From cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu Fri Feb 1 17:10:08 2002 From: cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu (Carol Noyes) Date: Fri, 01 Feb 2002 10:10:08 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] All About Trees Conference Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020201100441.00ab3990@ag.arizona.edu> The 2nd Annual "All About Trees" Conference will be held on June 7, 2002 at the Cliff Castle Casino in Cottonwood Arizona. This Conference is presented by the Arizona Community Tree Council. Early registration (before May 17, 2002) ACTC Members: $50 Non-Members: $60 After May 17, 2002 ACTC Members: $65 Non-Members: $75 Group rate: register 3 people from your company and the 4th goes free. Mail registrations to ACTC, 1616 W. Adams, Phoenix, AZ 85007 For more information call 602-542-6191. From desertlori@home.com Fri Feb 1 22:40:21 2002 From: desertlori@home.com (desertlori@home.com) Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2002 15:40:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202012240.g11MeLD02098@Ag.arizona.edu> I've been reading about zoysia grass. I have a front yard with nothing but some scattered winter grass and weeds and lots of bare dirt. It was treated with Roundup this summer in anticipation of a rock yard, but plans have changed. I live near Squaw Peak in Phoenix. First, will zoysia work in this area? And, how do I prepare the soil for planting? Or is it possible to do the spray on seed or turf squares? There is an existing irrigation system. Any other suggestions? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Feb 2 15:20:41 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 02 Feb 2002 15:20:41 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Zoysia Grass Message-ID: >From: desertlori@home.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2002 15:40:21 -0700 (MST) > >I've been reading about zoysia grass. I have a front yard with nothing but >some scattered winter grass and weeds and lots of bare dirt. It was >treated with Roundup this summer in anticipation of a rock yard, but plans >have changed. I live near Squaw Peak in Phoenix. First, will zoysia work >in this area? And, how do I prepare the soil for planting? Or is it >possible to do the spray on seed or turf squares? There is an existing >irrigation system. Any other suggestions? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Here is information from Master GArdener Linda Guy: The Master Gardener Manual has a section on turf, including planting and maintenance schedules for zoysia grass. See it at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html However, in our lawn publication MC18, zoysia is listed as only moderately well adaprted to our area. They tend to be yellowish-green as a result of our caliche soil under hot weather stress. They tolerate partial shade, though not as well as a St. Augustine option. It is a slow grower, meaning less mowing and dethatching. It is more susceptible to insect or disease problems, and cannot be overseeded with rye in the winter, as one can with bermuda lawns. It is more cold tolerant, however, meaning that the lawn will have a slightly longer growing season. Our lawn pubs are listed at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#lawn They are not available online, but you can order them [same page] or view them in the reference section of your library (Section 635 - Home Horticulture pubilcations). ------------------------- ================== Following is an excerpt from Mike Hills' response to this same question on this list from 2 years ago. Refer to http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/arid_gardener/1605.html for the complete text. -Olin ==================== Re: Is Amazoy Zoysia Grass suitable to the Low Desert? By Mike Hills (mhills_sro@email.msn.com) Wed, 13 May 1998 17:33:03 -0700 "Sorry, but not really. Zoysia is only moderately adapted to use in the southwestern deserts. Actually prefers more acidic soil and water conditions than our typically alkaline pH. Plugs seem to do the poorest job, even though the advertisements would have you believe otherwise. These are being produced usually in the SE USA where soil, water and temperature are usually very different than ours. The plugs are also usually very small, with weak roots and arrive in poor stressed out condition. Sticking them into our hot dry conditions usually wipes out half or so. Even with similar soil and water conditions, such as a homeowner in the SE purchasing these same plugs, their small size plus the ad claims and plant spacing recommendations, plus the slow horizontal growth means that the plugs generally take 2 years to fill in a lawn area. In the meantime, the turf owner fights a continual battle with weeds, including Bermuda which want to move into the open, bare nicely prepared soil area. Additionally, the plugs end up creating a bumpy, hilly turf surface since the initial plug area is higher than the surrounding areas filled in by creeping stolons. RECOMMENDATION - Do Not Buy Any Of These Zoysia Plugs from catalogs or Weekend Newspaper Supplements. Zoysiagrass is only somewhat adapted out here, and you will have to constantly monitor soil pH and alter with additions of soil sulphur, iron, gypsum, etc. to fight the alkalinity and the salts. If you really want to try zoysia grass, try planting zoysia seed instead. The initial plant population is higher from direct seeding, the plants develop their root system directly in the turf area soil base, using our local water and weed encroachment is reduced. The common zoysiagrass from seed is coarser textured, but is much more adapted to borderline conditions like the SW USA. You will still need to add soil sulphur, iron, etc. but will be more successful than with the plugged types of zoysia. Additionally, zoysias are more prone to thatch buildup in our growing conditions, yet they do not tolerate much de-thatching activity - de-thatching actually harms the turf. The built up thatch makes the turf area more prone to insect and fungal disease problems, as well as creating problems with water penetration at the soil surface. Also, zoysia will go dormant and brown in winter usually before Bermuda and come back green in spring after Bermuda - it will not tolerate overseeding with ryegrass as this damages the zoysia crowns. Thus you can plan on a brown zoysia lawn for 4-6 months each year during winter. ... _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From djhillis@qwest.net Sat Feb 2 18:17:22 2002 From: djhillis@qwest.net (djhillis@qwest.net) Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 11:17:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202021817.g12IHMD22939@Ag.arizona.edu> I have an ornamental grass called Regal Mist. They are the ones that bloom red tips in the fall. On these tips now are small black things and I picked up some and they squished like blood in my fingers. Are they insects, and if so, good or bad? What should I do with them? Thanks. Dennis From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Feb 2 21:10:40 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 02 Feb 2002 21:10:40 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] 'Regal Mist' ornamental grass Message-ID: I have not grown this ornamental grass myself. Here is some information form the web: Muhlenbergia capillaris (Lam.) Trin. Regal MistTM We feel that this ornamental grass shows great promise for many different regions of the country. Native to humid southeastern Texas, this grass has adapted extremely well to the hot, dry conditions of deserts in Arizona and Nevada. In fact, it has performed incredibly well in Las Vegas, which is cursed with poor soils, high winds, high summer temperatures, and cold winters. Regal MistTM is also happy in heavy soils, with ample irrigation. In short, it has worked everywhere it has been tried, so far! It is hardy to at least ?17.8°C (0°F). Regal MistTM has narrow, dark green, glossy leaves. It grows quickly to form a rounded clump to 0.9 m (3 feet) tall and wide. The flower spikes on this grass have attracted a lot of attention... they form misty masses of pink to purple flowers in October and November. We recommend cutting this plant back in early spring to cut off the dead flower spikes and any dormant foliage. --- I've found no information on pests, but your description sounds similar to cochineal scale on prickly pear cactus. could you take a sample to your nearest county Extension office for identification? If they are scale, they are an insect that sucks juices from the plant. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: djhillis@qwest.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 11:17:22 -0700 (MST) > >I have an ornamental grass called Regal Mist. They are the ones that bloom >red tips in the fall. On these tips now are small black things and I picked >up some and they squished like blood in my fingers. Are they insects, and >if so, good or bad? What should I do with them? Thanks. Dennis > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From desertlori@home.com Sun Feb 3 20:55:02 2002 From: desertlori@home.com (desertlori) Date: Sun, 03 Feb 2002 13:55:02 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Zoysia Grass In-Reply-To: Message-ID: WOW! Thanks you guys! I really don't want to work that hard. Maybe I should re-think the rock option. LOL Anyway, I will check out the Master Gardener site and learn more about Bermuda. Thanks again. From maryfergus@aol.com Mon Feb 4 02:16:08 2002 From: maryfergus@aol.com (maryfergus@aol.com) Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2002 19:16:08 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202040216.g142G8D29885@Ag.arizona.edu> Our beautiful (7 ea) ficus (Indian Laurel Fig) look like they were completely killed by the frost that happened last week (got down to about 25) Will they come back? What should be done now? prune them back? fertilize them? They have been in the ground about three years and are about 8 ft tall Help! Thank you, mary From gwright@Ag.arizona.edu Mon Feb 4 13:18:48 2002 From: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu (Glenn C. Wright) Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2002 06:18:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: Re: planting and growing orange trees Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020204061646.031b7118@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_1249906==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Dear MG's: Can you assist this Mr. Champion? Thanks. GCW >To: "RICHARD CHAMPION" >From: "Glenn C. Wright" >Subject: Re: planting and growing orange trees > >At 09:36 AM 2/2/2002 -0700, you wrote: >> >> >>Good morning, >> >>Can you help us ?? >> >>My wife and I live in a mobile home park in Peoria AZ >>Can you tell us how to plant and grow an orange tree (not to big) >>that will yield a sweet orange or can you tell us of a website that has >>instructions on this subject ?? >> >> >>Thank you >>Rick rdcchamp@msn.com > >Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D. >Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist >University of Arizona >Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center >Route 1, Box 40M >Somerton, AZ 85350 >Phone: 928-726-0458 >FAX: 928-726-1363 >e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu --=====================_1249906==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Dear MG's:

Can you assist this Mr. Champion?

Thanks.

GCW

To: "RICHARD CHAMPION" <rdcchamp@msn.com>
From: "Glenn C. Wright" <gwright@ag.arizona.edu>
Subject: Re: planting and growing orange trees

At 09:36 AM 2/2/2002 -0700, you wrote:
 
 
Good morning,
 
Can you help us ??
 
My wife and I live in a mobile home park in Peoria AZ
Can you tell us how to plant and grow an orange tree (not to big)
that will yield a sweet orange   or  can you tell us of a website that has
instructions on this subject ??
 
 
Thank you
Rick     rdcchamp@msn.com

Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D.
Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist
University of Arizona
Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center
Route 1, Box 40M
Somerton, AZ 85350
Phone: 928-726-0458
FAX: 928-726-1363
e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu --=====================_1249906==_.ALT-- From gwright@Ag.arizona.edu Mon Feb 4 13:23:17 2002 From: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu (Glenn C. Wright) Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2002 06:23:17 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: Re: your assistance Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020204062101.03195d28@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_1518984==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Dear Master Gardeners: Can you assist G. Joines? Thanks. GCW >To: GJoines69@aol.com >From: "Glenn C. Wright" >Subject: Re: your assistance > >At 07:49 PM 2/3/2002 -0500, you wrote: >>Hi, I hope you can point me in the right direction. >> >>I have a dwarf orange and dwarf grapefruit tree in my backyard. I know >>basically nothing about caring for them. Can you advise me about the >>basics? >>A book? web site? >> >>I really want to know about when and how to prune them (shaping them) to >>keep >>them looking nice and producing max fruits. >> >>Water? >>Fertilizing? I also have a lemon tree. Same principle as orange and grapefruit? >>thanks > >Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D. >Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist >University of Arizona >Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center >Route 1, Box 40M >Somerton, AZ 85350 >Phone: 928-726-0458 >FAX: 928-726-1363 >e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu --=====================_1518984==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Dear Master Gardeners:

Can you assist G. Joines?

Thanks.

GCW

To: GJoines69@aol.com
From: "Glenn C. Wright" <gwright@ag.arizona.edu>
Subject: Re: your assistance

At 07:49 PM 2/3/2002 -0500, you wrote:
Hi, I hope you can point me in the right direction.

I have a dwarf orange and dwarf grapefruit tree in my backyard.  I know
basically nothing about caring for them.  Can you advise me about the basics?
A book? web site?

I really want to know about when and how to prune them (shaping them) to keep
them looking nice and producing max fruits.

Water?
Fertilizing?

I also have a lemon tree.
Same principle as orange and grapefruit?



thanks

Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D.
Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist
University of Arizona
Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center
Route 1, Box 40M
Somerton, AZ 85350
Phone: 928-726-0458
FAX: 928-726-1363
e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu --=====================_1518984==_.ALT-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Feb 4 21:36:15 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 16:36:15 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ficus nitida frosted Message-ID: --part1_f6.160c81e4.299058cf_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Mary, The Ficus nitida is quite frost tender especially for the first year after they are planted. Since yours are three years old hopefully they will be able to make it. Plants for Dry Climates says that they will be damaged at 25 degrees F. Do not do anything to them except water them as they should be watered for this time of year. Wait for two to three months before pruning off the dead growth. If temperatures near 25 degrees are forecast provide a cover and wrap the trunk to protect from the cold. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_f6.160c81e4.299058cf_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Mary,

The Ficus nitida is quite frost tender especially for the first year after they are planted. Since yours are three years old hopefully they will be able to make it. Plants for Dry Climates says that they will be damaged at 25 degrees F. Do not do anything to them except water them as they should be watered for this time of year. Wait for two to three  months before pruning off the dead growth. If temperatures near 25 degrees are forecast provide a cover and wrap the trunk to protect from the cold.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_f6.160c81e4.299058cf_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Feb 4 21:49:58 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 16:49:58 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: planting and growing orange trees Message-ID: <72.171868d2.29905c06@aol.com> --part1_72.171868d2.29905c06_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Rick, Univ. of Arizona publishes an excellent bulletin titled Citrus trees in the Home Garden which should answer most of your questions about citrus and is available for $1.00 from Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_72.171868d2.29905c06_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Rick,

Univ. of Arizona publishes an excellent bulletin titled Citrus trees in the Home Garden which should answer most of your questions about citrus and is available for $1.00 from Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_72.171868d2.29905c06_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Feb 4 21:56:34 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 16:56:34 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus care Message-ID: --part1_f8.163881aa.29905d92_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Univ. of Arizona publishes an excellent bulletin titled Citrus trees in the Home Garden which should answer most of your questions about citrus and is available for $1.00 from Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_f8.163881aa.29905d92_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Univ. of Arizona publishes an excellent bulletin titled Citrus trees in the Home Garden which should answer most of your questions about citrus and is available for $1.00 from Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_f8.163881aa.29905d92_boundary-- From bnewdigate@cox.net Tue Feb 5 02:38:46 2002 From: bnewdigate@cox.net (bnewdigate@cox.net) Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 19:38:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202050238.g152ckD14619@Ag.arizona.edu> when should i first fertilize my queen palms and what should i fertilize with? From gardenguru" Message-ID: <07bf01c1ae4e$fcdb5800$69382ace@ibm22761658747> The Extension Service now has this data sheet available online at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm under Ornamentals. It provides info for queen palms fertilization and care. . AZ1021 Arizona Landscape Palms It is important to use fert. especially formulated for palms available at any nursery., They need the trace minerals as well as Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium especially Magnesium GG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, February 04, 2002 7:38 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > when should i first fertilize my queen palms and what should i fertilize with? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From gardenguru" Message-ID: <07ce01c1ae50$743c2540$69382ace@ibm22761658747> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_07C9_01C1AE15.848D8D20 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Glenn, there are several data sheet online thru the Extension Service at = this site under " Citrus ". That can provide you with assistance with = your citrus trees. There are many varieties of sweet oranges that do = very well in our climate.=20 http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm a.. AZ1001 Low Desert Citrus Varieties=20 a.. AZ1146 Budding Citrus Trees=20 a.. AZ1151 Irrigating Citrus Trees=20 a.. AZ1154 Diseases of Citrus in Arizona=20 The Sheet below are avail by mail for $1 from the Ext. Office.=20 a.. MC8 Recovery of Neglected Citrus Trees=20 a.. MC17 Irrigation Needs of Citrus=20 a.. MC65 Quality Citrus Trees=20 a.. MC91 Fertilizing Citrus Trees=20 a.. Q191 Phytophthora Foot Rot of Citrus=20 a.. 8670 Fertilizing Citrus Trees in Arizona=20 =20 In Phoenix Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Hope this helps GG ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Glenn C. Wright=20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Monday, February 04, 2002 6:18 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: Re: planting and growing orange trees Dear MG's: Can you assist this Mr. Champion? Thanks. GCW To: "RICHARD CHAMPION" From: "Glenn C. Wright" Subject: Re: planting and growing orange trees At 09:36 AM 2/2/2002 -0700, you wrote: =20 Good morning, =20 Can you help us ?? =20 My wife and I live in a mobile home park in Peoria AZ Can you tell us how to plant and grow an orange tree (not to big) that will yield a sweet orange or can you tell us of a website = that has instructions on this subject ?? =20 =20 Thank you Rick rdcchamp@msn.com=20 Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D. Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist University of Arizona Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center Route 1, Box 40M Somerton, AZ 85350 Phone: 928-726-0458 FAX: 928-726-1363 e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu=20 ------=_NextPart_000_07C9_01C1AE15.848D8D20 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Glenn, there are several data sheet online thru = the=20 Extension Service at this site under " Citrus ". That can provide you = with=20 assistance with your citrus trees. There are many varieties of sweet = oranges=20 that do very well in our climate.
 
http://= ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm
 
The Sheet below are avail by mail for $1 from = the Ext.=20 Office.
  • MC8 Recovery of Neglected Citrus Trees=20
  • MC17 Irrigation Needs of Citrus=20
  • MC65 Quality Citrus Trees=20
  • MC91 Fertilizing Citrus Trees=20
  • Q191 Phytophthora Foot Rot of Citrus=20
  • 8670 Fertilizing Citrus Trees in Arizona
    •  
     

    In = Phoenix

    Maricopa County = Cooperative=20 Extension

    4341 E. Broadway=20 Road

    Phoenix,=20 AZ 85040
    Hope=20 this helps
    GG
    ----- Original Message -----
    From:=20 Glenn C.=20 Wright
    Sent: Monday, February 04, 2002 = 6:18=20 AM
    Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: = Re:=20 planting and growing orange trees

    Dear MG's:

    Can = you assist=20 this Mr. Champion?

    Thanks.

    GCW
    To: = "RICHARD CHAMPION"=20 <rdcchamp@msn.com>
    From:=20 "Glenn C. Wright" <gwright@ag.arizona.edu>
    = Subject:=20 Re: planting and growing orange trees

    At 09:36 AM 2/2/2002 = -0700, you=20 wrote:

     
    Good=20 morning,
     
    Can you help us ??
     
    My wife and = I live=20 in a mobile home park in Peoria AZ
    Can you tell us how to plant = and=20 grow an orange tree (not to big)
    that will yield a sweet=20 orange   or  can you tell us of a website that=20 has
    instructions on this subject = ??
     
     
    Thank=20 you
    Rick     rdcchamp@msn.com=20

    Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D.
    Associate Research Scientist = and=20 Citrus Specialist
    University of Arizona
    Yuma Mesa Agriculture=20 Center
    Route 1, Box 40M
    Somerton, AZ 85350
    Phone:=20 928-726-0458
    FAX: 928-726-1363
    e-mail: = gwright@ag.arizona.edu    =20

    ------=_NextPart_000_07C9_01C1AE15.848D8D20-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Feb 5 14:22:19 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2002 14:22:19 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palms, fertlizing Message-ID: Fertilize palms for the first time in April after temperatures have warmed and the palms are actively growing again. Use a palm fertilizer to provide the micronutrients palms need (typically a fertilizer of 9-4-9 plus minors). Queen palms are not the best-adapted to our deserts and will require regular irrigation and fertilizing. They need good drainage and deep soils (2 feet or so). For more information, check this publication: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: bnewdigate@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 19:38:46 -0700 (MST) > >when should i first fertilize my queen palms and what should i fertilize >with? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 5 14:40:51 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2002 07:40:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pest ID - Regal Mist References: <200202021817.g12IHMD22939@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C5FEEF3.A630728D@qwest.net> I believe that you have a form of aphid which come in different colors. Check out the MG Manual for help in identification and management. http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/entomology/sap.html#sap This is the time of year that they start appearing. Linda Guy, MG djhillis@qwest.net wrote: > I have an ornamental grass called Regal Mist. They are the ones that bloom red tips in the fall. On these tips now are small black things and I picked up some and they squished like blood in my fingers. Are they insects, and if so, good or bad? What should I do with them? Thanks. Dennis > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From clemmirk@aol.com Tue Feb 5 15:33:19 2002 From: clemmirk@aol.com (clemmirk@aol.com) Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 08:33:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202051533.g15FXJD09550@Ag.arizona.edu> I have an Organ Pipe Cactus that is yellowing and appears deseased. There are, however, some healthy looking green stalks, that I have removed and saved. How do I transplant these? Will they grow, and do I need to water them in the beginning? From gwright@Ag.arizona.edu Tue Feb 5 16:43:58 2002 From: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu (Glenn C. Wright) Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2002 09:43:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: Citrus tree Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020205094222.03187860@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_99960281==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Dear Master Gardeners: Can you assist this lady? Thanks, GCW >From: MASTennis@aol.com >Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 23:25:03 EST >Subject: Citrus tree >To: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu >X-Mailer: AOL 6.0 for Windows US sub 10556 > >I have a navel orange tree (dwarf) that has been dropping its leaves. It >started in Nov. and then new leaves came back and now they are dropping in >large quantities. My oranges were very small and some were split and on >the ground. What can I do? > >Thank you, Margie Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D. Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist University of Arizona Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center Route 1, Box 40M Somerton, AZ 85350 Phone: 928-726-0458 FAX: 928-726-1363 e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu --=====================_99960281==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Dear Master Gardeners:

    Can you assist this lady?

    Thanks,

    GCW

    From: MASTennis@aol.com
    Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 23:25:03 EST
    Subject: Citrus tree
    To: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu
    X-Mailer: AOL 6.0 for Windows US sub 10556

    I have a navel orange tree (dwarf) that has been dropping its leaves.  It started in Nov. and then new leaves came back and now they are dropping in large quantities.  My oranges were very small and some were split and on the ground.  What can I do?  

    Thank you,  Margie

    Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D.
    Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist
    University of Arizona
    Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center
    Route 1, Box 40M
    Somerton, AZ 85350
    Phone: 928-726-0458
    FAX: 928-726-1363
    e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu     --=====================_99960281==_.ALT-- From ThiedingM@aol.com Tue Feb 5 17:25:03 2002 From: ThiedingM@aol.com (ThiedingM@aol.com) Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 10:25:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202051725.g15HP3D06276@Ag.arizona.edu> Do trailing roses get pruned back the same as all other types of rose bushes? If yes, when is the best time to prune back? From Jonathan Kandell" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C1AE3A.BFC54FC0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Interesting article on irrigation practises in old and new Egypt. http://journeytoforever.org/farm_library/Wrench_Recon/Wrench_Recon_15.html ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C1AE3A.BFC54FC0 Content-Type: application/octet-stream; name="Wrench - Reconstruction by Way of the Soil - Ch15.url" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="Wrench - Reconstruction by Way of the Soil - Ch15.url" [DEFAULT] BASEURL=3Dhttp://journeytoforever.org/farm_library/Wrench_Recon/Wrench_Re= con_15.html [InternetShortcut] URL=3Dhttp://journeytoforever.org/farm_library/Wrench_Recon/Wrench_Recon_= 15.html Modified=3D007AB45D75AEC10170 ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C1AE3A.BFC54FC0-- From azcovey2@home.com Tue Feb 5 21:36:30 2002 From: azcovey2@home.com (azcovey2@home.com) Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 14:36:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202052136.g15LaUD09015@Ag.arizona.edu> I have an atrium that is open on top and 6 x 6 and fully enclosed. It is 90% shaded. I have a large container that I am hoping to either plant a good size organ pipe style cactus which would be alone or a variety of succulents, an agave being the main plant along with small ones at the bottom. Is this enough sun for either of these plantings or do you have other suggestions. It needs something at least 3' high or dramatic. Please advise From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Feb 5 22:32:09 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2002 22:32:09 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] cactus, transplanting Message-ID: For information on transplanting cactus, go to: http://pubs1.cals.arizona.edu/search/srch.cfm and search for 'ocotillo' The online document will give you details for planting the healthy stems. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: clemmirk@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 08:33:19 -0700 (MST) > >I have an Organ Pipe Cactus that is yellowing and appears deseased. There >are, however, some healthy looking green stalks, that I have removed and >saved. How do I transplant these? Will they grow, and do I need to water >them in the beginning? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From martypock@vtc.net Tue Feb 5 22:37:45 2002 From: martypock@vtc.net (martypock@vtc.net) Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 15:37:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202052237.g15MbjD24568@Ag.arizona.edu> What vegetable plants besides tomatoes and potatoes are in the nightshade family? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Feb 5 23:19:34 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2002 23:19:34 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] nightshade family Message-ID: Solanaceae (Nightshade Family) The Solanaceae Family has been highly cultivated over the years - it includes potatoes, tomatoes, eggplant, sweet peppers, chili peppers (but not black pepper), tobacco and petunias. Some plants have great medicinal value, some are quite poisonous. The calyx and corolla are 5-lobed, and usually there are 5 stamens. The fruit is partitioned into 2 or 4 seed-producing divisions, and may be dry or a fleshy berry. Solanales. The Solanaceae are herbs, shrubs, or trees comprising about 85 genera and 2,800 species that are frequently lianous or creeping. The leaves are alternate, usually simple, and lack stipules. Use an internet search engine of your choice and search for "Solanaceae". Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: martypock@vtc.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 15:37:45 -0700 (MST) > >What vegetable plants besides tomatoes and potatoes are in the nightshade >family? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From Jonathan Kandell" I was wondering if anyone had references to any Argentinian retail seed suppliers or vegetable growing web sites? They have a desert somewhat similar to my own and was curious what/how they planted. jk, tucson az From azlady3@aol.com Wed Feb 6 02:28:05 2002 From: azlady3@aol.com (azlady3@aol.com) Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 19:28:05 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202060228.g162S5D04964@Ag.arizona.edu> I need some advice quick! Everytime I put flowers out in my back yard they are consumed by either the bunnies or quail. THey have eated at least $300 worth of flowers and show no signs of stopping. Have you a clue as to what to do? Maybe you could suggest something to plant that they do not like. They have consumed Hopping John, Petunias, geraniums. One more question: I need to know how to keep pidgeons from liking my roof so much. Messy and bully the quail. But they do not eat the plants! Thanks, CC From canyonman@webtv.net Wed Feb 6 05:32:42 2002 From: canyonman@webtv.net (Gary Hellems) Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 22:32:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Battle with Caliche Message-ID: <16563-3C60BFFA-645@storefull-126.iap.bryant.webtv.net> Well, this is probably not the first posting on this subject but was wondering if it is possible to work with caliche when it comes time for planting, whether it be shrubs, trees, wildflowers or for that matter, cacti. I was told that to be successful, one must dig out all caliche in order to plant anything. It was suggested that holes that are dug for plants must be filled in with a rich soil mixture with mulch. I currently live in the north central part of Arizona. Any suggestions or comments? Thank you, Regards, Gary From jennaz31@aol.com Wed Feb 6 13:47:11 2002 From: jennaz31@aol.com (jennaz31@aol.com) Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 06:47:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202061347.g16DlBD15944@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a yellow hibiscus that has black spots all over the leaves. I have two red ones near it and one of those has a few spots, but the other is clear. What is this and what shoud I do? thanks Jenn From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Feb 6 14:35:55 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2002 14:35:55 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hibiscus, spots on leaves Message-ID: >From: jennaz31@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 06:47:11 -0700 (MST) > >I have a yellow hibiscus that has black spots all over the leaves. I have >two red ones near it and one of those has a few spots, but the other is >clear. >What is this and what shoud I do? > >thanks >Jenn > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener The black spots could be a disease, but may just be that your watering and fertilizing practices need to be fine-tuned. You can ask questions about hibiscus at The American Hibiscus Society. http://www.trop-hibiscus.com Linda Drew Master Gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Feb 6 14:43:56 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2002 14:43:56 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Wildlife eating flowers Message-ID: The most effective way to keep quail and rabbits from eating your plants is exclusion -- you will need to construct cage(s) around your garden that keep them out. There are many other options, including planting things that aren't tasty, such as salvia, but this doesn't work if they are very hungry. Go back to our web page and search on "rabbits" for other ideas. Pigeons will usually leave if you do not provide any food for them -- bird feeders, dogs and cats food left outdoors, etc. and exclude them from nesting around your property. Water is also a big draw that will attract them -- dog dish, bird bath, fountain, etc. Again, check our web page for other discussions. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: azlady3@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 19:28:05 -0700 (MST) > >I need some advice quick! >Everytime I put flowers out in my back yard they are consumed by either the >bunnies or quail. >THey have eated at least $300 worth of flowers and show no signs of >stopping. >Have you a clue as to what to do? >Maybe you could suggest something to plant that they do not like. >They have consumed Hopping John, Petunias, geraniums. > >One more question: >I need to know how to keep pidgeons from liking my roof so much. Messy and >bully the quail. But they do not eat the plants! >Thanks, >CC > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From lbradley@sisna.com Wed Feb 6 14:53:50 2002 From: lbradley@sisna.com (Lucy Bradley) Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2002 07:53:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] hands-on workshop on straw bale privacy wall construction Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020206075321.03969628@ag.arizona.edu> >* Pima County Cooperative Extension and Arizona Department of >Environmental Quality are offering a hands-on workshop on straw bale >privacy wall construction with earthen plasters as the first in a series >of workshops about alternative construction techniques. Participants will >receive instruction and actually build a straw bale wall from start to >finish. The free standing wall will be constructed as part of the Our >Yard Recycling Garden Project located at 4210 N. Campbell. The dates are >February 23, 24 and March 2 from 8:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. Registration is >limited to the first 25 people. The fee is $50.00. To register and for >more information, call 626-5161. From paul.a.koning@intel.com Wed Feb 6 17:57:22 2002 From: paul.a.koning@intel.com (paul.a.koning@intel.com) Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 10:57:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202061757.g16HvLD05660@Ag.arizona.edu> I have some questions about the apparent hardiness difference between blue and yellow lantana. I have both planted in my front yard, the yellow lantanas are flourishing, but the blue lantanas are spindly and unattractive. Are there known hardiness issues between that I can act on? For example: blue lantana need more or less water, are more sensitive to soil pH, more susceptible to white fly infestations, … Also does anyone have a suggestion for a full sun, low and colorful ground cover if the blue lantana don’t recover? Is the multicolor lantana any hardier? Background information: · They are planted in different beds; the landscape contractor did no soil amendment before planting. · The yellow are near a red Yucca, barrel cactus and mesquite, the blue near ocotillo and golden barrel cactus. · The yellow lantana may get a hour of morning and evening shade but both yellow and blue get unfiltered get full day sun. · Both are on the same drip irrigation line. · Both get white fly infestations during the summer. · I use an insecticidal soap to try to control the white fly. Should I use something else? Any information would be greatly appreciated! Paul Koning From DorthK@aol.com Wed Feb 6 20:41:16 2002 From: DorthK@aol.com (DorthK@aol.com) Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 13:41:16 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202062041.g16KfGD17577@Ag.arizona.edu> I want to start a huge flower garden in Mesa area. I would like flowers to bloom mostly in May and October. What annuals and Perennials would I choose. Also when should they be planted. I am from MN and know all the right flowers there but not here in AZ. Thanks From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Feb 6 22:32:59 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2002 22:32:59 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] lantana Message-ID: If possible, can you find the botanic names for the two lantanas that were planted? I've taken a guess here on two lantana species. Lantana camara (in shades of pink, yellow, red) is a tough shrub from the tropics/Caribbean. Light: Sun, part shade. Moisture: Well drained soil, drought resistant. Too much water and fertilizer will reduce bloom. Hardiness: USDA Zone 8 - 11, likes both humid and dry heat. Lantana is killed at 28° F, but quickly grows back. Lantana montevidenis (in purplish shades) is a less tough groundcover from South America. Light: Sun or shade, but more flowers when grown in bright sun. Moisture: Likes well drained light soils. Hardiness: USDA Zone 8 - 10; will tolerate some freezing temperatures. Top will die back in temperatures in the mid 20's F; frost gives the leaves a purple tinge; will recover in spring. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: paul.a.koning@intel.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 10:57:22 -0700 (MST) > >I have some questions about the apparent hardiness difference between blue >and yellow lantana. I have both planted in my front yard, the yellow >lantanas are flourishing, but the blue lantanas are spindly and >unattractive. > >Are there known hardiness issues between that I can act on? For example: >blue lantana need more or less water, are more sensitive to soil pH, more >susceptible to white fly infestations, ? > >Also does anyone have a suggestion for a full sun, low and colorful ground >cover if the blue lantana don?t recover? Is the multicolor lantana any >hardier? > >Background information: >· They are planted in different beds; the landscape contractor did no soil >amendment before planting. >· The yellow are near a red Yucca, barrel cactus and mesquite, the blue >near ocotillo and golden barrel cactus. >· The yellow lantana may get a hour of morning and evening shade but both >yellow and blue get unfiltered get full day sun. >· Both are on the same drip irrigation line. >· Both get white fly infestations during the summer. >· I use an insecticidal soap to try to control the white fly. Should I use >something else? > >Any information would be greatly appreciated! > >Paul Koning > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Feb 6 22:51:25 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 17:51:25 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Trailing roses, pruning Message-ID: --part1_ad.17cd61b0.29930d6d_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sorry, but I've not heard of a rose clssification called Trailing Rose. If you are talking about Ramblers, they should not be pruned until after they bloom. If it is climbers that you are asking about and you live in the low desert of Arizona January is the preferred time to prune, however you can still prune now. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian --part1_ad.17cd61b0.29930d6d_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sorry, but I've not heard of a rose clssification called Trailing Rose. If you are talking about Ramblers, they should not be pruned until after they bloom. If it is climbers that you are asking about and you live in the low desert of Arizona January is the preferred time to prune, however you can still prune now.

    Good luck.

