From jondels@attglobal.net Sat Jun 1 05:13:42 2002 From: jondels@attglobal.net (J. Delson) Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 22:13:42 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lime tree doing poorly Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020531215759.00b40200@pop1.attglobal.net> My Mexican lime tree which was planted from a 24" box about 14 months ago is doing poorly this year. It is on the north side of the house. The soil is clay-like. Although it flowered well, almost all the blossoms dropped off with only a few limes now growing. If I water it (usually 30 minutes) at weekly intervals many of the leaves turn completely yellow and drop off. They also curl. If I water it any more often, the leaves look sickly and have green veins with large areas of yellow surrounding, which I always thought was a sign of over-watering. I use ironite on the soil occasionally which doesn't seem to help. About 10 feet away there is an orange tree about 10 years old which does great with watering every few weeks. What can I do to bring this tree around? I appreciate any feedback. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Jun 1 13:07:41 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2002 13:07:41 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] pruning desert shrubs Message-ID: Prune cassias lightly and keep natural shape. (Do you know which particular cassia you have?) Mexican bird - (this is the one with very green leaves and yellow flowers) is usually pruned in late spring to remove any long lanky branches. It is a little late, but if the plant is healthy and vigorously growing probably O.K. to prune now. Red bird (red & yellow flowers) is pruned in midsummer (now) to control exuberant growth. Major pruning is done in late winter. Desert bird (yellow flowers with red stamens, sparse growth) is also pruned in winter. Roses are usually pruned lightly in October and often more heavily pruned in January. Roses are not pruned back as far in the desert as they are in the north. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Sindi Stack" >To: "Linda Drew" >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Cassia, brown seed pods >Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 18:25:36 -0700 > >My cassias do not bloom in the summer only during winter. They have >finished blooming so is it OK to prune them now and how far back can they >be >pruned. Can they be pruned back as far as my roses and Mexican bird? >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Linda Drew" >To: ; >Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002 9:07 PM >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Cassia, brown seed pods > > > > > > Remove brown seed pods with a light natural pruning > > (similar to deadheading roses) > > or just knock off the pods after seeds have set to improve > > appearance. > > > > Cassias are usually pruned after summer flowering or while > > deciduous in winter. Prune naturally to keep plant form. > > Do not shear into globes or squares. > > > > For more information, check the book "Pruning, Planting & Care" > > by Eric A. Johnson. > > > > Linda Drew > > Master Gardener > > > > >From: AZDesertGal@att.net > > >To: > > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > >Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 20:17:44 -0700 (MST) > > > > > >I have a couple of large (5X5) cassia shrubs. They look good in the >cooler > > >weather but now the flowers have gone and the bush has brown pod like > > >things hanging all over it. Is it possible to prune this plant and if >so > > >how? > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > > >Arid_gardener mailing list > > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com > > _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From tommie1@cox.net Sat Jun 1 15:00:00 2002 From: tommie1@cox.net (tommie1@cox.net) Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 08:00:00 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206011500.g51F00G22808@Ag.arizona.edu> Three years ago I planted midiron sod. Up to now it was doing fine. This spring it started showing brown spots..some have now grown to three feet. I was watering at night but now I water twice a week in the morning . Any idea what happened? Thx. Tom Nolta From ldcolgan@earthlink.net Sat Jun 1 17:08:42 2002 From: ldcolgan@earthlink.net (ldcolgan@earthlink.net) Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 10:08:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206011708.g51H8gG03518@Ag.arizona.edu> Can you tell me why my cucumbers are bitter tasting? The plant looks healthy the cucumbers look delicious and crisp, but they taste bitter. From watsontl@mindspring.com Sat Jun 1 17:25:24 2002 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 10:25:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200206011708.g51H8gG03518@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000e01c20991$521c75e0$4409b83f@oemcomputer> The bitter taste is a chemical the plants usually produce in response to stress, usually the stress of some sort of insect pest attacking the plants. I've gotten bitter cucumbers this way twice: first the problem was cucumber beetles, with are like little green lady bugs, and have either stripes or spots. The second time the plants were attacked by squash vine borers. I'm told this is actually the more common problem of the two. If the vines have a tendency to wilt badly between waterings, check the first few inches of stem (from the ground up) and see if you find a swelling, or a mass of what might be described as wet sawdust oozing from the stem. You can slit the stem and remove the grub inside (actually the larva of a moth), the bind the wound up with a strip of old nylon stocking. (Wraping the first 4 or 5 inches of stem to begin with, by the way, can prevent the pest.) Survival of the plant is not assured, should you need to remove a grub, but it works often enough to beat just giving up. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, June 01, 2002 10:08 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Can you tell me why my cucumbers are bitter tasting? The plant looks healthy the cucumbers look delicious and > crisp, but they taste bitter. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Jun 1 18:26:33 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2002 18:26:33 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] lawn, brown spots Message-ID: I would suggest you collect a sample at the edge of the brown spot (some healthy grass, some sick and some dead), dig down about 12 inches and put the sample in a sealed plastic bag and refrigerate. Take the sample to your local Cooperative Extension Office for positive ID. Most lawn problems are watering problems -- too much, too little, compacted soil, sprinkler missing a spot, thatch builup, etc. But the problem might be a fungal disease like spring dead spot. If it is spring dead spot, maintaining a healthy turf will speed recovery. Aerating and verticutting can spread the fungus. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: tommie1@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 08:00:00 -0700 (MST) > >Three years ago I planted midiron sod. Up to now it was doing fine. This >spring it started showing brown spots..some have now grown to three feet. I >was watering at night but now I water twice a week in the morning . Any >idea what happened? > >Thx. Tom Nolta > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From rodmcq6@highstream.net Sat Jun 1 20:18:41 2002 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (rodmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 13:18:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lime tree doing poorly Message-ID: <002201c209a9$def4bfa0$5f31db43@ibmbna6040> Citrus trees typically do not bear fruit until they have been in the ground for 4 to 5 years, until that time the tree automatically drops most of its fruit. The green veins on yellow leaves on your lime tree is called chlorosis which is usually caused by over watering. You need to correct your watering practice. The application of chelated iron will usually help to correct the problem. Ironite will eventually help but it takes a long time, sometimes over one year. Check out these sites for info on proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: J. Delson To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Friday, May 31, 2002 10:14 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lime tree doing poorly >My Mexican lime tree which was planted from a 24" box about 14 months ago >is doing poorly this year. It is on the north side of the house. The soil >is clay-like. Although it flowered well, almost all the blossoms dropped >off with only a few limes now growing. If I water it (usually 30 minutes) >at weekly intervals many of the leaves turn completely yellow and drop >off. They also curl. If I water it any more often, the leaves look >sickly and have green veins with large areas of yellow surrounding, which >I always thought was a sign of over-watering. I use ironite on the soil >occasionally which doesn't seem to help. About 10 feet away there is an >orange tree about 10 years old which does great with watering every few >weeks. What can I do to bring this tree around? I appreciate any feedback. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From PGil875599@aol.com Sat Jun 1 23:31:19 2002 From: PGil875599@aol.com (PGil875599@aol.com) Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 16:31:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206012331.g51NVJG08636@Ag.arizona.edu> Why do my cucumbers get bitter? Why do all my pomegranetes split? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Jun 1 23:58:23 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2002 23:58:23 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] cucumbers bitter, pomegranates split Message-ID: >From: PGil875599@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 16:31:19 -0700 (MST) > >Why do my cucumbers get bitter? Here is an excellent answer from Tom Watson to the same question: The bitter taste is a chemical the plants usually produce in response to stress, usually the stress of some sort of insect pest attacking the plants. I've gotten bitter cucumbers this way twice: first the problem was cucumber beetles, with are like little green lady bugs, and have either stripes or spots. The second time the plants were attacked by squash vine borers. I'm told this is actually the more common problem of the two. If the vines have a tendency to wilt badly between waterings, check the first few inches of stem (from the ground up) and see if you find a swelling, or a mass of what might be described as wet sawdust oozing from the stem. You can slit the stem and remove the grub inside (actually the larva of a moth), the bind the wound up with a strip of old nylon stocking. (Wraping the first 4 or 5 inches of stem to begin with, by the way, can prevent the pest.) Survival of the plant is not assured, should you need to remove a grub, but it works often enough to beat just giving up. Tom > >Why do all my pomegranetes split? Pomegranates often split with too much water, a sudden increase of water after fruits have started to form, or uneven watering. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From erjeter@qwest.net Mon Jun 3 00:30:51 2002 From: erjeter@qwest.net (erjeter@qwest.net) Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 17:30:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206030030.g530UpG09786@Ag.arizona.edu> I have two long small-leaf myrtle hedges bordering my front yard. The hedges are approximately 3 feet tall and 3 feet wide. My question is when and how often should I prune these hedges? I pruned them for the first time this spring two weeks ago. Thanks. From bluesjam@hotmail.com Mon Jun 3 00:58:21 2002 From: bluesjam@hotmail.com (bluesjam@hotmail.com) Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 17:58:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206030058.g530wLG11596@Ag.arizona.edu> My young watermelon fruits are tuning black where they touch the bare ground.Any help with this would be appreciated. Thanks for your time JIM From allankane@cox.net Mon Jun 3 02:22:50 2002 From: allankane@cox.net (Allan Kane) Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 19:22:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: <000801c20aa5$8f5b4480$6501a8c0@oc.cox.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C20A6A.E27F4D40 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable barbara karst bouganvillia in southern california. leaves have lots of = red areas between veins and are stunted. poor plant growth, no blooms. = why? ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C20A6A.E27F4D40 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
barbara karst bouganvillia in southern=20 california.  leaves have lots of red areas between veins and are = stunted.=20 poor plant growth, no blooms. why?
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C20A6A.E27F4D40-- From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Mon Jun 3 02:56:19 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 19:56:19 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question watering trees In-Reply-To: <200205301824.g4UIOXG03648@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20020603025619.43787.qmail@web14909.mail.yahoo.com> Your drippers should be at the canope edge and you should have at least 5-8 around the trees edge. Run the water every 14 days for at least 7-9 hours.That takes care of the mature trees. For the new ones, water them on the between weeks by hand or put in another system for them till they mature. --- clogrady@msn.com wrote: > I have recently added a drip system to water my > trees. Some of the trees were just planted but we > also have several well established Palo Verdes that > we added to the drip line. The new trees require > water twice a week will this much water hurt my > older trees? Thanks for the info. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com From ingtro1@juno.com Mon Jun 3 05:30:22 2002 From: ingtro1@juno.com (ingtro1@juno.com) Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 22:30:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206030530.g535UMG04743@Ag.arizona.edu> Geraniums - oversummering in Phx. recommendations please. currently in pots, should I transplant to ground? If so, what exposure, sun-hours, shade, soil-amendments? Thank you, Ingrid From PocoLocoASU@aol.com Mon Jun 3 07:46:21 2002 From: PocoLocoASU@aol.com (PocoLocoASU@aol.com) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 00:46:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206030746.g537kLG17592@Ag.arizona.edu> My 5 gallon lisbon lemon that I planted in mid-March in Chandler has yet to put out any new growth. The leaves are more yellow then they are green and there are a couple small branches that have dried up and died back about four inches. I have a thick layer of mulch in the tree basin and my drainiage is excellent. The tree was not planted too deeply and it gets full sun. I have 3 two gallon an hour emitters in the tree basin-how often does it need watering? I water all my other established trees once a week for 6 hours on drip. Is something wrong with my tree? Would a little miracle grow help out? Thx From Norman.Kur@pinnaclewest.com Mon Jun 3 15:52:01 2002 From: Norman.Kur@pinnaclewest.com (Norman.Kur@pinnaclewest.com) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 08:52:01 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206031552.g53Fq1G10615@Ag.arizona.edu> How frequent should I be watering mature pine trees (they are about 20 feet tall)? And how much water should they be getting? I ask the question because the pine needles on the underside of the trees are brown and falling off. I would consider putting in an extension of my irrigation/sprinkler system, but it seems to me some sort of drip system would just be wasteful. Does anyone have any suggestions? From michele5000@crayonmail.com Mon Jun 3 16:56:27 2002 From: michele5000@crayonmail.com (Michele Robertson) Date: 3 Jun 2002 16:56:27 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Arid_gardener digest, Vol 1 #359 - 15 msgs Message-ID: <20020603165627.19020.qmail@whiskas.chek.com> Miss Shelli From Joshua Tree California :) I noticed I did some late summer pruning on my Mesquite Tree this last season. It weeped " Black Juice" all over the sidewalks for months. What is the best time to prune a Mesquite Tree? Thankyou in advance. Michele Robertson. On Sun, 2 Jun 2002 18:01:46 -0700 (MST) arid_gardener-request@Ag.arizona.edu wrote: Send Arid_gardener mailing list submissions to arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to arid_gardener-request@Ag.Arizona.Edu You can reach the person managing the list at arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Arid_gardener digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (AZDesertGal@att.net) 2. Re: Cassia, brown seed pods (Linda Drew) 3. re: zucchini and spinach (Steven C. Drew) 4. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (jengay@cox.net) 5. Lime tree doing poorly (J. Delson) 6. Re: pruning desert shrubs (Linda Drew) 7. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (tommie1@cox.net) 8. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (ldcolgan@earthlink.net) 9. Re: Question from Home-Hort WWW page (Tom & Linda Watson) 10. Re: lawn, brown spots (Linda Drew) 11. Lime tree doing poorly (rodmcq6@highstream.net) 12. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (PGil875599@aol.com) 13. Re: cucumbers bitter, pomegranates split (Linda Drew) 14. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (erjeter@qwest.net) 15. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (bluesjam@hotmail.com) --__--__-- Message: 1 Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 20:17:44 -0700 (MST) To: From: AZDesertGal@att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a couple of large (5X5) cassia shrubs. They look good in the cooler weather but now the flowers have gone and the bush has brown pod like things hanging all over it. Is it possible to prune this plant and if so how? --__--__-- Message: 2 From: "Linda Drew" To: AZDesertGal@att.net, arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Cassia, brown seed pods Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 04:07:46 +0000 Remove brown seed pods with a light natural pruning (similar to deadheading roses) or just knock off the pods after seeds have set to improve appearance. Cassias are usually pruned after summer flowering or while deciduous in winter. Prune naturally to keep plant form. Do not shear into globes or squares. For more information, check the book "Pruning, Planting & Care" by Eric A. Johnson. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: AZDesertGal@att.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 20:17:44 -0700 (MST) > >I have a couple of large (5X5) cassia shrubs. They look good in the cooler >weather but now the flowers have gone and the bush has brown pod like >things hanging all over it. Is it possible to prune this plant and if so >how? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com --__--__-- Message: 3 From: "Steven C. Drew" To: Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 21:27:30 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] re: zucchini and spinach This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C20820.CDCDD6B0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable My zucchini's have been producing profusely for about three weeks now, = one of the latest going about 5 pounds. Lots of sun is a good thing. = Lots of water, never allowing the plant to totally wilt is good too. A = good "rule of thumb" is that vegetables and annuals should never lack = for food or water and have really good soil. Many problems with = vegetables seem to come from too much or too little of food or water. It = is almost impossible to play "catch up" with vegetables. The season is = just too short. But you can start a second crop later on in August or = so, that may produce unitl first frost. There is no substitute for good = soil preparation including adding organic matter, gypsum, and possibly = soil sulpher and some pre-plant fertilizer that is heavy in Phosphorous, = worked well into the soil. Selecting varieties that are known to be = successful in our area is a good thing too. Plants sown from seed = often-times seem to out perform transplants as well.=20 Spinach is better grown during the winter months, as are most leafy = vegetables. Don't give up-keep trying-true gardening beats yard work any day! Steve Drew, Master Gardener, CID, CGIA This was the question: I have zucchini plants which had blossoms about 4 weeks ago but don't = see any veggies yet. How long does this process take? Should these = plants be in the direct sun all day? I have them planted under a shade = screened area as I don't believe this AZ sun is good for most plants. Also spinach. It is growing in the same location as my zucchini. I = have never seen spinach which looks like mine. Usually the leaves are = large and wrinkled but mine has small smooth pointed leaves. The = largest of the leaves is about the size of my palm. Most are small about = the size of my thumb or smaller. What do I need to do with this? -- __--__-- ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C20820.CDCDD6B0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
My zucchini's have been producing = profusely for=20 about three weeks now, one of the latest going about 5 pounds. Lots of = sun is a=20 good thing. Lots of water, never allowing the plant to totally wilt is = good too.=20 A good "rule of thumb" is that vegetables and annuals should never lack = for food=20 or water and have really good soil. Many problems with vegetables seem = to come=20 from too much or too little of food or water. It is almost impossible to = play=20 "catch up" with vegetables. The season is just too short. But you can = start a=20 second crop later on in August or so,  that may produce unitl first = frost.=20 There is no substitute for good soil preparation including adding = organic=20 matter, gypsum, and possibly soil sulpher and some pre-plant fertilizer = that is=20 heavy in Phosphorous, worked well into the soil. Selecting varieties = that are=20 known to be successful in our area is a good thing too. Plants sown from = seed=20 often-times seem to out perform transplants as well.
 
Spinach is better grown during the winter months, as are most leafy = vegetables.
 
Don't give up-keep trying-true = gardening beats yard=20 work any day!
 
Steve Drew, Master Gardener, CID,=20 CGIA
 
This was the question:
 
I have zucchini=20 plants which had blossoms about 4 weeks ago but don't see any veggies = yet. =20 How long does this process take?  Should these plants be in the = direct sun=20 all day?  I have them planted under a shade screened area as I = don't=20 believe this AZ sun is good for most plants.
Also spinach.  It = is=20 growing in the same location as my zucchini.  I have never seen = spinach=20 which looks like mine.  Usually the leaves are large and wrinkled = but mine=20 has small smooth pointed leaves.  The largest of the leaves is = about the=20 size of my palm. Most are small about the size of my thumb or smaller. = What do I=20 need to do with=20 this?


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------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C20820.CDCDD6B0-- --__--__-- Message: 4 Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 22:17:10 -0700 (MST) To: From: jengay@cox.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have been searching for the name of the tree that I have seen in some cityscape use. The tree has a beautiful and distinctive smooth shimmering copper trunk. I think it is a Swamp Mallet (Eucalyptus spathulata). Would this tree be good near a pool? --__--__-- Message: 5 Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 22:13:42 -0700 To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu From: "J. Delson" Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lime tree doing poorly My Mexican lime tree which was planted from a 24" box about 14 months ago is doing poorly this year. It is on the north side of the house. The soil is clay-like. Although it flowered well, almost all the blossoms dropped off with only a few limes now growing. If I water it (usually 30 minutes) at weekly intervals many of the leaves turn completely yellow and drop off. They also curl. If I water it any more often, the leaves look sickly and have green veins with large areas of yellow surrounding, which I always thought was a sign of over-watering. I use ironite on the soil occasionally which doesn't seem to help. About 10 feet away there is an orange tree about 10 years old which does great with watering every few weeks. What can I do to bring this tree around? I appreciate any feedback. --__--__-- Message: 6 From: "Linda Drew" To: AZDesertGal@worldnet.att.net, arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] pruning desert shrubs Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2002 13:07:41 +0000 Prune cassias lightly and keep natural shape. (Do you know which particular cassia you have?) Mexican bird - (this is the one with very green leaves and yellow flowers) is usually pruned in late spring to remove any long lanky branches. It is a little late, but if the plant is healthy and vigorously growing probably O.K. to prune now. Red bird (red & yellow flowers) is pruned in midsummer (now) to control exuberant growth. Major pruning is done in late winter. Desert bird (yellow flowers with red stamens, sparse growth) is also pruned in winter. Roses are usually pruned lightly in October and often more heavily pruned in January. Roses are not pruned back as far in the desert as they are in the north. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Sindi Stack" >To: "Linda Drew" >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Cassia, brown seed pods >Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 18:25:36 -0700 > >My cassias do not bloom in the summer only during winter. They have >finished blooming so is it OK to prune them now and how far back can they >be >pruned. Can they be pruned back as far as my roses and Mexican bird? >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Linda Drew" >To: ; >Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002 9:07 PM >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Cassia, brown seed pods > > > > > > Remove brown seed pods with a light natural pruning > > (similar to deadheading roses) > > or just knock off the pods after seeds have set to improve > > appearance. > > > > Cassias are usually pruned after summer flowering or while > > deciduous in winter. Prune naturally to keep plant form. > > Do not shear into globes or squares. > > > > For more information, check the book "Pruning, Planting & Care" > > by Eric A. Johnson. > > > > Linda Drew > > Master Gardener > > > > >From: AZDesertGal@att.net > > >To: > > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > >Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 20:17:44 -0700 (MST) > > > > > >I have a couple of large (5X5) cassia shrubs. They look good in the >cooler > > >weather but now the flowers have gone and the bush has brown pod like > > >things hanging all over it. Is it possible to prune this plant and if >so > > >how? > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > > >Arid_gardener mailing list > > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com > > _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com --__--__-- Message: 7 Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 08:00:00 -0700 (MST) To: From: tommie1@cox.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Three years ago I planted midiron sod. Up to now it was doing fine. This spring it started showing brown spots..some have now grown to three feet. I was watering at night but now I water twice a week in the morning . Any idea what happened? Thx. Tom Nolta --__--__-- Message: 8 Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 10:08:42 -0700 (MST) To: From: ldcolgan@earthlink.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Can you tell me why my cucumbers are bitter tasting? The plant looks healthy the cucumbers look delicious and crisp, but they taste bitter. --__--__-- Message: 9 From: "Tom & Linda Watson" To: , Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 10:25:24 -0700 The bitter taste is a chemical the plants usually produce in response to stress, usually the stress of some sort of insect pest attacking the plants. I've gotten bitter cucumbers this way twice: first the problem was cucumber beetles, with are like little green lady bugs, and have either stripes or spots. The second time the plants were attacked by squash vine borers. I'm told this is actually the more common problem of the two. If the vines have a tendency to wilt badly between waterings, check the first few inches of stem (from the ground up) and see if you find a swelling, or a mass of what might be described as wet sawdust oozing from the stem. You can slit the stem and remove the grub inside (actually the larva of a moth), the bind the wound up with a strip of old nylon stocking. (Wraping the first 4 or 5 inches of stem to begin with, by the way, can prevent the pest.) Survival of the plant is not assured, should you need to remove a grub, but it works often enough to beat just giving up. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, June 01, 2002 10:08 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Can you tell me why my cucumbers are bitter tasting? The plant looks healthy the cucumbers look delicious and > crisp, but they taste bitter. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > --__--__-- Message: 10 From: "Linda Drew" To: tommie1@cox.net, arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] lawn, brown spots Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2002 18:26:33 +0000 I would suggest you collect a sample at the edge of the brown spot (some healthy grass, some sick and some dead), dig down about 12 inches and put the sample in a sealed plastic bag and refrigerate. Take the sample to your local Cooperative Extension Office for positive ID. Most lawn problems are watering problems -- too much, too little, compacted soil, sprinkler missing a spot, thatch builup, etc. But the problem might be a fungal disease like spring dead spot. If it is spring dead spot, maintaining a healthy turf will speed recovery. Aerating and verticutting can spread the fungus. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: tommie1@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 08:00:00 -0700 (MST) > >Three years ago I planted midiron sod. Up to now it was doing fine. This >spring it started showing brown spots..some have now grown to three feet. I >was watering at night but now I water twice a week in the morning . Any >idea what happened? > >Thx. Tom Nolta > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com --__--__-- Message: 11 Reply-To: From: To: "J. Delson" Cc: Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 13:18:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lime tree doing poorly Citrus trees typically do not bear fruit until they have been in the ground for 4 to 5 years, until that time the tree automatically drops most of its fruit. The green veins on yellow leaves on your lime tree is called chlorosis which is usually caused by over watering. You need to correct your watering practice. The application of chelated iron will usually help to correct the problem. Ironite will eventually help but it takes a long time, sometimes over one year. Check out these sites for info on proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: J. Delson To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Friday, May 31, 2002 10:14 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lime tree doing poorly >My Mexican lime tree which was planted from a 24" box about 14 months ago >is doing poorly this year. It is on the north side of the house. The soil >is clay-like. Although it flowered well, almost all the blossoms dropped >off with only a few limes now growing. If I water it (usually 30 minutes) >at weekly intervals many of the leaves turn completely yellow and drop >off. They also curl. If I water it any more often, the leaves look >sickly and have green veins with large areas of yellow surrounding, which >I always thought was a sign of over-watering. I use ironite on the soil >occasionally which doesn't seem to help. About 10 feet away there is an >orange tree about 10 years old which does great with watering every few >weeks. What can I do to bring this tree around? I appreciate any feedback. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > --__--__-- Message: 12 Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 16:31:19 -0700 (MST) To: From: PGil875599@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Why do my cucumbers get bitter? Why do all my pomegranetes split? --__--__-- Message: 13 From: "Linda Drew" To: PGil875599@aol.com, arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] cucumbers bitter, pomegranates split Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2002 23:58:23 +0000 >From: PGil875599@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 16:31:19 -0700 (MST) > >Why do my cucumbers get bitter? Here is an excellent answer from Tom Watson to the same question: The bitter taste is a chemical the plants usually produce in response to stress, usually the stress of some sort of insect pest attacking the plants. I've gotten bitter cucumbers this way twice: first the problem was cucumber beetles, with are like little green lady bugs, and have either stripes or spots. The second time the plants were attacked by squash vine borers. I'm told this is actually the more common problem of the two. If the vines have a tendency to wilt badly between waterings, check the first few inches of stem (from the ground up) and see if you find a swelling, or a mass of what might be described as wet sawdust oozing from the stem. You can slit the stem and remove the grub inside (actually the larva of a moth), the bind the wound up with a strip of old nylon stocking. (Wraping the first 4 or 5 inches of stem to begin with, by the way, can prevent the pest.) Survival of the plant is not assured, should you need to remove a grub, but it works often enough to beat just giving up. Tom > >Why do all my pomegranetes split? Pomegranates often split with too much water, a sudden increase of water after fruits have started to form, or uneven watering. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com --__--__-- Message: 14 Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 17:30:51 -0700 (MST) To: From: erjeter@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have two long small-leaf myrtle hedges bordering my front yard. The hedges are approximately 3 feet tall and 3 feet wide. My question is when and how often should I prune these hedges? I pruned them for the first time this spring two weeks ago. Thanks. --__--__-- Message: 15 Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 17:58:21 -0700 (MST) To: From: bluesjam@hotmail.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My young watermelon fruits are tuning black where they touch the bare ground.Any help with this would be appreciated. Thanks for your time JIM --__--__-- _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener End of Arid_gardener Digest From Nancy_Fiora@azd.uscourts.gov Mon Jun 3 16:59:10 2002 From: Nancy_Fiora@azd.uscourts.gov (Nancy_Fiora@azd.uscourts.gov) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 09:59:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206031659.g53GxAG23846@Ag.arizona.edu> I am trying to find a drawing that shows one how to build a berme, (donut-shaped mound) around a citrus tree to keep the water away from the trunk. I was going to send that to a friend, but can't find it. do you know where that is? Thanks. From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Mon Jun 3 18:50:35 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 11:50:35 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200206030746.g537kLG17592@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20020603185035.49120.qmail@web14904.mail.yahoo.com> Presently the 3-2gph emitters is good. As the tree grows, add more emitters and they all should be at the edge of the canope of the tree.Established trees should be watered every 10-14 days during the summer.You should run the drip system for at least 7-9 hrs. when you water.Your new tree should be watered that long every 7-10 days.Trees can go into transplant shock for over a yr sometimes.Usually,yellow leaces are a sign of overwatering(watering to often)and keeping the soil to wet.Remember, WATER DEEP but not too often. --- PocoLocoASU@aol.com wrote: > My 5 gallon lisbon lemon that I planted in mid-March > in Chandler has yet to put out any new growth. The > leaves are more yellow then they are green and there > are a couple small branches that have dried up and > died back about four inches. I have a thick layer > of mulch in the tree basin and my drainiage is > excellent. The tree was not planted too deeply and > it gets full sun. I have 3 two gallon an hour > emitters in the tree basin-how often does it need > watering? I water all my other established trees > once a week for 6 hours on drip. Is something wrong > with my tree? Would a little miracle grow help out? > Thx > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com From s2@arcworldwide.com Mon Jun 3 19:22:44 2002 From: s2@arcworldwide.com (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2002 12:22:44 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] chlorotic bottle brush References: <20020603185035.49120.qmail@web14904.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3CFBC204.92E6F4AE@arcworldwide.com> Hi all, About a month ago I asked about adding iron to a deficient bottle brush I have (in its 2nd year, growing great, just some signs of iron deficiency.) I gave it a dose of chelated iron a month ago, but it didn't improve the new growth, which still is veiny. I just reapplied another dose about a week ago, this time a little more according to directions since it has grown substantially. How often could/should I treat this thing until I see improvement? Isn't there a danger of 'burning' a plant with too much iron? Also, the brand I picked up said "iron with chelate with directions to mix into the top layer of soil, which I can't do since there is a decomposed granite mulch around the shrub, so I just tried watering in the solution really well. Perhaps I need to pull back the stones instead? (seems like that would be a pain every time it needs iron). Also, someone mentioned something about pounding a piece of rebar in the soil around the roots for extra iron in the soil. I think it was just an anecdotal remedy... any thoughts from the MGs whether a stick of iron rebar would really do anything? (I suppose if a cast iron skillet supposedly adds iron to the human diet, a stick of rebar just may add iron to the plant's diet, but it almost seems "too" logical. haha). -- Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. Vice President, Communications & Technology ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org ===================================================== "I became convinced we are here for each other." -- R. Buckminster Fuller From joan.was.faculty@email.rio.maricopa.edu Mon Jun 3 19:23:12 2002 From: joan.was.faculty@email.rio.maricopa.edu (joan.was.faculty@email.rio.maricopa.edu) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 12:23:12 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206031923.g53JNCG25675@Ag.arizona.edu> I have recently moved into a home that borders on the Phoenix Mountain Preserve. While I love seeing the bunnies on my patch of lawn, I don't have much lawn left! There is more dirt than lawn at this point...what can I do? Thanks...Joanie From s2@arcworldwide.com Mon Jun 3 19:40:18 2002 From: s2@arcworldwide.com (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2002 12:40:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] suckers Message-ID: <3CFBC622.F7C5C618@arcworldwide.com> One more question, about suckers on young trees. My pomagranate (2nd year), sweet acacia (about 2-years old) and fern-of-the-desert (2nd year) all insist on suckering. The pomagranate I gave up on, since its already a very shrubby (10-12 main stems) specimen anyway, but is there a solution other than constantly pruning these things off to keep them from growing to begin with? Just curious. I read to water my willow acacia on one side only to prevent suckering, and I haven't seen one sucker yet. Just wondered if the same thing would work for the other varieties? -- Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. Vice President, Communications & Technology ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org ===================================================== "I became convinced we are here for each other." -- R. Buckminster Fuller From s2@arcworldwide.com Mon Jun 3 20:01:11 2002 From: s2@arcworldwide.com (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2002 13:01:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200206031923.g53JNCG25675@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3CFBCB07.31BAFE9C@arcworldwide.com> > While I love seeing the > bunnies on my patch of lawn, I don't have much lawn left! You have a couple options from my experience (also against wildlands outside of Tucson). Fence them out, or comfort yourself with the fact that you're probably saving the little bunnies in this drought. Everything four-legged is pretty desperate right now, so no other "deterrants" will do much. Just don't be surprised if other, larger, less "cute" critters follow the bunnies onto your yard if there is moisture to be had. I've personally invested in LOTS of chicken wire for my younger plants, and let them go ahead and prune off the bottoms of my larger, more established shrubs, but I don't have a lawn. We've just gotten used to the javalenas, coyotes and bobcats that come with the bunnies. -- Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. Vice President, Communications & Technology ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org ===================================================== "I became convinced we are here for each other." -- R. Buckminster Fuller From rodmcq6@highstream.net Mon Jun 3 21:54:04 2002 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (rodmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 14:54:04 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite, pruning Time Message-ID: <002c01c20b49$2eccff60$e131db43@ibmbna6040> Michele, Desert adapted trees are best pruned during hot weather. It is not uncommon for the mesquite to weep sap and especially if larger branches are removed. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: Michele Robertson To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, June 03, 2002 9:57 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Arid_gardener digest, Vol 1 #359 - 15 msgs > >Miss Shelli From Joshua Tree California :) > I noticed I did some late summer pruning on my Mesquite >Tree this last season. It weeped " Black Juice" all over the sidewalks for months. What is the best time to prune a Mesquite Tree? Thankyou in advance. Michele Robertson. > > > > > > > > >On Sun, 2 Jun 2002 18:01:46 -0700 (MST) arid_gardener-request@Ag.arizona.edu wrote: >Send Arid_gardener mailing list submissions to > arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > arid_gardener-request@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >You can reach the person managing the list at > arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific >than "Re: Contents of Arid_gardener digest..." > > >Today's Topics: > > 1. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (AZDesertGal@att.net) > 2. Re: Cassia, brown seed pods (Linda Drew) > 3. re: zucchini and spinach (Steven C. Drew) > 4. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (jengay@cox.net) > 5. Lime tree doing poorly (J. Delson) > 6. Re: pruning desert shrubs (Linda Drew) > 7. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (tommie1@cox.net) > 8. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (ldcolgan@earthlink.net) > 9. Re: Question from Home-Hort WWW page (Tom & Linda Watson) > 10. Re: lawn, brown spots (Linda Drew) > 11. Lime tree doing poorly (rodmcq6@highstream.net) > 12. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (PGil875599@aol.com) > 13. Re: cucumbers bitter, pomegranates split (Linda Drew) > 14. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (erjeter@qwest.net) > 15. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (bluesjam@hotmail.com) > >--__--__-- > >Message: 1 >Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 20:17:44 -0700 (MST) >To: >From: AZDesertGal@att.net >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >I have a couple of large (5X5) cassia shrubs. They look good in the cooler weather but now the flowers have gone and the bush has brown pod like things hanging all over it. Is it possible to prune this plant and if so how? > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 2 >From: "Linda Drew" >To: AZDesertGal@att.net, arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Cassia, brown seed pods >Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 04:07:46 +0000 > > >Remove brown seed pods with a light natural pruning >(similar to deadheading roses) >or just knock off the pods after seeds have set to improve >appearance. > >Cassias are usually pruned after summer flowering or while >deciduous in winter. Prune naturally to keep plant form. >Do not shear into globes or squares. > >For more information, check the book "Pruning, Planting & Care" >by Eric A. Johnson. > >Linda Drew >Master Gardener > >>From: AZDesertGal@att.net >>To: >>Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >>Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 20:17:44 -0700 (MST) >> >>I have a couple of large (5X5) cassia shrubs. They look good in the cooler >>weather but now the flowers have gone and the bush has brown pod like >>things hanging all over it. Is it possible to prune this plant and if so >>how? >> >>_______________________________________________ >>Arid_gardener mailing list >>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > >_________________________________________________________________ >Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 3 >From: "Steven C. Drew" >To: >Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 21:27:30 -0700 >Subject: [Arid_gardener] re: zucchini and spinach > >This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > >------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C20820.CDCDD6B0 >Content-Type: text/plain; > charset="iso-8859-1" >Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > >My zucchini's have been producing profusely for about three weeks now, = >one of the latest going about 5 pounds. Lots of sun is a good thing. = >Lots of water, never allowing the plant to totally wilt is good too. A = >good "rule of thumb" is that vegetables and annuals should never lack = >for food or water and have really good soil. Many problems with = >vegetables seem to come from too much or too little of food or water. It = >is almost impossible to play "catch up" with vegetables. The season is = >just too short. But you can start a second crop later on in August or = >so, that may produce unitl first frost. There is no substitute for good = >soil preparation including adding organic matter, gypsum, and possibly = >soil sulpher and some pre-plant fertilizer that is heavy in Phosphorous, = >worked well into the soil. Selecting varieties that are known to be = >successful in our area is a good thing too. Plants sown from seed = >often-times seem to out perform transplants as well.=20 > >Spinach is better grown during the winter months, as are most leafy = >vegetables. > >Don't give up-keep trying-true gardening beats yard work any day! > >Steve Drew, Master Gardener, CID, CGIA > >This was the question: > >I have zucchini plants which had blossoms about 4 weeks ago but don't = >see any veggies yet. How long does this process take? Should these = >plants be in the direct sun all day? I have them planted under a shade = >screened area as I don't believe this AZ sun is good for most plants. >Also spinach. It is growing in the same location as my zucchini. I = >have never seen spinach which looks like mine. Usually the leaves are = >large and wrinkled but mine has small smooth pointed leaves. The = >largest of the leaves is about the size of my palm. Most are small about = >the size of my thumb or smaller. What do I need to do with this? > > >-- __--__-- > > >------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C20820.CDCDD6B0 >Content-Type: text/html; > charset="iso-8859-1" >Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > > >charset=3Diso-8859-1"> > > > > >
>
My zucchini's have been producing = >profusely for=20 >about three weeks now, one of the latest going about 5 pounds. Lots of = >sun is a=20 >good thing. Lots of water, never allowing the plant to totally wilt is = >good too.=20 >A good "rule of thumb" is that vegetables and annuals should never lack = >for food=20 >or water and have really good soil. Many problems with vegetables seem = >to come=20 >from too much or too little of food or water. It is almost impossible to = >play=20 >"catch up" with vegetables. The season is just too short. But you can = >start a=20 >second crop later on in August or so,  that may produce unitl first = >frost.=20 >There is no substitute for good soil preparation including adding = >organic=20 >matter, gypsum, and possibly soil sulpher and some pre-plant fertilizer = >that is=20 >heavy in Phosphorous, worked well into the soil. Selecting varieties = >that are=20 >known to be successful in our area is a good thing too. Plants sown from = >seed=20 >often-times seem to out perform transplants as well.
>
 
>
Spinach is better grown during the winter months, as are most leafy = > >vegetables.
>
 
>
Don't give up-keep trying-true = >gardening beats yard=20 >work any day!
>
 
>
Steve Drew, Master Gardener, CID,=20 >CGIA
>
 
>
This was the question:
>
 
>
size=3D3>I have zucchini=20 >plants which had blossoms about 4 weeks ago but don't see any veggies = >yet. =20 >How long does this process take?  Should these plants be in the = >direct sun=20 >all day?  I have them planted under a shade screened area as I = >don't=20 >believe this AZ sun is good for most plants.
Also spinach.  It = >is=20 >growing in the same location as my zucchini.  I have never seen = >spinach=20 >which looks like mine.  Usually the leaves are large and wrinkled = >but mine=20 >has small smooth pointed leaves.  The largest of the leaves is = >about the=20 >size of my palm. Most are small about the size of my thumb or smaller. = >What do I=20 >need to do with=20 >this?


-- __--__--

> >------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C20820.CDCDD6B0-- > > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 4 >Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 22:17:10 -0700 (MST) >To: >From: jengay@cox.net >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >I have been searching for the name of the tree that I have seen in some cityscape use. The tree has a beautiful and distinctive smooth shimmering copper trunk. I think it is a Swamp Mallet (Eucalyptus spathulata). Would this tree be good near a pool? > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 5 >Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 22:13:42 -0700 >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >From: "J. Delson" >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lime tree doing poorly > >My Mexican lime tree which was planted from a 24" box about 14 months ago >is doing poorly this year. It is on the north side of the house. The soil >is clay-like. Although it flowered well, almost all the blossoms dropped >off with only a few limes now growing. If I water it (usually 30 minutes) >at weekly intervals many of the leaves turn completely yellow and drop >off. They also curl. If I water it any more often, the leaves look >sickly and have green veins with large areas of yellow surrounding, which >I always thought was a sign of over-watering. I use ironite on the soil >occasionally which doesn't seem to help. About 10 feet away there is an >orange tree about 10 years old which does great with watering every few >weeks. What can I do to bring this tree around? I appreciate any feedback. > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 6 >From: "Linda Drew" >To: AZDesertGal@worldnet.att.net, arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] pruning desert shrubs >Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2002 13:07:41 +0000 > >Prune cassias lightly and keep natural shape. (Do you >know which particular cassia you have?) > >Mexican bird - (this is the one with very green leaves >and yellow flowers) is usually pruned in late spring to >remove any long lanky branches. It is a little late, but >if the plant is healthy and vigorously growing probably >O.K. to prune now. > >Red bird (red & yellow flowers) is pruned in midsummer (now) >to control exuberant growth. Major pruning is done in late >winter. > >Desert bird (yellow flowers with red stamens, sparse growth) >is also pruned in winter. > >Roses are usually pruned lightly in October and often more >heavily pruned in January. Roses are not pruned back as far >in the desert as they are in the north. > >Linda Drew >Master Gardener > >>From: "Sindi Stack" >>To: "Linda Drew" >>Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Cassia, brown seed pods >>Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 18:25:36 -0700 >> >>My cassias do not bloom in the summer only during winter. They have >>finished blooming so is it OK to prune them now and how far back can they >>be >>pruned. Can they be pruned back as far as my roses and Mexican bird? >>----- Original Message ----- >>From: "Linda Drew" >>To: ; >>Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002 9:07 PM >>Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Cassia, brown seed pods >> >> >> > >> > Remove brown seed pods with a light natural pruning >> > (similar to deadheading roses) >> > or just knock off the pods after seeds have set to improve >> > appearance. >> > >> > Cassias are usually pruned after summer flowering or while >> > deciduous in winter. Prune naturally to keep plant form. >> > Do not shear into globes or squares. >> > >> > For more information, check the book "Pruning, Planting & Care" >> > by Eric A. Johnson. >> > >> > Linda Drew >> > Master Gardener >> > >> > >From: AZDesertGal@att.net >> > >To: >> > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >> > >Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 20:17:44 -0700 (MST) >> > > >> > >I have a couple of large (5X5) cassia shrubs. They look good in the >>cooler >> > >weather but now the flowers have gone and the bush has brown pod like >> > >things hanging all over it. Is it possible to prune this plant and if >>so >> > >how? >> > > >> > >_______________________________________________ >> > >Arid_gardener mailing list >> > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >> > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > _________________________________________________________________ >> > Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com >> > > > > > >_________________________________________________________________ >Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. >http://www.hotmail.com > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 7 >Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 08:00:00 -0700 (MST) >To: >From: tommie1@cox.net >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >Three years ago I planted midiron sod. Up to now it was doing fine. This spring it started showing brown spots..some have now grown to three feet. I was watering at night but now I water twice a week in the morning . Any idea what happened? > >Thx. Tom Nolta > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 8 >Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 10:08:42 -0700 (MST) >To: >From: ldcolgan@earthlink.net >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >Can you tell me why my cucumbers are bitter tasting? The plant looks healthy the cucumbers look delicious and >crisp, but they taste bitter. > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 9 >From: "Tom & Linda Watson" >To: , >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 10:25:24 -0700 > >The bitter taste is a chemical the plants usually produce in response to >stress, usually the stress of some sort of insect pest attacking the plants. >I've gotten bitter cucumbers this way twice: first the problem was cucumber >beetles, with are like little green lady bugs, and have either stripes or >spots. The second time the plants were attacked by squash vine borers. >I'm told this is actually the more common problem of the two. If the vines >have a tendency to wilt badly between waterings, check the first few inches >of stem (from the ground up) and see if you find a swelling, or a mass of >what might be described as wet sawdust oozing from the stem. You can slit >the stem and remove the grub inside (actually the larva of a moth), the bind >the wound up with a strip of old nylon stocking. (Wraping the first 4 or 5 >inches of stem to begin with, by the way, can prevent the pest.) Survival >of the plant is not assured, should you need to remove a grub, but it works >often enough to beat just giving up. > >Tom > >----- Original Message ----- >From: >To: >Sent: Saturday, June 01, 2002 10:08 AM >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > >> Can you tell me why my cucumbers are bitter tasting? The plant looks >healthy the cucumbers look delicious and >> crisp, but they taste bitter. >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Arid_gardener mailing list >> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >> > > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 10 >From: "Linda Drew" >To: tommie1@cox.net, arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] lawn, brown spots >Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2002 18:26:33 +0000 > > >I would suggest you collect a sample at the edge of the >brown spot (some healthy grass, some sick and some dead), >dig down about 12 inches and put the sample in a sealed plastic >bag and refrigerate. Take the sample to your local >Cooperative Extension Office for positive ID. > >Most lawn problems are watering problems -- too much, too >little, compacted soil, sprinkler missing a spot, thatch >builup, etc. But the problem might be a fungal disease >like spring dead spot. If it is spring dead spot, maintaining >a healthy turf will speed recovery. Aerating and verticutting >can spread the fungus. > >Linda Drew >Master Gardener > > >>From: tommie1@cox.net >>To: >>Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >>Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 08:00:00 -0700 (MST) >> >>Three years ago I planted midiron sod. Up to now it was doing fine. This >>spring it started showing brown spots..some have now grown to three feet. I >>was watering at night but now I water twice a week in the morning . Any >>idea what happened? >> >>Thx. Tom Nolta >> >>_______________________________________________ >>Arid_gardener mailing list >>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > >_________________________________________________________________ >Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 11 >Reply-To: >From: >To: "J. Delson" >Cc: >Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 13:18:41 -0700 >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lime tree doing poorly > >Citrus trees typically do not bear fruit until they have been in the ground >for 4 to 5 years, until that time the tree automatically drops most of its >fruit. >The green veins on yellow leaves on your lime tree is called chlorosis which >is usually caused by over watering. You need to correct your watering >practice. The application of chelated iron will usually help to correct the >problem. Ironite will eventually help but it takes a long time, sometimes >over one year. >Check out these sites for info on proper irrigation: >http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html >http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf > >Good luck. > >Rod McKusick >Master Gardener > >-----Original Message----- >From: J. Delson >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Date: Friday, May 31, 2002 10:14 PM >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lime tree doing poorly > > >>My Mexican lime tree which was planted from a 24" box about 14 months ago >>is doing poorly this year. It is on the north side of the house. The soil >>is clay-like. Although it flowered well, almost all the blossoms dropped >>off with only a few limes now growing. If I water it (usually 30 minutes) >>at weekly intervals many of the leaves turn completely yellow and drop >>off. They also curl. If I water it any more often, the leaves look >>sickly and have green veins with large areas of yellow surrounding, which >>I always thought was a sign of over-watering. I use ironite on the soil >>occasionally which doesn't seem to help. About 10 feet away there is an >>orange tree about 10 years old which does great with watering every few >>weeks. What can I do to bring this tree around? I appreciate any feedback. >> >>_______________________________________________ >>Arid_gardener mailing list >>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >> > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 12 >Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 16:31:19 -0700 (MST) >To: >From: PGil875599@aol.com >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >Why do my cucumbers get bitter? > >Why do all my pomegranetes split? > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 13 >From: "Linda Drew" >To: PGil875599@aol.com, arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] cucumbers bitter, pomegranates split >Date: Sat, 01 Jun 2002 23:58:23 +0000 > > > > >>From: PGil875599@aol.com >>To: >>Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >>Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 16:31:19 -0700 (MST) >> >>Why do my cucumbers get bitter? > >Here is an excellent answer from Tom Watson to the same question: > >The bitter taste is a chemical the plants usually produce in response to >stress, usually the stress of some sort of insect pest attacking the plants. >I've gotten bitter cucumbers this way twice: first the problem was cucumber >beetles, with are like little green lady bugs, and have either stripes or >spots. The second time the plants were attacked by squash vine borers. >I'm told this is actually the more common problem of the two. If the vines >have a tendency to wilt badly between waterings, check the first few inches >of stem (from the ground up) and see if you find a swelling, or a mass of >what might be described as wet sawdust oozing from the stem. You can slit >the stem and remove the grub inside (actually the larva of a moth), the bind >the wound up with a strip of old nylon stocking. (Wraping the first 4 or 5 >inches of stem to begin with, by the way, can prevent the pest.) Survival >of the plant is not assured, should you need to remove a grub, but it works >often enough to beat just giving up. > >Tom > > >> >>Why do all my pomegranetes split? > >Pomegranates often split with too much water, a sudden increase >of water after fruits have started to form, or uneven watering. >> >>_______________________________________________ >>Arid_gardener mailing list >>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > >_________________________________________________________________ >Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 14 >Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 17:30:51 -0700 (MST) >To: >From: erjeter@qwest.net >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >I have two long small-leaf myrtle hedges bordering my front yard. The hedges are approximately 3 feet tall and 3 feet wide. My question is when and how often should I prune these hedges? I pruned them for the first time this spring two weeks ago. Thanks. > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 15 >Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2002 17:58:21 -0700 (MST) >To: >From: bluesjam@hotmail.com >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >My young watermelon fruits are tuning black where they touch the bare ground.Any help with this would be appreciated. >Thanks for your time >JIM > > > >--__--__-- > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > >End of Arid_gardener Digest > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rodmcq6@highstream.net Mon Jun 3 22:03:49 2002 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (rodmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 15:03:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvillea care Message-ID: <003d01c20b4a$8b19bb40$e131db43@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_003A_01C20B0F.DDB77D00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Allan, Bougainvilea is best planted where it has full sun, and it does not = require a lot of water and practically no fertilizer. If the roots are = disturbed when it is planted it may never recover and grow. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener=20 -----Original Message----- From: Allan Kane To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Sunday, June 02, 2002 7:26 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) barbara karst bouganvillia in southern california. leaves have lots = of red areas between veins and are stunted. poor plant growth, no = blooms. why? ------=_NextPart_000_003A_01C20B0F.DDB77D00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Allan,
 
Bougainvilea is best planted where it has full sun, = and it=20 does not require a lot of water and practically no fertilizer. If the = roots are=20 disturbed when it is planted it may never recover and grow.
 
Good luck.
 
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
-----Original = Message-----
From:=20 Allan Kane <allankane@cox.net>
To: = arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= =20 <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= >
Date:=20 Sunday, June 02, 2002 7:26 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = (no=20 subject)

barbara karst bouganvillia in = southern=20 california.  leaves have lots of red areas between veins and are = stunted.=20 poor plant growth, no blooms. = why?
------=_NextPart_000_003A_01C20B0F.DDB77D00-- From rodmcq6@highstream.net Mon Jun 3 22:17:28 2002 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (rodmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 15:17:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pine trees, watering Message-ID: <004d01c20b4c$7384d3a0$e131db43@ibmbna6040> Brown needles on your pine trees can be caused by inadequate irrigation, also can be caused by pine blight, a condition that is weather related, usually a rapid change in temperatures will cause the blight. A drip irrigation system is the most economical in terms of water usage that can be used. Check out these sites for info on proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://www.amwua.org/xscp-wateringschedules.htm Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener From: Norman.Kur@pinnaclewest.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, June 03, 2002 8:54 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >How frequent should I be watering mature pine trees (they are about 20 feet tall)? And how much water should they be getting? I ask the question because the pine needles on the underside of the trees are brown and falling off. I would consider putting in an extension of my irrigation/sprinkler system, but it seems to me some sort of drip system would just be wasteful. Does anyone have any suggestions? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From watsontl@mindspring.com Tue Jun 4 01:36:03 2002 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 18:36:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <20020603185035.49120.qmail@web14904.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001a01c20b68$3192be00$7f0ab83f@oemcomputer> FYI: The reason overwatered plants often turn a bit yellow is the inability of roots that are short on oxygen to take up nitrogen. Roots that are 'gasping for breathing' in soggy soil don't function normally, and one of the processes that stop working is the uptake of nitrogen. So after you've adjusted the watering schedule, a shot of miracle grow, while it probably wouldn't hurt, may not be necessary. I'd wait to see if the tree greens up on its own, first. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "jack blake" To: Cc: Sent: Monday, June 03, 2002 11:50 AM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Presently the 3-2gph emitters is good. As the tree > grows, add more emitters and they all should be at the > edge of the canope of the tree.Established trees > should be watered every 10-14 days during the > summer.You should run the drip system for at least 7-9 > hrs. when you water.Your new tree should be watered > that long every 7-10 days.Trees can go into transplant > shock for over a yr sometimes.Usually,yellow leaces > are a sign of overwatering(watering to often)and > keeping the soil to wet.Remember, WATER DEEP but not > too often. > > > > --- PocoLocoASU@aol.com wrote: > > My 5 gallon lisbon lemon that I planted in mid-March > > in Chandler has yet to put out any new growth. The > > leaves are more yellow then they are green and there > > are a couple small branches that have dried up and > > died back about four inches. I have a thick layer > > of mulch in the tree basin and my drainiage is > > excellent. The tree was not planted too deeply and > > it gets full sun. I have 3 two gallon an hour > > emitters in the tree basin-how often does it need > > watering? I water all my other established trees > > once a week for 6 hours on drip. Is something wrong > > with my tree? Would a little miracle grow help out? > > Thx > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup > http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From watsontl@mindspring.com Tue Jun 4 01:49:13 2002 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 18:49:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200206030058.g530wLG11596@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <003101c20b6a$08687ea0$7f0ab83f@oemcomputer> I've had this problem with several kinds of plants that like to sprawl on the ground. There are so many different sorts of microbes in soil its a wonder ALL fruit that touch the ground don't rot. There are several ways to deal with it, the best one being to grow the vines up a trellis. To support large fruit such as cantaloupe or ice-box watermelons you would need to rig a sling of some kind to take the weight off the vine. I've used old nylon hose (courtesy of the 'gardener's assistant') and those mesh bags that bird seed bells come wrapped in. If a trellis is impractical, you can place a thick (2 to 3 inches) layer of straw mulch under the fruit to lift it off the soil, or set an old tile, a brick, or some other water resistant object under the fruit to keep it from touching the ground. The item that works best will be the one you can get hold of easily, and is large enough for the fruit in question. For zucchini and acorn squash I've been using old tiles, since water just runs off them; you don't want water pooling up around your watermelons. Bottom line: get them off the ground. Even an inch or two will do it. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, June 02, 2002 5:58 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > My young watermelon fruits are tuning black where they touch the bare ground.Any help with this would be appreciated. > Thanks for your time > JIM > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From watsontl@mindspring.com Tue Jun 4 01:53:41 2002 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 18:53:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200206030530.g535UMG04743@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <003601c20b6a$a8248600$7f0ab83f@oemcomputer> When we lived in Phoenix we had geraniums growing on the east side of the house, where they received direct sunlight for only a few hours in the middle of the morning. That seemed to be plenty for them; they grew well and flowered profusely. Here in Tucson I'm growing geraniums (cuttings from those very same plants) in pots, which has proven more of a challenge, since the soil in the pots heats up more rapidly than the ground would, putting a lot of stress on roots. To make it work I group the pots so that no direct sun hits them. As for soil, we spread a couple of inches of compost over the soil surface in Phoenix, twice a year, and gave them a bit of miracle grow once a month (more or less). They seemed to do fine without much more than that. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, June 02, 2002 10:30 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Geraniums - oversummering in Phx. recommendations please. currently in pots, should I transplant to ground? If so, what exposure, sun-hours, shade, soil-amendments? > Thank you, Ingrid > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From stevendrew@mindspring.com Tue Jun 4 05:59:20 2002 From: stevendrew@mindspring.com (Steven C. Drew) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 22:59:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] re: iron chelate Message-ID: <002b01c20b8c$f910ccf0$781f8144@global> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0028_01C20B52.4BBA7590 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Sherryl's question is: Subject: [Arid_gardener] chlorotic bottle brush Hi all, About a month ago I asked about adding iron to a deficient bottle brush I have (in its 2nd year, growing great, just some signs of iron deficiency.) I gave it a dose of chelated iron a month ago, but it didn't improve the new growth, which still is veiny. I just reapplied another dose about a week ago, this time a little more according to directions since it has grown substantially. How often could/should I treat this thing until I see improvement? Isn't there a danger of 'burning' a plant with too much iron? Also, the brand I picked up said "iron with chelate with directions to mix into the top layer of soil, which I can't do since there is a decomposed granite mulch around the shrub, so I just tried watering in the solution really well. Perhaps I need to pull back the stones instead? (seems like that would be a pain every time it needs iron). Sherryl, Most Arizona desert soil has plenty of naturally occuring iron already = in it but due to the structure and chemistry of our soils it is not = available for the plant to use, which is why chelated minerals such as = iron work. (Take a magnet outside and drag it around your soil and see = all the fine particles of iron that stick to it) Iron Chelate can only = work if the product gets in direct contact with as many feeder roots as = possible, so yes, you have to get it into the soil under all that = granite. Iron intake seems to be best when the soil has fairly dried out = between waterings, so you need to allow the root zone to get a little = drier than normal for the iron chelate to be absorbed. I have a Melaluca tree near my pool that was watered by spray heads that = was very chlorotic. I tried spraying miracle grow on it and just burned = the leaves with no benefit. So I applied iron chlelate last summer after = the soil temperature had warmed up while the tree was activily growing = and I also removed the spray heads allowing the soil to stay much drier = and now I have a very lush, healthy tree, with less water used. I = applied my first dose of iron cheIate about a month ago and may do it = again later this summer if I see any new veining. I have done similar = treatments with my weeping bottle brush tree and standard bottle brush = tree with good results too. Spoon feeding a little water soluable = nitrogen like urea every few weeks might help out too. Everything that = happens within a plant revolves around nitrogen and making sure there is = enough can sometimes make the difference in the plant being able to take = up more minerals. I think that using rebar, nails etc, would be fruitless as the iron = would just get bound up in the soil and be unusable, but It may not hurt = anything unless a root is damaged while pounding in the rebar. Adding some gypsum should help leach some sodium and free up some = minerals too. Good luck and I hope the Hummer's come to visit your bottle brush. Steve Drew, Master Gardener ------=_NextPart_000_0028_01C20B52.4BBA7590 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Sherryl's=20 question is:
 
Subject:=20 [Arid_gardener] chlorotic bottle brush

Hi all,
About a month = ago I=20 asked about adding iron to a deficient bottle brush
I have (in its = 2nd year,=20 growing great, just some signs of iron
deficiency.)

I gave it = a dose=20 of chelated iron a month ago, but it didn't improve the
new growth, = which=20 still is veiny. I just reapplied another dose about a
week ago, this = time a=20 little more according to directions since it has
grown=20 substantially.

How often could/should I treat this thing until I = see=20 improvement? Isn't
there a danger of 'burning' a plant with too much = iron?=20 Also, the brand
I picked up said "iron with chelate with directions = to mix=20 into the top
layer of soil, which I can't do since there is a = decomposed=20 granite
mulch around the shrub, so I just tried watering in the = solution=20 really
well. Perhaps I need to pull back the stones instead? (seems = like=20 that
would be a pain every time it needs = iron).
Sherryl,
 
Most  Arizona desert soil has = plenty of=20 naturally occuring iron already in it but due to the structure and = chemistry of=20 our soils it is not available for the plant to use, which is why = chelated=20 minerals such as iron work. (Take a magnet outside and drag it = around  your=20 soil and see all the fine particles of iron that stick to it) Iron = Chelate can=20 only work if the product gets in direct contact with as many feeder = roots as=20 possible, so yes, you have to get it into the soil under all that = granite. Iron=20 intake seems to be best when the soil has fairly dried out between = waterings, so=20 you need to allow the root zone to get a little drier than normal for = the iron=20 chelate to be absorbed.
 
I have a Melaluca tree near my pool = that was=20 watered by spray heads that was very chlorotic. I tried spraying miracle = grow on=20 it and just burned the leaves with no benefit. So I applied iron = chlelate last=20 summer after the soil temperature had warmed up while the tree was = activily=20 growing and I also removed the spray heads allowing the soil to stay = much drier=20 and now I have a very lush, healthy tree, with less water used. I = applied my=20 first dose of iron cheIate about a month ago and may do it again later = this=20 summer if I see any new veining. I have done similar = treatments with=20 my weeping bottle brush tree and standard bottle brush tree with good = results=20 too. Spoon feeding a little  water soluable nitrogen like urea = every=20 few weeks might help out too. Everything that happens within a plant = revolves=20 around nitrogen and making sure there is enough can sometimes make the=20 difference in the plant being able to take up more = minerals.
 
I think that using rebar, nails etc, = would be=20 fruitless as the iron would just get bound up in the soil and be = unusable, but=20 It may not hurt anything unless a root is damaged while pounding in the=20 rebar.
 
Adding some gypsum should help leach = some sodium=20 and free up some minerals too.
 
Good luck and I hope the Hummer's come = to visit=20 your bottle brush.
 
Steve Drew, Master=20 Gardener
------=_NextPart_000_0028_01C20B52.4BBA7590-- From stevendrew@mindspring.com Tue Jun 4 06:11:58 2002 From: stevendrew@mindspring.com (Steven C. Drew) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2002 23:11:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] re: double dike system Message-ID: <003601c20b8e$bd202fe0$781f8144@global> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0033_01C20B54.0F44CA00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable The question is: I am trying to find a drawing that shows one how to build a berme, = (donut-shaped mound) around a citrus tree to keep the water away from = the trunk. I was going to send that to a friend, but can't find it. = do you know where that is? Thanks. Nancy, Cooperative Extension Publication Q191 "Phyopthora Foot Rot Of = Cirtus-Control In the Home Garden" has a description and drawing of this. But the diagram is very simplistic, just two concentric circles (like a = donut) with a dot in the middle to indicate the tree. I make the first, inner dike about a foot or so away from the trunk, and = big enough to keep water out when I deep water with the bubbler system = or hose. The second dike is located just outside the tree's drip line, = where all the critical feeder roots would be or should be if the tree = has been getting watered wide enough. Hope this helps. But with this resembling a donut I can't resist sharing a little saying = I learned years ago... "Keep your eye upon the donut, and not upon the hole! Steve Drew, Master Gardener ------=_NextPart_000_0033_01C20B54.0F44CA00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
The question is:
 
I am trying to=20 find a drawing that shows one how to build a berme, (donut-shaped mound) = around=20 a citrus tree to keep the water away from the trunk.   I was = going to=20 send that to a friend, but can't find it.  do you know where that=20 is?   Thanks.

Nancy,
 
Cooperative Extension Publication Q191 = "Phyopthora=20 Foot Rot Of Cirtus-Control In the Home Garden"
has a description and drawing of = this.
 
But the diagram is very simplistic, = just two=20 concentric circles (like a donut) with a dot in the middle to indicate = the=20 tree.
 
I make the first, inner dike about = a foot or=20 so away from the trunk, and big enough to keep water out when I deep = water with=20 the bubbler system or hose. The second dike is located just outside the = tree's=20 drip line, where all the critical feeder roots would be or should be if = the tree=20 has been getting watered wide enough.
 
Hope this helps.
 
But with this resembling a donut I = can't resist=20 sharing a little saying I learned years ago...
 
"Keep your eye upon the donut, and not = upon the=20 hole!
 
Steve Drew, Master Gardener=20
------=_NextPart_000_0033_01C20B54.0F44CA00-- From pmnrbn@rc33.fsnet.co.uk Tue Jun 4 11:28:57 2002 From: pmnrbn@rc33.fsnet.co.uk (pmnrbn@rc33.fsnet.co.uk) Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 04:28:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206041128.g54BSvG09511@Ag.arizona.edu> How can I take a branch cutting from a conifer (leylandi)tree and transplant it to another part of the trunk ? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Jun 4 12:31:09 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 12:31:09 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Leyland cypress, cutting propagation Message-ID: reference: American Horticultural Society Plant Propagation, Alan Toogood Editor-In-Chief Leyland cypress: Take 6-inch semi-ripe wood cuttings from slightly shaded basal shoots; cuttings taken in mid to late summer; moderately difficult to propagate. May be able to slice cutting onto slightly thicker two-year old wood. I could find no reference to slicing branch cuttings into trunk -- doesn't sound likely that this would work. >From: pmnrbn@rc33.fsnet.co.uk >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 04:28:57 -0700 (MST) > >How can I take a branch cutting from a conifer (leylandi)tree and >transplant it to another part of the trunk ? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From umiller@azdps.com Tue Jun 4 12:46:25 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 05:46:25 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] re: iron chelate In-Reply-To: <002b01c20b8c$f910ccf0$781f8144@global> Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C20B8B.2A64BD40 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit I’ve found the same thing with my three bottle brushes. If the soil is dry, then the iron chelate seems to work better. I, however, don’t do anything about getting it into the soil because I have also have gravel around them. I just do as Sherryl tried – deep watering after applying the iron. It seems to work. I removed drippers from these plants a year ago to control the growth. The plants are generally happy even though they don’t get much watering at all. But once they start showing iron deficiency, I just apply the chelate and deep water. Over a few weeks things go back to normal. I only have to do this about three times a year. Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Steven C. Drew Sent: Monday, June 03, 2002 10:59 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] re: iron chelate Sherryl's question is: Subject: [Arid_gardener] chlorotic bottle brush Hi all, About a month ago I asked about adding iron to a deficient bottle brush I have (in its 2nd year, growing great, just some signs of iron deficiency.) I gave it a dose of chelated iron a month ago, but it didn't improve the new growth, which still is veiny. I just reapplied another dose about a week ago, this time a little more according to directions since it has grown substantially. How often could/should I treat this thing until I see improvement? Isn't there a danger of 'burning' a plant with too much iron? Also, the brand I picked up said "iron with chelate with directions to mix into the top layer of soil, which I can't do since there is a decomposed granite mulch around the shrub, so I just tried watering in the solution really well. Perhaps I need to pull back the stones instead? (seems like that would be a pain every time it needs iron). Sherryl, Most Arizona desert soil has plenty of naturally occuring iron already in it but due to the structure and chemistry of our soils it is not available for the plant to use, which is why chelated minerals such as iron work. (Take a magnet outside and drag it around your soil and see all the fine particles of iron that stick to it) Iron Chelate can only work if the product gets in direct contact with as many feeder roots as possible, so yes, you have to get it into the soil under all that granite. Iron intake seems to be best when the soil has fairly dried out between waterings, so you need to allow the root zone to get a little drier than normal for the iron chelate to be absorbed. I have a Melaluca tree near my pool that was watered by spray heads that was very chlorotic. I tried spraying miracle grow on it and just burned the leaves with no benefit. So I applied iron chlelate last summer after the soil temperature had warmed up while the tree was activily growing and I also removed the spray heads allowing the soil to stay much drier and now I have a very lush, healthy tree, with less water used. I applied my first dose of iron cheIate about a month ago and may do it again later this summer if I see any new veining. I have done similar treatments with my weeping bottle brush tree and standard bottle brush tree with good results too. Spoon feeding a little water soluable nitrogen like urea every few weeks might help out too. Everything that happens within a plant revolves around nitrogen and making sure there is enough can sometimes make the difference in the plant being able to take up more minerals. I think that using rebar, nails etc, would be fruitless as the iron would just get bound up in the soil and be unusable, but It may not hurt anything unless a root is damaged while pounding in the rebar. Adding some gypsum should help leach some sodium and free up some minerals too. Good luck and I hope the Hummer's come to visit your bottle brush. Steve Drew, Master Gardener ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C20B8B.2A64BD40 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I&= #8217;ve found the same thing with my three bottle brushes.  If the soil is dry, then the iron chelate seems to = work better.  I, however, = don’t do anything about getting it into the soil because I have also have gravel = around them.  I just do as = Sherryl tried – deep watering after applying the iron.  It seems to work.  = I removed drippers from these plants a year ago to control the growth.  The plants are generally happy = even though they don’t get much watering at all.  But once they start showing iron deficiency, I just = apply the chelate and deep water.  = Over a few weeks things go back to normal.  I only have to do this about three times a = year.

 

Ursula Miller

Not = a Master Gardener

<= span class=3DEmailStyle16> 

-----Original Message-----
From: = arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Steven C. Drew
Sent: Monday, June 03, = 2002 10:59 PM
To: = arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = re: iron chelate

 

Sherryl's question is:

 

Subject: [Arid_gardener] chlorotic bottle brush

Hi all,
About a month ago I asked about adding iron to a deficient bottle = brush
I have (in its 2nd year, growing great, just some signs of iron
deficiency.)

I gave it a dose of chelated iron a month ago, but it didn't improve = the
new growth, which still is veiny. I just reapplied another dose about = a
week ago, this time a little more according to directions since it = has
grown substantially.

How often could/should I treat this thing until I see improvement? = Isn't
there a danger of 'burning' a plant with too much iron? Also, the = brand
I picked up said "iron with chelate with directions to mix into the = top
layer of soil, which I can't do since there is a decomposed granite
mulch around the shrub, so I just tried watering in the solution = really
well. Perhaps I need to pull back the stones instead? (seems like = that
would be a pain every time it needs iron).

Sherryl,<= /font>

 

Most  = Arizona desert soil has plenty of naturally occuring iron already in it but due = to the structure and chemistry of our soils it is not available for the plant = to use, which is why chelated minerals such as iron work. (Take a magnet outside = and drag it around  your soil and see all the fine particles of iron = that stick to it) Iron Chelate can only work if the product gets in direct = contact with as many feeder roots as possible, so yes, you have to get it into = the soil under all that granite. Iron intake seems to be best when the soil has = fairly dried out between waterings, so you need to allow the root zone to get a = little drier than normal for the iron chelate to be = absorbed.

 

I have a Melaluca tree near my pool that was watered by spray heads that was = very chlorotic. I tried spraying miracle grow on it and just burned the = leaves with no benefit. So I applied iron chlelate last summer after the soil = temperature had warmed up while the tree was activily growing and I also = removed the spray heads allowing the soil to stay much drier and now I have a very = lush, healthy tree, with less water used. I applied my first dose of iron = cheIate about a month ago and may do it again later this summer if I see any new veining. I have done similar treatments with my weeping bottle = brush tree and standard bottle brush tree with good results too. Spoon feeding = a little  water soluable nitrogen like urea every few weeks might help out = too. Everything that happens within a plant revolves around nitrogen and = making sure there is enough can sometimes make the difference in the plant being = able to take up more minerals.

 

I think that using rebar, nails etc, would be fruitless as the iron would just = get bound up in the soil and be unusable, but It may not hurt anything = unless a root is damaged while pounding in the rebar.

 

Adding some gypsum should help leach some sodium and free up some minerals = too.

 

Good luck and I hope the Hummer's come to visit your bottle = brush.

 

Steve Drew, Master Gardener

------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C20B8B.2A64BD40-- From dennislynda@aol.com Tue Jun 4 17:17:05 2002 From: dennislynda@aol.com (dennislynda@aol.com) Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 10:17:05 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206041717.g54HH5G29048@Ag.arizona.edu> My tomatoes all have a brown spot that eventually grows as the tomato ripens. What is this and is there anything I can do about it? From watsontl@mindspring.com Tue Jun 4 18:39:08 2002 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 11:39:08 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200206041717.g54HH5G29048@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000e01c20bf7$1de26880$3955b83f@oemcomputer> Where on the fruit is the spot, and is the location pretty much the same on any of the affected fruit? Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 10:17 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > My tomatoes all have a brown spot that eventually grows as the tomato ripens. What is this and is there anything I can do about it? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From dedangelo@hotmail.com Tue Jun 4 21:25:28 2002 From: dedangelo@hotmail.com (dedangelo@hotmail.com) Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 14:25:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206042125.g54LPRG24131@Ag.arizona.edu> my garden has a bare dirt base. obviously i need to augment the soil; my question is: with what? Also can I use straw to hold in the moisture? thanks, diane From BILANA@concentric.net Tue Jun 4 22:22:27 2002 From: BILANA@concentric.net (BILANA@concentric.net) Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 15:22:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206042222.g54MMRG06858@Ag.arizona.edu> Which is more culturally and economically viable for a 20 x 20 foot flower garden- using my soil or a raised garden. 1. I am in a Perryvile- Rillito complex, PRB, 0-3% slopes. low in organic matter, soil contains quantities of lime, Class VII soil. 2. If I use this soil I will need to amend it with manure and peat moss, apply phosphorus 4 times a year and iron to compensate for the lime. 3. If i go with a raised bed, what do I have to buy to constitute the mixture? I would appreciate any advice that you could give me. Tel. No. 623-386-7787 or E-mail. From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue Jun 4 23:13:03 2002 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (Olin) Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 16:13:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Blossom End Rot ? References: <200206041717.g54HH5G29048@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <002501c20c1d$63444a80$5252530c@j0r9501> If the brown spot is on the bottom of the fruit, it is probably due to Blossom End Rot which is thought to be due to the inability of the plant to utilize calcium - usually due to irregular watering and not necessarily due to a lack of calcium in the soil. Manage the problem by applying gypsum (calcium sulfate) to the soil, improve water management through regular deep watering, use a mulch to reduce evaporation, and space tomatoes adequately to avoid water stress See also: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/cultural/blsm-rot.htm ----- Original Message ----- From: > My tomatoes all have a brown spot that eventually grows as the tomato ripens. What is this and is there anything I can do about it? From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue Jun 4 23:28:03 2002 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (Olin) Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 16:28:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Improving Soil References: <200206042125.g54LPRG24131@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <002c01c20c1f$7e0a02e0$5252530c@j0r9501> First loosen the soil by tilling or spading, then work in about 4 inches of composted organic matter and apply agricultural gypsum (follow label directions) or soil sulfur. Sulfur lasts longer but gypsum works faster. Then wet the soil thoroughly and allow it to dry for a few weeks and, if you have enough time, rototill or spade and wet the soil again and let it dry out again before planting. You could work in straw if you wait for it to decompose before planting but it works better to use composted material as an amendment and straw as a mulch. See also the Master Garden Manual at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/soils/improving.html#improving Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: To: From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Jun 4 23:24:55 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 23:24:55 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] soil preparation Message-ID: Hello, Diane It depends on what you want to grow. First test your soil drainage by digging a hole and filling it with water. If water is still standing in the hole the next day you have poor drainage (perhaps a layer of caliche) and you will need to punch a chimney through this impermeable layer to get good drainage. Native trees and shrubs can grow in this native soil with little or no augmentation as long as you supply appropriate water. Dig a hole only as deep as the root ball in the container and 4 to 5 times as wide. Remove the plant from the container and place it on firm soil; fill in with the backfill (removing any larger rocks). Water daily when you first plant, especially making sure the root ball is moist. Gradually lengthen the time between waterings. If, however, you want to grow non-native flowers, vegetables, and shrubs you will need to add at least 50% organic matter and supplement with a fertilizer such as ammonium phosphate. The organic matter can be composted manures, compost, your own kitchen compost, etc. Often, we plant in raised bed as a way to more easily control the environment. Mulching with an organic material such as straw or compost is a good idea to moderate soil moisture and soil temperature. I hope I've answered some of your questions. If you need more information, please send another email to the arid-gardener list. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: dedangelo@hotmail.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 14:25:28 -0700 (MST) > >my garden has a bare dirt base. obviously i need to augment the soil; my >question is: with what? Also can I use straw to hold in the moisture? >thanks, >diane > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Jun 4 23:36:00 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 23:36:00 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] raised beds or soil amendments Message-ID: I can't address the bottom line on which is more economically viable. My own experience has been that a raised bed is easier to manage and more productive. With a raised bed, it is easier to exclude rabbits, pocket gophers and other desert creatures in search of water and food. If you keep the beds at 3 to 4 feet deep, it is easier to plant and tend. If you do go with the eaised beds, you will want to add at least 50% organic matter of some kind to the beds, fertilize with ammonium phosphate or appropriate fertlizer for the flowers you are growing. Some material supply and garden stores sell garden mix in bulk. Check for one that is high in organic matter and the texture you desire. Often you can find free sources of cow manure, horse manure, goat manure, etc. but you may need space to compost these if they are fresh when you get them. Many coffee houses will let you have coffee grounds for free if you are willing to collect them on a regular basis. you can keep your own compost pile, too, with kitchen scraps. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: BILANA@concentric.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 15:22:27 -0700 (MST) > >Which is more culturally and economically viable for a 20 x 20 foot flower >garden- using my soil or a raised garden. >1. I am in a Perryvile- Rillito complex, PRB, >0-3% slopes. low in organic matter, soil contains quantities of lime, Class >VII soil. >2. If I use this soil I will need to amend it with manure and peat moss, >apply phosphorus 4 times a year and iron to compensate for the lime. >3. If i go with a raised bed, what do I have to buy to constitute the >mixture? >I would appreciate any advice that you could give me. >Tel. No. 623-386-7787 or E-mail. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From Linda.Trujillo@motorola.com Tue Jun 4 23:46:27 2002 From: Linda.Trujillo@motorola.com (Trujillo Linda-R37824) Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 16:46:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] RE:Alabama Bulbs Message-ID: <3F05200B37A1D511BE550002B3289243016B5DAE@az43exm04.phx.mcd.mot.com> Linda, Since I am located in Arizona, you may want to contact your local Cooperative Extension office for information specific to your part of the country. Here is a link to that information. http://www.aces.edu/ Good Luck! Linda Trujillo Master Gardener Maricopa County -----Original Message----- From: Lindabill32@cs.com [mailto:Lindabill32@cs.com] Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2002 8:06 PM To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Hello to another Linda! I live in Huntsville, (north) Alabama. Last summer I transplanted bulbs from a friend. The lillies healthily grew to about 8' and produced gorgeous red flowers. This year the plants have reached about 3', and started looking as if they're dying (dry, white, burned?). Thanks for any help you can give me. Linda D. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Wed Jun 5 00:24:15 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 17:24:15 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Did you know??, This one may smell. Message-ID: <20020605002415.10306.qmail@web14904.mail.yahoo.com> Did you know--- that the animal with the most acute sense of smell is the silk worm,Bombyx mori? it can detect the odor of a female moth more than 2 miles away. ^^^ dogs can smell about 1 million times better than humans. ^^^ ants smell through their antennae and their sense of smellis comparable to a dogs. ^^^ that the active ingredient in sskunk odor is etharethiol and it takes only 0.000000000000071 of an ounceof skunk essence for us to smell it. ^^^ spiders smell through "noses" on their first pair of front legs, so do monarch butterflies, houseflies,bees,and whip scorpions. ^^^ the scent of the beaver is highly prized for making perfume. ^^^ snakes smell with their tongue. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com From lbradley@sisna.com Tue Jun 4 23:24:36 2002 From: lbradley@sisna.com (Lucy Bradley) Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 16:24:36 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Water Conservation - Stage 4 (out of 5) Order in Pine, AZ Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020604162206.01cf1a78@ag.arizona.edu> Watershed Information No. 121 May 31, 2002 Daniel Salzler azwatershed@aol.com >4. Pine steps Up Water Conservation As the drought draws on, it's not just >fire that Rim country residents are worried about. It's the lack of moisture, >as well. Brooke Utilities' customers in Pine have been placed on an official >conservation level Stage 4. Brooke Utilities is the private water company >that serves many of the outlying communities in Rim country including Pine, >Strawberry, Mesa del Caballo, Whispering Pines, East Verde and Geronimo >Estates. > >The ACC has reissued the order for a water meter moratorium in Pine, limiting >new water meter installations to one per month, based on this statewide >drought. In addition Brooke Utilities has voluntarily shut down the pipeline, >dubbed Project Magnolia, which connects the two water systems of Pine and >Strawberry, Murphy said. "(A total of) 855,000 gallons of water has been >supplied by Strawberry through Project Magnolia since the first of the year." > >Typically Pine and Strawberry experience an increased population of people >looking to escape the heat every weekend. > >Water conservation stages > * Stage 1 No water conservation measures are in effect. > * Stage 2 Voluntary customer water conservation measures should be >employed to reduce daily consumption by approximately ten >percent (10%). Outside watering on weekends and holidays should be >curtailed. Outside vegetation watering may occur during weekday periods on >even days of the month for even numbered lots and odd numbered days >of the month for odd numbered lots. > * Stage 3 Voluntary water conservation measures should be employed to >reduce daily consumption by approximately twenty-five percent >(25%). Outside watering should be completely curtailed except for >permitted livestock. Indoor water conservation techniques should be employed >wherever possible. Restaurant patrons should be served water only >upon request. > * Stage 4 Voluntary water conservation measures should be employed to >reduce daily consumption by approximately forty percent (40%). Outside >watering should be completely curtailed and livestock should be watered only >when necessary. Mandatory indoor water conservation techniques should be >employed throughout customer residences. Restaurant patrons should >be served water only upon request. > * Stage 5 Mandatory water conservation restrictions are currently in >effect pursuant to regulatory enforcement proceedings. Such >regulatory restrictions may be in the form of moratoriums, curtailment >orders, meter disconnection without notice or the like. Customers should >confine themselves to not more than one-half of their usual indoor daily >water consumption except for permitted livestock. No outside watering should >be conducted. Restaurant patrons should be served water only upon request. From Azwatershed@aol.com Tue Jun 4 23:37:20 2002 From: Azwatershed@aol.com (by way of Kitt Farrell-Poe by way of Lucy Bradley ) Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 16:37:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Phoenix is more than 90 percent off its annual average rainfall. Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020604163357.01d98d58@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_1637244==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Watershed Information No. 121 May 31, 2002 Daniel Salzler azwatershed@aol.com 13. Drought Chokes The West. Arizona Has No Plan To Cope. Parker and= Yuma haven't gotten a drop of rain since the new year. Flagstaff is 7 inches of rain below normal for the year and has instituted mandatory water restrictions. Phoenix is more than 90 percent off its annual average rainfall. Prescott, whose tinder-dry conditions were dramatized two weeks= ago when 1,000 acres and four homes close to town burned, has had less than a third of its annual average rainfall. The reservoirs at Lakes Mead and Powell, designed to hold up to four years' water supply, are down to one year's supply. "We have the genesis of the worst fire season and the worst drought in history. The grass is waiting to explode in fire. I'm not sure what it will take to break the cycle," said Ken Evans, president of the Arizona Farm Bureau and a rancher outside Payson. "I've never experienced one as bad as the one we're in right now." The entire state was named a disaster area nine days ago (May 17th) by the U.S. Agriculture secretary because of dry weather. It's Arizona's worst drought since the 1950s, and although it doesn't rival the 1890s, when it= was so dry and windy that a good 6 inches of the state's topsoil blew away, this state is parched. Yet Arizona has no comprehensive plan in place to deal with the drought, a fact recognized by the governor's own Water Management Commission last December. "To date, water resource planning has not been a coordinated effort," commission members wrote in their final report. "The current planning= process does not formally recognize that the water resources of communities throughout the state are interrelated." The governor's commission proposed creating a statewide water plan, one that included a formal drought element, but the Legislature shelved the report this spring. "Currently there is no comprehensive and coordinated statewide program to develop and provide information on water conservation, assist water users in becoming more efficient or in planning for the acquisition of future supplies," the commission concluded. It recommended forming a statewide conservation commission, another proposal sidelined by the Legislature. What Arizona is left with are bits and pieces of plans. The Division of Emergency Management has a piece. The Department of Agriculture has a piece. The loose confederation of municipal water users have a little piece. But no one can pull it all together. The governor? All she can do, legally, is declare a state of emergency. The Intermountain West is dry as old bones, too, courtesy of bad weather patterns and worse luck. In Montana, now in its fifth year of drought, up= to 400,000 acres of winter wheat, which relies on snow and rain, rather than irrigation, that were seeded last autumn were written off. National winter wheat levels are at their lowest point since 1978. In Kansas, agricultural extension agents are saying a million acres of agricultural land may have to be abandoned this year because of the drought. But it is the West in general and Arizona, specifically, where the= conditions are the worst. There's not a county in the state that is rated in less than severe drought by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. Arizona is so tinder dry that three times as many acres of land already have burned this year than burned all of last year. "We have faced droughts before," said Rep. John Shadegg, R-Ariz. "This is= not the first nor is it the most severe. This drought is an opportunity to= remind people who have recently moved here how vitally important water is in Arizona." Some states prepare The Western Governors Association found a need for better drought response= in nearly every state, though some are better prepared than others: * Colorado updated its comprehensive drought plan in 2001. The plan calls= for constant monitoring, even during normal precipitation years, and ramps up responses as a drought worsens. It includes task forces that focus on water supply, wildfire protection, agriculture, tourism, wildlife, energy and health; and outlines trigger points at which those task forces begin their work. * Utah's drought plan also outlines specific actions that are to occur as drought conditions deepen, including some steps that continue even when rainfall is normal. Like Arizona's plan, Utah's relies on various agency heads to lead drought relief, designating one, the director of the Natural Resources Department, the state drought coordinator. * Montana's drought plan was blended into its statewide water resources= plan, a step taken after state agencies failed to respond adequately to droughts= in the 1980s. The plan outlines year-round monitoring requirements and specific responses if the early stages of a drought are detected. State officials can call a drought alert even before severe conditions set in, introducing mitigation efforts at a steady pace. * New Mexico uses a system of alerts from "advisory," which lets people know that conditions are ripe for a drought, up through "alert," "warning" and "drought emergency." At each level, agencies take steps related to agriculture; drinking water; wildfire and wildlife; and tourism. Arizona's Division of Emergency Management coordinates the state's drought response among the various agencies, but tends to respond mostly to specific events, such as wildfires. The Agriculture Department works with farmers and ranchers mostly to help secure federal emergency funding. The state Department of Water Resources has little or no authority over local water providers, even in times of drought. By Judd Slivka and Shaun McKinnon The Arizona Republic May 26, 2002 Copyright daniel .salzler 2002 Published by Environmental and Business Conflict Resolution Consulting Daniel Salzler Environmental and Business Conflict Resolution Consulting Environmental Assistance in: =E2=80=A2 Phase One Assessments =E2=80=A2 Hydrology issues (8 years as a compliance office with ADEQ) =E2=80=A2 Solid Waste issues (2 years as ADEQ Solid Waste Compliance= Coordinator for State) =E2=80=A2 EPA certified in Underground Storage Tank Inspections =E2=80=A2 EPA Certified Lead-Based Paint Hazard Inspector =E2=80=A2 EPA Certified Lead-Based Paint Hazard Risk Assessor =E2=80=A2Environmental Rights Issues =E2=80=A2 Environmental and Business Dispute Resolutions =E2=80=A2 Hostile Meeting Facilitation =E2=80=A2 34 years of environmental and people experience Tel: 623-930-8197 Fax: 623-930-0701 web: conflictdispute.com ----------------------------------------------------------- Colleagues: If you would like to receive this newsletter as a PDF file, please request: <> --=====================_1637244==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Watershed Information
No. 121
May 31, 2002

Daniel  Salzler           &nb= sp;            &= nbsp;            = ;            &nb= sp;      
azwatershed@aol.com
            &nbs= p;            &n= bsp;            =             &nbs= p;
<SNIP>

13.  Drought Chokes The West.   Arizona Has No Plan To Cope.  Parker and Yuma
haven't gotten a drop of rain since the new year. Flagstaff is 7 inches of
rain below normal for the year and has instituted mandatory water
restrictions. Phoenix is more than 90 percent off its annual average
rainfall. Prescott, whose tinder-dry conditions were dramatized two weeks ago
when 1,000 acres and four homes close to town burned, has had less than a
third of its annual average rainfall. The reservoirs at Lakes Mead and
Powell, designed to hold up to four years' water supply, are down to one
year's supply.

"We have the genesis of the worst fire season and the worst drought in
history. The grass is waiting to explode in fire. I'm not sure what it will
take to break the cycle," said Ken Evans, president of the Arizona Farm
Bureau and a rancher outside Payson. "I've never experienced one as bad as
the one we're in right now."

The entire state was named a disaster area nine days ago (May 17th) by the
U.S. Agriculture secretary because of dry weather. It's Arizona's worst
drought since the 1950s, and although it doesn't rival the 1890s, when it was
so dry and windy that a good 6 inches of the state's topsoil blew away, this
state is parched.

Yet Arizona has no comprehensive plan in place to deal with the drought, a
fact recognized by the governor's own Water Management Commission last

December.

"To date, water resource planning has not been a coordinated effort,"
commission members wrote in their final report. "The current planning process
does not formally recognize that the water resources of communities=20
throughout the state are interrelated."

The governor's commission proposed creating a statewide water plan, one that
included a formal drought element, but the Legislature shelved the report
this spring.

"Currently there is no comprehensive and coordinated statewide program to
develop and provide information on water conservation, assist water users in
becoming more efficient or in planning for the acquisition of future
supplies," the commission concluded. It recommended forming a statewide
conservation commission, another proposal sidelined by the Legislature.

What Arizona is left with are bits and pieces of plans. The Division of
Emergency Management has a piece. The Department of Agriculture has a piece.
The loose confederation of municipal water users have a little piece. But no
one can pull it all together. The governor? All she can do, legally, is
declare a state of emergency.

The Intermountain West is dry as old bones, too, courtesy of bad weather
patterns and worse luck.  In Montana, now in its fifth year of drought, up to
400,000 acres of winter wheat, which relies on snow and rain, rather than
irrigation, that were seeded last autumn were written off. National winter
wheat levels are at their lowest point since 1978. In Kansas, agricultural
extension agents are saying a million acres of agricultural land may have to
be abandoned this year because of the drought.

But it is the West in general and Arizona, specifically, where the conditions
are the worst. There's not a county in the state that is rated in less than
severe drought by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration.
Arizona is so tinder dry that three times as many acres of land already have
burned this year than burned all of last year.

"We have faced droughts before," said Rep. John Shadegg, R-Ariz. "This is not
the first nor is it the most severe. This drought is an opportunity to remind
people who have recently moved here how vitally important water is in
Arizona."

Some states prepare

The Western Governors Association found a need for better drought response in
nearly every state, though some are better prepared than=20 others:

* Colorado updated its comprehensive drought plan in 2001. The plan calls for
constant monitoring, even during normal precipitation years, and ramps up
responses as a drought worsens. It includes task forces that focus on water
supply, wildfire protection, agriculture, tourism, wildlife, energy and
health; and outlines trigger points at which those task forces begin their
work.

* Utah's drought plan also outlines specific actions that are to occur as
drought conditions deepen, including some steps that continue even when
rainfall is normal. Like Arizona's plan, Utah's relies on various agency
heads to lead drought relief, designating one, the director of the Natural
Resources Department, the state drought coordinator.


* Montana's drought plan was blended into its statewide water resources plan,
a step taken after state agencies failed to respond adequately to droughts in
the 1980s. The plan outlines year-round monitoring requirements and specific
responses if the early stages of a drought are detected. State officials can
call a drought alert even before severe conditions set in, introducing
mitigation efforts at a steady pace.

* New Mexico uses a system of alerts from "advisory," which lets people know
that conditions are ripe for a drought, up through "alert," "warning" and
"drought emergency." At each level, agencies take steps related to
agriculture; drinking water; wildfire and wildlife; and=20 tourism.

Arizona's Division of Emergency Management coordinates the state's drought
response among the various agencies, but tends to respond mostly to specific
events, such as wildfires. The Agriculture Department works with farmers and
ranchers mostly to help secure federal emergency funding. The state=20
Department of Water Resources has little or no authority over local water
providers, even in times of drought.  By Judd Slivka and Shaun McKinnon The
Arizona Republic  May 26, 2002

<SNIP>

Copyright  daniel .salzler 2002            =             &nbs= p;    
Published by Environmental and Business Conflict Resolution Consulting

Daniel Salzler           &nb= sp;            &= nbsp;            = ;            
Environmental and Business Conflict Resolution Consulting
   
       
Environmental Assistance in:   
=E2=80=A2 Phase One Assessments           = ;            &nb= sp;            &= nbsp;   
=E2=80=A2  Hydrology issues  (8 years as a compliance office with ADEQ)    
=E2=80=A2 Solid Waste issues  (2 years as ADEQ Solid Waste Compliance Coordinator
for
State)
=E2=80=A2 EPA certified in Underground Storage Tank Inspections    
=E2=80=A2 EPA Certified  Lead-Based Paint Hazard Inspector
=E2=80=A2 EPA Certified Lead-Based Paint Hazard Risk Assessor
=E2=80=A2Environmental Rights Issues
=E2=80=A2 Environmental and Business Dispute Resolutions
=E2=80=A2 Hostile Meeting Facilitation
=E2=80=A2 34 years of environmental and people experience

Tel: 623-930-8197          &nbs= p;            &n= bsp;            =             &nbs= p; 
Fax: 623-930-0701
web: conflictdispute.com         &nb= sp;            &= nbsp;            = ;            &nb= sp;   

-----------------------------------------------------------
Colleagues:  If you would like to receive this newsletter as a PDF file,
please request:
<<c:\program files\qualcomm\eudora mail\attach\Watershed Info No  121.pdf>>
--=====================_1637244==_.ALT-- From getz1976@netscape.net Wed Jun 5 18:03:56 2002 From: getz1976@netscape.net (getz1976@netscape.net) Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 11:03:56 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206051803.g55I3uG11340@Ag.arizona.edu> I just purchased a home and after watering the lawn a nasty little message appeared in the form of dead grass. A friend mentioned that this could have been done with an excessive amount of fertilizer, and an employee at Lowe's recommended using ironite to make it go away. It has been 3 weeks and the message is clearer than ever. Can someone please help me get rid of this unappealing housewarming gift? From gizmoaz@cox.net Wed Jun 5 18:08:00 2002 From: gizmoaz@cox.net (gizmoaz@cox.net) Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 14:08:00 -0400 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <20020605180800.MLNF4796.lakemtao08.cox.net@smtp.central.cox.net> I'm just curious, could this be your winter grass dieing out? How often do you water, and for how long? -- Chat with you later... ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.gizmoaz.com Over 250 roses and over 160 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! ***** Year of the Rose, 2002! ***** Some do, some don't, some will and some won't ... > > From: getz1976@netscape.net > Date: 2002/06/05 Wed PM 02:03:56 EDT > To: > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > I just purchased a home and after watering the lawn a nasty little message appeared in the form of dead grass. A friend mentioned that this could have been done with an excessive amount of fertilizer, and an employee at Lowe's recommended using ironite to make it go away. It has been 3 weeks and the message is clearer than ever. Can someone please help me get rid of this unappealing housewarming gift? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From getz1976@netscape.net Wed Jun 5 19:34:23 2002 From: getz1976@netscape.net (getz1976@netscape.net) Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 15:34:23 -0400 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <7DAB9497.73FFCB6C.0099AE4D@netscape.net> Even though I know nothing about grass I can definately say no...the grass that is dead says "F_ _ _ YOU". For some reason it was kind of funny at first, but now that it won't go away it isn't so easy to laugh. I water nightly at 9:00 pm for 6 min. As an aside, is this how I should water and should I be seeding my lawn with summer grass now? wrote: >I'm just curious, could this be your winter grass dieing out?  How often do you water, and for how long? > >-- >Chat with you later... >----- >Alan        Chandler, Arizona        Sunset Zone: 13 > >http://www.gizmoaz.com >Over 250 roses and over 160 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! >                     ***** Year of the Rose, 2002! ***** > >  Some do, some don't, some will and some won't ... >> >> From: getz1976@netscape.net >> Date: 2002/06/05 Wed PM 02:03:56 EDT >> To: >> Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >> >> I just purchased a home and after watering the lawn a nasty little message appeared in the form of dead grass.  A friend mentioned that this could have been done with an excessive amount of fertilizer, and an employee at Lowe's recommended using ironite to make it go away.  It has been 3 weeks and the message is clearer than ever.  Can someone please help me get rid of this unappealing housewarming gift? >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Arid_gardener mailing list >> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >> > > __________________________________________________________________ Your favorite stores, helpful shopping tools and great gift ideas. Experience the convenience of buying online with Shop@Netscape! http://shopnow.netscape.com/ Get your own FREE, personal Netscape Mail account today at http://webmail.netscape.com/ From stevendrew@mindspring.com Wed Jun 5 19:45:05 2002 From: stevendrew@mindspring.com (Steven C. Drew) Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 12:45:05 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] re: message in lawn Message-ID: <002701c20cc9$7ea57e50$ba1b8144@global> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0024_01C20C8E.D13E3700 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable We all need a little more information about this. What is the type of = Turf grass? Could be that someone srayed the "bad masseage" with a weed killer like = Round Up. If so, no amount of Ironite or Fertilizer with quickly cure = the problem. Even if fertilzer was used, it may take quite some time for = it to leach out, making it possible for new grass to grow. If you have = common bermuda grass, you can re-seed the area. If you have a hybrid = bermuda grass you can re-sod the areas. But I would get a sod cutter and = cut out a big enough area so that the message wouldn't be highlighted by = the new sod. Consider eliminating some of the turf and convert to Xeriscape, which = can be really pretty, require less yardwork and water. Steve Drew ------=_NextPart_000_0024_01C20C8E.D13E3700 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
We all need a little more information = about this.=20 What is the type of Turf grass?
 
Could be that someone srayed the "bad = masseage"=20 with a weed killer like Round Up. If so, no amount of Ironite or = Fertilizer with=20 quickly cure the problem. Even if fertilzer was used, it may take quite = some=20 time for it to leach out, making it possible for new grass to grow. If = you have=20 common bermuda grass, you can re-seed the area. If you have a hybrid = bermuda=20 grass you can re-sod the areas. But I would get a sod cutter and cut out = a big=20 enough area so that the message wouldn't be highlighted by the new=20 sod.
 
Consider eliminating some of the turf = and convert=20 to Xeriscape, which can be really pretty, require less yardwork and=20 water.
 
Steve Drew
------=_NextPart_000_0024_01C20C8E.D13E3700-- From Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com Wed Jun 5 20:04:59 2002 From: Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com (Zelhart Alan-rpcs30) Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 13:04:59 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B99307023B26FD@az33exm25.corp.mot.com> No, this is not how you should water. You should be watering longer, and less frequently. If you check this link: http://ag.arizona.edu/azmet/data/00plawn.htm It tells you how much water, in inches, you should be putting on your yard every three days. For me, this means watering for 20 minutes, every three days. To determine what it means for you, take some tuna cans and put them out in your yard in various locations, or something similar to tuna cans. See how long it takes to fill the can up to an inch. Then divide your time accordingly. If it takes 30 minutes to fill it up to an inch, then it would take 21 minutes to fill it up to .7 inches. Also, it is best if you water in the morning, rather than at night, you encourage fungus type damage when you water at night, and the yard stays wet all night long. The odds are slim, but they are still there. I hope this helps. -- Chat with you later... ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.gizmoaz.com Over 250 roses and over 160 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! ***** Year of the Rose, 2002! ***** I've learned.... That I can always pray for someone when I don't have the strength to help him in some other way. -----Original Message----- From: getz1976@netscape.net [mailto:getz1976@netscape.net] Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 12:34 PM To: gizmoaz@cox.net; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Even though I know nothing about grass I can definately say no...the grass that is dead says "F_ _ _ YOU". For some reason it was kind of funny at first, but now that it won't go away it isn't so easy to laugh. I water nightly at 9:00 pm for 6 min. As an aside, is this how I should water and should I be seeding my lawn with summer grass now? From getz1976@netscape.net Wed Jun 5 20:25:34 2002 From: getz1976@netscape.net (getz1976@netscape.net) Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 16:25:34 -0400 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <1B9BAF61.5A0E3C37.0099AE4D@netscape.net> This is a great help and truely appreciated...but can anyone help me figure out how to get rid of the nasty message? Zelhart Alan-rpcs30 wrote: >No, this is not how  you should water.  You should be watering longer, and less frequently.  If you check this link: > >http://ag.arizona.edu/azmet/data/00plawn.htm > >It tells you how much water, in inches, you should be putting on your yard every three days.  For me, this means watering for 20 minutes, every three days.  To determine what it means for you, take some tuna cans and put them out in your yard in various locations, or something similar to tuna cans.  See how long it takes to fill the can up to an inch.  Then divide your time accordingly.  If it takes 30 minutes to fill it up to an inch, then it would take 21 minutes to fill it up to .7 inches. > >Also, it is best if you water in the morning, rather than at night, you encourage fungus type damage when you water at night, and the yard stays wet all night long.  The odds are slim, but they are still there. > >I hope this helps. >-- >Chat with you later... >----- >Alan        Chandler, Arizona        Sunset Zone: 13 > >http://www.gizmoaz.com >Over 250 roses and over 160 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! >                     ***** Year of the Rose, 2002! ***** > >  I've learned.... That I can always pray for someone when I don't have the strength to help him in some other way. > >-----Original Message----- >From: getz1976@netscape.net [mailto:getz1976@netscape.net] >Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 12:34 PM >To: gizmoaz@cox.net; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > >Even though I know nothing about grass I can definately say no...the grass that is dead says "F_ _ _ YOU".  For some reason it was kind of funny at first, but now that it won't go away it isn't so easy to laugh.  I water nightly at 9:00 pm for 6 min.  As an aside, is this how I should water and should I be seeding my lawn with summer grass now? > > __________________________________________________________________ Your favorite stores, helpful shopping tools and great gift ideas. Experience the convenience of buying online with Shop@Netscape! http://shopnow.netscape.com/ Get your own FREE, personal Netscape Mail account today at http://webmail.netscape.com/ From jdrox@cox.net Wed Jun 5 21:17:59 2002 From: jdrox@cox.net (jdrox@cox.net) Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 14:17:59 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206052117.g55LHxG23350@Ag.arizona.edu> How do I remove bermuda grass (and not worry about it coming back), so I can replace it with arid plants and rock landscape? From rodmcq6@highstream.net Wed Jun 5 22:18:43 2002 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (rodmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 15:18:43 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Removing bermuda grass turf Message-ID: <006a01c20cdf$ccb74b80$2c2c0a3f@ibmbna6040> Bermuda grass must be actively growing in order for herbicides to be effective. Water routinely for at least a week then apply an herbicide such as Roundup. Continue watering for about two weeks then make another application of herbicide to any live grass that is still growing, usually this will do the job. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: jdrox@cox.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 2:18 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >How do I remove bermuda grass (and not worry about it coming back), so I can replace it with arid plants and rock landscape? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From mmittelstaedt@earthlink.net Wed Jun 5 23:16:14 2002 From: mmittelstaedt@earthlink.net (Mark Mittelstaedt) Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 16:16:14 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] cultivation of flame tree seeds Message-ID: <011001c20ce6$fe445e20$6382dd18@az.sprintbbd.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_010D_01C20CAC.50D15700 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I was in Puerto Vallarta last week and got some seed pods from the Flame = Tree, aka poinciana / flamboyant / tabachin. I got some seeds before = when I was on St. Croix, scarified them and planted them, but they = didn't germinate. The tree is beautiful - like a mimosa, but covered = with bright red flowers in full bloom. Someone I met in Mexico suggested = soaking the seeds in water for three days, then planting them in a pot = covered with plastic to keep the humidity up there. Has anyone grown = this tree before ? I have never seen one in AZ, but I think I can keep = it happy from a humidity / put it where it won't freeze perspective. Any = advice out there ? Thanks. ------=_NextPart_000_010D_01C20CAC.50D15700 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I was in Puerto Vallarta last week and got some seed = pods from=20 the Flame Tree, aka poinciana / flamboyant / tabachin. I got some seeds = before=20 when I was on St. Croix, scarified them and planted them, but they = didn't=20 germinate. The tree is beautiful - like a mimosa, but covered with = bright red=20 flowers in full bloom. Someone I met in Mexico suggested soaking the = seeds=20 in water for three days, then planting them in a pot covered with = plastic=20 to keep the humidity up there. Has anyone grown this tree before ? I = have never=20 seen one in AZ, but I think I can keep it happy from a humidity / put it = where=20 it won't freeze perspective. Any advice out there ?=20 Thanks.
------=_NextPart_000_010D_01C20CAC.50D15700-- From burgesscr@hotmail.com Thu Jun 6 01:31:09 2002 From: burgesscr@hotmail.com (burgesscr@hotmail.com) Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 18:31:09 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206060131.g561V9G07572@Ag.arizona.edu> We just finished building a rock waterfall in our backyard, and now the bees have completely taken it over. We've tried leaving the waterfall off for a week (hoping the bees would find a different water source), covering it with screen, adding soap to the water, even putting a bowl of water in a different part of the property, but nothing is working. The sad part is that we're afraid to spend time in our backyard with our baby because we're afraid of the bees swarming, and now we're not enjoying our new waterfall at all. We don't want to kill the bees (I'm sure another hive would move in right away anyway), and we don't want to put anything toxic in the water since our pets drink from it regularly. Any suggestions? From gthomas7522@msn.com Thu Jun 6 02:57:32 2002 From: gthomas7522@msn.com (gthomas7522@msn.com) Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 19:57:32 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206060257.g562vWG15528@Ag.arizona.edu> We purchased a 3 feet high navel orange tree from a nursery about two months ago. It seemed to be doing fine with being watered daily and also getting irrigation every two weeks. However with the recent high temperatures in Phoenix, the tree is developing yellow leaves. Is this due to heat stress, a mineral deficiency, or something else? Thanks for your help. From popsy97@yahoo.com Thu Jun 6 02:58:42 2002 From: popsy97@yahoo.com (Judy Braden) Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 19:58:42 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200206060131.g561V9G07572@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20020606025842.94085.qmail@web11004.mail.yahoo.com> A couple of years ago I had trouble with bees in my pond. I'd had little problem before that time, bees would come and go but just a few at a time. Then there started to be more, and more, until, having a slight allergy to bee stings I figured something needed to be done. I watched the bees to see where they went and found that my neighbor had a hive starting in a hollow tree trunk. After I was stung while cleaning my pond, they agreed to have them removed and cut the tree down. That was the end of the problem. Bees are very dangerous to have that close to you. Watch where they go to a hive and get rid of them soon, before they swarm and cause you trouble as it gets hotter and they get madder. Do not try to remove them yourself! Get rid of that hive and the bees and your problem will be gone. They won't necessarily come back. When you find where they hive, fill the holes so they can't start again. Do it soon! --- burgesscr@hotmail.com wrote: > We just finished building a rock waterfall in our > backyard, and now the bees have completely taken it > over. We've tried leaving the waterfall off for a > week (hoping the bees would find a different water > source), covering it with screen, adding soap to the > water, even putting a bowl of water in a different > part of the property, but nothing is working. The > sad part is that we're afraid to spend time in our > backyard with our baby because we're afraid of the > bees swarming, and now we're not enjoying our new > waterfall at all. We don't want to kill the bees > (I'm sure another hive would move in right away > anyway), and we don't want to put anything toxic in > the water since our pets drink from it regularly. > Any suggestions? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Thu Jun 6 03:05:29 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 20:05:29 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question dead grass In-Reply-To: <200206051803.g55I3uG11340@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20020606030529.21045.qmail@web14905.mail.yahoo.com> You really didn't give enough info but based on what you have written, my first guess would be it was annual rye and not summer bermuda that you had.When did you buy the home? was the grass green then ? when did it start going brown? When and what did you fertilize it with? --- getz1976@netscape.net wrote: > I just purchased a home and after watering the lawn > a nasty little message appeared in the form of dead > grass. A friend mentioned that this could have been > done with an excessive amount of fertilizer, and an > employee at Lowe's recommended using ironite to make > it go away. It has been 3 weeks and the message is > clearer than ever. Can someone please help me get > rid of this unappealing housewarming gift? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com From usueme2@qwest.net Thu Jun 6 11:52:46 2002 From: usueme2@qwest.net (usueme2@qwest.net) Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 04:52:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206061152.g56BqkG10648@Ag.arizona.edu> How can I correctly determine the cause of rapidly deteriorating sunflowers in my garden with multiple symptoms that are common to both insect AND soil/disease problems? From Mark DiLucido" Message-ID: <003101c20d87$203e3910$3e00a8c0@CMP110> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_002E_01C20D4C.72D0D740 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I've seen a few Flame trees (Delonix regia) in Phoenix, usually in areas = where a warmer (Winter) microclimate will support them. They do fairly = well in Yuma which has warmer winters so if you can protect them from = frost/freeze you should be able to grow them here. Consult, "Landscape = Plants for Dry Regions", by Jones and Sacamano, p. 128 for the full = lowdown. Mark Di Lucido (not a master gardener) ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Mark Mittelstaedt=20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 4:16 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] cultivation of flame tree seeds I was in Puerto Vallarta last week and got some seed pods from the = Flame Tree, aka poinciana / flamboyant / tabachin. I got some seeds = before when I was on St. Croix, scarified them and planted them, but = they didn't germinate. The tree is beautiful - like a mimosa, but = covered with bright red flowers in full bloom. Someone I met in Mexico = suggested soaking the seeds in water for three days, then planting them = in a pot covered with plastic to keep the humidity up there. Has anyone = grown this tree before ? I have never seen one in AZ, but I think I can = keep it happy from a humidity / put it where it won't freeze = perspective. Any advice out there ? Thanks. ------=_NextPart_000_002E_01C20D4C.72D0D740 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I've seen a few Flame trees (Delonix = regia) in=20 Phoenix, usually in areas where a warmer (Winter) microclimate will = support=20 them. They do fairly well in Yuma which has warmer winters so = if you=20 can protect them from frost/freeze you should be able to grow them = here. =20 Consult, "Landscape Plants for Dry Regions", by Jones and Sacamano, p. = 128 for=20 the full lowdown.
 
Mark Di Lucido
(not a master gardener)
 
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Mark Mittelstaedt =
Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 = 4:16=20 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = cultivation of=20 flame tree seeds

I was in Puerto Vallarta last week and got some = seed pods=20 from the Flame Tree, aka poinciana / flamboyant / tabachin. I got some = seeds=20 before when I was on St. Croix, scarified them and planted them, but = they=20 didn't germinate. The tree is beautiful - like a mimosa, but covered = with=20 bright red flowers in full bloom. Someone I met in Mexico suggested = soaking=20 the seeds in water for three days, then planting them in a pot = covered=20 with plastic to keep the humidity up there. Has anyone grown this tree = before=20 ? I have never seen one in AZ, but I think I can keep it happy from a = humidity=20 / put it where it won't freeze perspective. Any advice out there ?=20 Thanks.
------=_NextPart_000_002E_01C20D4C.72D0D740-- From Art Zelov" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_007C_01C20D4E.D8DF05A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I just planted a 15 gallon size honey mesquite tree here in Scottsdale. = I know that it needs a lot of water until it establishes. Should I be = concerned that I might over water it? Art Zelov ------=_NextPart_000_007C_01C20D4E.D8DF05A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I just planted a 15 gallon size honey = mesquite tree=20 here in Scottsdale. I know that it needs a lot of water until it=20 establishes.  Should I be concerned that I might over water=20 it?
Art Zelov
------=_NextPart_000_007C_01C20D4E.D8DF05A0-- From krichley@mindspring.com Thu Jun 6 21:15:17 2002 From: krichley@mindspring.com (krichley@mindspring.com) Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 14:15:17 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206062115.g56LFHG17583@Ag.arizona.edu> Help. Something is killing off one vine at a time on my melon plants. It loooks like they are cut with scissors. The fruit is untoouched but the vines are snipped off t the ends and some have been snipped at the base. What could it be? I saw a small spotted lizard in the garden a few weeks ago. I thought it might be birds but the plants are pretty well covered. Could it be a chipmunk? Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks, Ken From Audry_Wolff@ci.mesa.az.us Thu Jun 6 21:30:03 2002 From: Audry_Wolff@ci.mesa.az.us (Audry_Wolff@ci.mesa.az.us) Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 14:30:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Calling all authors!!! Message-ID: Calling all authors!!! The Horticultural Communicator has been asleep for a while but it is being rekindled with the June/July issue. As before, there will be six issues produced each year. We will keep some of our regular features such as "Things to Expect and Things to Do", "The Neophyte Nook" and "Calendar of Events". Some exciting new features we will be adding are: "Better Landscape Design", highlighting the importance of good planning and offering design tips; "A Bountiful Garden," spotlighting different edible plants and including recipes for you to try; "Creature Comforts," with tips on attracting wildlife; "Meet the Natives," featuring a different native plant in each issue; "IPM Perspectives," describing non-chemical pest control methods and keeping you up-to-date on important changes in the chemical industry; and "Earth-Friendly Gardening," helping you stay informed about conserving our precious resources. The focus of our publication has changed slightly to enable us to stay in step with the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension Service's directive to promote Gardening in Harmony with Nature. In addition to our regular features, the editorial staff of the Communicator would welcome articles with a slant towards the following categories: Energy Conservation, Water Conservation, Green Waste Reduction, Water Quality Preservation (through reduction in use of pesticides and herbicides); Edible Landscaping; and Wildlife Habitat. We would appreciate hearing from our regular Master Gardener and Horticulture industry contributors as well as some of you who have not previously written articles for the Communicator. If you would like to write about these topics, please contact the editorial staff of the Communicator with a brief outline of your article including the title and approximate length. See below for email addresses or call Candice Sherrill at 480-396-3031. You may also bring your ideas to our monthly meeting, which is being held next Wednesday, June 12th at the Phoenix Extension office, address: 4341 E. Broadway Rd. at approximately 11:30 a.m. (directly following the MG Update). We would appreciate receiving your ideas for an article on a single page with a short synopsis of the article, a suggested title and the expected length. Candice Sherrill email: candicesherrill@msn.com Terry Tanner email: tttaxdog@msn.com Audry Wolff email: audry_wolff@ci.mesa.az.us From rodmcq6@highstream.net Thu Jun 6 23:24:32 2002 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (rodmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 16:24:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus, newly planted with yellow leaves Message-ID: <000c01c20db2$537dfa60$f01d0a3f@ibmbna6040> I suspect that the yellow leaves on your citrus are caused by over watering. Daily watering for the first two weeks after planting is ok but then you need to start to extend the time between watering. After being in the ground for two months your citrus should do well with a weekly suplimental deep watering between the flood irrigations for this time of year. Check out these sites for additional info: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf http://www.amwua.org/xscp-wateringschedules.htm Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: gthomas7522@msn.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 7:58 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >We purchased a 3 feet high navel orange tree from a nursery about two months ago. It seemed to be doing fine with being watered daily and also getting irrigation every two weeks. However with the recent high temperatures in Phoenix, the tree is developing yellow leaves. Is this due to heat stress, a mineral deficiency, or something else? Thanks for your help. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From watsontl@mindspring.com Fri Jun 7 01:39:22 2002 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 18:39:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200206062115.g56LFHG17583@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <002a01c20dc4$278d06a0$2941b83f@oemcomputer> Certainly doesn't sound like something a lizard would do, and if the vines are mature enough to be bearing fruit, cutworms and such are not likely either. Chipmunks, mice, rabbits - just about any small mammal desperate for food and water in this drought could be the culprit. Is there any way you can fence off the bottoms of the plants with something like chickenwire? Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2002 2:15 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Help. Something is killing off one vine at a time on my melon plants. It loooks like they are cut with scissors. The fruit is untoouched but the vines are snipped off t the ends and some have been snipped at the base. What could it be? I saw a small spotted lizard in the garden a few weeks ago. I thought it might be birds but the plants are pretty well covered. Could it be a chipmunk? Any insight would be appreciated. > > Thanks, > > Ken > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From watsontl@mindspring.com Fri Jun 7 01:41:06 2002 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 18:41:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200206061152.g56BqkG10648@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <004b01c20dc4$652a0940$2941b83f@oemcomputer> What are the symptoms? Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2002 4:52 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > How can I correctly determine the cause of rapidly deteriorating sunflowers in my garden with multiple symptoms that are common to both insect AND soil/disease problems? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From tguerin@worldnet.att.net Fri Jun 7 02:55:55 2002 From: tguerin@worldnet.att.net (tguerin@worldnet.att.net) Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 19:55:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206070255.g572ttG07885@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a 3 foot cactus that slowly laid flat on the ground. Can I dig it up and somehow replant it upright? From mccormick@drgeeks.com Fri Jun 7 03:37:19 2002 From: mccormick@drgeeks.com (mccormick@drgeeks.com) Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 20:37:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206070337.g573bIG14909@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like to purchase the Master Gardener Manual and would like to have a printed out version of the Timely Tips for reference. Please let me know what I can do to achive this! Thanks, Bryan McCormick 602-339-5014 From ls_twist@hotmail.com Fri Jun 7 03:51:18 2002 From: ls_twist@hotmail.com (ls_twist@hotmail.com) Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 20:51:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206070351.g573pIG16568@Ag.arizona.edu> I have just moved here from CA & have purchased a home here. The oleanders out front seem to yellow easily. Also the bermuda grass is a yellowing green. I added ironite to the grass with no noticeable change. And finally, the gazanias dont seem to be blooming. I am at a loss as to how to care for these plants. Any suggestions? From maryh8s2cook@msn.com Fri Jun 7 04:21:29 2002 From: maryh8s2cook@msn.com (maryh8s2cook@msn.com) Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 21:21:29 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206070421.g574LTG19980@Ag.arizona.edu> I am in the Phoenix area. I am composting my house rabbit litter box (recycled newspaper litter, hay & rabbit waste) in small barrels. It has been going fine for over a month by now I have some kind of larvae in my bins. How do I kill them? Thanks. Mary From rodmcq6@highstream.net Fri Jun 7 17:17:55 2002 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (rodmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 10:17:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plant care Message-ID: <003001c20e47$7e1ea680$ee2c0a3f@ibmbna6040> The first thing to learn for plant care here in the low desert is how to water properly. Check out these sites for information on irrigation and turf and plant care: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://www.amwua.org/xscp-wateringschedules.htm http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html http://ag.arizona.edu/turf/tt.htm http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/index.html It takes several months before you are likely to see any response from Ironite, better to apply a high nitrogen fertilizer. When the temperatures are over 90 you will not see many blooms on the gazanias. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: ls_twist@hotmail.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Thursday, June 06, 2002 8:52 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I have just moved here from CA & have purchased a home here. The oleanders out front seem to yellow easily. Also the bermuda grass is a yellowing green. I added ironite to the grass with no noticeable change. And finally, the gazanias dont seem to be blooming. I am at a loss as to how to care for these plants. Any suggestions? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From LindaMDix@aol.com Fri Jun 7 18:12:34 2002 From: LindaMDix@aol.com (LindaMDix@aol.com) Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 11:12:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206071812.g57ICYG27326@Ag.arizona.edu> Our 25 foot Saguaro cactus is oozing (a lot)a black shiny substance and looks like it has some kind of disease in an 18 by 4 inch strip up one side. Otherwise it looks healthy, and is the home of many birds. Is this normal or is this a problem for the cactus? Do we need to do something about it? We would hate to lose the cactus. Any suggestions are appreciated. Thank you. From hanareddy@firstinter.net Fri Jun 7 19:08:08 2002 From: hanareddy@firstinter.net (hanareddy@firstinter.net) Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 12:08:08 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206071908.g57J84G07998@Ag.arizona.edu> Are cacti regognized by the number of ridges or flanges present on their stalks? From gusnaz@worldnet.att.net Fri Jun 7 19:20:34 2002 From: gusnaz@worldnet.att.net (Gus Nelson) Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 12:20:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hibiscus Message-ID: <00eb01c20e58$73d14280$9757530c@computer> I am having a problem with my hibiscus. I planted 4 , five gallon plants they are all blooming and are on a drip system. I had planted a double hibiscus 1 month ago it has been dropping its blooms before they open. It is on the same drip timer and getting full sun, any ideas? I was wondering if it was still in shock from planting, it has no yellow leaves and is growing , just not opening blooms. Thanks for your help . Gus Nelson From echegeler@hotmail.com Fri Jun 7 19:22:22 2002 From: echegeler@hotmail.com (echegeler@hotmail.com) Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 12:22:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206071922.g57JMMG10693@Ag.arizona.edu> How do you kill nut grass in a bermuda(mid iron) lawn?? From umiller@azdps.com Fri Jun 7 21:51:55 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 14:51:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hibiscus In-Reply-To: <00eb01c20e58$73d14280$9757530c@computer> Message-ID: I have both types of hibiscus, too, and they're all doing well - but they were planted at the same time and in cooler weather. Having both types of plants, though, I have to say that I notice that the double hibiscus does not flower as profusely as it gets warmer, so they may not be as tolerant of our heat as the single ones are. Even a month ago, it was pretty darn warm around here so you're probably right - they're still adjusting to the planting and the heat. In fact, this site http://www.hiddenvalleyhibiscus.com/care/index.htm mentions that they don't like temperatures above 95 degrees. I wouldn't worry about them too much. As long as the bush stays green and healthy-looking, you'll probably be rewarded with some wonderful flowers next spring. Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Gus Nelson Sent: Friday, June 07, 2002 12:21 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hibiscus I am having a problem with my hibiscus. I planted 4 , five gallon plants they are all blooming and are on a drip system. I had planted a double hibiscus 1 month ago it has been dropping its blooms before they open. It is on the same drip timer and getting full sun, any ideas? I was wondering if it was still in shock from planting, it has no yellow leaves and is growing , just not opening blooms. Thanks for your help . Gus Nelson _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From linjimw@msn.com Sat Jun 8 22:17:24 2002 From: linjimw@msn.com (linjimw@msn.com) Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2002 15:17:24 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206082217.g58MHOG22976@Ag.arizona.edu> What is the average life span of an orange tree? My orange trees seem to be loosing their leaves. Is this a common occurrence for this time of year? Thank you. From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Jun 8 23:52:07 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 08 Jun 2002 16:52:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: References: <009801c20ddd$751f1520$b4fc0344@ph.cox.net> Message-ID: <3D0298A7.7030403@qwest.net> --------------070202050105070505020000 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Don't know and am therefor forwarding to the arid_gardener server to see if someone else can be of assistance. Linda Barbara Marcellus wrote: > Hello Linda, > > Last October, you sent me some good advice and a link to an article > regarding Fescue for my well shaded (Ariz. Ash) lawn. I live in > North-Central Phx. We did a mix of rye and Fescue last fall and so > far, it still looks pretty good, although there are some dead areas. > (I don't think they are increasing.) But we are far ahead of previous > years's summer lawns. > > My question is: should I overseed with Fescue and rye again this > fall, assuming that my lawn will make it through the summer? (I hope!) > > Thanks, > > Barbara > --------------070202050105070505020000 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Don't know and am therefor forwarding to the arid_gardener server to see if someone else can be of assistance.

Linda

Barbara Marcellus wrote:
Hello Linda,
Last October, you sent me some good advice and a link to an article regarding Fescue for my well shaded (Ariz. Ash) lawn.  I live in North-Central Phx.  We did a mix of rye and Fescue last fall   and so far, it still looks pretty good, although there are some dead areas. (I don't think they are increasing.)  But we are far ahead of previous years's summer lawns. 
My question is:  should I overseed with Fescue and rye again this fall, assuming that my lawn will make it through the summer?  (I hope!) 
Thanks,
Barbara

--------------070202050105070505020000-- From ClaireASP@aol.com Sun Jun 9 20:12:56 2002 From: ClaireASP@aol.com (ClaireASP@aol.com) Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 13:12:56 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206092012.g59KCuG07871@Ag.arizona.edu> I have two questions. I have been given three different varieties of Ceanothus in the past, from friends that live in California. And all three of them have died. Am I doing something wrong, or are these plants not suitable for my area. I live in north Scottsdale. The latest one that I was given was called "Cliff Schmidt". I planted it on a south facing wall, but it is in shade by late afternoon. Second question is about bulb-type plants in pots; for instance, Bleeding Heart or Yellow Wax Bells.After they have died off for the season, should I continue to give them water, or let them dry out? If so, when should I resume watering them for their next years bloom? Thanks for your time and help. From rodmcq6@highstream.net Sun Jun 9 21:22:16 2002 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (rodmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 14:22:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rye and fescue in the low desert Message-ID: <002201c20ffc$520f39e0$d42c0a3f@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0019_01C20FC1.0E2C8A60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi Linda, Hope that you had a great vacation. Here is an answer for Barbara = Marcellus. Rod It is very unlikely that the rye and fescue will last through the = summer. I have a yard with lots of shade and the perenial rye will last = into July, but it requires lots of water. The fescue won't do much = better unless it is tall fescue which can go through the summer if = shaded. Yes the rye will have to be reseeded in October.=20 In order for the tall fescue to be sucessful all of the bermuda must be = eliminated before seeding with the fescue. When this is done the rye is = not needed nor will you have to over seed with rye. Remember that the = fescue will require more water. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener - ----Original Message----- From: Linda Guy To: Barbara Marcellus Cc: Arid_gardener Date: Saturday, June 08, 2002 4:51 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Don't know and am therefor forwarding to the arid_gardener server to = see if someone else can be of assistance. Linda Barbara Marcellus wrote: Hello Linda, Last October, you sent me some good advice and a link to an article = regarding Fescue for my well shaded (Ariz. Ash) lawn. I live in = North-Central Phx. We did a mix of rye and Fescue last fall and so = far, it still looks pretty good, although there are some dead areas. (I = don't think they are increasing.) But we are far ahead of previous = years's summer lawns. =20 My question is: should I overseed with Fescue and rye again this = fall, assuming that my lawn will make it through the summer? (I hope!) = Thanks, Barbara ------=_NextPart_000_0019_01C20FC1.0E2C8A60 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi Linda,
 
Hope that you had a great vacation. Here is an = answer for=20 Barbara Marcellus.   Rod
 
It is very unlikely that the rye and fescue will = last through=20 the summer. I have a yard with lots of shade and the perenial rye will = last into=20 July, but it requires lots of water. The fescue won't do much better = unless it=20 is tall fescue which can go through the summer if shaded. Yes = the rye=20 will have to be reseeded in October.
In order for the tall fescue to be sucessful = all of=20 the bermuda must be eliminated before seeding with the fescue. When = this is=20 done the rye is not needed nor will you have to over seed with = rye. =20 Remember that the fescue will require more water.
 
Good luck.
 
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
 
 - ----Original=20 Message-----
From: Linda Guy <lindaguy@qwest.net>
To: Barbara Marcellus <b.marcel@cox.net>
Cc: Arid_gardener <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Date:=20 Saturday, June 08, 2002 4:51 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener]=20 Re:

Don't=20 know and am therefor forwarding to the arid_gardener server to see if = someone=20 else can be of assistance.

Linda

Barbara Marcellus = wrote:
Hello Linda,
Last October, you sent me = some good=20 advice and a link to an article regarding Fescue for my well = shaded=20 (Ariz. Ash) lawn.  I live in North-Central Phx.  We did a = mix=20 of rye and Fescue last fall   and so far, it = still looks=20 pretty good, although there are some dead areas. (I don't think they = are increasing.)  But we are far ahead of previous years's = summer=20 lawns. 
My question is:  = should I=20 overseed with Fescue and rye again this fall, assuming that my lawn = will=20 make it through the summer?  (I hope!) 
Thanks,
Barbara

= ------=_NextPart_000_0019_01C20FC1.0E2C8A60-- From rodmcq6@highstream.net Sun Jun 9 21:42:12 2002 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (rodmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 14:42:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Orange tree life span Message-ID: <003301c20ffe$9ca89940$d42c0a3f@ibmbna6040> In a residential setting 30 to 35 years is considered old for orange trees but comercially they do last longer. The leaf drop you are experiencing can be due to temperature fluctuations or to inadequate irrigation. Check out this site for info on proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: linjimw@msn.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Saturday, June 08, 2002 3:18 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >What is the average life span of an orange tree? My orange trees seem to be loosing their leaves. Is this a common occurrence for this time of year? > >Thank you. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From gdtym@msn.com Sun Jun 9 21:41:30 2002 From: gdtym@msn.com (gdtym@msn.com) Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 14:41:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206092141.g59LfUG15135@Ag.arizona.edu> Do you have any illustrations showing how to prune/shape a blue Palo Verde tree? Ours has been in the ground for a year now (originally a 15 gal.size) and it really needs to be shaped up. I know that summer is not the time to prune and plan to do it in the fall. None of the gardening manuals I have show how they are supposed to look. From galegass2000@yahoo.com Mon Jun 10 03:51:54 2002 From: galegass2000@yahoo.com (galegass2000@yahoo.com) Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 20:51:54 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206100351.g5A3psG17809@Ag.arizona.edu> My bermuda lawn doesn't seem to be healthy this year. There are brown areas covering at least 1/2 the lawn, and where it is brown, the birds have dug holes (1 to 1 1/2 inch deep and wide). I have wondered if I need to water more, but dont know if birds are getting worms or what. WE are watering at the same level as other years when the lawn has been fine. Any good ideas? WE have a tortoise so can't use pesticides. Thanks. From bsespinoza@earthlink.net Mon Jun 10 06:01:18 2002 From: bsespinoza@earthlink.net (bsespinoza@earthlink.net) Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 23:01:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206100601.g5A61IG28909@Ag.arizona.edu> WE recently bought a house that we are told has just had 2500 SF of new sod put in. We are told it is " golf course grade bermuda overseeded with rye" -- it looked beautiful when we moved in and we have been watering it 3x / wk for 15 min. it is now dying in patches and turning yellow in certain areas. Are we over watering ? or underwatering ? how can we determine how much water in inches is being delivered by the sprinkler heads ? any info would be greatly appreciated. Stephanie Espinoza From rodmcq6@highstream.net Mon Jun 10 21:30:19 2002 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (rodmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 14:30:19 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Watering turf Message-ID: <001001c210c6$1c4d6b40$8131db43@ibmbna6040> Stephanie, You are under watering your grass. If you live in the Phoenix area and take the Republic or the Tribune newspaper, on the weather page you will find a daily listing of the amount of water to apply to your grass if watered three days ago. Todays listing showed 0.74 inches or 3/4 inch. Save several tuna fish cans and set them out on several places on your lawn before yoiu water, after watering average the depth and go from there.A quick way of determining if you are applying enough water is to insert a screwdriver with a 6 inch blade into the ground where the dry spots are after you water, if the screwdriver doesn't go easily into the ground for 6 inches than you need to apply more water. Check out this site for info on turf irrigation: http://www.ci.phoenix.az.us/WATER/lawnguid.html#LONG Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Sunday, June 09, 2002 11:02 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >WE recently bought a house that we are told has just had 2500 SF of new sod put in. We are told it is " golf course grade bermuda overseeded with rye" -- it looked beautiful when we moved in and we have been watering it 3x / wk for 15 min. it is now dying in patches and turning yellow in certain areas. Are we over watering ? or underwatering ? how can we determine how much water in inches is being delivered by the sprinkler heads ? any info would be greatly appreciated. > >Stephanie Espinoza > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Mon Jun 10 21:29:06 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 14:29:06 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] brown spots in grass In-Reply-To: <200206100601.g5A61IG28909@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20020610212906.40918.qmail@web14904.mail.yahoo.com> Stephanie, To determine how much water your giving your lawn is easy. First feed your husband lots of tuna or cat food and save the tins(lots of them). Spread them all over the lawn and run your system for about 15-20 minutes. then measure the depth of the water in ALL the cans. They should be all about the same.If the ones in the dry areas have less, try cleaning the nozzles on the sprinkler heads for those areas.Your lawn should be watered for 20-30 minutes twice a week. --- bsespinoza@earthlink.net wrote: > WE recently bought a house that we are told has just > had 2500 SF of new sod put in. We are told it is " > golf course grade bermuda overseeded with rye" -- it > looked beautiful when we moved in and we have been > watering it 3x / wk for 15 min. it is now dying in > patches and turning yellow in certain areas. Are we > over watering ? or underwatering ? how can we > determine how much water in inches is being > delivered by the sprinkler heads ? any info would > be greatly appreciated. > > Stephanie Espinoza > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com From rodmcq6@highstream.net Mon Jun 10 21:50:41 2002 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (rodmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 14:50:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tree pruning Message-ID: <001f01c210c8$f315f000$8131db43@ibmbna6040> You will be very wise to not do any pruning on your one year old Palo Verde except to remove dead, broken, damaged or crossing branches until the tree is at least two years old. Each time you remove a leaf from a tree you are removing food manufacturing capacity. It is especially important to leave all branches on the trunk for the first two years to help the tree gain girth and strength. Sumertime is the time to prune the desert adapted trees. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on Arborculture, section on pruning which will give you some useful info at:. http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist -----Original Message----- From: gdtym@msn.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Sunday, June 09, 2002 2:43 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Do you have any illustrations showing how to prune/shape a blue Palo Verde tree? Ours has been in the ground for a year now (originally a 15 gal.size) and it really needs to be shaped up. I know that summer is not the time to prune and plan to do it in the fall. None of the gardening manuals I have show how they are supposed to look. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From njbrown9@msn.com Mon Jun 10 23:36:51 2002 From: njbrown9@msn.com (njbrown9@msn.com) Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 16:36:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206102336.g5ANapG13978@Ag.arizona.edu> My 8 year old Acacia tree was looking water stressed and whenever I tried to deep water, the ground turned to mud. I bought a root feeder wand from Home Depot and after punching it through to about 3 feet in depth, I can put a hose in there with the water on full blast and it never gets full, even after 3 hours. It is like the water is going into a cave. I don't think I went through the sewer line as it is about 5 feet down at that point and this is not in line with the sewer. I cannot hear the sewer when flushing the toilets. We replaced the sewer line about a year ago. This was yesterday. The tree doesn't look any better. I want to know where all that water is going and what I can do to get some to the tree. The water is not coming out anywhere that I can see. The ground doesn't feel any wetter. Please advise. From jdrox@cox.net Mon Jun 10 23:56:39 2002 From: jdrox@cox.net (jdrox@cox.net) Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 16:56:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206102356.g5ANudG17476@Ag.arizona.edu> The following is a list of plants that I'd like to install along a fence line that is shaded by 3 huge evergreen elm. Although the area is densely shaded most of the day, it gets direct sun from about 3:30-6:30pm in the summer. Will these plants tollerate that? Choisya “Goldfingers”, Camellia Japonica, Rhododendron “Hinodegiri”, Anemone x hybirda, Digitalis x menonensis, Helleborus argutifolius (H. corsicus), Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’, Liriope muscari Variegata’, Heuchera ‘Palace Purple’, Campanula poscharskyana, Impatiens Wallweriana, Allium caeruleum (A azureum) Thank you, Roxanne From stevendrew@mindspring.com Tue Jun 11 03:14:11 2002 From: stevendrew@mindspring.com (Steven C. Drew) Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 20:14:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] re;plants along fence line Message-ID: <001201c210f6$10506a60$651b8144@global> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C210BB.626BDCC0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Roxanne, If you do plant these species and they are successful, please let us = know. Sounds like Guiness Book of World Records to me. But in my = experience it's all about particular micro-climates when it comes to = growing exotic plants and I have several that are doing well with = intermittent afternoon sun but they requiure lots of extra water and = attention. Be sure to use lots of organic matter if you attempt this. Perhaps consider some Xeric type plants that can tolerate some shade and = require less water and still produce nice foliage and flowers. Good luck, Steve Drew ------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C210BB.626BDCC0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Roxanne,
 
If you do plant these species and they = are=20 successful, please let us know. Sounds like Guiness Book of World = Records to me.=20 But in my experience it's all about particular micro-climates when it = comes to=20 growing exotic plants and I have several that are doing well with = intermittent=20 afternoon sun but they requiure lots of extra water and attention. Be = sure to=20 use lots of organic matter if you attempt this.
 
Perhaps consider some Xeric type plants = that can=20 tolerate some shade and require less water and still produce nice = foliage and=20 flowers.
 
Good luck,
 
Steve Drew
------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C210BB.626BDCC0-- From deazwyby@aol.com Tue Jun 11 03:21:27 2002 From: deazwyby@aol.com (deazwyby@aol.com) Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 20:21:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206110321.g5B3LRG12451@Ag.arizona.edu> We are having a terrible time with Gophers, what could you suggest to get rid of them? Walter W. Young From stevendrew@mindspring.com Tue Jun 11 03:45:09 2002 From: stevendrew@mindspring.com (Steven C. Drew) Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 20:45:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] re:gophers Message-ID: <002801c210fa$6319d160$23468144@global> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0025_01C210BF.B5927EF0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Walter, Please describe your situation a little more. Are you in a new = subdivision with fields nearby? Or is this in an established area? What = have you tried so far? How many mounds are there each morning? Regards, Steve Drew ------=_NextPart_000_0025_01C210BF.B5927EF0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Walter,
 
Please describe your situation a little = more. Are=20 you in a new subdivision with fields nearby? Or is this in an = established area?=20 What have you tried so far? How many mounds are there each = morning?
 
Regards,
 
Steve Drew
------=_NextPart_000_0025_01C210BF.B5927EF0-- From cstephens@infinet-is.com Tue Jun 11 13:46:41 2002 From: cstephens@infinet-is.com (Charles Stephens) Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 06:46:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] brown spots in grass References: <20020610212906.40918.qmail@web14904.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <002701c2114e$7299d280$a81259d8@default> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0024_01C21113.BE99DA80 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Jack, How can you make a recommendation for watering TIME like this? Do you = know what the sprinkler heads are? Precipitation rate varies = tremendously depending on the type of heads, spacing, water pressure, = etc. Charlie Stephens Master Gardener Phoenix ----- Original Message -----=20 From: jack blake=20 To: bsespinoza@earthlink.net=20 Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Monday, June 10, 2002 2:29 PM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] brown spots in grass Stephanie, To determine how much water your giving your lawn is easy. First feed your husband lots of tuna or cat food and save the tins(lots of them). Spread them all over the lawn and run your system for about 15-20 minutes. then measure the depth of the water in ALL the cans. They should be all about the same.If the ones in the dry areas have less, try cleaning the nozzles on the sprinkler heads for those areas.Your lawn should be watered for 20-30 minutes twice a week. --- bsespinoza@earthlink.net wrote: > WE recently bought a house that we are told has just > had 2500 SF of new sod put in. We are told it is " > golf course grade bermuda overseeded with rye" -- it > looked beautiful when we moved in and we have been > watering it 3x / wk for 15 min. it is now dying in > patches and turning yellow in certain areas. Are we > over watering ? or underwatering ? how can we > determine how much water in inches is being > delivered by the sprinkler heads ? any info would > be greatly appreciated. >=20 > Stephanie Espinoza >=20 > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener ------=_NextPart_000_0024_01C21113.BE99DA80 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Jack,
 
How can you make a recommendation for = watering TIME=20 like this? Do you know what the sprinkler heads are? Precipitation rate = varies=20 tremendously depending on the type of heads, spacing, water pressure,=20 etc.
 
Charlie Stephens
Master=20 Gardener
Phoenix
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 jack=20 blake
To: bsespinoza@earthlink.net
Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu =
Sent: Monday, June 10, 2002 = 2:29 PM
Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] = brown spots=20 in grass

Stephanie, To determine how much water your = giving
your lawn=20 is easy. First feed your husband lots of
tuna or cat food and save = the=20 tins(lots of them).
Spread them all over the lawn and run your = system=20 for
about 15-20 minutes. then measure the depth of the
water in = ALL the=20 cans. They should be all about the
same.If the ones in the dry = areas have=20 less, try
cleaning the nozzles on the sprinkler heads for=20 those
areas.Your lawn should be watered for 20-30 minutes
twice = a=20 week.



--- bsespinoza@earthlink.net=20 wrote:
> WE recently bought a house that we are told has = just
>=20 had 2500 SF of new sod put in. We are told it is "
> golf course = grade=20 bermuda overseeded with rye" -- it
> looked beautiful when we = moved in=20 and we have been
> watering it 3x / wk for 15 min.  it is = now dying=20 in
> patches and turning yellow in certain areas. Are we
> = over=20 watering ? or underwatering ? how can we
> determine how much = water in=20 inches is being
> delivered by the sprinkler heads ?  any = info=20 would
> be greatly appreciated.
>
> Stephanie=20 Espinoza
>
>=20 _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener = mailing=20 list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu=
>=20 http://Ag.A= rizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener


________________= __________________________________
Do=20 You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com<= BR>_______________________________________________
Arid_gardener=20 mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu=
http://Ag.A= rizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
------=_NextPart_000_0024_01C21113.BE99DA80-- From dnfelauer@msn.com Tue Jun 11 15:07:50 2002 From: dnfelauer@msn.com (dnfelauer@msn.com) Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 08:07:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206111507.g5BF7oG25366@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a Joshua Tree, I have lived in Arizona for 3 years and know nothing about how to care for the Joshua Tree. The tree blossomed last summer, I also have several more growing at bottom of tree, Do I leave them there? The top looks like it may be getting several shoots and not sure what to do? Any help would be appreciated, Thanks From rodmcq6@highstream.net Tue Jun 11 21:20:39 2002 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (rodmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 14:20:39 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tree water disappearing Message-ID: <000201c2118e$7915df60$a12c0a3f@ibmbna6040> It sounds like you have punched a hole into some type of drain or even a gopher hole. The best thing you can do to find out where the water is going is to start digging, it will be easy digging if you follow the path of the water. Now how to water the tree, my suggestion is to place either a soaker hose completely around the tree at the drip line or to place drippers spaced about two feet apart around the tree at the drip line. You will probably have to run either one of these systems at least 8 hours in order to deep water to three feet deep. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: njbrown9@msn.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, June 10, 2002 4:39 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >My 8 year old Acacia tree was looking water stressed and whenever I tried to deep water, the ground turned to mud. I bought a root feeder wand from Home Depot and after punching it through to about 3 feet in depth, I can put a hose in there with the water on full blast and it never gets full, even after 3 hours. It is like the water is going into a cave. I don't think I went through the sewer line as it is about 5 feet down at that point and this is not in line with the sewer. I cannot hear the sewer when flushing the toilets. We replaced the sewer line about a year ago. This was yesterday. The tree doesn't look any better. I want to know where all that water is going and what I can do to get some to the tree. The water is not coming out anywhere that I can see. The ground doesn't feel any wetter. Please advise. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rmford1@mindspring.com Tue Jun 11 21:34:15 2002 From: rmford1@mindspring.com (Renea Ford) Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 14:34:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lantana camara w/ flowers Message-ID: <000201c2118f$eeb17d00$7c28b83f@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0023_01C21155.1011F5A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I just can't figure out how they do it! It simply doesn't seem possible = that they would be more attentive to their "New Gold" Lantana than I. = And yet, somehow, every office complex (and freeway!) in my community is = able to cultivate LOTS of golden yellow lantana flowers, and I am not. I purchased 10 one-gallon plants in April. Naturally, they were all in = bloom. I planted them 3 feet apart in full sun, with a southern = exposure, in a stuccoed "planter box" the length of our upper deck. I = watered them to the base of their roots on the same schedule as the = other groundcovers (every 7 days at that time). Then their flowers = matured and fell off. I deadheaded the flower stems, watered, and = fertilized with Super Bloom. Nothing but green. Having read that lantana camara do not like much water, and knowing the = planter box has only fair drainage, I got to thinking, OK, maybe they = thrive on neglect, you know, like bougainvillea. So I cut the water way = back (watering once every 14 days). Well, the planter box got very hot = (by now it's May) and as you might expect the tips of the leaves started = to turn brown and crispy. OK, not enough water. For several weeks now they've been watered every = 4 days, to the root zone, just like my other groundcovers and shrubs = which do just fine. They perked right up. No more brown. Lots of new = green leaves and a few buds. But very few flowers. I hesitate using = Super Bloom again for fear of it being too harsh for these relatively = new plants. I had envisioned this almost idyllic scenario of profuse = golden yellows mounding up and cascading over my patio, not to mention = being the envy of all my neighbors. Either thrash me with wet noodles = till I come to my senses, or help me make my dream come true! Warmly,=20 Renea ------=_NextPart_000_0023_01C21155.1011F5A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I just can't figure out how they do=20 it!  It simply doesn't seem possible that they would = be more attentive to their "New Gold" Lantana than I.  And = yet,=20 somehow, every office complex (and freeway!) in my community is = able to=20 cultivate LOTS of golden yellow lantana flowers, and I am = not.
 
I purchased 10 one-gallon plants in April.  Naturally, they = were all=20 in bloom.  I planted them 3 feet apart in full sun, with a = southern=20 exposure, in a stuccoed "planter box" the length of our upper = deck.  I=20 watered them to the base of their roots on the same schedule as the = other=20 groundcovers (every 7 days at that time).  Then their flowers = matured and=20 fell off.  I deadheaded the flower stems, watered, and fertilized = with=20 Super Bloom.  Nothing but green.
 
Having read that lantana camara do not like much water, = and=20 knowing the planter box has only fair drainage, I got to thinking, OK, = maybe=20 they thrive on neglect, you know, like bougainvillea.  So = I cut=20 the water way back (watering once every 14 days).  Well, the = planter box=20 got very hot (by now it's May) and as you might expect the tips of = the=20 leaves started to turn brown and crispy.
 
OK, not enough water.  For several weeks now they've=20 been watered every 4 days, to the root zone, just like my other=20 groundcovers and shrubs which do just fine.  They perked right = up.  No more brown.  Lots of new green leaves and a few=20 buds.  But very few flowers.  I hesitate using Super Bloom = again for=20 fear of it being too harsh for these relatively new plants.  I = had=20 envisioned this almost idyllic scenario of profuse golden = yellows=20 mounding up and cascading over my patio, not to mention being = the envy=20 of all my neighbors.  Either thrash me with wet noodles till I come = to my=20 senses, or help me make my dream come true!
 
Warmly,
Renea
------=_NextPart_000_0023_01C21155.1011F5A0-- From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Tue Jun 11 23:31:32 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 16:31:32 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] gophers In-Reply-To: <200206110321.g5B3LRG12451@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20020611233132.85927.qmail@web14909.mail.yahoo.com> There are many ways to rid yourself of gophers. There are poison pellets and gasses.There are noise makers and traps. I personally prefer traps. That way I know I got the little demon. --- deazwyby@aol.com wrote: > We are having a terrible time with Gophers, what > could you suggest to get rid of them? > > Walter W. Young > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com From imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net Wed Jun 12 02:33:26 2002 From: imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net (odm) Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 19:33:26 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Gopher Control References: <20020611233132.85927.qmail@web14909.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001501c211b9$9a4a0780$1750530c@delljor9501> --- deazwyby@aol.com wrote: > We are having a terrible time with Gophers, what > could you suggest to get rid of them? > > Walter W. Young There are a number of ways to control pocket gophers including trapping, toxicants, fumigants, cultural, repellants, and exclusion. Trapping is prretty effective if you kmow where and how to set the trap. But in my experience the control is only temporary - more will come. The Prescott officce of the Yavapai County Cooperative Extension has a good online publication at http://ag.arizona.edu/yavapai/anr/hort/gopher/gophercontrol.html and there are also some good links to other sites at http://ag.arizona.edu/yavapai/anr/hort/gopher/gopherlinks.html Olin From RkBetu@aol.com Wed Jun 12 02:37:30 2002 From: RkBetu@aol.com (RkBetu@aol.com) Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 22:37:30 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] gophers Message-ID: <14c.f3045b5.2a380dea@aol.com> Having lived in "gopher metropolis" for a few years, I can tell you that you can be rid of them but it's not necessarily easy. If you use gas fuses, you have to move quick to cover the hole - that stuff really stinks! I use poison pellets with pretty good success, but you have to keep it up. After losing several young trees, not to mention a variety of other plants, I now plant all new foliage in chicken wire (digging the hole larger and lining it - sides and bottom - with chicken wire). It seems to be working. Cats are about the greatest solution. There used to be a lot of cats in my neighborhood and here, and for over a decade, I never saw a gopher. Then owls moved in, along with braver coyotes, so now there are very few cats and mucho gophers. Good luck! Rocki in Wittmann From shabbathai713@aol.com Wed Jun 12 05:28:40 2002 From: shabbathai713@aol.com (shabbathai713@aol.com) Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 22:28:40 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206120528.g5C5Sex18544@Ag.arizona.edu> My somewhat new lemon tree that I have potted in a apx 10 gal container started to have new growth and then recently not only did the new groth slow/stop but the leaves seem to be falling off... it's almost bare!! It's watered sufficiently (I think) and I fertilize w/citrus fertilizer every other month. Why are all the leaves falling off?! From shabbathai713@aol.com Wed Jun 12 05:34:04 2002 From: shabbathai713@aol.com (shabbathai713@aol.com) Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 22:34:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206120534.g5C5Y4x19650@Ag.arizona.edu> I live in an apartment complex that is overwatered and practically swampy. Also, almost everyone that lives here has a dog. Because of these two factors I have a problem with flys/gnats/mosquitos... they are everywere. I am wondering what kind of damage they could cause to my plants and if anyone has any suggestions for natural insect repelents? From Rod McKusick" Newly planted citrus trees should not be fertilized at all until they have been in the ground or pot for at least one year and then only apply 4 tablespoons of fertilizer three times a year when in the ground, apply 1/2 this amount for a potted tree. I suspect that inadequate water is causing the leaf drop. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: shabbathai713@aol.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Tuesday, June 11, 2002 10:29 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >My somewhat new lemon tree that I have potted in a apx 10 gal container started to have new growth and then recently not only did the new groth slow/stop but the leaves seem to be falling off... it's almost bare!! It's watered sufficiently (I think) and I fertilize w/citrus fertilizer every other month. Why are all the leaves falling off?! > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Wed Jun 12 23:45:22 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 16:45:22 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200206120528.g5C5Sex18544@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20020612234523.94711.qmail@web14910.mail.yahoo.com> First of all, I don't beleave trees should be in pots. But as it is , I have to go with Rods answer. Be sure to water till its running out the bottom of the pot. Remember, in this heat you will need to water frequently as long as its in a pot. --- shabbathai713@aol.com wrote: > My somewhat new lemon tree that I have potted in a > apx 10 gal container started to have new growth and > then recently not only did the new groth slow/stop > but the leaves seem to be falling off... it's almost > bare!! It's watered sufficiently (I think) and I > fertilize w/citrus fertilizer every other month. > Why are all the leaves falling off?! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com From TotheV@aol.com Wed Jun 12 23:52:35 2002 From: TotheV@aol.com (by way of Lucy Bradley ) Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 16:52:35 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Black Widow Spiders Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020612165217.024a5e78@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_31147137==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Hi, I hope that you can help. I was checking around the internet for information on Black Widow Spiders. I came across an article from the University of Arizona and clicked on the link to your e-mail. I can't seem to find an answer to my question. I saw a Black Widow Spider in my house last evening and tried to get it in a cup to take it outside. Of course it was fast and I was too slow. It took off under the stereo cabinet. This morning I tried looking all around the area where the web was and it's not there. By checking on the internet, I found out that the female (which this was) will stay close to her web. The web got pulled away when I tried to push the cup down over her so it is not really a web anymore. My question is can you direct me on where this spider may have possibly gone? Do they try to go back to where the original web was, or could this spider be anywhere in my house? That is what I am having trouble finding out. I have a 2-year old daughter who has a big toy box right next to the stereo (where I originally found the spider) and I am concerned that it may come back and hang out inside her toy box. Anyway, if you can help me at all I'd really appreciate it. Thanks for your time. Valerie Neal (in Phoenix) --=====================_31147137==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Hi,

I hope that you can help.  I was checking around the internet for information on Black Widow Spiders.  I came across an article from the University of Arizona and clicked on the link to your e-mail.  I can't seem to find an answer to my question.

I saw a Black Widow Spider in my house last evening and tried to get it in a cup to take it outside.  Of course it was fast and I was too slow.  It took off under the stereo cabinet.  This morning I tried looking all around the area  where the web was and it's not there.  By checking on the internet, I found out that the female (which this was) will stay close to her web.  The web got pulled away when I tried to push the cup down over her so it is not really a web anymore.  My question is can you direct me on where this spider may have possibly gone?  Do they try to go back to where the original web was, or could this spider be anywhere in my house?  That is what I am having trouble finding out.  I have a 2-year old daughter who has a big toy box right next to the stereo (where I originally found the spider) and I am concerned that it may come back and hang out inside her toy box.

Anyway, if you can help me at all I'd really appreciate it.  Thanks for your time.

Valerie Neal (in Phoenix) --=====================_31147137==_.ALT-- From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Thu Jun 13 00:08:32 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 17:08:32 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Still more did you know???? Message-ID: <20020613000832.76795.qmail@web14906.mail.yahoo.com> A horse can look forward with one eye and back with the other. So?? My wife can do that. ^^^ Jellyfish sometimes evaporate. ^^^ Dolphins have bigger brains than we do. In my case, my wife says so do ants. ^^^ The giant tortoise on Galapagos Islands lives longer than any other animal.they can live to be 200 yrs old and weigh up to 600 lbs. ^^^ Rabbits talk to each other by thumping their feet. ^^^ The oldest known veggie is the pea, used by China before 2000B.C. ^^^ Llamas have extremely bad breath. ^^^ Beavers can swim underwater for about 15 minutes. ^^^ This one will cost you a buck. In the 1700s, trappers could sell the deerskin of a buck for a dollar- hence, the term "buck". ^^^ A cucumber is 96% water. ^^^ Some grasshoppers and crickets have hearing organs on their legs. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com From GLLLYNN@AOL.COM Thu Jun 13 00:44:22 2002 From: GLLLYNN@AOL.COM (GLLLYNN@AOL.COM) Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 17:44:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206130044.g5D0iMx12989@Ag.arizona.edu> HOW DO YOU GET RID OF PEARL SCALE? From stop02@cox.net Thu Jun 13 11:05:23 2002 From: stop02@cox.net (stop02@cox.net) Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 04:05:23 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206131105.g5DB5Nx20957@Ag.arizona.edu> I am looking for local research regarding the building of a greenhouse in Phx. i rrealize that we need a slightly different approach since we have such intense heat. Any referral or data would be appreciated. I thought I remembered an ASU prefessor had contributed some research to the community in that regard. Thany you, Ray 602-789-7400 From stop02@cox.net Thu Jun 13 11:06:34 2002 From: stop02@cox.net (stop02@cox.net) Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 04:06:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206131106.g5DB6Yx21027@Ag.arizona.edu> I am looking for local research regarding the building of a greenhouse in Phx. I realize that we need a slightly different approach since we have such intense heat. Any referral or data would be appreciated. I thought I remembered an ASU prefessor had contributed some research to the community in that regard. Thank you, Ray 602-789-7400 From stevendrew@mindspring.com Thu Jun 13 16:32:01 2002 From: stevendrew@mindspring.com (Steven C. Drew) Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 09:32:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Pearl Scale References: <200206130044.g5D0iMx12989@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <001401c212f7$d9b9f4e0$42d58044@global> Fact Sheet MC 45 "Pearl Scale Treatment in Bermuda" available at the Cooperative Extension Office states that there is no chemical treatment available that will effectively control this insect. The recommendation is to lower the pH of the soil which will lower the infestation. Sorry for the bad news. Steve Drew ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2002 5:44 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > HOW DO YOU GET RID OF PEARL SCALE? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From stevendrew@mindspring.com Thu Jun 13 16:43:08 2002 From: stevendrew@mindspring.com (Steven C. Drew) Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 09:43:08 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Black Widow Spiders References: <5.1.0.14.2.20020612165217.024a5e78@ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <002101c212f9$6783e910$42d58044@global> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01C212BE.B9B7EC80 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable A non-chemical method you might try is a really good vacuum cleaner with = an attachment that can get inside small areas. You might be able to = creatively rig up something that is flexible and smallenough to probe in = places that you can't normally get to. Another option is to reverse the air flow and try to blow the spider out = of the area. Don't loose too much sleep over this though. Black Widow Spiders like to = live in out of the way places and will usually run rather than attack. A good rule of thumb in the desert is to never put your hands or feet = anywhere that you can't see them.=20 Hope you get it! Steve Drew ----- Original Message -----=20 From: by way of Lucy Bradley =20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2002 4:52 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Black Widow Spiders Hi,=20 I hope that you can help. I was checking around the internet for = information on Black Widow Spiders. I came across an article from the = University of Arizona and clicked on the link to your e-mail. I can't = seem to find an answer to my question.=20 I saw a Black Widow Spider in my house last evening and tried to get = it in a cup to take it outside. Of course it was fast and I was too = slow. It took off under the stereo cabinet. This morning I tried = looking all around the area where the web was and it's not there. By = checking on the internet, I found out that the female (which this was) = will stay close to her web. The web got pulled away when I tried to = push the cup down over her so it is not really a web anymore. My = question is can you direct me on where this spider may have possibly = gone? Do they try to go back to where the original web was, or could = this spider be anywhere in my house? That is what I am having trouble = finding out. I have a 2-year old daughter who has a big toy box right = next to the stereo (where I originally found the spider) and I am = concerned that it may come back and hang out inside her toy box.=20 Anyway, if you can help me at all I'd really appreciate it. Thanks = for your time.=20 Valerie Neal (in Phoenix) ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01C212BE.B9B7EC80 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
A non-chemical method you might try is = a really=20 good vacuum cleaner with an attachment that can get inside small areas. = You=20 might be able to creatively rig up something that is flexible and = smallenough to=20 probe in places that you can't normally get to.
 
Another option is to reverse the air = flow and try=20 to blow the spider out of the area.
 
Don't loose too much sleep over this = though. Black=20 Widow Spiders like to live in out of the way places and will usually run = rather=20 than attack.
 
A good rule of thumb in the desert is = to never put=20 your hands or feet anywhere that you can't see them.
 
Hope you get it!
 
Steve Drew
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 ">by = way of Lucy=20 Bradley <bradleyl@ag.arizona.edu>
Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2002 = 4:52=20 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Black = Widow=20 Spiders

Hi,

I hope that you = can=20 help.  I was checking around the internet for information on = Black Widow=20 Spiders.  I came across an article from the University of Arizona = and=20 clicked on the link to your e-mail.  I can't seem to find an = answer to my=20 question.

I saw a Black Widow Spider in my house last evening = and=20 tried to get it in a cup to take it outside.  Of course it was = fast and I=20 was too slow.  It took off under the stereo cabinet.  This = morning I=20 tried looking all around the area  where the web was and it's not = there.  By checking on the internet, I found out that the female = (which=20 this was) will stay close to her web.  The web got pulled away = when I=20 tried to push the cup down over her so it is not really a web = anymore. =20 My question is can you direct me on where this spider may have = possibly=20 gone?  Do they try to go back to where the original web was, or = could=20 this spider be anywhere in my house?  That is what I am having = trouble=20 finding out.  I have a 2-year old daughter who has a big toy box = right=20 next to the stereo (where I originally found the spider) and I am = concerned=20 that it may come back and hang out inside her toy box.

Anyway, = if you=20 can help me at all I'd really appreciate it.  Thanks for your = time.=20

Valerie Neal (in Phoenix)=20 ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01C212BE.B9B7EC80-- From stevendrew@mindspring.com Thu Jun 13 16:49:28 2002 From: stevendrew@mindspring.com (Steven C. Drew) Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 09:49:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lantana camara w/ flowers References: <000201c2118f$eeb17d00$7c28b83f@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <003401c212fa$49379aa0$42d58044@global> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0031_01C212BF.9BC5A4F0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I figured that I'd add my two cents to your lantana anxiety. As long as they don't cook from the heat of the planter, or freeze to = hard next winter, or get eaten alive by white flies, I predeict that = next year at this time they will look absolutely gorgeous. I planted a dozen plants a year ago and they never looked real good = until this year. The tricky part will be keeping the soil moisure just right. It would be = better if you could improve the drainage, so that you could flush it = good once in a while to leach salts. Good luck, Steve Drew ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Renea Ford=20 To: Master Gardener=20 Sent: Tuesday, June 11, 2002 2:34 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lantana camara w/ flowers I just can't figure out how they do it! It simply doesn't seem = possible that they would be more attentive to their "New Gold" Lantana = than I. And yet, somehow, every office complex (and freeway!) in my = community is able to cultivate LOTS of golden yellow lantana flowers, = and I am not. I purchased 10 one-gallon plants in April. Naturally, they were all = in bloom. I planted them 3 feet apart in full sun, with a southern = exposure, in a stuccoed "planter box" the length of our upper deck. I = watered them to the base of their roots on the same schedule as the = other groundcovers (every 7 days at that time). Then their flowers = matured and fell off. I deadheaded the flower stems, watered, and = fertilized with Super Bloom. Nothing but green. Having read that lantana camara do not like much water, and knowing = the planter box has only fair drainage, I got to thinking, OK, maybe = they thrive on neglect, you know, like bougainvillea. So I cut the = water way back (watering once every 14 days). Well, the planter box got = very hot (by now it's May) and as you might expect the tips of the = leaves started to turn brown and crispy. OK, not enough water. For several weeks now they've been watered = every 4 days, to the root zone, just like my other groundcovers and = shrubs which do just fine. They perked right up. No more brown. Lots = of new green leaves and a few buds. But very few flowers. I hesitate = using Super Bloom again for fear of it being too harsh for these = relatively new plants. I had envisioned this almost idyllic scenario of = profuse golden yellows mounding up and cascading over my patio, not to = mention being the envy of all my neighbors. Either thrash me with wet = noodles till I come to my senses, or help me make my dream come true! Warmly,=20 Renea ------=_NextPart_000_0031_01C212BF.9BC5A4F0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I figured that I'd add my two cents to = your lantana=20 anxiety.
 
As long as they don't cook from the = heat of the=20 planter, or freeze to hard next winter, or get eaten alive by white = flies, I=20 predeict that next year at this time they will look absolutely=20 gorgeous.
 
I planted a dozen plants a year ago and = they never=20 looked real good until this year.
 
The tricky part will be keeping the = soil moisure=20 just right. It would be better if you could improve the drainage, so = that you=20 could flush it good once in a while to leach salts.
 
Good luck,
 
Steve Drew
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Renea=20 Ford
Sent: Tuesday, June 11, 2002 = 2:34=20 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Lantana camara=20 w/ flowers

I just can't figure out how they do=20 it!  It simply doesn't seem possible that they = would=20 be more attentive to their "New Gold" Lantana than I.  And = yet,=20 somehow, every office complex (and freeway!) in my community is = able to=20 cultivate LOTS of golden yellow lantana flowers, and I am = not.
 
I purchased 10 one-gallon plants in April.  Naturally, they = were all=20 in bloom.  I planted them 3 feet apart in full sun, with a = southern=20 exposure, in a stuccoed "planter box" the length of our upper = deck.  I=20 watered them to the base of their roots on the same schedule as the = other=20 groundcovers (every 7 days at that time).  Then their flowers = matured and=20 fell off.  I deadheaded the flower stems, watered, and fertilized = with=20 Super Bloom.  Nothing but green.
 
Having read that lantana camara do not like much water, = and=20 knowing the planter box has only fair drainage, I got to thinking, OK, = maybe=20 they thrive on neglect, you know, like = bougainvillea.  So I cut=20 the water way back (watering once every 14 days).  Well, the = planter box=20 got very hot (by now it's May) and as you might expect the tips = of the=20 leaves started to turn brown and crispy.
 
OK, not enough water.  For several weeks now they've=20 been watered every 4 days, to the root zone, just like my other=20 groundcovers and shrubs which do just fine.  They perked = right=20 up.  No more brown.  Lots of new green leaves and a few = buds.  But very few flowers.  I hesitate using Super Bloom = again for=20 fear of it being too harsh for these relatively new = plants.  I had=20 envisioned this almost idyllic scenario of profuse golden = yellows=20 mounding up and cascading over my patio, not to = mention being the=20 envy of all my neighbors.  Either thrash me with wet noodles till = I come=20 to my senses, or help me make my dream come true!
 
Warmly,
Renea
------=_NextPart_000_0031_01C212BF.9BC5A4F0-- From stevendrew@mindspring.com Thu Jun 13 17:08:21 2002 From: stevendrew@mindspring.com (Steven C. Drew) Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 10:08:21 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200206110321.g5B3LRG12451@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <004301c212fc$ececddc0$42d58044@global> Here is how I got rid of my Gophers: I run water down into the tunnels for as long as it takes to get water to come out the other end or somewhere else. Then I collapse the tunnels. Often, the tunnels are located in a poorly compacted trench that has sprinkler pipe in it. Easy digging for the critters. This flooding and collapsing of tunnels generally ticks of the gopher and isolates 'em so that they have to dig some new mounds. So the next morning I repeat the process, and continue until the gopher crawls out soaking wet with his hands held high in air. A good dog can speed up the process. I had a golden retreiver years ago that helped me locate them, and recently had a Dauschund that wouldn't leave the area until she got the critter. Now if you live anywhere near the open desert or fields that are infested with gophers you are just plain out of luck because they are numerous and resourceful and have a better freeway system that we've got. Years ago when I was a Golf Course Superintendent in Queen Creek, I had a guy that could trap as many as 8 or 9 gophers every night and it never even made a dent in the population. Traps set at night with the tunnel hole open will often get the critters as they try to plug the hole. We spent hours running the exhaust of a tractor down holes too but we never know how effective that was. Hope you win this battle! Steve Drew ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, June 10, 2002 8:21 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > We are having a terrible time with Gophers, what could you suggest to get rid of them? > > Walter W. Young > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From Barbara@customscientific.com Thu Jun 13 22:16:00 2002 From: Barbara@customscientific.com (Barbara Marcus) Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 15:16:00 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] worms Message-ID: <003f01c21327$e7235560$a6213941@doitnow.com> Hi, After my master gardening class, I purchased a worm composting bin. I have the bin outside under a tree. I've noticed that I now have a lot of white looking worms. I still have some little red ones but these white grubs are fat. Do they belong in my bin? They really liked the mashed potatoes I put in the bin. Thanks in advance , Barbara From KenH225@aol.com Thu Jun 13 23:14:24 2002 From: KenH225@aol.com (KenH225@aol.com) Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 16:14:24 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206132314.g5DNENx16986@Ag.arizona.edu> What are the watering requirements for Brazilian pepper trees, hibiscus, palo verde trees, and bermuda grass during the summer? From kgpauley@cox.net Fri Jun 14 01:55:06 2002 From: kgpauley@cox.net (kgpauley@cox.net) Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 18:55:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206140155.g5E1t6x09942@Ag.arizona.edu> I have six different varieties of tomatoes in a raised garden. Some of the tomatoes appear to have light brown to black scar tissue forming on the bottom of the fruit. The fruit ripens and is edible on top, but very unsightly. Is this common? Is there some sort of treatment? They receive full sun. Is it a burn or possibly a water problem? From imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net Fri Jun 14 13:15:32 2002 From: imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net (odm) Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 06:15:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200206140155.g5E1t6x09942@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000601c213a5$9d6d6900$1851530c@delljor9501> Probably due to Blossom End Rot which is thought to be due to the inability of the plant to utilize calcium - usually due to irregular watering and not necessarily due to a lack of calcium in the soil. It's a common problem here in the low desert because of high evaporation rates due to high heat and low humidity. Manage the problem by applying gypsum (calcium sulfate) to the soil, improve water management through regular deep watering, use a mulch to reduce evaporation, and space tomatoes adequately to avoid water stress See also: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/cultural/blsm-rot.htm Olin ----- