From j_harrell@NetZero.net Tue Jan 1 17:41:16 2002
From: j_harrell@NetZero.net (Jackie and Bill Harrell)
Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2002 10:41:16 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Virus from me!
Message-ID: <3C31F4BC.672A6A7B@NetZero.net>
Dear Everybody,
This is Happy New Year and a fine how d'y do - I am so sorry, but
Sunday night December 30 I took in a virus, the W32.magistr, and
apparently my computer gleefully passed it on to many of you in my
address book. Mea culpa, mea culpa! I'm so sorry, but the crazy e-mail
and attachments that have gone out are not my intention.
This is to alert you to update your anti-virus stuff and to SCAN and
get rid of it, if it arrived. I truly hope this will not cause too
great an inconvenience! And I do hope the rest of your 2002 is Virus
Free!
Sincerely, Jackie Harrell
----------------------------------------------------
Sign Up for NetZero Platinum Today
Only $9.95 per month!
http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97
From jkandell@twistedclicks.com Wed Jan 2 12:25:31 2002
From: jkandell@twistedclicks.com (Jonathan Kandell)
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 05:25:31 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] plant tomatoes early or on time?
Message-ID: <000801c19388$9ca0be20$90a20404@oemcomputer>
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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Like many of you, I face a really short tomato season March - June, with =
not many tomatoes by the time it gets hot, so this year I'm starting =
seed a month early. Question: Is it better to plant standard-sized =
tomato seedlings (7 weeks) a month early in e.g. wall o waters or =
plastic-wrapped cages; or is it better to keep them inside an extra =
three or four weeks until the regular planting time? My fear is that =
putting them in early, even under plastic, they'll just sit there, =
whereas inside they'd continue growing. Then again, I've heard many =
warnings about growing seedlings beyond 6-8 weeks.
jk
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Like many of you, I face a really short tomato =
season=20
March - June, with not many tomatoes by the time it gets hot, so =
this year=20
I'm starting seed a month early. Question: Is it better to plant=20
standard-sized tomato seedlings (7 weeks) a month early in e.g. wall o =
waters or=20
plastic-wrapped cages; or is it better to keep them inside an extra =
three or=20
four weeks until the regular planting time? My fear is that =
putting them=20
in early, even under plastic, they'll just sit there, whereas inside =
they'd=20
continue growing. Then again, I've heard many warnings about =
growing=20
seedlings beyond 6-8 weeks.
jk
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From crymer@Ag.arizona.edu Wed Jan 2 17:16:40 2002
From: crymer@Ag.arizona.edu (Cathy Rymer)
Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 10:16:40 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Blood Oranges
In-Reply-To: <3C2E5D91.ECD06275@home.com>
References: <11b.942bcfe.295f859f@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20020102100820.00a8be40@ag.arizona.edu>
Hi Alan,
Pigmented oranges (blood oranges) are dependent on cool temperatures to
produce the red color in the fruit and sometimes the peel. Because of this
some varieties produce little or no color in the Salt River Valley. The
variety that produces the most consistent dark red internal color here is
Salustiana.
Taste is a matter of personal preference. Why not make plans to attend the
Citrus and Fruit Clinic on Saturday, January 26 in Mesa. This event is
held annually by the University of Arizona and has seminars on a variety of
topics dealing with citrus and fruit in Arizona. Faculty and staff from
the University will present the sessions.
The most popular session is the "taste testing" where you can sample
fruits of trees you might be considering planting in your yard.
Details are available at
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/calendar/citrus-e.htm The
following Saturday morning the event will be repeated on the west side of
town at the University of Arizona Citrus Research Center in Waddell.
I hope this helps.
Kind regards,
Cathy
At 05:19 PM 12/29/2001 -0700, GizmoAZ wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I'm wondering if anyone here grows Blood Oranges? I am in
>particular interested in the variety "Ruby Blood Orange". I
>used my Christmas money and bought a Ruby Blood Orange at
>Greenfield Citrus nurseries. When I went there, my intent was
>to buy a Moro Blood Orange. I was informed by the staff at
>Greenfield that Moro Blood Oranges did not perform as well in
>our desert climate as they do on the coast, and the Ruby was
>recommended in place of Moro. I was told it gets much redder
>than Moro, and produces a much sweeter juice. Anyone care to
>elaborate or share their experiences with both Blood Oranges
>in general, and the Ruby Blood Orange, if you have that
>variety.
>
>Thanks,
>-----
>Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13
>
>http://www.gizmoaz.com
>Over 200 Roses and 125 Different varieties! Never a dull
>moment!!
>Check out the Garden Cams on Saturday and Sunday!!
>--
> No matter how fast your PC is, Microsoft will find a way to
>slow it down
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
Catherine Rymer
Instructional Specialist, Sr., Urban Horticulture
University of Arizona
Maricopa County Cooperative Extension
4341 E. Broadway
Phoenix, AZ 85040
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/
From crymer@Ag.arizona.edu Wed Jan 2 18:25:56 2002
From: crymer@Ag.arizona.edu (Cathy Rymer)
Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 11:25:56 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Virus from me!
In-Reply-To: <3C31F4BC.672A6A7B@NetZero.net>
Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20020102105848.00a20f00@ag.arizona.edu>
Happy New Year!,
Jackie Harrell was concerned that a virus may have been send to the
arid_gardener list serve from her address book.
Not to worry. Each message sent to the arid_gardener list by a
non-subscriber, requires approval from one of the list managers before it
is posted. The message containing the virus was rejected before it could
be sent to the list.
This is just one of the measures we take to prevent spam messages and
viruses from reaching our subscribers. Its good to know the system is working.
Kind regards,
Cathy
At 10:41 AM 01/01/2002 -0700, Jackie and Bill Harrell wrote:
>Dear Everybody,
>
> This is Happy New Year and a fine how d'y do - I am so sorry, but
>Sunday night December 30 I took in a virus, the W32.magistr, and
>apparently my computer gleefully passed it on to many of you in my
>address book. Mea culpa, mea culpa! I'm so sorry, but the crazy e-mail
>and attachments that have gone out are not my intention.
>
> This is to alert you to update your anti-virus stuff and to SCAN and
>get rid of it, if it arrived. I truly hope this will not cause too
>great an inconvenience! And I do hope the rest of your 2002 is Virus
>Free!
Catherine Rymer
Instructional Specialist, Sr., Urban Horticulture
University of Arizona
Maricopa County Cooperative Extension
4341 E. Broadway
Phoenix, AZ 85040
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/
From bergerond@msn.com Wed Jan 2 18:41:53 2002
From: bergerond@msn.com (bergerond@msn.com)
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 11:41:53 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200201021841.g02Ifrn07781@Ag.arizona.edu>
I know apple trees like to live somewhere other than deserts but it happens to be my favorite fruit (Mackintosh). I'd love to plant the one which might do well in our arid climate and would really appreciate your advice. I live in NW Phoenix area where the soil is a bit gravely and non-irrigated, if that is a factor.
Thanks,
Diane
From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Jan 2 19:16:11 2002
From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin)
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 12:16:11 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Apples in NW Phoenix
References: <200201021841.g02Ifrn07781@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <008201c193c3$2a25a320$7f50530c@j0r9501>
The main problems with growing apples here is the winter chill needed
during the dormant period. Chill hours are defined as the number of
hours at 45 degrees F and under. McIntosh requires 900 chill hours. We
will sometimes get as many as 600 hours but the past few years it has
been much less. Low chill varieties sometimes recommended are Anna
(200-300 hours), Dorsett Golden (250 hours), and Ein Shemer (350 hours).
A pollenizer such as Dorsett Golden is often recommended for Anna.
Although these desert-grown apples are botanically classified as apples,
if you are particularly fond of McIntosh, Jonathan, Winesap, et al, you
would probably be disappointed with Anna which is the only one of the
three that is very productive. -Olin
----- Original Message ----- From:
To> I know apple trees like to live somewhere other than deserts but it
happens to be my favorite fruit (Mackintosh). I'd love to plant the one
which might do well in our arid climate and would really appreciate your
advice. I live in NW Phoenix area where the soil is a bit gravely and
non-irrigated, if that is a factor.
> Thanks,
> Diane
From dmkerr2@home.com Thu Jan 3 16:14:48 2002
From: dmkerr2@home.com (Kerr Family)
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 09:14:48 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Where did the white flies go?
Message-ID: <002301c19471$c4578590$328e0541@cx89858a>
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This year, I haven't seen any white flies. They were so numerous in =
past years. Anyone know why?
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This year, I haven't seen any white =
flies. =20
They were so numerous in past years. Anyone know=20
why?
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From bayers@honors.arizona.edu Thu Jan 3 19:01:52 2002
From: bayers@honors.arizona.edu (Jim Bayers)
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 12:01:52 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Chilean Mesquite Pruning
Message-ID:
I need to prune my Chilean Mesquite. It's it's first year and it's not
growning quite the way I had hoped.
I thought the leaves would fall off, but so far, they haven't.
Is it a good time to prune such a thing?
I'm in Tucson.
Thanks.
From marisadei@yahoo.com Thu Jan 3 21:08:17 2002
From: marisadei@yahoo.com (marisadei@yahoo.com)
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 14:08:17 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200201032108.g03L8Gn05639@Ag.arizona.edu>
how do you propagate a mango plant from seed?I bought mangos this summer, ate the fruit and kept the large pits. do these pits have a chance of becoming plants?
From marisadei@yahoo.com Thu Jan 3 21:09:46 2002
From: marisadei@yahoo.com (marisadei@yahoo.com)
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 14:09:46 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200201032109.g03L9kn05927@Ag.arizona.edu>
how do you propagate a mango plant from seed?I bought mangos this summer, ate the fruit and kept the large pits. do these pits have a chance of becoming plants?
sincerely,
marisa
From kcaudle@lsdaz.com Thu Jan 3 21:10:48 2002
From: kcaudle@lsdaz.com (kcaudle@lsdaz.com)
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 14:10:48 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200201032110.g03LAmn06186@Ag.arizona.edu>
Where to go to purchase dwarf peach tree and best variety, also dwarf lime tree and best variety.
Thank you
From marisadei@yahoo.com Thu Jan 3 21:15:35 2002
From: marisadei@yahoo.com (marisadei@yahoo.com)
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 14:15:35 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200201032115.g03LFZn06962@Ag.arizona.edu>
how do you propagate mangos from seed? i bought mangos this summer, ate the fruit and kept the large pits. do these pits have a chance of becoming plants again?
sincerely
marisa d.i.
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Jan 3 21:51:26 2002
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com)
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 16:51:26 EST
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Chilean Mesquite Pruning
Message-ID: <4c.4621529.29662c5e@aol.com>
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Desert adapted trees are bettered pruned during the summer or when it is much
warmer than it is in January. Leaf drop on the Chilean Mesquite usually
happens after freezing or near freezing weather.
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
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Desert adapted trees are bettered pruned during the summer or when it is much warmer than it is in January. Leaf drop on the Chilean Mesquite usually happens after freezing or near freezing weather.
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_4c.4621529.29662c5e_boundary--
From kelleejb@yahoo.com Thu Jan 3 22:09:57 2002
From: kelleejb@yahoo.com (kelleejb@yahoo.com)
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 15:09:57 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200201032209.g03M9vn17229@Ag.arizona.edu>
Hi,
I have approximately 150 glad bulbs that are all different colors. Last year all of the flowers came up the same color. The flowers themselves were white with a deep purple in the middle of them. I do know that I have atleast 5 of these same colored ones. I plant them in groups of 5. I leave them in the ground all yr and usually in Jan to Feb I rake about an 1 or 1 1/2 inches of dirt out and sprinkle bone meal and then cover them back up with a mixture of 50% dirt and 50% potting soil. After they come up and are about 6 inches tall I will feed them Miracle Grow. What do I need to do to make sure that they all come up this year being the color that they are suppose to? I also water them probably about every other day once it heats up more. Thank you.
Kellee
From mgdlite37d@aol.com Thu Jan 3 23:17:28 2002
From: mgdlite37d@aol.com (mgdlite37d@aol.com)
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 16:17:28 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200201032317.g03NHSn00648@Ag.arizona.edu>
Hi folks,
Might be having a problem with my mesquite tree of 7 years old. Live at Tatum & Dynimite N. Phoenix. Landscapers originally planted a 15 Gal mesquite in my front yard (facing west) with a dripline with a 2gal emiter. The tree grew fast quick and large, and the watering schedule during summer set at 4 days a week. I finally I cut the water off about 2 years ago with a spread of about 25 foot in diameter and about 35 high.
The problem I'm having for the past 2 years is in winter it drops clean all of its leaves then comes back beautiful in the spring and through the summer. Others (mesquite trees) in my area seem not to drop leaves like mine of the same spcies and size. Is it the watering that I shut down the problem??????.
Thanks Sal
From umiller@azdps.com Thu Jan 3 21:55:51 2002
From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller)
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 14:55:51 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Chilean Mesquite Dropping Leaves
In-Reply-To: <200201032317.g03NHSn00648@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID:
Sal - Mesquites drop their leaves in winter so that's normal. Mine tends to
do it later; it hasn't started dropping any yet. But within a month it'll
be raining those green/yellow little leaves. So, not to worry, it's just
nature doing it's annual housecleaning. I don't know about the other
mesquites in your neighborhood. All the ones in my neighborhood drop their
leaflets.
Ursula Miller
Not a Master Gardener
-----Original Message-----
From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu
[mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of mgdlite37d@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 4:17 PM
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Hi folks,
Might be having a problem with my mesquite tree of 7 years old. Live at
Tatum & Dynimite N. Phoenix. Landscapers originally planted a 15 Gal
mesquite in my front yard (facing west) with a dripline with a 2gal emiter.
The tree grew fast quick and large, and the watering schedule during summer
set at 4 days a week. I finally I cut the water off about 2 years ago with a
spread of about 25 foot in diameter and about 35 high.
The problem I'm having for the past 2 years is in winter it drops clean all
of its leaves then comes back beautiful in the spring and through the
summer. Others (mesquite trees) in my area seem not to drop leaves like mine
of the same spcies and size. Is it the watering that I shut down the
problem??????.
Thanks Sal
_______________________________________________
Arid_gardener mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From tamhankins@aol.com Fri Jan 4 03:59:38 2002
From: tamhankins@aol.com (tamhankins@aol.com)
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 20:59:38 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200201040359.g043xcn05585@Ag.arizona.edu>
My question concerns tomatillos. What type of tomatillo does best in the Phoenix area? My 2000 season plants had lots of fruits, a friend of mine gave me those seeds. Then in 2001 I bought some seeds from Burpee that had alot of flowers but absoltly no ftuit.I have since thrown those seeds away. Can someone help me. Thank you, Chris
From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri Jan 4 04:23:29 2002
From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin)
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 21:23:29 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Where did the white flies go?
References: <002301c19471$c4578590$328e0541@cx89858a>
Message-ID: <010201c194d9$add64780$2f50530c@j0r9501>
Probably better control in the melon fields and cotton fields in the
valley. -Olin
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kerr Family"
To:
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 9:14 AM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Where did the white flies go?
This year, I haven't seen any white flies. They were so numerous in
past years. Anyone know why?
From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri Jan 4 04:49:00 2002
From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin)
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 21:49:00 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: plant tomatoes early or on time?
References: <001001c1946e$e0f74760$bca20404@oemcomputer>
Message-ID: <000501c194db$22762000$2f50530c@j0r9501>
In the Phoenix area tomatoes will grow just fine under plastic during
the winter months but somewhat slower than in the spring out in the open
because of less light during the short winter days. If you can plant
one gallon sized tomatoes before blooming about Feb 1 you have a better
chance of getting a good yield with mid season indeterminate types. But
with short season determinate bushes, one may as well wait to plant out
until the end of Feb when freeze protection is usually not required.
The Phoenix area is in the low desert at about 1092 feet in USDA Cold
Hardiness Zone 9b, Sunset Zone 13, and AZ Plant Climate Zone 5
(according to http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1169.pdf ).
At 2584 feet, USDA Zone 8, Sunset 12, and AZ Plant Climate Zone 4,
Tucson could be considered mid desert. Note that these climate and
hardiness zones all use different criteria to define the zones but all
still place Phoenix and Phoenix in different zones. It seems one could
achieve similar results in Tucson by planting about 3 weeks later but,
given Tucson's December 2001 average low of 31 deg (according to the
AZMET site) and the 22 deg recorded on Dec 26, I would hesitate to make
any recommendation for Tucson.
Should note that at our NW Phoenix location, winter lows are typically 5
deg cooler than the official airport lows but highs are about the same.
And the temps in the garden amongst all the vegetation is still
different from that at our backyard thermometer location. So I would
tend to use the published zone designation as a guide, not as an
absolute
Why not experiment and try it both ways?
Olin
----- Original Message ----- From: Jonathan Kandell
To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 5:25 AM
Subject: plant tomatoes early or on time?
>Like many of you, I face a really short tomato season March - June,
with
>not many tomatoes by the time it gets hot, so this year I'm starting
>seed a month early. Question: Is it better to plant standard-sized
>tomato seedlings (7 weeks) a month early in e.g. wall o waters or
>plastic-wrapped cages; or is it better to keep them inside an extra
>three or four weeks until the regular planting time? My fear is that
>putting them in early, even under plastic, they'll just sit there,
>whereas inside they'd continue growing. Then again, I've heard many
>warnings about growing seedlings beyond 6-8 weeks.
From gretchendell@home.com Fri Jan 4 14:48:03 2002
From: gretchendell@home.com (gretchendell@home.com)
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 07:48:03 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200201041448.g04Em3n03665@Ag.arizona.edu>
2 questions-
1)I have a cala lilly that has survived for 2 years in a somewhat shady location, however it has not bloomed. What type of fertilizer should I provide, how often?
2)I am looking for suggestions for landscape plants in a difficult area of a side yard. The area is South facing, against the house and at the bottom of a slope. There is turf grass on the slope area, therefore the area in questions is very wet from run-off.
From kimlincoln@aol.com Fri Jan 4 16:11:58 2002
From: kimlincoln@aol.com (kimlincoln@aol.com)
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 09:11:58 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200201041611.g04GBwn19376@Ag.arizona.edu>
What is the best type of eating orange tree to plant? I live in North Phoenix. I've heard Valentia, Arizona Sweets, and even Navel. What is an "Arizona Sweets" orange? And I've read that there are several varieties. Please recommend an awesome orange tree for a first time grower of citrus. Thank you. Kim Lincoln
From donbeets@msn.com Fri Jan 4 19:10:59 2002
From: donbeets@msn.com (donbeets@msn.com)
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 12:10:59 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200201041910.g04JAxn24657@Ag.arizona.edu>
The tree in our front yard is supposed to be an evergreen elm.Since being planted,the top half has lost it's foliage and looks as if the tree is dying.Is this normal for this type tree.if not what can be done to correct this condition.any soggestions welcomed
From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Jan 4 19:38:03 2002
From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew)
Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 19:38:03 +0000
Subject: [Arid_gardener] citrus varieties
Message-ID:
For a list of recommended citrus varieties, check
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/
If you can, attend one of the citrus tasting days coming up.
Information is available at:
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/
Here is an earlier answer in the archives from Dawn Kazmer:
The Cooperative Extension has a bulletin called Citrus Varieties for our
area that lists and comments of varieous citrus. In January, they held
a tasting session at the Fruit Field Day.
Personally, I have Triveta (ripens January), and Valencia (ripens March)
oranges, pink grapefruit, very seedy unknown orange that drops fruit
early and is going to be removed when Triveta and Valencia get bigger,
Minneola Tangelo (ripens January but hangs on at least through
now)....still testing and Kinnow tangerine (ripens January but hangs on
at least through now)....still testing, Lisbon lemon and Bears lime.
This is probably too much citrus when they mature because the one
grapefruit is mature and certainly enough for 3 families. They are very
green trees that give almost no trouble and I love them. I have tried to
plant dwarf trees and, it appears that the Kinnow and Bear's lime
actually are going to be dwarf................. I chose Flying Dragon
root stock for the two oranges and expect that they will also actually be
dwarf. My plan is to keep the others as compact as possible without
distorting their natural shapes.
Grapefruit is the easiest citrus to grow near Phoenix. The Kinnow has
more seeds than the Minneola and my vote would be for the Minneola and
Grapefruit but Trevita is very popular with many people who have only two
trees. My Trevita is less than one year in the ground and I can not
speak of it from experience.
>From: kimlincoln@aol.com
>To:
>Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 09:11:58 -0700 (MST)
>
>What is the best type of eating orange tree to plant? I live in North
>Phoenix. I've heard Valentia, Arizona Sweets, and even Navel. What is an
>"Arizona Sweets" orange? And I've read that there are several varieties.
>Please recommend an awesome orange tree for a first time grower of citrus.
>Thank you. Kim Lincoln
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Jan 4 21:23:03 2002
From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy)
Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 14:23:03 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruing Mesquite
References: <200112281845.fBSIjEn10450@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <3C361D36.25C90AC4@qwest.net>
A good reference is Eric Johnson's Pruning Planting & Care. His focus is
on plants that grow in the desert southwest. Check the library or local
book store
In the meantime the MG Manual has general guidance at
http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/pruning/index.html
Removing larger limbs for tree shaping is best done Feb/Mar to minimize
sap ooze. Thereafter, pruning is done in the hotter season to maintain
what can become excessive vegetative growth. The biggest culprit is more
water than the tree needs, so go easy on the agua and minimize a sweaty
summertime chore! It saves the landfills too.
Linda Guy, MG
houseofblue@yahoo.com wrote:
> Can you send me instructions on how to prune a chilean mesquite?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Jan 4 21:27:12 2002
From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy)
Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 14:27:12 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lawn for Shade
References: <000c01c1900c$453e4280$9cd256d1@0019687347>
Message-ID: <3C361E2F.E7D0F426@qwest.net>
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Bermuda won't handle the shade. There are a number of replies that you
can access in the archives section of our website and here is one of
them to get you started.
http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2001-March/006811.html
Linda Guy, MG
roger vail wrote:
> Hi Linda, I know we just entered the winter season but
> Spring in our area is just around the corner..My question is last
> summer my Bermuda came in very sparingly.As you may have guessed my
> backyard is about 75% shade now.I need some ideas on what type of
> shade grass is used for the summer if any.The area needed to cover is
> about 1000 square feet..Any suggestions would be greatly
> appreciated....I don't want to go another summer with most of the yard
> being
> dirt.
> Thank
> You
> Susan
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Bermuda won't handle the shade. There are a number of replies that you
can access in the archives section of our website and here is one of them
to get you started.
http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2001-March/006811.html
Linda Guy, MG
roger vail wrote:
Hi
Linda,
I know we just entered the winter season but Spring in our area is just
around the corner..My question is last summer my Bermuda came in very sparingly.As
you may have guessed my backyard is about 75% shade now.I need some ideas
on what type of shade grass is used for the summer if any.The area needed
to cover is about 1000 square feet..Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated....I
don't want to go another summer with most of the yard being dirt.
Thank You
Susan
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From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Jan 4 21:31:10 2002
From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy)
Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 14:31:10 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Spacing Dwarf Nandina Plants
References: <5.1.0.14.2.20011229120902.009f47c0@pop3.norton.antivirus>
Message-ID: <3C361F1D.343AF379@qwest.net>
Your best bet would have been to seek the information from your nursery staff,
whom I'd still suggest that you call. Regular nandina can be 3-4' wide; there
are numerous dwarf varieties, each with a slightly different span. If you have
the name, you can check out the latest Sunset Western Garden book for the
estimated dimensions.
Linda Guy, MG
Signa wrote:
> I'd like to replace an irregularly shaped bed of iris in full sun (Tucson
> street side yard) with a grouping of Dwarf Nandina. I've been looking
> every winter for several years to find some that develop the lovely rich
> red winter color and finally found some today in a local nursery. I want
> them to form, when mature, an informal grouping of separated and distinct
> (from one another) low "mounds" rather than a massed planting where they
> all run into one another. How far apart do I want to space them to get the
> effect I'm after? I.e., how wide should I expect each individual bush to
> spread?
>
> Signa
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Jan 4 21:32:00 2002
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com)
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 16:32:00 EST
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Evergreen Elm (Ulmus parvifolia)
Message-ID: <47.160420be.29677950@aol.com>
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The Evergreen Elm is cold deciduous which means that when temperatures are
near freezing the tree will drop its leaves. Here in the low desert (Phoenix
area) it almost always happens.
It is important that the Evergreen Elm be deep watered periodically to help
flush the salts out of the root zone as the tree appears to be quite salt
sensitive.
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
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The Evergreen Elm is cold deciduous which means that when temperatures are near freezing the tree will drop its leaves. Here in the low desert (Phoenix area) it almost always happens.
It is important that the Evergreen Elm be deep watered periodically to help flush the salts out of the root zone as the tree appears to be quite salt sensitive.
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
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From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Jan 4 21:34:16 2002
From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy)
Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 14:34:16 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sago Palm...
References: <000801c19184$66c0b360$e3a8ea18@lvcablemodem.com>
Message-ID: <3C361FD7.E39DA4BF@qwest.net>
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Sago palms do not like direct sunlight and if this is where you have
placed it, you risk losing the plant. Some have been known to take
moderate morning light, and during the adjustment period, the older
leaves may curl up and brown while the newer ones will prove a bit
sturdier.
Check out other care practices in our palm publication at
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf
Linda Guy, MG
fotoman wrote:
> Hi Linda, If you are still offering advice by email...I need help. My
> Sago Palm is rather mature but recently transplanted into my garden.
> It's leaves are beginning to curl. Is this an indication of too much
> water, not enough water, or something else? Thanks for any assistance
> you could provide! Evan PowellLas Vegas, NV
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Sago palms do not like direct sunlight and if this is where you have placed
it, you risk losing the plant. Some have been known to take moderate morning
light, and during the adjustment period, the older leaves may curl up and
brown while the newer ones will prove a bit sturdier.
Check out other care practices in our palm publication at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf
Linda Guy, MG
fotoman wrote:
Hi
Linda, If you are still
offering advice by email...I need help. My Sago Palm is rather mature but
recently transplanted into my garden. It's leaves are beginning to curl.
Is this an indication of too much water, not enough water, or something
else? Thanks for any assistance you could provide! Evan
PowellLas Vegas, NV
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From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Jan 4 21:37:12 2002
From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy)
Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 14:37:12 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite Leaf Drop
References: <200201032317.g03NHSn00648@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <3C362088.76CC21DA@qwest.net>
It could be that these are different mesquites, but it could also be the microclimate that each find themselves in. My desert tress in the south yard in full winter sun hold leaves much longer and don't seem to do a 100% drop. Those on the north side of the house in a few months of winter shade generally drop before Christmas, if the weather is cool.
Linda Guy, MG
mgdlite37d@aol.com wrote:
> Hi folks,
>
> Might be having a problem with my mesquite tree of 7 years old. Live at Tatum & Dynimite N. Phoenix. Landscapers originally planted a 15 Gal mesquite in my front yard (facing west) with a dripline with a 2gal emiter. The tree grew fast quick and large, and the watering schedule during summer set at 4 days a week. I finally I cut the water off about 2 years ago with a spread of about 25 foot in diameter and about 35 high.
>
> The problem I'm having for the past 2 years is in winter it drops clean all of its leaves then comes back beautiful in the spring and through the summer. Others (mesquite trees) in my area seem not to drop leaves like mine of the same spcies and size. Is it the watering that I shut down the problem??????.
>
> Thanks Sal
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Jan 4 22:02:33 2002
From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy)
Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 15:02:33 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mangos
References: <200201032108.g03L8Gn05639@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <3C362679.68F94EAE@qwest.net>
If you do not receive a reply from any other members of the arid_gardener server, why don't you try the local chapter of the California Rare Fruit Growers at
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/clubs.htm
Good luck!
Linda Guy, MG
marisadei@yahoo.com wrote:
> how do you propagate a mango plant from seed?I bought mangos this summer, ate the fruit and kept the large pits. do these pits have a chance of becoming plants?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Jan 4 22:05:34 2002
From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy)
Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 15:05:34 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rabbit Control
References: <200112240256.fBO2udn06775@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <3C36272E.99F27CD3@qwest.net>
This question has been considered from time to time on this list server. May I suggest you search the archives of previous answers at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/question.htm
To get you started here is one recent reply
http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-June/004443.html
Linda Guy, MG
gwjinaz@aol.com wrote:
> need infor on preventing damage from rabbits and a list of plants that rabbits stay away from and list of plants that they love Have heard of chemical Repel and moth balls but have not tried them thanks
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From dmkerr2@home.com Fri Jan 4 22:58:28 2002
From: dmkerr2@home.com (Kerr Family)
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 15:58:28 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Try planting tomatos early
Message-ID: <002101c19573$532bed90$328e0541@cx89858a>
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I have had some great tomato crops planting them early. I am too cheap =
to use wall-o-waters. Instead I use four one gallon milk or pool =
chemical jugs arranged in a cross around the plant. Cover from 6 to 8 =
am on really cold mornings. The plants grow very slowly, but are =
putting out roots early in the season. They can grow huge vines, but =
the flowers don't work until it gets warm. But when it does and a large =
vigorous plant supports them, you won't know what to do with all the =
tomatos. I had to resort to drying them and leaving bags with my =
neighbors and friends at work.
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I have had some great tomato crops =
planting them=20
early. I am too cheap to use wall-o-waters. Instead I use =
four one=20
gallon milk or pool chemical jugs arranged in a cross around the =
plant. =20
Cover from 6 to 8 am on really cold mornings. The plants grow very =
slowly,=20
but are putting out roots early in the season. They can grow huge =
vines,=20
but the flowers don't work until it gets warm. But when it does =
and a=20
large vigorous plant supports them, you won't know what to do with all =
the=20
tomatos. I had to resort to drying them and leaving bags with my =
neighbors=20
and friends at work.
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From kcaudle@lsdaz.com Fri Jan 4 23:32:42 2002
From: kcaudle@lsdaz.com (Kathleen Caudle)
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 16:32:42 -0700
Subject: FW: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID:
From: Kathleen Caudle [mailto:kcaudle@lsdaz.com]
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2002 4:16 PM
To: 'Mark Mittelstaedt'
Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Thank you for your advice, I guess I should have prefaced my question with
my experience being a master gardener in the past and landscape designer. I
am just not sure and actually have not seen dwarf deciduous trees at any of
the nurseries I have been to in the past, Bakers, Whitfil, tiptop(no longer)
or the ones in mesa?? Anyway if you have any ideas let me know.
Thanks
Kathleen A. Tucker
Senior Landscape Designer
Logan Simpson Design
480.967.1343 x.160
kcaudle@lsdaz.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Mittelstaedt [mailto:mmittelstaedt@earthlink.net]
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 8:58 PM
To: Kathleen Caudle
Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Where to go is not as important as selecting a tree that has a good shape.
Even dwarf varieties can look good. I have a Mexican lime that I like a lot
better than Bearss lime trees I have had. It won't get much more than 10
feet tall. Some of these are pretty tiny. Pick the citrus you like, then
look at lots of nurseries until you find ones whose shape you like. It is
almost impossible to correct a really bad shape with pruning. Spend a few
more bucks, or time on the phone interrogating nursery personnel, and get
nice ones when you find them - It'll be worth it over the years.
----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 2:10 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
> Where to go to purchase dwarf peach tree and best variety, also dwarf lime
tree and best variety.
>
> Thank you
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From sjbass@qwest.net Sat Jan 5 01:57:45 2002
From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass)
Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2002 18:57:45 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Locating dwarf lime tree
References:
Message-ID: <3C365D99.7C3612B9@qwest.net>
Kathleen:
Have you tried calling Greenfield Citrus Nursery? If they do not have what you
want, perhaps they can direct you to someone who does? Their phone number is
480-830-8000. Not sure about the dwarf peach.
Sue Bass
Kathleen Caudle wrote:
> From: Kathleen Caudle [mailto:kcaudle@lsdaz.com]
> Sent: Friday, January 04, 2002 4:16 PM
> To: 'Mark Mittelstaedt'
> Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>
> Thank you for your advice, I guess I should have prefaced my question with
> my experience being a master gardener in the past and landscape designer. I
> am just not sure and actually have not seen dwarf deciduous trees at any of
> the nurseries I have been to in the past, Bakers, Whitfil, tiptop(no longer)
> or the ones in mesa?? Anyway if you have any ideas let me know.
> Thanks
> Kathleen A. Tucker
> Senior Landscape Designer
> Logan Simpson Design
> 480.967.1343 x.160
> kcaudle@lsdaz.com
>
From millero@worldnet.att.net Sat Jan 5 04:48:55 2002
From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin)
Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 21:48:55 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Try planting tomatos early
Message-ID: <002e01c195a4$6881d980$dc50530c@j0r9501>
Very Interesting. Questions:
When do you start the seed?
When do you set out in garden?
How big when set out?
Any particular varieties?
Olin
Original Message From Kerr Family dmkerr2@home.com
Fri, 4 Jan 2002 15:58:28 -0700
>...
>I have had some great tomato crops planting them early. ...
>I use four one gallon milk or pool chemical jugs arranged in a cross
> around the plant. Cover from 6 to 8 am on really cold mornings.
>The plants grow very slowly, but are putting out roots early in the
>season. They can grow huge vines, but the flowers don't work until
>it gets warm. But when it does and a large vigorous plant supports
>them, you won't know what to do with all the tomatos. I had to resort
>to drying them and leaving bags with my neighbors and friends at work.
From valpogrl@aol.com Sat Jan 5 16:34:10 2002
From: valpogrl@aol.com (valpogrl@aol.com)
Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 09:34:10 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200201051634.g05GYAn09396@Ag.arizona.edu>
Olin,
I saw your questions on the tomatoes, I'm awaiting the answers too.
Just thought I'd let you know what works for me (at least as far as winter tomatoes go). I plant the winter tomatoes in the large black plastic pots from the nursery (the bigger the pot the better). Then when it gets to be chilly out I move the pots by our swimming pool. The water from the pool seems to keep them warm enough although in very cold years I have strung the little twinkly xmas lights in the cages. This year I have not, nor have I covered them at night.I live in NW Phoenix and it does get cold here. The plants are still blooming and even setting fruit! Almost daily I pick ripe tomatoes.
I generally use cherry or small short season varieties for winter and start my seeds in September or October. For my spring tomatoes I start them right at Christmas time.
Cindy
From brdando@home.com Sat Jan 5 19:14:24 2002
From: brdando@home.com (brdando@home.com)
Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 12:14:24 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200201051914.g05JEOn23141@Ag.arizona.edu>
Hello,
How much room is needed to plant a queen palm in the ground (as opposed to in a planter)?
Thanks!
From kschwart@Ag.arizona.edu Sat Jan 5 20:18:09 2002
From: kschwart@Ag.arizona.edu (Kerry Schwartz)
Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2002 13:18:09 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Water Education Position in Maricopa County, AZ: Please
share with anyone who might be interested!
Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020105131358.01efc110@ag.arizona.edu>
Environmental Educators,
The University of Arizona is hiring an Instructional Specialist, Senior to
be housed in Maricopa County. Please find the job announcement at
http://www.hr.arizona.edu/23002xacxoutx.htm. The job number is 23002 and
should be put on your cover letter and resume. The Job Application form
can be found at http://www.hr.arizona.edu/jobvacan.htm.
Kerry Schwartz
Project WET Coordinator
Water Resources Research Center
The University of Arizona
350 N. Campbell Ave.
Tucson, AZ 85719
voice: 520-792-9591 x22
fax: 520-792-8518
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Jan 5 21:23:33 2002
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com)
Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 16:23:33 EST
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palm size
Message-ID: <13c.747ea9f.2968c8d5@aol.com>
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The mature height of a Queen Palm here in the desert can be 30 to 40 feet and
its crown width 20 to 30 feet. The mature size should be considered when
planting.
Good luck
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
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The mature height of a Queen Palm here in the desert can be 30 to 40 feet and its crown width 20 to 30 feet. The mature size should be considered when planting.
Good luck
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
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From crazgnat@hotmail.com Sat Jan 5 21:27:55 2002
From: crazgnat@hotmail.com (Natalie Nicklett)
Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2002 21:27:55
Subject: [Arid_gardener] new in town
Message-ID:
Hello, my name is Natalie, and I have recently moved to Tucson from Olympia, Washington. I am passionate about local food systems, community, herbal medicinals, gardening, and cooking. I am looking for work. I have a degree in Ecological Agriculture from The Evergreen State College in Olympia, Washington, and much experience doing community organizing, teaching, gardening, event publicity, plant medicine making, and value added food product development and marketing. I would appreciate it greatly if you could let me know of any job openings that you know about in the city have that would relate to my experience and interests.
Thank you,
Natalie Nicklett
(520)406-0356
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: Click Here
From ddifran@worldnet.att.net Sat Jan 5 21:39:57 2002
From: ddifran@worldnet.att.net (ddifran@worldnet.att.net)
Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2002 14:39:57 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200201052139.g05Ldvn05027@Ag.arizona.edu>
I believe that I am having a problem with the trees and plants in our yard due to a over or under watering condition. The landscape is relatively new in the frontyard (put in June 2001) and the backyard has only been in since Mid December. We have a Palo Verde and an Acacia tree in the frontyard. The Palo Verde seems to be doing okay while the Acacia is has dropped nearly all of its leaves over the past 2 weeks. In the back what I believe are Texas Sage are also dropping leaves (these are new plantings). The irrigation contoller was set for 30 minutes every morning and 5 minutes in the afternoon. I certainly believe that this was far too much watering so I reduced it to 5 minutes every other morning and 5 minutes every other afternoon. Our landscaper I believe set this so high because of the newly planted grass in the yard. During this time of year what would you recommend for an adequate watering schedule and did I do the right thing by reducing the watering times to 5 min am/5 min pm every other day? Thank you in advance for all of your help.
From gardenguru"
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From gardenguru@peoplepc.com Sun Jan 6 14:00:37 2002
From: gardenguru@peoplepc.com (gardenguru@peoplepc.com)
Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 07:00:37 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200201061400.g06E0bn19481@Ag.arizona.edu>
Test msg
From RkBetu@aol.com Sun Jan 6 16:22:57 2002
From: RkBetu@aol.com (RkBetu@aol.com)
Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 11:22:57 EST
Subject: [Arid_gardener] transplanting old rose
Message-ID:
I have a peace rose about 16 years old. For more than 10 years I never
pruned it and it would become so loaded with blooms I'd have to tie it up (it
was over 7' tall and nearly as wide). Several years ago, it began to shoot
new branches that were a different rose (root stock?), a deep red, single
petal. It was beautiful and looked like 2 different plants. I did find that
the "old" red stock was highly suseptible to powdery mildew and started
pruning them out. For a few years now, the bush is declining. Over 2 years
time, I pruned it back to about 3' high, but it has never done well since.
Due to other changes, it does not get as much sun. Leaves are smaller, few
blooms, little real growth. I hate to give up on it and am wondering if it
can be transplanted. How should I go about doing this? And what about the
different rose showing up (it gets more and more of this "old type" branches
each year)?
Thank you for all your wonderful advice.
Rocki, west of Sun City West
From jdoddridge1@home.com Sun Jan 6 16:46:01 2002
From: jdoddridge1@home.com (jdoddridge1@home.com)
Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 09:46:01 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200201061646.g06Gk1n29327@Ag.arizona.edu>
Could you please help me find out what kind of plant this is:
It is a small bulb about the size of a pea or lima bean. The leaves are about 2 to 8 inches long, very thin and flat. The flower is white, with 6 petals, sort of flat and simple. It blooms in the fall in Phoenix and stays green year round. The bulbs clump together and form about a 8 inch diameter base with willowy, grasslike leaves. It seems to follow the sun and is planted in partial afternoon sun.
The only place I have seen it is at work, in a gravel setting. If you can't tell me what it is from the description, I may be able to get a picture of it and email it to you.
Thanks
John Doddridge
From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun Jan 6 17:30:50 2002
From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy)
Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2002 10:30:50 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plant ID
References: <200201061646.g06Gk1n29327@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <3C3889CA.5CED72BE@qwest.net>
Might it be a type of rain lily [zephyranthes] which come in a multitude of colors? Some need partial shade and others are full sun.
http://www.elandscape.com/lvl/lvl.html?pid=zepcan
http://www.elandscape.com/lvl/lvl.html?pid=zepgra
A simliar bulb is habranthus, which also comes in alot of colors. One's flower is erect [zephranthes] while the other is at right angles to the stem.
Different varieties of each bloom at various times of spring through fall. Check out both at
http://www.yuccado.com/
Of course, if these are small, are you perhaps looking at fall blooming crocus?
Linda Guy, MG
jdoddridge1@home.com wrote:
> Could you please help me find out what kind of plant this is:
>
> It is a small bulb about the size of a pea or lima bean. The leaves are about 2 to 8 inches long, very thin and flat. The flower is white, with 6 petals, sort of flat and simple. It blooms in the fall in Phoenix and stays green year round. The bulbs clump together and form about a 8 inch diameter base with willowy, grasslike leaves. It seems to follow the sun and is planted in partial afternoon sun.
>
> The only place I have seen it is at work, in a gravel setting. If you can't tell me what it is from the description, I may be able to get a picture of it and email it to you.
>
> Thanks
>
> John Doddridge
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Jan 6 20:43:43 2002
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com)
Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 15:43:43 EST
Subject: [Arid_gardener] transplanting old rose
Message-ID: <156.6d63fba.296a10ff@aol.com>
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Rocki,
The growth you are seeing on your Peace rose is the root stock, Dr Huey
which is a single blooming climbing rose which dates back to 1914. Dr Huey is
probably the most common root stock used on roses sold in the southwest.
Because of its vigor it has probably nearly taken over your peace rose. One
way to help prevent this from happening is to prune off new shoots as close
to the root stock as possible as soon as they are seen growing. Lack of
adequate sun and regular annual pruning plus old age contributes to the
decline of your rose.
Transplanting will often help to rejuvenate a declining rose bush.
I would suggest that you cut the bush back to about 18 inches tall, have the
new hole dug, and take up as much soil as you can handle with the bush and
immediately plant in the new hole.
I'm enclosing a copy of an article that I had published in the Republic
recently on planting bare root roses.
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian
December and January is an exciting time of year for rose lovers, second only
to the spring and fall blooming time.
The nurseries will be receiving their new stock of roses in mid December, and
we rosarians all look forward with anticipation the new rose varieties. For
the best selection of varieties don't delay. If you wait until late January
you may have trouble finding that favorite rose.
You have three options as to where to buy roses: 1. Nurseries, 2. Mail order,
3. Discounters. There is also the option of buying either bare root or
potted. My preference is to buy bare root from a nursery that stores the
roses in a sawdust bin. The roots of roses stored in a sawdust bin can be
examined, and if you don't like the appearance of the roots you don't have to
buy. With a packaged rose you don't have that option. After the middle of
February my preference is to buy potted roses because they have already
started the rooting process, and the chances of survival are much better.
If you are unable to find the variety wanted locally, then your only option
is mail order.If the mail order option is used, again be sure and order
early, not only for the best selection, but you won't want bare root roses
shipped to the Phoenix area in March.
It's time to plant.Dig the hole a month before you plant if possible,
replace the soil with amendments and soak well. Do not put fertilizer in the
planting hole at this time. Most rose books recommend a planting hole of at
least 18 x 18 inches. My recommendation is to make the planting hole 30 x 30
inches, and especially if the soil is dense clay as is found in most of
Maricopa county. If you have much caliche your options are to either dig out
the caliche or to build raised beds.
It's now planting time. Soak the bare root roses over night in water;dig out
some of the planting mix, form a cone,spread the rose roots on the cone with
the bud graft 2 inches above grade, backfill and water in well. To keep the
canes from drying out mound up either the planting mix or mulch around the
canes.
January is the time to prune roses for those of you who already have them in
your garden. Basically cut your hybred teas, florabundas, and minatures back
from 1/3 to 1/2 depending on the size; cut out the dead wood, and strip off
all the leaves and clean up around the bush. It is always helpful to attend
one of the pruning demonstrations held in public rose gardens by most of the
rose societies in the valley. Watch the Saturday newspapers home section for
time and place.
Have problems with roses or have questions to be answered, call the Master
Gardner hot line or talk to one of the many Master Gardner Consulting
Rosarians.
Rod McKusick, Master Gardner and Consulting Rosarian
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Rocki,
The growth you are seeing on your Peace rose is the root stock, Dr Huey which is a single blooming climbing rose which dates back to 1914. Dr Huey is probably the most common root stock used on roses sold in the southwest. Because of its vigor it has probably nearly taken over your peace rose. One way to help prevent this from happening is to prune off new shoots as close to the root stock as possible as soon as they are seen growing. Lack of adequate sun and regular annual pruning plus old age contributes to the decline of your rose.
Transplanting will often help to rejuvenate a declining rose bush.
I would suggest that you cut the bush back to about 18 inches tall, have the new hole dug, and take up as much soil as you can handle with the bush and immediately plant in the new hole.
I'm enclosing a copy of an article that I had published in the Republic recently on planting bare root roses.
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian
December and January is an exciting time of year for rose lovers, second only to the spring and fall blooming time.
The nurseries will be receiving their new stock of roses in mid December, and we rosarians all look forward with anticipation the new rose varieties. For the best selection of varieties don't delay. If you wait until late January you may have trouble finding that favorite rose.
You have three options as to where to buy roses: 1. Nurseries, 2. Mail order, 3. Discounters. There is also the option of buying either bare root or potted. My preference is to buy bare root from a nursery that stores the roses in a sawdust bin. The roots of roses stored in a sawdust bin can be examined, and if you don't like the appearance of the roots you don't have to buy. With a packaged rose you don't have that option. After the middle of February my preference is to buy potted roses because they have already started the rooting process, and the chances of survival are much better.
If you are unable to find the variety wanted locally, then your only option is mail order.If the mail order option is used, again be sure and order early, not only for the best selection, but you won't want bare root roses shipped to the Phoenix area in March.
It's time to plant.Dig the hole a month before you plant if possible, replace the soil with amendments and soak well. Do not put fertilizer in the planting hole at this time. Most rose books recommend a planting hole of at least 18 x 18 inches. My recommendation is to make the planting hole 30 x 30 inches, and especially if the soil is dense clay as is found in most of Maricopa county. If you have much caliche your options are to either dig out the caliche or to build raised beds.
It's now planting time. Soak the bare root roses over night in water;dig out some of the planting mix, form a cone,spread the rose roots on the cone with the bud graft 2 inches above grade, backfill and water in well. To keep the canes from drying out mound up either the planting mix or mulch around the canes.
January is the time to prune roses for those of you who already have them in your garden. Basically cut your hybred teas, florabundas, and minatures back from 1/3 to 1/2 depending on the size; cut out the dead wood, and strip off all the leaves and clean up around the bush. It is always helpful to attend one of the pruning demonstrations held in public rose gardens by most of the rose societies in the valley. Watch the Saturday newspapers home section for time and place.
Have problems with roses or have questions to be answered, call the Master Gardner hot line or talk to one of the many Master Gardner Consulting Rosarians.
Rod McKusick, Master Gardner and Consulting Rosarian
--part1_156.6d63fba.296a10ff_boundary--
From HRB85373@aol.com Sun Jan 6 23:05:56 2002
From: HRB85373@aol.com (HRB85373@aol.com)
Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 16:05:56 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200201062305.g06N5un00122@Ag.arizona.edu>
I have heard that our Christmas Amaryllis can be planted outdoors here in the valley after it has finished blooming. Any information as to how, when, watering, and other details? Thank you! Hal
From Helenzbaby@aol.com Mon Jan 7 17:24:19 2002
From: Helenzbaby@aol.com (Helenzbaby@aol.com)
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 10:24:19 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200201071724.g07HOJn06724@Ag.arizona.edu>
I am inquiring about the best kind of grass to plant. I live in Yuma. We have a front yard facing east that is almost all shade ... big trees. The back yard is just the opposite with lots of sun.
Do you have any information about Dichondria? Would it make a good ground cover?
Your help will be appreciated.
Thank You
HelenzBaby@aol.com
From rtrexler@apd.maricopa.gov Mon Jan 7 20:35:55 2002
From: rtrexler@apd.maricopa.gov (rtrexler@apd.maricopa.gov)
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 13:35:55 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200201072035.g07KZtn23858@Ag.arizona.edu>
We are building a new home in south phoenix and want to have a hummingbird garden when we landscape. What plants, trees, shrubs, should we include?
From boofie@bigfoot.com Mon Jan 7 21:41:50 2002
From: boofie@bigfoot.com (Jessica Boof Wilson)
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 13:41:50 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Little Grey Bugs
In-Reply-To: <200201062045.g06Kjkn17878@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <20020107214150.32056.qmail@web10005.mail.yahoo.com>
In one of the earlier posts there was a solution to
the little grey bugs that are flying around my house.
I looked it up and found that I am supposed to put a
teaspoon of household bleach into a liter of water.
My question is: what do I do with this solution?
Water my plants with it? If so, one of my plants or
all using the whole amount? Soak the plants in it?
If so, for how long? I am really new to this whole
plant thing, and would like specifics spelled out to
me as if I were in Kindergarden... no.. no. Like I am
in preschool. :)
Thank you for your time and effort.
Jessica Boof Sizemore
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
From AZamigo@aol.com Tue Jan 8 04:23:44 2002
From: AZamigo@aol.com (AZamigo@aol.com)
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 21:23:44 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200201080423.g084Nin27834@Ag.arizona.edu>
My white grapefruit tree in Tucson has produced 20 fruit in only its third year in the ground, so I am assuming it is healthy. My question is, I will be out of town during February when I usually apply fertilizer to the grapefruit and other citrus trees. Earlier this week I spread a 3 inch layer of compost over basin and then flooded it with 6" of water. Will this provide adequate nutrients for this spring or should I put down some fertilizer spikes now. The rinds of the fruits are rather thick, which I assume is a result of abundant nitrogen. Any insight would be appreciated.
From slangaj@juno.com Tue Jan 8 04:36:42 2002
From: slangaj@juno.com (slangaj@juno.com)
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 21:36:42 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200201080436.g084agn29044@Ag.arizona.edu>
Thank you so much for your 2002 gardening calendar in the Sun Cities paper. Great, I'll post this one...Question, is the pruning of Hibiscus fall under the heading of "pruning shrubs" in January ? Also how far back do/can I prune them ??
Thank you again for the calendar..
Jim
From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Jan 8 13:01:51 2002
From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy)
Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 06:01:51 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fungus Gnats
References: <20020107214150.32056.qmail@web10005.mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <3C3AEDBF.E5E340@qwest.net>
You drench the soil with the solution, which should kill the larvae.
However, it doesn't generally address the adults that are still flying
about, so you may have to use the soil drench next month to catch any
new larva the adults may have left before the end of their life cycle.
Linda Guy, MG
Jessica Boof Wilson wrote:
> In one of the earlier posts there was a solution to
> the little grey bugs that are flying around my house.
> I looked it up and found that I am supposed to put a
> teaspoon of household bleach into a liter of water.
> My question is: what do I do with this solution?
> Water my plants with it? If so, one of my plants or
> all using the whole amount? Soak the plants in it?
> If so, for how long? I am really new to this whole
> plant thing, and would like specifics spelled out to
> me as if I were in Kindergarden... no.. no. Like I am
> in preschool. :)
> Thank you for your time and effort.
> Jessica Boof Sizemore
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
> http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Jan 8 13:06:02 2002
From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy)
Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 06:06:02 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tomatillo Seeds
References: <200201040359.g043xcn05585@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <3C3AEEBA.39BD5819@qwest.net>
I've not had problems with any source, but if you wish to purchase locally, you might enjoy Native Seed/Search in Tucson. http://www.nativeseeds.org/
Linda Guy, MG
tamhankins@aol.com wrote:
> My question concerns tomatillos. What type of tomatillo does best in the Phoenix area? My 2000 season plants had lots of fruits, a friend of mine gave me those seeds. Then in 2001 I bought some seeds from Burpee that had alot of flowers but absoltly no ftuit.I have since thrown those seeds away. Can someone help me. Thank you, Chris
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Jan 8 23:28:53 2002
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com)
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 18:28:53 EST
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus fertilization
Message-ID: <24.1efc4c11.296cdab5@aol.com>
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Since you will not be available to fertilize your citrus in February, I would
suggest fertilizing in March as early as possible. Yes too much nitrogen can
cause extra thick rinds on your grapefruit.
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
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Since you will not be available to fertilize your citrus in February, I would suggest fertilizing in March as early as possible. Yes too much nitrogen can cause extra thick rinds on your grapefruit.
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
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From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Jan 8 23:28:52 2002
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com)
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 18:28:52 EST
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Irrigation for newly planted trees and shrubs
Message-ID: <9.21639430.296cdab4@aol.com>
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Since you didn't furnish enough pertinent information on your tree size when
planted, type of irrigation system ie drippers, bubblers, with size and
number, soil type, where you live, it is impossible to make recommendations.
Also are the trees and shrubs on separate circuits or are they on the same
circuit with the grass?
For winter time watering the irrigation interval for plants is usually three
to four times that for summer. For trees and plants that were planted this
last December with the cool temperatures we have had irrigation once per
week was more than adequate provided you live in the Phoenix area.
>From the info you have provided your trees and plants have been over watered.
The irrigation interval should have been extended rather than cutting back on
the water.
Check out the chapter on irrigation in the Master Gardener Manual on line at:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
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Since you didn't furnish enough pertinent information on your tree size when planted, type of irrigation system ie drippers, bubblers, with size and number, soil type, where you live, it is impossible to make recommendations. Also are the trees and shrubs on separate circuits or are they on the same circuit with the grass?
For winter time watering the irrigation interval for plants is usually three to four times that for summer. For trees and plants that were planted this last December with the cool temperatures we have had irrigation once per week was more than adequate provided you live in the Phoenix area.
From the info you have provided your trees and plants have been over watered. The irrigation interval should have been extended rather than cutting back on the water.
Check out the chapter on irrigation in the Master Gardener Manual on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
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From WaltSi3@Yahoo.com Wed Jan 9 01:23:41 2002
From: WaltSi3@Yahoo.com (WaltSi3@Yahoo.com)
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 18:23:41 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200201090123.g091Nfn17133@Ag.arizona.edu>
I'd like any information I can get about planting gardenias outdoors in Phoenix.
From umiller@azdps.com Wed Jan 9 01:12:42 2002
From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller)
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 18:12:42 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gardenias in Phoenix
In-Reply-To: <200201090123.g091Nfn17133@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID:
Gardenias are hard to grow here. They don't like our soil type, don't care
for the heat and have a problem with the hot summer sun. They are a
high-maintenance plant.
You can go to this site http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener and
type in the word gardenias, his search and you'll see previous comments
about these pretty, but fussy plants.
Ursula Miller
Not a Master Gardener
-----Original Message-----
From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu
[mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of WaltSi3@Yahoo.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2002 6:24 PM
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I'd like any information I can get about planting gardenias outdoors in
Phoenix.
_______________________________________________
Arid_gardener mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From lindasbw@aol.com Wed Jan 9 05:21:26 2002
From: lindasbw@aol.com (lindasbw@aol.com)
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 22:21:26 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200201090521.g095LQn12099@Ag.arizona.edu>
While searching the UA document files, I found somewhat contradictory information on Satsuma plum. Specifically, some documents indicate that the Satsuma is "sweet" and "Ozark Premier of Santa Rosa can be used as a pollenizer." However, the Master Gardener Manual indicates that Satsuma is "tart" and "self-fruitful".
I'm looking for a sweet dark fruited plum for growing in Phoenix area. I'm looking to plant only one plum tree, so the tree should be self-fruiting. Is Satsuma a good choice?
Thanks,
Chris
From susyn@uswestmail.net Wed Jan 9 09:25:11 2002
From: susyn@uswestmail.net (susyn@uswestmail.net)
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 02:25:11 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200201090925.g099PBn17932@Ag.arizona.edu>
at the end of last summer my Eucalyptus suddenly turned brown - from the very top to the bottom in a short period of time (a week or so?) i also had some ground cover near the base die off completly too. any ideas what caused this? what i can do to help it out any?
it had just been thinned out by some aborists apx a couple of weeks prior - i don't know if that would make a difference. a month later (apx.) i did see some young sprouts showing up light green again, but with lower temps they have turned brown as well. wasn't very much.
From carmine@lynchbros.com Wed Jan 9 13:48:39 2002
From: carmine@lynchbros.com (carmine@lynchbros.com)
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 06:48:39 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200201091348.g09Dmcn27774@Ag.arizona.edu>
Is there a grass other than Bermuda that can survive the heat and drought of the summer months in Phoenix? Thank you.
From gardenguru"
Message-ID: <00a201c19919$8a78f6e0$a1facbd8@ibm22761658747>
Gardenias can be grow in Phx in pots or in the ground with morning sun only.
Feed them regularly with fert. for acid loving plants. That is the good
news. The bad news is that due to the high salt content in our water,
Gardenia blooms form and drop off. They do make a nice green bush but you
will not get it to bloom using our water.
Hope that helps
Gardenguru
----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2002 6:23 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
> I'd like any information I can get about planting gardenias outdoors in
Phoenix.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>
From gardenguru"
Message-ID: <00a801c1991c$8649c4c0$a1facbd8@ibm22761658747>
There are many different turfs that survive our summer heat. The best place
to see these are at the demonstration garden at the extension office at 4341
E. Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ . Western Sod has planted and maintains sections
of all the turf that will grow here. Drop by take a look.
Gardenguru
----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 6:48 AM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
> Is there a grass other than Bermuda that can survive the heat and drought
of the summer months in Phoenix? Thank you.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>
From gardenguru" <00a801c1991c$8649c4c0$a1facbd8@ibm22761658747> <001201c19937$432f0310$1101a8c0@lynchbros.local>
Message-ID: <00fb01c19939$24e29820$a1facbd8@ibm22761658747>
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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Carmine, I believe their hrs are 8 to 5 Mon - Fri but give them call at =
602/470-8086 to confirm. The Master Gardener Manual - Chapter 12 is now =
online and available at =
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/press.htm. This chapter =
covers lawns and turf for our region. This will provide you with alot of =
info prior to your visit to the extension office to see the displays.=20
Good Luck
Gardenguru
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Carmine Di Giacomo=20
To: gardenguru=20
Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 10:58 AM
Subject: Re: Turf in Phx
Thank you for your reply. What are the extension office hours that =
I can come by and look at the Western Sod displays?
Carmine Di Giacomo
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Carmine, I believe their hrs are 8 to 5 Mon - =
Fri but give=20
them call at 602/470-8086 to confirm. The Master Gardener Manual - =
Chapter=20
12 is now online and available at http:/=
/ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/press.htm.=20
This chapter covers lawns and turf for our region. This will provide you =
with=20
alot of info prior to your visit to the extension office to see the =
displays.=20
Good Luck
Gardenguru
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, January 09, =
2002 10:58=20
AM
Subject: Re: Turf in Phx
Thank=20
you for your reply. What are the extension office hours that I can =
come by and=20
look at the Western Sod displays?
Carmine Di=20
Giacomo
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From dhackett4golf@juno.com Wed Jan 9 19:44:51 2002
From: dhackett4golf@juno.com (dhackett4golf@juno.com)
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 12:44:51 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200201091944.g09Jipn21004@Ag.arizona.edu>
Crown of thorns,
My plant is two years old, It now has began to yellow and drop leaves. Is this a normal reaction before blooming. I resently repotted the plant in a 12inch by 12inch pot.
Any help would be nice.
Thank you for the time,
dhackett4golf@juno.com
From poin@gardenpro.net Wed Jan 9 19:54:19 2002
From: poin@gardenpro.net (poin)
Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 12:54:19 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] childrens gardening
Message-ID: <3C3C9FEB.58B6C922@gardenpro.net>
Lucy Bradley,
I am looking for gardening activities for children of different ages and
was wondering if this falls into your area of expertise or there is
someone else at the extension office that I could contact.
Thanks,
Kari Treadway
From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Wed Jan 9 20:44:10 2002
From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart)
Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 13:44:10 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] childrens gardening
References: <3C3C9FEB.58B6C922@gardenpro.net>
Message-ID: <3C3CAB9A.C30009AC@email.sps.mot.com>
Hi Kari,
I'm not Lucy, but maybe I can help. Here are just a couple of sites with
gardening ideas for children.
http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Hills/6160/kids.html
http://www.greenweb.com.au/garden/html/kids_in_the_garden.html
http://www.fertilemindsinc.com/gchild.html
http://www.gardengatemagazine.com/projects/kid4.html
http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/gpe/app/links.html
If you go to google at http://www.google.com and type in Childrens Garden
Projects, you can come up with a whole tons of sites with projects for
children, that might give you some ideas.
Hope this helps :)
-----
Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13
http://www.gizmoaz.com
Over 225 roses and over 135 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!!
Check out the Garden Cams on Saturday and Sunday!!
poin wrote:
> Lucy Bradley,
>
> I am looking for gardening activities for children of different ages and
> was wondering if this falls into your area of expertise or there is
> someone else at the extension office that I could contact.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kari Treadway
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Jan 9 21:31:06 2002
From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy)
Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 14:31:06 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Childrens gardening
References: <3C3C9FEB.58B6C922@gardenpro.net>
Message-ID: <3C3CB69A.576FD056@qwest.net>
You might bookmark our Youth Gardening website, which has current events
http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens/index.html
Do you have our school gardening book?
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/sch-bk.htm
Linda Guy, MG
poin wrote:
> Lucy Bradley,
>
> I am looking for gardening activities for children of different ages and
> was wondering if this falls into your area of expertise or there is
> someone else at the extension office that I could contact.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kari Treadway
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Jan 9 21:33:21 2002
From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy)
Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 14:33:21 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] MCCE Turf Display
References: <200201091348.g09Dmcn27774@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <3C3CB720.C5D2D9A5@qwest.net>
Since its outdoors, and each has good signage, you can visit the turf display or any of the other demo gardens even if
the office isn't open. Just make sure you give yourself some daylight. And don't forget that much of the Bermuda lawns
will be dormant now.
Linda Guy, MG
carmine@lynchbros.com wrote:
> Is there a grass other than Bermuda that can survive the heat and drought of the summer months in Phoenix? Thank you.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Jan 9 21:36:58 2002
From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy)
Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2002 14:36:58 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gardenias
References: <200201090123.g091Nfn17133@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <3C3CB7FA.D86FC84F@qwest.net>
In addition to the garden guru's reply, gardenias don't much like our soil or temps
or aridity either. Most who grow these will rely upon acidifying products, one is as
simple as periodically watering with vinegar diluted in water. But I agree with
guru, it's a real push in the low desert. Order our pub MC 29 for more ideas at
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm
Linda Guy
WaltSi3@Yahoo.com wrote:
> I'd like any information I can get about planting gardenias outdoors in Phoenix.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From Ann Boland"
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After successful pot gardening in Tucson for two years, I now have the =
quail eating my pansies and my herbs. They look cute doing it, but are =
doing just as much damage as ground squirrels. Any suggestions other =
than netting over everything? Thanks
Please note new street address and fax number for your records.
Ann Boland
ann@annboland.com
Integrated Learning Solutions, Inc.
2720 W. Calle Cuero de Vaca
Tucson, AZ 85745
v - 520-624-9575
f - 520.624.5436
mobile - 520-241-4838
------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C1991D.01B31760
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charset="Windows-1252"
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After successful pot =
gardening in Tucson=20
for two years, I now have the quail eating my pansies and my =
herbs. They=20
look cute doing it, but are doing just as much damage as ground =
squirrels. =20
Any suggestions other than netting over everything? =
Thanks
Please note new street =
address and fax=20
number for your records.
Ann Boland
ann@annboland.com
Integrated =
Learning=20
Solutions, Inc.
2720 W. Calle Cuero de Vaca
Tucson, AZ 85745
v =
-=20
520-624-9575
f - 520.624.5436
mobile -=20
520-241-4838
------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C1991D.01B31760--
From LATISHA.KEMPLE@CRBARD.COM Wed Jan 9 21:46:58 2002
From: LATISHA.KEMPLE@CRBARD.COM (LATISHA.KEMPLE@CRBARD.COM)
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 14:46:58 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200201092146.g09Lkwn22779@Ag.arizona.edu>
WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO PLANT SEEDS FOR A LAWN?
From LATISHA.KEMPLE@CRBARD.COM Wed Jan 9 22:52:24 2002
From: LATISHA.KEMPLE@CRBARD.COM (LATISHA.KEMPLE@CRBARD.COM)
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 15:52:24 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200201092252.g09MqOn10633@Ag.arizona.edu>
WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO TRANSPLANT A BOUGANVILLA?
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Jan 10 00:36:23 2002
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com)
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 19:36:23 EST
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvillea, transplanting
Message-ID: <13f.77cf410.296e3c07@aol.com>
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Bougainvillea do not transplant well, they do not like to have their roots
disturbed. If you are planting from a pot I would suggest waiting until the
danger of frost is past.
Bermuda grass seed can be planted after the night time low temperatures are
above 65 degrees for several days. This will usually be in mid to late April.
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
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Bougainvillea do not transplant well, they do not like to have their roots disturbed. If you are planting from a pot I would suggest waiting until the danger of frost is past.
Bermuda grass seed can be planted after the night time low temperatures are above 65 degrees for several days. This will usually be in mid to late April.
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_13f.77cf410.296e3c07_boundary--
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Jan 10 00:36:54 2002
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com)
Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 19:36:54 EST
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Eucalyptus dying
Message-ID: <12a.a5a6b52.296e3c26@aol.com>
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Since you didn't say what variety of Eucalyptus you have ( there are many
varieties ) I can only answer in generalities. Here in the Arizona low desert
we have just gone through one of the hottest summers on record and death of
the tree could be the result of inadequate irrigation.
If your tree happens to be a Eucalyptus rudis, which was popular a few years
ago, it has been found that this tree is not well suited to our low desert
will be short lived.
If the tree does not show some new growth in a month or two it no doubt is
dead.
Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
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Since you didn't say what variety of Eucalyptus you have ( there are many varieties ) I can only answer in generalities. Here in the Arizona low desert we have just gone through one of the hottest summers on record and death of the tree could be the result of inadequate irrigation.
If your tree happens to be a Eucalyptus rudis, which was popular a few years ago, it has been found that this tree is not well suited to our low desert will be short lived.
If the tree does not show some new growth in a month or two it no doubt is dead.
Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
--part1_12a.a5a6b52.296e3c26_boundary--
From gardenguru"
Message-ID: <00cb01c199e5$81a7c1a0$5ffacbd8@ibm22761658747>
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Ann, Netting is the best deterant but it is not very attractive. Milar =
bird scare tape can be place around your plants that bothers them =
alittle but it is less attractive than the netting. They do sell =
commercial spray products that is suppose to keep birds from eating your =
plants but they are only marginally effective. They also love allisium =
and Lobilia, but don't like petunias - give them a try.=20
GG
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Ann Boland=20
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20
Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 2:50 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Quail eating plants
After successful pot gardening in Tucson for two years, I now have the =
quail eating my pansies and my herbs. They look cute doing it, but are =
doing just as much damage as ground squirrels. Any suggestions other =
than netting over everything? Thanks
Please note new street address and fax number for your records.
Ann Boland
ann@annboland.com
Integrated Learning Solutions, Inc.
2720 W. Calle Cuero de Vaca
Tucson, AZ 85745
v - 520-624-9575
f - 520.624.5436
mobile - 520-241-4838
------=_NextPart_000_00C8_01C199AA.D4671520
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="Windows-1252"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Ann, Netting is the best deterant but it is not =
very=20
attractive. Milar bird scare tape can be place around your plants that =
bothers=20
them alittle but it is less attractive than the netting. They do sell =
commercial=20
spray products that is suppose to keep birds from eating your plants but =
they=20
are only marginally effective. They also love allisium and Lobilia, but =
don't=20
like petunias - give them a try.
GG
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, January 09, =
2002 2:50=20
PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Quail =
eating=20
plants
After successful pot =
gardening in=20
Tucson for two years, I now have the quail eating my pansies and my=20
herbs. They look cute doing it, but are doing just as much =
damage as=20
ground squirrels. Any suggestions other than netting over=20
everything? Thanks
Please note new street =
address and fax=20
number for your records.
Ann Boland
ann@annboland.com
Integrated =
Learning=20
Solutions, Inc.
2720 W. Calle Cuero de Vaca
Tucson, AZ =
85745
v -=20
520-624-9575
f - 520.624.5436
mobile -=20
520-241-4838
------=_NextPart_000_00C8_01C199AA.D4671520--
From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Jan 10 15:27:29 2002
From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew)
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 15:27:29 +0000
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Satsuma plum 'Santa Rosa'
Message-ID:
I do not have personal experience with the Satsuma plum
but I did some research on the web.
There are two types of plums -- Oriental and European.
Orientals ggrow better in the desert; European are not
usually recommended here. Europeans are very sweet and
may also be used for prunes. Orientals are more tart.
The regular Satsuma plum does best with cross pollination.
However, 'Santa Rosa' is a specific cultivar of the Satsuma
and it is self-pollinating.
I hope others with first-hand experience can give you
more information.
Linda Drew
Master Gardener
>From: lindasbw@aol.com
>To:
>Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 22:21:26 -0700 (MST)
>
>While searching the UA document files, I found somewhat contradictory
>information on Satsuma plum. Specifically, some documents indicate that
>the Satsuma is "sweet" and "Ozark Premier of Santa Rosa can be used as a
>pollenizer." However, the Master Gardener Manual indicates that Satsuma is
>"tart" and "self-fruitful".
>
>I'm looking for a sweet dark fruited plum for growing in Phoenix area. I'm
>looking to plant only one plum tree, so the tree should be self-fruiting.
>Is Satsuma a good choice?
>
>Thanks,
>Chris
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
_________________________________________________________________
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Jan 10 15:27:45 2002
From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew)
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 15:27:45 +0000
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Satsuma plum 'Santa Rosa'
Message-ID:
I do not have personal experience with the Satsuma plum
but I did some research on the web.
There are two types of plums -- Oriental and European.
Orientals ggrow better in the desert; European are not
usually recommended here. Europeans are very sweet and
may also be used for prunes. Orientals are more tart.
The regular Satsuma plum does best with cross pollination.
However, 'Santa Rosa' is a specific cultivar of the Satsuma
and it is self-pollinating.
I hope others with first-hand experience can give you
more information.
Linda Drew
Master Gardener
>From: lindasbw@aol.com
>To:
>Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 22:21:26 -0700 (MST)
>
>While searching the UA document files, I found somewhat contradictory
>information on Satsuma plum. Specifically, some documents indicate that
>the Satsuma is "sweet" and "Ozark Premier of Santa Rosa can be used as a
>pollenizer." However, the Master Gardener Manual indicates that Satsuma is
>"tart" and "self-fruitful".
>
>I'm looking for a sweet dark fruited plum for growing in Phoenix area. I'm
>looking to plant only one plum tree, so the tree should be self-fruiting.
>Is Satsuma a good choice?
>
>Thanks,
>Chris
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
_________________________________________________________________
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
From jkandell@twistedclicks.com Thu Jan 10 16:02:15 2002
From: jkandell@twistedclicks.com (Jonathan Kandell)
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 09:02:15 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] tepary beans
Message-ID: <005601c199f0$3eacd740$d0a20404@oemcomputer>
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I wanted to recommend tepary beans to you all. I grew some last summer, =
with some skepticism about their flavor, since they're native, grow in =
alkaline soils with very little water. I just cooked my first batch of =
dried beans and they're delicious. They have a nutty taste when cooked, =
a bit like peanuts. Definitely worth trying if you're going to do =
beans. I got my seed at Native/Seed Search, planted in July in Tucson =
and harvested in October. They grew as a low bush.
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I wanted to recommend tepary beans to you =
all. I=20
grew some last summer, with some skepticism about their flavor, since =
they're=20
native, grow in alkaline soils with very little water. I just =
cooked my=20
first batch of dried beans and they're delicious. They have a =
nutty taste=20
when cooked, a bit like peanuts. Definitely worth trying if you're =
going=20
to do beans. I got my seed at Native/Seed Search, planted in July =
in=20
Tucson and harvested in October. They grew as a low=20
bush.
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From boofie@bigfoot.com Thu Jan 10 18:13:13 2002
From: boofie@bigfoot.com (Jessica Boof Wilson)
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 10:13:13 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grass meets greyhound :)
Message-ID: <20020110181313.78445.qmail@web10008.mail.yahoo.com>
Hello,
I just purchased a wonderful new house,in Tucson,
with a huge green grass backyard. As winter came the
grass turned brown in the center, and stayed green on
the edges. Is this normal? Then much to my surprise,
I just adopted a retired racing Greyhound. We go out
and play in the yard, and when she gets excited, she
does her laps, running as fast as she cam in a circle,
for as long as she can. This is quite a sight to see,
and we love that she is doing it.... but every stride
she takes, a cloud of dust erupts from where she has
disturbed the grass. Restraining her from running is
not an option, (it is just too cool!!!) so I am asking
when will the grass that is left turn green again, I
think they said it was Bermuda, and will we need to
reseed? If we should reseed, what should we buy, when
should we do it, how should we do it, and do we need
to keep her off it for a while, and for how long? If
you don't remember I am new to all this, and would
like explanations as if I am in preschool. (maybe a
baby just walking) :)
Also, are there any plants, I like purple flowers,
that might go well with a puppy running a good 30-40
miles per hour around them?
Thank you all in advance.
Boof Sizemore
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
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From sarah.schell@stjude.org Thu Jan 10 19:53:01 2002
From: sarah.schell@stjude.org (sarah.schell@stjude.org)
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 12:53:01 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200201101953.g0AJr0n05893@Ag.arizona.edu>
I am trying to grow tomatillos in Mississippi. Since this is not a plant native to this area, our local ag extension is unable to supply much information. I tried to grow them last year, and the local insect population ate more of them than me. Can you supply me with any info regarding anything about these wonderful veggies? Specifically insect control would be particularly useful.
Thank you,
Sarah Schell
I am trying to grow tomatillos in Mississippi. Since this is not a plant native to this area, our local ag extension is unable to supply much information. I tried to grow them last year, and the local insect population ate more of them than me. Can you supply me with any info regarding anything about these wonderful veggies? Specifically insect control would be particularly useful. Really, any info you have would be very helpful.
Thank you,
Sarah Schell
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Jan 11 00:27:32 2002
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com)
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 19:27:32 EST
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grass meets greyhound :)
Message-ID: <107.b251fc3.296f8b74@aol.com>
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Boof,
Bermuda grass becomes dormant in the winter here in the low desert of
Arizona. I don't think that your dog would damage it, he might even make it
grow better. Should you have to reseed the bermuda you must wait until the
night time temperatures have been over 65 degrees for several days which in
the Phoenix area usually happens in April . You will need to keep the dog off
for at least three weeks.
I like Ruellia a purple flowering shrub which flowers spring ,summer and
fall, grows to about 3 feet tall and is quite vigorous
Good luck..
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
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Boof,
Bermuda grass becomes dormant in the winter here in the low desert of Arizona. I don't think that your dog would damage it, he might even make it grow better. Should you have to reseed the bermuda you must wait until the night time temperatures have been over 65 degrees for several days which in the Phoenix area usually happens in April . You will need to keep the dog off for at least three weeks.
I like Ruellia a purple flowering shrub which flowers spring ,summer and fall, grows to about 3 feet tall and is quite vigorous
Good luck..
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_107.b251fc3.296f8b74_boundary--
From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Jan 11 02:33:32 2002
From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy)
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 19:33:32 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Discounted Gardening Books
Message-ID: <3C3E4EFC.362708F9@qwest.net>
Each year, the annual catalog for Pinetree Garden Seeds contains a
number of books and other items at discounted and/or discontinued
prices. This year I noticed a number of books that would be useful in a
school/youth gardening environment. you might want to check it out
at http://www.superseeds.com/
Examples are
I didn't know that some plants grow in midair [$2.98]
The Sunflower [$3.95]
My Backyard Garden [$4.98]
Birding for Kids [$5.99; video]
Oh Say Can You Seed [Dr. Seuss]
There are many, many other books, including the herbal mysteries [!].
Check it out.
Linda Guy, MG
From lorinlafoe@msn.com Fri Jan 11 04:53:27 2002
From: lorinlafoe@msn.com (lorinlafoe@msn.com)
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 21:53:27 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200201110453.g0B4rRn23850@Ag.arizona.edu>
date palms: medjools particularly- at what time of the year do you fertilize a palm that is about 8 years old. What kind of fertilizer would you use. How much fertilizer would you use per tree? Once a year or more? I am in chandler.
From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Jan 11 13:56:52 2002
From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew)
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 13:56:52 +0000
Subject: [Arid_gardener] palms, fertilizing
Message-ID:
Information from Linda Guy:
As a rule, palms look considerably better with appropriate fertilization,
including some micronutrients. This is typically done in mid spring and
again in early summer. We have an excellent discussion of fertilizer in our
Arizona Landscape Palms
publication at
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf
Specialty palm fertilizers are easily purchased here in the valley.
Good luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
>From: lorinlafoe@msn.com
>To:
>Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 21:53:27 -0700 (MST)
>
>date palms: medjools particularly- at what time of the year do you
>fertilize a palm that is about 8 years old. What kind of fertilizer would
>you use. How much fertilizer would you use per tree? Once a year or more?
>I am in chandler.
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
From racbvoll@home.com Fri Jan 11 14:42:38 2002
From: racbvoll@home.com (Charles B Voll)
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 07:42:38 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hot Spot
Message-ID: <75B9E334-06A1-11D6-A737-000A27B35DB2@home.com>
I live on a small lot in Val Vista Lakes in Gilbert. I want to replace
three, too large bougainvillea growing against a light colored, two
story, stucco, south facing, house wall with, ideally, a low
maintenance, at times colorful, much smaller shrub or bush. This
environment appears to greatly restrict choices. What do you suggest?
Thank you.
Charlie Voll
From JeanSciFi@aol.com Fri Jan 11 15:08:25 2002
From: JeanSciFi@aol.com (JeanSciFi@aol.com)
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 10:08:25 EST
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: about cucumbers
Message-ID: <5f.20a60a35.297059e9@aol.com>
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From: Ohmystarss@aol.com
Full-name: Ohmystarss
Message-ID: <164.6f26c27.296f49aa@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 14:46:50 EST
Subject: about cucumbers
To: JeanSciFi@aol.com
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X-Mailer: AOL 7.0 for Windows US sub 118
I have always been taught that if you peel a cucumber the wrong way, It will
be bitter. Can you tell me if this is an old wives tale or if there is any
truth to the practice and if so why would it be bitter? I was taught to
peel from the stem down for less bitter cukes. Thanks! LouAnn
Ohmystarss@aol.com
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From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri Jan 11 15:47:27 2002
From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin)
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 08:47:27 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fw: about cucumbers
Message-ID: <000f01c19ab7$473f2da0$3b52530c@j0r9501>
----- Original Message -----
From: "olin"
To: ;
Sent: Friday, January 11, 2002 8:40 AM
Subject: Re: about cucumbers
Another old method to remove the bitter taste (that doesn't work
either)
is to cut about 1 inch off the stem end, then rub the cut faces
together
until the juice becomes frothy.
Some cucumber varieties are just more bitter than others. Stresses
during the growing period such as too little water, lack of nutrients,
high temperature or any influence that causes stunting can contribute
to
a bitter taste.
Olin
---- Original Message -----
From:
> I have always been taught that if you peel a cucumber the wrong way,
It will
> be bitter. Can you tell me if this is an old wives tale or if there
is any
> truth to the practice and if so why would it be bitter? I was
taught
to
> peel from the stem down for less bitter cukes. Thanks! LouAnn
> Ohmystarss@aol.com
From henryr@kaibab.com Fri Jan 11 17:13:17 2002
From: henryr@kaibab.com (henryr@kaibab.com)
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 10:13:17 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200201111713.g0BHDHn17710@Ag.arizona.edu>
I have tomatoe seedlings that were planted in Sept. and are about 18 inches tall. The frost got to them and all the leaves are brown. The main stem is staying green so far. Do I keep my hopes up that they will sprout new foliage in the spring time or just pull them out? The frost damage occurred around the middle of Dec.
From jkandell@twistedclicks.com Fri Jan 11 18:03:37 2002
From: jkandell@twistedclicks.com (Jonathan Kandell)
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 11:03:37 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] temps for tomato seedlings
Message-ID: <000801c19aca$b372c8c0$6aaa3604@oemcomputer>
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I read that professional tomato growers typically want new seedlings to =
have two weeks of cool temperatures (55-60). This promotes the =
production of blossoms later on. See, e.g. =
http://www.ichthy.com/~mule/Tomato/start.html. In our arid climates, =
this is a typical day temperature outside in January when we start =
tomatoes. So it sounds like we should grow our seelings outside rather =
than under lights, only bringing them in for the evening. Comments?
jk
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C19A8F.9E943B40
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charset="iso-8859-1"
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I read that professional tomato growers =
typically want new=20
seedlings to have two weeks of cool temperatures (55-60). This =
promotes the=20
production of blossoms later on. See, e.g. http://www.ichthy.=
com/~mule/Tomato/start.html. =20
In our arid climates, this is a typical day =
temperature=20
outside in January when we start tomatoes. So it sounds like we =
should=20
grow our seelings outside rather than under lights, only bringing them =
in for=20
the evening. Comments?
jk
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C19A8F.9E943B40--
From mwinternheimer@home.com Fri Jan 11 22:31:57 2002
From: mwinternheimer@home.com (mwinternheimer@home.com)
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 15:31:57 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200201112231.g0BMVvn29712@Ag.arizona.edu>
I planted 3 Pink Trumpet Vines in my Desert Hummingbird Garden. One looks very healthy and is still blooming. The other two have some new growth, no blooms and the leaves have started turning yellow, starting at the bottom of the plants. The area where they are planted has lightly filtered afternoon sun and is next to the bird bath. What could be causing two of the vines to turn yellow?
From lbradley@sisna.com Fri Jan 11 21:41:16 2002
From: lbradley@sisna.com (Lucy Bradley)
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 14:41:16 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] The Southwestern Research Station in Portal, Arizona has
openings for volunteers, cooks, and a seasonal staff assistant in 2002.
Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020111143813.01cf1d38@ag.arizona.edu>
--=====================_24438801==_.ALT
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The Southwestern Research Station in Portal, Arizona has openings for
volunteers, cooks, and a seasonal staff assistant in 2002.
VOLUNTEERS - Approximately 30 volunteer positions are open in 2002 at the
American Museum of Natural History's Southwestern Research Station in
Portal, Arizona. The volunteer program is run annually and offers students
in biological sciences outstanding opportunities to observe and become
involved with scientists doing field research.
Food and lodging are provided to volunteers in exchange for twenty-four
hours per week of routine chores, with the remaining time available for
research activities. The program is open to both undergraduate and graduate
students; the latter may pursue their own research projects. The program
is open to non-students as well, particularly in the spring and fall.
Volunteers are needed between March 15 and November 1. Appointments are for
part of this period, with a minimum appointment of six weeks. Applicants
for spring positions (March-May) should submit applications by February 15,
summer volunteers (June-August) by April 1, and fall volunteers
(September-November) may apply any time.
For applications, write: Dr. Wade C. Sherbrooke, Director, Southwestern
Research Station, American Museum of Natural History, P.O. Box 16553,
Portal, AZ 85632 USA; phone/fax: 520-558-2396; e-mail: swrs@amnh.org
COOKS - Southwestern Research Station, American Museum of Natural History,
has openings for two full-time, permanent cooks. Applicant should have
experience with all aspects of meal preparation for groups of 30-70
guests. Compensation includes housing/meals, excellent medical, dental,
retirement benefits, in addition to salary.
For more information contact: Dr. Wade C. Sherbrooke, Director,
Southwestern Research Station, American Museum of Natural History, P.O. Box
16553, Portal, AZ 85632 USA; phone/fax: 520-558-2396; e-mail: swrs@amnh.org
SEASONAL STAFF ASSISTANT - Southwestern Research Station, American Museum
of Natural History has an opening for a seasonal staff assistant March 15 -
September 2002 (end date flexible). Assist in operations of biological
research station office, nature shop, and guest rooms: taking reservations,
answering phones, greeting guests, working with volunteers in housekeeping,
general staff assistance. Five-day week; salary $250/week, plus room
(shared) and board, and medical benefits. Applicant must be conscientious,
organized, and flexible; must enjoy people, and be interested in living in
a remote setting and working with biological researchers. Biological
training an asset.
Call and send resume to: Dr. Wade C. Sherbrooke, Director, Southwestern
Research Station, American Museum of Natural History, P.O. Box 16553,
Portal, AZ 85632 USA;
phone/fax: 520-558-2396; e-mail: swrs@amnh.org
--=====================_24438801==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
The Southwestern Research Station in Portal,
Arizona has openings for volunteers, cooks, and a seasonal staff
assistant in 2002.
VOLUNTEERS - Approximately 30 volunteer positions are open in 2002 at the
American Museum of Natural History's Southwestern Research Station in
Portal, Arizona. The volunteer program is run annually and offers
students in biological sciences outstanding opportunities to observe and
become involved with scientists doing field research.
Food and lodging are provided to volunteers in exchange for twenty-four
hours per week of routine chores, with the remaining time available for
research activities. The program is open to both undergraduate and
graduate students; the latter may pursue their own research
projects. The program is open to non-students as well, particularly
in the spring and fall.
Volunteers are needed between March 15 and November 1. Appointments are
for part of this period, with a minimum appointment of six weeks.
Applicants for spring positions (March-May) should submit applications by
February 15, summer volunteers (June-August) by April 1, and fall
volunteers (September-November) may apply any time.
For applications, write: Dr. Wade C. Sherbrooke, Director, Southwestern
Research Station, American Museum of Natural History, P.O. Box 16553,
Portal, AZ 85632 USA; phone/fax: 520-558-2396; e-mail:
swrs@amnh.org
COOKS - Southwestern Research Station, American Museum of Natural
History, has openings for two full-time, permanent cooks. Applicant
should have experience with all aspects of meal preparation for groups of
30-70 guests. Compensation includes housing/meals, excellent
medical, dental, retirement benefits, in addition to salary.
For more information contact: Dr. Wade C. Sherbrooke, Director,
Southwestern Research Station, American Museum of Natural History, P.O.
Box 16553, Portal, AZ 85632 USA; phone/fax: 520-558-2396;
e-mail: swrs@amnh.org
SEASONAL STAFF ASSISTANT - Southwestern Research Station, American Museum
of Natural History has an opening for a seasonal staff assistant March 15
- September 2002 (end date flexible). Assist in operations of
biological research station office, nature shop, and guest rooms: taking
reservations, answering phones, greeting guests, working with volunteers
in housekeeping, general staff assistance. Five-day week; salary
$250/week, plus room (shared) and board, and medical benefits.
Applicant must be conscientious, organized, and flexible; must enjoy
people, and be interested in living in a remote setting and working with
biological researchers. Biological training an asset.
Call and send resume to: Dr. Wade C. Sherbrooke, Director, Southwestern
Research Station, American Museum of Natural History, P.O. Box 16553,
Portal, AZ 85632 USA;
phone/fax: 520-558-2396; e-mail: swrs@amnh.org
--=====================_24438801==_.ALT--
From lbradley@sisna.com Sat Jan 12 00:07:24 2002
From: lbradley@sisna.com (Lucy Bradley)
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 17:07:24 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] value/danger of using Bone Meal in the low desert
Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020111165711.01c74f10@ag.arizona.edu>
--=====================_24438831==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
We've had several questions lately about the value/danger of using Bone
Meal in the low desert. According to Tom Thompson, U of A Soil Scientist:
>1. Bone meal is not a very good source of Phosphorous anywhere. The
>Ca-phosphates that make up bone are quite insoluble and react very slowly
>if at all in soils to provide plant-available P. To compound the problem,
>many bones are subjected to much more intensive processing and extraction
>now than they used to be. The net effect of rigorous processing will
>simply result in less plant-available P. I don't think there is much harm
>in using bone meal, but I doubt it does much good either. The most likely
>situation where bone meal would be effective is in highly acid soils,
>where the bone Ca-phosphates would be more soluble. This situation is
>very rare or nonexistent in AZ.
>
>2. Mad Cow Disease has never been diagnosed in the U.S. We do not
>import bone meal, or ruminant byproducts, so there is no threat of
>contracting Mad Cow disease from using bone meal. I think this is not a
>likely way to contract BSE, in fact very unlikely. There is a nice
>paragraph on this question at http://lawncarp.tripod.com/madcow.htm.
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We've had several questions lately about the value/danger of using Bone
Meal in the low desert. According to Tom Thompson, U of A Soil
Scientist:
1. Bone
meal is not a very good source of Phosphorous anywhere. The
Ca-phosphates that make up bone are quite insoluble and react very slowly
if at all in soils to provide plant-available P. To compound the
problem, many bones are subjected to much more intensive processing and
extraction now than they used to be. The net effect of rigorous
processing will simply result in less plant-available P. I don't
think there is much harm in using bone meal, but I doubt it does much
good either. The most likely situation where bone meal would be
effective is in highly acid soils, where the bone Ca-phosphates would be
more soluble. This situation is very rare or nonexistent in
AZ.
2. Mad Cow Disease has
never been diagnosed in the U.S. We do not import bone meal, or
ruminant byproducts, so there is no threat of contracting Mad Cow disease
from using bone meal. I think this is not a likely way to contract
BSE, in fact very unlikely. There is a nice paragraph on this
question at
http://lawncarp.tripod.com/madcow.htm.
--=====================_24438831==_.ALT--
From juliepmc1@home.com Sat Jan 12 01:28:47 2002
From: juliepmc1@home.com (Julie M)
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 18:28:47 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] big dogs
Message-ID: <005001c19b08$7bcd99c0$6d890541@phnx3.az.home.com