From valleaz@aol.com Sun Dec 1 05:46:52 2002 From: valleaz@aol.com (valleaz@aol.com) Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 22:46:52 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200212010546.gB15kqN06974@Ag.arizona.edu> can you suggest where i could find a list of plants (greenery as well as plants that could provide soe color) that would do well in an area that is covered with wood lattice and gets very little direct light. This describes the entry area to my home which currently has some ivy and ferns that suffer a bit in the summer but survive the heat. The entry is on the east and the walkway runs west to the front door - on either side of the walkway there is 2 to 4 feet of soil and only about 2 feet along the north side of the rectangular area gets any direct sun - the entire area is covered with 3 inch peieces of wood slats that are separated by about 3 inches each, so there is light, but little direct light. I have lived here 2 years and would like to now devote some energy to the area but am having trouble deciding what ideal plants of verying height for the area would be, as well as if i should plant everything inthe current soil or include some large pots for height variety. thanks so much and happy holidays! From bagsbydel@cox.net Sun Dec 1 14:53:10 2002 From: bagsbydel@cox.net (bagsbydel@cox.net) Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 07:53:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200212011453.gB1Er9N29671@Ag.arizona.edu> I have sprouted an avacado seed. Want to know if it can be planted outdoors in Surprise, AZ. Will it need partial shade? What type of planting mix will be best? Thank you. Della Jones From 4landm@cox.net Mon Dec 2 00:40:55 2002 From: 4landm@cox.net (Lee and Myrna) Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 17:40:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: <003701c2999b$79923200$79246244@ph.cox.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0034_01C29960.CD1AF000 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have 2 different kind of fairy dusters. One is a little John and the = other has fern-type leaves. Neither are blooming now, although they = appear to be healthy. Is there something I can do to speed up the = blooming or start the blooming process? Lee ------=_NextPart_000_0034_01C29960.CD1AF000 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I have 2 different kind = of fairy=20 dusters. One is a little John and the other has fern-type = leaves. =20 Neither are blooming now, although they appear to be healthy. Is = there=20 something I can do to speed up the blooming or start the blooming=20 process?

Lee

------=_NextPart_000_0034_01C29960.CD1AF000-- From JoeyMalara@aol.com Mon Dec 2 03:36:32 2002 From: JoeyMalara@aol.com (JoeyMalara@aol.com) Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 22:36:32 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] oak tree Message-ID: <164.17f14b81.2b1c2f40@aol.com> --part1_164.17f14b81.2b1c2f40_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I once read that a full-grown oak tree sheds 700,000 leaves in the fall. True? --part1_164.17f14b81.2b1c2f40_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit      I once read that a full-grown oak tree sheds 700,000 leaves in the fall. True? --part1_164.17f14b81.2b1c2f40_boundary-- From DaveLong2000@cs.com Mon Dec 2 04:32:15 2002 From: DaveLong2000@cs.com (DaveLong2000@cs.com) Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 23:32:15 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Saving Citrus Trees Message-ID: <19b.cb53d23.2b1c3c4f@cs.com> --part1_19b.cb53d23.2b1c3c4f_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Greetings, I am well-aware that citrus trees are not what the "arid gardener" would recommend but I am desparate to know why my seven 13-year old trees are doing so poorly. One died two years ago while most of the others have dropped an inordinate amount of leaves (as well as immature fruit) this year and some branches have dried up and can be snapped off! There are far fewer oranges this year and both the lemon tree (normally full of fruit) and one of the tangerine trees are bearing nothing. I have not changed fertilizing habits (three times annually according to instructions) and deep water the trees in summer (about 3 hours each) approximately every three weeks. The tree leaves look more or less normal so that I don't suspect any disease but don't know what else it could be unless I need to water much more than I have been. My fear is that things might go from bad to worse and I will lose mature trees. My question is: "Has the drought been especially hard on citrus trees over the last couple of years or are there any other measures that I should be taking to assure that my trees survive and flourish next season?" Many thanks for considering this problem. Dave Long Fountain Hills --part1_19b.cb53d23.2b1c3c4f_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Greetings,
I am well-aware that citrus trees are not what the "arid gardener" would recommend but I am desparate to know why my seven 13-year old trees are doing so poorly. One died two years ago while most of the others have dropped an inordinate amount of leaves (as well as immature fruit) this year and some branches have dried up and can be snapped off! There are far fewer oranges this year and both the lemon tree (normally full of fruit) and one of the tangerine trees are bearing nothing. I have not changed fertilizing habits (three times annually according to instructions) and deep water the trees in summer (about 3 hours each) approximately every three weeks. The tree leaves look more or less normal so that I don't suspect any disease but don't know what else it could be unless I need to water much more than I have been. My fear is that things might go from bad to worse and I will lose mature trees. My question is: "Has the drought been especially hard on citrus trees over the last couple of years or are there any other measures that I should be taking to assure that my trees survive and flourish next season?"
Many thanks for considering this problem.
Dave Long
Fountain Hills    --part1_19b.cb53d23.2b1c3c4f_boundary-- From imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net Mon Dec 2 16:44:33 2002 From: imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 09:44:33 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] pre-emergent chemical References: <001601c2982f$8f4517b0$0000a398@CPQ31417743210> Message-ID: <005c01c29a22$1d094eb0$d957530c@delljor9501> Your original post very clearly asked about post emergents. For pre emergent herbicides to be most effective, they need to be applied just before the weeds begin to sprout so the best timing will vary depending on the weed. What seems to work best for me is application just before the vernal equinox for warm season weeds and just before the fall equinox for cool season weeds. But there are always some that are missed. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "lawrence" Sent: Friday, November 29, 2002 10:15 PM >pre-emergent chemical, not post-emergent is what I was asking about, if it should be applied in the fall or in the spring. >----- Original Message ----- From: > Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2002 9:45 PM >> What time of year is best to apply post-emergent weed control chemical. From 4landm@cox.net Mon Dec 2 17:25:37 2002 From: 4landm@cox.net (Lee and Myrna) Date: Mon, 02 Dec 2002 10:25:37 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Little Johns fairy dusters Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20021202102516.04b62278@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_7225399==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed To whom it may concern: I have 2 different kind of fairy dusters. One is a little John and the other has fern-type leaves. Neither are blooming now, although they appear to be healthy. Is there something I can do to speed up the blooming or start the blooming process? Lee Thank you very much...How do I post messages regularly to the site so I can get copies and answers? --=====================_7225399==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" To whom it may concern:

I have 2 different kind of fairy dusters. One is a little John and the
other has fern-type leaves. Neither are blooming now, although they appear to be healthy. Is there something I can do to speed up the
blooming or start the blooming process?

Lee      Thank you very much...How do I post messages regularly to the site so I can get copies and answers?
--=====================_7225399==_.ALT-- From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Mon Dec 2 21:44:12 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 14:44:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] pre-emergent chemical Message-ID: <001401c29a4b$f55c8060$fa2c0a3f@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C29A11.47A4CF20 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Pre-emergent herbicides should be applied twice a year, once in October = or November to control the winter weeds and again in February or March = to control the summer weeds provided that you live in the low desert. In = order for the herbicide to be most effective the application should be = applied just before a good rain or it should be watered in. Cultivation = of the treated area will also help.=20 Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: lawrence To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, December 02, 2002 8:29 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] pre-emergent chemical pre-emergent chemical, not post-emergent is what I was asking about, = if it should be applied in the fall or in the spring. ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C29A11.47A4CF20 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Pre-emergent herbicides should be applied twice a = year, once=20 in October or November to control the winter weeds and again in February = or=20 March to control the summer weeds provided that you live in the low = desert. In=20 order for the herbicide to be most effective the application should be = applied=20 just before a good rain or it should be watered in. Cultivation of the = treated=20 area will also help.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick

Master Gardener

-----Original = Message-----
From:=20 lawrence <sunbird07@earthlink.net>
To: = arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu = <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Date:=20 Monday, December 02, 2002 8:29 AM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = pre-emergent chemical

pre-emergent chemical, not = post-emergent is what=20 I was asking about, if it should be applied in the fall or = in the=20 spring.

------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C29A11.47A4CF20-- From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Mon Dec 2 22:01:01 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 15:01:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Saving Citrus Trees Message-ID: <003901c29a4e$4e871f40$fa2c0a3f@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0036_01C29A13.A1141820 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Dave The problem with your citrus trees is that they are not getting enough = water. This year has been one of the driest and hottest years on record = consequently if the trees did not receive adequate water they have = suffered. Here in the low desert during summer citrus trees should be = deep watered every 7 to 10 days. Check out this site for info on proper citrus irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Good luck. Rod McKusick Master gardener -----Original Message----- From: DaveLong2000@cs.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, December 02, 2002 8:29 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Saving Citrus Trees Greetings,=20 I am well-aware that citrus trees are not what the "arid gardener" = would recommend but I am desparate to know why my seven 13-year old = trees are doing so poorly. One died two years ago while most of the = others have dropped an inordinate amount of leaves (as well as immature = fruit) this year and some branches have dried up and can be snapped off! = There are far fewer oranges this year and both the lemon tree (normally = full of fruit) and one of the tangerine trees are bearing nothing. I = have not changed fertilizing habits (three times annually according to = instructions) and deep water the trees in summer (about 3 hours each) = approximately every three weeks. The tree leaves look more or less = normal so that I don't suspect any disease but don't know what else it = could be unless I need to water much more than I have been. My fear is = that things might go from bad to worse and I will lose mature trees. My = question is: "Has the drought been especially hard on citrus trees over = th! e last couple of years or are there any other measures that I should = be taking to assure that my trees survive and flourish next season?"=20 Many thanks for considering this problem.=20 Dave Long=20 Fountain Hills =20 ------=_NextPart_000_0036_01C29A13.A1141820 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Dave

The problem with your citrus trees is that they are = not=20 getting enough water. This year has been one of the driest and hottest = years on=20 record consequently if the trees did not receive adequate water they = have=20 suffered. Here in the low desert during summer citrus trees should be=20 deep watered every 7 to 10 days.

Check out this site for info on proper citrus=20 irrigation:

http://ag.arizona.ed= u/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf

Good luck.

Rod McKusick

Master gardener

-----Original=20 Message-----
From: DaveLong2000@cs.com <DaveLong2000@cs.com>
To: = arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu = <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Date:=20 Monday, December 02, 2002 8:29 AM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Saving=20 Citrus Trees

Greetings,
I am well-aware = that citrus=20 trees are not what the "arid gardener" would recommend but I am = desparate to=20 know why my seven 13-year old trees are doing so poorly. One died two = years=20 ago while most of the others have dropped an inordinate amount of = leaves (as=20 well as immature fruit) this year and some branches have dried up and = can be=20 snapped off! There are far fewer oranges this year and both the lemon = tree=20 (normally full of fruit) and one of the tangerine trees are bearing = nothing. I=20 have not changed fertilizing habits (three times annually according to = instructions) and deep water the trees in summer (about 3 hours each)=20 approximately every three weeks. The tree leaves look more or less = normal so=20 that I don't suspect any disease but don't know what else it could be = unless I=20 need to water much more than I have been. My fear is that things might = go from=20 bad to worse and I will lose mature trees. My question is: "Has the = drought=20 been especially hard on citrus trees over th! e last couple of years = or are=20 there any other measures that I should be taking to assure that my = trees=20 survive and flourish next season?"
Many thanks for considering = this=20 problem.
Dave Long
Fountain Hills =20 ------=_NextPart_000_0036_01C29A13.A1141820-- From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Mon Dec 2 22:15:43 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 15:15:43 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pearl Scale Message-ID: <004001c29a50$5be9b7e0$fa2c0a3f@ibmbna6040> Check out this excellent article by Terry Mikel of University of Arizona Coperative Extension describing pearl scale and how to treat it found on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening/news/azrepublic/pearlsc.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: dlrschce@dancris.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Friday, November 29, 2002 10:01 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >My Lawn is about 9 years old, bermuda grass. Initially we had sod put down. We had one are where the grass acted like it was not getting enough water, dried out, and then died out leaving bare spots of dirt.The dirt looks like something has been digging in it , like a bird or something. > >It has spread over the years and now is in about 1/3 of the lawn. where the bare dirt is, the dirt is loose and fluffy, for lack of a better word. I think this is pearl scale damage. > >If it is Pearl scale, how do you get rid of the insects. Nobody seems to have a good answer. Can you get rid of it by taking the grass out with about an inch of dirt? > >What pesticides would kill the Pearl scale? >I believe the sod we had put down in 1993 was infected before we got it. > >Joe Price >Mesa > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From gpoole1@peoplepc.com Mon Dec 2 22:10:40 2002 From: gpoole1@peoplepc.com (Greg Poole) Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 15:10:40 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite - Growth Inhibitor Message-ID: <010501c29a4f$c82a3b60$35c095ce@ibm22761658747> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00FC_01C29A14.F9F98D20 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I understand that there is a product that can be applied to the base of = a mesquite tree that will inhibit growth of shoot at the bottom of the = tree. I have researched this and can find nothing. Does anyone have any = clue what this product might be ?=20 thanks Greg=20 ------=_NextPart_000_00FC_01C29A14.F9F98D20 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I understand that there is a product that can be = applied to=20 the base of a mesquite tree that will inhibit growth of shoot at the = bottom of=20 the tree. I have researched this and can find nothing. Does anyone have = any clue=20 what this product might be ?

thanks

Greg

------=_NextPart_000_00FC_01C29A14.F9F98D20-- From imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net Mon Dec 2 22:25:29 2002 From: imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 15:25:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Fairy Dusters Booming References: <003701c2999b$79923200$79246244@ph.cox.net> Message-ID: <01c901c29a51$c1664a10$d957530c@delljor9501> We have 2 types of Fairy Duster. One has delicate pink blossoms and blooms in the spring but it has a few rather inconspicuous blossoms right now. It was started from seed collected in the Superstitions. I believe it is Calliandra eriophylla. The other one is a Baja Fairy Duster, Calliandra californica, and it blooms all year long. It has dark green foliage and bright red flowers. It is bloom right now but the blossoms are fewer than when the temps are higher and the days are longer. I suspect your "Little John" may be a Bottle Brush, Callistemon viminalis. If so, it would bloom continuously except during the hot summer months. Try a web search to see if it is Callistemon. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lee and Myrna" <4landm@cox.net> >I have 2 different kind of fairy dusters. One is a little John and the other has fern-type leaves. Neither are blooming now, although they appear to be healthy. Is there something I can do to speed up the blooming or start the blooming process? Lee From imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 3 03:37:31 2002 From: imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 20:37:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Fairy Dusters Booming References: <003701c2999b$79923200$79246244@ph.cox.net> <01c901c29a51$c1664a10$d957530c@delljor9501> <001401c29a6c$cf08c880$79246244@ph.cox.net> Message-ID: <000d01c29a7d$53c7d5b0$e052530c@delljor9501> According to Sunset's Western Garden Book, Little John blooms in the fall, winter and spring. But that probably means in California climates. We have never seen any need to fertilize our FDs. But maybe yours are getting too much water. Our Baja FD is on the same drip irrigation circuit as the yellow bells and oleanders which are watered weekly overnight in the hot part of the summer and monthly right now. The pink fairy duster is on the same drip system as our agaves and gets about half as much water. Note that in the native desert, the pink fairy duster gets no supplemental irrigation. As far as getting the fairy dusters to bloom, I wouldn't worry about it until spring. -Olin . ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lee and Myrna" <4landm@cox.net> To: "olin" ,Sent: Monday, December 02, 2002 6:39 PM >Thanx Olin. Yes our Little John is the callistemon viminalis, and I also have 2 Calliandra californica and one calliandra chamaedrys and it looks like the web site I found on those two indicate blooming as late as Sept. Nothing stated about the "Little Johns", though. From rmford1@mindspring.com Tue Dec 3 03:51:55 2002 From: rmford1@mindspring.com (Renea Ford) Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 20:51:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Scrawny mesquite Message-ID: <000c01c29a7f$53e16640$4fd356d1@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C29A44.A61A72C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have a two-year old mesquite that has, starting this past summer, lost = all of its leaves except for the last 8 inches or so of the branches. = It is watered the same as the others in the yard and they are doing = fine. (The others still have the majority of their leaves in spite of = the cooler weather.) It does not look diseased, just extremely scrawny. = Could it be due to poor root system development? Perhaps, it needs = even more water? Thanks, Renea=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C29A44.A61A72C0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I have a two-year old mesquite that has, starting this past=20 summer, lost all of its leaves except for the last 8 inches or so = of the=20 branches. It is watered the same as the others in the yard and = they are=20 doing fine. (The others still have the majority of their leaves in = spite=20 of the cooler weather.) It does not look diseased, just extremely=20 scrawny. Could it be due to poor root system development? = Perhaps,=20 it needs even more water?

Thanks,

Renea

------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C29A44.A61A72C0-- From OBONANZA@aol.com Tue Dec 3 15:39:36 2002 From: OBONANZA@aol.com (OBONANZA@aol.com) Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 10:39:36 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] How do I get rid of gophers in my yard ? Message-ID: <1ac.cf6f009.2b1e2a38@aol.com> From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Dec 3 22:15:57 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2002 22:15:57 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] How do I get rid of gophers in my yard ? Message-ID: You will probably need to dig into the gopher tunnels and set traps to kill them. The Master Gardener Manual has a chapter on vertebrate pests. http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/pests/intro.html#vertebrate It includes information about trapping and other methods of control. The theme of the chapter is: PREVENTION IS LONG TERM -- CONTROL IS SHORT TERM find out ways to prevent gophers if possible. Good Luck! Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: OBONANZA@aol.com >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] How do I get rid of gophers in my yard ? >Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 10:39:36 EST > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Dec 3 22:53:38 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2002 22:53:38 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] excluding javelina Message-ID: A sturdy barrier is the only solution I can offer. Your garden is a whole lot more succulent and luscious than the desert vegetation. Javelina can be difficult to control; if the food is tempting enough I don't think a light would deter them for long. If you could trigger a recording of a barking dog with the light, that might be more effective (But your neighbors may not appreciate it) Here are some references that might help: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/library/ref-wld.htm Arizona Game & Fish Department. (1996) Urban Wildlife Public Information Manual. Phoenix: Urban Heritage Fund. (Available from The Arizona Game & Fish Department, 2221 W Greenway, Phoenix, AZ 85023, (602)942-3000) Provides procedures for handling specific problems including description of animal, problem diagnosis, self help strategies, when to seek professional assistance, and pertinent laws and policies. Covers Big Game,Other Mammals, Birds, Reptiles & Amphibians, and Fish; Includes description and contact information for Agencies and Organizations that assist with wildlife management problems; General Information; and Policies and Procedures of the Arizona Game and Fish Department. Hygnstrom, S., Timm R. M., Larson, G.(1994) Prevention and Control of Wildlife Damage Lincoln: University of Nebraska Cooperative Extension, USDA_APHIS-Wildlife Services Animal Damage Control, and Great Plains Agricultural Council. (Available from Wildlife Damage Handbook, 202 Natural Resources Hall, University of Nebraska, Lincoln, NE 68583-0819 Contains sections on Damage Identification, Rodents, Carnivores, Other Mammals, Birds, Reptiles & Amphibians, etc., Vertebrate Pesticides, Supplies and Materials, Index of Manufacturers and Suppliers, and Index of Product and Trade Names. Sample chapters in pdf format: (note: very slow to load but worth the wait):deer, tree squirrels, cottontail rabbits and pigeons available on the web. Tim McGill, distribution coordinator: (402) 472-3023 Hoffa, R. L. (1996) Coexisting with Urban Wildlife: A guide to Central Arizona Uplands. Prescott, AZ:Sharlot Hall Museum Press A "Good Neighbor Guide", filled with practical information about the needs of wildlife along with methods for encouraging or discouraging animal visits and ways of avoiding or solving animal problems. This book will help you to identify, understand, and appreciate the animals of this area. ISBN 0-927579-07-3 Salmon, T. P. and Lickliter, R. E. (1984) Wildlife Pest Control Around Gardens and Homes.Oakland:University of California. Overview; Quick Identification Guide for Birds and Mammals; Management Strategies for: Birds, Deer,Ground squirrels, Meadow Voles, Moles, Pocket Gophers, Rabbits, Rats and Mice, and Tree Squirrels; and Glossary. ISBN 0-931876-66-4 Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: isgrock@msn.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2002 16:35:50 -0700 (MST) > >How can javelinas be discouraged from foraging on property in housing >developments? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Dec 3 22:57:48 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2002 22:57:48 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Composting oleander leaves Message-ID: Oleander is O.K. to compost. Unused citrus fruit is O.K., too, as long as it isn't diseased. You will need to chop fruit into small pieces to compost effectively. The Sept/Nov 1999 issue of the trade journal Southwest Horticulture had an article about compost made with oleander and eucalyptus. Dr. Jimmy Tipton and Libby Davison from the Dept. of Plant Science University of Arizona conducted these tests. The following are quotes from that article. "There was no apparent phytotoxic effect of either eucalyptus or oleander compost. In fact, plant characteristics generally increased with increasing portion of either in the medium. Plants grown in a medium containing either compost were not significantly different from, or were superior to, plants grown in CM (commercially-available medium)." "These results suggest that whatever phytotoxic compounds that may be present in eucalyptus or oleander where destroyed by composting." Thanks to Annette Weaver for pulling this information. Lucy Bradley >From: "Beverly Pitchford" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Composting oleander leaves >Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2002 22:36:02 -0700 > >I am interested in composting. My main "raw material" will be oleander >leaves. I had heard they are somewhat noxious to other plants and >animals. Does this impact their suitability for composting? Same >question for unused citrus fruit (grapefruit, orange, etc.). THANKS _________________________________________________________________ Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 From watsontl@mindspring.com Wed Dec 4 15:24:51 2002 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (watsontl@mindspring.com) Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 10:24:51 -0500 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Composting oleander leaves Message-ID: You know, I've been worried about the oleander leaves I can't avoid sweeping up (when I "harvest" my yard waste for composting) for years. I always assumed I was getting away with it because the oleander did not make up the bulk of what I was composting. This is good news. Tom On Tue, 03 Dec 2002 22:57:48 +0000 Linda Drew wrote: > Oleander is O.K. to compost. Unused citrus > fruit is O.K., too, > as long as it isn't diseased. You will need to > chop fruit into > small pieces to compost effectively. > > > > The Sept/Nov 1999 issue of the trade journal > Southwest > Horticulture had an article about compost made > with oleander and > eucalyptus. Dr. Jimmy Tipton and Libby Davison > from the Dept. of Plant > Science University of Arizona conducted these > tests. > > The following are quotes from that article. > > "There was no apparent phytotoxic effect of > either eucalyptus or oleander > compost. In fact, plant characteristics > generally increased with > increasing portion of either in the medium. > Plants grown in a medium > containing either compost were not > significantly different from, or were > superior to, plants grown in CM > (commercially-available medium)." > > "These results suggest that whatever phytotoxic > compounds that may be > present in eucalyptus or oleander where > destroyed by composting." > > Thanks to Annette Weaver for pulling this > information. > > Lucy Bradley > > > > > >From: "Beverly Pitchford" > >To: > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Composting oleander > leaves > >Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2002 22:36:02 -0700 > > > >I am interested in composting. My main "raw > material" will be oleander > >leaves. I had heard they are somewhat noxious > to other plants and > >animals. Does this impact their suitability > for composting? Same > >question for unused citrus fruit (grapefruit, > orange, etc.). THANKS > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan > Online > http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From fittedshirt@hotmail.com Wed Dec 4 17:50:45 2002 From: fittedshirt@hotmail.com (Thomas Homans) Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 10:50:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] yellow bells/orange jubilee/mystery plant Message-ID: Two quick questions, I have 3 yellow bells and 6 orange jubilees scattered around the back yard. All of them are putting out nice growth at the top, but the bottoms are browning around the edges of the leaves, so much so that the they are naked around the stalks. Is this the natural growth habit of these guys, or should I be concerned about something else, like over or under watering. How much SHOULD I be watering these in the winter and summer? I understand their pretty drought tolerant once established, but how many months in the ground is considered established? Also, I bought some groundcover back in June, and didn't keep the stake that had the name on it. I'm hoping you might know what it is by description. The plant is low lying, and has fernlike leaves, that put out a multitude of yellow daisy like flowers, that are approx. 3 cm in diameter. The leaves smell like mint, and they are growing outward away from the center of the plant, but not attaching that I can tell. The cool weather hasn't effected them, so I'm hoping these are not annuals. Any ideas? thanks tom _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus From gregcorman@sprintmail.com Wed Dec 4 18:09:24 2002 From: gregcorman@sprintmail.com (Greg Corman) Date: Wed, 4 Dec 02 11:09:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Press release for "Think Small" project Message-ID: Hello, Here is a press release for a project on small trees that will be of interest to Master Gardeners. Thanks. Greg Corman Tucson Botanical Gardens Press Release for Think Small Project �Think Small� Small Trees for Urban Spaces in Southern Arizona Trees are usually the largest and most important components of a landscape, so getting the �right trees for the right places� is essential for a design that will function well and look good. This might seem obvious, but poor tree choices are common and it�s not hard to find evidence like �truck-pruned� street trees, mangled plantings under utility wires, and topped trees near billboards. These problems are often the result of putting BIG trees where SMALL trees would have been better. We need to �Think Small� when planting in urban areas. Thinking Small is not difficult either. There are many small tree species that thrive in the desert areas of southern Arizona. They average 20 feet tall or less at maturity and can be pruned to have single or multiple trunks and a raised canopy. The trees are low or moderate water users and are proven to tolerate the heat and cold of this area. �Think Small�, a project of the Tucson Botanical Gardens (TBG), is designed to get the word out about small trees. Descriptions and photographs of great small trees for southern Arizona are available on the TBG website at Tucsonbotanical.org. (NOTE: WILL BE POSTED BY LATE DECEMBER, 2002) There is also a PDF version of the information that we encourage users to copy and share for classes, clients or other uses. An interactive CD of tree descriptions and photos is also available, free of charge, to landscape architects, designers, parks departments, and other individuals and organizations that are responsible for specifying trees for projects. Email or write TBG for the CD including your business name and address. �Think Small� is funded by a Community Challenge Grant from the Arizona State Land Department, Office of Urban and Community Forestry. Greg Corman Horticultural Information Specialist Tucson Botanical Gardens 2150 N. Alvernon Way Tucson, AZ. 85712 (520) 326-9686 ext. 20 library@tucsonbotanical.org From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Wed Dec 4 22:06:00 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 15:06:00 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] yellow bells/orange jubilee/mystery plant Message-ID: <001a01c29be1$55631960$ea31db43@ibmbna6040> Thomas, I suspect that you may not be giving your shrubs enough water. Please check out these sites for info on proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://www.amwua.org/xscp-wateringschedules.htm Could the ground cover that you are trying to identify be Lantana ? Lantana is classified as a shrub but is sometimes sold for ground cover. The foliage has a pungent odor, I suppose it could be called mint like. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: Thomas Homans To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Wednesday, December 04, 2002 11:24 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] yellow bells/orange jubilee/mystery plant >Two quick questions, > >I have 3 yellow bells and 6 orange jubilees scattered around the back yard. >All of them are putting out nice growth at the top, but the bottoms are >browning around the edges of the leaves, so much so that the they are naked >around the stalks. Is this the natural growth habit of these guys, or >should I be concerned about something else, like over or under watering. >How much SHOULD I be watering these in the winter and summer? I understand >their pretty drought tolerant once established, but how many months in the >ground is considered established? > >Also, I bought some groundcover back in June, and didn't keep the stake that >had the name on it. I'm hoping you might know what it is by description. >The plant is low lying, and has fernlike leaves, that put out a multitude of >yellow daisy like flowers, that are approx. 3 cm in diameter. The leaves >smell like mint, and they are growing outward away from the center of the >plant, but not attaching that I can tell. The cool weather hasn't effected >them, so I'm hoping these are not annuals. Any ideas? > >thanks >tom > > > > > >_________________________________________________________________ >MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE*. >http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From minman@sbcglobal.net Thu Dec 5 05:20:37 2002 From: minman@sbcglobal.net (minman@sbcglobal.net) Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 22:20:37 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200212050520.gB55KbN22311@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a majestic palm which I bought recently and keep indoors. I would like to find out how much and how often to water this plant. It is large: two fronds are over 6' and another are two are around 5'. Also, is there some way to know when the plant needs water? Thank you. From rmford1@mindspring.com Thu Dec 5 18:25:06 2002 From: rmford1@mindspring.com (Renea Ford) Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 11:25:06 -0700 Subject: Fw: [Arid_gardener] Scrawny mesquite Message-ID: <002a01c29c8b$a35d8ec0$23c656d1@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0027_01C29C50.F61B5BA0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Renea Ford=20 To: Master Gardener=20 Sent: Monday, December 02, 2002 8:51 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Scrawny mesquite I have a two-year old mesquite that has, starting this past summer, lost = all of its leaves except for the last 8 inches or so of the branches. = It is watered the same as the others in the yard and they are doing = fine. (The others still have the majority of their leaves in spite of = the cooler weather.) It does not look diseased, just extremely scrawny. = Could it be due to poor root system development? Perhaps, it needs = even more water? Thanks, Renea=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0027_01C29C50.F61B5BA0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

----- Original Message -----=20

From: Renea Ford=20

To: Master Gardener

Sent: Monday, December 02, 2002 8:51 PM

Subject: [Arid_gardener] Scrawny mesquite

Thanks,

Renea

------=_NextPart_000_0027_01C29C50.F61B5BA0-- From jamgraham@sprintmail.com Thu Dec 5 22:04:57 2002 From: jamgraham@sprintmail.com (jamgraham@sprintmail.com) Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2002 15:04:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200212052204.gB5M4uN28762@Ag.arizona.edu> Could you please tell me the name of a climbing rose that would grow well on west facing wall. Thank you very much. Julie From gizmoaz@cox.net Thu Dec 5 23:05:30 2002 From: gizmoaz@cox.net (GizmoAZ) Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 16:05:30 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200212052204.gB5M4uN28762@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3DEFDBBA.2080908@cox.net> Below are two climbing roses that I have, and have had good luck with on a west facing wall. The best of all for myself has been Fourth of July. You can see pictures of it on it's west facing wall at my website, at this link: http://www.gardenerscorner.com/4thofJuly.html Another that has done well for me on a west facing wall, but will be harder to find is Rosarium Uetersen, if you like the old fashion looking roses: http://www.gardenerscorner.com/RosariumUeteresen.html Fourth of July would be my very favorite only because it has better repeat bloom than Rosarium Ueteresen. Fourth of July is almost always in bloom! ----- Chat with you later... ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 *** Lots of new Gardeners Garden Pics on the "My Friends Gardens Pages...check it out!!!. *** http://www.GardenersCorner.com ----- Smash forehead on keyboard to continue jamgraham@sprintmail.com wrote: >Could you please tell me the name of a climbing rose that would grow well on west facing wall. >Thank you very much. >Julie > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > -- From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Fri Dec 6 15:41:01 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 08:41:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rose for a west facing wall Message-ID: <000601c29d3d$e45903c0$a11d0a3f@ibmbna6040> Julie, I don't believe that there is a rose that will survive on a west facing wall here in the low desert. It is recommended that roses be planted on the east side of the house or a wall where they will get the morning sun and be shaded from the PM sun. The roses might survive on the west wall if they were covered with at least a 50% shade screen. You may get an answer from someone that has sucessfully planted a climbing rose on the west wall. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian -----Original Message----- From: jamgraham@sprintmail.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Thursday, December 05, 2002 3:24 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Could you please tell me the name of a climbing rose that would grow well on west facing wall. >Thank you very much. >Julie > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From hojo60@worldnet.att.net Fri Dec 6 21:28:39 2002 From: hojo60@worldnet.att.net (hojo60@worldnet.att.net) Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 14:28:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200212062128.gB6LSdN03287@Ag.arizona.edu> Cause of leaf curl on outdoor container grown grapefruit and mandarin trees. Some leaves curl from the sides, some from the middle. Leaves stay dark green and have light green lines the length of the leaf. Have a lemon tree growing in the ground that is not affected. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Dec 6 23:51:02 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2002 23:51:02 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] citrus leaf curl Message-ID: The symptoms you describe sound like thrip damage. Thrips are very small insects; the damage they cause is cosmetic, it doesn't hurt the tree. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: hojo60@worldnet.att.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 14:28:39 -0700 (MST) > >Cause of leaf curl on outdoor container grown grapefruit and mandarin >trees. Some leaves curl from the sides, some from the middle. Leaves stay >dark green and have light green lines the length of the leaf. > >Have a lemon tree growing in the ground that is not affected. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Tired of spam? Get advanced junk mail protection with MSN 8. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From umiller@azdps.com Sun Dec 8 01:39:55 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2002 18:39:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus leaves curling In-Reply-To: <200212062128.gB6LSdN03287@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Shoot them with a strong shot of water. You probably have thrips which cause the curling; they are hard to see. The water will probably get rid of the thrips. Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of hojo60@worldnet.att.net Sent: Friday, December 06, 2002 2:29 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Cause of leaf curl on outdoor container grown grapefruit and mandarin trees. Some leaves curl from the sides, some from the middle. Leaves stay dark green and have light green lines the length of the leaf. Have a lemon tree growing in the ground that is not affected. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net Mon Dec 9 17:30:26 2002 From: imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 10:30:26 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] yellow bells/orange jubilee/mystery plant References: <001a01c29be1$55631960$ea31db43@ibmbna6040> Message-ID: <007501c29fad$1262f930$d751530c@delljor9501> Loss of foliage for Yellow Bells is common in winter and is to be expected. You probably have the narrow leaf AZ Yellow Bells (Tecoma stans, var. augustata) which tends to be winter-dormant in our "colder valley location" in NW Phoenix. Some winters they will lose all of their leaves. Blooms from spring through fall with deep, infrequent (monthly) irrigation, but water should be reduced or withheld in late fall to minimize the possibility of damage due to frost. Although they do not need much water in the summer, they will bloom more profusely with more watering. Once established, they require only infrequent irrigation. Another, larger Yellow Bells variety (T. stans, var. stans - a.k.a. Stenolobium stans) is also pretty common in some of the older areas of Phoenix but is seldom seen in newer home landscapes. They tend to get twice as big, have larger leaves but similar trumpet-shaped flowers and need to be fertilized to encourage blossoms. We have one Orange Jubilee and it does not seem to die back in winter like the Yellow Bells. It has stays green all year and blooms continuously except from mid December through February. I haven't observe any winter leaf drop but we have only had it a few years and the winters have been warmer. Olin -----Original Message----- From: Thomas Homans To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Wednesday, December 04, 2002 11:24 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] yellow bells/orange jubilee/mystery plant >Two quick questions, > >I have 3 yellow bells and 6 orange jubilees scattered around the back yard. >All of them are putting out nice growth at the top, but the bottoms are >browning around the edges of the leaves, so much so that the they are naked >around the stalks. Is this the natural growth habit of these guys, or >should I be concerned about something else, like over or under watering. >How much SHOULD I be watering these in the winter and summer? I understand >their pretty drought tolerant once established, but how many months in the >ground is considered established? >... From cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu Mon Dec 9 18:14:29 2002 From: cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu (Carol Noyes) Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 11:14:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bark Beetle Seminar in Sedona December 18 Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20021209103223.00ada9f0@ag.arizona.edu> Got Bark Beetles? Recent drought conditions have allowed bark beetles populations to increase across the southwest. Bark beetles have been especially active in Ponderosa Pine and Arizona Cypress. Many residents are very concerned about the loss of trees on their property and on surrounding National Forest lands. These insects are native and part of our local ecosystems and we can learn how to live with them while minimizing damage to high-value landscape trees. Attend this seminar to learn more about cypress and pine bark beetles. The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension, Yavapai County is offering this free forest health seminar at the Pushmataha Center (Keep Sedona Beautiful), 360 Brewer Rd. on Wednesday December 18, 2002 from 9:00 AM to noon. The presentation will be given by Cooperative Extension Agent Jeff Schalau. Topics will include bark beetle biology, impacts to the local forest, and bark beetle damage prevention. There will be ample time provided for questions from the audience. Contact information: Yavapai County Extension, P.O. Box 388 Prescott, AZ 86302. (928) 445-6597 From cchare@qwest.net Thu Dec 12 19:00:18 2002 From: cchare@qwest.net (cchare@qwest.net) Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 12:00:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200212121900.gBCJ0Ip21156@Ag.arizona.edu> I have petunias growing in pots, and something is eating them. I see quail sitting on the pot edges and we do have rabbits. Is there something I can put in the pots to deter theM? By the way, do the birds eat the blooms? Thanks. From kokolas@sbcglobal.net Thu Dec 12 11:10:20 2002 From: kokolas@sbcglobal.net (Lynn Wilson) Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 13:10:20 +0200 Subject: [Arid_gardener] White Fuzzy stuff Message-ID: <000a01c2a1cf$11122820$9205fea9@thewilso> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C2A1DF.D3114AE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hello fellow gardener, not really a gardner myself but I do have a mature orange tree and it = produces throughtout the year. This year I have noticed that there is a = white fuzzy substance on the back of the leaves, do you have any idea = what this could be?=20 Signed, a little reluctant to eat the fruit or give it away. ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C2A1DF.D3114AE0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hello = fellow gardener,

not really a gardner myself but I do = have a=20 mature orange tree and it produces throughtout the year. This year = I have=20 noticed that there is a white fuzzy substance on the back of the leaves, = do you=20 have any idea what this could be?

Signed,

a little reluctant to eat the fruit = or give it=20 away.

------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C2A1DF.D3114AE0-- From umiller@azdps.com Thu Dec 12 23:22:13 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 16:22:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Something Eating Petunias In-Reply-To: <200212121900.gBCJ0Ip21156@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: I don't know about quail or other birds, but rabbits will eat petunias like you and I would eat a salad at the Olive Garden. I hate to say this, but I never did find a way of keeping rabbits out of my potted plants - none of the tricks that I heard about worked. So I just stopped planting petunias in the pots and put in geraniums. Rabbits don't eat geraniums. Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of cchare@qwest.net Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2002 12:00 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have petunias growing in pots, and something is eating them. I see quail sitting on the pot edges and we do have rabbits. Is there something I can put in the pots to deter theM? By the way, do the birds eat the blooms? Thanks. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From umiller@azdps.com Thu Dec 12 23:45:20 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 16:45:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] White Fuzzy stuff In-Reply-To: <000a01c2a1cf$11122820$9205fea9@thewilso> Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0028_01C2A1FD.DB9702E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Sounds like citrus mealybugs to me. They look like cottony fluff. One way to get rid of them is to spray the leaves with a horticultural oil that you can buy in garden centers. I wouldn�t worry about eating the fruit but I wouldn�t eat the leaves. :-) Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Lynn Wilson Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2002 4:10 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] White Fuzzy stuff Hello fellow gardener, not really a gardner myself but I do have a mature orange tree and it produces throughtout the year. This year I have noticed that there is a white fuzzy substance on the back of the leaves, do you have any idea what this could be? Signed, a little reluctant to eat the fruit or give it away. ------=_NextPart_000_0028_01C2A1FD.DB9702E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

So= unds like citrus mealybugs to me. = They look like cottony fluff. = One way to get rid of them is to spray the leaves with a horticultural oil that = you can buy in garden centers. =

I = wouldn’t worry about eating the fruit but I wouldn’t eat the leaves. J

Ursula Miller

Not = a Master Gardener

<= span class=3DEmailStyle16>

-----Original Message-----
From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu = [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Lynn Wilson
Sent: Thursday, December = 12, 2002 4:10 AM
To: = arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = White Fuzzy stuff

Hello fellow gardener,

not really a gardner myself but I do have a mature orange tree and it produces throughtout the year. This year I have noticed that there is a white = fuzzy substance on the back of the leaves, do you have any idea what this = could be?

Signed,

a little reluctant to eat the fruit or give it away.

------=_NextPart_000_0028_01C2A1FD.DB9702E0-- From CSpringer@evit.com Fri Dec 13 13:37:14 2002 From: CSpringer@evit.com (Cheryl Springer) Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 06:37:14 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rosarian Needed!!! Message-ID: This is a MIME message. If you are reading this text, you may want to consider changing to a mail reader or gateway that understands how to properly handle MIME multipart messages. --=_F6AA3FB8.D5B4D277 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Disposition: inline I have serveral concrete planters that I normally change out with annuals. = I would like to change them to permanent plantings....and I would really = like to put in roses! Now, I have some experience with garden roses - = none with containers though. Is there a MG rosarian out there who could = spare some time to give me some expert advice??? You are welcome to reach = me at either of these numbers: (480) 461-4189 or (480) 231-0909. Thanks = everyone! Joyous holiday wishes to all!!!=20 --=_F6AA3FB8.D5B4D277 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="TEXT.htm" I have serveral concrete planters that I normally change out with annuals. I would like to change them to permanent plantings....and I would really like to put in roses! Now, I have some experience with garden roses - none with containers though. Is there a MG rosarian out there who could spare some time to give me some expert advice??? You are welcome to reach me at either of these numbers: (480) 461-4189 or (480) 231-0909. Thanks everyone! Joyous holiday wishes to all!!! --=_F6AA3FB8.D5B4D277-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Dec 13 16:26:51 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2002 16:26:51 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] White Fuzzy stuff Message-ID: The white fuzzy substance on the underside of the citrus leaves might be caused by an insect such as whitefly or mealybug. Spraying the undersides of the leaves with a soap solution may help, but the colder weather will proabably take care of them. If it is on the upper surface, it might be powdery mildew (a fungus). Usually this isn't much of a problem with citrus, but you will want to dispose of fallen leaves. If you can take some examples to your local Extension Office, they can help identify the problem. The fruit should be safe to eat. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Lynn Wilson" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] White Fuzzy stuff >Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 13:10:20 +0200 > >Hello fellow gardener, > >not really a gardner myself but I do have a mature orange tree and it >produces throughtout the year. This year I have noticed that there is a >white fuzzy substance on the back of the leaves, do you have any idea what >this could be? > >Signed, >a little reluctant to eat the fruit or give it away. > _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Dec 16 01:42:45 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 18:42:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: Side shoots on newly planted queen palm] Message-ID: <3DFD2F95.4080105@qwest.net> --------------020402020005020202040805 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Would someone kindly reply? Many thanks. Linda -------- Original Message -------- Subject: Side shoots on newly planted queen palm Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 11:06:13 -0700 From: "Beaton Neil-r27368" To: "'lindaguy@qwest.net'" Linda, I planted a 15 gal Queen Palm over the weekend, the treee is about 8 feet tall and has a small side shoot or "pup" with two fronds on it, what should I do about this, leave it or remove it and if I am to remove it when should this be done and do I use one of the protectant sprays/paint to protect it one I have removed the small "trunk" ? many thanks. Neil. --------------020402020005020202040805 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Would someone kindly reply? Many thanks. Linda

-------- Original Message --------

Subject:	Side shoots on newly planted queen palm
Date:	Mon, 2 Dec 2002 11:06:13 -0700
From:	"Beaton Neil-r27368" <Neil.Beaton@motorola.com>
To:	"'lindaguy@qwest.net'" <lindaguy@qwest.net>

Linda,

I planted a 15 gal Queen Palm over the weekend, the treee is about 8 feet tall and has a small side shoot or "pup" with two fronds on it, what should I do about this, leave it or remove it and if I am to remove it when should this be done and do I use one of the protectant sprays/paint to protect it one I have removed the small "trunk" ? many thanks.

Neil.

--------------020402020005020202040805-- From bothsouthern@aol.com Mon Dec 16 13:42:13 2002 From: bothsouthern@aol.com (bothsouthern@aol.com) Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 06:42:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200212161342.gBGDgDp00612@Ag.arizona.edu> My daughter and I would like to have a Christmas Catus - white in color and cannot locate one locally. Can you suggest where I might order one? Thank you - From heidphipps@aol.com Sat Dec 14 23:35:06 2002 From: heidphipps@aol.com (heidphipps@aol.com) Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2002 16:35:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200212142335.gBENZ6p02405@Ag.arizona.edu> we live in a desert area in east mesa.We have foothill palo verde,palo brea,desert mesquite,and weeping acacia trees that are infested with some kind of bore.The trunks of these trees have holes and some of the bark is coming off.The holes are weeping sap.Please help us determine the problem so we don't loose all the trees we have planted. thankyou,Heidi. From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Mon Dec 16 22:39:50 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 15:39:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rosarian Needed!!! Message-ID: <003501c2a554$0cab8b40$aa2c0a3f@ibmbna6040> Hi Cheryl, I will be happy to help you get started with roses. An article that was published in the Republic last year should get you off to a good start and follows. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian December and January is an exciting time of year for rose lovers, second only to the spring and fall blooming time. The nurseries will be receiving their new stock of roses in mid December, and we rosarians all look forward with anticipation the new rose varieties. For the best selection of varieties don't delay. If you wait until late January you may have trouble finding that favorite rose. You have three options as to where to buy roses: 1. Nurseries, 2. Mail order, 3. Discounters. There is also the option of buying either bare root or potted. My preference is to buy bare root from a nursery that stores the roses in a sawdust bin. The roots of roses stored in a sawdust bin can be examined, and if you don't like the appearance of the roots you don't have to buy. With a packaged rose you don't have that option. After the middle of February my preference is to buy potted roses because they have already started the rooting process, and the chances of survival are much better. If you are unable to find the variety wanted locally, then your only option is mail order.If the mail order option is used, again be sure and order early, not only for the best selection, but you won't want bare root roses shipped to the Phoenix area in March. It's time to plant.Dig the hole a month before you plant if possible, replace the soil with amendments and soak well. Do not put fertilizer in the planting hole at this time. Most rose books recommend a planting hole of at least 18 x 18 inches. My recommendation is to make the planting hole 30 x 30 inches, and especially if the soil is dense clay as is found in most of Maricopa county. If you have much caliche your options are to either dig out the caliche or to build raised beds. It's now planting time. Soak the bare root roses over night in water;dig out some of the planting mix, form a cone,spread the rose roots on the cone with the bud graft 2 inches above grade, backfill and water in well. To keep the canes from drying out mound up either the planting mix or mulch around the canes. January is the time to prune roses for those of you who already have them in your garden. Basically cut your hybred teas, florabundas, and minatures back from 1/3 to 1/2 depending on the size; cut out the dead wood, and strip off all the leaves and clean up around the bush. It is always helpful to attend one of the pruning demonstrations held in public rose gardens by most of the rose societies in the valley. Watch the Saturday newspapers home section for time and place. Have problems with roses or have questions to be answered, call the Master Gardner hot line or talk to one of the many Master Gardner Consulting Rosarians. Rod McKusick, Master Gardner and Consulting Rosarian -----Original Message----- From: Cheryl Springer To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, December 16, 2002 8:23 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rosarian Needed!!! I have serveral concrete planters that I normally change out with annuals. I would like to change them to permanent plantings....and I would really like to put in roses! Now, I have some experience with garden roses - none with containers though. Is there a MG rosarian out there who could spare some time to give me some expert advice??? You are welcome to reach me at either of these numbers: (480) 461-4189 or (480) 231-0909. Thanks everyone! Joyous holiday wishes to all!!! From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Mon Dec 16 23:09:41 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 16:09:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Desert trees attacked by borers Message-ID: <005201c2a558$37de0f00$aa2c0a3f@ibmbna6040> Heidi Insects as well as disease are attracted to trees that are under stress and a very common cause of stress in trees is inadequate irrigation. Once the borers become established there is not much one can do except to keep the tree as healthy as possible with proper irrigation and annual fertilization. Check out the info at these sites on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://www.amwua.org/xscp-wateringschedules.htm Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: heidphipps@aol.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, December 16, 2002 8:24 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >we live in a desert area in east mesa.We have foothill palo verde,palo brea,desert mesquite,and weeping acacia trees that are infested with some kind of bore.The trunks of these trees have holes and some of the bark is coming off.The holes are weeping sap.Please help us determine the problem so we don't loose all the trees we have planted. thankyou,Heidi. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From stevendrew@mindspring.com Tue Dec 17 14:28:08 2002 From: stevendrew@mindspring.com (Steven C. Drew) Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 07:28:08 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus Clinic Message-ID: <001101c2a5d8$864ae750$0ccb56d1@Global> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000E_01C2A59D.D8972DB0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Lynn, Please consider yourself invited to the Citrus Clinic that will be held = on January 18th at the Greenfield Citrus Nursery in North Mesa. There will be experts from the Universities and Cooperative Extension = Service to give presentations and answer questions and there will be = dozens of citrus fruits to see and taste. Have you ever seen a Buddha's = Hand citrus? Quite amazing. Hope to see you there! (There will also be a Citrus Clinic on the West side on Jan 25th) ------=_NextPart_000_000E_01C2A59D.D8972DB0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Lynn,

Please consider yourself invited to the = Citrus=20 Clinic that will be held on January 18th at the Greenfield Citrus = Nursery in=20 North Mesa.

There will be experts from the = Universities =20 and Cooperative Extension Service to give presentations and answer = questions and=20 there will be dozens of citrus fruits to see and taste. Have you ever = seen a=20 Buddha's Hand citrus? Quite amazing.

Hope to see you there!

(There will also be a Citrus Clinic on = the West=20 side on Jan 25th)

------=_NextPart_000_000E_01C2A59D.D8972DB0-- From stevendrew@mindspring.com Tue Dec 17 14:39:41 2002 From: stevendrew@mindspring.com (Steven C. Drew) Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 07:39:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roses Message-ID: <001a01c2a5da$2376ff90$0ccb56d1@Global> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0017_01C2A59F.7605F440 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Cheryl, The Mesa East Valley Rose Society has an excellent web site with good = local information on growing roses. www.roses4az-mevrs.org=20 They meet the second Thursday of each month at Mesa Community College = and take care of the awesome rose garden on the North side of the MCC = Campus. Just show up at one of the meetings or any Saturday morning at = the rose garden and you will surrounded by some of the nicest people = you'll ever find and learn so much about roses. Steve Drew ------=_NextPart_000_0017_01C2A59F.7605F440 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Cheryl,

The Mesa East Valley Rose Society has = an excellent=20 web site with good local information on growing roses. www.roses4az-mevrs.org =

They meet the second Thursday of each = month at Mesa=20 Community College and take care of the awesome rose garden on the North = side of=20 the MCC Campus. Just show up at one of the meetings or any Saturday = morning at=20 the rose garden and you will surrounded by some of the nicest people = you'll ever=20 find and learn so much about roses.

Steve Drew

------=_NextPart_000_0017_01C2A59F.7605F440-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Dec 17 19:47:28 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 12:47:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: <3DFF7F50.8080504@qwest.net> --------------050604000005040708070005 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Would someone kindly address Audrey's request. Thanks, Linda -------- Original Message -------- Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 11:23:58 -0000 From: "audrey moore" To: lindaguy@qwest.net i have just perchised 2 tropical bird of paridise and was wondering if you could mail me all info on looking afeter them --------------050604000005040708070005 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Would someone kindly address Audrey's request. Thanks, Linda

-------- Original Message --------

Date:	Tue, 17 Dec 2002 11:23:58 -0000
From:	"audrey moore" <moorea23@eircom.net>
To:	lindaguy@qwest.net

i have just perchised 2 tropical bird of paridise and was wondering if you
could mail me all info on looking afeter them

--------------050604000005040708070005-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Dec 17 22:48:03 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 22:48:03 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tropical Bird of Paradise (Sterlitzia reginae) Message-ID: Here are a few sources for information: http://www.thegardenhelper.com/birdofparadise.htm http://www.plantzafrica.com/plantqrs/strelitziareginae.htm http://www.suite101.com/print_article.cfm/3311/93677 These plants are native to South Africa. They can be grown in Phoenix and Tucson if they are given frost protection in the winter and shade in the summer. They prefer rich soil, heavy feeding, frequent irrigation, and good drainage; they may be grown outdoors in large pots. Linda Drew Master Gardener >-------- Original Message -------- >Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 11:23:58 -0000 >From: "audrey moore" >To: lindaguy@qwest.net > > > >i have just perchised 2 tropical bird of paridise and was wondering if you >could mail me all info on looking afeter them > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From scarter@gpcreative.com Wed Dec 18 16:19:07 2002 From: scarter@gpcreative.com (Steve Carter) Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 10:19:07 -0600 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Live Oak trees Message-ID: > This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. --B_3123051548_11078691 Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit I found this question on the internet from SallyGupta@aol.com- As a newcomer to Texas, I have spent the winter wondering why some of the live oak trees lost their leaves and some didn't. Am I mistaken? The trees sure do look alike. Would really appreciate an answer. Thanks. I live in the Dallas area and have a two year old Live Oak that is losing its leaves this Fall. It is also producing acorns like crazy. I have noticed that other Live Oaks in the area are not doing the same. Did you ever get an answer for your question? If you did, can you explain this to me? Thanks- Steve Carter Griffith Phillips Creative www.gpcreative.com 214.265.0026 --B_3123051548_11078691 Content-type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable Live Oak trees I found this question on the internet from SallyGupta@a= ol.com-

As a newcomer to Texas, I have spent the winter wonde= ring why some of the
live oak trees lost their leaves and some didn't. Am I mistaken? The trees<= BR> sure do look alike. Would really appreciate an answer. Thanks.

I live in the Dallas area and have a two year old Live Oak that is losing i= ts leaves this Fall. It is also producing acorns like crazy. I have noticed = that other Live Oaks in the area are not doing the same.

Did you ever get an answer for your question? If you did, can you explain t= his to me?

Thanks-

Steve Carter
Griffith Phillips Creative
www.gpcreative.com
214.265.0026
--B_3123051548_11078691-- From LBraley99@aol.com Wed Dec 18 21:04:03 2002 From: LBraley99@aol.com (LBraley99@aol.com) Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 16:04:03 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: --part1_b0.31685f2e.2b323cc3_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable i have 3 cactus! the first cactus i brought 8 years ago it beautiful and ver= y=20 large and then the second is about 5 years old and the last one is about 3=20 years old. every year i have beautiful flowers starting write after=20 thanksgiving .. it bloom 2 times before the new year. this year no buds, no=20 flowers. i am worry that there will not bloom this or year. can you tell me=20 why this has happen... please write back to me. =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0= =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0= =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 thankyou --part1_b0.31685f2e.2b323cc3_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable i have 3 cactus! the first cactus i brought 8 years ag= o it beautiful and very large and then the second is about 5 years old and t= he last one is about 3 years old. every year i have beautiful flowers starti= ng write after thanksgiving .. it bloom 2 times before the new year. this ye= ar no buds, no flowers. i am worry that there will not bloom this or year. c= an you tell me why this has happen... please write back to me.
=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0= =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0= =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 thankyou
--part1_b0.31685f2e.2b323cc3_boundary-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Dec 19 13:40:40 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 13:40:40 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] cactus not blooming Message-ID: Can you tell us what kind of cactus these are -- are they Christmas cactus, or do they look more like a column or pole, or are they short and round? Are they growing indoors? Also, some information about how you water and fertilize will help us. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: LBraley99@aol.com >To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) >Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 16:04:03 EST > >i have 3 cactus! the first cactus i brought 8 years ago it beautiful and >very >large and then the second is about 5 years old and the last one is about 3 >years old. every year i have beautiful flowers starting write after >thanksgiving .. it bloom 2 times before the new year. this year no buds, no >flowers. i am worry that there will not bloom this or year. can you tell me >why this has happen... please write back to me. > >thankyou _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Dec 19 15:31:59 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 15:31:59 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] cactus not blooming Message-ID: It sounds like you are giving good care to your Christmas cactus. The repotting may have been responsible for the lack of blooms this year; necessary, but maybe the plant is making new roots instead of flowers. You could try giving the 12 hours of darkness each day for the next month and see if they will set buds this year. (cover with a box at night). If you can find a copy of "Success With HousePlants" at your library it has an excellent section on Christmas cactus. The article may also help. Good luck with your cactus - they sound beautiful. Linda Drew Master Gardener The information below was found at following URL: http://www.ianr.unl.edu/pubs/Horticulture/g187.htm Christmas Cactus There are many new selections of types of Christmas cactus to choose from. Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii), in contrast to arid species of cactus, requires a growing medium with more organic material. A good soil mix consists of two parts peat moss, one part garden soil and one part sand. Good drainage is essential. Fertilize Christmas cactus plants monthly from the time the plants finish blooming through late spring. Reduce fertilizer during fall and early winter. Christmas cactus should be given less water starting in April or May, and continuing to September. This encourages flower bud formation. Once buds set, more water will be needed. Plants can be set outdoors in partial shade in late spring after the last frost, and brought indoors before danger of frost in the fall. Christmas cacti tolerate temperatures of 65-900F during most of the year. Cooler temperatures of 45-550F in the fall aid in flower bud formation. Long periods of direct sunlight can cause sunburning. An east or west window is a good location to maintain a Christmas cactus. These plants often will not flower because of excessive artificial light in the home at night during the fall season. If this is a problem, you may wish to place your plant in an unused room or closet each night, starting in September, until the buds are showing. Christmas cacti commonly drop unopened flower buds. This may be caused by an excessive number of buds or a sudden change in temperature, light or other environmental factors. >From: LBraley99@aol.com >To: drew_linda@hotmail.com >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] cactus not blooming >Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 09:33:08 EST > >these are christmas catus. i water them when the soil is dry. this last >spring i repoted then into larger pots that they could grow bigger. these >pants are very healther and very green. _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail From azwied@cs.com Tue Dec 24 20:49:15 2002 From: azwied@cs.com (azwied@cs.com) Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2002 13:49:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200212242049.gBOKnF103573@Ag.arizona.edu> This past summer we were away for vacation. Neighbor cut and watered lawn. However, when we got back a portion of the lawn was bare. This fall, I thatched the lawn and overseeded with Scott's Sun and Shade Rye grass seed. Seed did not take in the bare areas, and in some places did not take and there were areas of bermudia grass. Re-seeded, but no improvement. What could be the problem and how can I correct it? Thanking you in advance for your help. Bill Wiedbusch From Winebagdave@aol.com Thu Dec 26 00:02:29 2002 From: Winebagdave@aol.com (Winebagdave@aol.com) Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 19:02:29 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Screwbean Mesquite Message-ID: <78.33d2227d.2b3ba115@aol.com> I have a Screwbean Mesquite tree that my wife grew from seed about 10 years ago. It is quite large and has a trunk girth of about 30 inches. I was thinning some of the undesirable branches from it the other day, and I noticed a lot of black granular matter on the ground around the base of the trunk. Furthur inspection revealed some flat, oval bodied, pointed head, brownish grey beetles, about the size of an average little finger nail. They are under the shaggy bark. I noticed the same granular material in the first crotch of the tree (about six feet off the ground). Are these beetles a serious threat to my tree? Can the shaggy bark be stripped to effectively spray these pests? What spray is effective? I live near Victorville in the California Mojave Desert. Thank you for your time, Dave Anderson From kimj@absolutesolutions.biz Mon Dec 23 20:01:40 2002 From: kimj@absolutesolutions.biz (Kimberly Jacobson) Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 14:01:40 -0600 Subject: [Arid_gardener] cactus help Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0081_01C2AA8B.D129F880 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have a cactus that has been growing great (we named him Too-Tall), He is over 5 feet tall and 2 feet wide. The problem is, for no apparent reason he is turning yellow and looks sickly. Any ideas? Too-Tall has been in the family for years and I'd hate to be responsible for his death. He is so cool! (I got your e-mail address from a different response posted on the internet.) Kimberly Jacobson Absolute Solutions Office Manager 651-287-3020 X 100 Kimj@AbsoluteSolutions.biz ------=_NextPart_000_0081_01C2AA8B.D129F880 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I have a cactus = that has been=20 growing great (we named him Too-Tall), He is over 5 feet tall and 2 feet = wide. The problem is, for no apparent reason he is turning yellow = and=20 looks sickly. Any ideas? Too-Tall has been in the family for = years=20 and I'd hate to be responsible for his death. He is so=20 cool!

(I got your e-mail = address from=20 a different response posted on the internet.)

Kimberly Jacobson
Absolute=20 Solutions
Office Manager
651-287-3020 X 100
Kimj@AbsoluteSolutions.biz

------=_NextPart_000_0081_01C2AA8B.D129F880-- From robyn_gosse@spectramarketing.com Sun Dec 22 17:57:32 2002 From: robyn_gosse@spectramarketing.com (robyn_gosse@spectramarketing.com) Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 10:57:32 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200212221757.gBMHvW111031@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a cape honeysuckle vine that turned yellow in November and lost all its leaves. There are lots of seed pods left hanging on the vines. Should I cut back all the dead looking vines, or will they re-grow leaves? I'm not sure if the vine was over or under-watered, froze or what, but the dead vines look pretty nasty. Is it normal for cape honeysuckle to loose its leaves every year, or do you think this signals a problem with the irrigation system? From dicjud@webtv.net Sun Dec 22 17:50:34 2002 From: dicjud@webtv.net (judy and dick) Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 12:50:34 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] calamondin fruit Message-ID: <28323-3E05FB6A-1609@storefull-2196.public.lawson.webtv.net> hi, i would appreciate any info about this fruit. i use it as a fruit juice drink while my wife make a great preserve from it. thank you, dick h. From WFriedr101@aol.com Sun Dec 22 13:46:44 2002 From: WFriedr101@aol.com (WFriedr101@aol.com) Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 08:46:44 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] How to carefor christmas catus Message-ID: <88.218626f6.2b371c44@aol.com> --part1_88.218626f6.2b371c44_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello We just got a Christmas cactus as a present and don't know how to care for it. We live in Clearwater Fla. I am asking you because it gets very hot here like in Arizona and thought you would have better information about the plant in a hot climate. Should we keep it outside in the heat or put it in the a/c?Does it need sun or shade ? Any help would be helpful. Thank You for your help. My father had several and were beautiful he passed away last Christmas Day and would like to remember him at Christmas through the plant. Sounds stupid but means a lot to me. Thank You. William Friedrich Bill Friedrich WFriedr@aol.com --part1_88.218626f6.2b371c44_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello
We just got a Christmas cactus as a present and don't know how to care for it. We live in Clearwater Fla. I am asking you because it gets very hot here like in Arizona and thought you would have better information about the plant in a hot climate. Should we keep it outside in the heat or put it in the a/c?Does it need sun or shade ? Any help would be helpful. Thank You for your help. My father had several and were beautiful he passed away last Christmas Day and would like to remember him at Christmas through the plant. Sounds stupid but means a lot to me. Thank You.

William Friedrich

Bill Friedrich
WFriedr@aol.com --part1_88.218626f6.2b371c44_boundary-- From LIBBYSATTIC@COX.NET Sat Dec 21 20:11:54 2002 From: LIBBYSATTIC@COX.NET (LIBBYSATTIC@COX.NET) Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 13:11:54 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200212212011.gBLKBs101021@Ag.arizona.edu> HELLO, I JUST PLANTED A NIGHT BLOOMING CYRUS CACTI IN MY YARD IT WEIGHS APX 100LBS AND IS APX 6-7 FEET TALL. I RESCUED IT FROM BEING DISPOSED OF. I LOVE IT. I AM WORRIED ABOUT IT, IT DOESNT LOOK GOOD. DO I NEED TO PUT VITAMINS OR ANYTHING IN IT IN THE GROUND? I LIVE IN CHANDLER AZ. I WILL DO ANYTHING TO SAVE IT. THANK YOU! NINA From plcbusdel01@cox.net Sat Dec 21 21:32:39 2002 From: plcbusdel01@cox.net (plcbusdel01@cox.net) Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 14:32:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200212212132.gBLLWd106026@Ag.arizona.edu> Our rye grass has been very successful, however, recently we have noticed spotty areas of yellowing. We were told (by a nusery) that we are watering too much. We have cut the watering to 3 cycles per week - 5 mintures per cycle (about .4 to .6 inches per week). We've not seen any change (yet). The yellowing is present both in high and low areas. The yellowing is in patches and random. Are there other causes on this yellowing? Thank you, Paul Cote From karleenc@cox.net Fri Dec 20 22:20:09 2002 From: karleenc@cox.net (karleenc@cox.net) Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 15:20:09 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200212202220.gBKMK9106350@Ag.arizona.edu> I want to have a large cactus removed from my yard. Thanks Karleen From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Dec 27 19:24:24 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 19:24:24 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] calamondin fruit Message-ID: Calamondin is a citrus hybrid and is often grown as an ornamental because of its dense head of bright green leaves and small orange fruits that remain on the tree through the winter. The juice is well-flavored and very acid. As you've discovered, it makes a good drink as well as preserves. Sounds like you are enjoying your tree! Here are some websites with more information: http://www.hort.purdue.edu/newcrop/morton/calamondin.html http://www.orientmag.com/food4.htm http://gardenbed.com/C/5925.cfm Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: dicjud@webtv.net (judy and dick) >To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] calamondin fruit >Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 12:50:34 -0500 (EST) > >hi, >i would appreciate any info about this fruit. i use it as a fruit juice >drink while my wife make a great preserve from it. >thank you, dick h. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 3 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail&xAPID=42&PS=47575&PI=7324&DI=7474&SU= http://www.hotmail.msn.com/cgi-bin/getmsg&HL=1216hotmailtaglines_smartspamprotection_3mf From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Dec 27 19:09:03 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 19:09:03 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] cactus help Message-ID: Could you give us some more information about Too-Tall such as indoor or outdoor, in a container or not, your normal water and fertilization schedule, as well as things that might have changed -- any construction/destruction, changes in light available, drainage changes, etc. Yellowing might be the result of overwatering or poor drainage or cold damage, but we need more information. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Kimberly Jacobson" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] cactus help >Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 14:01:40 -0600 > >I have a cactus that has been growing great (we named him Too-Tall), He is >over 5 feet tall and 2 feet wide. The problem is, for no apparent reason >he >is turning yellow and looks sickly. Any ideas? Too-Tall has been in the >family for years and I'd hate to be responsible for his death. He is so >cool! > >(I got your e-mail address from a different response posted on the >internet.) >Kimberly Jacobson >Absolute Solutions >Office Manager >651-287-3020 X 100 >Kimj@AbsoluteSolutions.biz > > > _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 3 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus&xAPID=42&PS=47575&PI=7324&DI=7474&SU= http://www.hotmail.msn.com/cgi-bin/getmsg&HL=1216hotmailtaglines_virusprotection_3mf From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Dec 27 19:04:36 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 19:04:36 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] bare patches in lawn Message-ID: I would first check watering to be certain water is adequate in the bare areas. Then dig the soil to see if it is compacted and unable to take up water adequately. Adjust sprinkler heads and aerate soil as necessary. Can you describe the pattern for the bare areas? (in a strip, in just one area, sun or shade, location of sprinklers relative th to the bare area, etc.) Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: azwied@cs.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2002 13:49:15 -0700 (MST) > >This past summer we were away for vacation. Neighbor cut and watered lawn. > However, when we got back a portion of the lawn was bare. This fall, I >thatched the lawn and overseeded with Scott's Sun and Shade Rye grass seed. > Seed did not take in the bare areas, and in some places did not take and >there were areas of >bermudia grass. Re-seeded, but no improvement. What could be the problem >and how can I correct it? Thanking you in advance for your help. Bill >Wiedbusch > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 3 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail&xAPID=42&PS=47575&PI=7324&DI=7474&SU= http://www.hotmail.msn.com/cgi-bin/getmsg&HL=1216hotmailtaglines_addphotos_3mf From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Dec 27 18:59:49 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 18:59:49 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] yellow spots in winter lawn, rye grass Message-ID: Paul, I would suggest that you check the watering carefully, since watering is the root of most lawn problems. There are some insects and diseases that can also cause yellow patches. Try digging up some soil and turf at the edge of a yellow patch and look for cutworms in the soil and the presence of other insects. Capture what you find for identification and appropriate treatment. Some disease may be caused by fungus. Appropriate watering and watering in the morning rather than at night may control these (disease is usually more of a problem in hot weather). Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: plcbusdel01@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 14:32:39 -0700 (MST) > >Our rye grass has been very successful, however, recently we have noticed >spotty areas of yellowing. We were told (by a nusery) that we are watering >too much. We have cut the watering to 3 cycles per week - 5 mintures per >cycle (about .4 to .6 inches per week). We've not seen any change (yet). >The yellowing is present both in high and low areas. The yellowing is in >patches and random. > >Are there other causes on this yellowing? > >Thank you, > >Paul Cote > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 3 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus&xAPID=42&PS=47575&PI=7324&DI=7474&SU= http://www.hotmail.msn.com/cgi-bin/getmsg&HL=1216hotmailtaglines_eliminateviruses_3mf From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Dec 27 18:46:16 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 18:46:16 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] cactus care, cereus Message-ID: There are several night blooming cactus, both native and nonnative. Care will be dependent upon proper plant id. Some may need more water and shade or finer soils than others. In general, transplanted cactus should be planted into a dry hole and not watered at all for at least 10 days (longer in these cool days). Make sure the cactus is only planted as deep as it was originally, otherwise soil moisture against the skin can cause rot. Cacti are usually not actively growing October to March and need no supplemental irrigation. (from Mary Irish, "Gardening in the Desert") You do not need to add any fertilizers, vitamins, hormones, etc. Good luck in saving the big cactus! Could you describe what you are seeing when you say the cactus doesn't look good? That may help us understand the problem. Also, information about exactly how the cactus was transplanted my help diagnose the problem. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: LIBBYSATTIC@COX.NET >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 13:11:54 -0700 (MST) > >HELLO, >I JUST PLANTED A NIGHT BLOOMING CYRUS CACTI IN MY YARD IT WEIGHS APX 100LBS >AND IS APX 6-7 FEET TALL. I RESCUED IT FROM BEING DISPOSED OF. I LOVE IT. I >AM WORRIED ABOUT IT, IT DOESNT LOOK GOOD. DO I NEED TO PUT VITAMINS OR >ANYTHING IN IT IN THE GROUND? I LIVE IN CHANDLER AZ. I WILL DO ANYTHING TO >SAVE IT. THANK YOU! NINA > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 3 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail&xAPID=42&PS=47575&PI=7324&DI=7474&SU= http://www.hotmail.msn.com/cgi-bin/getmsg&HL=1216hotmailtaglines_advancedjmf_3mf From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Dec 27 18:28:43 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 18:28:43 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] cape honeysuckle dying back (Tecomaria capensis) Message-ID: My cape honesuckle dies back every year whhen the temperature dips to 28-30F. Did you have nights that cold in November? Usually, most of the plant leafs out again when warm weather returns. If you didn't have cold weather, then I would suspect a watering problem. I would check the irrigation system to make sure it is operating correctly and emitters are not clogged. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: robyn_gosse@spectramarketing.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 10:57:32 -0700 (MST) > >I have a cape honeysuckle vine that turned yellow in November and lost all >its leaves. There are lots of seed pods left hanging on the vines. Should >I cut back all the dead looking vines, or will they re-grow leaves? I'm >not sure if the vine was over or under-watered, froze or what, but the dead >vines look pretty nasty. Is it normal for cape honeysuckle to loose its >leaves every year, or do you think this signals a problem with the >irrigation system? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 3 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail&xAPID=42&PS=47575&PI=7324&DI=7474&SU= http://www.hotmail.msn.com/cgi-bin/getmsg&HL=1216hotmailtaglines_stopmorespam_3mf From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Dec 27 18:19:09 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 18:19:09 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Screwbean Mesquite Message-ID: The insect you describe sounds like it might be one of the stink bugs. Some of them are beneficial and feed on other insects, others eat leaves and fruit. They may be using the bark as a place to hibernate. The borer insects may also be grey but the head is usually blunt, not pointed. If you could bring some examples of the beetles to your Cooperative Extension Office (check the county pages in the phone book for location), we could make a positive identification. (I am in southern Arizona and do not know the insects in the Mohave Desert). I would not recommend spraying or stripping the bark until you know what kind of insect it is. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Winebagdave@aol.com >To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Screwbean Mesquite >Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 19:02:29 EST > >I have a Screwbean Mesquite tree that my wife grew from seed about 10 years >ago. It is quite large and has a trunk girth of about 30 inches. I was >thinning some of the undesirable branches from it the other day, and I >noticed a lot of black granular matter on the ground around the base of the >trunk. Furthur inspection revealed some flat, oval bodied, pointed head, >brownish grey beetles, about the size of an average little finger nail. >They >are under the shaggy bark. I noticed the same granular material in the >first >crotch of the tree (about six feet off the ground). Are these beetles a >serious threat to my tree? Can the shaggy bark be stripped to effectively >spray these pests? What spray is effective? I live near Victorville in >the >California Mojave Desert. > > Thank you for your time, > > Dave Anderson >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 3 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus&xAPID=42&PS=47575&PI=7324&DI=7474&SU= http://www.hotmail.msn.com/cgi-bin/getmsg&HL=1216hotmailtaglines_eliminateviruses_3mf From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Dec 27 17:24:44 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 17:24:44 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] cactus removal Message-ID: Karleen, Check the yellow pages of your phone book under 'cacti' for businesses that specialize in relocation/removal of cacti. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: karleenc@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 15:20:09 -0700 (MST) > >I want to have a large cactus removed from my yard. >Thanks >Karleen > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 3 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail&xAPID=42&PS=47575&PI=7324&DI=7474&SU= http://www.hotmail.msn.com/cgi-bin/getmsg&HL=1216hotmailtaglines_smartspamprotection_3mf From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Dec 27 17:46:23 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 17:46:23 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] How to carefor christmas cactus Message-ID: I keep my Christmas cactus indoors near a window so it gets a lot of bright light but little direct sun. A Christmas cactus is a very nice way to remember your father and you will enjoy learning how to care for this beautiful plant. Water regularly but allow the soil to dry out betwwen waterings. Twelve hours of darkness each day during the month of November will help set blooms (cover with a box or place in a dark room at night). Cooler temperatures are fine for this cactus. Here is some information in reply to a similar quesion. I hope this helps you. Linda Drew Master Gardener The information below was found at following URL: http://www.ianr.unl.edu/pubs/Horticulture/g187.htm **************BEGIN QUOTED MATERIAL*************************************** Christmas Cactus There are many new selections of types of Christmas cactus to choose from. Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii), in contrast to arid species of cactus, requires a growing medium with more organic material. A good soil mix consists of two parts peat moss, one part garden soil and one part sand. Good drainage is essential. Fertilize Christmas cactus plants monthly from the time the plants finish blooming through late spring. Reduce fertilizer during fall and early winter. Christmas cactus should be given less water starting in April or May, and continuing to September. This encourages flower bud formation. Once buds set, more water will be needed. Plants can be set outdoors in partial shade in late spring after the last frost, and brought indoors before danger of frost in the fall. Christmas cacti tolerate temperatures of 65-90F during most of the year. Cooler temperatures of 45-55F in the fall aid in flower bud formation. Long periods of direct sunlight can cause sunburning. An east or west window is a good location to maintain a Christmas cactus. These plants often will not flower because of excessive artificial light in the home at night during the fall season. If this is a problem, you may wish to place your plant in an unused room or closet each night, starting in September, until the buds are showing. Christmas cacti commonly drop unopened flower buds. This may be caused by an excessive number of buds or a sudden change in temperature, light or other environmental factors. ******************END QUOTED MATERIAL**************************************** Good luck. -Mike T. >From: WFriedr101@aol.com >To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] How to carefor christmas catus >Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2002 08:46:44 EST > >Hello > We just got a Christmas cactus as a present and don't know how to care >for >it. We live in Clearwater Fla. I am asking you because it gets very hot >here >like in Arizona and thought you would have better information about the >plant >in a hot climate. Should we keep it outside in the heat or put it in the >a/c?Does it need sun or shade ? Any help would be helpful. Thank You for >your >help. My father had several and were beautiful he passed away last >Christmas >Day and would like to remember him at Christmas through the plant. Sounds >stupid but means a lot to me. Thank You. > > William Friedrich > >Bill Friedrich >WFriedr@aol.com _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 limited-time offer: Join now and get 3 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/dialup&xAPID=42&PS=47575&PI=7324&DI=7474&SU= http://www.hotmail.msn.com/cgi-bin/getmsg&HL=1216hotmailtaglines_newmsn8ishere_3mf From JeanSciFi@mchsi.com Sat Dec 28 17:14:18 2002 From: JeanSciFi@mchsi.com (jean) Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 10:14:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fringed Shasta Daisy Message-ID: <000801c2ae94$8e888660$6601a8c0@nywmjsualsin5w> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C2AE59.E1B71670 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hello, Would fringed shasta daisy grow here in the low valley? I was thinking = of a big pot that could be moved to the east side of the house when it = gets hot. I really want them for the west side but realize that may get = too hot during the summer. The pot is insulated. Thanks, JeanSciFi@mchsi.com ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C2AE59.E1B71670 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hello,

Would fringed shasta daisy grow here in the low = valley? =20 I was thinking of a big pot that could be moved to the east side of the = house=20 when it gets hot. I really want them for the west side but realize that = may get=20 too hot during the summer. The pot is insulated.

Thanks, = JeanSciFi@mchsi.com

------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C2AE59.E1B71670-- From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Fri Dec 27 23:17:37 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 16:17:37 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rye grass yellowing Message-ID: <002301c2adfe$26738ac0$3204e043@ibmbna6040> Paul if you haven't fertilized your rye grass since you overseeded you are way past due. Use amonium nitrate fertilizer while the weather is cool, the nitrogen becomes available to the plant roots much faster than most other fertilizers. I agree with your nursery in that you are applying too much water. Today's newspaper reported that your rye grass requires 0.08 inches of water if watered three days ago. Further, winter watering of rye grass should be only every 7 to 14 days. Check out this site for more info on irrigation: http://www.amwua.