From cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu Fri Feb 1 17:10:08 2002 From: cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu (Carol Noyes) Date: Fri, 01 Feb 2002 10:10:08 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] All About Trees Conference Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020201100441.00ab3990@ag.arizona.edu> The 2nd Annual "All About Trees" Conference will be held on June 7, 2002 at the Cliff Castle Casino in Cottonwood Arizona. This Conference is presented by the Arizona Community Tree Council. Early registration (before May 17, 2002) ACTC Members: $50 Non-Members: $60 After May 17, 2002 ACTC Members: $65 Non-Members: $75 Group rate: register 3 people from your company and the 4th goes free. Mail registrations to ACTC, 1616 W. Adams, Phoenix, AZ 85007 For more information call 602-542-6191. From desertlori@home.com Fri Feb 1 22:40:21 2002 From: desertlori@home.com (desertlori@home.com) Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2002 15:40:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202012240.g11MeLD02098@Ag.arizona.edu> I've been reading about zoysia grass. I have a front yard with nothing but some scattered winter grass and weeds and lots of bare dirt. It was treated with Roundup this summer in anticipation of a rock yard, but plans have changed. I live near Squaw Peak in Phoenix. First, will zoysia work in this area? And, how do I prepare the soil for planting? Or is it possible to do the spray on seed or turf squares? There is an existing irrigation system. Any other suggestions? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Feb 2 15:20:41 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 02 Feb 2002 15:20:41 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Zoysia Grass Message-ID: >From: desertlori@home.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2002 15:40:21 -0700 (MST) > >I've been reading about zoysia grass. I have a front yard with nothing but >some scattered winter grass and weeds and lots of bare dirt. It was >treated with Roundup this summer in anticipation of a rock yard, but plans >have changed. I live near Squaw Peak in Phoenix. First, will zoysia work >in this area? And, how do I prepare the soil for planting? Or is it >possible to do the spray on seed or turf squares? There is an existing >irrigation system. Any other suggestions? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Here is information from Master GArdener Linda Guy: The Master Gardener Manual has a section on turf, including planting and maintenance schedules for zoysia grass. See it at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html However, in our lawn publication MC18, zoysia is listed as only moderately well adaprted to our area. They tend to be yellowish-green as a result of our caliche soil under hot weather stress. They tolerate partial shade, though not as well as a St. Augustine option. It is a slow grower, meaning less mowing and dethatching. It is more susceptible to insect or disease problems, and cannot be overseeded with rye in the winter, as one can with bermuda lawns. It is more cold tolerant, however, meaning that the lawn will have a slightly longer growing season. Our lawn pubs are listed at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#lawn They are not available online, but you can order them [same page] or view them in the reference section of your library (Section 635 - Home Horticulture pubilcations). ------------------------- ================== Following is an excerpt from Mike Hills' response to this same question on this list from 2 years ago. Refer to http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/arid_gardener/1605.html for the complete text. -Olin ==================== Re: Is Amazoy Zoysia Grass suitable to the Low Desert? By Mike Hills (mhills_sro@email.msn.com) Wed, 13 May 1998 17:33:03 -0700 "Sorry, but not really. Zoysia is only moderately adapted to use in the southwestern deserts. Actually prefers more acidic soil and water conditions than our typically alkaline pH. Plugs seem to do the poorest job, even though the advertisements would have you believe otherwise. These are being produced usually in the SE USA where soil, water and temperature are usually very different than ours. The plugs are also usually very small, with weak roots and arrive in poor stressed out condition. Sticking them into our hot dry conditions usually wipes out half or so. Even with similar soil and water conditions, such as a homeowner in the SE purchasing these same plugs, their small size plus the ad claims and plant spacing recommendations, plus the slow horizontal growth means that the plugs generally take 2 years to fill in a lawn area. In the meantime, the turf owner fights a continual battle with weeds, including Bermuda which want to move into the open, bare nicely prepared soil area. Additionally, the plugs end up creating a bumpy, hilly turf surface since the initial plug area is higher than the surrounding areas filled in by creeping stolons. RECOMMENDATION - Do Not Buy Any Of These Zoysia Plugs from catalogs or Weekend Newspaper Supplements. Zoysiagrass is only somewhat adapted out here, and you will have to constantly monitor soil pH and alter with additions of soil sulphur, iron, gypsum, etc. to fight the alkalinity and the salts. If you really want to try zoysia grass, try planting zoysia seed instead. The initial plant population is higher from direct seeding, the plants develop their root system directly in the turf area soil base, using our local water and weed encroachment is reduced. The common zoysiagrass from seed is coarser textured, but is much more adapted to borderline conditions like the SW USA. You will still need to add soil sulphur, iron, etc. but will be more successful than with the plugged types of zoysia. Additionally, zoysias are more prone to thatch buildup in our growing conditions, yet they do not tolerate much de-thatching activity - de-thatching actually harms the turf. The built up thatch makes the turf area more prone to insect and fungal disease problems, as well as creating problems with water penetration at the soil surface. Also, zoysia will go dormant and brown in winter usually before Bermuda and come back green in spring after Bermuda - it will not tolerate overseeding with ryegrass as this damages the zoysia crowns. Thus you can plan on a brown zoysia lawn for 4-6 months each year during winter. ... _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From djhillis@qwest.net Sat Feb 2 18:17:22 2002 From: djhillis@qwest.net (djhillis@qwest.net) Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 11:17:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202021817.g12IHMD22939@Ag.arizona.edu> I have an ornamental grass called Regal Mist. They are the ones that bloom red tips in the fall. On these tips now are small black things and I picked up some and they squished like blood in my fingers. Are they insects, and if so, good or bad? What should I do with them? Thanks. Dennis From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Feb 2 21:10:40 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 02 Feb 2002 21:10:40 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] 'Regal Mist' ornamental grass Message-ID: I have not grown this ornamental grass myself. Here is some information form the web: Muhlenbergia capillaris (Lam.) Trin. Regal MistTM We feel that this ornamental grass shows great promise for many different regions of the country. Native to humid southeastern Texas, this grass has adapted extremely well to the hot, dry conditions of deserts in Arizona and Nevada. In fact, it has performed incredibly well in Las Vegas, which is cursed with poor soils, high winds, high summer temperatures, and cold winters. Regal MistTM is also happy in heavy soils, with ample irrigation. In short, it has worked everywhere it has been tried, so far! It is hardy to at least ?17.8°C (0°F). Regal MistTM has narrow, dark green, glossy leaves. It grows quickly to form a rounded clump to 0.9 m (3 feet) tall and wide. The flower spikes on this grass have attracted a lot of attention... they form misty masses of pink to purple flowers in October and November. We recommend cutting this plant back in early spring to cut off the dead flower spikes and any dormant foliage. --- I've found no information on pests, but your description sounds similar to cochineal scale on prickly pear cactus. could you take a sample to your nearest county Extension office for identification? If they are scale, they are an insect that sucks juices from the plant. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: djhillis@qwest.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 11:17:22 -0700 (MST) > >I have an ornamental grass called Regal Mist. They are the ones that bloom >red tips in the fall. On these tips now are small black things and I picked >up some and they squished like blood in my fingers. Are they insects, and >if so, good or bad? What should I do with them? Thanks. Dennis > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From desertlori@home.com Sun Feb 3 20:55:02 2002 From: desertlori@home.com (desertlori) Date: Sun, 03 Feb 2002 13:55:02 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Zoysia Grass In-Reply-To: Message-ID: WOW! Thanks you guys! I really don't want to work that hard. Maybe I should re-think the rock option. LOL Anyway, I will check out the Master Gardener site and learn more about Bermuda. Thanks again. From maryfergus@aol.com Mon Feb 4 02:16:08 2002 From: maryfergus@aol.com (maryfergus@aol.com) Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2002 19:16:08 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202040216.g142G8D29885@Ag.arizona.edu> Our beautiful (7 ea) ficus (Indian Laurel Fig) look like they were completely killed by the frost that happened last week (got down to about 25) Will they come back? What should be done now? prune them back? fertilize them? They have been in the ground about three years and are about 8 ft tall Help! Thank you, mary From gwright@Ag.arizona.edu Mon Feb 4 13:18:48 2002 From: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu (Glenn C. Wright) Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2002 06:18:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: Re: planting and growing orange trees Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020204061646.031b7118@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_1249906==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Dear MG's: Can you assist this Mr. Champion? Thanks. GCW >To: "RICHARD CHAMPION" >From: "Glenn C. Wright" >Subject: Re: planting and growing orange trees > >At 09:36 AM 2/2/2002 -0700, you wrote: >> >> >>Good morning, >> >>Can you help us ?? >> >>My wife and I live in a mobile home park in Peoria AZ >>Can you tell us how to plant and grow an orange tree (not to big) >>that will yield a sweet orange or can you tell us of a website that has >>instructions on this subject ?? >> >> >>Thank you >>Rick rdcchamp@msn.com > >Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D. >Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist >University of Arizona >Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center >Route 1, Box 40M >Somerton, AZ 85350 >Phone: 928-726-0458 >FAX: 928-726-1363 >e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu --=====================_1249906==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Dear MG's:

Can you assist this Mr. Champion?

Thanks.

GCW

To: "RICHARD CHAMPION" <rdcchamp@msn.com>
From: "Glenn C. Wright" <gwright@ag.arizona.edu>
Subject: Re: planting and growing orange trees

At 09:36 AM 2/2/2002 -0700, you wrote:
 
 
Good morning,
 
Can you help us ??
 
My wife and I live in a mobile home park in Peoria AZ
Can you tell us how to plant and grow an orange tree (not to big)
that will yield a sweet orange   or  can you tell us of a website that has
instructions on this subject ??
 
 
Thank you
Rick     rdcchamp@msn.com

Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D.
Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist
University of Arizona
Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center
Route 1, Box 40M
Somerton, AZ 85350
Phone: 928-726-0458
FAX: 928-726-1363
e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu --=====================_1249906==_.ALT-- From gwright@Ag.arizona.edu Mon Feb 4 13:23:17 2002 From: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu (Glenn C. Wright) Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2002 06:23:17 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: Re: your assistance Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020204062101.03195d28@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_1518984==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Dear Master Gardeners: Can you assist G. Joines? Thanks. GCW >To: GJoines69@aol.com >From: "Glenn C. Wright" >Subject: Re: your assistance > >At 07:49 PM 2/3/2002 -0500, you wrote: >>Hi, I hope you can point me in the right direction. >> >>I have a dwarf orange and dwarf grapefruit tree in my backyard. I know >>basically nothing about caring for them. Can you advise me about the >>basics? >>A book? web site? >> >>I really want to know about when and how to prune them (shaping them) to >>keep >>them looking nice and producing max fruits. >> >>Water? >>Fertilizing? I also have a lemon tree. Same principle as orange and grapefruit? >>thanks > >Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D. >Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist >University of Arizona >Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center >Route 1, Box 40M >Somerton, AZ 85350 >Phone: 928-726-0458 >FAX: 928-726-1363 >e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu --=====================_1518984==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Dear Master Gardeners:

Can you assist G. Joines?

Thanks.

GCW

To: GJoines69@aol.com
From: "Glenn C. Wright" <gwright@ag.arizona.edu>
Subject: Re: your assistance

At 07:49 PM 2/3/2002 -0500, you wrote:
Hi, I hope you can point me in the right direction.

I have a dwarf orange and dwarf grapefruit tree in my backyard.  I know
basically nothing about caring for them.  Can you advise me about the basics?
A book? web site?

I really want to know about when and how to prune them (shaping them) to keep
them looking nice and producing max fruits.

Water?
Fertilizing?

I also have a lemon tree.
Same principle as orange and grapefruit?



thanks

Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D.
Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist
University of Arizona
Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center
Route 1, Box 40M
Somerton, AZ 85350
Phone: 928-726-0458
FAX: 928-726-1363
e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu --=====================_1518984==_.ALT-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Feb 4 21:36:15 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 16:36:15 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ficus nitida frosted Message-ID: --part1_f6.160c81e4.299058cf_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Mary, The Ficus nitida is quite frost tender especially for the first year after they are planted. Since yours are three years old hopefully they will be able to make it. Plants for Dry Climates says that they will be damaged at 25 degrees F. Do not do anything to them except water them as they should be watered for this time of year. Wait for two to three months before pruning off the dead growth. If temperatures near 25 degrees are forecast provide a cover and wrap the trunk to protect from the cold. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_f6.160c81e4.299058cf_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Mary,

The Ficus nitida is quite frost tender especially for the first year after they are planted. Since yours are three years old hopefully they will be able to make it. Plants for Dry Climates says that they will be damaged at 25 degrees F. Do not do anything to them except water them as they should be watered for this time of year. Wait for two to three  months before pruning off the dead growth. If temperatures near 25 degrees are forecast provide a cover and wrap the trunk to protect from the cold.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_f6.160c81e4.299058cf_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Feb 4 21:49:58 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 16:49:58 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: planting and growing orange trees Message-ID: <72.171868d2.29905c06@aol.com> --part1_72.171868d2.29905c06_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Rick, Univ. of Arizona publishes an excellent bulletin titled Citrus trees in the Home Garden which should answer most of your questions about citrus and is available for $1.00 from Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_72.171868d2.29905c06_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Rick,

Univ. of Arizona publishes an excellent bulletin titled Citrus trees in the Home Garden which should answer most of your questions about citrus and is available for $1.00 from Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_72.171868d2.29905c06_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Feb 4 21:56:34 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 16:56:34 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus care Message-ID: --part1_f8.163881aa.29905d92_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Univ. of Arizona publishes an excellent bulletin titled Citrus trees in the Home Garden which should answer most of your questions about citrus and is available for $1.00 from Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_f8.163881aa.29905d92_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Univ. of Arizona publishes an excellent bulletin titled Citrus trees in the Home Garden which should answer most of your questions about citrus and is available for $1.00 from Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_f8.163881aa.29905d92_boundary-- From bnewdigate@cox.net Tue Feb 5 02:38:46 2002 From: bnewdigate@cox.net (bnewdigate@cox.net) Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 19:38:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202050238.g152ckD14619@Ag.arizona.edu> when should i first fertilize my queen palms and what should i fertilize with? From gardenguru" Message-ID: <07bf01c1ae4e$fcdb5800$69382ace@ibm22761658747> The Extension Service now has this data sheet available online at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm under Ornamentals. It provides info for queen palms fertilization and care. . AZ1021 Arizona Landscape Palms It is important to use fert. especially formulated for palms available at any nursery., They need the trace minerals as well as Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium especially Magnesium GG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, February 04, 2002 7:38 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > when should i first fertilize my queen palms and what should i fertilize with? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From gardenguru" Message-ID: <07ce01c1ae50$743c2540$69382ace@ibm22761658747> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_07C9_01C1AE15.848D8D20 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Glenn, there are several data sheet online thru the Extension Service at = this site under " Citrus ". That can provide you with assistance with = your citrus trees. There are many varieties of sweet oranges that do = very well in our climate.=20 http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm a.. AZ1001 Low Desert Citrus Varieties=20 a.. AZ1146 Budding Citrus Trees=20 a.. AZ1151 Irrigating Citrus Trees=20 a.. AZ1154 Diseases of Citrus in Arizona=20 The Sheet below are avail by mail for $1 from the Ext. Office.=20 a.. MC8 Recovery of Neglected Citrus Trees=20 a.. MC17 Irrigation Needs of Citrus=20 a.. MC65 Quality Citrus Trees=20 a.. MC91 Fertilizing Citrus Trees=20 a.. Q191 Phytophthora Foot Rot of Citrus=20 a.. 8670 Fertilizing Citrus Trees in Arizona=20 =20 In Phoenix Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Hope this helps GG ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Glenn C. Wright=20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Monday, February 04, 2002 6:18 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: Re: planting and growing orange trees Dear MG's: Can you assist this Mr. Champion? Thanks. GCW To: "RICHARD CHAMPION" From: "Glenn C. Wright" Subject: Re: planting and growing orange trees At 09:36 AM 2/2/2002 -0700, you wrote: =20 Good morning, =20 Can you help us ?? =20 My wife and I live in a mobile home park in Peoria AZ Can you tell us how to plant and grow an orange tree (not to big) that will yield a sweet orange or can you tell us of a website = that has instructions on this subject ?? =20 =20 Thank you Rick rdcchamp@msn.com=20 Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D. Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist University of Arizona Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center Route 1, Box 40M Somerton, AZ 85350 Phone: 928-726-0458 FAX: 928-726-1363 e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu=20 ------=_NextPart_000_07C9_01C1AE15.848D8D20 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Glenn, there are several data sheet online thru = the=20 Extension Service at this site under " Citrus ". That can provide you = with=20 assistance with your citrus trees. There are many varieties of sweet = oranges=20 that do very well in our climate.
 
http://= ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm
 
The Sheet below are avail by mail for $1 from = the Ext.=20 Office.
  • MC8 Recovery of Neglected Citrus Trees=20
  • MC17 Irrigation Needs of Citrus=20
  • MC65 Quality Citrus Trees=20
  • MC91 Fertilizing Citrus Trees=20
  • Q191 Phytophthora Foot Rot of Citrus=20
  • 8670 Fertilizing Citrus Trees in Arizona
    •  
     

    In = Phoenix

    Maricopa County = Cooperative=20 Extension

    4341 E. Broadway=20 Road

    Phoenix,=20 AZ 85040
    Hope=20 this helps
    GG
    ----- Original Message -----
    From:=20 Glenn C.=20 Wright
    Sent: Monday, February 04, 2002 = 6:18=20 AM
    Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: = Re:=20 planting and growing orange trees

    Dear MG's:

    Can = you assist=20 this Mr. Champion?

    Thanks.

    GCW
    To: = "RICHARD CHAMPION"=20 <rdcchamp@msn.com>
    From:=20 "Glenn C. Wright" <gwright@ag.arizona.edu>
    = Subject:=20 Re: planting and growing orange trees

    At 09:36 AM 2/2/2002 = -0700, you=20 wrote:

     
    Good=20 morning,
     
    Can you help us ??
     
    My wife and = I live=20 in a mobile home park in Peoria AZ
    Can you tell us how to plant = and=20 grow an orange tree (not to big)
    that will yield a sweet=20 orange   or  can you tell us of a website that=20 has
    instructions on this subject = ??
     
     
    Thank=20 you
    Rick     rdcchamp@msn.com=20

    Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D.
    Associate Research Scientist = and=20 Citrus Specialist
    University of Arizona
    Yuma Mesa Agriculture=20 Center
    Route 1, Box 40M
    Somerton, AZ 85350
    Phone:=20 928-726-0458
    FAX: 928-726-1363
    e-mail: = gwright@ag.arizona.edu    =20

    ------=_NextPart_000_07C9_01C1AE15.848D8D20-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Feb 5 14:22:19 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2002 14:22:19 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palms, fertlizing Message-ID: Fertilize palms for the first time in April after temperatures have warmed and the palms are actively growing again. Use a palm fertilizer to provide the micronutrients palms need (typically a fertilizer of 9-4-9 plus minors). Queen palms are not the best-adapted to our deserts and will require regular irrigation and fertilizing. They need good drainage and deep soils (2 feet or so). For more information, check this publication: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: bnewdigate@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 19:38:46 -0700 (MST) > >when should i first fertilize my queen palms and what should i fertilize >with? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 5 14:40:51 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2002 07:40:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pest ID - Regal Mist References: <200202021817.g12IHMD22939@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C5FEEF3.A630728D@qwest.net> I believe that you have a form of aphid which come in different colors. Check out the MG Manual for help in identification and management. http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/entomology/sap.html#sap This is the time of year that they start appearing. Linda Guy, MG djhillis@qwest.net wrote: > I have an ornamental grass called Regal Mist. They are the ones that bloom red tips in the fall. On these tips now are small black things and I picked up some and they squished like blood in my fingers. Are they insects, and if so, good or bad? What should I do with them? Thanks. Dennis > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From clemmirk@aol.com Tue Feb 5 15:33:19 2002 From: clemmirk@aol.com (clemmirk@aol.com) Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 08:33:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202051533.g15FXJD09550@Ag.arizona.edu> I have an Organ Pipe Cactus that is yellowing and appears deseased. There are, however, some healthy looking green stalks, that I have removed and saved. How do I transplant these? Will they grow, and do I need to water them in the beginning? From gwright@Ag.arizona.edu Tue Feb 5 16:43:58 2002 From: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu (Glenn C. Wright) Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2002 09:43:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: Citrus tree Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020205094222.03187860@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_99960281==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Dear Master Gardeners: Can you assist this lady? Thanks, GCW >From: MASTennis@aol.com >Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 23:25:03 EST >Subject: Citrus tree >To: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu >X-Mailer: AOL 6.0 for Windows US sub 10556 > >I have a navel orange tree (dwarf) that has been dropping its leaves. It >started in Nov. and then new leaves came back and now they are dropping in >large quantities. My oranges were very small and some were split and on >the ground. What can I do? > >Thank you, Margie Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D. Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist University of Arizona Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center Route 1, Box 40M Somerton, AZ 85350 Phone: 928-726-0458 FAX: 928-726-1363 e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu --=====================_99960281==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Dear Master Gardeners:

    Can you assist this lady?

    Thanks,

    GCW

    From: MASTennis@aol.com
    Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 23:25:03 EST
    Subject: Citrus tree
    To: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu
    X-Mailer: AOL 6.0 for Windows US sub 10556

    I have a navel orange tree (dwarf) that has been dropping its leaves.  It started in Nov. and then new leaves came back and now they are dropping in large quantities.  My oranges were very small and some were split and on the ground.  What can I do?  

    Thank you,  Margie

    Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D.
    Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist
    University of Arizona
    Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center
    Route 1, Box 40M
    Somerton, AZ 85350
    Phone: 928-726-0458
    FAX: 928-726-1363
    e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu     --=====================_99960281==_.ALT-- From ThiedingM@aol.com Tue Feb 5 17:25:03 2002 From: ThiedingM@aol.com (ThiedingM@aol.com) Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 10:25:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202051725.g15HP3D06276@Ag.arizona.edu> Do trailing roses get pruned back the same as all other types of rose bushes? If yes, when is the best time to prune back? From Jonathan Kandell" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C1AE3A.BFC54FC0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Interesting article on irrigation practises in old and new Egypt. http://journeytoforever.org/farm_library/Wrench_Recon/Wrench_Recon_15.html ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C1AE3A.BFC54FC0 Content-Type: application/octet-stream; name="Wrench - Reconstruction by Way of the Soil - Ch15.url" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="Wrench - Reconstruction by Way of the Soil - Ch15.url" [DEFAULT] BASEURL=3Dhttp://journeytoforever.org/farm_library/Wrench_Recon/Wrench_Re= con_15.html [InternetShortcut] URL=3Dhttp://journeytoforever.org/farm_library/Wrench_Recon/Wrench_Recon_= 15.html Modified=3D007AB45D75AEC10170 ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C1AE3A.BFC54FC0-- From azcovey2@home.com Tue Feb 5 21:36:30 2002 From: azcovey2@home.com (azcovey2@home.com) Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 14:36:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202052136.g15LaUD09015@Ag.arizona.edu> I have an atrium that is open on top and 6 x 6 and fully enclosed. It is 90% shaded. I have a large container that I am hoping to either plant a good size organ pipe style cactus which would be alone or a variety of succulents, an agave being the main plant along with small ones at the bottom. Is this enough sun for either of these plantings or do you have other suggestions. It needs something at least 3' high or dramatic. Please advise From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Feb 5 22:32:09 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2002 22:32:09 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] cactus, transplanting Message-ID: For information on transplanting cactus, go to: http://pubs1.cals.arizona.edu/search/srch.cfm and search for 'ocotillo' The online document will give you details for planting the healthy stems. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: clemmirk@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 08:33:19 -0700 (MST) > >I have an Organ Pipe Cactus that is yellowing and appears deseased. There >are, however, some healthy looking green stalks, that I have removed and >saved. How do I transplant these? Will they grow, and do I need to water >them in the beginning? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From martypock@vtc.net Tue Feb 5 22:37:45 2002 From: martypock@vtc.net (martypock@vtc.net) Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 15:37:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202052237.g15MbjD24568@Ag.arizona.edu> What vegetable plants besides tomatoes and potatoes are in the nightshade family? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Feb 5 23:19:34 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2002 23:19:34 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] nightshade family Message-ID: Solanaceae (Nightshade Family) The Solanaceae Family has been highly cultivated over the years - it includes potatoes, tomatoes, eggplant, sweet peppers, chili peppers (but not black pepper), tobacco and petunias. Some plants have great medicinal value, some are quite poisonous. The calyx and corolla are 5-lobed, and usually there are 5 stamens. The fruit is partitioned into 2 or 4 seed-producing divisions, and may be dry or a fleshy berry. Solanales. The Solanaceae are herbs, shrubs, or trees comprising about 85 genera and 2,800 species that are frequently lianous or creeping. The leaves are alternate, usually simple, and lack stipules. Use an internet search engine of your choice and search for "Solanaceae". Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: martypock@vtc.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 15:37:45 -0700 (MST) > >What vegetable plants besides tomatoes and potatoes are in the nightshade >family? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From Jonathan Kandell" I was wondering if anyone had references to any Argentinian retail seed suppliers or vegetable growing web sites? They have a desert somewhat similar to my own and was curious what/how they planted. jk, tucson az From azlady3@aol.com Wed Feb 6 02:28:05 2002 From: azlady3@aol.com (azlady3@aol.com) Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 19:28:05 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202060228.g162S5D04964@Ag.arizona.edu> I need some advice quick! Everytime I put flowers out in my back yard they are consumed by either the bunnies or quail. THey have eated at least $300 worth of flowers and show no signs of stopping. Have you a clue as to what to do? Maybe you could suggest something to plant that they do not like. They have consumed Hopping John, Petunias, geraniums. One more question: I need to know how to keep pidgeons from liking my roof so much. Messy and bully the quail. But they do not eat the plants! Thanks, CC From canyonman@webtv.net Wed Feb 6 05:32:42 2002 From: canyonman@webtv.net (Gary Hellems) Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 22:32:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Battle with Caliche Message-ID: <16563-3C60BFFA-645@storefull-126.iap.bryant.webtv.net> Well, this is probably not the first posting on this subject but was wondering if it is possible to work with caliche when it comes time for planting, whether it be shrubs, trees, wildflowers or for that matter, cacti. I was told that to be successful, one must dig out all caliche in order to plant anything. It was suggested that holes that are dug for plants must be filled in with a rich soil mixture with mulch. I currently live in the north central part of Arizona. Any suggestions or comments? Thank you, Regards, Gary From jennaz31@aol.com Wed Feb 6 13:47:11 2002 From: jennaz31@aol.com (jennaz31@aol.com) Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 06:47:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202061347.g16DlBD15944@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a yellow hibiscus that has black spots all over the leaves. I have two red ones near it and one of those has a few spots, but the other is clear. What is this and what shoud I do? thanks Jenn From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Feb 6 14:35:55 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2002 14:35:55 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hibiscus, spots on leaves Message-ID: >From: jennaz31@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 06:47:11 -0700 (MST) > >I have a yellow hibiscus that has black spots all over the leaves. I have >two red ones near it and one of those has a few spots, but the other is >clear. >What is this and what shoud I do? > >thanks >Jenn > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener The black spots could be a disease, but may just be that your watering and fertilizing practices need to be fine-tuned. You can ask questions about hibiscus at The American Hibiscus Society. http://www.trop-hibiscus.com Linda Drew Master Gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Feb 6 14:43:56 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2002 14:43:56 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Wildlife eating flowers Message-ID: The most effective way to keep quail and rabbits from eating your plants is exclusion -- you will need to construct cage(s) around your garden that keep them out. There are many other options, including planting things that aren't tasty, such as salvia, but this doesn't work if they are very hungry. Go back to our web page and search on "rabbits" for other ideas. Pigeons will usually leave if you do not provide any food for them -- bird feeders, dogs and cats food left outdoors, etc. and exclude them from nesting around your property. Water is also a big draw that will attract them -- dog dish, bird bath, fountain, etc. Again, check our web page for other discussions. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: azlady3@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 19:28:05 -0700 (MST) > >I need some advice quick! >Everytime I put flowers out in my back yard they are consumed by either the >bunnies or quail. >THey have eated at least $300 worth of flowers and show no signs of >stopping. >Have you a clue as to what to do? >Maybe you could suggest something to plant that they do not like. >They have consumed Hopping John, Petunias, geraniums. > >One more question: >I need to know how to keep pidgeons from liking my roof so much. Messy and >bully the quail. But they do not eat the plants! >Thanks, >CC > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From lbradley@sisna.com Wed Feb 6 14:53:50 2002 From: lbradley@sisna.com (Lucy Bradley) Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2002 07:53:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] hands-on workshop on straw bale privacy wall construction Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020206075321.03969628@ag.arizona.edu> >* Pima County Cooperative Extension and Arizona Department of >Environmental Quality are offering a hands-on workshop on straw bale >privacy wall construction with earthen plasters as the first in a series >of workshops about alternative construction techniques. Participants will >receive instruction and actually build a straw bale wall from start to >finish. The free standing wall will be constructed as part of the Our >Yard Recycling Garden Project located at 4210 N. Campbell. The dates are >February 23, 24 and March 2 from 8:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. Registration is >limited to the first 25 people. The fee is $50.00. To register and for >more information, call 626-5161. From paul.a.koning@intel.com Wed Feb 6 17:57:22 2002 From: paul.a.koning@intel.com (paul.a.koning@intel.com) Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 10:57:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202061757.g16HvLD05660@Ag.arizona.edu> I have some questions about the apparent hardiness difference between blue and yellow lantana. I have both planted in my front yard, the yellow lantanas are flourishing, but the blue lantanas are spindly and unattractive. Are there known hardiness issues between that I can act on? For example: blue lantana need more or less water, are more sensitive to soil pH, more susceptible to white fly infestations, … Also does anyone have a suggestion for a full sun, low and colorful ground cover if the blue lantana don’t recover? Is the multicolor lantana any hardier? Background information: · They are planted in different beds; the landscape contractor did no soil amendment before planting. · The yellow are near a red Yucca, barrel cactus and mesquite, the blue near ocotillo and golden barrel cactus. · The yellow lantana may get a hour of morning and evening shade but both yellow and blue get unfiltered get full day sun. · Both are on the same drip irrigation line. · Both get white fly infestations during the summer. · I use an insecticidal soap to try to control the white fly. Should I use something else? Any information would be greatly appreciated! Paul Koning From DorthK@aol.com Wed Feb 6 20:41:16 2002 From: DorthK@aol.com (DorthK@aol.com) Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 13:41:16 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202062041.g16KfGD17577@Ag.arizona.edu> I want to start a huge flower garden in Mesa area. I would like flowers to bloom mostly in May and October. What annuals and Perennials would I choose. Also when should they be planted. I am from MN and know all the right flowers there but not here in AZ. Thanks From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Feb 6 22:32:59 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2002 22:32:59 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] lantana Message-ID: If possible, can you find the botanic names for the two lantanas that were planted? I've taken a guess here on two lantana species. Lantana camara (in shades of pink, yellow, red) is a tough shrub from the tropics/Caribbean. Light: Sun, part shade. Moisture: Well drained soil, drought resistant. Too much water and fertilizer will reduce bloom. Hardiness: USDA Zone 8 - 11, likes both humid and dry heat. Lantana is killed at 28° F, but quickly grows back. Lantana montevidenis (in purplish shades) is a less tough groundcover from South America. Light: Sun or shade, but more flowers when grown in bright sun. Moisture: Likes well drained light soils. Hardiness: USDA Zone 8 - 10; will tolerate some freezing temperatures. Top will die back in temperatures in the mid 20's F; frost gives the leaves a purple tinge; will recover in spring. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: paul.a.koning@intel.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 10:57:22 -0700 (MST) > >I have some questions about the apparent hardiness difference between blue >and yellow lantana. I have both planted in my front yard, the yellow >lantanas are flourishing, but the blue lantanas are spindly and >unattractive. > >Are there known hardiness issues between that I can act on? For example: >blue lantana need more or less water, are more sensitive to soil pH, more >susceptible to white fly infestations, ? > >Also does anyone have a suggestion for a full sun, low and colorful ground >cover if the blue lantana don?t recover? Is the multicolor lantana any >hardier? > >Background information: >· They are planted in different beds; the landscape contractor did no soil >amendment before planting. >· The yellow are near a red Yucca, barrel cactus and mesquite, the blue >near ocotillo and golden barrel cactus. >· The yellow lantana may get a hour of morning and evening shade but both >yellow and blue get unfiltered get full day sun. >· Both are on the same drip irrigation line. >· Both get white fly infestations during the summer. >· I use an insecticidal soap to try to control the white fly. Should I use >something else? > >Any information would be greatly appreciated! > >Paul Koning > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Feb 6 22:51:25 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 17:51:25 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Trailing roses, pruning Message-ID: --part1_ad.17cd61b0.29930d6d_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sorry, but I've not heard of a rose clssification called Trailing Rose. If you are talking about Ramblers, they should not be pruned until after they bloom. If it is climbers that you are asking about and you live in the low desert of Arizona January is the preferred time to prune, however you can still prune now. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian --part1_ad.17cd61b0.29930d6d_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sorry, but I've not heard of a rose clssification called Trailing Rose. If you are talking about Ramblers, they should not be pruned until after they bloom. If it is climbers that you are asking about and you live in the low desert of Arizona January is the preferred time to prune, however you can still prune now.

    Good luck.

