From jondels@attglobal.net Sat Jun 1 05:13:42 2002 From: jondels@attglobal.net (J. Delson) Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 22:13:42 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lime tree doing poorly Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020531215759.00b40200@pop1.attglobal.net> My Mexican lime tree which was planted from a 24" box about 14 months ago is doing poorly this year. It is on the north side of the house. The soil is clay-like. Although it flowered well, almost all the blossoms dropped off with only a few limes now growing. If I water it (usually 30 minutes) at weekly intervals many of the leaves turn completely yellow and drop off. They also curl. If I water it any more often, the leaves look sickly and have green veins with large areas of yellow surrounding, which I always thought was a sign of over-watering. I use ironite on the soil occasionally which doesn't seem to help. About 10 feet away there is an orange tree about 10 years old which does great with watering every few weeks. What can I do to bring this tree around? I appreciate any feedback. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Jun 1 13:07:41 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2002 13:07:41 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] pruning desert shrubs Message-ID: Prune cassias lightly and keep natural shape. (Do you know which particular cassia you have?) Mexican bird - (this is the one with very green leaves and yellow flowers) is usually pruned in late spring to remove any long lanky branches. It is a little late, but if the plant is healthy and vigorously growing probably O.K. to prune now. Red bird (red & yellow flowers) is pruned in midsummer (now) to control exuberant growth. Major pruning is done in late winter. Desert bird (yellow flowers with red stamens, sparse growth) is also pruned in winter. Roses are usually pruned lightly in October and often more heavily pruned in January. Roses are not pruned back as far in the desert as they are in the north. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Sindi Stack" >To: "Linda Drew" >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Cassia, brown seed pods >Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 18:25:36 -0700 > >My cassias do not bloom in the summer only during winter. They have >finished blooming so is it OK to prune them now and how far back can they >be >pruned. Can they be pruned back as far as my roses and Mexican bird? >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Linda Drew" >To: ; >Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002 9:07 PM >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Cassia, brown seed pods > > > > > > Remove brown seed pods with a light natural pruning > > (similar to deadheading roses) > > or just knock off the pods after seeds have set to improve > > appearance. > > > > Cassias are usually pruned after summer flowering or while > > deciduous in winter. Prune naturally to keep plant form. > > Do not shear into globes or squares. > > > > For more information, check the book "Pruning, Planting & Care" > > by Eric A. Johnson. > > > > Linda Drew > > Master Gardener > > > > >From: AZDesertGal@att.net > > >To: > > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > >Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 20:17:44 -0700 (MST) > > > > > >I have a couple of large (5X5) cassia shrubs. They look good in the >cooler > > >weather but now the flowers have gone and the bush has brown pod like > > >things hanging all over it. Is it possible to prune this plant and if >so > > >how? > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > > >Arid_gardener mailing list > > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com > > _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From tommie1@cox.net Sat Jun 1 15:00:00 2002 From: tommie1@cox.net (tommie1@cox.net) Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 08:00:00 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206011500.g51F00G22808@Ag.arizona.edu> Three years ago I planted midiron sod. Up to now it was doing fine. This spring it started showing brown spots..some have now grown to three feet. I was watering at night but now I water twice a week in the morning . Any idea what happened? Thx. Tom Nolta From ldcolgan@earthlink.net Sat Jun 1 17:08:42 2002 From: ldcolgan@earthlink.net (ldcolgan@earthlink.net) Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 10:08:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206011708.g51H8gG03518@Ag.arizona.edu> Can you tell me why my cucumbers are bitter tasting? The plant looks healthy the cucumbers look delicious and crisp, but they taste bitter. From watsontl@mindspring.com Sat Jun 1 17:25:24 2002 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 10:25:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200206011708.g51H8gG03518@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000e01c20991$521c75e0$4409b83f@oemcomputer> The bitter taste is a chemical the plants usually produce in response to stress, usually the stress of some sort of insect pest attacking the plants. I've gotten bitter cucumbers this way twice: first the problem was cucumber beetles, with are like little green lady bugs, and have either stripes or spots. The second time the plants were attacked by squash vine borers. I'm told this is actually the more common problem of the two. If the vines have a tendency to wilt badly between waterings, check the first few inches of stem (from the ground up) and see if you find a swelling, or a mass of what might be described as wet sawdust oozing from the stem. You can slit the stem and remove the grub inside (actually the larva of a moth), the bind the wound up with a strip of old nylon stocking. (Wraping the first 4 or 5 inches of stem to begin with, by the way, can prevent the pest.) Survival of the plant is not assured, should you need to remove a grub, but it works often enough to beat just giving up. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, June 01, 2002 10:08 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Can you tell me why my cucumbers are bitter tasting? The plant looks healthy the cucumbers look delicious and > crisp, but they taste bitter. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Jun 1 18:26:33 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2002 18:26:33 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] lawn, brown spots Message-ID: I would suggest you collect a sample at the edge of the brown spot (some healthy grass, some sick and some dead), dig down about 12 inches and put the sample in a sealed plastic bag and refrigerate. Take the sample to your local Cooperative Extension Office for positive ID. Most lawn problems are watering problems -- too much, too little, compacted soil, sprinkler missing a spot, thatch builup, etc. But the problem might be a fungal disease like spring dead spot. If it is spring dead spot, maintaining a healthy turf will speed recovery. Aerating and verticutting can spread the fungus. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: tommie1@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 08:00:00 -0700 (MST) > >Three years ago I planted midiron sod. Up to now it was doing fine. This >spring it started showing brown spots..some have now grown to three feet. I >was watering at night but now I water twice a week in the morning . Any >idea what happened? > >Thx. Tom Nolta > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From rodmcq6@highstream.net Sat Jun 1 20:18:41 2002 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (rodmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 13:18:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lime tree doing poorly Message-ID: <002201c209a9$def4bfa0$5f31db43@ibmbna6040> Citrus trees typically do not bear fruit until they have been in the ground for 4 to 5 years, until that time the tree automatically drops most of its fruit. The green veins on yellow leaves on your lime tree is called chlorosis which is usually caused by over watering. You need to correct your watering practice. The application of chelated iron will usually help to correct the problem. Ironite will eventually help but it takes a long time, sometimes over one year. Check out these sites for info on proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: J. Delson To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Friday, May 31, 2002 10:14 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lime tree doing poorly >My Mexican lime tree which was planted from a 24" box about 14 months ago >is doing poorly this year. It is on the north side of the house. The soil >is clay-like. Although it flowered well, almost all the blossoms dropped >off with only a few limes now growing. If I water it (usually 30 minutes) >at weekly intervals many of the leaves turn completely yellow and drop >off. They also curl. If I water it any more often, the leaves look >sickly and have green veins with large areas of yellow surrounding, which >I always thought was a sign of over-watering. I use ironite on the soil >occasionally which doesn't seem to help. About 10 feet away there is an >orange tree about 10 years old which does great with watering every few >weeks. What can I do to bring this tree around? I appreciate any feedback. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From PGil875599@aol.com Sat Jun 1 23:31:19 2002 From: PGil875599@aol.com (PGil875599@aol.com) Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 16:31:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206012331.g51NVJG08636@Ag.arizona.edu> Why do my cucumbers get bitter? Why do all my pomegranetes split? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Jun 1 23:58:23 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2002 23:58:23 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] cucumbers bitter, pomegranates split Message-ID: >From: PGil875599@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 16:31:19 -0700 (MST) > >Why do my cucumbers get bitter? Here is an excellent answer from Tom Watson to the same question: The bitter taste is a chemical the plants usually produce in response to stress, usually the stress of some sort of insect pest attacking the plants. I've gotten bitter cucumbers this way twice: first the problem was cucumber beetles, with are like little green lady bugs, and have either stripes or spots. The second time the plants were attacked by squash vine borers. I'm told this is actually the more common problem of the two. If the vines have a tendency to wilt badly between waterings, check the first few inches of stem (from the ground up) and see if you find a swelling, or a mass of what might be described as wet sawdust oozing from the stem. You can slit the stem and remove the grub inside (actually the larva of a moth), the bind the wound up with a strip of old nylon stocking. (Wraping the first 4 or 5 inches of stem to begin with, by the way, can prevent the pest.) Survival of the plant is not assured, should you need to remove a grub, but it works often enough to beat just giving up. Tom > >Why do all my pomegranetes split? Pomegranates often split with too much water, a sudden increase of water after fruits have started to form, or uneven watering. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From erjeter@qwest.net Mon Jun 3 00:30:51 2002 From: erjeter@qwest.net (erjeter@qwest.net) Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 17:30:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206030030.g530UpG09786@Ag.arizona.edu> I have two long small-leaf myrtle hedges bordering my front yard. The hedges are approximately 3 feet tall and 3 feet wide. My question is when and how often should I prune these hedges? I pruned them for the first time this spring two weeks ago. Thanks. From bluesjam@hotmail.com Mon Jun 3 00:58:21 2002 From: bluesjam@hotmail.com (bluesjam@hotmail.com) Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 17:58:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206030058.g530wLG11596@Ag.arizona.edu> My young watermelon fruits are tuning black where they touch the bare ground.Any help with this would be appreciated. Thanks for your time JIM From allankane@cox.net Mon Jun 3 02:22:50 2002 From: allankane@cox.net (Allan Kane) Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 19:22:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: <000801c20aa5$8f5b4480$6501a8c0@oc.cox.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C20A6A.E27F4D40 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable barbara karst bouganvillia in southern california. leaves have lots of = red areas between veins and are stunted. poor plant growth, no blooms. = why? ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C20A6A.E27F4D40 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
barbara karst bouganvillia in southern=20 california.  leaves have lots of red areas between veins and are = stunted.=20 poor plant growth, no blooms. why?
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C20A6A.E27F4D40-- From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Mon Jun 3 02:56:19 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 19:56:19 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question watering trees In-Reply-To: <200205301824.g4UIOXG03648@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20020603025619.43787.qmail@web14909.mail.yahoo.com> Your drippers should be at the canope edge and you should have at least 5-8 around the trees edge. Run the water every 14 days for at least 7-9 hours.That takes care of the mature trees. For the new ones, water them on the between weeks by hand or put in another system for them till they mature. --- clogrady@msn.com wrote: > I have recently added a drip system to water my > trees. Some of the trees were just planted but we > also have several well established Palo Verdes that > we added to the drip line. The new trees require > water twice a week will this much water hurt my > older trees? Thanks for the info. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com From ingtro1@juno.com Mon Jun 3 05:30:22 2002 From: ingtro1@juno.com (ingtro1@juno.com) Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 22:30:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206030530.g535UMG04743@Ag.arizona.edu> Geraniums - oversummering in Phx. recommendations please. currently in pots, should I transplant to ground? If so, what exposure, sun-hours, shade, soil-amendments? Thank you, Ingrid From PocoLocoASU@aol.com Mon Jun 3 07:46:21 2002 From: PocoLocoASU@aol.com (PocoLocoASU@aol.com) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 00:46:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206030746.g537kLG17592@Ag.arizona.edu> My 5 gallon lisbon lemon that I planted in mid-March in Chandler has yet to put out any new growth. The leaves are more yellow then they are green and there are a couple small branches that have dried up and died back about four inches. I have a thick layer of mulch in the tree basin and my drainiage is excellent. The tree was not planted too deeply and it gets full sun. I have 3 two gallon an hour emitters in the tree basin-how often does it need watering? I water all my other established trees once a week for 6 hours on drip. Is something wrong with my tree? Would a little miracle grow help out? Thx From Norman.Kur@pinnaclewest.com Mon Jun 3 15:52:01 2002 From: Norman.Kur@pinnaclewest.com (Norman.Kur@pinnaclewest.com) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 08:52:01 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206031552.g53Fq1G10615@Ag.arizona.edu> How frequent should I be watering mature pine trees (they are about 20 feet tall)? And how much water should they be getting? I ask the question because the pine needles on the underside of the trees are brown and falling off. I would consider putting in an extension of my irrigation/sprinkler system, but it seems to me some sort of drip system would just be wasteful. Does anyone have any suggestions? From michele5000@crayonmail.com Mon Jun 3 16:56:27 2002 From: michele5000@crayonmail.com (Michele Robertson) Date: 3 Jun 2002 16:56:27 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Arid_gardener digest, Vol 1 #359 - 15 msgs Message-ID: <20020603165627.19020.qmail@whiskas.chek.com> Miss Shelli From Joshua Tree California :) I noticed I did some late summer pruning on my Mesquite Tree this last season. It weeped " Black Juice" all over the sidewalks for months. What is the best time to prune a Mesquite Tree? Thankyou in advance. Michele Robertson. On Sun, 2 Jun 2002 18:01:46 -0700 (MST) arid_gardener-request@Ag.arizona.edu wrote: Send Arid_gardener mailing list submissions to arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to arid_gardener-request@Ag.Arizona.Edu You can reach the person managing the list at arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Arid_gardener digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (AZDesertGal@att.net) 2. Re: Cassia, brown seed pods (Linda Drew) 3. re: zucchini and spinach (Steven C. Drew) 4. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (jengay@cox.net) 5. Lime tree doing poorly (J. Delson) 6. Re: pruning desert shrubs (Linda Drew) 7. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (tommie1@cox.net) 8. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (ldcolgan@earthlink.net) 9. Re: Question from Home-Hort WWW page (Tom & Linda Watson) 10. Re: lawn, brown spots (Linda Drew) 11. Lime tree doing poorly (rodmcq6@highstream.net) 12. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (PGil875599@aol.com) 13. Re: cucumbers bitter, pomegranates split (Linda Drew) 14. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (erjeter@qwest.net) 15. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (bluesjam@hotmail.com) --__--__-- Message: 1 Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 20:17:44 -0700 (MST) To: From: AZDesertGal@att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a couple of large (5X5) cassia shrubs. They look good in the cooler weather but now the flowers have gone and the bush has brown pod like things hanging all over it. Is it possible to prune this plant and if so how? --__--__-- Message: 2 From: "Linda Drew" To: AZDesertGal@att.net, arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Cassia, brown seed pods Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 04:07:46 +0000 Remove brown seed pods with a light natural pruning (similar to deadheading roses) or just knock off the pods after seeds have set to improve appearance. Cassias are usually pruned after summer flowering or while deciduous in winter. Prune naturally to keep plant form. Do not shear into globes or squares. For more information, check the book "Pruning, Planting & Care" by Eric A. Johnson. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: AZDesertGal@att.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 20:17:44 -0700 (MST) > >I have a couple of large (5X5) cassia shrubs. They look good in the cooler >weather but now the flowers have gone and the bush has brown pod like >things hanging all over it. Is it possible to prune this plant and if so >how? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com --__--__-- Message: 3 From: "Steven C. Drew" To: Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 21:27:30 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] re: zucchini and spinach This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C20820.CDCDD6B0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable My zucchini's have been producing profusely for about three weeks now, = one of the latest going about 5 pounds. Lots of sun is a good thing. = Lots of water, never allowing the plant to totally wilt is good too. A = good "rule of thumb" is that vegetables and annuals should never lack = for food or water and have really good soil. Many problems with = vegetables seem to come from too much or too little of food or water. It = is almost impossible to play "catch up" with vegetables. The season is = just too short. But you can start a second crop later on in August or = so, that may produce unitl first frost. There is no substitute for good = soil preparation including adding organic matter, gypsum, and possibly = soil sulpher and some pre-plant fertilizer that is heavy in Phosphorous, = worked well into the soil. Selecting varieties that are known to be = successful in our area is a good thing too. Plants sown from seed = often-times seem to out perform transplants as well.=20 Spinach is better grown during the winter months, as are most leafy = vegetables. Don't give up-keep trying-true gardening beats yard work any day! Steve Drew, Master Gardener, CID, CGIA This was the question: I have zucchini plants which had blossoms about 4 weeks ago but don't = see any veggies yet. How long does this process take? Should these = plants be in the direct sun all day? I have them planted under a shade = screened area as I don't believe this AZ sun is good for most plants. Also spinach. It is growing in the same location as my zucchini. I = have never seen spinach which looks like mine. Usually the leaves are = large and wrinkled but mine has small smooth pointed leaves. The = largest of the leaves is about the size of my palm. Most are small about = the size of my thumb or smaller. What do I need to do with this? -- __--__-- ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C20820.CDCDD6B0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
My zucchini's have been producing = profusely for=20 about three weeks now, one of the latest going about 5 pounds. Lots of = sun is a=20 good thing. Lots of water, never allowing the plant to totally wilt is = good too.=20 A good "rule of thumb" is that vegetables and annuals should never lack = for food=20 or water and have really good soil. Many problems with vegetables seem = to come=20 from too much or too little of food or water. It is almost impossible to = play=20 "catch up" with vegetables. The season is just too short. But you can = start a=20 second crop later on in August or so,  that may produce unitl first = frost.=20 There is no substitute for good soil preparation including adding = organic=20 matter, gypsum, and possibly soil sulpher and some pre-plant fertilizer = that is=20 heavy in Phosphorous, worked well into the soil. Selecting varieties = that are=20 known to be successful in our area is a good thing too. Plants sown from = seed=20 often-times seem to out perform transplants as well.
 
Spinach is better grown during the winter months, as are most leafy = vegetables.
 
Don't give up-keep trying-true = gardening beats yard=20 work any day!
 
Steve Drew, Master Gardener, CID,=20 CGIA
 
This was the question:
 
I have zucchini=20 plants which had blossoms about 4 weeks ago but don't see any veggies = yet. =20 How long does this process take?  Should these plants be in the = direct sun=20 all day?  I have them planted under a shade screened area as I = don't=20 believe this AZ sun is good for most plants.
Also spinach.  It = is=20 growing in the same location as my zucchini.  I have never seen = spinach=20 which looks like mine.  Usually the leaves are large and wrinkled = but mine=20 has small smooth pointed leaves.  The largest of the leaves is = about the=20 size of my palm. Most are small about the size of my thumb or smaller. = What do I=20 need to do with=20 this?


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------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C20820.CDCDD6B0-- --__--__-- Message: 4 Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 22:17:10 -0700 (MST) To: From: jengay@cox.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have been searching for the name of the tree that I have seen in some cityscape use. The tree has a beautiful and distinctive smooth shimmering copper trunk. I think it is a Swamp Mallet (Eucalyptus spathulata). Would this tree be good near a pool? --__--__-- Message: 5 Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 22:13:42 -0700 To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu From: "J. Delson" Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lime tree doing poorly My Mexican lime tree which was planted from a 24" box about 14 months ago is doing poorly this year. It is on the north side of the house. The soil is clay-like. Although it flowered well, almost all the blossoms dropped off with only a few limes now growing. If I water it (usually 30 minutes) at weekly intervals many of the leaves turn completely yellow and drop off. They also curl. If I water it any more often, the leaves look sickly and have green veins with large areas of yellow surrounding, which I always thought was a sign of over-watering. I use ironite on the soil occasionally which doesn't seem to help. About 10 feet away there is an orange tree about 10 years old which does great with watering every few weeks. What can I do to bring this tree around? I appreciate any feedback. --__--__-- Message: 6 From: "Linda Drew" To: AZDesertGal@worldnet.att.net, arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] pruning desert shrubs Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2002 13:07:41 +0000 Prune cassias lightly and keep natural shape. (Do you know which particular cassia you have?) Mexican bird - (this is the one with very green leaves and yellow flowers) is usually pruned in late spring to remove any long lanky branches. It is a little late, but if the plant is healthy and vigorously growing probably O.K. to prune now. Red bird (red & yellow flowers) is pruned in midsummer (now) to control exuberant growth. Major pruning is done in late winter. Desert bird (yellow flowers with red stamens, sparse growth) is also pruned in winter. Roses are usually pruned lightly in October and often more heavily pruned in January. Roses are not pruned back as far in the desert as they are in the north. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Sindi Stack" >To: "Linda Drew" >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Cassia, brown seed pods >Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 18:25:36 -0700 > >My cassias do not bloom in the summer only during winter. They have >finished blooming so is it OK to prune them now and how far back can they >be >pruned. Can they be pruned back as far as my roses and Mexican bird? >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Linda Drew" >To: ; >Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002 9:07 PM >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Cassia, brown seed pods > > > > > > Remove brown seed pods with a light natural pruning > > (similar to deadheading roses) > > or just knock off the pods after seeds have set to improve > > appearance. > > > > Cassias are usually pruned after summer flowering or while > > deciduous in winter. Prune naturally to keep plant form. > > Do not shear into globes or squares. > > > > For more information, check the book "Pruning, Planting & Care" > > by Eric A. Johnson. > > > > Linda Drew > > Master Gardener > > > > >From: AZDesertGal@att.net > > >To: > > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > >Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 20:17:44 -0700 (MST) > > > > > >I have a couple of large (5X5) cassia shrubs. They look good in the >cooler > > >weather but now the flowers have gone and the bush has brown pod like > > >things hanging all over it. Is it possible to prune this plant and if >so > > >how? > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > > >Arid_gardener mailing list > > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com > > _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com --__--__-- Message: 7 Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 08:00:00 -0700 (MST) To: From: tommie1@cox.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Three years ago I planted midiron sod. Up to now it was doing fine. This spring it started showing brown spots..some have now grown to three feet. I was watering at night but now I water twice a week in the morning . Any idea what happened? Thx. Tom Nolta --__--__-- Message: 8 Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 10:08:42 -0700 (MST) To: From: ldcolgan@earthlink.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Can you tell me why my cucumbers are bitter tasting? The plant looks healthy the cucumbers look delicious and crisp, but they taste bitter. --__--__-- Message: 9 From: "Tom & Linda Watson" To: , Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 10:25:24 -0700 The bitter taste is a chemical the plants usually produce in response to stress, usually the stress of some sort of insect pest attacking the plants. I've gotten bitter cucumbers this way twice: first the problem was cucumber beetles, with are like little green lady bugs, and have either stripes or spots. The second time the plants were attacked by squash vine borers. I'm told this is actually the more common problem of the two. If the vines have a tendency to wilt badly between waterings, check the first few inches of stem (from the ground up) and see if you find a swelling, or a mass of what might be described as wet sawdust oozing from the stem. You can slit the stem and remove the grub inside (actually the larva of a moth), the bind the wound up with a strip of old nylon stocking. (Wraping the first 4 or 5 inches of stem to begin with, by the way, can prevent the pest.) Survival of the plant is not assured, should you need to remove a grub, but it works often enough to beat just giving up. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, June 01, 2002 10:08 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Can you tell me why my cucumbers are bitter tasting? The plant looks healthy the cucumbers look delicious and > crisp, but they taste bitter. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > --__--__-- Message: 10 From: "Linda Drew" To: tommie1@cox.net, arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] lawn, brown spots Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2002 18:26:33 +0000 I would suggest you collect a sample at the edge of the brown spot (some healthy grass, some sick and some dead), dig down about 12 inches and put the sample in a sealed plastic bag and refrigerate. Take the sample to your local Cooperative Extension Office for positive ID. Most lawn problems are watering problems -- too much, too little, compacted soil, sprinkler missing a spot, thatch builup, etc. But the problem might be a fungal disease like spring dead spot. If it is spring dead spot, maintaining a healthy turf will speed recovery. Aerating and verticutting can spread the fungus. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: tommie1@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 08:00:00 -0700 (MST) > >Three years ago I planted midiron sod. Up to now it was doing fine. This >spring it started showing brown spots..some have now grown to three feet. I >was watering at night but now I water twice a week in the morning . Any >idea what happened? > >Thx. Tom Nolta > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com --__--__-- Message: 11 Reply-To: From: To: "J. Delson" Cc: Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 13:18:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lime tree doing poorly Citrus trees typically do not bear fruit until they have been in the ground for 4 to 5 years, until that time the tree automatically drops most of its fruit. The green veins on yellow leaves on your lime tree is called chlorosis which is usually caused by over watering. You need to correct your watering practice. The application of chelated iron will usually help to correct the problem. Ironite will eventually help but it takes a long time, sometimes over one year. Check out these sites for info on proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: J. Delson To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Friday, May 31, 2002 10:14 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lime tree doing poorly >My Mexican lime tree which was planted from a 24" box about 14 months ago >is doing poorly this year. It is on the north side of the house. The soil >is clay-like. Although it flowered well, almost all the blossoms dropped >off with only a few limes now growing. If I water it (usually 30 minutes) >at weekly intervals many of the leaves turn completely yellow and drop >off. They also curl. If I water it any more often, the leaves look >sickly and have green veins with large areas of yellow surrounding, which >I always thought was a sign of over-watering. I use ironite on the soil >occasionally which doesn't seem to help. About 10 feet away there is an >orange tree about 10 years old which does great with watering every few >weeks. What can I do to bring this tree around? I appreciate any feedback. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > --__--__-- Message: 12 Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 16:31:19 -0700 (MST) To: From: PGil875599@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Why do my cucumbers get bitter? Why do all my pomegranetes split? --__--__-- Message: 13 From: "Linda Drew" To: PGil875599@aol.com, arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] cucumbers bitter, pomegranates split Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2002 23:58:23 +0000 >From: PGil875599@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 16:31:19 -0700 (MST) > >Why do my cucumbers get bitter? Here is an excellent answer from Tom Watson to the same question: The bitter taste is a chemical the plants usually produce in response to stress, usually the stress of some sort of insect pest attacking the plants. I've gotten bitter cucumbers this way twice: first the problem was cucumber beetles, with are like little green lady bugs, and have either stripes or spots. The second time the plants were attacked by squash vine borers. I'm told this is actually the more common problem of the two. If the vines have a tendency to wilt badly between waterings, check the first few inches of stem (from the ground up) and see if you find a swelling, or a mass of what might be described as wet sawdust oozing from the stem. You can slit the stem and remove the grub inside (actually the larva of a moth), the bind the wound up with a strip of old nylon stocking. (Wraping the first 4 or 5 inches of stem to begin with, by the way, can prevent the pest.) Survival of the plant is not assured, should you need to remove a grub, but it works often enough to beat just giving up. Tom > >Why do all my pomegranetes split? Pomegranates often split with too much water, a sudden increase of water after fruits have started to form, or uneven watering. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com --__--__-- Message: 14 Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 17:30:51 -0700 (MST) To: From: erjeter@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have two long small-leaf myrtle hedges bordering my front yard. The hedges are approximately 3 feet tall and 3 feet wide. My question is when and how often should I prune these hedges? I pruned them for the first time this spring two weeks ago. Thanks. --__--__-- Message: 15 Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 17:58:21 -0700 (MST) To: From: bluesjam@hotmail.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My young watermelon fruits are tuning black where they touch the bare ground.Any help with this would be appreciated. Thanks for your time JIM --__--__-- _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener End of Arid_gardener Digest From Nancy_Fiora@azd.uscourts.gov Mon Jun 3 16:59:10 2002 From: Nancy_Fiora@azd.uscourts.gov (Nancy_Fiora@azd.uscourts.gov) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 09:59:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206031659.g53GxAG23846@Ag.arizona.edu> I am trying to find a drawing that shows one how to build a berme, (donut-shaped mound) around a citrus tree to keep the water away from the trunk. I was going to send that to a friend, but can't find it. do you know where that is? Thanks. From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Mon Jun 3 18:50:35 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 11:50:35 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200206030746.g537kLG17592@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20020603185035.49120.qmail@web14904.mail.yahoo.com> Presently the 3-2gph emitters is good. As the tree grows, add more emitters and they all should be at the edge of the canope of the tree.Established trees should be watered every 10-14 days during the summer.You should run the drip system for at least 7-9 hrs. when you water.Your new tree should be watered that long every 7-10 days.Trees can go into transplant shock for over a yr sometimes.Usually,yellow leaces are a sign of overwatering(watering to often)and keeping the soil to wet.Remember, WATER DEEP but not too often. --- PocoLocoASU@aol.com wrote: > My 5 gallon lisbon lemon that I planted in mid-March > in Chandler has yet to put out any new growth. The > leaves are more yellow then they are green and there > are a couple small branches that have dried up and > died back about four inches. I have a thick layer > of mulch in the tree basin and my drainiage is > excellent. The tree was not planted too deeply and > it gets full sun. I have 3 two gallon an hour > emitters in the tree basin-how often does it need > watering? I water all my other established trees > once a week for 6 hours on drip. Is something wrong > with my tree? Would a little miracle grow help out? > Thx > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com From s2@arcworldwide.com Mon Jun 3 19:22:44 2002 From: s2@arcworldwide.com (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2002 12:22:44 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] chlorotic bottle brush References: <20020603185035.49120.qmail@web14904.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3CFBC204.92E6F4AE@arcworldwide.com> Hi all, About a month ago I asked about adding iron to a deficient bottle brush I have (in its 2nd year, growing great, just some signs of iron deficiency.) I gave it a dose of chelated iron a month ago, but it didn't improve the new growth, which still is veiny. I just reapplied another dose about a week ago, this time a little more according to directions since it has grown substantially. How often could/should I treat this thing until I see improvement? Isn't there a danger of 'burning' a plant with too much iron? Also, the brand I picked up said "iron with chelate with directions to mix into the top layer of soil, which I can't do since there is a decomposed granite mulch around the shrub, so I just tried watering in the solution really well. Perhaps I need to pull back the stones instead? (seems like that would be a pain every time it needs iron). Also, someone mentioned something about pounding a piece of rebar in the soil around the roots for extra iron in the soil. I think it was just an anecdotal remedy... any thoughts from the MGs whether a stick of iron rebar would really do anything? (I suppose if a cast iron skillet supposedly adds iron to the human diet, a stick of rebar just may add iron to the plant's diet, but it almost seems "too" logical. haha). -- Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. Vice President, Communications & Technology ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org ===================================================== "I became convinced we are here for each other." -- R. Buckminster Fuller From joan.was.faculty@email.rio.maricopa.edu Mon Jun 3 19:23:12 2002 From: joan.was.faculty@email.rio.maricopa.edu (joan.was.faculty@email.rio.maricopa.edu) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 12:23:12 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206031923.g53JNCG25675@Ag.arizona.edu> I have recently moved into a home that borders on the Phoenix Mountain Preserve. While I love seeing the bunnies on my patch of lawn, I don't have much lawn left! There is more dirt than lawn at this point...what can I do? Thanks...Joanie From s2@arcworldwide.com Mon Jun 3 19:40:18 2002 From: s2@arcworldwide.com (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2002 12:40:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] suckers Message-ID: <3CFBC622.F7C5C618@arcworldwide.com> One more question, about suckers on young trees. My pomagranate (2nd year), sweet acacia (about 2-years old) and fern-of-the-desert (2nd year) all insist on suckering. The pomagranate I gave up on, since its already a very shrubby (10-12 main stems) specimen anyway, but is there a solution other than constantly pruning these things off to keep them from growing to begin with? Just curious. I read to water my willow acacia on one side only to prevent suckering, and I haven't seen one sucker yet. Just wondered if the same thing would work for the other varieties? -- Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. Vice President, Communications & Technology ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org ===================================================== "I became convinced we are here for each other." -- R. Buckminster Fuller From s2@arcworldwide.com Mon Jun 3 20:01:11 2002 From: s2@arcworldwide.com (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2002 13:01:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200206031923.g53JNCG25675@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3CFBCB07.31BAFE9C@arcworldwide.com> > While I love seeing the > bunnies on my patch of lawn, I don't have much lawn left! You have a couple options from my experience (also against wildlands outside of Tucson). Fence them out, or comfort yourself with the fact that you're probably saving the little bunnies in this drought. Everything four-legged is pretty desperate right now, so no other "deterrants" will do much. Just don't be surprised if other, larger, less "cute" critters follow the bunnies onto your yard if there is moisture to be had. I've personally invested in LOTS of chicken wire for my younger plants, and let them go ahead and prune off the bottoms of my larger, more established shrubs, but I don't have a lawn. We've just gotten used to the javalenas, coyotes and bobcats that come with the bunnies. -- Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. Vice President, Communications & Technology ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org ===================================================== "I became convinced we are here for each other." -- R. Buckminster Fuller From rodmcq6@highstream.net Mon Jun 3 21:54:04 2002 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (rodmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 14:54:04 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite, pruning Time Message-ID: <002c01c20b49$2eccff60$e131db43@ibmbna6040> Michele, Desert adapted trees are best pruned during hot weather. It is not uncommon for the mesquite to weep sap and especially if larger branches are removed. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: Michele Robertson To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, June 03, 2002 9:57 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Arid_gardener digest, Vol 1 #359 - 15 msgs > >Miss Shelli From Joshua Tree California :) > I noticed I did some late summer pruning on my Mesquite >Tree this last season. It weeped " Black Juice" all over the sidewalks for months. What is the best time to prune a Mesquite Tree? Thankyou in advance. Michele Robertson. > > > > > > > > >On Sun, 2 Jun 2002 18:01:46 -0700 (MST) arid_gardener-request@Ag.arizona.edu wrote: >Send Arid_gardener mailing list submissions to > arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > arid_gardener-request@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >You can reach the person managing the list at > arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific >than "Re: Contents of Arid_gardener digest..." > > >Today's Topics: > > 1. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (AZDesertGal@att.net) > 2. Re: Cassia, brown seed pods (Linda Drew) > 3. re: zucchini and spinach (Steven C. Drew) > 4. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (jengay@cox.net) > 5. Lime tree doing poorly (J. Delson) > 6. Re: pruning desert shrubs (Linda Drew) > 7. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (tommie1@cox.net) > 8. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (ldcolgan@earthlink.net) > 9. Re: Question from Home-Hort WWW page (Tom & Linda Watson) > 10. Re: lawn, brown spots (Linda Drew) > 11. Lime tree doing poorly (rodmcq6@highstream.net) > 12. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (PGil875599@aol.com) > 13. Re: cucumbers bitter, pomegranates split (Linda Drew) > 14. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (erjeter@qwest.net) > 15. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (bluesjam@hotmail.com) > >--__--__-- > >Message: 1 >Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 20:17:44 -0700 (MST) >To: >From: AZDesertGal@att.net >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >I have a couple of large (5X5) cassia shrubs. They look good in the cooler weather but now the flowers have gone and the bush has brown pod like things hanging all over it. Is it possible to prune this plant and if so how? > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 2 >From: "Linda Drew" >To: AZDesertGal@att.net, arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Cassia, brown seed pods >Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 04:07:46 +0000 > > >Remove brown seed pods with a light natural pruning >(similar to deadheading roses) >or just knock off the pods after seeds have set to improve >appearance. > >Cassias are usually pruned after summer flowering or while >deciduous in winter. Prune naturally to keep plant form. >Do not shear into globes or squares. > >For more information, check the book "Pruning, Planting & Care" >by Eric A. Johnson. > >Linda Drew >Master Gardener > >>From: AZDesertGal@att.net >>To: >>Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >>Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 20:17:44 -0700 (MST) >> >>I have a couple of large (5X5) cassia shrubs. They look good in the cooler >>weather but now the flowers have gone and the bush has brown pod like >>things hanging all over it. Is it possible to prune this plant and if so >>how? >> >>_______________________________________________ >>Arid_gardener mailing list >>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > >_________________________________________________________________ >Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 3 >From: "Steven C. Drew" >To: >Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 21:27:30 -0700 >Subject: [Arid_gardener] re: zucchini and spinach > >This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > >------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C20820.CDCDD6B0 >Content-Type: text/plain; > charset="iso-8859-1" >Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > >My zucchini's have been producing profusely for about three weeks now, = >one of the latest going about 5 pounds. Lots of sun is a good thing. = >Lots of water, never allowing the plant to totally wilt is good too. A = >good "rule of thumb" is that vegetables and annuals should never lack = >for food or water and have really good soil. Many problems with = >vegetables seem to come from too much or too little of food or water. It = >is almost impossible to play "catch up" with vegetables. The season is = >just too short. But you can start a second crop later on in August or = >so, that may produce unitl first frost. There is no substitute for good = >soil preparation including adding organic matter, gypsum, and possibly = >soil sulpher and some pre-plant fertilizer that is heavy in Phosphorous, = >worked well into the soil. Selecting varieties that are known to be = >successful in our area is a good thing too. Plants sown from seed = >often-times seem to out perform transplants as well.=20 > >Spinach is better grown during the winter months, as are most leafy = >vegetables. > >Don't give up-keep trying-true gardening beats yard work any day! > >Steve Drew, Master Gardener, CID, CGIA > >This was the question: > >I have zucchini plants which had blossoms about 4 weeks ago but don't = >see any veggies yet. How long does this process take? Should these = >plants be in the direct sun all day? I have them planted under a shade = >screened area as I don't believe this AZ sun is good for most plants. >Also spinach. It is growing in the same location as my zucchini. I = >have never seen spinach which looks like mine. Usually the leaves are = >large and wrinkled but mine has small smooth pointed leaves. The = >largest of the leaves is about the size of my palm. Most are small about = >the size of my thumb or smaller. What do I need to do with this? > > >-- __--__-- > > >------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C20820.CDCDD6B0 >Content-Type: text/html; > charset="iso-8859-1" >Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > > >charset=3Diso-8859-1"> > > > > >
>
My zucchini's have been producing = >profusely for=20 >about three weeks now, one of the latest going about 5 pounds. Lots of = >sun is a=20 >good thing. Lots of water, never allowing the plant to totally wilt is = >good too.=20 >A good "rule of thumb" is that vegetables and annuals should never lack = >for food=20 >or water and have really good soil. Many problems with vegetables seem = >to come=20 >from too much or too little of food or water. It is almost impossible to = >play=20 >"catch up" with vegetables. The season is just too short. But you can = >start a=20 >second crop later on in August or so,  that may produce unitl first = >frost.=20 >There is no substitute for good soil preparation including adding = >organic=20 >matter, gypsum, and possibly soil sulpher and some pre-plant fertilizer = >that is=20 >heavy in Phosphorous, worked well into the soil. Selecting varieties = >that are=20 >known to be successful in our area is a good thing too. Plants sown from = >seed=20 >often-times seem to out perform transplants as well.
>
 
>
Spinach is better grown during the winter months, as are most leafy = > >vegetables.
>
 
>
Don't give up-keep trying-true = >gardening beats yard=20 >work any day!
>
 
>
Steve Drew, Master Gardener, CID,=20 >CGIA
>
 
>
This was the question:
>
 
>
size=3D3>I have zucchini=20 >plants which had blossoms about 4 weeks ago but don't see any veggies = >yet. =20 >How long does this process take?  Should these plants be in the = >direct sun=20 >all day?  I have them planted under a shade screened area as I = >don't=20 >believe this AZ sun is good for most plants.
Also spinach.  It = >is=20 >growing in the same location as my zucchini.  I have never seen = >spinach=20 >which looks like mine.  Usually the leaves are large and wrinkled = >but mine=20 >has small smooth pointed leaves.  The largest of the leaves is = >about the=20 >size of my palm. Most are small about the size of my thumb or smaller. = >What do I=20 >need to do with=20 >this?


-- __--__--

> >------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C20820.CDCDD6B0-- > > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 4 >Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 22:17:10 -0700 (MST) >To: >From: jengay@cox.net >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >I have been searching for the name of the tree that I have seen in some cityscape use. The tree has a beautiful and distinctive smooth shimmering copper trunk. I think it is a Swamp Mallet (Eucalyptus spathulata). Would this tree be good near a pool? > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 5 >Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 22:13:42 -0700 >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >From: "J. Delson" >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lime tree doing poorly > >My Mexican lime tree which was planted from a 24" box about 14 months ago >is doing poorly this year. It is on the north side of the house. The soil >is clay-like. Although it flowered well, almost all the blossoms dropped >off with only a few limes now growing. If I water it (usually 30 minutes) >at weekly intervals many of the leaves turn completely yellow and drop >off. They also curl. If I water it any more often, the leaves look >sickly and have green veins with large areas of yellow surrounding, which >I always thought was a sign of over-watering. I use ironite on the soil >occasionally which doesn't seem to help. About 10 feet away there is an >orange tree about 10 years old which does great with watering every few >weeks. What can I do to bring this tree around? I appreciate any feedback. > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 6 >From: "Linda Drew" >To: AZDesertGal@worldnet.att.net, arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] pruning desert shrubs >Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2002 13:07:41 +0000 > >Prune cassias lightly and keep natural shape. (Do you >know which particular cassia you have?) > >Mexican bird - (this is the one with very green leaves >and yellow flowers) is usually pruned in late spring to >remove any long lanky branches. It is a little late, but >if the plant is healthy and vigorously growing probably >O.K. to prune now. > >Red bird (red & yellow flowers) is pruned in midsummer (now) >to control exuberant growth. Major pruning is done in late >winter. > >Desert bird (yellow flowers with red stamens, sparse growth) >is also pruned in winter. > >Roses are usually pruned lightly in October and often more >heavily pruned in January. Roses are not pruned back as far >in the desert as they are in the north. > >Linda Drew >Master Gardener > >>From: "Sindi Stack" >>To: "Linda Drew" >>Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Cassia, brown seed pods >>Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 18:25:36 -0700 >> >>My cassias do not bloom in the summer only during winter. They have >>finished blooming so is it OK to prune them now and how far back can they >>be >>pruned. Can they be pruned back as far as my roses and Mexican bird? >>----- Original Message ----- >>From: "Linda Drew" >>To: ; >>Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002 9:07 PM >>Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Cassia, brown seed pods >> >> >> > >> > Remove brown seed pods with a light natural pruning >> > (similar to deadheading roses) >> > or just knock off the pods after seeds have set to improve >> > appearance. >> > >> > Cassias are usually pruned after summer flowering or while >> > deciduous in winter. Prune naturally to keep plant form. >> > Do not shear into globes or squares. >> > >> > For more information, check the book "Pruning, Planting & Care" >> > by Eric A. Johnson. >> > >> > Linda Drew >> > Master Gardener >> > >> > >From: AZDesertGal@att.net >> > >To: >> > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >> > >Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 20:17:44 -0700 (MST) >> > > >> > >I have a couple of large (5X5) cassia shrubs. They look good in the >>cooler >> > >weather but now the flowers have gone and the bush has brown pod like >> > >things hanging all over it. Is it possible to prune this plant and if >>so >> > >how? >> > > >> > >_______________________________________________ >> > >Arid_gardener mailing list >> > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >> > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > _________________________________________________________________ >> > Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com >> > > > > > >_________________________________________________________________ >Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. >http://www.hotmail.com > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 7 >Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 08:00:00 -0700 (MST) >To: >From: tommie1@cox.net >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >Three years ago I planted midiron sod. Up to now it was doing fine. This spring it started showing brown spots..some have now grown to three feet. I was watering at night but now I water twice a week in the morning . Any idea what happened? > >Thx. Tom Nolta > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 8 >Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 10:08:42 -0700 (MST) >To: >From: ldcolgan@earthlink.net >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >Can you tell me why my cucumbers are bitter tasting? The plant looks healthy the cucumbers look delicious and >crisp, but they taste bitter. > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 9 >From: "Tom & Linda Watson" >To: , >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 10:25:24 -0700 > >The bitter taste is a chemical the plants usually produce in response to >stress, usually the stress of some sort of insect pest attacking the plants. >I've gotten bitter cucumbers this way twice: first the problem was cucumber >beetles, with are like little green lady bugs, and have either stripes or >spots. The second time the plants were attacked by squash vine borers. >I'm told this is actually the more common problem of the two. If the vines >have a tendency to wilt badly between waterings, check the first few inches >of stem (from the ground up) and see if you find a swelling, or a mass of >what might be described as wet sawdust oozing from the stem. You can slit >the stem and remove the grub inside (actually the larva of a moth), the bind >the wound up with a strip of old nylon stocking. (Wraping the first 4 or 5 >inches of stem to begin with, by the way, can prevent the pest.) Survival >of the plant is not assured, should you need to remove a grub, but it works >often enough to beat just giving up. > >Tom > >----- Original Message ----- >From: >To: >Sent: Saturday, June 01, 2002 10:08 AM >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > >> Can you tell me why my cucumbers are bitter tasting? The plant looks >healthy the cucumbers look delicious and >> crisp, but they taste bitter. >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Arid_gardener mailing list >> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >> > > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 10 >From: "Linda Drew" >To: tommie1@cox.net, arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] lawn, brown spots >Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2002 18:26:33 +0000 > > >I would suggest you collect a sample at the edge of the >brown spot (some healthy grass, some sick and some dead), >dig down about 12 inches and put the sample in a sealed plastic >bag and refrigerate. Take the sample to your local >Cooperative Extension Office for positive ID. > >Most lawn problems are watering problems -- too much, too >little, compacted soil, sprinkler missing a spot, thatch >builup, etc. But the problem might be a fungal disease >like spring dead spot. If it is spring dead spot, maintaining >a healthy turf will speed recovery. Aerating and verticutting >can spread the fungus. > >Linda Drew >Master Gardener > > >>From: tommie1@cox.net >>To: >>Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >>Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 08:00:00 -0700 (MST) >> >>Three years ago I planted midiron sod. Up to now it was doing fine. This >>spring it started showing brown spots..some have now grown to three feet. I >>was watering at night but now I water twice a week in the morning . Any >>idea what happened? >> >>Thx. Tom Nolta >> >>_______________________________________________ >>Arid_gardener mailing list >>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > >_________________________________________________________________ >Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 11 >Reply-To: >From: >To: "J. Delson" >Cc: >Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 13:18:41 -0700 >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lime tree doing poorly > >Citrus trees typically do not bear fruit until they have been in the ground >for 4 to 5 years, until that time the tree automatically drops most of its >fruit. >The green veins on yellow leaves on your lime tree is called chlorosis which >is usually caused by over watering. You need to correct your watering >practice. The application of chelated iron will usually help to correct the >problem. Ironite will eventually help but it takes a long time, sometimes >over one year. >Check out these sites for info on proper irrigation: >http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html >http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf > >Good luck. > >Rod McKusick >Master Gardener > >-----Original Message----- >From: J. Delson >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Date: Friday, May 31, 2002 10:14 PM >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lime tree doing poorly > > >>My Mexican lime tree which was planted from a 24" box about 14 months ago >>is doing poorly this year. It is on the north side of the house. The soil >>is clay-like. Although it flowered well, almost all the blossoms dropped >>off with only a few limes now growing. If I water it (usually 30 minutes) >>at weekly intervals many of the leaves turn completely yellow and drop >>off. They also curl. If I water it any more often, the leaves look >>sickly and have green veins with large areas of yellow surrounding, which >>I always thought was a sign of over-watering. I use ironite on the soil >>occasionally which doesn't seem to help. About 10 feet away there is an >>orange tree about 10 years old which does great with watering every few >>weeks. What can I do to bring this tree around? I appreciate any feedback. >> >>_______________________________________________ >>Arid_gardener mailing list >>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >> > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 12 >Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 16:31:19 -0700 (MST) >To: >From: PGil875599@aol.com >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >Why do my cucumbers get bitter? > >Why do all my pomegranetes split? > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 13 >From: "Linda Drew" >To: PGil875599@aol.com, arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] cucumbers bitter, pomegranates split >Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2002 23:58:23 +0000 > > > > >>From: PGil875599@aol.com >>To: >>Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >>Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 16:31:19 -0700 (MST) >> >>Why do my cucumbers get bitter? > >Here is an excellent answer from Tom Watson to the same question: > >The bitter taste is a chemical the plants usually produce in response to >stress, usually the stress of some sort of insect pest attacking the plants. >I've gotten bitter cucumbers this way twice: first the problem was cucumber >beetles, with are like little green lady bugs, and have either stripes or >spots. The second time the plants were attacked by squash vine borers. >I'm told this is actually the more common problem of the two. If the vines >have a tendency to wilt badly between waterings, check the first few inches >of stem (from the ground up) and see if you find a swelling, or a mass of >what might be described as wet sawdust oozing from the stem. You can slit >the stem and remove the grub inside (actually the larva of a moth), the bind >the wound up with a strip of old nylon stocking. (Wraping the first 4 or 5 >inches of stem to begin with, by the way, can prevent the pest.) Survival >of the plant is not assured, should you need to remove a grub, but it works >often enough to beat just giving up. > >Tom > > >> >>Why do all my pomegranetes split? > >Pomegranates often split with too much water, a sudden increase >of water after fruits have started to form, or uneven watering. >> >>_______________________________________________ >>Arid_gardener mailing list >>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > >_________________________________________________________________ >Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 14 >Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 17:30:51 -0700 (MST) >To: >From: erjeter@qwest.net >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >I have two long small-leaf myrtle hedges bordering my front yard. The hedges are approximately 3 feet tall and 3 feet wide. My question is when and how often should I prune these hedges? I pruned them for the first time this spring two weeks ago. Thanks. > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 15 >Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 17:58:21 -0700 (MST) >To: >From: bluesjam@hotmail.com >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >My young watermelon fruits are tuning black where they touch the bare ground.Any help with this would be appreciated. >Thanks for your time >JIM > > > >--__--__-- > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > >End of Arid_gardener Digest > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rodmcq6@highstream.net Mon Jun 3 22:03:49 2002 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (rodmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 15:03:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvillea care Message-ID: <003d01c20b4a$8b19bb40$e131db43@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_003A_01C20B0F.DDB77D00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Allan, Bougainvilea is best planted where it has full sun, and it does not = require a lot of water and practically no fertilizer. If the roots are = disturbed when it is planted it may never recover and grow. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener=20 -----Original Message----- From: Allan Kane To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Sunday, June 02, 2002 7:26 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) barbara karst bouganvillia in southern california. leaves have lots = of red areas between veins and are stunted. poor plant growth, no = blooms. why? ------=_NextPart_000_003A_01C20B0F.DDB77D00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Allan,
 
Bougainvilea is best planted where it has full sun, = and it=20 does not require a lot of water and practically no fertilizer. If the = roots are=20 disturbed when it is planted it may never recover and grow.
 
Good luck.
 
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
-----Original = Message-----
From:=20 Allan Kane <allankane@cox.net>
To: = arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= =20 <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= >
Date:=20 Sunday, June 02, 2002 7:26 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = (no=20 subject)

barbara karst bouganvillia in = southern=20 california.  leaves have lots of red areas between veins and are = stunted.=20 poor plant growth, no blooms. = why?
------=_NextPart_000_003A_01C20B0F.DDB77D00-- From rodmcq6@highstream.net Mon Jun 3 22:17:28 2002 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (rodmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 15:17:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pine trees, watering Message-ID: <004d01c20b4c$7384d3a0$e131db43@ibmbna6040> Brown needles on your pine trees can be caused by inadequate irrigation, also can be caused by pine blight, a condition that is weather related, usually a rapid change in temperatures will cause the blight. A drip irrigation system is the most economical in terms of water usage that can be used. Check out these sites for info on proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://www.amwua.org/xscp-wateringschedules.htm Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener From: Norman.Kur@pinnaclewest.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, June 03, 2002 8:54 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >How frequent should I be watering mature pine trees (they are about 20 feet tall)? And how much water should they be getting? I ask the question because the pine needles on the underside of the trees are brown and falling off. I would consider putting in an extension of my irrigation/sprinkler system, but it seems to me some sort of drip system would just be wasteful. Does anyone have any suggestions? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From watsontl@mindspring.com Tue Jun 4 01:36:03 2002 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 18:36:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <20020603185035.49120.qmail@web14904.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001a01c20b68$3192be00$7f0ab83f@oemcomputer> FYI: The reason overwatered plants often turn a bit yellow is the inability of roots that are short on oxygen to take up nitrogen. Roots that are 'gasping for breathing' in soggy soil don't function normally, and one of the processes that stop working is the uptake of nitrogen. So after you've adjusted the watering schedule, a shot of miracle grow, while it probably wouldn't hurt, may not be necessary. I'd wait to see if the tree greens up on its own, first. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "jack blake" To: Cc: Sent: Monday, June 03, 2002 11:50 AM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Presently the 3-2gph emitters is good. As the tree > grows, add more emitters and they all should be at the > edge of the canope of the tree.Established trees > should be watered every 10-14 days during the > summer.You should run the drip system for at least 7-9 > hrs. when you water.Your new tree should be watered > that long every 7-10 days.Trees can go into transplant > shock for over a yr sometimes.Usually,yellow leaces > are a sign of overwatering(watering to often)and > keeping the soil to wet.Remember, WATER DEEP but not > too often. > > > > --- PocoLocoASU@aol.com wrote: > > My 5 gallon lisbon lemon that I planted in mid-March > > in Chandler has yet to put out any new growth. The > > leaves are more yellow then they are green and there > > are a couple small branches that have dried up and > > died back about four inches. I have a thick layer > > of mulch in the tree basin and my drainiage is > > excellent. The tree was not planted too deeply and > > it gets full sun. I have 3 two gallon an hour > > emitters in the tree basin-how often does it need > > watering? I water all my other established trees > > once a week for 6 hours on drip. Is something wrong > > with my tree? Would a little miracle grow help out? > > Thx > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup > http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From watsontl@mindspring.com Tue Jun 4 01:49:13 2002 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 18:49:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200206030058.g530wLG11596@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <003101c20b6a$08687ea0$7f0ab83f@oemcomputer> I've had this problem with several kinds of plants that like to sprawl on the ground. There are so many different sorts of microbes in soil its a wonder ALL fruit that touch the ground don't rot. There are several ways to deal with it, the best one being to grow the vines up a trellis. To support large fruit such as cantaloupe or ice-box watermelons you would need to rig a sling of some kind to take the weight off the vine. I've used old nylon hose (courtesy of the 'gardener's assistant') and those mesh bags that bird seed bells come wrapped in. If a trellis is impractical, you can place a thick (2 to 3 inches) layer of straw mulch under the fruit to lift it off the soil, or set an old tile, a brick, or some other water resistant object under the fruit to keep it from touching the ground. The item that works best will be the one you can get hold of easily, and is large enough for the fruit in question. For zucchini and acorn squash I've been using old tiles, since water just runs off them; you don't want water pooling up around your watermelons. Bottom line: get them off the ground. Even an inch or two will do it. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, June 02, 2002 5:58 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > My young watermelon fruits are tuning black where they touch the bare ground.Any help with this would be appreciated. > Thanks for your time > JIM > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From watsontl@mindspring.com Tue Jun 4 01:53:41 2002 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 18:53:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200206030530.g535UMG04743@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <003601c20b6a$a8248600$7f0ab83f@oemcomputer> When we lived in Phoenix we had geraniums growing on the east side of the house, where they received direct sunlight for only a few hours in the middle of the morning. That seemed to be plenty for them; they grew well and flowered profusely. Here in Tucson I'm growing geraniums (cuttings from those very same plants) in pots, which has proven more of a challenge, since the soil in the pots heats up more rapidly than the ground would, putting a lot of stress on roots. To make it work I group the pots so that no direct sun hits them. As for soil, we spread a couple of inches of compost over the soil surface in Phoenix, twice a year, and gave them a bit of miracle grow once a month (more or less). They seemed to do fine without much more than that. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, June 02, 2002 10:30 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Geraniums - oversummering in Phx. recommendations please. currently in pots, should I transplant to ground? If so, what exposure, sun-hours, shade, soil-amendments? > Thank you, Ingrid > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From stevendrew@mindspring.com Tue Jun 4 05:59:20 2002 From: stevendrew@mindspring.com (Steven C. Drew) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 22:59:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] re: iron chelate Message-ID: <002b01c20b8c$f910ccf0$781f8144@global> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0028_01C20B52.4BBA7590 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Sherryl's question is: Subject: [Arid_gardener] chlorotic bottle brush Hi all, About a month ago I asked about adding iron to a deficient bottle brush I have (in its 2nd year, growing great, just some signs of iron deficiency.) I gave it a dose of chelated iron a month ago, but it didn't improve the new growth, which still is veiny. I just reapplied another dose about a week ago, this time a little more according to directions since it has grown substantially. How often could/should I treat this thing until I see improvement? Isn't there a danger of 'burning' a plant with too much iron? Also, the brand I picked up said "iron with chelate with directions to mix into the top layer of soil, which I can't do since there is a decomposed granite mulch around the shrub, so I just tried watering in the solution really well. Perhaps I need to pull back the stones instead? (seems like that would be a pain every time it needs iron). Sherryl, Most Arizona desert soil has plenty of naturally occuring iron already = in it but due to the structure and chemistry of our soils it is not = available for the plant to use, which is why chelated minerals such as = iron work. (Take a magnet outside and drag it around your soil and see = all the fine particles of iron that stick to it) Iron Chelate can only = work if the product gets in direct contact with as many feeder roots as = possible, so yes, you have to get it into the soil under all that = granite. Iron intake seems to be best when the soil has fairly dried out = between waterings, so you need to allow the root zone to get a little = drier than normal for the iron chelate to be absorbed. I have a Melaluca tree near my pool that was watered by spray heads that = was very chlorotic. I tried spraying miracle grow on it and just burned = the leaves with no benefit. So I applied iron chlelate last summer after = the soil temperature had warmed up while the tree was activily growing = and I also removed the spray heads allowing the soil to stay much drier = and now I have a very lush, healthy tree, with less water used. I = applied my first dose of iron cheIate about a month ago and may do it = again later this summer if I see any new veining. I have done similar = treatments with my weeping bottle brush tree and standard bottle brush = tree with good results too. Spoon feeding a little water soluable = nitrogen like urea every few weeks might help out too. Everything that = happens within a plant revolves around nitrogen and making sure there is = enough can sometimes make the difference in the plant being able to take = up more minerals. I think that using rebar, nails etc, would be fruitless as the iron = would just get bound up in the soil and be unusable, but It may not hurt = anything unless a root is damaged while pounding in the rebar. Adding some gypsum should help leach some sodium and free up some = minerals too. Good luck and I hope the Hummer's come to visit your bottle brush. Steve Drew, Master Gardener ------=_NextPart_000_0028_01C20B52.4BBA7590 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Sherryl's=20 question is:
 
Subject:=20 [Arid_gardener] chlorotic bottle brush

Hi all,
About a month = ago I=20 asked about adding iron to a deficient bottle brush
I have (in its = 2nd year,=20 growing great, just some signs of iron
deficiency.)

I gave it = a dose=20 of chelated iron a month ago, but it didn't improve the
new growth, = which=20 still is veiny. I just reapplied another dose about a
week ago, this = time a=20 little more according to directions since it has
grown=20 substantially.

How often could/should I treat this thing until I = see=20 improvement? Isn't
there a danger of 'burning' a plant with too much = iron?=20 Also, the brand
I picked up said "iron with chelate with directions = to mix=20 into the top
layer of soil, which I can't do since there is a = decomposed=20 granite
mulch around the shrub, so I just tried watering in the = solution=20 really
well. Perhaps I need to pull back the stones instead? (seems = like=20 that
would be a pain every time it needs = iron).
Sherryl,
 
Most  Arizona desert soil has = plenty of=20 naturally occuring iron already in it but due to the structure and = chemistry of=20 our soils it is not available for the plant to use, which is why = chelated=20 minerals such as iron work. (Take a magnet outside and drag it = around  your=20 soil and see all the fine particles of iron that stick to it) Iron = Chelate can=20 only work if the product gets in direct contact with as many feeder = roots as=20 possible, so yes, you have to get it into the soil under all that = granite. Iron=20 intake seems to be best when the soil has fairly dried out between = waterings, so=20 you need to allow the root zone to get a little drier than normal for = the iron=20 chelate to be absorbed.
 
I have a Melaluca tree near my pool = that was=20 watered by spray heads that was very chlorotic. I tried spraying miracle = grow on=20 it and just burned the leaves with no benefit. So I applied iron = chlelate last=20 summer after the soil temperature had warmed up while the tree was = activily=20 growing and I also removed the spray heads allowing the soil to stay = much drier=20 and now I have a very lush, healthy tree, with less water used. I = applied my=20 first dose of iron cheIate about a month ago and may do it again later = this=20 summer if I see any new veining. I have done similar = treatments with=20 my weeping bottle brush tree and standard bottle brush tree with good = results=20 too. Spoon feeding a little  water soluable nitrogen like urea = every=20 few weeks might help out too. Everything that happens within a plant = revolves=20 around nitrogen and making sure there is enough can sometimes make the=20 difference in the plant being able to take up more = minerals.
 
I think that using rebar, nails etc, = would be=20 fruitless as the iron would just get bound up in the soil and be = unusable, but=20 It may not hurt anything unless a root is damaged while pounding in the=20 rebar.
 
Adding some gypsum should help leach = some sodium=20 and free up some minerals too.
 
Good luck and I hope the Hummer's come = to visit=20 your bottle brush.
 
Steve Drew, Master=20 Gardener
------=_NextPart_000_0028_01C20B52.4BBA7590-- From stevendrew@mindspring.com Tue Jun 4 06:11:58 2002 From: stevendrew@mindspring.com (Steven C. Drew) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 23:11:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] re: double dike system Message-ID: <003601c20b8e$bd202fe0$781f8144@global> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0033_01C20B54.0F44CA00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable The question is: I am trying to find a drawing that shows one how to build a berme, = (donut-shaped mound) around a citrus tree to keep the water away from = the trunk. I was going to send that to a friend, but can't find it. = do you know where that is? Thanks. Nancy, Cooperative Extension Publication Q191 "Phyopthora Foot Rot Of = Cirtus-Control In the Home Garden" has a description and drawing of this. But the diagram is very simplistic, just two concentric circles (like a = donut) with a dot in the middle to indicate the tree. I make the first, inner dike about a foot or so away from the trunk, and = big enough to keep water out when I deep water with the bubbler system = or hose. The second dike is located just outside the tree's drip line, = where all the critical feeder roots would be or should be if the tree = has been getting watered wide enough. Hope this helps. But with this resembling a donut I can't resist sharing a little saying = I learned years ago... "Keep your eye upon the donut, and not upon the hole! Steve Drew, Master Gardener ------=_NextPart_000_0033_01C20B54.0F44CA00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
The question is:
 
I am trying to=20 find a drawing that shows one how to build a berme, (donut-shaped mound) = around=20 a citrus tree to keep the water away from the trunk.   I was = going to=20 send that to a friend, but can't find it.  do you know where that=20 is?   Thanks.

Nancy,
 
Cooperative Extension Publication Q191 = "Phyopthora=20 Foot Rot Of Cirtus-Control In the Home Garden"
has a description and drawing of = this.
 
But the diagram is very simplistic, = just two=20 concentric circles (like a donut) with a dot in the middle to indicate = the=20 tree.
 
I make the first, inner dike about = a foot or=20 so away from the trunk, and big enough to keep water out when I deep = water with=20 the bubbler system or hose. The second dike is located just outside the = tree's=20 drip line, where all the critical feeder roots would be or should be if = the tree=20 has been getting watered wide enough.
 
Hope this helps.
 
But with this resembling a donut I = can't resist=20 sharing a little saying I learned years ago...
 
"Keep your eye upon the donut, and not = upon the=20 hole!
 
Steve Drew, Master Gardener=20
------=_NextPart_000_0033_01C20B54.0F44CA00-- From pmnrbn@rc33.fsnet.co.uk Tue Jun 4 11:28:57 2002 From: pmnrbn@rc33.fsnet.co.uk (pmnrbn@rc33.fsnet.co.uk) Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 04:28:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206041128.g54BSvG09511@Ag.arizona.edu> How can I take a branch cutting from a conifer (leylandi)tree and transplant it to another part of the trunk ? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Jun 4 12:31:09 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 12:31:09 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Leyland cypress, cutting propagation Message-ID: reference: American Horticultural Society Plant Propagation, Alan Toogood Editor-In-Chief Leyland cypress: Take 6-inch semi-ripe wood cuttings from slightly shaded basal shoots; cuttings taken in mid to late summer; moderately difficult to propagate. May be able to slice cutting onto slightly thicker two-year old wood. I could find no reference to slicing branch cuttings into trunk -- doesn't sound likely that this would work. >From: pmnrbn@rc33.fsnet.co.uk >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 04:28:57 -0700 (MST) > >How can I take a branch cutting from a conifer (leylandi)tree and >transplant it to another part of the trunk ? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From umiller@azdps.com Tue Jun 4 12:46:25 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 05:46:25 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] re: iron chelate In-Reply-To: <002b01c20b8c$f910ccf0$781f8144@global> Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C20B8B.2A64BD40 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit I’ve found the same thing with my three bottle brushes. If the soil is dry, then the iron chelate seems to work better. I, however, don’t do anything about getting it into the soil because I have also have gravel around them. I just do as Sherryl tried – deep watering after applying the iron. It seems to work. I removed drippers from these plants a year ago to control the growth. The plants are generally happy even though they don’t get much watering at all. But once they start showing iron deficiency, I just apply the chelate and deep water. Over a few weeks things go back to normal. I only have to do this about three times a year. Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Steven C. Drew Sent: Monday, June 03, 2002 10:59 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] re: iron chelate Sherryl's question is: Subject: [Arid_gardener] chlorotic bottle brush Hi all, About a month ago I asked about adding iron to a deficient bottle brush I have (in its 2nd year, growing great, just some signs of iron deficiency.) I gave it a dose of chelated iron a month ago, but it didn't improve the new growth, which still is veiny. I just reapplied another dose about a week ago, this time a little more according to directions since it has grown substantially. How often could/should I treat this thing until I see improvement? Isn't there a danger of 'burning' a plant with too much iron? Also, the brand I picked up said "iron with chelate with directions to mix into the top layer of soil, which I can't do since there is a decomposed granite mulch around the shrub, so I just tried watering in the solution really well. Perhaps I need to pull back the stones instead? (seems like that would be a pain every time it needs iron). Sherryl, Most Arizona desert soil has plenty of naturally occuring iron already in it but due to the structure and chemistry of our soils it is not available for the plant to use, which is why chelated minerals such as iron work. (Take a magnet outside and drag it around your soil and see all the fine particles of iron that stick to it) Iron Chelate can only work if the product gets in direct contact with as many feeder roots as possible, so yes, you have to get it into the soil under all that granite. Iron intake seems to be best when the soil has fairly dried out between waterings, so you need to allow the root zone to get a little drier than normal for the iron chelate to be absorbed. I have a Melaluca tree near my pool that was watered by spray heads that was very chlorotic. I tried spraying miracle grow on it and just burned the leaves with no benefit. So I applied iron chlelate last summer after the soil temperature had warmed up while the tree was activily growing and I also removed the spray heads allowing the soil to stay much drier and now I have a very lush, healthy tree, with less water used. I applied my first dose of iron cheIate about a month ago and may do it again later this summer if I see any new veining. I have done similar treatments with my weeping bottle brush tree and standard bottle brush tree with good results too. Spoon feeding a little water soluable nitrogen like urea every few weeks might help out too. Everything that happens within a plant revolves around nitrogen and making sure there is enough can sometimes make the difference in the plant being able to take up more minerals. I think that using rebar, nails etc, would be fruitless as the iron would just get bound up in the soil and be unusable, but It may not hurt anything unless a root is damaged while pounding in the rebar. Adding some gypsum should help leach some sodium and free up some minerals too. Good luck and I hope the Hummer's come to visit your bottle brush. Steve Drew, Master Gardener ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C20B8B.2A64BD40 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I&= #8217;ve found the same thing with my three bottle brushes.  If the soil is dry, then the iron chelate seems to = work better.  I, however, = don’t do anything about getting it into the soil because I have also have gravel = around them.  I just do as = Sherryl tried – deep watering after applying the iron.  It seems to work.  = I removed drippers from these plants a year ago to control the growth.  The plants are generally happy = even though they don’t get much watering at all.  But once they start showing iron deficiency, I just = apply the chelate and deep water.  = Over a few weeks things go back to normal.  I only have to do this about three times a = year.

 

Ursula Miller

Not = a Master Gardener

<= span class=3DEmailStyle16> 

-----Original Message-----
From: = arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Steven C. Drew
Sent: Monday, June 03, = 2002 10:59 PM
To: = arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = re: iron chelate

 

Sherryl's question is:

 

Subject: [Arid_gardener] chlorotic bottle brush

Hi all,
About a month ago I asked about adding iron to a deficient bottle = brush
I have (in its 2nd year, growing great, just some signs of iron
deficiency.)

I gave it a dose of chelated iron a month ago, but it didn't improve = the
new growth, which still is veiny. I just reapplied another dose about = a
week ago, this time a little more according to directions since it = has
grown substantially.

How often could/should I treat this thing until I see improvement? = Isn't
there a danger of 'burning' a plant with too much iron? Also, the = brand
I picked up said "iron with chelate with directions to mix into the = top
layer of soil, which I can't do since there is a decomposed granite
mulch around the shrub, so I just tried watering in the solution = really
well. Perhaps I need to pull back the stones instead? (seems like = that
would be a pain every time it needs iron).

Sherryl,<= /font>

 

Most  = Arizona desert soil has plenty of naturally occuring iron already in it but due = to the structure and chemistry of our soils it is not available for the plant = to use, which is why chelated minerals such as iron work. (Take a magnet outside = and drag it around  your soil and see all the fine particles of iron = that stick to it) Iron Chelate can only work if the product gets in direct = contact with as many feeder roots as possible, so yes, you have to get it into = the soil under all that granite. Iron intake seems to be best when the soil has = fairly dried out between waterings, so you need to allow the root zone to get a = little drier than normal for the iron chelate to be = absorbed.

 

I have a Melaluca tree near my pool that was watered by spray heads that was = very chlorotic. I tried spraying miracle grow on it and just burned the = leaves with no benefit. So I applied iron chlelate last summer after the soil = temperature had warmed up while the tree was activily growing and I also = removed the spray heads allowing the soil to stay much drier and now I have a very = lush, healthy tree, with less water used. I applied my first dose of iron = cheIate about a month ago and may do it again later this summer if I see any new veining. I have done similar treatments with my weeping bottle = brush tree and standard bottle brush tree with good results too. Spoon feeding = a little  water soluable nitrogen like urea every few weeks might help out = too. Everything that happens within a plant revolves around nitrogen and = making sure there is enough can sometimes make the difference in the plant being = able to take up more minerals.

 

I think that using rebar, nails etc, would be fruitless as the iron would just = get bound up in the soil and be unusable, but It may not hurt anything = unless a root is damaged while pounding in the rebar.

 

Adding some gypsum should help leach some sodium and free up some minerals = too.

 

Good luck and I hope the Hummer's come to visit your bottle = brush.

 

Steve Drew, Master Gardener

------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C20B8B.2A64BD40-- From dennislynda@aol.com Tue Jun 4 17:17:05 2002 From: dennislynda@aol.com (dennislynda@aol.com) Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 10:17:05 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206041717.g54HH5G29048@Ag.arizona.edu> My tomatoes all have a brown spot that eventually grows as the tomato ripens. What is this and is there anything I can do about it? From watsontl@mindspring.com Tue Jun 4 18:39:08 2002 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 11:39:08 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200206041717.g54HH5G29048@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000e01c20bf7$1de26880$3955b83f@oemcomputer> Where on the fruit is the spot, and is the location pretty much the same on any of the affected fruit? Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 10:17 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > My tomatoes all have a brown spot that eventually grows as the tomato ripens. What is this and is there anything I can do about it? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From dedangelo@hotmail.com Tue Jun 4 21:25:28 2002 From: dedangelo@hotmail.com (dedangelo@hotmail.com) Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 14:25:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206042125.g54LPRG24131@Ag.arizona.edu> my garden has a bare dirt base. obviously i need to augment the soil; my question is: with what? Also can I use straw to hold in the moisture? thanks, diane From BILANA@concentric.net Tue Jun 4 22:22:27 2002 From: BILANA@concentric.net (BILANA@concentric.net) Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 15:22:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206042222.g54MMRG06858@Ag.arizona.edu> Which is more culturally and economically viable for a 20 x 20 foot flower garden- using my soil or a raised garden. 1. I am in a Perryvile- Rillito complex, PRB, 0-3% slopes. low in organic matter, soil contains quantities of lime, Class VII soil. 2. If I use this soil I will need to amend it with manure and peat moss, apply phosphorus 4 times a year and iron to compensate for the lime. 3. If i go with a raised bed, what do I have to buy to constitute the mixture? I would appreciate any advice that you could give me. Tel. No. 623-386-7787 or E-mail. From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue Jun 4 23:13:03 2002 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (Olin) Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 16:13:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Blossom End Rot ? References: <200206041717.g54HH5G29048@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <002501c20c1d$63444a80$5252530c@j0r9501> If the brown spot is on the bottom of the fruit, it is probably due to Blossom End Rot which is thought to be due to the inability of the plant to utilize calcium - usually due to irregular watering and not necessarily due to a lack of calcium in the soil. Manage the problem by applying gypsum (calcium sulfate) to the soil, improve water management through regular deep watering, use a mulch to reduce evaporation, and space tomatoes adequately to avoid water stress See also: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/cultural/blsm-rot.htm ----- Original Message ----- From: > My tomatoes all have a brown spot that eventually grows as the tomato ripens. What is this and is there anything I can do about it? From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue Jun 4 23:28:03 2002 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (Olin) Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 16:28:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Improving Soil References: <200206042125.g54LPRG24131@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <002c01c20c1f$7e0a02e0$5252530c@j0r9501> First loosen the soil by tilling or spading, then work in about 4 inches of composted organic matter and apply agricultural gypsum (follow label directions) or soil sulfur. Sulfur lasts longer but gypsum works faster. Then wet the soil thoroughly and allow it to dry for a few weeks and, if you have enough time, rototill or spade and wet the soil again and let it dry out again before planting. You could work in straw if you wait for it to decompose before planting but it works better to use composted material as an amendment and straw as a mulch. See also the Master Garden Manual at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/soils/improving.html#improving Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: To: From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Jun 4 23:24:55 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 23:24:55 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] soil preparation Message-ID: Hello, Diane It depends on what you want to grow. First test your soil drainage by digging a hole and filling it with water. If water is still standing in the hole the next day you have poor drainage (perhaps a layer of caliche) and you will need to punch a chimney through this impermeable layer to get good drainage. Native trees and shrubs can grow in this native soil with little or no augmentation as long as you supply appropriate water. Dig a hole only as deep as the root ball in the container and 4 to 5 times as wide. Remove the plant from the container and place it on firm soil; fill in with the backfill (removing any larger rocks). Water daily when you first plant, especially making sure the root ball is moist. Gradually lengthen the time between waterings. If, however, you want to grow non-native flowers, vegetables, and shrubs you will need to add at least 50% organic matter and supplement with a fertilizer such as ammonium phosphate. The organic matter can be composted manures, compost, your own kitchen compost, etc. Often, we plant in raised bed as a way to more easily control the environment. Mulching with an organic material such as straw or compost is a good idea to moderate soil moisture and soil temperature. I hope I've answered some of your questions. If you need more information, please send another email to the arid-gardener list. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: dedangelo@hotmail.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 14:25:28 -0700 (MST) > >my garden has a bare dirt base. obviously i need to augment the soil; my >question is: with what? Also can I use straw to hold in the moisture? >thanks, >diane > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Jun 4 23:36:00 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 23:36:00 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] raised beds or soil amendments Message-ID: I can't address the bottom line on which is more economically viable. My own experience has been that a raised bed is easier to manage and more productive. With a raised bed, it is easier to exclude rabbits, pocket gophers and other desert creatures in search of water and food. If you keep the beds at 3 to 4 feet deep, it is easier to plant and tend. If you do go with the eaised beds, you will want to add at least 50% organic matter of some kind to the beds, fertilize with ammonium phosphate or appropriate fertlizer for the flowers you are growing. Some material supply and garden stores sell garden mix in bulk. Check for one that is high in organic matter and the texture you desire. Often you can find free sources of cow manure, horse manure, goat manure, etc. but you may need space to compost these if they are fresh when you get them. Many coffee houses will let you have coffee grounds for free if you are willing to collect them on a regular basis. you can keep your own compost pile, too, with kitchen scraps. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: BILANA@concentric.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 15:22:27 -0700 (MST) > >Which is more culturally and economically viable for a 20 x 20 foot flower >garden- using my soil or a raised garden. >1. I am in a Perryvile- Rillito complex, PRB, >0-3% slopes. low in organic matter, soil contains quantities of lime, Class >VII soil. >2. If I use this soil I will need to amend it with manure and peat moss, >apply phosphorus 4 times a year and iron to compensate for the lime. >3. If i go with a raised bed, what do I have to buy to constitute the >mixture? >I would appreciate any advice that you could give me. >Tel. No. 623-386-7787 or E-mail. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From Linda.Trujillo@motorola.com Tue Jun 4 23:46:27 2002 From: Linda.Trujillo@motorola.com (Trujillo Linda-R37824) Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 16:46:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] RE:Alabama Bulbs Message-ID: <3F05200B37A1D511BE550002B3289243016B5DAE@az43exm04.phx.mcd.mot.com> Linda, Since I am located in Arizona, you may want to contact your local Cooperative Extension office for information specific to your part of the country. Here is a link to that information. http://www.aces.edu/ Good Luck! Linda Trujillo Master Gardener Maricopa County -----Original Message----- From: Lindabill32@cs.com [mailto:Lindabill32@cs.com] Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002 8:06 PM To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Hello to another Linda! I live in Huntsville, (north) Alabama. Last summer I transplanted bulbs from a friend. The lillies healthily grew to about 8' and produced gorgeous red flowers. This year the plants have reached about 3', and started looking as if they're dying (dry, white, burned?). Thanks for any help you can give me. Linda D. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Wed Jun 5 00:24:15 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 17:24:15 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Did you know??, This one may smell. Message-ID: <20020605002415.10306.qmail@web14904.mail.yahoo.com> Did you know--- that the animal with the most acute sense of smell is the silk worm,Bombyx mori? it can detect the odor of a female moth more than 2 miles away. ^^^ dogs can smell about 1 million times better than humans. ^^^ ants smell through their antennae and their sense of smellis comparable to a dogs. ^^^ that the active ingredient in sskunk odor is etharethiol and it takes only 0.000000000000071 of an ounceof skunk essence for us to smell it. ^^^ spiders smell through "noses" on their first pair of front legs, so do monarch butterflies, houseflies,bees,and whip scorpions. ^^^ the scent of the beaver is highly prized for making perfume. ^^^ snakes smell with their tongue. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com From lbradley@sisna.com Tue Jun 4 23:24:36 2002 From: lbradley@sisna.com (Lucy Bradley) Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 16:24:36 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Water Conservation - Stage 4 (out of 5) Order in Pine, AZ Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020604162206.01cf1a78@ag.arizona.edu> Watershed Information No. 121 May 31, 2002 Daniel Salzler azwatershed@aol.com >4. Pine steps Up Water Conservation As the drought draws on, it's not just >fire that Rim country residents are worried about. It's the lack of moisture, >as well. Brooke Utilities' customers in Pine have been placed on an official >conservation level Stage 4. Brooke Utilities is the private water company >that serves many of the outlying communities in Rim country including Pine, >Strawberry, Mesa del Caballo, Whispering Pines, East Verde and Geronimo >Estates. > >The ACC has reissued the order for a water meter moratorium in Pine, limiting >new water meter installations to one per month, based on this statewide >drought. In addition Brooke Utilities has voluntarily shut down the pipeline, >dubbed Project Magnolia, which connects the two water systems of Pine and >Strawberry, Murphy said. "(A total of) 855,000 gallons of water has been >supplied by Strawberry through Project Magnolia since the first of the year." > >Typically Pine and Strawberry experience an increased population of people >looking to escape the heat every weekend. > >Water conservation stages > * Stage 1 No water conservation measures are in effect. > * Stage 2 Voluntary customer water conservation measures should be >employed to reduce daily consumption by approximately ten >percent (10%). Outside watering on weekends and holidays should be >curtailed. Outside vegetation watering may occur during weekday periods on >even days of the month for even numbered lots and odd numbered days >of the month for odd numbered lots. > * Stage 3 Voluntary water conservation measures should be employed to >reduce daily consumption by approximately twenty-five percent >(25%). Outside watering should be completely curtailed except for >permitted livestock. Indoor water conservation techniques should be employed >wherever possible. Restaurant patrons should be served water only >upon request. > * Stage 4 Voluntary water conservation measures should be employed to >reduce daily consumption by approximately forty percent (40%). Outside >watering should be completely curtailed and livestock should be watered only >when necessary. Mandatory indoor water conservation techniques should be >employed throughout customer residences. Restaurant patrons should >be served water only upon request. > * Stage 5 Mandatory water conservation restrictions are currently in >effect pursuant to regulatory enforcement proceedings. S