    Rod McKusick
    Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian     --part1_ad.17cd61b0.29930d6d_boundary-- From pamela@u.arizona.edu Thu Feb 7 00:16:30 2002 From: pamela@u.arizona.edu (Pamela Tremain Koch) Date: Thu, 07 Feb 2002 08:16:30 +0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] lantana References: Message-ID: <00e901c1af6c$b314d420$42ddd690@computer> This is definately from a non-expert--but I bought some of the Yellow Lantana last year because I read an article that they were the longest blooming of all lantana--they were designed not to set seed as often as other kinds and therefore their bloom period was geatly extended when compared with most others. What you are seeing might be a result of this extended bloom period. Pamela ----- Original Message ----- From: "Linda Drew" To: ; Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2002 6:32 AM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] lantana > > If possible, can you find the botanic names for the two > lantanas that were planted? > > I've taken a guess here on two lantana species. > > Lantana camara (in shades of pink, yellow, red) is a > tough shrub from the tropics/Caribbean. > Light: Sun, part shade. > Moisture: Well drained soil, drought resistant. Too much water and > fertilizer will reduce bloom. > Hardiness: USDA Zone 8 - 11, likes both humid and dry heat. Lantana is > killed at 28° F, but quickly grows back. > > Lantana montevidenis (in purplish shades) is a less > tough groundcover from South America. > Light: Sun or shade, but more flowers when grown in bright sun. > Moisture: Likes well drained light soils. > Hardiness: USDA Zone 8 - 10; will tolerate some freezing temperatures. Top > will die back in temperatures in the mid 20's F; frost gives the leaves a > purple tinge; will recover in spring. > > Linda Drew > Master Gardener > > >From: paul.a.koning@intel.com > >To: > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 10:57:22 -0700 (MST) > > > >I have some questions about the apparent hardiness difference between blue > >and yellow lantana. I have both planted in my front yard, the yellow > >lantanas are flourishing, but the blue lantanas are spindly and > >unattractive. > > > >Are there known hardiness issues between that I can act on? For example: > >blue lantana need more or less water, are more sensitive to soil pH, more > >susceptible to white fly infestations, ? > > > >Also does anyone have a suggestion for a full sun, low and colorful ground > >cover if the blue lantana don?t recover? Is the multicolor lantana any > >hardier? > > > >Background information: > >· They are planted in different beds; the landscape contractor did no soil > >amendment before planting. > >· The yellow are near a red Yucca, barrel cactus and mesquite, the blue > >near ocotillo and golden barrel cactus. > >· The yellow lantana may get a hour of morning and evening shade but both > >yellow and blue get unfiltered get full day sun. > >· Both are on the same drip irrigation line. > >· Both get white fly infestations during the summer. > >· I use an insecticidal soap to try to control the white fly. Should I use > >something else? > > > >Any information would be greatly appreciated! > > > >Paul Koning > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Arid_gardener mailing list > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: > http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From umiller@azdps.com Thu Feb 7 02:20:30 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 19:20:30 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200202060228.g162S5D04964@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Yesiree, those bunnies!!! I had the same problem. Go to this site: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener and type in rabbits and search the archives for previous discussions on this. You may also find something on quail if you type that in. My own solution was to finally put a wall around my yard with gates. (I have a fairly small yard.) Even that didn't do the trick 100% because the bunnies would dig under the gates and get in. So I built little piles of rocks along the bottom of the gates to prevent them from coming in and also still allow water runoff during heavy rains. The wall was a drastic move, but worth it. Now I now have petunias, stock and other flowers back there and I'm happy. I was clearly the loser in my two-year fight with the rabbits. I wish you lots of luck because I know how frustrating this is. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of azlady3@aol.com Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2002 7:28 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I need some advice quick! Everytime I put flowers out in my back yard they are consumed by either the bunnies or quail. THey have eated at least $300 worth of flowers and show no signs of stopping. Have you a clue as to what to do? Maybe you could suggest something to plant that they do not like. They have consumed Hopping John, Petunias, geraniums. One more question: I need to know how to keep pidgeons from liking my roof so much. Messy and bully the quail. But they do not eat the plants! Thanks, CC _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From paul.a.koning@intel.com Thu Feb 7 02:32:58 2002 From: paul.a.koning@intel.com (Koning, Paul A) Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 18:32:58 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] lantana Message-ID: Thank you for the reply. So if the bloom/seed cycle of the blue/purple lantana is the root cause of the lack of robustness, then my pruning off the flower heads before the seed set should help the plant out. Does this sound like a good plan of action? Paul K. -----Original Message----- From: Pamela Tremain Koch [mailto:pamela@u.arizona.edu] Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2002 5:16 PM To: Linda Drew; paul.a.koning@intel.com; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] lantana This is definately from a non-expert--but I bought some of the Yellow Lantana last year because I read an article that they were the longest blooming of all lantana--they were designed not to set seed as often as other kinds and therefore their bloom period was geatly extended when compared with most others. What you are seeing might be a result of this extended bloom period. Pamela ----- Original Message ----- From: "Linda Drew" To: ; Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2002 6:32 AM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] lantana > > If possible, can you find the botanic names for the two > lantanas that were planted? > > I've taken a guess here on two lantana species. > > Lantana camara (in shades of pink, yellow, red) is a > tough shrub from the tropics/Caribbean. > Light: Sun, part shade. > Moisture: Well drained soil, drought resistant. Too much water and > fertilizer will reduce bloom. > Hardiness: USDA Zone 8 - 11, likes both humid and dry heat. Lantana is > killed at 28° F, but quickly grows back. > > Lantana montevidenis (in purplish shades) is a less > tough groundcover from South America. > Light: Sun or shade, but more flowers when grown in bright sun. > Moisture: Likes well drained light soils. > Hardiness: USDA Zone 8 - 10; will tolerate some freezing temperatures. Top > will die back in temperatures in the mid 20's F; frost gives the leaves a > purple tinge; will recover in spring. > > Linda Drew > Master Gardener > > >From: paul.a.koning@intel.com > >To: > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 10:57:22 -0700 (MST) > > > >I have some questions about the apparent hardiness difference between blue > >and yellow lantana. I have both planted in my front yard, the yellow > >lantanas are flourishing, but the blue lantanas are spindly and > >unattractive. > > > >Are there known hardiness issues between that I can act on? For example: > >blue lantana need more or less water, are more sensitive to soil pH, more > >susceptible to white fly infestations, ? > > > >Also does anyone have a suggestion for a full sun, low and colorful ground > >cover if the blue lantana don?t recover? Is the multicolor lantana any > >hardier? > > > >Background information: > >· They are planted in different beds; the landscape contractor did no soil > >amendment before planting. > >· The yellow are near a red Yucca, barrel cactus and mesquite, the blue > >near ocotillo and golden barrel cactus. > >· The yellow lantana may get a hour of morning and evening shade but both > >yellow and blue get unfiltered get full day sun. > >· Both are on the same drip irrigation line. > >· Both get white fly infestations during the summer. > >· I use an insecticidal soap to try to control the white fly. Should I use > >something else? > > > >Any information would be greatly appreciated! > > > >Paul Koning > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Arid_gardener mailing list > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: > http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From ccromell@amug.org Thu Feb 7 05:04:05 2002 From: ccromell@amug.org (Cathy Cromell) Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 22:04:05 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] any favorite heirloom varieties? Message-ID: Does anyone have favorite heirloom vegetables (mostly for flavor) or flowers (mostly for scent) that do well in the low desert? I'd appreciate learning what varieties you've had success with. Thanks. Cathy Cromell From pamela@u.arizona.edu Thu Feb 7 05:11:36 2002 From: pamela@u.arizona.edu (Pamela Tremain Koch) Date: Thu, 07 Feb 2002 13:11:36 +0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] lantana References: Message-ID: <01a301c1af96$004a2960$25e8d690@cityu.edu.hk> Clipping spent flowers always helps prolong bloom, although the lantana has so many flowers this might be quite a task on a regular basis. I must admit to replacing my purple with a yellow one as they do bloom so much longer and better. Here is a link about lantana varieties that confirms my initial thought: http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/cemap/lantanagold/lantana.html Pamela ----- Original Message ----- From: "Koning, Paul A" To: "'Pamela Tremain Koch'" ; "Linda Drew" ; "Koning, Paul A" ; Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2002 10:32 AM Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] lantana > Thank you for the reply. > > So if the bloom/seed cycle of the blue/purple lantana is the root cause of > the lack of robustness, then my pruning off the flower heads before the seed > set should help the plant out. Does this sound like a good plan of action? > > Paul K. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Pamela Tremain Koch [mailto:pamela@u.arizona.edu] > Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2002 5:16 PM > To: Linda Drew; paul.a.koning@intel.com; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] lantana > > This is definately from a non-expert--but I bought some of the Yellow > Lantana last year because I read an article that they were the longest > blooming of all lantana--they were designed not to set seed as often as > other kinds and therefore their bloom period was geatly extended when > compared with most others. What you are seeing might be a result of this > extended bloom period. > > Pamela > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Linda Drew" > To: ; > Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2002 6:32 AM > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] lantana > > > > > > If possible, can you find the botanic names for the two > > lantanas that were planted? > > > > I've taken a guess here on two lantana species. > > > > Lantana camara (in shades of pink, yellow, red) is a > > tough shrub from the tropics/Caribbean. > > Light: Sun, part shade. > > Moisture: Well drained soil, drought resistant. Too much water and > > fertilizer will reduce bloom. > > Hardiness: USDA Zone 8 - 11, likes both humid and dry heat. Lantana is > > killed at 28° F, but quickly grows back. > > > > Lantana montevidenis (in purplish shades) is a less > > tough groundcover from South America. > > Light: Sun or shade, but more flowers when grown in bright sun. > > Moisture: Likes well drained light soils. > > Hardiness: USDA Zone 8 - 10; will tolerate some freezing temperatures. Top > > will die back in temperatures in the mid 20's F; frost gives the leaves a > > purple tinge; will recover in spring. > > > > Linda Drew > > Master Gardener > > > > >From: paul.a.koning@intel.com > > >To: > > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > >Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 10:57:22 -0700 (MST) > > > > > >I have some questions about the apparent hardiness difference between > blue > > >and yellow lantana. I have both planted in my front yard, the yellow > > >lantanas are flourishing, but the blue lantanas are spindly and > > >unattractive. > > > > > >Are there known hardiness issues between that I can act on? For example: > > >blue lantana need more or less water, are more sensitive to soil pH, more > > >susceptible to white fly infestations, ? > > > > > >Also does anyone have a suggestion for a full sun, low and colorful > ground > > >cover if the blue lantana don?t recover? Is the multicolor lantana any > > >hardier? > > > > > >Background information: > > >· They are planted in different beds; the landscape contractor did no > soil > > >amendment before planting. > > >· The yellow are near a red Yucca, barrel cactus and mesquite, the blue > > >near ocotillo and golden barrel cactus. > > >· The yellow lantana may get a hour of morning and evening shade but both > > >yellow and blue get unfiltered get full day sun. > > >· Both are on the same drip irrigation line. > > >· Both get white fly infestations during the summer. > > >· I use an insecticidal soap to try to control the white fly. Should I > use > > >something else? > > > > > >Any information would be greatly appreciated! > > > > > >Paul Koning > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > > >Arid_gardener mailing list > > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: > > http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Koning, Paul A" To: "'Pamela Tremain Koch'" ; "Linda Drew" ; "Koning, Paul A" ; Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2002 10:32 AM Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] lantana > Thank you for the reply. > > So if the bloom/seed cycle of the blue/purple lantana is the root cause of > the lack of robustness, then my pruning off the flower heads before the seed > set should help the plant out. Does this sound like a good plan of action? > > Paul K. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Pamela Tremain Koch [mailto:pamela@u.arizona.edu] > Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2002 5:16 PM > To: Linda Drew; paul.a.koning@intel.com; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] lantana > > This is definately from a non-expert--but I bought some of the Yellow > Lantana last year because I read an article that they were the longest > blooming of all lantana--they were designed not to set seed as often as > other kinds and therefore their bloom period was geatly extended when > compared with most others. What you are seeing might be a result of this > extended bloom period. > > Pamela > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Linda Drew" > To: ; > Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2002 6:32 AM > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] lantana > > > > > > If possible, can you find the botanic names for the two > > lantanas that were planted? > > > > I've taken a guess here on two lantana species. > > > > Lantana camara (in shades of pink, yellow, red) is a > > tough shrub from the tropics/Caribbean. > > Light: Sun, part shade. > > Moisture: Well drained soil, drought resistant. Too much water and > > fertilizer will reduce bloom. > > Hardiness: USDA Zone 8 - 11, likes both humid and dry heat. Lantana is > > killed at 28° F, but quickly grows back. > > > > Lantana montevidenis (in purplish shades) is a less > > tough groundcover from South America. > > Light: Sun or shade, but more flowers when grown in bright sun. > > Moisture: Likes well drained light soils. > > Hardiness: USDA Zone 8 - 10; will tolerate some freezing temperatures. Top > > will die back in temperatures in the mid 20's F; frost gives the leaves a > > purple tinge; will recover in spring. > > > > Linda Drew > > Master Gardener > > > > >From: paul.a.koning@intel.com > > >To: > > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > >Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 10:57:22 -0700 (MST) > > > > > >I have some questions about the apparent hardiness difference between > blue > > >and yellow lantana. I have both planted in my front yard, the yellow > > >lantanas are flourishing, but the blue lantanas are spindly and > > >unattractive. > > > > > >Are there known hardiness issues between that I can act on? For example: > > >blue lantana need more or less water, are more sensitive to soil pH, more > > >susceptible to white fly infestations, ? > > > > > >Also does anyone have a suggestion for a full sun, low and colorful > ground > > >cover if the blue lantana don?t recover? Is the multicolor lantana any > > >hardier? > > > > > >Background information: > > >· They are planted in different beds; the landscape contractor did no > soil > > >amendment before planting. > > >· The yellow are near a red Yucca, barrel cactus and mesquite, the blue > > >near ocotillo and golden barrel cactus. > > >· The yellow lantana may get a hour of morning and evening shade but both > > >yellow and blue get unfiltered get full day sun. > > >· Both are on the same drip irrigation line. > > >· Both get white fly infestations during the summer. > > >· I use an insecticidal soap to try to control the white fly. Should I > use > > >something else? > > > > > >Any information would be greatly appreciated! > > > > > >Paul Koning > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > > >Arid_gardener mailing list > > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: > > http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From jbegeman@Ag.arizona.edu Thu Feb 7 15:57:07 2002 From: jbegeman@Ag.arizona.edu (John Begeman) Date: Thu, 07 Feb 2002 08:57:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Summer Garden Tour to France Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20020207085546.00ae2be0@ag.arizona.edu> The Second Annual French Garden Tour "Paris to Provence" is scheduled for departure from Tucson on July 21, 2002. This 13 day, 12 night tour includes some of the most spectacular gardens in all of Europe; including Monet's garden at Giverney, the Loire Valley chateau gardens of Villandry and Chenonceau, Villa Ephrusi Rothschild in Nice, and the Exotic Gardens of Monaco and Eze, to name just a few. In addition this tour includes visits to the lavender fields of Provence, the International Perfume Museum in Grasse, and a day touring the private gardens of Provence with noted garden writer Louisa Jones - author of "Gardens in Provence" and "The French Country Garden". For a detailed tour itinerary and reservation form visit the tour web-site at: www.gildedagetours.com John P. Begeman, M.S. Urban Horticulture Agent Pima County Cooperative Extension Phone: (520) 626-5161 Fax: (520) 626-5849 jbegeman@ag.arizona.edu From CoastalRose@att.net Thu Feb 7 16:50:38 2002 From: CoastalRose@att.net (Harmony) Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 08:50:38 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Live Oak tree in Texas Message-ID: <001001c1aff7$92cd3730$5226500c@Blue> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C1AFB4.84A9F730 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_001_0012_01C1AFB4.84A9F730" ------=_NextPart_001_0012_01C1AFB4.84A9F730 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit My nephew lives near Dallas and transplanted a live oak tree that is 15' tall with a trunk base around 4" in diameter. He planted it 2' deep. The tree looked "normal" for the first two weeks then the leaves started losing their color from green to pale tan with a few dark green spots scattered within each leaf. It got worse for another couple of weeks. They added a root stimulator but not sure if it was mixed correctly. He watered it intensely, trying to dilute any excess root stimulator (if there was any). After two weeks, the tree looked the same so they mixed a new batch and applied it. That was a month ago and the tree's leaves that were falling then had stopped after about three weeks from when they started. It left about 25% of the original leaves still intact. Should he give it another dose of root stimulator? Should he cut the small sucker branches off now or wait until the tree recovers? What will be the best fertilizer to use once the weather warms? We appreciate any suggestions that you may have. Harmony ------=_NextPart_001_0012_01C1AFB4.84A9F730 Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