    Rod McKusick
    Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian     --part1_ad.17cd61b0.29930d6d_boundary-- From pamela@u.arizona.edu Thu Feb 7 00:16:30 2002 From: pamela@u.arizona.edu (Pamela Tremain Koch) Date: Thu, 07 Feb 2002 08:16:30 +0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] lantana References: Message-ID: <00e901c1af6c$b314d420$42ddd690@computer> This is definately from a non-expert--but I bought some of the Yellow Lantana last year because I read an article that they were the longest blooming of all lantana--they were designed not to set seed as often as other kinds and therefore their bloom period was geatly extended when compared with most others. What you are seeing might be a result of this extended bloom period. Pamela ----- Original Message ----- From: "Linda Drew" To: ; Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2002 6:32 AM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] lantana > > If possible, can you find the botanic names for the two > lantanas that were planted? > > I've taken a guess here on two lantana species. > > Lantana camara (in shades of pink, yellow, red) is a > tough shrub from the tropics/Caribbean. > Light: Sun, part shade. > Moisture: Well drained soil, drought resistant. Too much water and > fertilizer will reduce bloom. > Hardiness: USDA Zone 8 - 11, likes both humid and dry heat. Lantana is > killed at 28° F, but quickly grows back. > > Lantana montevidenis (in purplish shades) is a less > tough groundcover from South America. > Light: Sun or shade, but more flowers when grown in bright sun. > Moisture: Likes well drained light soils. > Hardiness: USDA Zone 8 - 10; will tolerate some freezing temperatures. Top > will die back in temperatures in the mid 20's F; frost gives the leaves a > purple tinge; will recover in spring. > > Linda Drew > Master Gardener > > >From: paul.a.koning@intel.com > >To: > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 10:57:22 -0700 (MST) > > > >I have some questions about the apparent hardiness difference between blue > >and yellow lantana. I have both planted in my front yard, the yellow > >lantanas are flourishing, but the blue lantanas are spindly and > >unattractive. > > > >Are there known hardiness issues between that I can act on? For example: > >blue lantana need more or less water, are more sensitive to soil pH, more > >susceptible to white fly infestations, ? > > > >Also does anyone have a suggestion for a full sun, low and colorful ground > >cover if the blue lantana don?t recover? Is the multicolor lantana any > >hardier? > > > >Background information: > >· They are planted in different beds; the landscape contractor did no soil > >amendment before planting. > >· The yellow are near a red Yucca, barrel cactus and mesquite, the blue > >near ocotillo and golden barrel cactus. > >· The yellow lantana may get a hour of morning and evening shade but both > >yellow and blue get unfiltered get full day sun. > >· Both are on the same drip irrigation line. > >· Both get white fly infestations during the summer. > >· I use an insecticidal soap to try to control the white fly. Should I use > >something else? > > > >Any information would be greatly appreciated! > > > >Paul Koning > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Arid_gardener mailing list > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: > http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From umiller@azdps.com Thu Feb 7 02:20:30 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 19:20:30 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200202060228.g162S5D04964@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Yesiree, those bunnies!!! I had the same problem. Go to this site: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener and type in rabbits and search the archives for previous discussions on this. You may also find something on quail if you type that in. My own solution was to finally put a wall around my yard with gates. (I have a fairly small yard.) Even that didn't do the trick 100% because the bunnies would dig under the gates and get in. So I built little piles of rocks along the bottom of the gates to prevent them from coming in and also still allow water runoff during heavy rains. The wall was a drastic move, but worth it. Now I now have petunias, stock and other flowers back there and I'm happy. I was clearly the loser in my two-year fight with the rabbits. I wish you lots of luck because I know how frustrating this is. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of azlady3@aol.com Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2002 7:28 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I need some advice quick! Everytime I put flowers out in my back yard they are consumed by either the bunnies or quail. THey have eated at least $300 worth of flowers and show no signs of stopping. Have you a clue as to what to do? Maybe you could suggest something to plant that they do not like. They have consumed Hopping John, Petunias, geraniums. One more question: I need to know how to keep pidgeons from liking my roof so much. Messy and bully the quail. But they do not eat the plants! Thanks, CC _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From paul.a.koning@intel.com Thu Feb 7 02:32:58 2002 From: paul.a.koning@intel.com (Koning, Paul A) Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 18:32:58 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] lantana Message-ID: Thank you for the reply. So if the bloom/seed cycle of the blue/purple lantana is the root cause of the lack of robustness, then my pruning off the flower heads before the seed set should help the plant out. Does this sound like a good plan of action? Paul K. -----Original Message----- From: Pamela Tremain Koch [mailto:pamela@u.arizona.edu] Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2002 5:16 PM To: Linda Drew; paul.a.koning@intel.com; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] lantana This is definately from a non-expert--but I bought some of the Yellow Lantana last year because I read an article that they were the longest blooming of all lantana--they were designed not to set seed as often as other kinds and therefore their bloom period was geatly extended when compared with most others. What you are seeing might be a result of this extended bloom period. Pamela ----- Original Message ----- From: "Linda Drew" To: ; Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2002 6:32 AM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] lantana > > If possible, can you find the botanic names for the two > lantanas that were planted? > > I've taken a guess here on two lantana species. > > Lantana camara (in shades of pink, yellow, red) is a > tough shrub from the tropics/Caribbean. > Light: Sun, part shade. > Moisture: Well drained soil, drought resistant. Too much water and > fertilizer will reduce bloom. > Hardiness: USDA Zone 8 - 11, likes both humid and dry heat. Lantana is > killed at 28° F, but quickly grows back. > > Lantana montevidenis (in purplish shades) is a less > tough groundcover from South America. > Light: Sun or shade, but more flowers when grown in bright sun. > Moisture: Likes well drained light soils. > Hardiness: USDA Zone 8 - 10; will tolerate some freezing temperatures. Top > will die back in temperatures in the mid 20's F; frost gives the leaves a > purple tinge; will recover in spring. > > Linda Drew > Master Gardener > > >From: paul.a.koning@intel.com > >To: > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 10:57:22 -0700 (MST) > > > >I have some questions about the apparent hardiness difference between blue > >and yellow lantana. I have both planted in my front yard, the yellow > >lantanas are flourishing, but the blue lantanas are spindly and > >unattractive. > > > >Are there known hardiness issues between that I can act on? For example: > >blue lantana need more or less water, are more sensitive to soil pH, more > >susceptible to white fly infestations, ? > > > >Also does anyone have a suggestion for a full sun, low and colorful ground > >cover if the blue lantana don?t recover? Is the multicolor lantana any > >hardier? > > > >Background information: > >· They are planted in different beds; the landscape contractor did no soil > >amendment before planting. > >· The yellow are near a red Yucca, barrel cactus and mesquite, the blue > >near ocotillo and golden barrel cactus. > >· The yellow lantana may get a hour of morning and evening shade but both > >yellow and blue get unfiltered get full day sun. > >· Both are on the same drip irrigation line. > >· Both get white fly infestations during the summer. > >· I use an insecticidal soap to try to control the white fly. Should I use > >something else? > > > >Any information would be greatly appreciated! > > > >Paul Koning > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Arid_gardener mailing list > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: > http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From ccromell@amug.org Thu Feb 7 05:04:05 2002 From: ccromell@amug.org (Cathy Cromell) Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 22:04:05 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] any favorite heirloom varieties? Message-ID: Does anyone have favorite heirloom vegetables (mostly for flavor) or flowers (mostly for scent) that do well in the low desert? I'd appreciate learning what varieties you've had success with. Thanks. Cathy Cromell From pamela@u.arizona.edu Thu Feb 7 05:11:36 2002 From: pamela@u.arizona.edu (Pamela Tremain Koch) Date: Thu, 07 Feb 2002 13:11:36 +0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] lantana References: Message-ID: <01a301c1af96$004a2960$25e8d690@cityu.edu.hk> Clipping spent flowers always helps prolong bloom, although the lantana has so many flowers this might be quite a task on a regular basis. I must admit to replacing my purple with a yellow one as they do bloom so much longer and better. Here is a link about lantana varieties that confirms my initial thought: http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/cemap/lantanagold/lantana.html Pamela ----- Original Message ----- From: "Koning, Paul A" To: "'Pamela Tremain Koch'" ; "Linda Drew" ; "Koning, Paul A" ; Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2002 10:32 AM Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] lantana > Thank you for the reply. > > So if the bloom/seed cycle of the blue/purple lantana is the root cause of > the lack of robustness, then my pruning off the flower heads before the seed > set should help the plant out. Does this sound like a good plan of action? > > Paul K. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Pamela Tremain Koch [mailto:pamela@u.arizona.edu] > Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2002 5:16 PM > To: Linda Drew; paul.a.koning@intel.com; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] lantana > > This is definately from a non-expert--but I bought some of the Yellow > Lantana last year because I read an article that they were the longest > blooming of all lantana--they were designed not to set seed as often as > other kinds and therefore their bloom period was geatly extended when > compared with most others. What you are seeing might be a result of this > extended bloom period. > > Pamela > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Linda Drew" > To: ; > Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2002 6:32 AM > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] lantana > > > > > > If possible, can you find the botanic names for the two > > lantanas that were planted? > > > > I've taken a guess here on two lantana species. > > > > Lantana camara (in shades of pink, yellow, red) is a > > tough shrub from the tropics/Caribbean. > > Light: Sun, part shade. > > Moisture: Well drained soil, drought resistant. Too much water and > > fertilizer will reduce bloom. > > Hardiness: USDA Zone 8 - 11, likes both humid and dry heat. Lantana is > > killed at 28° F, but quickly grows back. > > > > Lantana montevidenis (in purplish shades) is a less > > tough groundcover from South America. > > Light: Sun or shade, but more flowers when grown in bright sun. > > Moisture: Likes well drained light soils. > > Hardiness: USDA Zone 8 - 10; will tolerate some freezing temperatures. Top > > will die back in temperatures in the mid 20's F; frost gives the leaves a > > purple tinge; will recover in spring. > > > > Linda Drew > > Master Gardener > > > > >From: paul.a.koning@intel.com > > >To: > > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > >Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 10:57:22 -0700 (MST) > > > > > >I have some questions about the apparent hardiness difference between > blue > > >and yellow lantana. I have both planted in my front yard, the yellow > > >lantanas are flourishing, but the blue lantanas are spindly and > > >unattractive. > > > > > >Are there known hardiness issues between that I can act on? For example: > > >blue lantana need more or less water, are more sensitive to soil pH, more > > >susceptible to white fly infestations, ? > > > > > >Also does anyone have a suggestion for a full sun, low and colorful > ground > > >cover if the blue lantana don?t recover? Is the multicolor lantana any > > >hardier? > > > > > >Background information: > > >· They are planted in different beds; the landscape contractor did no > soil > > >amendment before planting. > > >· The yellow are near a red Yucca, barrel cactus and mesquite, the blue > > >near ocotillo and golden barrel cactus. > > >· The yellow lantana may get a hour of morning and evening shade but both > > >yellow and blue get unfiltered get full day sun. > > >· Both are on the same drip irrigation line. > > >· Both get white fly infestations during the summer. > > >· I use an insecticidal soap to try to control the white fly. Should I > use > > >something else? > > > > > >Any information would be greatly appreciated! > > > > > >Paul Koning > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > > >Arid_gardener mailing list > > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: > > http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Koning, Paul A" To: "'Pamela Tremain Koch'" ; "Linda Drew" ; "Koning, Paul A" ; Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2002 10:32 AM Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] lantana > Thank you for the reply. > > So if the bloom/seed cycle of the blue/purple lantana is the root cause of > the lack of robustness, then my pruning off the flower heads before the seed > set should help the plant out. Does this sound like a good plan of action? > > Paul K. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Pamela Tremain Koch [mailto:pamela@u.arizona.edu] > Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2002 5:16 PM > To: Linda Drew; paul.a.koning@intel.com; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] lantana > > This is definately from a non-expert--but I bought some of the Yellow > Lantana last year because I read an article that they were the longest > blooming of all lantana--they were designed not to set seed as often as > other kinds and therefore their bloom period was geatly extended when > compared with most others. What you are seeing might be a result of this > extended bloom period. > > Pamela > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Linda Drew" > To: ; > Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2002 6:32 AM > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] lantana > > > > > > If possible, can you find the botanic names for the two > > lantanas that were planted? > > > > I've taken a guess here on two lantana species. > > > > Lantana camara (in shades of pink, yellow, red) is a > > tough shrub from the tropics/Caribbean. > > Light: Sun, part shade. > > Moisture: Well drained soil, drought resistant. Too much water and > > fertilizer will reduce bloom. > > Hardiness: USDA Zone 8 - 11, likes both humid and dry heat. Lantana is > > killed at 28° F, but quickly grows back. > > > > Lantana montevidenis (in purplish shades) is a less > > tough groundcover from South America. > > Light: Sun or shade, but more flowers when grown in bright sun. > > Moisture: Likes well drained light soils. > > Hardiness: USDA Zone 8 - 10; will tolerate some freezing temperatures. Top > > will die back in temperatures in the mid 20's F; frost gives the leaves a > > purple tinge; will recover in spring. > > > > Linda Drew > > Master Gardener > > > > >From: paul.a.koning@intel.com > > >To: > > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > >Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 10:57:22 -0700 (MST) > > > > > >I have some questions about the apparent hardiness difference between > blue > > >and yellow lantana. I have both planted in my front yard, the yellow > > >lantanas are flourishing, but the blue lantanas are spindly and > > >unattractive. > > > > > >Are there known hardiness issues between that I can act on? For example: > > >blue lantana need more or less water, are more sensitive to soil pH, more > > >susceptible to white fly infestations, ? > > > > > >Also does anyone have a suggestion for a full sun, low and colorful > ground > > >cover if the blue lantana don?t recover? Is the multicolor lantana any > > >hardier? > > > > > >Background information: > > >· They are planted in different beds; the landscape contractor did no > soil > > >amendment before planting. > > >· The yellow are near a red Yucca, barrel cactus and mesquite, the blue > > >near ocotillo and golden barrel cactus. > > >· The yellow lantana may get a hour of morning and evening shade but both > > >yellow and blue get unfiltered get full day sun. > > >· Both are on the same drip irrigation line. > > >· Both get white fly infestations during the summer. > > >· I use an insecticidal soap to try to control the white fly. Should I > use > > >something else? > > > > > >Any information would be greatly appreciated! > > > > > >Paul Koning > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > > >Arid_gardener mailing list > > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: > > http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From jbegeman@Ag.arizona.edu Thu Feb 7 15:57:07 2002 From: jbegeman@Ag.arizona.edu (John Begeman) Date: Thu, 07 Feb 2002 08:57:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Summer Garden Tour to France Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20020207085546.00ae2be0@ag.arizona.edu> The Second Annual French Garden Tour "Paris to Provence" is scheduled for departure from Tucson on July 21, 2002. This 13 day, 12 night tour includes some of the most spectacular gardens in all of Europe; including Monet's garden at Giverney, the Loire Valley chateau gardens of Villandry and Chenonceau, Villa Ephrusi Rothschild in Nice, and the Exotic Gardens of Monaco and Eze, to name just a few. In addition this tour includes visits to the lavender fields of Provence, the International Perfume Museum in Grasse, and a day touring the private gardens of Provence with noted garden writer Louisa Jones - author of "Gardens in Provence" and "The French Country Garden". For a detailed tour itinerary and reservation form visit the tour web-site at: www.gildedagetours.com John P. Begeman, M.S. Urban Horticulture Agent Pima County Cooperative Extension Phone: (520) 626-5161 Fax: (520) 626-5849 jbegeman@ag.arizona.edu From CoastalRose@att.net Thu Feb 7 16:50:38 2002 From: CoastalRose@att.net (Harmony) Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 08:50:38 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Live Oak tree in Texas Message-ID: <001001c1aff7$92cd3730$5226500c@Blue> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C1AFB4.84A9F730 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_001_0012_01C1AFB4.84A9F730" ------=_NextPart_001_0012_01C1AFB4.84A9F730 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit My nephew lives near Dallas and transplanted a live oak tree that is 15' tall with a trunk base around 4" in diameter. He planted it 2' deep. The tree looked "normal" for the first two weeks then the leaves started losing their color from green to pale tan with a few dark green spots scattered within each leaf. It got worse for another couple of weeks. They added a root stimulator but not sure if it was mixed correctly. He watered it intensely, trying to dilute any excess root stimulator (if there was any). After two weeks, the tree looked the same so they mixed a new batch and applied it. That was a month ago and the tree's leaves that were falling then had stopped after about three weeks from when they started. It left about 25% of the original leaves still intact. Should he give it another dose of root stimulator? Should he cut the small sucker branches off now or wait until the tree recovers? What will be the best fertilizer to use once the weather warms? We appreciate any suggestions that you may have. Harmony ------=_NextPart_001_0012_01C1AFB4.84A9F730 Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

     My nephew lives near = Dallas and transplanted a live oak tree that is 15’ = tall with a trunk base around 4” in diameter.  He planted it 2’ deep.

    The tree looked = “normal” for the first two weeks then the leaves started losing their color from = green to pale tan with a few dark green spots scattered within each leaf.  It got worse for another couple = of weeks.

    They added a root stimulator but = not sure if it was mixed correctly.  He watered it intensely, trying to dilute any excess root stimulator (if = there was any).  After two weeks, the = tree looked the same so they mixed a new batch and applied = it.

    That was a month ago and the = tree’s leaves that were falling then had stopped after about three weeks from when = they started.  It left about 25% = of the original leaves still intact.

    Should he give it another dose of = root stimulator?  Should he cut = the small sucker branches off now or wait until the tree recovers?  What will be the best = fertilizer to use once the weather warms?

    We appreciate any suggestions that = you may have.

    Harmony=

     <= /p>

     

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RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 17:17:43 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Live Oak tree in Texas Message-ID: <121.ba4a28f.29945707@aol.com> --part1_121.ba4a28f.29945707_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Harmony, Sounds as though the tree was not watered properly after planting, either over or under watered. I would not recommend using any more root stimulint nor should this newly planted tree be fertilized until it is a year old (from time of planting ). Likewise do not prune anything from the tree except dead, damaged or crossing branches for at least one year. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_121.ba4a28f.29945707_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Harmony,

    Sounds as though the tree was not watered properly after planting, either over or under watered.
    I would not recommend using any more root stimulint nor should this newly planted tree be fertilized until it is a year old (from time of planting ). Likewise do not prune anything from the tree except dead, damaged or crossing branches for at least one year.

    Good luck.

    Rod McKusick
    Master Gardener and Arborist     --part1_121.ba4a28f.29945707_boundary-- From CoastalRose@att.net Fri Feb 8 00:19:42 2002 From: CoastalRose@att.net (Harmony) Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 16:19:42 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Live Oak tree in Texas In-Reply-To: <121.ba4a28f.29945707@aol.com> Message-ID: <000e01c1b036$4ecc50e0$4f02500c@Blue> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C1AFF3.40A910E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Thank you very much, Rod, for your quick response. I appreciate your thoughts and I'll pass them along to my nephew. Harmony -----Original Message----- From: RodMcQ6@aol.com [mailto:RodMcQ6@aol.com] Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2002 2:18 PM To: CoastalRose@att.net Cc: arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Live Oak tree in Texas Harmony, Sounds as though the tree was not watered properly after planting, either over or under watered. I would not recommend using any more root stimulint nor should this newly planted tree be fertilized until it is a year old (from time of planting ). Likewise do not prune anything from the tree except dead, damaged or crossing branches for at least one year. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist ------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C1AFF3.40A910E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

    Thank you very much, Rod, for your = quick response.  I appreciate = your thoughts and I’ll pass them along to my = nephew.

     

    Harmony

     

    -----Original = Message-----
    From: RodMcQ6@aol.com [mailto:RodMcQ6@aol.com]
    Sent: Thursday, February = 07, 2002 2:18 PM
    To: = CoastalRose@att.net
    Cc: = arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu
    Subject: Re: = [Arid_gardener] Live Oak tree in Texas

     

    Harmony,

    Sounds as though the tree was not watered properly after planting, = either over or under watered.
    I would not recommend using any more root stimulint nor should this = newly planted tree be fertilized until it is a year old (from time of planting = ). Likewise do not prune anything from the tree except dead, damaged or = crossing branches for at least one year.

    Good luck.

    Rod McKusick
    Master Gardener and Arborist

    ------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C1AFF3.40A910E0-- From umiller@azdps.com Fri Feb 8 00:55:37 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 17:55:37 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] lantana In-Reply-To: <01a301c1af96$004a2960$25e8d690@cityu.edu.hk> Message-ID: Another option is to do what I did: Plant some new yellow ones between the purple ones which were there. That seems to assure that there's some color there almost all the time since their flowering also seems to be on different schedules. And, when they're both blooming, the yellow and purple look nice together. Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Pamela Tremain Koch Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2002 10:12 PM To: Koning, Paul A; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] lantana Clipping spent flowers always helps prolong bloom, although the lantana has so many flowers this might be quite a task on a regular basis. I must admit to replacing my purple with a yellow one as they do bloom so much longer and better. Here is a link about lantana varieties that confirms my initial thought: http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/cemap/lantanagold/lantana.html Pamela ----- Original Message ----- From: "Koning, Paul A" To: "'Pamela Tremain Koch'" ; "Linda Drew" ; "Koning, Paul A" ; Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2002 10:32 AM Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] lantana > Thank you for the reply. > > So if the bloom/seed cycle of the blue/purple lantana is the root cause of > the lack of robustness, then my pruning off the flower heads before the seed > set should help the plant out. Does this sound like a good plan of action? > > Paul K. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Pamela Tremain Koch [mailto:pamela@u.arizona.edu] > Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2002 5:16 PM > To: Linda Drew; paul.a.koning@intel.com; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] lantana > > This is definately from a non-expert--but I bought some of the Yellow > Lantana last year because I read an article that they were the longest > blooming of all lantana--they were designed not to set seed as often as > other kinds and therefore their bloom period was geatly extended when > compared with most others. What you are seeing might be a result of this > extended bloom period. > > Pamela > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Linda Drew" > To: ; > Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2002 6:32 AM > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] lantana > > > > > > If possible, can you find the botanic names for the two > > lantanas that were planted? > > > > I've taken a guess here on two lantana species. > > > > Lantana camara (in shades of pink, yellow, red) is a > > tough shrub from the tropics/Caribbean. > > Light: Sun, part shade. > > Moisture: Well drained soil, drought resistant. Too much water and > > fertilizer will reduce bloom. > > Hardiness: USDA Zone 8 - 11, likes both humid and dry heat. Lantana is > > killed at 28° F, but quickly grows back. > > > > Lantana montevidenis (in purplish shades) is a less > > tough groundcover from South America. > > Light: Sun or shade, but more flowers when grown in bright sun. > > Moisture: Likes well drained light soils. > > Hardiness: USDA Zone 8 - 10; will tolerate some freezing temperatures. Top > > will die back in temperatures in the mid 20's F; frost gives the leaves a > > purple tinge; will recover in spring. > > > > Linda Drew > > Master Gardener > > > > >From: paul.a.koning@intel.com > > >To: > > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > >Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 10:57:22 -0700 (MST) > > > > > >I have some questions about the apparent hardiness difference between > blue > > >and yellow lantana. I have both planted in my front yard, the yellow > > >lantanas are flourishing, but the blue lantanas are spindly and > > >unattractive. > > > > > >Are there known hardiness issues between that I can act on? For example: > > >blue lantana need more or less water, are more sensitive to soil pH, more > > >susceptible to white fly infestations, ? > > > > > >Also does anyone have a suggestion for a full sun, low and colorful > ground > > >cover if the blue lantana don?t recover? Is the multicolor lantana any > > >hardier? > > > > > >Background information: > > >· They are planted in different beds; the landscape contractor did no > soil > > >amendment before planting. > > >· The yellow are near a red Yucca, barrel cactus and mesquite, the blue > > >near ocotillo and golden barrel cactus. > > >· The yellow lantana may get a hour of morning and evening shade but both > > >yellow and blue get unfiltered get full day sun. > > >· Both are on the same drip irrigation line. > > >· Both get white fly infestations during the summer. > > >· I use an insecticidal soap to try to control the white fly. Should I > use > > >something else? > > > > > >Any information would be greatly appreciated! > > > > > >Paul Koning > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > > >Arid_gardener mailing list > > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: > > http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Koning, Paul A" To: "'Pamela Tremain Koch'" ; "Linda Drew" ; "Koning, Paul A" ; Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2002 10:32 AM Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] lantana > Thank you for the reply. > > So if the bloom/seed cycle of the blue/purple lantana is the root cause of > the lack of robustness, then my pruning off the flower heads before the seed > set should help the plant out. Does this sound like a good plan of action? > > Paul K. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Pamela Tremain Koch [mailto:pamela@u.arizona.edu] > Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2002 5:16 PM > To: Linda Drew; paul.a.koning@intel.com; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] lantana > > This is definately from a non-expert--but I bought some of the Yellow > Lantana last year because I read an article that they were the longest > blooming of all lantana--they were designed not to set seed as often as > other kinds and therefore their bloom period was geatly extended when > compared with most others. What you are seeing might be a result of this > extended bloom period. > > Pamela > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Linda Drew" > To: ; > Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2002 6:32 AM > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] lantana > > > > > > If possible, can you find the botanic names for the two > > lantanas that were planted? > > > > I've taken a guess here on two lantana species. > > > > Lantana camara (in shades of pink, yellow, red) is a > > tough shrub from the tropics/Caribbean. > > Light: Sun, part shade. > > Moisture: Well drained soil, drought resistant. Too much water and > > fertilizer will reduce bloom. > > Hardiness: USDA Zone 8 - 11, likes both humid and dry heat. Lantana is > > killed at 28° F, but quickly grows back. > > > > Lantana montevidenis (in purplish shades) is a less > > tough groundcover from South America. > > Light: Sun or shade, but more flowers when grown in bright sun. > > Moisture: Likes well drained light soils. > > Hardiness: USDA Zone 8 - 10; will tolerate some freezing temperatures. Top > > will die back in temperatures in the mid 20's F; frost gives the leaves a > > purple tinge; will recover in spring. > > > > Linda Drew > > Master Gardener > > > > >From: paul.a.koning@intel.com > > >To: > > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > >Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 10:57:22 -0700 (MST) > > > > > >I have some questions about the apparent hardiness difference between > blue > > >and yellow lantana. I have both planted in my front yard, the yellow > > >lantanas are flourishing, but the blue lantanas are spindly and > > >unattractive. > > > > > >Are there known hardiness issues between that I can act on? For example: > > >blue lantana need more or less water, are more sensitive to soil pH, more > > >susceptible to white fly infestations, ? > > > > > >Also does anyone have a suggestion for a full sun, low and colorful > ground > > >cover if the blue lantana don?t recover? Is the multicolor lantana any > > >hardier? > > > > > >Background information: > > >· They are planted in different beds; the landscape contractor did no > soil > > >amendment before planting. > > >· The yellow are near a red Yucca, barrel cactus and mesquite, the blue > > >near ocotillo and golden barrel cactus. > > >· The yellow lantana may get a hour of morning and evening shade but both > > >yellow and blue get unfiltered get full day sun. > > >· Both are on the same drip irrigation line. > > >· Both get white fly infestations during the summer. > > >· I use an insecticidal soap to try to control the white fly. Should I > use > > >something else? > > > > > >Any information would be greatly appreciated! > > > > > >Paul Koning > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > > >Arid_gardener mailing list > > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: > > http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From vakug@earthlink.net Fri Feb 8 04:19:13 2002 From: vakug@earthlink.net (vakug@earthlink.net) Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 21:19:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202080419.g184JDD20205@Ag.arizona.edu> We have a grapefruit tree that has nice fruit on it, but are almost tasteless. Is this due to not enough water or not enough fertilizer, or what? When DO you put fertilizer on them and how often? From jkasko@getnet.net Fri Feb 8 12:52:14 2002 From: jkasko@getnet.net (jkasko) Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 05:52:14 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200201181958.g0IJwRe28937@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <004701c1b09f$6f394f40$fc22893f@oemcomputer> ka ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 12:58 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I areceived a miniature evergreen as a gift. The paperwork says it may be transplanted outdoors. My questions are how large will it grow and will it really survive our summer heat? I have an area with afternoon shade that might work, if it doesn't grow to 10 feet!! Many thanks for your help. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Feb 8 16:11:44 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 11:11:44 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit Tree, fertilizing and watering Message-ID: <76.170e4c96.299552c0@aol.com> --part1_76.170e4c96.299552c0_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit A mature grapefruit tree should be fertilized three to four times a year at the rate of one pound of actual nitrogen per year. Using a fertilizer with an analysis of 21/0/0 you would apply five pounds per year. If you live in the low desert and you have a clay soil you should be applying approximately six inches of water to the entire root zone of the tree once per week in the summer. In the winter apply the same amount of water but extend the interval to three to four weeks. Too much fertilizer or not enough water could cause a taste problem. An excellent bullitin titled Citrus Trees in the Home Garden is available for $1.00 from Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_76.170e4c96.299552c0_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit A mature grapefruit tree should be fertilized three to four times a year at the rate of one pound of actual nitrogen per year. Using a fertilizer with an analysis of 21/0/0 you would apply five pounds per year. If you live in the low desert and you have a clay soil you should be applying approximately six inches of water to the entire root zone of the tree once per week in the summer. In the winter apply the same amount of water but extend the interval to three to four weeks.
    Too much fertilizer or not enough water could cause a taste problem.

    An excellent bullitin titled Citrus Trees in the Home Garden is available for $1.00 from Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040.

    Good luck

    Rod McKusick
    Master Gardener
    --part1_76.170e4c96.299552c0_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Feb 8 16:23:31 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 11:23:31 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Evergreen tree Message-ID: <21.18ae50d6.29955583@aol.com> --part1_21.18ae50d6.29955583_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If you will give us the botanical name or even the common name of your tree and where you live we should be able to help you as to size and envirement required. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_21.18ae50d6.29955583_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If you will give us the botanical name or even the common name of your tree and where you live we should be able to help you as to size and envirement required.

    Good luck

    Rod McKusick
    Master Gardener

    --part1_21.18ae50d6.29955583_boundary-- From aj2573@aol.com Fri Feb 8 16:33:55 2002 From: aj2573@aol.com (aj2573@aol.com) Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 09:33:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202081633.g18GXtD15372@Ag.arizona.edu> What is a good foundation plant that is colorful to be planted in a western exposure? From kidolibrarian@yahoo.com Fri Feb 8 17:38:31 2002 From: kidolibrarian@yahoo.com (kidolibrarian@yahoo.com) Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 10:38:31 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202081738.g18HcVD00461@Ag.arizona.edu> We live in Tempe. Our problem is that we have taken out a big shade tree recently (an old mulberry)and would like to replace that space with another tree that offers shade. We were wondering if there are any type of fruit trees that also double as a shade tree in the back yard. From mariannehuber@cableone.net Fri Feb 8 18:09:13 2002 From: mariannehuber@cableone.net (mariannehuber@cableone.net) Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 11:09:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202081809.g18I9DD07263@Ag.arizona.edu> What is the gardening climate zone for Prescott,AZ? From mariannehuber@cableone.net Fri Feb 8 18:09:14 2002 From: mariannehuber@cableone.net (mariannehuber@cableone.net) Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 11:09:14 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202081809.g18I9ED07268@Ag.arizona.edu> What is the gardening climate zone for Prescott,AZ? From m.myer@rraz.net Fri Feb 8 18:57:23 2002 From: m.myer@rraz.net (m.myer@rraz.net) Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 11:57:23 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202081857.g18IvND18849@Ag.arizona.edu> I live in Lake Havasu City - when should I fertilize my citrus trees? Our highs are in the low 70's and going up, and our lows are in low 40's. Thank you. From phg@citieswestpub.com Fri Feb 8 18:58:28 2002 From: phg@citieswestpub.com (phg@citieswestpub.com) Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 11:58:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202081858.g18IwRD19139@Ag.arizona.edu> When does one harvest cauliflower out here? I planted some seedlings in fall, and now I'm starting to see the white of the cauliflower forming, but have no idea when to pick it. Also, when should you harvest cabbage? From brady4848@aol.com Sat Feb 9 00:54:26 2002 From: brady4848@aol.com (brady4848@aol.com) Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 17:54:26 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202090054.g190sQc00857@Ag.arizona.edu> Is there anything I can do to help my 24 bougevalia's recover from almost total leaf loss due to quick frost earlier this week? Thanks JB From brady4848@aol.com Sat Feb 9 00:54:58 2002 From: brady4848@aol.com (brady4848@aol.com) Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 17:54:58 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202090054.g190swc00967@Ag.arizona.edu> Is there anything I can do to help my 24 bougevalia's recover from almost total leaf loss due to quick frost earlier this week? Thanks Joe Brady From Phylfern11@aol.com Sat Feb 9 01:08:10 2002 From: Phylfern11@aol.com (Phylfern11@aol.com) Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 18:08:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202090108.g1918Ac02485@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like to know the fertilizing and watering methods fdor new citrus trees just planted by a nursery 2 weeks ago and also for the same for an early elberta peach tree. Thank you From MilesAZ@aol.com Sat Feb 9 04:27:15 2002 From: MilesAZ@aol.com (MilesAZ@aol.com) Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 21:27:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202090427.g194RFi13824@Ag.arizona.edu> Is there a list of plants which grow well in less than 7 hours of sun each day, and grow no more than 3 - 4 feet in height? From gschulte@infinet-is.com Sat Feb 9 04:37:08 2002 From: gschulte@infinet-is.com (gschulte@infinet-is.com) Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 21:37:08 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202090437.g194b8i14398@Ag.arizona.edu> Can you tell me why the fruit of our orange trees is so dry. The trees are only in a few years now, but were better last year. They are semi dwarf valencias. The early one was ready in late December or early January a year ago. But they are tasting somewhat green this year in February. Are these two problems related? What can we do to prevent this next winter? Thanks From beeb524@aol.com Sat Feb 9 08:56:44 2002 From: beeb524@aol.com (beeb524@aol.com) Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 01:56:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202090856.g198uii04278@Ag.arizona.edu> I planted (what was tagged as) a blood orange tree about 6 years ago. We've gotten fruit on the tree for the first time this year. Although the oranges are extremely sweet, they are not red. Why? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Feb 9 15:01:18 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2002 15:01:18 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] blood orange, no red color Message-ID: >From: beeb524@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 01:56:44 -0700 (MST) > >I planted (what was tagged as) a blood orange tree about 6 years ago. >We've gotten fruit on the tree for the first time this year. Although the >oranges are extremely sweet, they are not red. Why? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Pigmented oranges (blood oranges) are dependent on cool temperatures to produce the red color in the fruit and sometimes the peel. Because of this some varieties produce little or no color in the Salt River Valley. The variety that produces the most consistent dark red internal color here is Salustiana. _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From umiller@azdps.com Sat Feb 9 15:18:52 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 08:18:52 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvillea Frost Damage In-Reply-To: <200202090054.g190swc00967@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Joe - This happened to me, too - this year and a couple of years ago. I did nothing. Once the weather warmed up, the bush started turning green again. If there are some branches that are clearly frost damaged, you may want to cut them off next month. Maybe one of the master gardeners has some other good advice, but this worked for me - not a master gardener, just sometime trying to keep things growing. Also, you can go to this site and type in bougainvillea frost damage and search previous archives for information on this topic (or any other topic on gardening in the arid west: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of brady4848@aol.com Sent: Friday, February 08, 2002 5:55 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Is there anything I can do to help my 24 bougevalia's recover from almost total leaf loss due to quick frost earlier this week? Thanks Joe Brady _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Feb 9 15:20:55 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2002 15:20:55 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] citrus, dry fruit Message-ID: Your fruit could be dry for several reasons -- perhaps the tree did not get enough water when the fruit were rapidly growing, or a night or two of cold temperatures with the tree unprotected can result in dry fruit. Sometimes the root stock used can affect the fruit. I would suspect that the fruit got too much cold this year. I would recommend taking good care of the trees, especially regarding adequate watering and fertilizing 3 times (February, May and September). Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: gschulte@infinet-is.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 21:37:08 -0700 (MST) > >Can you tell me why the fruit of our orange trees is so dry. The trees are >only in a few years now, but were better last year. They are semi dwarf >valencias. The early one was ready in late December or early January a >year ago. But they are tasting somewhat green this year in February. Are >these two problems related? What can we do to prevent this next winter? >Thanks > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Feb 9 15:27:30 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2002 15:27:30 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] plant lists Message-ID: >From: MilesAZ@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 21:27:15 -0700 (MST) > >Is there a list of plants which grow well in less than 7 hours of sun each >day, and grow no more than 3 - 4 feet in height? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener "Flower Planting Guide For the Low Desert" includes information about light requirements. Check for this and other publications at: http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening and select "publications" Check your local library for books on desert gardening. Judi Meilke's book has lists in the back, including a list of plants that do not need full sun. Linda Drew Master Gardener _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Feb 9 15:32:29 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2002 15:32:29 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] citrus care Message-ID: Univ. of Arizona publishes an excellent bulletin titled Citrus trees in the Home Garden which should answer most of your questions about citrus and is available for $1.00 from Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Phylfern11@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 18:08:10 -0700 (MST) > >I would like to know the fertilizing and watering methods fdor new citrus >trees just planted by a nursery 2 weeks ago and also for the same for an >early elberta peach tree. Thank you > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From robert.mongrain@amec.com Sat Feb 9 21:41:41 2002 From: robert.mongrain@amec.com (robert.mongrain@amec.com) Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 14:41:41 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202092141.g19LfPi07038@Ag.arizona.edu> I did not complete a major pruning for my roses last year, and they are moderately large (up to 5.5 feet tall and 3-5 feet around). I would like to complete a major pruning, as the plants appear somewhat overgrown, but am concerned about taking out too much from the plants at once. Should I prune them back in stages, or cut them back to several canes all at once? From gordonphillips1@netzero.net Sat Feb 9 22:12:12 2002 From: gordonphillips1@netzero.net (gordonphillips1@netzero.net) Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 15:12:12 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202092212.g19MCCi09656@Ag.arizona.edu> Does anybody have recommendations for a Windows software package that will do Xeriscaping in the Mesa area? From lafnepf@aol.com Sun Feb 10 04:09:28 2002 From: lafnepf@aol.com (lafnepf@aol.com) Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 21:09:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202100409.g1A49Si12641@Ag.arizona.edu> Can you tell me anything about "Surecrop Nectarine"......for the Phoenix area. Also, is it self-pollinating? From dealejandro_family@yahoo.com Sun Feb 10 05:26:06 2002 From: dealejandro_family@yahoo.com (Edward & Jackee De Alejandro) Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 22:26:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tomatoes In-Reply-To: <004001c1aeb8$2d206dc0$c8d8323f@oemcomputer> Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C1B1B8.C462E980 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Just picked up Early Girl and Heat wave varieties of tomato at Lowe's in Surprise. I have never grown either variety. I am hoping the Early Girl will give the first few crops and the Heat wave to last until July/Aug....we will see though. Please let me know if anyone has had any luck with growing Heat wave during the summer and how it tastes. I bought some Brandywine seeds and am going to try them out. I don't have the first clue about that variety....just want to see what happens. I do have a question: What exactly kills the pollen during the summer, the sun or the heat? Will planting the tomato on the east side with morning sun and afternoon shade make any difference? How about shade cloth or misters for plants on the west or south side? I have read the book Desert Gardening and it doesn't answer my question. Thanks so much for you guys' help!!!!! Jackee www.dealejandro.com -----Original Message----- From: Tom & Linda Watson [mailto:watsontl@mindspring.com] Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2002 7:44 PM To: Edward & Jackee De Alejandro Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] frozen plants All I ever grow are "Early Girl" and "Sweet 100" (cherry type) tomatoes. They seem very good at handling heat, and can usually be counted on to get a crop ripened before it really heats up. I've never tried so-called heat resistant varieties. If anybody has/does it would be interesting to hear about the results. Tom ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C1B1B8.C462E980 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
    Just=20 picked up Early Girl and Heat wave varieties of tomato at Lowe's in = Surprise. I have never grown either variety. I am hoping the Early Girl = will=20 give the first few crops and the Heat wave to last until July/Aug....we = will see=20 though. Please let me know if anyone has had any luck = with=20 growing Heat wave during the summer and how it tastes. I bought some = Brandywine=20 seeds and am going to try them out. I don't have the first clue about = that=20 variety....just want to see what happens.
     
    I do=20 have a question: What exactly kills the pollen during the summer, the = sun or the=20 heat? Will planting the tomato on the east side with morning sun and = afternoon=20 shade make any difference? How about shade cloth or misters for plants = on the=20 west or south side? I have read the book Desert Gardening and it doesn't = answer=20 my question.
     
    Thanks=20 so much for you guys' help!!!!!
     

    Jackee

    www.dealejandro.com

    -----Original Message-----
    From: Tom & Linda = Watson=20 [mailto:watsontl@mindspring.com]
    Sent: Tuesday, February 05, = 2002 7:44=20 PM
    To: Edward & Jackee De Alejandro
    Subject: Re: = [Arid_gardener] frozen plants

    All I ever grow are "Early Girl" and "Sweet 100" = (cherry type)=20 tomatoes.   They seem very good at handling heat, and can = usually be=20 counted on to get a crop ripened before it really heats up.  =20 I've never tried so-called heat resistant varieties.  = If=20 anybody has/does it would be interesting to hear about the=20 results.
     
    Tom
    ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C1B1B8.C462E980-- From brown.1362@aol.com Sun Feb 10 15:07:00 2002 From: brown.1362@aol.com (brown.1362@aol.com) Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 08:07:00 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202101507.g1AF70i03457@Ag.arizona.edu> i have a orange or lemon tree in a pot in my house it's my moms but for some reason the leaves are falling off is this normal it stands 6' also it has thorns on it they started from a seed six yrs ago i've never seen a orange or lemon tree are they suppost to have thorns also i water it every week- 14 days From gardenguru" Message-ID: <02c101c1b249$dc1e1400$19382ace@ibm22761658747> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_02A8_01C1B209.75CB6BC0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable The extension service has 2 doc. to assist you with tomatoes in Phx. = Providing afternoon shade will help tomatoes alittle but it is the heat = that affect them the most. Tomatoes stop setting fruit below 55 and = above 90. The early varieties like early girl and sweet 100s will set = fruit between 2/15 and 6/1 approx. so all you have to worry about in = assurring proper fert and watering and protect them from the various = insects and birds once they start turning red. These docs provide some = varieties tested by the U of A Arig. Dept. Q295 Tomatoes =20 MC22 Tomatoes in Desert Gardens =20 These are avail for $1=20 In Phoenix Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway = Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 ------=_NextPart_000_02A8_01C1B209.75CB6BC0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
     The extension service has 2 = doc. to=20 assist you with tomatoes in Phx. Providing afternoon shade will help = tomatoes=20 alittle but it is the heat that affect them the most. Tomatoes stop = setting=20 fruit below 55 and above 90. The early varieties like early girl and = sweet 100s=20 will set fruit between 2/15 and 6/1 approx. so all you have to worry = about in=20 assurring proper fert and watering and protect them from the various = insects and=20 birds once they start  turning red. These docs provide some = varieties=20 tested by the U of A Arig. Dept.
    Q295 Tomatoes
     
    MC22
    		 Tomatoes in Desert Gardens=20
     These=20 are avail for $1=20

    In Phoenix = Maricopa County Cooperative Extension  = 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix,=20 AZ 85040

    ------=_NextPart_000_02A8_01C1B209.75CB6BC0-- From gardenguru" Message-ID: <02c201c1b249$dd96f860$19382ace@ibm22761658747> The Ext Service offers a good doc to assist you with pruning your roses. This is the proper time to prune your roses before spring growth begins. It is #8672 Roses for AZ. It is available from them for $1 at their office in Phx. Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 The ext service web page can also help you locate this publication at some of your local libraries http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden Hope this helps GG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, February 09, 2002 2:41 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I did not complete a major pruning for my roses last year, and they are moderately large (up to 5.5 feet tall and 3-5 feet around). I would like to complete a major pruning, as the plants appear somewhat overgrown, but am concerned about taking out too much from the plants at once. Should I prune them back in stages, or cut them back to several canes all at once? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From millero@worldnet.att.net Sun Feb 10 17:05:20 2002 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 10:05:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tomatoes References: Message-ID: <001101c1b259$184fc900$8a52530c@j0r9501> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Edward & Jackee De Alejandro" > Just picked up Early Girl and Heat wave varieties of tomato at Lowe's in > Surprise. I have never grown either variety. I am hoping the Early Girl will > give the first few crops and the Heat wave to last until July/Aug....we will > see though. Please let me know if anyone has had any luck with growing Heat > wave during the summer and how it tastes. Early Girl is usually a pretty reliable producer. Heatwave is said to be heat tolerant and yield best when daytime temps are in the 90-96 deg range. It has been a few years since I tried Heatwave but results at that time were disappointing. Heatwave is a determinate (bush) variety and should bear all of its fruit within a few weeks whereas Early Girl (an indeterminate variety) will continue to produce throughout the growing season. >... I bought some Brandywine seeds and > am going to try them out. I don't have the first clue about that > variety....just want to see what happens. There are red, pink, and yellow Brandywines. All are long season varieties that require about 3 months from transplant to the first harvest.. The pink version is said to be best in warm climates. Yield is not high in climates with long growing seasons and is poor in our desert climates - expect only a few tomatoes per plant. But the flavor is great and it is interesting to experiment if you have the time and space. > I do have a question: What exactly kills the pollen during the summer, the > sun or the heat? Will planting the tomato on the east side with morning sun > and afternoon shade make any difference? How about shade cloth or misters > for plants on the west or south side? I have read the book Desert Gardening > and it doesn't answer my question. Re. pollen: It's the heat the which is arguably a direct result of the hot sun. Afternoon shade is a good idea. Shade cloth is a must if you want to keep the temps down a few degress and extend the season a bit. I use 50 % shade from about mid April to May, but 75% is more helpful after about mid May. The shade cloth not only keeps the plants cooler but also helps protect against Curly Top Virus which is a disease vectored by the Beet Leaf Hopper - the leaf hopper insect that avoids shade. I am certain that misting would help but I have never tried that. There is a considerable variation in our growing seasons: from long (early spring - late summer), short (late spring - early summer) and variable window (early spring - early summer or late spring - late summer). You may find that varieties that perform well one year will give poor yields in other years, and vice versa>certain varieties will not perform consistently from year to year. The book "Desert Gardening" appears to be referenced to Tucson which is about 1,300 feet higher in elevation than the Phoenix area and is in different climate zones. The gardening advice in the book is excellent but one needs to keep in mind that Tucson summers are shorter and cooler (or maybe "not as hot" would be a better way to state it). Summer arrives a few weeks later and fall arrives a few weeks earlier. > > Thanks so much for you guys' help!!!!! > > Jackee > > www.dealejandro.com > > -----Original Message----- > From: Tom & Linda Watson [mailto:watsontl@mindspring.com] > Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2002 7:44 PM > To: Edward & Jackee De Alejandro > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] frozen plants > > > All I ever grow are "Early Girl" and "Sweet 100" (cherry type) tomatoes. > They seem very good at handling heat, and can usually be counted on to get a > crop ripened before it really heats up. I've never tried so-called heat > resistant varieties. If anybody has/does it would be interesting to hear > about the results. > > Tom > From millero@worldnet.att.net Sun Feb 10 17:33:38 2002 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 10:33:38 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200202100409.g1A49Si12641@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <001201c1b259$18d48960$8a52530c@j0r9501> In general, nectarines are not recommended for the Phoenix area due to long winter requirements and susceptibility to thrips for which there is no suitable control. Surecrop nectarine is self-fertile but reported to have a winter chill requirement of about 1,000 hours, way too high for the Phoenix area. See: http://www.aces.edu/dept/extcomm/publications/anr/anr-994/pdf/anr-994.pd f , p.4, table 1. ----- Original Message ----- From: > Can you tell me anything about "Surecrop Nectarine"......for the Phoenix area. Also, is it self-pollinating? From j-mharter@msn.com Sun Feb 10 17:46:04 2002 From: j-mharter@msn.com (j-mharter@msn.com) Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 10:46:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202101746.g1AHk4i15669@Ag.arizona.edu> Am wondering if it is OK for me to prune my shrubs now. Some of them include: fairy duster, chuprosa, mexican bird of paradise. Also, how far can I prune them back? Our home/yard was new 2 years ago, so these plants are still fairly young, yet outgrowing some of the spaces. From eev2@att.net Sun Feb 10 20:42:53 2002 From: eev2@att.net (eev2@att.net) Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 13:42:53 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202102042.g1AKgri01314@Ag.arizona.edu> Where can I find a good store that sells a good variety of fountains for my back yard? From JeanSciFi@aol.com Sun Feb 10 20:57:13 2002 From: JeanSciFi@aol.com (JeanSciFi@aol.com) Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 15:57:13 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: Hello, There are several but it would be best if we had some idea of what part of the valley you live. Thanks, Jean From morvac@msn.com Sun Feb 10 21:00:45 2002 From: morvac@msn.com (morvac@msn.com) Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 14:00:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202102100.g1AL0ji03568@Ag.arizona.edu> I need information about orange trees. We have one and it appears perhaps over fertilized or over watered. In one year it has shown no growth and the leaves are yellowed and curled. What do I have to do? Thanks Anne Chernis From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Feb 10 21:26:03 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 21:26:03 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus care Message-ID: There are several excellent citrus publications online. Go to: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Citrus You may want to start with the irrigation publication. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: morvac@msn.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 14:00:45 -0700 (MST) > >I need information about orange trees. We have one and it appears perhaps >over fertilized or over watered. In one year it has shown no growth and >the leaves are yellowed and curled. What do I have to do? >Thanks >Anne Chernis > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From jpmcavoy@uswest.net Sun Feb 10 23:24:18 2002 From: jpmcavoy@uswest.net (Patrick and Emily McAvoy) Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 16:24:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <000601c1b28a$10534c50$7b750d82@user> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0003_01C1B24F.63B43700 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Why would a potato bush tree lose its leaves in January in Phoenix? Emily=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0003_01C1B24F.63B43700 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
    Why would a potato bush tree lose its = leaves in=20 January in Phoenix?
     
    Emily
    ------=_NextPart_000_0003_01C1B24F.63B43700-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Feb 11 00:19:46 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 17:19:46 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tip for Tulips Message-ID: <3C670E21.7E0DFC98@qwest.net> I received an early Valentine's present: a dozen tulips from one of the remaining flower farms on Baseline. My husband was told to put two pennies in the water because the trace copper would keep the stems erect. Just wanted to report that this is no urban legend, it really works! From mdige1@worldnet.att.net Mon Feb 11 01:12:46 2002 From: mdige1@worldnet.att.net (mdige1@worldnet.att.net) Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 18:12:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202110112.g1B1Cki29881@Ag.arizona.edu> The oranges on my Hamlin tree have no flavor and are not juicey. The tree is 3 years old and I water every 12 days in the winter months and every 4 days in the summer using a drip system. I fertilize 3 times/year. At present I have approx. 3 doz. good sized oranges on the tree but no flavor. Can you offer any advice to improve the flavor? Thank You Mike From jackee@dealejandro.com Mon Feb 11 05:19:18 2002 From: jackee@dealejandro.com (Jackee De Alejandro) Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 22:19:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Seville Orange or not? You be the judge... Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01C1B280.FBEA9F60 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_001_0015_01C1B280.FBF24080" ------=_NextPart_001_0015_01C1B280.FBF24080 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hey guys!!! Another brain teaser for all you master gardeners.....Okay a while back I asked about the orange tree that I have in my front yard, if you don't remember I am attaching the old email to the bottom of this one. Well I have doing a little research into the sour or Seville orange. Here is a picture I pulled from the web of a Seville orange, if the listserv doesn't send the pic, point your browser to: http://www.1webblvd.com/coosemans/prod069.htm to see the pic. This is NOT what my oranges look like. My oranges have a smooth skin and have large (normal) size sections of meat. Honestly, they don't taste bad. I read that the sour orange is as bitter as a lemon. My orange is not that sour. Now my neighbor does have an orange tree in her yard and the skin of the oranges is bumpy. I even asked her what was wrong with her tree! I haven't tasted her orange, frankly, I thought it was diseased, but tomorrow I am going to go over and open one up and try it out. Please point me in the right direction as to how I can figure out what type of orange I have. Would taking an orange and leaf off of the tree to a nursery help? I just want to know what kind of tree I have because I am very interested in making the sour orange marmalade. Should I use my oranges (smooth) or my neighbors (bumpy)? Thanks so much!!!! Oh and THANK YOU!!! all for your wonderful advice on the tomatoes!!!!! I got six packs of each and I am going to plant them in containers so I can move them around my yard. I have great shade from a huge tree that I don't know the name of!!! It is so hard to move to a new region, inherit plants, and don't know what they are or how to care for them!! What is a Georgia Girl to do!!!! Thank goodness I have YOU! Thanks Y'all !!! Jackee Edward & Jackee De Alejandro wrote: > Hi, > I live on Luke AFB in Glendale. I have a mature orange tree that I have been > told is only for looks. I was told that we can not eat the oranges. Well > call me curious but my husband and I tasted one and they are not that > bad...they could be sweeter. My neighbor also said that she has eaten the > oranges off of this tree. > Someone told me that if the tree has thorns that you can't eat the fruit? Is > this true? Because this trees has what looks like thorns...Anyway, hope > someone can tell me the difference or point me in the right direction to > find out. > Oh yeah, the oranges stayed green all summer and once it cooled off they got > orange, what does that mean? Is that the normal cycle? I have never watered > this tree aside from the water it gets from us watering the lawn in the > summer. Please help! > > Jackee D. > ------=_NextPart_001_0015_01C1B280.FBF24080 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
    Hey = guys!!! Another=20 brain teaser for all you master gardeners.....Okay a while back I asked = about=20 the orange tree that I have in my front yard, if you don't remember I am = attaching the old email to the bottom of this one. Well I have doing a = little=20 research into the sour or Seville orange. Here is a picture I pulled = from the=20 web of a Seville orange, if the listserv doesn't send the pic, point = your=20 browser to: http://www.1webblvd.com/coosemans/prod069.htm  to=20 see the pic.
     
    This = is NOT what my=20 oranges look like. My oranges have a smooth skin and have large (normal) = size=20 sections of meat. Honestly, they don't taste bad. I read that the sour = orange is=20 as bitter as a lemon. My orange is not that sour. Now my neighbor does = have an=20 orange tree in her yard and the skin of the oranges is bumpy. I even = asked her=20 what was wrong with her tree! I haven't tasted her orange, frankly, I = thought it=20 was diseased, but tomorrow I am going to go over and open one up and try = it out.=20
     
    Please = point me in=20 the right direction as to how I can figure out what type of orange I = have. Would=20 taking an orange and leaf off of the tree to a nursery help? I just want = to know=20 what kind of tree I have because I am very interested in making the sour = orange=20 marmalade. Should I use my oranges (smooth) or my neighbors=20 (bumpy)?
     
    Thanks = so=20 much!!!!
     
    Oh and = THANK YOU!!!=20 all for your wonderful advice on the tomatoes!!!!! I got six packs of = each and I=20 am going to plant them in containers so I can move them around my yard. = I have=20 great shade from a huge tree that I don't know the name of!!! It is so = hard to=20 move to a new region, inherit plants, and don't know what they are or = how to=20 care for them!! What is a Georgia Girl to do!!!! Thank goodness I have=20 YOU!
     
    Thanks = Y'all=20 !!!
    Jackee=20
     
    3D"Seville

     

    Edward & Jackee De Alejandro wrote:

    > Hi,

    > I live on Luke AFB in Glendale. I have a mature orange tree that = I have=20 been

    > told is only for looks. I was told that we can not eat the = oranges.=20 Well

    > call me curious but my husband and I tasted one and they are not = that

    > bad...they could be sweeter. My neighbor also said that she has = eaten=20 the

    > oranges off of this tree.

    > Someone told me that if the tree has thorns that you can't eat = the=20 fruit? Is

    > this true? Because this trees has what looks like = thorns...Anyway,=20 hope

    > someone can tell me the difference or point me in the right = direction=20 to

    > find out.

    > Oh yeah, the oranges stayed green all summer and once it cooled = off they=20 got

    > orange, what does that mean? Is that the normal cycle? I have = never=20 watered

    > this tree aside from the water it gets from us watering the lawn = in=20 the

    > summer. Please help!

    >

    > Jackee D.

    >

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This happens on relatively new leaves as well as the old. The remaining green part of the leaf stays green. Would over watering do this? Something else? From gravistan@excite.com Mon Feb 11 19:01:54 2002 From: gravistan@excite.com (gravistan@excite.com) Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 12:01:54 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202111901.g1BJ1si24817@Ag.arizona.edu> how can I propagate plants from cuttings From jedwards428@hotmail.com Mon Feb 11 21:16:21 2002 From: jedwards428@hotmail.com (jedwards428@hotmail.com) Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 14:16:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202112116.g1BLGGi15924@Ag.arizona.edu> Starting fom scratch,were would I find information on soil preperation? From casacondesa@hotmail.com Mon Feb 11 21:47:35 2002 From: casacondesa@hotmail.com (casa condesa) Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 15:47:35 -0600 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bouganvilia Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C1B313.6CE3BF20 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi, I just got a beautiful bouganvilia and I have some conflicting advice as = to how much to water it. Could you please advise me on this, please? = It is planted in a pot and I live in Acapulco. It gets sun from morning = until around 2pm. =20 Hope you can help me out. I would really appreciate it. Frank Edris ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C1B313.6CE3BF20 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
    Hi,
     
    I just got a beautiful bouganvilia and = I have some=20 conflicting advice as to how much to water it.   Could you = please=20 advise me on this, please?  It is planted in a pot and I live in=20 Acapulco.  It gets sun from morning until around 2pm.  =
     
    Hope you can help me out.  I would = really=20 appreciate it.
     
    Frank Edris
    ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C1B313.6CE3BF20-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Feb 11 22:54:49 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 17:54:49 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Propagate from cuttings Message-ID: <14d.8c1bd95.2999a5b9@aol.com> --part1_14d.8c1bd95.2999a5b9_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The Master Gardener Manual has an excellent chapter on plant propagation available at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_14d.8c1bd95.2999a5b9_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The Master Gardener Manual has an excellent chapter on plant propagation available at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/index.html

    Good luck.

    Rod McKusick
    Master Gardener     --part1_14d.8c1bd95.2999a5b9_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Feb 11 22:58:48 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 17:58:48 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Soil preparation Message-ID: <199.2164d18.2999a6a8@aol.com> --part1_199.2164d18.2999a6a8_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The Master Gardener Manual has an excellent chapter on soils available at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_199.2164d18.2999a6a8_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The Master Gardener Manual has an excellent chapter on soils available at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/index.html

    Good luck.

    Rod McKusick
    Master Gardener

    --part1_199.2164d18.2999a6a8_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Feb 11 23:10:16 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 18:10:16 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus care Message-ID: <108.d2d6e9e.2999a958@aol.com> --part1_108.d2d6e9e.2999a958_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Mike, A mature grapefruit tree should be fertilized three to four times a year at the rate of one pound of actual nitrogen per year. Using a fertilizer with an analysis of 21/0/0 you would apply five pounds per year. If you live in the low desert and you have a clay soil you should be applying approximately six inches of water to the entire root zone of the tree once per week in the summer. In the winter apply the same amount of water but extend the interval to three to four weeks. Orange trees require approximately 50 % more fertilizer than grapefruit. Too much fertilizer, not enough water, or weather conditions could cause a taste problem. An excellent bulletin titled Citrus Trees in the Home Garden is available for $1.00 from Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_108.d2d6e9e.2999a958_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Mike,


    A mature grapefruit tree should be fertilized three to four times a year at the rate of one pound of actual nitrogen per year. Using a fertilizer with an analysis of 21/0/0 you would apply five pounds per year. If you live in the low desert and you have a clay soil you should be applying approximately six inches of water to the entire root zone of the tree once per week in the summer. In the winter apply the same amount of water but extend the interval to three to four weeks. Orange trees require approximately 50 % more fertilizer than grapefruit.
    Too much fertilizer, not enough water, or weather conditions could cause a taste problem.

    An excellent bulletin titled Citrus Trees in the Home Garden is available for $1.00 from Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040.

    Good luck

    Rod McKusick
    Master Gardener




    --part1_108.d2d6e9e.2999a958_boundary-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Feb 12 02:04:52 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 02:04:52 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bouganvilia Message-ID: >From: "casa condesa" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bouganvilia >Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 15:47:35 -0600 > >Hi, > >I just got a beautiful bouganvilia and I have some conflicting advice as to >how much to water it. Could you please advise me on this, please? It is >planted in a pot and I live in Acapulco. It gets sun from morning until >around 2pm. > >Hope you can help me out. I would really appreciate it. > >Frank Edris The advice we give for the interior deserts of SE Arizona is Bougainvillea does best in full sun with very little water and fertilizer. If it is in a pot, it may need a bit more water than if it were in the ground. If it is newly planted it will need some water until it is astablished. Do you have a local garden club in Acapulco? They could probably give you better advice for your location. Linda Drew Master Gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From robbobc@phnx.uswest.net Tue Feb 12 03:27:10 2002 From: robbobc@phnx.uswest.net (robbobc@phnx.uswest.net) Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 20:27:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202120327.g1C3RAi29428@Ag.arizona.edu> I have an interest in topiary, especially trees and shrubs. What plants fair well in the Gilbert area for topiary trimming? Plants wpould be located on the south side of the house. Thank you From jtelbracht@cox.net Tue Feb 12 04:53:46 2002 From: jtelbracht@cox.net (jtelbracht@cox.net) Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 21:53:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202120453.g1C4rki09541@Ag.arizona.edu> What is the appropriate method to prune a mulberry tree? I have an old fruitless and a fruit bearing mulberry tree. What is the appropriate way to prune. One of the trees was cut back to stubs many years ago. The other does not appear to have been trimmed. Should the long branches be pruned back to stubs or not? When it the best time of year to prune mulberry trees? Thanks. From justinssmith@boltblue.com Tue Feb 12 13:27:48 2002 From: justinssmith@boltblue.com (justinssmith@boltblue.com) Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 06:27:48 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202121327.g1CDRli28803@Ag.arizona.edu> you need to say all types of plants From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Feb 12 14:32:59 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 14:32:59 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning, mulberry Message-ID: Pruning information is available online at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm go to ornamentals, then "pruning deciduous shade trees" DO NOT cut the trees back to stubs. Selectively prune out dead wood, crossing branches. January is the best time to prune but you can probably still prune now. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: jtelbracht@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 21:53:46 -0700 (MST) > >What is the appropriate method to prune a mulberry tree? I have an old >fruitless and a fruit bearing mulberry tree. What is the appropriate way >to prune. One of the trees was cut back to stubs many years ago. The >other does not appear to have been trimmed. Should the long branches be >pruned back to stubs or not? When it the best time of year to prune >mulberry trees? Thanks. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From gardenguru" Message-ID: <04a801c1b3d3$3832a8c0$19382ace@ibm22761658747> I have had great success with Drawf Myrtle grown inside a wire form. They do well in pots, take full sun or part shade, are frost tolerant to 20 degrees, rabbit don't eat it and quickly fill out the form. Rosemary is also a good plant that tolerates our heat and soil conditions and is used for topiaries in forms or grown and shaped with not forms. Japanese privets are also easily shaped Hope this helps GG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, February 11, 2002 8:27 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I have an interest in topiary, especially trees and shrubs. What plants fair well in the Gilbert area for topiary trimming? Plants wpould be located on the south side of the house. > Thank you > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From vterrito@toddassoc.com Wed Feb 13 02:32:46 2002 From: vterrito@toddassoc.com (vterrito@toddassoc.com) Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 19:32:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202130232.g1D2Wji06092@Ag.arizona.edu> I live in the Dobson Ranch area in Mesa. I lived there since 1985. In the last 3 Years the Scorpion population has gotten out of hand.Prior to 1999 we had no scorpion problems.It is getting worse every summer. Pest control only goes so far. I have talked to neighbors in the area and the problem is widespread.they are in the houses as well as on the grounds.Is this a city or homeowner assoc.issue? Can they be successfully eradicated? There is no new construction in the area, and the problem is wide spread and not isolated to one or two houses. If you cant make recommendations is there any one you can refer me to? Thanks From BethWertz@msn.com Wed Feb 13 07:55:26 2002 From: BethWertz@msn.com (BethWertz@msn.com) Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 00:55:26 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202130755.g1D7tQi13337@Ag.arizona.edu> Why are my plants suddenly wilting and dieing even when water is avaliabe. If it's a fungus in my flower bed what do I do? Thanks From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Feb 13 14:12:35 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 14:12:35 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Flowers, wilting and dying Message-ID: THer problem could be a fungus, another disease or a problem like too much water. Can you take samples of sick (not dead) plants with some soil to your nearest Cooperative Extension Office? (check in the phone book under county listing to find yours). Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: BethWertz@msn.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 00:55:26 -0700 (MST) > >Why are my plants suddenly wilting and dieing even when water is avaliabe. >If it's a fungus in my flower bed what do I do? Thanks > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From Steve.Sheard@motorola.com Wed Feb 13 16:25:48 2002 From: Steve.Sheard@motorola.com (Sheard Stephen-r21680) Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 09:25:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Flowers, wilting and dying Message-ID: You did not say what the flowers were. If they are Petunia - they suffer from "Dampening Off" a fungus in the soil from planting the same plants in the same beds - I think that is right. I have found that treating the soil at planting time with CAPSTAN does the trick. Regards Steve -----Original Message----- From: Linda Drew [mailto:drew_linda@hotmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2002 7:13 AM To: BethWertz@msn.com; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Flowers, wilting and dying THer problem could be a fungus, another disease or a problem like too much water. Can you take samples of sick (not dead) plants with some soil to your nearest Cooperative Extension Office? (check in the phone book under county listing to find yours). Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: BethWertz@msn.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 00:55:26 -0700 (MST) > >Why are my plants suddenly wilting and dieing even when water is avaliabe. >If it's a fungus in my flower bed what do I do? Thanks > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Join the world's largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Feb 13 21:52:25 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 16:52:25 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Flowers wilting and Dying Message-ID: <18d.34c574b.299c3a19@aol.com> --part1_18d.34c574b.299c3a19_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Since you didn't telll us what flowers you have planted I can only give you a general answer. Chances are that you may be over watering. If you have planted the same variety of flower for sucessive years in the same bed then a fungus is a good possibility and especially if you are over watering. There are several fungi that fall into the classification of water molds which cause the plant to rot at the soil line. There are chemicals that can be used but they are very expensive, usually it is much cheaper to replant with another variety that is not affected, and to correct the watering practice. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_18d.34c574b.299c3a19_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Since you didn't telll us what flowers you have planted I can only give you a general answer. Chances are that you may be over watering. If you have planted the same variety of flower for sucessive years in the same bed then a fungus is a good possibility and especially if you are over watering. There are several fungi that fall into the classification of water molds which cause the plant to rot at the soil line. There are chemicals that can be used but they are very expensive, usually it is much cheaper to replant with another variety that is not affected, and to correct the watering practice.

    Good luck.

    Rod McKusick
    Master Gardener     --part1_18d.34c574b.299c3a19_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Feb 13 22:39:35 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 17:39:35 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Seville Orange or not? You be the judge... Message-ID: <143.9799ed6.299c4527@aol.com> --part1_143.9799ed6.299c4527_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jackee, The orange tree that you have may be a Valencia since it does not ripen until march and would be quite sour as yet.. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_143.9799ed6.299c4527_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jackee,

    The orange tree that you have may be a Valencia since it does not ripen until march and would be quite sour as yet..

    Good luck.

    Rod McKusick
    Master Gardener     --part1_143.9799ed6.299c4527_boundary-- From bnewdigate@cox.net Thu Feb 14 02:16:53 2002 From: bnewdigate@cox.net (bnewdigate@cox.net) Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 19:16:53 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202140216.g1E2Gri27345@Ag.arizona.edu> would a fertilizer 10-10-10 be good for queen palms in the phoenix area From ram6260@yahoo.com Thu Feb 14 03:58:30 2002 From: ram6260@yahoo.com (BOB RAMSEY) Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 19:58:30 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] orchid tree Message-ID: <20020214035830.73344.qmail@web13804.mail.yahoo.com> I planted an orchid tree 2 years ago. It has done OK but little growth and poor flower production. It is now about 9 feet tall. Perhaps its lackluster growth is due to lack of sun. It primarilly gets sun in the afternoon for about 4 to 6 hrs. Should I transplant it to a sunnier site? thanks __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE Valentine eCards with Yahoo! Greetings! http://greetings.yahoo.com From ram6260@yahoo.com Thu Feb 14 04:01:12 2002 From: ram6260@yahoo.com (BOB RAMSEY) Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 20:01:12 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] plumeria Message-ID: <20020214040112.34597.qmail@web13802.mail.yahoo.com> I have been given a plumeria which is potted. How much sun should this get during the growing season? Thanks __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE Valentine eCards with Yahoo! Greetings! http://greetings.yahoo.com From H616@msn.com Thu Feb 14 05:02:45 2002 From: H616@msn.com (H616@msn.com) Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 22:02:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202140502.g1E52ji20099@Ag.arizona.edu> I would love to grow lily-of-the-valley, either in containers or in outdoor beds. Can you advise, or is this even possible in Tempe? Will appreciate any help. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Feb 14 13:46:31 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 13:46:31 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palms, fertilizing Message-ID: Palms need micro-nutrients as well as the macro-nutrients, nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium. Buy a product labeled especially for palms; it will be something like "9-4-9 plus minors" Palm Fertilizer Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: bnewdigate@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 19:16:53 -0700 (MST) > >would a fertilizer 10-10-10 be good for queen palms in the phoenix area > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_ _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From CWall10436@aol.com Thu Feb 14 14:49:17 2002 From: CWall10436@aol.com (CWall10436@aol.com) Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 07:49:17 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202141449.g1EEnHi15753@Ag.arizona.edu> Our Condo Assn planted two navel orange trees two years ago. The oranges this year are quite large, but when cut open, the meat of the fruit is stringy and hardly any juice. Could you advise what is the problem? Thank you. From gardenguru" Message-ID: <005501c1b56a$b142f240$12382ace@ibm22761658747> The county ext service has a good document re: Scorpions. MC71 can be ordered from the ext service for $1 There address is In Phoenix Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 You may also drop by to pick up this doc. Hope this helps GG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2002 7:32 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I live in the Dobson Ranch area in Mesa. > I lived there since 1985. > In the last 3 Years the Scorpion population has gotten out of hand.Prior to 1999 we had no scorpion problems.It is getting worse every summer. Pest control only goes so far. > I have talked to neighbors in the area and the problem is widespread.they are in the houses as well as on the grounds.Is this a city or homeowner assoc.issue? > Can they be successfully eradicated? There is no new construction in the area, and the problem is wide spread and not isolated to one or two houses. > If you cant make recommendations is there any one you can refer me to? > Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Feb 14 15:35:03 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 15:35:03 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: >From: CWall10436@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 07:49:17 -0700 (MST) > >Our Condo Assn planted two navel orange trees two years ago. The oranges >this year are quite large, but when cut open, the meat of the fruit is >stringy and hardly any juice. Could you advise what is the problem? Thank >you. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener The trees are very young to be producing. Just give them a few years. Dry fruit can also be caused by cold temperatures. Linda Drew Master Gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From wewizard@concentric.net Thu Feb 14 16:52:39 2002 From: wewizard@concentric.net (wewizard@concentric.net) Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 09:52:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202141652.g1EGqdi12852@Ag.arizona.edu> What may be causing the interior leaves of my green cloud sage plants to yellow and drop off? The plants are about 18" tall and were planted 7 months ago. Thank you, Joel Jaggie Sun City From CWall10436@aol.com Thu Feb 14 20:44:27 2002 From: CWall10436@aol.com (CWall10436@aol.com) Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 13:44:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202142044.g1EKiRi05665@Ag.arizona.edu> Thank you for your prompt response to my recent question regarding oranges. However, I have another question regarding the watering basin. What distance should there be between the inner dam and the outer dam. And how close to the tree trunk should the inner dam be located. Also, what depth should be used on that area between the inner and outer dam. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Feb 15 00:50:36 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 19:50:36 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Green Cloud Sage with yellow leaves Message-ID: <12c.c81e840.299db55c@aol.com> --part1_12c.c81e840.299db55c_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Joel, Too much water is probably causing the leaves on your green cloud to yellow. Check out this site for info on proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_12c.c81e840.299db55c_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Joel,

    Too much water is probably causing the leaves on your green cloud to yellow.

    Check out this site for info on proper irrigation:
    http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

    Rod McKusick
    Master Gardener


    --part1_12c.c81e840.299db55c_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Feb 15 00:51:17 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 19:51:17 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Orchid tree Message-ID: <138.96f6dc4.299db585@aol.com> --part1_138.96f6dc4.299db585_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The Orchid tree is quite frost sensative, and if it gets frosted it will not bloom. Also it does not like our alkaline soils which are abundant in the southwest. It should be ok with partial shade provided it gets sun during the winter. You might consider moving it if you have a spot that is better protected from the cold. Applying soil sulfur twice a year along with a 3 or 4 inch organic mulch over the root zone should help to lower the soil pH. When you water be sure to deep water. Apply fertilizer at least once per year. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_138.96f6dc4.299db585_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The Orchid tree is quite frost sensative, and if it gets frosted it will not bloom. Also it does not like our alkaline soils which are abundant in the southwest. It should be ok with partial shade provided it gets sun during the winter. You might consider moving it if you have a spot that is better protected from the cold.
    Applying soil sulfur twice a year along with a 3 or 4 inch organic mulch over the root zone should help to lower the soil pH. When you water be sure to deep water. Apply fertilizer at least once per year.

    Good luck.

    Rod McKusick
    Master Gardener     --part1_138.96f6dc4.299db585_boundary-- From gardenguru" Message-ID: <004201c1b637$2192a640$df3b2ace@ibm22761658747> Citrus should be watered 1 foot inside to 1 foot outside the drip line of the canopy. This will define your inner and outer dam. The amount of water needed is provided in a document from the Ext Service MC17 Irrigation Needs of Citrus. The depth of the dam should be deep enough to accomodate the required water without flowing over. Another important doc you should have is MC91 Fertilizing Citrus Trees.Both are available from the service for $1 at their Phx office Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Hope this helps GG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2002 1:44 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Thank you for your prompt response to my recent question regarding oranges. However, I have another question regarding the watering basin. What distance should there be between the inner dam and the outer dam. > And how close to the tree trunk should the inner dam be located. Also, what depth should be used on that area between the inner and outer dam. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From nancy@trumpetpower.com Fri Feb 15 20:52:10 2002 From: nancy@trumpetpower.com (nancy@trumpetpower.com) Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 13:52:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202152052.g1FKqAi07249@Ag.arizona.edu> What variety of green bean does well in Tempe? Is there a good web source for vegetable seeds which do well in Tempe? From mwittr@msn.com Sat Feb 16 01:53:05 2002 From: mwittr@msn.com (mwittr@msn.com) Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 18:53:05 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202160153.g1G1r5i28637@Ag.arizona.edu> I just removed the bermuda grass from the lawn and will be putting down rock. What is the best method for grass control in the rock? From djhillis@qwest.net Sat Feb 16 15:14:26 2002 From: djhillis@qwest.net (djhillis@qwest.net) Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 08:14:26 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202161514.g1GFEQi05253@Ag.arizona.edu> I have 2 questions, if I could. Do I fertilize the giant bird of paradise with palm fertilzer or something else; and my Cape Honeysuckle droop down and touch the ground and also grow straight up in stalks. Should I prune the parts which touch the ground, or leave them alone? Thank you. Dennis From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Feb 16 20:48:24 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 15:48:24 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bird of Paradise Message-ID: <70.17f0294e.29a01f98@aol.com> --part1_70.17f0294e.29a01f98_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If you are asking about the African Bird of Paradise, Strelitzia reginae, it is a heavy feeder and requires fertilizer frequently. I would suggest an all purpose balanced fertilizer. If you are asking about the Red Bird of Paradise, Caesalpinia pulcherrima, it requires very little fertilizer. I have several that are not fertilized at all and they are magnificent. It is normal for the Cape Honeysuckle to droop. If you would like the plant to be more compact then it should be pruned or pinched back occasionally. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_70.17f0294e.29a01f98_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If you are asking about the African Bird of Paradise, Strelitzia reginae, it is a heavy feeder and requires fertilizer frequently. I would suggest an all purpose balanced fertilizer. If you are asking about the Red Bird of Paradise, Caesalpinia pulcherrima, it requires very little fertilizer. I have several that are not fertilized at all and they are magnificent.

