From j_harrell@NetZero.net Tue Jan 1 17:41:16 2002 From: j_harrell@NetZero.net (Jackie and Bill Harrell) Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2002 10:41:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Virus from me! Message-ID: <3C31F4BC.672A6A7B@NetZero.net> Dear Everybody, This is Happy New Year and a fine how d'y do - I am so sorry, but Sunday night December 30 I took in a virus, the W32.magistr, and apparently my computer gleefully passed it on to many of you in my address book. Mea culpa, mea culpa! I'm so sorry, but the crazy e-mail and attachments that have gone out are not my intention. This is to alert you to update your anti-virus stuff and to SCAN and get rid of it, if it arrived. I truly hope this will not cause too great an inconvenience! And I do hope the rest of your 2002 is Virus Free! Sincerely, Jackie Harrell ---------------------------------------------------- Sign Up for NetZero Platinum Today Only $9.95 per month! http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97 From jkandell@twistedclicks.com Wed Jan 2 12:25:31 2002 From: jkandell@twistedclicks.com (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 05:25:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] plant tomatoes early or on time? Message-ID: <000801c19388$9ca0be20$90a20404@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C1934D.E5397F40 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Like many of you, I face a really short tomato season March - June, with = not many tomatoes by the time it gets hot, so this year I'm starting = seed a month early. Question: Is it better to plant standard-sized = tomato seedlings (7 weeks) a month early in e.g. wall o waters or = plastic-wrapped cages; or is it better to keep them inside an extra = three or four weeks until the regular planting time? My fear is that = putting them in early, even under plastic, they'll just sit there, = whereas inside they'd continue growing. Then again, I've heard many = warnings about growing seedlings beyond 6-8 weeks. jk ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C1934D.E5397F40 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Like many of you, I face a really short tomato = season=20 March - June, with not many tomatoes by the time it gets hot, so = this year=20 I'm starting seed a month early.  Question: Is it better to plant=20 standard-sized tomato seedlings (7 weeks) a month early in e.g. wall o = waters or=20 plastic-wrapped cages; or is it better to keep them inside an extra = three or=20 four weeks until the regular planting time?  My fear is that = putting them=20 in early, even under plastic, they'll just sit there, whereas inside = they'd=20 continue growing.  Then again, I've heard many warnings about = growing=20 seedlings beyond 6-8 weeks.
 
jk
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C1934D.E5397F40-- From crymer@Ag.arizona.edu Wed Jan 2 17:16:40 2002 From: crymer@Ag.arizona.edu (Cathy Rymer) Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 10:16:40 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Blood Oranges In-Reply-To: <3C2E5D91.ECD06275@home.com> References: <11b.942bcfe.295f859f@aol.com> Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20020102100820.00a8be40@ag.arizona.edu> Hi Alan, Pigmented oranges (blood oranges) are dependent on cool temperatures to produce the red color in the fruit and sometimes the peel. Because of this some varieties produce little or no color in the Salt River Valley. The variety that produces the most consistent dark red internal color here is Salustiana. Taste is a matter of personal preference. Why not make plans to attend the Citrus and Fruit Clinic on Saturday, January 26 in Mesa. This event is held annually by the University of Arizona and has seminars on a variety of topics dealing with citrus and fruit in Arizona. Faculty and staff from the University will present the sessions. The most popular session is the "taste testing" where you can sample fruits of trees you might be considering planting in your yard. Details are available at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/calendar/citrus-e.htm The following Saturday morning the event will be repeated on the west side of town at the University of Arizona Citrus Research Center in Waddell. I hope this helps. Kind regards, Cathy At 05:19 PM 12/29/2001 -0700, GizmoAZ wrote: >Hi, > >I'm wondering if anyone here grows Blood Oranges? I am in >particular interested in the variety "Ruby Blood Orange". I >used my Christmas money and bought a Ruby Blood Orange at >Greenfield Citrus nurseries. When I went there, my intent was >to buy a Moro Blood Orange. I was informed by the staff at >Greenfield that Moro Blood Oranges did not perform as well in >our desert climate as they do on the coast, and the Ruby was >recommended in place of Moro. I was told it gets much redder >than Moro, and produces a much sweeter juice. Anyone care to >elaborate or share their experiences with both Blood Oranges >in general, and the Ruby Blood Orange, if you have that >variety. > >Thanks, >----- >Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 > >http://www.gizmoaz.com >Over 200 Roses and 125 Different varieties! Never a dull >moment!! >Check out the Garden Cams on Saturday and Sunday!! >-- > No matter how fast your PC is, Microsoft will find a way to >slow it down > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Catherine Rymer Instructional Specialist, Sr., Urban Horticulture University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Phoenix, AZ 85040 http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ From crymer@Ag.arizona.edu Wed Jan 2 18:25:56 2002 From: crymer@Ag.arizona.edu (Cathy Rymer) Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 11:25:56 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Virus from me! In-Reply-To: <3C31F4BC.672A6A7B@NetZero.net> Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20020102105848.00a20f00@ag.arizona.edu> Happy New Year!, Jackie Harrell was concerned that a virus may have been send to the arid_gardener list serve from her address book. Not to worry. Each message sent to the arid_gardener list by a non-subscriber, requires approval from one of the list managers before it is posted. The message containing the virus was rejected before it could be sent to the list. This is just one of the measures we take to prevent spam messages and viruses from reaching our subscribers. Its good to know the system is working. Kind regards, Cathy At 10:41 AM 01/01/2002 -0700, Jackie and Bill Harrell wrote: >Dear Everybody, > > This is Happy New Year and a fine how d'y do - I am so sorry, but >Sunday night December 30 I took in a virus, the W32.magistr, and >apparently my computer gleefully passed it on to many of you in my >address book. Mea culpa, mea culpa! I'm so sorry, but the crazy e-mail >and attachments that have gone out are not my intention. > > This is to alert you to update your anti-virus stuff and to SCAN and >get rid of it, if it arrived. I truly hope this will not cause too >great an inconvenience! And I do hope the rest of your 2002 is Virus >Free! Catherine Rymer Instructional Specialist, Sr., Urban Horticulture University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Phoenix, AZ 85040 http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ From bergerond@msn.com Wed Jan 2 18:41:53 2002 From: bergerond@msn.com (bergerond@msn.com) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 11:41:53 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201021841.g02Ifrn07781@Ag.arizona.edu> I know apple trees like to live somewhere other than deserts but it happens to be my favorite fruit (Mackintosh). I'd love to plant the one which might do well in our arid climate and would really appreciate your advice. I live in NW Phoenix area where the soil is a bit gravely and non-irrigated, if that is a factor. Thanks, Diane From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Jan 2 19:16:11 2002 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 12:16:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Apples in NW Phoenix References: <200201021841.g02Ifrn07781@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <008201c193c3$2a25a320$7f50530c@j0r9501> The main problems with growing apples here is the winter chill needed during the dormant period. Chill hours are defined as the number of hours at 45 degrees F and under. McIntosh requires 900 chill hours. We will sometimes get as many as 600 hours but the past few years it has been much less. Low chill varieties sometimes recommended are Anna (200-300 hours), Dorsett Golden (250 hours), and Ein Shemer (350 hours). A pollenizer such as Dorsett Golden is often recommended for Anna. Although these desert-grown apples are botanically classified as apples, if you are particularly fond of McIntosh, Jonathan, Winesap, et al, you would probably be disappointed with Anna which is the only one of the three that is very productive. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: To> I know apple trees like to live somewhere other than deserts but it happens to be my favorite fruit (Mackintosh). I'd love to plant the one which might do well in our arid climate and would really appreciate your advice. I live in NW Phoenix area where the soil is a bit gravely and non-irrigated, if that is a factor. > Thanks, > Diane From dmkerr2@home.com Thu Jan 3 16:14:48 2002 From: dmkerr2@home.com (Kerr Family) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 09:14:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Where did the white flies go? Message-ID: <002301c19471$c4578590$328e0541@cx89858a> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0020_01C19437.17C93920 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable This year, I haven't seen any white flies. They were so numerous in = past years. Anyone know why? ------=_NextPart_000_0020_01C19437.17C93920 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
This year, I haven't seen any white = flies. =20 They were so numerous in past years.  Anyone know=20 why?
------=_NextPart_000_0020_01C19437.17C93920-- From bayers@honors.arizona.edu Thu Jan 3 19:01:52 2002 From: bayers@honors.arizona.edu (Jim Bayers) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 12:01:52 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Chilean Mesquite Pruning Message-ID: I need to prune my Chilean Mesquite. It's it's first year and it's not growning quite the way I had hoped. I thought the leaves would fall off, but so far, they haven't. Is it a good time to prune such a thing? I'm in Tucson. Thanks. From marisadei@yahoo.com Thu Jan 3 21:08:17 2002 From: marisadei@yahoo.com (marisadei@yahoo.com) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 14:08:17 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201032108.g03L8Gn05639@Ag.arizona.edu> how do you propagate a mango plant from seed?I bought mangos this summer, ate the fruit and kept the large pits. do these pits have a chance of becoming plants? From marisadei@yahoo.com Thu Jan 3 21:09:46 2002 From: marisadei@yahoo.com (marisadei@yahoo.com) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 14:09:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201032109.g03L9kn05927@Ag.arizona.edu> how do you propagate a mango plant from seed?I bought mangos this summer, ate the fruit and kept the large pits. do these pits have a chance of becoming plants? sincerely, marisa From kcaudle@lsdaz.com Thu Jan 3 21:10:48 2002 From: kcaudle@lsdaz.com (kcaudle@lsdaz.com) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 14:10:48 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201032110.g03LAmn06186@Ag.arizona.edu> Where to go to purchase dwarf peach tree and best variety, also dwarf lime tree and best variety. Thank you From marisadei@yahoo.com Thu Jan 3 21:15:35 2002 From: marisadei@yahoo.com (marisadei@yahoo.com) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 14:15:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201032115.g03LFZn06962@Ag.arizona.edu> how do you propagate mangos from seed? i bought mangos this summer, ate the fruit and kept the large pits. do these pits have a chance of becoming plants again? sincerely marisa d.i. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Jan 3 21:51:26 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 16:51:26 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Chilean Mesquite Pruning Message-ID: <4c.4621529.29662c5e@aol.com> --part1_4c.4621529.29662c5e_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Desert adapted trees are bettered pruned during the summer or when it is much warmer than it is in January. Leaf drop on the Chilean Mesquite usually happens after freezing or near freezing weather. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_4c.4621529.29662c5e_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Desert adapted trees are bettered pruned during the summer or when it is much warmer than it is in January. Leaf drop on the Chilean Mesquite usually happens after freezing or near freezing weather.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_4c.4621529.29662c5e_boundary-- From kelleejb@yahoo.com Thu Jan 3 22:09:57 2002 From: kelleejb@yahoo.com (kelleejb@yahoo.com) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 15:09:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201032209.g03M9vn17229@Ag.arizona.edu> Hi, I have approximately 150 glad bulbs that are all different colors. Last year all of the flowers came up the same color. The flowers themselves were white with a deep purple in the middle of them. I do know that I have atleast 5 of these same colored ones. I plant them in groups of 5. I leave them in the ground all yr and usually in Jan to Feb I rake about an 1 or 1 1/2 inches of dirt out and sprinkle bone meal and then cover them back up with a mixture of 50% dirt and 50% potting soil. After they come up and are about 6 inches tall I will feed them Miracle Grow. What do I need to do to make sure that they all come up this year being the color that they are suppose to? I also water them probably about every other day once it heats up more. Thank you. Kellee From mgdlite37d@aol.com Thu Jan 3 23:17:28 2002 From: mgdlite37d@aol.com (mgdlite37d@aol.com) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 16:17:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201032317.g03NHSn00648@Ag.arizona.edu> Hi folks, Might be having a problem with my mesquite tree of 7 years old. Live at Tatum & Dynimite N. Phoenix. Landscapers originally planted a 15 Gal mesquite in my front yard (facing west) with a dripline with a 2gal emiter. The tree grew fast quick and large, and the watering schedule during summer set at 4 days a week. I finally I cut the water off about 2 years ago with a spread of about 25 foot in diameter and about 35 high. The problem I'm having for the past 2 years is in winter it drops clean all of its leaves then comes back beautiful in the spring and through the summer. Others (mesquite trees) in my area seem not to drop leaves like mine of the same spcies and size. Is it the watering that I shut down the problem??????. Thanks Sal From umiller@azdps.com Thu Jan 3 21:55:51 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 14:55:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Chilean Mesquite Dropping Leaves In-Reply-To: <200201032317.g03NHSn00648@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Sal - Mesquites drop their leaves in winter so that's normal. Mine tends to do it later; it hasn't started dropping any yet. But within a month it'll be raining those green/yellow little leaves. So, not to worry, it's just nature doing it's annual housecleaning. I don't know about the other mesquites in your neighborhood. All the ones in my neighborhood drop their leaflets. Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of mgdlite37d@aol.com Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 4:17 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hi folks, Might be having a problem with my mesquite tree of 7 years old. Live at Tatum & Dynimite N. Phoenix. Landscapers originally planted a 15 Gal mesquite in my front yard (facing west) with a dripline with a 2gal emiter. The tree grew fast quick and large, and the watering schedule during summer set at 4 days a week. I finally I cut the water off about 2 years ago with a spread of about 25 foot in diameter and about 35 high. The problem I'm having for the past 2 years is in winter it drops clean all of its leaves then comes back beautiful in the spring and through the summer. Others (mesquite trees) in my area seem not to drop leaves like mine of the same spcies and size. Is it the watering that I shut down the problem??????. Thanks Sal _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From tamhankins@aol.com Fri Jan 4 03:59:38 2002 From: tamhankins@aol.com (tamhankins@aol.com) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 20:59:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201040359.g043xcn05585@Ag.arizona.edu> My question concerns tomatillos. What type of tomatillo does best in the Phoenix area? My 2000 season plants had lots of fruits, a friend of mine gave me those seeds. Then in 2001 I bought some seeds from Burpee that had alot of flowers but absoltly no ftuit.I have since thrown those seeds away. Can someone help me. Thank you, Chris From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri Jan 4 04:23:29 2002 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 21:23:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Where did the white flies go? References: <002301c19471$c4578590$328e0541@cx89858a> Message-ID: <010201c194d9$add64780$2f50530c@j0r9501> Probably better control in the melon fields and cotton fields in the valley. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kerr Family" To: Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 9:14 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Where did the white flies go? This year, I haven't seen any white flies. They were so numerous in past years. Anyone know why? From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri Jan 4 04:49:00 2002 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 21:49:00 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: plant tomatoes early or on time? References: <001001c1946e$e0f74760$bca20404@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <000501c194db$22762000$2f50530c@j0r9501> In the Phoenix area tomatoes will grow just fine under plastic during the winter months but somewhat slower than in the spring out in the open because of less light during the short winter days. If you can plant one gallon sized tomatoes before blooming about Feb 1 you have a better chance of getting a good yield with mid season indeterminate types. But with short season determinate bushes, one may as well wait to plant out until the end of Feb when freeze protection is usually not required. The Phoenix area is in the low desert at about 1092 feet in USDA Cold Hardiness Zone 9b, Sunset Zone 13, and AZ Plant Climate Zone 5 (according to http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1169.pdf ). At 2584 feet, USDA Zone 8, Sunset 12, and AZ Plant Climate Zone 4, Tucson could be considered mid desert. Note that these climate and hardiness zones all use different criteria to define the zones but all still place Phoenix and Phoenix in different zones. It seems one could achieve similar results in Tucson by planting about 3 weeks later but, given Tucson's December 2001 average low of 31 deg (according to the AZMET site) and the 22 deg recorded on Dec 26, I would hesitate to make any recommendation for Tucson. Should note that at our NW Phoenix location, winter lows are typically 5 deg cooler than the official airport lows but highs are about the same. And the temps in the garden amongst all the vegetation is still different from that at our backyard thermometer location. So I would tend to use the published zone designation as a guide, not as an absolute Why not experiment and try it both ways? Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: Jonathan Kandell To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 5:25 AM Subject: plant tomatoes early or on time? >Like many of you, I face a really short tomato season March - June, with >not many tomatoes by the time it gets hot, so this year I'm starting >seed a month early. Question: Is it better to plant standard-sized >tomato seedlings (7 weeks) a month early in e.g. wall o waters or >plastic-wrapped cages; or is it better to keep them inside an extra >three or four weeks until the regular planting time? My fear is that >putting them in early, even under plastic, they'll just sit there, >whereas inside they'd continue growing. Then again, I've heard many >warnings about growing seedlings beyond 6-8 weeks. From gretchendell@home.com Fri Jan 4 14:48:03 2002 From: gretchendell@home.com (gretchendell@home.com) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 07:48:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201041448.g04Em3n03665@Ag.arizona.edu> 2 questions- 1)I have a cala lilly that has survived for 2 years in a somewhat shady location, however it has not bloomed. What type of fertilizer should I provide, how often? 2)I am looking for suggestions for landscape plants in a difficult area of a side yard. The area is South facing, against the house and at the bottom of a slope. There is turf grass on the slope area, therefore the area in questions is very wet from run-off. From kimlincoln@aol.com Fri Jan 4 16:11:58 2002 From: kimlincoln@aol.com (kimlincoln@aol.com) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 09:11:58 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201041611.g04GBwn19376@Ag.arizona.edu> What is the best type of eating orange tree to plant? I live in North Phoenix. I've heard Valentia, Arizona Sweets, and even Navel. What is an "Arizona Sweets" orange? And I've read that there are several varieties. Please recommend an awesome orange tree for a first time grower of citrus. Thank you. Kim Lincoln From donbeets@msn.com Fri Jan 4 19:10:59 2002 From: donbeets@msn.com (donbeets@msn.com) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 12:10:59 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201041910.g04JAxn24657@Ag.arizona.edu> The tree in our front yard is supposed to be an evergreen elm.Since being planted,the top half has lost it's foliage and looks as if the tree is dying.Is this normal for this type tree.if not what can be done to correct this condition.any soggestions welcomed From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Jan 4 19:38:03 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 19:38:03 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] citrus varieties Message-ID: For a list of recommended citrus varieties, check http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/ If you can, attend one of the citrus tasting days coming up. Information is available at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ Here is an earlier answer in the archives from Dawn Kazmer: The Cooperative Extension has a bulletin called Citrus Varieties for our area that lists and comments of varieous citrus. In January, they held a tasting session at the Fruit Field Day. Personally, I have Triveta (ripens January), and Valencia (ripens March) oranges, pink grapefruit, very seedy unknown orange that drops fruit early and is going to be removed when Triveta and Valencia get bigger, Minneola Tangelo (ripens January but hangs on at least through now)....still testing and Kinnow tangerine (ripens January but hangs on at least through now)....still testing, Lisbon lemon and Bears lime. This is probably too much citrus when they mature because the one grapefruit is mature and certainly enough for 3 families. They are very green trees that give almost no trouble and I love them. I have tried to plant dwarf trees and, it appears that the Kinnow and Bear's lime actually are going to be dwarf................. I chose Flying Dragon root stock for the two oranges and expect that they will also actually be dwarf. My plan is to keep the others as compact as possible without distorting their natural shapes. Grapefruit is the easiest citrus to grow near Phoenix. The Kinnow has more seeds than the Minneola and my vote would be for the Minneola and Grapefruit but Trevita is very popular with many people who have only two trees. My Trevita is less than one year in the ground and I can not speak of it from experience. >From: kimlincoln@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 09:11:58 -0700 (MST) > >What is the best type of eating orange tree to plant? I live in North >Phoenix. I've heard Valentia, Arizona Sweets, and even Navel. What is an >"Arizona Sweets" orange? And I've read that there are several varieties. >Please recommend an awesome orange tree for a first time grower of citrus. >Thank you. Kim Lincoln > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Jan 4 21:23:03 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 14:23:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruing Mesquite References: <200112281845.fBSIjEn10450@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C361D36.25C90AC4@qwest.net> A good reference is Eric Johnson's Pruning Planting & Care. His focus is on plants that grow in the desert southwest. Check the library or local book store In the meantime the MG Manual has general guidance at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/pruning/index.html Removing larger limbs for tree shaping is best done Feb/Mar to minimize sap ooze. Thereafter, pruning is done in the hotter season to maintain what can become excessive vegetative growth. The biggest culprit is more water than the tree needs, so go easy on the agua and minimize a sweaty summertime chore! It saves the landfills too. Linda Guy, MG houseofblue@yahoo.com wrote: > Can you send me instructions on how to prune a chilean mesquite? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Jan 4 21:27:12 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 14:27:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lawn for Shade References: <000c01c1900c$453e4280$9cd256d1@0019687347> Message-ID: <3C361E2F.E7D0F426@qwest.net> --------------005E4BC0B11F060F5D1C9D1D Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bermuda won't handle the shade. There are a number of replies that you can access in the archives section of our website and here is one of them to get you started. http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2001-March/006811.html Linda Guy, MG roger vail wrote: > Hi Linda, I know we just entered the winter season but > Spring in our area is just around the corner..My question is last > summer my Bermuda came in very sparingly.As you may have guessed my > backyard is about 75% shade now.I need some ideas on what type of > shade grass is used for the summer if any.The area needed to cover is > about 1000 square feet..Any suggestions would be greatly > appreciated....I don't want to go another summer with most of the yard > being > dirt. > Thank > You > Susan --------------005E4BC0B11F060F5D1C9D1D Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bermuda won't handle the shade. There are a number of replies that you can access in the archives section of our website and here is one of them to get you started.
http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2001-March/006811.html

Linda Guy, MG
 

roger vail wrote:

Hi Linda,            I know we just entered the winter season but Spring in our area is just around the corner..My question is last summer my Bermuda came in very sparingly.As you may have guessed my backyard is about 75% shade now.I need some ideas on what type of shade grass is used for the summer if any.The area needed to cover is about 1000 square feet..Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated....I don't want to go another summer with most of the yard being dirt.                                                                                                                                       Thank You                                                                                                                                            Susan
--------------005E4BC0B11F060F5D1C9D1D-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Jan 4 21:31:10 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 14:31:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Spacing Dwarf Nandina Plants References: <5.1.0.14.2.20011229120902.009f47c0@pop3.norton.antivirus> Message-ID: <3C361F1D.343AF379@qwest.net> Your best bet would have been to seek the information from your nursery staff, whom I'd still suggest that you call. Regular nandina can be 3-4' wide; there are numerous dwarf varieties, each with a slightly different span. If you have the name, you can check out the latest Sunset Western Garden book for the estimated dimensions. Linda Guy, MG Signa wrote: > I'd like to replace an irregularly shaped bed of iris in full sun (Tucson > street side yard) with a grouping of Dwarf Nandina. I've been looking > every winter for several years to find some that develop the lovely rich > red winter color and finally found some today in a local nursery. I want > them to form, when mature, an informal grouping of separated and distinct > (from one another) low "mounds" rather than a massed planting where they > all run into one another. How far apart do I want to space them to get the > effect I'm after? I.e., how wide should I expect each individual bush to > spread? > > Signa > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Jan 4 21:32:00 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 16:32:00 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Evergreen Elm (Ulmus parvifolia) Message-ID: <47.160420be.29677950@aol.com> --part1_47.160420be.29677950_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The Evergreen Elm is cold deciduous which means that when temperatures are near freezing the tree will drop its leaves. Here in the low desert (Phoenix area) it almost always happens. It is important that the Evergreen Elm be deep watered periodically to help flush the salts out of the root zone as the tree appears to be quite salt sensitive. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_47.160420be.29677950_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The Evergreen Elm is cold deciduous which means that when temperatures are near freezing the tree will drop its leaves. Here in the low desert (Phoenix area) it almost always happens.
It is important that the Evergreen Elm be deep watered periodically to help flush the salts out of the root zone as the tree appears to be quite salt sensitive.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_47.160420be.29677950_boundary-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Jan 4 21:34:16 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 14:34:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sago Palm... References: <000801c19184$66c0b360$e3a8ea18@lvcablemodem.com> Message-ID: <3C361FD7.E39DA4BF@qwest.net> --------------94FB2067FBFE62B232992ACB Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sago palms do not like direct sunlight and if this is where you have placed it, you risk losing the plant. Some have been known to take moderate morning light, and during the adjustment period, the older leaves may curl up and brown while the newer ones will prove a bit sturdier. Check out other care practices in our palm publication at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf Linda Guy, MG fotoman wrote: > Hi Linda, If you are still offering advice by email...I need help. My > Sago Palm is rather mature but recently transplanted into my garden. > It's leaves are beginning to curl. Is this an indication of too much > water, not enough water, or something else? Thanks for any assistance > you could provide! Evan PowellLas Vegas, NV --------------94FB2067FBFE62B232992ACB Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sago palms do not like direct sunlight and if this is where you have placed it, you risk losing the plant. Some have been known to take moderate morning light, and during the adjustment period, the older leaves may curl up and brown while the newer ones will prove a bit sturdier.

Check out other care practices in our palm publication at  http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf

Linda Guy, MG

fotoman wrote:

 Hi Linda, If you are still offering advice by email...I need help. My Sago Palm is rather mature but recently transplanted into my garden. It's leaves are beginning to curl. Is this an indication of too much water, not enough water, or something else? Thanks for any assistance you could provide! Evan PowellLas Vegas, NV
--------------94FB2067FBFE62B232992ACB-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Jan 4 21:37:12 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 14:37:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite Leaf Drop References: <200201032317.g03NHSn00648@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C362088.76CC21DA@qwest.net> It could be that these are different mesquites, but it could also be the microclimate that each find themselves in. My desert tress in the south yard in full winter sun hold leaves much longer and don't seem to do a 100% drop. Those on the north side of the house in a few months of winter shade generally drop before Christmas, if the weather is cool. Linda Guy, MG mgdlite37d@aol.com wrote: > Hi folks, > > Might be having a problem with my mesquite tree of 7 years old. Live at Tatum & Dynimite N. Phoenix. Landscapers originally planted a 15 Gal mesquite in my front yard (facing west) with a dripline with a 2gal emiter. The tree grew fast quick and large, and the watering schedule during summer set at 4 days a week. I finally I cut the water off about 2 years ago with a spread of about 25 foot in diameter and about 35 high. > > The problem I'm having for the past 2 years is in winter it drops clean all of its leaves then comes back beautiful in the spring and through the summer. Others (mesquite trees) in my area seem not to drop leaves like mine of the same spcies and size. Is it the watering that I shut down the problem??????. > > Thanks Sal > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Jan 4 22:02:33 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 15:02:33 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mangos References: <200201032108.g03L8Gn05639@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C362679.68F94EAE@qwest.net> If you do not receive a reply from any other members of the arid_gardener server, why don't you try the local chapter of the California Rare Fruit Growers at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/clubs.htm Good luck! Linda Guy, MG marisadei@yahoo.com wrote: > how do you propagate a mango plant from seed?I bought mangos this summer, ate the fruit and kept the large pits. do these pits have a chance of becoming plants? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Jan 4 22:05:34 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 15:05:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rabbit Control References: <200112240256.fBO2udn06775@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C36272E.99F27CD3@qwest.net> This question has been considered from time to time on this list server. May I suggest you search the archives of previous answers at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/question.htm To get you started here is one recent reply http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-June/004443.html Linda Guy, MG gwjinaz@aol.com wrote: > need infor on preventing damage from rabbits and a list of plants that rabbits stay away from and list of plants that they love Have heard of chemical Repel and moth balls but have not tried them thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From dmkerr2@home.com Fri Jan 4 22:58:28 2002 From: dmkerr2@home.com (Kerr Family) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 15:58:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Try planting tomatos early Message-ID: <002101c19573$532bed90$328e0541@cx89858a> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01C19538.A67D9600 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have had some great tomato crops planting them early. I am too cheap = to use wall-o-waters. Instead I use four one gallon milk or pool = chemical jugs arranged in a cross around the plant. Cover from 6 to 8 = am on really cold mornings. The plants grow very slowly, but are = putting out roots early in the season. They can grow huge vines, but = the flowers don't work until it gets warm. But when it does and a large = vigorous plant supports them, you won't know what to do with all the = tomatos. I had to resort to drying them and leaving bags with my = neighbors and friends at work. ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01C19538.A67D9600 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I have had some great tomato crops = planting them=20 early.  I am too cheap to use wall-o-waters.  Instead I use = four one=20 gallon milk or pool chemical jugs arranged in a cross around the = plant. =20 Cover from 6 to 8 am on really cold mornings.  The plants grow very = slowly,=20 but are putting out roots early in the season.  They can grow huge = vines,=20 but the flowers don't work until it gets warm.  But when it does = and a=20 large vigorous plant supports them, you won't know what to do with all = the=20 tomatos.  I had to resort to drying them and leaving bags with my = neighbors=20 and friends at work.
------=_NextPart_000_001E_01C19538.A67D9600-- From kcaudle@lsdaz.com Fri Jan 4 23:32:42 2002 From: kcaudle@lsdaz.com (Kathleen Caudle) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 16:32:42 -0700 Subject: FW: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: From: Kathleen Caudle [mailto:kcaudle@lsdaz.com] Sent: Friday, January 04, 2002 4:16 PM To: 'Mark Mittelstaedt' Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Thank you for your advice, I guess I should have prefaced my question with my experience being a master gardener in the past and landscape designer. I am just not sure and actually have not seen dwarf deciduous trees at any of the nurseries I have been to in the past, Bakers, Whitfil, tiptop(no longer) or the ones in mesa?? Anyway if you have any ideas let me know. Thanks Kathleen A. Tucker Senior Landscape Designer Logan Simpson Design 480.967.1343 x.160 kcaudle@lsdaz.com -----Original Message----- From: Mark Mittelstaedt [mailto:mmittelstaedt@earthlink.net] Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 8:58 PM To: Kathleen Caudle Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Where to go is not as important as selecting a tree that has a good shape. Even dwarf varieties can look good. I have a Mexican lime that I like a lot better than Bearss lime trees I have had. It won't get much more than 10 feet tall. Some of these are pretty tiny. Pick the citrus you like, then look at lots of nurseries until you find ones whose shape you like. It is almost impossible to correct a really bad shape with pruning. Spend a few more bucks, or time on the phone interrogating nursery personnel, and get nice ones when you find them - It'll be worth it over the years. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 2:10 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Where to go to purchase dwarf peach tree and best variety, also dwarf lime tree and best variety. > > Thank you > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Sat Jan 5 01:57:45 2002 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 18:57:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Locating dwarf lime tree References: Message-ID: <3C365D99.7C3612B9@qwest.net> Kathleen: Have you tried calling Greenfield Citrus Nursery? If they do not have what you want, perhaps they can direct you to someone who does? Their phone number is 480-830-8000. Not sure about the dwarf peach. Sue Bass Kathleen Caudle wrote: > From: Kathleen Caudle [mailto:kcaudle@lsdaz.com] > Sent: Friday, January 04, 2002 4:16 PM > To: 'Mark Mittelstaedt' > Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > Thank you for your advice, I guess I should have prefaced my question with > my experience being a master gardener in the past and landscape designer. I > am just not sure and actually have not seen dwarf deciduous trees at any of > the nurseries I have been to in the past, Bakers, Whitfil, tiptop(no longer) > or the ones in mesa?? Anyway if you have any ideas let me know. > Thanks > Kathleen A. Tucker > Senior Landscape Designer > Logan Simpson Design > 480.967.1343 x.160 > kcaudle@lsdaz.com > From millero@worldnet.att.net Sat Jan 5 04:48:55 2002 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 21:48:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Try planting tomatos early Message-ID: <002e01c195a4$6881d980$dc50530c@j0r9501> Very Interesting. Questions: When do you start the seed? When do you set out in garden? How big when set out? Any particular varieties? Olin Original Message From Kerr Family dmkerr2@home.com Fri, 4 Jan 2002 15:58:28 -0700 >... >I have had some great tomato crops planting them early. ... >I use four one gallon milk or pool chemical jugs arranged in a cross > around the plant. Cover from 6 to 8 am on really cold mornings. >The plants grow very slowly, but are putting out roots early in the >season. They can grow huge vines, but the flowers don't work until >it gets warm. But when it does and a large vigorous plant supports >them, you won't know what to do with all the tomatos. I had to resort >to drying them and leaving bags with my neighbors and friends at work. From valpogrl@aol.com Sat Jan 5 16:34:10 2002 From: valpogrl@aol.com (valpogrl@aol.com) Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 09:34:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201051634.g05GYAn09396@Ag.arizona.edu> Olin, I saw your questions on the tomatoes, I'm awaiting the answers too. Just thought I'd let you know what works for me (at least as far as winter tomatoes go). I plant the winter tomatoes in the large black plastic pots from the nursery (the bigger the pot the better). Then when it gets to be chilly out I move the pots by our swimming pool. The water from the pool seems to keep them warm enough although in very cold years I have strung the little twinkly xmas lights in the cages. This year I have not, nor have I covered them at night.I live in NW Phoenix and it does get cold here. The plants are still blooming and even setting fruit! Almost daily I pick ripe tomatoes. I generally use cherry or small short season varieties for winter and start my seeds in September or October. For my spring tomatoes I start them right at Christmas time. Cindy From brdando@home.com Sat Jan 5 19:14:24 2002 From: brdando@home.com (brdando@home.com) Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 12:14:24 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201051914.g05JEOn23141@Ag.arizona.edu> Hello, How much room is needed to plant a queen palm in the ground (as opposed to in a planter)? Thanks! From kschwart@Ag.arizona.edu Sat Jan 5 20:18:09 2002 From: kschwart@Ag.arizona.edu (Kerry Schwartz) Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2002 13:18:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Water Education Position in Maricopa County, AZ: Please share with anyone who might be interested! Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020105131358.01efc110@ag.arizona.edu> Environmental Educators, The University of Arizona is hiring an Instructional Specialist, Senior to be housed in Maricopa County. Please find the job announcement at http://www.hr.arizona.edu/23002xacxoutx.htm. The job number is 23002 and should be put on your cover letter and resume. The Job Application form can be found at http://www.hr.arizona.edu/jobvacan.htm. Kerry Schwartz Project WET Coordinator Water Resources Research Center The University of Arizona 350 N. Campbell Ave. Tucson, AZ 85719 voice: 520-792-9591 x22 fax: 520-792-8518 From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Jan 5 21:23:33 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 16:23:33 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palm size Message-ID: <13c.747ea9f.2968c8d5@aol.com> --part1_13c.747ea9f.2968c8d5_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The mature height of a Queen Palm here in the desert can be 30 to 40 feet and its crown width 20 to 30 feet. The mature size should be considered when planting. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_13c.747ea9f.2968c8d5_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The mature height of a Queen Palm here in the desert can be 30 to 40 feet and its crown width 20 to 30 feet. The mature size should be considered when planting.

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_13c.747ea9f.2968c8d5_boundary-- From crazgnat@hotmail.com Sat Jan 5 21:27:55 2002 From: crazgnat@hotmail.com (Natalie Nicklett) Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2002 21:27:55 Subject: [Arid_gardener] new in town Message-ID:
Hello, my name is Natalie, and I have recently moved to Tucson from Olympia, Washington.  I am passionate about local food systems, community, herbal medicinals, gardening, and cooking.  I am looking for work.  I have a degree in Ecological Agriculture from The Evergreen State College in Olympia, Washington, and much experience doing community organizing, teaching, gardening, event publicity, plant medicine making, and value added food product development and marketing.  I would appreciate it greatly if you could let me know of any job openings that you know about in the city have that would relate to my experience and interests.
Thank you,
Natalie Nicklett
(520)406-0356


Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: Click Here
From ddifran@worldnet.att.net Sat Jan 5 21:39:57 2002 From: ddifran@worldnet.att.net (ddifran@worldnet.att.net) Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 14:39:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201052139.g05Ldvn05027@Ag.arizona.edu> I believe that I am having a problem with the trees and plants in our yard due to a over or under watering condition. The landscape is relatively new in the frontyard (put in June 2001) and the backyard has only been in since Mid December. We have a Palo Verde and an Acacia tree in the frontyard. The Palo Verde seems to be doing okay while the Acacia is has dropped nearly all of its leaves over the past 2 weeks. In the back what I believe are Texas Sage are also dropping leaves (these are new plantings). The irrigation contoller was set for 30 minutes every morning and 5 minutes in the afternoon. I certainly believe that this was far too much watering so I reduced it to 5 minutes every other morning and 5 minutes every other afternoon. Our landscaper I believe set this so high because of the newly planted grass in the yard. During this time of year what would you recommend for an adequate watering schedule and did I do the right thing by reducing the watering times to 5 min am/5 min pm every other day? Thank you in advance for all of your help. From gardenguru" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0095_01C1967F.E850B1A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Test msg ------=_NextPart_000_0095_01C1967F.E850B1A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Test msg
------=_NextPart_000_0095_01C1967F.E850B1A0-- From gardenguru@peoplepc.com Sun Jan 6 14:00:37 2002 From: gardenguru@peoplepc.com (gardenguru@peoplepc.com) Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 07:00:37 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201061400.g06E0bn19481@Ag.arizona.edu> Test msg From RkBetu@aol.com Sun Jan 6 16:22:57 2002 From: RkBetu@aol.com (RkBetu@aol.com) Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 11:22:57 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] transplanting old rose Message-ID: I have a peace rose about 16 years old. For more than 10 years I never pruned it and it would become so loaded with blooms I'd have to tie it up (it was over 7' tall and nearly as wide). Several years ago, it began to shoot new branches that were a different rose (root stock?), a deep red, single petal. It was beautiful and looked like 2 different plants. I did find that the "old" red stock was highly suseptible to powdery mildew and started pruning them out. For a few years now, the bush is declining. Over 2 years time, I pruned it back to about 3' high, but it has never done well since. Due to other changes, it does not get as much sun. Leaves are smaller, few blooms, little real growth. I hate to give up on it and am wondering if it can be transplanted. How should I go about doing this? And what about the different rose showing up (it gets more and more of this "old type" branches each year)? Thank you for all your wonderful advice. Rocki, west of Sun City West From jdoddridge1@home.com Sun Jan 6 16:46:01 2002 From: jdoddridge1@home.com (jdoddridge1@home.com) Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 09:46:01 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201061646.g06Gk1n29327@Ag.arizona.edu> Could you please help me find out what kind of plant this is: It is a small bulb about the size of a pea or lima bean. The leaves are about 2 to 8 inches long, very thin and flat. The flower is white, with 6 petals, sort of flat and simple. It blooms in the fall in Phoenix and stays green year round. The bulbs clump together and form about a 8 inch diameter base with willowy, grasslike leaves. It seems to follow the sun and is planted in partial afternoon sun. The only place I have seen it is at work, in a gravel setting. If you can't tell me what it is from the description, I may be able to get a picture of it and email it to you. Thanks John Doddridge From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun Jan 6 17:30:50 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 10:30:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plant ID References: <200201061646.g06Gk1n29327@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C3889CA.5CED72BE@qwest.net> Might it be a type of rain lily [zephyranthes] which come in a multitude of colors? Some need partial shade and others are full sun. http://www.elandscape.com/lvl/lvl.html?pid=zepcan http://www.elandscape.com/lvl/lvl.html?pid=zepgra A simliar bulb is habranthus, which also comes in alot of colors. One's flower is erect [zephranthes] while the other is at right angles to the stem. Different varieties of each bloom at various times of spring through fall. Check out both at http://www.yuccado.com/ Of course, if these are small, are you perhaps looking at fall blooming crocus? Linda Guy, MG jdoddridge1@home.com wrote: > Could you please help me find out what kind of plant this is: > > It is a small bulb about the size of a pea or lima bean. The leaves are about 2 to 8 inches long, very thin and flat. The flower is white, with 6 petals, sort of flat and simple. It blooms in the fall in Phoenix and stays green year round. The bulbs clump together and form about a 8 inch diameter base with willowy, grasslike leaves. It seems to follow the sun and is planted in partial afternoon sun. > > The only place I have seen it is at work, in a gravel setting. If you can't tell me what it is from the description, I may be able to get a picture of it and email it to you. > > Thanks > > John Doddridge > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Jan 6 20:43:43 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 15:43:43 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] transplanting old rose Message-ID: <156.6d63fba.296a10ff@aol.com> --part1_156.6d63fba.296a10ff_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Rocki, The growth you are seeing on your Peace rose is the root stock, Dr Huey which is a single blooming climbing rose which dates back to 1914. Dr Huey is probably the most common root stock used on roses sold in the southwest. Because of its vigor it has probably nearly taken over your peace rose. One way to help prevent this from happening is to prune off new shoots as close to the root stock as possible as soon as they are seen growing. Lack of adequate sun and regular annual pruning plus old age contributes to the decline of your rose. Transplanting will often help to rejuvenate a declining rose bush. I would suggest that you cut the bush back to about 18 inches tall, have the new hole dug, and take up as much soil as you can handle with the bush and immediately plant in the new hole. I'm enclosing a copy of an article that I had published in the Republic recently on planting bare root roses. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian December and January is an exciting time of year for rose lovers, second only to the spring and fall blooming time. The nurseries will be receiving their new stock of roses in mid December, and we rosarians all look forward with anticipation the new rose varieties. For the best selection of varieties don't delay. If you wait until late January you may have trouble finding that favorite rose. You have three options as to where to buy roses: 1. Nurseries, 2. Mail order, 3. Discounters. There is also the option of buying either bare root or potted. My preference is to buy bare root from a nursery that stores the roses in a sawdust bin. The roots of roses stored in a sawdust bin can be examined, and if you don't like the appearance of the roots you don't have to buy. With a packaged rose you don't have that option. After the middle of February my preference is to buy potted roses because they have already started the rooting process, and the chances of survival are much better. If you are unable to find the variety wanted locally, then your only option is mail order.If the mail order option is used, again be sure and order early, not only for the best selection, but you won't want bare root roses shipped to the Phoenix area in March. It's time to plant.Dig the hole a month before you plant if possible, replace the soil with amendments and soak well. Do not put fertilizer in the planting hole at this time. Most rose books recommend a planting hole of at least 18 x 18 inches. My recommendation is to make the planting hole 30 x 30 inches, and especially if the soil is dense clay as is found in most of Maricopa county. If you have much caliche your options are to either dig out the caliche or to build raised beds. It's now planting time. Soak the bare root roses over night in water;dig out some of the planting mix, form a cone,spread the rose roots on the cone with the bud graft 2 inches above grade, backfill and water in well. To keep the canes from drying out mound up either the planting mix or mulch around the canes. January is the time to prune roses for those of you who already have them in your garden. Basically cut your hybred teas, florabundas, and minatures back from 1/3 to 1/2 depending on the size; cut out the dead wood, and strip off all the leaves and clean up around the bush. It is always helpful to attend one of the pruning demonstrations held in public rose gardens by most of the rose societies in the valley. Watch the Saturday newspapers home section for time and place. Have problems with roses or have questions to be answered, call the Master Gardner hot line or talk to one of the many Master Gardner Consulting Rosarians. Rod McKusick, Master Gardner and Consulting Rosarian --part1_156.6d63fba.296a10ff_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Rocki,

The growth  you are seeing on your Peace rose is the root stock, Dr Huey which is a single blooming climbing rose which dates back to 1914. Dr Huey is probably the most common root stock used on roses sold in the southwest. Because of its vigor it has probably nearly taken over your peace rose. One way to help prevent this from happening is to prune off new shoots as close to the root stock as possible as soon as they are seen growing. Lack of adequate sun and regular annual pruning plus old age contributes to the decline of your rose.
Transplanting will often help to rejuvenate a declining rose bush.
I would suggest that you cut the bush back to about 18 inches tall, have the new hole dug, and take up as much soil as you can handle with the bush and immediately plant in the new hole.

I'm enclosing a copy of an article that I had published in the Republic recently on planting bare root roses.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian

December and January is an exciting time of year for rose lovers, second only to the spring and fall  blooming time.
The nurseries will be receiving their new stock of roses in mid December, and we rosarians all look forward with anticipation the new rose varieties. For the best selection of varieties don't delay. If you wait until late January you may have trouble finding that favorite rose.
You have three options as to where to buy roses: 1. Nurseries, 2. Mail order, 3. Discounters. There is also the option of buying either bare root or potted. My preference is to buy bare root from a nursery that stores the roses in a sawdust bin. The roots of roses stored in a sawdust bin can be examined, and if you don't like the appearance of the roots you don't have to buy. With a packaged rose you don't have that option. After the middle of February my preference is to buy potted roses because they have already started the rooting process, and the chances of survival are much better.
If you are unable to find the variety wanted locally, then your only option is mail order.If the mail order option is used, again be sure and order early, not only for the best selection, but you won't want bare root roses shipped to the Phoenix area in March.
It's time to plant.Dig the hole a month before  you plant if possible, replace the soil with amendments and soak well. Do not put fertilizer in the planting hole at this time.   Most rose books recommend a planting hole of at least 18 x 18 inches. My recommendation is to make the planting hole 30 x 30 inches, and especially if the soil is dense clay as is found in most of Maricopa county. If you have much caliche your options are to either dig out the caliche or to build raised beds.
It's now planting time. Soak the bare root roses over night in water;dig out some of the planting mix, form a cone,spread the rose roots on the cone with the bud graft 2 inches above grade, backfill and water in well. To keep the canes from drying out mound up either the planting mix or mulch around the canes.
January is the time to prune roses for those of you who already have  them in your garden. Basically cut your hybred teas, florabundas, and minatures back from 1/3 to 1/2  depending on the size; cut out the dead wood, and strip off all the leaves and clean up around the bush. It is always helpful to attend one of the pruning demonstrations held in public rose gardens by most of the rose societies in the valley. Watch the Saturday newspapers home section for time and place.
Have problems with roses or have questions to be answered, call the Master Gardner hot line or talk to one of the many Master Gardner Consulting Rosarians.

Rod McKusick, Master Gardner and Consulting Rosarian

--part1_156.6d63fba.296a10ff_boundary-- From HRB85373@aol.com Sun Jan 6 23:05:56 2002 From: HRB85373@aol.com (HRB85373@aol.com) Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 16:05:56 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201062305.g06N5un00122@Ag.arizona.edu> I have heard that our Christmas Amaryllis can be planted outdoors here in the valley after it has finished blooming. Any information as to how, when, watering, and other details? Thank you! Hal From Helenzbaby@aol.com Mon Jan 7 17:24:19 2002 From: Helenzbaby@aol.com (Helenzbaby@aol.com) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 10:24:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201071724.g07HOJn06724@Ag.arizona.edu> I am inquiring about the best kind of grass to plant. I live in Yuma. We have a front yard facing east that is almost all shade ... big trees. The back yard is just the opposite with lots of sun. Do you have any information about Dichondria? Would it make a good ground cover? Your help will be appreciated. Thank You HelenzBaby@aol.com From rtrexler@apd.maricopa.gov Mon Jan 7 20:35:55 2002 From: rtrexler@apd.maricopa.gov (rtrexler@apd.maricopa.gov) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 13:35:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201072035.g07KZtn23858@Ag.arizona.edu> We are building a new home in south phoenix and want to have a hummingbird garden when we landscape. What plants, trees, shrubs, should we include? From boofie@bigfoot.com Mon Jan 7 21:41:50 2002 From: boofie@bigfoot.com (Jessica Boof Wilson) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 13:41:50 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Little Grey Bugs In-Reply-To: <200201062045.g06Kjkn17878@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20020107214150.32056.qmail@web10005.mail.yahoo.com> In one of the earlier posts there was a solution to the little grey bugs that are flying around my house. I looked it up and found that I am supposed to put a teaspoon of household bleach into a liter of water. My question is: what do I do with this solution? Water my plants with it? If so, one of my plants or all using the whole amount? Soak the plants in it? If so, for how long? I am really new to this whole plant thing, and would like specifics spelled out to me as if I were in Kindergarden... no.. no. Like I am in preschool. :) Thank you for your time and effort. Jessica Boof Sizemore __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/ From AZamigo@aol.com Tue Jan 8 04:23:44 2002 From: AZamigo@aol.com (AZamigo@aol.com) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 21:23:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201080423.g084Nin27834@Ag.arizona.edu> My white grapefruit tree in Tucson has produced 20 fruit in only its third year in the ground, so I am assuming it is healthy. My question is, I will be out of town during February when I usually apply fertilizer to the grapefruit and other citrus trees. Earlier this week I spread a 3 inch layer of compost over basin and then flooded it with 6" of water. Will this provide adequate nutrients for this spring or should I put down some fertilizer spikes now. The rinds of the fruits are rather thick, which I assume is a result of abundant nitrogen. Any insight would be appreciated. From slangaj@juno.com Tue Jan 8 04:36:42 2002 From: slangaj@juno.com (slangaj@juno.com) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 21:36:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201080436.g084agn29044@Ag.arizona.edu> Thank you so much for your 2002 gardening calendar in the Sun Cities paper. Great, I'll post this one...Question, is the pruning of Hibiscus fall under the heading of "pruning shrubs" in January ? Also how far back do/can I prune them ?? Thank you again for the calendar.. Jim From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Jan 8 13:01:51 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 06:01:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fungus Gnats References: <20020107214150.32056.qmail@web10005.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3C3AEDBF.E5E340@qwest.net> You drench the soil with the solution, which should kill the larvae. However, it doesn't generally address the adults that are still flying about, so you may have to use the soil drench next month to catch any new larva the adults may have left before the end of their life cycle. Linda Guy, MG Jessica Boof Wilson wrote: > In one of the earlier posts there was a solution to > the little grey bugs that are flying around my house. > I looked it up and found that I am supposed to put a > teaspoon of household bleach into a liter of water. > My question is: what do I do with this solution? > Water my plants with it? If so, one of my plants or > all using the whole amount? Soak the plants in it? > If so, for how long? I am really new to this whole > plant thing, and would like specifics spelled out to > me as if I were in Kindergarden... no.. no. Like I am > in preschool. :) > Thank you for your time and effort. > Jessica Boof Sizemore > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! > http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/ > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Jan 8 13:06:02 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 06:06:02 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tomatillo Seeds References: <200201040359.g043xcn05585@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C3AEEBA.39BD5819@qwest.net> I've not had problems with any source, but if you wish to purchase locally, you might enjoy Native Seed/Search in Tucson. http://www.nativeseeds.org/ Linda Guy, MG tamhankins@aol.com wrote: > My question concerns tomatillos. What type of tomatillo does best in the Phoenix area? My 2000 season plants had lots of fruits, a friend of mine gave me those seeds. Then in 2001 I bought some seeds from Burpee that had alot of flowers but absoltly no ftuit.I have since thrown those seeds away. Can someone help me. Thank you, Chris > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Jan 8 23:28:53 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 18:28:53 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus fertilization Message-ID: <24.1efc4c11.296cdab5@aol.com> --part1_24.1efc4c11.296cdab5_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Since you will not be available to fertilize your citrus in February, I would suggest fertilizing in March as early as possible. Yes too much nitrogen can cause extra thick rinds on your grapefruit. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_24.1efc4c11.296cdab5_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Since you will not be available to fertilize your citrus in February, I would suggest fertilizing in March as early as possible. Yes too much nitrogen can cause extra thick rinds on your grapefruit.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_24.1efc4c11.296cdab5_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Jan 8 23:28:52 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 18:28:52 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Irrigation for newly planted trees and shrubs Message-ID: <9.21639430.296cdab4@aol.com> --part1_9.21639430.296cdab4_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Since you didn't furnish enough pertinent information on your tree size when planted, type of irrigation system ie drippers, bubblers, with size and number, soil type, where you live, it is impossible to make recommendations. Also are the trees and shrubs on separate circuits or are they on the same circuit with the grass? For winter time watering the irrigation interval for plants is usually three to four times that for summer. For trees and plants that were planted this last December with the cool temperatures we have had irrigation once per week was more than adequate provided you live in the Phoenix area. >From the info you have provided your trees and plants have been over watered. The irrigation interval should have been extended rather than cutting back on the water. Check out the chapter on irrigation in the Master Gardener Manual on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_9.21639430.296cdab4_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Since you didn't furnish enough pertinent information on your tree size when planted, type of irrigation system ie drippers, bubblers, with size and number, soil type, where you live, it is impossible to make recommendations. Also are the trees and shrubs on separate circuits or are they on the same circuit with the grass?
For winter time watering the irrigation interval for plants is usually three to four times that for summer. For trees and plants that were planted this last December with the cool temperatures we have had  irrigation once per week was more than adequate  provided you live in the Phoenix area.
From the info you have provided your trees and plants have been over watered. The irrigation interval should have been extended rather than cutting back on the water.
Check out the chapter on irrigation in the Master Gardener Manual on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_9.21639430.296cdab4_boundary-- From WaltSi3@Yahoo.com Wed Jan 9 01:23:41 2002 From: WaltSi3@Yahoo.com (WaltSi3@Yahoo.com) Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 18:23:41 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201090123.g091Nfn17133@Ag.arizona.edu> I'd like any information I can get about planting gardenias outdoors in Phoenix. From umiller@azdps.com Wed Jan 9 01:12:42 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 18:12:42 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gardenias in Phoenix In-Reply-To: <200201090123.g091Nfn17133@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Gardenias are hard to grow here. They don't like our soil type, don't care for the heat and have a problem with the hot summer sun. They are a high-maintenance plant. You can go to this site http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener and type in the word gardenias, his search and you'll see previous comments about these pretty, but fussy plants. Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of WaltSi3@Yahoo.com Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2002 6:24 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I'd like any information I can get about planting gardenias outdoors in Phoenix. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindasbw@aol.com Wed Jan 9 05:21:26 2002 From: lindasbw@aol.com (lindasbw@aol.com) Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 22:21:26 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201090521.g095LQn12099@Ag.arizona.edu> While searching the UA document files, I found somewhat contradictory information on Satsuma plum. Specifically, some documents indicate that the Satsuma is "sweet" and "Ozark Premier of Santa Rosa can be used as a pollenizer." However, the Master Gardener Manual indicates that Satsuma is "tart" and "self-fruitful". I'm looking for a sweet dark fruited plum for growing in Phoenix area. I'm looking to plant only one plum tree, so the tree should be self-fruiting. Is Satsuma a good choice? Thanks, Chris From susyn@uswestmail.net Wed Jan 9 09:25:11 2002 From: susyn@uswestmail.net (susyn@uswestmail.net) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 02:25:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201090925.g099PBn17932@Ag.arizona.edu> at the end of last summer my Eucalyptus suddenly turned brown - from the very top to the bottom in a short period of time (a week or so?) i also had some ground cover near the base die off completly too. any ideas what caused this? what i can do to help it out any? it had just been thinned out by some aborists apx a couple of weeks prior - i don't know if that would make a difference. a month later (apx.) i did see some young sprouts showing up light green again, but with lower temps they have turned brown as well. wasn't very much. From carmine@lynchbros.com Wed Jan 9 13:48:39 2002 From: carmine@lynchbros.com (carmine@lynchbros.com) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 06:48:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201091348.g09Dmcn27774@Ag.arizona.edu> Is there a grass other than Bermuda that can survive the heat and drought of the summer months in Phoenix? Thank you. From gardenguru" Message-ID: <00a201c19919$8a78f6e0$a1facbd8@ibm22761658747> Gardenias can be grow in Phx in pots or in the ground with morning sun only. Feed them regularly with fert. for acid loving plants. That is the good news. The bad news is that due to the high salt content in our water, Gardenia blooms form and drop off. They do make a nice green bush but you will not get it to bloom using our water. Hope that helps Gardenguru ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2002 6:23 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I'd like any information I can get about planting gardenias outdoors in Phoenix. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From gardenguru" Message-ID: <00a801c1991c$8649c4c0$a1facbd8@ibm22761658747> There are many different turfs that survive our summer heat. The best place to see these are at the demonstration garden at the extension office at 4341 E. Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ . Western Sod has planted and maintains sections of all the turf that will grow here. Drop by take a look. Gardenguru ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 6:48 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Is there a grass other than Bermuda that can survive the heat and drought of the summer months in Phoenix? Thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From gardenguru" <00a801c1991c$8649c4c0$a1facbd8@ibm22761658747> <001201c19937$432f0310$1101a8c0@lynchbros.local> Message-ID: <00fb01c19939$24e29820$a1facbd8@ibm22761658747> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00F8_01C198FE.77A1EBA0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Carmine, I believe their hrs are 8 to 5 Mon - Fri but give them call at = 602/470-8086 to confirm. The Master Gardener Manual - Chapter 12 is now = online and available at = http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/press.htm. This chapter = covers lawns and turf for our region. This will provide you with alot of = info prior to your visit to the extension office to see the displays.=20 Good Luck Gardenguru ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Carmine Di Giacomo=20 To: gardenguru=20 Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 10:58 AM Subject: Re: Turf in Phx Thank you for your reply. What are the extension office hours that = I can come by and look at the Western Sod displays? Carmine Di Giacomo ------=_NextPart_000_00F8_01C198FE.77A1EBA0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Carmine, I believe their hrs are 8 to 5 Mon - = Fri but give=20 them call at 602/470-8086  to confirm. The Master Gardener Manual - = Chapter=20 12 is now online and available at http:/= /ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/press.htm.=20 This chapter covers lawns and turf for our region. This will provide you = with=20 alot of info prior to your visit to the extension office to see the = displays.=20
Good Luck
Gardenguru
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Carmine Di=20 Giacomo
Sent: Wednesday, January 09, = 2002 10:58=20 AM
Subject: Re: Turf in Phx

    Thank=20 you for your reply. What are the extension office hours that I can = come by and=20 look at the Western Sod displays?
 
Carmine Di=20 Giacomo
------=_NextPart_000_00F8_01C198FE.77A1EBA0-- From dhackett4golf@juno.com Wed Jan 9 19:44:51 2002 From: dhackett4golf@juno.com (dhackett4golf@juno.com) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 12:44:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201091944.g09Jipn21004@Ag.arizona.edu> Crown of thorns, My plant is two years old, It now has began to yellow and drop leaves. Is this a normal reaction before blooming. I resently repotted the plant in a 12inch by 12inch pot. Any help would be nice. Thank you for the time, dhackett4golf@juno.com From poin@gardenpro.net Wed Jan 9 19:54:19 2002 From: poin@gardenpro.net (poin) Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 12:54:19 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] childrens gardening Message-ID: <3C3C9FEB.58B6C922@gardenpro.net> Lucy Bradley, I am looking for gardening activities for children of different ages and was wondering if this falls into your area of expertise or there is someone else at the extension office that I could contact. Thanks, Kari Treadway From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Wed Jan 9 20:44:10 2002 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 13:44:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] childrens gardening References: <3C3C9FEB.58B6C922@gardenpro.net> Message-ID: <3C3CAB9A.C30009AC@email.sps.mot.com> Hi Kari, I'm not Lucy, but maybe I can help. Here are just a couple of sites with gardening ideas for children. http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Hills/6160/kids.html http://www.greenweb.com.au/garden/html/kids_in_the_garden.html http://www.fertilemindsinc.com/gchild.html http://www.gardengatemagazine.com/projects/kid4.html http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/gpe/app/links.html If you go to google at http://www.google.com and type in Childrens Garden Projects, you can come up with a whole tons of sites with projects for children, that might give you some ideas. Hope this helps :) ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.gizmoaz.com Over 225 roses and over 135 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! Check out the Garden Cams on Saturday and Sunday!! poin wrote: > Lucy Bradley, > > I am looking for gardening activities for children of different ages and > was wondering if this falls into your area of expertise or there is > someone else at the extension office that I could contact. > > Thanks, > > Kari Treadway > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Jan 9 21:31:06 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 14:31:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Childrens gardening References: <3C3C9FEB.58B6C922@gardenpro.net> Message-ID: <3C3CB69A.576FD056@qwest.net> You might bookmark our Youth Gardening website, which has current events http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens/index.html Do you have our school gardening book? http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/sch-bk.htm Linda Guy, MG poin wrote: > Lucy Bradley, > > I am looking for gardening activities for children of different ages and > was wondering if this falls into your area of expertise or there is > someone else at the extension office that I could contact. > > Thanks, > > Kari Treadway > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Jan 9 21:33:21 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 14:33:21 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] MCCE Turf Display References: <200201091348.g09Dmcn27774@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C3CB720.C5D2D9A5@qwest.net> Since its outdoors, and each has good signage, you can visit the turf display or any of the other demo gardens even if the office isn't open. Just make sure you give yourself some daylight. And don't forget that much of the Bermuda lawns will be dormant now. Linda Guy, MG carmine@lynchbros.com wrote: > Is there a grass other than Bermuda that can survive the heat and drought of the summer months in Phoenix? Thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Jan 9 21:36:58 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 14:36:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gardenias References: <200201090123.g091Nfn17133@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C3CB7FA.D86FC84F@qwest.net> In addition to the garden guru's reply, gardenias don't much like our soil or temps or aridity either. Most who grow these will rely upon acidifying products, one is as simple as periodically watering with vinegar diluted in water. But I agree with guru, it's a real push in the low desert. Order our pub MC 29 for more ideas at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Linda Guy WaltSi3@Yahoo.com wrote: > I'd like any information I can get about planting gardenias outdoors in Phoenix. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Ann Boland" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C1991D.01B31760 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable After successful pot gardening in Tucson for two years, I now have the = quail eating my pansies and my herbs. They look cute doing it, but are = doing just as much damage as ground squirrels. Any suggestions other = than netting over everything? Thanks Please note new street address and fax number for your records. Ann Boland ann@annboland.com Integrated Learning Solutions, Inc. 2720 W. Calle Cuero de Vaca Tucson, AZ 85745 v - 520-624-9575 f - 520.624.5436 mobile - 520-241-4838 ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C1991D.01B31760 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
After successful pot = gardening in Tucson=20 for two years, I now have the quail eating my pansies and my = herbs.  They=20 look cute doing it, but are doing just as much damage as ground = squirrels. =20 Any suggestions other than netting over everything?  = Thanks
Please note new street = address and fax=20 number for your records.
 
Ann Boland
ann@annboland.com
Integrated = Learning=20 Solutions, Inc.
2720 W. Calle Cuero de Vaca
Tucson, AZ 85745
v = -=20 520-624-9575
f - 520.624.5436
mobile -=20 520-241-4838
------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C1991D.01B31760-- From LATISHA.KEMPLE@CRBARD.COM Wed Jan 9 21:46:58 2002 From: LATISHA.KEMPLE@CRBARD.COM (LATISHA.KEMPLE@CRBARD.COM) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 14:46:58 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201092146.g09Lkwn22779@Ag.arizona.edu> WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO PLANT SEEDS FOR A LAWN? From LATISHA.KEMPLE@CRBARD.COM Wed Jan 9 22:52:24 2002 From: LATISHA.KEMPLE@CRBARD.COM (LATISHA.KEMPLE@CRBARD.COM) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 15:52:24 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201092252.g09MqOn10633@Ag.arizona.edu> WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO TRANSPLANT A BOUGANVILLA? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Jan 10 00:36:23 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 19:36:23 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvillea, transplanting Message-ID: <13f.77cf410.296e3c07@aol.com> --part1_13f.77cf410.296e3c07_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bougainvillea do not transplant well, they do not like to have their roots disturbed. If you are planting from a pot I would suggest waiting until the danger of frost is past. Bermuda grass seed can be planted after the night time low temperatures are above 65 degrees for several days. This will usually be in mid to late April. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_13f.77cf410.296e3c07_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bougainvillea do not transplant well, they do not like to have their roots disturbed. If you are planting from a pot I would suggest waiting until the danger of frost is past.
Bermuda grass seed can be planted after the night time low temperatures are above 65 degrees for several days. This will usually be in mid to late April.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_13f.77cf410.296e3c07_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Jan 10 00:36:54 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 19:36:54 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Eucalyptus dying Message-ID: <12a.a5a6b52.296e3c26@aol.com> --part1_12a.a5a6b52.296e3c26_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Since you didn't say what variety of Eucalyptus you have ( there are many varieties ) I can only answer in generalities. Here in the Arizona low desert we have just gone through one of the hottest summers on record and death of the tree could be the result of inadequate irrigation. If your tree happens to be a Eucalyptus rudis, which was popular a few years ago, it has been found that this tree is not well suited to our low desert will be short lived. If the tree does not show some new growth in a month or two it no doubt is dead. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_12a.a5a6b52.296e3c26_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Since you didn't say what variety of Eucalyptus you have ( there are many varieties ) I can only answer in generalities. Here in the Arizona low desert we have just gone through one of the hottest summers on record and death of the tree could be the result of inadequate irrigation.
If your tree happens to be a Eucalyptus rudis, which was popular a few years ago, it has been found that this tree is not well suited to our low desert will be short lived.
If the tree does not show some new growth in a month or two it no doubt is dead.
Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at:  http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
--part1_12a.a5a6b52.296e3c26_boundary-- From gardenguru" Message-ID: <00cb01c199e5$81a7c1a0$5ffacbd8@ibm22761658747> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00C8_01C199AA.D4671520 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Ann, Netting is the best deterant but it is not very attractive. Milar = bird scare tape can be place around your plants that bothers them = alittle but it is less attractive than the netting. They do sell = commercial spray products that is suppose to keep birds from eating your = plants but they are only marginally effective. They also love allisium = and Lobilia, but don't like petunias - give them a try.=20 GG ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Ann Boland=20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 2:50 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Quail eating plants After successful pot gardening in Tucson for two years, I now have the = quail eating my pansies and my herbs. They look cute doing it, but are = doing just as much damage as ground squirrels. Any suggestions other = than netting over everything? Thanks Please note new street address and fax number for your records. Ann Boland ann@annboland.com Integrated Learning Solutions, Inc. 2720 W. Calle Cuero de Vaca Tucson, AZ 85745 v - 520-624-9575 f - 520.624.5436 mobile - 520-241-4838 ------=_NextPart_000_00C8_01C199AA.D4671520 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Ann, Netting is the best deterant but it is not = very=20 attractive. Milar bird scare tape can be place around your plants that = bothers=20 them alittle but it is less attractive than the netting. They do sell = commercial=20 spray products that is suppose to keep birds from eating your plants but = they=20 are only marginally effective. They also love allisium and Lobilia, but = don't=20 like petunias  - give them a try.
GG
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Ann = Boland=20
Sent: Wednesday, January 09, = 2002 2:50=20 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Quail = eating=20 plants

After successful pot = gardening in=20 Tucson for two years, I now have the quail eating my pansies and my=20 herbs.  They look cute doing it, but are doing just as much = damage as=20 ground squirrels.  Any suggestions other than netting over=20 everything?  Thanks
Please note new street = address and fax=20 number for your records.
 
Ann Boland
ann@annboland.com
Integrated = Learning=20 Solutions, Inc.
2720 W. Calle Cuero de Vaca
Tucson, AZ = 85745
v -=20 520-624-9575
f - 520.624.5436
mobile -=20 520-241-4838
------=_NextPart_000_00C8_01C199AA.D4671520-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Jan 10 15:27:29 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 15:27:29 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Satsuma plum 'Santa Rosa' Message-ID: I do not have personal experience with the Satsuma plum but I did some research on the web. There are two types of plums -- Oriental and European. Orientals ggrow better in the desert; European are not usually recommended here. Europeans are very sweet and may also be used for prunes. Orientals are more tart. The regular Satsuma plum does best with cross pollination. However, 'Santa Rosa' is a specific cultivar of the Satsuma and it is self-pollinating. I hope others with first-hand experience can give you more information. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: lindasbw@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 22:21:26 -0700 (MST) > >While searching the UA document files, I found somewhat contradictory >information on Satsuma plum. Specifically, some documents indicate that >the Satsuma is "sweet" and "Ozark Premier of Santa Rosa can be used as a >pollenizer." However, the Master Gardener Manual indicates that Satsuma is >"tart" and "self-fruitful". > >I'm looking for a sweet dark fruited plum for growing in Phoenix area. I'm >looking to plant only one plum tree, so the tree should be self-fruiting. >Is Satsuma a good choice? > >Thanks, >Chris > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Jan 10 15:27:45 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 15:27:45 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Satsuma plum 'Santa Rosa' Message-ID: I do not have personal experience with the Satsuma plum but I did some research on the web. There are two types of plums -- Oriental and European. Orientals ggrow better in the desert; European are not usually recommended here. Europeans are very sweet and may also be used for prunes. Orientals are more tart. The regular Satsuma plum does best with cross pollination. However, 'Santa Rosa' is a specific cultivar of the Satsuma and it is self-pollinating. I hope others with first-hand experience can give you more information. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: lindasbw@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 22:21:26 -0700 (MST) > >While searching the UA document files, I found somewhat contradictory >information on Satsuma plum. Specifically, some documents indicate that >the Satsuma is "sweet" and "Ozark Premier of Santa Rosa can be used as a >pollenizer." However, the Master Gardener Manual indicates that Satsuma is >"tart" and "self-fruitful". > >I'm looking for a sweet dark fruited plum for growing in Phoenix area. I'm >looking to plant only one plum tree, so the tree should be self-fruiting. >Is Satsuma a good choice? > >Thanks, >Chris > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From jkandell@twistedclicks.com Thu Jan 10 16:02:15 2002 From: jkandell@twistedclicks.com (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 09:02:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] tepary beans Message-ID: <005601c199f0$3eacd740$d0a20404@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_004A_01C199B5.7F846D40 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I wanted to recommend tepary beans to you all. I grew some last summer, = with some skepticism about their flavor, since they're native, grow in = alkaline soils with very little water. I just cooked my first batch of = dried beans and they're delicious. They have a nutty taste when cooked, = a bit like peanuts. Definitely worth trying if you're going to do = beans. I got my seed at Native/Seed Search, planted in July in Tucson = and harvested in October. They grew as a low bush. ------=_NextPart_000_004A_01C199B5.7F846D40 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I wanted to recommend tepary beans to you = all.  I=20 grew some last summer, with some skepticism about their flavor, since = they're=20 native, grow in alkaline soils with very little water.  I just = cooked my=20 first batch of dried beans and they're delicious.  They have a = nutty taste=20 when cooked, a bit like peanuts.  Definitely worth trying if you're = going=20 to do beans.  I got my seed at Native/Seed Search, planted in July = in=20 Tucson and harvested in October.  They grew as a low=20 bush.
------=_NextPart_000_004A_01C199B5.7F846D40-- From boofie@bigfoot.com Thu Jan 10 18:13:13 2002 From: boofie@bigfoot.com (Jessica Boof Wilson) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 10:13:13 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grass meets greyhound :) Message-ID: <20020110181313.78445.qmail@web10008.mail.yahoo.com> Hello, I just purchased a wonderful new house,in Tucson, with a huge green grass backyard. As winter came the grass turned brown in the center, and stayed green on the edges. Is this normal? Then much to my surprise, I just adopted a retired racing Greyhound. We go out and play in the yard, and when she gets excited, she does her laps, running as fast as she cam in a circle, for as long as she can. This is quite a sight to see, and we love that she is doing it.... but every stride she takes, a cloud of dust erupts from where she has disturbed the grass. Restraining her from running is not an option, (it is just too cool!!!) so I am asking when will the grass that is left turn green again, I think they said it was Bermuda, and will we need to reseed? If we should reseed, what should we buy, when should we do it, how should we do it, and do we need to keep her off it for a while, and for how long? If you don't remember I am new to all this, and would like explanations as if I am in preschool. (maybe a baby just walking) :) Also, are there any plants, I like purple flowers, that might go well with a puppy running a good 30-40 miles per hour around them? Thank you all in advance. Boof Sizemore __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail! http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/ From sarah.schell@stjude.org Thu Jan 10 19:53:01 2002 From: sarah.schell@stjude.org (sarah.schell@stjude.org) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 12:53:01 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201101953.g0AJr0n05893@Ag.arizona.edu> I am trying to grow tomatillos in Mississippi. Since this is not a plant native to this area, our local ag extension is unable to supply much information. I tried to grow them last year, and the local insect population ate more of them than me. Can you supply me with any info regarding anything about these wonderful veggies? Specifically insect control would be particularly useful. Thank you, Sarah Schell I am trying to grow tomatillos in Mississippi. Since this is not a plant native to this area, our local ag extension is unable to supply much information. I tried to grow them last year, and the local insect population ate more of them than me. Can you supply me with any info regarding anything about these wonderful veggies? Specifically insect control would be particularly useful. Really, any info you have would be very helpful. Thank you, Sarah Schell From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Jan 11 00:27:32 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 19:27:32 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grass meets greyhound :) Message-ID: <107.b251fc3.296f8b74@aol.com> --part1_107.b251fc3.296f8b74_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Boof, Bermuda grass becomes dormant in the winter here in the low desert of Arizona. I don't think that your dog would damage it, he might even make it grow better. Should you have to reseed the bermuda you must wait until the night time temperatures have been over 65 degrees for several days which in the Phoenix area usually happens in April . You will need to keep the dog off for at least three weeks. I like Ruellia a purple flowering shrub which flowers spring ,summer and fall, grows to about 3 feet tall and is quite vigorous Good luck.. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_107.b251fc3.296f8b74_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Boof,

Bermuda grass becomes dormant in the winter here in the low desert of Arizona. I don't think that your dog would damage it, he might even make it grow better. Should you have to reseed the bermuda you must wait until the night time temperatures have been over 65 degrees for several days which in the Phoenix area usually happens in April . You will need to keep the dog off for at least three weeks.

I  like Ruellia a purple flowering shrub which flowers spring ,summer and fall, grows to about 3 feet tall and is quite vigorous

Good luck..

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_107.b251fc3.296f8b74_boundary-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Jan 11 02:33:32 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 19:33:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Discounted Gardening Books Message-ID: <3C3E4EFC.362708F9@qwest.net> Each year, the annual catalog for Pinetree Garden Seeds contains a number of books and other items at discounted and/or discontinued prices. This year I noticed a number of books that would be useful in a school/youth gardening environment. you might want to check it out at http://www.superseeds.com/ Examples are I didn't know that some plants grow in midair [$2.98] The Sunflower [$3.95] My Backyard Garden [$4.98] Birding for Kids [$5.99; video] Oh Say Can You Seed [Dr. Seuss] There are many, many other books, including the herbal mysteries [!]. Check it out. Linda Guy, MG From lorinlafoe@msn.com Fri Jan 11 04:53:27 2002 From: lorinlafoe@msn.com (lorinlafoe@msn.com) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 21:53:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201110453.g0B4rRn23850@Ag.arizona.edu> date palms: medjools particularly- at what time of the year do you fertilize a palm that is about 8 years old. What kind of fertilizer would you use. How much fertilizer would you use per tree? Once a year or more? I am in chandler. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Jan 11 13:56:52 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 13:56:52 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] palms, fertilizing Message-ID: Information from Linda Guy: As a rule, palms look considerably better with appropriate fertilization, including some micronutrients. This is typically done in mid spring and again in early summer. We have an excellent discussion of fertilizer in our Arizona Landscape Palms publication at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf Specialty palm fertilizers are easily purchased here in the valley. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener >From: lorinlafoe@msn.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 21:53:27 -0700 (MST) > >date palms: medjools particularly- at what time of the year do you >fertilize a palm that is about 8 years old. What kind of fertilizer would >you use. How much fertilizer would you use per tree? Once a year or more? >I am in chandler. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From racbvoll@home.com Fri Jan 11 14:42:38 2002 From: racbvoll@home.com (Charles B Voll) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 07:42:38 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hot Spot Message-ID: <75B9E334-06A1-11D6-A737-000A27B35DB2@home.com> I live on a small lot in Val Vista Lakes in Gilbert. I want to replace three, too large bougainvillea growing against a light colored, two story, stucco, south facing, house wall with, ideally, a low maintenance, at times colorful, much smaller shrub or bush. This environment appears to greatly restrict choices. What do you suggest? Thank you. Charlie Voll From JeanSciFi@aol.com Fri Jan 11 15:08:25 2002 From: JeanSciFi@aol.com (JeanSciFi@aol.com) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 10:08:25 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: about cucumbers Message-ID: <5f.20a60a35.297059e9@aol.com> --part1_5f.20a60a35.297059e9_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit --part1_5f.20a60a35.297059e9_boundary Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Disposition: inline Return-path: From: Ohmystarss@aol.com Full-name: Ohmystarss Message-ID: <164.6f26c27.296f49aa@aol.com> Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 14:46:50 EST Subject: about cucumbers To: JeanSciFi@aol.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: AOL 7.0 for Windows US sub 118 I have always been taught that if you peel a cucumber the wrong way, It will be bitter. Can you tell me if this is an old wives tale or if there is any truth to the practice and if so why would it be bitter? I was taught to peel from the stem down for less bitter cukes. Thanks! LouAnn Ohmystarss@aol.com --part1_5f.20a60a35.297059e9_boundary-- From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri Jan 11 15:47:27 2002 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 08:47:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fw: about cucumbers Message-ID: <000f01c19ab7$473f2da0$3b52530c@j0r9501> ----- Original Message ----- From: "olin" To: ; Sent: Friday, January 11, 2002 8:40 AM Subject: Re: about cucumbers Another old method to remove the bitter taste (that doesn't work either) is to cut about 1 inch off the stem end, then rub the cut faces together until the juice becomes frothy. Some cucumber varieties are just more bitter than others. Stresses during the growing period such as too little water, lack of nutrients, high temperature or any influence that causes stunting can contribute to a bitter taste. Olin ---- Original Message ----- From: > I have always been taught that if you peel a cucumber the wrong way, It will > be bitter. Can you tell me if this is an old wives tale or if there is any > truth to the practice and if so why would it be bitter? I was taught to > peel from the stem down for less bitter cukes. Thanks! LouAnn > Ohmystarss@aol.com From henryr@kaibab.com Fri Jan 11 17:13:17 2002 From: henryr@kaibab.com (henryr@kaibab.com) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 10:13:17 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201111713.g0BHDHn17710@Ag.arizona.edu> I have tomatoe seedlings that were planted in Sept. and are about 18 inches tall. The frost got to them and all the leaves are brown. The main stem is staying green so far. Do I keep my hopes up that they will sprout new foliage in the spring time or just pull them out? The frost damage occurred around the middle of Dec. From jkandell@twistedclicks.com Fri Jan 11 18:03:37 2002 From: jkandell@twistedclicks.com (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 11:03:37 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] temps for tomato seedlings Message-ID: <000801c19aca$b372c8c0$6aaa3604@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C19A8F.9E943B40 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I read that professional tomato growers typically want new seedlings to = have two weeks of cool temperatures (55-60). This promotes the = production of blossoms later on. See, e.g. = http://www.ichthy.com/~mule/Tomato/start.html. In our arid climates, = this is a typical day temperature outside in January when we start = tomatoes. So it sounds like we should grow our seelings outside rather = than under lights, only bringing them in for the evening. Comments? jk ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C19A8F.9E943B40 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I read that professional tomato growers = typically want new=20 seedlings to have two weeks of cool temperatures (55-60). This = promotes the=20 production of blossoms later on.  See, e.g. http://www.ichthy.= com/~mule/Tomato/start.html. =20 In our arid climates, this is a typical day = temperature=20 outside in January when we start tomatoes.  So it sounds like we = should=20 grow our seelings outside rather than under lights, only bringing them = in for=20 the evening. Comments?
 
jk
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C19A8F.9E943B40-- From mwinternheimer@home.com Fri Jan 11 22:31:57 2002 From: mwinternheimer@home.com (mwinternheimer@home.com) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 15:31:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201112231.g0BMVvn29712@Ag.arizona.edu> I planted 3 Pink Trumpet Vines in my Desert Hummingbird Garden. One looks very healthy and is still blooming. The other two have some new growth, no blooms and the leaves have started turning yellow, starting at the bottom of the plants. The area where they are planted has lightly filtered afternoon sun and is next to the bird bath. What could be causing two of the vines to turn yellow? From lbradley@sisna.com Fri Jan 11 21:41:16 2002 From: lbradley@sisna.com (Lucy Bradley) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 14:41:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] The Southwestern Research Station in Portal, Arizona has openings for volunteers, cooks, and a seasonal staff assistant in 2002. Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020111143813.01cf1d38@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_24438801==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed The Southwestern Research Station in Portal, Arizona has openings for volunteers, cooks, and a seasonal staff assistant in 2002. VOLUNTEERS - Approximately 30 volunteer positions are open in 2002 at the American Museum of Natural History's Southwestern Research Station in Portal, Arizona. The volunteer program is run annually and offers students in biological sciences outstanding opportunities to observe and become involved with scientists doing field research. Food and lodging are provided to volunteers in exchange for twenty-four hours per week of routine chores, with the remaining time available for research activities. The program is open to both undergraduate and graduate students; the latter may pursue their own research projects. The program is open to non-students as well, particularly in the spring and fall. Volunteers are needed between March 15 and November 1. Appointments are for part of this period, with a minimum appointment of six weeks. Applicants for spring positions (March-May) should submit applications by February 15, summer volunteers (June-August) by April 1, and fall volunteers (September-November) may apply any time. For applications, write: Dr. Wade C. Sherbrooke, Director, Southwestern Research Station, American Museum of Natural History, P.O. Box 16553, Portal, AZ 85632 USA; phone/fax: 520-558-2396; e-mail: swrs@amnh.org COOKS - Southwestern Research Station, American Museum of Natural History, has openings for two full-time, permanent cooks. Applicant should have experience with all aspects of meal preparation for groups of 30-70 guests. Compensation includes housing/meals, excellent medical, dental, retirement benefits, in addition to salary. For more information contact: Dr. Wade C. Sherbrooke, Director, Southwestern Research Station, American Museum of Natural History, P.O. Box 16553, Portal, AZ 85632 USA; phone/fax: 520-558-2396; e-mail: swrs@amnh.org SEASONAL STAFF ASSISTANT - Southwestern Research Station, American Museum of Natural History has an opening for a seasonal staff assistant March 15 - September 2002 (end date flexible). Assist in operations of biological research station office, nature shop, and guest rooms: taking reservations, answering phones, greeting guests, working with volunteers in housekeeping, general staff assistance. Five-day week; salary $250/week, plus room (shared) and board, and medical benefits. Applicant must be conscientious, organized, and flexible; must enjoy people, and be interested in living in a remote setting and working with biological researchers. Biological training an asset. Call and send resume to: Dr. Wade C. Sherbrooke, Director, Southwestern Research Station, American Museum of Natural History, P.O. Box 16553, Portal, AZ 85632 USA; phone/fax: 520-558-2396; e-mail: swrs@amnh.org --=====================_24438801==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"  
The Southwestern Research Station in Portal, Arizona has openings for volunteers, cooks, and a seasonal staff assistant in 2002.


VOLUNTEERS - Approximately 30 volunteer positions are open in 2002 at the American Museum of Natural History's Southwestern Research Station in Portal, Arizona.  The volunteer program is run annually and offers students in biological sciences outstanding opportunities to observe and become involved with scientists doing field research.

Food and lodging are provided to volunteers in exchange for twenty-four hours per week of routine chores, with the remaining time available for research activities. The program is open to both undergraduate and graduate students; the latter may pursue their own research projects.  The program is open to non-students as well, particularly in the spring and fall.

Volunteers are needed between March 15 and November 1. Appointments are for part of this period, with a minimum appointment of six weeks.  Applicants for spring positions (March-May) should submit applications by February 15, summer volunteers (June-August) by April 1, and fall volunteers (September-November) may apply any time.

For applications, write: Dr. Wade C. Sherbrooke, Director, Southwestern Research Station, American Museum of Natural History, P.O. Box 16553, Portal, AZ  85632 USA; phone/fax: 520-558-2396; e-mail: swrs@amnh.org

COOKS - Southwestern Research Station, American Museum of Natural History, has openings for two full-time, permanent cooks.  Applicant should have experience with all aspects of meal preparation for groups of 30-70 guests.  Compensation includes housing/meals, excellent medical, dental, retirement benefits, in addition to salary.

For more information contact: Dr. Wade C. Sherbrooke, Director, Southwestern Research Station, American Museum of Natural History, P.O. Box 16553, Portal, AZ  85632  USA; phone/fax: 520-558-2396; e-mail: swrs@amnh.org

SEASONAL STAFF ASSISTANT - Southwestern Research Station, American Museum of Natural History has an opening for a seasonal staff assistant March 15 - September 2002 (end date flexible).  Assist in operations of biological research station office, nature shop, and guest rooms: taking reservations, answering phones, greeting guests, working with volunteers in housekeeping, general staff assistance. Five-day week; salary $250/week, plus room (shared) and board, and medical benefits.  Applicant must be conscientious, organized, and flexible; must enjoy people, and be interested in living in a remote setting and working with biological researchers.  Biological training an asset.

Call and send resume to: Dr. Wade C. Sherbrooke, Director, Southwestern Research Station, American Museum of Natural History, P.O. Box 16553, Portal, AZ  85632 USA;
phone/fax: 520-558-2396; e-mail: swrs@amnh.org


--=====================_24438801==_.ALT-- From lbradley@sisna.com Sat Jan 12 00:07:24 2002 From: lbradley@sisna.com (Lucy Bradley) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 17:07:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] value/danger of using Bone Meal in the low desert Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020111165711.01c74f10@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_24438831==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed We've had several questions lately about the value/danger of using Bone Meal in the low desert. According to Tom Thompson, U of A Soil Scientist: >1. Bone meal is not a very good source of Phosphorous anywhere. The >Ca-phosphates that make up bone are quite insoluble and react very slowly >if at all in soils to provide plant-available P. To compound the problem, >many bones are subjected to much more intensive processing and extraction >now than they used to be. The net effect of rigorous processing will >simply result in less plant-available P. I don't think there is much harm >in using bone meal, but I doubt it does much good either. The most likely >situation where bone meal would be effective is in highly acid soils, >where the bone Ca-phosphates would be more soluble. This situation is >very rare or nonexistent in AZ. > >2. Mad Cow Disease has never been diagnosed in the U.S. We do not >import bone meal, or ruminant byproducts, so there is no threat of >contracting Mad Cow disease from using bone meal. I think this is not a >likely way to contract BSE, in fact very unlikely. There is a nice >paragraph on this question at http://lawncarp.tripod.com/madcow.htm. --=====================_24438831==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" We've had several questions lately about the value/danger of using Bone Meal in the low desert.  According to Tom Thompson, U of A Soil Scientist:

1.      Bone meal is not a very good source of Phosphorous anywhere.  The Ca-phosphates that make up bone are quite insoluble and react very slowly if at all in soils to provide plant-available P.  To compound the problem, many bones are subjected to much more intensive processing and extraction now than they used to be. The net effect of rigorous processing will simply result in less plant-available P.  I don't think there is much harm in using bone meal, but I doubt it does much good either.  The most likely situation where bone meal would be effective is in highly acid soils, where the bone Ca-phosphates would be more soluble.  This situation is very rare or nonexistent in AZ.

2.      Mad Cow Disease has never been diagnosed in the U.S.  We do not import bone meal, or ruminant byproducts, so there is no threat of contracting Mad Cow disease from using bone meal.  I think this is not a likely way to contract BSE, in fact very unlikely.  There is a nice paragraph on this question at http://lawncarp.tripod.com/madcow.htm.
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I have a red fairy duster and two sage varieties that have been in the ground about 9 years that I want to move. They are on a drip system and are too big for their location. Thanks for any help you can offer! From umiller@azdps.com Sat Jan 12 01:44:29 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 18:44:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hot Spot In-Reply-To: <75B9E334-06A1-11D6-A737-000A27B35DB2@home.com> Message-ID: How about Cape Honeysuckle? This bush has dark green small leaves with bright orange flowers and doesn't need a huge amount of water. They need occasional trimming and pruning to keep them tidy looking, but are basically low-maintenance bushes. You can prune them to whatever height you want. I have 4 against a south-facing wall and they do very well. Bonus: They attract hummingbirds. Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Charles B Voll Sent: Friday, January 11, 2002 7:43 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hot Spot I live on a small lot in Val Vista Lakes in Gilbert. I want to replace three, too large bougainvillea growing against a light colored, two story, stucco, south facing, house wall with, ideally, a low maintenance, at times colorful, much smaller shrub or bush. This environment appears to greatly restrict choices. What do you suggest? Thank you. Charlie Voll _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From earleburd1@man.com Sat Jan 12 21:10:37 2002 From: earleburd1@man.com (earleburd1@man.com) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 14:10:37 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201122110.g0CLAbn04503@Ag.arizona.edu> We have seven foot high bouganvillia and cape honeysuckle which were severely damaged by the hail. We want them to look a good as possible March first. Should prune before then; if yes, when? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Jan 12 21:35:57 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 16:35:57 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvillea, pruning Message-ID: --part1_c.214fd95b.2972063d_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Since bougainvillea and cape honeysuckle are quite frost tender it is best to wait until after danger of frost is past to prune them. That last frost date in Maricopa county can vary from mid February to mid March depending on where you live. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_c.214fd95b.2972063d_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Since bougainvillea and cape honeysuckle are quite frost tender it is best to wait until after danger of frost is past to prune them. That last frost date in Maricopa county can vary from mid February to mid March depending on where you live.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_c.214fd95b.2972063d_boundary-- From stark3@att.net Sun Jan 13 04:15:42 2002 From: stark3@att.net (stark3@att.net) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 21:15:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201130415.g0D4Fgn10713@Ag.arizona.edu> What is the name of the tree that I have been seeing in newer developments lately? It has small, ferny-type leaves, and grows quite tall quite quickly. In fact, some of the trees in my neighborhood are trimmed up nicely (they are planted fairly close to the house), but others are extremely shaggy and unpleasant looking. Some of the unkempt ones actually have dense foliage all the way down to the soil. From tabeauaz@aol.com Sun Jan 13 04:18:47 2002 From: tabeauaz@aol.com (tabeauaz@aol.com) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 21:18:47 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201130418.g0D4Iln10945@Ag.arizona.edu> Hi,can you give me some information on lawns. I have some grass in my yard, and some very bare spots. I do have 2 dogs,and of course they contribute to the bare spots. Will I need to completely turn the ground over? And or add something to get those patches to produce grass? I would prefer to put in a bermuda(in the spring/summer) also. Thanks for your help. From umiller@azdps.com Sun Jan 13 10:57:03 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 03:57:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] What Type of Tree In-Reply-To: <200201130415.g0D4Fgn10713@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Could it be a mesquite? These trees have small leaves and the trees grow tall. They can be planted fairly close to a house. When not pruned at all, some of them become huge "shrubs" with branches touching the ground. Some of these Mesquite "shrubs" can be seen along highways. I remember seeing some of these untrimmed ones along Route 101 near Union Hills/Thunderbird Roads. There is a picture of a chilean mesquite with a closeup of the leaves at this web site: http://www.plantadviser.com/plants/proschil.shtml Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of stark3@att.net Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2002 9:16 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What is the name of the tree that I have been seeing in newer developments lately? It has small, ferny-type leaves, and grows quite tall quite quickly. In fact, some of the trees in my neighborhood are trimmed up nicely (they are planted fairly close to the house), but others are extremely shaggy and unpleasant looking. Some of the unkempt ones actually have dense foliage all the way down to the soil. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From rbrand@mindspring.com Sun Jan 13 18:11:06 2002 From: rbrand@mindspring.com (rbrand@mindspring.com) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 11:11:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201131811.g0DIB6n11058@Ag.arizona.edu> I have several texas sage plants that seem to be struggling.I would like to know how often to water and when to add plant food From rbrand@mindspring.com Sun Jan 13 18:12:26 2002 From: rbrand@mindspring.com (rbrand@mindspring.com) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 11:12:26 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201131812.g0DICQn11145@Ag.arizona.edu> I have several texas sage plants that seem to be struggling.I would like to know how often to w ater and when to add plant food Thank You R Brand From jkandell@twistedclicks.com Sun Jan 13 18:25:40 2002 From: jkandell@twistedclicks.com (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 11:25:40 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] need for greensand/kelp Message-ID: <008001c19c61$c716b740$dba20404@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0070_01C19C25.0822B5A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Am I right that we in southern az don't need to add expensive = greensand/kelp since our soils are ripe with micronutrients and K? jk ------=_NextPart_000_0070_01C19C25.0822B5A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Am I right that we in southern az don't need to = add=20 expensive greensand/kelp since our soils are ripe with micronutrients = and=20 K?
 
jk
------=_NextPart_000_0070_01C19C25.0822B5A0-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Jan 13 18:47:47 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 18:47:47 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Texas Ranger, watering Message-ID: Here is a response from Linda Guy to a similar question: It's quite possible that you are watering your Texas sage too much. Once established, it requires limited supplemental irrigation, enough just to look good, in the summer. On the other hand, it has got to be the most misplaced plant I've seen in many commercial landscapes. These are huge plants that are invariably sheared to 2.5' snowballs. Properly placed, there is limited need to prune except to renew woody segments. I mention this because if yours is being pruned abundantly, you are taking off the flowering stalks, too. Good luck! Linda Guy, MG Any another from Rod McKusick: The Texas Ranger is quite drought tolerant and does not require a lot of water. The yellow leaves are caused by overwatering. This time of year watering once every three to four weeks is adequate. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist Most native shrubs need little or no supplemental plant food. If anything, just a little ammonium sulphate in the spring. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: rbrand@mindspring.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 11:11:06 -0700 (MST) > >I have several texas sage plants that seem to be struggling.I would like to >know how often to water and when to add plant food > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Jan 13 19:15:07 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 14:15:07 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tree ID Message-ID: <131.7180862.297336bb@aol.com> --part1_131.7180862.297336bb_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sorry but I'll need more information to identify a tree with ferny leaves since there are several that will fit that description such as mesquite, palo verde, lysiloma, jacaranda, sweet acacia as well as others. Why not take a walk through a nursery with a leaf sample, a knowledgeable nurseryman should be able to help you, or bring the sample to Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for ID. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_131.7180862.297336bb_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sorry but I'll need more information to identify a tree with ferny leaves since there are several that will fit that description such as mesquite, palo verde, lysiloma, jacaranda, sweet acacia as well as others.

Why not take a walk through a nursery with a leaf sample, a knowledgeable nurseryman should be able to help you, or bring the sample to Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for ID.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener   
--part1_131.7180862.297336bb_boundary-- From mmb@storyteller.net Sun Jan 13 16:37:48 2002 From: mmb@storyteller.net (Michelle B) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 09:37:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] jacaranda/chinaberry questions Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020113092844.00b3fc70@mail.storyteller.net> Can the jacaranda successfully grow in a bermuda/rye lawn? I am not concerned about tree litter, but am wondering about irrigation, or any other potential problems. I am in Avondale, AZ. Sunset zone 13. Also, which month is the best time to transplant a jacaranda? And a chinaberry? Thank you for your help! Michelle ****************************************** We Hate Snoring http://www.wehatesnoring.com From Jeepstermom83@hotmail.com Sun Jan 13 22:49:19 2002 From: Jeepstermom83@hotmail.com (Jeepstermom83@hotmail.com) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 15:49:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201132249.g0DMnJn06164@Ag.arizona.edu> A while back I read a article about a gentleman who grew, among many other thing, blueberries, and cherries in his yard. Also out at Duncan Farms they grow blackberries. What type of Blueberries, cherries and blackberries are they and when would I plant them? From Jeepstermom83@hotmail.com Sun Jan 13 22:51:07 2002 From: Jeepstermom83@hotmail.com (Jeepstermom83@hotmail.com) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 15:51:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201132251.g0DMp7n06392@Ag.arizona.edu> A while back I read a article about a gentleman who grew, among many other thing, blueberries, and cherries in his yard. Also out at Duncan Farms they grow blackberries. What type of Blueberries, cherries and blackberries are they and when would I plant them? Sincerly, Cindy From CAMADESAL@aol.com Mon Jan 14 02:12:12 2002 From: CAMADESAL@aol.com (CAMADESAL@aol.com) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 21:12:12 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] remove from list serve Message-ID: <130.7a7e245.2973987c@aol.com> please remove from listserv From mschroedersprint1@earthlink.net Mon Jan 14 03:56:38 2002 From: mschroedersprint1@earthlink.net (mschroedersprint1@earthlink.net) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 20:56:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201140356.g0E3ucn08056@Ag.arizona.edu> We have heard there is now a thornless variety of bouganvilla available. Can you tell us if the thornless variety exists and where we can find it in the East Valley area? Thanks! From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Jan 14 05:11:33 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 05:11:33 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] blackberries, blueberries, cherries Message-ID: THere are several varieties of blackberries developed at Texas A&M that will perform in our desert climates. We are growing "Rosborough" in our demonstration gardens in Tucson. I do not know of any blueberries that will grow well in the desert; they prefer acid soil and cooler temperatures. I heard a rumor a couple of years ago about research work to develop a blueberry that would perform in the desert, but have never heard any reasults. Cherries need more winter chilling that we experience if you want fruit. The Master Gardener Manual has a chapter on gruit: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/fruit/ Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Jeepstermom83@hotmail.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 15:51:07 -0700 (MST) > >A while back I read a article about a gentleman who grew, among many other >thing, blueberries, and cherries in his yard. Also out at Duncan Farms they >grow blackberries. What type of Blueberries, cherries and blackberries are >they and when would I plant them? > > Sincerly, Cindy > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From JMerzenich@cs.com Mon Jan 14 06:23:37 2002 From: JMerzenich@cs.com (JMerzenich@cs.com) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 23:23:37 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201140623.g0E6Nbn22376@Ag.arizona.edu> My wife and I are retired and live in Desert Hot Springs, California. (15 miles north of Palm Springs) In our front yard we have a beautiful very large saguaro cactus. It began to lean a few weeks ago and we are holding it in place with car towing nylon straps. A faulty sprinkler valve is responsible for this. There is also a noticable black liquid leaking out of the bottom were it is even with the soil. The bottom of the cactus looks to us like it is sick or infected. The sprinkler is capped now and we have placed 4 bags of planting soil around it after removing some of the original soil. THE QUESTION is what else can we do to help the poor cactus. Your suggestioins / help is appreciated. Thanks in advance, Jack and Renate From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Jan 14 13:19:08 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 13:19:08 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Saguaro, bacterial necrosis Message-ID: It may be bacterial necrosis. You can read about this and see if the description fits at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/sag Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: JMerzenich@cs.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 23:23:37 -0700 (MST) > >My wife and I are retired and live in Desert Hot Springs, California. (15 >miles north of Palm Springs) In our front yard we have a beautiful very >large saguaro cactus. It began to lean a few weeks ago and we are holding >it in place with car towing nylon straps. A faulty sprinkler valve is >responsible for this. There is also a noticable black liquid leaking out of >the bottom were it is even with the soil. The bottom of the cactus looks to >us like it is sick or infected. The sprinkler is capped now and we have >placed 4 bags of planting soil around it after removing some of the >original soil. THE QUESTION is what else can we do to help the poor cactus. >Your suggestioins / help is appreciated. >Thanks in advance, Jack and Renate > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Mon Jan 14 13:21:46 2002 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 06:21:46 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Saguaro problem References: <200201140623.g0E6Nbn22376@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <005e01c19cfe$6cde0380$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> Your saguaro has bacterial necrosis. This is a potentially fatal disease You will need to remove the diseased tissue. (Be careful of the rot, it will stain anything it touches) You will need a sharp knife, rubbing alcohol, paper towels, and a scoop or spoon. Start cutting out the bad spot.. But every time you cut, wipe the knife with the alcohol so you don't spread the infection. Keep cutting or scooping out all the rot until you have removed it all as well as about 1/2 inch of the surrounding healthy tissue. Clean up the hole once all of the rot is removed. Remember to rinse your tools with the alcohol every time you use them. Use the knife or scoop to clean up any jagged edges, then make sure the hole you've made tapers to the outside. This will ensure that any water or rain will drain out of the hole. The hole will always be a scar on the plant, so the cleaner you make it the less unsightly it will be. Thoroughly rinse the hole with a 10% bleach solution. Do not fill the hole with anything, leave open to dry. I highly recommend that you obtain the publication "8837 Bacterial Necrosis of Saguaro". To order This publication, send your request, and $1.00 to: Home Horticulture Publications University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 This publication contains a more complete description of the causes and treatment of the disease. As to the leaning problem, there are local businesses here in Phoenix that have specialized equipment that is used do dig up, straighten and replant saguaro. There is some controversy as to the success rate of this process. If you decide to pursue this, look in your yellow pages for companies who provide this service. Scott Rogers MG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2002 11:23 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > My wife and I are retired and live in Desert Hot Springs, California. (15 miles north of Palm Springs) In our front yard we have a beautiful very large saguaro cactus. It began to lean a few weeks ago and we are holding it in place with car towing nylon straps. A faulty sprinkler valve is responsible for this. There is also a noticable black liquid leaking out of the bottom were it is even with the soil. The bottom of the cactus looks to us like it is sick or infected. The sprinkler is capped now and we have placed 4 bags of planting soil around it after removing some of the original soil. THE QUESTION is what else can we do to help the poor cactus. Your suggestioins / help is appreciated. > Thanks in advance, Jack and Renate > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From SheDav@webtv.net Mon Jan 14 14:09:55 2002 From: SheDav@webtv.net (bon bon) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 07:09:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: to Michelle B. in Avondale In-Reply-To: arid_gardener-request@Ag.arizona.edu's message of Sun, 13 Jan 2002 20:58:39 -0700 (MST) Message-ID: <12935-3C42E6B3-3850@storefull-215.iap.bryant.webtv.net> There is a west valley nursery which advertised jacarondas on sale for 8 bucks. I can't remember which one, but I think it was located at about Cotton Ln. and Bethany Home. If you have last weeks West Valley View, the ad is in there. Maybe you will find it in this Wed. issue. Sheri in Buckeye. From jkandell@twistedclicks.com Mon Jan 14 15:43:40 2002 From: jkandell@twistedclicks.com (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 08:43:40 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] need for greensand/kelp References: Message-ID: <002801c19d14$0d47ca80$91a20404@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C19CD7.910AF280 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Carol, I realize we need to add tons of organic matter to our "crummy" = (I wish!) soil. My question was whether we need to add trace minerals = (usually through greensand or kelp) the way folks do in other parts of = the country. Unfortunately, I don't have a vehicle capable of transporting horse = poop, which is readily available here also. So I have to buy steer = manure at Home Depot and use Starbuck's free coffee grounds. Jonathan ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Carol Lydic=20 To: Jonathan Kandell=20 Sent: Monday, January 14, 2002 6:24 AM Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] need for greensand/kelp Hello, Jonathan: Well, unless you found a bit of heaven in this = 100,000 square mile sandbox, you're going to need to amend your soil as = long as you garden. The good news is that you don't need to spend an = arm and a leg at the nursery if you know someone with a horse and = grass. I compost here in Gila County, and my soil looks like Kansas! I = really don't do anything else.=20 =20 PS: There isn't any difference in our soil up here and that down at = lower elevations. It's all crummy!! =20 Carol Lydic Gila County Master Gardener and Master Composter -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu = [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Jonathan Kandell Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2002 11:26 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] need for greensand/kelp Am I right that we in southern az don't need to add expensive = greensand/kelp since our soils are ripe with micronutrients and K? jk ------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C19CD7.910AF280 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Carol, I realize we need to add tons of organic = matter to=20 our "crummy" (I wish!) soil.  My question was whether we need to = add trace=20 minerals (usually through greensand or kelp) the way folks do in other = parts of=20 the country.
 
Unfortunately, I don't have a vehicle capable of = transporting horse poop, which is readily available here also.  So = I have=20 to buy  steer manure at Home Depot and use Starbuck's free coffee=20 grounds.
 
Jonathan
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Carol Lydic=20
To: Jonathan Kandell
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2002 = 6:24=20 AM
Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] = need for=20 greensand/kelp

Hello, Jonathan:  Well, unless you = found a bit=20 of heaven in this 100,000 square mile sandbox, you're going to need to = amend=20 your soil as long as you garden.  The good news is that you don't = need to=20 spend an arm and  a leg at the nursery if you know someone with a = horse=20 and grass.  I compost here in Gila County, and my soil looks like = Kansas!  I really don't do anything else.
 
PS:  There isn't any difference in our = soil up=20 here and that down at lower elevations.  It's all=20 crummy!!
 
Carol Lydic
Gila County Master Gardener and Master=20 Composter
-----Original Message-----
From:=20 arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu=20 [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of = Jonathan=20 Kandell
Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2002 11:26 = AM
To:=20 arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: [Arid_gardener] need = for=20 greensand/kelp

Am I right that we in southern az don't need = to add=20 expensive greensand/kelp since our soils are ripe with = micronutrients and=20 K?
 
jk
------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C19CD7.910AF280-- From gardenguru" Message-ID: <03fc01c19d15$6563d500$5ffacbd8@ibm22761658747> The advise from Scott on your saguaro's necrosis is very important. This is a very distruction disease that affects saguaros and can be fatal. 15 years ago it attacked a 20 ft saguaro in my yard and I ignored it. ( not very bright). The oozing fluid removed the water that filled the sketeton framework that supports the massive weight above it. It took about 3 months and one morning my saguaro toppled over and it was very costly to have it cut up and removed. I was lucky that it did not hit my house when it fell since it weighed about a ton. Wish you luck Gardenguru - Master Gardener From cdmunoz@earthlink.net Mon Jan 14 16:43:00 2002 From: cdmunoz@earthlink.net (cdmunoz@earthlink.net) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 09:43:00 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201141643.g0EGh0e03021@Ag.arizona.edu> I live in Chandler, in the Ocotillo area. I want to plant some tomatoes. For the Spring planting, when is the best time to plant them and which variety does best for this climate? Since temperatures can get cold over night and can get very hot during the day, how do you care for them to get the best results? I have a very limited space. What other kinds of vegetables are easy to grow and do well for this climate? Thank you for all your information, Cherri Munoz From srapp@pbplastics.com Mon Jan 14 17:04:10 2002 From: srapp@pbplastics.com (srapp@pbplastics.com) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 10:04:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201141704.g0EH42e08172@Ag.arizona.edu> >Location: phoenix, arizona >at this time, my irigation system is down, and i have been hand watering >my plants for about 9 months. everything is going well and nothing has >died on me, but i need some advise on planting some cacti. >i bought 24 echeveris ramilette which is orange bouquet version of a >cacti. i would like to plant this very soon, but am not sure if i can do >this without having a watering system with it. i thought since this plant >only needs to be "drenched when dry" it wouldn't make a difference. what >do you think??? >also, since i am in arizona, and can't dig deep, i was going to build a >planter box system up about 3 feet - what type of soil or fertilizer or >compost should i plant this in??? >thanks for your time - and your attention on this matter. From millero@worldnet.att.net Mon Jan 14 19:07:50 2002 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 12:07:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] need for greensand/kelp References: <002801c19d14$0d47ca80$91a20404@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <002501c19d2f$03b98c40$1150530c@j0r9501> Our desert soils are rich in many trace minerals and micro nutrients. Calling it "crummy" seems a little extreme. But if we insist on growing plants that do not belong here then, as Carol said, we will need to continuously add something that these non-adapted plants need. I am not really knowledgeable about greensand but I believe it contains iron potassium silicate. There are other ways to apply iron and I am not convinced the addition of potassium is necessary. And while hauling truckloads of kelp out of the ocean to put on soil probably has minimal effect on marine life, it is something to think about. Animal manures are good soil conditioners. Some are fairly rich in nutrients but most are diluted by the addition of bedding such as straw, sawdust, leaves etc. The usual recommendation for ammonium sulfate at 21 % N is to add 4 - 8 lbs per 1000 sqft (AZ 1020). Doing the math using the arithmetic average of the N concentrations, it would require 114 lbs of pure dairy cow manure to apply the same amount of nitrogen at the typical 0.6 - 1.6 N concentration. Note that AZ 1020 recommends 400 - 800 lbs of "Manure + Straw" per 1,000 sqft. To grow vegetables in the desert, you will need to modify the soil reaction which can be done to some extent with the addition of animal manures but usually also requires the addition of some form of sulfur. The addition of nitrogen and phosphorus or phosphate fertilizers is also necessary. One could possibly rely entirely on animal manures but it would require lots of it. The addition of animal manures will also help make the Ca in our soil available to plants. Some gardeners also add iron to vegetable gardens. The questions in the original post suggest an "organic" gardening solution is desired. I have tried organic gardening in the past but found that it was too much work for the return. Although I haven't used pesticides for years (neither chemical nor organic - gophers excluded), I still use soil sulfur, agricultural gypsum, ammonium sulfate, and ammonium phosphate. But with the annual addition of manure, I have been able to reduce the application of the ammonium fertilizers to half the recommended rates. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jonathan Kandell" Carol, I realize we need to add tons of organic matter to our "crummy" (I wish!) soil. My question was whether we need to add trace minerals (usually through greensand or kelp) the way folks do in other parts of the country. Unfortunately, I don't have a vehicle capable of transporting horse poop, which is readily available here also. So I have to buy steer manure at Home Depot and use Starbuck's free coffee grounds. ----- Original Message ----- From: Carol Lydic Hello, Jonathan: Well, unless you found a bit of heaven in this 100,000 square mile sandbox, you're going to need to amend your soil as long as you garden. The good news is that you don't need to spend an arm and a leg at the nursery if you know someone with a horse and grass. I compost here in Gila County, and my soil looks like Kansas! I really don't do anything else. PS: There isn't any difference in our soil up here and that down at lower elevations. It's all crummy!! From ELDERESLC@AOL.COM Mon Jan 14 23:00:50 2002 From: ELDERESLC@AOL.COM (ELDERESLC@AOL.COM) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 16:00:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201142300.g0EN0ne09996@Ag.arizona.edu> LAST FALL I RE-SEEDED MY LAWN AND IT TURNED OUT GREAT WITH YOUR ADVISE ON THE MATTER. I WAS WONDERING, COME THIS SPRING OR SUMMER, DO I NEED TO GO THOUGH THE SAME PROSESS WITH A DIFFERENT KIND OF SEED ? IF SO, WHAT KIND OF SEED AND WHAT TIME OF YEAR WOULD YOU SUGGEST ? THANKS AGAIN FOR YOUR HELP, ED From umiller@azdps.com Mon Jan 14 23:09:18 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 16:09:18 -0700 Subject: FW: [Arid_gardener] What Type of Tree Message-ID: Well, it looks like it's not a mesquite. Do anybody have a better idea than I had in response to this question? Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: stark3@att.net [mailto:stark3@att.net] Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2002 8:59 PM To: Ursula Miller Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] What Type of Tree Ursula, I guess I should have offered more info. This particular tree is extremely tall, even taller than the two story houses it surrounds. Also, it is an evergreen, with a narrow canopy. I'll try to get a leaf sample and take it to a nursery, but maybe you can identify it with the new info. Thanks for any help you can offer.... > Could it be a mesquite? These trees have small leaves and the trees grow > tall. They can be planted fairly close to a house. When not pruned at all, > some of them become huge "shrubs" with branches touching the ground. Some > of these Mesquite "shrubs" can be seen along highways. I remember seeing > some of these untrimmed ones along Route 101 near Union Hills/Thunderbird > Roads. > > There is a picture of a chilean mesquite with a closeup of the leaves at > this web site: http://www.plantadviser.com/plants/proschil.shtml > > > Ursula Miller > Not a Master Gardener > > -----Original Message----- > From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu > [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of stark3@att.net > Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2002 9:16 PM > To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > What is the name of the tree that I have been seeing in newer developments > lately? It has small, ferny-type leaves, and grows quite tall quite > quickly. In fact, some of the trees in my neighborhood are trimmed up > nicely (they are planted fairly close to the house), but others are > extremely shaggy and unpleasant looking. Some of the unkempt ones actually > have dense foliage all the way down to the soil. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From bellbarbara48@hotmail.com Tue Jan 15 02:07:57 2002 From: bellbarbara48@hotmail.com (bellbarbara48@hotmail.com) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 19:07:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201150207.g0F27ve09574@Ag.arizona.edu> When is the best time to cut back the Bougainvillea? We have some frost damage. From vpchopz@prodigy.net Tue Jan 15 02:18:45 2002 From: vpchopz@prodigy.net (vpchopz@prodigy.net) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 19:18:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201150218.g0F2Ije10776@Ag.arizona.edu> What would be the perfect fertilization program for bermuda lawn/ overseeded with perenial rye on winter. If assuming the growing conditions are good ( soil, watering, mowing schedules, etc.). From umiller@azdps.com Tue Jan 15 03:14:02 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 20:14:02 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cutting Back Bougainvillea In-Reply-To: <200201150207.g0F27ve09574@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Wait until chances of frost are past. I usually wait until March. Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of bellbarbara48@hotmail.com Sent: Monday, January 14, 2002 7:08 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When is the best time to cut back the Bougainvillea? We have some frost damage. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Sundance2xyz@aol.com Tue Jan 15 09:26:55 2002 From: Sundance2xyz@aol.com (Sundance2xyz@aol.com) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 02:26:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201150926.g0F9Qte12385@Ag.arizona.edu> To prevent suckers from growing on palo verde, when is the best time to prune. I have mostly minor pruning but some will require much more shaping.... Thanks much........ From Sundance2xyz@aol.com Tue Jan 15 09:34:39 2002 From: Sundance2xyz@aol.com (Sundance2xyz@aol.com) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 02:34:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201150934.g0F9Yde13094@Ag.arizona.edu> Ocotillo: We purchased some land and found a large ocotillo that has grown sideways. Since I would like more accent plants I would like to cut the branches/stems of the ocotillo and porpogate them. If that is possible, when and how should I do this? Is watering required afterwards? I don't know if it makes any difference but we live in the desert region in New River. Thanks much........ From sjbass@qwest.net Tue Jan 15 13:56:34 2002 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 06:56:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ocotillo cuttings References: <200201150934.g0F9Yde13094@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C443512.E2E84CF5@qwest.net> You can take cuttings of ocotillos and plant them an eventually the branch will leaf and sometimes even flower, however, it will not grow into an entirely new plant. It will remain the one stick. This is seen in ocotillo fences, where branches are planted into the ground close together to surround a garden (sometimes called coyote fences). The only way to get a completely new plant, multibranched, is to purchase one from a nursery. Sue Bass Master Gardener ArdnSundance2xyz@aol.com wrote: > Ocotillo: We purchased some land and found a large ocotillo that has grown sideways. Since I would like more accent plants I would like to cut the branches/stems of the ocotillo and porpogate them. If that is possible, when and how should I do this? Is watering required afterwards? > > I don't know if it makes any difference but we live in the desert region in New River. > > Thanks much........ > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From cincokidz@yahoo.com Tue Jan 15 16:32:55 2002 From: cincokidz@yahoo.com (cincokidz@yahoo.com) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 09:32:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201151632.g0FGWte18680@Ag.arizona.edu> We have had several trees die since last summer. Two Brazilian Peppers and two Sweet Acacias. There were six acacias planted in a row. Another hasn't grown and I'm worried about the rest. Also Two Texas Honey Mesquites look more like Charlie Brown's christmas tree. All the trees were planted June of 2000. We have had one arborist come and tell us the trees were all planted too deep, and are being watered to close to the trunk. A second tree company said he thinks it's an overwatering problem. How do I determine the problem and correct it before I lose more trees? And what, if any, recourse do I have with the original landscape company? From gardenguru" Message-ID: <056001c19de4$532dcf60$5ffacbd8@ibm22761658747> Ed, The seed you used in the fall was Rye seed and it is an annual grass and must be seeded each fall as your permanant grass goes dormant. If your permanant grass is one of the bermuda hybrids or bermuda grown from seed, you do not have re-seed it in the spring. You only have to wait for the temperature to rise above 80, feed it and water it and it will come out of dormancy - then turn up your lawnmower GG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, January 14, 2002 4:00 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > LAST FALL I RE-SEEDED MY LAWN AND IT TURNED OUT GREAT WITH YOUR ADVISE ON THE MATTER. I WAS WONDERING, COME THIS SPRING OR SUMMER, DO I NEED TO GO THOUGH THE SAME PROSESS WITH A DIFFERENT KIND OF SEED ? IF SO, WHAT KIND OF SEED AND WHAT TIME OF YEAR WOULD YOU SUGGEST ? > THANKS AGAIN FOR YOUR HELP, > ED > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From mrno99@att.net Tue Jan 15 16:47:31 2002 From: mrno99@att.net (mrno99@att.net) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 09:47:31 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201151647.g0FGlVe22047@Ag.arizona.edu> I have an Amaryllis that has dropped its blooms. I would like to plant it outdoors. How do I trim the stalks, and when should I plant it out doors. Is there any special care that needs to be accomplished for it to bloom again in the fall/spring? Appreciate any information. From mpelczynsk@aol.com Tue Jan 15 18:09:25 2002 From: mpelczynsk@aol.com (mpelczynsk@aol.com) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 11:09:25 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201151809.g0FI9Pe11861@Ag.arizona.edu> Live on the north slope of south mountain. Lots of big cactus, creosote, ironwood and palo verdes. Hired a reputable(?) landscape guy to help us create a sonoran theme. Most of the plants have died off. Apparently he forgot to mention that we would need to treat our alkaline soil. We have big white salt rings around all irrigated areas. The question is how best to correct this? I would like to try again on y own this spring. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Jan 15 21:19:43 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 16:19:43 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Jacaranda, planted in a turf lawn Message-ID: <107.b4fc4e5.2975f6ef@aol.com> --part1_107.b4fc4e5.2975f6ef_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Since the Jacaranda does not like wet feet I would question the advisability of planting the tree in turf. The best time to plant a jacaranda is in the spring after danger of frost is past. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_107.b4fc4e5.2975f6ef_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Since the Jacaranda does not like wet feet I would question the advisability of planting the tree in turf.

The best time to plant a jacaranda is in the spring after danger of frost is past.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_107.b4fc4e5.2975f6ef_boundary-- From jbegeman@Ag.arizona.edu Tue Jan 15 22:01:49 2002 From: jbegeman@Ag.arizona.edu (John Begeman) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 15:01:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] French Garden Tour Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20020115143040.00a4d7d0@ag.arizona.edu> The Second Annual French Garden Tour "Paris to Provence" is scheduled for departure from Tucson on July 21, 2002. This 13 day, 12 night tour includes some of the most spectacular gardens in all of Europe; including Monet's garden at Giverney, the Loire Valley chateau gardens of Villandry and Chenonceau, Villa Ephrusi Rothschild in Nice, and the Exotic Gardens of Monaco and Eze, to name just a few. In addition this tour includes visits to the lavender fields of Provence, the International Perfume Museum in Grasse, and a day touring the private gardens of Provence with noted garden writer Louisa Jones - author of "Gardens in Provence" and "The French Country Garden". For a detailed tour itinerary and reservation form visit the tour web-site at: www.gildedagetours.com John P. Begeman, M.S. Urban Horticulture Agent Pima County Cooperative Extension Phone: (520) 626-5161 Fax: (520) 626-5849 jbegeman@ag.arizona.edu From gardenguru" Message-ID: <05ae01c19e16$ebdd42e0$5ffacbd8@ibm22761658747> The County Extersion service has created several documents that are available to help you with your loss of trees. All are shown on the web page below and some of them are available on line. The balance are available from the county extension office for $1 each by mail or free in person. The location of the Extension offices : In Phoenix Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 (602) 470-8086 ext. 301 8:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. Monday through Friday In the West Valley: 13815 Camino del Sol Sun City West, AZ 85375 (623) 546-1672 9:00 a.m. - 1:00 p.m. Monday through Friday In the East Valley: 7550 East Adobe Red Mountain Multi Generational Center Mesa, AZ 85207 (480) 985-0338 9:00 a.m. - 12:00 p.m. Monday and Thursday In the Northeast Valley: Scottsdale Senior Center 10440 E. Via Linda Scottsdale, AZ (480) 312-5810 9:00 a.m. - 4:00 p.m. Thursday Publication Web Site - http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm I would recommend the following documents - AZ1048, AZ1022, AZ1003, 8363, 8446, 8651, MC13 and Q96. These various documents cover tree experts, desert trees - planting and care and salt damage.Check out the index on this web page. I don't have any recommendation for dealing with your orig. landscaper. Hopefully he will respond to your complaints and replace any plant that did not make it. Being well informed is usually the best way to deal with contractors and the above documents will get you up to speed quickly. Good Luck GG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2002 9:32 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > We have had several trees die since last summer. Two Brazilian Peppers and two Sweet Acacias. There were six acacias planted in a row. Another hasn't grown and I'm worried about the rest. Also Two Texas Honey Mesquites look more like Charlie Brown's christmas tree. All the trees were planted June of 2000. We have had one arborist come and tell us the trees were all planted too deep, and are being watered to close to the trunk. A second tree company said he thinks it's an overwatering problem. How do I determine the problem and correct it before I lose more trees? And what, if any, recourse do I have with the original landscape company? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Jan 15 23:01:34 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 18:01:34 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Dying trees and plants Message-ID: <11f.a2035aa.29760ece@aol.com> --part1_11f.a2035aa.29760ece_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit You reported that you lived on the north slope of South Mountain. The first thing that comes to mind is how much rock or caliche do you have where the plants are planted, and did someone check to find out if there was drainage from the planting holes. If the holes do not drain, water will collect in the bottom of the planting hole and cause the trees or plants to drown. If the above checks out ok the next step is to find out if the plants received proper irrigation. Check out this site for info on proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_11f.a2035aa.29760ece_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit You reported that you lived on the north slope of South Mountain. The first thing that comes to mind is how much rock or caliche do you have where the plants are planted, and did someone check to find out if there was drainage from the planting holes. If the holes do not drain, water will collect in the bottom of the planting hole and cause the trees or plants to drown. If the above checks out ok the next step is to find out if the plants received proper irrigation. Check out this site for info on proper irrigation:  http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_11f.a2035aa.29760ece_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Jan 15 23:02:39 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 18:02:39 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tree Problems Message-ID: <63.4f3b469.29760f0f@aol.com> --part1_63.4f3b469.29760f0f_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Since you have had two tree people tell you that watering may be the problem with your trees, I would suspect that improper irrigation may be causing trouble, which is the case with a high percentage of tree failures. I'll address planting depth, the top of the root ball of the tree should be at ground level or slightly above. The placement of drippers if used should not affect the health of the tree unless you were applying enough water to continuously keep the tree trunk at groung level under water for a 1 1/2 year old tree, although good practice dictates that drippers should be moved outward away from the trunk as the tree grows so that water placement will be near the drip line of the tree. If you will advise me as to how often you were watering currently and last summer as well as how much water was applied ( number of drippers and size of drippers ) I will be happy to advise. Where you live and the type of soil will be helpful. Check out this site for info on proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_63.4f3b469.29760f0f_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Since you have had two tree people tell you that watering may be the problem with your trees, I would suspect that improper irrigation may be causing trouble, which is the case with a high percentage of tree failures.
I'll address planting depth, the top of the root ball of the tree should be at ground level or slightly above.
The placement of drippers if used should not affect the health of the tree unless you were applying enough water to continuously keep the tree trunk at groung level under water for a 1 1/2 year old tree,  although good practice dictates that drippers should be moved outward away from the trunk as the tree grows so that water placement will be near the drip line of the tree.
If you will advise me as to how often you were watering currently and last summer as well as how much water was applied ( number of drippers and size of drippers ) I will be happy to advise.
Where you live and the type of soil will be helpful.
Check out this site for info on proper irrigation:  http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
--part1_63.4f3b469.29760f0f_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Jan 15 23:03:40 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 18:03:40 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning a Palo Verde Message-ID: --part1_a1.210bc484.29760f4c_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Nearly all desert adapted trees are best pruned during warm weather. The time of year when Palo Verdes are pruned will will not change the amount of suckering. When pruning do not remove more that 15% at one time or 30% in one year. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_a1.210bc484.29760f4c_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Nearly all desert adapted trees are best pruned during warm weather. The time of year when Palo Verdes are pruned will will not change the amount of suckering. When pruning do not remove more that 15% at one time or 30% in one year.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
--part1_a1.210bc484.29760f4c_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Jan 15 23:18:10 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 18:18:10 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf fertilization schedule Message-ID: --part1_d6.10aefa7c.297612b2_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The following website will show you the info you are looking for, click on Maintenance from the index. The schedule lists pounds of actual nitrogen per 1000 square feet of turf to be applied. http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_d6.10aefa7c.297612b2_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The following website will show you the info you are looking for, click on Maintenance from the index. The schedule lists pounds of actual nitrogen per 1000 square feet of turf to be applied. http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_d6.10aefa7c.297612b2_boundary-- From vijai9@hotmail.com Wed Jan 16 01:19:59 2002 From: vijai9@hotmail.com (vijay sekhar) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 19:19:59 -0600 Subject: [Arid_gardener] information request Message-ID: hai everybody, This is Vijaya Sekhar Pasapula, doing M.S.(plant and soil science) in Texas A&M University, Kingsville. In the future I want to do research on Cactus. At present I need some information regarding CACTUS Fertilization. Could you please help me , where can i get information of Cactus Fertilization. Thanking you. yours new member, vijaya sekhar pasapula...... add smile to ur day........................ _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From gardenguru" Message-ID: <061301c19e86$8bf24040$5ffacbd8@ibm22761658747> Our County Extension service has a document that covers the above. It is doc. 8309 and is shown on this web site - http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm. it is not avail online but can be ordered from their office. In Phoenix Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 (602) 470-8086 ext. 301 8:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. Hope this helps GG ----- Original Message ----- From: "vijay sekhar" To: Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2002 6:19 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] information request > hai everybody, > This is Vijaya Sekhar Pasapula, doing M.S.(plant and soil science) in Texas > A&M University, Kingsville. In the future I want to do research on Cactus. > At present I need some information regarding CACTUS Fertilization. Could you > please help me , where can i get information of Cactus Fertilization. > Thanking you. > > yours new member, > > vijaya sekhar pasapula...... > > > add smile to ur day........................ > > _________________________________________________________________ > Join the world's largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. > http://www.hotmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From JoeC@dlcresources.com Wed Jan 16 14:52:59 2002 From: JoeC@dlcresources.com (JoeC@dlcresources.com) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 07:52:59 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201161452.g0GEqxe19977@Ag.arizona.edu> Can you recomend a product that can block wood vegetation root growth for example: I have a client that wants me to replace there exsisting ordimental orange trees with new trees. The trees are located next to sidewalks, we want to put a root block so the sidewalks wont get damaged in the future. Any recomendations and Thank You Joe Calderone From steve.sheard@motorola.com Wed Jan 16 15:28:53 2002 From: steve.sheard@motorola.com (Stephen Sheard) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 08:28:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200201161452.g0GEqxe19977@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Contact biobarrier@reemay.com Regards Steve -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of JoeC@dlcresources.com Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 7:53 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Can you recomend a product that can block wood vegetation root growth for example: I have a client that wants me to replace there exsisting ordimental orange trees with new trees. The trees are located next to sidewalks, we want to put a root block so the sidewalks wont get damaged in the future. Any recomendations and Thank You Joe Calderone _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Jan 16 15:38:10 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 08:38:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Jacaranda/chinaberry questions References: <4.3.2.7.2.20020113092844.00b3fc70@mail.storyteller.net> Message-ID: <3C459E62.D06E261A@qwest.net> Rod's advice would have been mine as well. I'm simply writing to say that I look out at a 25+ year jacaranda everyday that is planted in the middle of my neighbors' bermuda lawn. They do not overseed in the winter, so the lawn is not watered then. And I believe they only water their lawn weekly in summer [this is an old common bermuda lawn]. This is considerably less than most other homeowners water their lawns. Linda Guy, MG Michelle B wrote: > Can the jacaranda successfully grow in a bermuda/rye lawn? I am not > concerned about tree litter, but am wondering about irrigation, or any > other potential problems. I am in Avondale, AZ. Sunset zone 13. > > Also, which month is the best time to transplant a jacaranda? And a > chinaberry? > > Thank you for your help! > Michelle > ****************************************** > We Hate Snoring > http://www.wehatesnoring.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From steve.sheard@motorola.com Wed Jan 16 15:28:53 2002 From: steve.sheard@motorola.com (Stephen Sheard) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 08:28:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200201161452.g0GEqxe19977@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Contact biobarrier@reemay.com Regards Steve -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of JoeC@dlcresources.com Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 7:53 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Can you recomend a product that can block wood vegetation root growth for example: I have a client that wants me to replace there exsisting ordimental orange trees with new trees. The trees are located next to sidewalks, we want to put a root block so the sidewalks wont get damaged in the future. Any recomendations and Thank You Joe Calderone _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Jan 16 15:53:38 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 08:53:38 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Information request References: Message-ID: <3C45A202.57E3900@qwest.net> You would do well to contact the Desert Botanical Gardens in Phoenix. PN 480/941-1225 You can read a bit about their research and conservation activities at http://www.dbg.org/ Linda Guy, MG Maricopa County [Phoenix], AZ vijay sekhar wrote: > hai everybody, > This is Vijaya Sekhar Pasapula, doing M.S.(plant and soil science) in Texas > A&M University, Kingsville. In the future I want to do research on Cactus. > At present I need some information regarding CACTUS Fertilization. Could you > please help me , where can i get information of Cactus Fertilization. > Thanking you. > > yours new member, > > vijaya sekhar pasapula...... > > add smile to ur day........................ > > _________________________________________________________________ > Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. > http://www.hotmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Jan 16 15:58:21 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 08:58:21 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Insect Control References: <200201101953.g0AJr0n05893@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C45A31D.7F344DD0@qwest.net> I should think that your insect population is considerably different than ours and your local county cooperative extension service would be more helpful. http://www.reeusda.gov/statepartners/ms.htm You would certainly need to provide a specific pest id for them to give you good advice. I've grown them here in Phoenix in the past and have not had pest problems. One local seed company to contact would be Native Seed/Search in Tucson. http://www.nativeseeds.org/ They may have some other ideas on climatic issues [humidity comes to my mind] that might also be impacting your plants. Pests are less apt to attack healthy plants, after all. Linda Guy, MG Maricopa County [Phoenix], AZ sarah.schell@stjude.org wrote: > I am trying to grow tomatillos in Mississippi. Since this is not a plant native to this area, our local ag extension is unable to supply much information. I tried to grow them last year, and the local insect population ate more of them than me. Can you supply me with any info regarding anything about these wonderful veggies? Specifically insect control would be particularly useful. > > Thank you, > Sarah Schell > > I am trying to grow tomatillos in Mississippi. Since this is not a plant native to this area, our local ag extension is unable to supply much information. I tried to grow them last year, and the local insect population ate more of them than me. Can you supply me with any info regarding anything about these wonderful veggies? Specifically insect control would be particularly useful. Really, any info you have would be very helpful. > > Thank you, > Sarah Schell > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Jan 16 16:19:13 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 09:19:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Planting Amaryllis Outdoors References: <200201062305.g06N5un00122@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C45A801.8DFA22BE@qwest.net> My bulb catalogs and the Sunset Western Grden Book all say that amaryllis can be grown outdoors in our zone [Phoenix] but I am not sharing any personal experience, just book knowledge! An old cooperative extension publication on bulbs has the following information. Plant with the tip exposed. Space bulbs 12" to 24" apart [this will be dependent on foliage height which is estimated to also be 12" to 24"]. Plant from October to March. Flowering is usually April and May [yours have already been forced early this year.] They can to well in pots or beds, but they need filtered, not direct sunlight. They can be planted in a permanent location and will not need to be dug up [if you do, you may lose the bloom cycle for a year or two]. To quote the pub an 'excellent investment.' Like most bulbs, make sure that the soil is very, very well-draining; these can easily rot. Winter rains usually provide adequate irrigation. Linda Guy, MG HRB85373@aol.com wrote: > I have heard that our Christmas Amaryllis can be planted outdoors here in the valley after it has finished blooming. Any information as to how, when, watering, and other details? Thank you! Hal > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Jan 16 16:23:33 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 09:23:33 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Amaryllis outdoors. References: <200201151647.g0FGlVe22047@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C45A905.4433F6BC@qwest.net> I just sent the following reply to another querent. Don't cut back the foliage, let it die back in spring/early summer. My bulb catalogs and the Sunset Western Grden Book all say that amaryllis can be grown outdoors in our zone [Phoenix] but I am not sharing any personal experience, just book knowledge! An old cooperative extension publication on bulbs has the following information. Plant with the tip exposed. Space bulbs 12" to 24" apart [this will be dependent on foliage height which is estimated to also be 12" to 24"]. Plant from October to March. Flowering is usually April and May [yours have already been forced early this year.] They can to well in pots or beds, but they need filtered, not direct sunlight. They can be planted in a permanent location and will not need to be dug up [if you do, you may lose the bloom cycle for a year or two]. To quote the pub an 'excellent investment.' Like most bulbs, make sure that the soil is very, very well-draining; these can easily rot. Winter rains usually provide adequate irrigation. Linda Guy, MG mrno99@att.net wrote: > I have an Amaryllis that has dropped its blooms. I would like to plant it outdoors. > How do I trim the stalks, and when should I plant it out doors. Is there any special care that needs to be accomplished for it to bloom again in the fall/spring? > > Appreciate any information. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Roomie71@aol.com Wed Jan 16 19:41:21 2002 From: Roomie71@aol.com (Roomie71@aol.com) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 12:41:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201161941.g0GJfLe03670@Ag.arizona.edu> When do I cut back my Red Fountain Grass ? From sjbass@qwest.net Wed Jan 16 22:39:17 2002 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 15:39:17 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cutting back fountain grass References: <200201161941.g0GJfLe03670@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C460115.F15FC6DD@qwest.net> Here is a response from the archives to a similar question http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-December/005943.html Sue Bass Master Gardener Roomie71@aol.com wrote: > When do I cut back my Red Fountain Grass ? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From bradleyl@Ag.arizona.edu Thu Jan 17 01:37:53 2002 From: bradleyl@Ag.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 18:37:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cool Website that pronounces desert plant names (botanical & common) Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020116183629.01d21c88@ag.arizona.edu> Desert Plant Photo's and Pronunciations http://ag.arizona.edu/agnet/projects/desert_plants/review.cgi ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ From AZamigo@aol.com Thu Jan 17 02:02:38 2002 From: AZamigo@aol.com (AZamigo@aol.com) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 19:02:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201170202.g0H22ce22255@Ag.arizona.edu> This is in response to a question regarding a fern like, narrow and tall tree growing in Phoenix. Has anyone considered this tree to be a silk oak? It is very narrow and tall, Just a suggestion. From bsotta@pol.net Thu Jan 17 04:53:57 2002 From: bsotta@pol.net (bsotta@pol.net) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 21:53:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201170453.g0H4rve07778@Ag.arizona.edu> Where can I purchase a dwarf Bonanza peach in the Phoenix-Chandler-Mesa area? Thank you. Bob From benken1@mindspring.com Thu Jan 17 05:07:43 2002 From: benken1@mindspring.com (benken1@mindspring.com) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 22:07:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201170507.g0H57he05809@Ag.arizona.edu> LOOKING FOR INFORMATION ON GROWING QUEEN PALMS FROM SEED(OR WHAT). IS THERE SOME MATERIALS AT YOUR EXTENSION CENTER? OR ONLINE? From patmcd2002@hotmail.com Thu Jan 17 15:26:10 2002 From: patmcd2002@hotmail.com (patmcd2002@hotmail.com) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 08:26:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201171526.g0HFQAe16479@Ag.arizona.edu> How are the hot deserts being protected. And how does it work. I dont want to be rudebut if its not to much trouble could you send a response fast please. THANK YOU SO VERY MUCH From patmcd2002@hotmail.com Thu Jan 17 15:29:42 2002 From: patmcd2002@hotmail.com (patmcd2002@hotmail.com) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 08:29:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201171529.g0HFTge26225@Ag.arizona.edu> Im so very sorry but its me lucy bradly my real name is Patrick McDonough. I forgot to put my name in. Im really sorry. From paul.goebel@mhmr.state.tx.us Thu Jan 17 15:29:10 2002 From: paul.goebel@mhmr.state.tx.us (paul.goebel@mhmr.state.tx.us) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 08:29:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201171529.g0HFTAe25029@Ag.arizona.edu> I had the opportunity to walk in a forest of eucalyptus trees during a recent trip to South Africa. One of the group member's asked a question that no one could answer: "Why does the bark of the eucalyptus tree peel away from the tree?" From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Thu Jan 17 16:27:41 2002 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 09:27:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lilium Bulbs References: <200201171529.g0HFTge26225@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C46FB7D.2764ADBE@email.sps.mot.com> I have a question. Do Lilies as in Lilium bulbs grow here in Metro-Phoenix? I don't recall ever seeing them at the nurseries. If so, is there any specific cares they need. Afternoon shade, specific fertilizer, etc., ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.gizmoaz.com Over 225 roses and over 140 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! Check out the Garden Cams on Saturday and Sunday!! From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Jan 17 19:22:35 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 12:22:35 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf Questions References: <200201071724.g07HOJn06724@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C47247A.CCA98585@qwest.net> Dichondra is said to make a nice substitute for turf in the shade. But I learned in my MG training that it invariably grows where you don't want it and if you try to plant it, it won't grow there. One of the agents shared that opinion. Turf options are discussed very well in the MG Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ Most of what does well in our heat will not do so well in the shade. You can run a query in our database of questions and answers to get some additional info. Mike Hills' writings on the topic [he's a turf agronomist as well as a MG] are particularly useful. Here's one example http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2001-March/006811.html Linda Guy, MG Helenzbaby@aol.com wrote: > I am inquiring about the best kind of grass to plant. I live in Yuma. We have a front yard facing east that is almost all shade ... big trees. The back yard is just the opposite with lots of sun. > Do you have any information about Dichondria? Would it make a good ground cover? > Your help will be appreciated. > Thank You > HelenzBaby@aol.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Jan 17 19:27:21 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 12:27:21 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hummingbird Gardens References: <200201072035.g07KZtn23858@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C472599.CB14D15E@qwest.net> A good place to start is a book by local author Sylvia Yoder [Desert Hummingbird Gardens]. Many garden catalogs will also code plants/seeds that are particularly appealing. High Country Gardens is a personal favorite of mine. http://www.highcountrygardens.com/articles/ You'll need a few trees and large shrubs for habitat, as well as the flowring perennials, vines and other plants many consider. Sylvia's book is laid out in that fashion. Linda Guy, MG rtrexler@apd.maricopa.gov wrote: > We are building a new home in south phoenix and want to have a hummingbird garden when we landscape. What plants, trees, shrubs, should we include? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Jan 17 19:29:53 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 12:29:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning Hibiscus References: <200201080436.g084agn29044@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C472631.12475E20@qwest.net> Since there is still a risk of frost-damage, I would hold off pruning until the weather begins to warm. Here's a prior response on the same topic. http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/arid_gardener/1168.html slangaj@juno.com wrote: > Thank you so much for your 2002 gardening calendar in the Sun Cities paper. Great, I'll post this one...Question, is the pruning of Hibiscus fall under the heading of "pruning shrubs" in January ? Also how far back do/can I prune them ?? > > Thank you again for the calendar.. > > Jim > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Jan 17 19:36:48 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 12:36:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Crown of Thorns References: <200201091944.g09Jipn21004@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C4727D0.C425271E@qwest.net> I think that there are several plants called crown of thorns. Can you tell us the botanical name? Linda Guy, MG dhackett4golf@juno.com wrote: > Crown of thorns, > > My plant is two years old, It now has began to yellow and drop leaves. Is this a normal reaction before blooming. I resently repotted the plant in a 12inch by 12inch pot. > Any help would be nice. > > Thank you for the time, > dhackett4golf@juno.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Jan 17 19:39:14 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 12:39:14 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Shrubs for Hot Spot References: <75B9E334-06A1-11D6-A737-000A27B35DB2@home.com> Message-ID: <3C472862.538262B1@qwest.net> Please tell us the size shrubs you would prefer. Leucophyllums come to mind but some may be too big for your requirements Linda Guy, MG Charles B Voll wrote: > I live on a small lot in Val Vista Lakes in Gilbert. I want to replace > three, too large bougainvillea growing against a light colored, two > story, stucco, south facing, house wall with, ideally, a low > maintenance, at times colorful, much smaller shrub or bush. This > environment appears to greatly restrict choices. What do you suggest? > > Thank you. > Charlie Voll > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Jan 17 19:40:49 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 12:40:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Salvaging Tomatoes References: <200201111713.g0BHDHn17710@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C4728C1.B370D0FC@qwest.net> You could try if you have the room for these and some additional plants, but with such a short season before the heat stops the tomatoes from setting fruit, I would be inclined to be sure I had at least a few new plants. Linda Guy, MG henryr@kaibab.com wrote: > I have tomatoe seedlings that were planted in Sept. and are about 18 inches tall. The frost got to them and all the leaves are brown. The main stem is staying green so far. Do I keep my hopes up that they will sprout new foliage in the spring time or just pull them out? The frost damage occurred around the middle of Dec. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Jan 17 19:44:31 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 12:44:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pink Trumpet Vine [Podranea ricasoliana] References: <200201112231.g0BMVvn29712@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C47299F.FB4DC77E@qwest.net> These are generally cold deciduous, so I wonder if one simply happened to be better protected are had more sun during the December cold snaps. Frost will cause leaves to drop. Heavy cold spells will kill the vine to the ground but regrowth usually always occurs when the weather warms. Winter is always a good time to thin out any tangly growth, too. Linda Guy, MG mwinternheimer@home.com wrote: > I planted 3 Pink Trumpet Vines in my Desert Hummingbird Garden. One looks very healthy and is still blooming. The other two have some new growth, no blooms and the leaves have started turning yellow, starting at the bottom of the plants. The area where they are planted has lightly filtered afternoon sun and is next to the bird bath. What could be causing two of the vines to turn yellow? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Jan 17 19:46:58 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 12:46:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Transplanting Desert Plants References: <200201120204.g0C24Tn00159@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C472A32.F794C39C@qwest.net> So much of the root ball needs to be taken in the transplant process than none of my efforts with my desert natives [of the duration in ground that you are describing] have been successful. If I'd had a few more sets of hands to help transport the size rootball I needed, I think I'd have had a chance, but if you're going to bother paying for day labor, you might as well start with new stock. Wish I could be more optimisic! Linda Guy, MG dchilds10@home.com wrote: > How do I transplant established desert shrubs? I have a red fairy duster and two sage varieties that have been in the ground about 9 years that I want to move. They are on a drip system and are too big for their location. Thanks for any help you can offer! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Jan 17 19:48:00 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 12:48:00 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: Getting the Lawn ready.] Message-ID: <3C472A70.3AE3F46F@qwest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------229A8C9F281F3C0300841245 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Any others with an answer for Susan? Thanks. --------------229A8C9F281F3C0300841245 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 4393 invoked by uid 0); 13 Jan 2002 17:54:17 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO mail4.uswest.net) (63.226.138.4) by mpls-mailin-06.inet.qwest.net with SMTP; 13 Jan 2002 17:54:17 -0000 Received: (qmail 47296 invoked by uid 0); 13 Jan 2002 17:54:17 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO hall.mail.mindspring.net) (207.69.200.60) by mail4.uswest.net with SMTP; 13 Jan 2002 17:54:17 -0000 Received: from user-38ldksa.dialup.mindspring.com ([209.86.211.138] helo=0019687347) by hall.mail.mindspring.net with smtp (Exim 3.33 #1) id 16Popj-0006UU-00 for lindaguy@qwest.net; Sun, 13 Jan 2002 12:54:16 -0500 Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 10:54:13 -0700 Message-ID: <001a01c19c5b$50bb6560$8ad356d1@0019687347> From: "roger vail" To: lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: Getting the Lawn ready. MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0017_01C19C20.A3518600" X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.50.4133.2400 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.50.4133.2400 X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0017_01C19C20.A3518600 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi Linda, I just bought Kentucky-31 Tall Fescue seed..Now my question is = their are still a few areas where the Bermuda will still come = back....Will the summer grass choke out the Fescue?...Also as I stated = before my yard is 75% shade now and will the fescue need to be reseeded = every year?.. = Thank You, = Susan ------=_NextPart_000_0017_01C19C20.A3518600 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi Linda,
      I just = bought=20 Kentucky-31 Tall Fescue seed..Now my question is their are still a few = areas=20 where the Bermuda will still come back....Will the summer grass choke = out the=20 Fescue?...Also as I stated before my yard is 75% shade now and will the = fescue=20 need to be reseeded every year?..
          &nbs= p;            = ;            =             &= nbsp;           &n= bsp;           &nb= sp;           &nbs= p;            = ;            =             &= nbsp;           &n= bsp; =20 Thank You,
          &nbs= p;            = ;            =             &= nbsp;           &n= bsp;           &nb= sp;           &nbs= p;            = ;            =             &= nbsp;           &n= bsp;  =20 Susan
------=_NextPart_000_0017_01C19C20.A3518600-- --------------229A8C9F281F3C0300841245-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Jan 17 19:58:15 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 12:58:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Echeveria ramilette References: <200201141704.g0EH42e08172@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C472CD7.14950AF0@qwest.net> My understanding about the watering needs of echeveria in general are that most want moderate water. I think most want to be protected from the hottest sun [summer pms] so planting under the filtered shade of a desert tree would probably be a good idea. The Sunset Western Garden Book says that they need extra attention in our zone to be able to grow outside, but your specific plant is not listed there. May I suggest you contact the plant hotline at the Desert Botanical Gardens, M-F, 10- 11:30 am 480/941-1225. They know succulents better than do many of us who participate in this particular list server. Linda Guy, MG srapp@pbplastics.com wrote: > >Location: phoenix, arizona > >at this time, my irigation system is down, and i have been hand watering > >my plants for about 9 months. everything is going well and nothing has > >died on me, but i need some advise on planting some cacti. > >i bought 24 echeveris ramilette which is orange bouquet version of a > >cacti. i would like to plant this very soon, but am not sure if i can do > >this without having a watering system with it. i thought since this plant > >only needs to be "drenched when dry" it wouldn't make a difference. what > >do you think??? > >also, since i am in arizona, and can't dig deep, i was going to build a > >planter box system up about 3 feet - what type of soil or fertilizer or > >compost should i plant this in??? > >thanks for your time - and your attention on this matter. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Jan 17 20:04:19 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 13:04:19 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning Palos References: <200201150926.g0F9Qte12385@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C472E43.EA530C77@qwest.net> June is the recommended time to prune palo verdes [Johnson's Pruning Planting & Care] but I have removed dead wood and small crossing branches earlier in the year before vigorous growth begins [he recommends the same]. Heavy pruning is not recommended and large cuts don't tend to heal well on some palos. Suckering is not an issue with palos. Linda Guy, MG Sundance2xyz@aol.com wrote: > To prevent suckers from growing on palo verde, when is the best time to prune. I have mostly minor pruning but some will require much more shaping.... > > Thanks much........ > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Jan 17 20:19:59 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 13:19:59 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Shrubs for Hot Spot References: Message-ID: <3C4731EE.7390650D@qwest.net> Ruellia peninsularis [baja ruellia], calliandra eriophylla [pink fairy duster] and justicia candicans [red justicia] meet the space requirements and have the added advantage of being native and hummingbird magnets. Of the leucophyllums, L. laevigatum [Chihuahuan sage], L. revolutum and L. zygophyllums are small enough. Linda Guy, MG Charles B Voll wrote: > I have would like a shrub about 3 to 4 feet high, or one that can be > maintained to that height. I have been toying with the idea, as you > suggest, of a leucophyllum of some kind, but what kind? > > Thank you. > > Charlie Voll > > On Thursday, January 17, 2002, at 12:39 PM, Linda Guy wrote: > > > Please tell us the size shrubs you would prefer. Leucophyllums come to > > mind but some may be too big for your requirements > > > > Linda Guy, MG > > > > Charles B Voll wrote: > > > >> I live on a small lot in Val Vista Lakes in Gilbert. I want to replace > >> three, too large bougainvillea growing against a light colored, two > >> story, stucco, south facing, house wall with, ideally, a low > >> maintenance, at times colorful, much smaller shrub or bush. This > >> environment appears to greatly restrict choices. What do you suggest? > >> > >> Thank you. > >> Charlie Voll > >> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> Arid_gardener mailing list > >> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Jan 17 20:27:44 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 13:27:44 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palms from seed References: <200201170507.g0H57he05809@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C4733BF.CBA2A4AB@qwest.net> Our palm pub [AZ 1021] has care requirements but not cultivation from seed. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Hopefully another server member has been of some help to you. If you don't receive another reply, you could call the Master Gardener desk 602/470-8086 x. 301 Linda Guy, MG benken1@mindspring.com wrote: > LOOKING FOR INFORMATION ON GROWING QUEEN PALMS FROM SEED(OR WHAT). IS THERE SOME MATERIALS AT YOUR EXTENSION CENTER? OR ONLINE? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From umiller@azdps.com Thu Jan 17 20:36:04 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 13:36:04 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Crown of Thorns In-Reply-To: <3C4727D0.C425271E@qwest.net> Message-ID: Is this one of those prickly upright plants with the little bright red flowers? If so, mine also did that and I think it's from overwatering. I started watering it more this winter, mainly because I had water handy this year and so I gave it a shot each time I was near the plant while watering the geraniums. It didn't turn yellow last winter or any other time, so I'm guessing that it's the water. Also only the parts of the plant that were in the center where the water would have been heaviest turned yellow. A little section near the edge of the pot is still green. The other crown of thorns that didn't get this "special attention" is doing fine. Could it be that you are overwatering it because you changed the pot? Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Linda Guy Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2002 12:37 PM To: dhackett4golf@juno.com Cc: Arid_gardener Subject: [Arid_gardener] Crown of Thorns I think that there are several plants called crown of thorns. Can you tell us the botanical name? Linda Guy, MG dhackett4golf@juno.com wrote: > Crown of thorns, > > My plant is two years old, It now has began to yellow and drop leaves. Is this a normal reaction before blooming. I resently repotted the plant in a 12inch by 12inch pot. > Any help would be nice. > > Thank you for the time, > dhackett4golf@juno.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Jan 17 20:49:45 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 13:49:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lilium Bulbs References: <200201171529.g0HFTge26225@Ag.arizona.edu> <3C46FB7D.2764ADBE@email.sps.mot.com> Message-ID: <3C4738E9.D4760DD2@qwest.net> Alan, I just checked an old extension pub on flower bulbs [it is no longer available to the public, I think] and lilium was not listed. I checked the new spring McClure and Zimmerman catalog and all liliums sold go to zone 8, not 9. However Brent and Becky's Bulbs, whose selection is quite a bit larger, sells a number of asiatic and oriental lilies, lilium species and lilium trumpets that are purported to grow in zone 9. http://www.mzbulb.com/ http://www.brentandbeckysbulbs.com/ Linda Guy, MG Alan Zelhart wrote: > I have a question. Do Lilies as in Lilium bulbs grow here in Metro-Phoenix? I don't recall ever seeing them at the > nurseries. If so, is there any specific cares they need. Afternoon shade, specific fertilizer, etc., > > ----- > Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 > > http://www.gizmoaz.com > Over 225 roses and over 140 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! > Check out the Garden Cams on Saturday and Sunday!! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Thu Jan 17 20:56:20 2002 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 13:56:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Lilium Bulbs References: <200201171529.g0HFTge26225@Ag.arizona.edu> <3C46FB7D.2764ADBE@email.sps.mot.com> <3C4738E9.D4760DD2@qwest.net> Message-ID: <3C473A74.A134CD55@email.sps.mot.com> Is Phoenix considered Zone 9 or 10? Sorry, I'm use to the sunset zones, and am not clear about what USDA zone we are in. Thanks, ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.gizmoaz.com Over 225 roses and over 140 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! Check out the Garden Cams on Saturday and Sunday!! Linda Guy wrote: > Alan, > > I just checked an old extension pub on flower bulbs [it is no longer available to the public, I think] and lilium was > not listed. I checked the new spring McClure and Zimmerman catalog and all liliums sold go to zone 8, not 9. However > Brent and Becky's Bulbs, whose selection is quite a bit larger, sells a number of asiatic and oriental lilies, lilium > species and lilium trumpets that are purported to grow in zone 9. > http://www.mzbulb.com/ > http://www.brentandbeckysbulbs.com/ > > Linda Guy, MG > > Alan Zelhart wrote: > > > I have a question. Do Lilies as in Lilium bulbs grow here in Metro-Phoenix? I don't recall ever seeing them at the > > nurseries. If so, is there any specific cares they need. Afternoon shade, specific fertilizer, etc., > > > > ----- > > Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 > > > > http://www.gizmoaz.com > > Over 225 roses and over 140 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! > > Check out the Garden Cams on Saturday and Sunday!! > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Thu Jan 17 21:41:06 2002 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 14:41:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Desert question References: <200201171526.g0HFQAe16479@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C4744F2.4055D7F5@qwest.net> I'm afraid I don't understand you question. Sorry. Could you rephrase it for me? I'll try to get you an answer as fast as I can. Thank you, Sue Bass Master Gardener patmcd2002@hotmail.com wrote: > How are the hot deserts being protected. And how does it work. I dont want to be rudebut if its not to much trouble could you send a response fast please. THANK YOU SO VERY MUCH > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Jan 17 23:28:50 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 18:28:50 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Phoenix USDA zone Message-ID: <7c.21613bcc.2978b832@aol.com> --part1_7c.21613bcc.2978b832_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Allan, Phoenix is in USDA zone 9. Rod --part1_7c.21613bcc.2978b832_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Allan,

Phoenix is in USDA zone 9.

Rod
--part1_7c.21613bcc.2978b832_boundary-- From djhillis@qwest.net Fri Jan 18 00:12:18 2002 From: djhillis@qwest.net (djhillis@qwest.net) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 17:12:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201180012.g0I0CIe14498@Ag.arizona.edu> I need to trim a branch from a 3 or 4 year old ash tree and wanted to know the best time to do it( the time of year, not like 3:30 in the afternoon...). Also, When is the best time to plant Queen palms. I would like to add a couple. Thank you. Dennis From waddell1615@msn.com Fri Jan 18 03:28:21 2002 From: waddell1615@msn.com (waddell1615@msn.com) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2002 20:28:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201180328.g0I3SLe21679@Ag.arizona.edu> I am trying to find shrubs/trees that can serve as a tall hedge. It needs to be at least 4ft at maturity, evergreen, fast growing and non-toxic to horses. Does anything like this exist? I live near the freeway and am trying to screen it from view. The freeway is also very loud. I thought a hedge would at least help with screening it from veiw. The hedge will be over 150ft long! Any suggestions? Thanks for your help. Go Wildcats! From patmcd2002@hotmail.com Fri Jan 18 12:05:26 2002 From: patmcd2002@hotmail.com (Patrick McDonough) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 13:05:26 +0100 Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: Iam im sorry you could not understand the qeustion. Thats ok though. Ill write it again. How is the deserts of the world being protected or for that matter any desert. Thankyou so much for reading my question. _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From jennaz31@aol.com Fri Jan 18 12:23:36 2002 From: jennaz31@aol.com (jennaz31@aol.com) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 05:23:36 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201181223.g0ICNae17384@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a tomato bush that is filled with fruit and with the warm weather we had last week some of it has begun to ripen, however---something is enjoying it before I can get to it. Everytime one turns red, before I can get it off the vine, something seems to start eating it. These are tomatoes that weren't showing any signs of splitting, so I cant figure it out. I have examined the plant for critters and I can't seem to find any. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks, Jenn From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri Jan 18 13:08:10 2002 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 06:08:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200201181223.g0ICNae17384@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <002801c1a021$f13f31a0$e651530c@j0r9501> Birds? ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 5:23 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I have a tomato bush that is filled with fruit and with the warm weather we had last week some of it has begun to ripen, however---something is enjoying it before I can get to it. Everytime one turns red, before I can get it off the vine, something seems to start eating it. These are tomatoes that weren't showing any signs of splitting, so I cant figure it out. I have examined the plant for critters and I can't seem to find any. Does anyone have any suggestions? > Thanks, Jenn > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From gardenguru" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_080C_01C19FED.FD773C80 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable It is the Dalhberg Daisy. Will be available when if warms up. As it = grows and most of the yellow flowers are spent. trim them back to about = 3 in high and it will sprout back out all summer. It does slow down in = the winter but gives color as long as it is warm. rabbits nor birds care = for it.=20 Hope this helps GG ------=_NextPart_000_080C_01C19FED.FD773C80 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
It is the Dalhberg Daisy. Will be available when = if warms=20 up. As it grows and most of the yellow flowers are spent. trim them back = to=20 about 3 in high and it will sprout back out all summer. It does slow = down in the=20 winter but gives color as long as it is warm. rabbits nor birds care for = it.=20
Hope this helps
GG
------=_NextPart_000_080C_01C19FED.FD773C80-- From gardenguru" Message-ID: <081701c1a029$342f4160$5ffacbd8@ibm22761658747> Yep - it is birds. They wait very patiently until they see the first sign of red ( they are attacted to red ) and they will drill a hole it them. You can cover them with bird netting or pick them just before they begin to turn and place them in a paper bag to ripen. Do not refrigerate. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 5:23 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I have a tomato bush that is filled with fruit and with the warm weather we had last week some of it has begun to ripen, however---something is enjoying it before I can get to it. Everytime one turns red, before I can get it off the vine, something seems to start eating it. These are tomatoes that weren't showing any signs of splitting, so I cant figure it out. I have examined the plant for critters and I can't seem to find any. Does anyone have any suggestions? > Thanks, Jenn > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From sjbass@qwest.net Fri Jan 18 14:17:58 2002 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 07:17:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Desert Preservation References: Message-ID: <3C482E96.7D44546A@qwest.net> Patrick: There are many organizations at work to preserve desert land. One of these is The Nature Conservancy. You can view information about their work at: http://nature.org/ The Nature Conservancy works around the world. In the Phoenix area, there are several groups, below are two just to name a few. The Desert Foothills Landtrust: http://www.dflt.org/ Phoenix Mountain Preserves http://www.phoenixmountains.org/ You can do an internet search by typing in the words "Desert Preservation" and you will find a list of the many organizations working toward this goal. Sue Bass Patrick McDonough wrote: > Iam im > sorry you could not understand the qeustion. Thats ok though. Ill write it > again. How is the deserts of the world being protected or for that matter > any desert. Thankyou so much for > reading my question. > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From gardenguru" Message-ID: <088e01c1a02d$807358a0$5ffacbd8@ibm22761658747> Petite Pink Oleanders would be my recommendation. It is fast growing, blooms while it is warm, loves the heat, indures the frost, it a low water use plant, does not mind our high alkaline soil and horses no other animal eats it since it is poisonous.Animals know that it is something not to eat. It grows to about 4 to 5 ft high and 4 ft wide. Texas sage will also work and it is not poisonous, but it does not bloom as often Hope this helps GG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2002 8:28 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I am trying to find shrubs/trees that can serve as a tall hedge. It needs to be at least 4ft at maturity, evergreen, fast growing and non-toxic to horses. Does anything like this exist? I live near the freeway and am trying to screen it from view. The freeway is also very loud. I thought a hedge would at least help with screening it from veiw. The hedge will be over 150ft long! Any suggestions? Thanks for your help. Go Wildcats! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From gardenguru" Message-ID: <089101c1a02d$820dcec0$5ffacbd8@ibm22761658747> Patrick. here is web site for the Offlice of Arid Land Studies. http://ag.arizona.edu/OALS/oals/oals.html It is part of the U of A and is dedicated to dealing with all aspects of deserts around the world. It have several different divisions and a well organized web site. Check it out GG ----- Original Message ----- From: "Patrick McDonough" To: Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 5:05 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) > Iam im > sorry you could not understand the qeustion. Thats ok though. Ill write it > again. How is the deserts of the world being protected or for that matter > any desert. Thankyou so much for > reading my question. > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From jkandell@twistedclicks.com Fri Jan 18 15:18:57 2002 From: jkandell@twistedclicks.com (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 08:18:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: something eating my tomatoes References: <200201181223.g0ICNae17384@Ag.arizona.edu> <002801c1a021$f13f31a0$e651530c@j0r9501> Message-ID: <004e01c1a035$bfd4f500$f9aa3604@oemcomputer> Jenn, I have the same problem right now... pretty sure it's birds. It's a fairly large hole, right? I solved the problem by wrapping some bird netting around the plant. Works like a charm. They got one but I'm getting the rest. ;-) They're not great, by the way, but better than the green tomatoes I ripened at home, and way better than what I can get in the stores right now. jk > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: > Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 5:23 AM > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > > > I have a tomato bush that is filled with fruit and with the warm > weather we had last week some of it has begun to ripen, > however---something is enjoying it before I can get to it. Everytime > one turns red, before I can get it off the vine, something seems to > start eating it. These are tomatoes that weren't showing any signs of > splitting, so I cant figure it out. I have examined the plant for > critters and I can't seem to find any. Does anyone have any > suggestions? > > Thanks, Jenn From wotipka@cox.net Fri Jan 18 15:53:53 2002 From: wotipka@cox.net (wotipka) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 08:53:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] New e-mail address Message-ID: <00a401c1a038$548e28e0$0300000a@Qwest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00A1_01C19FFD.A7B9D2C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Please change my e-mail address to wotipka@cox.net =20 =20 Old address was wotipka@qwest.net ------=_NextPart_000_00A1_01C19FFD.A7B9D2C0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Please change my e-mail address to   wotipka@cox.net  
 
Old address was wotipka@qwest.net
 
 
------=_NextPart_000_00A1_01C19FFD.A7B9D2C0-- From copper@bargainsail.com Fri Jan 18 17:54:43 2002 From: copper@bargainsail.com (Copper Bittner) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 10:54:43 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] 150 ft hedge In-Reply-To: <088e01c1a02d$807358a0$5ffacbd8@ibm22761658747> Message-ID: I must disagree with the statement that horses know that oleanders are poisonous. I lost a horse that way. And I know others who have as well. Don't have another recommendation, but keep those oleanders away from horses. Even fallen leaves will cause problems. Copper Bittner MG -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of gardenguru Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 7:18 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu; waddell1615@msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] 150 ft hedge Petite Pink Oleanders would be my recommendation. It is fast growing, blooms while it is warm, loves the heat, indures the frost, it a low water use plant, does not mind our high alkaline soil and horses no other animal eats it since it is poisonous.Animals know that it is something not to eat. It grows to about 4 to 5 ft high and 4 ft wide. Texas sage will also work and it is not poisonous, but it does not bloom as often Hope this helps GG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2002 8:28 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I am trying to find shrubs/trees that can serve as a tall hedge. It needs to be at least 4ft at maturity, evergreen, fast growing and non-toxic to horses. Does anything like this exist? I live near the freeway and am trying to screen it from view. The freeway is also very loud. I thought a hedge would at least help with screening it from veiw. The hedge will be over 150ft long! Any suggestions? Thanks for your help. Go Wildcats! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Silvirado@aol.com Fri Jan 18 18:27:33 2002 From: Silvirado@aol.com (Silvirado@aol.com) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 13:27:33 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Arid_gardener digest, Vol 1 #253 - 17 msgs Message-ID: <188.1feeb19.2979c315@aol.com> Sorry, I can't get my paste and copy function to work, this is in response to a recommendation of petite pink Oleanders for a person who owns horses. This plant is highly toxic to horses!!! A recent case at the Equine vet here in Gilbert involved the death of a horse that merely drank water from a tank that oleander leaves had fallen into. Do not use this shrub near horses. E-mail me if you want the name of the vet to verify, or check with your own vet. Suzanne Silvir From SheDav@webtv.net Fri Jan 18 18:39:10 2002 From: SheDav@webtv.net (bon bon) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 11:39:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] shrub or tree safe around horses In-Reply-To: arid_gardener-request@Ag.arizona.edu's message of Fri, 18 Jan 2002 10:56:39 -0700 (MST) Message-ID: <4252-3C486BCE-599@storefull-217.iap.bryant.webtv.net> What about creosote bush? They are prolific like weeds in my area, but grow nice, full and green if watered occasionally in summer. I think they would be a thrifty way to go for 150ft. of hedge. Or intersperse them amongst Palo Verde and Mesquite. I think the horses would like to eat the mesquite seed pods. Cows do anyway. --Sheri in Buckeye From hmack1927@aol.com Fri Jan 18 19:58:27 2002 From: hmack1927@aol.com (hmack1927@aol.com) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 12:58:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201181958.g0IJwRe28937@Ag.arizona.edu> I areceived a miniature evergreen as a gift. The paperwork says it may be transplanted outdoors. My questions are how large will it grow and will it really survive our summer heat? I have an area with afternoon shade that might work, if it doesn't grow to 10 feet!! Many thanks for your help. From blesingsexychick@question.com Fri Jan 18 21:43:06 2002 From: blesingsexychick@question.com (blesingsexychick@question.com) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 14:43:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201182143.g0ILh2e19579@Ag.arizona.edu> could u give me the hopothemisis please my science project must do by tuesday 22 ,2002 thank you very much From dgrenier@chipworks.com Fri Jan 18 22:10:15 2002 From: dgrenier@chipworks.com (dgrenier@chipworks.com) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 15:10:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201182210.g0IMAFe23187@Ag.arizona.edu> I am having trouble keeping my dogs out of my planters. They dig up and eat the vegetation. What can I do? I do not want to use chemicals, only organic remedies. Best Regards, Darin From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Jan 18 22:57:33 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 17:57:33 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ash Tree, Pruning Message-ID: --part1_b9.1a336e8b.297a025d_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dennis, Winter is the best time to prune your Ash tree and spring is the best time to plant queen palms. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_b9.1a336e8b.297a025d_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dennis,

Winter is the best time to prune your Ash tree and spring is the best time to plant queen palms.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener  
--part1_b9.1a336e8b.297a025d_boundary-- From racbvoll@home.com Sat Jan 19 00:11:15 2002 From: racbvoll@home.com (Charles B Voll) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 17:11:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Desert Preservation Message-ID: <0DFDEF06-0C71-11D6-8CCF-000A27B35DB2@home.com> Federal agencies involved in desert preservation are the US Department of the Interior, National Park Service and the Bureau of Land Management, and the US Department of Agriculture, Forest Service. To a more limited extent the Bureau of Indian Affairs and several Indian tribes, and, believe it or not, sometimes the Department of Defense. Charlie Voll From jkandell@twistedclicks.com Sat Jan 19 04:29:13 2002 From: jkandell@twistedclicks.com (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2002 21:29:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] desert protection Message-ID: <007c01c1a0a3$6fa9d8c0$79b43604@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0022_01C1A067.2CD1B0E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Check out Sonoran Desert Protection Plan,, what we're doing inTucson AZ. = Bruce Babbit, former head of depart of interior said it was the most = significant environmental attmept in the countrty.. http://www.co.pima.az.us/cmo/sdcp/ ------=_NextPart_000_0022_01C1A067.2CD1B0E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Check out Sonoran Desert Protection = Plan,, what=20 we're doing inTucson AZ. Bruce Babbit, former head of depart of interior = said it=20 was the most significant environmental attmept in the = countrty..
 
http://www.co.pima.az.us/cmo/= sdcp/
------=_NextPart_000_0022_01C1A067.2CD1B0E0-- From hmack1927@aol.com Sat Jan 19 07:56:12 2002 From: hmack1927@aol.com (hmack1927@aol.com) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 00:56:12 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201190756.g0J7uCe22749@Ag.arizona.edu> Where can I find info about growing miniature evergreen trees in desert Arizona? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Jan 19 16:00:57 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 16:00:57 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] evergreen trees, miniature Message-ID: Could you give us more information about the information you are seeking? Not sure if you are talking about conifers ("Christmas" trees) or trees that stay green year round (citrus, oleander). Of the conifers, small plants might be things such as dwarf or prostrate junipers. What is the maximum size you are thinking about? And would the trees be grown indoors or out? Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: hmack1927@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 00:56:12 -0700 (MST) > >Where can I find info about growing miniature evergreen trees in desert >Arizona? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From alague628@aol.com Sat Jan 19 22:56:07 2002 From: alague628@aol.com (alague628@aol.com) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 15:56:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201192256.g0JMu7e19472@Ag.arizona.edu> I am looking for someone in Prescott or nearby who could help me with my rose garden questions. I read in the newspapers that in Phoenix it's recommended to plant roses in January. Does that hold true for Prescott also? I would also like to know which roses do best in Prescott? Is there a "Master Gardener" in Prescott that I could communicate with? And, if so, how could I make contact with them? Thank you very much for your assistance. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Jan 19 23:14:57 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2002 18:14:57 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rose Planting Time in Prescott Az Message-ID: <185.2569ce4.297b57f1@aol.com> --part1_185.2569ce4.297b57f1_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It is too early to plant roses in Prescott. For more accurate info call the Yavapai Cooperative Extension, it will be listed under county government in your phone book. Another source of info is Bob or Nancy Walters, members of the Prescott Rose Society at rwalters@northlink.com Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian --part1_185.2569ce4.297b57f1_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It is too early to plant roses in Prescott. For more accurate info call the Yavapai Cooperative Extension, it will be listed under county government in your phone book. Another source of info is Bob or Nancy Walters, members of the Prescott Rose Society at  rwalters@northlink.com

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian
--part1_185.2569ce4.297b57f1_boundary-- From regallen@mail.utexas.edu Sun Jan 20 17:44:26 2002 From: regallen@mail.utexas.edu (regallen@mail.utexas.edu) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 11:44:26 -0600 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Need source of Texas Mountain Laurel Seeds Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20020120104855.01a86058@mail.utexas.edu> I would like to find a source, (commercial would be fine), for fairly large quantities of Texas Mountain Laurel seeds. My wife and myself own property on which we intend to build a home. Our driveway will be nearly a quarter of a mile long and winding. As part of my landscape plan, I intend to line both sides of the drive and border the entrance to the property with Texas Mountain Laurel. It will form a dividing line between that land which I must disturb and a pristine Texas hill country environment. I don't really have an exact count of the number of these shrubs I will ultimately need, but, it will run into the hundreds. Given the cost of potted nursery shrubs, I have opted to propagate them myself. I have managed to gather about one hundred of the seeds and have had about a twenty-five percent germination success. Initially, I did not scarify the seeds, but, have since learned the error of my ways. If this rate of germination is typical, I will obviously need around four times the number of seeds. Another question that I have is; where can I acquire a biological pest control called Bacillus Thuringiensis? Mountain laurel is plagued by webworms and this seems to be the recommended treatment. Thanks, Jim Allen Austin Texas regallen@mail.utexas.edu From darrelloneal@msn.com Sun Jan 20 17:55:48 2002 From: darrelloneal@msn.com (darrelloneal@msn.com) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 10:55:48 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201201755.g0KHtme23646@Ag.arizona.edu> I recently moved into the Glendale area and am trying to learn the vegetable gardening tecniques. My question is this : is it too hot here to cover the garden soil with the black plastic sheet mulch, that I used in Calif. thank you From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Jan 20 19:03:31 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 19:03:31 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Need source of Texas Mountain Laurel Seeds Message-ID: Try the Southwest Tree Seedling Program. They sell southwestern plants as bareroot seedlings in 50-plant lots for $35. Don't know if they have Texas Mtn Laurel but may be able to give you some leads. Their website is: greenwoodnursery.com Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: regallen@mail.utexas.edu >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Need source of Texas Mountain Laurel Seeds >Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 11:44:26 -0600 > >I would like to find a source, (commercial would be fine), for fairly large >quantities of Texas Mountain Laurel seeds. > >My wife and myself own property on which we intend to build a home. Our >driveway will be nearly a quarter of a >mile long and winding. As part of my landscape plan, I intend to line >both sides of the drive and border the entrance to the >property with Texas Mountain Laurel. It will form a dividing line between >that land which I must disturb and a pristine >Texas hill country environment. I don't really have an exact count of the >number of these shrubs I will ultimately need, >but, it will run into the hundreds. Given the cost of potted nursery >shrubs, I have opted to propagate them myself. >I have managed to gather about one hundred of the seeds and have had about >a twenty-five percent germination success. >Initially, I did not scarify the seeds, but, have since learned the error >of my ways. If this rate of germination is typical, >I will obviously need around four times the number of seeds. Another >question that I have is; where can I acquire >a biological pest control called Bacillus Thuringiensis? Mountain laurel >is plagued by webworms and this seems >to be the recommended treatment. > >Thanks, Jim Allen >Austin Texas >regallen@mail.utexas.edu >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From crowelln@aol.com Sun Jan 20 19:07:57 2002 From: crowelln@aol.com (crowelln@aol.com) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 12:07:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201201907.g0KJ7ve12786@Ag.arizona.edu> Every year I plant roses and every year they die in spite of adequate water and nutrients. I suspect black spot or some other disease. I also have had tomato plants develop curled and dying leaves, usually from the bottom up. Now I want to plant more. Question: Is there anything I can treat the soil with to prevent this from happening to my roses and tomatoes? If not, must I spray, and with what? From gizmoaz@cox.net Sun Jan 20 21:34:13 2002 From: gizmoaz@cox.net (GizmoAZ) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 14:34:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200201201907.g0KJ7ve12786@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C4B37D5.43ADD658@cox.net> Hi, Can you tell me what you consider adequate water? Also, what part of Arizona are you in. Unless we have a lot of rain, which is seldom, I have never seen blackspot on my roses, so I do not think that is the problem. If I might recommend something for you. I would encourage you to go to MCC one of these beautiful Saturdays. They are giving pruning demonstrations down there every Saturday, here is the info: Mesa Community College Pruning: All Saturdays in January, through February 23rd, 9am to noon. Pruning and planting demonstrations and hands on help with pruning how-to's. Lots of volunteers needed and all are welcome! Make new friends and help our community too. They will also be handing out brochures on rose care, and what you should be doing for every month of the year. If your not located in the east valley, check with your local rose society, I believe that most all of them are hosting these type of events. It's really hard to say what happened to your roses and why they died without seeing them. Our biggest problem in the hot deserts is spider mites, and if they go untended they can make it very difficult on your roses. -- ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.gizmoaz.com Over 200 Roses and 125 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! Check out the Garden Cams on Saturday and Sunday! ----- Documentation - the worst part of programming crowelln@aol.com wrote: > Every year I plant roses and every year they die in spite of adequate water and nutrients. I suspect black spot or some other disease. > I also have had tomato plants develop curled and dying leaves, usually from the bottom up. Now I want to plant more. > Question: Is there anything I can treat the soil with to prevent this from happening to my roses and tomatoes? If not, must I spray, and with what? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Sun Jan 20 21:50:41 2002 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 14:50:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roses dying References: <200201201907.g0KJ7ve12786@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C4B3BB1.BB12391@qwest.net> I have a question about the death of your roses. What do they look like when they die? I'm asking because I have lost all of my roses this past summer and no one has been able to come up with a name for what is happening to them. What I have been seeing on mine is that the stems become blackened, as if they have been burned and the leaves dry up and fall off. All of my roses were in pots, by the way and during the heat of the summer, the pots were moved under the shade of an Acacia to protect them. That blackened stem seems to throw everyone. I'm just trying to find out if others have encountered this too. Alan, if you are reading this, I ran this problem by Mike Jepsen and the gentleman who spoke at our last Rose Society meeting and neither knew what is causing this. Mike said he lost a rose with these symptoms also. Its a mystery! Sue Bass Master Gardener crowelln@aol.com wrote: > Every year I plant roses and every year they die in spite of adequate water and nutrients. I suspect black spot or some other disease. > I also have had tomato plants develop curled and dying leaves, usually from the bottom up. Now I want to plant more. > Question: Is there anything I can treat the soil with to prevent this from happening to my roses and tomatoes? If not, must I spray, and with what? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From dkrob6@earthlink.net Sun Jan 20 21:52:55 2002 From: dkrob6@earthlink.net (dkrob6@earthlink.net) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 14:52:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201202152.g0KLqte11828@Ag.arizona.edu> HELP! Our "Arizona" Queen Palm's fronds - in the last month - are turning yellow, they seem to be droopier than usual and the new-shoot growth is droopy, and the newest-shoot growth looks "odd" (dry?). Here's the history since birth - planted 9/28/00, - fertilized with Vigoro 10-4-10 Citrus & Avocado fertilizer (I checked with the nursery re this vs a 10-5-10 and was told it was ok)on 2/19/01, 5/04/01, & 10/7/01. It's been on an automatic watering system that provides 15 mins. in cool weather and 45 mins. in summer...I turned the water off 3 days ago 'cause the ground is so wet. What's wrong and what can I do???? (We'd hate to lose him...we named him "Lt.Fuzz" after the Beetle Bailey comics 'cause that's what his fronds looked like in the beginning.) Tel. (480) 922-1792 if it's quicker or easier...thanks in advance. Jeannie From kathy_cheatham@hotmail.com Sun Jan 20 23:32:29 2002 From: kathy_cheatham@hotmail.com (kathy_cheatham@hotmail.com) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 16:32:29 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201202332.g0KNWTe10545@Ag.arizona.edu> When do you spray olive trees in the valley? Who would you recommend doing the spraying as we have several acres we are working with? We have an area that gets no sun and one that gets very little during the day. We do want grass in those areas and have heard of a couple that go no sun. What are your suggestions, the water requirements, best places to buy them, and fertilizer requirements? Thank you very much. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Jan 21 00:11:53 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 19:11:53 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rose canker Message-ID: <135.8044c6e.297cb6c9@aol.com> --part1_135.8044c6e.297cb6c9_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have had a number of roses die from the same thing as you describe , canes that start with a small black spot with the black moving down the cane and eventually killing the cane as well as the bush. The Consulting Rosarian Manual calls this canker fungus. The fungus gains entry through wounds caused by crossed canes, pruning, cutting flowers or any injury caused by gardening tools. The fungus can be spread by splashing water. Control consists of cultural practices and fungicidal sprays, any fungicide that controls blackspot such as Maneb and Daconil will work. I have started sterilizing my pruners after pruning each rose with rubbing alcohol. Since I do not grow tomatoes I'll leave that part of your question to someone else. If you do not hear from someone post the question about tomatoes again. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian --part1_135.8044c6e.297cb6c9_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have had a number of roses die from the same thing as you describe , canes that start with a small black spot with the black moving down the cane and eventually killing the cane as well as the bush.

The Consulting Rosarian Manual calls this canker fungus. The fungus gains entry through wounds caused by crossed canes, pruning, cutting flowers or any injury caused by gardening tools. The fungus can be spread by splashing water.

Control consists of cultural practices and fungicidal sprays, any fungicide that controls blackspot such as Maneb and Daconil will work. I have started sterilizing my pruners after pruning each rose with rubbing alcohol.

Since I do not grow tomatoes I'll leave that part of your question to someone else. If you do not hear from someone post the question about tomatoes again.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian
--part1_135.8044c6e.297cb6c9_boundary-- From contractor@uswest.net Mon Jan 21 00:39:50 2002 From: contractor@uswest.net (contractor@uswest.net) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 17:39:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201210039.g0L0doe13290@Ag.arizona.edu> OK, this thing is approaching the realm of a mythical quest and getting completely out of hand. Jamie Oliver is a British chef and author of two cookbooks. He hosts a TV show "The Naked Chef" (referring to his unadorned food!). He makes mention of 'mustard cress'. Evidently, every British school kid has grown it in class, according to an English friend. She also says not a very elegant item, almost a weed. But he has a recipe (involves boiled potatoes, avocado, olive oil, lemon juice, S&P, and, of course- mustard cress). I've asked every produce manager in town. No luck. I'm now asking the list. Thanks, (and check out his show, I was an executive chef and haven't been this impressed by anyone since Jaques Pepin), David Bowen From millero@worldnet.att.net Mon Jan 21 01:37:04 2002 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 18:37:04 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Black Plastic Mulch References: <200201201755.g0KHtme23646@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <003a01c1a21c$f6a24c20$0853530c@j0r9501> Black plastic is okay in the winter - helps warm the soil. But after the soil warms - about late March, it should be removed. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- > I recently moved into the Glendale area and am trying to learn the vegetable gardening tecniques. My question is this : is it too hot here to cover the garden soil with the black plastic sheet mulch, that I used in Calif. thank you > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From millero@worldnet.att.net Mon Jan 21 01:42:55 2002 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 18:42:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Mustard Cess References: <200201210039.g0L0doe13290@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <003b01c1a21c$f7303440$0853530c@j0r9501> A www.google.com search using keywords "Mustard Cress' brings up quite a few sites that should give you the answer. e.g. http://www.woolworths.com.au/recipes/dispingredientdetails.asp?ingredien tid=162 Olin ----- Original Message ----- > OK, this thing is approaching the realm of a mythical quest and getting completely out of hand. > Jamie Oliver is a British chef and author of two cookbooks. He hosts a TV show "The Naked Chef" (referring to his unadorned food!). He makes mention of 'mustard cress'. Evidently, every British school kid has grown it in class, according to an English friend. She also says not a very elegant item, almost a weed. > But he has a recipe (involves boiled potatoes, avocado, olive oil, lemon juice, S&P, and, of course- mustard cress). > I've asked every produce manager in town. > No luck. I'm now asking the list. > Thanks, (and check out his show, I was an executive chef and haven't been this impressed by anyone since Jaques Pepin), From sjbass@qwest.net Mon Jan 21 02:23:55 2002 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 19:23:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mustard Cress References: <200201210039.g0L0doe13290@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C4B7BBB.C013C791@qwest.net> David: I found some sites that may help you. The first thing I found was that a weed called "Bitter Cress" is a member of the mustard family. Could this be it? If you go to the following site from Scotland, there is mention of cooking with it: http://www.heartlander.scotland.net/news/..%5Cnews%5CMarch2k_story_08.htm Here is another link to the National Food Safety Database which mentions it: http://foodsafety.ifas.ufl.edu/nc/nc1091.htm The genus Cardamine came up. Maybe this will get you in the right direction. Sue Bass Master Gardener contractor@uswest.net wrote: > OK, this thing is approaching the realm of a mythical quest and getting completely out of hand. > Jamie Oliver is a British chef and author of two cookbooks. He hosts a TV show "The Naked Chef" (referring to his unadorned food!). He makes mention of 'mustard cress'. Evidently, every British school kid has grown it in class, according to an English friend. She also says not a very elegant item, almost a weed. > But he has a recipe (involves boiled potatoes, avocado, olive oil, lemon juice, S&P, and, of course- mustard cress). > I've asked every produce manager in town. > No luck. I'm now asking the list. > Thanks, (and check out his show, I was an executive chef and haven't been this impressed by anyone since Jaques Pepin), > > David Bowen > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From mmcin52400@aol.com Mon Jan 21 16:39:05 2002 From: mmcin52400@aol.com (mmcin52400@aol.com) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 09:39:05 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201211639.g0LGd5e06701@Ag.arizona.edu> My roses had a difficult summer--They are on a south wall by a garage. Right now, they are blooming quite well. What is the proper care for now? Do you prune, how severly, and when or temperature a factor? I do want to maintain them, as my husband, who died in June, planted them bare root, a few years ago. I also have a climber that kind of scraggly, but blooming. When to fertilize? Thank you. Mary McIntire From mmcin52400@aol.com Mon Jan 21 16:39:05 2002 From: mmcin52400@aol.com (mmcin52400@aol.com) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 09:39:05 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201211639.g0LGd5e06705@Ag.arizona.edu> My roses had a difficult summer--They are on a south wall by a garage. Right now, they are blooming quite well. What is the proper care for now? Do you prune, how severly, and when or temperature a factor? I do want to maintain them, as my husband, who died in June, planted them bare root, a few years ago. I also have a climber that kind of scraggly, but blooming. When to fertilize? Thank you. Mary McIntire From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Jan 21 19:11:03 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 14:11:03 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rose care Message-ID: <50.53e476d.297dc1c7@aol.com> --part1_50.53e476d.297dc1c7_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Mary, If you live in the low desert ( Phoenix area ) January is the time to both prune and fertilize your roses. A general rule for pruning back hybrid teas and floribundas is to cut them back approximately 1/2. If you need advice on how to prune your roses, all of the rose societies in the area ( there are 5 ) are holding pruning demonstations on Saturday mornings, check your newspaper for time and place. If you live in the East Valley the Mesa East Valley Rose Society will be doing pruning demonstrations at the Mesa Community College Rose Garden ( 4000 roses ) each Saturday morning through mid February. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian --part1_50.53e476d.297dc1c7_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Mary,

If you live in the low desert ( Phoenix area ) January is the time to both prune and fertilize your roses. A general rule for pruning back hybrid teas and floribundas is to cut them back approximately 1/2. If you need advice on how to prune your roses, all of the rose societies in the area ( there are 5 ) are holding pruning demonstations on Saturday mornings, check your newspaper for time and place. If you live in the East Valley the Mesa East Valley Rose Society will be doing pruning demonstrations  at the Mesa Community College Rose Garden ( 4000 roses ) each Saturday morning through mid February.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian
--part1_50.53e476d.297dc1c7_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Jan 21 22:03:47 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 17:03:47 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palm, overwatering Message-ID: <128.b2f1721.297dea43@aol.com> --part1_128.b2f1721.297dea43_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jeanne, You didn't say how often you have been watering your queen palm, but if the ground is wet you are applying too much water. This time of year you should not be watering the queen palm more often than once every 3 to 4 weeks. The 10-4-10 fertilizer you are using is ok, however the next time that you buy fertilizer I suggest that you buy a palm tree fertilizer which has the micro nutrients that palms require such as manganese, magnesium, iron and others. Check out this site for information about proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_128.b2f1721.297dea43_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jeanne,

You didn't say how often you have been watering your queen palm, but if the ground is wet you are applying too much water. This time of year you should not be watering the queen palm more often than once every 3 to 4 weeks.
The 10-4-10 fertilizer you are using is ok, however the next time that you buy fertilizer I suggest that you buy a palm tree fertilizer which has the micro nutrients that palms require such as manganese, magnesium, iron and others.
Check out this site for information about proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_128.b2f1721.297dea43_boundary-- From Ann Boland" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0032_01C1A2A5.53D5AB20 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable What can we plant under mature mesquite and palo verde trees in Tucson? = We currently are successful with rosemary, but shrubs get leggy. I'm = looking for suggestions for shrubs, flowers and cacti. Thanks Ann Boland ann@annboland.com Integrated Learning Solutions, Inc. 2720 W. Calle Cuero de Vaca Tucson, AZ 85745 v - 520-624-9575 f - 520.624.5436 mobile - 520-241-4838 ------=_NextPart_000_0032_01C1A2A5.53D5AB20 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
What can we plant under = mature mesquite=20 and palo verde trees in Tucson?  We currently are successful with = rosemary,=20 but shrubs get leggy.  I'm looking for suggestions for shrubs, = flowers and=20 cacti.  Thanks
 
 
Ann Boland
ann@annboland.com
Integrated = Learning=20 Solutions, Inc.
2720 W. Calle Cuero de Vaca
Tucson, AZ 85745
v = -=20 520-624-9575
f - 520.624.5436
mobile -=20 520-241-4838
------=_NextPart_000_0032_01C1A2A5.53D5AB20-- From Morford@aol.com Tue Jan 22 02:53:40 2002 From: Morford@aol.com (Morford@aol.com) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 19:53:40 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201220253.g0M2ree04157@Ag.arizona.edu> I have lemon, orange and grapefruit trees and wonder how to judge when to start harvesting? Do you wait with a squeeze test to determine softness or do sampling to determine sweetness? From mobrien288@aol.com Tue Jan 22 05:06:30 2002 From: mobrien288@aol.com (mobrien288@aol.com) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 22:06:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201220506.g0M56Ue06443@Ag.arizona.edu> We have recently purchased a 30 year old house that has a large olive tree in the front yard--probably close to 30 years old itself. It has dead growth on the same branches as live growth. Can it be remedied/saved? Thanks for your help. From bigeye62@earthlink.net Tue Jan 22 15:37:25 2002 From: bigeye62@earthlink.net (bigeye62@earthlink.net) Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 08:37:25 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201221537.g0MFbPK16789@Ag.arizona.edu> Why are the oranges on the trees small this year compared to last year? When should i fertilize citrus trees? Spring,Fall and with what type of fertilizer? Thanks. KG From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Jan 22 16:50:18 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 11:50:18 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus size Message-ID: <33.2128baf2.297ef24a@aol.com> --part1_33.2128baf2.297ef24a_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Citrus seem to alternate year to year with with quantity of fruit as well as size. Small size is more apt to be related to inadequate irrigation and fertilization. This last summer was one of the hottest on record and if you didn't apply additional water the fruit size could have suffered. Citrus should be fertilized three to four times a year beginning in February and ending in late summer with a citrus fertilizer or amonium sulfate. Grapefruit require one pound of actual nitrogen per year, other citrus need 1 1/2 to 2 pounds of actual nitrogen per year. Amonium sulfate contains 21% nitrogen which means approximately 5 pounds of amonium sulfate per year should be applied. Check out this website for info on watering citrus: www.ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151 Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_33.2128baf2.297ef24a_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Citrus seem to alternate year to year with with quantity of fruit as well as size. Small size is more apt to be related to inadequate irrigation and fertilization. This last summer was one of the hottest on record and if you didn't apply additional water the fruit size could have suffered.

Citrus should be fertilized three to four times a year beginning in February and ending in late summer with a citrus fertilizer or amonium sulfate. Grapefruit require one pound of actual nitrogen per year, other citrus need 1 1/2 to 2 pounds of actual nitrogen per year. Amonium sulfate contains 21% nitrogen which means approximately 5 pounds of amonium sulfate per year should be applied.

Check out this website for info on watering citrus: www.ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_33.2128baf2.297ef24a_boundary-- From cgreen@yahoo.com Tue Jan 22 17:16:47 2002 From: cgreen@yahoo.com (cgreen@yahoo.com) Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 10:16:47 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201221716.g0MHGlK12549@Ag.arizona.edu> I have one honeysuckle, two cape honeysuckles and two nadinas next to an existing wood fence. These plants are over 25 years old and doing very well. My neighbour is putting up a block wall and the wooden fence will be removed. These plants sit vey close to the fence. I am concerned mainly about what will occur when the trenching is done and the footing poured. How best should I handle this? I will need to prune all the plants severly to allow access to the block layers. Would it be better to remove the plants and start over or to try to keep them? This will be done in about two weeks. I really hate to lose them. Thank you, Cherie Green From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Jan 22 17:18:03 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 12:18:03 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Olive Tree Dying Message-ID: <16b.78c7f16.297ef8cb@aol.com> --part1_16b.78c7f16.297ef8cb_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit One of the best things you can do for your olive tree is to insure that it gets adequate water. If you feel the tree is quite valuable and you do not want to lose it I would suggest that you have a Certified Arborist look at it and advise you as to a course of action. Check out this website for info on proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_16b.78c7f16.297ef8cb_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit One of the best things you can do for your olive tree is to insure that it gets adequate water. If you feel the tree is quite valuable and you do not want to lose it I would suggest that you have a Certified Arborist  look at it and advise you as to a course of action.

Check out this website for info on proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
--part1_16b.78c7f16.297ef8cb_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Jan 22 17:36:41 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 12:36:41 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Trenching next to established shrubs Message-ID: <4a.5501d30.297efd29@aol.com> --part1_4a.5501d30.297efd29_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Cherie, Since your shrubs are well established and the time of year is perfect I would expect them to come through ok, in fact they might become more vigorous. A few years ago SRP had to dig a sizeable hole adjoining a cape honeysuckle in my yard and now the plant is more vigorous than ever. About two months ago I cut another cape honey suckle to the ground and it has already grown back over a foot. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_4a.5501d30.297efd29_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Cherie,

Since your shrubs are well established and the time of year is perfect I would expect them to come through ok, in fact they might become more vigorous. A few years ago SRP had to dig a sizeable hole adjoining a cape honeysuckle in my yard and now the plant is more vigorous than ever. About two months ago I cut another cape honey suckle to the ground and it has already grown back over a foot.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener  
--part1_4a.5501d30.297efd29_boundary-- From SheDav@webtv.net Tue Jan 22 18:26:53 2002 From: SheDav@webtv.net (bon bon) Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 11:26:53 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: mustard cress In-Reply-To: arid_gardener-request@Ag.arizona.edu's message of Tue, 22 Jan 2002 10:20:36 -0700 (MST) Message-ID: <21928-3C4DAEED-3746@storefull-218.iap.bryant.webtv.net> I would say that "mustard cress" is the British rendition of "mustard greens". They are usually found in the produce section near the kale and spinach. From kerm59@home.com Sun Jan 20 22:36:33 2002 From: kerm59@home.com (kerm59@home.com) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2002 16:36:33 -0600 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Drooping cyclamen Message-ID: <000701c1a392$1d298ea0$5e8e0541@phnx1.az.home.com> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C1A1D0.9ECD2AC0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I just planted cyclamen in a shaded area on a north wall that tends to = stay cool and damp, at least in the winter. They did well for a week or = so, but now several of them are starting to droop. We have had some = cold mornings recently. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C1A1D0.9ECD2AC0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I just planted cyclamen in a = shaded area=20 on a north wall that tends to stay cool and damp, at least in the = winter. =20 They did well for a week or so, but now several of them are starting to=20 droop.  We have had some cold mornings recently.  Any = suggestions=20 would be appreciated.  Thanks
------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C1A1D0.9ECD2AC0-- From slangaj@juno.com Tue Jan 22 23:06:30 2002 From: slangaj@juno.com (slangaj@juno.com) Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 16:06:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201222306.g0MN6UK07595@Ag.arizona.edu> Question: When can I prune / cut back both my orange and lemon trees ? Is it OK to prune / cut back during the course of the year ?? Thank you again for your help.. Jim Slanga From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Jan 22 23:52:41 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 16:52:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Miniature Evergreen References: <200201190756.g0J7uCe22749@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C4DFB49.64FB0881@qwest.net> Further to Linda Drew's reply, did you happen to get a rosemary sheared into the shape of a Christmas tree? I saw alot of those out at Christmas time and if this is what you have, it grows easily in Phoenix as long as its feet don't get and stay wet. Linda Guy, MG hmack1927@aol.com wrote: > Where can I find info about growing miniature evergreen trees in desert Arizona? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From newitts@home.com Tue Jan 22 23:55:11 2002 From: newitts@home.com (newitts@home.com) Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 16:55:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201222355.g0MNtBK16989@Ag.arizona.edu> Is there a self pollinating apple tree that grows relatively well in the greater Phoenix area, zone 1 I believe, which also produces apples good enough for cooking pies, etc.? From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Jan 23 00:10:13 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 17:10:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Apple Trees References: <200201222355.g0MNtBK16989@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C4DFF65.8EC13646@qwest.net> Check out the fruit tree chapter of the Master Gardener manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/fruit/index.html You can also order our publication MC 90 at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Linda Guy, MG newitts@home.com wrote: > Is there a self pollinating apple tree that grows relatively well in the greater Phoenix area, zone 1 I believe, which also produces apples good enough for cooking pies, etc.? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Wed Jan 23 00:53:54 2002 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 17:53:54 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning Citrus References: <200201222306.g0MN6UK07595@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C4E09A2.7839E1CC@qwest.net> The following link will take you to a response in our archives to a similar question: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2001-November/009341.html Sue Bass slangaj@juno.com wrote: > Question: When can I prune / cut back both my orange and lemon trees ? Is it OK to prune / cut back during the course of the year ?? > > Thank you again for your help.. > > Jim Slanga > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From umiller@azdps.com Wed Jan 23 04:28:17 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 21:28:17 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Shade loving plants In-Reply-To: <003501c1a2e0$007f47c0$23880044@tc.ph.cox.net> Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C1A38B.B4C0CB40 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Ann - Right now I have some stock and petunias in a circle around the base of my large mesquite tree. They seem to get enough morning sun early to keep them happy and after the little leaflets fall off, they’ll get even more sun since the tree will be bare for a while. Of course, these flowers will die in the summer. A couple of years ago I planted vinca minor – the leafy trailing kind (also called periwinkle) that has little blue/purple flowers, not the vinca with the multicolored flowers. It grew and grew and grew -------. It looked very nice because it was green all year long and made kind of a green mound around the tree, but it got out of hand. Maybe I didn’t trim it enough. I finally pulled it out. So this is a good choice if you’re willing to do regular trimming. Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Ann Boland Sent: Monday, January 21, 2002 5:59 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Shade loving plants What can we plant under mature mesquite and palo verde trees in Tucson? We currently are successful with rosemary, but shrubs get leggy. I'm looking for suggestions for shrubs, flowers and cacti. Thanks Ann Boland ann@annboland.com Integrated Learning Solutions, Inc. 2720 W. Calle Cuero de Vaca Tucson, AZ 85745 v - 520-624-9575 f - 520.624.5436 mobile - 520-241-4838 ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C1A38B.B4C0CB40 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

An= n -

 

Ri= ght now I have some stock and petunias in a circle around the base of my large = mesquite tree.=A0 They seem to get = enough morning sun early to keep them happy and after the little leaflets fall off, = they=92ll get even more sun since the tree will be bare for a while.=A0 Of course, these flowers will die = in the summer.

 

A = couple of years ago I planted vinca minor =96 the leafy trailing kind (also = called periwinkle) that has little blue/purple flowers, not the vinca with the multicolored flowers.=A0 It = grew and grew and grew -------.=A0 It looked = very nice because it was green all year long and made kind of a green mound around = the tree, but it got out of hand.=A0 = Maybe I didn=92t trim it enough.=A0=A0 = I finally pulled it out.=A0 So this is a = good choice if you=92re willing to do regular = trimming.

 

Ursula Miller

Not = a Master Gardener

<= span class=3DEmailStyle18> 

-----Original Message-----
From: = arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Ann Boland
Sent: Monday, January 21, = 2002 5:59 PM
To: = arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Shade loving plants

 

What can we plant under mature mesquite and palo verde = trees in Tucson?  We currently are successful with rosemary, but shrubs get leggy.  I'm looking for suggestions for shrubs, flowers and = cacti.  Thanks

 

 

Ann Boland
ann@annboland.com
Integrated Learning Solutions, Inc.
2720 W. Calle Cuero de Vaca
Tucson, AZ 85745
v - 520-624-9575
f - 520.624.5436
mobile - 520-241-4838

------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C1A38B.B4C0CB40-- From umiller@azdps.com Wed Jan 23 04:28:13 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 21:28:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus - When Is It Ripe In-Reply-To: <200201220253.g0M2ree04157@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: The answer is b) sampling. But -- Go to this site: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener and type in citrus ripe and then hit the Search button. This question has been asked before and there are a couple of answers there. You can use this same site to ask other questions on desert gardening that may already have been posted and answered. Hope this helps and good luck with your fruit. Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Morford@aol.com Sent: Monday, January 21, 2002 7:54 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have lemon, orange and grapefruit trees and wonder how to judge when to start harvesting? Do you wait with a squeeze test to determine softness or do sampling to determine sweetness? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From jkandell@twistedclicks.com Wed Jan 23 16:45:11 2002 From: jkandell@twistedclicks.com (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 09:45:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] natural signs of spring? Message-ID: <000601c1a42f$69523d20$91a20404@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_007F_01C1A3F2.A6C31360 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Do any of you use "rules of thumb" to know when it's time to plant = heat-loving vegetables in the desert? Two I've heard for Tucson area = are frost is not likely any more "when harvester ants come back up" and = also "when mesquites start growing again". Any legitimacy to these? jk ------=_NextPart_000_007F_01C1A3F2.A6C31360 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Do any of you use "rules of thumb" to = know when=20 it's time to plant heat-loving vegetables in the desert?  Two I've = heard=20 for Tucson area are frost is not likely any more "when harvester ants = come back=20 up" and also "when mesquites start growing again".  Any legitimacy = to=20 these?
 
jk
------=_NextPart_000_007F_01C1A3F2.A6C31360-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Jan 23 21:11:33 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 14:11:33 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] When is Citrus Ripe? References: <200201220253.g0M2ree04157@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C4F2704.652C8F4@qwest.net> In addition to the replies you have already received, it is helpful to start with knowledge of the variety of lemons, oranges, grapefruits. They are not all ready to harvest at the same time. If you have knowledge of this, you could consult the calendar in our publication on citrus varieties [AZ 1001] at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm And don't expect color to be an indicator, as it is impacted by the amount of cold we experience. Ultimately, as Ursula notes, the true test is sample and taste. Linda Guy, MG Morford@aol.com wrote: > I have lemon, orange and grapefruit trees and wonder how to judge when to start harvesting? Do you wait with a squeeze test to determine softness or do sampling to determine sweetness? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From drgeorgepool@hotmail.com Thu Jan 24 03:34:41 2002 From: drgeorgepool@hotmail.com (David George) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 03:34:41 Subject: [Arid_gardener] start again Message-ID:
would you please start sending newsletters again.
 
thanks   Dave


Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. Click Here
From jkandell@twistedclicks.com Thu Jan 24 19:08:03 2002 From: jkandell@twistedclicks.com (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 12:08:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] when to plant Imperial Star artichoke? Message-ID: <002001c1a50a$8a2ac7c0$13ab3604@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001D_01C1A4CF.C67C3960 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Does anyone know when to transplant out Imperial Star artichoke = seedlings? These are a special hybrid artichoke developed to develop in = a single season. jk ------=_NextPart_000_001D_01C1A4CF.C67C3960 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Does anyone know when to transplant out = Imperial=20 Star artichoke seedlings? These are a special hybrid artichoke developed = to=20 develop in a single season.
 
jk
------=_NextPart_000_001D_01C1A4CF.C67C3960-- From jrh346@hotmail.com Fri Jan 25 02:18:51 2002 From: jrh346@hotmail.com (jrh346@hotmail.com) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 19:18:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201250218.g0P2IpK05927@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a silk oak that is dying.It has small holes in the trunk as if a borer is there. Is there a borer or a desease that infects silk oaks and is there a cure? Thank You J.R.H. From CJINAZ99@HOME.COM Fri Jan 25 03:16:41 2002 From: CJINAZ99@HOME.COM (CJINAZ99@HOME.COM) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 20:16:41 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201250316.g0P3GfK16863@Ag.arizona.edu> We are new to the valley. We have 2 orange trees, a grapefruit and a lemon tree. We really don't have any idea how to care for them. Could you give us some advice. Thank you. From gardenguru" Message-ID: <030b01c1a59a$eddb3f80$bd382ace@ibm22761658747> Our Extension service offers several publications for care of citrus trees. Here are the sites with this data. Check them out. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg GG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 8:16 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > We are new to the valley. We have 2 orange trees, a grapefruit and a lemon tree. We really don't have any idea how to care for them. Could you give us some advice. Thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From umiller@azdps.com Fri Jan 25 17:06:53 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 10:06:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Shade loving plants In-Reply-To: <000d01c1a5b2$d4b6dc40$6382dd18@az.sprintbbd.net> Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C1A588.03A58900 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Mark, Ann – Yes, I forgot about geraniums. What a great little plant! On the salvia – I was going to mention it, but mine took over when I had a bed of mixed salvias under the mesquite tree. “Leggy” would be an understatement. I had a jungle – colorful, but way too much helter-skelter kind of thing, even though I planted the various kinds with a color plan in mind. The jungle took only one year to happen. Maybe I planted them too close or didn’t prune enough. Anyway, they’re a good idea, too. On the yellow bells – I learned something with them, too. There are two different kinds. One that grows into a nice bush that can get fairly big without pruning but can be kept in check with periodic pruning. And then there’s another kind that grows to be as big as a house (literally). I have both and one grows to my roof. It takes a lot to keep this one under control. So I guess the trick is to make sure you read the label. Ursula Miller a nice bush that can get fairly big withou -----Original Message----- From: Mark Mittelstaedt [mailto:mexicopete@worldnet.att.net] Sent: Friday, Jan 25, 2002 8:13 AM To: Ursula Miller Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Shade loving plants Ann / Ursula - geraniums do pretty well in these conditions. I can also vouch for the periwinkle - I have one growing under a Mexican lime - shadier than the mesquite - and I only need to hack it back twice a year. If the area inquestion gets some sun - justicia works, as does yellow bells and salvia greggii. There is some legginess, but you will get a few years of lush growth. I like the layered look. ----- Original Message ----- From: Ursula Miller To: Ann Boland ; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2002 9:28 PM Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] Shade loving plants Ann - Right now I have some stock and petunias in a circle around the base of my large mesquite tree. They seem to get enough morning sun early to keep them happy and after the little leaflets fall off, they’ll get even more sun since the tree will be bare for a while. Of course, these flowers will die in the summer. A couple of years ago I planted vinca minor – the leafy trailing kind (also called periwinkle) that has little blue/purple flowers, not the vinca with the multicolored flowers. It grew and grew and grew -------. It looked very nice because it was green all year long and made kind of a green mound around the tree, but it got out of hand. Maybe I didn’t trim it enough. I finally pulled it out. So this is a good choice if you’re willing to do regular trimming. Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Ann Boland Sent: Monday, January 21, 2002 5:59 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Shade loving plants What can we plant under mature mesquite and palo verde trees in Tucson? We currently are successful with rosemary, but shrubs get leggy. I'm looking for suggestions for shrubs, flowers and cacti. Thanks Ann Boland ann@annboland.com Integrated Learning Solutions, Inc. 2720 W. Calle Cuero de Vaca Tucson, AZ 85745 v - 520-624-9575 f - 520.624.5436 mobile - 520-241-4838 ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C1A588.03A58900 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Mark, Ann =96

 

Yes, I forgot about geraniums.=A0 What a great little plant!

 

On the salvia =96 I was going to mention it, but mine took over = when I had a bed of mixed salvias under the mesquite tree.=A0 =93Leggy=94 would be an understatement.=A0 I had a jungle =96 colorful, but way too much = helter-skelter kind of thing, even though I planted the various kinds with a color plan in mind.=A0=A0 The jungle took = only one year to happen.=A0 Maybe I planted them = too close or didn=92t prune enough.=A0 = Anyway, they=92re a good idea, too.

 

On the yellow bells =96 I learned something with them, too. There = are two different kinds.=A0 One that = grows into a nice bush that can get fairly big without pruning but can be kept in = check with periodic pruning.=A0 And then = there=92s another kind that grows to be as big as a house (literally).=A0=A0 I have both and one grows to = my roof.=A0 It takes a lot to keep this one = under control.=A0 So I guess the = trick is to make sure you read the label.

 

Ursula Miller

=A0a nice bush that can get fairly big withou

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Mittelstaedt [mailto:mexicopete@worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Friday, Jan 25, = 2002 8:13 AM
To: Ursula Miller
Subject: Re: = [Arid_gardener] Shade loving plants

 

Ann / Ursula - geraniums do pretty well in these conditions. I can also vouch for the periwinkle - I have one growing under a Mexican lime - shadier than the mesquite - and I only need to hack it back twice a year. If the area = inquestion gets some sun - justicia works, as does yellow bells and salvia greggii. = There is some legginess, but you will get a few years of lush growth. I like = the layered look.

----- Original Message -----

 

To: Ann = Boland ; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu

Sent: Tuesday, = January 22, 2002 9:28 PM

Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] Shade loving plants

 

Ann = -

 

Right now I have = some stock and petunias in a circle around the base of my large mesquite tree.=A0 They seem to get enough morning = sun early to keep them happy and after the little leaflets fall off, they=92ll get = even more sun since the tree will be bare for a while.=A0 Of course, these flowers will die in the = summer.

 

A couple of years = ago I planted vinca minor =96 the leafy trailing kind (also called periwinkle) = that has little blue/purple flowers, not the vinca with the multicolored = flowers.=A0 It grew and grew and grew = -------.=A0 It looked very nice because it = was green all year long and made kind of a green mound around the tree, but it got out = of hand.=A0 Maybe I didn=92t trim = it enough.=A0=A0 I finally pulled = it out.=A0 So this is a good choice if = you=92re willing to do regular trimming.

 

Ursula Miller

Not a Master = Gardener

 

-----Original Message-----
From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu = [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Ann Boland
Sent: Monday, January 21, = 2002 5:59 PM
To: = arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Shade loving plants

 

What can we plant under mature mesquite and = palo verde trees in Tucson?  We currently are successful with rosemary, = but shrubs get leggy.  I'm looking for suggestions for shrubs, flowers = and cacti.  Thanks

 

 

Ann Boland
ann@annboland.com
Integrated Learning Solutions, Inc.
2720 W. Calle Cuero de Vaca
Tucson, AZ 85745
v - 520-624-9575
f - 520.624.5436
mobile - 520-241-4838

------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C1A588.03A58900-- From sdilli@quest.net Fri Jan 25 17:39:44 2002 From: sdilli@quest.net (sdilli@quest.net) Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 10:39:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201251739.g0PHdhK14739@Ag.arizona.edu> Where can I purchase alfalfa hay for mulch? From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri Jan 25 17:01:23 2002 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 10:01:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] when to plant Imperial Star artichoke? /In Tucson? References: <002001c1a50a$8a2ac7c0$13ab3604@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <004a01c1a5c8$ee218160$3952530c@j0r9501> As I understand it , Imperial Star was developed as an annual to be grown in regions like the Midwest where the common Green Globe perennial is not adapted. From what I have seen on gardening email lists and newsgroups, it has been pretty successful in those regions. But from my own experience and that of some other Phoenix area gardeners, Green Globe does better here. When Imperial Star was first offered, I tried transplanting from 4-inch pots in October - the plants died out over the winter. Two years ago, our garden club grew and sold 1 gallon Imperial Star plants at the January Home and Garden Show in Phoenix and we assume the transplants were set out at about that time. The reports I received (and my own experience) indicated the buds only grew to 1 1/2 to 2 inches dia. before the thistle-like blossoms emerged. So I expect January is too late although it is well within the November to mid February dates recommended for Green Globe. I would plant about the same time as other cool season crops and protect from our light winter frosts. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jonathan Kandell" Does anyone know when to transplant out Imperial Star artichoke seedlings? These are a special hybrid artichoke developed to develop in a single season. jk From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Jan 25 18:23:18 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 13:23:18 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Silk Oak with borers Message-ID: <114.b550c61.2982fc96@aol.com> --part1_114.b550c61.2982fc96_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Insects and disease are attracted to trees that are under stress, so I would suspect that your silk oak is stressed. The principle cause of stress here in the low desert is improper irrigation. Other causes are compacted soil, any construction damage that cuts the roots, storm damage, and improper pruning. The best thing you can do for your tree is to deep water it periodically. The insecticide Lindane sometimes helps to control the borers and should be applied in May or June. Check out this site for info on proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_114.b550c61.2982fc96_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Insects and disease are attracted to trees that are under stress, so I would suspect that your silk oak is stressed. The principle cause of stress here in the low desert is improper irrigation. Other causes are compacted soil, any construction damage that cuts the roots, storm damage, and improper pruning.
The best thing you can do for your tree is to deep water it periodically. The insecticide Lindane sometimes helps to control the borers and should be applied in May or June.


Check out this site for info on proper irrigation:  http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
--part1_114.b550c61.2982fc96_boundary-- From rmford1@mindspring.com Fri Jan 25 19:06:32 2002 From: rmford1@mindspring.com (Renea Ford) Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 12:06:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Yellow-green blue palo verde Message-ID: <008401c1a5d3$68093180$4581fc9e@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0081_01C1A598.BA962A60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I planted a blue palo verde last August. It has since turned from a = blue-green color to a yellow-green color, with some tips dead (brown and = crisp). It turned this way last fall when I learned I was overwatering = most plants and trees in my yard. It is the last tree on the irrigation = line. Another blue palo verde planted earlier in the year in the middle = of the irrigation line is doing fine. It would've gotten overwatered as = well. Is the yellow-green palo verde necessarily dead? Did it get this way = because of too much, too little water, or something else? ------=_NextPart_000_0081_01C1A598.BA962A60 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I planted a blue palo verde last August.  It = has since=20 turned from a blue-green color to a yellow-green color, with some tips = dead=20 (brown and crisp).  It turned this way last fall when I learned I = was=20 overwatering most plants and trees in my yard.  It is the last tree = on the=20 irrigation line.  Another blue palo verde planted earlier in the = year in=20 the middle of the irrigation line is doing fine.  It would've = gotten=20 overwatered as well.
 
Is the yellow-green palo verde necessarily = dead? =20 Did it get this way because of too much, too little water, or something=20 else?
------=_NextPart_000_0081_01C1A598.BA962A60-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Jan 25 20:25:52 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 20:25:52 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] alfalfa hay Message-ID: >From: sdilli@quest.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 10:39:44 -0700 (MST) > >Where can I purchase alfalfa hay for mulch? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Check the Yellow Pages for your location -- look for feed stores. They should carry alfalfa hay, straw, etc. I've mulched with straw but never tried alfalfa hay for fear it would contain too many seeds and start sprouting. _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Jan 25 22:00:41 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 17:00:41 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palo Verde overwatered Message-ID: <8f.1618eb1d.29832f89@aol.com> --part1_8f.1618eb1d.29832f89_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Renea, Overwatering plants or trees can be as critical as underwatering. Too much water in the root zone will eliminate the oxygen which plants need. In your case I suspect that the soil may drain better for the palo verde that is doing ok, whereas the soil may not drain as well or have caliche under the other tree. If you haven't corrected the irrigation you could lose one or more trees. For the palo verde planted last August watering once every two to three weeks would be very adequate for winter watering. Check out this site for info on proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_8f.1618eb1d.29832f89_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Renea,

Overwatering plants or trees can be as critical as underwatering. Too much water in the root zone will eliminate the oxygen which plants need. In your case I suspect that the soil may drain better for the palo verde that is doing ok, whereas the soil may not drain as well or have caliche under the other tree.
If you haven't corrected the irrigation you could lose one or more trees.
For the palo verde planted last August watering once every two to three weeks would be very adequate for winter watering.
Check out this site for info on proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
--part1_8f.1618eb1d.29832f89_boundary-- From Hzltarr@aol.com Sun Jan 27 01:45:19 2002 From: Hzltarr@aol.com (Hzltarr@aol.com) Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 18:45:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201270145.g0R1jJK12775@Ag.arizona.edu> I had a row (12 plants) of 3 ft. oleander planted 2 months ago. Should I trim these back. In the midwest we cut back 1/3 off new shrubs and trees. The nursery man that planted them looked at me like I was crazy when I asked him and just said give them extra water for a month. Thanks for your help,, I am new here. From Hzltarr@aol.com Sun Jan 27 01:45:54 2002 From: Hzltarr@aol.com (Hzltarr@aol.com) Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 18:45:54 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201270145.g0R1jsK12816@Ag.arizona.edu> I had a row (12 plants) of 3 ft. oleander planted 2 months ago. Should I trim these back. In the midwest we cut back 1/3 off new shrubs and trees. The nursery man that planted them looked at me like I was crazy when I asked him and just said give them extra water for a month. Thanks for your help,, I am new here. From naturopathicphy@pol.net Sun Jan 27 03:40:32 2002 From: naturopathicphy@pol.net (naturopathicphy@pol.net) Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 20:40:32 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201270340.g0R3eWK24746@Ag.arizona.edu> I wish to plant bouganvilla along the south face of a six foot high wall running about 80 feet along the north side of my property. The subsoil is the native desert soil/rock of the south side of Mummy Mountain in the town of Paradise Valley, Az. I have added about 18 to 24 inches of dirt/goat manuer mix (sitting last one year) with a top dressing of about 4 to 6 inches of "Omni mix" from Western Organic Co. I want to plant several color varieties of bouganvilla. How far apart should the plants be? Should I plant seeds? Can I propagate shoots? Should I plant one gallon container plants? If seeds are best, where can I purchase them? Should I use flood, drip, or soaker hose watering system? Thank you in advance for any help you are able to give me on this subject. From naturopathicphy@pol.net Sun Jan 27 03:42:22 2002 From: naturopathicphy@pol.net (naturopathicphy@pol.net) Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 20:42:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201270342.g0R3gMK24935@Ag.arizona.edu> I wish to plant bouganvilla along the south face of a six foot high wall running about 80 feet along the north side of my property. The subsoil is the native desert soil/rock of the south side of Mummy Mountain in the town of Paradise Valley, Az. I have added about 18 to 24 inches of dirt/goat manuer mix (sitting last one year) with a top dressing of about 4 to 6 inches of "Omni mix" from Western Organic Co. I want to plant several color varieties of bouganvilla. How far apart should the plants be? Should I plant seeds? Can I propagate shoots? Should I plant one gallon container plants? If seeds are best, where can I purchase them? Should I use flood, drip, or soaker hose watering system? Thank you in advance for any help you are able to give me on this subject. Sincerely, Robert Gear From naturopathicphy@pol.net Sun Jan 27 03:43:36 2002 From: naturopathicphy@pol.net (naturopathicphy@pol.net) Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 20:43:36 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201270343.g0R3haK25036@Ag.arizona.edu> I wish to plant bouganvilla along the south face of a six foot high wall running about 80 feet along the north side of my property. The subsoil is the native desert soil/rock of the south side of Mummy Mountain in the town of Paradise Valley, Az. I have added about 18 to 24 inches of dirt/goat manuer mix (sitting last one year) with a top dressing of about 4 to 6 inches of "Omni mix" from Western Organic Co. I want to plant several color varieties of bouganvilla. How far apart should the plants be? Should I plant seeds? Can I propagate shoots? Should I plant one gallon container plants? If seeds are best, where can I purchase them? Should I use flood, drip, or soaker hose watering system? Thank you in advance for any help you are able to give me on this subject. Sincerely, Robert Gear From adonai77@msn.com Sun Jan 27 03:58:33 2002 From: adonai77@msn.com (adonai77@msn.com) Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 20:58:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201270358.g0R3wXK26086@Ag.arizona.edu> What tree would fit this bill: low water usage, offer good shade, clean, and hardy? Would ficus nitidia meet these requirements? Thank you for your help. From sjbass@qwest.net Sun Jan 27 04:11:00 2002 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 21:11:00 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvillea Care References: <200201270340.g0R3eWK24746@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C537DD4.2D97D8E6@qwest.net> Following is a quote from fellow Master Gardener Rod McKusick in response to a past question regarding Bougainvillea care: "Once Bougainvillea has become established it requires very little water. After the first year I remove the drippers and water only under extremely dry conditions. This will give you much more color. It also requires very little fertilizer; a very light application once a year would be adequate. Bougainvillea without full sun will not do well. This plant does not like to have it's roots disturbed by cultivating or planting another plant near by." Bougainvilleas can grow to a width of 6 feet or more. Perhaps someone else on the list can tell you how far apart to plant them. For information about planting without disturbing the roots, go to: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-October/005526.html For information on propagation, please use the following link to the chapter in the Master Gardener manual: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/propagation/index.html Sue Bass Master Gardener naturopathicphy@pol.net wrote: > I wish to plant bouganvilla along the south face of a six foot high wall running about 80 feet along the north side of my property. The subsoil is the native desert soil/rock of the south side of Mummy Mountain in the town of Paradise Valley, Az. I have added about 18 to 24 inches of dirt/goat manuer mix (sitting last one year) with a top dressing of about 4 to 6 inches of "Omni mix" from Western Organic Co. I want to plant several color varieties of bouganvilla. How far apart should the plants be? Should I plant seeds? Can I propagate shoots? Should I plant one gallon container plants? If seeds are best, where can I purchase them? Should I use flood, drip, or soaker hose watering system? Thank you in advance for any help you are able to give me on this subject. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From isabelle@vtc.net Sun Jan 27 04:20:29 2002 From: isabelle@vtc.net (isabelle@vtc.net) Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 21:20:29 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201270420.g0R4KTK27506@Ag.arizona.edu> Is it possible to grow grapes with any success in the Pearce/ Sunsite area of Southeast Arizona From gardenguru" Message-ID: <002901c1a73e$b2a8c360$54382ace@ibm22761658747> There are grapes that do well in So. AZ. The county has published doc. MC59 that provides info re: varieties, planting and care. It is not yet avail online but you can order it from the Ext Office for $1. The addr is - In Phoenix Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 (602) 470-8086 ext. 301 8:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. Monday through Friday ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2002 9:20 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Is it possible to grow grapes with any success in the Pearce/ Sunsite area of Southeast Arizona > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From gardenguru" Message-ID: <003c01c1a740$2a1131c0$54382ace@ibm22761658747> Ficus Natida is a good tree for So AZ but it is not a low water use tree. It does provide good shade and is not messy. It grows to 25/30 fr high X 20 Wide. The Ext. Office has publushed two doc that privide details for trees and thier care that are adapted to our heat and soil conditions. MC13 Trees for Mar. Cty AZ1022 Trees and Shrubs/ Planting These are not yet avail online but can be ordered from the Ext Office for $1 each. Their address is In Phoenix Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 (602) 470-8086 ext. 301 8:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. Monday through Friday GG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2002 8:58 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > What tree would fit this bill: low water usage, offer good shade, clean, and hardy? > Would ficus nitidia meet these requirements? > Thank you for your help. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From umiller@azdps.com Sun Jan 27 14:55:05 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 07:55:05 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning Oleanders In-Reply-To: <200201270145.g0R1jsK12816@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Go to this site: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener and type in oleander pruning or other terms that might come to mind. You'll see previous messages about this topic (or any other desert gardening topic you may be interested in). One more thing - Eric Johnson in his Pruning Planting and Care book says that oleanders should be pruned once a year, after flowering. Prune them into an informal rounded form (he doesn't like the globe look). Cut back every other branch to the first large V - usually 6-9 inches back. This opens up the interior to sunlight and gives the plants an informal, natural look. I notice that the common area landscapers in my community cut back mature oleanders to about 1 foot off the ground every few years (just stubs are left). They seem to do it in sections, so that some are tall, some are short and some are in-between. The new ones that have been cut back come back in a very full rounded style. Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Hzltarr@aol.com Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2002 6:46 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I had a row (12 plants) of 3 ft. oleander planted 2 months ago. Should I trim these back. In the midwest we cut back 1/3 off new shrubs and trees. The nursery man that planted them looked at me like I was crazy when I asked him and just said give them extra water for a month. Thanks for your help,, I am new here. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From umiller@azdps.com Sun Jan 27 14:55:16 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 07:55:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvillea In-Reply-To: <200201270343.g0R3haK25036@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Robert - In addition to the other answers you've received, here is a site that you can view. This man's specialty was bougainvilleas. He's in Florida, but the basics are the same. He also has a listing of different types and addresses planting seeds at the web site. I have never planted seeds, but I've planted a lot of one-gallon containers that do well. I guess how fast you want the wall covered depends on whether you plant seeds, one gallon containers, etc. Keep in mind, too, that there are shrub bougainvilleas, vine bougainvilleas, so be sure to check the tags to make sure you get the right kind. But, as Sue's message says, make sure that you don't disturb the roots when planting. This is very important because it's a sure killer. http://bougainvillea.freeyellow.com Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of naturopathicphy@pol.net Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2002 8:44 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I wish to plant bouganvilla along the south face of a six foot high wall running about 80 feet along the north side of my property. The subsoil is the native desert soil/rock of the south side of Mummy Mountain in the town of Paradise Valley, Az. I have added about 18 to 24 inches of dirt/goat manuer mix (sitting last one year) with a top dressing of about 4 to 6 inches of "Omni mix" from Western Organic Co. I want to plant several color varieties of bouganvilla. How far apart should the plants be? Should I plant seeds? Can I propagate shoots? Should I plant one gallon container plants? If seeds are best, where can I purchase them? Should I use flood, drip, or soaker hose watering system? Thank you in advance for any help you are able to give me on this subject. Sincerely, Robert Gear _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From azmdm@aol.com Sun Jan 27 14:54:04 2002 From: azmdm@aol.com (azmdm@aol.com) Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 07:54:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201271454.g0REs4K13559@Ag.arizona.edu> Is it recommended to plant a semi-dwarf peach in a lawn area? Or should I seek to plant it along the block wall border? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Jan 27 15:00:54 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 15:00:54 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] shade tree Message-ID: There are a number of excellent trees that fit these requirements. One of my favorites is Xylosma -- check Sunset Garden Book for details. I'm not familiar with Ficus microcarpa nitida, but Sunset mentions southern California, not hot interior deserts, as recommended zones. I hope others will contribute their favorites (give me some new ideas!) and their experience with the fig. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: adonai77@msn.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 20:58:33 -0700 (MST) > >What tree would fit this bill: low water usage, offer good shade, clean, >and hardy? >Would ficus nitidia meet these requirements? >Thank you for your help. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Jan 28 00:24:29 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 17:24:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Meyers Lemon Tree References: Message-ID: <3C549A3D.BE724EAC@qwest.net> --------------9A84981E4276270D1E730010 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I took your question to one of the UA pathology staff at this weekend's annual citrus clinic. Dr. Michael Matheron says that the Meyers budwood is particularly good at carrying tristeza, which is why it is now allowed in AZ. He says that although growers may do their best to seek out 'clean' budwood, it's almost impossible to guarantee it is disease-free. He further indicated that tristeza is all over FL and that there are efforts underway to 'inoculate' citrus with less virulent virus forms in an effort to keep them from succumbing to more deadly strains. You would have to take the question of Meyers lemon's legality and/or advisability to your own county's cooperative extension office, whose phone number you can find in the government phone listings. You live very close to my mom, who is in Beverly Hills. I'm always reminded of how small a world it is. Linda Guy, MG Maricopa County [Phoenix], AZ Angelspalm1@aol.com wrote: > Hi Linda, > I'm writing to you because I recently purchased a Meyer's Lemon Tree, > and was looking up info on the internet .. your answer to a question > about losing leaves told the person that " Fri, 20 Oct 2000 16:55:03 > -0700 By the way, did you know that Meyers is now illegal [and > therefore no longer available] in Arizona because it is a carrier of > citrus tristeza virus? It is a devastating disease ofother citrus > trees. Linda Guy Master Gardener > I live in North Central Florida, in Orange Springs which is Northeast > of Ocala 30 miles and Southeast of Gaineville 30 miles.. shall I > contact my extension program or has this problem been eliminated.. the > nursery that I purchased this speciman at said it was compatible to > this area.. Thank you Patricia Chambers --------------9A84981E4276270D1E730010 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I took your question to one of the UA pathology staff at this weekend's annual citrus clinic. Dr. Michael Matheron says that the Meyers budwood is particularly good at carrying tristeza, which is why it is now allowed in AZ. He says that although growers may do their best to seek out 'clean' budwood, it's almost impossible to guarantee it is disease-free. He further indicated that tristeza is all over FL and that there are efforts underway to 'inoculate' citrus with less virulent virus forms in an effort to keep them from succumbing to more deadly strains.

You would have to take the question of Meyers lemon's legality and/or advisability to your own county's cooperative extension office, whose phone number you can find in the government phone listings.

You live very close to my mom, who is in Beverly Hills. I'm always reminded of how small a world it is.

Linda Guy, MG
Maricopa County [Phoenix], AZ

Angelspalm1@aol.com wrote:

Hi Linda,
I'm writing to you because I recently purchased a Meyer's Lemon Tree, and was looking up info on the internet .. your answer to a question about losing leaves told the person that " Fri, 20 Oct 2000 16:55:03 -0700 By the way, did you know that Meyers is now illegal [and therefore no longer available] in Arizona because it is a carrier of citrus tristeza virus? It is a devastating disease ofother citrus trees. Linda Guy  Master Gardener
I live in North Central Florida, in Orange Springs which is Northeast of Ocala 30 miles and Southeast of Gaineville 30 miles.. shall I contact my extension program or has this problem been eliminated.. the nursery that I purchased this speciman at said it was compatible to this area..  Thank you  Patricia Chambers
--------------9A84981E4276270D1E730010-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Jan 28 00:26:44 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 17:26:44 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Wall-o-waters References: <000101c1a777$620ab420$a5a20404@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <3C549AC4.7F11EE71@qwest.net> --------------ADD7F5A36A29783EECD1D736 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The wall-o-waters do not close at the top as the volume of water [assuming you fill the chambers fairly high up] is sufficient to keep the top open. This year I'm trying the red ones to see if production is enhanced. Linda Guy, MG Jonathan Kandell wrote: > You mentioned previously you used wallowaters in Februrary for > tomatoes. I was wondering how one prevents overheating with those. > In our hot/cold, hot/cold early spring, we need to avoid high > temperatures as much as we need to raise night temperatures. Will an > open wallowater prevent freezing death? Also wondering if you preheat > the soil with plastic mulch before using wallowaters. Have you > experimented at all with plastic low tunnels? jk --------------ADD7F5A36A29783EECD1D736 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The wall-o-waters do not close at the top as the volume of water [assuming you fill the chambers fairly high up] is sufficient to keep the top open. This year I'm trying the red ones to see if production is enhanced.

Linda Guy, MG
 

Jonathan Kandell wrote:

You mentioned previously you used wallowaters in Februrary for tomatoes.  I was wondering how one prevents overheating with those.  In our hot/cold, hot/cold early spring, we need to avoid high temperatures as much as we need to raise night temperatures.   Will an open wallowater prevent freezing death?  Also wondering if you preheat the soil with plastic mulch before using wallowaters.  Have you experimented at all with plastic low tunnels? jk
--------------ADD7F5A36A29783EECD1D736-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Jan 28 00:31:32 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 17:31:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Peach Trees in Lawns References: <200201271454.g0REs4K13559@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C549BE4.28A5AC74@qwest.net> Most any tree, including deciduous fruit trees, will grow in a lawn as long as their specific watering needs are met, separate and apart from what is applied to keep the turf looking good. You see this situation in many of our older neighborhoods that are flood-irrigated every two weeks. If you have sprinklers, you must be prepared to water your tree deeply at more distant intervals. Check out the MG Manual chapter on fruit trees for info on watering and other cultural practices. http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ Another useful publication for Maricopa County [MC 90] can be ordered at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm I would hesitate to be too close to a block wall which might provide too much heat and reduce the winter chill hours that all deciduous fruit trees need to produce fruit. Linda Guy, MG azmdm@aol.com wrote: > Is it recommended to plant a semi-dwarf peach in a lawn area? Or should I seek to plant it along the block wall border? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Jan 28 00:34:15 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 17:34:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tomatoes/vegetables. References: <200201141643.g0EGh0e03021@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C549C87.21908184@qwest.net> Many of us avid tomato fans will put out tomatoes in February, but we are willing to coddle them for the privilege of earlier and longer production. If I am that early in the season, all of my tomatoes are surrounded by a hothouse contraption called a wall-o-water, which you can find at any good nursery. Otherwise, it is better to wait until threat of frost goes. Our vegetable planting calendar is AZ 1005 and can be accessed from our publication list at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Good luck! Linda Guy, MG cdmunoz@earthlink.net wrote: > I live in Chandler, in the Ocotillo area. I want to plant some tomatoes. For the Spring planting, when is the best time to plant them and which variety does best for this climate? > > Since temperatures can get cold over night and can get very hot during the day, how do you care for them to get the best results? > > I have a very limited space. What other kinds of vegetables are easy to grow and do well for this climate? > > Thank you for all your information, > Cherri Munoz > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Jan 28 00:40:27 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 17:40:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Highway Screen References: Message-ID: <3C549DFB.F03176F0@qwest.net> --------------F04DA87706C8C8997DB88597 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I know you've received a few other replies but given your increased height specificity, here are a few more. I was at the UA annual citrus clinic yesterday, where in the fields of Greenfield's Nursery, I was visibly reminded that citrus are a very large shrub that we tend to train into tree form. If you want a 'producing barrier that is evergreen, this is an option. The larger varieties of Texas Rangers [leucophyllum] are a good bet. Texas Mtn. Laurel is another. The bushes you saw with the yellow flowers and grey/green foliage are probably brittlebush and they won't meet your height requirements. Of course, there is the ubiquitous oleander that makes a very nice dense hedge. For other ideas, you can use the advanced search function at elandscape [based in Phoenix] to specify your requirements. http://www.elandscape.com/lvl/lvl.html?s=a Linda Guy, MG AMANDA WELTY wrote: > I would love a native shrub that would grow taller. The taller the > better. I would like it to be evergreen and full, to really screen > the freeway well. I should also mention that we already have a 6 > ft chain link fence running the length of the offensive side, so if > the shrub was over 6 ft it could help hide the fence also. Some parts > of the loop 101 in Peoria are landscape with large bushes (grey/green > foliage, yellow flowers?), but I am concerned about their toxicity. > Texas Sage and Ruella were suggested and I will taking a look at > those. Any other suggestions? Amanda > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Linda Guy > Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 8:45 PM > To: waddell1615@msn.com > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW > page > Do you really think 4 feet will do it? There alot of native > shrubs that would grow quickly but most exceed 4'. Let us > know. > > Linda Guy, MG > > --------------F04DA87706C8C8997DB88597 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I know you've received a few other replies but given your increased height specificity, here are a few more. I was at the UA annual citrus clinic yesterday, where in the fields of Greenfield's Nursery, I was visibly reminded that citrus are a very large shrub that we tend to train into tree form. If you want a 'producing barrier that is evergreen, this is an option.

The larger varieties of Texas Rangers [leucophyllum] are a good bet. Texas Mtn. Laurel is another. The bushes you saw with the yellow flowers and grey/green foliage are probably brittlebush and they won't meet your height requirements. Of course, there is the ubiquitous oleander that makes a very nice dense hedge.

For other ideas, you can use the advanced search function at elandscape [based in Phoenix] to specify your requirements.  http://www.elandscape.com/lvl/lvl.html?s=a

Linda Guy, MG

AMANDA WELTY wrote:

I would love a native shrub that would grow taller.  The taller the better.  I would like it to be evergreen and full,  to really screen the freeway well.     I should also mention that we already have a 6 ft chain link fence running the length of the offensive side, so if the shrub was over 6 ft it could help hide the fence also.  Some parts of the loop 101 in Peoria are landscape with large bushes (grey/green foliage, yellow flowers?), but I am concerned about their toxicity.  Texas Sage and Ruella were suggested and I will taking a look at those.  Any other suggestions? Amanda 
----- Original Message -----
From: Linda Guy
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 8:45 PM
To: waddell1615@msn.com
Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
 Do you really think 4 feet will do it? There alot of native shrubs that would grow quickly but most exceed 4'. Let us know.

Linda Guy, MG
 

--------------F04DA87706C8C8997DB88597-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Jan 28 00:56:58 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 17:56:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Drooping cyclamen References: <000701c1a392$1d298ea0$5e8e0541@phnx1.az.home.com> Message-ID: <3C54A1DA.EBCB0A34@qwest.net> --------------C7AED778E992D7451986791A Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I consulted our flowers pub and did not see cyclamen listed.See AZ 1100 Flower Planting Guide for the Low Desert at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#top The Sunset Western Garden Book suggests that cyclamen's adaptability by zone depends on the species; none were listed for our zone 13, however. They all lose their leaves during part of the year, and these reappear before or with the flowers. They like very porous soil with lots of compost. If you just planted them in our dense clay, it probably wishes you'd amended the soil first. I have seen them sold in nurseries, but assumed they were indoor plants. SWGB suggests that what you have is a florist's cyclamen [blooms in late fall/winter] and that these are sold as potted plants, not tubers. Sadly, it does not go on to explain how to transfer to the yard. Maybe it shouldn't? Why not ask your favorite nursery if it has any, the type, and what they recommend for care practices? Linda Guy, MG "kerm59@home.com" wrote: > I just planted cyclamen in a shaded area on a north wall that tends to > stay cool and damp, at least in the winter. They did well for a week > or so, but now several of them are starting to droop. We have had > some cold mornings recently. Any suggestions would be appreciated. > Thanks --------------C7AED778E992D7451986791A Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I consulted our flowers pub and did not see cyclamen listed.See AZ 1100 Flower Planting Guide for the Low Desert at  http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#top

The Sunset Western Garden Book suggests that cyclamen's adaptability by zone depends on the species; none were listed for our zone 13, however. They all lose their leaves during part of the year, and these reappear before or with the flowers. They like very porous soil with lots of compost. If you just planted them in our dense clay, it probably wishes you'd amended the soil first.

I have seen them sold in nurseries, but assumed they were indoor plants. SWGB suggests that what you have is a florist's cyclamen [blooms in late fall/winter] and that these are sold as potted plants, not tubers. Sadly, it does not go on to explain how to transfer to the yard. Maybe it shouldn't? Why not ask your favorite nursery if it has any, the type, and what they recommend for care practices?

Linda Guy, MG
 

"kerm59@home.com" wrote:

I just planted cyclamen in a shaded area on a north wall that tends to stay cool and damp, at least in the winter.  They did well for a week or so, but now several of them are starting to droop.  We have had some cold mornings recently.  Any suggestions would be appreciated.  Thanks
--------------C7AED778E992D7451986791A-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Jan 28 01:00:18 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 18:00:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Spraying Olives References: <200201202332.g0KNWTe10545@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C54A2A2.73237DD1@qwest.net> You can order our publication on chemical removal of flowers on olives and mulberries at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Ornamentals You need to spray at several very precise times in the bloom cycle. Following the chemical's directions, spray with about 1/4 of the blossoms are open. Second aplications about 1 week after the first should get most of the later flowers. Linda Guy, MG kathy_cheatham@hotmail.com wrote: > When do you spray olive trees in the valley? Who would you recommend doing the spraying as we have several acres we are working with? > > We have an area that gets no sun and one that gets very little during the day. We do want grass in those areas and have heard of a couple that go no sun. What are your suggestions, the water requirements, best places to buy them, and fertilizer requirements? > > Thank you very much. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From kencoxphoto@earthlink.net Mon Jan 28 02:48:08 2002 From: kencoxphoto@earthlink.net ( ) Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 18:48:8 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: <41200211282488580@earthlink.net> ------=_NextPart_84815C5ABAF209EF376268C8 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Hi, I'm a photographer looking for an infestation of Cochineal Scale to photograph. Have had any reports of such lately? I'm looking for some where to start. Thanks, Ken Cox To See Image Portfolio for Ken Cox Photo click on the string below http://www.ozimages.com.au/portfolio.asp?MemberID=413 e-mail kencoxphoto@earthlink.net ------=_NextPart_84815C5ABAF209EF376268C8 Content-Type: text/html; charset=US-ASCII

Hi,
I'm a photographer looking for an infestation of Cochineal Scale to photograph.  Have had any reports of such lately?  I'm looking for some where to start.
Thanks,
Ken Cox
 
 
To See Image Portfolio for Ken Cox Photo click on the string below
 
 

------=_NextPart_84815C5ABAF209EF376268C8-- From paesan1@rraz.net Mon Jan 28 06:41:27 2002 From: paesan1@rraz.net (paesan1@rraz.net) Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 23:41:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201280641.g0S6fQK13923@Ag.arizona.edu> Hello, We have been in the area about one year and have a mesquite tree. Last year it dropped all of it's leaves. We found that our bubbler system was not working properly. Once things were re-set, the tree immediately grew new leaves. Now we are finding that the tree looks like it is going to drop it's leaves again. Is that normal? Was it just a coincidendce last year? Also, what can we do with all the seeds and pods? Thanks in advance for your quick response! From sjbass@qwest.net Mon Jan 28 14:55:18 2002 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 07:55:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite leaf drop References: <200201280641.g0S6fQK13923@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C556656.69889C43@qwest.net> Mesquites are naturally deciduous. They drop their leaves in the winter. The following link will take you to an archived response by fellow Master Gardener Linda Guy. http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-March/003388.html This response addresses proper care of Mesquites. If you wish to learn more about Mesquites, our archives are a great place to search. The following link will take you there. Just click on the Check Archived Messages section and you will arrive at a screen where you can type in a subject and see the many questions and answers pertaining to it. Sue Bass Master Gardener paesan1@rraz.net wrote: > Hello, > We have been in the area about one year and have a mesquite tree. Last year it dropped all of it's leaves. We found that our bubbler system was not working properly. Once things were re-set, the tree immediately grew new leaves. Now we are finding that the tree looks like it is going to drop it's leaves again. Is that normal? Was it just a coincidendce last year? Also, what can we do with all the seeds and pods? Thanks in advance for your quick response! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From everona@yahoo.com Mon Jan 28 14:57:31 2002 From: everona@yahoo.com (everona@yahoo.com) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 07:57:31 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201281457.g0SEvVK00169@Ag.arizona.edu> How does one restore the canopy of a citrus tree that has been overwatered. This person has been watering these trees twice a week. I have been pruning the dead debris. What is left is a tree that has no folage on the bottom of the tree and sparse canopy coverage. The person has painted the bottom with the white paint. Any suggestions for restoration??? From crymer@Ag.arizona.edu Mon Jan 28 17:11:03 2002 From: crymer@Ag.arizona.edu (Cathy Rymer) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 10:11:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20020128101032.00aaacc0@ag.arizona.edu> Ficus nitida is one of the highest water using trees planted in the low desert. A tree with a 20 foot canopy can easily use 45-50 gallons of water per day in June. It is frost tender and young trees can be frozen to the ground if we have temperatures below 25 degrees. Although this tree is evergreen it does drop leaves continually throughout the year, rather than all at once like deciduous trees. As it matures, this tree develops a dense canopy that will prevent all Bermuda grass varieties from growing underneath. The canopy can be as wide as 30 feet, so it requires a large space in the common urban yard. Why not consider one of the low water use tree choices? Even though some of these trees drop their leaves, the leaflets are very small and are barely noticeable in gravel or grass yards. The tiny leaves that fall are decomposed and release nutrients back into the soil. The Arizona Department of Water Resources has a Low Water Use Plant List that all municipals and government entities must use when landscaping. You can view (or print) a copy from http://www.adwr.state.az.us/documents/PlantLists/PHXPlantList2001.pdf Whatever tree you select, use the revised planting guidelines included in AZ1022 Planting Trees & Shrubs. You can download this University of Arizona bulletin at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1022.pdf For a complete list of U of A publications available to download on the Internet, visit http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm I hope this helps. Cathy At 08:58 PM 01/26/2002 -0700, you wrote: >What tree would fit this bill: low water usage, offer good shade, clean, >and hardy? >Would ficus nitidia meet these requirements? >Thank you for your help. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Catherine Rymer Instructional Specialist, Sr., Urban Horticulture University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Phoenix, AZ 85040 http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ From Ann Boland" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0023_01C1A80A.D8FA34A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable We are beginning to rework our entire yard. Probably lovely when built = seven years ago, but now shrubs are too big, or too shaded or just plain = unattractive. There are some we would like to transplant. I checked = the MG book, but there is nothing on transplanting mature shrubs. Any = thoughts? I have predominantly bougainvillea, lantana (both shrub and = ground cover form), pineapple guava, Texas ranger. Thanks Ann Boland ann@annboland.com Integrated Learning Solutions, Inc. 2720 W. Calle Cuero de Vaca Tucson, AZ 85745 v - 520-624-9575 f - 520.624.5436 mobile - 520-241-4838 ------=_NextPart_000_0023_01C1A80A.D8FA34A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
We are beginning to rework = our entire=20 yard.  Probably lovely when built seven years ago, but now shrubs = are too=20 big, or too shaded or just plain unattractive.  There are some we = would=20 like to transplant.  I checked the MG book, but there is nothing on = transplanting mature shrubs.  Any thoughts?  I have = predominantly=20 bougainvillea, lantana (both shrub and ground cover form), pineapple = guava,=20 Texas ranger.  Thanks
Ann Boland
ann@annboland.com
Integrated = Learning=20 Solutions, Inc.
2720 W. Calle Cuero de Vaca
Tucson, AZ 85745
v = -=20 520-624-9575
f - 520.624.5436
mobile -=20 520-241-4838
------=_NextPart_000_0023_01C1A80A.D8FA34A0-- From Rasafurian@cs.com Mon Jan 28 22:42:21 2002 From: Rasafurian@cs.com (Rasafurian@cs.com) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 15:42:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201282242.g0SMgLK24431@Ag.arizona.edu> I'm having a problem with my Palo Brea. During the summer, I noticed some small brown dots at the bottom of the trunk. I paid no attention until my tree started looking pale. By that time, the brown dots had spread up the tree and out along the branches. The tree is yellowish and has lost most of its leaves now, but the branches are still pliable and are not dead. I asked the landscaper who installed the tree about it, and he just told me to rub off the brown stuff. I did, but I'm worried that it's something that might infect the soil. None of my gardening manuals addresses this. Do you know what's going on? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Jan 28 22:47:59 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 17:47:59 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus tree, overwatered Message-ID: --part1_f2.15d5748c.29872f1f_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The best thing that can be done for an over watered citrus tree is to allow the soil dry out and to get the irrigation set on a proper watering schedule. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_f2.15d5748c.29872f1f_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The best thing that can be done for an over watered citrus tree is to allow the soil dry out and to get the irrigation set on a proper watering schedule.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_f2.15d5748c.29872f1f_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Jan 28 22:58:31 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 17:58:31 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palo brea dying Message-ID: --part1_a5.21d38918.29873197_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I suspect that you may be either over or under watering your Palo brea. Please advise the age of the tree as well as how much and how often you water the tree. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_a5.21d38918.29873197_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I suspect that you may be either over or under watering your Palo brea.
Please advise the age of the tree as well as how much and how often you water the tree.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener



--part1_a5.21d38918.29873197_boundary-- From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Mon Jan 28 23:07:51 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 15:07:51 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] mesquite tree leaves and pods In-Reply-To: <200201280641.g0S6fQK13923@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20020128230751.75313.qmail@web14912.mail.yahoo.com> Bel eave it or not! Mesquite trees dan go dormant in cold temps. It is possible this is what happened to your tree, especially if it is a young one.Water it DEEP every 2-3 weeks at this time of year. You can donate clean pods to the desert botanical garden,call them at(480)941-1225 and ask them. --- paesan1@rraz.net wrote: > Hello, > We have been in the area about one year and have a > mesquite tree. Last year it dropped all of it's > leaves. We found that our bubbler system was not > working properly. Once things were re-set, the tree > immediately grew new leaves. Now we are finding > that the tree looks like it is going to drop it's > leaves again. Is that normal? Was it just a > coincidendce last year? Also, what can we do with > all the seeds and pods? Thanks in advance for your > quick response! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Great stuff seeking new owners in Yahoo! Auctions! http://auctions.yahoo.com From dealejandro_family@yahoo.com Tue Jan 29 04:13:18 2002 From: dealejandro_family@yahoo.com (Edward & Jackee De Alejandro) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 21:13:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ornamental orange vs. Edible In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Hi, I live on Luke AFB in Glendale. I have a mature orange tree that I have been told is only for looks. I was told that we can not eat the oranges. Well call me curious but my husband and I tasted one and they are not that bad...they could be sweeter. My neighbor also said that she has eaten the oranges off of this tree. Someone told me that if the tree has thorns that you can't eat the fruit? Is this true? Because this trees has what looks like thorns...Anyway, hope someone can tell me the difference or point me in the right direction to find out. Oh yeah, the oranges stayed green all summer and once it cooled off they got orange, what does that mean? Is that the normal cycle? I have never watered this tree aside from the water it gets from us watering the lawn in the summer. Please help! Jackee D. From kencoxphoto@earthlink.net Tue Jan 29 16:13:07 2002 From: kencoxphoto@earthlink.net ( ) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 8:13:7 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cochineal scale Message-ID: <412002122916137310@earthlink.net> ------=_NextPart_84815C5ABAF209EF376268C8 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Hi, I'm looking for some good examples of Cochineal infestation. I'm a photographer and I'm hoping to find a good example to photograph for a publisher. Any recommendations? Thanks, Ken Cox To See Image Portfolio for Ken Cox Photo click on the string below http://www.ozimages.com.au/portfolio.asp?MemberID=413 e-mail kencoxphoto@earthlink.net ------=_NextPart_84815C5ABAF209EF376268C8 Content-Type: text/html; charset=US-ASCII

Hi,
I'm looking for some good examples of Cochineal infestation.  I'm a photographer and I'm hoping to find a good example to photograph for a publisher.  Any recommendations?
Thanks,
Ken Cox 
 
 
To See Image Portfolio for Ken Cox Photo click on the string below
 
 

------=_NextPart_84815C5ABAF209EF376268C8-- From gwiemelt@msn.com Tue Jan 29 16:20:11 2002 From: gwiemelt@msn.com (gwiemelt@msn.com) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 09:20:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201291620.g0TGKBK05503@Ag.arizona.edu> What is the best way to grow Red Yucca from seed? From cenalmor@yahoo.com Tue Jan 29 16:42:19 2002 From: cenalmor@yahoo.com (Barbara Cenalmor) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 08:42:19 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cochineal scale In-Reply-To: <412002122916137310@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <20020129164219.28926.qmail@web14701.mail.yahoo.com> --0-1179682885-1012322539=:27571 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Ken, I don't know if you live in AZ, but if you do, all you have to do is drive around and look in people's yards, you are bound to find a prickly pear somewhere covered in cochineal scale. Also, I was out in the desert last weekend (North of Fountain Hills) and saw several cactus covered. As another alternative, I haven't been to the Desert Botanical Gardens in the last couple of months, but last time I was there in September, there were several plants with cochineal scale. Barbara C. (Master Gardener) wrote: Hi,I'm looking for some good examples of Cochineal infestation. I'm a photographer and I'm hoping to find a good example to photograph for a publisher. Any recommendations?Thanks,Ken Cox To See Image Portfolio for Ken Cox Photo click on the string below http://www.ozimages.com.au/portfolio.asp?MemberID=413 e-mail kencoxphoto@earthlink.net --------------------------------- Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Auctions Great stuff seeking new owners! Bid now! --0-1179682885-1012322539=:27571 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

Ken,

I don't know if you live in AZ, but if you do, all you have to do is drive around and look in people's yards, you are bound to find a prickly pear somewhere covered in cochineal scale.  Also, I was out in the desert last weekend (North of Fountain Hills) and saw several cactus covered.  As another alternative, I haven't been to the Desert Botanical Gardens in the last couple of months, but last time I was there in September, there were several plants with cochineal scale. 

Barbara C. (Master Gardener)

  <kencoxphoto@earthlink.net> wrote:

Hi,
I'm looking for some good examples of Cochineal infestation.  I'm a photographer and I'm hoping to find a good example to photograph for a publisher.  Any recommendations?
Thanks,
Ken Cox 
 
 
To See Image Portfolio for Ken Cox Photo click on the string below
 
 



Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions Great stuff seeking new owners! Bid now! --0-1179682885-1012322539=:27571-- From ccromell@amug.org Tue Jan 29 19:00:20 2002 From: ccromell@amug.org (Cathy Cromell) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 12:00:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] what are you doing that's earth friendly? Message-ID: Hi fellow gardeners, As you may know, the next book from Arizona Master Gardener Press is about earth-friendly gardening and landscaping. Major topics will cover Water Conservation; Water Quality Preservation (e.g., fertilizer and pesticide application; IPM); planting for Energy Efficiency; Creating Wildlife Habitat; Growing Your Own Food; and Green Waste Reduction. I'd be very interested to hear what you are doing in your own landscape regarding these types of issues. Any tips or insights you have on what works? Do you have an area that could be photographed to illustrate a concept, e.g., water harvesting, wildlife habitat, etc. This does not mean your entire yard has to look fantastic--a small section or close-up works fine. Please respond to the list, which may help jog ideas from others. I apologize to Master Gardeners who receive a duplicate of this email. Thanks for your input! Cathy Cromell From lagreenhill@earthlink.net Tue Jan 29 19:16:06 2002 From: lagreenhill@earthlink.net (lagreenhill@earthlink.net) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 12:16:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201291916.g0TJG6K17403@Ag.arizona.edu> I have planted several bougainvillea and pyracantha along a block wall to hide the cement. What is the best way to provide support for these plants to be trimmed as close to the wall as possible for the species. I was thinking horizontal guide wires. Looking for some ideas, how to attach and spacing of support structure. Thanks From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Jan 29 21:46:45 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 14:46:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cochineal scale photos References: <412002122916137310@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <3C571845.634920D7@qwest.net> --------------7BC736B14AA30538D5B6C8BC Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Seems to me we tend to get questions about this problem in the August to November timeframe, and a scan of the archives tends to support this. Since the appearance of the white fuzzy material is what I think you might be seeking and this is directly related to the life cycle of this particular scale, you may want to read up on this pest at http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening/news/azdailystar/fuzz_prickly_pear.html http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/insects/cochineal.html Unfortunately, neither calendarizes the life cycle, but this may help get you started. I suppose that ultimately I'm suggesting that you may not have good photo ops this time of year. Linda Guy, MG kencoxphoto@earthlink.net wrote: > Hi,I'm looking for some good examples of Cochineal infestation. I'm > a photographer and I'm hoping to find a good example to photograph for > a publisher. Any recommendations?Thanks,Ken Cox To See Image > Portfolio for Ken Cox Photo click on the string > belowhttp://www.ozimages.com.au/portfolio.asp?MemberID=413e-mail > kencoxphoto@earthlink.net --------------7BC736B14AA30538D5B6C8BC Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Seems to me we tend to get questions about this problem in the August to November timeframe, and a scan of the archives tends to support this. Since the appearance of the white fuzzy material is what I think you might be seeking and this is directly related to the life cycle of this particular scale, you may want to read up  on this pest at
http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening/news/azdailystar/fuzz_prickly_pear.html
http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/insects/cochineal.html

Unfortunately, neither calendarizes the life cycle, but this may help get you started. I suppose that ultimately I'm suggesting that you may not have good photo ops this time of year.

Linda Guy, MG

kencoxphoto@earthlink.net wrote:

 Hi,I'm looking for some good examples of Cochineal infestation.  I'm a photographer and I'm hoping to find a good example to photograph for a publisher.  Any recommendations?Thanks,Ken Cox  To See Image Portfolio for Ken Cox Photo click on the string belowhttp://www.ozimages.com.au/portfolio.asp?MemberID=413e-mail    kencoxphoto@earthlink.net  
--------------7BC736B14AA30538D5B6C8BC-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Jan 29 21:56:49 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 14:56:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ornamental orange vs. Edible References: Message-ID: <3C571AA1.65A26674@qwest.net> I once had a hedge of these sour or ornamental oranges and had been told that they make very good marmalade. [At that time, I was a busy executive and making marmalade did not appear on my 'to-do' lists!] The fruit coloration is typical. For advice on caring for your citrus, review our list of publications on the topic at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Some are available online. Linda Guy, MG Edward & Jackee De Alejandro wrote: > Hi, > > I live on Luke AFB in Glendale. I have a mature orange tree that I have been > told is only for looks. I was told that we can not eat the oranges. Well > call me curious but my husband and I tasted one and they are not that > bad...they could be sweeter. My neighbor also said that she has eaten the > oranges off of this tree. > Someone told me that if the tree has thorns that you can't eat the fruit? Is > this true? Because this trees has what looks like thorns...Anyway, hope > someone can tell me the difference or point me in the right direction to > find out. > Oh yeah, the oranges stayed green all summer and once it cooled off they got > orange, what does that mean? Is that the normal cycle? I have never watered > this tree aside from the water it gets from us watering the lawn in the > summer. Please help! > > Jackee D. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Jan 29 22:58:54 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 15:58:54 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palo Brea Browning References: <200201282242.g0SMgLK24431@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C57292D.93881D99@qwest.net> My palo brea has been the same way for as long as I can remember. I just went outside and, indeed, I can rub off the brown spots which look like light spatterings of paint....as if someone had flicked a thumb through a toothbrush and lightly sprayed some pale brown mist over the bark. I've just assumed it was a part of the tree's natural situation, particularly since it is trimmed up high to walk underneath. I'd wondered if the increased exposure to sun [as opposed to keeping the gracefully arching downward branches intact] didn't promote this. But this is pure speculation As to the loss of leaves, etc., that is the winter life cycle of the palos. Mine is bear now but should be leafing out again soon as the weather warms. I know I didn't answer your question, but hope it helps to know your tree is not alone! I'm going to be looking at other palo breas in the neighborhood to see if the situation exists elsewhere, too. Linda Guy, MG Rasafurian@cs.com wrote: > I'm having a problem with my Palo Brea. During the summer, I noticed some small brown dots at the bottom of the trunk. I paid no attention until my tree started looking pale. By that time, the brown dots had spread up the tree and out along the branches. The tree is yellowish and has lost most of its leaves now, but the branches are still pliable and are not dead. I asked the landscaper who installed the tree about it, and he just told me to rub off the brown stuff. I did, but I'm worried that it's something that might infect the soil. None of my gardening manuals addresses this. Do you know what's going on? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Jan 29 23:28:51 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 18:28:51 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ornamental orange vs. Edible Message-ID: <177.2dc97d0.29888a33@aol.com> --part1_177.2dc97d0.29888a33_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The orange tree you have is no doubt sour orange also called ornamental orange, a very hardy and vigorous tree which is the primary root stock for citrus grown in Arizona because of its resistance to Texas Root Rot. It iis quite acid but is often used for pies, drinks or garnishes. The green to orange color change on the fruit is a normal cycle. Most citrus have thorns, I don't have a clue from where the story about citrus with thorns not being edible. If your citrus is planted in a lawn, the irrigation for the lawn is not adequate for the citrus. Periodic deep watering should be provided for the citrus, a hose allowed to run slowly over night will do the trick. An excellent publication titled Citrus Trees in the Home Garden is available for $1.00 from Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_177.2dc97d0.29888a33_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The orange tree you have is no doubt sour orange also called ornamental orange, a very hardy and vigorous tree which is the primary root stock for citrus grown in Arizona because of its resistance to Texas Root Rot. It iis quite acid but is often used for pies, drinks or garnishes.

The green to orange color change  on the fruit is a normal cycle.

Most citrus have thorns, I don't have a clue from where the story about citrus with thorns not being edible.

If your citrus is planted in a lawn, the irrigation for the lawn is not adequate for the citrus. Periodic deep watering should be provided for the citrus, a hose allowed to run slowly  over night will do the trick.

An excellent publication titled Citrus Trees in the Home Garden is available for $1.00 from  Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_177.2dc97d0.29888a33_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Jan 29 23:27:27 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 18:27:27 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Supporting Pyracantha and Bougainvillea on a block wall Message-ID: <70.16ef589f.298889df@aol.com> --part1_70.16ef589f.298889df_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I've had good luck in supporting both Bougainvillea and Pyracantha on a block wall with screws and anchors. Just be sure that the screws and anchors are heavy enough to provide adequate support five to ten years from now. I have bougainvillea that is 20 feet tall on the side of a block building and pyracantha that is ten feet tall both supported in this manner. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_70.16ef589f.298889df_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I've had good luck in supporting both Bougainvillea and Pyracantha on a  block wall with screws and anchors. Just be sure that the screws and anchors are heavy enough to provide adequate support five to ten years  from now. I have bougainvillea that is 20 feet tall on the side of a block building and pyracantha that is ten feet tall both supported in this manner.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_70.16ef589f.298889df_boundary-- From s2@arcworldwide.com Tue Jan 29 20:13:17 2002 From: s2@arcworldwide.com (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 13:13:17 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] don't open! Message-ID: <3C57025D.39EC218@arcworldwide.com> Hi all It's one of those "I thought it wouldn't happen to me" because I'm SOOO careful... but I THINK I may have just got a virus. If you receive any .bat or .exe attachments from me DO NOT OPEN THEM. My sincerest apologies to all... -- Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. Vice President, Communications & Technology ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org ===================================================== "I became convinced we are here for each other." -- R. Buckminster Fuller From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Jan 30 15:27:27 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 08:27:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Meyers Lemon and Tristeza Message-ID: <3C5810DF.CA382708@qwest.net> I just ran into a UA publication that might be of interest to you in terms of deciding whether or not to put a Meyers in your Florida yard. It's called Are You Harboring a Killer in Your Backyard?, and unfortunately, it isn't online. Buy you could order it from http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/quarterly.html Linda Guy, MG Maricopa County, AZ From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Jan 30 15:37:17 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 08:37:17 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Avocado trees References: <9f.21bc2fd5.2985ea3e@aol.com> Message-ID: <3C58132D.BCF8D409@qwest.net> Most of us have started an avocado planting by suspending the bottom of the pit in water, having inserted several toothpicks around the periphery of the pit. Eventually it takes root [thought I have to confess to a few which rotted]. However, avocados do not come true from seed and are generally grafted for commercial production. Here are some sites for you to review. Yours may not bear fruit, but you may still have a lovely tree. Be careful for frost....very, very sensitive. http://www.desert-tropicals.com/Plants/Lauraceae/Persea_americana.html http://www.findarticles.com/cf_dls/m1216/v200/20468414/p1/article.jhtml http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/extension/homefruit/avocado/avocado2.html Good luck! Linda Guy, MG Maricopa County [Phoenix], Arizona Lonuf4U@aol.com wrote: > How can I grow an avcoda tree from a seed out of the avocado? I took the > seeds and put them in a small pot with potting soil. Was wondering if this is > correct. I am keeping them in the house right now. I live in Southern > California. > Thank you > > Debbie Wyatt From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Jan 30 15:44:05 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 08:44:05 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Transplanting mature shrubs References: <002601c1a845$85a3d140$23880044@tc.ph.cox.net> Message-ID: <3C5814C4.2F1EC640@qwest.net> --------------3CB5C94F4676B9C8BDE4C93D Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In my experience, this is a true challenge as most root balls are pan shaped and extend at least a foot and often more beyond the canopy of the plant. Either get a whole lot of family/friends/day labor to help you dig or recognize you may simply need to replace these plants. I'm not saying it cannot be done, but if I'm particularly fond of a specimen and want it moved, I hire a pro. They have both knowledge and the equipment that most homeowners don't possess. [So far nothing in my yard has warranted that cost, but we are contemplating changing the opening of the garage and the placement of the drive and will certainly then hire someone to save a Texas Ebony that I am very fond of.] Linda Guy, MG Ann Boland wrote: > We are beginning to rework our entire yard. Probably lovely when > built seven years ago, but now shrubs are too big, or too shaded or > just plain unattractive. There are some we would like to transplant. > I checked the MG book, but there is nothing on transplanting mature > shrubs. Any thoughts? I have predominantly bougainvillea, lantana > (both shrub and ground cover form), pineapple guava, Texas ranger. > ThanksAnn Boland > ann@annboland.com > Integrated Learning Solutions, Inc. > 2720 W. Calle Cuero de Vaca > Tucson, AZ 85745 > v - 520-624-9575 > f - 520.624.5436 > mobile - 520-241-4838 --------------3CB5C94F4676B9C8BDE4C93D Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In my experience, this is a true challenge as most root balls are pan shaped and extend at least a foot and often more beyond the canopy of the plant. Either get a whole lot of family/friends/day labor to help you dig or recognize you may simply need to replace these plants. I'm not saying it cannot be done, but if I'm particularly fond of a specimen and want it moved, I hire a pro. They have both knowledge and the equipment that most homeowners don't possess. [So far nothing in my yard has warranted that cost, but we are contemplating changing the opening of the garage and the placement of the drive and will certainly then hire someone to save a Texas Ebony that I am very fond of.]

Linda Guy, MG

Ann Boland wrote:

We are beginning to rework our entire yard.  Probably lovely when built seven years ago, but now shrubs are too big, or too shaded or just plain unattractive.  There are some we would like to transplant.  I checked the MG book, but there is nothing on transplanting mature shrubs.  Any thoughts?  I have predominantly bougainvillea, lantana (both shrub and ground cover form), pineapple guava, Texas ranger.  ThanksAnn Boland
ann@annboland.com
Integrated Learning Solutions, Inc.
2720 W. Calle Cuero de Vaca
Tucson, AZ 85745
v - 520-624-9575
f - 520.624.5436
mobile - 520-241-4838
--------------3CB5C94F4676B9C8BDE4C93D-- From jkandell@twistedclicks.com Wed Jan 30 16:03:13 2002 From: jkandell@twistedclicks.com (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 11:03:13 -0500 Subject: [Arid_gardener] fava trouble Message-ID: <200201301103.AA174719310@twistedclicks.com> My fava plants are starting to have a problem, some leaves yellowing, turning a dark black. Seems to afflict certain branches, from bottom up. jk ________________________________________________________________ Sent via the WebMail system at twistedclicks.com From David W. Reichel" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0117_01C1A974.A6017B60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have asked this question before and did not receive any response so am = trying again. Can you grow pomegranates trees from the fruit and if so = how do you germinate? =20 Thanks David W. Reichel ------=_NextPart_000_0117_01C1A974.A6017B60 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I have asked this question before and did not receive any response = so am=20 trying again.  Can you grow pomegranates trees from the fruit and = if so how=20 do you germinate? 
 
Thanks
David W. Reichel
------=_NextPart_000_0117_01C1A974.A6017B60-- From slkfla@aol.com Wed Jan 30 16:56:40 2002 From: slkfla@aol.com (slkfla@aol.com) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 09:56:40 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201301656.g0UGueK29564@Ag.arizona.edu> hi, I saw an article in family circle magazine about dwarf citrus trees, and can't seem to find them in Florida,the article said California, and the four winds won't send them to fla. I don't understand why? and would like to find someplace I can get them. thanks for any information you can give me. From slkfla@aol.com Wed Jan 30 16:57:31 2002 From: slkfla@aol.com (slkfla@aol.com) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 09:57:31 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201301657.g0UGvVK29823@Ag.arizona.edu> hi, I saw an article in family circle magazine about dwarf citrus trees, and can't seem to find them in Florida,the article said California, and the four winds won't send them to fla. I don't understand why? and would like to find someplace I can get them. thanks for any information you can give me.sheri Keiser From mgdlite37d@aol.com Wed Jan 30 18:14:55 2002 From: mgdlite37d@aol.com (mgdlite37d@aol.com) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 11:14:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201301814.g0UIEtK21879@Ag.arizona.edu> Planted a winter pernial lawn fo the first time. Lawn looks great for only a couple of small spots(approx 1 foot in dia) that are turning yellow. Could it be too much water in this area. My lawn has a little slope to it and water will puddle in this spot. Thanks for your time Sal From sjbass@qwest.net Wed Jan 30 18:19:27 2002 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 11:19:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Growing Pomegranates References: <011a01c1a9af$54671fe0$cf400244@chnd1.az.home.com> Message-ID: <3C58392F.43CB880E@qwest.net> --------------A681BDAA284760ECA3671BD6 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The following link will take you an article on growing pomegranates http://ag.arizona.edu/yavapai/anr/hort/byg/archive/pomegranates.html Sue Bass Master Gardener "David W. Reichel" wrote: > I have asked this question before and did not receive any response so > am trying again. Can you grow pomegranates trees from the fruit and > if so how do you germinate? Thanks > David W. Reichel --------------A681BDAA284760ECA3671BD6 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The following link will take you an article on growing pomegranates
http://ag.arizona.edu/yavapai/anr/hort/byg/archive/pomegranates.html
Sue Bass
Master Gardener

"David W. Reichel" wrote:

I have asked this question before and did not receive any response so am trying again.  Can you grow pomegranates trees from the fruit and if so how do you germinate? Thanks
David W. Reichel
--------------A681BDAA284760ECA3671BD6-- From sjbass@qwest.net Wed Jan 30 18:25:17 2002 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 11:25:17 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Purchasing Dwarf Citrus in Florida References: <200201301656.g0UGueK29564@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C583A8D.C16CBB7B@qwest.net> Check out this link http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/flgard/msg1019341121056.html It is a garden forum where I found questions and answers about purchasing dwarf citrus in Florida. Hope it helps. Sue Bass Master Gardener Gilbert, AZ slkfla@aol.com wrote: > hi, I saw an article in family circle magazine about dwarf citrus trees, and can't seem to find them in Florida,the article said California, and the four winds won't send them to fla. I don't understand why? and would like to find someplace I can get them. thanks for any information you can give me. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Jan 30 23:17:26 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 18:17:26 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pepper Tree with problems Message-ID: <161.7fdaa93.2989d906@aol.com> --part1_161.7fdaa93.2989d906_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The pepper tree is very susceptable to Texas Root Rot and the symptoms you describe point to the fungus TRR. A tree aflicted with Texas Root Rot will usually show a very rapid colapse of part or all of the tree, will often show a fungus on the ground over the root zone, the leaves that wilt will usually hang on to the tree. TRR will usually show its symptoms from mid summer to late fall. For a positive ID dig up one or more roots, finger size and about a foot long. Do not wash and keep as fresh as possible by placing them in a plastic bag and keep in the frig, take to Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for examination, there is no charge for this service. While there pick up a bulletin on Texas Ropot Rot which describes a treatment which sometimes will save the tree, also are listed trees and plants that are immune to TRR as well as resistant species. I'm sorry that you have had trouble with getting an arborist to look at your tree. Should you require the services of an arborist again be sure that the arborist is certified ( their ads in the yellow pages will so state.) The following site will take you to a list of certified arborists: http://www2.champaign.isa-arbor.com/arborists/arborist.html Texas Root Root spreads quite rapidly, and for any treatment to help it is important to start it ASAP. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_161.7fdaa93.2989d906_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The pepper tree is very susceptable to Texas Root Rot and the symptoms you describe point to the fungus TRR. A tree aflicted with Texas Root Rot will usually show a very rapid colapse of part or all of the tree, will often show a fungus on the ground over the root zone, the leaves that wilt will usually hang on to the tree. TRR will usually show its symptoms from mid summer to late fall. For a positive ID dig up one or more roots, finger size and about a foot long. Do not wash and keep as fresh as possible by placing them in a plastic bag  and keep in the frig, take to  Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for examination, there is no charge for this service. While there pick up a bulletin on Texas Ropot Rot which describes a treatment which sometimes will save the tree, also are listed trees and plants that are immune to TRR as well as resistant species.

I'm sorry that you have had trouble with getting an arborist to look at your tree. Should you require the services of an arborist again be sure that the arborist is certified ( their ads in the yellow pages will so state.)  The following site will take you to a list of certified arborists:  http://www2.champaign.isa-arbor.com/arborists/arborist.html

Texas Root Root spreads quite rapidly, and for any treatment to help it is important to start it ASAP.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
--part1_161.7fdaa93.2989d906_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Jan 30 23:17:29 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 18:17:29 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grass yellowing in spots Message-ID: <129.ba29b51.2989d909@aol.com> --part1_129.ba29b51.2989d909_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sal, The low spots that are retaining water will cause the grass to yellow. Over watering will also cause yellowing. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_129.ba29b51.2989d909_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sal,

The low spots that are retaining water will cause the grass to yellow. Over watering will also cause yellowing.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_129.ba29b51.2989d909_boundary-- From dg.anderson@cox.net Thu Jan 31 16:05:25 2002 From: dg.anderson@cox.net (Douglas Anderson) Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 09:05:25 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: <008301c1aa71$183a8800$8ef50344@ph.cox.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0080_01C1AA36.6B87C3A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable please note my new email address dg.anderson@cox.net =20 ------=_NextPart_000_0080_01C1AA36.6B87C3A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
please note my new email = address
 
dg.anderson@cox.net =20
------=_NextPart_000_0080_01C1AA36.6B87C3A0-- From jackee@dealejandro.com Thu Jan 31 22:55:31 2002 From: jackee@dealejandro.com (Jackee De Alejandro) Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 15:55:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] frozen plants Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C1AA6F.B5FC7F00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit HELP!!! The freeze last night got to my cherry tomato plants. They are about three feet tall and did have lots of blooms on them. Now the top leaves are wilted but most of the bottom ones look okay. The freeze also affected a few pepper plants. Leaves wilted again (entire plant)....should I leave them on the plant or cut them off? I am going to cover the plants with some plastic tonight for the additional freeze warning.....do you think that will help? What can I do? Jackee at Luke AFB ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C1AA6F.B5FC7F00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
HELP!!!
 
The = freeze last=20 night got to my cherry tomato plants. They are about three feet tall and = did=20 have lots of blooms on them. Now the top leaves are wilted but most of = the=20 bottom ones look okay. The freeze also affected a few pepper plants. = Leaves=20 wilted again (entire plant)....should I leave them on the plant or cut = them off?=20 I am going to cover the plants with some plastic tonight for the = additional=20 freeze warning.....do you think that will help? What can I=20 do?
 

Jackee at Luke=20 AFB

------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C1AA6F.B5FC7F00-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Jan 31 23:12:55 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 18:12:55 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] frozen plants Message-ID: <10f.b74eb67.298b2977@aol.com> --part1_10f.b74eb67.298b2977_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jackee, Better to cover your plants with fabric such as a sheet, blanket , burlap or even newspaper than to use plastic. Watering your plants will also help. I have used Xmas tree lights to protect citrus trees and other frost sensative plants. If you have several empty milk jugs, fill them with water and place them next to your plants just before you go to bed. If the leaves on your plants have frozen they will turn black in a few days. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_10f.b74eb67.298b2977_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jackee,

Better to cover your plants with fabric such as a sheet, blanket , burlap or even newspaper than to use plastic. Watering your plants will also help. I have used Xmas tree lights to protect citrus trees and other frost sensative plants. If you have several empty milk jugs, fill them with water and place them next to your plants just before you go to bed.

If the leaves on your plants have frozen they will turn black in a few days.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_10f.b74eb67.298b2977_boundary-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Jan 31 23:20:56 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 23:20:56 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] frozen plants Message-ID: Jackee I would not cut the plants back just yet. Do cover your plants tonight with sheets, old towels or frost cloth. Don't use plastic -- it transfers the cold to the plant parts that touch it. Drape the cloth over the plants completely and anchor it to the ground. What you are doing is "capturing" warmer air in an envelope. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Jackee De Alejandro" >To: "arid_gardener@Ag. arizona. edu" >Subject: [Arid_gardener] frozen plants >Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 15:55:31 -0700 > >HELP!!! > >The freeze last night got to my cherry tomato plants. They are about three >feet tall and did have lots of blooms on them. Now the top leaves are >wilted >but most of the bottom ones look okay. The freeze also affected a few >pepper >plants. Leaves wilted again (entire plant)....should I leave them on the >plant or cut them off? I am going to cover the plants with some plastic >tonight for the additional freeze warning.....do you think that will help? >What can I do? > >Jackee at Luke AFB > _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From dealejandro_family@yahoo.com Thu Jan 31 23:58:14 2002 From: dealejandro_family@yahoo.com (Edward & Jackee De Alejandro) Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 16:58:14 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] frozen plants In-Reply-To: Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01C1AA78.793CA6E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Okay got your tips....covered the plants with dark colored flannel sheets which made a sort of tent (the sheets went over the tomato cages)and strung a strand of Icicle lights underneath them. Should I still put out the jugs of water or do you think the lights will be enough heat? What about a second string of lights? I have some cauliflower and roma tomato seedlings purchased from the nursery and I don't want to lose them. Plus my cherry tomatoes JUST started to put out tomatoes!! THANKS!!! so incredibly much for your quick responses!!!! I am new to gardening in AZ but gardened in GA several years back. I would like to ask if anyone has any luck with the heat resistant tomato varieties offered by seed companies. I found one last night at Park that says the plant can take heat up to 100*......anyone tried these? Thanks a bunch! Jackee at Luke AFB -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Jackee De Alejandro Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2002 3:56 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag. arizona. edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] frozen plants HELP!!! The freeze last night got to my cherry tomato plants. They are about three feet tall and did have lots of blooms on them. Now the top leaves are wilted but most of the bottom ones look okay. The freeze also affected a few pepper plants. Leaves wilted again (entire plant)....should I leave them on the plant or cut them off? I am going to cover the plants with some plastic tonight for the additional freeze warning.....do you think that will help? What can I do? Jackee at Luke AFB ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01C1AA78.793CA6E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Okay=20 got your tips....covered the plants with dark colored flannel sheets = which made=20 a sort of tent (the sheets went over the tomato cages)and strung a = strand of=20 Icicle lights underneath them. Should I still put out the jugs of water = or do=20 you think the lights will be enough heat? What about a second string of = lights?=20 I have some cauliflower and roma tomato seedlings purchased from the = nursery and=20 I don't want to lose them. Plus my cherry tomatoes JUST started to put = out=20 tomatoes!!
THANKS!!! so incredibly much for your quick=20 responses!!!! I am new to gardening in AZ but gardened in = GA several years=20 back. 
I=20 would like to ask if anyone has any luck with the heat resistant tomato=20 varieties offered by seed companies. I found one last night at Park that = says=20 the plant can take heat up to 100*......anyone tried = these?
Thanks=20 a bunch!

Jackee at Luke=20 AFB

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From:=20 arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu=20 [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Jackee De = Alejandro
Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2002 3:56 = PM
To:=20 arid_gardener@Ag. arizona. edu
Subject: [Arid_gardener] frozen = plants

HELP!!!
 
The = freeze last=20 night got to my cherry tomato plants. They are about three feet tall and = did=20 have lots of blooms on them. Now the top leaves are wilted but most of = the=20 bottom ones look okay. The freeze also affected a few pepper plants. = Leaves=20 wilted again (entire plant)....should I leave them on the plant or cut = them off?=20 I am going to cover the plants with some plastic tonight for the = additional=20 freeze warning.....do you think that will help? What can I=20 do?
 

Jackee at Luke=20 AFB

------=_NextPart_000_0014_01C1AA78.793CA6E0-- From johnnieking@cableaz.com Sun Jan 13 01:17:25 2002 From: johnnieking@cableaz.com (JOHNNIE KING) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 18:17:25 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: <000501c19bd0$1150dee0$8562a8c0@cableaz.com> From j_harrell@NetZero.net Tue Jan 1 17:41:16 2002 From: j_harrell@NetZero.net (Jackie and Bill Harrell) Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2002 10:41:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Virus from me! Message-ID: <3C31F4BC.672A6A7B@NetZero.net> Dear Everybody, This is Happy New Year and a fine how d'y do - I am so sorry, but Sunday night December 30 I took in a virus, the W32.magistr, and apparently my computer gleefully passed it on to many of you in my address book. Mea culpa, mea culpa! I'm so sorry, but the crazy e-mail and attachments that have gone out are not my intention. This is to alert you to update your anti-virus stuff and to SCAN and get rid of it, if it arrived. I truly hope this will not cause too great an inconvenience! And I do hope the rest of your 2002 is Virus Free! Sincerely, Jackie Harrell ---------------------------------------------------- Sign Up for NetZero Platinum Today Only $9.95 per month! http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97 From jkandell@twistedclicks.com Wed Jan 2 12:25:31 2002 From: jkandell@twistedclicks.com (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 05:25:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] plant tomatoes early or on time? Message-ID: <000801c19388$9ca0be20$90a20404@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C1934D.E5397F40 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Like many of you, I face a really short tomato season March - June, with = not many tomatoes by the time it gets hot, so this year I'm starting = seed a month early. Question: Is it better to plant standard-sized = tomato seedlings (7 weeks) a month early in e.g. wall o waters or = plastic-wrapped cages; or is it better to keep them inside an extra = three or four weeks until the regular planting time? My fear is that = putting them in early, even under plastic, they'll just sit there, = whereas inside they'd continue growing. Then again, I've heard many = warnings about growing seedlings beyond 6-8 weeks. jk ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C1934D.E5397F40 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Like many of you, I face a really short tomato = season=20 March - June, with not many tomatoes by the time it gets hot, so = this year=20 I'm starting seed a month early.  Question: Is it better to plant=20 standard-sized tomato seedlings (7 weeks) a month early in e.g. wall o = waters or=20 plastic-wrapped cages; or is it better to keep them inside an extra = three or=20 four weeks until the regular planting time?  My fear is that = putting them=20 in early, even under plastic, they'll just sit there, whereas inside = they'd=20 continue growing.  Then again, I've heard many warnings about = growing=20 seedlings beyond 6-8 weeks.
 
jk
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C1934D.E5397F40-- From crymer@Ag.arizona.edu Wed Jan 2 17:16:40 2002 From: crymer@Ag.arizona.edu (Cathy Rymer) Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 10:16:40 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Blood Oranges In-Reply-To: <3C2E5D91.ECD06275@home.com> References: <11b.942bcfe.295f859f@aol.com> Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20020102100820.00a8be40@ag.arizona.edu> Hi Alan, Pigmented oranges (blood oranges) are dependent on cool temperatures to produce the red color in the fruit and sometimes the peel. Because of this some varieties produce little or no color in the Salt River Valley. The variety that produces the most consistent dark red internal color here is Salustiana. Taste is a matter of personal preference. Why not make plans to attend the Citrus and Fruit Clinic on Saturday, January 26 in Mesa. This event is held annually by the University of Arizona and has seminars on a variety of topics dealing with citrus and fruit in Arizona. Faculty and staff from the University will present the sessions. The most popular session is the "taste testing" where you can sample fruits of trees you might be considering planting in your yard. Details are available at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/calendar/citrus-e.htm The following Saturday morning the event will be repeated on the west side of town at the University of Arizona Citrus Research Center in Waddell. I hope this helps. Kind regards, Cathy At 05:19 PM 12/29/2001 -0700, GizmoAZ wrote: >Hi, > >I'm wondering if anyone here grows Blood Oranges? I am in >particular interested in the variety "Ruby Blood Orange". I >used my Christmas money and bought a Ruby Blood Orange at >Greenfield Citrus nurseries. When I went there, my intent was >to buy a Moro Blood Orange. I was informed by the staff at >Greenfield that Moro Blood Oranges did not perform as well in >our desert climate as they do on the coast, and the Ruby was >recommended in place of Moro. I was told it gets much redder >than Moro, and produces a much sweeter juice. Anyone care to >elaborate or share their experiences with both Blood Oranges >in general, and the Ruby Blood Orange, if you have that >variety. > >Thanks, >----- >Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 > >http://www.gizmoaz.com >Over 200 Roses and 125 Different varieties! Never a dull >moment!! >Check out the Garden Cams on Saturday and Sunday!! >-- > No matter how fast your PC is, Microsoft will find a way to >slow it down > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Catherine Rymer Instructional Specialist, Sr., Urban Horticulture University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Phoenix, AZ 85040 http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ From crymer@Ag.arizona.edu Wed Jan 2 18:25:56 2002 From: crymer@Ag.arizona.edu (Cathy Rymer) Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 11:25:56 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Virus from me! In-Reply-To: <3C31F4BC.672A6A7B@NetZero.net> Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20020102105848.00a20f00@ag.arizona.edu> Happy New Year!, Jackie Harrell was concerned that a virus may have been send to the arid_gardener list serve from her address book. Not to worry. Each message sent to the arid_gardener list by a non-subscriber, requires approval from one of the list managers before it is posted. The message containing the virus was rejected before it could be sent to the list. This is just one of the measures we take to prevent spam messages and viruses from reaching our subscribers. Its good to know the system is working. Kind regards, Cathy At 10:41 AM 01/01/2002 -0700, Jackie and Bill Harrell wrote: >Dear Everybody, > > This is Happy New Year and a fine how d'y do - I am so sorry, but >Sunday night December 30 I took in a virus, the W32.magistr, and >apparently my computer gleefully passed it on to many of you in my >address book. Mea culpa, mea culpa! I'm so sorry, but the crazy e-mail >and attachments that have gone out are not my intention. > > This is to alert you to update your anti-virus stuff and to SCAN and >get rid of it, if it arrived. I truly hope this will not cause too >great an inconvenience! And I do hope the rest of your 2002 is Virus >Free! Catherine Rymer Instructional Specialist, Sr., Urban Horticulture University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Phoenix, AZ 85040 http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ From bergerond@msn.com Wed Jan 2 18:41:53 2002 From: bergerond@msn.com (bergerond@msn.com) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 11:41:53 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201021841.g02Ifrn07781@Ag.arizona.edu> I know apple trees like to live somewhere other than deserts but it happens to be my favorite fruit (Mackintosh). I'd love to plant the one which might do well in our arid climate and would really appreciate your advice. I live in NW Phoenix area where the soil is a bit gravely and non-irrigated, if that is a factor. Thanks, Diane From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Jan 2 19:16:11 2002 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 12:16:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Apples in NW Phoenix References: <200201021841.g02Ifrn07781@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <008201c193c3$2a25a320$7f50530c@j0r9501> The main problems with growing apples here is the winter chill needed during the dormant period. Chill hours are defined as the number of hours at 45 degrees F and under. McIntosh requires 900 chill hours. We will sometimes get as many as 600 hours but the past few years it has been much less. Low chill varieties sometimes recommended are Anna (200-300 hours), Dorsett Golden (250 hours), and Ein Shemer (350 hours). A pollenizer such as Dorsett Golden is often recommended for Anna. Although these desert-grown apples are botanically classified as apples, if you are particularly fond of McIntosh, Jonathan, Winesap, et al, you would probably be disappointed with Anna which is the only one of the three that is very productive. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: To> I know apple trees like to live somewhere other than deserts but it happens to be my favorite fruit (Mackintosh). I'd love to plant the one which might do well in our arid climate and would really appreciate your advice. I live in NW Phoenix area where the soil is a bit gravely and non-irrigated, if that is a factor. > Thanks, > Diane From dmkerr2@home.com Thu Jan 3 16:14:48 2002 From: dmkerr2@home.com (Kerr Family) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 09:14:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Where did the white flies go? Message-ID: <002301c19471$c4578590$328e0541@cx89858a> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0020_01C19437.17C93920 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable This year, I haven't seen any white flies. They were so numerous in = past years. Anyone know why? ------=_NextPart_000_0020_01C19437.17C93920 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
This year, I haven't seen any white = flies. =20 They were so numerous in past years.  Anyone know=20 why?
------=_NextPart_000_0020_01C19437.17C93920-- From bayers@honors.arizona.edu Thu Jan 3 19:01:52 2002 From: bayers@honors.arizona.edu (Jim Bayers) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 12:01:52 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Chilean Mesquite Pruning Message-ID: I need to prune my Chilean Mesquite. It's it's first year and it's not growning quite the way I had hoped. I thought the leaves would fall off, but so far, they haven't. Is it a good time to prune such a thing? I'm in Tucson. Thanks. From marisadei@yahoo.com Thu Jan 3 21:08:17 2002 From: marisadei@yahoo.com (marisadei@yahoo.com) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 14:08:17 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201032108.g03L8Gn05639@Ag.arizona.edu> how do you propagate a mango plant from seed?I bought mangos this summer, ate the fruit and kept the large pits. do these pits have a chance of becoming plants? From marisadei@yahoo.com Thu Jan 3 21:09:46 2002 From: marisadei@yahoo.com (marisadei@yahoo.com) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 14:09:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201032109.g03L9kn05927@Ag.arizona.edu> how do you propagate a mango plant from seed?I bought mangos this summer, ate the fruit and kept the large pits. do these pits have a chance of becoming plants? sincerely, marisa From kcaudle@lsdaz.com Thu Jan 3 21:10:48 2002 From: kcaudle@lsdaz.com (kcaudle@lsdaz.com) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 14:10:48 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201032110.g03LAmn06186@Ag.arizona.edu> Where to go to purchase dwarf peach tree and best variety, also dwarf lime tree and best variety. Thank you From marisadei@yahoo.com Thu Jan 3 21:15:35 2002 From: marisadei@yahoo.com (marisadei@yahoo.com) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 14:15:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201032115.g03LFZn06962@Ag.arizona.edu> how do you propagate mangos from seed? i bought mangos this summer, ate the fruit and kept the large pits. do these pits have a chance of becoming plants again? sincerely marisa d.i. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Jan 3 21:51:26 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 16:51:26 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Chilean Mesquite Pruning Message-ID: <4c.4621529.29662c5e@aol.com> --part1_4c.4621529.29662c5e_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Desert adapted trees are bettered pruned during the summer or when it is much warmer than it is in January. Leaf drop on the Chilean Mesquite usually happens after freezing or near freezing weather. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_4c.4621529.29662c5e_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Desert adapted trees are bettered pruned during the summer or when it is much warmer than it is in January. Leaf drop on the Chilean Mesquite usually happens after freezing or near freezing weather.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_4c.4621529.29662c5e_boundary-- From kelleejb@yahoo.com Thu Jan 3 22:09:57 2002 From: kelleejb@yahoo.com (kelleejb@yahoo.com) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 15:09:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201032209.g03M9vn17229@Ag.arizona.edu> Hi, I have approximately 150 glad bulbs that are all different colors. Last year all of the flowers came up the same color. The flowers themselves were white with a deep purple in the middle of them. I do know that I have atleast 5 of these same colored ones. I plant them in groups of 5. I leave them in the ground all yr and usually in Jan to Feb I rake about an 1 or 1 1/2 inches of dirt out and sprinkle bone meal and then cover them back up with a mixture of 50% dirt and 50% potting soil. After they come up and are about 6 inches tall I will feed them Miracle Grow. What do I need to do to make sure that they all come up this year being the color that they are suppose to? I also water them probably about every other day once it heats up more. Thank you. Kellee From mgdlite37d@aol.com Thu Jan 3 23:17:28 2002 From: mgdlite37d@aol.com (mgdlite37d@aol.com) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 16:17:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201032317.g03NHSn00648@Ag.arizona.edu> Hi folks, Might be having a problem with my mesquite tree of 7 years old. Live at Tatum & Dynimite N. Phoenix. Landscapers originally planted a 15 Gal mesquite in my front yard (facing west) with a dripline with a 2gal emiter. The tree grew fast quick and large, and the watering schedule during summer set at 4 days a week. I finally I cut the water off about 2 years ago with a spread of about 25 foot in diameter and about 35 high. The problem I'm having for the past 2 years is in winter it drops clean all of its leaves then comes back beautiful in the spring and through the summer. Others (mesquite trees) in my area seem not to drop leaves like mine of the same spcies and size. Is it the watering that I shut down the problem??????. Thanks Sal From umiller@azdps.com Thu Jan 3 21:55:51 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 14:55:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Chilean Mesquite Dropping Leaves In-Reply-To: <200201032317.g03NHSn00648@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Sal - Mesquites drop their leaves in winter so that's normal. Mine tends to do it later; it hasn't started dropping any yet. But within a month it'll be raining those green/yellow little leaves. So, not to worry, it's just nature doing it's annual housecleaning. I don't know about the other mesquites in your neighborhood. All the ones in my neighborhood drop their leaflets. Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of mgdlite37d@aol.com Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 4:17 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hi folks, Might be having a problem with my mesquite tree of 7 years old. Live at Tatum & Dynimite N. Phoenix. Landscapers originally planted a 15 Gal mesquite in my front yard (facing west) with a dripline with a 2gal emiter. The tree grew fast quick and large, and the watering schedule during summer set at 4 days a week. I finally I cut the water off about 2 years ago with a spread of about 25 foot in diameter and about 35 high. The problem I'm having for the past 2 years is in winter it drops clean all of its leaves then comes back beautiful in the spring and through the summer. Others (mesquite trees) in my area seem not to drop leaves like mine of the same spcies and size. Is it the watering that I shut down the problem??????. Thanks Sal _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From tamhankins@aol.com Fri Jan 4 03:59:38 2002 From: tamhankins@aol.com (tamhankins@aol.com) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 20:59:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201040359.g043xcn05585@Ag.arizona.edu> My question concerns tomatillos. What type of tomatillo does best in the Phoenix area? My 2000 season plants had lots of fruits, a friend of mine gave me those seeds. Then in 2001 I bought some seeds from Burpee that had alot of flowers but absoltly no ftuit.I have since thrown those seeds away. Can someone help me. Thank you, Chris From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri Jan 4 04:23:29 2002 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 21:23:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Where did the white flies go? References: <002301c19471$c4578590$328e0541@cx89858a> Message-ID: <010201c194d9$add64780$2f50530c@j0r9501> Probably better control in the melon fields and cotton fields in the valley. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kerr Family" To: Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 9:14 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Where did the white flies go? This year, I haven't seen any white flies. They were so numerous in past years. Anyone know why? From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri Jan 4 04:49:00 2002 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 21:49:00 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: plant tomatoes early or on time? References: <001001c1946e$e0f74760$bca20404@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <000501c194db$22762000$2f50530c@j0r9501> In the Phoenix area tomatoes will grow just fine under plastic during the winter months but somewhat slower than in the spring out in the open because of less light during the short winter days. If you can plant one gallon sized tomatoes before blooming about Feb 1 you have a better chance of getting a good yield with mid season indeterminate types. But with short season determinate bushes, one may as well wait to plant out until the end of Feb when freeze protection is usually not required. The Phoenix area is in the low desert at about 1092 feet in USDA Cold Hardiness Zone 9b, Sunset Zone 13, and AZ Plant Climate Zone 5 (according to http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1169.pdf ). At 2584 feet, USDA Zone 8, Sunset 12, and AZ Plant Climate Zone 4, Tucson could be considered mid desert. Note that these climate and hardiness zones all use different criteria to define the zones but all still place Phoenix and Phoenix in different zones. It seems one could achieve similar results in Tucson by planting about 3 weeks later but, given Tucson's December 2001 average low of 31 deg (according to the AZMET site) and the 22 deg recorded on Dec 26, I would hesitate to make any recommendation for Tucson. Should note that at our NW Phoenix location, winter lows are typically 5 deg cooler than the official airport lows but highs are about the same. And the temps in the garden amongst all the vegetation is still different from that at our backyard thermometer location. So I would tend to use the published zone designation as a guide, not as an absolute Why not experiment and try it both ways? Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: Jonathan Kandell To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 5:25 AM Subject: plant tomatoes early or on time? >Like many of you, I face a really short tomato season March - June, with >not many tomatoes by the time it gets hot, so this year I'm starting >seed a month early. Question: Is it better to plant standard-sized >tomato seedlings (7 weeks) a month early in e.g. wall o waters or >plastic-wrapped cages; or is it better to keep them inside an extra >three or four weeks until the regular planting time? My fear is that >putting them in early, even under plastic, they'll just sit there, >whereas inside they'd continue growing. Then again, I've heard many >warnings about growing seedlings beyond 6-8 weeks. From gretchendell@home.com Fri Jan 4 14:48:03 2002 From: gretchendell@home.com (gretchendell@home.com) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 07:48:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201041448.g04Em3n03665@Ag.arizona.edu> 2 questions- 1)I have a cala lilly that has survived for 2 years in a somewhat shady location, however it has not bloomed. What type of fertilizer should I provide, how often? 2)I am looking for suggestions for landscape plants in a difficult area of a side yard. The area is South facing, against the house and at the bottom of a slope. There is turf grass on the slope area, therefore the area in questions is very wet from run-off. From kimlincoln@aol.com Fri Jan 4 16:11:58 2002 From: kimlincoln@aol.com (kimlincoln@aol.com) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 09:11:58 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201041611.g04GBwn19376@Ag.arizona.edu> What is the best type of eating orange tree to plant? I live in North Phoenix. I've heard Valentia, Arizona Sweets, and even Navel. What is an "Arizona Sweets" orange? And I've read that there are several varieties. Please recommend an awesome orange tree for a first time grower of citrus. Thank you. Kim Lincoln From donbeets@msn.com Fri Jan 4 19:10:59 2002 From: donbeets@msn.com (donbeets@msn.com) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 12:10:59 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201041910.g04JAxn24657@Ag.arizona.edu> The tree in our front yard is supposed to be an evergreen elm.Since being planted,the top half has lost it's foliage and looks as if the tree is dying.Is this normal for this type tree.if not what can be done to correct this condition.any soggestions welcomed From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Jan 4 19:38:03 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 19:38:03 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] citrus varieties Message-ID: For a list of recommended citrus varieties, check http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/ If you can, attend one of the citrus tasting days coming up. Information is available at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ Here is an earlier answer in the archives from Dawn Kazmer: The Cooperative Extension has a bulletin called Citrus Varieties for our area that lists and comments of varieous citrus. In January, they held a tasting session at the Fruit Field Day. Personally, I have Triveta (ripens January), and Valencia (ripens March) oranges, pink grapefruit, very seedy unknown orange that drops fruit early and is going to be removed when Triveta and Valencia get bigger, Minneola Tangelo (ripens January but hangs on at least through now)....still testing and Kinnow tangerine (ripens January but hangs on at least through now)....still testing, Lisbon lemon and Bears lime. This is probably too much citrus when they mature because the one grapefruit is mature and certainly enough for 3 families. They are very green trees that give almost no trouble and I love them. I have tried to plant dwarf trees and, it appears that the Kinnow and Bear's lime actually are going to be dwarf................. I chose Flying Dragon root stock for the two oranges and expect that they will also actually be dwarf. My plan is to keep the others as compact as possible without distorting their natural shapes. Grapefruit is the easiest citrus to grow near Phoenix. The Kinnow has more seeds than the Minneola and my vote would be for the Minneola and Grapefruit but Trevita is very popular with many people who have only two trees. My Trevita is less than one year in the ground and I can not speak of it from experience. >From: kimlincoln@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 09:11:58 -0700 (MST) > >What is the best type of eating orange tree to plant? I live in North >Phoenix. I've heard Valentia, Arizona Sweets, and even Navel. What is an >"Arizona Sweets" orange? And I've read that there are several varieties. >Please recommend an awesome orange tree for a first time grower of citrus. >Thank you. Kim Lincoln > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Jan 4 21:23:03 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 14:23:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruing Mesquite References: <200112281845.fBSIjEn10450@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C361D36.25C90AC4@qwest.net> A good reference is Eric Johnson's Pruning Planting & Care. His focus is on plants that grow in the desert southwest. Check the library or local book store In the meantime the MG Manual has general guidance at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/pruning/index.html Removing larger limbs for tree shaping is best done Feb/Mar to minimize sap ooze. Thereafter, pruning is done in the hotter season to maintain what can become excessive vegetative growth. The biggest culprit is more water than the tree needs, so go easy on the agua and minimize a sweaty summertime chore! It saves the landfills too. Linda Guy, MG houseofblue@yahoo.com wrote: > Can you send me instructions on how to prune a chilean mesquite? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Jan 4 21:27:12 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 14:27:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lawn for Shade References: <000c01c1900c$453e4280$9cd256d1@0019687347> Message-ID: <3C361E2F.E7D0F426@qwest.net> --------------005E4BC0B11F060F5D1C9D1D Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bermuda won't handle the shade. There are a number of replies that you can access in the archives section of our website and here is one of them to get you started. http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2001-March/006811.html Linda Guy, MG roger vail wrote: > Hi Linda, I know we just entered the winter season but > Spring in our area is just around the corner..My question is last > summer my Bermuda came in very sparingly.As you may have guessed my > backyard is about 75% shade now.I need some ideas on what type of > shade grass is used for the summer if any.The area needed to cover is > about 1000 square feet..Any suggestions would be greatly > appreciated....I don't want to go another summer with most of the yard > being > dirt. > Thank > You > Susan --------------005E4BC0B11F060F5D1C9D1D Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bermuda won't handle the shade. There are a number of replies that you can access in the archives section of our website and here is one of them to get you started.
http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2001-March/006811.html

Linda Guy, MG
 

roger vail wrote:

Hi Linda,            I know we just entered the winter season but Spring in our area is just around the corner..My question is last summer my Bermuda came in very sparingly.As you may have guessed my backyard is about 75% shade now.I need some ideas on what type of shade grass is used for the summer if any.The area needed to cover is about 1000 square feet..Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated....I don't want to go another summer with most of the yard being dirt.                                                                                                                                       Thank You                                                                                                                                            Susan
--------------005E4BC0B11F060F5D1C9D1D-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Jan 4 21:31:10 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 14:31:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Spacing Dwarf Nandina Plants References: <5.1.0.14.2.20011229120902.009f47c0@pop3.norton.antivirus> Message-ID: <3C361F1D.343AF379@qwest.net> Your best bet would have been to seek the information from your nursery staff, whom I'd still suggest that you call. Regular nandina can be 3-4' wide; there are numerous dwarf varieties, each with a slightly different span. If you have the name, you can check out the latest Sunset Western Garden book for the estimated dimensions. Linda Guy, MG Signa wrote: > I'd like to replace an irregularly shaped bed of iris in full sun (Tucson > street side yard) with a grouping of Dwarf Nandina. I've been looking > every winter for several years to find some that develop the lovely rich > red winter color and finally found some today in a local nursery. I want > them to form, when mature, an informal grouping of separated and distinct > (from one another) low "mounds" rather than a massed planting where they > all run into one another. How far apart do I want to space them to get the > effect I'm after? I.e., how wide should I expect each individual bush to > spread? > > Signa > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Jan 4 21:32:00 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 16:32:00 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Evergreen Elm (Ulmus parvifolia) Message-ID: <47.160420be.29677950@aol.com> --part1_47.160420be.29677950_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The Evergreen Elm is cold deciduous which means that when temperatures are near freezing the tree will drop its leaves. Here in the low desert (Phoenix area) it almost always happens. It is important that the Evergreen Elm be deep watered periodically to help flush the salts out of the root zone as the tree appears to be quite salt sensitive. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_47.160420be.29677950_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The Evergreen Elm is cold deciduous which means that when temperatures are near freezing the tree will drop its leaves. Here in the low desert (Phoenix area) it almost always happens.
It is important that the Evergreen Elm be deep watered periodically to help flush the salts out of the root zone as the tree appears to be quite salt sensitive.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_47.160420be.29677950_boundary-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Jan 4 21:34:16 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 14:34:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sago Palm... References: <000801c19184$66c0b360$e3a8ea18@lvcablemodem.com> Message-ID: <3C361FD7.E39DA4BF@qwest.net> --------------94FB2067FBFE62B232992ACB Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sago palms do not like direct sunlight and if this is where you have placed it, you risk losing the plant. Some have been known to take moderate morning light, and during the adjustment period, the older leaves may curl up and brown while the newer ones will prove a bit sturdier. Check out other care practices in our palm publication at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf Linda Guy, MG fotoman wrote: > Hi Linda, If you are still offering advice by email...I need help. My > Sago Palm is rather mature but recently transplanted into my garden. > It's leaves are beginning to curl. Is this an indication of too much > water, not enough water, or something else? Thanks for any assistance > you could provide! Evan PowellLas Vegas, NV --------------94FB2067FBFE62B232992ACB Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sago palms do not like direct sunlight and if this is where you have placed it, you risk losing the plant. Some have been known to take moderate morning light, and during the adjustment period, the older leaves may curl up and brown while the newer ones will prove a bit sturdier.

Check out other care practices in our palm publication at  http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf

Linda Guy, MG

fotoman wrote:

 Hi Linda, If you are still offering advice by email...I need help. My Sago Palm is rather mature but recently transplanted into my garden. It's leaves are beginning to curl. Is this an indication of too much water, not enough water, or something else? Thanks for any assistance you could provide! Evan PowellLas Vegas, NV
--------------94FB2067FBFE62B232992ACB-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Jan 4 21:37:12 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 14:37:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite Leaf Drop References: <200201032317.g03NHSn00648@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C362088.76CC21DA@qwest.net> It could be that these are different mesquites, but it could also be the microclimate that each find themselves in. My desert tress in the south yard in full winter sun hold leaves much longer and don't seem to do a 100% drop. Those on the north side of the house in a few months of winter shade generally drop before Christmas, if the weather is cool. Linda Guy, MG mgdlite37d@aol.com wrote: > Hi folks, > > Might be having a problem with my mesquite tree of 7 years old. Live at Tatum & Dynimite N. Phoenix. Landscapers originally planted a 15 Gal mesquite in my front yard (facing west) with a dripline with a 2gal emiter. The tree grew fast quick and large, and the watering schedule during summer set at 4 days a week. I finally I cut the water off about 2 years ago with a spread of about 25 foot in diameter and about 35 high. > > The problem I'm having for the past 2 years is in winter it drops clean all of its leaves then comes back beautiful in the spring and through the summer. Others (mesquite trees) in my area seem not to drop leaves like mine of the same spcies and size. Is it the watering that I shut down the problem??????. > > Thanks Sal > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Jan 4 22:02:33 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 15:02:33 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mangos References: <200201032108.g03L8Gn05639@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C362679.68F94EAE@qwest.net> If you do not receive a reply from any other members of the arid_gardener server, why don't you try the local chapter of the California Rare Fruit Growers at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/clubs.htm Good luck! Linda Guy, MG marisadei@yahoo.com wrote: > how do you propagate a mango plant from seed?I bought mangos this summer, ate the fruit and kept the large pits. do these pits have a chance of becoming plants? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Jan 4 22:05:34 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 15:05:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rabbit Control References: <200112240256.fBO2udn06775@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C36272E.99F27CD3@qwest.net> This question has been considered from time to time on this list server. May I suggest you search the archives of previous answers at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/question.htm To get you started here is one recent reply http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-June/004443.html Linda Guy, MG gwjinaz@aol.com wrote: > need infor on preventing damage from rabbits and a list of plants that rabbits stay away from and list of plants that they love Have heard of chemical Repel and moth balls but have not tried them thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From dmkerr2@home.com Fri Jan 4 22:58:28 2002 From: dmkerr2@home.com (Kerr Family) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 15:58:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Try planting tomatos early Message-ID: <002101c19573$532bed90$328e0541@cx89858a> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01C19538.A67D9600 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have had some great tomato crops planting them early. I am too cheap = to use wall-o-waters. Instead I use four one gallon milk or pool = chemical jugs arranged in a cross around the plant. Cover from 6 to 8 = am on really cold mornings. The plants grow very slowly, but are = putting out roots early in the season. They can grow huge vines, but = the flowers don't work until it gets warm. But when it does and a large = vigorous plant supports them, you won't know what to do with all the = tomatos. I had to resort to drying them and leaving bags with my = neighbors and friends at work. ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01C19538.A67D9600 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I have had some great tomato crops = planting them=20 early.  I am too cheap to use wall-o-waters.  Instead I use = four one=20 gallon milk or pool chemical jugs arranged in a cross around the = plant. =20 Cover from 6 to 8 am on really cold mornings.  The plants grow very = slowly,=20 but are putting out roots early in the season.  They can grow huge = vines,=20 but the flowers don't work until it gets warm.  But when it does = and a=20 large vigorous plant supports them, you won't know what to do with all = the=20 tomatos.  I had to resort to drying them and leaving bags with my = neighbors=20 and friends at work.
------=_NextPart_000_001E_01C19538.A67D9600-- From kcaudle@lsdaz.com Fri Jan 4 23:32:42 2002 From: kcaudle@lsdaz.com (Kathleen Caudle) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 16:32:42 -0700 Subject: FW: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: From: Kathleen Caudle [mailto:kcaudle@lsdaz.com] Sent: Friday, January 04, 2002 4:16 PM To: 'Mark Mittelstaedt' Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Thank you for your advice, I guess I should have prefaced my question with my experience being a master gardener in the past and landscape designer. I am just not sure and actually have not seen dwarf deciduous trees at any of the nurseries I have been to in the past, Bakers, Whitfil, tiptop(no longer) or the ones in mesa?? Anyway if you have any ideas let me know. Thanks Kathleen A. Tucker Senior Landscape Designer Logan Simpson Design 480.967.1343 x.160 kcaudle@lsdaz.com -----Original Message----- From: Mark Mittelstaedt [mailto:mmittelstaedt@earthlink.net] Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 8:58 PM To: Kathleen Caudle Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Where to go is not as important as selecting a tree that has a good shape. Even dwarf varieties can look good. I have a Mexican lime that I like a lot better than Bearss lime trees I have had. It won't get much more than 10 feet tall. Some of these are pretty tiny. Pick the citrus you like, then look at lots of nurseries until you find ones whose shape you like. It is almost impossible to correct a really bad shape with pruning. Spend a few more bucks, or time on the phone interrogating nursery personnel, and get nice ones when you find them - It'll be worth it over the years. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 2:10 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Where to go to purchase dwarf peach tree and best variety, also dwarf lime tree and best variety. > > Thank you > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Sat Jan 5 01:57:45 2002 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 18:57:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Locating dwarf lime tree References: Message-ID: <3C365D99.7C3612B9@qwest.net> Kathleen: Have you tried calling Greenfield Citrus Nursery? If they do not have what you want, perhaps they can direct you to someone who does? Their phone number is 480-830-8000. Not sure about the dwarf peach. Sue Bass Kathleen Caudle wrote: > From: Kathleen Caudle [mailto:kcaudle@lsdaz.com] > Sent: Friday, January 04, 2002 4:16 PM > To: 'Mark Mittelstaedt' > Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > Thank you for your advice, I guess I should have prefaced my question with > my experience being a master gardener in the past and landscape designer. I > am just not sure and actually have not seen dwarf deciduous trees at any of > the nurseries I have been to in the past, Bakers, Whitfil, tiptop(no longer) > or the ones in mesa?? Anyway if you have any ideas let me know. > Thanks > Kathleen A. Tucker > Senior Landscape Designer > Logan Simpson Design > 480.967.1343 x.160 > kcaudle@lsdaz.com > From millero@worldnet.att.net Sat Jan 5 04:48:55 2002 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 21:48:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Try planting tomatos early Message-ID: <002e01c195a4$6881d980$dc50530c@j0r9501> Very Interesting. Questions: When do you start the seed? When do you set out in garden? How big when set out? Any particular varieties? Olin Original Message From Kerr Family dmkerr2@home.com Fri, 4 Jan 2002 15:58:28 -0700 >... >I have had some great tomato crops planting them early. ... >I use four one gallon milk or pool chemical jugs arranged in a cross > around the plant. Cover from 6 to 8 am on really cold mornings. >The plants grow very slowly, but are putting out roots early in the >season. They can grow huge vines, but the flowers don't work until >it gets warm. But when it does and a large vigorous plant supports >them, you won't know what to do with all the tomatos. I had to resort >to drying them and leaving bags with my neighbors and friends at work. From valpogrl@aol.com Sat Jan 5 16:34:10 2002 From: valpogrl@aol.com (valpogrl@aol.com) Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 09:34:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201051634.g05GYAn09396@Ag.arizona.edu> Olin, I saw your questions on the tomatoes, I'm awaiting the answers too. Just thought I'd let you know what works for me (at least as far as winter tomatoes go). I plant the winter tomatoes in the large black plastic pots from the nursery (the bigger the pot the better). Then when it gets to be chilly out I move the pots by our swimming pool. The water from the pool seems to keep them warm enough although in very cold years I have strung the little twinkly xmas lights in the cages. This year I have not, nor have I covered them at night.I live in NW Phoenix and it does get cold here. The plants are still blooming and even setting fruit! Almost daily I pick ripe tomatoes. I generally use cherry or small short season varieties for winter and start my seeds in September or October. For my spring tomatoes I start them right at Christmas time. Cindy From brdando@home.com Sat Jan 5 19:14:24 2002 From: brdando@home.com (brdando@home.com) Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 12:14:24 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201051914.g05JEOn23141@Ag.arizona.edu> Hello, How much room is needed to plant a queen palm in the ground (as opposed to in a planter)? Thanks! From kschwart@Ag.arizona.edu Sat Jan 5 20:18:09 2002 From: kschwart@Ag.arizona.edu (Kerry Schwartz) Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2002 13:18:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Water Education Position in Maricopa County, AZ: Please share with anyone who might be interested! Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020105131358.01efc110@ag.arizona.edu> Environmental Educators, The University of Arizona is hiring an Instructional Specialist, Senior to be housed in Maricopa County. Please find the job announcement at http://www.hr.arizona.edu/23002xacxoutx.htm. The job number is 23002 and should be put on your cover letter and resume. The Job Application form can be found at http://www.hr.arizona.edu/jobvacan.htm. Kerry Schwartz Project WET Coordinator Water Resources Research Center The University of Arizona 350 N. Campbell Ave. Tucson, AZ 85719 voice: 520-792-9591 x22 fax: 520-792-8518 From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Jan 5 21:23:33 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 16:23:33 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palm size Message-ID: <13c.747ea9f.2968c8d5@aol.com> --part1_13c.747ea9f.2968c8d5_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The mature height of a Queen Palm here in the desert can be 30 to 40 feet and its crown width 20 to 30 feet. The mature size should be considered when planting. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_13c.747ea9f.2968c8d5_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The mature height of a Queen Palm here in the desert can be 30 to 40 feet and its crown width 20 to 30 feet. The mature size should be considered when planting.

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_13c.747ea9f.2968c8d5_boundary-- From crazgnat@hotmail.com Sat Jan 5 21:27:55 2002 From: crazgnat@hotmail.com (Natalie Nicklett) Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2002 21:27:55 Subject: [Arid_gardener] new in town Message-ID:
Hello, my name is Natalie, and I have recently moved to Tucson from Olympia, Washington.  I am passionate about local food systems, community, herbal medicinals, gardening, and cooking.  I am looking for work.  I have a degree in Ecological Agriculture from The Evergreen State College in Olympia, Washington, and much experience doing community organizing, teaching, gardening, event publicity, plant medicine making, and value added food product development and marketing.  I would appreciate it greatly if you could let me know of any job openings that you know about in the city have that would relate to my experience and interests.
Thank you,
Natalie Nicklett
(520)406-0356


Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: Click Here
From ddifran@worldnet.att.net Sat Jan 5 21:39:57 2002 From: ddifran@worldnet.att.net (ddifran@worldnet.att.net) Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 14:39:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201052139.g05Ldvn05027@Ag.arizona.edu> I believe that I am having a problem with the trees and plants in our yard due to a over or under watering condition. The landscape is relatively new in the frontyard (put in June 2001) and the backyard has only been in since Mid December. We have a Palo Verde and an Acacia tree in the frontyard. The Palo Verde seems to be doing okay while the Acacia is has dropped nearly all of its leaves over the past 2 weeks. In the back what I believe are Texas Sage are also dropping leaves (these are new plantings). The irrigation contoller was set for 30 minutes every morning and 5 minutes in the afternoon. I certainly believe that this was far too much watering so I reduced it to 5 minutes every other morning and 5 minutes every other afternoon. Our landscaper I believe set this so high because of the newly planted grass in the yard. During this time of year what would you recommend for an adequate watering schedule and did I do the right thing by reducing the watering times to 5 min am/5 min pm every other day? Thank you in advance for all of your help. From gardenguru" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0095_01C1967F.E850B1A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Test msg ------=_NextPart_000_0095_01C1967F.E850B1A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Test msg
------=_NextPart_000_0095_01C1967F.E850B1A0-- From gardenguru@peoplepc.com Sun Jan 6 14:00:37 2002 From: gardenguru@peoplepc.com (gardenguru@peoplepc.com) Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 07:00:37 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201061400.g06E0bn19481@Ag.arizona.edu> Test msg From RkBetu@aol.com Sun Jan 6 16:22:57 2002 From: RkBetu@aol.com (RkBetu@aol.com) Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 11:22:57 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] transplanting old rose Message-ID: I have a peace rose about 16 years old. For more than 10 years I never pruned it and it would become so loaded with blooms I'd have to tie it up (it was over 7' tall and nearly as wide). Several years ago, it began to shoot new branches that were a different rose (root stock?), a deep red, single petal. It was beautiful and looked like 2 different plants. I did find that the "old" red stock was highly suseptible to powdery mildew and started pruning them out. For a few years now, the bush is declining. Over 2 years time, I pruned it back to about 3' high, but it has never done well since. Due to other changes, it does not get as much sun. Leaves are smaller, few blooms, little real growth. I hate to give up on it and am wondering if it can be transplanted. How should I go about doing this? And what about the different rose showing up (it gets more and more of this "old type" branches each year)? Thank you for all your wonderful advice. Rocki, west of Sun City West From jdoddridge1@home.com Sun Jan 6 16:46:01 2002 From: jdoddridge1@home.com (jdoddridge1@home.com) Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 09:46:01 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201061646.g06Gk1n29327@Ag.arizona.edu> Could you please help me find out what kind of plant this is: It is a small bulb about the size of a pea or lima bean. The leaves are about 2 to 8 inches long, very thin and flat. The flower is white, with 6 petals, sort of flat and simple. It blooms in the fall in Phoenix and stays green year round. The bulbs clump together and form about a 8 inch diameter base with willowy, grasslike leaves. It seems to follow the sun and is planted in partial afternoon sun. The only place I have seen it is at work, in a gravel setting. If you can't tell me what it is from the description, I may be able to get a picture of it and email it to you. Thanks John Doddridge From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun Jan 6 17:30:50 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 10:30:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plant ID References: <200201061646.g06Gk1n29327@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C3889CA.5CED72BE@qwest.net> Might it be a type of rain lily [zephyranthes] which come in a multitude of colors? Some need partial shade and others are full sun. http://www.elandscape.com/lvl/lvl.html?pid=zepcan http://www.elandscape.com/lvl/lvl.html?pid=zepgra A simliar bulb is habranthus, which also comes in alot of colors. One's flower is erect [zephranthes] while the other is at right angles to the stem. Different varieties of each bloom at various times of spring through fall. Check out both at http://www.yuccado.com/ Of course, if these are small, are you perhaps looking at fall blooming crocus? Linda Guy, MG jdoddridge1@home.com wrote: > Could you please help me find out what kind of plant this is: > > It is a small bulb about the size of a pea or lima bean. The leaves are about 2 to 8 inches long, very thin and flat. The flower is white, with 6 petals, sort of flat and simple. It blooms in the fall in Phoenix and stays green year round. The bulbs clump together and form about a 8 inch diameter base with willowy, grasslike leaves. It seems to follow the sun and is planted in partial afternoon sun. > > The only place I have seen it is at work, in a gravel setting. If you can't tell me what it is from the description, I may be able to get a picture of it and email it to you. > > Thanks > > John Doddridge > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Jan 6 20:43:43 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 15:43:43 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] transplanting old rose Message-ID: <156.6d63fba.296a10ff@aol.com> --part1_156.6d63fba.296a10ff_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Rocki, The growth you are seeing on your Peace rose is the root stock, Dr Huey which is a single blooming climbing rose which dates back to 1914. Dr Huey is probably the most common root stock used on roses sold in the southwest. Because of its vigor it has probably nearly taken over your peace rose. One way to help prevent this from happening is to prune off new shoots as close to the root stock as possible as soon as they are seen growing. Lack of adequate sun and regular annual pruning plus old age contributes to the decline of your rose. Transplanting will often help to rejuvenate a declining rose bush. I would suggest that you cut the bush back to about 18 inches tall, have the new hole dug, and take up as much soil as you can handle with the bush and immediately plant in the new hole. I'm enclosing a copy of an article that I had published in the Republic recently on planting bare root roses. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian December and January is an exciting time of year for rose lovers, second only to the spring and fall blooming time. The nurseries will be receiving their new stock of roses in mid December, and we rosarians all look forward with anticipation the new rose varieties. For the best selection of varieties don't delay. If you wait until late January you may have trouble finding that favorite rose. You have three options as to where to buy roses: 1. Nurseries, 2. Mail order, 3. Discounters. There is also the option of buying either bare root or potted. My preference is to buy bare root from a nursery that stores the roses in a sawdust bin. The roots of roses stored in a sawdust bin can be examined, and if you don't like the appearance of the roots you don't have to buy. With a packaged rose you don't have that option. After the middle of February my preference is to buy potted roses because they have already started the rooting process, and the chances of survival are much better. If you are unable to find the variety wanted locally, then your only option is mail order.If the mail order option is used, again be sure and order early, not only for the best selection, but you won't want bare root roses shipped to the Phoenix area in March. It's time to plant.Dig the hole a month before you plant if possible, replace the soil with amendments and soak well. Do not put fertilizer in the planting hole at this time. Most rose books recommend a planting hole of at least 18 x 18 inches. My recommendation is to make the planting hole 30 x 30 inches, and especially if the soil is dense clay as is found in most of Maricopa county. If you have much caliche your options are to either dig out the caliche or to build raised beds. It's now planting time. Soak the bare root roses over night in water;dig out some of the planting mix, form a cone,spread the rose roots on the cone with the bud graft 2 inches above grade, backfill and water in well. To keep the canes from drying out mound up either the planting mix or mulch around the canes. January is the time to prune roses for those of you who already have them in your garden. Basically cut your hybred teas, florabundas, and minatures back from 1/3 to 1/2 depending on the size; cut out the dead wood, and strip off all the leaves and clean up around the bush. It is always helpful to attend one of the pruning demonstrations held in public rose gardens by most of the rose societies in the valley. Watch the Saturday newspapers home section for time and place. Have problems with roses or have questions to be answered, call the Master Gardner hot line or talk to one of the many Master Gardner Consulting Rosarians. Rod McKusick, Master Gardner and Consulting Rosarian --part1_156.6d63fba.296a10ff_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Rocki,

The growth  you are seeing on your Peace rose is the root stock, Dr Huey which is a single blooming climbing rose which dates back to 1914. Dr Huey is probably the most common root stock used on roses sold in the southwest. Because of its vigor it has probably nearly taken over your peace rose. One way to help prevent this from happening is to prune off new shoots as close to the root stock as possible as soon as they are seen growing. Lack of adequate sun and regular annual pruning plus old age contributes to the decline of your rose.
Transplanting will often help to rejuvenate a declining rose bush.
I would suggest that you cut the bush back to about 18 inches tall, have the new hole dug, and take up as much soil as you can handle with the bush and immediately plant in the new hole.

I'm enclosing a copy of an article that I had published in the Republic recently on planting bare root roses.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian

December and January is an exciting time of year for rose lovers, second only to the spring and fall  blooming time.
The nurseries will be receiving their new stock of roses in mid December, and we rosarians all look forward with anticipation the new rose varieties. For the best selection of varieties don't delay. If you wait until late January you may have trouble finding that favorite rose.
You have three options as to where to buy roses: 1. Nurseries, 2. Mail order, 3. Discounters. There is also the option of buying either bare root or potted. My preference is to buy bare root from a nursery that stores the roses in a sawdust bin. The roots of roses stored in a sawdust bin can be examined, and if you don't like the appearance of the roots you don't have to buy. With a packaged rose you don't have that option. After the middle of February my preference is to buy potted roses because they have already started the rooting process, and the chances of survival are much better.
If you are unable to find the variety wanted locally, then your only option is mail order.If the mail order option is used, again be sure and order early, not only for the best selection, but you won't want bare root roses shipped to the Phoenix area in March.
It's time to plant.Dig the hole a month before  you plant if possible, replace the soil with amendments and soak well. Do not put fertilizer in the planting hole at this time.   Most rose books recommend a planting hole of at least 18 x 18 inches. My recommendation is to make the planting hole 30 x 30 inches, and especially if the soil is dense clay as is found in most of Maricopa county. If you have much caliche your options are to either dig out the caliche or to build raised beds.
It's now planting time. Soak the bare root roses over night in water;dig out some of the planting mix, form a cone,spread the rose roots on the cone with the bud graft 2 inches above grade, backfill and water in well. To keep the canes from drying out mound up either the planting mix or mulch around the canes.
January is the time to prune roses for those of you who already have  them in your garden. Basically cut your hybred teas, florabundas, and minatures back from 1/3 to 1/2  depending on the size; cut out the dead wood, and strip off all the leaves and clean up around the bush. It is always helpful to attend one of the pruning demonstrations held in public rose gardens by most of the rose societies in the valley. Watch the Saturday newspapers home section for time and place.
Have problems with roses or have questions to be answered, call the Master Gardner hot line or talk to one of the many Master Gardner Consulting Rosarians.

Rod McKusick, Master Gardner and Consulting Rosarian

--part1_156.6d63fba.296a10ff_boundary-- From HRB85373@aol.com Sun Jan 6 23:05:56 2002 From: HRB85373@aol.com (HRB85373@aol.com) Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 16:05:56 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201062305.g06N5un00122@Ag.arizona.edu> I have heard that our Christmas Amaryllis can be planted outdoors here in the valley after it has finished blooming. Any information as to how, when, watering, and other details? Thank you! Hal From Helenzbaby@aol.com Mon Jan 7 17:24:19 2002 From: Helenzbaby@aol.com (Helenzbaby@aol.com) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 10:24:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201071724.g07HOJn06724@Ag.arizona.edu> I am inquiring about the best kind of grass to plant. I live in Yuma. We have a front yard facing east that is almost all shade ... big trees. The back yard is just the opposite with lots of sun. Do you have any information about Dichondria? Would it make a good ground cover? Your help will be appreciated. Thank You HelenzBaby@aol.com From rtrexler@apd.maricopa.gov Mon Jan 7 20:35:55 2002 From: rtrexler@apd.maricopa.gov (rtrexler@apd.maricopa.gov) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 13:35:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200201072035.g07KZtn23858@Ag.arizona.edu> We are building a new home in south phoenix and want to have a hummingbird garden when we landscape. What plants, trees, shrubs, should we include? From boofie@bigfoot.com Mon Jan 7 21:41:50 2002 From: boofie@bigfoot.com (Jessica Boof Wilson) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 13:41:50 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Little Grey Bugs In-Reply-To: <200201062045.g06Kjkn17878@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20020107214150.32056.qmail@web10005.mail.yahoo.com> In one of the earlier posts there was a solution to the little grey bugs that are flying around my house. I looked it up and found that I am supposed to put a teaspoon of household bleach into a liter of water. My question is: what do I do with this solution? Water my plants with it? If so, one of my plants or all using the whole amount? Soak the plants in it? If so, for how long? I am really new to this whole plant thing, and would like specifics spelled out to me as if I were in Kindergarden... no.. n