- Original Message ----- From: > > Hi Olin, > > Sal here again. If Santa Ana grass is a vigorous sterile Bermuda grass > then > > how did this so called Santa Ana grass come about? Was it evolution, > the big > > BANG or what? I was told by a grass pro that seed does exist but the > sod > > growers make more money selling sod which makes more sense. But thanks > for > > your time anyway. > > Sal Cannizzo > > > Try a local company like Western Sos where you will get a straight > answer. Also tell them about the advice you received from your > "professional". -Olin > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lynnwng@msn.com Thu Apr 25 05:05:10 2002 From: lynnwng@msn.com (lynnwng@msn.com) Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 22:05:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204250505.g3P55AY07147@Ag.arizona.edu> I started planting tomato and bell peppers at the end of March. Now most of them have grown by now the second pair of leaves(the first pair of leaves in the real sense). I plan to transplant them into bigger containers outside of room soon(I don't have a yard),but I am afraid it would be too hot for the young plants. Should I keep the plants inside or put them outside? btw, how often should I water the plants now? From putneycj@earthlink.net Thu Apr 25 05:55:25 2002 From: putneycj@earthlink.net (putneycj@earthlink.net) Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 22:55:25 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204250555.g3P5tPY12630@Ag.arizona.edu> I have two rose bushes that some of the leaves have turned brown, or at least on the edge of the leaves. My other roses are doing great. These two were planted this year from pots, and are next to each other. Both are Hybrid Teas. Could you let me know what to do. From watsontl@mindspring.com Thu Apr 25 13:15:45 2002 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 06:15:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200204241817.g3OIHHY04773@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000801c1ec5b$5051c600$210eb83f@oemcomputer> Considering how warm it's been lately, I have to wonder if maybe the plants are getting too dry. Another possibility would be water splashing into the soil from the pool - 18" isn't all that far if the swimmers are at all enthusiastic. I doubt vapors drifting from the pool are to blame, but I have very little experience with swimming pools and can't say this for certain. The first thing I would try would be to increase the rate at which the bed is irrigated now that the heat is on (daily watering instead of every other day). I would also put down some sort of mulch to retard evaporation, to keep the soil moist between waterings. And maybe put a ban on the "cannonball" pool splashdown. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 11:17 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I have a garden bed with flowers, 18" cooldeck separates it from the pool, and it is 32 feet long and 2 feet deep. The bed has a southern exposure with mature oleanders hanging over the block wall that the flower garden is in front of, so the flowers don't get full sun. I just noticed that 1/2 of the nasturtium and blue salvia leaves are curling. I also noticed that the tips on some of the yellow lantana leaves are dark almost black.Some of the other leaves on other flowers,also seem to have curling or drying leaves. This part of the flower bed gets less sun than the other part. My question is, do you think it is a fungus from too much water( there is a drip that goes on every other day, but it doesn't seem too wet in there), would oleander leaves do harm to the plants or soil, since they are falling into the bed? Could the chlorine from shocking the pool drift airborne to the flowerbed via a breeze, cause these symptoms? I had this beautiful thick lush mixture of flowers a! > nd now they seem to be sick! Help!! Also, what are the little brown specks on the leaves of snapdragons(different flower bed)? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Mgdlite37D@aol.com Thu Apr 25 16:12:43 2002 From: Mgdlite37D@aol.com (Mgdlite37D@aol.com) Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 12:12:43 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: santa ana Message-ID: <118.108fe339.29f984fb@aol.com> Hey thanks for the info. This is most sensible answer I have gotten so far. I appreciate you time and effort. Guess I may have to spot sod or use stolens in the bad spots I have. This is the second time I have re-sodded from western sod. But thanks again Olin. Sal mgdlite37d@aol.com From s2@arcworldwide.com Thu Apr 25 16:06:12 2002 From: s2@arcworldwide.com (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 09:06:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] problem children Message-ID: <3CC82974.31969C5F@arcworldwide.com> I have a couple of problem children I need feedback on. The first is a standard oleander I planted last summer that simply seems to fail to thrive. It will get new tiny leaves, and buds, that die out. It is the most pathetic, straggly looking thing. I scanned a couple of leaves: http://www.auroranow.org/photos/sick_olie.jpg Soil: desert sand. Possible caliche, we had a bear of a time digging its hole, but it was hard, not impossible. Care: deep, infrequent (once a month over the winter, every 2-3 weeks now) water. Maybe just not quite deep enough and a little too infrequent? Problem child 2 is a 5-gal emu bush (Eremophila--not sure of variety) I just planted about a week ago. 2 hours after putting it in the ground, it started wilting. It was just slightly rootbound, but really just slightly. I pulled off all the dry, hairy matted roots at the very bottom when I put it in the ground. Soil is fine, good drainage, natural desert sand. I really soak shrubs as I'm planting them and the only thing I can think of is that it was a little too wet when I planted it? (not yellowing though like overwater, just wilty). -- Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. Vice President, Communications & Technology ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org ===================================================== "I became convinced we are