    It is normal for the Cape Honeysuckle to droop. If you would like the plant to be more compact then it should be pruned or pinched back occasionally.

    Good luck

    Rod McKusick
    Master Gardener     --part1_70.17f0294e.29a01f98_boundary-- From alma@psnw.com Sun Feb 17 01:34:06 2002 From: alma@psnw.com (alma@psnw.com) Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 18:34:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202170134.g1H1Y6i27779@Ag.arizona.edu> The phloem cells of a woody stem get their required oxygen through? From thejacobys@cox.net Sun Feb 17 05:01:18 2002 From: thejacobys@cox.net (thejacobys@cox.net) Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 22:01:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202170501.g1H51Ii17031@Ag.arizona.edu> Help. We have a palo verde that appears to be dying. It has several major branches(about 2 in. each in diameter) and many of these have turned a brown color for several months now (before the cold, so I don't think it is a frost issue). A few of the branches appear O.K. Any Ideas? From murdockhomes@hotmail.com Sun Feb 17 05:21:18 2002 From: murdockhomes@hotmail.com (murdockhomes@hotmail.com) Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 22:21:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202170521.g1H5LHi18676@Ag.arizona.edu> My front landscaping appears to be dying. I have read that I am not supposed to water them often during the winter. I have desert landscape. However, I have lost so many of my shrubs when I do not water them. I also think that my irrigation system is not working properly. All my shrubs are dried and look horrible. Should I consider calling an expert? From odomron@msn.com Sun Feb 17 12:18:27 2002 From: odomron@msn.com (odomron@msn.com) Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 05:18:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202171218.g1HCIRi25986@Ag.arizona.edu> were can I purchase blue point zinna seed. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Feb 17 14:11:05 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 14:11:05 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Blue Point Zinnia Message-ID: A quick web search found these: http://www.nb.net/~franklin/AnnualsHZ.html http://www.arkseed.com "The American Association of Specialty Cut Flower Growers was equally impressed with two new giant zinnia series, descended from Z. elegans: Blue Point (Benary's Giant) and Oklahoma. These fully-double flowers exhibit bright, uniform colors, sturdy stems with mildew-resistant foliage, and a long vase life. Blue Point zinnias are truly giants (to 4"), forming 5" blossoms on sturdy stems.; Oklahoma (3") is very mildew- resistant, with 2" blossoms." "In spite of their enthusiastic growth habit, the Peruvian zinnias did not attract butterflies. Blue Point Formula Mix and 'Royal Purple' [a Blue Point zinnia from Park Seed] have been the most popular zinnias in Leece's garden. In particular, the big purple flowers are a magnet for fritillaries, American Painted Ladies and Eastern Tiger Swallowtails. Moderately attractive zinnias include giant cactus-flowered, 'Sunbow Mix' and Z. angustifolia 'Crystal White'. Leece has found that 'Envy', scabious-flowered and (to her surprise) Z. haageana 'Persian Carpet' have not attracted visiting butterflies." Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: odomron@msn.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 05:18:27 -0700 (MST) > >were can I purchase blue point zinna seed. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Feb 17 14:20:39 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 14:20:39 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] shrubs dying Message-ID: Hello Newly planted shrubs, even desert-adapted ones, need regular water the first full year they are in the ground to get them established. You mention that the landscape is on an irrigation system. I suggest you thoroughly check out the igrrigation system first. Turn it on manually and check that emitters are correctly placed and that water drips from each emitter. Check the schedule that is now set to see when the system turns on and how long it runs. Run the system through its cycle and then use a probe to check around your plants and see how deeply the water has penetrated (should be 18-24 inches). The problem could be too little water, too much water, or some other problem (has anyone used weed killer nearby?) It would also help to know what kind of shrubs you have. Your local Cooperative Extension can help. Find them in the phone book under county listings and give them a call. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: murdockhomes@hotmail.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 22:21:18 -0700 (MST) > >My front landscaping appears to be dying. I have read that I am not >supposed to water them often during the winter. I have desert landscape. >However, I have lost so many of my shrubs when I do not water them. I also >think that my irrigation system is not working properly. All my shrubs are >dried and look horrible. Should I consider calling an expert? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Feb 17 14:28:34 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 14:28:34 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palo verde, brown bark Message-ID: Others on this list are better qualified to answer this question and will respond as well. My first question would be whether anyone pruned this tree last summer? Pruning can expose branches to direct sun and kill the living tissue from 'sun scorch'. If you can, please take a sample to your nearest Cooperative Extension office for better information. (Check in the phone book under county listings for locations). Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: thejacobys@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 22:01:18 -0700 (MST) > >Help. We have a palo verde that appears to be dying. It has several major >branches(about 2 in. each in diameter) and many of these have turned a >brown color for several months now (before the cold, so I don't think it is >a frost issue). A few of the branches appear O.K. > >Any Ideas? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Feb 17 14:41:27 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 14:41:27 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Stem, phloem Message-ID: Check some basic botany references. Here is the section from the Master Gardener Manual: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/botany/plantparts.html#stems >From: alma@psnw.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 18:34:06 -0700 (MST) > >The phloem cells of a woody stem get their required oxygen through? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From umiller@azdps.com Sun Feb 17 15:09:51 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 08:09:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Monkeyflower Seeds Available Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C1B78A.79401FE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit I bought a packet of Mission Red Monkeyflower seeds a few months ago and now realize that I probably won’t plant them because there’s not enough room in the yard without making it look like a jungle. This is a perennial shrub, 2-4 feet high, with red tubular flowers – drought tolerant. This packet of seeds will cover 100 square feet. Can someone use them? If so, send me your name and address and I’ll mail them to you. Ursula Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C1B78A.79401FE0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

    I bought a packet of = Mission Red Monkeyflower seeds a few months ago and now realize that I probably = won=92t plant them because there=92s not enough room in the yard without making it = look like a jungle.=A0 This is a perennial = shrub, 2-4 feet high, with red tubular flowers =96 drought tolerant.=A0 This packet of seeds will cover = 100 square feet.

     

    Can someone use them?=A0 If so, send me your name and = address and I=92ll mail them to you.

     

    Ursula Miller

     <= /p>

    ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C1B78A.79401FE0-- From gardendancer@ILoveFrogs.com Sun Feb 17 17:28:58 2002 From: gardendancer@ILoveFrogs.com (gardendancer@ILoveFrogs.com) Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 10:28:58 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202171728.g1HHSwi15873@Ag.arizona.edu> Hi, Are there any vegetable crops that could be planted on a fenced-in patio with a northern exposure? Unfortunately, the fencing also limits light coming from the north, east and west. I've read that radishes and lettuce might work, and it might help if I put up aluminum foil to reflect some light onto the plants. Suggestions? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Feb 17 19:06:19 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 14:06:19 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Weed control in a Desert Landscape Message-ID: <169.8f75b50.29a1592b@aol.com> --part1_169.8f75b50.29a1592b_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The first thing to do when changing from bermuda turf to desert landscaping is to kill the actively growing bermuda with a herbicide such as Roundup. This usually requires two applications. Once the bermuda is killed an application of a preemergent weed killer such as Surflan will be helpful in controlling weeds that sprout after the granite or rock is placed. More than one application will probably be required. Be sure to follow directions for the product used. The use of plastic under the rock is not recommended. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_169.8f75b50.29a1592b_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The first thing to do when changing from bermuda turf to desert landscaping is to kill the actively growing bermuda with a herbicide such as Roundup. This usually requires two applications. Once the bermuda is killed an application of a preemergent weed killer such as Surflan will be helpful in controlling  weeds that sprout after the granite or rock is placed. More than one application will probably be required. Be sure to follow directions for the product used. The use of plastic under the rock is not recommended.

    Good luck.

    Rod McKusick
    Master Gardener     --part1_169.8f75b50.29a1592b_boundary-- From funnyfarmaz@msn.com Mon Feb 18 01:47:01 2002 From: funnyfarmaz@msn.com (funnyfarmaz@msn.com) Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 18:47:01 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202180147.g1I1l1i00386@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a Ruby Red grapefruit tree in my yard and something is eating the grapefruit while it is still on the tree. There are large holes on the sides of the fruit and they have been hollowed out, sometimes almost completely with another hole on the other side. Right next to the grapefruit tree is a lemon tree which they don't seem to touch. Also, we have a Morro Blood orange tree that hasn't been touched either. I saw your article about woodpeckers. Could they be the ones going after my grapefruit? The holes are on the outside of the tree, so it must be birds that are doing this. We've had this tree for about 12 years and never had this problem before. What do you think is happening? What can I do about it? My grapefruit is almost gone now except for the empty shells. But I would like to prevent this in the future. Thanks for your help. From gizmoaz@cox.net Mon Feb 18 02:11:54 2002 From: gizmoaz@cox.net (GizmoAZ) Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 19:11:54 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200202180147.g1I1l1i00386@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C7062EA.80F80D66@cox.net> Do you by any chance live in Scottsdale, the arcadia district, or close to it? They have had lots of info on the news about a desert rat outbreak, and these little rascals do just as you describe here. You may want to start catching and killing those rascals if this is the case, as they are causing great problems in that area. -- Chat with you later... ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.gizmoaz.com Over 240 Roses and 150 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! Check out the Garden Cams on Saturday and Sunday! funnyfarmaz@msn.com wrote: > I have a Ruby Red grapefruit tree in my yard and something is eating the grapefruit while it is still on the tree. There are large holes on the sides of the fruit and they have been hollowed out, sometimes almost completely with another hole on the other side. Right next to the grapefruit tree is a lemon tree which they don't seem to touch. Also, we have a Morro Blood orange tree that hasn't been touched either. I saw your article about woodpeckers. Could they be the ones going after my grapefruit? The holes are on the outside of the tree, so it must be birds that are doing this. We've had this tree for about 12 years and never had this problem before. What do you think is happening? What can I do about it? My grapefruit is almost gone now except for the empty shells. But I would like to prevent this in the future. Thanks for your help. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From BethWertz@msn.com Mon Feb 18 03:25:36 2002 From: BethWertz@msn.com (Beth Wertz) Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 21:25:36 -0600 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Attention: Linda Drew Message-ID: ------=_NextPart_001_0001_01C1B7F9.A3E3F590 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Thanks so much. Should I wait until next year to plant petunias in that = bed or not plant them in that same spot again? In both flower beds none= of my plants seems to be growing (almost stunted) and they are for filte= red light. Last year the filtered lite plants flourished there. This ye= ar I planted in Oct. and last year I planted in Jan. and both times cover= ed during frost. This year when I uncovered about 8 am it looked like wh= ite flies developed. Also I have hybred verbennas in pots Temari Suntory Collection Pati= o Rose The leaves are turning brown ,crispy and then the plant dies. T= he flowers are not as vivid. The ones in the beds are doing better (ver= bennas). What is happening? This is the 1st part of my P.S. about fungicide that you answered, but I = don't think you saw this part (above )about verbennas that I sent. I'm s= ending it again. Thanks BethGet more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer do= wnload : http://explorer.msn.com ------=_NextPart_001_0001_01C1B7F9.A3E3F590 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
    Thanks so much= .  Should I wait until next year to plant petunias in that bed or no= t plant them in that same spot again?   In both flower beds non= e of my plants seems to be growing (almost stunted) and they are for filt= ered light.  Last year the filtered lite plants flourished there.&nb= sp; This year I planted in Oct. and last year I planted in Jan.=  and both times covered during frost.  This year when= I uncovered about 8 am it looked like white flies developed.
     = Also I have hybred verbennas in pots   Temari   Sunto= ry Collection  Patio Rose   The leaves are turning brown ,= crispy and then the plant dies.  The flowers are not as vivid. =   The ones in the beds are doing better (verbennas). What is ha= ppening?

    This is the 1st part of my P.S. about fungicide that= you answered, but I don't think you saw this part (above )about verbenna= s that I sent.  I'm sending it again.  Thanks Beth

    Get more from the Web. FREE MSN Ex= plorer download : http://explorer.msn= .com

    ------=_NextPart_001_0001_01C1B7F9.A3E3F590-- From Jonathan Kandell" The soil in my community garden plot and around my house a few blocks away in downtown Tucson is hydrophobic... that is it repels water. Even when dug in with manure the water doesn't really penetrate but beads up at the top. Is this a common problem in Tucson or is it a condition of my neighborhood? From edieweber1@hotmail.com Mon Feb 18 07:22:26 2002 From: edieweber1@hotmail.com (edieweber1@hotmail.com) Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 00:22:26 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202180722.g1I7MQi05330@Ag.arizona.edu> I was given a mum plant in Jan. It was beautiful, and the flowers lasted until I over-watered it, I gather, before we left for a two-day trip. When I got back, the flowers started turning brown. I've cut off all the bad ones and bad leaves, but new leaf growth has appeared. I think one can grow mums in Ariz., and I was wondering if it can stay in its pot, if it should be re-potted, or put in the ground. We have a bunch of rabbits around, and I don't know if they eat mums, or not. As they eat most things, I hate to chance it. Thanks. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Feb 18 14:17:46 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 14:17:46 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus, holes in grapefruit Message-ID: The problem could also be woodpeckers with other birds and insects coming in later to finish the fruit. If you live in the Tucson area, I would suspect woodpeckers -- it has been so dry this winter we are seeing a lot more wildlife activity. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: GizmoAZ >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >CC: funnyfarmaz@msn.com >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 19:11:54 -0700 > >Do you by any chance live in Scottsdale, the arcadia district, or close to >it? They have had lots of info on the news about a desert rat outbreak, >and these little rascals do just as you describe here. You may want to >start catching and killing those rascals if this is the case, as they are >causing great problems in that area. > >-- >Chat with you later... >----- >Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 > >http://www.gizmoaz.com >Over 240 Roses and 150 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! >Check out the Garden Cams on Saturday and Sunday! > >funnyfarmaz@msn.com wrote: > > > I have a Ruby Red grapefruit tree in my yard and something is eating the >grapefruit while it is still on the tree. There are large holes on the >sides of the fruit and they have been hollowed out, sometimes almost >completely with another hole on the other side. Right next to the >grapefruit tree is a lemon tree which they don't seem to touch. Also, we >have a Morro Blood orange tree that hasn't been touched either. I saw your >article about woodpeckers. Could they be the ones going after my >grapefruit? The holes are on the outside of the tree, so it must be birds >that are doing this. We've had this tree for about 12 years and never had >this problem before. What do you think is happening? What can I do about >it? My grapefruit is almost gone now except for the empty shells. But I >would like to prevent this in the future. Thanks for your help. > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From d-cmcarthur@mindspirng.com Mon Feb 18 17:17:10 2002 From: d-cmcarthur@mindspirng.com (d-cmcarthur@mindspirng.com) Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 10:17:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202181717.g1IHHAx15266@Ag.arizona.edu> I have received conflicting information regarding mulching my grass clippings. Some nurserymen tell me it is a good practice, others say grass won't mulch in this climat or soil condition. I'm confused. Should I mulch or bag my grass. Thanks Dan McArthur From kensecrist@cs.com Mon Feb 18 17:25:22 2002 From: kensecrist@cs.com (kensecrist@cs.com) Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 10:25:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202181725.g1IHPMx16707@Ag.arizona.edu> What type and how often should I fertilize my "Queen Palm?" How often should it be watered? From sjbass@qwest.net Mon Feb 18 18:05:04 2002 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 11:05:04 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palm Care References: <200202181725.g1IHPMx16707@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C714250.C24E857D@qwest.net> http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf The above link will take you to the University of Arizona's publication on palm care. You will find information on various landscape palms, including Queen Palm. Sue Bass kensecrist@cs.com wrote: > What type and how often should I fertilize my "Queen Palm?" How often should it be watered? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Feb 18 18:42:33 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 13:42:33 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palms, fertilizing Message-ID: --part1_cd.135cf415.29a2a519_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Queen palms should be fertilized three to four times a year starting now with a palm fertilizer having an analysis of approximately 9/3/9 or 15/5/15 plus minors. If you live in the low desert summertime deep watering should be once per week to 10 days, in the winter extend the interval to three to four weeks. Check out this website for info on proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_cd.135cf415.29a2a519_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Queen palms should be fertilized three to four times a year starting now with a palm fertilizer having an analysis of approximately 9/3/9 or 15/5/15 plus minors.
    If you live in the low desert summertime deep watering should be once per week to 10 days, in the winter extend the interval to three to four weeks.
    Check out this website for info on proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

    Good luck.

    Rod McKusick
    Master Gardener     --part1_cd.135cf415.29a2a519_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Feb 18 18:43:41 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 13:43:41 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf Grass Clippings Message-ID: <170.8ffb2f8.29a2a55d@aol.com> --part1_170.8ffb2f8.29a2a55d_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Using a mulching mower and leaving the clippings on the ground is definitely the better way to go. The clippings will provide a mulch for the grass eventually breaking down into food for the turf. You not only save on the labor of bagging the clippings but you help the ecology by not adding to the refuse going to the land fill. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_170.8ffb2f8.29a2a55d_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Using a mulching mower and leaving the clippings on the ground is definitely the better way to go. The clippings will provide a mulch for the grass eventually breaking down into food for the turf. You not only save on the labor of bagging the clippings but you help the ecology by not adding to the refuse going to the land fill.

    Good luck.

    Rod McKusick
    Master Gardener     --part1_170.8ffb2f8.29a2a55d_boundary-- From aliceh2000@hotmail.com Mon Feb 18 19:52:57 2002 From: aliceh2000@hotmail.com (aliceh2000@hotmail.com) Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 12:52:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202181952.g1IJqvx22243@Ag.arizona.edu> I just bought a bare root "ultra dwarf" patio asian pear tree. It is supposed to get no bigger than 5 - 7 feet tall. Can I plant this is a large container pot or must it be put in the ground? Thank you. From mdjafisher@yahoo.com Mon Feb 18 21:12:00 2002 From: mdjafisher@yahoo.com (mdjafisher@yahoo.com) Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 14:12:00 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202182112.g1ILC0x09380@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like to get a plant that will stay green summer and winter - would be planted next to a concrete wall - in a planter approximately 15 inches wide. We want something that stays low to the ground (no taller than 2 - 3feet) does not require pruning (and does not look woody in the winter) and will take the cold weather we have in Tucson (usually no lower than 15. It would be nice if it would flower, but that is not a must. We have purchased some Boxwood Beauty Natal Plum, but have concerns about the cold tempature. Thank you so much for your help with this. From ksheehan@aerotechlabs.com Mon Feb 18 21:50:50 2002 From: ksheehan@aerotechlabs.com (ksheehan@aerotechlabs.com) Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 14:50:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202182150.g1ILonx16955@Ag.arizona.edu> What kind of trees grow well in the New River area that do not have a tap root system? From pgehlker@fastq.com Mon Feb 18 22:44:46 2002 From: pgehlker@fastq.com (pgehlker@fastq.com) Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 15:44:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202182244.g1IMikx28360@Ag.arizona.edu> Is it safe to burn olive tree wood? From stevemartin01@att.net Mon Feb 18 23:01:13 2002 From: stevemartin01@att.net (stevemartin01@att.net) Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 16:01:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202182301.g1IN1Dx02286@Ag.arizona.edu> I would welcome advice on growing tomatoes successfully in this climate. I live in far east Scottsdale, almost in Fountain Hills. Thnak you!!! From pensacolaboy@earthlink.net Mon Feb 18 23:01:53 2002 From: pensacolaboy@earthlink.net (pensacolaboy) Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 16:01:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plants for a north facing courtyard Message-ID: <013801c1b8d0$426f8e00$ae450142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0135_01C1B895.95599B00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I live in north Scottsdale at 2100' elevation. My home has a north = facing courtyard which receives no direct sun during the winter and lots = during the summer. So the effect is from cold and shady to hot and = sunny, winter to summer. I would like to have some potted plants in = this area, preferably something that would not be shedding lots of = leaves. Any recommendations? ------=_NextPart_000_0135_01C1B895.95599B00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
    I live in north Scottsdale at 2100'=20 elevation.  My home has a north facing courtyard which receives no = direct=20 sun during the winter and lots during the summer.  So the effect is = from=20 cold and shady to hot and sunny, winter to summer.  I would like to = have=20 some potted plants in this area, preferably something that would not be = shedding=20 lots of leaves.  Any recommendations?
    ------=_NextPart_000_0135_01C1B895.95599B00-- From jennaz31@aol.com Tue Feb 19 00:52:12 2002 From: jennaz31@aol.com (jennaz31@aol.com) Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 17:52:12 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202190052.g1J0qCx21792@Ag.arizona.edu> In January I planted 6 bare root shrub roses. 3 of them now have leaves on them and the other 3 have nothing. Should I be concerned at this point? I live in the Phoenix area. Thanks Jenn From harelson@extremezone.com Tue Feb 19 03:30:37 2002 From: harelson@extremezone.com (harelson@extremezone.com) Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 20:30:37 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202190330.g1J3Ubx13781@Ag.arizona.edu> Who do I contact about grafting an Avacado tree? This tree we want grafted is about 5 yrs old and 15 ft tall. (in Tempe AZ) From canyonman@webtv.net Tue Feb 19 04:32:11 2002 From: canyonman@webtv.net (Gary Hellems) Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 21:32:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Soil mix for cacti Message-ID: <3508-3C71D54B-4877@storefull-126.iap.bryant.webtv.net> Living in the North Central part of Arizona I am looking at planting a few native cacti around my house. Since I have to completely dig out and replace the caliche that I have with a soil composition, could anyone give me some good advise on a soil mixture? Thank you, Gary From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Tue Feb 19 09:33:27 2002 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 02:33:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200202190052.g1J0qCx21792@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C721BE7.51C32213@email.sps.mot.com> Yes, you should be concerned. Did you put mulch up around the canes of the roses when you planted them? If not, I would recommend doing that ont he ones that have no sign of leaves budding out yet. Put mulch up around the canes and water daily. The wet mulch will help rehydrate the canes and hopefully the bud eyes will swell and leaves will come up from that. Good luck! ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.gizmoaz.com Over 240 Roses and 150 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! Check out the Garden Cams on Saturday and Sunday! ----- XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX jennaz31@aol.com wrote: > In January I planted 6 bare root shrub roses. > 3 of them now have leaves on them and the other 3 have nothing. Should I be concerned at this point? I live in the Phoenix area. > > Thanks > Jenn > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From chaps@ganja.com Tue Feb 19 10:14:18 2002 From: chaps@ganja.com (chaps@ganja.com) Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 03:14:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202191014.g1JAEIx18559@Ag.arizona.edu> how does water travel up a tree? From gardenguru" Message-ID: <018601c1b934$40115440$df3b2ace@ibm22761658747> I would suggest Dwarf Myrtle. It takes the heat / sun and is cold tolerant to 20 degrees. It can be kept to 2 to 3 ft. and animals don't like it. It flowers in the spring. Natal Plum can burn in full sun in the summer and it not as frost tolerant as Myrtle. Check it out at your local nursery. GG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, February 18, 2002 2:12 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I would like to get a plant that will stay green summer and winter - would be planted next to a concrete wall - in a planter approximately 15 inches wide. We want something that stays low to the ground (no taller than 2 - 3feet) does not require pruning (and does not look woody in the winter) and will take the cold weather we have in Tucson (usually no lower than 15. It would be nice if it would flower, but that is not a must. We have purchased some Boxwood Beauty Natal Plum, but have concerns about the cold tempature. Thank you so much for your help with this. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From gardenguru" Message-ID: <019101c1b934$f22910a0$df3b2ace@ibm22761658747> MC22 Tomatoes in Desert Gardens is the Doc available from the Extersion Service. It can be ordered from them at Maricopa County Cooperative Extension for $1. 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Hope this helps GG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, February 18, 2002 4:01 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I would welcome advice on growing tomatoes successfully in this climate. I live in far east Scottsdale, almost in Fountain Hills. > > Thnak you!!! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From gardenguru" Message-ID: <01c701c1b937$ce05a1e0$df3b2ace@ibm22761658747> Gary, Here is a excellent web site dedicated to Cactus. check it out, it should provide you with the info you are looking for - http://www.ianr.unl.edu/pubs/horticulture/g187.htm GG ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary Hellems" To: Sent: Monday, February 18, 2002 9:32 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Soil mix for cacti > Living in the North Central part of Arizona I am looking at planting > a few native cacti around my house. Since I have to completely dig out > and replace the caliche that I have with a soil composition, could > anyone give me some good advise on a soil mixture? Thank you, Gary > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From nsmhurley@aol.com Tue Feb 19 12:34:29 2002 From: nsmhurley@aol.com (nsmhurley@aol.com) Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 05:34:29 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202191234.g1JCYTx11190@Ag.arizona.edu> Do trees make sounds within themselves? Do different types of trees make their own unique sounds. Can it be recorded? When a tree is distressed does it cause a variation in the sound it makes ?(if any) From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Feb 19 14:17:29 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 14:17:29 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] basic botany, water transport Message-ID: Check out basic botant textbooks and web sites. The chapter from our Master Gardener Manual is: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/botany/ Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: chaps@ganja.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 03:14:18 -0700 (MST) > >how does water travel up a tree? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From Lisa and Bill St.Ange" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01C1B927.80BFC880 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have a ficus tree in my yard that gets watered once a week with the = grass this winter. The leaves are turning yellow. What am I doing wrong? = ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01C1B927.80BFC880 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
    I have a ficus tree in my yard that = gets watered=20 once a week with the grass this winter. The leaves are turning yellow. = What am I=20 doing wrong? 
    ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01C1B927.80BFC880-- From Dewadlow@qwest.net Tue Feb 19 17:12:54 2002 From: Dewadlow@qwest.net (Dewadlow@qwest.net) Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 10:12:54 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202191712.g1JHCsx24399@Ag.arizona.edu> I've recently been told that my mulberry tree is giving off growth inhibtors to prevent the growth of grass to grow underneath it. What can we do to make it grow without cutting down the tree? From RASMUSSEN39@msn.com Tue Feb 19 17:39:50 2002 From: RASMUSSEN39@msn.com (RASMUSSEN39@msn.com) Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 10:39:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202191739.g1JHdox00940@Ag.arizona.edu> Any suggestions on growing bermuda grass under a mesquite tree? In the summer some of the bermuda lawns that are under or near mesquites tend to die out. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Feb 19 21:31:40 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 16:31:40 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roses, recently planted and not budding Message-ID: <18d.396d5e1.29a41e3c@aol.com> --part1_18d.396d5e1.29a41e3c_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jenn, Yes you do need to be concerned, I t is important that you keep the canes moist, You can do that by covering the canes completely with mulch, peat or potting soil and keep continually moist until the new growth is showing through the mulch. You can cut down on moisture loss by covering the mulch cone with a paper bag or an empty 5 gallon planting pot with holes in the bottom. Hopefully the canes have not dried out too much. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian --part1_18d.396d5e1.29a41e3c_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jenn,

    Yes you do need to be concerned, I t is important that you keep the canes moist, You can do that by covering the canes completely with mulch, peat or potting soil and keep continually moist until the new growth is showing through the mulch. You can cut down on moisture loss by covering the mulch cone with a paper bag or an empty 5 gallon planting pot with holes in the bottom. Hopefully the canes have not dried out too much.

    Rod McKusick
    Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian     --part1_18d.396d5e1.29a41e3c_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Feb 19 22:20:24 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 17:20:24 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bermuda Grass under Trees Message-ID: <2b.22c32830.29a429a8@aol.com> --part1_2b.22c32830.29a429a8_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have never heard of a mulberry tree giving off a growth inhibitor that prevents bermuda from growing. Bermuda grass requires nearly full sun in order to thrive. Your choices are to cut down the tree or remove the bermuda and plant a shade tolerant grass such as tall fescue or st augustine. Be aware that those grasses cannot be overseeded with rye in winter. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_2b.22c32830.29a429a8_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have never heard of a mulberry tree giving off a growth inhibitor that prevents bermuda from growing.

    Bermuda grass requires nearly full sun in order to thrive. Your choices are to cut down the tree or  remove the bermuda and plant a shade tolerant grass such as tall fescue or st augustine. Be aware that those grasses cannot be overseeded with rye in winter.

    Good luck.

    Rod McKusick
    Master Gardener       --part1_2b.22c32830.29a429a8_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Feb 19 22:21:09 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 17:21:09 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ficus tree with yellow leaves Message-ID: <17.237ff173.29a429d5@aol.com> --part1_17.237ff173.29a429d5_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The problem with planting trees in turf is that in the summer watering the turf does not provide ample water for the tree which should have supplemental water, and in the winter when the rye is planted the tree gets too much water causing the leaves to yellow. After the temperatures warm the new leaves should become green again. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_17.237ff173.29a429d5_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The problem with planting trees in turf is that in the summer watering the turf does not provide ample water for the tree which should have supplemental water, and in the winter when the rye is planted the tree gets too much water causing the leaves to yellow.  After the temperatures warm the new leaves should become green again.

    Good luck.

    Rod McKusick
    Master Gardener     --part1_17.237ff173.29a429d5_boundary-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Feb 19 23:11:44 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 23:11:44 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] bermuda grass lawn, mesquite Message-ID: Bermuda grass performs best in sunny locations and will die out in shade. Perhaps the mesquite could be pruned to allow more light under it, but this might compromise the health of the mesquite tree. Why not try a different ground cover under the tree? Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: RASMUSSEN39@msn.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 10:39:50 -0700 (MST) > >Any suggestions on growing bermuda grass under a mesquite tree? In the >summer some of the bermuda lawns that are under or near mesquites tend to >die out. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_ _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Feb 19 23:15:55 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 23:15:55 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] grass lawn, mulberry Message-ID: I think it is more likely that the mulberry is providing shade. It is the shade that inhibits the growth of some grass, especially bermuda grass. You could try some selective pruning of the mulberry tree or select a different ground cover. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Dewadlow@qwest.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 10:12:54 -0700 (MST) > >I've recently been told that my mulberry tree > is giving off growth inhibtors to prevent > the growth of grass to grow underneath it. > What can we do to make it grow without cutting >down the tree? > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Feb 19 23:47:44 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 23:47:44 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] TUCSON: Homeowner's Tree Workshop Message-ID: for those of you who would like to know more about trees in your landscape: The University of Arizona Pima County Cooperative Extension Presents Homeowner Tree Workshop Saturday, March 9, 2002 On the University of Arizona Mall West of Old Main 8:30 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. --- Demonstration Presentations tree planting tree pruning tree selection and care Classes the best trees for Tucson palm selection and maintenance UA Arboretum Tours interesting and unusual trees on the UA campus Informational Tent Participants: Pima County Master Gardeners University of Arizona Arboretum Tucson Botanical Gardens Tohono Chul Park Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum Trees for Tucson Arizona State Lands University of Arizona Bookstore _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From jbegeman@Ag.arizona.edu Wed Feb 20 00:02:07 2002 From: jbegeman@Ag.arizona.edu (John Begeman) Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 17:02:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Homeowner Tree Workshop - March 9th Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20020219170111.00a62ba0@ag.arizona.edu> Homeowner Tree Workshop, Saturday, March 9th The University of Arizona / Pima County Cooperative Extension will be presenting a Spring Homeowner Tree Workshop on the University Campus on Saturday, March 9th from 8:30 a.m. to 12:30 in the afternoon. The Workshop will include hourly demonstrations and classes on the best tree varieties for Tucson, tree planting, pruning, and care. Tours will also be conduced of some incredible trees in the new University of Arizona Arboretum collection. Participants will also receive additional tree information from a number of local agencies participating in the event. The Homeowner Tree Workshop is free and open to the public. Advanced registration is not required. The Workshop will be held in the center of campus, just west of Old Main. Participants may park in the Tyndall Street Garage, just south of University Blvd. For more information call 626-5161 John P. Begeman, M.S. Urban Horticulture Agent Pima County Cooperative Extension Phone: (520) 626-5161 Fax: (520) 626-5849 jbegeman@ag.arizona.edu From wwepowers789@earthlink.net Wed Feb 20 02:35:25 2002 From: wwepowers789@earthlink.net (William Powers) Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 19:35:25 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Message-ID: confirm 845417 From umiller@azdps.com Wed Feb 20 03:59:23 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 20:59:23 -0700 Subject: FW: [Arid_gardener] Monkeyflower Seeds Available - Message for Mark M Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0028_01C1B988.4F006000 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Mark – I’ve been trying to send this message to you but it keeps coming back as undeliverable. So I’m taking this route. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: Ursula Miller [mailto:umiller@azdps.com] Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2002 8:56 PM To: Mark Mittelstaedt Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] Monkeyflower Seeds Available Mark – Linda Drew already took them for the extension service. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: Mark Mittelstaedt [mailto:mexicopete@worldnet.att.net] Sent: Monday, February 18, 2002 6:49 PM To: Ursula Miller Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Monkeyflower Seeds Available Ursula,if you still have them, I'll take 'em. Please send them to: Mark Mittelstaedt 5941 East Fort Crittendon Tucson, AZ 85750 Thanks ! ----- Original Message ----- From: Ursula Miller To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2002 8:09 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Monkeyflower Seeds Available I bought a packet of Mission Red Monkeyflower seeds a few months ago and now realize that I probably won’t plant them because there’s not enough room in the yard without making it look like a jungle. This is a perennial shrub, 2-4 feet high, with red tubular flowers – drought tolerant. This packet of seeds will cover 100 square feet. Can someone use them? If so, send me your name and address and I’ll mail them to you. Ursula Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0028_01C1B988.4F006000 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

    Mark =96 I=92ve been = trying to send this message to you but it keeps coming back as undeliverable.=A0 So I=92m taking this = route.

     

    Ursula Miller

     

    -----Original Message-----
    From: Ursula Miller [mailto:umiller@azdps.com]
    Sent: Tuesday, February = 19, 2002 8:56 PM
    To: Mark Mittelstaedt
    Subject: RE: = [Arid_gardener] Monkeyflower Seeds Available

     

    Mark = =96 Linda Drew already took them for the extension = service.

     

    Ursula Miller

    <= span class=3DEmailStyle19> 

    -----Original Message-----
    From: Mark Mittelstaedt [mailto:mexicopete@worldnet.att.net]
    Sent: Monday, February = 18, 2002 6:49 PM
    To: Ursula Miller
    Subject: Re: = [Arid_gardener] Monkeyflower Seeds Available    <= /p>

     

    Ursula,if you still have them,  I'll take 'em. Please = send them to:

     

    Mark Mittelstaedt

    5941 East Fort Crittendon

    Tucson, AZ 85750

     

    Thanks !

    ----- Original = Message -----

     

    To:= arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu

    Sent: = Sunday, February 17, 2002 8:09 AM

    Subject: = [Arid_gardener] Monkeyflower Seeds Available

     

    I bought a packet of Mission Red Monkeyflower seeds a few months = ago and now realize that I probably won=92t plant them because there=92s not = enough room in the yard without making it look like a jungle.=A0 This is a perennial shrub, 2-4 feet high, with red = tubular flowers =96 drought tolerant.=A0 = This packet of seeds will cover 100 square feet.

     

    Can someone use them?=A0 = If so, send me your name and address and I=92ll mail them to you. =

     

    Ursula Miller

     <= /p>

    ------=_NextPart_000_0028_01C1B988.4F006000-- From mlcoking@cs.com Wed Feb 20 14:18:05 2002 From: mlcoking@cs.com (mlcoking@cs.com) Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 07:18:05 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202201418.g1KEI5x29300@Ag.arizona.edu> I need help on the proper care of a Brazilian Pepper Tree. I live in Phoenix AZ The tree is located on the S E corner of our home. Gets sun all day long. It lost most of its leaves this winter. Watering and fertilizing schedule needed. Also "type" of fertilizer. Thank You Marsha From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Feb 20 14:35:35 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 14:35:35 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Monkeyflower Seeds Message-ID: I have just received the Monkeypod seed from Ursula. Thank you! The Pima County Master Gardeners have a big Plant Sale on Saturday morning, March 16 at our Demonstration Gardens, 4210 N. Campbell Avenue, Tucson (520) 626-5161 We will plant the seed today and hope to have some seedlings available at the sale. Linda Drew Master Gardener >I bought a packet of Mission Red Monkeyflower seeds a few months ago. >This >is a perennial shrub,2-4 feet high, with red tubular flowers ? >drought >tolerant. This packet of seeds will cover 100 square feet. > >Ursula Miller > _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Feb 20 15:00:59 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 08:00:59 -0700 Subject: [Fwd: [Arid_gardener] Science Project] Message-ID: <3C73BA2B.DDBCD3F8@qwest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------463AAD01AB5048AD890ADB62 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Here is an old post I sent to a youngster for her science project. The content addresses your question of water transport. Linda Guy, MG --------------463AAD01AB5048AD890ADB62 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 97157 invoked by uid 0); 7 Dec 2000 16:46:21 -0000 Received: from mail3.uswest.net (204.147.80.19) by phnxpop5.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 7 Dec 2000 16:46:21 -0000 Received: (qmail 1987 invoked from network); 7 Dec 2000 16:46:11 -0000 Received: from ag.arizona.edu (128.196.42.70) by mail3.uswest.net with SMTP; 7 Dec 2000 16:46:10 -0000 Received: from Ag.Arizona.Edu (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by Ag.Arizona.Edu (8.9.3+Sun/8.9.3) with ESMTP id JAA07215; Thu, 7 Dec 2000 09:41:01 -0700 (MST) Received: from phnxpop2.phnx.uswest.net (phnxpop2.phnx.uswest.net [206.80.192.2]) by Ag.Arizona.Edu (8.9.3+Sun/8.9.3) with SMTP id JAA07179 for ; Thu, 7 Dec 2000 09:40:58 -0700 (MST) Received: (qmail 68405 invoked by alias); 7 Dec 2000 16:40:58 -0000 Delivered-To: fixup-arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu@fixme Received: (qmail 68353 invoked by uid 0); 7 Dec 2000 16:40:57 -0000 Received: from vdslf71.phnx.uswest.net (HELO qwest.net) (216.161.186.71) by phnxpop2.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 7 Dec 2000 16:40:57 -0000 Errors-To: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Thu, 07 Dec 2000 09:29:01 -0700 Message-ID: <3A2FBACD.14C453F5@qwest.net> From: "Linda Guy" Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: Harleygrl20@aol.com Cc: "Arid gardener server" , mblock@Ag.Arizona.Edu X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 [en] (Win95; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Subject: [Arid_gardener] Science Project X-BeenThere: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu X-Mailman-Version: 2.0beta5 Precedence: bulk List-Id: Gardening and Landscaping in Dry Climates X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 We used to have some very good and basic material in our 4-H area, and I am trying to locate some of this for you. In the meantime, let me try to address some of the basics. There are many types of root systems: fibrous roots of grass, corn, some flowers and shrubs; enlarged stems of an Irish potato, the globular root of a beet, the taproot of a carrot or dill plant. There are even aerial roots on certain plants. These should not be confused with bulbuous plants, like garlic or daffodils, whose bulbs are actually compacted sections of the stem complete with buds and modified leaves. The roots on a bulb dangle from the bulb's base; the part you cut off from the bottom of a green onion, for example. Plant roots absorb water and dissolved nutrients from the soil and conduct this to the stem to be distributed to the plant. The wall of each root cell is a semipermeable membrane, the sap inside the cell is a fairly strong solution of water, sugar & other substances called salts [not just NaCl!], and the scientific principle in play here is osmosis. The stronger solution inside the cell attracts the weaker one in the soil across the membrane. Ask your teacher to explain this better to you. We know a whole lot less about plant roots that plant tops, since they grow underground and when we remove them from the soil they no longer are behaving as in their natural habitat. There are several kinds of water in soil. Some is held so tightly by the soil that plants can't get it. That is, the chemical bond to the soil particle is stronger than the osmosis that the root cells could generate to attract it away to the plant. Once you add a bit more water, then some is held loosely by soil particles and the plant is able to absorb this by osmosis. Lastly, if the soil is really saturated with water, the excess runs through the soil, pulled by gravity. [There is also water evaporation from the top of the soil which acts against gravity and draws water up.] If there is extra water in the soil, the roots will also act in a storage capacity for the plant. Now on to the rest of the plant. Stems carry water and dissolved nutrients, called sap once inside the plant, up and into the above ground structure. Sap is moved by a combination of scientific forces: osmosis, capillary action, transpiration and the pressure in the atmosphere. Lots of water in the soil increases the rate of osmosis because the more water in the soil, the more dilute it is compared to that in the root cell. Sap will not move up the plant through the stem tissue called xylem if there is no water coming in through the roots. The capillary action in a plant stem is like a straw standing in a pan of water. The thinner and taller the tube the higher the water will rise [again assuming there is adequate water in the soil]. As the leaves of the plant transpire or lose water to evaporation, this action is like sucking on the end of the straw. Evaporation is controlled by openings in plant leaves called stomata, in the outside cell layers. The green matter of leaves is chlorophyll. Using the energy of the sun, the cells manufacture carbohydrates or sugars from the water and dissolved nutrients that the roots absorbed, and carbon dioxide in the air. This process is photosynthesis. If you had the ability to look at the cells in a leaf you would see that the parts that are shielded from the sun do not produce the plant's food, since sunlight is necessary for this process. A by-product of the plant's producing its food supply is the oxygen that is vital for us humans. Carbon dioxide comes in and oxygen goes out through the leaves' stomata which we already talked about. The leaf will save some of the food it generates and send the rest back into the plant. Some returns to the roots where it helps the root cells to grow [this happens at the tips of the roots] and get bigger and longer to absorb more water and nutrients to send up to the leaves, in the same cycle. It is not only flowers that will change colors: if you conduct the same experiment with a stalk of celery, for example, you will see stem and leaf change color, too. I don't know exactly why, but I suspect it may have to do with the volume of water in the cell tissue which carries the dye. Celery has a very high water content. There are two very good, basic books that show all these structures. Perhaps you can look for them in the library. I'm not sure what grade you are in, and I hope I won't insult you with this selection of what might appear to be picture books! Look very carefully as one of them has incredible detail on cell biology, including mitochondria, ER, nucleus, cytoplasm, etc. [I am a massage therapist, and I had to learn all about this type of stuff as it relates to our own human bodies!] One is from the Inside Guides series, called Incredible Plants. The other is Picturepedia of Plants. Both are DK Publishing books. Please write us back if you need more help, or at least to give us an address to mail some materials, if we find they are available. Good luck on your project. Linda Guy Master Gardener _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener --------------463AAD01AB5048AD890ADB62-- From rmford1@mindspring.com Wed Feb 20 14:58:23 2002 From: rmford1@mindspring.com (Renea Ford) Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 07:58:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Vine for upper patio planter Message-ID: <00b801c1ba1f$6b293620$c78b85ce@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00B3_01C1B9E4.5E8151E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have desert landscaping at 2500 feet. My upper patio is cantilevered = over my lower patio and spa. (The patios have a N-NW orientation.) A = plant "cavity" in direct sun, with a drain and its own irrigation line, = runs the length of the upper patio, E-W. (Spa is not directly below the = outer edge of the planter.) Presently, I have small, dark green, = yam-shaped ice plants in the plant cavity. They are growing well but = are so low in the planter that I doubt the flowers will cascade (or even = show) once they bloom, which has not happened yet (planted last August). = =20 Are there any vines or groundcover I might put in the planter instead = that would (a) flower year-round, (b) grow up, over and down and dangle = like Christmas icicle lights against the patio wall, (c) not create a = lot of litter in my spa below, and (d) not attract cockroaches in the = planter? If not, what might be close and what would their limitations = be? I know I'm asking for a lot! Thank you. ------=_NextPart_000_00B3_01C1B9E4.5E8151E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
    I have desert landscaping at 2500 feet.  My upper patio = is=20 cantilevered over my lower patio and spa.  (The patios have a N-NW=20 orientation.)  A plant "cavity" in direct sun, with a drain and its = own=20 irrigation line, runs the length of the upper patio, E-W.  (Spa is = not=20 directly below the outer edge of the planter.) Presently, I have = small,=20 dark green, yam-shaped ice plants in the plant cavity.  They are = growing=20 well but are so low in the planter that I doubt the flowers will cascade = (or=20 even show) once they bloom, which has not happened yet (planted last=20 August). 
     
    Are there any vines or groundcover I might put in the = planter=20 instead that would (a) flower year-round, (b) grow up, over and = down=20 and dangle like Christmas icicle lights against the patio wall, (c) = not create a lot of litter in my spa below, and (d) not attract = cockroaches=20 in the planter?  If not, what might be close and what would their=20 limitations be?
     
    I know I'm asking for a lot!  Thank you.
    ------=_NextPart_000_00B3_01C1B9E4.5E8151E0-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Feb 20 15:22:41 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 08:22:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grafting Avocado. References: <200202190330.g1J3Ubx13781@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C73BF41.D1DD0C4C@qwest.net> I'm not exactly sure of your question, but if you are asking about grafting techniques, you can consult the Master Gardener Manual's propagation chapter at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/propagation/index.html If you'd like to contact a garden club that focuses on exotic fruits, try the AZ chapter of the CA Rare Fruit Growers at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/clubs.htm Linda Guy, MG harelson@extremezone.com wrote: > Who do I contact about grafting an Avacado tree? This tree we want grafted is about 5 yrs old and 15 ft tall. (in Tempe AZ) > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Feb 20 15:31:13 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 08:31:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Battle with Caliche References: <16563-3C60BFFA-645@storefull-126.iap.bryant.webtv.net> Message-ID: <3C73C141.2C50A89@qwest.net> Some have success with drilling holes in the caliche to promote drainage, so that roots don't rot. This will depend on the thickness of your caliche pan. There is an excellent discussion of caliche in our Master Gardener Manual, Soils Chapter, at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/soils/index.html You may find that you do not have to go to the time and trouble of completely excavating your yard. As to the soil, here are so many wonderful native plant options that do not require amendments: after all, they don't have that kind of help in the wild, now do they? Some may choose to do so, [it may make us feel more like gardeners!], but truly, it isn't usually necessary. I have a wonderfully lush front yard which my husband and I converted from common bermuda about 6 years ago. We killed the bermuda, rototilled, raked out the stolons and planted. No amenements, just 3/8" minus gravel on the top to complete. Linda Guy, MG Gary Hellems wrote: > Well, this is probably not the first posting on this subject but was > wondering if it is possible to work with caliche when it comes time for > planting, whether it be shrubs, trees, wildflowers or for that matter, > cacti. I was told that to be successful, one must dig out all caliche > in order to plant anything. It was suggested that holes that are dug > for plants must be filled in with a rich soil mixture with mulch. I > currently live in the north central part of Arizona. Any suggestions or > comments? Thank you, Regards, Gary > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Feb 20 15:36:17 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 08:36:17 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Soil mix for cacti References: <3508-3C71D54B-4877@storefull-126.iap.bryant.webtv.net> Message-ID: <3C73C271.C5789797@qwest.net> Drainage is key, but again, pursuant to my earlier post, if you use natives, amendments can sometimes be an unnecessary expense. Again, check out the MG Manual, Cactus Chapter at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/cacti/index.html Also, we have a few publications at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Desert What people may not understand when they use cactus in their landscapes that they often do not begin growing in full sun in the desert. Rather they begin life under what are referred to as 'nursery trees or shrubs' that provide filtered shade and much needed relief from blistering sun. Keep this in mind as you plant your yard. Linda Guy, MG Gary Hellems wrote: > Living in the North Central part of Arizona I am looking at planting > a few native cacti around my house. Since I have to completely dig out > and replace the caliche that I have with a soil composition, could > anyone give me some good advise on a soil mixture? Thank you, Gary > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Feb 20 15:43:35 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 08:43:35 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fruit Trees for Shade References: <200202081738.g18HcVD00461@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C73C427.AE29A290@qwest.net> Most non-citrus fruit trees are deciduous, losing the leaves in the winter months. This is usually a much briefer period of time than that experienced in other parts of the country [3 months or less]. However, there is a lot of shade during the time of the year when we need it most. Our publication on fruit trees is MC 90 and can be ordered at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Fruits If you want them to bear fruit, you need to pay careful attention to the discussion of chill hours. Also review the relevant chapter in our Master Gardener Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ Citrus are evergreen. Our publication on those varieties is online at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Citrus Linda Guy, MG kidolibrarian@yahoo.com wrote: > We live in Tempe. Our problem is that we have taken out a big shade tree recently (an old mulberry)and would like to replace that space with another tree that offers shade. We were wondering if there are any type of fruit trees that also double as a shade tree in the back yard. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From copper@bargainsail.com Wed Feb 20 19:26:32 2002 From: copper@bargainsail.com (Copper Bittner) Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 12:26:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Maricopa Extension Plant Sale Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C1BA09.D4A771E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The Maricopa County Master Gardeners have a big Plant Sale on Saturday morning, March 2nd, from 8AM - 2 PM. at our Demonstration Gardens: 4331 E Broadway Phoenix, AZ (602) 470-8086 We will have plants,seedlings and other wonderful things available at the sale. Copper Bittner Master Gardener Coordinator of the Perennial Divide part of the sale. Call or email me with questions. 480-802-9709 copper@bargainsail.com ------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C1BA09.D4A771E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
      =20
     
    The Maricopa = County=20 Master Gardeners have a big Plant

    Sale on Saturday morning, March 2nd, from 8AM - 2 PM. at our=20 Demonstration

    Gardens:

    4331 E=20 Broadway
    Phoenix,=20 AZ

    (602) 470-8086

    We will have=20 plants,seedlings and other wonderful = things available at=20 the sale.

     

    Copper=20 Bittner

    Master=20 Gardener

    Coordinator of = the=20 Perennial Divide part of the sale.  Call or email me with=20 questions.

     

    480-802-9709

    copper@bargainsail.com<= /SPAN>

    ------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C1BA09.D4A771E0-- From annetter11@msn.com Wed Feb 20 19:37:29 2002 From: annetter11@msn.com (annetter11@msn.com) Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 12:37:29 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202201937.g1KJbTx05826@Ag.arizona.edu> We have 4 citrus trees. One lemon, one grapefruit, one navel orange and one tangelo. The fruit on the lemon, grapefruit and tangelo were great this year. The fruit on the navel orange we beautiful to look at but was dry and pulpy on the inside. We treat all the tress the same. What can we do to prevent this from happening agian? Thank you, Annette From AZamigo@aol.com Thu Feb 21 03:50:24 2002 From: AZamigo@aol.com (AZamigo@aol.com) Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 20:50:24 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202210350.g1L3oOx02425@Ag.arizona.edu> I am going to plant a Lisbon lemon the second week of March in Tucson. I am probably going to put in a 5 gallon plant due to easier installation and a shorter transplant shock period. How much larger should the hole be than the container. My soil is not the best-caliche, but the grapefruit tree planted in July of 1999 is fruited well last year and is slowly gaining frost resistance. It was planted by a landscaper as a 15 gallon, so its shock period was longer. How should the backfill be ammended? Is sour orange still the prefered rootstock for the low desert? Thanks for all your help. From TEER2@aol.com Thu Feb 21 04:32:12 2002 From: TEER2@aol.com (TEER2@aol.com) Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 23:32:12 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] purple snail vines Message-ID: I planted purple snail vines along a chain-link fence across my back yard.They took off at an incredible rate,and looked most fantastic.All of a sudden,winter hit and the frost seems to have killed the whole lot.Do i continue to water occasionally,cut them down(and if so,how high above ground?) or do i need to plant new ones every year? thx tom (at teer2@aol.com) From lazimmer@aztec.asu.edu Thu Feb 21 05:00:14 2002 From: lazimmer@aztec.asu.edu (lazimmer@aztec.asu.edu) Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 22:00:14 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202210500.g1L50Ex10363@Ag.arizona.edu> I went to a nursery and home depot looking for pumice and they didn't have it. Does anyone know where to get it. Thanks. From lazimmer@aztec.asu.edu Thu Feb 21 05:05:55 2002 From: lazimmer@aztec.asu.edu (lazimmer@aztec.asu.edu) Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 22:05:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202210505.g1L55tx11203@Ag.arizona.edu> I want to plant some sweet corn and I need some information. I only have a 15 by 6 foot space. How should I space the plants? And should I plant in furrows, burrows or flat groud? Any other information or suggestions or where to get information would be appreciated. Thanks. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Feb 21 13:52:58 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 13:52:58 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus planting Message-ID: Hi To plant citrus: dig a hole no deeper than the root ball and 4 or 5 times as wide. Remove the plant from the container and place on solid ground. Backfill with the dirt you dug out, removing any rocks. Water well, and be sure the root ball is wet as well as the surrounding soil. For more information call us in Tucson (626-5161) and we will mail out more information. Sour orange is commonly used as a rootstock. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: AZamigo@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 20:50:24 -0700 (MST) > >I am going to plant a Lisbon lemon the second week of March in Tucson. I >am probably going to put in a 5 gallon plant due to easier installation and >a shorter transplant shock period. How much larger should the hole be than >the container. My soil is not the best-caliche, but the grapefruit tree >planted in July of 1999 is fruited well last year and is slowly gaining >frost resistance. It was planted by a landscaper as a 15 gallon, so its >shock period was longer. How should the backfill be ammended? Is sour >orange still the prefered rootstock for the low desert? Thanks for all >your help. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Feb 21 16:21:39 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 09:21:39 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Purple snail vines References: Message-ID: <3C751E93.10B42D95@qwest.net> Mine have survived the prior two winters, but succumbed to this December's cold snap. These are tropical plants that will stay evergreen in frostless areas, but otherwise experience frost damage. Cut it back to the ground and it should take off as the weather warms. Linda Guy, MG TEER2@aol.com wrote: > I planted purple snail vines along a chain-link fence across my back > yard.They took off at an incredible rate,and looked most fantastic.All of a > sudden,winter hit and the frost seems to have killed the whole lot.Do i > continue to water occasionally,cut them down(and if so,how high above > ground?) or do i need to plant new ones every year? thx tom (at > teer2@aol.com) > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Feb 21 16:22:40 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 09:22:40 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Locating Pumice References: <200202210500.g1L50Ex10363@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C751ED0.2194093B@qwest.net> I have previously seen it at Home Depot, but I know you can purchase it at Baker Nursery in the Arcadia neighborhood of East Phoenix, and I believe the shop at the Desert Botanical Gardens sells it as well. Linda Guy, MG lazimmer@aztec.asu.edu wrote: > I went to a nursery and home depot looking for pumice and they didn't have it. Does anyone know where to get it. Thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Feb 21 16:26:11 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 09:26:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Propagating Red Yucca from Seed References: <200201291620.g0TGKBK05503@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C751FA3.4F433F43@qwest.net> I don't know the best guidance, but can offer several suggestions. If you have multiple seeds, plant some in good potting mix. Take a few others and soak a few hours in warm water first before planting. If this is is a hard coated seed, take a few others and first nick them with a file or knife [scarifying]. Linda Guy, MG gwiemelt@msn.com wrote: > What is the best way to grow Red Yucca from seed? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Feb 21 16:28:58 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 09:28:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Atrium Plantings References: <200202052136.g15LaUD09015@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C75204A.CAABBAAE@qwest.net> I'm not sure that there is adequate sunlight for succulents. Organ pipe and many agaves would ultimately be way too big, too.For something that is 90% shaded, I would be tempted to try houseplants, most of which are tropical understory plants. Other possibilities include warm climate ferns [foxtail, eg] and tropical birds of paradise [Strelitzia]. Linda Guy, MG azcovey2@home.com wrote: > I have an atrium that is open on top and 6 x 6 and fully enclosed. It is 90% shaded. I have a large container that I am hoping to either plant a good size organ pipe style cactus which would be alone or a variety of succulents, an agave being the main plant along with small ones at the bottom. Is this enough sun for either of these plantings or do you have other suggestions. It needs something at least 3' high or dramatic. Please advise > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Feb 21 16:32:12 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 09:32:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Flower plantings References: <200202062041.g16KfGD17577@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C75210B.F1523520@qwest.net> We have a very good guide to planting annual flowers in the low desert [AZ 1100] which you can access online at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm As to perennials, this answer is a bit complicated and requires more research/ involvement on your part [vis exposure, size, etc.]. Good references to begin with for natives or adapted plants are Landscape Plants for Dry Regions [Jones], Gardening in the Desert [Mary Irish], Native Plants for SW Landscapes [Mielke]. Linda Guy, MG DorthK@aol.com wrote: > I want to start a huge flower garden in Mesa area. I would like flowers to bloom mostly in May and October. What annuals and Perennials would I choose. Also when should they be planted. > > I am from MN and know all the right flowers there but not here in AZ. Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Feb 21 16:41:30 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 09:41:30 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Harvesting Vegetables References: <200202081858.g18IwRD19139@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C75233A.6AF39B@qwest.net> Harvest cabbages when the head reaches a size that is acceptable for your needs [you don't have to wait until it reaches its maximum potential. Your seed packet should give you an idea of size [there is a wide range among cabbage varieties, and this is often expressed as # pounds per head] and number of days to harvest. As to cauliflower, begin harvesting when the heads are still compact and tender. Quality deteriorates as the buds start drying a bit, the cauliflower becomes loose and open and the color begins to change....essentially this flower 'bud' that we eat starts to bloom. We have a nice two-page publication on harvesting vegetables [MC 3] that you can order at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#top Linda Guy, MG phg@citieswestpub.com wrote: > When does one harvest cauliflower out here? I planted some seedlings in fall, and now I'm starting to see the white of the cauliflower forming, but have no idea when to pick it. Also, when should you harvest cabbage? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu Feb 21 16:49:13 2002 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 09:49:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Cool Season Vegetables References: <003701c1b70b$1c465860$ac350344@cx2019593b> Message-ID: <001c01c1baf8$08a26240$ea52530c@j0r9501> See http://home.att.net/~millero/vegetables.html Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "jerry.p2" Could you please e-mail me the article . Thanks From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu Feb 21 16:51:18 2002 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 09:51:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Sweetcorn References: <200202210505.g1L55tx11203@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <001d01c1baf8$0931d100$ea52530c@j0r9501> An article "Growing Sweetcorn in the Low Desert" was published in the Horticultural Communicator a while ago and it still may be viewed at http://home.att.net/~millero/sweetcorn.html Planting in blocks instead of rows is usually recommended. Most varieties except for the very tall types can be grown on a grid at 1 foot between centers (ala Square Foot Gardening method). You could flood-irrigate and construct an earthen berm to prevent runoff. For more information on sqft spacing, see http://www.cyberusa.com/~silvest/garden/spacing.html. The row and furrow method also works pretty well but is more appropriate for large areas. If you use this method, plant about halfway up the side of the furrows - salt deposits accumulate at the top as water evaporates. I usually plant in blocks on flat ground using the sqft method and irrigate using drip tapes in parallel spaced at about 1 foot apart. Drip irrigation conserves water and prevents runoff. Olin Miller ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2002 10:05 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I want to plant some sweet corn and I need some information. I only have a 15 by 6 foot space. How should I space the plants? And should I plant in furrows, burrows or flat groud? Any other information or suggestions or where to get information would be appreciated. Thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Feb 21 16:50:16 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 09:50:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus in Container References: <200202101507.g1AF70i03457@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C752548.9D4ED071@qwest.net> Citrus will loose leaves throughout the year and this may be normal for your specimen. Yes, these are thorny plants. Information on citrus can be gotten at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Linda Guy, MG brown.1362@aol.com wrote: > i have a orange or lemon tree in a pot in my house it's my moms but for some reason the leaves are falling off is this normal it stands 6' also it has thorns on it they started from a seed six yrs ago i've never > seen a orange or lemon tree are they suppost to have thorns also i water it every week- > 14 days > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Feb 21 16:50:25 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 09:50:25 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Landscape software References: <200202092212.g19MCCi09656@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C752551.FA277555@qwest.net> Here's a previous post on the topic. http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/1999-November/002567.html Linda Guy, MG gordonphillips1@netzero.net wrote: > Does anybody have recommendations for a Windows software package that will do Xeriscaping in the Mesa area? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Feb 21 17:01:50 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 10:01:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning Natives References: <200202101746.g1AHk4i15669@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C7527FD.187B0AC2@qwest.net> Pink fairy duster [calliandra eriophylla] rarely if ever needs pruning. If you need to shape it, do so in late spring after the bloom cycle is over. If you have the red or baja fairy duster [calliandra californica] are also pruned in late srping. These are longer bloomers than their pink relatives, but they are very sensitive to pruning which will inhibit flowering if you do too much. Although this is a larger bush, it too has limited pruning needs. Chuparosa [justicia californica are also pruned in the spring after flowering is completed. It should not be pruned excessively, but as it ages, eliminating some of the older wood will generate more flowering wood production. June is the recommended time for pruning caesalpinia mexicana [Mexican Bird of Paradise]. A good reference work for pruning natives is Johnson's Pruning Planting & Care. None of these plants should be sheared. For a refresher on sound pruning techniques see the Master Gardener Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ Linda Guy, MG j-mharter@msn.com wrote: > Am wondering if it is OK for me to prune my shrubs now. Some of them include: fairy duster, chuprosa, mexican bird of paradise. > > Also, how far can I prune them back? Our home/yard was new 2 years ago, so these plants are still fairly young, yet outgrowing some of the spaces. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Feb 21 17:04:46 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 10:04:46 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Potato Bush Tree References: <000601c1b28a$10534c50$7b750d82@user> Message-ID: <3C7528AE.D85F6C6D@qwest.net> --------------BC178EC0C2C71523C03886FA Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit There are several varieties of solanum and it would help you diagnose your plant's problems to consult the Sunset Western Garden book's descriptions so you can pinpoint the plant's needs that you are not addressing. I would consider overwatering and/or frost damage based on my reading. Linda Guy, MG Patrick and Emily McAvoy wrote: > Why would a potato bush tree lose its leaves in January in > Phoenix? Emily --------------BC178EC0C2C71523C03886FA Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit There are several varieties of solanum and it would help you diagnose your plant's problems to consult the Sunset Western Garden book's descriptions so you can pinpoint the plant's needs that you are not addressing. I would consider overwatering and/or frost damage based on my reading.

    Linda Guy, MG

    Patrick and Emily McAvoy wrote:

    Why would a potato bush tree lose its leaves in January in Phoenix? Emily
    --------------BC178EC0C2C71523C03886FA-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Feb 21 17:08:24 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 10:08:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Peace Lily References: <200202111537.g1BFbFi05027@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C752988.F1751DB@qwest.net> In general, lilies like regular water, but can suffer from overwatering. You don't say if this is a container plant or discuss any of your other plant care habits. Could the leaves be burned from too much sun? May I suggest you locate a Sunset Western Garden Book in your local library and read about lily care in general? I couldn't locate 'peace lily' specifically. Linda Guy, MG agewise@verizon.net wrote: > The leaves on my Peace Lily turn brown on the ends and eventually half of the leaf is dead. This happens on relatively new leaves as well as the old. The remaining green part of the leaf stays green. Would over watering do this? Something else? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Feb 21 17:09:42 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 10:09:42 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plumeria References: <20020214040112.34597.qmail@web13802.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3C7529D5.9696FC2@qwest.net> Sunset Western Garden Book recommends partial shade in the hottest zones. Linda Guy, MG BOB RAMSEY wrote: > I have been given a plumeria which is potted. How much > sun should this get during the growing season? Thanks > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Send FREE Valentine eCards with Yahoo! Greetings! > http://greetings.yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Feb 21 17:12:13 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 10:12:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lily of the Valley References: <200202140502.g1E52ji20099@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C752A6D.FB58CF0@qwest.net> Lily of the Valley [Convallaria majalis] is not recommended for our zone. They already require partial shade and regular water and our area is just too harsh. If you're hooked, however, they can be grown as container plants. See the Sunset Western Garden Book for a discussion on ordering prechilled pips for forcing. Linda Guy, MG H616@msn.com wrote: > I would love to grow lily-of-the-valley, either in containers or in outdoor beds. Can you advise, or is this even possible in Tempe? Will appreciate any help. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From boofie@bigfoot.com Thu Feb 21 17:13:59 2002 From: boofie@bigfoot.com (Jessica Boof Sizemore) Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 09:13:59 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bouganvillia (sp) freeze Message-ID: <20020221171359.30194.qmail@web10007.mail.yahoo.com> I live in Tucson, and a few weeks ago we had a big freeze for about a week. I have these big Bouganvillia (sp) plants, and thought they were big enough to not have to cover them.... needless to say they are quite frozen, all the leaves that were out from under the roof (about 5/6 of the plants) have fallen off, and the plants look really bad. What can I do to get them to come back? The little bit that was under the roof, is now starting to suffer as well. I had heard to just cut all the dead branches off, and the plant will just grow back... but this was from my mother, who likes to act knowledgeable, but really isn't in most cases. Also I have this great vine plant, that made it through the freeze, that I thought was a great vine y green leafy plant, but Monday it started growing these great little purple flowers, that look a little like orchids. I am so excited, when we bought the house I had no idea, I always wanted a lot of purple flowers!!! So my question here is, can I plant a few more of these around the front of the house now, or should I wait for later in the spring? I have no idea when Tucson's planting season is. Thank you for your time, Boof ===== Tucson, Az __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Sports - Coverage of the 2002 Olympic Games http://sports.yahoo.com From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Feb 21 17:15:47 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 10:15:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Vegetables in Northern Exposure References: <200202171728.g1HHSwi15873@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C752B42.5B4D18E@qwest.net> Vegetables require a good 8 hours of sun. You may have plants but they might just be leggy, stretching for sun, with limited production. Check out our vegetable pubs at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ Linda Guy, MG gardendancer@ILoveFrogs.com wrote: > Hi, > > Are there any vegetable crops that could be planted on a fenced-in patio with a northern exposure? Unfortunately, the fencing also limits light coming from the north, east and west. I've read that radishes and lettuce might work, and it might help if I put up aluminum foil to reflect some light onto the plants. Suggestions? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Feb 21 17:20:09 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 10:20:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Dwarf Navel in Container Message-ID: <3C752C49.633E379D@qwest.net> --------------061B0A812A918DA466659E0C Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit You don't speak to your care habits. Since this is a container plant, did you neglect water for some period? Has the plant outgrown its container? What is your fertilization practice? Was there an unprotected episode with frost? Linda Guy, MG > From: MASTennis@aol.com > Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 23:25:03 EST > Subject: Citrus tree > To: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu > X-Mailer: AOL 6.0 for Windows US sub 10556 > > I have a navel orange tree (dwarf) that has been dropping its leaves. > It started in Nov. and then new leaves came back and now they are > dropping in large quantities. My oranges were very small and some > were split and on the ground. What can I do? > > Thank you, Margie Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D. Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist University of Arizona Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center Route 1, Box 40M Somerton, AZ 85350 Phone: 928-726-0458 FAX: 928-726-1363 e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu --------------061B0A812A918DA466659E0C Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit You don't speak to your care habits. Since this is a container plant, did you neglect water for some period? Has the plant outgrown its container? What is your fertilization practice? Was there an unprotected episode with frost?

    Linda Guy, MG
     

    From: MASTennis@aol.com
    Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 23:25:03 EST
    Subject: Citrus tree
    To: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu
    X-Mailer: AOL 6.0 for Windows US sub 10556

    I have a navel orange tree (dwarf) that has been dropping its leaves.  It started in Nov. and then new leaves came back and now they are dropping in large quantities.  My oranges were very small and some were split and on the ground.  What can I do?

    Thank you,  Margie

    Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D.
    Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist
    University of Arizona
    Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center
    Route 1, Box 40M
    Somerton, AZ 85350
    Phone: 928-726-0458
    FAX: 928-726-1363
    e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu --------------061B0A812A918DA466659E0C-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Feb 21 17:23:09 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 10:23:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Dwarf Asian Pear References: <200202181952.g1IJqvx22243@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C752CFD.EC093CF6@qwest.net> You could do either, but my personal experience with container plants is that they do best when the roots/container receive some shade even while the canopies are in full sun. You also need to have provision for adequate irrigation if you travel with any frequency. You may need to move the container with shifting seasons for adequate sunlight or to avoid burning. Linda Guy, MG aliceh2000@hotmail.com wrote: > I just bought a bare root "ultra dwarf" patio asian pear tree. It is supposed to get no bigger than 5 - 7 feet tall. > Can I plant this is a large container pot or must it be put in the ground? > Thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Feb 21 17:24:42 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 10:24:42 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Trees without Tap Roots References: <200202182150.g1ILonx16955@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C752D5A.E0CAF026@qwest.net> It would be interesting to know why this is of interest to you. If you wish to avoid deep tap roots because of caliche pan, you could still experience problems with drainage without which even a more shallow-rooted tree would die from rot/drowning. Linda Guy, MG ksheehan@aerotechlabs.com wrote: > What kind of trees grow well in the New River area that do not have a tap root system? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Feb 21 17:25:58 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 10:25:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Burning Olive Tree Wood References: <200202182244.g1IMikx28360@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C752DA6.3CC9D4E9@qwest.net> I've never heard this to be an issue, although most of us would say that burning oleander wood could be very bad on the eyes and lungs as the plant is poisonous. Linda Guy, MG pgehlker@fastq.com wrote: > Is it safe to burn olive tree wood? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From gardenguru" Message-ID: <003b01c1bafd$53ccafa0$0d3a2ace@ibm22761658747> The County Ext service has several publications for Citrus. They are shown below. Those with * are available online at the Web address below. The others are available for $1 at their Phx addr also shown below. These are excellent doc. to help you with your Citrus. GG 192038 Citrus - Diseases 192020 Citrus - Home Gardens MC17 Citrus - Irrigation needs AZ1146 Citrus Trees - Budding * MC91 Citrus Trees - Fertilizer AZ1151 Citrus Trees - Irrigating MC65 Citrus Trees - Quality MC08 Citrus Trees - Recovery of Neglected 8670 Citrus Trees in Arizona - Fertilizing AZ1001 Citrus Varieties - Low Desert * AZ1154 Diseases of Citrus in Arizona * http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2002 8:50 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I am going to plant a Lisbon lemon the second week of March in Tucson. I am probably going to put in a 5 gallon plant due to easier installation and a shorter transplant shock period. How much larger should the hole be than the container. My soil is not the best-caliche, but the grapefruit tree planted in July of 1999 is fruited well last year and is slowly gaining frost resistance. It was planted by a landscaper as a 15 gallon, so its shock period was longer. How should the backfill be ammended? Is sour orange still the prefered rootstock for the low desert? Thanks for all your help. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From gardenguru" Message-ID: <003c01c1bafd$5534cb20$0d3a2ace@ibm22761658747> I have located Pumice at Summer Winds Nursery on West Bell. You can call one closest to you to see if they carry it as well. GG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2002 10:00 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I went to a nursery and home depot looking for pumice and they didn't have it. Does anyone know where to get it. Thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From gardenguru" Message-ID: <003d01c1bafd$56415920$0d3a2ace@ibm22761658747> The publications below are available from the Cty Ext office for $1. They will provide you with the data you need to grow corn in AZ. Hope this helps GG 8518 Corn, Sweet - Growing AZ1141 Corn, Sweet - Growing in Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2002 10:05 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I want to plant some sweet corn and I need some information. I only have a 15 by 6 foot space. How should I space the plants? And should I plant in furrows, burrows or flat groud? Any other information or suggestions or where to get information would be appreciated. Thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From gardenguru" Message-ID: <003e01c1bafd$57558840$0d3a2ace@ibm22761658747> The most widely grown Navel is the Washington. Fruit develops its best flavor in the subtropical climates of California, particulary in interior areas, where the cool nights and warm summers help produce fruit with a wonderful balance between sugar and acid and a brightly colored rind. Navels can also be grown in other citrus climates, but quality is not quite as high. The lack of cool nights probably caused the problem with the quality of your navels. Oranges that produce well in our climate include the Valencia, Trovita, Diller, Hamlin and Marrs. Your Lemon is most likely a Lisbon that is better adapted to our hot climate and produces well. Grapefruit has the highest heat requirements among citrus and are well suited for AZ. Tangleos are a cross between mandarins and grapefruit. The Minneola is the most widely grown tangelo and the fruit sweetens only when grown in warm climate regions. In coastal areas of California, the flavor is often to tart for most palates. I don't believe that the problem with your navel has anything to do with your care and feeding, If we get an extended cold spell next year, your navel will improve but your other fruits with probably suffer in quality. Three out of four isn't bad. The County Ext service has several publications for Citrus. They are shown below. Those with * are available online at the Web address below. The others are available for $1 at their Phx addr also shown below. These are excellent doc. to help you with your Citrus. GG 192038 Citrus - Diseases 192020 Citrus - Home Gardens MC17 Citrus - Irrigation needs AZ1146 Citrus Trees - Budding * MC91 Citrus Trees - Fertilizer AZ1151 Citrus Trees - Irrigating MC65 Citrus Trees - Quality MC08 Citrus Trees - Recovery of Neglected 8670 Citrus Trees in Arizona - Fertilizing AZ1001 Citrus Varieties - Low Desert * AZ1154 Diseases of Citrus in Arizona * http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2002 12:37 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > We have 4 citrus trees. One lemon, one grapefruit, one navel orange and one tangelo. The fruit on the lemon, grapefruit and tangelo were great this year. The fruit on the navel orange we beautiful to look at but was dry and pulpy on the inside. We treat all the tress the same. What can we do to prevent this from happening agian? > > Thank you, > Annette > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From gardenguru" Message-ID: <003f01c1bafd$587a8040$0d3a2ace@ibm22761658747> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0022_01C1BAC1.F7A00B40 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Renea, This is a tall order but as long as the planter is in full sun, = You can plant any prostate rosemary, not the upright variety. It grows = quickly, takes full sun, requires little water, is very frost tolerant = at your altitude, blooms several times a year with small purple flowers = that do drop off after blooming, and as a bonus, you can cook with it. = It needs to be TIPPED ( cut tips of new growth ) and it will cascade = beautifully over your planter wall. Do not overwater rosemary, it needs = to dry out between watering. I don't know about the cockroaches.=20 Hope this helps GG ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Renea Ford=20 To: Master Gardener=20 Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2002 7:58 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Vine for upper patio planter I have desert landscaping at 2500 feet. My upper patio is = cantilevered over my lower patio and spa. (The patios have a N-NW = orientation.) A plant "cavity" in direct sun, with a drain and its own = irrigation line, runs the length of the upper patio, E-W. (Spa is not = directly below the outer edge of the planter.) Presently, I have small, = dark green, yam-shaped ice plants in the plant cavity. They are growing = well but are so low in the planter that I doubt the flowers will cascade = (or even show) once they bloom, which has not happened yet (planted last = August). =20 Are there any vines or groundcover I might put in the planter instead = that would (a) flower year-round, (b) grow up, over and down and dangle = like Christmas icicle lights against the patio wall, (c) not create a = lot of litter in my spa below, and (d) not attract cockroaches in the = planter? If not, what might be close and what would their limitations = be? I know I'm asking for a lot! Thank you. ------=_NextPart_000_0022_01C1BAC1.F7A00B40 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

    Renea, This is a tall order but as long as the = planter is=20 in full sun, You can plant any prostate rosemary, not the upright = variety.=20  It grows quickly, takes full sun, requires little water, is very = frost=20 tolerant at your altitude, blooms several times a year with small purple = flowers=20 that do drop off after blooming, and as a bonus, you can cook with = it. It=20 needs to be TIPPED ( cut tips of new growth ) and it will cascade = beautifully=20 over your planter wall. Do not overwater rosemary, it needs to dry out = between=20 watering. I don't know about the cockroaches.
    Hope this helps
    GG
     
    ----- Original Message -----
    From:=20 Renea=20 Ford
    Sent: Wednesday, February 20, = 2002 7:58=20 AM
    Subject: [Arid_gardener] Vine = for upper=20 patio planter

    I have desert landscaping at 2500 feet.  My upper patio = is=20 cantilevered over my lower patio and spa.  (The patios have a = N-NW=20 orientation.)  A plant "cavity" in direct sun, with a drain and = its own=20 irrigation line, runs the length of the upper patio, E-W.  (Spa = is not=20 directly below the outer edge of the planter.) Presently, I have = small,=20 dark green, yam-shaped ice plants in the plant cavity.  They are = growing=20 well but are so low in the planter that I doubt the flowers will = cascade (or=20 even show) once they bloom, which has not happened yet (planted last=20 August). 
     
    Are there any vines or groundcover I might put in the = planter=20 instead that would (a) flower year-round, (b) grow up, over and = down=20 and dangle like Christmas icicle lights against the patio wall, = (c)=20 not create a lot of litter in my spa below, and (d) not attract=20 cockroaches in the planter?  If not, what might be close and what = would=20 their limitations be?
     
    I know I'm asking for a lot!  Thank=20 you.
    ------=_NextPart_000_0022_01C1BAC1.F7A00B40-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Feb 21 17:30:56 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 10:30:56 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bouganvillia (sp) freeze References: <20020221171359.30194.qmail@web10007.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3C752ED0.DA077854@qwest.net> --------------73F65DD2134DBD0FED4A5936 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sorry but Mom is actually partially right. However, you could still impress her by letting her know that you prune the frost damaged portions after all damage of frost is gone. You may still want to wait a few weeks; I'm not sure about your weather in Tucson. Leaving on the parts that are damaged provides insulation to the rest of the plant. The other sounds like purple snail vine and it is a tropical plant that can stay green all year without any frost. Guess what..... This vine can be cut to the ground and will come back in the warming spring. Linda Guy, MG Jessica Boof Sizemore wrote: > I live in Tucson, and a few weeks ago we had a big freeze for about > a week. I have these big Bouganvillia (sp) plants, and thought they > were big enough to not have to cover them.... needless to say they are > quite frozen, all the leaves that were out from under the roof (about > 5/6 of the plants) have fallen off, and the plants look really bad. > What can I do to get them to come back? The little bit that was under > the roof, is now starting to suffer as well. I had heard to just cut > all the dead branches off, and the plant will just grow back... but > this was from my mother, who likes to act knowledgeable, but really > isn't in most cases. > Also I have this great vine plant, that made it through the freeze, > that I thought was a great vine y green leafy plant, but Monday it > started growing these great little purple flowers, that look a little > like orchids. I am so excited, when we bought the house I had no idea, > I always wanted a lot of purple flowers!!! So my question here is, can > I plant a few more of these around the front of the house now, or > should I wait for later in the spring? I have no idea when Tucson's > planting season is. > > Thank you for your time, > Boof > > ===== > Tucson, Az > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Sports - Coverage of the 2002 Olympic Games > http://sports.yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener --------------73F65DD2134DBD0FED4A5936 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sorry but Mom is actually partially right. However, you could still impress her by letting her know that you prune the frost damaged portions after all damage of frost is gone. You may still want to wait a few weeks; I'm not sure about your weather in Tucson. Leaving on the parts that are damaged provides insulation to the rest of the plant.

    The other sounds like purple snail vine and it is a tropical plant that can stay green all year without any frost. Guess what.....  This vine can be cut to the ground and will come back in the warming spring.

    Linda Guy, MG

    Jessica Boof Sizemore wrote:

        I live in Tucson, and a few weeks ago we had a big freeze for about
    a week.  I have these big Bouganvillia (sp) plants, and thought they
    were big enough to not have to cover them.... needless to say they are
    quite frozen, all the leaves that were out from under the roof (about
    5/6 of the plants) have fallen off, and the plants look really bad.
    What can I do to get them to come back?  The little bit that was under
    the roof, is now starting to suffer as well.   I had heard to just cut
    all the dead branches off, and the plant will just grow back... but
    this was from my mother, who likes to act knowledgeable, but really
    isn't in most cases.
        Also I have this great vine plant, that made it through the freeze,
    that I thought was a great vine y green leafy plant, but Monday it
    started growing these great little purple flowers, that look a little
    like orchids.  I am so excited, when we bought the house I had no idea,
    I always wanted a lot of purple flowers!!!  So my question here is, can
    I plant a few more of these around the front of the house now, or
    should I wait for later in the spring? I have no idea when Tucson's
    planting season is.

    Thank you for your time,
    Boof

    =====
    Tucson, Az

    __________________________________________________
    Do You Yahoo!?
    Yahoo! Sports - Coverage of the 2002 Olympic Games
    http://sports.yahoo.com
    _______________________________________________
    Arid_gardener mailing list
    Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
    http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener

    --------------73F65DD2134DBD0FED4A5936-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Feb 21 17:42:04 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 10:42:04 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Frost Damage Message-ID: <3C75316C.383FEC3C@qwest.net> --------------4A342A06832F2815E0DB3945 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hey Boofie, I had a slight typo in my original note. I meant to say you prune after the risk of frost damage is gone. Sorry. Regards to Mom. Linda --------------4A342A06832F2815E0DB3945 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hey Boofie,

    I had a slight typo in my original note. I meant to say you prune after the risk of frost damage is gone. Sorry. Regards to Mom.

    Linda --------------4A342A06832F2815E0DB3945-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Feb 21 17:43:55 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 10:43:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Trees without Tap Roots References: Message-ID: <3C7531DB.B1442AD3@qwest.net> If yo deal first with the caliche, you could plant just about any native tree you would like. Check out the soils chapter which discusses how to handle it, at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ You might be able to get by with drilling holes in the caliche pan to promote drainage. Linda Guy, MG Kyle Sheehan wrote: > Thank you for your quick response! I am interested in this because I want to plant a tree for the one year anniversary of my brothers untimely death. I live south of New River and want to stay with native trees in the area. Unfortunately we do have a caliche problem on my land. Although, there are several trees (all Palo Verde) in my yard that are quite tall that grew there on their own that seem to not have any problems. I really would enjoy a Mesquite but I do not have any on my property that grew there naturally. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Linda Guy [mailto:lindaguy@qwest.net] > Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2002 10:25 AM > To: Kyle Sheehan > Cc: Arid_gardener > Subject: Trees without Tap Roots > > It would be interesting to know why this is of interest to you. If you wish to avoid deep > tap roots because of caliche pan, you could still experience problems with drainage > without which even a more shallow-rooted tree would die from rot/drowning. > > Linda Guy, MG > > ksheehan@aerotechlabs.com wrote: > > > What kind of trees grow well in the New River area that do not have a tap root system? > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Thu Feb 21 17:56:35 2002 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 10:56:35 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bouganvillia (sp) freeze References: <20020221171359.30194.qmail@web10007.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3C7534D3.76952362@email.sps.mot.com> Jessica, Listen to your Mother, for she is exactly right. Cut off all the dead stuff and you will be fine. Make sure all chances of frost are over before you cut back the bougainvillea. In Phoenix that is Feb 15. I'm not sure what the date is in your location. I believe you will be fine planting more the plants you described below now. Although I'm not certain what vine it is that has orchid like flowers. I would be interested in hearing though :) ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.gizmoaz.com Over 240 roses and over 150 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! Check out the Garden Cams on Saturday and Sunday!! I've learned.... That sometimes all a person needs is a hand to hold and a heart to understand. Jessica Boof Sizemore wrote: > I live in Tucson, and a few weeks ago we had a big freeze for about > a week. I have these big Bouganvillia (sp) plants, and thought they > were big enough to not have to cover them.... needless to say they are > quite frozen, all the leaves that were out from under the roof (about > 5/6 of the plants) have fallen off, and the plants look really bad. > What can I do to get them to come back? The little bit that was under > the roof, is now starting to suffer as well. I had heard to just cut > all the dead branches off, and the plant will just grow back... but > this was from my mother, who likes to act knowledgeable, but really > isn't in most cases. > Also I have this great vine plant, that made it through the freeze, > that I thought was a great vine y green leafy plant, but Monday it > started growing these great little purple flowers, that look a little > like orchids. I am so excited, when we bought the house I had no idea, > I always wanted a lot of purple flowers!!! So my question here is, can > I plant a few more of these around the front of the house now, or > should I wait for later in the spring? I have no idea when Tucson's > planting season is. > > Thank you for your time, > Boof > > ===== > Tucson, Az > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Sports - Coverage of the 2002 Olympic Games > http://sports.yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From jhendry@azleg.state.az.us Thu Feb 21 18:20:43 2002 From: jhendry@azleg.state.az.us (jhendry@azleg.state.az.us) Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 11:20:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202211820.g1LIKgx16072@Ag.arizona.edu> I recently purchased a bag of fertilizer/insecticide from Home Depot. Unfortunately I do not know the name, nor do they have any left in the store, so that I could check on the ingredients. It was in pellet form and to course to go through a hand spreader. I put the application on by hand and some of this got on the shrubs. I watered this throughly after application, however, in two days the shrubs are burned to a crisp. It burned the lantana and the magnolia bushes. They are so burnt it almost looks like they were in a fire. Most of the lawn is greener and thicker, however, there are also some burnt spots. What should I do? Could the Magnolia be saved if I had it cut down almost to the ground? I did not put any one a cactus I had in a 5 gallon container but it has brown blisters all over it. The day after I applied this it was terribly windy could this have contributed to this fertilizer being scattered. I don't know where to start on this mess. I have asked HOme Depot to find out what this was so I could find out the ingredients. Any help you can give will be appreciated. From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Feb 21 20:17:08 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 13:17:08 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Flower plantings References: <200202062041.g16KfGD17577@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C7555C4.402E92B4@qwest.net> To get you started, here is another resource from the January issue of Sunset Magazine. http://www.sunset.com/Premium/Garden/2002/01-Jan/ColorCalendar0102/ColorCalendarSW0102.html#Anchor-12-49575 Linda Guy, MG DorthK@aol.com wrote: > I want to start a huge flower garden in Mesa area. I would like flowers to bloom mostly in May and October. What annuals and Perennials would I choose. Also when should they be planted. > > I am from MN and know all the right flowers there but not here in AZ. Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From tazbrooke@hotmail.com Fri Feb 22 18:55:57 2002 From: tazbrooke@hotmail.com (tazbrooke@hotmail.com) Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 11:55:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202221855.g1MItvx27680@Ag.arizona.edu> I am very interested in vermicomposting here in Mesa. Do you have any information on it? (i.e. where to buy worms here in the valley, which boxes work best for this area, anything that might be helpful to me. I live out east (Power and Williamsfield Rd, so the weather is a little cooler than the Phoenix area. Thanks, Brooke From beeb524@aol.com Sat Feb 23 00:11:13 2002 From: beeb524@aol.com (beeb524@aol.com) Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 17:11:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202230011.g1N0BDx02753@Ag.arizona.edu> We have been picking our fruit on an "as needed" basis, but when is the latest we should harvest our citrus (Lisbon lemon, Arizona sweet orange & blood orange)? Thanks. From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Feb 23 14:37:41 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 07:37:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Vermicomposting References: <200202221855.g1MItvx27680@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C77A935.DC2DA873@qwest.net> Here are some other replies from previous questions. You can easily get more info by using the search function in our archives. http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-June/004511.html http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-July/004862.html Good luck, Linda Guy, MG tazbrooke@hotmail.com wrote: > I am very interested in vermicomposting here in Mesa. Do you have any information on it? (i.e. where to buy worms here in the valley, which boxes work best for this area, anything that might be helpful to me. I live out east (Power and Williamsfield Rd, so the weather is a little cooler than the Phoenix area. > Thanks, > Brooke > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From gardenguru" Message-ID: <01b601c1bc8e$92cef860$0d3a2ace@ibm22761658747> Lisbon lemons prime harvest period is from late Nov to May althought they can be harvested year round with little lost of flavor. There are several oranges sold in AZ as Arizona Sweets. The Hamlin - Oct to Feb, the Marrs - Oct to Mar, the Diller - Nov to Mar. Blood Oranges include the Moro - Nov to June, the Sanguinelli - Feb to July. Hope this helps. GG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, February 22, 2002 5:11 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > We have been picking our fruit on an "as needed" basis, but when is the latest we should harvest our citrus (Lisbon lemon, Arizona sweet orange & blood orange)? > > Thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From windbuddy@hotmail.com Sat Feb 23 19:13:59 2002 From: windbuddy@hotmail.com (windbuddy@hotmail.com) Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 12:13:59 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202231913.g1NJDxx08369@Ag.arizona.edu> My question is what are the proper procedures for pruning a 10 year old peach tree. It has been avery abundant producer in the past, but it is pretty unshapely and becoming harder to access. Any information would be much appreciated. Thank You From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Feb 23 21:52:49 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 16:52:49 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Peach Tree, thinning Message-ID: <102.110ab6a3.29a96931@aol.com> --part1_102.110ab6a3.29a96931_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The Master Gardener Manual has a chapter on fruit trees with a section on thinning fruit on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_102.110ab6a3.29a96931_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The Master Gardener Manual has a chapter on fruit trees with a section on thinning fruit on line at:  http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/index.html

    Good luck.

    Rod McKusick
    Master Gardener     --part1_102.110ab6a3.29a96931_boundary-- From dgivens@ieee.org Sat Feb 23 22:34:33 2002 From: dgivens@ieee.org (dgivens@ieee.org) Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 15:34:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202232234.g1NMYXx24702@Ag.arizona.edu> My 15 year-old jacaranda tree has what appears to be large amounts of dead branches around the top. There is also a dry-appearing scaliness to the bark. The tree has grown well and seems otherwise healthy. I noticed a similar condition last year, with quite a bit fewer dead branches. The tree flowered well last year. I have some suspicion it might have been underwatered but not by much. We also had colder temperatures a few days this winter, perhaps as low as 30 degrees. I have seen other older, larger trees which appear to have the same condition. I have adjusted the watering and given the tree 5 pounds of tree fertilizer. Are the dead branches a problem or just a normal condition? What do you recommend I do? From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun Feb 24 02:52:23 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 19:52:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roaches in upper patio planter References: <00b801c1ba1f$6b293620$c78b85ce@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <3C785566.DF2B8173@qwest.net> --------------B5B3AA24367DB3671A022007 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In my experience, a shaded moist area is the perfect place for roaches to congregate. You can choose to plant with low water use materials and irrigate very infrequently, but I think the roaches might still choose to stay because of the shade and decaying material. You may have to put in roach traps [I think they're usually boric acid based] to control the roach population. http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/insects/cockroaches/cockroachmanagement.html http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/insects/cockroaches/fieldcockroach.html http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/insects/cockroaches/turkestancockroaches.html Linda Guy, MG Renea Ford wrote: > I have desert landscaping at 2500 feet. My upper patio is > cantilevered over my lower patio and spa. (The patios have a N-NW > orientation.) A plant "cavity" in direct sun, with a drain and its > own irrigation line, runs the length of the upper patio, E-W. (Spa is > not directly below the outer edge of the planter.) Presently, I have > small, dark green, yam-shaped ice plants in the plant cavity. They > are growing well but are so low in the planter that I doubt the > flowers will cascade (or even show) once they bloom, which has not > happened yet (planted last August). Are there any vines or groundcover > I might put in the planter instead that would (a) flower year-round, > (b) grow up, over and down and dangle like Christmas icicle lights > against the patio wall, (c) not create a lot of litter in my spa > below, and (d) not attract cockroaches in the planter? If not, what > might be close and what would their limitations be? I know I'm asking > for a lot! Thank you. --------------B5B3AA24367DB3671A022007 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In my experience, a shaded moist area is the perfect place for roaches to congregate. You can choose to plant with low water use materials and irrigate very infrequently, but I think the roaches might still choose to stay because of the shade and decaying material. You may have to put in roach traps [I think they're usually boric acid based] to control the roach population.

    http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/insects/cockroaches/cockroachmanagement.html
    http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/insects/cockroaches/fieldcockroach.html
    http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/insects/cockroaches/turkestancockroaches.html

    Linda Guy, MG

    Renea Ford wrote:

    I have desert landscaping at 2500 feet.  My upper patio is cantilevered over my lower patio and spa.  (The patios have a N-NW orientation.)  A plant "cavity" in direct sun, with a drain and its own irrigation line, runs the length of the upper patio, E-W.  (Spa is not directly below the outer edge of the planter.) Presently, I have small, dark green, yam-shaped ice plants in the plant cavity.  They are growing well but are so low in the planter that I doubt the flowers will cascade (or even show) once they bloom, which has not happened yet (planted last August). Are there any vines or groundcover I might put in the planter instead that would (a) flower year-round, (b) grow up, over and down and dangle like Christmas icicle lights against the patio wall, (c) not create a lot of litter in my spa below, and (d) not attract cockroaches in the planter?  If not, what might be close and what would their limitations be? I know I'm asking for a lot!  Thank you.
    --------------B5B3AA24367DB3671A022007-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun Feb 24 02:55:46 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 19:55:46 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Worms/organic matter References: <200202221855.g1MItvx27680@Ag.arizona.edu> <3C77A935.DC2DA873@qwest.net> <000201c1bc8c$f994b3c0$6939bbd0@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <3C785632.FE77B788@qwest.net> Composted steer manure usually about 4 weeks before fall and spring plantings, as well as homemade compost from mostly hybrid bermuda clippings and kitchen wastes. But as I have posted in the past, the most evident worm populations are in the beds that are shaded in winter by adjacent trees....they are closest to the surface and most easily visible by the fine crumbly soil that covers these areas. Linda Guy, MG Jonathan Kandell wrote: > You mentioned your own garden is packed with worms from adding organic > matter twice a year. Curious what type of organic matter you add and how > deep you put it. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Linda Guy > To: > Cc: Arid_gardener > Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2002 7:37 AM > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Vermicomposting > > | Here are some other replies from previous questions. You can easily get > more info by using the search function in our archives. > | > | http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-June/004511.html > | http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-July/004862.html > | > | Good luck, > | Linda Guy, MG > | > | tazbrooke@hotmail.com wrote: > | > | > I am very interested in vermicomposting here in Mesa. Do you have any > information on it? (i.e. where to buy worms here in the valley, which boxes > work best for this area, anything that might be helpful to me. I live out > east (Power and Williamsfield Rd, so the weather is a little cooler than the > Phoenix area. > | > Thanks, > | > Brooke > | > > | > _______________________________________________ > | > Arid_gardener mailing list > | > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > | > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > | > | _______________________________________________ > | Arid_gardener mailing list > | Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > | http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > | From clif@unforgettable.com Sun Feb 24 06:12:53 2002 From: clif@unforgettable.com (clif@unforgettable.com) Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 23:12:53 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202240612.g1O6Crx02330@Ag.arizona.edu> I have an orange mexican bird of paradise plant and it looks dead. How can I tell if it is dead or dormant? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Feb 24 18:47:15 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 13:47:15 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Red Bird of Paradise (Caesalpinia pulcherrima) Message-ID: <3b.2285068d.29aa8f33@aol.com> --part1_3b.2285068d.29aa8f33_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The Red Bird of Paradise is sometimes incorrectly called Mexican Bird of Paradise, the Mexican Bird has yellow flowers. This plant goes deciduous in the winter here in the low desert and looses all its leaves giving one the impression that it may be dead. Common practice calls for pruning back the Red Bird after the danger of frost is past( which is now) to 6 to 12 inches above ground..A dead plant will have shoots that will fracture when bent slightly whereas a live plant will have shoots that are flexible and look greenish. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_3b.2285068d.29aa8f33_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The Red Bird of Paradise is sometimes incorrectly  called Mexican Bird of Paradise, the Mexican Bird has yellow flowers. This plant goes deciduous in the winter here in the low desert and looses all its leaves giving one the impression that it may be dead. Common practice calls for pruning back the Red Bird after the danger of frost is past( which is now) to 6 to 12 inches above ground..A dead plant will have shoots that will fracture when bent slightly whereas a live plant will have shoots that are flexible and look greenish.

    Good luck.

    Rod McKusick
    Master Gardener       --part1_3b.2285068d.29aa8f33_boundary-- From pensacolaboy@earthlink.net Sun Feb 24 18:42:51 2002 From: pensacolaboy@earthlink.net (pensacolaboy) Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 11:42:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] plants for north facing courtyard Message-ID: <024401c1bd63$10dfd100$ae450142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0241_01C1BD28.64025320 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I posted this last week and if someone responded, I missed it.=20 I live in north Scottsdale at 2100' elevation. My home has a north = facing courtyard which receives no direct sun during the winter and lots = during the summer. So the effect is from cold and shady to hot and = sunny, winter to summer. I would like to have some potted plants in = this area, preferably something that would not be shedding lots of = leaves. Any recommendations? ------=_NextPart_000_0241_01C1BD28.64025320 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
    I posted this last week and if someone = responded, I=20 missed it. 
     
    I live in north Scottsdale at 2100'=20 elevation.  My home has a north facing courtyard which receives no = direct=20 sun during the winter and lots during the summer.  So the effect is = from=20 cold and shady to hot and sunny, winter to summer.  I would like to = have=20 some potted plants in this area, preferably something that would not be = shedding=20 lots of leaves.  Any = recommendations?
    ------=_NextPart_000_0241_01C1BD28.64025320-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Feb 24 19:02:37 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 14:02:37 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Jacaranda with dead branches Message-ID: <61.1b755d6f.29aa92cd@aol.com> --part1_61.1b755d6f.29aa92cd_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The jacaranda tree appears to have some annual die back of smaller branches. If the die back is excessive then I would certainly recommend taking a good look at your irrigation practice. Be sure that you are deep watering the entire root zone periodically. Check out this site for info on adequate irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_61.1b755d6f.29aa92cd_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The jacaranda tree appears to have some annual die back of smaller branches. If the die back is excessive then I would certainly recommend taking a good look at your irrigation practice. Be sure that you are deep watering the entire root zone periodically.
    Check out this site for info on adequate irrigation:
    http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

    Good luck.

    Rod McKusick
    Master Gardener and Arborist     --part1_61.1b755d6f.29aa92cd_boundary-- From rmford1@mindspring.com Mon Feb 25 02:12:36 2002 From: rmford1@mindspring.com (Renea Ford) Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 19:12:36 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Dehydrated-looking saguaro Message-ID: <003001c1bda1$e5e8ad20$4bbbb23f@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_002D_01C1BD67.3875A600 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable One of my saguaros is approximately 25 feet tall. It is yellow-green in = color and looks as if all the water has been sucked out of it, with all = the spines accentuated its entire length. Half-way up, just above where = its arms attach, it looks like it is buckling and leaning slightly. = When I moved into my home a year ago, it looked full and darker green. = It is close to my house and I had scaffolding situated on the ground = near it for some time as I built my home. My home is a two-story and is = west of the saguaro so that by early afternoon it's already in quite a = bit of shade (which it never was before). Also, rock has been laid = along one side of the saguaro. The other saguaros on our property look = hydrated and darker green. Any ideas as to what's wrong and how I might = remedy it? Do you know of consultants who specialize in diagnosing and = treating saguaros on-site? ------=_NextPart_000_002D_01C1BD67.3875A600 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
    One of my saguaros is approximately 25 feet = tall.  It is=20 yellow-green in color and looks as if all the water has been sucked out = of it,=20 with all the spines accentuated its entire length.  Half-way up, = just above=20 where its arms attach, it looks like it is buckling and leaning = slightly. =20 When I moved into my home a year ago, it looked full and = darker=20 green.  It is close to my house and I had scaffolding = situated on=20 the ground near it for some time as I built my home.  My home is a=20 two-story and is west of the saguaro so that by early=20 afternoon it's already in quite a bit of shade (which it never was=20 before).  Also, rock has been laid along one side of the=20 saguaro.  The other saguaros on our property look hydrated and = darker=20 green.  Any ideas as to what's wrong and how I might remedy = it?  Do=20 you know of consultants who specialize in diagnosing and=20 treating saguaros on-site?
    ------=_NextPart_000_002D_01C1BD67.3875A600-- From rmford1@mindspring.com Mon Feb 25 02:51:44 2002 From: rmford1@mindspring.com (Renea Ford) Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 19:51:44 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fw: Dehydrated-looking saguaro Message-ID: <003501c1bda7$5d130440$4bbbb23f@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0032_01C1BD6C.AF9E7680 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I'd like to add that I built around an existing saguaro on my property = -- it was not transplanted. ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Renea Ford=20 To: Master Gardener=20 Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2002 7:12 PM Subject: Dehydrated-looking saguaro One of my saguaros is approximately 25 feet tall. It is yellow-green in = color and looks as if all the water has been sucked out of it, with all = the spines accentuated its entire length. Half-way up, just above where = its arms attach, it looks like it is buckling and leaning slightly. = When I moved into my home a year ago, it looked full and darker green. = It is close to my house and I had scaffolding situated on the ground = near it for some time as I built my home. My home is a two-story and is = west of the saguaro so that by early afternoon it's already in quite a = bit of shade (which it never was before). Also, rock has been laid = along one side of the saguaro. The other saguaros on our property look = hydrated and darker green. Any ideas as to what's wrong and how I might = remedy it? Do you know of consultants who specialize in diagnosing and = treating saguaros on-site? ------=_NextPart_000_0032_01C1BD6C.AF9E7680 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
    I'd like to add that I built around an existing = saguaro on my=20 property -- it was not transplanted.
     
    ----- Original Message -----=20
    From: Renea Ford=20
    Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2002 7:12 PM
    Subject: Dehydrated-looking saguaro

    One of my saguaros is approximately 25 feet = tall.  It is=20 yellow-green in color and looks as if all the water has been sucked out = of it,=20 with all the spines accentuated its entire length.  Half-way up, = just above=20 where its arms attach, it looks like it is buckling and leaning = slightly. =20 When I moved into my home a year ago, it looked full and = darker=20 green.  It is close to my house and I had scaffolding = situated on=20 the ground near it for some time as I built my home.  My home is a=20 two-story and is west of the saguaro so that by early=20 afternoon it's already in quite a bit of shade (which it never was=20 before).  Also, rock has been laid along one side of the=20 saguaro.  The other saguaros on our property look hydrated and = darker=20 green.  Any ideas as to what's wrong and how I might remedy = it?  Do=20 you know of consultants who specialize in diagnosing and=20 treating saguaros on-site?
    ------=_NextPart_000_0032_01C1BD6C.AF9E7680-- From mmb@storyteller.net Mon Feb 25 18:06:22 2002 From: mmb@storyteller.net (Michelle B) Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 11:06:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Do these fruit trees need trunk-wrapping? Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020225105522.00b2b800@mail.storyteller.net> This January I planted two bareroot fruit trees, a semi-dwarf almond and a dwarf nectarine. Do either of these trees require summer sun protection for their trunks, and if so, for just their first summer, or repeatedly? Is white paint or wrapping best? There will be no shade on either of them this summer. I live in the east section of Avondale. Thank you so much for your help. Michelle ****************************************** We Hate Snoring http://www.wehatesnoring.com From umiller@azdps.com Mon Feb 25 22:21:31 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 15:21:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Do these fruit trees need trunk-wrapping? In-Reply-To: <4.3.2.7.2.20020225105522.00b2b800@mail.storyteller.net> Message-ID: I don't know about the almond, but you should do something with the trunk of the nectarine tree. You can use regular white latex paint or wrap it. When my grapefruit tree was young, I wrapped it double with left-over screening material - the flexible soft material that can be bought in a nursery or home store - looks like a green mesh. I imagine that burlap would work, too. Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Michelle B Sent: Monday, February 25, 2002 11:06 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Do these fruit trees need trunk-wrapping? This January I planted two bareroot fruit trees, a semi-dwarf almond and a dwarf nectarine. Do either of these trees require summer sun protection for their trunks, and if so, for just their first summer, or repeatedly? Is white paint or wrapping best? There will be no shade on either of them this summer. I live in the east section of Avondale. Thank you so much for your help. Michelle ****************************************** We Hate Snoring http://www.wehatesnoring.com _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From secretgarden49@msn.com Tue Feb 26 02:15:17 2002 From: secretgarden49@msn.com (secretgarden49@msn.com) Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 19:15:17 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202260215.g1Q2FHx28401@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a Queen's Wreath vine that has been damaged by the frost. Should I cut it back or just leave it? It had wonderful pink flowers on it until the cold weather. I am certain it is still alive. Also, is there anything in particular I should do to help my euryop daisies thrive? They seem to get all woody. I do deadhead them but they just expire. Thank you! From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue Feb 26 04:20:39 2002 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 21:20:39 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Queen's Wreath References: <200202260215.g1Q2FHx28401@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000401c1be7c$f4d97a40$1750530c@j0r9501> We always cut out Coral Vine (AKA Queen's Wreath) off at ground level at or about Thanksgiving Day an it always comes back and grows up to the eaves. Been doing his for over 20 years. So I believe yours is okay. No experience with the daisies. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > I have a Queen's Wreath vine that has been damaged by the frost. Should I cut it back or just leave it? It had wonderful pink flowers on it until the cold weather. I am certain it is still alive. Also, is there anything in particular I should do to help my euryop daisies thrive? They seem to get all woody. I do deadhead them but they just expire. From libbyjeffg@earthlink.net Tue Feb 26 04:52:08 2002 From: libbyjeffg@earthlink.net (libbyjeffg@earthlink.net) Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 21:52:08 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202260452.g1Q4q8x21260@Ag.arizona.edu> Hello, We need some help. ( sure you have never heard that one before ) We have a ficus tree that has been planted for about 1 year. When & what type of fertilizer do we need to use on this tree? The leaves are starting to turn yellow and has raised some concerns with us. The ground is hard where the tree was planted ( by a nursery ) and we water it weekly. If you can give us any advise, we would appreciate it. Thank you for your time. From Krulich@aol.com Tue Feb 26 16:23:14 2002 From: Krulich@aol.com (Krulich@aol.com) Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 11:23:14 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Couple questions about mulberry and citrus trees Message-ID: <118.d2e8159.29ad1072@aol.com> My mulberry trees are coming out of dormancy here in Tucson, and I was wondering if they would benefit from an application of ammonium sulfate. If so, how much should I apply? Also, I'm planting some 5 gallon citrus trees this week and would like to know when I should fertilize them and how much to apply. Thanks, Tom From rmford1@mindspring.com Tue Feb 26 18:17:43 2002 From: rmford1@mindspring.com (Renea Ford) Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 11:17:43 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Name of shrub Message-ID: <001601c1bef2$36d86940$63cc56d1@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C1BEB7.35960000 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I thought one of my shrubs was a Justicia californica (Chuparosa) until = it blossomed narrow, inch-long, medium yellow, tubular flowers this = week. The shrub is soft and rubbery to the touch, grey-green, and = despite its flexibility, the stems snap off relatively easily. It is = evergreen and the leaves are small and deltoid-shaped. Any ideas? ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C1BEB7.35960000 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
    I thought one of my shrubs was a Justicia = californica=20 (Chuparosa) until it blossomed narrow, inch-long, medium yellow, tubular = flowers=20 this week.  The shrub is soft and rubbery to the touch, grey-green, = and=20 despite its flexibility, the stems snap off relatively easily.  It = is=20 evergreen and the leaves are small and deltoid-shaped.  Any=20 ideas?
    ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C1BEB7.35960000-- From rmford1@mindspring.com Tue Feb 26 18:17:43 2002 From: rmford1@mindspring.com (Renea Ford) Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 11:17:43 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Name of shrub Message-ID: <001a01c1bef2$775f9380$63cc56d1@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C1BEB7.35960000 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I thought one of my shrubs was a Justicia californica (Chuparosa) until = it blossomed narrow, inch-long, medium yellow, tubular flowers this = week. The shrub is soft and rubbery to the touch, grey-green, and = despite its flexibility, the stems snap off relatively easily. It is = evergreen and the leaves are small and deltoid-shaped. Any ideas? ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C1BEB7.35960000 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
    I thought one of my shrubs was a Justicia = californica=20 (Chuparosa) until it blossomed narrow, inch-long, medium yellow, tubular = flowers=20 this week.  The shrub is soft and rubbery to the touch, grey-green, = and=20 despite its flexibility, the stems snap off relatively easily.  It = is=20 evergreen and the leaves are small and deltoid-shaped.  Any=20 ideas?
    ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C1BEB7.35960000-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Feb 26 19:37:18 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 19:37:18 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Couple questions about mulberry and citrus trees Message-ID: You could fertilize the mulberry now with ammonium sulphate. I'm away from the office at the moment, but if you call the Tucson Office at 626-5161 they can get the corrrect amount for you. Citrus do not need to be fertilized when you plant them. You can probably wait a year or two before fertlizing. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Krulich@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Couple questions about mulberry and citrus trees >Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 11:23:14 EST > >My mulberry trees are coming out of dormancy here in Tucson, and I was >wondering if they would benefit from an application of ammonium sulfate. >If so, how much should I apply? > >Also, I'm planting some 5 gallon citrus trees this week and would like to >know when I should fertilize them and how much to apply. > >Thanks, >Tom >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 26 21:12:00 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 14:12:00 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Justicia californica 'Yellow' References: <001a01c1bef2$775f9380$63cc56d1@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <3C7BFA20.FD0CCA0E@qwest.net> --------------748F99C5E9502CE01E875C12 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit There is also a yellow form. I saw it today at the DBG and it is listed in the newest Sunset Western Garden Book. Linda Guy, MG Renea Ford wrote: > I thought one of my shrubs was a Justicia californica (Chuparosa) > until it blossomed narrow, inch-long, medium yellow, tubular flowers > this week. The shrub is soft and rubbery to the touch, grey-green, > and despite its flexibility, the stems snap off relatively easily. It > is evergreen and the leaves are small and deltoid-shaped. Any ideas? --------------748F99C5E9502CE01E875C12 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit There is also a yellow form. I saw it today at the DBG and it is listed in the newest Sunset Western Garden Book.

    Linda Guy, MG

    Renea Ford wrote:

    I thought one of my shrubs was a Justicia californica (Chuparosa) until it blossomed narrow, inch-long, medium yellow, tubular flowers this week.  The shrub is soft and rubbery to the touch, grey-green, and despite its flexibility, the stems snap off relatively easily.  It is evergreen and the leaves are small and deltoid-shaped.  Any ideas?
    --------------748F99C5E9502CE01E875C12-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 26 21:30:43 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 14:30:43 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Dehydrated-looking saguaro References: <003001c1bda1$e5e8ad20$4bbbb23f@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <3C7BFE83.3BECDFBE@qwest.net> --------------736A8587E9C89998C8ECC7A9 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I am more apt to consider that the saguaro's shallow root structure was heavily damaged during construction; because an established saguaro does not generally require watering in the cool season. It usually takes temps below 21F to generate severe frost damage. One of the diseases peculiar to saguaro is described at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/saguaro.htm and if you have this bacterial rot, you will want to act with speed. If the problem is too big for you to manage, you will need the services of a specialist. If it is determined you will lose the plant, you may want to permit it to dry in place [or at least on the ground if it threatens to topple] to retain the woody skeleton that appears after the softer tissue has decayed. Linda Guy, MG If the saguaro is Renea Ford wrote: > One of my saguaros is approximately 25 feet tall. It is yellow-green > in color and looks as if all the water has been sucked out of it, with > all the spines accentuated its entire length. Half-way up, just above > where its arms attach, it looks like it is buckling and leaning > slightly. When I moved into my home a year ago, it looked full and > darker green. It is close to my house and I had scaffolding situated > on the ground near it for some time as I built my home. My home is a > two-story and is west of the saguaro so that by early afternoon it's > already in quite a bit of shade (which it never was before). Also, > rock has been laid along one side of the saguaro. The other saguaros > on our property look hydrated and darker green. Any ideas as to > what's wrong and how I might remedy it? Do you know of consultants > who specialize in diagnosing and treating saguaros on-site? --------------736A8587E9C89998C8ECC7A9 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I am more apt to consider that the saguaro's shallow root structure was heavily damaged during construction; because an established saguaro does not generally require watering in the cool season. It usually takes temps below 21F to generate severe frost damage. One of the diseases peculiar to saguaro is described at  http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/saguaro.htm
    and if you have this bacterial rot, you will want to act with speed.

    If the problem is too big for you to manage, you will need the services of a specialist. If it is determined you will lose the plant, you may want to permit it to dry in place [or at least on the ground if it threatens to topple] to retain the woody skeleton that appears after the softer tissue has decayed.

    Linda Guy, MG

    If the saguaro is

    Renea Ford wrote:

    One of my saguaros is approximately 25 feet tall.  It is yellow-green in color and looks as if all the water has been sucked out of it, with all the spines accentuated its entire length.  Half-way up, just above where its arms attach, it looks like it is buckling and leaning slightly.  When I moved into my home a year ago, it looked full and darker green.  It is close to my house and I had scaffolding situated on the ground near it for some time as I built my home.  My home is a two-story and is west of the saguaro so that by early afternoon it's already in quite a bit of shade (which it never was before).  Also, rock has been laid along one side of the saguaro.  The other saguaros on our property look hydrated and darker green.  Any ideas as to what's wrong and how I might remedy it?  Do you know of consultants who specialize in diagnosing and treating saguaros on-site?
    --------------736A8587E9C89998C8ECC7A9-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 26 21:40:13 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 14:40:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Do these fruit trees need trunk-wrapping? References: <4.3.2.7.2.20020225105522.00b2b800@mail.storyteller.net> Message-ID: <3C7C00BD.65025281@qwest.net> I remember learning about citrus requiring trunk protection [since we turn what are essentially large shrubs into trees with our pruning], but I was never told that deciduous fruit trees required this. You can review the relevant chapter in the Master Gardener Manual http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/fruit/index.html or order publication MC 90, which discusses various varieties at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm I reviewed both and saw no recommendation to do this. Nor do I remember it being discussed at this January's Fruit Clinics. I've only had a very few deciduous fruit trees and I wrapped none of them. [I'm in Phoenix, which is probably hotter than Ursula's locale in Tucson.] Linda Guy, MG Michelle B wrote: > This January I planted two bareroot fruit trees, a semi-dwarf almond and a > dwarf nectarine. Do either of these trees require summer sun protection for > their trunks, and if so, for just their first summer, or repeatedly? Is > white paint or wrapping best? There will be no shade on either of them this > summer. I live in the east section of Avondale. > > Thank you so much for your help. > Michelle > ****************************************** > We Hate Snoring > http://www.wehatesnoring.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From rmford1@mindspring.com Tue Feb 26 18:17:43 2002 From: rmford1@mindspring.com (Renea Ford) Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 11:17:43 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Name of shrub Message-ID: <000201c1bf13$53ff2b00$28cd56d1@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C1BEB7.35960000 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I thought one of my shrubs was a Justicia californica (Chuparosa) until = it blossomed narrow, inch-long, medium yellow, tubular flowers this = week. The shrub is soft and rubbery to the touch, grey-green, and = despite its flexibility, the stems snap off relatively easily. It is = evergreen and the leaves are small and deltoid-shaped. Any ideas? ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C1BEB7.35960000 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
    I thought one of my shrubs was a Justicia = californica=20 (Chuparosa) until it blossomed narrow, inch-long, medium yellow, tubular = flowers=20 this week.  The shrub is soft and rubbery to the touch, grey-green, = and=20 despite its flexibility, the stems snap off relatively easily.  It = is=20 evergreen and the leaves are small and deltoid-shaped.  Any=20 ideas?
    ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C1BEB7.35960000-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Feb 26 22:34:37 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 17:34:37 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ficus Tree, fertilizing Message-ID: <130.a04ebb7.29ad677d@aol.com> --part1_130.a04ebb7.29ad677d_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit You didn't say how large the Ficus tree is, but you will be safe in applying 1/2 cup of either an all purpose fertilizer or amonium sulfate. Be sure to water it in well. Yellow leaves this time of year is usually weather related, however in your case you are over watering if you are watering once a week. Check out this site for info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_130.a04ebb7.29ad677d_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit You didn't say how large the Ficus tree is, but you will be safe in applying 1/2 cup of either an all purpose fertilizer or amonium sulfate. Be sure to water it in well.
    Yellow leaves this time of year is usually weather related, however in your case you are over watering if you are watering once a week.
    Check out this site for info on irrigation:  http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

    Good luck.

    Rod McKusick
    Master Gardener and Arborist     --part1_130.a04ebb7.29ad677d_boundary-- From joebettymaz@cs.com Wed Feb 27 00:07:17 2002 From: joebettymaz@cs.com (joebettymaz@cs.com) Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 17:07:17 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202270007.g1R07Hx18537@Ag.arizona.edu> How much water do you give a QueenPlam and the time for feeling. From jkbryson@ureach.com Wed Feb 27 00:27:56 2002 From: jkbryson@ureach.com (jkbryson@ureach.com) Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 17:27:56 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202270027.g1R0Rux22103@Ag.arizona.edu> Do you have a recommendation for a sealant for concrete and masonry block? I'm working on a raised garden bed and I need to seal the concrete borders (to keep water from leaking through) before I prepare the soil. Do you have a recommendation for a good product for this type of thing? Any suggestions that you have would be appreciated. Julia Bryson 480-926-2899 From umiller@azdps.com Wed Feb 27 00:50:45 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 17:50:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palms In-Reply-To: <200202270007.g1R07Hx18537@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: If you go to this site: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener and type in Queen Palm or Queen Palms and hit the search button, you'll find previous discussions about this topic. There is information on watering, feeding and links to other sites for palm maintenance. You can use this site for any other arid gardening topics. Just type in the word and search. Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of joebettymaz@cs.com Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2002 5:07 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How much water do you give a QueenPlam and the time for feeling. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From jrwy@mindspring.com Wed Feb 27 02:48:54 2002 From: jrwy@mindspring.com (jrwy@mindspring.com) Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 19:48:54 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202270248.g1R2msx09907@Ag.arizona.edu> I live on the slope of the Phoenix mountains. We have 3 citrus trees with +/- 3 inch deep watering wells extending to the drip line. I plan to landscape with a 1 1/2 inch layer of decomposed granite. What are the pros and cons of extending the decomposed granite in the watering well under the trees? From jackee@dealejandro.com Wed Feb 27 04:39:13 2002 From: jackee@dealejandro.com (Jackee De Alejandro) Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 21:39:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] The case of the Siamese Twin Apple Tree Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0020_01C1BF0E.091E1BA0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Here another noodle scratcher for you guys. My neighbor has an apple tree in her front yard. It is only about 10 ft tall and has two main trucks coming from the ground. Each truck is very distinct, the trunks only connect at the very bottom, but they do connect. Each trunk looks like it's own tree, almost like the letter V, but a little straighter. Now get this, the trunk on the left is blooming...leaves, flowers, the whole shebang, BUT the trunk on the right is still dormant, just bare branches. My neighbor tells me that the left trunk bears fruit first with the right trunk bearing later. Almost as if they were two separate trees! She wanted me to ask you guys about the tree (I kinda tell her I have some master gardening friends). She didn't plant the tree. Like all of us military folk...it was there when we moved in. The only thing I could think of was that one of the trunks is an overgrown sucker that is root stock. What do you think? Jackee at Luke ------=_NextPart_000_0020_01C1BF0E.091E1BA0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
    Here = another noodle=20 scratcher for you guys.
     
    My = neighbor has an=20 apple tree in her front yard. It is only about 10 ft tall and has two = main=20 trucks coming from the ground. Each truck is very distinct, the trunks = only=20 connect at the very bottom, but they do connect. Each trunk looks like = it's own=20 tree, almost like the letter V, but a little straighter. =
     
    Now = get this, the=20 trunk on the left is blooming...leaves, flowers, the whole shebang, BUT = the=20 trunk on the right is still dormant, just bare branches. My neighbor = tells me=20 that the left trunk bears fruit first with the right trunk bearing = later. Almost=20 as if they were two separate trees!
     
    She = wanted me to ask=20 you guys about the tree (I kinda tell her I have some master gardening = friends).=20 She didn't plant the tree. Like all of us military folk...it was there = when we=20 moved in.
     
    The = only thing I=20 could think of was that one of the trunks is an overgrown sucker that is = root=20 stock. What do you think?

    Jackee at=20 Luke

    ------=_NextPart_000_0020_01C1BF0E.091E1BA0-- From rmford1@mindspring.com Tue Feb 26 18:17:43 2002 From: rmford1@mindspring.com (Renea Ford) Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 11:17:43 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Name of shrub Message-ID: <001701c1bef2$61e5d5a0$63cc56d1@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C1BEB7.35960000 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I thought one of my shrubs was a Justicia californica (Chuparosa) until = it blossomed narrow, inch-long, medium yellow, tubular flowers this = week. The shrub is soft and rubbery to the touch, grey-green, and = despite its flexibility, the stems snap off relatively easily. It is = evergreen and the leaves are small and deltoid-shaped. Any ideas? ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C1BEB7.35960000 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
    I thought one of my shrubs was a Justicia = californica=20 (Chuparosa) until it blossomed narrow, inch-long, medium yellow, tubular = flowers=20 this week.  The shrub is soft and rubbery to the touch, grey-green, = and=20 despite its flexibility, the stems snap off relatively easily.  It = is=20 evergreen and the leaves are small and deltoid-shaped.  Any=20 ideas?
    ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C1BEB7.35960000-- From cstephens@infinet-is.com Wed Feb 27 13:56:54 2002 From: cstephens@infinet-is.com (Charles Stephens) Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 06:56:54 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fw: Do these fruit trees need trunk-wrap Message-ID: <005201c1bf96$9e497b60$9b86dfd1@default> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_004F_01C1BF5B.F1107000 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Charles Stephens=20 To: mmb@storyteller.net ; Linda Guy=20 Cc: arid_gardener-request@Ag.Arizona.Edu=20 Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2002 6:34 AM Subject: Re: Do these fruit trees need trunk-wrap The last par. on p. 3 of publication 8101 Deciduous Fruit Trees for Up = to 3,500' " calls for whitewash or white water-based paint on any = exposed bark of newly planted deciduous fruit trees. Charlie Stephens Master Gardener Phoenix, AZ ------=_NextPart_000_004F_01C1BF5B.F1107000 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
     
    ----- Original Message -----=20
    From: Charles=20 Stephens
    To: mmb@storyteller.net ; Linda = Guy
    Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2002 6:34 AM
    Subject: Re: Do these fruit trees need = trunk-wrap

    The last par. on p. 3 of publication = 8101=20 Deciduous Fruit Trees for Up to 3,500' " calls for whitewash or = white=20 water-based paint on any exposed bark of newly planted deciduous fruit=20 trees.
     
    Charlie Stephens
    Master = Gardener
    Phoenix,=20 AZ
    ------=_NextPart_000_004F_01C1BF5B.F1107000-- From esackin@goucher.edu Wed Feb 27 14:55:12 2002 From: esackin@goucher.edu (Sackin, Erica) Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 09:55:12 -0500 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Help for a dying 'lucky bamboo' Message-ID: <0345590FEC321047917FA0BC6D292EB2A7255B@post.goucher.edu> I bought my lucky bamboo plant, typical three stalks in water and rocks, about nine months ago, and it was very healthy, until I left it under the care of a friend over the month of January. When I came back, most of the leaves on the bottom parts of the stem had turned yellow and were all dried up. I took it home and tried to bring it back to life, but it seems to just get worse and worse. Of the three pieces of bamboo, the smallest one is fine and healthy in the original stalk, and the bottom of the stem that sprouted from it is healthy, but the leaves and the new growth at the top of the stalk have turned almost completely yellow and thin and dried up. For the medium piece, the bottom of the original stalk is fine, but the top of it has started to turn yellow, and the stem that sprouted from it has turned yellow and soft (almoot bendable) all the way up to a few leaves down from the new growth. The tallest stalk is a mess as well. Like the others, the bottom of the original stalk is healthy, but the only way I can think of describing the top half of the original stalk is that its skin has become yellow and wrinled (but the stalk itself is still strong). The bottom leaves on the stem that sprouted have mostly yellow and dried up, and I removed most of them. Some of the upper leaves have started to turn yellow on the tips and edges, but so far the stem itself is only yellow at its base. Is there anything I can do for it? It may have been the water, my friend lives in the city where the water supply is probably not as clean as the suburbs where I live. It also probably has gotten more exposure to cold, as it may have been near an open window (of course I think it may have also been placed near a heater) My friend thought that maybe the roots had grown too big for the small pot it came in. I know that he also didn't water it as much as he should have, and when I picked it up it, the rocks were almost completely dried up. Is there any way to salvage it, and make sure this doesn't happen again? Thanks a lot, Erica in Baltimore From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Feb 27 15:57:59 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 08:57:59 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Do these fruit trees need trunk-wrap References: <005201c1bf96$9e497b60$9b86dfd1@default> Message-ID: <3C7D0206.8D095C53@qwest.net> --------------063273D2F54099D16BB67604 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Thanks for the input Charles! I love how the work on the server helps me learn [or relearn] techniques all the time. I sometimes forget to go back to the older pubs which are no longer available to the general public and indeed you are correct that the recommendation to wrap the trunks on young fruit trees is there. However, I did indeed successfully grow fruit [peaches in particular] on newly planted trees in a southern exposure without trunk wrap. Beginner's luck? I find it odd that the MG Manual doesn't contain this info, although I did locate a general note to watch for fruit, limb or trunk sunburn to the SW. What's your personal experience? And how long do you keep the trunks wrapped, until the canopy is broad enough to shade it? Linda Guy, MG Charles Stephens wrote: > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Charles Stephens > To: mmb@storyteller.net ; Linda GuyCc: > arid_gardener-request@Ag.Arizona.EduSent: Wednesday, February 27, 2002 > 6:34 AMSubject: Re: Do these fruit trees need trunk-wrap > The last par. on p. 3 of publication 8101 Deciduous Fruit Trees for > Up to 3,500' " calls for whitewash or white water-based paint on any > exposed bark of newly planted deciduous fruit trees. Charlie Stephens > Master Gardener > Phoenix, AZ --------------063273D2F54099D16BB67604 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Thanks for the input Charles! I love how the work on the server helps me learn [or relearn] techniques all the time.

    I sometimes forget to go back to the older pubs which are no longer available to the general public and indeed you are correct that the recommendation to wrap the trunks on young fruit trees is there. However, I did indeed successfully grow fruit [peaches in particular] on newly planted trees in a southern exposure without trunk wrap. Beginner's luck? I find it odd that the MG Manual doesn't contain this info, although I did locate a general note to watch for fruit, limb or trunk sunburn to the SW. What's your personal experience? And how long do you keep the trunks wrapped, until the canopy is broad enough to shade it?

    Linda Guy, MG

    Charles Stephens wrote:

     
    ----- Original Message ----- To: mmb@storyteller.net ; Linda GuyCc: arid_gardener-request@Ag.Arizona.EduSent: Wednesday, February 27, 2002 6:34 AMSubject: Re: Do these fruit trees need trunk-wrap
     The last par. on p. 3 of publication 8101 Deciduous Fruit Trees for Up to 3,500' " calls for whitewash or white water-based paint on any exposed bark of newly planted deciduous fruit trees. Charlie Stephens
    Master Gardener
    Phoenix, AZ
    --------------063273D2F54099D16BB67604-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Feb 27 16:01:13 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 09:01:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] The case of the Siamese Twin Apple Tree References: Message-ID: <3C7D02C9.72EA99C@qwest.net> --------------1F019F43F41899228E400754 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Just a wild guess, but is the section that blooms first somehow more exposed to heat and light [ie western exposure, warming wall] that might cause it to break dormancy first? If it blooms and leafs out quickly enough might it even continue to shade the other section to keep it cooler/less sunny longer? Linda Guy, MG Jackee De Alejandro wrote: > Here another noodle scratcher for you guys. My neighbor has an apple > tree in her front yard. It is only about 10 ft tall and has two main > trucks coming from the ground. Each truck is very distinct, the trunks > only connect at the very bottom, but they do connect. Each trunk looks > like it's own tree, almost like the letter V, but a little > straighter. Now get this, the trunk on the left is blooming...leaves, > flowers, the whole shebang, BUT the trunk on the right is still > dormant, just bare branches. My neighbor tells me that the left trunk > bears fruit first with the right trunk bearing later. Almost as if > they were two separate trees! She wanted me to ask you guys about the > tree (I kinda tell her I have some master gardening friends). She > didn't plant the tree. Like all of us military folk...it was there > when we moved in. The only thing I could think of was that one of the > trunks is an overgrown sucker that is root stock. What do you > think?Jackee at Luke --------------1F019F43F41899228E400754 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Just a wild guess, but is the section that blooms first somehow more exposed to heat and light [ie western exposure, warming wall] that might cause it to break dormancy first? If it blooms and leafs out quickly enough might it even continue to shade the other section to keep it cooler/less sunny longer?

    Linda Guy, MG

    Jackee De Alejandro wrote:

     Here another noodle scratcher for you guys. My neighbor has an apple tree in her front yard. It is only about 10 ft tall and has two main trucks coming from the ground. Each truck is very distinct, the trunks only connect at the very bottom, but they do connect. Each trunk looks like it's own tree, almost like the letter V, but a little straighter. Now get this, the trunk on the left is blooming...leaves, flowers, the whole shebang, BUT the trunk on the right is still dormant, just bare branches. My neighbor tells me that the left trunk bears fruit first with the right trunk bearing later. Almost as if they were two separate trees! She wanted me to ask you guys about the tree (I kinda tell her I have some master gardening friends). She didn't plant the tree. Like all of us military folk...it was there when we moved in. The only thing I could think of was that one of the trunks is an overgrown sucker that is root stock. What do you think?Jackee at Luke
    --------------1F019F43F41899228E400754-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Feb 27 16:05:50 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 09:05:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fertilizer Burn References: <200202211820.g1LIKgx16072@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C7D03DE.5C18233C@qwest.net> It sounds like a misapplication of the fertilizer, did you reread the directions to see where you may have erred? Also, I suggest reviewing the portion of the Master Gardener Manual that discusses the application of fertilizer at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/soils/applying.html#applying I would suggest a full flushing of the root zone to see if you can move the fertilizer salts below the roots. Just set out a hose and deeply water to see if this can help restore your plant. Linda Guy, MG jhendry@azleg.state.az.us wrote: > I recently purchased a bag of fertilizer/insecticide from Home Depot. Unfortunately I do not know the name, nor do they have any left in the store, so that I could check on the ingredients. It was in pellet form and to course to go through a hand spreader. I put the application on by hand and some of this got on the shrubs. I watered this throughly after application, however, in two days the shrubs are burned to a crisp. It burned the lantana and the magnolia bushes. They are so burnt it almost looks like they were in a fire. Most of the lawn is greener and thicker, however, there are also some burnt spots. What should I do? Could the Magnolia be saved if I had it cut down almost to the ground? I did not put any one a cactus I had in a 5 gallon container but it has brown blisters all over it. The day after I applied this it was terribly windy could this have contributed to this fertilizer being scattered. I don't know where to start on this mess. I have asked HO! > me Depot to find out what this was so I could find out the ingredients. Any help you can give will be appreciated. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From melissa__kurtz@hotmail.com Wed Feb 27 18:57:15 2002 From: melissa__kurtz@hotmail.com (melissa__kurtz@hotmail.com) Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 11:57:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202271857.g1RIvBx16388@Ag.arizona.edu> i would like to buy parasite eating wasps for my stable does anyone know where i can do so? thank you -Melissa the horses will be thankful too! From melissa__kurtz@hotmail.com Wed Feb 27 18:58:03 2002 From: melissa__kurtz@hotmail.com (melissa__kurtz@hotmail.com) Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 11:58:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202271858.g1RIw3x16653@Ag.arizona.edu> i would like to buy parasite eating wasps {to control flies}for my stable does anyone know where i can do so? thank you -Melissa the horses will be thankful too! From Moneses@aol.com Wed Feb 27 19:27:25 2002 From: Moneses@aol.com (Moneses@aol.com) Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 14:27:25 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Questions Message-ID: <164.9844c60.29ae8d1d@aol.com> --part1_164.9844c60.29ae8d1d_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dear Cactus Jack, I took your course on drip irrigation at the Botanical garden in the fall. We are now ready to embark on our landscaping project. I had a couple of questions. ***When putting in a sod lawn, you had said to till in 2-3 inches of mulch and 1 inch of something else. What was the something else? And where can I get it in bulk? We're putting in about 2,200 square feet of lawn. ***When planting desert trees with the water drips underground, how do you stop the tree roots from clogging the drip tubes? Thank you and I really enjoyed taking your course. Lisa Bol --part1_164.9844c60.29ae8d1d_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dear Cactus Jack,
    I took your course on drip irrigation at the Botanical garden in the fall.
    We are now ready to embark on our  landscaping project.
    I had a couple of questions.
    ***When putting in a sod lawn, you had said to till in 2-3 inches of mulch and 1 inch of something else.  What was the something else?  And where can I get it in bulk?  We're putting in about 2,200 square feet of lawn.
    ***When planting desert trees with the water drips underground, how do you stop the tree roots from clogging the drip tubes?
    Thank you and I really enjoyed taking your course.
    Lisa Bol     --part1_164.9844c60.29ae8d1d_boundary-- From sb@asmc.phxcoxmail.com Wed Feb 27 20:29:26 2002 From: sb@asmc.phxcoxmail.com (sb@asmc.phxcoxmail.com) Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 13:29:26 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202272029.g1RKTQx08114@Ag.arizona.edu> Is there a perrenial grass that will grow year round in Phoenix? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Feb 27 21:33:17 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 21:33:17 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] controlling stable flies Message-ID: One source is ARBICO (Arizona Biological Control) www.arbico.com Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: melissa__kurtz@hotmail.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 11:58:03 -0700 (MST) > >i would like to buy parasite eating wasps {to control flies}for my stable >does anyone know where i can do so? thank you -Melissa >the horses will be thankful too! > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From vindil@prodigy.net Wed Feb 27 22:25:20 2002 From: vindil@prodigy.net (vindil@prodigy.net) Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 15:25:20 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202272225.g1RMPKx04410@Ag.arizona.edu> Ref: Citrus Trees - lemon, orange, grapefruit Depth of roots?? Are the roots likely to invade sanitary lines or any type of plumbing?? Thanks for your time.. Vince From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Feb 27 22:52:13 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 17:52:13 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palm Care Message-ID: <156.9a38ade.29aebd1d@aol.com> --part1_156.9a38ade.29aebd1d_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Queen palms should be fertilized three to four times a year with a special palm fertilizer starting in Feb or March. For information on watering and care check out these sites: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_156.9a38ade.29aebd1d_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Queen palms should be fertilized three to four times a year with a special palm fertilizer starting in Feb or March. For information on watering and care check out these sites:   http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf
    http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

    Good luck.

    Rod McKusick
    Master Gardener     --part1_156.9a38ade.29aebd1d_boundary-- From Judy.Hall@asu.edu Wed Feb 27 23:37:45 2002 From: Judy.Hall@asu.edu (Judy Hall) Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 16:37:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Name of shrub In-Reply-To: <001701c1bef2$61e5d5a0$63cc56d1@oemcomputer> References: <001701c1bef2$61e5d5a0$63cc56d1@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <1014853065.3c7d6dc9e7b99@webmail.asu.edu> Renea: It sounds like Justicia californica to me. Chuparosa can have yellow tubular flowers, as well as red ones. They can bloom during the cool season, November to March. Justicia californica has grey-green roundish to deltoid leaves. Judy Quoting Renea Ford : > I thought one of my shrubs was a Justicia californica (Chuparosa) until > it blossomed narrow, inch-long, medium yellow, tubular flowers this > week. The shrub is soft and rubbery to the touch, grey-green, and > despite its flexibility, the stems snap off relatively easily. It is > evergreen and the leaves are small and deltoid-shaped. Any ideas? > Judy G. Hall Department of Plant Biology Arizona State University Judy.Hall@asu.edu From TMMills@aol.com Thu Feb 28 00:41:01 2002 From: TMMills@aol.com (TMMills@aol.com) Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 19:41:01 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] NEED HELP. Message-ID: <97.23c48a51.29aed69d@aol.com> --part1_97.23c48a51.29aed69d_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit PLEASE CANCEL MY SUBSCRIPTION TO YOUR SERVICE. I HAVE MOVED OUT OF STATE. THANKS. tmmills@aol.com --part1_97.23c48a51.29aed69d_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit PLEASE CANCEL MY SUBSCRIPTION TO YOUR SERVICE.  I HAVE MOVED OUT OF STATE.  THANKS.   tmmills@aol.com --part1_97.23c48a51.29aed69d_boundary-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Feb 28 00:54:35 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 00:54:35 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus roots Message-ID: Mature citrus roots extend 2 to 3 feet down and well beyond the dripline of the tree. I have never heard of problems with citrus roots around water lines, sewer lines, etc. No trees should not be planted in the leech field for a septic system, however. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: vindil@prodigy.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 15:25:20 -0700 (MST) > >Ref: Citrus Trees - lemon, orange, grapefruit > >Depth of roots?? > >Are the roots likely to invade sanitary lines >or any type of plumbing?? > >Thanks for your time.. > >Vince > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From keiblerpop@webtv.net Thu Feb 28 03:06:09 2002 From: keiblerpop@webtv.net (keiblerpop@webtv.net) Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 20:06:09 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202280306.g1S369x21802@Ag.arizona.edu> I just moved into Yuma Az a few months ago--never here before.Half of the people leave in the summer ad I told some that I would water their trees and plants while they were gone. I need your help about how often and how much water I should give them--trees and plants with city water. Thank you Ed k From secretgarden49@msn.com Thu Feb 28 03:30:56 2002 From: secretgarden49@msn.com (secretgarden49@msn.com) Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 20:30:56 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202280330.g1S3Uux25127@Ag.arizona.edu> I have an arbovitae that is about 10 feet. It got horrific frost damage this winter and is looking terrible, discolored and dry, but I think it is still alive. Is there anything I should do to help it out or just let it be? Thank you! You guys are the greatest! From BruceAFord@peoplepc.com Thu Feb 28 17:58:59 2002 From: BruceAFord@peoplepc.com (BruceAFord@peoplepc.com) Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 10:58:59 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202281758.g1SHwxx10058@Ag.arizona.edu> Dear Sirs I have some dying wax myrtle trees I suspect have been hurt by weed killer use nearby. Is there a way to test for poision? Who or where can they test leaves or twigs? Bruce From markpurcell4627@msn.com Thu Feb 28 18:00:27 2002 From: markpurcell4627@msn.com (markpurcell4627@msn.com) Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 11:00:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202281800.g1SI0Rx10718@Ag.arizona.edu> We have three "Queen Palms" located in our back yrd btwn our pool and our cement block wall. One palm is doing well, but the other two seem to be dying. The fronds are turning brown and any new growth is twisted and shriveled. I've tried watering, not watering, fertalizing, and not doing anything. How can I help my palms - or can I? Two landscape men have looked at them and one sprayed for fungus while the other man fertalized. There has been no change in the condition of the palms and I'm hesitant to call someone else. Any ideas? Thanks for any help you can give. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Feb 28 23:10:16 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 18:10:16 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Trees and shrubs in Yuma, watering Message-ID: --part1_f5.17cc980b.29b012d8_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ed, The chapter in the Master Gardener Manual on irrigation should be helpful and is available on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html For more info call your Yuma County Cooperative Extension listed in your phone book under county guvernment. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_f5.17cc980b.29b012d8_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ed,

    The chapter in the Master Gardener Manual on irrigation should be helpful and is available on line at:  http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html
    For more info call your Yuma County Cooperative Extension listed in your phone book under county guvernment.

    Good luck.

    Rod McKusick
    Master Gardener

    --part1_f5.17cc980b.29b012d8_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Feb 28 23:24:50 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 18:24:50 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Herbicide damage Message-ID: <45.1393eaa2.29b01642@aol.com> --part1_45.1393eaa2.29b01642_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bruce, A soils lab can test for chemicals in the soil but it is expensive. The best chance of saving the shrubs is to deep flush with water. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_45.1393eaa2.29b01642_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bruce,

    A soils lab can test for chemicals in the soil but it is expensive. The best chance of saving the shrubs is to deep flush with water.

    Good luck.

    Rod McKusick
    Master Gardener     --part1_45.1393eaa2.29b01642_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Feb 28 23:38:39 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 18:38:39 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palms sick Message-ID: <12e.d450306.29b0197f@aol.com> --part1_12e.d450306.29b0197f_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The condition of your queen palms that you describe is serious and not easily treated by the homeowner. I suggest that you contact a Certified Arborist for an appraisal and course of treatment. It will take several months before you see much change after treatment. The following site has a bulletin on the care of palm trees: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf This site lists Certified Arborists in the area : http://www2.champaign.isa-arbor.com/arborists/arborist.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_12e.d450306.29b0197f_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The condition of your queen palms that you describe is serious and not easily treated by the homeowner. I suggest that you contact a Certified Arborist for an appraisal and course of treatment. It will take several months before you see much change after treatment.
    The following site has a bulletin on the care of palm trees: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf

    This site lists Certified Arborists in the area :  http://www2.champaign.isa-arbor.com/arborists/arborist.html

    Good luck.

    Rod McKusick
    Master Gardener and Arborist     --part1_12e.d450306.29b0197f_boundary-- From cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu Fri Feb 1 17:10:08 2002 From: cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu (Carol Noyes) Date: Fri, 01 Feb 2002 10:10:08 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] All About Trees Conference Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020201100441.00ab3990@ag.arizona.edu> The 2nd Annual "All About Trees" Conference will be held on June 7, 2002 at the Cliff Castle Casino in Cottonwood Arizona. This Conference is presented by the Arizona Community Tree Council. Early registration (before May 17, 2002) ACTC Members: $50 Non-Members: $60 After May 17, 2002 ACTC Members: $65 Non-Members: $75 Group rate: register 3 people from your company and the 4th goes free. Mail registrations to ACTC, 1616 W. Adams, Phoenix, AZ 85007 For more information call 602-542-6191. From desertlori@home.com Fri Feb 1 22:40:21 2002 From: desertlori@home.com (desertlori@home.com) Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2002 15:40:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202012240.g11MeLD02098@Ag.arizona.edu> I've been reading about zoysia grass. I have a front yard with nothing but some scattered winter grass and weeds and lots of bare dirt. It was treated with Roundup this summer in anticipation of a rock yard, but plans have changed. I live near Squaw Peak in Phoenix. First, will zoysia work in this area? And, how do I prepare the soil for planting? Or is it possible to do the spray on seed or turf squares? There is an existing irrigation system. Any other suggestions? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Feb 2 15:20:41 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 02 Feb 2002 15:20:41 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Zoysia Grass Message-ID: >From: desertlori@home.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2002 15:40:21 -0700 (MST) > >I've been reading about zoysia grass. I have a front yard with nothing but >some scattered winter grass and weeds and lots of bare dirt. It was >treated with Roundup this summer in anticipation of a rock yard, but plans >have changed. I live near Squaw Peak in Phoenix. First, will zoysia work >in this area? And, how do I prepare the soil for planting? Or is it >possible to do the spray on seed or turf squares? There is an existing >irrigation system. Any other suggestions? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Here is information from Master GArdener Linda Guy: The Master Gardener Manual has a section on turf, including planting and maintenance schedules for zoysia grass. See it at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html However, in our lawn publication MC18, zoysia is listed as only moderately well adaprted to our area. They tend to be yellowish-green as a result of our caliche soil under hot weather stress. They tolerate partial shade, though not as well as a St. Augustine option. It is a slow grower, meaning less mowing and dethatching. It is more susceptible to insect or disease problems, and cannot be overseeded with rye in the winter, as one can with bermuda lawns. It is more cold tolerant, however, meaning that the lawn will have a slightly longer growing season. Our lawn pubs are listed at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#lawn They are not available online, but you can order them [same page] or view them in the reference section of your library (Section 635 - Home Horticulture pubilcations). ------------------------- ================== Following is an excerpt from Mike Hills' response to this same question on this list from 2 years ago. Refer to http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/arid_gardener/1605.html for the complete text. -Olin ==================== Re: Is Amazoy Zoysia Grass suitable to the Low Desert? By Mike Hills (mhills_sro@email.msn.com) Wed, 13 May 1998 17:33:03 -0700 "Sorry, but not really. Zoysia is only moderately adapted to use in the southwestern deserts. Actually prefers more acidic soil and water conditions than our typically alkaline pH. Plugs seem to do the poorest job, even though the advertisements would have you believe otherwise. These are being produced usually in the SE USA where soil, water and temperature are usually very different than ours. The plugs are also usually very small, with weak roots and arrive in poor stressed out condition. Sticking them into our hot dry conditions usually wipes out half or so. Even with similar soil and water conditions, such as a homeowner in the SE purchasing these same plugs, their small size plus the ad claims and plant spacing recommendations, plus the slow horizontal growth means that the plugs generally take 2 years to fill in a lawn area. In the meantime, the turf owner fights a continual battle with weeds, including Bermuda which want to move into the open, bare nicely prepared soil area. Additionally, the plugs end up creating a bumpy, hilly turf surface since the initial plug area is higher than the surrounding areas filled in by creeping stolons. RECOMMENDATION - Do Not Buy Any Of These Zoysia Plugs from catalogs or Weekend Newspaper Supplements. Zoysiagrass is only somewhat adapted out here, and you will have to constantly monitor soil pH and alter with additions of soil sulphur, iron, gypsum, etc. to fight the alkalinity and the salts. If you really want to try zoysia grass, try planting zoysia seed instead. The initial plant population is higher from direct seeding, the plants develop their root system directly in the turf area soil base, using our local water and weed encroachment is reduced. The common zoysiagrass from seed is coarser textured, but is much more adapted to borderline conditions like the SW USA. You will still need to add soil sulphur, iron, etc. but will be more successful than with the plugged types of zoysia. Additionally, zoysias are more prone to thatch buildup in our growing conditions, yet they do not tolerate much de-thatching activity - de-thatching actually harms the turf. The built up thatch makes the turf area more prone to insect and fungal disease problems, as well as creating problems with water penetration at the soil surface. Also, zoysia will go dormant and brown in winter usually before Bermuda and come back green in spring after Bermuda - it will not tolerate overseeding with ryegrass as this damages the zoysia crowns. Thus you can plan on a brown zoysia lawn for 4-6 months each year during winter. ... _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From djhillis@qwest.net Sat Feb 2 18:17:22 2002 From: djhillis@qwest.net (djhillis@qwest.net) Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 11:17:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202021817.g12IHMD22939@Ag.arizona.edu> I have an ornamental grass called Regal Mist. They are the ones that bloom red tips in the fall. On these tips now are small black things and I picked up some and they squished like blood in my fingers. Are they insects, and if so, good or bad? What should I do with them? Thanks. Dennis From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Feb 2 21:10:40 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 02 Feb 2002 21:10:40 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] 'Regal Mist' ornamental grass Message-ID: I have not grown this ornamental grass myself. Here is some information form the web: Muhlenbergia capillaris (Lam.) Trin. Regal MistTM We feel that this ornamental grass shows great promise for many different regions of the country. Native to humid southeastern Texas, this grass has adapted extremely well to the hot, dry conditions of deserts in Arizona and Nevada. In fact, it has performed incredibly well in Las Vegas, which is cursed with poor soils, high winds, high summer temperatures, and cold winters. Regal MistTM is also happy in heavy soils, with ample irrigation. In short, it has worked everywhere it has been tried, so far! It is hardy to at least ?17.8°C (0°F). Regal MistTM has narrow, dark green, glossy leaves. It grows quickly to form a rounded clump to 0.9 m (3 feet) tall and wide. The flower spikes on this grass have attracted a lot of attention... they form misty masses of pink to purple flowers in October and November. We recommend cutting this plant back in early spring to cut off the dead flower spikes and any dormant foliage. --- I've found no information on pests, but your description sounds similar to cochineal scale on prickly pear cactus. could you take a sample to your nearest county Extension office for identification? If they are scale, they are an insect that sucks juices from the plant. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: djhillis@qwest.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 11:17:22 -0700 (MST) > >I have an ornamental grass called Regal Mist. They are the ones that bloom >red tips in the fall. On these tips now are small black things and I picked >up some and they squished like blood in my fingers. Are they insects, and >if so, good or bad? What should I do with them? Thanks. Dennis > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From desertlori@home.com Sun Feb 3 20:55:02 2002 From: desertlori@home.com (desertlori) Date: Sun, 03 Feb 2002 13:55:02 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Zoysia Grass In-Reply-To: Message-ID: WOW! Thanks you guys! I really don't want to work that hard. Maybe I should re-think the rock option. LOL Anyway, I will check out the Master Gardener site and learn more about Bermuda. Thanks again. From maryfergus@aol.com Mon Feb 4 02:16:08 2002 From: maryfergus@aol.com (maryfergus@aol.com) Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2002 19:16:08 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202040216.g142G8D29885@Ag.arizona.edu> Our beautiful (7 ea) ficus (Indian Laurel Fig) look like they were completely killed by the frost that happened last week (got down to about 25) Will they come back? What should be done now? prune them back? fertilize them? They have been in the ground about three years and are about 8 ft tall Help! Thank you, mary From gwright@Ag.arizona.edu Mon Feb 4 13:18:48 2002 From: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu (Glenn C. Wright) Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2002 06:18:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: Re: planting and growing orange trees Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020204061646.031b7118@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_1249906==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Dear MG's: Can you assist this Mr. Champion? Thanks. GCW >To: "RICHARD CHAMPION" >From: "Glenn C. Wright" >Subject: Re: planting and growing orange trees > >At 09:36 AM 2/2/2002 -0700, you wrote: >> >> >>Good morning, >> >>Can you help us ?? >> >>My wife and I live in a mobile home park in Peoria AZ >>Can you tell us how to plant and grow an orange tree (not to big) >>that will yield a sweet orange or can you tell us of a website that has >>instructions on this subject ?? >> >> >>Thank you >>Rick rdcchamp@msn.com > >Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D. >Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist >University of Arizona >Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center >Route 1, Box 40M >Somerton, AZ 85350 >Phone: 928-726-0458 >FAX: 928-726-1363 >e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu --=====================_1249906==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Dear MG's:

    Can you assist this Mr. Champion?

    Thanks.

    GCW

    To: "RICHARD CHAMPION" <rdcchamp@msn.com>
    From: "Glenn C. Wright" <gwright@ag.arizona.edu>
    Subject: Re: planting and growing orange trees

    At 09:36 AM 2/2/2002 -0700, you wrote:
     
     
    Good morning,
     
    Can you help us ??
     
    My wife and I live in a mobile home park in Peoria AZ
    Can you tell us how to plant and grow an orange tree (not to big)
    that will yield a sweet orange   or  can you tell us of a website that has
    instructions on this subject ??
     
     
    Thank you
    Rick     rdcchamp@msn.com

    Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D.
    Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist
    University of Arizona
    Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center
    Route 1, Box 40M
    Somerton, AZ 85350
    Phone: 928-726-0458
    FAX: 928-726-1363
    e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu     --=====================_1249906==_.ALT-- From gwright@Ag.arizona.edu Mon Feb 4 13:23:17 2002 From: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu (Glenn C. Wright) Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2002 06:23:17 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: Re: your assistance Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020204062101.03195d28@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_1518984==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Dear Master Gardeners: Can you assist G. Joines? Thanks. GCW >To: GJoines69@aol.com >From: "Glenn C. Wright" >Subject: Re: your assistance > >At 07:49 PM 2/3/2002 -0500, you wrote: >>Hi, I hope you can point me in the right direction. >> >>I have a dwarf orange and dwarf grapefruit tree in my backyard. I know >>basically nothing about caring for them. Can you advise me about the >>basics? >>A book? web site? >> >>I really want to know about when and how to prune them (shaping them) to >>keep >>them looking nice and producing max fruits. >> >>Water? >>Fertilizing? I also have a lemon tree. Same principle as orange and grapefruit? >>thanks > >Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D. >Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist >University of Arizona >Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center >Route 1, Box 40M >Somerton, AZ 85350 >Phone: 928-726-0458 >FAX: 928-726-1363 >e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu --=====================_1518984==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Dear Master Gardeners:

    Can you assist G. Joines?

    Thanks.

    GCW

    To: GJoines69@aol.com
    From: "Glenn C. Wright" <gwright@ag.arizona.edu>
    Subject: Re: your assistance

    At 07:49 PM 2/3/2002 -0500, you wrote:
    Hi, I hope you can point me in the right direction.

    I have a dwarf orange and dwarf grapefruit tree in my backyard.  I know
    basically nothing about caring for them.  Can you advise me about the basics?
    A book? web site?

    I really want to know about when and how to prune them (shaping them) to keep
    them looking nice and producing max fruits.

    Water?
    Fertilizing?

    I also have a lemon tree.
    Same principle as orange and grapefruit?



    thanks

    Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D.
    Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist
    University of Arizona
    Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center
    Route 1, Box 40M
    Somerton, AZ 85350
    Phone: 928-726-0458
    FAX: 928-726-1363
    e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu     --=====================_1518984==_.ALT-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Feb 4 21:36:15 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 16:36:15 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ficus nitida frosted Message-ID: --part1_f6.160c81e4.299058cf_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Mary, The Ficus nitida is quite frost tender especially for the first year after they are planted. Since yours are three years old hopefully they will be able to make it. Plants for Dry Climates says that they will be damaged at 25 degrees F. Do not do anything to them except water them as they should be watered for this time of year. Wait for two to three months before pruning off the dead growth. If temperatures near 25 degrees are forecast provide a cover and wrap the trunk to protect from the cold. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_f6.160c81e4.299058cf_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Mary,

    The Ficus nitida is quite frost tender especially for the first year after they are planted. Since yours are three years old hopefully they will be able to make it. Plants for Dry Climates says that they will be damaged at 25 degrees F. Do not do anything to them except water them as they should be watered for this time of year. Wait for two to three  months before pruning off the dead growth. If temperatures near 25 degrees are forecast provide a cover and wrap the trunk to protect from the cold.

    Good luck.

    Rod McKusick
    Master Gardener     --part1_f6.160c81e4.299058cf_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Feb 4 21:49:58 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 16:49:58 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: planting and growing orange trees Message-ID: <72.171868d2.29905c06@aol.com> --part1_72.171868d2.29905c06_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Rick, Univ. of Arizona publishes an excellent bulletin titled Citrus trees in the Home Garden which should answer most of your questions about citrus and is available for $1.00 from Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_72.171868d2.29905c06_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Rick,

    Univ. of Arizona publishes an excellent bulletin titled Citrus trees in the Home Garden which should answer most of your questions about citrus and is available for $1.00 from Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040.

    Good luck.

    Rod McKusick
    Master Gardener
    --part1_72.171868d2.29905c06_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Feb 4 21:56:34 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 16:56:34 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus care Message-ID: --part1_f8.163881aa.29905d92_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Univ. of Arizona publishes an excellent bulletin titled Citrus trees in the Home Garden which should answer most of your questions about citrus and is available for $1.00 from Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_f8.163881aa.29905d92_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Univ. of Arizona publishes an excellent bulletin titled Citrus trees in the Home Garden which should answer most of your questions about citrus and is available for $1.00 from Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040.

    Good luck.

    Rod McKusick
    Master Gardener     --part1_f8.163881aa.29905d92_boundary-- From bnewdigate@cox.net Tue Feb 5 02:38:46 2002 From: bnewdigate@cox.net (bnewdigate@cox.net) Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 19:38:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202050238.g152ckD14619@Ag.arizona.edu> when should i first fertilize my queen palms and what should i fertilize with? From gardenguru" Message-ID: <07bf01c1ae4e$fcdb5800$69382ace@ibm22761658747> The Extension Service now has this data sheet available online at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm under Ornamentals. It provides info for queen palms fertilization and care. . AZ1021 Arizona Landscape Palms It is important to use fert. especially formulated for palms available at any nursery., They need the trace minerals as well as Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium especially Magnesium GG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, February 04, 2002 7:38 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > when should i first fertilize my queen palms and what should i fertilize with? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From gardenguru" Message-ID: <07ce01c1ae50$743c2540$69382ace@ibm22761658747> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_07C9_01C1AE15.848D8D20 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Glenn, there are several data sheet online thru the Extension Service at = this site under " Citrus ". That can provide you with assistance with = your citrus trees. There are many varieties of sweet oranges that do = very well in our climate.=20 http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm a.. AZ1001 Low Desert Citrus Varieties=20 a.. AZ1146 Budding Citrus Trees=20 a.. AZ1151 Irrigating Citrus Trees=20 a.. AZ1154 Diseases of Citrus in Arizona=20 The Sheet below are avail by mail for $1 from the Ext. Office.=20 a.. MC8 Recovery of Neglected Citrus Trees=20 a.. MC17 Irrigation Needs of Citrus=20 a.. MC65 Quality Citrus Trees=20 a.. MC91 Fertilizing Citrus Trees=20 a.. Q191 Phytophthora Foot Rot of Citrus=20 a.. 8670 Fertilizing Citrus Trees in Arizona=20 =20 In Phoenix Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Hope this helps GG ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Glenn C. Wright=20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Monday, February 04, 2002 6:18 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: Re: planting and growing orange trees Dear MG's: Can you assist this Mr. Champion? Thanks. GCW To: "RICHARD CHAMPION" From: "Glenn C. Wright" Subject: Re: planting and growing orange trees At 09:36 AM 2/2/2002 -0700, you wrote: =20 Good morning, =20 Can you help us ?? =20 My wife and I live in a mobile home park in Peoria AZ Can you tell us how to plant and grow an orange tree (not to big) that will yield a sweet orange or can you tell us of a website = that has instructions on this subject ?? =20 =20 Thank you Rick rdcchamp@msn.com=20 Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D. Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist University of Arizona Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center Route 1, Box 40M Somerton, AZ 85350 Phone: 928-726-0458 FAX: 928-726-1363 e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu=20 ------=_NextPart_000_07C9_01C1AE15.848D8D20 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

    Glenn, there are several data sheet online thru = the=20 Extension Service at this site under " Citrus ". That can provide you = with=20 assistance with your citrus trees. There are many varieties of sweet = oranges=20 that do very well in our climate.
     
    http://= ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm
     
    The Sheet below are avail by mail for $1 from = the Ext.=20 Office.
  • MC8 Recovery of Neglected Citrus Trees=20
  • MC17 Irrigation Needs of Citrus=20
  • MC65 Quality Citrus Trees=20
  • MC91 Fertilizing Citrus Trees=20
  • Q191 Phytophthora Foot Rot of Citrus=20
  • 8670 Fertilizing Citrus Trees in Arizona
    •  
     

    In = Phoenix

    Maricopa County = Cooperative=20 Extension

    4341 E. Broadway=20 Road

    Phoenix,=20 AZ 85040
    Hope=20 this helps
    GG
    ----- Original Message -----
    From:=20 Glenn C.=20 Wright
    Sent: Monday, February 04, 2002 = 6:18=20 AM
    Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: = Re:=20 planting and growing orange trees

    Dear MG's:

    Can = you assist=20 this Mr. Champion?

    Thanks.

    GCW
    To: = "RICHARD CHAMPION"=20 <rdcchamp@msn.com>
    From:=20 "Glenn C. Wright" <gwright@ag.arizona.edu>
    = Subject:=20 Re: planting and growing orange trees

    At 09:36 AM 2/2/2002 = -0700, you=20 wrote:

     
    Good=20 morning,
     
    Can you help us ??
     
    My wife and = I live=20 in a mobile home park in Peoria AZ
    Can you tell us how to plant = and=20 grow an orange tree (not to big)
    that will yield a sweet=20 orange   or  can you tell us of a website that=20 has
    instructions on this subject = ??
     
     
    Thank=20 you
    Rick     rdcchamp@msn.com=20

    Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D.
    Associate Research Scientist = and=20 Citrus Specialist
    University of Arizona
    Yuma Mesa Agriculture=20 Center
    Route 1, Box 40M
    Somerton, AZ 85350
    Phone:=20 928-726-0458
    FAX: 928-726-1363
    e-mail: = gwright@ag.arizona.edu    =20

    ------=_NextPart_000_07C9_01C1AE15.848D8D20-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Feb 5 14:22:19 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2002 14:22:19 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palms, fertlizing Message-ID: Fertilize palms for the first time in April after temperatures have warmed and the palms are actively growing again. Use a palm fertilizer to provide the micronutrients palms need (typically a fertilizer of 9-4-9 plus minors). Queen palms are not the best-adapted to our deserts and will require regular irrigation and fertilizing. They need good drainage and deep soils (2 feet or so). For more information, check this publication: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: bnewdigate@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 19:38:46 -0700 (MST) > >when should i first fertilize my queen palms and what should i fertilize >with? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 5 14:40:51 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2002 07:40:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pest ID - Regal Mist References: <200202021817.g12IHMD22939@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C5FEEF3.A630728D@qwest.net> I believe that you have a form of aphid which come in different colors. Check out the MG Manual for help in identification and management. http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/entomology/sap.html#sap This is the time of year that they start appearing. Linda Guy, MG djhillis@qwest.net wrote: > I have an ornamental grass called Regal Mist. They are the ones that bloom red tips in the fall. On these tips now are small black things and I picked up some and they squished like blood in my fingers. Are they insects, and if so, good or bad? What should I do with them? Thanks. Dennis > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From clemmirk@aol.com Tue Feb 5 15:33:19 2002 From: clemmirk@aol.com (clemmirk@aol.com) Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 08:33:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202051533.g15FXJD09550@Ag.arizona.edu> I have an Organ Pipe Cactus that is yellowing and appears deseased. There are, however, some healthy looking green stalks, that I have removed and saved. How do I transplant these? Will they grow, and do I need to water them in the beginning? From gwright@Ag.arizona.edu Tue Feb 5 16:43:58 2002 From: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu (Glenn C. Wright) Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2002 09:43:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: Citrus tree Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020205094222.03187860@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_99960281==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Dear Master Gardeners: Can you assist this lady? Thanks, GCW >From: MASTennis@aol.com >Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 23:25:03 EST >Subject: Citrus tree >To: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu >X-Mailer: AOL 6.0 for Windows US sub 10556 > >I have a navel orange tree (dwarf) that has been dropping its leaves. It >started in Nov. and then new leaves came back and now they are dropping in >large quantities. My oranges were very small and some were split and on >the ground. What can I do? > >Thank you, Margie Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D. Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist University of Arizona Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center Route 1, Box 40M Somerton, AZ 85350 Phone: 928-726-0458 FAX: 928-726-1363 e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu --=====================_99960281==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Dear Master Gardeners:

    Can you assist this lady?

    Thanks,

    GCW

    From: MASTennis@aol.com
    Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 23:25:03 EST
    Subject: Citrus tree
    To: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu
    X-Mailer: AOL 6.0 for Windows US sub 10556

    I have a navel orange tree (dwarf) that has been dropping its leaves.  It started in Nov. and then new leaves came back and now they are dropping in large quantities.  My oranges were very small and some were split and on the ground.  What can I do?  

    Thank you,  Margie

    Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D.
    Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist
    University of Arizona
    Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center
    Route 1, Box 40M
    Somerton, AZ 85350
    Phone: 928-726-0458
    FAX: 928-726-1363
    e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu     --=====================_99960281==_.ALT-- From ThiedingM@aol.com Tue Feb 5 17:25:03 2002 From: ThiedingM@aol.com (ThiedingM@aol.com) Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 10:25:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202051725.g15HP3D06276@Ag.arizona.edu> Do trailing roses get pruned back the same as all other types of rose bushes? If yes, when is the best time to prune back? From Jonathan Kandell" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C1AE3A.BFC54FC0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Interesting article on irrigation practises in old and new Egypt. http://journeytoforever.org/farm_library/Wrench_Recon/Wrench_Recon_15.html ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C1AE3A.BFC54FC0 Content-Type: application/octet-stream; name="Wrench - Reconstruction by Way of the Soil - Ch15.url" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="Wrench - Reconstruction by Way of the Soil - Ch15.url" [DEFAULT] BASEURL=3Dhttp://journeytoforever.org/farm_library/Wrench_Recon/Wrench_Re= con_15.html [InternetShortcut] URL=3Dhttp://journeytoforever.org/farm_library/Wrench_Recon/Wrench_Recon_= 15.html Modified=3D007AB45D75AEC10170 ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C1AE3A.BFC54FC0-- From azcovey2@home.com Tue Feb 5 21:36:30 2002 From: azcovey2@home.com (azcovey2@home.com) Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 14:36:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202052136.g15LaUD09015@Ag.arizona.edu> I have an atrium that is open on top and 6 x 6 and fully enclosed. It is 90% shaded. I have a large container that I am hoping to either plant a good size organ pipe style cactus which would be alone or a variety of succulents, an agave being the main plant along with small ones at the bottom. Is this enough sun for either of these plantings or do you have other suggestions. It needs something at least 3' high or dramatic. Please advise From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Feb 5 22:32:09 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2002 22:32:09 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] cactus, transplanting Message-ID: For information on transplanting cactus, go to: http://pubs1.cals.arizona.edu/search/srch.cfm and search for 'ocotillo' The online document will give you details for planting the healthy stems. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: clemmirk@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 08:33:19 -0700 (MST) > >I have an Organ Pipe Cactus that is yellowing and appears deseased. There >are, however, some healthy looking green stalks, that I have removed and >saved. How do I transplant these? Will they grow, and do I need to water >them in the beginning? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From martypock@vtc.net Tue Feb 5 22:37:45 2002 From: martypock@vtc.net (martypock@vtc.net) Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 15:37:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202052237.g15MbjD24568@Ag.arizona.edu> What vegetable plants besides tomatoes and potatoes are in the nightshade family? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Feb 5 23:19:34 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2002 23:19:34 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] nightshade family Message-ID: Solanaceae (Nightshade Family) The Solanaceae Family has been highly cultivated over the years - it includes potatoes, tomatoes, eggplant, sweet peppers, chili peppers (but not black pepper), tobacco and petunias. Some plants have great medicinal value, some are quite poisonous. The calyx and corolla are 5-lobed, and usually there are 5 stamens. The fruit is partitioned into 2 or 4 seed-producing divisions, and may be dry or a fleshy berry. Solanales. The Solanaceae are herbs, shrubs, or trees comprising about 85 genera and 2,800 species that are frequently lianous or creeping. The leaves are alternate, usually simple, and lack stipules. Use an internet search engine of your choice and search for "Solanaceae". Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: martypock@vtc.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 15:37:45 -0700 (MST) > >What vegetable plants besides tomatoes and potatoes are in the nightshade >family? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From Jonathan Kandell" I was wondering if anyone had references to any Argentinian retail seed suppliers or vegetable growing web sites? They have a desert somewhat similar to my own and was curious what/how they planted. jk, tucson az From azlady3@aol.com Wed Feb 6 02:28:05 2002 From: azlady3@aol.com (azlady3@aol.com) Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 19:28:05 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202060228.g162S5D04964@Ag.arizona.edu> I need some advice quick! Everytime I put flowers out in my back yard they are consumed by either the bunnies or quail. THey have eated at least $300 worth of flowers and show no signs of stopping. Have you a clue as to what to do? Maybe you could suggest something to plant that they do not like. They have consumed Hopping John, Petunias, geraniums. One more question: I need to know how to keep pidgeons from liking my roof so much. Messy and bully the quail. But they do not eat the plants! Thanks, CC From canyonman@webtv.net Wed Feb 6 05:32:42 2002 From: canyonman@webtv.net (Gary Hellems) Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 22:32:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Battle with Caliche Message-ID: <16563-3C60BFFA-645@storefull-126.iap.bryant.webtv.net> Well, this is probably not the first posting on this subject but was wondering if it is possible to work with caliche when it comes time for planting, whether it be shrubs, trees, wildflowers or for that matter, cacti. I was told that to be successful, one must dig out all caliche in order to plant anything. It was suggested that holes that are dug for plants must be filled in with a rich soil mixture with mulch. I currently live in the north central part of Arizona. Any suggestions or comments? Thank you, Regards, Gary From jennaz31@aol.com Wed Feb 6 13:47:11 2002 From: jennaz31@aol.com (jennaz31@aol.com) Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 06:47:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202061347.g16DlBD15944@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a yellow hibiscus that has black spots all over the leaves. I have two red ones near it and one of those has a few spots, but the other is clear. What is this and what shoud I do? thanks Jenn From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Feb 6 14:35:55 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2002 14:35:55 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hibiscus, spots on leaves Message-ID: >From: jennaz31@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 06:47:11 -0700 (MST) > >I have a yellow hibiscus that has black spots all over the leaves. I have >two red ones near it and one of those has a few spots, but the other is >clear. >What is this and what shoud I do? > >thanks >Jenn > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener The black spots could be a disease, but may just be that your watering and fertilizing practices need to be fine-tuned. You can ask questions about hibiscus at The American Hibiscus Society. http://www.trop-hibiscus.com Linda Drew Master Gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Feb 6 14:43:56 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2002 14:43:56 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Wildlife eating flowers Message-ID: The most effective way to keep quail and rabbits from eating your plants is exclusion -- you will need to construct cage(s) around your garden that keep them out. There are many other options, including planting things that aren't tasty, such as salvia, but this doesn't work if they are very hungry. Go back to our web page and search on "rabbits" for other ideas. Pigeons will usually leave if you do not provide any food for them -- bird feeders, dogs and cats food left outdoors, etc. and exclude them from nesting around your property. Water is also a big draw that will attract them -- dog dish, bird bath, fountain, etc. Again, check our web page for other discussions. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: azlady3@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 19:28:05 -0700 (MST) > >I need some advice quick! >Everytime I put flowers out in my back yard they are consumed by either the >bunnies or quail. >THey have eated at least $300 worth of flowers and show no signs of >stopping. >Have you a clue as to what to do? >Maybe you could suggest something to plant that they do not like. >They have consumed Hopping John, Petunias, geraniums. > >One more question: >I need to know how to keep pidgeons from liking my roof so much. Messy and >bully the quail. But they do not eat the plants! >Thanks, >CC > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From lbradley@sisna.com Wed Feb 6 14:53:50 2002 From: lbradley@sisna.com (Lucy Bradley) Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2002 07:53:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] hands-on workshop on straw bale privacy wall construction Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020206075321.03969628@ag.arizona.edu> >* Pima County Cooperative Extension and Arizona Department of >Environmental Quality are offering a hands-on workshop on straw bale >privacy wall construction with earthen plasters as the first in a series >of workshops about alternative construction techniques. Participants will >receive instruction and actually build a straw bale wall from start to >finish. The free standing wall will be constructed as part of the Our >Yard Recycling Garden Project located at 4210 N. Campbell. The dates are >February 23, 24 and March 2 from 8:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. Registration is >limited to the first 25 people. The fee is $50.00. To register and for >more information, call 626-5161. From paul.a.koning@intel.com Wed Feb 6 17:57:22 2002 From: paul.a.koning@intel.com (paul.a.koning@intel.com) Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 10:57:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202061757.g16HvLD05660@Ag.arizona.edu> I have some questions about the apparent hardiness difference between blue and yellow lantana. I have both planted in my front yard, the yellow lantanas are flourishing, but the blue lantanas are spindly and unattractive. Are there known hardiness issues between that I can act on? For example: blue lantana need more or less water, are more sensitive to soil pH, more susceptible to white fly infestations, … Also does anyone have a suggestion for a full sun, low and colorful ground cover if the blue lantana don’t recover? Is the multicolor lantana any hardier? Background information: · They are planted in different beds; the landscape contractor did no soil amendment before planting. · The yellow are near a red Yucca, barrel cactus and mesquite, the blue near ocotillo and golden barrel cactus. · The yellow lantana may get a hour of morning and evening shade but both yellow and blue get unfiltered get full day sun. · Both are on the same drip irrigation line. · Both get white fly infestations during the summer. · I use an insecticidal soap to try to control the white fly. Should I use something else? Any information would be greatly appreciated! Paul Koning From DorthK@aol.com Wed Feb 6 20:41:16 2002 From: DorthK@aol.com (DorthK@aol.com) Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 13:41:16 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202062041.g16KfGD17577@Ag.arizona.edu> I want to start a huge flower garden in Mesa area. I would like flowers to bloom mostly in May and October. What annuals and Perennials would I choose. Also when should they be planted. I am from MN and know all the right flowers there but not here in AZ. Thanks From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Feb 6 22:32:59 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2002 22:32:59 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] lantana Message-ID: If possible, can you find the botanic names for the two lantanas that were planted? I've taken a guess here on two lantana species. Lantana camara (in shades of pink, yellow, red) is a tough shrub from the tropics/Caribbean. Light: Sun, part shade. Moisture: Well drained soil, drought resistant. Too much water and fertilizer will reduce bloom. Hardiness: USDA Zone 8 - 11, likes both humid and dry heat. Lantana is killed at 28° F, but quickly grows back. Lantana montevidenis (in purplish shades) is a less tough groundcover from South America. Light: Sun or shade, but more flowers when grown in bright sun. Moisture: Likes well drained light soils. Hardiness: USDA Zone 8 - 10; will tolerate some freezing temperatures. Top will die back in temperatures in the mid 20's F; frost gives the leaves a purple tinge; will recover in spring. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: paul.a.koning@intel.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 10:57:22 -0700 (MST) > >I have some questions about the apparent hardiness difference between blue >and yellow lantana. I have both planted in my front yard, the yellow >lantanas are flourishing, but the blue lantanas are spindly and >unattractive. > >Are there known hardiness issues between that I can act on? For example: >blue lantana need more or less water, are more sensitive to soil pH, more >susceptible to white fly infestations, ? > >Also does anyone have a suggestion for a full sun, low and colorful ground >cover if the blue lantana don?t recover? Is the multicolor lantana any >hardier? > >Background information: >· They are planted in different beds; the landscape contractor did no soil >amendment before planting. >· The yellow are near a red Yucca, barrel cactus and mesquite, the blue >near ocotillo and golden barrel cactus. >· The yellow lantana may get a hour of morning and evening shade but both >yellow and blue get unfiltered get full day sun. >· Both are on the same drip irrigation line. >· Both get white fly infestations during the summer. >· I use an insecticidal soap to try to control the white fly. Should I use >something else? > >Any information would be greatly appreciated! > >Paul Koning > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Feb 6 22:51:25 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 17:51:25 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Trailing roses, pruning Message-ID: --part1_ad.17cd61b0.29930d6d_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sorry, but I've not heard of a rose clssification called Trailing Rose. If you are talking about Ramblers, they should not be pruned until after they bloom. If it is climbers that you are asking about and you live in the low desert of Arizona January is the preferred time to prune, however you can still prune now. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian --part1_ad.17cd61b0.29930d6d_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sorry, but I've not heard of a rose clssification called Trailing Rose. If you are talking about Ramblers, they should not be pruned until after they bloom. If it is climbers that you are asking about and you live in the low desert of Arizona January is the preferred time to prune, however you can still prune now.

    Good luck.

    Rod McKusick
    Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian     --part1_ad.17cd61b0.29930d6d_boundary-- From pamela@u.arizona.edu Thu Feb 7 00:16:30 2002 From: pamela@u.arizona.edu (Pamela Tremain Koch) Date: Thu, 07 Feb 2002 08:16:30 +0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] lantana References: Message-ID: <00e901c1af6c$b314d420$42ddd690@computer> This is definately from a non-expert--but I bought some of the Yellow Lantana last year because I read an article that they were the longest blooming of all lantana--they were designed not to set seed as often as other kinds and therefore their bloom period was geatly extended when compared with most others. What you are seeing might be a result of this extended bloom period. Pamela ----- Original Message ----- From: "Linda Drew" To: ; Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2002 6:32 AM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] lantana > > If possible, can you find the botanic names for the two > lantanas that were planted? > > I've taken a guess here on two lantana species. > > Lantana camara (in shades of pink, yellow, red) is a > tough shrub from the tropics/Caribbean. > Light: Sun, part shade. > Moisture: Well drained soil, drought resistant. Too much water and > fertilizer will reduce bloom. > Hardiness: USDA Zone 8 - 11, likes both humid and dry heat. Lantana is > killed at 28° F, but quickly grows back. > > Lantana montevidenis (in purplish shades) is a less > tough groundcover from South America. > Light: Sun or shade, but more flowers when grown in bright sun. > Moisture: Likes well drained light soils. > Hardiness: USDA Zone 8 - 10; will tolerate some freezing temperatures. Top > will die back in temperatures in the mid 20's F; frost gives the leaves a > purple tinge; will recover in spring. > > Linda Drew > Master Gardener > > >From: paul.a.koning@intel.com > >To: > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 10:57:22 -0700 (MST) > > > >I have some questions about the apparent hardiness difference between blue > >and yellow lantana. I have both planted in my front yard, the yellow > >lantanas are flourishing, but the blue lantanas are spindly and > >unattractive. > > > >Are there known hardiness issues between that I can act on? For example: > >blue lantana need more or less water, are more sensitive to soil pH, more > >susceptible to white fly infestations, ? > > > >Also does anyone have a suggestion for a full sun, low and colorful ground > >cover if the blue lantana don?t recover? Is the multicolor lantana any > >hardier? > > > >Background information: > >· They are planted in different beds; the landscape contractor did no soil > >amendment before planting. > >· The yellow are near a red Yucca, barrel cactus and mesquite, the blue > >near ocotillo and golden barrel cactus. > >· The yellow lantana may get a hour of morning and evening shade but both > >yellow and blue get unfiltered get full day sun. > >· Both are on the same drip irrigation line. > >· Both get white fly infestations during the summer. > >· I use an insecticidal soap to try to control the white fly. Should I use > >something else? > > > >Any information would be greatly appreciated! > > > >Paul Koning > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Arid_gardener mailing list > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: > http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From umiller@azdps.com Thu Feb 7 02:20:30 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 19:20:30 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200202060228.g162S5D04964@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Yesiree, those bunnies!!! I had the same problem. Go to this site: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener and type in rabbits and search the archives for previous discussions on this. You may also find something on quail if you type that in. My own solution was to finally put a wall around my yard with gates. (I have a fairly small yard.) Even that didn't do the trick 100% because the bunnies would dig under the gates and get in. So I built little piles of rocks along the bottom of the gates to prevent them from coming in and also still allow water runoff during heavy rains. The wall was a drastic move, but worth it. Now I now have petunias, stock and other flowers back there and I'm happy. I was clearly the loser in my two-year fight with the rabbits. I wish you lots of luck because I know how frustrating this is. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of azlady3@aol.com Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2002 7:28 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I need some advice quick! Everytime I put flowers out in my back yard they are consumed by either the bunnies or quail. THey have eated at least $300 worth of flowers and show no signs of stopping. Have you a clue as to what to do? Maybe you could suggest something to plant that they do not like. They have consumed Hopping John, Petunias, geraniums. One more question: I need to know how to keep pidgeons from liking my roof so much. Messy and bully the quail. But they do not eat the plants! Thanks, CC _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From paul.a.koning@intel.com Thu Feb 7 02:32:58 2002 From: paul.a.koning@intel.com (Koning, Paul A) Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 18:32:58 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] lantana Message-ID: Thank you for the reply. So if the bloom/seed cycle of the blue/purple lantana is the root cause of the lack of robustness, then my pruning off the flower heads before the seed set should help the plant out. Does this sound like a good plan of action? Paul K. -----Original Message----- From: Pamela Tremain Koch [mailto:pamela@u.arizona.edu] Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2002 5:16 PM To: Linda Drew; paul.a.koning@intel.com; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] lantana This is definately from a non-expert--but I bought some of the Yellow Lantana last year because I read an article that they were the longest blooming of all lantana--they were designed not to set seed as often as other kinds and therefore their bloom period was geatly extended when compared with most others. What you are seeing might be a result of this extended bloom period. Pamela ----- Original Message ----- From: "Linda Drew" To: ; Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2002 6:32 AM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] lantana > > If possible, can you find the botanic names for the two > lantanas that were planted? > > I've taken a guess here on two lantana species. > > Lantana camara (in shades of pink, yellow, red) is a > tough shrub from the tropics/Caribbean. > Light: Sun, part shade. > Moisture: Well drained soil, drought resistant. Too much water and > fertilizer will reduce bloom. > Hardiness: USDA Zone 8 - 11, likes both humid and dry heat. Lantana is > killed at 28° F, but quickly grows back. > > Lantana montevidenis (in purplish shades) is a less > tough groundcover from South America. > Light: Sun or shade, but more flowers when grown in bright sun. > Moisture: Likes well drained light soils. > Hardiness: USDA Zone 8 - 10; will tolerate some freezing temperatures. Top > will die back in temperatures in the mid 20's F; frost gives the leaves a > purple tinge; will recover in spring. > > Linda Drew > Master Gardener > > >From: paul.a.koning@intel.com > >To: > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 10:57:22 -0700 (MST) > > > >I have some questions about the apparent hardiness difference between blue > >and yellow lantana. I have both planted in my front yard, the yellow > >lantanas are flourishing, but the blue lantanas are spindly and > >unattractive. > > > >Are there known hardiness issues between that I can act on? For example: > >blue lantana need more or less water, are more sensitive to soil pH, more > >susceptible to white fly infestations, ? > > > >Also does anyone have a suggestion for a full sun, low and colorful ground > >cover if the blue lantana don?t recover? Is the multicolor lantana any > >hardier? > > > >Background information: > >· They are planted in different beds; the landscape contractor did no soil > >amendment before planting. > >· The yellow are near a red Yucca, barrel cactus and mesquite, the blue > >near ocotillo and golden barrel cactus. > >· The yellow lantana may get a hour of morning and evening shade but both > >yellow and blue get unfiltered get full day sun. > >· Both are on the same drip irrigation line. > >· Both get white fly infestations during the summer. > >· I use an insecticidal soap to try to control the white fly. Should I use > >something else? > > > >Any information would be greatly appreciated! > > > >Paul Koning > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Arid_gardener mailing list > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: > http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From ccromell@amug.org Thu Feb 7 05:04:05 2002 From: ccromell@amug.org (Cathy Cromell) Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 22:04:05 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] any favorite heirloom varieties? Message-ID: Does anyone have favorite heirloom vegetables (mostly for flavor) or flowers (mostly for scent) that do well in the low desert? I'd appreciate learning what varieties you've had success with. Thanks. Cathy Cromell From pamela@u.arizona.edu Thu Feb 7 05:11:36 2002 From: pamela@u.arizona.edu (Pamela Tremain Koch) Date: Thu, 07 Feb 2002 13:11:36 +0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] lantana References: Message-ID: <01a301c1af96$004a2960$25e8d690@cityu.edu.hk> Clipping spent flowers always helps prolong bloom, although the lantana has so many flowers this might be quite a task on a regular basis. I must admit to replacing my purple with a yellow one as they do bloom so much longer and better. Here is a link about lantana varieties that confirms my initial thought: http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/cemap/lantanagold/lantana.html Pamela ----- Original Message ----- From: "Koning, Paul A" To: "'Pamela Tremain Koch'" ; "Linda Drew" ; "Koning, Paul A" ; Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2002 10:32 AM Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] lantana > Thank you for the reply. > > So if the bloom/seed cycle of the blue/purple lantana is the root cause of > the lack of robustness, then my pruning off the flower heads before the seed > set should help