From Rod McKusick" Trees that are under stress will often drop their leaves. You didn't say what time of year that you have experienced the leaf drop, but I suspect that it may not be getting enough water. The irrigation interval of once per week to 10 days should be adequate provided you deep water to a depth of three feet. Fertilizing once per year should be adequate. Too much fertilizer could also cause the leaf drop. Check out this site for more info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: skhaggard@msn.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Saturday, June 29, 2002 4:33 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I have a bottle tree in my yard that drops all of its leaves every 6 months, then it re-leafs and the cycle starts all over again. I soak it once a week and fertilize once a month, but nothing I do seems to make a difference. The tree is about 20 years old and it started doing this about 4 years ago. Any ideas? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Jul 1 01:23:33 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 01:23:33 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] holly cuttings Message-ID: I have never tried rooting holly (Ilex species) but the reference I have says they are fairly easy to root from cuttings. Remove all but the top two leaves, make a fresh cut at the base of the cutting. Fill 4-inch pots with a good soiless potting mix. Make a hole in the center, insert the cutting about 2/3 of the way and firm the soil around the cutting. Keep the pots moist and out of direct light until roots form, usually 6-8 weeks. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Don" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) >Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2002 10:15:15 -0500 > >HI >Can you help me? > someone gave me some holly cliping to plaint. >How do I do this? Do I put them in grond OR what do I do? > Thank You > Don _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From M.J.Schwarz@etoast.com Mon Jul 1 03:20:36 2002 From: M.J.Schwarz@etoast.com (M.J.Schwarz@etoast.com) Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 20:20:36 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207010320.g613KaT07184@Ag.arizona.edu> Can you suggest some low-water trees that would be good choices to block out a new building being constructed very close and directly behind half of our backyard? Main issue is there is not much space (few feet) between the block wall and our pool deck, plus we need a tree that will be very clean so as not to drop debris in the pool! We were thinking 4-5 Italian Cypress trees might work to cover the approximately 34 foot wide area, but not sure how messy they would be. Thanks for any assistance you could provide, M.J. Schwarz From jemmstar@yahoo.com Mon Jul 1 03:33:27 2002 From: jemmstar@yahoo.com (jemmstar@yahoo.com) Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 20:33:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207010333.g613XRT08165@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a grapefruit and an orange tree that came down with a scaley look on their trunks within the last week. It almost looks like a bug has eaten sections of the trunks. Both trees have sections that are about 6-8 inches wide and about 10-12 inches tall. Both trees are about 12-14 years old and just came off of a great fruit bearing season. There are still fruits left on the trees. I have pictures from my digital camera that I could show, but this site does not offer attachments. Any help would greatly be appreciated. From EPHARP@ATT.NET Mon Jul 1 11:49:21 2002 From: EPHARP@ATT.NET (EPHARP@ATT.NET) Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 04:49:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207011149.g61BnLT19586@Ag.arizona.edu> Our neighbor has an green apple tree that has done really well. Some of the apples have fallen on my side and a little tree has grown. It is about 8 fr high and about an inch diameter. For the last 2 years it leafs out about a month after it's mother tree. It has had no blossoms on it. My question is will it every fruit? Did it grown from a seed or is it from the root of the mother tree? thanks for your time From john@johnongardening.com Mon Jul 1 13:12:27 2002 From: john@johnongardening.com (John Chapman) Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 06:12:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200206201414.g5KEE1x17352@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Yes, I've seen several, and eaten the fruit. Contact Steve Flowers at his Tropical Plant nursery in Phoenix for details other tropical fruits to grow in the desert. http://www.desert-tropicals.com/Tropica_Mango_Nurseries.html John Chapman -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of markdb@cableaz.com Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2002 7:14 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Is there an avocado tree variety which can successfully be grown in Mesa,AZ which will bear fruit? If so, do they require more than one one tree to successfully propagate? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From adatech@pdbtac.com Mon Jul 1 07:12:34 2002 From: adatech@pdbtac.com (adatech) Date: Mon,01 Jul 2002 07:11:34 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] README Message-ID: <200207011411.g61EB3T12036@Ag.arizona.edu> --uehxgjq Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable The Linksys Group, Inc. WPC11 DRIVER INSTALLATION AND UPGRADE Driver Version: 0.29.10a Date Released: 08/31/01 ================================================================ Content: ------- A.) NEW DRIVER INSTALLA
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Message-ID: ScanMail for Microsoft Exchange has blocked an attachment. Sender = adatech Recipient(s) = Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject = [Arid_gardener] README Scanning Time = 07/01/2002 07:13:06 Action on file blocking: The attachment README.mp3 .scr matches th .scr/O/X1/A[Arid_gardener] README/U From copper@bargainsail.com Mon Jul 1 14:25:21 2002 From: copper@bargainsail.com (Copper Bittner) Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 07:25:21 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Apple tree In-Reply-To: <200207011149.g61BnLT19586@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: It is generally thought that modern apple varieties resulted from natural cross-pollination involving several species because modern varieties are heterozygous—that is, they do not reproduce true to type. The apples you buy in the store are grafted. It's likely that you'll get what's known as a "spitter" for obvious reasons. They do, however, hold the promise of something even better than it's parent. But you'll have to wait and see. To answer your question, yes, it will probably fruit. How long? Hard to say. Everything depends upon conditions, but usually it takes several years for any fruit tree to produce. If you like the appearance and are curious to see what you'll get, let it grow. The apples Johnny Appleseed grew were used, for the most part, as fruit for applejack. As time went on and tasty apples appeared here and there, they were grafted so that they would know what they were going to get good, sweet eating apples. Although you don't say where you live or at what elevation, there is a publication online that may be interesting to you. http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1162.pdf Good luck, Copper Bittner Master Gardener/Maricopa County Chandler, AZ -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of EPHARP@ATT.NET Sent: Monday, July 01, 2002 4:49 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our neighbor has an green apple tree that has done really well. Some of the apples have fallen on my side and a little tree has grown. It is about 8 fr high and about an inch diameter. For the last 2 years it leafs out about a month after it's mother tree. It has had no blossoms on it. My question is will it every fruit? Did it grown from a seed or is it from the root of the mother tree? thanks for your time _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From PNIMAIL1.PNI.COM@pni.com Mon Jul 1 14:29:20 2002 From: PNIMAIL1.PNI.COM@pni.com (PNIMAIL1.PNI.COM@pni.com) Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 07:29:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Report to Recipient(s) Message-ID: Incident Information:- Originator: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu Recipients: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu, janie.magruder@arizonarepublic.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] README WARNING: The README.mp3 .scr attachment you received was infected with the W32/Yaha.g@MM virus. The file attachment was not successfully cleaned and has been quarantined. If you need access to this attachment, please contact the sender. From dickcarmi@aol.com Mon Jul 1 15:01:25 2002 From: dickcarmi@aol.com (dickcarmi@aol.com) Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 08:01:25 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207011501.g61F1PT19445@Ag.arizona.edu> I have one drip line to service mesquites, bogainvilla, oleander, vines, grownd cover, citrus etc. For two years I have been watering 55 minutes every second day. It was suggested that I change to 2 hours every 4 days. What do you think? Thanks. From gardening@petmedicinechest.com Mon Jul 1 17:52:12 2002 From: gardening@petmedicinechest.com (Pet Medicine Chest) Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 12:52:12 -0500 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gardeners Are Pet Lovers Too!! Message-ID: <200207011752.g61HqCZ17930@logan1.loganet.net> You might recall hearing from us about visiting your website a short while ago and inquiring about becoming a link partner. We have many of you as link partners and would like more of our research persons to be able to get to your site. Conversely, we would love to have you come and "check us out". Pet Medicine Chest specializes in health remedies for dogs, cats, birds and rabbits. You might be researching what to do about your pet's allergies or even how to clean your facilities without taking a chance of doing any harm to your pet. We can help. Come visit us: www.petmedicinechest.com and see what we can do to help you keep your pet healthy and with you for many years to come. We do give free consultations by email or by phone. Come see us. Sincerely yours, Rose pethelp@petmedicinechest.com www.petmedicinechest.com .. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Jul 1 20:54:52 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 20:54:52 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: red-spotted leaves, Indian hawthorn Message-ID: The description sounds like it could be leaf spot, a fungal infection. Tiny reddish spots appear, usually on older growth. These spots darken and enlarge; spots are sometimes surrounded by a yellow halo. For leaf spot, remove and dispose of spotted leaves on the plant and on the ground. Do not water overhead. Provide adequate space and air flow between plants. If you have a groundcover growing under the plants, you may need to remove it and replace with a mulch. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Pete1009177@cs.com >To: drew_linda@hotmail.com >Subject: Re: treatment for bacterial gall >Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 09:21:50 EDT > >I also have some india hawthorne that the leaves are becoming red spotted >,yellow overall loooking poorly . can you help > > Pete _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From rssmryfll@cox.net Mon Jul 1 21:00:39 2002 From: rssmryfll@cox.net (rssmryfll@cox.net) Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 14:00:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207012100.g61L0dT12972@Ag.arizona.edu> RE: End rot on tomatoes peppers and squash. What is the cause of end rot on the above and how can we get rid of it in Sun City? Thank you in advance for your help. . R From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Mon Jul 1 21:48:45 2002 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 14:48:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Blossom End Rot References: <200207012100.g61L0dT12972@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000701c22149$145a8100$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> Blossom end rot is usually caused by one of two things. 1)Allowing the plants to dry out too much between waterings (mulching around the plants will help). 2) A calcium deficiency in the developing fruit which can be corrected by applying gypsum. Scott Rogers MG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, July 01, 2002 2:00 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > RE: End rot on tomatoes peppers and squash. > > What is the cause of end rot on the above and how can we get rid of it in Sun City? > > Thank you in advance for your help. . R > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From Rod McKusick" If you have recently pruned up the branches on your citrus to where the spots on the trunks are exposed to the sun, then the spots have sunburned. You can prevent further sunburn by either painting the trunks with white latex paint or a brown colored paint made especially to prevent sunburn, or to wrap the trunks with burlap or other wrap to keep the sun off the trunks. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From: jemmstar@yahoo.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Sunday, June 30, 2002 8:42 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I have a grapefruit and an orange tree that came down with a scaley look on their trunks within the last week. It almost looks like a bug has eaten sections of the trunks. Both trees have sections that are about 6-8 inches wide and about 10-12 inches tall. Both trees are about 12-14 years old and just came off of a great fruit bearing season. There are still fruits left on the trees. I have pictures from my digital camera that I could show, but this site does not offer attachments. Any help would greatly be appreciated. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From Rod McKusick" It is impossible to do justice to your trees and plants with such diverse water requirements as you have using a single drip line. You must satisfy the requirements of the thirstiest plant which is no doubt the ground cover. Since the trees especially the citrus require many times the amount of water as does the ground cover, you must be sure to have several drippers on your trees. A four to five day irrigation interval during the summer will certainly be much better for your trees and plants then the every other day interval that you are on now. Check out these sites for more info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf http://www.amwua.org/xscp-wateringschedules.htm Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: dickcarmi@aol.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, July 01, 2002 8:02 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I have one drip line to service mesquites, bogainvilla, oleander, vines, grownd cover, citrus etc. For two years I have been watering 55 minutes every second day. It was suggested that I change to 2 hours every 4 days. What do you think? Thanks. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From watsontl@mindspring.com Tue Jul 2 01:14:29 2002 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 18:14:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200207012100.g61L0dT12972@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <003201c22165$d1e42ac0$7840b83f@oemcomputer> You may actually have two different problems. Blossom end rot in tomatoes is caused by a calcium deficiency, which can happen even if there is abundant calcium in the soil. Irregular watering, or soil that dries out too quickly between waterings, can interfere with the uptake of calcium. A thick layer of mulch will slow the loss of water by evaporation through the soil. If think the soil may be short on calcium, apply gypsum. The problem with the squash may be inadequate pollination. Squash have separate male and female blossoms, and the female flowers have miniature fruit attached to them that can seem to develop for a while, then apparently rot away from the blossom end. If you haven't been seeing any bees around lately, the pollen may not be getting from the male flowers to the female. Pull a stamen from a male flower on one plant and dab it on the end of the pistil of the female flower on a different plant. You should see pollen grains stick to the pistil. Then watch to see if that squash does better. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, July 01, 2002 2:00 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > RE: End rot on tomatoes peppers and squash. > > What is the cause of end rot on the above and how can we get rid of it in Sun City? > > Thank you in advance for your help. . R > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From s2@auroranow.org Tue Jul 2 15:16:27 2002 From: s2@auroranow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2002 08:16:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] a couple summer questions Message-ID: <3D21C3CB.38CD6E37@auroranow.org> I have a few trees that continue to sucker and its making me nuts. Are there any magic recipes or tricks to control suckering? I have a young (5 gal planted in early april) Emu bush that has some sort of spider varmint weaving neat little "nets" over several branches. Simple insecticidal oil or something else? I have a beavertail that was severely frost damaged over the winter. It's young, as I had just planted it last year. About half the pads seem to have recouperated, but about 4-5 bads are brown/yellow, drooping and shriveled. Should I remove the lost pads? If so, when? Only because all we talk about here are problems, I'd like to report that one of my newly planted ocotillos (late April) is already leafing! Amazing! And 11 out of 12 of my new trees are growing like weeds. #12 is surviving, just hasn't quite decided to take off yet. My butterfly bush (davidii) is 8' and still loaded with blossoms, and the native/existing cholla that were suffering severly in the drought have completely revitalized and are even blooming this late in the season (added a separate drip line just for cacti and agave). -- Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. Vice President, Communications & Technology ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org ===================================================== "I became convinced we are here for each other." -- R. Buckminster Fuller From Jonathan Kandell" <003201c22165$d1e42ac0$7840b83f@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <004001c221eb$dd2adc40$d5c88044@oemcomputer> I too thought of lack of squash pollination. In addition to hand-pollinating in the morning, you can encourage ants, which also pollinate squash very well. jk > The problem with the squash may be inadequate pollination. Squash have > separate male and female blossoms, and the female flowers have miniature > fruit attached to them that can seem to develop for a while, then apparently > rot away from the blossom end. If you haven't been seeing any bees around > lately, the pollen may not be getting from the male flowers to the female. > Pull a stamen from a male flower on one plant and dab it on the end of the > pistil of the female flower on a different plant. You should see pollen > grains stick to the pistil. Then watch to see if that squash does better. From jadrockinw@aol.com Tue Jul 2 17:41:28 2002 From: jadrockinw@aol.com (jadrockinw@aol.com) Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 10:41:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207021741.g62HfST03802@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a rental house in Tucson Arizona. There is a large mesquite tree in the back yard. Unfortunately a previous renter decided to use the tree to support a punching bag with. They put two lag bolts (3/8 or 1/2)stainless steel into a large branch. I don't know how long these lag bolts are since I haven't done anything yet for fear of doing more damage. Should I remove the lag bolts? If so what should be done (if anything) to the holes? Thanks, John From adinfo@ag.com Tue Jul 2 13:44:36 2002 From: adinfo@ag.com (adinfo) Date: Tue,02 Jul 2002 13:43:55 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] README Message-ID: <200207022043.g62KhJT11410@Ag.arizona.edu> --lpwsjlc Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable The Linksys Group, Inc. WPC11 DRIVER INSTALLATION AND UPGRADE Driver Version: 0.29.10a Date Released: 08/31/01 ================================================================ Content: ------- A.) NEW DRIVER INSTALLA
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Enjoy the attachement
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(Administrator) Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 13:45:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] ScanMail Message: To Recipient file blocking settings matched and action taken. Message-ID: <3124f01c22209$572be620$fe00005a@central.com> ScanMail for Microsoft Exchange has blocked an attachment. Sender = adinfo Recipient(s) = Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject = [Arid_gardener] README Scanning Time = 07/02/2002 13:45:02 Action on file blocking: The attachment README.jpg.scr matches the file blocking settings. ScanMail has Deleted it. From PNIMAIL1.PNI.COM@pni.com Tue Jul 2 21:01:19 2002 From: PNIMAIL1.PNI.COM@pni.com (PNIMAIL1.PNI.COM@pni.com) Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 14:01:19 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Report to Recipient(s) Message-ID: Incident Information:- Originator: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu Recipients: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu, janie.magruder@arizonarepublic.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] README WARNING: The README.jpg.scr attachment you received was infected with the W32/Yaha.g@MM virus. The file attachment was not successfully cleaned and has been quarantined. If you need access to this attachment, please contact the sender. From s2@auroranow.org Tue Jul 2 21:21:27 2002 From: s2@auroranow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2002 14:21:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] bug infested email list Message-ID: <3D221957.6E0435C7@auroranow.org> There should be a way for the list administrator to change the set up of the list here so that anything with an attachment is automatically rejected and never is posted to the list. I have Norton AntiVirus which is catching all these viruses, but I worry that others on this list may be getting infected, and the result is even more viruses being sent to the list. Which of course, causes one to wonder whether insecticidal oil works on email bugs too, so long as the message content is about gardening? haha (as I envision everyone spraying their monitors...) -- Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. Vice President, Communications & Technology ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org ===================================================== "I became convinced we are here for each other." -- R. Buckminster Fuller From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Wed Jul 3 00:01:07 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 17:01:07 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question watering witk drip In-Reply-To: <200207011501.g61F1PT19445@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20020703000108.72344.qmail@web14914.mail.yahoo.com> First -- You should have a separate system for trees, shrubs and accent plants(grondcovers,vines,etc.) The roots of trees are about 3 feet deep. Shrubs about 2 feet deep. Accent plants1-1/2 feet deep Second-- drippers are rated in gallons per HOUR, not minutes so you must water very long when you do water Third-- you don't say how old the plants are so a schedule is not easy to establish. Assuming(I hate that word) your plants are mature, desert trees are watered for 8-9 hrs every 2-3 weeks using 6-8 two gallon per hour drippers. Citrus every 2 weeks.Shrubs 2-3 drippers and watered5-6 hours every 7-10 days depending on the plant. Accent plants every 3-5 days for 3-5 hours. --- dickcarmi@aol.com wrote: > I have one drip line to service mesquites, > bogainvilla, oleander, vines, grownd cover, citrus > etc. For two years I have been watering 55 minutes > every second day. It was suggested that I change to > 2 hours every 4 days. What do you think? Thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free http://sbc.yahoo.com From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Wed Jul 3 00:15:02 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 17:15:02 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question watering witk drip In-Reply-To: <1aa.48a2e00.2a5399ed@aol.com> Message-ID: <20020703001502.22490.qmail@web14912.mail.yahoo.com> Its your call ,Dick. But if plants start suffering and or dying, you know why. --- DickCarmi@aol.com wrote: > thanks for the info. i have one drip line and > everything is just going to > have to get along together. > > Dick __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free http://sbc.yahoo.com From watsontl@mindspring.com Wed Jul 3 01:27:14 2002 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 18:27:14 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] bug infested email list References: <3D221957.6E0435C7@auroranow.org> Message-ID: <001201c22230$c4400620$2f50b83f@oemcomputer> Make sure you spray the underside of the monitor, too, or you'll surely miss a few. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sherryl Stalinski" To: "Arid Gardener Listserv" Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 2002 2:21 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] bug infested email list > There should be a way for the list administrator to change the set up of > the list here so that anything with an attachment is automatically > rejected and never is posted to the list. I have Norton AntiVirus which > is catching all these viruses, but I worry that others on this list may > be getting infected, and the result is even more viruses being sent to > the list. > > Which of course, causes one to wonder whether insecticidal oil works on > email bugs too, so long as the message content is about gardening? haha > (as I envision everyone spraying their monitors...) > -- > Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. > Vice President, Communications & Technology > ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com > Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 > > Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org > ===================================================== > "I became convinced we are here for each other." > -- R. Buckminster Fuller > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Wed Jul 3 03:45:54 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 20:45:54 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: drip irrigation In-Reply-To: <001301c2222a$6932c160$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> Message-ID: <20020703034554.25893.qmail@web14907.mail.yahoo.com> Thanks Scott, I guess my 35 plus years in gardening and landscaping don't amount to a hill of beans. I agree, if they ask a ?? and don't follow our directions, why bother plugging up the web site in the first place. --- Scott Rogers wrote: > I thought your answer to his watering question was > well done. I just love it > when I get a question, give an answer and their > response is that they do not > want to change their current practice. Kind'a makes > you wonder why they > asked the question in the first place. > > Take care > > Scott Rogers > MG > > >Its your call ,Dick. But if plants start suffering > and > >or dying, you know why. > > > > --- DickCarmi@aol.com wrote: > > > thanks for the info. i have one drip line and > > >everything is just going to > > >have to get along together. > > > > > >Dick > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free http://sbc.yahoo.com From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Wed Jul 3 03:50:20 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 20:50:20 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] sick Message-ID: <20020703035020.18798.qmail@web14905.mail.yahoo.com> Has anyone heard how Allen Metz and David Schulz are doing??? I wish them the best. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free http://sbc.yahoo.com From Agrowb@aol.com Wed Jul 3 04:46:21 2002 From: Agrowb@aol.com (Agrowb@aol.com) Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 00:46:21 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] mailing list submissions Message-ID: <192.93c9940.2a53db9d@aol.com> --part1_192.93c9940.2a53db9d_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Pls put me on your mailing list thx --part1_192.93c9940.2a53db9d_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Pls put me on your mailing list
thx --part1_192.93c9940.2a53db9d_boundary-- From erjeter@qwest.net Wed Jul 3 05:00:12 2002 From: erjeter@qwest.net (erjeter@qwest.net) Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 22:00:12 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207030500.g6350CT23802@Ag.arizona.edu> Can you give me instructions on when and how often to trim two long small-leaf myrtle hedges that border my front yard. They are approximately 3 feet high by 3 feet wide and I trimmed them in May after they put on new spring growth. From hrdept@part-time.cc Wed Jul 3 13:29:46 2002 From: hrdept@part-time.cc (hrdept@part-time.cc) Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 21:29:46 +0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] ĎÖ´ú»ŻĆóҵµÄĐű´«ĘֶΠMessage-ID: <200207031332.g63DWWT15441@Ag.arizona.edu> Hello: (If you can't read the email,please click here http://www.jjyx.com/serve/advertise.htm) Thank you ÄúşĂŁ¬Łş ŇřşÓÖ®ĐÇąă¸ć·ţÎńŁş żÉÔÚČ«ąúÄËÖÁĘŔ˝ç·¶Î§·˘˛ĽĐĹϢŁ¬Í¶·Ĺąă¸ćˇŁ Ň» ąă¸ćÓĘĽţŁşżÉ¸ůľÝÄúµÄĐčŇŞŁ¬ÔÚąúÄÚÖ¸¶¨ÇřÓňŁ¬µŘµă»ňĐĐҵ˝řĐĐąă¸ćÓĘĽţĐĹϢ·˘˛ĽµČˇŁĆäĚصăĘÇŁş·¶Î§ąăŁ¬Ę±Đ§¸ßŁ¬ĽŰ¸ńµ×ˇŁ10Íň·â¶¨ĎňÓĘĽţ·˘˛Ľ˛Ĺ300Ł¬1000ÍňÓĘĽţµŘÖ·łöĘŰ˝ö150ÔŞˇŁąă¸ćÓĘĽţĎęϸ±¨ĽŰÇëµă»÷Łşhttp://www.jjyx.com/serve/advertise.htm ÎŇĂÇÓµÓĐ°´Č«ąúµŘÇřŁ¬ĐĐҵ·ÖŔŕĘýǧÍňÓĘĽţµŘÖ·Ľ°ÍęÉƵķ˘˛ĽĎµÍłŁ¬ËćʱΪÄăĚáą©ÂúŇâµÄ·ţÎńˇŁ»úÓöÄѵã¬¸ĎżěĐжŻ°ÉŁ¬ČĂÄăµÄĆóҵŁ¬ą«ËľÁ˘Ľ´ŐĆÎŐÉĚ»ú´«Ă˝µÄĂüÂö------ąă¸ćE-MAILˇŁ ¶ţ 70ÖÖ×îĐÂÖřĂűÓĘĽţËŃË÷Ł¬Čş·˘Ł¬·Ö¸îŁ¬ŃéЧČíĽţˇŁČĂÄúÄܶĚʱĽäÔÚ»ĄÁŞÍřÉĎÖ¸¶¨ËŃĽŻČô¸ÉĆóҵŁ¬ą«ËľżÍ»§µÄµç×ÓÓĘĽţ˛˘łÉǧÉĎÍňµÄČş·˘łö×ÔĽşµÄąă¸ćÓĘĽţŁ¬°üŔżÁ˵±´ú×îÓĹĐăµÄEmailąă¸ćČíĽţˇŁĆäŐý°ć×ܼ۸ńł¬ąýÍňÔŞŁ¬ĎÖÖ»ĘŰ450ÔŞ.(Č«ąú×îµ×ľŞ±¬ĽŰ¸ńŁ©ĎęÇéÇëĽűŁşhttp://www.jjyx.com/serve/advertise2.htm Čý ËŃË÷ŇýÇćע˛á °ďÄăµÇ½ȫÇň6000‚€Ó˘ÎÄËŃË÷ŇýÇć(ČçYAHOOŁ¬GOOGLEDµČ)Ł¬˝ř200¸öÖĐÎÄËŃË÷ŇýÇć(ČçÍřŇף¬ŃĹ»˘Ł¬Ďă¸ŰĚí´ďËŃË÷µČ)ˇŁČĂÄăµÄÍřŐľĎíÓţČ«ÇňˇŁŁ¨ł¬Öµ·ţÎńŁ¬ĚػݼŰ400Ł© ËÄ ÍřÂçĐĹϢ·˘˛ĽŁşŇřşÓÖ®ĐÇżÉŇÔ˝«ÄúµÄĎúĘŰŁ¬ąşÂňŁ¬ŐĐÉĚ»ňşĎ×÷µČÉĚҵĐĹϢ×Ô¶Ż·˘˛Ľµ˝ĘŔ˝çÖŞĂűµÄ3300¶ŕ¸öĂłŇ׹«¸ć°ĺşÍąúÄÚÉĎǧ¸öBBSŁ¬ÂŰĚłą«¸ćµČˇŁ×î´óĎ޶ČĚáÉýÄăµÄÉĚҵ»ú»áˇŁŁ¨ł¬ÖµĽŰ350ÔŞŁ© µç×ÓÓĘĽţČş·˘·ţÎńÇëĽűŁşhttp://www.jjyx.com/serve/advertise.htm µç×ÓÓĘĽţČş·˘Ł¬ËŃË÷ČíĽţłöĘŰÇëĽűŁşhttp://www.jjyx.com/serve/advertise2.htm ÇëÎđÖ±˝Ó»Ř¸´Ł¬ÓĐŇâŐßÇëŔ´ĐĹemailŁş serve@jjyx.com łĎŃű¸÷˝çĹóÓŃÇ°Ŕ´Ç˘Ě¸şĎ×÷ˇŁ Ö Ŕń ŇřşÓÖ®ĐÇ If you can't read the email,please click here http://www.jjyx.com/serve/advertise.htm Thank you From David W. Reichel" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0130_01C22268.C43D73A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable To Whom It may Concern, I am getting pornographic and virus infected emails from this list. = This is happening with increased frequency. I just received an email = that had an attachment that started to automatically install something = in to my computer. If this cannot be stopped at your end I ask to be = unsubscribed until such time as this problem is cured. Thanks David W. Reichel ------=_NextPart_000_0130_01C22268.C43D73A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
To Whom It may Concern,
I am getting pornographic and virus infected emails from this = list. =20 This is happening with increased frequency.  I just received an = email that=20 had an attachment that started to automatically install something in to = my=20 computer.  If this cannot be stopped at your end I ask to be = unsubscribed=20 until such time as this problem is cured.
 
Thanks
David W. Reichel
------=_NextPart_000_0130_01C22268.C43D73A0-- From s2@auroranow.org Wed Jul 3 15:33:16 2002 From: s2@auroranow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Wed, 03 Jul 2002 08:33:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] List problems References: <013301c222a3$70f7d920$99736244@chnd1.az.home.com> Message-ID: <3D23193B.70A462ED@auroranow.org> To all: Until our list adminstrator can change the settings to reject any post to this list that has an attachment, I HIGHLY advise to NEVER open an attachment that comes from this list. If you are using Microsoft Outlook/Outlook Express, you need to change your settings to NOT automatically open attachments (big problem with Outlook). I also highly recommend that ANYONE who uses the internet/email regularly install and run (all the time, not just sometimes) either Norton or Macafee antivirus, set to update (live update) automatically. Even if you unsubscribe from this list, viruses and porn sites are a fact of life in cyberspace. Learn to delete, try your darndest to stay off of spam lists (next to impossible) and pay attention to what you open. -- Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. Vice President, Communications & Technology ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org ===================================================== "I became convinced we are here for each other." -- R. Buckminster Fuller From crymer@Ag.arizona.edu Wed Jul 3 15:52:21 2002 From: crymer@Ag.arizona.edu (Cathy Rymer) Date: Wed, 03 Jul 2002 08:52:21 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: drip irrigation In-Reply-To: <20020703034554.25893.qmail@web14907.mail.yahoo.com> References: <001301c2222a$6932c160$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20020703084448.00badce0@ag.arizona.edu> Hi Jack, Thanks so much for taking the time to answer questions from the arid_gardener list, especially with the virus that has been circulating! Just a tip......when responding to an individual (like Scott) please send a message just to the person, and not to the entire list. This keeps personal conversation personal, and leaves the list open for Q & A. You may not have realized that your response to Scott went to the entire list. ;-) Have a great holiday! Kind regards, Cathy At 08:45 PM 07/02/2002 -0700, jack blake wrote: >Thanks Scott, I guess my 35 plus years in gardening >and landscaping don't amount to a hill of beans. I >agree, if they ask a ?? and don't follow our >directions, why bother plugging up the web site in the >first place. > > >--- Scott Rogers wrote: > > I thought your answer to his watering question was > > well done. I just love it > > when I get a question, give an answer and their > > response is that they do not > > want to change their current practice. Kind'a makes > > you wonder why they > > asked the question in the first place. > > > > Take care > > > > Scott Rogers > > MG > > > > >Its your call ,Dick. But if plants start suffering > > and > > >or dying, you know why. > > > > > > > > --- DickCarmi@aol.com wrote: > > > > thanks for the info. i have one drip line and > > > >everything is just going to > > > >have to get along together. > > > > > > > >Dick > > > > > > >__________________________________________________ >Do You Yahoo!? >Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free >http://sbc.yahoo.com >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From gardenguru" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0230_01C22270.629E0580 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Fellow Master Gardners,=20 I need help identifying a thorny weed that a friend has growing in their = bermuda lawn. I have looked in every resource avail to me and have not = been able to find it.=20 It only grows about 1 inch high and then spreads widely. It has green = leaves and stems and about every 5 inches in has a 1/4 green seed pod = with 5 sections. They are covered with small sharp thorns.=20 I would like to ID this weed in order to advise proper means of getting = rid of it other than pulling each one since they are all over his lawn.=20 Thanks for you help Gardenguru ------=_NextPart_000_0230_01C22270.629E0580 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Fellow Master Gardners,
 
I need help identifying a thorny weed that a = friend has=20 growing in their bermuda lawn. I have looked in every resource avail to = me and=20 have not been able to find it.
 
It only grows about 1 inch high and then spreads = widely.=20 It has green leaves and stems and about every 5 inches in has = a 1/4=20 green seed pod with 5 sections. They are covered with small sharp = thorns.=20
I would like to ID this weed in order to advise = proper=20 means of getting rid of it other than pulling each one since they are = all over=20 his lawn.
 
Thanks for you help
Gardenguru
------=_NextPart_000_0230_01C22270.629E0580-- From Jonathan Kandell" <3D23193B.70A462ED@auroranow.org> Message-ID: <002601c222af$46d9df60$e67f8144@oemcomputer> Sherryl Stalinski" >If you are using Microsoft > Outlook/Outlook Express, you need to change your settings to NOT > automatically open attachments (big problem with Outlook). The new version of Outlook (v.6) can easily be set to not open dangerous attachments. YOu do this from the Security menu. Get it if you use outlook! jk From ckjones@Ag.arizona.edu Wed Jul 3 17:08:41 2002 From: ckjones@Ag.arizona.edu (Chris Jones) Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 10:08:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] CANCELLED - Pond and Water Feature Seminar in Payson In-Reply-To: <4.3.2.7.2.20020620090142.00ab9500@ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: I am afraid the seminar will have to be cancelled. Due to the fire, response has been very low locally. We will try to reschedule. Thanks for your interest. Christopher Jones, Extension Agent Agriculture and Natural Resources Programs The University of Arizona Gila County Cooperative Extension 1177 Monroe Street Globe, AZ 85501 Ph: (928) 425-7179 FAX: (928) 425-0265 E-mail: ckjones@ag.arizona.edu -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Carol Noyes Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2002 09:02 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pond and Water Feature Seminar > Pond and Water Feature Seminar > July 12th, 10:00am to 3:00pm > EAC Payson Campus Community Room > > Featured speaker, Paul Holdeman, owner of The Garden Gnome in Phoenix, > will provide a special presentation on ponds and water features. The > program will cover the benefits of having a pond/water feature, the Paul > Holdeman pond philosophy, water conservation, using native species, common > problems and troubleshooting, wildlife attraction/exclusion, vector > control, location and site design and pond construction. Handouts and > lunch will also be provided. > > To cover Paul's travel expenses, handouts and lunch, we will charge $15 > per person to attend the seminar. To register and for more information, > please email me at or call the Gila County > Cooperative Extension office at (928) 425-7179. Please register by July > 8th. > > If you have a disability and require any special accomodations, please > make a request when you register. From MAILER-DAEMON@Ag.arizona.edu Wed Jul 3 10:40:34 2002 From: MAILER-DAEMON@Ag.arizona.edu (Mail Delivery System) Date: Wed,03 Jul 2002 10:40:03 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Undelivered Mail Returned to Sender -README Message-ID: <200207031739.g63HdQT29777@Ag.arizona.edu> --ocilnri Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable This message was created automatically by mail delivery software (Exim).

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Message-ID: <474b201c222b8$d5663f90$fe00005a@central.com> ScanMail for Microsoft Exchange has blocked an attachment. Sender = Mail Delivery System Recipient(s) = Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject = [Arid_gardener] Undelivered Mail Returned to Sender -README Scanning Time = 07/03/2002 10:41:16 Action on file blocking: The attachment README.mpg.pif matches the file blocking settings. ScanMail has Deleted it. From PNIMAIL1.PNI.COM@pni.com Wed Jul 3 18:00:40 2002 From: PNIMAIL1.PNI.COM@pni.com (PNIMAIL1.PNI.COM@pni.com) Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 11:00:40 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Report to Recipient(s) Message-ID: Incident Information:- Originator: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu Recipients: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu, janie.magruder@arizonarepublic.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Undelivered Mail Returned to Sender -README WARNING: The README.mpg.pif attachment you received was infected with the W32/Yaha.g@MM virus. The file attachment was not successfully cleaned and has been quarantined. If you need access to this attachment, please contact the sender. From Krulich@aol.com Wed Jul 3 18:03:16 2002 From: Krulich@aol.com (Krulich@aol.com) Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 14:03:16 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question about planting trees Message-ID: <190.93faa58.2a549664@aol.com> I planted a 5 gallon pine tree a year and a half ago, but this summer it was doing poorly so I decided to transplant it. To my surprise, the root ball completely separated from the soil below as if it was planted on a sheet of metal. It's not caliche either. Now why do the directions say to dig a hole only as deep as the root ball if the roots can't penetrate the soil below? I think from now on I'll be taking George Brookbank's advice and dig a hole as large as I can possibly dig. Tom From s2@auroranow.org Wed Jul 3 18:32:03 2002 From: s2@auroranow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Wed, 03 Jul 2002 11:32:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question about planting trees References: <190.93faa58.2a549664@aol.com> Message-ID: <3D234323.EF29A49D@auroranow.org> Tom, If you're sure it wasn't caliche, I don't think I'd be blaming the soil. I'm no master gardener, but the couple times I've experienced the same thing either digging up a failed shrub or tree or trying to transplant a struggling one, it's because I didn't take the time to unravel a rootbound plant. I now make sure I take the time to unwind wound up roots from the pot and break up/spread out the root ball so the roots are heading in the right direction to start. My guess as to why not dig deeper than the rootball to start is that after planting, the soil will "settle" and cause the tree to sink too deep into the planting hole, lowering the planting level and causing other problems with water settling up against the trunk, etc. Besides, I'm guessing roots are like branches, without resistance (wind, soil) they don't acquire good strength. Hope it has better luck in its new spot :-) -- Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. Vice President, Communications & Technology ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org ===================================================== "I became convinced we are here for each other." -- R. Buckminster Fuller From ivyl@part-time.cc Wed Jul 3 18:40:14 2002 From: ivyl@part-time.cc (ivyl@part-time.cc ) Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2002 02:40:14 +0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] ĎÖ´ú»ŻĆóҵµÄĐű´«ĘֶΠMessage-ID: <200207031845.g63IjLT13676@Ag.arizona.edu> Hello: (If you can't read the email,please click here http://www.jjyx.com/serve/advertise.htm) Thank you ÄúşĂŁ¬Łş ŇřşÓÖ®ĐÇąă¸ć·ţÎńŁş żÉÔÚČ«ąúÄËÖÁĘŔ˝ç·¶Î§·˘˛ĽĐĹϢŁ¬Í¶·Ĺąă¸ćˇŁ Ň» ąă¸ćÓĘĽţŁşżÉ¸ůľÝÄúµÄĐčŇŞŁ¬ÔÚąúÄÚÖ¸¶¨ÇřÓňŁ¬µŘµă»ňĐĐҵ˝řĐĐąă¸ćÓĘĽţĐĹϢ·˘˛ĽµČˇŁĆäĚصăĘÇŁş·¶Î§ąăŁ¬Ę±Đ§¸ßŁ¬ĽŰ¸ńµ×ˇŁ10Íň·â¶¨ĎňÓĘĽţ·˘˛Ľ˛Ĺ300Ł¬1000ÍňÓĘĽţµŘÖ·łöĘŰ˝ö150ÔŞˇŁąă¸ćÓĘĽţĎęϸ±¨ĽŰÇëµă»÷Łşhttp://www.jjyx.com/serve/advertise.htm ÎŇĂÇÓµÓĐ°´Č«ąúµŘÇřŁ¬ĐĐҵ·ÖŔŕĘýǧÍňÓĘĽţµŘÖ·Ľ°ÍęÉƵķ˘˛ĽĎµÍłŁ¬ËćʱΪÄăĚáą©ÂúŇâµÄ·ţÎńˇŁ»úÓöÄѵã¬¸ĎżěĐжŻ°ÉŁ¬ČĂÄăµÄĆóҵŁ¬ą«ËľÁ˘Ľ´ŐĆÎŐÉĚ»ú´«Ă˝µÄĂüÂö------ąă¸ćE-MAILˇŁ ¶ţ 70ÖÖ×îĐÂÖřĂűÓĘĽţËŃË÷Ł¬Čş·˘Ł¬·Ö¸îŁ¬ŃéЧČíĽţˇŁČĂÄúÄܶĚʱĽäÔÚ»ĄÁŞÍřÉĎÖ¸¶¨ËŃĽŻČô¸ÉĆóҵŁ¬ą«ËľżÍ»§µÄµç×ÓÓĘĽţ˛˘łÉǧÉĎÍňµÄČş·˘łö×ÔĽşµÄąă¸ćÓĘĽţŁ¬°üŔżÁ˵±´ú×îÓĹĐăµÄEmailąă¸ćČíĽţˇŁĆäŐý°ć×ܼ۸ńł¬ąýÍňÔŞŁ¬ĎÖÖ»ĘŰ450ÔŞ.(Č«ąú×îµ×ľŞ±¬ĽŰ¸ńŁ©ĎęÇéÇëĽűŁşhttp://www.jjyx.com/serve/advertise2.htm Čý ËŃË÷ŇýÇćע˛á °ďÄăµÇ½ȫÇň6000‚€Ó˘ÎÄËŃË÷ŇýÇć(ČçYAHOOŁ¬GOOGLEDµČ)Ł¬˝ř200¸öÖĐÎÄËŃË÷ŇýÇć(ČçÍřŇף¬ŃĹ»˘Ł¬Ďă¸ŰĚí´ďËŃË÷µČ)ˇŁČĂÄăµÄÍřŐľĎíÓţČ«ÇňˇŁŁ¨ł¬Öµ·ţÎńŁ¬ĚػݼŰ400Ł© ËÄ ÍřÂçĐĹϢ·˘˛ĽŁşŇřşÓÖ®ĐÇżÉŇÔ˝«ÄúµÄĎúĘŰŁ¬ąşÂňŁ¬ŐĐÉĚ»ňşĎ×÷µČÉĚҵĐĹϢ×Ô¶Ż·˘˛Ľµ˝ĘŔ˝çÖŞĂűµÄ3300¶ŕ¸öĂłŇ׹«¸ć°ĺşÍąúÄÚÉĎǧ¸öBBSŁ¬ÂŰĚłą«¸ćµČˇŁ×î´óĎ޶ČĚáÉýÄăµÄÉĚҵ»ú»áˇŁŁ¨ł¬ÖµĽŰ350ÔŞŁ© µç×ÓÓĘĽţČş·˘·ţÎńÇëĽűŁşhttp://www.jjyx.com/serve/advertise.htm µç×ÓÓĘĽţČş·˘Ł¬ËŃË÷ČíĽţłöĘŰÇëĽűŁşhttp://www.jjyx.com/serve/advertise2.htm ÇëÎđÖ±˝Ó»Ř¸´Ł¬ÓĐŇâŐßÇëŔ´ĐĹemailŁş serve@jjyx.com łĎŃű¸÷˝çĹóÓŃÇ°Ŕ´Ç˘Ě¸şĎ×÷ˇŁ Ö Ŕń ŇřşÓÖ®ĐÇ If you can't read the email,please click here http://www.jjyx.com/serve/advertise.htm Thank you From aaryn@Ag.arizona.edu Wed Jul 3 18:54:43 2002 From: aaryn@Ag.arizona.edu (Aaryn) Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 11:54:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] attachment test Message-ID: This message is in MIME format. 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YmFja2dyb3VuZC1jb2xvcj0NCg0KIyBXaGVuIHZpZXdpbmcgbWVzc2FnZXMs IHRoZXNlIGFyZSB0aGUgaGVhZGVyIGNvbG9ycw0Kdmlld2VyLWhkci1jb2xv cnM9DQo= ---559023410-851401618-1025722483=:11045-- From popsy97@yahoo.com Wed Jul 3 19:56:12 2002 From: popsy97@yahoo.com (Judy Braden) Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 12:56:12 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Thorny Weed ID In-Reply-To: <023701c222ab$58841b80$085494ce@ibm22761658747> Message-ID: <20020703195612.20750.qmail@web11008.mail.yahoo.com> Hi, If it looks sort of like clover then it probably is Bur Clover, Medicago hispida. Nasty little weed. --- gardenguru wrote: > Fellow Master Gardners, > > I need help identifying a thorny weed that a friend > has growing in their bermuda lawn. I have looked in > every resource avail to me and have not been able to > find it. > > It only grows about 1 inch high and then spreads > widely. It has green leaves and stems and about > every 5 inches in has a 1/4 green seed pod with 5 > sections. They are covered with small sharp thorns. > I would like to ID this weed in order to advise > proper means of getting rid of it other than pulling > each one since they are all over his lawn. > > Thanks for you help > Gardenguru > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free http://sbc.yahoo.com From mytai30@aol.com Wed Jul 3 20:02:40 2002 From: mytai30@aol.com (mytai30@aol.com) Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 13:02:40 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207032002.g63K2eT29682@Ag.arizona.edu> If a cow ate a piece of a Oleander tree, could it cause the cow to die? From copper@bargainsail.com Wed Jul 3 20:45:31 2002 From: copper@bargainsail.com (Copper Bittner) Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 13:45:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200207032002.g63K2eT29682@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Yes. Oleander has a high toxicity rating. Ingestion of even small amounts can kill. All animals can be affected, including humans. DANGEROUS PARTS OF PLANT: The entire plant is toxic. Most animals are poisoned by consuming leaves, fresh or dried. CLASS OF SIGNS: Gastrointestinal irritation, cardiac abnormalities, death (may be sudden). I once lost a horse to only a mouthful of leaves. Please be careful where you grow this plant. Copper Bittner Master Gardener/Maricopa County Chandler, AZ -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of mytai30@aol.com Sent: Wednesday, July 03, 2002 1:03 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page If a cow ate a piece of a Oleander tree, could it cause the cow to die? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From copper@bargainsail.com Wed Jul 3 20:47:08 2002 From: copper@bargainsail.com (Copper Bittner) Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 13:47:08 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oleander toxicity In-Reply-To: <200207032002.g63K2eT29682@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: In addition, please read online: http://www.vet.purdue.edu/depts/addl/toxic/plant52.htm Copper Bittner Master Gardener/Maricopa County Chandler, AZ -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of mytai30@aol.com Sent: Wednesday, July 03, 2002 1:03 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page If a cow ate a piece of a Oleander tree, could it cause the cow to die? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Jul 3 21:02:53 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 03 Jul 2002 21:02:53 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Thorny Weed ID Message-ID: Another possible ID for this weed is puncture vine (Tribulus terrestris). It has a shallow taproot with prostrate stems that radiate forming a dense mat. The flowers are yellow and leaves are divided into 4-7 pairs of leaflets. The fruit is in five parts that break apart and each section somewhat resemble's a bull's head with horn. I've been most successful in controlling it by digging out the taproot and removing the mat along with as many of the "bullheads" as you can. It reproduces by seed so a pre-emergent can stop new plants from sprouting. Roundup sprayed just on the plant, not surrounding grass and plants, can kill the mats. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "gardenguru" >Reply-To: "gardenguru" >To: "arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu" >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Thorny Weed ID >Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 09:02:40 -0700 > >Fellow Master Gardners, > >I need help identifying a thorny weed that a friend has growing in their >bermuda lawn. I have looked in every resource avail to me and have not been >able to find it. > >It only grows about 1 inch high and then spreads widely. It has green >leaves and stems and about every 5 inches in has a 1/4 green seed pod with >5 sections. They are covered with small sharp thorns. >I would like to ID this weed in order to advise proper means of getting rid >of it other than pulling each one since they are all over his lawn. > >Thanks for you help >Gardenguru _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From aaryn@Ag.arizona.edu Thu Jul 4 01:27:36 2002 From: aaryn@Ag.arizona.edu (Aaryn) Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 18:27:36 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] attachment results Message-ID: Sorry about that last test. I forgot to commit the changes. Please stand by for test #2. From aaryn@Ag.arizona.edu Thu Jul 4 01:36:33 2002 From: aaryn@Ag.arizona.edu (Aaryn) Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 18:36:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Good news about attachments Message-ID: Arid_Gardener subscribers, I have good news. While we haven't stopped spam altogether, we have disabled attachments. Any message sent to arid_gardener will be held for approval by the list moderator. This means that you can still send legitimate attachments to the list, but they won't go through automatically. And given the sound of how many bogus attachments you have been receiving, I would strongly suggest sending a personal message to arid_gardener-admin or one of the list administrators if you want your attachment to go through. So thanks for your patience. I hope this decreases the amount of bogus mail that gets received from this list. --Aaryn ---------- Forwarded message ---------- Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 18:30:46 -0700 (MST) From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu To: aaryn@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: Your message to Arid_gardener awaits moderator approval Your mail to 'Arid_gardener' with the subject attachment test #2 Is being held until the list moderator can review it for approval. The reason it is being held: Message has a suspicious header Either the message will get posted to the list, or you will receive notification of the moderator's decision. From choochooryan@msn.com Thu Jul 4 01:38:14 2002 From: choochooryan@msn.com (choochooryan@msn.com) Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 18:38:14 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207040138.g641cET25547@Ag.arizona.edu> My cactus has been in the ground for about 7 years and they seem to be turning yellow. Is it too much or too little water. They are not on a drip system Thanks From watsontl@mindspring.com Thu Jul 4 01:59:39 2002 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 18:59:39 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question about planting trees References: <190.93faa58.2a549664@aol.com> <3D234323.EF29A49D@auroranow.org> Message-ID: <003e01c222fe$762ea080$a268b83f@oemcomputer> I've been using Brookbank's method in my own yard and in the yards owned by family members, and it makes a big difference. Two things to make sure of: to avoid "settling" problems, firmly tamp down the soil in the bottom of the hole that will be under the root ball and water far enough out that the roots are not 'encouraged' to stay forever in the old neighborhood. Roots won't grow out into dry soil, no matter how well amended that soil might be. Tom (not the Tom asking the question) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sherryl Stalinski" To: Cc: Sent: Wednesday, July 03, 2002 11:32 AM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question about planting trees > Tom, > If you're sure it wasn't caliche, I don't think I'd be blaming the soil. > I'm no master gardener, but the couple times I've experienced the same > thing either digging up a failed shrub or tree or trying to transplant a > struggling one, it's because I didn't take the time to unravel a > rootbound plant. I now make sure I take the time to unwind wound up > roots from the pot and break up/spread out the root ball so the roots > are heading in the right direction to start. > > My guess as to why not dig deeper than the rootball to start is that > after planting, the soil will "settle" and cause the tree to sink too > deep into the planting hole, lowering the planting level and causing > other problems with water settling up against the trunk, etc. Besides, > I'm guessing roots are like branches, without resistance (wind, soil) > they don't acquire good strength. > > Hope it has better luck in its new spot :-) > -- > Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. > Vice President, Communications & Technology > ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com > Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 > > Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org > ===================================================== > "I became convinced we are here for each other." > -- R. Buckminster Fuller > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From phylpat@aol.com Thu Jul 4 02:57:56 2002 From: phylpat@aol.com (phylpat@aol.com) Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 19:57:56 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207040257.g642vuT01898@Ag.arizona.edu> alleppo pines, do they require pruning to limit height, should the trunk be pruned from the ground up to a certain height ? thank you for your advice. From Alelopathy@aol.com Thu Jul 4 11:07:50 2002 From: Alelopathy@aol.com (Alelopathy@aol.com) Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2002 07:07:50 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bird Baths Message-ID: <189.a2ad0ab.2a558686@aol.com> I heard or read that if the water in the bird bath isn't changed every day, and a drop of two of bleach isn't added, a bacteria develops that kills our doves. Apparently it, the bacteria, prevents them from swallowing. My questions are: 1. Is this true? 2. What is the name of the bacteria? Puleeez. . . don't refer me to a web site. Thank you, Glenna Phillips, Master Gardener From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Jul 4 13:43:45 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 04 Jul 2002 13:43:45 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bird Baths Message-ID: Tips for a Healthy Bird Bath * Don't situate bird baths under feeders or perches, where droppings can fall into them. * Rinse and scrub birdbaths daily in summer, or whenever they become fouled with bird droppings. Once a month, scrub out with a light bleach solution (1/4 cup of bleach in 2 gallons of water), rinse thoroughly and refill. * Do not add bleach to the water in the birdbath. Several diseases could be spread in unclean water, but one that is commonly seen in doves is trichomoniasis, a fungus-like growth, yellow in color, in the mouth. Eventually, the bird can no longer swallow and starves to death. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Alelopathy@aol.com >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bird Baths >Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2002 07:07:50 EDT > >I heard or read that if the water in the bird bath isn't changed every day, >and a drop of two of bleach isn't added, a bacteria develops that kills our >doves. Apparently it, the bacteria, prevents them from swallowing. > >My questions are: > > 1. Is this true? > > 2. What is the name of the bacteria? > >Puleeez. . . don't refer me to a web site. > >Thank you, >Glenna Phillips, Master Gardener >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Jul 4 13:57:25 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 04 Jul 2002 13:57:25 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Aleppo pine, pruning Message-ID: The references I checked indicate aleppo pine are not pruned, except to remove deadwood or hazards such as entangling in power lines. These are large trees when fully grown. Some lower branches can be removed but don't remove more that 15% of total growth and prune in winter. No trees should ever be "topped", cutting out the top of the tree. For more information on pruning, checkthis site: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/pruning Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: phylpat@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 19:57:56 -0700 (MST) > > alleppo pines, do they require pruning to limit height, should the trunk >be pruned from the ground up to a certain height ? thank you for your >advice. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Jul 4 14:04:28 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 04 Jul 2002 14:04:28 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] cactus turning yellow Message-ID: In Tucson, we have had no measureable rain for more than 90 days and cactus are dying. If you live in the low or mid-deserts in Arizona and you have not provided any supplemental water to cactus, the yellowing could be due to too little water. Are the cactus planted near areas that do receive regular irrigation? If so, they may be getting some supplemental water from that source. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: choochooryan@msn.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 18:38:14 -0700 (MST) > >My cactus has been in the ground for about 7 years and they seem to be >turning yellow. Is it too much or too little water. They are not on a drip >system Thanks > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From lajgaines@msn.com Thu Jul 4 15:13:05 2002 From: lajgaines@msn.com (lajgaines@msn.com) Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2002 08:13:05 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207041513.g64FD5T06280@Ag.arizona.edu> I have 2 questions: Is there a place that I can take a sample of my garden soil to have it tested to let me know what it needs. I have tomatoes planted and each year the yeild seems to have gone down. I add fertilizers each end of my growing seasons but as I said my yeild has really gone down. Also is there anything that can get rid of burmuda grass in my garden. About 8 years ago before we put the garden in it was grass and we think we pull all the roots out each year but the grass takes over. I know there are products to rid it but I also want to be able to plant my garden each January. Thanks for any feed back From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Jul 4 15:47:36 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 04 Jul 2002 15:47:36 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] soil testing, killing bermuda grass Message-ID: For a list of soil testing labs in ther Phoenix area, go to: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/soiltest.htm (there is a fee for this service). In general, soils here in the arid southwest are alkaline and low in organic matter. You mentioned that you add fertilizer. Do you add organic matter? You need to add 3-4 inches of organic matter twice a year if you are actively growing in that area. You could also plant a cover crop like fava beans and turn it into the soil to increase organic content. Also, tomatoes can develop diseases, so it is a good idea to rotate plantings -- don't plant tomatoes or their relatives (potatoes, eggplant, etc) in the same area year after year. Bermuda grass is persistent and tough. You can pull it every time you see it, but will probably have to use something like Roundup on the actively growing grass to kill it (make sure you don't let Roundup spray drift on to other plants). Roundup would not affect new plantings in areas where it has been used in the past. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: lajgaines@msn.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2002 08:13:05 -0700 (MST) > >I have 2 questions: Is there a place that I can take a sample of my garden >soil to have it tested to let me know what it needs. I have tomatoes >planted and each year the yeild seems to have gone down. I add fertilizers >each end of my growing seasons but as I said my yeild has really gone down. > > >Also is there anything that can get rid of burmuda grass in my garden. >About 8 years ago before we put the garden in it was grass and we think we >pull all the roots out each year but the grass takes over. I know there are >products to rid it but I also want to be able to plant my garden each >January. > >Thanks for any feed back > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From Prttyeys61@aol.com Thu Jul 4 19:07:56 2002 From: Prttyeys61@aol.com (Prttyeys61@aol.com) Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2002 12:07:56 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207041907.g64J7uT26829@Ag.arizona.edu> I have some gnat or fly type of bugs in my houseplants. What are they and how do I get rid of them? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Jul 4 21:02:18 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 04 Jul 2002 21:02:18 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] fungus gnats in houseplants Message-ID: DESCRIPTION: Fungus gnats are small gray flies that periodically emerge from potted plants. DAMAGE: The gnats may be a nuisance when flying to windows, but do no harm to humans. Most kinds feed on organic matter in the soil. MANAGEMENT: To reduce their numbers, re-pot the plant into soil less rich in organic matter, let the plant dry out sufficiently between waterings and set plants outdoors when adult gnats are emerging. Vacuum up any adult gnats attracted to lights or windows. Here is a recipe for a soil drench to control them: Most of us have some homemade recipe to handle fungus gnats. A single drench is usually not enough...you may drown the larvae but there might still be adults around to lay more eggs. If push comes to shove, you may need to toss all the soil and start afresh. Here's a response we once posted from MG Pauline Marx: Fungus gnats can be eliminated with a soil drench of: 1 quart warm water 2 Tablespoons commercial insecticidal soap Drench the soil without wetting the foliage This can be done once a month until you no longer have the problem Another mixture is 1 quart warm water 1 teaspoon liquid household bleach I personally have also used a purchased product from an organic supply catalog with some success. Our own website discusses the problem at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/gnats.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener >From: Prttyeys61@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2002 12:07:56 -0700 (MST) > >I have some gnat or fly type of bugs in my houseplants. What are they and >how do I get rid of them? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From malton@lvcm.com Thu Jul 4 22:15:54 2002 From: malton@lvcm.com (Mark A. Melton) Date: Thu, 04 Jul 2002 15:15:54 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Creosote bush sprouts Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020704151528.02488e60@ag.arizona.edu> I'm trying to grow creosote bushes (Larrea tridentata) from seeds. I have fair luck getting them to germinate and grow to about 1-1.5 inches in hight. Then they get spindly, quit growing and die. I know that L. tridentata requires caliche soils. I've tried more water, less water, more sun, less sun, plastic cover, no cover, different soils. They seem to like more light up to a point, but direct sun makes them shrivel up quickly. I can't imagine how anything so fussy could possibly survive in the lower desert, much less be the most common plant in many places. I'm hoping you might have some hints on how to get them past the seedling stage and up to something I can put out in the yard. They grow all around us here, but our area was scraped clean before our house was built and nothing natural was left. I love that spicey odor after a rain! TIA Sincerely, Mark A. Melton Henderson, NV malton@lvcm.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Jul 4 23:15:11 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 04 Jul 2002 23:15:11 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Creosote bush sprouts Message-ID: A web search found this information: http://helios.bto.ed.ac.uk/bto/desbiome/larrea.htm The creosote bush thrives on well-drained areas of flat or sloping land - often with an underlying compacted soil layer of calcium (called caliche). Beneath the gravelly surface the soil consists of tightly packed sand and silt particles, with very little organic matter. These soils do not retain much water. pH is alkaline (inhibitory to most plants) and the annual rainfall is less than 25 cm. Almost all this rain falls as short, intense showers. The surface soil quickly becomes saturated by rain, and the packed soil particles prevent rapid water penetration, so much of the water runs off of the surface in flash floods. As a consequence, the only permanent plants (such as creosote bush) are those with extensive and deep root systems and with special adaptations to survive long periods of intense heat and drought. ----- http://www.desertusa.com/creoste.html How to grow from seeds. Place several of these seed capsules in a shallow pan cover with boiling water. Let them soak over night, and then place a few seed capsules in a pot with soil and start to water. Thin out the extra seedlings and plant. ----- I wonder if the seedlings die if they are unable to put out deep roots. Are you growing them in the ground or in containers? Apparently, transplanting even small creosote plants is difficult, perhaps because of the relatively deep root system. You might want to contact this group currently doing research on propagation: Soil Ecology and Restoration Group: http://www.serg.sdsu.edu/SERG/ Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Mark A. Melton" (by way of Lucy Bradley >) >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Creosote bush sprouts >Date: Thu, 04 Jul 2002 15:15:54 -0700 > >I'm trying to grow creosote bushes (Larrea tridentata) from seeds. I >have fair luck getting them to germinate and grow to about 1-1.5 inches >in hight. Then they get spindly, quit growing and die. I know that L. >tridentata requires caliche soils. I've tried more water, less water, more >sun, less sun, plastic cover, no cover, different soils. They seem to like >more light up to a point, but direct sun makes them shrivel up quickly. I >can't imagine how anything so fussy could possibly survive in the lower >desert, much less be the most common plant in many places. I'm >hoping you might have some hints on how to get them past the seedling >stage and up to something I can put out in the yard. They grow all >around us here, but our area was scraped clean before our house was >built and nothing natural was left. I love that spicey odor after a rain! >TIA >Sincerely, >Mark A. Melton >Henderson, NV >malton@lvcm.com > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Soil Ecology and Restoration Group: http://www.serg.sdsu.edu/SERG/ _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From kieferguthrie@compuserve.com Fri Jul 5 16:26:15 2002 From: kieferguthrie@compuserve.com (kieferguthrie@compuserve.com) Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2002 09:26:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207051626.g65GQFT23976@Ag.arizona.edu> Our big century plant flowered and now the huge stalk is bending over toward the ground, with hundreds of small plants along it. I'd like to propagate some of these pups to make new plants -- exactly how do I do this? What planting medium? Do they need to be hardened off? How fast will they grow? Do they need a lot of light/moisture while small? I searched online but couldn't find anything specific on this topic. From jdrox@cox.net Fri Jul 5 17:08:12 2002 From: jdrox@cox.net (jdrox@cox.net) Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2002 10:08:12 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207051708.g65H8CT01270@Ag.arizona.edu> Hello, I have a digital image of a palm that I'm trying to identify so I can plant another of the same next to it. It looks like a windmill palm, but I'm not sure. I can send the shot in an attachment. Thanks! R. From gardening@petmedicinechest.com Fri Jul 5 18:16:38 2002 From: gardening@petmedicinechest.com (Pet Medicine Chest) Date: Fri, 05 Jul 2002 13:16:38 -0500 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gardeners Are Pet Lovers Too!! Message-ID: You might recall hearing from us about visiting your website a short while ago and inquiring about becoming a link partner. We have many of you as link partners and would like more of our research persons to be able to get to your site. Conversely, we would love to have you come and "check us out". Pet Medicine Chest specializes in health remedies for dogs, cats, birds and rabbits. You might be researching what to do about your pet's allergies or even how to clean your facilities without taking a chance of doing any harm to your pet. We can help. Come visit us: www.petmedicinechest.com and see what we can do to help you keep your pet healthy and with you for many years to come. We do give free consultations by email or by phone. Come see us. Sincerely yours, Rose pethelp@petmedicinechest.com www.petmedicinechest.com .. From copper@bargainsail.com Fri Jul 5 22:06:36 2002 From: copper@bargainsail.com (Copper Bittner) Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2002 15:06:36 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] agave bulbil propagation In-Reply-To: <200207051626.g65GQFT23976@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: The agave that's usually known as a century plant is the Agave americana and does not have bulbils on its stalk. It's stalk grows to about 20' with white flowers before it dies reproduces by offsets. I'm not sure which agave you have, but agave bulbils can usually be successfully propagated in pumice. With our record breaking heat, I would keep them out of direct sunlight for awhile, though. The problem with common names is you don't always know what you have! Good luck, Copper Bittner Master Gardener/Maricopa County Chandler, AZ -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of kieferguthrie@compuserve.com Sent: Friday, July 05, 2002 9:26 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our big century plant flowered and now the huge stalk is bending over toward the ground, with hundreds of small plants along it. I'd like to propagate some of these pups to make new plants -- exactly how do I do this? What planting medium? Do they need to be hardened off? How fast will they grow? Do they need a lot of light/moisture while small? I searched online but couldn't find anything specific on this topic. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From s2@auroranow.org Fri Jul 5 22:29:45 2002 From: s2@auroranow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Fri, 05 Jul 2002 15:29:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] agave bulbil propagation References: Message-ID: <3D261DD9.1E6D1F9A@auroranow.org> Now, see... I always thought "century plant" referred to parry's agave (that's the one with the awesome branched yellow flowers that look like something out of a Doctor Seuss book, correct?). Jeanne confirmed my guess that what she has is an octopus agave. Our neighbor propogated his in native sand and gave me a whole flat full, 3/4 of which are thriving, rooting and growing on a weekly soak. (I'm in Tucson, though, so our "record heat" probably isn't as bad as Cave Creek, so some shade/part shade does sound like a good idea.) Now that ya got me doubting that I know at least some of my agaves , what is the botanical name for the blue/silver agave? (the big guy that generates pups regularly, and I see as large as 4 feet and more?) -- Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. Vice President, Communications & Technology ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org ===================================================== "I became convinced we are here for each other." -- R. Buckminster Fuller From mikep@ci.gilbert.az.us Fri Jul 5 22:46:18 2002 From: mikep@ci.gilbert.az.us (mikep@ci.gilbert.az.us) Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2002 15:46:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207052246.g65MkIT19125@Ag.arizona.edu> What are the time a citrus needs to be feed ? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Jul 5 23:12:01 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 05 Jul 2002 23:12:01 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] time to fertilize citrus Message-ID: Traditionally, citrus are fed 2-3 times a year: Valentine's Day (mid-February) 1/2 of amount Memorial Day (late May) 1/4 of amount Labor Day (late August or early September) 1/4 of amount Amount depends on the age of the trees; 5 years and older generally get 1 to 2 pounds of nitrogen (calculated by multiplying the percentage of nitrogen times the weight of the fertilizer purchased) per year. Many citrus fertilizers will explain application on the package. You can use ammonium sulphate (nitrogen) fertilizer plus chelated iron and/or zinc if the citrus shows a nutrient deficiency for these. Or you can purchase a citrus food fertilizer that contains micronutrients. Water before fertilizing and after fertilizing. Young citrus may need no fertilization for the first 1-2 years. If a tree appears healthy and vigorously growing, you may skip some of the fertilization. Too much nitrogen can cause extra thick rinds on your grapefruit. Very young trees may also have thick rinds on fruit. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: mikep@ci.gilbert.az.us >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2002 15:46:18 -0700 (MST) > > What are the time a citrus needs to be feed ? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From copper@bargainsail.com Fri Jul 5 23:36:10 2002 From: copper@bargainsail.com (Copper Bittner) Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2002 16:36:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] When to fertilize citrus In-Reply-To: <200207052246.g65MkIT19125@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Citrus trees should be fertilized in February, May and July. Copper Bittner Master Gardener/Maricopa County Chandler, AZ -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of mikep@ci.gilbert.az.us Sent: Friday, July 05, 2002 3:46 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What are the time a citrus needs to be feed ? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sturico@cox.net Sat Jul 6 01:43:28 2002 From: sturico@cox.net (sturico@cox.net) Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2002 18:43:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207060143.g661hST06931@Ag.arizona.edu> I am planning to remove a bermudagrass lawn & replace it with xeriscape and a flagstone patio. A landscaper suggested using "Reward" along with scalping the lawn. He also strongly suggested using either plastic or a mesh product under the stone in the renovated area to prevent the grass from reemerging. I thought "Roundup" was typically used to kill bermudagrass (is Reward more toxic than Roundup?)...and that the use of plastic or any other material under stone was not recommended. Thanks for your advice. From cpramsey@pacbell.net Sat Jul 6 18:37:20 2002 From: cpramsey@pacbell.net (cpramsey@pacbell.net) Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2002 11:37:20 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207061837.g66IbJT00892@Ag.arizona.edu> I was recently on a trip through Arizona. At a rest stop, I picked up several seed pods of the Palo Verde. Is it possible to grow these into mature trees over a period of time? And if so, how does one go about it? I live in San Diego, in a mixed semi arid climate between the coast and mountains. Temp range is typically 35f - 95f. Thank you, Chuck From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Jul 6 22:13:11 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 06 Jul 2002 22:13:11 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Reward herbicide, plastic under flagstone Message-ID: I am not familiar with "Reward". Here is some information form the web (http://www.zenecaprofprod.com/labels/): Nonvolatile herbicidal chemical for use as a general herbicide to control weeds in noncrop areas. Active Ingredient Diquat dibromide (http://ace.ace.orst.edu/info/extoxnet/pips/diquatdi.htm) * Breakdown in vegetation: Diquat dibromide is rapidly absorbed into the leaves of plants, but usually kills the plant tissues necessary for translocation too quickly to allow movement to other parts of the plant. The herbicide interferes with cell respiration, the process by which plants produce energy. Diquat dibromide is broken down on the plant surface by photochemical degradation [58]. It is rapidly absorbed by aquatic weeds from the surrounding water and concentrated in the plant tissue [8]. Thus, even low concentrations of the herbicide can control aquatic weeds [8]. --- Based on that information, I would suggest the traditional method of using Roundup in 2 or 3 applications to vigorously growing and well-irrigated lawn would be more effective. In the arid southwest, mesh or plastic are not recommended to control weeds. Applications of a good pre-emergent twice a year is a more effective way to control weeds. You may want to visit your local Cooperative Extension Office (list in the County pages if your phone book) for their recommendations for your particular situation. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: sturico@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2002 18:43:28 -0700 (MST) > >I am planning to remove a bermudagrass lawn & replace it with xeriscape and >a flagstone patio. A landscaper suggested using "Reward" along with >scalping the lawn. He also strongly suggested using either plastic or a >mesh product under the stone in the renovated area to prevent the grass >from reemerging. I thought "Roundup" was typically used to kill >bermudagrass (is Reward more toxic than Roundup?)...and that the use of >plastic or any other material under stone was not recommended. > >Thanks for your advice. > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Jul 6 22:19:49 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 06 Jul 2002 22:19:49 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] palo verde seed Message-ID: I think you should be able to grow these trees in your location. At least it is worth a try. Remove the seed from the pod and nick through the hard seedcoat with a knife or awl. Soak the seeds in water for 24 hours and plant in a good-draining potting mix. Keep moist and out of full sun. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: cpramsey@pacbell.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2002 11:37:20 -0700 (MST) > >I was recently on a trip through Arizona. At a rest stop, I picked up >several seed pods of the Palo Verde. Is it possible to grow these into >mature trees over a period of time? And if so, how does one go about it? >I live in San Diego, in a mixed semi arid climate between the coast and >mountains. Temp range is typically 35f - 95f. Thank you, Chuck > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From watsontl@mindspring.com Sat Jul 6 23:57:01 2002 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2002 16:57:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] palo verde seed References: Message-ID: <005501c22548$d3654e60$9130b83f@oemcomputer> A suggestion for scarification: because the seed coats of these seeds are so smooth and hard, nicking with a knife or awl can be risky. Scratching with a small file or rubbing the seeds with fine sandpaper until the shine is gone from a small patch of the seed works very well, and is not as likely to result in bloodshed. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Linda Drew" To: ; Sent: Saturday, July 06, 2002 3:19 PM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] palo verde seed > > I think you should be able to grow these trees in your location. > At least it is worth a try. > > Remove the seed from the pod and nick through the hard seedcoat > with a knife or awl. Soak the seeds in water for 24 hours and > plant in a good-draining potting mix. Keep moist and out of full > sun. > > Linda Drew > Master Gardener > > >From: cpramsey@pacbell.net > >To: > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2002 11:37:20 -0700 (MST) > > > >I was recently on a trip through Arizona. At a rest stop, I picked up > >several seed pods of the Palo Verde. Is it possible to grow these into > >mature trees over a period of time? And if so, how does one go about it? > >I live in San Diego, in a mixed semi arid climate between the coast and > >mountains. Temp range is typically 35f - 95f. Thank you, Chuck > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Arid_gardener mailing list > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Join the world's largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. > http://www.hotmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From salsa85014@yahoo.com Sun Jul 7 04:08:17 2002 From: salsa85014@yahoo.com (salsa85014@yahoo.com) Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2002 21:08:17 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207070408.g6748HT13887@Ag.arizona.edu> Help! I planted bare roor roses last year and they are being eaten alive. I have tried Sevin dust and commerical rose spay but nothing is working. thanks!!! Robin From tsolutions@hknet.com Sun Jul 7 04:32:42 2002 From: tsolutions@hknet.com (tsolutions@hknet.com ) Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 12:32:42 +0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] ĎÖ´ú»ŻĆóҵµÄĐű´«ĘֶΠMessage-ID: <200207070434.g674YRT15402@Ag.arizona.edu> Hello: (If you can't read the email,please click here http://www.jjyx.com/serve/advertise.htm) Thank you ÄúşĂŁşŁş ŇřşÓÖ®ĐÇąă¸ć·ţÎńŁş żÉÔÚČ«ąúÄËÖÁĘŔ˝ç·¶Î§·˘˛ĽĐĹϢŁ¬Í¶·Ĺąă¸ćˇŁ Ň» ąă¸ćÓĘĽţŁşżÉ¸ůľÝÄúµÄĐčŇŞŁ¬ÔÚąúÄÚÖ¸¶¨ÇřÓňŁ¬µŘµă»ňĐĐҵ˝řĐĐąă¸ćÓĘĽţĐĹϢ·˘˛ĽµČˇŁĆäĚصăĘÇŁş·¶Î§ąăŁ¬Ę±Đ§¸ßŁ¬ĽŰ¸ńµ×ˇŁ10Íň·â¶¨ĎňÓĘĽţ·˘˛Ľ˛Ĺ300Ł¬1000ÍňÓĘĽţµŘÖ·łöĘŰ˝ö150ÔŞˇŁąă¸ćÓĘĽţĎęϸ±¨ĽŰÇëµă»÷Łşhttp://www.jjyx.com/serve/advertise.htm ÎŇĂÇÓµÓĐ°´Č«ąúµŘÇřŁ¬ĐĐҵ·ÖŔŕĘýǧÍňÓĘĽţµŘÖ·Ľ°ÍęÉƵķ˘˛ĽĎµÍłŁ¬ËćʱΪÄăĚáą©ÂúŇâµÄ·ţÎńˇŁ»úÓöÄѵã¬¸ĎżěĐжŻ°ÉŁ¬ČĂÄăµÄĆóҵŁ¬ą«ËľÁ˘Ľ´ŐĆÎŐÉĚ»ú´«Ă˝µÄĂüÂö------ąă¸ćE-MAILˇŁ ¶ţ 70ÖÖ×îĐÂÖřĂűÓĘĽţËŃË÷Ł¬Čş·˘Ł¬·Ö¸îŁ¬ŃéЧČíĽţˇŁČĂÄúÄܶĚʱĽäÔÚ»ĄÁŞÍřÉĎÖ¸¶¨ËŃĽŻČô¸ÉĆóҵŁ¬ą«ËľżÍ»§µÄµç×ÓÓĘĽţ˛˘łÉǧÉĎÍňµÄČş·˘łö×ÔĽşµÄąă¸ćÓĘĽţŁ¬°üŔżÁ˵±´ú×îÓĹĐăµÄEmailąă¸ćČíĽţˇŁĆäŐý°ć×ܼ۸ńł¬ąýÍňÔŞŁ¬ĎÖÖ»ĘŰ450ÔŞ.(Č«ąú×îµ×ľŞ±¬ĽŰ¸ńŁ©ĎęÇéÇëĽűŁşhttp://www.jjyx.com/serve/advertise2.htm Čý ËŃË÷ŇýÇćע˛á °ďÄăµÇ½ȫÇň6000‚€Ó˘ÎÄËŃË÷ŇýÇć(ČçYAHOOŁ¬GOOGLEDµČ)Ł¬˝ř200¸öÖĐÎÄËŃË÷ŇýÇć(ČçÍřŇף¬ŃĹ»˘Ł¬Ďă¸ŰĚí´ďËŃË÷µČ)ˇŁČĂÄăµÄÍřŐľĎíÓţČ«ÇňˇŁŁ¨ł¬Öµ·ţÎńŁ¬ĚػݼŰ400Ł© ËÄ ÍřÂçĐĹϢ·˘˛ĽŁşŇřşÓÖ®ĐÇżÉŇÔ˝«ÄúµÄĎúĘŰŁ¬ąşÂňŁ¬ŐĐÉĚ»ňşĎ×÷µČÉĚҵĐĹϢ×Ô¶Ż·˘˛Ľµ˝ĘŔ˝çÖŞĂűµÄ3300¶ŕ¸öĂłŇ׹«¸ć°ĺşÍąúÄÚÉĎǧ¸öBBSŁ¬ÂŰĚłą«¸ćµČˇŁ×î´óĎ޶ČĚáÉýÄăµÄÉĚҵ»ú»áˇŁŁ¨ł¬ÖµĽŰ350ÔŞŁ© µç×ÓÓĘĽţČş·˘·ţÎńÇëĽűŁşhttp://www.jjyx.com/serve/advertise.htm µç×ÓÓĘĽţČş·˘Ł¬ËŃË÷ČíĽţłöĘŰÇëĽűŁşhttp://www.jjyx.com/serve/advertise2.htm ÇëÎđÖ±˝Ó»Ř¸´Ł¬ÓĐŇâŐßÇëŔ´ĐĹemailŁş serve@jjyx.com łĎŃű¸÷˝çĹóÓŃÇ°Ŕ´Ç˘Ě¸şĎ×÷ˇŁ Ö Ŕń ŇřşÓÖ®ĐÇ If you can't read the email,please click here http://www.jjyx.com/serve/advertise.htm Thank you From tsolutions@hknet.com Sun Jul 7 13:17:17 2002 From: tsolutions@hknet.com (tsolutions@hknet.com ) Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 21:17:17 +0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] ĎÖ´ú»ŻĆóҵµÄĐű´«ĘֶΠMessage-ID: <200207071319.g67DJFT03718@Ag.arizona.edu> Hello: (If you can't read the email,please click here http://www.jjyx.com/serve/advertise.htm) Thank you ÄúşĂŁşŁş ŇřşÓÖ®ĐÇąă¸ć·ţÎńŁş żÉÔÚČ«ąúÄËÖÁĘŔ˝ç·¶Î§·˘˛ĽĐĹϢŁ¬Í¶·Ĺąă¸ćˇŁ Ň» ąă¸ćÓĘĽţŁşżÉ¸ůľÝÄúµÄĐčŇŞŁ¬ÔÚąúÄÚÖ¸¶¨ÇřÓňŁ¬µŘµă»ňĐĐҵ˝řĐĐąă¸ćÓĘĽţĐĹϢ·˘˛ĽµČˇŁĆäĚصăĘÇŁş·¶Î§ąăŁ¬Ę±Đ§¸ßŁ¬ĽŰ¸ńµ×ˇŁ10Íň·â¶¨ĎňÓĘĽţ·˘˛Ľ˛Ĺ300Ł¬1000ÍňÓĘĽţµŘÖ·łöĘŰ˝ö150ÔŞˇŁąă¸ćÓĘĽţĎęϸ±¨ĽŰÇëµă»÷Łşhttp://www.jjyx.com/serve/advertise.htm ÎŇĂÇÓµÓĐ°´Č«ąúµŘÇřŁ¬ĐĐҵ·ÖŔŕĘýǧÍňÓĘĽţµŘÖ·Ľ°ÍęÉƵķ˘˛ĽĎµÍłŁ¬ËćʱΪÄăĚáą©ÂúŇâµÄ·ţÎńˇŁ»úÓöÄѵã¬¸ĎżěĐжŻ°ÉŁ¬ČĂÄăµÄĆóҵŁ¬ą«ËľÁ˘Ľ´ŐĆÎŐÉĚ»ú´«Ă˝µÄĂüÂö------ąă¸ćE-MAILˇŁ ¶ţ 70ÖÖ×îĐÂÖřĂűÓĘĽţËŃË÷Ł¬Čş·˘Ł¬·Ö¸îŁ¬ŃéЧČíĽţˇŁČĂÄúÄܶĚʱĽäÔÚ»ĄÁŞÍřÉĎÖ¸¶¨ËŃĽŻČô¸ÉĆóҵŁ¬ą«ËľżÍ»§µÄµç×ÓÓĘĽţ˛˘łÉǧÉĎÍňµÄČş·˘łö×ÔĽşµÄąă¸ćÓĘĽţŁ¬°üŔżÁ˵±´ú×îÓĹĐăµÄEmailąă¸ćČíĽţˇŁĆäŐý°ć×ܼ۸ńł¬ąýÍňÔŞŁ¬ĎÖÖ»ĘŰ450ÔŞ.(Č«ąú×îµ×ľŞ±¬ĽŰ¸ńŁ©ĎęÇéÇëĽűŁşhttp://www.jjyx.com/serve/advertise2.htm Čý ËŃË÷ŇýÇćע˛á °ďÄăµÇ½ȫÇň6000‚€Ó˘ÎÄËŃË÷ŇýÇć(ČçYAHOOŁ¬GOOGLEDµČ)Ł¬˝ř200¸öÖĐÎÄËŃË÷ŇýÇć(ČçÍřŇף¬ŃĹ»˘Ł¬Ďă¸ŰĚí´ďËŃË÷µČ)ˇŁČĂÄăµÄÍřŐľĎíÓţČ«ÇňˇŁŁ¨ł¬Öµ·ţÎńŁ¬ĚػݼŰ400Ł© ËÄ ÍřÂçĐĹϢ·˘˛ĽŁşŇřşÓÖ®ĐÇżÉŇÔ˝«ÄúµÄĎúĘŰŁ¬ąşÂňŁ¬ŐĐÉĚ»ňşĎ×÷µČÉĚҵĐĹϢ×Ô¶Ż·˘˛Ľµ˝ĘŔ˝çÖŞĂűµÄ3300¶ŕ¸öĂłŇ׹«¸ć°ĺşÍąúÄÚÉĎǧ¸öBBSŁ¬ÂŰĚłą«¸ćµČˇŁ×î´óĎ޶ČĚáÉýÄăµÄÉĚҵ»ú»áˇŁŁ¨ł¬ÖµĽŰ350ÔŞŁ© µç×ÓÓĘĽţČş·˘·ţÎńÇëĽűŁşhttp://www.jjyx.com/serve/advertise.htm µç×ÓÓĘĽţČş·˘Ł¬ËŃË÷ČíĽţłöĘŰÇëĽűŁşhttp://www.jjyx.com/serve/advertise2.htm ÇëÎđÖ±˝Ó»Ř¸´Ł¬ÓĐŇâŐßÇëŔ´ĐĹemailŁş serve@jjyx.com łĎŃű¸÷˝çĹóÓŃÇ°Ŕ´Ç˘Ě¸şĎ×÷ˇŁ Ö Ŕń ŇřşÓÖ®ĐÇ If you can't read the email,please click here http://www.jjyx.com/serve/advertise.htm Thank you From rodmcq6@highstream.net Sun Jul 7 18:23:11 2002 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (rodmcq6) Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 14:23:11 -0400 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207071423.AA417333514@highstream.net> Robin, If the leaf loss to your leaves is simi circular then the culprit is called a cutter bee and unfortunately there is not anything that you can do to stop the bee. The bee does not ingest the leaf but uses it to build his nest. If the insect involved ate the leaves the Sevin would be effective in killing the insects. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- From: salsa85014@yahoo.com Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2002 21:08:17 -0700 (MST) >Help! I planted bare roor roses last year and they are being eaten alive. I have tried Sevin dust and commerical rose spay but nothing is working. thanks!!! Robin > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rbartling2@cox.net Sun Jul 7 22:11:22 2002 From: rbartling2@cox.net (rbartling2@cox.net) Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 15:11:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207072211.g67MBMT12385@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a number of Italian cypress trees in my yard which I would like to trim down the tops to a uniform height! Can I top them without shocking or killing them? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Jul 7 23:58:25 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 07 Jul 2002 23:58:25 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] pruning Italian cypress Message-ID: Probably not. Enjoy the columnar forms of these evergreen trees. Limit pruning of conifers to correct problems such as deadwood. >From the book Landscape Plants for Dry Regions [Jones and Sacamano] "Too much fertilizer and water result in lush growth that pulls away from the foliage mass and detracts from the appearance of the plant. Prune or tie branches back in place to restore uniformity, but never top the plant or limit its height." Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: rbartling2@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 15:11:22 -0700 (MST) > >I have a number of Italian cypress trees in my yard which I would like to >trim down the tops to a uniform height! Can I top them without shocking or >killing them? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From caes@starband.net Sun Jul 7 23:59:31 2002 From: caes@starband.net (caes@starband.net) Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 16:59:31 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207072359.g67NxVT21960@Ag.arizona.edu> My son gave me 2 varigated pink lemon trees for Mother's Day. The only info I have is that the flesh is pink, the leaves are varigated and the fruit is striped green and yellow - which it is. I have one small lemon growing. Somewhere on the internet I read that this is an everbearing tree. Is this tree everbearing and will it do well in Maricopa County? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Jul 8 00:18:29 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 00:18:29 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] windmill palm Message-ID: Has anyone responded to your question? We are restricting attachments to this listserve because of some abusive behavior. You can send us the attachment, but response will be delayed. Can you describe the palm? Perhaps we can identify it from your description. Windmill palms have fan-shaped leaves displayed in a windmill-like fashion in a compact regular head. The slender upright trunk tapers inversely from top to bottom. Stubs of old fronds protrude from a shaggy covering of hairy, black fibers. Height 15-25 feet; spread 6-8 feet. Looks best if shaded from afternoon sun and given regular irrigation and fertilizer. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: jdrox@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2002 10:08:12 -0700 (MST) > >Hello, >I have a digital image of a palm that I'm trying to identify so I can plant >another of the same next to it. It looks like a windmill palm, but I'm not >sure. I can send the shot in an attachment. >Thanks! >R. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From sorensenm@earthlink.net Mon Jul 8 04:48:45 2002 From: sorensenm@earthlink.net (mark sorensen) Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 21:48:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] REMOVE me from your Mailing List ASAP !!!!!! Message-ID: <41200271844845710@earthlink.net>

 
 
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From bradleyl@Ag.arizona.edu Mon Jul 1 02:03:29 2002 From: bradleyl@Ag.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 19:03:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] National Gardening Association - Southwestern Deserts Regional Gardening News Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020630185912.01d06568@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_194169==_.REL Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="=====================_194179==_.ALT" --=====================_194179==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Check out this excellent resource by Cathy Cromell, editor of Arizona Master Gardener Press >Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 10:01:50 -0400 >From: "National Gardening Association" >Subject: Regional Gardening News >To: bradleyl@Ag.arizona.edu > >National Gardening Regional Reports E-newsletter a biweekly guide to >gardening in your region sponsored by Hilton Garden Inn >www.hiltongardeninn.com Better Gardener Club! Join today and receive 10 >free packets of seeds! http://store.yahoo.com/nga-gardenshop/25-7620c.html >National Gardening Association is pleased to bring you a new FREE Regional >Reports E-Newsletter. View your complete Regional Report at >www.nationalgardening.com/regional/report5em.html >277815a.jpg >2778331.jpg >National Gardening Association is pleased to bring you a new FREE Regional >Reports E-Newsletter. >277834f.jpg 277836d.jpg >Southwestern Deserts >BY CATHY CROMELL, PHOENIX, AZ >June 27 to July 11, 2002 >SPONSORED BY: >2778395.jpg >27783c7.jpg > >27783ef.jpg >277840d.jpg >Water Wise! >Water Wise is a phrase used by water conservation departments in Arizona >municipalities to encourage people to, yup, water wisely. Not only does it >save precious resources ... > >277843f.jpg >Reduce Fire Hazard >Maintain Lawns >Water Cactus and >Succulents > >277847b.jpg >Favorite Plants >Cuphea llavea >I just love to say the common name of this plant -- bat-faced cuphea. It >features rich red flowers that bloom spring through fall, resembling >little bat faces. (Use your imagination.)... > >Web Finds >Arizona Forest Health >The Arizona Forest Health Web site provides links to many sites dealing >with Southwestern wildfires and... > >NationalGardening.com home | >NGA Garden Shop >Change >Your Region | >View your >complete Regional Report > >************************************* ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ --=====================_194179==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Check out this excellent resource by Cathy Cromell, editor of Arizona Master Gardener Press

Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 10:01:50 -0400
From: "National Gardening Association" <NGA@nationalgardening.com>
Subject: Regional Gardening News
To: bradleyl@Ag.arizona.edu

National Gardening Regional Reports E-newsletter a biweekly guide to gardening in your region sponsored by Hilton Garden Inn www.hiltongardeninn.com Better Gardener Club! Join today and receive 10 free packets of seeds! http://store.yahoo.com/nga-gardenshop/25-7620c.html

National Gardening Association is pleased to bring you a new FREE Regional Reports E-Newsletter. View your complete Regional Report at www.nationalgardening.com/regional/report5em.html
277815a.jpg
2778331.jpg
National Gardening Association is pleased to bring you a new FREE Regional Reports E-Newsletter.
277834f.jpg 277836d.jpg 
Southwestern Deserts
BY CATHY CROMELL, PHOENIX, AZ
June 27 to July 11, 2002
SPONSORED BY:
2778395.jpg 27783c7.jpg

27783ef.jpg 277840d.jpg
Water Wise!
Water Wise is a phrase used by water conservation departments in Arizona municipalities to encourage people to, yup, water wisely. Not only does it save precious resources ...

277843f.jpg 
Reduce Fire Hazard
Maintain Lawns
Water Cactus and Succulents

277847b.jpg
Favorite Plants
Cuphea llavea
I just love to say the common name of this plant -- bat-faced cuphea. It features rich red flowers that bloom spring through fall, resembling little bat faces. (Use your imagination.)...

Web Finds
Arizona Forest Health
The Arizona Forest Health Web site provides links to many sites dealing with Southwestern wildfires and...

NationalGardening.com home | NGA Garden Shop
Change Your Region | View your complete Regional Report

*************************************

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ  85040-8807

Phone:  (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax:  (602) 470-8092
email:  BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/

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charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have a very large african sumac tree in my yard , and the leaves are falling off they turn yellow and then fall , I have also noticed the new leaves are coming off also . I have two citrus trees that are under the canopy of the sumac which i deep water once a week , could it be possible they are getting too much water from this practice thank you for your help Gene --part1_c5.2561c07f.2a59d3f6_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have a very large african sumac tree in my yard , and the leaves are falling off they turn yellow and then fall ,  I have also noticed the new leaves are coming off also .         I have two citrus trees  that are under the canopy of the sumac which i deep water once a week , could it be possible they are getting too much water from this practice thank you for your help Gene --part1_c5.2561c07f.2a59d3f6_boundary-- From tiabear@cox.net Mon Jul 8 22:11:54 2002 From: tiabear@cox.net (Kelly Zahn) Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 16:11:54 -0600 Subject: [Arid_gardener] zahnk@post.uwstout.edu Message-ID: <000a01c226cc$7e4aa440$70170344@ph.cox.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C2269A.2DD2BD40 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I am new to the Phoenix area and recently bought property with an array = of vegetation. I am having troubles with the grapevines-according to = previous owners they are usually green and full by this time of year, = they have not grown in the past two months and are yellow, almost burnt = looking, i am watering them every other day, any suggestions??? ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C2269A.2DD2BD40 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I am  new to the Phoenix area and = recently=20 bought property with an array of vegetation.  I am having troubles = with the=20 grapevines-according to previous owners they are usually green and full = by this=20 time of year, they have not grown in the past two months and are yellow, = almost=20 burnt looking, i am watering them every other day, any=20 suggestions???
------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C2269A.2DD2BD40-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Jul 9 00:53:09 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 00:53:09 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] watering grapes Message-ID: Grapes need to be watered deeply (18-30 inches deep). Check how deep the water is going by using a probe into the soil. You should be able to water 1-3 times a week if you are watering to this depth. You can judge water need by looking at the tendrils. If there aren't any or they are very short, the plant needs more water. Another possibility is that leafhoppers (small insects) are rasping on the leaves to get moisture and food; the result is that the leaves brown out and may drop off if the infestation is severe. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Kelly Zahn" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] zahnk@post.uwstout.edu >Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 16:11:54 -0600 > >I am new to the Phoenix area and recently bought property with an array of >vegetation. I am having troubles with the grapevines-according to previous >owners they are usually green and full by this time of year, they have not >grown in the past two months and are yellow, almost burnt looking, i am >watering them every other day, any suggestions??? _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From Doris12009@aol.com Tue Jul 9 05:02:53 2002 From: Doris12009@aol.com (Doris12009@aol.com) Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 22:02:53 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207090502.g6952rT22247@Ag.arizona.edu> Request information relative to care and feeding of a Torch Glow Bouganvillia. From wb.beachhouse@juno.com Tue Jul 9 05:15:01 2002 From: wb.beachhouse@juno.com (wb.beachhouse@juno.com) Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 22:15:01 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207090515.g695F1T23402@Ag.arizona.edu> What can be done to discourage cutter bees from making circles of holes in my plants? Many of my roses are full of holes. From ASUsped@aol.com Tue Jul 9 00:23:49 2002 From: ASUsped@aol.com (ASUsped@aol.com) Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 20:23:49 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palms ???? Message-ID: <18f.a56d1ed.2a5b8715@aol.com> --part1_18f.a56d1ed.2a5b8715_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello everyone, I planted 9 queen palms about 12 years ago and so far 4 of them died and were removed from my yard. I used to water them a lot and get some professionals to do the deep root fertilizing and the Bordeaux mix for the fungus treatment about once every 2 - 3years. They are on my sprinkler system but I've always supplemented them with extra water where I leave my hose on low stream all night long once a week for each palm. I have to admit that there were times when they were neglected for months with little water and no professional treatment for a couple of years. Please, help me get my other 5 palms back to healthy growth. The questions are: Is deep fertilizing really necessary? Do they really love lots of water in the summer? How often do I need to apply the Bordeaux mix? Is there any thing other than Bordeaux mix out there in the markt? and most important question can you PLEASE refer me to REAL professionals who specialize in queen palms? Thank you --part1_18f.a56d1ed.2a5b8715_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
      Hello everyone,

       I planted 9 queen palms about 12 years ago and so far 4 of them died and were removed from my yard. I used to water them a lot and get some professionals to do the deep root fertilizing and the Bordeaux mix for the fungus treatment about once every 2 - 3years. They are on my sprinkler system but I've always supplemented them with extra water where I leave my hose on low stream all night long once a week for each palm.

      I have to admit that there were times when they were neglected for months with little water and no professional treatment for a couple of years.

       Please, help me get my other 5 palms back to healthy growth.

      The questions are: Is deep fertilizing really necessary? Do they really love lots of water in the summer? How often do I need to apply the Bordeaux mix? Is there any thing other than Bordeaux mix out there in the markt? and most important question can you PLEASE refer me to REAL professionals who specialize in queen palms?

       Thank you


  --part1_18f.a56d1ed.2a5b8715_boundary-- From bradleyl@Ag.arizona.edu Tue Jul 9 06:41:53 2002 From: bradleyl@Ag.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 23:41:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Maricopa County Youth and Community Gardening Position Open Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020708232145.01c7f590@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_114886708==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Greetings, As you may have heard Emma Sirois will be leaving the Maricopa County Urban= =20 Horticulture program to return to school full time in the fall. This is=20 great news for Emma, but she will be leaving a huge hole in our Youth and=20 Community Gardening program which she has deftly managed for the past=20 year. We hope to refill the position as soon as possible. Review of=20 applications will begin 7/15/02 and will continue until the position is=20 filled. I would appreciate your assistance in recruiting the strongest=20 possible candidate for the job. Please share the position description and= =20 application information with anyone who might be interested. Job announcement http://www.hr.arizona.edu/24636xadxproxoutx.htm Employment Application Form http://www.hr.arizona.edu/01_rec/forms/empapplication.pdf Job Application Process http://www.hr.arizona.edu/01_rec/approcess.php Job No.24636Extended Temporary Classified Staff Job Title:Program Coordinator, Senior, Pay Grade: 43 Department: Maricopa County Cooperative Extension Wage: $17.51 - $21.76 per hour Benefits:YesHours:40 per week Opening:7/8/02Closing: Open until filled Position Summary: Incumbent will independently coordinate activities and functions of the=20 Maricopa County Urban Horticulture Youth & Community gardening program to=20 ensure that goals and objectives specified for the program are accomplished= =20 in accordance with priorities, time limitations, funding limitations or=20 other specifications. Controls budget and subordinate staff. Duties and Responsibilities: =B7 Monitors or supervises the activities of staff. =B7 Develops and independently implements new or revised program goals= =20 and objectives. =B7 Performs needs assessment and analyzes and studies participant,=20 member and community needs for basis of program development. =B7 Develops and schedules a program work plan in accordance with=20 specifications, objectives and funding limitations; oversees daily=20 operations and coordinates program activities through assigned staff;=20 prioritizes and delegates work activities. =B7 Prepares budget proposals and recommendations and establishes=20 budget control system for controlling expenditures; controls expenditures=20 in accordance with budget allocations and recommends equipment and=20 resources for program. =B7 Prepares proposal for funding and/or funding continuation from=20 outside sponsors. =B7 Prepares periodic reports, financial statements and records on=20 program activities, progress, status or other special reports for=20 management or outside agencies. =B7 Confers with and advises staff, students and others to provide=20 technical advice, problem solving assistance, answers to questions and=20 program goals and policy interpretations; refers to appropriate department= =20 or person when unable to respond. =B7 Evaluates program effectiveness to develop and implement improved= =20 methods; devises evaluation methodology and implements; analyzes results=20 and takes proper action based on outcome. =B7 Reviews applications or other program documents to determine=20 acceptance or make decisions pertaining to program. =B7 Recruits program participants, members and volunteers utilizing= the=20 most appropriate promotional or marketing methods such as individual=20 letters, brochures or presentations at meetings. =B7 Develops, compiles and writes communications and promotional=20 literature for distribution such as newsletters, brochures or flyers;=20 coordinates process from development through printing and distribution. =B7 Develops and facilitates workshops, meetings or conferences with= =20 high impact on program and/or participants; coordinates logistics,=20 scheduling and participant communications. =B7 Interacts and maintains liaison with faculty, staff and=20 outside/community agencies in facilitating program objectives. Minimum Qualifications: =B7 Bachelor's degree in a field appropriate to the area of assignment= =20 AND four years administrative/coordinative program experience; OR, =B7 Master's degree in a field appropriate to area of assignment AND= =20 three years administrative/coordinative program experience; OR, =B7 Eight years of progressively responsible administrative/=20 coordinative program experience. Preferred Qualifications: =B7 Strong program development skills. =B7 Organization and management skills. =B7 Knowledge of budgeting and accounting principles. =B7 Skill in budget preparation and forecasting. =B7 Knowledge of organizational practices. =B7 Knowledge of supervisory practices and principles. =B7 Ability to effectively communicate. =B7 Demonstrated success in effective grant and budget management. =B7 Demonstrated success in conference and meeting planning. =B7 Demonstrated success managing volunteers. =B7 Demonstrated success supervising staff. =B7 Skill in demonstrating and teaching others about vegetable=20 gardening in the Sonoran Desert including plant identification,=20 cultivation, insect identification and pest management. =B7 Demonstrated success in obtaining partnerships and support to fund= =20 programs. =B7 Demonstrated success in attracting and working with ethnically,=20 socio-economically and developmental diverse populations. =B7 Demonstrated success in building and managing effective teams and= =20 coalitions. =B7 Excellent verbal and written communication skills. =B7 Strong research skills =B7 Knowledge of child nutrition education as it pertains to the= garden. =B7 Community development skills as related to the garden. =B7 Ability to develop positive relationships with partner= organizations. =B7 Detail oriented. =B7 Fluent in English and Spanish. To apply, please submit an official UA job specific application to: Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 East Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Please reference job number 24636. Review of materials will begin 7/15/02 and will continue until position is= =20 filled. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ --=====================_114886708==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Greetings,

As you may have heard Emma Sirois will be leaving the Maricopa County Urban Horticulture program to return to school full time in the fall.  This is great news for Emma, but she will be leaving a huge hole in our Youth and Community Gardening program which she has deftly managed for the past year.  We hope to refill the position as soon as possible. Review of applications will begin 7/15/02 and will continue until the position is filled.  I would appreciate your assistance in recruiting the strongest possible candidate for the job.  Please share the position description and application information with anyone who might be interested.

Job announcement
http://www.hr.arizona.edu/24636xadxproxoutx.htm
<= br> Employment Application Form
http://www.hr.arizona.edu/01_rec/forms/empapplication.pd= f

Job Application Process
http://www.hr.arizona.edu/01_rec/approcess.php

Job No.24636= Extended Temporary Classified Staff
Job Title:Program  Coordinator, Senior,
Pay Grade: 43
Department: Maricopa County Cooperative Extension
Wage: $17.51 - $21.76 per hour
Benefits:YesHours:40 per week
Opening:7/8/02Closing: Open until filled



Position Summary:
Incumbent will independently coordinate activities and functions of= the Maricopa County Urban Horticulture Youth & Community gardening= program to ensure that goals and objectives specified for the program are= accomplished in accordance with priorities, time limitations, funding= limitations or other specifications. Controls budget and subordinate staff.=
Duties and Responsibilities:
=B7       Monitors or supervises the activities of staff.
=B7       Develops and independently implements new or revised program goals= and objectives.
=B7       Performs needs assessment and analyzes and studies participant,= member and community needs for basis of program development.
=B7       Develops and schedules a program work plan in accordance with= specifications, objectives and funding limitations; oversees daily= operations and coordinates program activities through assigned staff;= prioritizes and delegates work activities.
=B7       Prepares budget proposals and recommendations and establishes budget= control system for controlling expenditures; controls expenditures in= accordance with budget allocations and recommends equipment and resources= for program.
=B7       Prepares proposal for funding and/or funding continuation from= outside sponsors.
=B7       Prepares periodic reports, financial statements and records on= program activities, progress, status or other special reports for= management or outside agencies.
=B7       Confers with and advises staff, students and others to provide= technical advice, problem solving assistance, answers to questions and= program goals and policy interpretations; refers to appropriate department= or person when unable to respond.
=B7       Evaluates program effectiveness to develop and implement improved= methods; devises evaluation methodology and implements; analyzes results= and takes proper action based on outcome.
=B7       Reviews applications or other program documents to determine= acceptance or make decisions pertaining to program.
=B7       Recruits program participants, members and volunteers utilizing the= most appropriate promotional or marketing methods such as individual= letters, brochures or presentations at meetings.
=B7       Develops, compiles and writes communications and promotional= literature for distribution such as newsletters, brochures or flyers;= coordinates process from development through printing and distribution.=
=B7       Develops and facilitates workshops, meetings or conferences with= high impact on program and/or participants; coordinates logistics,= scheduling and participant communications.
=B7       Interacts and maintains liaison with faculty, staff and= outside/community agencies in facilitating program objectives.
Minimum Qualifications:
=B7       Bachelor's degree in a field appropriate to the area of assignment= AND four years administrative/coordinative program experience; OR,
=B7       Master's degree in a field appropriate to area of assignment AND= three years administrative/coordinative program experience; OR,
=B7       Eight years of progressively responsible administrative/= coordinative program experience.
Preferred Qualifications:
=B7       Strong program development skills.
=B7       Organization and management skills.
=B7       Knowledge of budgeting and accounting principles.
=B7       Skill in budget preparation and forecasting.
=B7       Knowledge of organizational practices.
=B7       Knowledge of supervisory practices and principles.
=B7       Ability to effectively communicate.
=B7       Demonstrated success in effective grant and budget management.
=B7       Demonstrated success in conference and meeting planning.
=B7       Demonstrated success managing volunteers.
=B7       Demonstrated success supervising staff.
=B7       Skill in demonstrating and teaching others about vegetable gardening= in the Sonoran Desert including plant identification, cultivation, insect= identification and pest management.
=B7       Demonstrated success in obtaining partnerships and support to fund= programs.
=B7       Demonstrated success in attracting and working with ethnically,= socio-economically and developmental diverse populations.
=B7       Demonstrated success in building and managing effective teams and= coalitions.
=B7       Excellent verbal and written communication skills.
=B7       Strong research skills
=B7       Knowledge of child nutrition education as it pertains to the garden.=
=B7       Community development skills as related to the garden.
=B7       Ability to develop positive relationships with partner= organizations.
=B7       Detail oriented.
=B7       Fluent in English and Spanish.

To apply, please submit an official UA job specific application to:=20
Maricopa County Cooperative Extension
4341 East Broadway Road
Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807

Please reference job number 24636.
Review of materials will begin 7/15/02 and will continue until position= is filled.






~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ  85040-8807

Phone:  (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax:  (602) 470-8092
email:  BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/

--=====================_114886708==_.ALT-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Jul 9 14:21:52 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 14:21:52 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palms ???? Message-ID: Is deep fertilizing really necessary? no Correct fertilizing with palm food is **very** important. (10-4-10 with micronutrients) Do they really love lots of water in the summer? yes water deeply once or twice a week. How often do I need to apply the Bordeaux mix? Check for nutrient deficiences and treat them first before assuming you have bud rot (a fungal infection) that requires treatment with Bordeaux. Is there any thing other than Bordeaux mix out there in the market? Alliette, a more costly fungicide, appears to be targeted toward a specific fungi; verify that is the disease you need to treat. and most important question can you PLEASE refer me to REAL professionals who specialize in queen palms? In Phoenix, You may call the U of A Extension at 470 8086 for a list of certified arborists. Some information from earlier questions to this list: Queen Palms are not native to nor are they well adapted to our low desert, and because of this they are not long lived. It is not a tree that one can plant and forget. It must be watered and fertilized properly. Granular fertilizer uniformly spread on the ground at the drip line of the tree, whether palm or other tree, and watered in well will provide a more uniform fertilization than other methods. Fertilization by injection could be a viable way to correct a nutrient deficiency or for a special situation. Fertilizer spikes will provide the tree with a uniform nutrient release which you won't have with the surface application. A combination of the spikes with the surface application will work well provided the recommended rate is not exceeded. Bordeaux is a copper based fungicide quite commonly used on many applications in the garden and landscape. One of its applications is to treat bud rot on palms. >From: ASUsped@aol.com >To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palms ???? >Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 20:23:49 EDT > > > Hello everyone, > > I planted 9 queen palms about 12 years ago and so far 4 of them >died >and were removed from my yard. I used to water them a lot and get some >professionals to do the deep root fertilizing and the Bordeaux mix for the >fungus treatment about once every 2 - 3years. They are on my sprinkler >system >but I've always supplemented them with extra water where I leave my hose on >low stream all night long once a week for each palm. > > I have to admit that there were times when they were neglected for >months with little water and no professional treatment for a couple of >years. > > Please, help me get my other 5 palms back to healthy growth. > > The questions are: Is deep fertilizing really necessary? Do they >really love lots of water in the summer? How often do I need to apply the >Bordeaux mix? Is there any thing other than Bordeaux mix out there in the >markt? and most important question can you PLEASE refer me to REAL >professionals who specialize in queen palms? > > Thank you > > > _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Jul 9 15:08:11 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 15:08:11 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] leaf cutter bees Message-ID: earlier response to this list: Since the cutter bees do not ingest the rose leaves there is little that we can do to stop them, unless we want to stand guard with a can of bug spray and douse them as they are doing their cutting. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian Cutter bees do little harm and are good pollinators. Linda Drew Master GArdener >From: wb.beachhouse@juno.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 22:15:01 -0700 (MST) > >What can be done to discourage cutter bees >from making circles of holes in my plants? >Many of my roses are full of holes. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Jul 9 15:14:39 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 15:14:39 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Torch Glow bougainvillea Message-ID: response from an earlier question to the list: I pulled out my trusty Sunset Western Garden Guide to look into this one. The book does say that you can fertilize in spring and summer. Water normally while plants are growing and then ease off temporarily in mid-summer to promote better flowering. As for Torch Glow, it is called an oddity, an erect, multistemmed plant to 6 ft. Needs no support. Another source I have says that fertilizing will promote foliage growth, it doesn't increase flowering. Sue Bass Master Gardener Generally bougainvillea bloom best when fertilized only lightly in the spring and when given adequate but not generous water. >From: Doris12009@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 22:02:53 -0700 (MST) > >Request information relative to care and feeding of a Torch Glow >Bouganvillia. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Jul 9 15:15:17 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 15:15:17 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Torch Glow bougainvillea Message-ID: response from an earlier question to the list: I pulled out my trusty Sunset Western Garden Guide to look into this one. The book does say that you can fertilize in spring and summer. Water normally while plants are growing and then ease off temporarily in mid-summer to promote better flowering. As for Torch Glow, it is called an oddity, an erect, multistemmed plant to 6 ft. Needs no support. Another source I have says that fertilizing will promote foliage growth, it doesn't increase flowering. Sue Bass Master Gardener Generally bougainvillea bloom best when fertilized only lightly in the spring and when given adequate but not generous water. >From: Doris12009@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 22:02:53 -0700 (MST) > >Request information relative to care and feeding of a Torch Glow >Bouganvillia. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From Namaste78@aol.com Tue Jul 9 16:24:54 2002 From: Namaste78@aol.com (Namaste78@aol.com) Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 12:24:54 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mango trees Message-ID: --part1_a3.2af9a0d4.2a5c6856_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have heard that mango trees can be grown in Phoenix if grown in shade and watered well. Does anyone know of any successes and the best cultural practices? I know they are not recommended for this region and they are a tropical species but still......I always like a good challenge. Thanks --part1_a3.2af9a0d4.2a5c6856_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have heard that mango trees can be grown in Phoenix if grown in shade and watered well.  Does anyone know of any successes and the best cultural practices?  I know they are not recommended for this region and they are a tropical species but still......I always like a good challenge.
Thanks --part1_a3.2af9a0d4.2a5c6856_boundary-- From crymer@Ag.arizona.edu Tue Jul 9 16:34:42 2002 From: crymer@Ag.arizona.edu (Cathy Rymer) Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 09:34:42 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palms ???? In-Reply-To: <18f.a56d1ed.2a5b8715@aol.com> Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20020709092600.00bbaa80@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_1948834==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Hi Mike, In addition to the information Linda gave you, I would like to include results of University research. There have only been two documented cases of bud rot in palms in the last 50 years, and these were fan palms. The trouble we encounter with the fronds of Queen palms is NOT due to a fungus. Instead it is the result of cultural practices and incompatibility with our soils and climate. Here is a direct quote from Dr. Mary Olsen, Plant Pathologist for the University of Arizona, who is studying the elusive condition that many landscape maintenance workers claim is bud rot. "......... The disease know as "Bud Rot" of palm in Arizona, a collapse of palms in which the fronds die and/or the entire tree declined or dies rapidly, has been attributed to a pathogenic organism called Phytophthora. Although I have found two records, one each from 1939 and 1971, of Phytophthora being isolated from fan palms in Arizona, there are no other records, and these may have been isolated events. We have no records of this disease on Queen palm. Except in very humid tropical areas with high rainfall, it is unlikely that Phytophthora, a water-loving organism, would be a problem in crowns of palms. It is more likely to cause a root rot of over-watered plants or those planted in soils with poor drainage. The now common practice of treating the crowns of palms, especially queen palms, with Bordeaux mixture may have arisen because of these old records. The use of Bordeaux mixture as a drench in the "bud" of palms would have no effect on root rots. Used as a soil drench, it may have some preventive activity. Based on our present knowledge, any response of declining palms to treatment probably is the result of additional care in general rather than to the copper sulfate-hydrated lime mixture of Bordeaux. I am continuing to work on this problem. I want to examine palms in the initial stages of decline, and I always need root samples. In many cases I should be able to do non-destructive sampling for disease organisms. I would appreciate your notifying me of palm problems in your area so that we can do more extensive investigations." Sincerely, Mary W. Olsen Extension Plant Pathologist Department of Plant Pathology University of Arizona. At 08:23 PM 07/08/2002 -0400, ASUsped@aol.com wrote: > Hello everyone, > > I planted 9 queen palms about 12 years ago and so far 4 of them > died and were removed from my yard. I used to water them a lot and get > some professionals to do the deep root fertilizing and the Bordeaux mix > for the fungus treatment about once every 2 - 3years. They are on my > sprinkler system but I've always supplemented them with extra water where > I leave my hose on low stream all night long once a week for each palm. > > I have to admit that there were times when they were neglected for > months with little water and no professional treatment for a couple of years. > > Please, help me get my other 5 palms back to healthy growth. > > The questions are: Is deep fertilizing really necessary? Do they > really love lots of water in the summer? How often do I need to apply the > Bordeaux mix? Is there any thing other than Bordeaux mix out there in the > markt? and most important question can you PLEASE refer me to REAL > professionals who specialize in queen palms? > > Thank you > > > Catherine Rymer Instructional Specialist, Sr., Urban Horticulture Certified Arborist WC-5216 University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Phoenix, AZ 85040 http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ --=====================_1948834==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Hi Mike,

In addition to the information Linda gave you, I would like to include results of University research. 

There have only been two documented cases of bud rot in palms in the last 50 years, and these were fan palms.  The trouble we encounter with the fronds of Queen palms is NOT due to a fungus.  Instead it is the result of cultural practices and incompatibility with our soils and climate. 

Here is a direct quote from Dr. Mary Olsen, Plant Pathologist for the University of Arizona, who is studying the elusive condition that many landscape maintenance workers claim is bud rot.

".........  The disease know as "Bud Rot" of palm in Arizona, a collapse of palms in which the fronds die and/or the entire tree declined or dies rapidly, has been attributed to a pathogenic organism called Phytophthora.  Although I have found two records, one each from 1939 and 1971, of Phytophthora being isolated from fan palms in Arizona, there are no other records, and these may have been isolated events.  We have no records of this disease on Queen palm.  Except in very humid tropical areas with high rainfall, it is unlikely that Phytophthora, a water-loving organism, would be a problem in crowns of palms.  It is more likely to cause a root rot of over-watered plants or those planted in soils with poor drainage.

The now common practice of treating the crowns of palms, especially queen palms, with Bordeaux mixture may have arisen because of these old records.  The use of Bordeaux mixture as a drench in the "bud" of palms would have no effect on root rots.  Used as a soil drench, it may have some preventive activity.  Based on our present knowledge, any response of declining palms to treatment probably is the result of additional care in general rather than to the copper sulfate-hydrated lime mixture of Bordeaux.

I am continuing to work on this problem.  I want to examine palms in the initial stages of decline, and I always need root samples.  In many cases I should be able to do non-destructive sampling for disease organisms.  I would appreciate your notifying me of palm problems in your area so that we can do more extensive investigations."

Sincerely,

Mary W. Olsen
Extension Plant Pathologist
Department of Plant Pathology
University of Arizona.

At 08:23 PM 07/08/2002 -0400, ASUsped@aol.com wrote:

      Hello everyone,

       I planted 9 queen palms about 12 years ago and so far 4 of them died and were removed from my yard. I used to water them a lot and get some professionals to do the deep root fertilizing and the Bordeaux mix for the fungus treatment about once every 2 - 3years. They are on my sprinkler system but I've always supplemented them with extra water where I leave my hose on low stream all night long once a week for each palm.

      I have to admit that there were times when they were neglected for months with little water and no professional treatment for a couple of years.

       Please, help me get my other 5 palms back to healthy growth.

      The questions are: Is deep fertilizing really necessary? Do they really love lots of water in the summer? How often do I need to apply the Bordeaux mix? Is there any thing other than Bordeaux mix out there in the markt? and most important question can you PLEASE refer me to REAL professionals who specialize in queen palms?

       Thank you


 

Catherine Rymer
Instructional Specialist, Sr., Urban Horticulture
Certified Arborist WC-5216
University of Arizona
Maricopa County Cooperative Extension
4341 E. Broadway
Phoenix, AZ  85040

--=====================_1948834==_.ALT-- From coulterr@dvelco.com Tue Jul 9 18:05:02 2002 From: coulterr@dvelco.com (coulterr@dvelco.com) Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 11:05:02 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207091805.g69I52T06641@Ag.arizona.edu> do you have or know where i can find information about greenhouse design and growing in the phoenix area From BandBHall@aol.com Tue Jul 9 20:04:26 2002 From: BandBHall@aol.com (BandBHall@aol.com) Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 13:04:26 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207092004.g69K4QT26106@Ag.arizona.edu> From BandBHall@aol.com Tue Jul 9 20:05:43 2002 From: BandBHall@aol.com (BandBHall@aol.com) Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 13:05:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207092005.g69K5hT26302@Ag.arizona.edu> Is it a good idea to mound up some mulch around tea roses to help keep the roots cooler in this very hot weather? From cupdike@rosepink.com Tue Jul 9 20:58:58 2002 From: cupdike@rosepink.com (cupdike@rosepink.com) Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 13:58:58 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207092058.g69KwwT07567@Ag.arizona.edu> We have an irrigated lot of nearly an acre in Mesa. When we purchased a lawn tractor three years ago, we were told that it wasn't necessary to bag the grass clippings on irrigated lawns. We have been mowing for three years now and letting the grass clippings fall in the lawn, and have had no problems. The lawn is thick and green and healthy. A neighbor, who also has a large, irrigated yard, told us recently that he always bags his clippings. Which is preferable for irrigated lawns? From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Tue Jul 9 21:36:31 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 14:36:31 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] keeping grass out of flower /veggie beds In-Reply-To: <200207041513.g64FD5T06280@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20020709213631.56932.qmail@web14912.mail.yahoo.com> Linda answered your first ?? very well and I have a solution for the grass.It involves some work at first but the results are very good. Pick up some aluminum roof flashing. it comes in rolls. You want the tallest you can get,usually about 18".Dig a 18" ditch on the bed side of the border that separates the grass and bed. Put the roof flashing straight down in the ground to create a metal barrier between the lawn and bed. This will eliminate over 90% of your problem. --- lajgaines@msn.com wrote: > I have 2 questions: Is there a place that I can take > a sample of my garden soil to have it tested to let > me know what it needs. I have tomatoes planted and > each year the yeild seems to have gone down. I add > fertilizers each end of my growing seasons but as I > said my yeild has really gone down. > > > Also is there anything that can get rid of burmuda > grass in my garden. About 8 years ago before we put > the garden in it was grass and we think we pull all > the roots out each year but the grass takes over. I > know there are products to rid it but I also want to > be able to plant my garden each January. > > Thanks for any feed back > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free http://sbc.yahoo.com From cstephens@infinet-is.com Tue Jul 9 21:43:22 2002 From: cstephens@infinet-is.com (Charles Stephens) Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 14:43:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200207092058.g69KwwT07567@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <001201c22791$e6e677c0$a586dfd1@default> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C22756.F9A4E800 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Unless you have weeds casting seeds, your system is best. The clippings = left on the lawn provide mulch which will reduce water lost to = evaporation, help to reduce soil temperature, and as they decompose = nutrients are recycled. The fact that you have a thick green healthy = lawn says it all. Charlie Stephens Master Gardener Phoenix ----- Original Message -----=20 From: cupdike@rosepink.com=20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Tuesday, July 09, 2002 1:58 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have an irrigated lot of nearly an acre in Mesa. When we purchased = a lawn tractor three years ago, we were told that it wasn't necessary to = bag the grass clippings on irrigated lawns. We have been mowing for = three years now and letting the grass clippings fall in the lawn, and = have had no problems. The lawn is thick and green and healthy. A = neighbor, who also has a large, irrigated yard, told us recently that he = always bags his clippings. Which is preferable for irrigated lawns? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C22756.F9A4E800 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Unless you have weeds casting seeds, = your system is=20 best. The clippings left on the lawn provide mulch which will reduce = water lost=20 to evaporation, help to reduce soil temperature, and as they decompose = nutrients=20 are recycled. The fact that you have a thick green healthy lawn says it=20 all.
 
Charlie Stephens
Master=20 Gardener
Phoenix
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 cupdike@rosepink.com
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu =
Sent: Tuesday, July 09, 2002 = 1:58=20 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Question from=20 Home-Hort WWW page

We have an irrigated lot of nearly an acre in Mesa. = When we=20 purchased a lawn tractor three years ago, we were told that it wasn't=20 necessary to bag the grass clippings on irrigated lawns. We have been = mowing=20 for three years now and letting the grass clippings fall in the lawn, = and have=20 had no problems. The lawn is thick and green and healthy. A neighbor, = who also=20 has a large, irrigated yard, told us recently that he always bags his=20 clippings. Which is preferable for irrigated=20 = lawns?

_______________________________________________
Arid_gar= dener=20 mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu=
http://Ag.A= rizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C22756.F9A4E800-- From sue.lou@verizon.net Wed Jul 10 00:40:54 2002 From: sue.lou@verizon.net (Louis G. Guadagnoli) Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 20:40:54 -0400 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [AG] Hibiscus Message-ID: <3D2B8296.ACE991B@verizon.net> We have a Hibiscus bush in the back yard that appears to be dying. The > > leaves are yellow, or dry and brown (in other words, dead), and curl up. > > The branches are not drooping, and there appear to be some new shoots and > > one or two blooms, but even the greenish shoots and blooms are curling up > > and turning yellow. > > > > The bush seemed to be doing okay throughout the summer. We had several > > blooms (not a lot) but the leaves were a yellowing a little. The current > > yellowing, browning and curling of the leaves began a few days ago. > > What is happening? Sue Guadagnoli sue.lou@verizon.net From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Jul 10 02:57:39 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 02:57:39 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] greenhouse design and growing Message-ID: response to an earlier question to this list: Since we can garden outdoors all year, I'm sure the greenhouses are also in full swing year round. A greenhouse's purpose is to manage light, temperature and humidity: with a southern or southeastern exposure, light is probably not an issue for the winter (and of course, not for the summer). Unless the plant material has specific light/dark needs, that is, which must be artificially managed. BTU requirements to maintain a 60 degree minimum temperature depend upon both the city's location/elevation and the square footage of the greenhouse itself. I simply don't know if greenhouses in Phoenix (1200 elevation) need heating capacity. In the last few winters which have been very mild, perhaps not. More necessary is cooling/ventilation equipment (we usually use evaporative coolers) to keep air circulating and cool during our blazing summers. We offer a publication on the subject Q19 Hobby Greenhouse Design Notes which is available by sending $1 to Home Horticulture Publication University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 This is more geared toward construction than it is cultivation practice, however. Linda Guy Master Gardener >From: coulterr@dvelco.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 11:05:02 -0700 (MST) > >do you have or know where i can find information about greenhouse design >and growing in the phoenix area > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Jul 10 02:59:44 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 02:59:44 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mango trees Message-ID: Response to an earlier question to this list: >I'd like to refer you to the Arizona Chapter of the California Rare Fruit >Growers for information on growing a mango in the Phoenix area. Their web >page is: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/sub-trpc.htm It contains information on how to contact them. Sue Bass Master Gardener >From: Namaste78@aol.com >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mango trees >Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 12:24:54 EDT > >I have heard that mango trees can be grown in Phoenix if grown in shade and >watered well. Does anyone know of any successes and the best cultural >practices? I know they are not recommended for this region and they are a >tropical species but still......I always like a good challenge. >Thanks _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Jul 10 03:04:58 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 03:04:58 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] mulch for roses Message-ID: >Is it a good idea to mound up some mulch around tea roses to help keep the >roots cooler in this very hot weather? yes here is a response to an earlier question to this list: What you are seeing is pretty common for roses grown in the low desert of Arizona unless you have taken some of the steps that the exhibitors take to keep their roses looking better such as providing a shade screen, mist or wash down daily ( this will also help to keep spider mites and powdery mildew away ), provide a 3 to 4 inch organic mulch around the bush, be sure that the rose gets plenty of water ( deep watered a minimum of twice a week ), and fertilize the rose every 6 weeks at half strength. If you are deadheading the spent blooms, leave as many leaves as possible to provide the bush with a maximum amount of shade. If you find circular cuts in the leaves, they are made by cutter bees who use the cutouts to build nests. Consequently since the bees do not ingest the leaves there is nothing we can do to stop them. If you haven't visited the rose garden at Mesa Community College, it is time to do so if you love roses. You will find over 3000 roses ( the largest garden in the southwest ) Plan to visit the garden on the 2nd thursday of any month and come meet with the Mesa East Valley Rose Society who meets at 7:00 PM. Our goal is to help people grow better roses. I'll be glad to try to answer any other rose questions you may have. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian >From: BandBHall@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 13:05:43 -0700 (MST) > >Is it a good idea to mound up some mulch around tea roses to help keep the >roots cooler in this very hot weather? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From Mazz@bigfoot.com Wed Jul 10 13:14:13 2002 From: Mazz@bigfoot.com (Mazz@bigfoot.com) Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 06:14:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207101314.g6ADEDT10599@Ag.arizona.edu> I have shoestring acacias in my backyard that drop bean pods all over the place. Is there any way to keep these trees from flowering and producing these pods? Thanks! From becky@lesaz.com Wed Jul 10 13:52:02 2002 From: becky@lesaz.com (becky@lesaz.com) Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 06:52:02 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207101352.g6ADq2T13999@Ag.arizona.edu> What is the best type of grass to plant in arizona, and if I were to lay bermuta sod do I need to get a special lawn mower to cut it? From jax2bee@aol.com Wed Jul 10 13:56:47 2002 From: jax2bee@aol.com (jax2bee@aol.com) Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 06:56:47 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207101356.g6ADulT14561@Ag.arizona.edu> I was wondering if anyone has suggestions for growing flowers on a patio in either pots or hanging baskets in Arizona. I just moved here but don't have a yard, just an apartment with a patio area. What types of flowers do well not only in the heat and sun, but also in pots or baskets? From yarrow@cgmailbox.com Wed Jul 10 19:52:54 2002 From: yarrow@cgmailbox.com (White O'Mornin') Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 12:52:54 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] large rocks for landscaping References: Message-ID: <001401c2284b$6384c8e0$497d953f@robertde> Thanks Linda, I took your advice and did a google search. Look what I found. Looks like more fun than making adobe. http://www.flash.net/~blhill/pages.aux/pond/recipes.html ~Rachel~ Better Dogs, Goats 'n Gardens (of White O'Mornin' Farm) Arizona Zone - 13 We may not know what the future holds but, we can trust the one who holds the future! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Linda Drew" To: ; Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002 6:11 AM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] large rocks for landscaping > > one suggestion, search for "fiberglass boulder" using a > search engine such as google.com > > The boulders look like rock but are made of fiberglass and are > lighweight and easy to move. > > If you want to purchase real boulders, check your phone book > yellow pages for landscape material supply. > > Linda Drew > Master Gardener > > >From: mehupa2@cableone.net > >To: > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 20:59:26 -0700 (MST) > > > >I live in Prescott AZ and am a renter so I I have to plant in > >containers.....I would like to use large rocks with hidden containers so I > >can remove them and take them with me if I move again......I don't know > >where on the net to search to see what is available to me.....do you have > >any suggestions? From ddmadsen@qwest.net Wed Jul 10 20:28:27 2002 From: ddmadsen@qwest.net (ddmadsen@qwest.net) Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 13:28:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207102028.g6AKSQT01937@Ag.arizona.edu> I planted Bermuda Princess Grass Seed the end of May. The grass was green and I watered it for 10 minutes 3 times a day. When the 100 degree temperatures hit, the grass turned brown and now has appeared to have died. Please provide me with some advice on reviving the grass if possible, or is it to late to reseed with possibly a different variety if needed. Any advice would be helpful. Thank you. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Jul 11 02:30:13 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 02:30:13 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] lawn grasses for Arizona Message-ID: In low elevations in Arizona (Phoenix, Tucson) the best choice is a hybrid bermuda lawn. There are many varieties of hybrid bermuda, two popular ones are Tifgreen and EZ Turf. EZTurf is easily mowed with a rotary mower and can be mowed at higher mowing heights. Some other hybrids are adapted to mowing heights of 1/2 - 1 1/4 inches with a reel mower. Contact your local Extension Office for Extension Publication No. 8752, "Hybrid Bermuda Lawns", for more information. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: becky@lesaz.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 06:52:02 -0700 (MST) > >What is the best type of grass to plant in arizona, and if I were to lay >bermuta sod do I need to get a special lawn mower to cut it? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Jul 11 02:37:32 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 02:37:32 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] flowers for pots and hanging baskets Message-ID: One choice would be portulaca, but I'm sure others will also have some suggestions. Others might also include vinca, zinnia (dwarf varieties), allysum and some of the salvias. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: jax2bee@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 06:56:47 -0700 (MST) > >I was wondering if anyone has suggestions for growing flowers on a patio in >either pots or hanging baskets in Arizona. I just moved here but don't >have a yard, just an apartment with a patio area. What types of flowers do >well not only in the heat and sun, but also in pots or baskets? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Jul 11 02:41:23 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 02:41:23 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] shoestring acacia Message-ID: Sorry, don't know of any way to keep the shoestring acacias from flowering and producing pods. The pods are usually fairly easy to rake or sweep up if you have a somewhat smooth hardscape/ground cover. If you have rock landscape under the trees, you might want to remove it and install something that is easy to rake. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Mazz@bigfoot.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 06:14:13 -0700 (MST) > >I have shoestring acacias in my backyard that drop bean pods all over the >place. Is there any way to keep these trees from flowering and producing >these pods? > >Thanks! > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Jul 11 02:54:26 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 02:54:26 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] seeding a lawn Message-ID: You are correct to water 3 to 4 times daily for short intervals until the seeds germinate. However, once the grass is growing, you need to reduce the frequency and increase the duration so that you are wetting the ground to a depth of about 12 inches. You may need to experiment with timing to see how long you have to water for the water to penetrate to that depth. THe grass may revive if you increase the depth of watering, but it does sound like the young grass may have perished. I do not know if it is too late in the season to reseed -- I hope someone else from this list can answer that question. I would try it myself since the monsoon season is starting to provide some cloud-shading and extra humidity. Princess is well-adapted for this area. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: ddmadsen@qwest.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 13:28:27 -0700 (MST) > >I planted Bermuda Princess Grass Seed the end of May. The grass was green >and I watered it for 10 minutes 3 times a day. When the 100 degree >temperatures hit, the grass turned brown and now has appeared to have died. >Please provide me with some advice on reviving the grass if possible, or is >it to late to reseed with possibly a different variety if needed. Any >advice would be helpful. Thank you. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From cpastoor@cox.net Thu Jul 11 03:52:26 2002 From: cpastoor@cox.net (cpastoor@cox.net) Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 20:52:26 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207110352.g6B3qQT06859@Ag.arizona.edu> My burmuda grass has large brown areas but also there are areas of healthy green grass. I water every other day for 10 min. Do I have a fungus? Lack of water? Need advice - thanks! From IbeeDave@aol.com Thu Jul 11 13:57:18 2002 From: IbeeDave@aol.com (IbeeDave@aol.com) Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 06:57:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207111357.g6BDvIT05492@Ag.arizona.edu> Hi, This may be an "off-the-wall" question, but the survival of a 75' Eastern Cottonwood hangs in the balance. We are having a tremendous problem with the amount of "cotton" being released by this tree in the past few years. Is there any way to chemically (or otherwise) alter or neuter the tree to discourage or stop it's production of cotton? Thanks for any help that you can provide, Dave Petit From copper@bargainsail.com Thu Jul 11 14:12:31 2002 From: copper@bargainsail.com (Copper Bittner) Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 07:12:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] container gardening ideas In-Reply-To: <200207101356.g6ADulT14561@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Why not consider using native and desert-adapted plants. You'll use less water and energy, and your success level will be higher using plants that are adapted to our severe conditions. And you'll find that they are colorful, plentiful, and will draw wildlife to your garden. You'll attract hummingbirds, butterflies, among others. Not only will your containers be colorful, but you'll have color on the wing as well! Although you don't say where you live, I live in the Phoenix metro area (Chandler) and have a rather large container garden on my patio. I use mostly native and desert-adapted plants such as a very handsome combination of verbena gooddingii (a short lived perennial with pink/lavender blooms) and Baileya multiradiata (desert marigold). Following are some other plant ideas: Ratibida columnnifera (Mexican Hat) Penstemon varieties Salvia Oenothera caespitosa (Tufted evening primrose) Melampodium feucanthum (Blackfoot daisy) Buddleja marrubiifolia (woolly butterfly bush) This one is rather large in the ground but can be kept nicely in a pot. Succulents and agaves make handsome pot combinations as well. Check out some of the local (not national brands like Home Depot, etc.) nurseries where you're likely to find these plants. Your soil should be modified with a combination of approximately 1/3 good quality potting soil, 1/3 shredded peat moss, and 1/3 pumice. That formula would change if you are growing succulents/cactus/agave. Increase the amount of pumice and reduce the peat moss. These plants do not like wet feet and the additional pumice helps the soil drain faster. If you live in Maricopa County, stop by the Cooperative Extension at 4341 E Broadway for more information on native and desert adapted species. There is an online publication called Flower Planting Guide for the Low Desert that can be found at: http://www.ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/as1100.pdf If you live in another county check out http://www.ag.arizona.edu/counties and click on the county in which you reside. Then contact that county cooperative extension for local plant lists. Or stop by and talk to one of the Master Gardeners for more ideas. Periodically the extension holds container gardening classes. Check with them to find out when one is scheduled. Good luck! Copper Bittner Master Gardener/Maricopa County Chandler, AZ -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of jax2bee@aol.com Sent: Wednesday, July 10, 2002 6:57 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I was wondering if anyone has suggestions for growing flowers on a patio in either pots or hanging baskets in Arizona. I just moved here but don't have a yard, just an apartment with a patio area. What types of flowers do well not only in the heat and sun, but also in pots or baskets? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RkBetu@aol.com Thu Jul 11 16:32:39 2002 From: RkBetu@aol.com (RkBetu@aol.com) Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 12:32:39 -0400 Subject: [Arid_gardener] nicotiana glauca Message-ID: <208CDA3B.1DABCA40.00051B05@aol.com> Since it first 'just came' 1988, I have had beautiful stands of nicotiana glauce (tree tobacco). The first plants lived about 5-6 years. Since then, I'm lucky to get 3 years. Two more stands are dying. It starts with wilt at the top of the plant, then the whole plant wilts and dies. One stand is over 2 yrs old, nursemaiding a small mulberry tree. It is in a wide moat with salvia plants, plenty of mulch. It gets watered lightly every other day, deeply once a week. The other, also in a moat with alfonse bamboo, gets slightly more water. They get feeding about 3 times a year.I really enjoy these plants and would like to figure out what the problem is. I don't see any insects. Thanks Rocki in Wittmann From sturico@cox.net Thu Jul 11 17:38:03 2002 From: sturico@cox.net (sturico@cox.net) Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 10:38:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207111738.g6BHc3T15882@Ag.arizona.edu> Thanks for all your responses concerning my bermudagrass removal: the issues concerning Reward vs Roundup & the black plastic. My landscape contractor is now rethinking his methods. I have another concern about my landscape renovation...I'm having raised planters built with block along the existing block fence. The interior of the planters is being waterproofed with a tar emulsion so the moisture from the soil won't bleed over to the neighbors side of the fence. I plan to plant vegetables & herbs in these planters. I'm concerned that the waterproofing may in some way be toxic to my edible plants. Should I line the planters with a heavy plastic to make a barrier between the soil & the tar? Any suggestions? Thanks again for your help! Sandy From debmancini@earthlink.net Thu Jul 11 17:43:13 2002 From: debmancini@earthlink.net (debmancini@earthlink.net) Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 10:43:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207111743.g6BHhDT16999@Ag.arizona.edu> I have the same problem as another writer (see below). But the bugs dont seem to be eating the tomatoes themselves, just climbing all over the plant. Are they harmful? They are black not green so I dont think they are stink bugs and they dont look like worms. What should I do? Is there a natural insecticide I can use? I live in Surry, VA From: jconne54@cybertrails.com >Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 19:49:50 -0700 >To: >Subject: Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >We have had a garden for several years now. This year we have noticed a new >bug. It is eating our tomatoes. I will try to discribe the bug . Please let >us know if you know what it is, if it is harmful to plants or humans and how >to get rid of them. They come out mostly in the morning and the evenings. >They are about the size and shape of a lightening bug. The have black rears >and black heads From MaggiKelly@aol.com Thu Jul 11 17:46:18 2002 From: MaggiKelly@aol.com (MaggiKelly@aol.com) Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 10:46:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207111746.g6BHkIT17745@Ag.arizona.edu> We are working with an area in a rectangle shape 32' by 10' with an L shape yard.The L shape part of the yard is utilized with a Kinney bean shape pool and spa. We have pulled one Mesquite Tree due to shedding and still have one that is directly over our pool growing on our neighbors side. They have trimmed back their tree to prevent some dropping. This tree has yellow fuzz dropping and string bean dropping which we are finding out is quite a mess around a pool. We are looking for a non-shedding tree to replace what was our only tree in our back yard. We live in Cave Creek, physically as far North, really Phoenix. We would like some type of shade non dropping tree to plant. Thank you for your help. From Jonathan Kandell" <4.3.1.2.20020711112554.00d6df00@pop.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <002f01c2291c$d20ebec0$90c88044@oemcomputer> They kill all these things, but in my personal experience, tomatoes are the most vulnerable. (your ride may vary.) jk ----- Original Message ----- From: "Margaret Lauterbach" To: ; Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2002 1:04 PM Subject: Re: leafhoppers, insecticidal soap > Curly top virus only affects growers in the hot, arid, intermountain West > (and some place in the Middle East). It's true beet leafhoppers carrying > the virus prefer full sun to shaded plants. Not only do they kill > tomatoes, but also peppers, beans, beets, chard, squash, and a number of > flowers. Margaret L > > > >Soap won't hurt leafhoppers, since they hop away. However, they do prefer > >full sun to shade; planting under shade (or shade cloth) definitely > >minimizes them in my neighborhood. That's the most effective strategy. You > >can also eliminate the weeds on which they start out. They usually move to > >my vegetables after the weeds die off. Also, leafhoppers prefer beet/chard > >(though they don't seem to do as much damage there) so be careful as those > >die; I lost a lot of tomatoes one year when I pulled up my "sacrifice" chard > >and they all hopped onto my tomatoes. > > > >jk > > From Rod McKusick" Bermudea grass can be sucessfully seeded up to August 1 Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: Linda Drew To: ddmadsen@qwest.net ; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Wednesday, July 10, 2002 7:57 PM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] seeding a lawn >You are correct to water 3 to 4 times daily for short >intervals until the seeds germinate. > >However, once the grass is growing, you need to reduce >the frequency and increase the duration so that you >are wetting the ground to a depth of about 12 inches. >You may need to experiment with timing to see how long >you have to water for the water to penetrate to that depth. > >THe grass may revive if you increase the depth of watering, >but it does sound like the young grass may have perished. > >I do not know if it is too late in the season to reseed -- >I hope someone else from this list can answer that question. >I would try it myself since the monsoon season is starting >to provide some cloud-shading and extra humidity. Princess >is well-adapted for this area. > >Linda Drew >Master Gardener > > >>From: ddmadsen@qwest.net >>To: >>Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >>Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 13:28:27 -0700 (MST) >> >>I planted Bermuda Princess Grass Seed the end of May. The grass was green >>and I watered it for 10 minutes 3 times a day. When the 100 degree >>temperatures hit, the grass turned brown and now has appeared to have died. >>Please provide me with some advice on reviving the grass if possible, or is >>it to late to reseed with possibly a different variety if needed. Any >>advice would be helpful. Thank you. >> >>_______________________________________________ >>Arid_gardener mailing list >>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > >_________________________________________________________________ >Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. >http://www.hotmail.com > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From Rod McKusick" Dave, Sorry but there is no way to stop the production of cotton from your cottonwood tree. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener-----Original Message----- From: IbeeDave@aol.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Thursday, July 11, 2002 7:01 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Hi, >This may be an "off-the-wall" question, but the survival of a 75' Eastern Cottonwood hangs in the balance. We are having a tremendous problem with the amount of "cotton" being released by this tree in the past few years. Is there any way to chemically (or otherwise) alter or neuter the tree to discourage or stop it's production of cotton? >Thanks for any help that you can provide, >Dave Petit > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Jul 11 22:45:32 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 22:45:32 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] trees around pools Message-ID: Here are some trees noted as clean poolside plants: Mary Rose Duffield, "Plants for Dry Climates": Mediterranean fan palm some citrus species laurel-leaf cocculus Grecian laurel Xylosma Sunset Garden Book: Cordyline stricta (related to yucca) Abyssinian banana bronze loquat Australian willow (Geijera parviflora) some palms Rhaphiolepis 'Majestic Beauty' Judy Mielke: Acacia berlandieri Littleleaf cordia Texas persimmon ironwood Texas mountain-laurel also: southern magnolia Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: MaggiKelly@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 10:46:18 -0700 (MST) > >We are working with an area in a rectangle shape 32' by 10' with an L >shape yard.The L shape part of the yard is utilized with a Kinney bean >shape pool and spa. >We have pulled one Mesquite Tree due to shedding and still have one that is >directly over our pool growing on our neighbors side. They have trimmed >back their tree to prevent some dropping. This tree has yellow fuzz >dropping and string bean dropping which we are finding out is quite a mess >around a pool. We are looking for a non-shedding tree to replace what was >our only tree in our back yard. >We live in Cave Creek, physically as far North, really Phoenix. We would >like some type of shade non dropping tree to plant. >Thank you for your help. > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Jul 11 22:56:12 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 22:56:12 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] bug ID Message-ID: The bug you describe might be a false boxelder bug. Does it it have a red/orange x on the back? If you can, take a bug to your nearest Cooperative Extension Office (in the county pages of your phone book) for a positive ID. Really can't tell whether it is harmful or not to crops until we have a positive ID. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: debmancini@earthlink.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 10:43:13 -0700 (MST) > >I have the same problem as another writer (see below). But the bugs dont >seem to be eating the tomatoes themselves, just climbing all over the >plant. Are they harmful? They are black not green so I dont think they are >stink bugs and they dont look like worms. What should I do? Is there a >natural insecticide I can use? I live in Surry, VA > >From: jconne54@cybertrails.com > >Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 19:49:50 -0700 > >To: > >Subject: Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > > >We have had a garden for several years now. This year we have noticed a >new > >bug. It is eating our tomatoes. I will try to discribe the bug . Please >let > >us know if you know what it is, if it is harmful to plants or humans and >how > >to get rid of them. They come out mostly in the morning and the evenings. > >They are about the size and shape of a lightening bug. The have black >rears > >and black heads > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Jul 11 23:02:02 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 23:02:02 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] lining raised bed Message-ID: One alternative would be to line all four sides of the block container with a heavy plastic liner (such as material for pond liners). Do not put any in the bottom. If you do this, I don't think you would need a sealer. Otherwise, I would want to know the chemical composition of the sealer that would be used. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: sturico@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 10:38:03 -0700 (MST) > >Thanks for all your responses concerning my bermudagrass removal: the >issues concerning Reward vs Roundup & the black plastic. My landscape >contractor is now rethinking his methods. > >I have another concern about my landscape renovation...I'm having raised >planters built with block along the existing block fence. The interior of >the planters is being waterproofed with a tar emulsion so the moisture from >the soil won't bleed over to the neighbors side of the fence. I plan to >plant vegetables & herbs in these planters. I'm concerned that the >waterproofing may in some way be toxic to my edible plants. Should I line >the planters with a heavy plastic to make a barrier between the soil & the >tar? Any suggestions? > >Thanks again for your help! > >Sandy > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Jul 11 23:10:44 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 23:10:44 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] nicotiana glauca Message-ID: Hope someone else can answer this... but my first thought was that the plants are getting too much water. I believe they grow best in sandy, gravelly soil that drains quickly. I'm wondering if over time your soil has evolved to be richer in organic matter? Just a thought... Linda >From: RkBetu@aol.com >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] nicotiana glauca >Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 12:32:39 -0400 > > Since it first 'just came' 1988, I have had beautiful stands of >nicotiana glauce (tree tobacco). The first plants lived about 5-6 years. >Since then, I'm lucky to get 3 years. Two more stands are dying. It starts >with wilt at the top of the plant, then the whole plant wilts and dies. One >stand is over 2 yrs old, nursemaiding a small mulberry tree. It is in a >wide moat with salvia plants, plenty of mulch. It gets watered lightly >every other day, deeply once a week. The other, also in a moat with alfonse >bamboo, gets slightly more water. They get feeding about 3 times a year.I >really enjoy these plants and would like to figure out what the problem is. >I don't see any insects. >Thanks >Rocki in Wittmann >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Jul 11 23:14:25 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 23:14:25 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] lawn, brown areas Message-ID: I would suggest you collect a sample at the edge of the brown spot (some healthy grass, some sick and some dead), dig down about 12 inches and put the sample in a sealed plastic bag and refrigerate. Take the sample to your local Cooperative Extension Office for positive ID. Most lawn problems are watering problems -- too much, too little, compacted soil, sprinkler missing a spot, thatch builup, etc. But the problem might be a fungal disease like spring dead spot. If it is spring dead spot, maintaining a healthy turf will speed recovery. Aerating and verticutting can spread the fungus. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: cpastoor@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 20:52:26 -0700 (MST) > >My burmuda grass has large brown areas but also there are areas of healthy >green grass. I water every other day for 10 min. Do I have a fungus? >Lack of water? Need advice - thanks! > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From umiller@azdps.com Fri Jul 12 00:00:03 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 17:00:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] flowers for pots and hanging baskets In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Linda's suggestions are good ideas, but in this heat, you have to water hanging baskets an awful lot. They seem to dry out more than potted plants on the ground - partly, I think because hanging pots are fairly small so there's little soil and it dries out very quickly. I gave up on hanging baskets during the summers here. Pots on the ground are a problem, too, but they're usually bigger and seem to survive longer without watering (but not more than two days). I have bougainvillea, hibiscus and oleander in pots and they are doing well. But because they're bushes, they need frequent trimming to keep the size under control. Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Linda Drew Sent: Wednesday, July 10, 2002 7:38 PM To: jax2bee@aol.com; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] flowers for pots and hanging baskets One choice would be portulaca, but I'm sure others will also have some suggestions. Others might also include vinca, zinnia (dwarf varieties), allysum and some of the salvias. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: jax2bee@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 06:56:47 -0700 (MST) > >I was wondering if anyone has suggestions for growing flowers on a patio in >either pots or hanging baskets in Arizona. I just moved here but don't >have a yard, just an apartment with a patio area. What types of flowers do >well not only in the heat and sun, but also in pots or baskets? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Rod McKusick" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0032_01C228E8.B7BDFB00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Your grass is not getting enough water. Most irrigation systems do not = water uniformly, thus the brown spots. After you have watered try = inserting a screwdriver into the ground, it will go easily to the depth = the water has penetrated, it should go 6 to 8 inches deep. Check out = these sites for more info on turf watering: = http://www.amwua.org/xscp-wateringschedules.htm http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ---Original Message----- From: cpastoor@cox.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Wednesday, July 10, 2002 8:55 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >My burmuda grass has large brown areas but also there are areas of = healthy green grass. I water every other day for 10 min. Do I have a = fungus? Lack of water? Need advice - thanks! > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > ------=_NextPart_000_0032_01C228E8.B7BDFB00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Your grass is not getting enough water. Most irrigation systems do = not=20 water uniformly, thus the brown spots. After you have watered try = inserting a=20 screwdriver into the ground, it will go easily to the depth the water = has=20 penetrated, it = should go 6 to=20 8 inches deep. Check out these sites for more info on turf watering:=20 http://www.amwua= .org/xscp-wateringschedules.htm
http://ag.= arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html
 
Good luck.
 
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
 
---Original Message-----
From: cpastoor@cox.net <cpastoor@cox.net>
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= =20 <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= >
Date:=20 Wednesday, July 10, 2002 8:55 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question = from=20 Home-Hort WWW page

>My burmuda grass has large = brown=20 areas but also there are areas of healthy green grass.  I water = every other=20 day for 10 min.  Do I have a fungus?  Lack of water?  = Need advice=20 -=20 thanks!
>
>_______________________________________________>Arid_gardener=20 mailing=20 list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mai= lman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> ------=_NextPart_000_0032_01C228E8.B7BDFB00-- From lpc1087@yahoo.com Fri Jul 12 16:10:09 2002 From: lpc1087@yahoo.com (lpc1087@yahoo.com) Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 09:10:09 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207121610.g6CGA9T11719@Ag.arizona.edu> From lpc1087@yahoo.com Fri Jul 12 16:14:42 2002 From: lpc1087@yahoo.com (lpc1087@yahoo.com) Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 09:14:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207121614.g6CGEgT12708@Ag.arizona.edu> Two large saguaro's in my front yard have splitting around a yellow white center. While birds have nested in holes in the cactus, I don't believe they have created this dead looking area. Can you tell me what's happening? From ka7thy@netzero.net Fri Jul 12 17:44:52 2002 From: ka7thy@netzero.net (ka7thy@netzero.net) Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 10:44:52 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207121744.g6CHiqT00958@Ag.arizona.edu> Is it possible to grow blackberries in the Phoenix area? From etvl@att.net Fri Jul 12 17:46:25 2002 From: etvl@att.net (etvl@att.net) Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 10:46:25 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207121746.g6CHkPT01357@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a Eucalyptus tree appx 40yrs old, that has for about 10yrs had black goo on about 1/3 of the trunk base where it meets the ground and comes up about 4'...also, the neighbor cut off one very healthy limb over his yard, and now of the 3 main trunks that go up, the one that had held that now severed limb is growing and pushing against the neighbors 6' wall threatening to push it down. Is this tree's vitality threatened? Is there a way to avoid a tree service doing more damage or over cutting . It looks like the leaning trunk would be too heavy for even the strongest cables pulling it back. Any guidance you may supply would be appreciated. I am appx 44th St. and Camelback Rd. Rob Turner From RkBetu@aol.com Fri Jul 12 20:21:58 2002 From: RkBetu@aol.com (RkBetu@aol.com) Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 16:21:58 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] nicotiana glauca Message-ID: <14c.10b89bdb.2a609466@aol.com> Thanks Linda, I've wondered about the watering. Most of my soil is very sandy and drains very fast. There is organic buildup in some areas. However, I've seen the glauca in less cared for areas do the same thing (raw desert ground, little water). I have one plant in a large planter (along with a few pepper plants), that is about 5 years old. It gets pruned to stay smaller, watered every other day, and richer soil added, and it is doing fine. Another question about n. glauca: Neighbors have planted some transplants and want to know if they can smoke it like regular tobacco. I've been asked this question a lot and always tell them they shouldn't, yet I've read that Native Americans do. While I know nicotine is considered a poison, is the glauca different from "smokable" tobaccos? What might happen if someone dried it and tried to smoke it like a cigarette? Thanks again, Rocki in Wittmann From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Jul 12 20:35:42 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 20:35:42 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] blackberries Message-ID: yes. First, choose a variety suited to our climate. Those developed at Texas A&M seem to do well in S. Arizona. The best time to plant berries is in January and/or February. Blackberries are best started from root cuttings. The best blackberries for your area are Brazos, Rosborough, and Shawnee. There are two thornless blackberry selections you may want to try, Navajo and Arapho. The only significant problem you may encounter is iron chlorosis caused by high pH soils. You will probably need to apply iron chelates if your soil pH is above 7.5. For more information, use your favorite search engine and enter a search for "rosborough blackberry'. A publication which you might be able to pick up from the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension office is Growing Blackberries in the Low Desert by Glenn C. Wright of the Department of Plant Services, U. of A., Yuma Mesa Agricultural Center in Yuma. This publication is the result of a study conducted to prove that blackberries could be grown in Southern Arizona. The publication includes fertilization and pruning, as well as irrigation. You can contact the Cooperative Extension office at 4341 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040,(602) 470-8086. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: ka7thy@netzero.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 10:44:52 -0700 (MST) > >Is it possible to grow blackberries in the Phoenix area? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From jrsmikk@cs.com Fri Jul 12 21:22:18 2002 From: jrsmikk@cs.com (jrsmikk@cs.com) Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 14:22:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207122122.g6CLMIT13555@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like to know what could be the cause of yellowing of the leaves on my vitex tree and what I can do about it. I deep water it about every 3 weeks. It's about 4 years old. Thank you. Joanne Mikkelson From Rod McKusick" Joanne, The Vitex tree can exist on very little water, however in order for the tree to look its best it should receive a moderate amount of water. I suggest deep watering every 10 days to two weeks. The yellow leaves tell me that the tree needs more water since you are watering only every three weeks. I have two Vitex trees that are summer watered every 10 days that look fine. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: jrsmikk@cs.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Friday, July 12, 2002 2:30 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I would like to know what could be the cause of yellowing of the leaves on my vitex tree and what I can do about it. I deep water it about every 3 weeks. It's about 4 years old. Thank you. Joanne Mikkelson > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From Rod McKusick" Rob, The black goo that you see on your eucalyptus is quite common and should not be cause for concern. However the branch that threatens your neighbors fence is of concern. If you are not able to remove the limb yourself I would suggest that you have a Certified Arborist do the job, he will be equipped to do what ever is required. It sounds like the limb should be removed at the trunk of the tree. If the tree is in good health removal of the limb should not affect the tree appreciably. The Arborist will be able after seeing the tree to give you an appraisal of what you can expect from the tree. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist -----Original Message----- From: etvl@att.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Friday, July 12, 2002 10:50 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I have a Eucalyptus tree appx 40yrs old, that has for about 10yrs had black goo on about 1/3 of the trunk base where it meets the ground and comes up about 4'...also, the neighbor cut off one very healthy limb over his yard, and now of the 3 main trunks that go up, the one that had held that now severed limb is growing and pushing against the neighbors 6' wall threatening to push it down. Is this tree's vitality threatened? Is there a way to avoid a tree service doing more damage or over cutting . It looks like the leaning trunk would be too heavy for even the strongest cables pulling it back. Any guidance you may supply would be appreciated. I am appx 44th St. and Camelback Rd. Rob Turner > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From artbornstein@netscape.net Sat Jul 13 00:08:10 2002 From: artbornstein@netscape.net (artbornstein@netscape.net) Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 17:08:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207130008.g6D08AT01137@Ag.arizona.edu> Is there any interest in local water gardening and small ponds with and without fish. I have a small above ground pond with fish and plants. I would like to learn more about the plants and their problems. Any contact would be appreciated. Art From nicolepemberton@yahoo.com Sat Jul 13 07:57:18 2002 From: nicolepemberton@yahoo.com (nicolepemberton@yahoo.com) Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 00:57:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207130757.g6D7vIT13432@Ag.arizona.edu> I was given several packs of seeds including (cactus, yucca, blue palo verde, parry's penstemon etc) and I would like to know if there is a description available for each plant along with advice on how to grow them successfully on your website. Many thanks for letting me now. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Jul 13 12:57:26 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 12:57:26 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] arid plants description and growing information Message-ID: Try the Arid Plant Manual: http://ag.arizona.edu/pima/gardening/aridplants/aridplant_index.html Look the plant up by its common name for a picture and information on cultural requirements, landscape use, etc. For information on cactus: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/cacti/index.html This is one of the chapters in the Master Gardener Manual. Good luck on growing your seeds! Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: nicolepemberton@yahoo.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 00:57:18 -0700 (MST) > >I was given several packs of seeds including (cactus, yucca, blue palo >verde, parry's penstemon etc) and I would like to know if there is a >description available for each plant along with advice on how to grow them >successfully on your website. Many thanks for letting me now. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Jul 13 14:38:54 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 14:38:54 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] propagation Message-ID: p.s. Another good souce for information is the chapter on plant propagation in the Master Gardener Manual: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/propagation/index.html >From: nicolepemberton@yahoo.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 00:57:18 -0700 (MST) > >I was given several packs of seeds including (cactus, yucca, blue palo >verde, parry's penstemon etc) and I would like to know if there is a >description available for each plant along with advice on how to grow them >successfully on your website. Many thanks for letting me now. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gar _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From jtperry06@msn.com Sun Jul 14 00:18:58 2002 From: jtperry06@msn.com (jtperry06@msn.com) Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 17:18:58 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207140018.g6E0IwT00629@Ag.arizona.edu> We recntly purchased a home in the West Valley, Litchfield Park address but live on county land NE corner Dysart & Indian School Road. Had landscaping done in September of 2001. My small front lawn, Bermuda grass is turning somewhat brown yet I water regularly, every third day, and fertilize every couple of months, Scotts. Trees aren't doing so great either. I'm wondering if what I'm doing isn't the best for soil out here. How can find out what kind of soil type I have? Regards, Jesus Perry From rxpete2@hotmail.com Sun Jul 14 03:36:21 2002 From: rxpete2@hotmail.com (rxpete2@hotmail.com) Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 20:36:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207140336.g6E3aLT18592@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a 12 year old shammel ash tree that is dropping billions of seeds this time of year. Is there anything that can be done to sterilize the tree or suppress the development of these seeds? From hrhk@hallmark.com Sun Jul 14 11:11:56 2002 From: hrhk@hallmark.com (hrhk@hallmark.com ) Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 19:11:56 +0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] ĎÖ´ú»ŻĆóҵĐű´«ĘֶΠMessage-ID: <200207141113.g6EBDuT28621@Ag.arizona.edu> Hello: (If you can't read the email,please click here http://www.jjyx.com/serve/advertise.htm) Thank you ×đľ´µÄĎČÉú/ŮʿŁş ŇřşÓÖ®ĐÇąă¸ć·ţÎńŁş żÉÔÚČ«ąúÄËÖÁĘŔ˝ç·¶Î§·˘˛ĽĐĹϢŁ¬Í¶·Ĺąă¸ćˇŁ Ň» ąă¸ćÓĘĽţŁşżÉ¸ůľÝÄúµÄĐčŇŞŁ¬ÔÚąúÄÚÖ¸¶¨ÇřÓňŁ¬µŘµă»ňĐĐҵ˝řĐĐąă¸ćÓĘĽţĐĹϢ·˘˛ĽµČˇŁĆäĚصăĘÇŁş·¶Î§ąăŁ¬Ę±Đ§¸ßŁ¬ĽŰ¸ńµ×ˇŁ10Íň·â¶¨ĎňÓĘĽţ·˘˛Ľ˛Ĺ300Ł¬1000ÍňÓĘĽţµŘÖ·łöĘŰ˝ö150ÔŞˇŁąă¸ćÓĘĽţĎęϸ±¨ĽŰÇëµă»÷Łşhttp://www.jjyx.com/serve/advertise.htm ÎŇĂÇÓµÓĐ°´Č«ąúµŘÇřŁ¬ĐĐҵ·ÖŔŕĘýǧÍňÓĘĽţµŘÖ·Ľ°ÍęÉƵķ˘˛ĽĎµÍłŁ¬ËćʱΪÄăĚáą©ÂúŇâµÄ·ţÎńˇŁ»úÓöÄѵã¬¸ĎżěĐжŻ°ÉŁ¬ČĂÄăµÄĆóҵŁ¬ą«ËľÁ˘Ľ´ŐĆÎŐÉĚ»ú´«Ă˝µÄĂüÂö------ąă¸ćE-MAILˇŁ ¶ţ 70ÖÖ×îĐÂÖřĂűÓĘĽţËŃË÷Ł¬Čş·˘Ł¬·Ö¸îŁ¬ŃéЧČíĽţˇŁČĂÄúÄܶĚʱĽäÔÚ»ĄÁŞÍřÉĎÖ¸¶¨ËŃĽŻČô¸ÉĆóҵŁ¬ą«ËľżÍ»§µÄµç×ÓÓĘĽţ˛˘łÉǧÉĎÍňµÄČş·˘łö×ÔĽşµÄąă¸ćÓĘĽţŁ¬°üŔżÁ˵±´ú×îÓĹĐăµÄEmailąă¸ćČíĽţˇŁĆäŐý°ć×ܼ۸ńł¬ąýÍňÔŞŁ¬ĎÖÖ»ĘŰ450ÔŞ.(Č«ąú×îµ×ľŞ±¬ĽŰ¸ńŁ©ĎęÇéÇëĽűŁşhttp://www.jjyx.com/serve/advertise2.htm Čý ËŃË÷ŇýÇćע˛á °ďÄăµÇ½ȫÇň6000‚€Ó˘ÎÄËŃË÷ŇýÇć(ČçYAHOOŁ¬GOOGLEDµČ)Ł¬˝ř200¸öÖĐÎÄËŃË÷ŇýÇć(ČçÍřŇף¬ŃĹ»˘Ł¬Ďă¸ŰĚí´ďËŃË÷µČ)ˇŁČĂÄăµÄÍřŐľĎíÓţČ«ÇňˇŁŁ¨ł¬Öµ·ţÎńŁ¬ĚػݼŰ400Ł© ËÄ ÍřÂçĐĹϢ·˘˛ĽŁşŇřşÓÖ®ĐÇżÉŇÔ˝«ÄúµÄĎúĘŰŁ¬ąşÂňŁ¬ŐĐÉĚ»ňşĎ×÷µČÉĚҵĐĹϢ×Ô¶Ż·˘˛Ľµ˝ĘŔ˝çÖŞĂűµÄ3300¶ŕ¸öĂłŇ׹«¸ć°ĺşÍąúÄÚÉĎǧ¸öBBSŁ¬ÂŰĚłą«¸ćµČˇŁ×î´óĎ޶ČĚáÉýÄăµÄÉĚҵ»ú»áˇŁŁ¨ł¬ÖµĽŰ350ÔŞŁ© µç×ÓÓĘĽţČş·˘·ţÎńÇëĽűŁşhttp://www.jjyx.com/serve/advertise.htm µç×ÓÓĘĽţČş·˘Ł¬ËŃË÷ČíĽţłöĘŰÇëĽűŁşhttp://www.jjyx.com/serve/advertise2.htm ÇëÎđÖ±˝Ó»Ř¸´Ł¬ÓĐŇâŐßÇëŔ´ĐĹemailŁş serve@jjyx.com łĎŃű¸÷˝çĹóÓŃÇ°Ŕ´Ç˘Ě¸şĎ×÷ˇŁ Ö Ŕń ŇřşÓÖ®ĐÇ If you can't read the email,please click here http://www.jjyx.com/serve/advertise.htm Thank you From bradleyl@Ag.arizona.edu Sat Jul 13 04:07:08 2002 From: bradleyl@Ag.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 21:07:08 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] 100 different ways you can help save water. Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020712210448.05cc9170@ag.arizona.edu> >Subject: Watershed Info No 126 > >Watershed Information >No. 126 >July 5, 2002 > >Daniel Salzler >azwatershed@aol.com > > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>Four Items<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< >NOTE: Please Pass Along To Others >If your watershed is doing something you would like others to know about, or >you know of something others can benefit from, let me know and I will place >it on this information page. If you want to be removed from the >distribution list, please let me know. Please note that all meetings listed >are open to the general public. Attached to this e-mail is an enhanced >version of this newsletter with illustrations and a corrected format. To >open, click on attachment, save to your hard drive and then open with Adobe >Acrobat Reader. If you do not have Adobe Acrobat Reader, you can add it to >your hard drive by logging on to www.adobeacrobat.com. >Enhance your viewing by downloading the pdf file to view photos, etc.. >If you cannot open the pdf attachment, please let me know and I'll resend. > > > > >3. Saving Our Water Supply - It's Everybodys Business! It has been too >many days since Arizona saw any measurable precipitation The forests are >reaching an all time level of dryness, the lakes that are intended to >supply us with water for numerous years of water during drought, are >dangerously low. What can/ should all Arizonan's be doing NOW ? Here are >over 100 different ways you can help save water. > > > Inside > >1. Fix leaky faucets throughout your home. A leak of one drop of water per >second wastes more than 4,200 gallons of water per year. >2. Replace standard showerheads and faucets with low-volume heads. >3. Fill a plastic one-quart bottle with gravel and water and place in the >toilet tank. This will save five or more gallons per day for a family of >four. >4. Run full loads in dishwasher and washing machine. >5. Take showers instead of baths; restrict showers to five minutes. >6. Don't let the water run while shaving or brushing your teeth. >7. When washing dishes by hand, don't let the water run while rinsing. >Fill one sink with wash water and the other with rinse water. >8. Evaporative coolers require a seasonal maintenance checkup. For more >efficient cooling, check your evaporative cooler annually. >9. Install a recirculating pump on your evaporative cooler to reduce water >consumption. >10. Run your washing machine and dishwasher only when they are full and >you could save 1000 gallons a month. >11. Use the garbage disposal less often. >12. Keep a pitcher of water in the refrigerator instead of running the >tap for cold drinks, so that every drop goes down you not the drain. >13. If your shower can fill a one-gallon bucket in less than 20 seconds, >then replace it with a water-efficient showerhead. >14. Collect the water you use for rinsing produce and reuse it to water >house plants. >15. Wash your produce in the sink or a pan that is partially filled with >water instead of running water from the tap. >16. Check your water meter and bill to track your water usage. >17. When you shop for a new appliance, keep in mind that one offering several >different cycles will be more water and energy-efficient. >18. Time your shower to keep it under 5 minutes. You'll save up to 1000 >gallons a month. >19. Install low-volume toilets. >20. When you clean your fish tank, use the water you've drained on your >plants. The water is rich in nitrogen and phosphorus, providing you with a >free and >effective fertilizer. >21. Put food coloring in your toilet tank. If it seeps into the toilet bowl, >you have a leak. It's easy to fix, and you can save more than 600 gallons a >month. >22. Plug the bathtub before turning the water on, then adjust the temperature >as the tub fills up. >23. Designate one glass for your drinking water each day. This will cut down >on the number of times you run your dishwasher. >24. Don't use running water to thaw food. >25. Grab a wrench and fix that leaky faucet. It's simple, inexpensive, and >can save 140 gallons a week. >26. When doing laundry, match the water level to the size of the load. >27. Teach your children to turn the faucets off tightly after each use. >28. Before you lather up, install a low-flow showerhead. They're inexpensive, >easy to install, and can save your family more than 500 gallons a week. >29. Soak your pots and pans instead of letting the water run while you scrape >them clean. >30. Make sure you know where your master water shut-off valve is located. >This could save gallons of water and damage to your home if a pipe were to >burst. >31. Turn off the water while you brush your teeth and save 4 gallons a >minute. That's 200 gallons a week for a family of four. >32. Make sure your toilet flapper doesn't stick open after flushing. >33. Make sure there are aerators on all of your faucets. >34. Install an instant water heater on your kitchen sink so you don't have to >let the water run while it heats up. This will also reduce heating costs >for your household. >35. Bathe your young children together. >36. Insulate hot water pipes so you don't have to run as much water to get >hot water to the faucet. >37. Drop your tissue in the trash instead of flushing it and save gallons >every time. >38. Install water softening systems only when necessary. Save water and salt >by running the minimum number of regenerations necessary to maintain water >softness. >39. Wash clothes only when you have a full load and save up to 600 >gallons each month. >40. Cook food in as little water as possible. This will also retain more of >the nutrients. >41. Turn the water off while you shampoo and condition your hair and you can >save more than 50 gallons a week. >42. Choose new water-saving appliances, like washing machines that save up to >20 gallons per load. >43. Select the proper size pans for cooking. Large pans require more cooking >water than may be necessary. >44. Turn off the water while you shave and you can save more than 100 gallons >a week. > >Outside > >45. Avoid planting turf in areas that are hard to water such as steep >inclines and isolated strips along sidewalks and driveways. >46. Install covers on pools and spas and check for leaks around your >pumps. >47. Plant during the spring or fall when the watering requirements are lower. >48. Consider desert landscaping and plants that require less water. If you >have a lawn, consider using Bermuda grass which requires less water than >other >grasses. >49. Water your lawn only every three days during warmer months. Water during >the coolest time of the day to minimize evaporation. >50. Maintain evaporative coolers to ensure efficient operation. >51. Clean patios and driveways with a broom, not a hose. >52. Use mulch around plants to reduce evaporation. >53. Check your sprinkler system frequently and adjust sprinklers so only >your lawn is watered and not the house, sidewalk, or street. >54. Always water during the early morning hours, when temperatures are >cooler, to minimize evaporation. >55. Use a layer of organic mulch around plants to reduce evaporation and >save hundreds of gallons of water a year. >56. Use a broom instead of a hose to clean your driveway and sidewalk and >save up to 80 gallons of water every time. >57. Water your lawn in several short sessions rather than one long one. This >will allow the water to be better absorbed. >58. Water small areas of grass by hand to avoid waste. >59. We're more likely to notice leaky faucets indoors, but don't forget to >check outdoor faucets, pipes, and hoses for leaks. >60. Periodically check your pool for leaks if you have an automatic >refilling device. >61. Only water your lawn when needed. You can tell this by simply walking >across your lawn. If you leave footprints, it's time to water. >62. Adjust your lawn mower to a higher setting. Longer grass will reduce the >loss of water to evaporation. >63. Use porous materials for walkways and patios to keep water in your yard >and prevent wasteful runoff. >64. Collect and use rain water for watering your garden. (Check to make >sure this is legal in your area.) >65. Instead of using a hose or a sink to get rid of paints, motor oil, >and pesticides, dispose of them properly by recycling or sending them to a >hazardous waste site. >66. Install a rain shut-off device on your automatic sprinklers to eliminate >unnecessary watering. >67. Choose a water-efficient drip irrigation for your trees, shrubs, and >flowers. Watering roots is very effective, be careful not to over water. >68. Cut back on the amount of grass in your yard by planting shrubs and >ground cover or landscaping with rock. >69. Remember to check your sprinkler system valves periodically for leaks and >keep the heads in good shape. >70. Don't water your lawn on windy days. After all, sidewalks and driveways >don't need water. >71. Water deeply but less frequently to create healthier and stronger >landscapes. >72. When watering grass on steep slopes, use a soaker hose to prevent >wasteful runoff. >73. To get the most from your watering time, group your plants according to >their water needs. >74. Remember to weed your lawn and garden regularly. Weeds compete with other >plants for nutrients, light, and water. > >75. While fertilizers promote plant growth, they also increase water >consumption. Apply the minimum amount of fertilizer needed. >76. Avoid installing ornamental water features unless the water is being >recycled. >77. Use a commercial car wash that recycles water. >78. Don't buy recreational water toys that require a constant flow of water. >79. Buy a rain gauge to track how much rain or irrigation your yard receives. >80. Encourage your school system and local government to help develop and >promote a water conservation ethic among children and adults. >81. Teach your family how to shut off your automatic watering systems so >anyone who is home can turn sprinklers off when a storm is approaching. >82. Set a kitchen timer when watering your lawn or garden with a hose. >83. Next time you add or replace a flower or shrub, choose a low water use >plant for year- round landscape color and save up to 550 gallons each year. >84. Use a grease pencil to mark the water level of your pool at the >skimmer. Check the mark 24 hours later. Your pool should lose no more than >1/4 inch each day. >85. Spot spray or remove weeds as they appear. >86. Use a screwdriver as a soil probe to test soil moisture. If it goes in >easily, don't water. Proper lawn watering can save thousands of gallons of >water annually. >87. Install a drip irrigation system around your trees and shrubs to >water more efficiently. >88. Mow your lawn as infrequently as possible. Mowing puts your lawn under >additional stress, causing it to require more water. >89. Don't use the sprinklers just to cool off or for play. Running >through water from a hose or sprinkler wastes gallons of water. >90. Make sure your swimming pools, fountains, and ponds are equipped with >recirculating pumps. >91. Direct downspouts or gutters toward shrubs or trees. >92. Winterize outdoor spigots to avoid pipes from bursting or freezing. >93. Wash your car on the grass. This will water your lawn at the same time. >94. If you have an evaporative air conditioner, direct the water drain to a >flower bed, tree, or your lawn. > >95. Support projects that use reclaimed waste water for irrigation and other >uses. >96. Use a hose nozzle and turn off the water while you wash your car and >save more than 100 gallons. >97. Encourage your friends and neighbors to be part of a water-conscious >community. >98. Prune back heavy foliage. Reducing leaf area reduces water needs. >99. Pick-up the phone and report significant water losses from broken pipes, >open hydrants and errant sprinklers to the property owner or your water >management >district. >100. If your grass is brown, it's not dead, it's just dormant. Dormant grass >only needs to be watered every three weeks. When the rain begins, your >grass will turn >green again. >101. Start a compost pile. Using compost when you plant adds water-holding >organic matter to the soil. >102. Use sprinklers that throw big drops of water close to the ground. >Smaller drops of water and mist often evaporate before they hit the ground. >103. More plants die from over-watering than from under-watering. Be sure >only to water plants when necessary. >104. Adjust your watering schedule to the season. Water your summer lawn >every third day and your winter lawn every fifth day. >105. Bathe your pets outdoors in an area in need of water. >106. Water only as rapidly as the soil can absorb the water. >107. Aerate your lawn. Punch holes in your lawn about six inches apart so >water will reach the roots rather than run off the surface. >108. Place an empty tuna can on your lawn to catch and measure the water >output of your sprinklers. For lawn watering advice, contact your local >conservation >office. >Source: http://www.wateruseitwisely.com/100tips.html ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ From EnviroFacility@aol.com Sat Jul 13 04:45:28 2002 From: EnviroFacility@aol.com (by way of Kitt Farrell-Poe by way of Lucy Bradley ) Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 21:45:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Poisonous Plants Field Guides. Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020712214209.05ce4ad8@ag.arizona.edu> Watershed Information No. 106 Daniel Salzler azwatershed@aol.com February 15, 2002 6. Poisonous Plants Field Guides. Poisonous Plants, Grasses, Summer Forbes and Shrubs are still available from the Coronado RC & D office for $5.00 each. Call Kim at 520-384-2229 ext. 123 to order. These are pocket-sized guides that are excellent as teaching tools for classes on plant identification and for use in the field for ranch managers and others. The Winter Forb Field Guide will be available March 15, 2002. Call and reserve your copy. Copyright d.salzler 2002 ------------------------------------- Colleagues: if you would like to receive this newsletter as a pdf file, please request: <> From macgreg@dellepro.com Sun Jul 14 17:33:09 2002 From: macgreg@dellepro.com (macgreg@dellepro.com) Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 10:33:09 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207141733.g6EHX8T22657@Ag.arizona.edu> We tried growing corn. When we pulled the plants out, they were covered with ants. We also find a lot of ants around one of our orange trees and an acacia. Can the ants seriously harm the trees? What can we do to get rid of the ants. They seem to gather in mass on various plants in the yards. Thanks for any help. Karen From macgreg@dellepro.com Sun Jul 14 17:42:36 2002 From: macgreg@dellepro.com (macgreg@dellepro.com) Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 10:42:36 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207141742.g6EHgaT23317@Ag.arizona.edu> We've been considering installing a lawn in a section of our fairly large back yard. I'm not fond of bermuda grass for several reasons. My main objection is that it is in season when it's too hot to use the yard. Is it possible to plant just a winter lawn (rye or whatever). If so, what would the area be like in summer. Would the lawn simply be brown or would it be dry and dusty. Any comments and information on types of grass that would suit the purpose would be appreciated. Thank you. Karen--Mesa From Rod McKusick" Hi Karen, Sorry that you don't like bermuda grass, it is the grass of choice here in the low desert. It will help to make your yard more pleasant by lowering the temperatures in your yard and helping with the air conditioning cost. But by not planting summer grass you will save on our precious water supply and lower your water bill. If all you want is winter grass then perenial rye is the recommended grass to plant. Since it will die out as the hot weather approaches it is necessary to replant each year in October. Yes it will be dry and dusty in the summer. This site will give you more info on turf and its care: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: macgreg@dellepro.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Sunday, July 14, 2002 10:44 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >We've been considering installing a lawn in a section of our fairly large back yard. I'm not fond of bermuda grass for several reasons. My main objection is that it is in season when it's too hot to use the yard. > >Is it possible to plant just a winter lawn (rye or whatever). If so, what would the area be like in summer. Would the lawn simply be brown or would it be dry and dusty. Any comments and information on types of grass that would suit the purpose would be appreciated. Thank you. Karen--Mesa > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From hrhk@hallmark.com Sun Jul 14 19:48:30 2002 From: hrhk@hallmark.com (hrhk@hallmark.com ) Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 03:48:30 +0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] ĎÖ´ú»ŻĆóҵĐű´«ĘֶΠMessage-ID: <200207141950.g6EJohT03198@Ag.arizona.edu> Hello: (If you can't read the email,please click here http://www.jjyx.com/serve/advertise.htm) Thank you ×đľ´µÄĎČÉú/ŮʿŁş ŇřşÓÖ®ĐÇąă¸ć·ţÎńŁş żÉÔÚČ«ąúÄËÖÁĘŔ˝ç·¶Î§·˘˛ĽĐĹϢŁ¬Í¶·Ĺąă¸ćˇŁ Ň» ąă¸ćÓĘĽţŁşżÉ¸ůľÝÄúµÄĐčŇŞŁ¬ÔÚąúÄÚÖ¸¶¨ÇřÓňŁ¬µŘµă»ňĐĐҵ˝řĐĐąă¸ćÓĘĽţĐĹϢ·˘˛ĽµČˇŁĆäĚصăĘÇŁş·¶Î§ąăŁ¬Ę±Đ§¸ßŁ¬ĽŰ¸ńµ×ˇŁ10Íň·â¶¨ĎňÓĘĽţ·˘˛Ľ˛Ĺ300Ł¬1000ÍňÓĘĽţµŘÖ·łöĘŰ˝ö150ÔŞˇŁąă¸ćÓĘĽţĎęϸ±¨ĽŰÇëµă»÷Łşhttp://www.jjyx.com/serve/advertise.htm ÎŇĂÇÓµÓĐ°´Č«ąúµŘÇřŁ¬ĐĐҵ·ÖŔŕĘýǧÍňÓĘĽţµŘÖ·Ľ°ÍęÉƵķ˘˛ĽĎµÍłŁ¬ËćʱΪÄăĚáą©ÂúŇâµÄ·ţÎńˇŁ»úÓöÄѵã¬¸ĎżěĐжŻ°ÉŁ¬ČĂÄăµÄĆóҵŁ¬ą«ËľÁ˘Ľ´ŐĆÎŐÉĚ»ú´«Ă˝µÄĂüÂö------ąă¸ćE-MAILˇŁ ¶ţ 70ÖÖ×îĐÂÖřĂűÓĘĽţËŃË÷Ł¬Čş·˘Ł¬·Ö¸îŁ¬ŃéЧČíĽţˇŁČĂÄúÄܶĚʱĽäÔÚ»ĄÁŞÍřÉĎÖ¸¶¨ËŃĽŻČô¸ÉĆóҵŁ¬ą«ËľżÍ»§µÄµç×ÓÓĘĽţ˛˘łÉǧÉĎÍňµÄČş·˘łö×ÔĽşµÄąă¸ćÓĘĽţŁ¬°üŔżÁ˵±´ú×îÓĹĐăµÄEmailąă¸ćČíĽţˇŁĆäŐý°ć×ܼ۸ńł¬ąýÍňÔŞŁ¬ĎÖÖ»ĘŰ450ÔŞ.(Č«ąú×îµ×ľŞ±¬ĽŰ¸ńŁ©ĎęÇéÇëĽűŁşhttp://www.jjyx.com/serve/advertise2.htm Čý ËŃË÷ŇýÇćע˛á °ďÄăµÇ½ȫÇň6000‚€Ó˘ÎÄËŃË÷ŇýÇć(ČçYAHOOŁ¬GOOGLEDµČ)Ł¬˝ř200¸öÖĐÎÄËŃË÷ŇýÇć(ČçÍřŇף¬ŃĹ»˘Ł¬Ďă¸ŰĚí´ďËŃË÷µČ)ˇŁČĂÄăµÄÍřŐľĎíÓţČ«ÇňˇŁŁ¨ł¬Öµ·ţÎńŁ¬ĚػݼŰ400Ł© ËÄ ÍřÂçĐĹϢ·˘˛ĽŁşŇřşÓÖ®ĐÇżÉŇÔ˝«ÄúµÄĎúĘŰŁ¬ąşÂňŁ¬ŐĐÉĚ»ňşĎ×÷µČÉĚҵĐĹϢ×Ô¶Ż·˘˛Ľµ˝ĘŔ˝çÖŞĂűµÄ3300¶ŕ¸öĂłŇ׹«¸ć°ĺşÍąúÄÚÉĎǧ¸öBBSŁ¬ÂŰĚłą«¸ćµČˇŁ×î´óĎ޶ČĚáÉýÄăµÄÉĚҵ»ú»áˇŁŁ¨ł¬ÖµĽŰ350ÔŞŁ© µç×ÓÓĘĽţČş·˘·ţÎńÇëĽűŁşhttp://www.jjyx.com/serve/advertise.htm µç×ÓÓĘĽţČş·˘Ł¬ËŃË÷ČíĽţłöĘŰÇëĽűŁşhttp://www.jjyx.com/serve/advertise2.htm ÇëÎđÖ±˝Ó»Ř¸´Ł¬ÓĐŇâŐßÇëŔ´ĐĹemailŁş serve@jjyx.com łĎŃű¸÷˝çĹóÓŃÇ°Ŕ´Ç˘Ě¸şĎ×÷ˇŁ Ö Ŕń ŇřşÓÖ®ĐÇ If you can't read the email,please click here http://www.jjyx.com/serve/advertise.htm Thank you From Rod McKusick" Sorry but there is not anything that can be done to stop the drop of seed pods on your ash tree. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: rxpete2@hotmail.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Saturday, July 13, 2002 8:39 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I have a 12 year old shammel ash tree that is dropping billions of seeds this time of year. Is there anything that can be done to sterilize the tree or suppress the development of these seeds? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From Rod McKusick" Jesus I doubt if there is anything wrong with your soil, I suspect that you are not watering adequately. Check out these sites for info on proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://www.amwua.org/xscp-wateringschedules.htm Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: jtperry06@msn.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Saturday, July 13, 2002 5:21 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >We recntly purchased a home in the West Valley, Litchfield Park address but live on county land NE corner Dysart & Indian School Road. Had landscaping done in September of 2001. My small front lawn, Bermuda grass is turning somewhat brown yet I water regularly, every third day, and fertilize every couple of months, Scotts. > >Trees aren't doing so great either. > >I'm wondering if what I'm doing isn't the best for soil out here. How can find out what kind of soil type I have? > >Regards, >Jesus Perry > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From marquistar@aol.com Mon Jul 15 00:14:26 2002 From: marquistar@aol.com (marquistar@aol.com) Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 17:14:26 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207150014.g6F0EQT24061@Ag.arizona.edu> I'm so confused! How much shall I water my roses? They're on bubblers and I keep getting conflicting info. How about my agaves(they're on a drip system). Currently, I'm watering my roses every other day for 7 minutes. They get morning sun, and look dry, yellow. My agaves get an hour and a half every third day. They were planted in March, and are quite yellow on the outside stems. Thanks for any suggestions. From yawdgus1@earthlink.net Mon Jul 15 01:54:04 2002 From: yawdgus1@earthlink.net (yawdgus1@earthlink.net) Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 18:54:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207150154.g6F1s4T00407@Ag.arizona.edu> Is there a water-soluble fertilizer that I can use on my queen palms. The palms are on a drip irrigation system and I would like to root feed the palms, if possible. Moving rocks, mulch, etc. is a bother if my only option is to work dry fertilizer into the soil and then water it in. A root feeder would be a lot easier. Is there anything out there for me? THANKS! From popsy97@yahoo.com Mon Jul 15 05:22:39 2002 From: popsy97@yahoo.com (Judy Braden) Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 22:22:39 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200207150014.g6F0EQT24061@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20020715052239.97007.qmail@web11008.mail.yahoo.com> I don't think you're watering your roses nearly enough. I have mine on bubblers and I water about 1 hour every 2 or 3 days. Check the ground around them down about 16 inches. It should be damp. Judy --- marquistar@aol.com wrote: > I'm so confused! How much shall I water my roses? > They're on bubblers and I keep getting conflicting > info. How about my agaves(they're on a drip system). > Currently, I'm watering my roses every other day for > 7 minutes. They get morning sun, and look dry, > yellow. My agaves get an hour and a half every third > day. They were planted in March, and are quite > yellow on the outside stems. Thanks for any > suggestions. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Autos - Get free new car price quotes http://autos.yahoo.com From michele5000@crayonmail.com Mon Jul 15 08:59:48 2002 From: michele5000@crayonmail.com (Michele Robertson) Date: 15 Jul 2002 08:59:48 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Arid_gardener digest, Vol 1 #398 - 17 msgs Message-ID: <20020715085948.8844.qmail@machiavelli.synacor.com> In reply to the Question of the seed for Yucca Palo Verde, Penstemon Mix etc I'm no Master Gardener. But my Practical experience would be to suggest that you soak the seed in hot water overnight and plant in well drained soil. Sometimes you can presprout them in vermiculite in a baggy and then put the sprouts into the soil directly. Plant depths in accordance of seed size. If they were dated for this year planting they should be cold stratisfied already if needed. Michele from Joshua Tree, California, Mojave Desert. On Sun, 14 Jul 2002 08:59:49 -0700 (MST) arid_gardener-request@Ag.arizona.edu wrote: Send Arid_gardener mailing list submissions to arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to arid_gardener-request@Ag.Arizona.Edu You can reach the person managing the list at arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Arid_gardener digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (lpc1087@yahoo.com) 2. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (lpc1087@yahoo.com) 3. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (ka7thy@netzero.net) 4. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (etvl@att.net) 5. Re: nicotiana glauca (RkBetu@aol.com) 6. Re: blackberries (Linda Drew) 7. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (jrsmikk@cs.com) 8. Vitex Tree with yellow leaves (Rod McKusick) 9. Tree Pruning (Rod McKusick) 10. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (artbornstein@netscape.net) 11. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (nicolepemberton@yahoo.com) 12. Re: arid plants description and growing information (Linda Drew) 13. Re: propagation (Linda Drew) 14. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (jtperry06@msn.com) 15. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (rxpete2@hotmail.com) 16. ĎÖ´ú»ŻĆóҵĐű´«ĘֶΠ(hrhk@hallmark.com ) 17. 100 different ways you can help save water. (Lucy Bradley) --__--__-- Message: 1 Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 09:10:09 -0700 (MST) To: From: lpc1087@yahoo.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page --__--__-- Message: 2 Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 09:14:42 -0700 (MST) To: From: lpc1087@yahoo.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Two large saguaro's in my front yard have splitting around a yellow white center. While birds have nested in holes in the cactus, I don't believe they have created this dead looking area. Can you tell me what's happening? --__--__-- Message: 3 Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 10:44:52 -0700 (MST) To: From: ka7thy@netzero.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Is it possible to grow blackberries in the Phoenix area? --__--__-- Message: 4 Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 10:46:25 -0700 (MST) To: From: etvl@att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a Eucalyptus tree appx 40yrs old, that has for about 10yrs had black goo on about 1/3 of the trunk base where it meets the ground and comes up about 4'...also, the neighbor cut off one very healthy limb over his yard, and now of the 3 main trunks that go up, the one that had held that now severed limb is growing and pushing against the neighbors 6' wall threatening to push it down. Is this tree's vitality threatened? Is there a way to avoid a tree service doing more damage or over cutting . It looks like the leaning trunk would be too heavy for even the strongest cables pulling it back. Any guidance you may supply would be appreciated. I am appx 44th St. and Camelback Rd. Rob Turner --__--__-- Message: 5 From: RkBetu@aol.com Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 16:21:58 EDT Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] nicotiana glauca To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Thanks Linda, I've wondered about the watering. Most of my soil is very sandy and drains very fast. There is organic buildup in some areas. However, I've seen the glauca in less cared for areas do the same thing (raw desert ground, little water). I have one plant in a large planter (along with a few pepper plants), that is about 5 years old. It gets pruned to stay smaller, watered every other day, and richer soil added, and it is doing fine. Another question about n. glauca: Neighbors have planted some transplants and want to know if they can smoke it like regular tobacco. I've been asked this question a lot and always tell them they shouldn't, yet I've read that Native Americans do. While I know nicotine is considered a poison, is the glauca different from "smokable" tobaccos? What might happen if someone dried it and tried to smoke it like a cigarette? Thanks again, Rocki in Wittmann --__--__-- Message: 6 From: "Linda Drew" To: ka7thy@netzero.net, arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] blackberries Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 20:35:42 +0000 yes. First, choose a variety suited to our climate. Those developed at Texas A&M seem to do well in S. Arizona. The best time to plant berries is in January and/or February. Blackberries are best started from root cuttings. The best blackberries for your area are Brazos, Rosborough, and Shawnee. There are two thornless blackberry selections you may want to try, Navajo and Arapho. The only significant problem you may encounter is iron chlorosis caused by high pH soils. You will probably need to apply iron chelates if your soil pH is above 7.5. For more information, use your favorite search engine and enter a search for "rosborough blackberry'. A publication which you might be able to pick up from the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension office is Growing Blackberries in the Low Desert by Glenn C. Wright of the Department of Plant Services, U. of A., Yuma Mesa Agricultural Center in Yuma. This publication is the result of a study conducted to prove that blackberries could be grown in Southern Arizona. The publication includes fertilization and pruning, as well as irrigation. You can contact the Cooperative Extension office at 4341 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040,(602) 470-8086. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: ka7thy@netzero.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 10:44:52 -0700 (MST) > >Is it possible to grow blackberries in the Phoenix area? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com --__--__-- Message: 7 Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 14:22:18 -0700 (MST) To: From: jrsmikk@cs.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I would like to know what could be the cause of yellowing of the leaves on my vitex tree and what I can do about it. I deep water it about every 3 weeks. It's about 4 years old. Thank you. Joanne Mikkelson --__--__-- Message: 8 Reply-To: "Rod McKusick" From: "Rod McKusick" To: Cc: Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 15:09:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Vitex Tree with yellow leaves Joanne, The Vitex tree can exist on very little water, however in order for the tree to look its best it should receive a moderate amount of water. I suggest deep watering every 10 days to two weeks. The yellow leaves tell me that the tree needs more water since you are watering only every three weeks. I have two Vitex trees that are summer watered every 10 days that look fine. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: jrsmikk@cs.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Friday, July 12, 2002 2:30 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I would like to know what could be the cause of yellowing of the leaves on my vitex tree and what I can do about it. I deep water it about every 3 weeks. It's about 4 years old. Thank you. Joanne Mikkelson > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > --__--__-- Message: 9 Reply-To: "Rod McKusick" From: "Rod McKusick" To: Cc: Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 15:29:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tree Pruning Rob, The black goo that you see on your eucalyptus is quite common and should not be cause for concern. However the branch that threatens your neighbors fence is of concern. If you are not able to remove the limb yourself I would suggest that you have a Certified Arborist do the job, he will be equipped to do what ever is required. It sounds like the limb should be removed at the trunk of the tree. If the tree is in good health removal of the limb should not affect the tree appreciably. The Arborist will be able after seeing the tree to give you an appraisal of what you can expect from the tree. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist -----Original Message----- From: etvl@att.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Friday, July 12, 2002 10:50 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I have a Eucalyptus tree appx 40yrs old, that has for about 10yrs had black goo on about 1/3 of the trunk base where it meets the ground and comes up about 4'...also, the neighbor cut off one very healthy limb over his yard, and now of the 3 main trunks that go up, the one that had held that now severed limb is growing and pushing against the neighbors 6' wall threatening to push it down. Is this tree's vitality threatened? Is there a way to avoid a tree service doing more damage or over cutting . It looks like the leaning trunk would be too heavy for even the strongest cables pulling it back. Any guidance you may supply would be appreciated. I am appx 44th St. and Camelback Rd. Rob Turner > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > --__--__-- Message: 10 Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 17:08:10 -0700 (MST) To: From: artbornstein@netscape.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Is there any interest in local water gardening and small ponds with and without fish. I have a small above ground pond with fish and plants. I would like to learn more about the plants and their problems. Any contact would be appreciated. Art --__--__-- Message: 11 Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 00:57:18 -0700 (MST) To: From: nicolepemberton@yahoo.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I was given several packs of seeds including (cactus, yucca, blue palo verde, parry's penstemon etc) and I would like to know if there is a description available for each plant along with advice on how to grow them successfully on your website. Many thanks for letting me now. --__--__-- Message: 12 From: "Linda Drew" To: nicolepemberton@yahoo.com, arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] arid plants description and growing information Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 12:57:26 +0000 Try the Arid Plant Manual: http://ag.arizona.edu/pima/gardening/aridplants/aridplant_index.html Look the plant up by its common name for a picture and information on cultural requirements, landscape use, etc. For information on cactus: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/cacti/index.html This is one of the chapters in the Master Gardener Manual. Good luck on growing your seeds! Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: nicolepemberton@yahoo.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 00:57:18 -0700 (MST) > >I was given several packs of seeds including (cactus, yucca, blue palo >verde, parry's penstemon etc) and I would like to know if there is a >description available for each plant along with advice on how to grow them >successfully on your website. Many thanks for letting me now. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com --__--__-- Message: 13 From: "Linda Drew" To: nicolepemberton@yahoo.com, arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] propagation Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 14:38:54 +0000 p.s. Another good souce for information is the chapter on plant propagation in the Master Gardener Manual: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/propagation/index.html >From: nicolepemberton@yahoo.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 00:57:18 -0700 (MST) > >I was given several packs of seeds including (cactus, yucca, blue palo >verde, parry's penstemon etc) and I would like to know if there is a >description available for each plant along with advice on how to grow them >successfully on your website. Many thanks for letting me now. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gar _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com --__--__-- Message: 14 Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 17:18:58 -0700 (MST) To: From: jtperry06@msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We recntly purchased a home in the West Valley, Litchfield Park address but live on county land NE corner Dysart & Indian School Road. Had landscaping done in September of 2001. My small front lawn, Bermuda grass is turning somewhat brown yet I water regularly, every third day, and fertilize every couple of months, Scotts. Trees aren't doing so great either. I'm wondering if what I'm doing isn't the best for soil out here. How can find out what kind of soil type I have? Regards, Jesus Perry --__--__-- Message: 15 Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 20:36:21 -0700 (MST) To: From: rxpete2@hotmail.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a 12 year old shammel ash tree that is dropping billions of seeds this time of year. Is there anything that can be done to sterilize the tree or suppress the development of these seeds? --__--__-- Message: 16 From: "hrhk@hallmark.com " To: Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 19:11:56 +0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] ĎÖ´ú»ŻĆóҵĐű´«ĘֶΠHello: (If you can't read the email,please click here http://www.jjyx.com/serve/advertise.htm) Thank you ×đľ´µÄĎČÉú/ŮʿŁş ŇřşÓÖ®ĐÇąă¸ć·ţÎńŁş żÉÔÚČ«ąúÄËÖÁĘŔ˝ç·¶Î§·˘˛ĽĐĹϢŁ¬Í¶·Ĺąă¸ćˇŁ Ň» ąă¸ćÓĘĽţŁşżÉ¸ůľÝÄúµÄĐčŇŞŁ¬ÔÚąúÄÚÖ¸¶¨ÇřÓňŁ¬µŘµă»ňĐĐҵ˝řĐĐąă¸ćÓĘĽţĐĹϢ·˘˛ĽµČˇŁĆäĚصăĘÇŁş·¶Î§ąăŁ¬Ę±Đ§¸ßŁ¬ĽŰ¸ńµ×ˇŁ10Íň·â¶¨ĎňÓĘĽţ·˘˛Ľ˛Ĺ300Ł¬1000ÍňÓĘĽţµŘÖ·łöĘŰ˝ö150ÔŞˇŁąă¸ćÓĘĽţĎęϸ±¨ĽŰÇëµă»÷Łşhttp://www.jjyx.com/serve/advertise.htm ÎŇĂÇÓµÓĐ°´Č«ąúµŘÇřŁ¬ĐĐҵ·ÖŔŕĘýǧÍňÓĘĽţµŘÖ·Ľ°ÍęÉƵķ˘˛ĽĎµÍłŁ¬ËćʱΪÄăĚáą©ÂúŇâµÄ·ţÎńˇŁ»úÓöÄѵã¬¸ĎżěĐжŻ°ÉŁ¬ČĂÄăµÄĆóҵŁ¬ą«ËľÁ˘Ľ´ŐĆÎŐÉĚ»ú´«Ă˝µÄĂüÂö------ąă¸ćE-MAILˇŁ ¶ţ 70ÖÖ×îĐÂÖřĂűÓĘĽţËŃË÷Ł¬Čş·˘Ł¬·Ö¸îŁ¬ŃéЧČíĽţˇŁČĂÄúÄܶĚʱĽäÔÚ»ĄÁŞÍřÉĎÖ¸¶¨ËŃĽŻČô¸ÉĆóҵŁ¬ą«ËľżÍ»§µÄµç×ÓÓĘĽţ˛˘łÉǧÉĎÍňµÄČş·˘łö×ÔĽşµÄąă¸ćÓĘĽţŁ¬°üŔżÁ˵±´ú×îÓĹĐăµÄEmailąă¸ćČíĽţˇŁĆäŐý°ć×ܼ۸ńł¬ąýÍňÔŞŁ¬ĎÖÖ»ĘŰ450ÔŞ.(Č«ąú×îµ×ľŞ±¬ĽŰ¸ńŁ©ĎęÇéÇëĽűŁşhttp://www.jjyx.com/serve/advertise2.htm Čý ËŃË÷ŇýÇćע˛á °ďÄăµÇ½ȫÇň6000‚€Ó˘ÎÄËŃË÷ŇýÇć(ČçYAHOOŁ¬GOOGLEDµČ)Ł¬˝ř200¸öÖĐÎÄËŃË÷ŇýÇć(ČçÍřŇף¬ŃĹ»˘Ł¬Ďă¸ŰĚí´ďËŃË÷µČ)ˇŁČĂÄăµÄÍřŐľĎíÓţČ«ÇňˇŁŁ¨ł¬Öµ·ţÎńŁ¬ĚػݼŰ400Ł© ËÄ ÍřÂçĐĹϢ·˘˛ĽŁşŇřşÓÖ®ĐÇżÉŇÔ˝«ÄúµÄĎúĘŰŁ¬ąşÂňŁ¬ŐĐÉĚ»ňşĎ×÷µČÉĚҵĐĹϢ×Ô¶Ż·˘˛Ľµ˝ĘŔ˝çÖŞĂűµÄ3300¶ŕ¸öĂłŇ׹«¸ć°ĺşÍąúÄÚÉĎǧ¸öBBSŁ¬ÂŰĚłą«¸ćµČˇŁ×î´óĎ޶ČĚáÉýÄăµÄÉĚҵ»ú»áˇŁŁ¨ł¬ÖµĽŰ350ÔŞŁ© µç×ÓÓĘĽţČş·˘·ţÎńÇëĽűŁşhttp://www.jjyx.com/serve/advertise.htm µç×ÓÓĘĽţČş·˘Ł¬ËŃË÷ČíĽţłöĘŰÇëĽűŁşhttp://www.jjyx.com/serve/advertise2.htm ÇëÎđÖ±˝Ó»Ř¸´Ł¬ÓĐŇâŐßÇëŔ´ĐĹemailŁş serve@jjyx.com łĎŃű¸÷˝çĹóÓŃÇ°Ŕ´Ç˘Ě¸şĎ×÷ˇŁ Ö Ŕń ŇřşÓÖ®ĐÇ If you can't read the email,please click here http://www.jjyx.com/serve/advertise.htm Thank you --__--__-- Message: 17 Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 21:07:08 -0700 To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu From: Lucy Bradley Subject: [Arid_gardener] 100 different ways you can help save water. >Subject: Watershed Info No 126 > >Watershed Information >No. 126 >July 5, 2002 > >Daniel Salzler >azwatershed@aol.com > > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>Four Items<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< >NOTE: Please Pass Along To Others >If your watershed is doing something you would like others to know about, or >you know of something others can benefit from, let me know and I will place >it on this information page. If you want to be removed from the >distribution list, please let me know. Please note that all meetings listed >are open to the general public. Attached to this e-mail is an enhanced >version of this newsletter with illustrations and a corrected format. To >open, click on attachment, save to your hard drive and then open with Adobe >Acrobat Reader. If you do not have Adobe Acrobat Reader, you can add it to >your hard drive by logging on to www.adobeacrobat.com. >Enhance your viewing by downloading the pdf file to view photos, etc.. >If you cannot open the pdf attachment, please let me know and I'll resend. > > > > >3. Saving Our Water Supply - It's Everybodys Business! It has been too >many days since Arizona saw any measurable precipitation The forests are >reaching an all time level of dryness, the lakes that are intended to >supply us with water for numerous years of water during drought, are >dangerously low. What can/ should all Arizonan's be doing NOW ? Here are >over 100 different ways you can help save water. > > > Inside > >1. Fix leaky faucets throughout your home. A leak of one drop of water per >second wastes more than 4,200 gallons of water per year. >2. Replace standard showerheads and faucets with low-volume heads. >3. Fill a plastic one-quart bottle with gravel and water and place in the >toilet tank. This will save five or more gallons per day for a family of >four. >4. Run full loads in dishwasher and washing machine. >5. Take showers instead of baths; restrict showers to five minutes. >6. Don't let the water run while shaving or brushing your teeth. >7. When washing dishes by hand, don't let the water run while rinsing. >Fill one sink with wash water and the other with rinse water. >8. Evaporative coolers require a seasonal maintenance checkup. For more >efficient cooling, check your evaporative cooler annually. >9. Install a recirculating pump on your evaporative cooler to reduce water >consumption. >10. Run your washing machine and dishwasher only when they are full and >you could save 1000 gallons a month. >11. Use the garbage disposal less often. >12. Keep a pitcher of water in the refrigerator instead of running the >tap for cold drinks, so that every drop goes down you not the drain. >13. If your shower can fill a one-gallon bucket in less than 20 seconds, >then replace it with a water-efficient showerhead. >14. Collect the water you use for rinsing produce and reuse it to water >house plants. >15. Wash your produce in the sink or a pan that is partially filled with >water instead of running water from the tap. >16. Check your water meter and bill to track your water usage. >17. When you shop for a new appliance, keep in mind that one offering several >different cycles will be more water and energy-efficient. >18. Time your shower to keep it under 5 minutes. You'll save up to 1000 >gallons a month. >19. Install low-volume toilets. >20. When you clean your fish tank, use the water you've drained on your >plants. The water is rich in nitrogen and phosphorus, providing you with a >free and >effective fertilizer. >21. Put food coloring in your toilet tank. If it seeps into the toilet bowl, >you have a leak. It's easy to fix, and you can save more than 600 gallons a >month. >22. Plug the bathtub before turning the water on, then adjust the temperature >as the tub fills up. >23. Designate one glass for your drinking water each day. This will cut down >on the number of times you run your dishwasher. >24. Don't use running water to thaw food. >25. Grab a wrench and fix that leaky faucet. It's simple, inexpensive, and >can save 140 gallons a week. >26. When doing laundry, match the water level to the size of the load. >27. Teach your children to turn the faucets off tightly after each use. >28. Before you lather up, install a low-flow showerhead. They're inexpensive, >easy to install, and can save your family more than 500 gallons a week. >29. Soak your pots and pans instead of letting the water run while you scrape >them clean. >30. Make sure you know where your master water shut-off valve is located. >This could save gallons of water and damage to your home if a pipe were to >burst. >31. Turn off the water while you brush your teeth and save 4 gallons a >minute. That's 200 gallons a week for a family of four. >32. Make sure your toilet flapper doesn't stick open after flushing. >33. Make sure there are aerators on all of your faucets. >34. Install an instant water heater on your kitchen sink so you don't have to >let the water run while it heats up. This will also reduce heating costs >for your household. >35. Bathe your young children together. >36. Insulate hot water pipes so you don't have to run as much water to get >hot water to the faucet. >37. Drop your tissue in the trash instead of flushing it and save gallons >every time. >38. Install water softening systems only when necessary. Save water and salt >by running the minimum number of regenerations necessary to maintain water >softness. >39. Wash clothes only when you have a full load and save up to 600 >gallons each month. >40. Cook food in as little water as possible. This will also retain more of >the nutrients. >41. Turn the water off while you shampoo and condition your hair and you can >save more than 50 gallons a week. >42. Choose new water-saving appliances, like washing machines that save up to >20 gallons per load. >43. Select the proper size pans for cooking. Large pans require more cooking >water than may be necessary. >44. Turn off the water while you shave and you can save more than 100 gallons >a week. > >Outside > >45. Avoid planting turf in areas that are hard to water such as steep >inclines and isolated strips along sidewalks and driveways. >46. Install covers on pools and spas and check for leaks around your >pumps. >47. Plant during the spring or fall when the watering requirements are lower. >48. Consider desert landscaping and plants that require less water. If you >have a lawn, consider using Bermuda grass which requires less water than >other >grasses. >49. Water your lawn only every three days during warmer months. Water during >the coolest time of the day to minimize evaporation. >50. Maintain evaporative coolers to ensure efficient operation. >51. Clean patios and driveways with a broom, not a hose. >52. Use mulch around plants to reduce evaporation. >53. Check your sprinkler system frequently and adjust sprinklers so only >your lawn is watered and not the house, sidewalk, or street. >54. Always water during the early morning hours, when temperatures are >cooler, to minimize evaporation. >55. Use a layer of organic mulch around plants to reduce evaporation and >save hundreds of gallons of water a year. >56. Use a broom instead of a hose to clean your driveway and sidewalk and >save up to 80 gallons of water every time. >57. Water your lawn in several short sessions rather than one long one. This >will allow the water to be better absorbed. >58. Water small areas of grass by hand to avoid waste. >59. We're more likely to notice leaky faucets indoors, but don't forget to >check outdoor faucets, pipes, and hoses for leaks. >60. Periodically check your pool for leaks if you have an automatic >refilling device. >61. Only water your lawn when needed. You can tell this by simply walking >across your lawn. If you leave footprints, it's time to water. >62. Adjust your lawn mower to a higher setting. Longer grass will reduce the >loss of water to evaporation. >63. Use porous materials for walkways and patios to keep water in your yard >and prevent wasteful runoff. >64. Collect and use rain water for watering your garden. (Check to make >sure this is legal in your area.) >65. Instead of using a hose or a sink to get rid of paints, motor oil, >and pesticides, dispose of them properly by recycling or sending them to a >hazardous waste site. >66. Install a rain shut-off device on your automatic sprinklers to eliminate >unnecessary watering. >67. Choose a water-efficient drip irrigation for your trees, shrubs, and >flowers. Watering roots is very effective, be careful not to over water. >68. Cut back on the amount of grass in your yard by planting shrubs and >ground cover or landscaping with rock. >69. Remember to check your sprinkler system valves periodically for leaks and >keep the heads in good shape. >70. Don't water your lawn on windy days. After all, sidewalks and driveways >don't need water. >71. Water deeply but less frequently to create healthier and stronger >landscapes. >72. When watering grass on steep slopes, use a soaker hose to prevent >wasteful runoff. >73. To get the most from your watering time, group your plants according to >their water needs. >74. Remember to weed your lawn and garden regularly. Weeds compete with other >plants for nutrients, light, and water. > >75. While fertilizers promote plant growth, they also increase water >consumption. Apply the minimum amount of fertilizer needed. >76. Avoid installing ornamental water features unless the water is being >recycled. >77. Use a commercial car wash that recycles water. >78. Don't buy recreational water toys that require a constant flow of water. >79. Buy a rain gauge to track how much rain or irrigation your yard receives. >80. Encourage your school system and local government to help develop and >promote a water conservation ethic among children and adults. >81. Teach your family how to shut off your automatic watering systems so >anyone who is home can turn sprinklers off when a storm is approaching. >82. Set a kitchen timer when watering your lawn or garden with a hose. >83. Next time you add or replace a flower or shrub, choose a low water use >plant for year- round landscape color and save up to 550 gallons each year. >84. Use a grease pencil to mark the water level of your pool at the >skimmer. Check the mark 24 hours later. Your pool should lose no more than >1/4 inch each day. >85. Spot spray or remove weeds as they appear. >86. Use a screwdriver as a soil probe to test soil moisture. If it goes in >easily, don't water. Proper lawn watering can save thousands of gallons of >water annually. >87. Install a drip irrigation system around your trees and shrubs to >water more efficiently. >88. Mow your lawn as infrequently as possible. Mowing puts your lawn under >additional stress, causing it to require more water. >89. Don't use the sprinklers just to cool off or for play. Running >through water from a hose or sprinkler wastes gallons of water. >90. Make sure your swimming pools, fountains, and ponds are equipped with >recirculating pumps. >91. Direct downspouts or gutters toward shrubs or trees. >92. Winterize outdoor spigots to avoid pipes from bursting or freezing. >93. Wash your car on the grass. This will water your lawn at the same time. >94. If you have an evaporative air conditioner, direct the water drain to a >flower bed, tree, or your lawn. > >95. Support projects that use reclaimed waste water for irrigation and other >uses. >96. Use a hose nozzle and turn off the water while you wash your car and >save more than 100 gallons. >97. Encourage your friends and neighbors to be part of a water-conscious >community. >98. Prune back heavy foliage. Reducing leaf area reduces water needs. >99. Pick-up the phone and report significant water losses from broken pipes, >open hydrants and errant sprinklers to the property owner or your water >management >district. >100. If your grass is brown, it's not dead, it's just dormant. Dormant grass >only needs to be watered every three weeks. When the rain begins, your >grass will turn >green again. >101. Start a compost pile. Using compost when you plant adds water-holding >organic matter to the soil. >102. Use sprinklers that throw big drops of water close to the ground. >Smaller drops of water and mist often evaporate before they hit the ground. >103. More plants die from over-watering than from under-watering. Be sure >only to water plants when necessary. >104. Adjust your watering schedule to the season. Water your summer lawn >every third day and your winter lawn every fifth day. >105. Bathe your pets outdoors in an area in need of water. >106. Water only as rapidly as the soil can absorb the water. >107. Aerate your lawn. Punch holes in your lawn about six inches apart so >water will reach the roots rather than run off the surface. >108. Place an empty tuna can on your lawn to catch and measure the water >output of your sprinklers. For lawn watering advice, contact your local >conservation >office. >Source: http://www.wateruseitwisely.com/100tips.html ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ --__--__-- _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener End of Arid_gardener Digest From KSchedler@gf.state.az.us Sun Jul 14 04:29:03 2002 From: KSchedler@gf.state.az.us (Karen Schedler) Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 21:29:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] RE: FW: [MG] You can help wildlife affected by the recent fires. . . Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020713212807.01c541a0@mail.sisna.com> --=====================_194469==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed THANK YOU! I'm forwarding the information below, excerpted from our Director's update to our Commissioners (re: impacts of Rodeo-Chediski fire on wildlife and habitat). The following is a summary of Department action associated with the Rodeo-Chediski fire through July 9, 2002: ...During the course of the fire, Department personnel were prepared to pickup and care for orphaned and injured wildlife. The Sipe White Mountain Wildlife Area was prepped to serve as a caring and holding facility for big game and small animals after they were initially treated at the Region I office by staff from the Adobe Mountain Wildlife Rehabilitation Center. Injured wildlife provided care at the Sipe Wildlife Area included three calf elk and one doe deer. One adult cow elk died at the wildlife area and one elk calf died while being treated at the Show Low Incident Command Post. Department of Public Safety personnel dispatched a bull elk suffering from burn-related injuries that was found outside of the Town of Snowflake. Department personnel have confirmed 25 additional elk mortalities. These include 22 elk from Canyon Creek and three from the Heber area. Subsequent to the demobilization of the Type I Teams, work on rehabilitating the burn area has begun. A nationwide Federal Burn Area Emergency Rehabilitation (BAER) Team has been organized and sent to the area. The Department has two representatives on this multi-agency team. The mission of the BAER Team is to determine initial emergencies that could occur from soil and ash movement over the burn area. Thus far, this team has determined that the Canyon Creek and Black Canyon Lake areas have significant risk of damage from soil and ash movement. The team will have a complete report of findings available to agencies the week of July 15, 2002. The Department and Forests will coordinate in determining immediate wildlife mortalities by conducting a series of ground transects to locate and analyze mortalities beginning July 13-14, 2002. These transects are located in areas where the burn expanded from 1,000 acres to over 50,000 acres in a 24-hour period. It is theorized that hot spots were created in the area where the fire moved fastest and would subsequently have the greatest wildlife loss. Data will be analyzed to determine mortality per mile within the transect area. A subjective determination of significant or light wildlife mortality will be made buy early the week of July 15, 2002. Department personnel have conducted two aerial elk surveys, on July 3 and 5, to disclose any abnormal movements or population densities of elk ahead of or outside of the burn area. These surveys resulted in 264 elk observed, mostly between Highways 260 and 77, and between Highways 277 and 377. This is predominately outside of the major burn area. The number of elk observed in this area are not considered abnormal, and do not reflect any mass movements of elk outside the burn area. The Day Burn area shows considerable increase in elk sign. The area was burned very little, and has available forage, cover and water. Additional ground surveys will confirm the presence of elk within the mosaic of unburned habitat within the fire perimeter. The Department has received numerous donations that will allow for the purchase and deployment of up to ten water tanks and drinking troughs. This equipment has been ordered, and upon arrival will be placed either on Forest or public property within the burn area to provide for wildlife water in proximity to adequate cover and forage. [end of memo] -----Original Message----- From: Lucy Bradley [mailto:lbradley@sisna.com] Sent: Tuesday, July 09, 2002 12:02 AM To: Hauser, LuAnn Cc: Karen Schedler Subject: Re: FW: [MG] You can help wildlife affected by the recent fires. . . Importance: High THANKS for your interest and support! Checks should be made payable to "Wildlife for Tomorrow", and please indicate whether you would like your donation earmarked for the "special water" fund (which delivers water to now-dry or seriously evaporated tanks), or for the "wildlife affected by fire" fund. (Sandy Cate, coordinator at our Adobe Mtn. Wildlife Rehab. Center, is on her way to Pinetop-Lakeside, where she will coordinate the rehabilitation efforts for our agency. Injured wildlife is now arriving, some with minor injuries that need a simple treatment, while others are in for a longer haul.) All checks can be sent to Wildlife for Tomorrow Foundation, c/o Arizona Game and Fish, 2221 W. Greenway Road, Phoenix AZ 85023. >~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ >Lucy K. Bradley >Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture >Maricopa County >The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension >4341 E Broadway Rd. >Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 > >Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 >Fax: (602) 470-8092 >email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ --=====================_194469==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" THANK YOU! I'm forwarding the information below, excerpted from our Director's update to our Commissioners (re: impacts of Rodeo-Chediski fire on wildlife and habitat).
 

The following is a summary of Department action associated with the Rodeo-Chediski fire through July 9, 2002:<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />

...During the course of the fire, Department personnel were prepared to pickup and care for orphaned and injured wildlife.  The Sipe White Mountain Wildlife Area was prepped to serve as a caring and holding facility for big game and small animals after they were initially treated at the Region I office by staff from the Adobe Mountain Wildlife Rehabilitation Center.  Injured wildlife provided care at the Sipe Wildlife Area included three calf elk and one doe deer. One adult cow elk died at the wildlife area and one elk calf died while being treated at the Show Low Incident Command Post.  Department of Public Safety personnel dispatched a bull elk suffering from burn-related injuries that was found outside of the Town of Snowflake.  Department personnel have confirmed 25 additional elk mortalities.  These include 22 elk from Canyon Creek and three from the Heber area.

Subsequent to the demobilization of the Type I Teams, work on rehabilitating the burn area has begun.  A nationwide Federal Burn Area Emergency Rehabilitation (BAER) Team has been organized and sent to the area.  The Department has two representatives on this multi-agency team.  The mission of the BAER Team is to determine initial emergencies that could occur from soil and ash movement over the burn area.  Thus far, this team has determined that the Canyon Creek and Black Canyon Lake areas have significant risk of damage from soil and ash movement.  The team will have a complete report of findings available to agencies the week of July 15, 2002.

The Department and Forests will coordinate in determining immediate wildlife mortalities by conducting a series of ground transects to locate and analyze mortalities beginning July 13-14, 2002. These transects are located in areas where the burn expanded from 1,000 acres to over 50,000 acres in a 24-hour period.  It is theorized that hot spots were created in the area where the fire moved fastest and would subsequently have the greatest wildlife loss. Data will be analyzed to determine mortality per mile within the transect area. A subjective determination of significant or light wildlife mortality will be made buy early the week of July 15, 2002.

Department personnel have conducted two aerial elk surveys, on July 3 and 5, to disclose any abnormal movements or population densities of elk ahead of or outside of the burn area.  These surveys resulted in 264 elk observed, mostly between Highways 260 and 77, and between Highways 277 and 377.  This is predominately outside of the major burn area.  The number of elk observed in this area are not considered abnormal, and do not reflect any mass movements of elk outside the burn area.  The Day Burn area shows considerable increase in elk sign.  The area was burned very little, and has available forage, cover and water.  Additional ground surveys will confirm the presence of elk within the mosaic of unburned habitat within the fire perimeter. 

The Department has received numerous donations that will allow for the purchase and deployment of up to ten water tanks and drinking troughs.  This equipment has been ordered, and upon arrival will be placed either on Forest or public property within the burn area to provide for wildlife water in proximity to adequate cover and forage.

[end of memo]
 -----Original Message-----
From: Lucy Bradley [mailto:lbradley@sisna.com]
Sent: Tuesday, July 09, 2002 12:02 AM
To: Hauser, LuAnn
Cc: Karen Schedler
Subject: Re: FW: [MG] You can help wildlife affected by the recent fires. . .
Importance: High
THANKS for your interest and support!
Checks should be made payable to "Wildlife for Tomorrow", and please indicate whether you would like your donation earmarked for the "special water" fund (which delivers water to now-dry or seriously evaporated tanks), or for the "wildlife affected by fire" fund. (Sandy Cate, coordinator at our Adobe Mtn. Wildlife Rehab. Center, is on her way to Pinetop-Lakeside, where she will coordinate the rehabilitation efforts for our agency. Injured wildlife is now arriving, some with minor injuries that need a simple treatment, while others are in for a longer haul.)

All checks can be sent to Wildlife for Tomorrow Foundation, c/o Arizona Game and Fish, 2221 W. Greenway Road, Phoenix AZ 85023.



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ  85040-8807

Phone:  (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax:  (602) 470-8092
email:  BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/
--=====================_194469==_.ALT-- From Jonathan Kandell" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C22B55.7C7EE260 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable My eggplants and peppers are producing heavily now. But both have fruit = which appears to be remaining undersized. The gypsy pepper plant has = peppers which seem to be stuck at 2". My Slim Jim eggplant has lavender = fruits which are only 2-3" instead of 5" or more.=20 Is it the heat? (I seem to remember getting larger fruit last fall once = it cooled.) Is it lack of phophorous? Is it just a lack of patience? jk ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C22B55.7C7EE260 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
My eggplants and peppers are producing heavily = now. =20 But both have fruit which appears to be remaining undersized.  The = gypsy=20 pepper plant has peppers which seem to be stuck at 2".  My Slim Jim = eggplant has lavender fruits which are only 2-3" instead of 5" or=20 more. 
 
Is it the heat?  (I seem to remember = getting larger=20 fruit last fall once it cooled.)  Is it lack of phophorous?  = Is it=20 just a lack of patience?
 
jk
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C22B55.7C7EE260-- From gardenguru" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0055_01C22BDE.44ECD120 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable If one has left over rye seed from last year, does the germination rate = drop for rye seed from one season to another? Thanks GG ------=_NextPart_000_0055_01C22BDE.44ECD120 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
If one has left over rye seed from last year, = does the=20 germination rate drop for rye seed from one season to = another?
Thanks
GG
------=_NextPart_000_0055_01C22BDE.44ECD120-- From jesseandcindy@cox.net Mon Jul 15 16:25:14 2002 From: jesseandcindy@cox.net (jesseandcindy@cox.net) Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 09:25:14 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207151625.g6FGPET11078@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a bug someone called a box elder bug [black and orange] that is eating my tomatoes to death! I think they come from the oleanders. My garden has only had Garden's Alive products, compost, fish emulsion. I have never used sprays or other non-organic products. I hope you can help! Thanks! From patnmike2@cox.net Mon Jul 15 16:37:20 2002 From: patnmike2@cox.net (patnmike2@cox.net) Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 09:37:20 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207151637.g6FGbKT13857@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a weeping ficus tree that I planted last October that was doing very well and had grown quite a lot since we planted it. Lately I've noticed that all of the leaves have turned a lighter shade of green. They used to be a dark green. Some of the leaves on the ends are brown as if they are burned. Is this a watering problem? From aaryn@Ag.arizona.edu Mon Jul 15 16:51:02 2002 From: aaryn@Ag.arizona.edu (Aaryn) Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 09:51:02 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Willow Acacia (fwd) Message-ID: This came to mailman owner. Maybe someone on this list can help her? ---------- Forwarded message ---------- Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 15:19:43 -0500 From: dorisnick To: mailman-owner@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: Willow Acacia What options do we have for a severly bent (leaning) tree ? It can not be pulled by pullies because of the sandy soil. What are the possibilities of sever damage if we have a crane operation straighten it?? Any reccomendations?/ It is about twenty-five feet tall and the only tree in our back yard here in Oro Vally. It is probably about five years old. Thank you for any info. Doris Nicholson dorisnick@cybertrails.com From jhayesfamily@prodigy.net Mon Jul 15 21:14:59 2002 From: jhayesfamily@prodigy.net (jhayesfamily@prodigy.net) Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 14:14:59 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207152114.g6FLExT12246@Ag.arizona.edu> I am attempting to assist my son's elementary school principal . Our 13 year old school has a wonderful courtyard in the middle of the site. It has bermuda and also has abundant trees giving a great deal of shade. The bermuda is sadly failing. Might we verticut or try another variety of grass better suited to shade? We have a grounds/maintenance staff that cut and maintain, but our parent group seems to get more personalized service. Please help! From Rod McKusick" Pale green leaves on plants and trees is often indicative of a nitrogen dificiency, it could also mean that the tree is not being watered adequately. The brown leaf tips is probably from salt burn which means that you need to water deeper. Check out these sites for for more info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://www.amwua.org/xscp-wateringschedules.htm Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: patnmike2@cox.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, July 15, 2002 9:40 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I have a weeping ficus tree that I planted last October that was doing very well and had grown quite a lot since we planted it. Lately I've noticed that all of the leaves have turned a lighter shade of green. They used to be a dark green. Some of the leaves on the ends are brown as if they are burned. Is this a watering problem? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From Rod McKusick" Palm trees and especially queen palms require a fertilizer that is low in phosphorus and high in nitrogen and potassium plus several micro nutrients. Ideally the NPK ratio should be 3-1-3 or 2-1-2 as well as iron , manganese, magnesium, copper and boron. I have not seen a water soluble fertilizer in those proportions at nurseries. I would suggest that you let your fingers do the walking, there may be a water soluble fertilizer out there. Personally I use granular fertilizer and using a water jet I form several holes around the palm in which I put the fertilizer staying at least a foot away from the trunk of the tree. Be sure to water in well. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: yawdgus1@earthlink.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Sunday, July 14, 2002 6:57 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Is there a water-soluble fertilizer that I >can use on my queen palms. The palms are on >a drip irrigation system and I would like to >root feed the palms, if possible. >Moving rocks, mulch, etc. is a bother if my >only option is to work dry fertilizer into >the soil and then water it in. A root feeder >would be a lot easier. >Is there anything out there for me? THANKS! > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From Rod McKusick" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0035_01C22C0E.C5FAAFA0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable GG, I've used left over rye seed several times and have not noticed any = appreciable reduction in the germination rate, however I'm sure that = there must be some change. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: gardenguru To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, July 15, 2002 9:22 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Old Rye Seed If one has left over rye seed from last year, does the germination = rate drop for rye seed from one season to another? Thanks GG ------=_NextPart_000_0035_01C22C0E.C5FAAFA0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
GG,
I've used left over rye seed several times and have = not=20 noticed any appreciable reduction in the germination rate, however I'm = sure that=20 there must be some change.
 
Good luck.
 
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
-----Original = Message-----
From:=20 gardenguru <gardenguru@peoplepc.com>To:=20 arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= =20 <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= >
Date:=20 Monday, July 15, 2002 9:22 AM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Old Rye=20 Seed

If one has left over rye seed from last year, = does the=20 germination rate drop for rye seed from one season to = another?
Thanks
GG
------=_NextPart_000_0035_01C22C0E.C5FAAFA0-- From Mark DiLucido" Message-ID: <008b01c22c64$a871d7a0$3e00a8c0@toddassoc.inc> Willow acacias (Acacia salicina), sometimes become top heavy from excessive watering close to the trunk and then are easily blown over by strong winds. In effect the root ball is not spread out enough to counteract the wind load on the tree's canopy. If your tree is on drip irrigation make sure the emitters aren't too close to the trunk and consider adding some farther out to encourage root development that will anchor the tree better. In many situations removal of the tree and replacement with a new fast growing species is more economical than cabling or bracing. If your certain you want to keep the tree then make sure the brace you install won't be outgrown by the tree otherwise you'll probably have to install another brace in the future. Most arborists and some tree trimming businesses will install a tree brace or cabling. I had a welder fabricate a brace for a big leaner in my yard out of 4" schedule 40 iron pipe. The brace is 'T' shaped with the bottom of the 'T' anchored in a 2' wide by 5' long by 8" high concrete "deadman" (below grade hunk of concrete). The brace rises out of the deadman at 90 degrees and has the top of the 'T' supporting the tree trunk. Another piece of 4" iron pipe is anchored in a separate deadman and is welded to the 'T' to form a triangle (in effect "pushing back" the lean). You can also arrest a lean by cabling the tree -- usually two or three anchorages (either deadmen as mentioned previously or rigid conduits sledge hammered into the ground) with cables running from the anchorages to the tree. You want to make sure the tree is protected from the steel cable by running the cable through some UV resistant heavy duty hose, old tire, piece of wood etc. I prefer bracing to cabling as I find it easier to integrate the design of the brace into the yard. Cabling also can be a safety hazard if children play around the tree and are not aware of the cables. Keep in mind that many trees can continue to grow and be healthy despite a severe lean. In my yard a mesquite with a 24" diameter trunk had leaned at a 45 degree angle through at least 10 monsoon seasons without further recline. Only recently did I feel the need to brace it, and that's because it's now so large that if it does fall it will take out the power pole that supplies power to my house and several others. Finally, what authority says a tree has to grow at 90 degrees? Japanese gardeners will tie weights onto young tree trunks and branches to purposefully redirect them to grow at an angle they think is more harmonious. Good Luck, Mark Di Lucido (not a master gardener) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Aaryn" To: Sent: Monday, July 15, 2002 9:51 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Willow Acacia (fwd) > This came to mailman owner. Maybe someone on this list can help her? > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 15:19:43 -0500 > From: dorisnick > To: mailman-owner@Ag.arizona.edu > Subject: Willow Acacia > > What options do we have for a severly bent (leaning) tree ? It can not be pulled by pullies because of the sandy soil. What are the possibilities of sever damage if we have a crane operation straighten it?? Any reccomendations?/ It is about twenty-five feet tall and the only tree in our back yard here in Oro Vally. It is probably about five years old. > Thank you for any info. > > Doris Nicholson > dorisnick@cybertrails.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From watsontl@mindspring.com Tue Jul 16 02:35:32 2002 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 19:35:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200207151625.g6FGPET11078@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <006601c22c71$76366c80$7a31b83f@oemcomputer> I have these critters all over my tomatoes, and never noticed them doing any harm. Are you sure these are the villains? When you say "eating to death" so you mean literally leaves being munched? I'd have to look it up to be certain, but I don't think that's how these insects feed. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, July 15, 2002 9:25 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I have a bug someone called a box elder bug [black and orange] that is eating my tomatoes to death! I think they come from the oleanders. My garden has only had Garden's Alive products, compost, fish emulsion. I have never used sprays or other non-organic products. I hope you can help! Thanks! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From watsontl@mindspring.com Tue Jul 16 02:31:05 2002 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 19:31:05 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] vegetable fruit undersized? References: <000001c22b90$954afdc0$2ec88044@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <004f01c22c70$d6d77940$7a31b83f@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_004C_01C22C36.2953A940 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I've seen this happening when I gardened in Phoenix and the weather = warmed up sooner than "normal." So I'd cast a vote for heat (of which = we've had more than our fair share of late) stress being the culprit. Tom ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Jonathan Kandell=20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Sunday, July 14, 2002 4:42 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] vegetable fruit undersized? My eggplants and peppers are producing heavily now. But both have = fruit which appears to be remaining undersized. The gypsy pepper plant = has peppers which seem to be stuck at 2". My Slim Jim eggplant has = lavender fruits which are only 2-3" instead of 5" or more.=20 =20 Is it the heat? (I seem to remember getting larger fruit last fall = once it cooled.) Is it lack of phophorous? Is it just a lack of = patience? =20 jk ------=_NextPart_000_004C_01C22C36.2953A940 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I've seen this happening when I gardened in Phoenix = and the=20 weather warmed up sooner than "normal."   So I'd cast a vote = for heat=20 (of which we've had more than our fair share of late) stress being the=20 culprit.
 
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Jonathan=20 Kandell
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu =
Sent: Sunday, July 14, 2002 = 4:42 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = vegetable fruit=20 undersized?

My eggplants and peppers are producing heavily = now.  But both have fruit which appears to be remaining = undersized. =20 The gypsy pepper plant has peppers which seem to be stuck at 2".  = My Slim=20 Jim eggplant has lavender fruits which are only 2-3" instead of 5" or=20 more. 
 
Is it the heat?  (I seem to remember = getting larger=20 fruit last fall once it cooled.)  Is it lack of phophorous?  = Is it=20 just a lack of patience?
 
jk
------=_NextPart_000_004C_01C22C36.2953A940-- From stephen.rath@onsemi.com Tue Jul 16 20:38:01 2002 From: stephen.rath@onsemi.com (stephen.rath@onsemi.com) Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 13:38:01 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207162038.g6GKc1T06542@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a couple beautiful, mature (> 20 yr. old) palo verde trees, and they are being attacked by the palo verde beetles. Can a healthy palo verde tree survive this beetle infestation? A branch on one tree is already brown. What do you mean by tender loving care for a palo verde tree? Does that mean watering once every three weeks? I saw one website selling nematodes that supposedly attack this beetle. Have you ever heard of such a thing? Also, I've heard of a home remedy of watering the tree with a dilute solution of ammonia. Would that help any? Thank you for your answer. Steve Rath From dnaluther@aol.com Wed Jul 17 19:00:26 2002 From: dnaluther@aol.com (dnaluther@aol.com) Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 12:00:26 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207171900.g6HJ0QT13340@Ag.arizona.edu> Is there a grass that will grow in "semi-shade"? I have two citrus trees that partially shade the ground. The area outside of the drip zone is tiff-green grass. The ground gets morning and afternoon sun. From kscudder@arrow.com Wed Jul 17 20:26:30 2002 From: kscudder@arrow.com (kscudder@arrow.com) Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 13:26:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207172026.g6HKQTT00492@Ag.arizona.edu> My Palo Brea is leaning and the leaves are limp after the storm Sun night. The bark has been chewed off in places by the local critters (I live in Cave Creek near a wash). The tree was planted 3 years ago and has been growing with no problems except where the bark is missing. I'm afraid that bacteria or a parasite has gotten in where the anmimals have chewed the bark. Does this sound like a possbility? I think this is more than just the wind and rain. Thanks! From Rod McKusick" You can probably straighten up your Palo Brea by tying it to a stake or to a ground anchor. If the roots were not exposed too much the tree should survive provided the critters have not girdled the tree. If the tree has been girdled then you may as well start over. Plastic tree guards are available at nurseries that should help to protect trees from chewing animals. Because of the extreme drought we have had wild animals are eating things that they haven't touched previously. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: kscudder@arrow.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Wednesday, July 17, 2002 2:29 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >My Palo Brea is leaning and the leaves are limp after the storm Sun night. The bark has been chewed off in places by the local critters (I live in Cave Creek near a wash). The tree was planted 3 years ago and has been growing with no problems except where the bark is missing. I'm afraid that bacteria or a parasite has gotten in where the anmimals have chewed the bark. Does this sound like a possbility? I think this is more than just the wind and rain. Thanks! > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From dubal@juno.com Wed Jul 17 22:12:59 2002 From: dubal@juno.com (dubal@juno.com) Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 15:12:59 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207172212.g6HMCxT04830@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a hibiscus that I planted last year. It went through the winter just fine and has looked healthy throughout the summer until now. About 2 weeks ago one of the trunks died off and this week the other two died. Do you have any ideas as to why this happened? Thanks so much for your help. Lisa From Rod McKusick" Both St Augustine and Tall Fescue are more shade tolerant than bermuda grass but I don't think you would be happy with either one after having a tiff lawn. It would be necessary to remove all the tiff to replant another grass. The st augustine has a very wide blade and cannot be overseeded with rye in winter. The tall fescue requires more water than bermuda and must be cut at a taller height. Further the tall fescue has not established itself well enough when planted in full sun in the low desert. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: dnaluther@aol.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Wednesday, July 17, 2002 2:28 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Is there a grass that will grow in "semi-shade"? I have two citrus trees that partially shade the ground. The area outside of the drip zone is tiff-green grass. The ground gets morning and afternoon sun. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Jul 18 22:27:06 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 22:27:06 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] re: Ponderosa Pines Message-ID: Hello, Your message regarding ponderosa pine was forwarded to me. My name is Linda Drew and I am a Master Gardener with Pima County Cooperative Extension. Western pine beetle creates inconspicuous pitch tubes and boring dust can be seen on the main trunk of attacked trees, often well above the ground. Your problem sounds different with the amount of pitch that is running. Woodpeckers can cause your tree's symptoms; their activity is not a threat to the tree. I will contact the agent in Flagstaff regarding your pines. Where are these trees growing? (I assume they are not in Tucson). Most wild-grown trees do not transplant well because it is difficult to get a sufficient rootball. I will check for more information on this as well. Linda In reply to: A new comment has been posted to the College general site Individual: Susan Coyer Email: AZDragn@aol.com City: Tucson State: AZ Country: US Comment: To Whom it May Concern:I have a question for the agricultural dept (or whichever dept. might be able to help). We have land with Ponderosa pines on it and we found several adult trees with a sap line running for several feet from the top down the tree trunk. There would be a clump of sap and then a line of sap, running for several inches to a few feet, then a clump of sap again. There had been warnings about a pine beetle in the area but the information we had on it did not describe this. Is this normal or could this be another pest we need to worry about? Also, how well do Ponderosa pine transplant? There are saplings growing and we would like to be able to transplant them to a particular area rather than plow them under when we do some clearing. Thank you in advance for your help with this matter. _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From jankahle@hotmail.com Thu Jul 18 23:08:21 2002 From: jankahle@hotmail.com (jankahle@hotmail.com) Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 16:08:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207182308.g6IN8LX20866@Ag.arizona.edu> I have been told that there is a parasite that lives in the rocky soil of the Arizona desert that attacks the roots of many fruit trees. Does anyone have any infor on this? Thanks in advance. From bob@newdigate.phxcoxmail.com Fri Jul 19 04:02:02 2002 From: bob@newdigate.phxcoxmail.com (bob@newdigate.phxcoxmail.com) Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 21:02:02 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207190402.g6J422X23672@Ag.arizona.edu> I am looking for a nice shade tree that is clean and not fast growing for the southwest corner of my home.Any Ideas? Thank you -Robert Newdigate From jamienettles@bigfoot.com Fri Jul 19 05:07:14 2002 From: jamienettles@bigfoot.com (Jamie Nettles) Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 22:07:14 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gomphrena In-Reply-To: <200207190402.g6J422X23672@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: The Gomphrena that I planted in early July is lush and green now but has only tiny, insignificant flowers. I prepared the soil well with peat moss and I water every three or four days (although I stopped when the monsoon started). I mulched. I fertilize with Miracle Grow. They get intense afternoon sun. What am I doing wrong? Do I need to use a balanced fertilizer? Thanks for any help. From saefields@netscape.net Fri Jul 19 08:03:03 2002 From: saefields@netscape.net (saefields@netscape.net) Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 01:03:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207190803.g6J833X10037@Ag.arizona.edu> I am troubled by termites in one section of my garden (not house). The afflicted area is located in the planting strip between the street and driveway, so it is confined. The problem seems to have gotten worse in the last year. What are my least-poisonious options/plan of attack ? From lewro@kingmanaz.net Fri Jul 19 14:22:58 2002 From: lewro@kingmanaz.net (lewro@kingmanaz.net) Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 07:22:58 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207191422.g6JEMvX18504@Ag.arizona.edu> I live in Kingman and want to plant Oleander as a border shrub. Can I use cuttings from a friend or do I have to use seed or purchase small plants? How do I prepare the soil for fast growth? I greatly appreciate your assistance. From sorensenm@earthlink.net Fri Jul 19 16:24:00 2002 From: sorensenm@earthlink.net (mark sorensen) Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 9:24:0 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Remove me from the mailing list Message-ID: <412002751916240360@earthlink.net>

Thank you for removing me from your mailing list.
 
--- mark sorensen
--- EarthLink: The #1 provider of the Real Internet.
 

From sbeckmansprint@earthlink.net Fri Jul 19 18:58:15 2002 From: sbeckmansprint@earthlink.net (sbeckmansprint@earthlink.net) Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 11:58:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207191858.g6JIwFX10406@Ag.arizona.edu> 15 year old Arizona ash tree is slowly dying for no discernible reason, seems to be dying from the bottom up. Different branches turn all dead, which is progressing.while others are still green, Same water schedule,nothing different about how it is cared for. Why is this tree dying and can anything be done to stop it? Thanks From Mshields@gillaw.com Fri Jul 19 18:59:43 2002 From: Mshields@gillaw.com (Mshields@gillaw.com) Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 11:59:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207191859.g6JIxhX10607@Ag.arizona.edu> I am afraid I have a bad case of fusarium wilt throughout about half of my garden. My ice cream banana and sweet 100 tomato plants are the hardest hit. My strawberries, bush beans and cucumbers are beginning to show some signs as well. Other resistant varieties such as the goldfinger banana and roma tomatoes are holding up decently. Luckily, nothing has hit the other end where the watermelons are growing. How can I treat this? I will probably have to pull everything out. How do I fumigate it? Where do I get the chemical to fumigate it? Any help you can give would be much appreciated. Thanks. From ifoulk@go.com Fri Jul 19 22:27:53 2002 From: ifoulk@go.com (ifoulk@go.com) Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 15:27:53 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207192227.g6JMRrX19098@Ag.arizona.edu> I received a catalog for bulbs. I would love to plant these in my yard but I am afraid that it would be a waste of time. I live in Goodyear and my ground is hard as concrete. Help I'd really like to plant some Grecian Windflowers (Anemone blanda bulbs) and Asiatic Lilies and maybe some tulips and daffodils. Am I just dreaming that these may come up if I plant them? And when and where in my yard would they go. Help I'm a Arizona native and I have a less than catus green thumb. ( too am able to kill catus) Sincerely Lori Foulk From sorensenm@earthlink.net Sat Jul 20 02:58:50 2002 From: sorensenm@earthlink.net (mark sorensen) Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 19:58:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Remove me from Mailing List Message-ID: <412002762025850970@earthlink.net>

 
 
--- mark sorensen
--- EarthLink: The #1 provider of the Real Internet.
 

From PERFLOWERS@aol.com Sat Jul 20 12:45:17 2002 From: PERFLOWERS@aol.com (PERFLOWERS@aol.com) Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 08:45:17 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bulbs Message-ID: <5a.ea3cba4.2a6ab55d@aol.com> Lori, The anemones do wonderful here. Forget the lilies and tulips. The tulips would do fine the first year (if you prechilled them in the refrigerator 6 weeks before you planted them ) the 2nd year if they came up at all they would be little stunted things you wouldn't recognize as tulips. Try ranunculas - they do wonderful here, along with the anemones. Other bulbs that can be planted in late Oct include amaryllis, freesia, gladiolus, iris, and sparaxis (harlequin flower). It is best to buy these bulbs from a nursery (rather than a discount store like KMart or Lowes). Hopefully someone else will tell you how to get your soil ready. I have some suggestions for you to learn more about gardening: 1. Join a garden club 2. Find a gardener is your area and ask for help - most gardeners are very helpful, even to a complete stranger. 3. Get hold of the Gardening Bulletins put out by the Maricopa County Extension Service. 4. Buy a copy of Sunset Western Garden Book Good luck. Let me know if you need more help. Val From bob@newdigate.phxcoxmail.com Sat Jul 20 18:42:14 2002 From: bob@newdigate.phxcoxmail.com (bob@newdigate.phxcoxmail.com) Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 11:42:14 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207201842.g6KIgEX11623@Ag.arizona.edu> Have you ever heard of a heritage oak. I am looking for a clean shade tree for the southwest corner of my soon to be home. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Jul 20 19:06:16 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 19:06:16 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Heritage Oak Message-ID: Heritage Oak is a trademarked selection of southern live oak (Quercus virginiana). It was developed in Texas and is relatively fast growing with attractive lush foliage. Because it is relatively new introduction to the west, it isn't known how large it will get here. Heritage oak prefers deep soil and well-irrigated places, but it can withstand periods of drought after it has become established. It is evergreen ("live" oak), but will lose its leaves at about 15F. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: bob@newdigate.phxcoxmail.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 11:42:14 -0700 (MST) > >Have you ever heard of a heritage oak. I am looking for a clean shade tree >for the southwest corner of my soon to be home. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From Nayohmme3@aol.com Sat Jul 20 21:52:39 2002 From: Nayohmme3@aol.com (Nayohmme3@aol.com) Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 17:52:39 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hardiness zone clarification. Message-ID: I would like to know the hardiness zone of Cottonwood, AZ. I am in S.C. and take care of yard maintenance for a retired lady, who will be moving to Cottonwood. And she would like to know more about what kind of plants from here will grow there. She has brought back some Agave, which seem to be doing well in pots here, and we know of one residence that has them as foundation plants, much to my astonishment, I might add. There seems to be alot of different zones in close proximity to each other, to get an accurate reading on any of the USDA maps I have seen. So if someone could respond back and let me know, which zone is Cottonwood. Thank-you Ruth nayohmme3@aol.com PS. If you have any free publications, on topics concerning growing plants, and lawn grasses, trees, shrubs, that would be very helpfull. From Rod McKusick" Since you said that you have not changed how you water this tree I would look to how this tree is watered for a possible source of the problem. If you are not deep watering the entire root zone of this tree every week to 10 days then I would suggest that you do so. Much of the Southwest has been under drought conditions for about five years and this year may be the worst. Under these conditions adjustments must be made to irrigations. There are several pathogens such as Texas Root Rot and Verticilliam that can cause the death or decline of trees. Unfortunately there is not a cure for these diseases. Lab exams can ID both of these diseases. Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 has available bulletins which describe both these diseases. Check out these sites for info on proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://www.amwua.org/xscp-wateringschedules.htm Good Luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: sbeckmansprint@earthlink.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Friday, July 19, 2002 12:01 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >15 year old Arizona ash tree is slowly dying for no discernible reason, seems to be dying from the bottom up. Different branches turn all dead, which is progressing.while others are still green, Same water schedule,nothing different about how it is cared for. Why is this tree dying and can anything be done to stop it? Thanks > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From walgreenwoman@ameritech.net Sat Jul 20 23:34:06 2002 From: walgreenwoman@ameritech.net (walgreenwoman@ameritech.net) Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 16:34:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207202334.g6KNY6X03190@Ag.arizona.edu> Could you please send me some specific names of plants that will grow in Arizona? I am thinking about moving and would like to know my options. Thank you very much. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Jul 20 23:47:21 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 23:47:21 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hardiness zone clarification. Message-ID: Looking at the maps, South Carolina is in USDA Hardiness Zones 7 and 8; Cottonwood, at about 3300 feet, is in Zone 8. However, we generally use the Sunset Climate Zones here instead of the USDA Zones, because we need to take into account summer heat as well as minimum winter temperature. Cottonwood is in Sunset Zone 10, high desert areas of Arizona and New Mexico. Zone 10 has a definite winter season of 75 to 100 nights below 32F. Annual rainfall averages 12 inches. Deciduous fruit trees can be grown; planting is done in the spring. Growing season is early April to early November. Check your local library to see if you can get a copy of the Sunset Western Garden Book. You can look up individual plants to determine if they will grow in Cottonwood. Check the website for Yavapai County for more information: http://ag.arizona.edu/yavapai/anr/hort/ Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Nayohmme3@aol.com >To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hardiness zone clarification. >Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 17:52:39 EDT > >I would like to know the hardiness zone of Cottonwood, AZ. >I am in S.C. and take care of yard maintenance for a retired lady, who will >be moving to Cottonwood. And she would like to know more about what kind of >plants from here will grow there. She has brought back some Agave, which >seem >to be doing well in pots here, and we know of one residence that has them >as >foundation plants, much to my astonishment, I might add. >There seems to be alot of different zones in close proximity to each other, >to get an accurate reading on any of the USDA maps I have seen. So if >someone >could respond back and let me know, which zone is Cottonwood. >Thank-you >Ruth > >nayohmme3@aol.com > >PS. If you have any free publications, on topics concerning growing plants, >and lawn grasses, trees, shrubs, that would be very helpfull. >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Jul 20 23:53:08 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 23:53:08 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] plants for Arizona Message-ID: Arizona is a beautiful state with a wide range of climate regions. The plants you can grow will depend on where you plan to move in Arizona. Phoenix is in the low desert, Tucson intermediate desert, and other parts of Arizona range all the way to the coldest mountain areas with a short growing season of July-August. Check the Sunset Western Garden Book to find out the climate zone of the area where you plan to move. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: walgreenwoman@ameritech.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 16:34:06 -0700 (MST) > >Could you please send me some specific names of plants that will grow in >Arizona? I am thinking about moving and would like to know my options. > >Thank you very much. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Jul 21 01:53:24 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2002 01:53:24 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fusarium wilt Message-ID: Each variety of Fusarium wilt fungus is specific to certain hosts and does not spread to other plant genera. Since Fusarium wilt fungi are host-specific, replant at that site using a plant species from a different genus. Avoid using undecayed organic amendments and excessive fertilizer, especially urea, which may promote Fusarium. Provide proper cultural care and management -- keep plants vigorous. Soil solarization can reduce Fusarium fungi in the upper few inches of soil. Cover bare, moist soil with clear plastic for about two months during hot, dry weather before you replant. Since so many different genera are showing symptoms, I would recommend you take examples to your local Cooperative Extension office to verify the problem is Fusarium. THere are other problems that can show similar symptoms. (from "Pests of Landscape Trees and Shrubs", U of Ca at Davis). Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Mshields@gillaw.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 11:59:43 -0700 (MST) > >I am afraid I have a bad case of fusarium wilt throughout about half of my >garden. My ice cream banana and sweet 100 tomato plants are the hardest >hit. My strawberries, bush beans and cucumbers are beginning to show some >signs as well. Other resistant varieties such as the goldfinger banana and >roma tomatoes are holding up decently. Luckily, nothing has hit the other >end where the watermelons are growing. How can I treat this? I will >probably have to pull everything out. How do I fumigate it? Where do I >get the chemical to fumigate it? Any help you can give would be much >appreciated. Thanks. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Jul 21 02:02:48 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2002 02:02:48 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oleander cuttings Message-ID: You can grow oleander from cuttings. To produce a flowering shrub in two years, root 3-inch greenwood or semi-ripe cuttings directly in pots in a humid environment. Bottom heat of 54-68F speeds rooting in 3-6 weeks. Grow in containers for a few months, then plant in the ground in fall. Keep well-watered and protect from frost the first winter. Air layering can also be done to produce a larger plant, but requires more time and effort than do cuttings. (from "Plant Propagation", American Horticultural Society) Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: lewro@kingmanaz.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 07:22:58 -0700 (MST) > >I live in Kingman and want to plant Oleander as a border shrub. Can I use >cuttings from a friend or do I have to use seed or purchase small plants? >How do I prepare the soil for fast growth? > >I greatly appreciate your assistance. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Jul 21 02:16:26 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2002 02:16:26 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Termites Message-ID: First, you want to determine what kind of termite you have. If you can, get some samples of the "soldiers" and take them to youur local Cooperative Extension office for identification. Encrusting termites are common in the desert and have a much reduced capacity to eat into solid wood. They come to the surface and seek out soft materials, such as weathered sticks, dead grasses,dead weeds and small shrubs, palm trunks and saguaros. They cover the entire surface with a fecal mud chamber and consume the weathered surface and papery layer of old wood. They do no harm to the palm and saguaro and are not a threat to human structures. Subterranean termites, on the other hand, can be a serious threat to the homeowner. If you believe they are in your structure, you will need to contract with a termite extermination company to get rid of them. Most houses built now have the ground pre-treated before building to prevent the entry of subterranean termites. (from "Insects of the Southwest", by Floyd Werner and Carl Olson) Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: saefields@netscape.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 01:03:03 -0700 (MST) > >I am troubled by termites in one section of my garden (not house). The >afflicted area is located in the planting strip between the street and >driveway, so it is confined. > >The problem seems to have gotten worse in the last year. > >What are my least-poisonious options/plan of attack ? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Jul 21 02:19:32 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2002 02:19:32 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gomphrena Message-ID: The plants sound healthy. You may want to try a fertilizer that is high in phosphorus (the middle number on the label) to promote flowering rather than leaf growth. Fertilizers high in phosphorus usually have names like flowering or bloom fertilizer. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Jamie Nettles" >Reply-To: >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gomphrena >Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 22:07:14 -0700 > >The Gomphrena that I planted in early July is lush and green now but has >only tiny, insignificant flowers. I prepared the soil well with peat moss >and I water every three or four days (although I stopped when the monsoon >started). I mulched. I fertilize with Miracle Grow. They get intense >afternoon sun. What am I doing wrong? Do I need to use a balanced >fertilizer? Thanks for any help. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Jul 21 02:30:53 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2002 02:30:53 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] clean shade tree Message-ID: There are several good choices. You will want to consider the space available for the tree (width as well as height), whether you want evergreen or deciduous, the climate of the area where you will plant the tree. Commonly grown shade trees in Tucson are native mesquite, sweet acacia, desert willow and eldarica pine but all of these can be somewhat messy and perhaps not have the 'look' that you want for your landscaping. Some attractive slower-growing Tucson shade trees include Desert Museum palo verde, Texas ebony, acacia aneura, citrus, Arizona ash, Heritage oak. Can you give us more information about where you live and the landscape style you are interested in? Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: bob@newdigate.phxcoxmail.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 21:02:02 -0700 (MST) > >I am looking for a nice shade tree that is clean and not fast growing for >the southwest corner of my home.Any Ideas? > >Thank you > >-Robert Newdigate > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_garde _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Jul 21 02:41:21 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2002 02:41:21 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] cotton (Texas) root rot Message-ID: You might be describing a fungus found in our native soils called cotton (Texas) root rot. Most native trees and shrubs have developed some resistance to it and monocots (grasses, yuccas, agaves, palms,etc) are immune. Plants native to other areas, though, such as stone fruit trees may be very susceptible. The fungus occurs in the soil and may or may not be present in a specific location. For more information: http://ag.arizona.edu/PLP/plpext/diseases/fruits/apple/applepo.html Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: jankahle@hotmail.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 16:08:21 -0700 (MST) > >I have been told that there is a parasite that lives in the rocky soil of >the Arizona desert that attacks the roots of many fruit trees. Does anyone >have any infor on this? >Thanks in advance. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From franschott1@msn.com Sun Jul 21 15:11:37 2002 From: franschott1@msn.com (franschott1@msn.com) Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2002 08:11:37 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207211511.g6LFBbX18817@Ag.arizona.edu> We're installing irrigation system--both drip and bubblers. Which would be better for roses--drip or bubbler--and how much water and at what interval do roses need? From lnlwood@aol.com Sun Jul 21 16:00:20 2002 From: lnlwood@aol.com (lnlwood@aol.com) Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2002 09:00:20 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207211600.g6LG0KX22018@Ag.arizona.edu> I have 3 grape plants that have done quite nicely the past couple of years, and would like to know if there is a way to start new plants from these three. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Jul 21 18:35:23 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2002 18:35:23 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] propagate grapes, cuttings Message-ID: Yes. Grapes can be successfully grown from cuttings. late spring to mid-summer: Take softwood or semi-ripe cuttings 3 inches long with three nodes (dormant buds at the bas of leaves), from closely-noded thin inner growth. Reduce foliage by half. Apply rooting compound and plant in one-gallon containers of potting mix. THey should root in about four weeks. late autumn or winter: Take hardwood cuttings with three to four nodes (buds, vine eyes). Plant in one-gallon containers of potting mix with a bud on the medium surface. Root in a frost-free place. (from "Plant Propagation", American Horticultural Society) Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: lnlwood@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2002 09:00:20 -0700 (MST) > >I have 3 grape plants that have done quite nicely the past couple of years, >and would like to know if there is a way to start new plants from these >three. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From Rod McKusick" If your roses are to be in an enclosed or raised bed where the water can be contained, the bubbler system would be preferable where the entire bed can be watered and the salts that accumulate in the root zone more easily flushed away. If you use drippers I would suggest using three drippers for each plant placed 120 degrees apart around the bush. The amount of water applied to each rose bush will depend on the size of the bush and the soil conditions. Much of Maricopa County has clay soil and under average conditions each bush should receive 3 to 4 gallons each watering. The watering interval will depend on climate conditions, in summer every two to three days. Then monthly during summer double the amount of water to help flush away the salts that are deposited in the root zone when water evaporates. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian-----Original Message----- From: franschott1@msn.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Sunday, July 21, 2002 8:13 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >We're installing irrigation system--both drip and bubblers. Which would be better for roses--drip or bubbler--and how much water and at what interval do roses need? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From MADASMITH@AOL.COM Mon Jul 22 14:09:45 2002 From: MADASMITH@AOL.COM (MADASMITH@AOL.COM) Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 07:09:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207221409.g6ME9jX20200@Ag.arizona.edu> Has anyone heard of a "GREEN BEAN TREE BUSH"? WHAT IS THE CORRECT NAME AND DOES IT DO WELL IN PHOENIX? From annedeleon1@cs.com Mon Jul 22 14:15:08 2002 From: annedeleon1@cs.com (annedeleon1@cs.com) Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 07:15:08 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207221415.g6MEF8X20809@Ag.arizona.edu> I have seen day lillies sold at some stores. Can we grow them here? If I buy day lilly bulbs from a catalog, how should I plant them? From alice333@msn.com Mon Jul 22 14:44:05 2002 From: alice333@msn.com (alice333@msn.com) Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 07:44:05 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207221444.g6MEi5X24319@Ag.arizona.edu> What are the odds of my controlling the gopher problem in my backyard with a gopher snake? I've made a barn owl nest but it will take 1-2 years for the owl to find it. In the meantime,would buying a snake really work and if so, do I just put him down in a tunnel? or what does he need to survive and STAY in my back yard? I live in S. California, LA county, and my house backs up to on open field. From yampolsky_mark@hotmail.com Mon Jul 22 16:12:30 2002 From: yampolsky_mark@hotmail.com (Mark Yampolsky) Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 09:12:30 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Bottle Tree (Brachychiton populneus) Message-ID: Hi, I have two bottle trees growing on my lawn area. The trees are approx. 9 years old. I am located in the foothills are in Tucson. Over the last three years, have had problems with my lawn dying within the perimeter of the two bottle trees. Are the droppings from the tree possibly killing the lawn? Any advise would be appreciated. PS. My lawn is a Santa Ana Bermuda. Thank You for Your Assistance. Mark Yampolsky yampolsky_mark@hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From gizmoaz@cox.net Mon Jul 22 16:36:56 2002 From: gizmoaz@cox.net (gizmoaz@cox.net) Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 12:36:56 -0400 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <20020722164215.IDAL8234.lakemtao06.cox.net@smtp.central.cox.net> Yes, you can grow day lillies here. They do best in morning sun and afternoon shade. In a well draining soil. Preferabbly a little on the dry side. I grow day lillies and easter lillies here with great success. The best time to get those easter lillies is right after easter, when they have them marked down. The bloom wonderfully about April/May. I've even had them bloom into June before. -- Chat with you later... ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.gizmoaz.com Over 250 roses and over 160 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! ***** Year of the Rose, 2002! ***** I've learned.... That the easiest way for me to grow as a person is to surround myself with people smarter than I am. > > From: annedeleon1@cs.com > Date: 2002/07/22 Mon AM 10:15:08 EDT > To: > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > I have seen day lillies sold at some stores. Can we grow them here? If I buy day lilly bulbs from a catalog, how should I plant them? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net Mon Jul 22 20:50:20 2002 From: imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net (jc) Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 13:50:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Bottle Tree (Brachychiton populneus) References: Message-ID: <000601c231c1$68ed3360$5152530c@delljor9501> It's the shade from your bottle trees. Santa Ana does not tolerate de -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Yampolsky" To: Sent: Monday, July 22, 2002 9:12 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Bottle Tree (Brachychiton populneus) Hi, I have two bottle trees growing on my lawn area. The trees are approx. 9 years old. I am located in the foothills are in Tucson. Over the last three years, have had problems with my lawn dying within the perimeter of the two bottle trees. Are the droppings from the tree possibly killing the lawn? Any advise would be appreciated. PS. My lawn is a Santa Ana Bermuda. Thank You for Your Assistance. Mark Yampolsky yampolsky_mark@hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Join the world's largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From rick_ricketts@yahoo.com Mon Jul 22 23:12:03 2002 From: rick_ricketts@yahoo.com (rick_ricketts@yahoo.com) Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 16:12:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207222312.g6MNC3X11134@Ag.arizona.edu> Our bougnavilla seem quite healthy, but not blooming very much and don't bloom for very long. The larger two, planted about a year ago from 5 gallon cans on a South facing wall, have a main stem of about 3/4" diam. and stand over six feet (one has a branch extending above 9'. The smaller plants, planted this spring from 1 gal. cans are growing nicely on a West facing wall and receive about 3 liters of water every third day. I'm not sure how much the larger plants are getting but I believe they're getting more. Plants were fertilized in May. From Rod McKusick" Bougainvillea once it has become established ( one year ) requires very little fertilizer and water and will show much more color when not overwatered. The older plants should do well watered once every 10 days to two weeks. Check out these sites for info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://www.amwua.org/xscp-wateringschedules.htm Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: rick_ricketts@yahoo.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, July 22, 2002 4:14 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Our bougnavilla seem quite healthy, but not blooming very much and don't bloom for very long. The larger two, planted about a year ago from 5 gallon cans on a South facing wall, have a main stem of about 3/4" diam. and stand over six feet (one has a branch extending above 9'. The smaller plants, planted this spring from 1 gal. cans are growing nicely on a West facing wall and receive about 3 liters of water every third day. I'm not sure how much the larger plants are getting but I believe they're getting more. Plants were fertilized in May. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From pstouse@frsb.net Tue Jul 23 12:17:38 2002 From: pstouse@frsb.net (pstouse@frsb.net) Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2002 05:17:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207231217.g6NCHcX10343@Ag.arizona.edu> Hello- I am a Horticulture Instructor for Lincoln Trail College at Robinson Correctional Center. I teach a 2yr degree and certificate in Horticulture. I have a very good student that expects to relocate to Maricopa Co. upon release. He is currnetly in Landscape Design. I am looking for a plant materials list. The course stresses the use of: form, color and texture to achieve a unified design. I have several lists in several formats for Southern Illinois but very little information for Arizona. Is there a list of Xeroscape plant material that contains: size- H&W, color, teture, rate of growth that I could obtain for use in this course. I can be reached at LTC / IDOC m-f 8:00 - 3:00 at 618 546 5659 x 5814 or at the email at my residence. ThANK YOU! PAUL From crymer@Ag.arizona.edu Tue Jul 23 16:34:39 2002 From: crymer@Ag.arizona.edu (Cathy Rymer) Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2002 09:34:39 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200207221444.g6MEi5X24319@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20020723093113.00bca100@ag.arizona.edu> Thanks for your question about gophers. Because you live in California, I pulled information off the University of California - Davis web site. The control methods with owls or snakes do not show encouraging results. Trapping, exclusion and baits appear to be more effective. "Predators, including owls, snakes, cats, dogs, and coyotes, eat pocket gophers. Predators rarely, however, remove every prey animal, but instead move on to hunt at more profitable locations. In addition, gophers have defenses against predators. For example, they can escape snakes in their burrows by rapidly pushing up an earthen plug to block the snake's advance. The idea of attracting barn owls to an area for gopher control by installing nest boxes has been explored. Although barn owls prey on gophers, their habit of hunting over large areas, often far from their nest boxes, and their tendency to hunt areas with abundant prey, make them unreliable for gopher control." More information is available at http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7433.html I hope this helps. Cathy At 07:44 AM 07/22/2002 -0700, alice333@msn.com wrote: >What are the odds of my controlling the gopher problem in my backyard with >a gopher snake? I've made a barn owl nest but it will take 1-2 years for >the owl to find it. In the meantime,would buying a snake really work and >if so, do I just put him down in a tunnel? or what does he need to survive >and STAY in my back yard? I live in S. California, LA county, and my house >backs up to on open field. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Catherine Rymer Instructional Specialist, Sr., Urban Horticulture University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Phoenix, AZ 85040 http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ From crymer@Ag.arizona.edu Tue Jul 23 16:59:48 2002 From: crymer@Ag.arizona.edu (Cathy Rymer) Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2002 09:59:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200207231217.g6NCHcX10343@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20020723093909.00be4180@ag.arizona.edu> Hi Paul, Thanks for your question. I would recommend the following resources. 1) Low Water Use/Drought Tolerant Plant List from the Arizona Department of Water Resources. http://water.az.gov/documents/PlantLists/PHXPlantList2001.pdf Plants on this list must be used in public properties and rights of way. 2) Desert Landscaping CD ROM. A CD-ROM plant selector covering over 600 low water-use plants. Search by plant name, browse award-winning landscapes, compare groups of similar plants, or use the plant selector to precisely describe the plants you seek. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/cd.htm 3) Native Plants for Southwestern Landscapes. by Judy Mielke (also Phoenix Landscape Architect and resident) Austin: University of Texas Press. Descriptions and color photographs of over 300 trees, shrubs, vines, grasses, ground covers, wild and other plants native to the southwestern deserts that are suitable for landscapes. ISBN 0-292-75147-8 4) There are a number of colored brochures available from the Arizona Municipal Water Users on Xeriscape, including a plant list with the details you need. Great pictures, free to residents. http://www.amwua.org/conservation-xeriscape.htm I hope this helps. Cathy At 05:17 AM 07/23/2002 -0700, pstouse@frsb.net wrote: >Hello- > I am a Horticulture Instructor for Lincoln Trail College at Robinson > Correctional Center. I teach a 2yr degree and certificate in > Horticulture. I have a very good student that expects to relocate to > Maricopa Co. upon release. He is currnetly in Landscape Design. I am > looking for a plant materials list. The course stresses the use of: form, > color and texture to achieve a unified design. I have several lists in > several formats for Southern Illinois but very little information for > Arizona. Is there a list of Xeroscape plant material that contains: size- > H&W, color, teture, rate of growth that I could obtain for use in this > course. I can be reached at LTC / IDOC m-f 8:00 - 3:00 at 618 546 5659 x > 5814 or at the email at my residence. ThANK YOU! PAUL > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Catherine Rymer Instructional Specialist, Sr., Urban Horticulture University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Phoenix, AZ 85040 http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ From eschaum@msn.com Tue Jul 23 18:49:58 2002 From: eschaum@msn.com (eschaum@msn.com) Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2002 11:49:58 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207231849.g6NInwX14457@Ag.arizona.edu> We are new to the desert and are trying to learn gardening and landscaping. We are losing a large tree (12in dia. trunk) we were told the tree was an Australian Bottle tree.I dont know that for a fact. The leaves are all turning brown and falling off.A few of the leaves look as though they may have been chewed on but I never see any bugs on them.I have tried deep root feeding with water but there has been no improvemnt. any help on this will be appreciated I also have an alepo pine and the top is growing muh wider han the bottom. Is this normal ????or do I need to trim it????? ThanksARt S. From lamaintenance@ilxresorts.com Tue Jul 23 19:57:35 2002 From: lamaintenance@ilxresorts.com (lamaintenance@ilxresorts.com) Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2002 12:57:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207231957.g6NJvZX26854@Ag.arizona.edu> We are a large resort in the Sedona area, and are seeking advise as to the viability of planting a single cactus specimen in a raised fixed planter with a total soil volume of approximatly 30"W X 36"D. This planter resides outside next to a pool. We have favored the Saguaro but are unsure as to whether it would survive our 4500ft elevation and winters. Another variety we are curious about is the Euphorbia Grandi Cornus. Any advise or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Kurt VanEvera From maintla@ilxresorts.com Tue Jul 23 20:10:18 2002 From: maintla@ilxresorts.com (maintla@ilxresorts.com) Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2002 13:10:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207232010.g6NKAIX29354@Ag.arizona.edu> We are a large resort in the Sedona area, and are seeking advise as to the viability of planting a single cactus specimen in a raised fixed planter with a total soil volume of approximatly 30"W X 36"D. This planter resides outside next to a pool. We have favored the Saguaro but are unsure as to whether it would survive our 4500ft elevation and winters. Another variety we are curious about is the Euphorbia Grandi Cornus. Any advise or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Kurt VanEvera From sorensenm@earthlink.net Tue Jul 23 20:35:04 2002 From: sorensenm@earthlink.net (mark sorensen) Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2002 13:35:4 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] REMOVE me from your mailing list Message-ID: <41200272232035460@earthlink.net>

 
 
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From Rod McKusick" When the leaves on a tree turn brown and fall off it is an indication that the tree is not getting enough water. Check out these sites for info on proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://www.amwua.org/xscp-wateringschedules.htm Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: eschaum@msn.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Tuesday, July 23, 2002 11:53 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >We are new to the desert and are trying to learn gardening and landscaping. >We are losing a large tree (12in dia. trunk) >we were told the tree was an Australian Bottle tree.I dont know that for a fact. >The leaves are all turning brown and falling off.A few of the leaves look as though they may have been chewed on but I never see any bugs on them.I have tried deep root feeding with water but there has been no improvemnt. > >any help on this will be appreciated >I also have an alepo pine and the top is growing muh wider han >the bottom. Is this normal ????or do I need to trim it????? > >ThanksARt S. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From dhudson@begamlaw.com Wed Jul 24 19:21:19 2002 From: dhudson@begamlaw.com (dhudson@begamlaw.com) Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 12:21:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200207241921.g6OJLJX13120@Ag.arizona.edu> I am being invaded by Palo Verde Beetles. They scare the heck out me. Anything I can do about them/will they leave soon? From crymer@Ag.arizona.edu Wed Jul 24 20:43:12 2002 From: crymer@Ag.arizona.edu (Cathy Rymer) Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 13:43:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200207231957.g6NJvZX26854@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20020724104018.00961f00@ag.arizona.edu> Hi Kurt, Thanks for your question. If you and your company are landscaping with desert-adapted plants, you might find that the Desert Landscaping CD ROM from the University of Arizona Department of Water Resources is an indispensable tool. You can use the search feature provided to select plants