here for each other." -- R. Buckminster Fuller From kileyswapp@hotmail.com Thu Apr 25 17:12:58 2002 From: kileyswapp@hotmail.com (kileyswapp@hotmail.com) Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 10:12:58 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204251712.g3PHCwY05434@Ag.arizona.edu> I need all the info I can get on pearl scale, what it is, what it looks like, the lifetime, everything. Thanks! From Krulich@aol.com Thu Apr 25 17:48:53 2002 From: Krulich@aol.com (Krulich@aol.com) Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 13:48:53 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question: enough sunlight from grapefruit tree? Message-ID: <1a1.14fd0cb.29f99b85@aol.com> I want to plant a grapefruit tree in a location that gets full sun from sunrise up until about 1 or 2pm in the summer time. After that it is in the full shade of a large pine. Will that be enough sunlight for the grapefruit tree? It will receive even less sun in the winter. Please advise whether or not it is a mistake to plant the tree there. Thanks, Tom - Tucson From Krulich@aol.com Thu Apr 25 17:58:13 2002 From: Krulich@aol.com (Krulich@aol.com) Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 13:58:13 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Need advice: oil spilled on tree roots Message-ID: <93.1c1ac4bd.29f99db5@aol.com> About 2 quarts of unused transmission fluid spilled and soaked into the ground at the base of a very large mulberry tree. The roots are very dense where it spilled but I was able to vacuum out most of the oil soaked soil around them. What should I do now? Should I just put clean soil around the roots or should I first clean the roots somehow? The roots range from 1/8" to about 3/4" in size and the hole is about 1 foot by 1 foot and 6 inches deep. Thanks, Tom From cstephens@infinet-is.com Thu Apr 25 19:32:01 2002 From: cstephens@infinet-is.com (cstephens@infinet-is.com) Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 12:32:01 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204251932.g3PJW1Y08880@Ag.arizona.edu> The newest growth (leaves)on my young "Katy" Apricot is a golden bronze color. This has been appearing for the last two weeks or so. Is this normal for a newly planted tree? Prior to this all of the leaves were a healthy looking green. The tree had not started to leaf out when planted in central PHX from a pot in February. The nurseryman at Baker's said the tree had been in the pot for a month or two. Instructions in pub 8101 were followed in planting the tree. Exposure is nearly full sun with some shade very early and very late in the day. Watering is flood irrigation. The entire planting hole and a few inches beyond is mulched with dry ash leaves to a depth of 3 or 4 inches except for 3 or 4 inches adjacent to the trunk. The soil hasn't dried since planting. The only spraying in the area has been some 6% acetic acid (vinegar) on the bur clover in the nearby turf. Thanks for any info you can provide. Charlie From Rushedwth7@msn.com Thu Apr 25 22:05:15 2002 From: Rushedwth7@msn.com (Rushedwth7@msn.com) Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 15:05:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204252205.g3PM5AY12685@Ag.arizona.edu> I live in Chandler Heights. Several plants I grew when in Mesa froze last winter. What is the planting zone for Chandler Heights at the base of the San Tan Mountains (Recker/Hunt Highway) From pmb9f@virginia.edu Thu Apr 25 22:55:11 2002 From: pmb9f@virginia.edu (pmb9f@virginia.edu) Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 15:55:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204252255.g3PMtBY23748@Ag.arizona.edu> What are those stringy things that shed from the Oak tree in the Spring? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Apr 25 22:56:49 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 18:56:49 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roses with brown leaves Message-ID: --part1_bf.1f5bf36f.29f9e3b1_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Leaves with brown edges on roses could be caused by either salt burn which is often caused by improper irrigation, or from fertilizer burn which can be caused by over fertilizing, fertilizing with out watering before and after or applying a liquiud fertilizer during the hottest part of the day. Spider mites can also cause brown leaves although the whole leaf will become brown and crinkled. If you will send me more pertinent info such as watering interval and amount, and when fertilized with what and the amount as well as what spray has been used for powdery mildew and when I should be able to be more specific about a diagnosis. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian --part1_bf.1f5bf36f.29f9e3b1_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Leaves with brown edges on roses could be caused by either salt burn which is often caused by improper irrigation, or from fertilizer burn which can be caused by over fertilizing, fertilizing with out watering before and after or applying a liquiud fertilizer during the hottest part of the day.
Spider mites can also cause brown leaves although the whole leaf will become brown and crinkled.
If you will send me more pertinent info such as watering interval and amount, and when fertilized with what and the amount as well as what spray has been used for powdery mildew and when I should be able to be more specific about a diagnosis.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian --part1_bf.1f5bf36f.29f9e3b1_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Apr 25 22:56:49 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 18:56:49 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] problem children Message-ID: <114.1078f604.29f9e3b1@aol.com> --part1_114.1078f604.29f9e3b1_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sherryl, You mentioned caliche, lack of drainage in the planting holes of both of your problem children could cause wilting. If drainage is ok then not enough water could be causing the ole to wilt. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_114.1078f604.29f9e3b1_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sherryl,

You mentioned caliche, lack of drainage in the planting holes of both of your problem children could cause wilting. If drainage is ok then not enough water could be causing the ole to wilt.

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_114.1078f604.29f9e3b1_boundary-- From watsontl@mindspring.com Thu Apr 25 13:24:37 2002 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 06:24:37 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200204250505.g3P55AY07147@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000001c1ecb7$7c5685e0$2e6ab83f@oemcomputer> These two links will give you some general information on what to do next: http://www.gardenguides.com/TipsandTechniques/starting.htm http://www.gardenguides.com/articles/hardening.htm The heat will be a problem, more than likely. For our climate you started these seeds about a month late, so you will want to ease them gently into the great outdoors. Make sure you give them plenty of light to encourage strong growth. As for watering, try to keep the soil evenly moist, but not soggy. When the pots feel on the light side, you've let them get too dry. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 10:05 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I started planting tomato and bell peppers at the end of March. Now most of them have grown by now the second pair of leaves(the first pair of leaves in the real sense). I plan to transplant them into bigger containers outside of room soon(I don't have a yard),but I am afraid it would be too hot for the young plants. Should I keep the plants inside or put them outside? btw, how often should I water the plants now? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From maier2@earthlink.net Fri Apr 26 06:48:25 2002 From: maier2@earthlink.net (maier2@earthlink.net) Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2002 23:48:25 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204260648.g3Q6mPY29592@Ag.arizona.edu> We had a beautiful Mimosa tree in the back yard. It shed the few leaves that it had on it this spring. All of a sudden there is nothing growing on it. All I see is sticks of wood. What could have happened to it? From s2@arcworldwide.com Fri Apr 26 14:34:14 2002 From: s2@arcworldwide.com (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 07:34:14 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] problem children References: <113.10952211.29f9e81a@aol.com> Message-ID: <3CC96566.4056020F@arcworldwide.com> Rod, I gave my Ole a deep, deep, deep soaking yesterday, and the drainage was fine. Since the ole is off the drip, I suspect I just wasn't watering it deep enough (flooding a basin rather than a slow drip). How often should I water it now until it springs back to life? Every couple of weeks? Every week? My next question is my bottle brush. It's showing signs on just a few leaves of iron deficiency, so about a week ago I applied iron. My question is, the brand I bought is Safer, and it says "iron with chelate" (14.75% water soluble iron and .25% chelate). I've read only to use chelated iron in our desert soils, and this was the only thing on the shelf that said Chelate. Is it the right stuff? How long before I start seeing an improvement? (I applied the amount according to directions, but can't really "work into soil" since there is decomposed granite around the shrub. -- Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. Vice President, Communications & Technology ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org ===================================================== "I became convinced we are here for each other." -- R. Buckminster Fuller From sjbass@qwest.net Fri Apr 26 14:55:32 2002 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 07:55:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Information on Pearl Scale References: <200204251712.g3PHCwY05434@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3CC96A64.8FA06ACD@qwest.net> http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-July/004793.html The above link will take you to an archived response on pearl scale. It includes the link to the U of A's information on it, as well as the link to the archives where you can view all of our past responses on pearl scale and how to deal with it. Good luck, Sue Bass kileyswapp@hotmail.com wrote: > I need all the info I can get on pearl scale, what it is, what it looks like, the lifetime, everything. Thanks! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From rich2481@yahoo.com Fri Apr 26 15:04:11 2002 From: rich2481@yahoo.com (rich2481@yahoo.com) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 08:04:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204261504.g3QF4AY22531@Ag.arizona.edu> Is there a easy, do-it-yourself book or material on making your own hydroponic setup for a small green house, We live in Tucson in Avra valley and our soil has great drainage but doesnt seem to support vegetation very well even with quite a bit of watering Thanks Richard From njblang@msn.com Fri Apr 26 15:54:51 2002 From: njblang@msn.com (njblang@msn.com) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 08:54:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204261554.g3QFspY02659@Ag.arizona.edu> I live in northern Scottsdale near Carefree and have just landscaped my yard with 2 irrigation drip systems. One for trees (Mesquites, Tx Mountain Laurel, Mexican Bird of Paradise) and one for plants (Autumn Sage, Ruellia, Verbana, Bouganvilla, Rosemary, Mexican Sage). How do I set each drip system for proper watering. Ex: 1 hour 3 times a week for temps over 90 degrees? Or 30 minutes daily? Is there a website that could give me a schedule for specific care? I don't want to lose any plants. Thank you From thehaits@aol.com Fri Apr 26 16:14:58 2002 From: thehaits@aol.com (thehaits@aol.com) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 09:14:58 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204261614.g3QGEwY06847@Ag.arizona.edu> Have 20 year old S. American mesquite tree. It is developing oozing holes. Hard clear substance appears. About 40 or more holes along two trunks. What can be done to control? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Apr 26 18:05:30 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 14:05:30 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mimosa tree dying Message-ID: <156.cf1a864.29faf0ea@aol.com> --part1_156.cf1a864.29faf0ea_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Here in southern Arisona we have had drought conditions for over five years. Without adequate irrigation trees and plants are dying. Check out these sites for info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://www.amwua.org/xscp-wateringschedules.htm Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_156.cf1a864.29faf0ea_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Here in southern Arisona we have had drought conditions for over five years. Without adequate irrigation trees and plants are dying. Check out these sites for info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://www.amwua.org/xscp-wateringschedules.htm

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_156.cf1a864.29faf0ea_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Apr 26 18:16:38 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 14:16:38 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] problem children Message-ID: <46.26825556.29faf386@aol.com> --part1_46.26825556.29faf386_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sherryl, In Tucson I would suggest deep watering your Oles once every two weeks now. When the temps go over 105 I would go to once per week. If they show stress just before watering shorten the interval. Bottlebrush is quite prone to iron chlorosis so the application of chelated iron was the proper treatment to do. It will probanly take at least a month before you see any change on your plant leaves. Look for change on the new growth. Good luck. Rod --part1_46.26825556.29faf386_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sherryl,

In Tucson I would suggest deep watering your Oles once every two weeks now. When the temps go over 105 I would go to once per week. If they show stress just before watering shorten the interval.
Bottlebrush is quite prone to iron chlorosis so the application of chelated iron was the proper treatment to do. It will probanly take at least a month before you see any change on your plant leaves. Look for change on the new growth.

Good luck.

Rod --part1_46.26825556.29faf386_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Apr 26 18:21:22 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 14:21:22 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Irrigation Message-ID: <17.274cf9de.29faf4a2@aol.com> --part1_17.274cf9de.29faf4a2_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit These websites should answer your questions about waterig your trees and plants; http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://www.amwua.org/xscp-wateringschedules.htm Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_17.274cf9de.29faf4a2_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit These websites should answer your questions about waterig your trees and plants; http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://www.amwua.org/xscp-wateringschedules.htm

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_17.274cf9de.29faf4a2_boundary-- From dan.felice@caremark.com Fri Apr 26 18:27:55 2002 From: dan.felice@caremark.com (dan.felice@caremark.com) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 11:27:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204261827.g3QIRtY05540@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like to hold down the edges of my landscaping fabric. Is there such a thing as landscaping tape that can hold up to the elements? Thank you. From s2@arcworldwide.com Fri Apr 26 18:44:15 2002 From: s2@arcworldwide.com (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 11:44:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200204261827.g3QIRtY05540@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3CC99FFF.2832AD8E@arcworldwide.com> I'm not sure about tape, but I've used landscaping "staples" that hold the fabric in place. Should be easy to find in the same area at the home/landscape store near the fabric itself. (not a master gardener) -- Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. Vice President, Communications & Technology ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org ===================================================== "I became convinced we are here for each other." -- R. Buckminster Fuller From techmama@starlene.com Fri Apr 26 23:13:02 2002 From: techmama@starlene.com (Starlene Stewart) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 16:13:02 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Holding Down Landscaping Fabric References: <200204261827.g3QIRtY05540@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <002f01c1ed77$eaffac40$9589b4d1@stewart> Hi, Have you tried those metal prongs that look like giant long staples? The metal is thick -- bigger than hanger wire, but smaller than the diameter of a pencil. It is bent into the shape of a U. The legs of the U being about 1 1/4 inches apart, and the length about 5-6 inches. I have used mine mostly for holding soaker hose in place, but I think they are actually meant to hold landscaping fabric down. Starlene Phoenix, Arizona Not a MG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, April 26, 2002 11:27 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I would like to hold down the edges of my landscaping fabric. Is there such a thing as landscaping tape that can hold up to the elements? > > Thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From watsontl@mindspring.com Sat Apr 27 01:59:55 2002 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 18:59:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200204261504.g3QF4AY22531@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <004c01c1ed8f$3b287d20$5f0cb83f@oemcomputer> I can't steer you toward a specific reference on hydroponics, but you might find the web site of a company called Worms Way informative. http://www.wormsway.com/ What sort of vegetation are you trying to grow and how have you been amending the soil? I garden in Tucson (north central) and have done pretty well, following some soil improvement. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, April 26, 2002 8:04 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Is there a easy, do-it-yourself book or material on making your own hydroponic setup for a small green house, We live in Tucson in Avra valley and our soil has great drainage but doesnt seem to support vegetation very well even with quite a bit of watering > > Thanks > > Richard > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From watsontl@mindspring.com Sat Apr 27 02:08:41 2002 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 19:08:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200204252205.g3PM5AY12685@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <006601c1ed90$75d74400$5f0cb83f@oemcomputer> If you go by the Sunset Western Garden Book (a reference I highly recommend) you are in zone 13. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2002 3:05 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I live in Chandler Heights. Several plants I grew when in Mesa froze last winter. What is the planting zone for Chandler Heights at the base of the San Tan Mountains (Recker/Hunt Highway) > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From techmama@starlene.com Sat Apr 27 15:12:54 2002 From: techmama@starlene.com (Starlene Stewart) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 08:12:54 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sunset Western Garden Book References: <200204252205.g3PM5AY12685@Ag.arizona.edu> <006601c1ed90$75d74400$5f0cb83f@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <001a01c1edfe$0259cc00$5a6bb5d1@stewart> Speaking of the Sunset Western Garden Book I have longed for a copy forever, and it finally occurred to me to check for it at one of my favorite online places... www.half.com I was able to purchase a copy for a mere $1.25 plus a couple dollars shipping and handling. It is a great book!! Starlene Phoenix, Arizona ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom & Linda Watson" To: ; Sent: Friday, April 26, 2002 7:08 PM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > If you go by the Sunset Western Garden Book (a reference I highly recommend) > you are in zone 13. > > Tom > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: > Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2002 3:05 PM > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > > > I live in Chandler Heights. Several plants I grew when in Mesa froze last > winter. What is the planting zone for Chandler Heights at the base of the > San Tan Mountains (Recker/Hunt Highway) > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rmford1@mindspring.com Sat Apr 27 15:33:16 2002 From: rmford1@mindspring.com (Renea Ford) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 08:33:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cancer-root Message-ID: <001401c1ee00$dae78060$9f17b83f@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C1EDC6.2D6B5180 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Burro Week Strangler (cancer-root) has popped up in several places in my = desert landscaped yard. I understand it's a parasitic herb. How = potentially damaging is this? I've used Round Up on them with limited = success. What else might work? ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C1EDC6.2D6B5180 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Burro Week Strangler (cancer-root) has popped up in several places = in my=20 desert landscaped yard. I understand it's a parasitic herb. = How=20 potentially damaging is this? I've used Round Up on them with = limited=20 success. What else might work?

------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C1EDC6.2D6B5180-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Apr 27 15:34:49 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 08:34:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fabric anchors References: <200204261827.g3QIRtY05540@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3CCAC518.D9BB1AFB@qwest.net> I've also made my own 'staples' from cutting up old tomato towers that have lost some of their horizontal pieces and bending them into some u-shaped pins. Also use these to hold soaker hoses in place. Linda Guy, MG dan.felice@caremark.com wrote: > I would like to hold down the edges of my landscaping fabric. Is there such a thing as landscaping tape that can hold up to the elements? > > Thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Apr 27 15:39:26 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 08:39:26 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pearl Scale References: <200204251712.g3PHCwY05434@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3CCAC62E.25C82EE0@qwest.net> In addition to Sue's reply, before treatment, please be sure to id the scale in your lawn. Two of our Master Gardeners are in the turf industry and say repeatedly that pearl scale is way overdiagnosed as a lawn problem. They feel its more likely to be some aspect of care needs to be changed. Linda Guy, MG kileyswapp@hotmail.com wrote: > I need all the info I can get on pearl scale, what it is, what it looks like, the lifetime, everything. Thanks! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From rmford1@mindspring.com Sat Apr 27 15:40:14 2002 From: rmford1@mindspring.com (Renea Ford) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 08:40:14 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Burro Weed Strangler Message-ID: <002f01c1ee01$d434e9a0$9f17b83f@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_002C_01C1EDC7.26C983A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Sorry, that's Burro Weed Strangler that's been popping up all over and I = don't know what to do about it. Thanks. Renea ------=_NextPart_000_002C_01C1EDC7.26C983A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Sorry, that's Burro Weed Strangler that's been popping up = all over=20 and I don't know what to do about it. Thanks. =20 Renea

------=_NextPart_000_002C_01C1EDC7.26C983A0-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Apr 27 15:48:31 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 08:48:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Problems with Grapefruit Message-ID: <3CCAC84E.25A607CF@qwest.net> You recently corresponded with a member of our UA research staff who forwarded your question to our Maricopa County arid gardener server for reply. Assuming that there were no substantive changes in your cultural practices, and that there was no inadvertent chemical overspray or something leached into your soil, it is quite possible that you are experiencing a natural phenomenon. Citrus trees can sometimes, quite inexplicably, 'take a year off' from production. Some trees actually alternate years. If you know your variety, you might look it up in our citrus publication AZ 1001 to see if there's any additional insights for you. Linda Guy, MG From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Apr 27 15:53:00 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 08:53:00 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200204252205.g3PM5AY12685@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3CCAC95C.EC88AE69@qwest.net> Many of you folks in the periphery of metro Phoenix have more winter frost risk than those of us who live in the central areas where heat is better retained. For some general guidance on frost protection, you might want to study publication AZ 1002 before next winter's arrival. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Weather Linda Guy, MG Rushedwth7@msn.com wrote: > I live in Chandler Heights. Several plants I grew when in Mesa froze last winter. What is the planting zone for Chandler Heights at the base of the San Tan Mountains (Recker/Hunt Highway) > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Apr 27 16:00:02 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 09:00:02 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grape Fertilization References: <200204140029.g3E0Tq928447@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3CCACB02.3FDB9023@qwest.net> I haven't grown grapes here in Phoenix, but since I didn't see a reply to your question, would like to direct you to our publication MC 59 Backyard Grapes which you can order at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#top It will give you good guidance on most all aspects of grape care, including fertilizing. I seem to recall that the home gardener tends to do too much, resulting in lush vegetation. Linda Guy, MG jdkdtwo@aol.com wrote: > I have 4 different varities of grapes in my yard. > What would be the best fertilizer ratio for optimum > growth and to put on fruit? When would be the best > time of the year to apply? Thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Apr 27 16:21:35 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 09:21:35 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Schoolyard trees References: <3F6A1A41.42ED70CE.00051B05@aol.com> Message-ID: <3CCAD00F.FAE6C178@qwest.net> I think I already saw somebody respond with the MG Manual chapter on irrigation. If not, http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ As a practical matter, can you not create a school-wide project where classrooms 'adopt' certain trees and use hoses to provide irrigation biweekly? If the classes start watering at school's convening and roll up the hoses just before the buses are scheduled to head home, you might be able to salvage your trees. I would flood entire areas, because 4' moats on mature trees is unlikely to be adequate. Linda Guy, MG RkBetu@aol.com wrote: > I work at a small rural school (Wittmann) that has dozens of trees from 2 years old to over 60. The oldest & largest are tamarack, eucalyptus,& pines/junipers; others are mulberry, ash, c. elm, citrus, and pepper. Most have received no care at all for years. A few have moats less than 4' wide that are flooded for about 10 minutes once a week or so (some of these are over 25' high and as I understand, this water is not getting to the feeder roots). With the drought, a couple have died, a few others getting close to it. There is no irrigation system, nor plans for one. We have a new groundskeeper that wants to save the trees, but does not seem to know how. Does anyone know of a practical, feasible way to get some water to these poor trees? I doubt all of them will make to monsoon season... > Thanks in advance > A concerned teacher > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Apr 27 16:32:57 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 09:32:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Watering Ocotillo References: Message-ID: <3CCAD2B8.1CD3E077@qwest.net> --------------27AC110C9B19A82DB0AD943C Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I too have heard that hand spraying ocotillo canes is beneficial. However, I don't do it and my ocotillo is quite splendid. In Judy Mielke's Native Plants for SW Landscapes, she reports this practice anecdotally. Mary Irish [formerly of the Desert Botanical Garden] scoffs a little harder at the practice in her book Gardening in the Desert. This is not the same thing as the plant's response to a rainfall [because it also reaches the roots, which is Mary's point]. These are amazingly drought tolerant plants once they are established. Which yours appear to be. So you are correct to be concerned about overwatering. I would plug the emitters on the ocotillo and use a hose to deeply water about once every three of four weeks in the summer. The frequency will depend on how green you wish to maintain the canes as this is a drought-deciduous plant. Linda Guy, MG Jamie Nettles wrote: > I have heard that you should water an Ocotillo by spraying the canes. I > have also heard that you can kill an Ocotillo by over watering it. I have > heard but also know from personal experience that Ocotillo respond to a rain > with green leaves which they drop after a few weeks of dryness. I have a > drip irrigation system on an automatic timer which cannot be set to water > any less frequently than every 15 days. I have 7 very nice Ocotillo that I > am very happy with and don't want to see harmed. Can I use the drip > irrigation system to water them? Will they be happy with this in the long > run? Is it OK to keep them green throughout the summer will that harm them? > If I use the drip system should I water them heavy every 15 days? > > Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener --------------27AC110C9B19A82DB0AD943C Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I too have heard that hand spraying ocotillo canes is beneficial. However, I don't do it and my ocotillo is quite splendid. In Judy Mielke's Native Plants for SW Landscapes, she reports this practice anecdotally. Mary Irish [formerly of the Desert Botanical Garden] scoffs a little harder at the practice in her book Gardening in the Desert. This is not the same thing as the plant's response to a rainfall [because it also reaches the roots, which is Mary's point].

These are amazingly drought tolerant plants once they are established. Which yours appear to be. So you are correct to be concerned about overwatering. I would plug the emitters on the ocotillo and use a hose to deeply water about once every three of four weeks in the summer. The frequency will depend on how green you wish to maintain the canes as this is a drought-deciduous plant.

Linda Guy, MG

Jamie Nettles wrote:

I have heard that you should water an Ocotillo by spraying the canes. I
have also heard that you can kill an Ocotillo by over watering it. I have
heard but also know from personal experience that Ocotillo respond to a rain
with green leaves which they drop after a few weeks of dryness. I have a
drip irrigation system on an automatic timer which cannot be set to water
any less frequently than every 15 days. I have 7 very nice Ocotillo that I
am very happy with and don't want to see harmed. Can I use the drip
irrigation system to water them? Will they be happy with this in the long
run? Is it OK to keep them green throughout the summer will that harm them?
If I use the drip system should I water them heavy every 15 days?
Thanks
_______________________________________________
Arid_gardener mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener

--------------27AC110C9B19A82DB0AD943C-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Apr 27 16:35:48 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 09:35:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palms References: <200204140331.g3E3Vd915568@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3CCAD364.7C0C1D9B@qwest.net> I don't know triangle palms, but can direct you to our palm publication AZ 1021 http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm to review those that are considered viable in the low desert. I've heard of good success using mesh around root balls, but luckily, have not had to personally deal with this problem. Linda Guy, MG s.davidson@cox.net wrote: > Are triangle palms well adapted to this area? Had a bad experience with one a few years back but I might not have watered it correctly? Also have a few gophers which caused problems with a pygmy date palm and lilac vine. We replaced the lilac vine with wire mesh around the roots, and its doing fine. Would this be a good precaution if we plant more replacement palms. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Apr 27 16:46:15 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 09:46:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite Oozing References: <200204261614.g3QGEwY06847@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3CCAD5D7.F5977D47@qwest.net> Here is some information on insects that attack mesquites: Round- headed borers http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/insects/beetles/roundheadedborers.html Buck moth [there is one that attacks mesquites] http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/insects/paloverdebuckmoth.html Linda Guy, MG thehaits@aol.com wrote: > Have 20 year old S. American mesquite tree. > > It is developing oozing holes. Hard clear substance appears. About 40 or more holes along two trunks. What can be done to control? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Apr 27 16:56:53 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 16:56:53 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cancer-root, Burro Weed Strangler, Dodder Message-ID: I'm wondering if the plant you are describing is Dodder (Cuscuta indecora or a similar species). Dodder is a parasitic, rootless, leafless annual vine with striking yellow or orange stringlike twining stems. It reproduces only by seed. If what you have is Dodder, and the area is not one which you want to grow plants from seed, you could try using a pre-emergent to stop seed germination. I had Dodder appear a couple of years ago on lantana. I pulled up the small plants as soon as I saw them for several weeks. Had to dig up and get rid of one lantana that was heavily covered. At least in this case, the Dodder disappeared. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Renea Ford" >To: "Master Gardener" >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cancer-root >Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 08:33:16 -0700 > >Burro Week Strangler (cancer-root) has popped up in several places in my >desert landscaped yard. I understand it's a parasitic herb. How >potentially damaging is this? I've used Round Up on them with limited >success. What else might work? _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Apr 27 16:58:53 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 09:58:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fertilizing Grapes & Peaches References: <200204212226.g3LMQJY08097@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3CCAD8CD.2B335FC8@qwest.net> The following resources will be of great assistance to you: Master Gardener Manual http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ MC 90 Fruit Trees http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm MC 59 Backyard Grapes (same page as MC 90) Linda Guy, MG DollyEmmett@aol.com wrote: > When should I feed grapevines and peaches? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Apr 27 17:01:01 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 10:01:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oak Tree Shedding References: <200204252255.g3PMtBY23748@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3CCAD94D.93FBF6B4@qwest.net> Is it possible, from your email address, that you are in Virginia? If so, contact our counterparts at your local county'c cooperative extension service, whose phone number would be in your county government phone listings or search at http://www.reeusda.gov/statepartners/va.htm Linda Guy, MG pmb9f@virginia.edu wrote: > What are those stringy things that shed > from the Oak tree in the Spring? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Apr 27 17:03:50 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 10:03:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grape Growing References: <200204200542.g3K5ghY18631@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3CCAD9F6.EDF52F2D@qwest.net> I don't personally grow grapes here, but highly recommend that you secure a copy of our publication MC 59 Backyard Grapes which you can order at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Linda Guy, MG kyot@hotmail.com wrote: > I'm trying to grow grapes. They're doing really well, but help! They are sprawled all over the place! I've seen T-shaped supports on farms and trellises elsewhere. What's the best way to grow and support them? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Apr 27 17:11:25 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 10:11:25 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hydroponics References: <200204261504.g3QF4AY22531@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3CCADBBD.83D4C24F@qwest.net> [Linda Drew, I see you're online now; can you add to this reply since you're in Tucson?] When I went to Master Gardener University in Tucson last summer part of our program was a tour of the controlled environment ag program (ie hydroponics). I think the address is on E. Roger Road. I don't know that you can visit there, but here is a web address as a start. http://ag.arizona.edu/ceac/ There may be some extension material from this program. rich2481@yahoo.com wrote: > Is there a easy, do-it-yourself book or material on making your own hydroponic setup for a small green house, We live in Tucson in Avra valley and our soil has great drainage but doesnt seem to support vegetation very well even with quite a bit of watering > > Thanks > > Richard > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From beabeaq@msn.com Sat Apr 27 17:32:14 2002 From: beabeaq@msn.com (beabeaq@msn.com) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 10:32:14 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204271732.g3RHWER13556@Ag.arizona.edu> is it better to grow amaryllis in pots or in the garden here in arizona From robbobc@phnx.uswest.net Sat Apr 27 17:35:49 2002 From: robbobc@phnx.uswest.net (robbobc@phnx.uswest.net) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 10:35:49 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200204271735.g3RHZnR13852@Ag.arizona.edu> How can I find the web page that tells someone how to pronouce botanical plant names? From watsontl@mindspring.com Sat Apr 27 18:22:02 2002 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2002 11:22:02 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Burro Weed Strangler References: <002f01c1ee01$d434e9a0$9f17b83f@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <000001c1ee18$c3baa760$4132b83f@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0019_01C1EDDD.C140F6A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable If this is the plant I'm thinking of (scientific name Orobanche = ludoviciana), also more commonly known as broom rape, it is a parasite = that lives attached to the roots of plants, growing out of sight = underground until it flowers. What you are seeing (if I'm on the right = track) is a yellowish or brownish stalk coming up out of the soil, but = not necessarily wrapping itself around the stems of the shrub serving as = its host. Spraying them with an herbicide such as Roundup can be = risky, since the parasite is so closely linked to its host it might = serve as a pathway for the poison to get into the plants you're trying = to grow. Your best bet is to try and pull the broom rape up. There = will be some damage to the host plant roots, but this is nothing = compared with what the parasite is doing! At any rate, remove the = stalks that come up before they can produce seeds. If you are = persistent in this, you will win in the long run. Tom ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Renea Ford=20 To: Master Gardener=20 Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2002 8:40 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Burro Weed Strangler Sorry, that's Burro Weed Strangler that's been popping up all over and = I don't know what to do about it. Thanks. Renea ------=_NextPart_000_0019_01C1EDDD.C140F6A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

If this is the plant I'm thinking of (scientific = name=20 Orobanche ludoviciana), also more commonly = known as broom=20 rape, it is a parasite that lives attached to the roots of plants, = growing out=20 of sight underground until it flowers. What you are seeing = (if I'm=20 on the right track) is a yellowish or brownish stalk coming up out of = the soil,=20 but not necessarily wrapping itself around the stems of the shrub = serving as its=20 host. Spraying them with an herbicide such as Roundup can be = risky,=20 since the parasite is so closely linked to its host it might serve as a = pathway=20 for the poison to get into the plants you're trying to grow. = Your=20 best bet is to try and pull the broom rape up. There will be = some=20 damage to the host plant roots, but this is nothing compared with what = the=20 parasite is doing! At any rate, remove the stalks that come = up=20 before they can produce seeds. If you are persistent in = this, you=20 will win in the long run.

Tom

----- Original Message -----

From:=20 Renea=20 Ford

To: Master Gardener

Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2002 = 8:40=20 AM

Subject: [Arid_gardener] Burro = Weed=20 Strangler

Sorry, that's Burro Weed Strangler that's been popping up = all over=20 and I don't know what to do about it. Tha