     My nephew lives near = Dallas and transplanted a live oak tree that is 15’ = tall with a trunk base around 4” in diameter.  He planted it 2’ deep.

    The tree looked = “normal” for the first two weeks then the leaves started losing their color from = green to pale tan with a few dark green spots scattered within each leaf.  It got worse for another couple = of weeks.

    They added a root stimulator but = not sure if it was mixed correctly.  He watered it intensely, trying to dilute any excess root stimulator (if = there was any).  After two weeks, the = tree looked the same so they mixed a new batch and applied = it.

    That was a month ago and the = tree’s leaves that were falling then had stopped after about three weeks from when = they started.  It left about 25% = of the original leaves still intact.

    Should he give it another dose of = root stimulator?  Should he cut = the small sucker branches off now or wait until the tree recovers?  What will be the best = fertilizer to use once the weather warms?

    We appreciate any suggestions that = you may have.

    Harmony=

     <= /p>

     

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RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 17:17:43 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Live Oak tree in Texas Message-ID: <121.ba4a28f.29945707@aol.com> --part1_121.ba4a28f.29945707_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Harmony, Sounds as though the tree was not watered properly after planting, either over or under watered. I would not recommend using any more root stimulint nor should this newly planted tree be fertilized until it is a year old (from time of planting ). Likewise do not prune anything from the tree except dead, damaged or crossing branches for at least one year. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_121.ba4a28f.29945707_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Harmony,

    Sounds as though the tree was not watered properly after planting, either over or under watered.
    I would not recommend using any more root stimulint nor should this newly planted tree be fertilized until it is a year old (from time of planting ). Likewise do not prune anything from the tree except dead, damaged or crossing branches for at least one year.

    Good luck.

    Rod McKusick
    Master Gardener and Arborist     --part1_121.ba4a28f.29945707_boundary-- From CoastalRose@att.net Fri Feb 8 00:19:42 2002 From: CoastalRose@att.net (Harmony) Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 16:19:42 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Live Oak tree in Texas In-Reply-To: <121.ba4a28f.29945707@aol.com> Message-ID: <000e01c1b036$4ecc50e0$4f02500c@Blue> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C1AFF3.40A910E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Thank you very much, Rod, for your quick response. I appreciate your thoughts and I'll pass them along to my nephew. Harmony -----Original Message----- From: RodMcQ6@aol.com [mailto:RodMcQ6@aol.com] Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2002 2:18 PM To: CoastalRose@att.net Cc: arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Live Oak tree in Texas Harmony, Sounds as though the tree was not watered properly after planting, either over or under watered. I would not recommend using any more root stimulint nor should this newly planted tree be fertilized until it is a year old (from time of planting ). Likewise do not prune anything from the tree except dead, damaged or crossing branches for at least one year. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist ------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C1AFF3.40A910E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

    Thank you very much, Rod, for your = quick response.  I appreciate = your thoughts and I’ll pass them along to my = nephew.

     

    Harmony

     

    -----Original = Message-----
    From: RodMcQ6@aol.com [mailto:RodMcQ6@aol.com]
    Sent: Thursday, February = 07, 2002 2:18 PM
    To: = CoastalRose@att.net
    Cc: = arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu
    Subject: Re: = [Arid_gardener] Live Oak tree in Texas

     

    Harmony,

    Sounds as though the tree was not watered properly after planting, = either over or under watered.
    I would not recommend using any more root stimulint nor should this = newly planted tree be fertilized until it is a year old (from time of planting = ). Likewise do not prune anything from the tree except dead, damaged or = crossing branches for at least one year.

    Good luck.

    Rod McKusick
    Master Gardener and Arborist

    ------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C1AFF3.40A910E0-- From umiller@azdps.com Fri Feb 8 00:55:37 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 17:55:37 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] lantana In-Reply-To: <01a301c1af96$004a2960$25e8d690@cityu.edu.hk> Message-ID: Another option is to do what I did: Plant some new yellow ones between the purple ones which were there. That seems to assure that there's some color there almost all the time since their flowering also seems to be on different schedules. And, when they're both blooming, the yellow and purple look nice together. Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Pamela Tremain Koch Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2002 10:12 PM To: Koning, Paul A; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] lantana Clipping spent flowers always helps prolong bloom, although the lantana has so many flowers this might be quite a task on a regular basis. I must admit to replacing my purple with a yellow one as they do bloom so much longer and better. Here is a link about lantana varieties that confirms my initial thought: http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/cemap/lantanagold/lantana.html Pamela ----- Original Message ----- From: "Koning, Paul A" To: "'Pamela Tremain Koch'" ; "Linda Drew" ; "Koning, Paul A" ; Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2002 10:32 AM Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] lantana > Thank you for the reply. > > So if the bloom/seed cycle of the blue/purple lantana is the root cause of > the lack of robustness, then my pruning off the flower heads before the seed > set should help the plant out. Does this sound like a good plan of action? > > Paul K. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Pamela Tremain Koch [mailto:pamela@u.arizona.edu] > Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2002 5:16 PM > To: Linda Drew; paul.a.koning@intel.com; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] lantana > > This is definately from a non-expert--but I bought some of the Yellow > Lantana last year because I read an article that they were the longest > blooming of all lantana--they were designed not to set seed as often as > other kinds and therefore their bloom period was geatly extended when > compared with most others. What you are seeing might be a result of this > extended bloom period. > > Pamela > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Linda Drew" > To: ; > Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2002 6:32 AM > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] lantana > > > > > > If possible, can you find the botanic names for the two > > lantanas that were planted? > > > > I've taken a guess here on two lantana species. > > > > Lantana camara (in shades of pink, yellow, red) is a > > tough shrub from the tropics/Caribbean. > > Light: Sun, part shade. > > Moisture: Well drained soil, drought resistant. Too much water and > > fertilizer will reduce bloom. > > Hardiness: USDA Zone 8 - 11, likes both humid and dry heat. Lantana is > > killed at 28° F, but quickly grows back. > > > > Lantana montevidenis (in purplish shades) is a less > > tough groundcover from South America. > > Light: Sun or shade, but more flowers when grown in bright sun. > > Moisture: Likes well drained light soils. > > Hardiness: USDA Zone 8 - 10; will tolerate some freezing temperatures. Top > > will die back in temperatures in the mid 20's F; frost gives the leaves a > > purple tinge; will recover in spring. > > > > Linda Drew > > Master Gardener > > > > >From: paul.a.koning@intel.com > > >To: > > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > >Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 10:57:22 -0700 (MST) > > > > > >I have some questions about the apparent hardiness difference between > blue > > >and yellow lantana. I have both planted in my front yard, the yellow > > >lantanas are flourishing, but the blue lantanas are spindly and > > >unattractive. > > > > > >Are there known hardiness issues between that I can act on? For example: > > >blue lantana need more or less water, are more sensitive to soil pH, more > > >susceptible to white fly infestations, ? > > > > > >Also does anyone have a suggestion for a full sun, low and colorful > ground > > >cover if the blue lantana don?t recover? Is the multicolor lantana any > > >hardier? > > > > > >Background information: > > >· They are planted in different beds; the landscape contractor did no > soil > > >amendment before planting. > > >· The yellow are near a red Yucca, barrel cactus and mesquite, the blue > > >near ocotillo and golden barrel cactus. > > >· The yellow lantana may get a hour of morning and evening shade but both > > >yellow and blue get unfiltered get full day sun. > > >· Both are on the same drip irrigation line. > > >· Both get white fly infestations during the summer. > > >· I use an insecticidal soap to try to control the white fly. Should I > use > > >something else? > > > > > >Any information would be greatly appreciated! > > > > > >Paul Koning > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > > >Arid_gardener mailing list > > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: > > http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Koning, Paul A" To: "'Pamela Tremain Koch'" ; "Linda Drew" ; "Koning, Paul A" ; Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2002 10:32 AM Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] lantana > Thank you for the reply. > > So if the bloom/seed cycle of the blue/purple lantana is the root cause of > the lack of robustness, then my pruning off the flower heads before the seed > set should help the plant out. Does this sound like a good plan of action? > > Paul K. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Pamela Tremain Koch [mailto:pamela@u.arizona.edu] > Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2002 5:16 PM > To: Linda Drew; paul.a.koning@intel.com; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] lantana > > This is definately from a non-expert--but I bought some of the Yellow > Lantana last year because I read an article that they were the longest > blooming of all lantana--they were designed not to set seed as often as > other kinds and therefore their bloom period was geatly extended when > compared with most others. What you are seeing might be a result of this > extended bloom period. > > Pamela > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Linda Drew" > To: ; > Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2002 6:32 AM > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] lantana > > > > > > If possible, can you find the botanic names for the two > > lantanas that were planted? > > > > I've taken a guess here on two lantana species. > > > > Lantana camara (in shades of pink, yellow, red) is a > > tough shrub from the tropics/Caribbean. > > Light: Sun, part shade. > > Moisture: Well drained soil, drought resistant. Too much water and > > fertilizer will reduce bloom. > > Hardiness: USDA Zone 8 - 11, likes both humid and dry heat. Lantana is > > killed at 28° F, but quickly grows back. > > > > Lantana montevidenis (in purplish shades) is a less > > tough groundcover from South America. > > Light: Sun or shade, but more flowers when grown in bright sun. > > Moisture: Likes well drained light soils. > > Hardiness: USDA Zone 8 - 10; will tolerate some freezing temperatures. Top > > will die back in temperatures in the mid 20's F; frost gives the leaves a > > purple tinge; will recover in spring. > > > > Linda Drew > > Master Gardener > > > > >From: paul.a.koning@intel.com > > >To: > > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > >Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 10:57:22 -0700 (MST) > > > > > >I have some questions about the apparent hardiness difference between > blue > > >and yellow lantana. I have both planted in my front yard, the yellow > > >lantanas are flourishing, but the blue lantanas are spindly and > > >unattractive. > > > > > >Are there known hardiness issues between that I can act on? For example: > > >blue lantana need more or less water, are more sensitive to soil pH, more > > >susceptible to white fly infestations, ? > > > > > >Also does anyone have a suggestion for a full sun, low and colorful > ground > > >cover if the blue lantana don?t recover? Is the multicolor lantana any > > >hardier? > > > > > >Background information: > > >· They are planted in different beds; the landscape contractor did no > soil > > >amendment before planting. > > >· The yellow are near a red Yucca, barrel cactus and mesquite, the blue > > >near ocotillo and golden barrel cactus. > > >· The yellow lantana may get a hour of morning and evening shade but both > > >yellow and blue get unfiltered get full day sun. > > >· Both are on the same drip irrigation line. > > >· Both get white fly infestations during the summer. > > >· I use an insecticidal soap to try to control the white fly. Should I > use > > >something else? > > > > > >Any information would be greatly appreciated! > > > > > >Paul Koning > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > > >Arid_gardener mailing list > > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: > > http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From vakug@earthlink.net Fri Feb 8 04:19:13 2002 From: vakug@earthlink.net (vakug@earthlink.net) Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 21:19:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202080419.g184JDD20205@Ag.arizona.edu> We have a grapefruit tree that has nice fruit on it, but are almost tasteless. Is this due to not enough water or not enough fertilizer, or what? When DO you put fertilizer on them and how often? From jkasko@getnet.net Fri Feb 8 12:52:14 2002 From: jkasko@getnet.net (jkasko) Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 05:52:14 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200201181958.g0IJwRe28937@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <004701c1b09f$6f394f40$fc22893f@oemcomputer> ka ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 12:58 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I areceived a miniature evergreen as a gift. The paperwork says it may be transplanted outdoors. My questions are how large will it grow and will it really survive our summer heat? I have an area with afternoon shade that might work, if it doesn't grow to 10 feet!! Many thanks for your help. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Feb 8 16:11:44 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 11:11:44 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit Tree, fertilizing and watering Message-ID: <76.170e4c96.299552c0@aol.com> --part1_76.170e4c96.299552c0_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit A mature grapefruit tree should be fertilized three to four times a year at the rate of one pound of actual nitrogen per year. Using a fertilizer with an analysis of 21/0/0 you would apply five pounds per year. If you live in the low desert and you have a clay soil you should be applying approximately six inches of water to the entire root zone of the tree once per week in the summer. In the winter apply the same amount of water but extend the interval to three to four weeks. Too much fertilizer or not enough water could cause a taste problem. An excellent bullitin titled Citrus Trees in the Home Garden is available for $1.00 from Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_76.170e4c96.299552c0_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit A mature grapefruit tree should be fertilized three to four times a year at the rate of one pound of actual nitrogen per year. Using a fertilizer with an analysis of 21/0/0 you would apply five pounds per year. If you live in the low desert and you have a clay soil you should be applying approximately six inches of water to the entire root zone of the tree once per week in the summer. In the winter apply the same amount of water but extend the interval to three to four weeks.
    Too much fertilizer or not enough water could cause a taste problem.

    An excellent bullitin titled Citrus Trees in the Home Garden is available for $1.00 from Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040.

    Good luck

    Rod McKusick
    Master Gardener
    --part1_76.170e4c96.299552c0_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Feb 8 16:23:31 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 11:23:31 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Evergreen tree Message-ID: <21.18ae50d6.29955583@aol.com> --part1_21.18ae50d6.29955583_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If you will give us the botanical name or even the common name of your tree and where you live we should be able to help you as to size and envirement required. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_21.18ae50d6.29955583_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If you will give us the botanical name or even the common name of your tree and where you live we should be able to help you as to size and envirement required.

    Good luck

    Rod McKusick
    Master Gardener

    --part1_21.18ae50d6.29955583_boundary-- From aj2573@aol.com Fri Feb 8 16:33:55 2002 From: aj2573@aol.com (aj2573@aol.com) Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 09:33:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202081633.g18GXtD15372@Ag.arizona.edu> What is a good foundation plant that is colorful to be planted in a western exposure? From kidolibrarian@yahoo.com Fri Feb 8 17:38:31 2002 From: kidolibrarian@yahoo.com (kidolibrarian@yahoo.com) Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 10:38:31 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202081738.g18HcVD00461@Ag.arizona.edu> We live in Tempe. Our problem is that we have taken out a big shade tree recently (an old mulberry)and would like to replace that space with another tree that offers shade. We were wondering if there are any type of fruit trees that also double as a shade tree in the back yard. From mariannehuber@cableone.net Fri Feb 8 18:09:13 2002 From: mariannehuber@cableone.net (mariannehuber@cableone.net) Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 11:09:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202081809.g18I9DD07263@Ag.arizona.edu> What is the gardening climate zone for Prescott,AZ? From mariannehuber@cableone.net Fri Feb 8 18:09:14 2002 From: mariannehuber@cableone.net (mariannehuber@cableone.net) Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 11:09:14 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202081809.g18I9ED07268@Ag.arizona.edu> What is the gardening climate zone for Prescott,AZ? From m.myer@rraz.net Fri Feb 8 18:57:23 2002 From: m.myer@rraz.net (m.myer@rraz.net) Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 11:57:23 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202081857.g18IvND18849@Ag.arizona.edu> I live in Lake Havasu City - when should I fertilize my citrus trees? Our highs are in the low 70's and going up, and our lows are in low 40's. Thank you. From phg@citieswestpub.com Fri Feb 8 18:58:28 2002 From: phg@citieswestpub.com (phg@citieswestpub.com) Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 11:58:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202081858.g18IwRD19139@Ag.arizona.edu> When does one harvest cauliflower out here? I planted some seedlings in fall, and now I'm starting to see the white of the cauliflower forming, but have no idea when to pick it. Also, when should you harvest cabbage? From brady4848@aol.com Sat Feb 9 00:54:26 2002 From: brady4848@aol.com (brady4848@aol.com) Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 17:54:26 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202090054.g190sQc00857@Ag.arizona.edu> Is there anything I can do to help my 24 bougevalia's recover from almost total leaf loss due to quick frost earlier this week? Thanks JB From brady4848@aol.com Sat Feb 9 00:54:58 2002 From: brady4848@aol.com (brady4848@aol.com) Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 17:54:58 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202090054.g190swc00967@Ag.arizona.edu> Is there anything I can do to help my 24 bougevalia's recover from almost total leaf loss due to quick frost earlier this week? Thanks Joe Brady From Phylfern11@aol.com Sat Feb 9 01:08:10 2002 From: Phylfern11@aol.com (Phylfern11@aol.com) Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 18:08:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202090108.g1918Ac02485@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like to know the fertilizing and watering methods fdor new citrus trees just planted by a nursery 2 weeks ago and also for the same for an early elberta peach tree. Thank you From MilesAZ@aol.com Sat Feb 9 04:27:15 2002 From: MilesAZ@aol.com (MilesAZ@aol.com) Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 21:27:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202090427.g194RFi13824@Ag.arizona.edu> Is there a list of plants which grow well in less than 7 hours of sun each day, and grow no more than 3 - 4 feet in height? From gschulte@infinet-is.com Sat Feb 9 04:37:08 2002 From: gschulte@infinet-is.com (gschulte@infinet-is.com) Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 21:37:08 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202090437.g194b8i14398@Ag.arizona.edu> Can you tell me why the fruit of our orange trees is so dry. The trees are only in a few years now, but were better last year. They are semi dwarf valencias. The early one was ready in late December or early January a year ago. But they are tasting somewhat green this year in February. Are these two problems related? What can we do to prevent this next winter? Thanks From beeb524@aol.com Sat Feb 9 08:56:44 2002 From: beeb524@aol.com (beeb524@aol.com) Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 01:56:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202090856.g198uii04278@Ag.arizona.edu> I planted (what was tagged as) a blood orange tree about 6 years ago. We've gotten fruit on the tree for the first time this year. Although the oranges are extremely sweet, they are not red. Why? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Feb 9 15:01:18 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2002 15:01:18 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] blood orange, no red color Message-ID: >From: beeb524@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 01:56:44 -0700 (MST) > >I planted (what was tagged as) a blood orange tree about 6 years ago. >We've gotten fruit on the tree for the first time this year. Although the >oranges are extremely sweet, they are not red. Why? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Pigmented oranges (blood oranges) are dependent on cool temperatures to produce the red color in the fruit and sometimes the peel. Because of this some varieties produce little or no color in the Salt River Valley. The variety that produces the most consistent dark red internal color here is Salustiana. _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From umiller@azdps.com Sat Feb 9 15:18:52 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 08:18:52 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvillea Frost Damage In-Reply-To: <200202090054.g190swc00967@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Joe - This happened to me, too - this year and a couple of years ago. I did nothing. Once the weather warmed up, the bush started turning green again. If there are some branches that are clearly frost damaged, you may want to cut them off next month. Maybe one of the master gardeners has some other good advice, but this worked for me - not a master gardener, just sometime trying to keep things growing. Also, you can go to this site and type in bougainvillea frost damage and search previous archives for information on this topic (or any other topic on gardening in the arid west: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of brady4848@aol.com Sent: Friday, February 08, 2002 5:55 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Is there anything I can do to help my 24 bougevalia's recover from almost total leaf loss due to quick frost earlier this week? Thanks Joe Brady _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Feb 9 15:20:55 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2002 15:20:55 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] citrus, dry fruit Message-ID: Your fruit could be dry for several reasons -- perhaps the tree did not get enough water when the fruit were rapidly growing, or a night or two of cold temperatures with the tree unprotected can result in dry fruit. Sometimes the root stock used can affect the fruit. I would suspect that the fruit got too much cold this year. I would recommend taking good care of the trees, especially regarding adequate watering and fertilizing 3 times (February, May and September). Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: gschulte@infinet-is.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 21:37:08 -0700 (MST) > >Can you tell me why the fruit of our orange trees is so dry. The trees are >only in a few years now, but were better last year. They are semi dwarf >valencias. The early one was ready in late December or early January a >year ago. But they are tasting somewhat green this year in February. Are >these two problems related? What can we do to prevent this next winter? >Thanks > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Feb 9 15:27:30 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2002 15:27:30 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] plant lists Message-ID: >From: MilesAZ@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 21:27:15 -0700 (MST) > >Is there a list of plants which grow well in less than 7 hours of sun each >day, and grow no more than 3 - 4 feet in height? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener "Flower Planting Guide For the Low Desert" includes information about light requirements. Check for this and other publications at: http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening and select "publications" Check your local library for books on desert gardening. Judi Meilke's book has lists in the back, including a list of plants that do not need full sun. Linda Drew Master Gardener _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Feb 9 15:32:29 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2002 15:32:29 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] citrus care Message-ID: Univ. of Arizona publishes an excellent bulletin titled Citrus trees in the Home Garden which should answer most of your questions about citrus and is available for $1.00 from Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Phylfern11@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 18:08:10 -0700 (MST) > >I would like to know the fertilizing and watering methods fdor new citrus >trees just planted by a nursery 2 weeks ago and also for the same for an >early elberta peach tree. Thank you > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From robert.mongrain@amec.com Sat Feb 9 21:41:41 2002 From: robert.mongrain@amec.com (robert.mongrain@amec.com) Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 14:41:41 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202092141.g19LfPi07038@Ag.arizona.edu> I did not complete a major pruning for my roses last year, and they are moderately large (up to 5.5 feet tall and 3-5 feet around). I would like to complete a major pruning, as the plants appear somewhat overgrown, but am concerned about taking out too much from the plants at once. Should I prune them back in stages, or cut them back to several canes all at once? From gordonphillips1@netzero.net Sat Feb 9 22:12:12 2002 From: gordonphillips1@netzero.net (gordonphillips1@netzero.net) Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 15:12:12 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202092212.g19MCCi09656@Ag.arizona.edu> Does anybody have recommendations for a Windows software package that will do Xeriscaping in the Mesa area? From lafnepf@aol.com Sun Feb 10 04:09:28 2002 From: lafnepf@aol.com (lafnepf@aol.com) Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 21:09:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200202100409.g1A49Si12641@Ag.arizona.edu> Can you tell me anything about "Surecrop Nectarine"......for the Phoenix area. Also, is it self-pollinating? From dealejandro_family@yahoo.com Sun Feb 10 05:26:06 2002 From: dealejandro_family@yahoo.com (Edward & Jackee De Alejandro) Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 22:26:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tomatoes In-Reply-To: <004001c1aeb8$2d206dc0$c8d8323f@oemcomputer> Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C1B1B8.C462E980 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Just picked up Early Girl and Heat wave varieties of tomato at Lowe's in Surprise. I have never grown either variety. I am hoping the Early Girl will give the first few crops and the Heat wave to last until July/Aug....we will see though. Please let me know if anyone has had any luck with growing Heat wave during the summer and how it tastes. I bought some Brandywine seeds and am going to try them out. I don't have the first clue about that variety....just want to see what happens. I do have a question: What exactly kills the pollen during the summer, the sun or the heat? Will planting the tomato on the east side with morning sun and afternoon shade make any difference? How about shade cloth or misters for plants on the west or south side? I have read the book Desert Gardening and it doesn't answer my question. Thanks so much for you guys' help!!!!! Jackee www.dealejandro.com -----Original Message----- From: Tom & Linda Watson [mailto:watsontl@mindspring.com] Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2002 7:44 PM To: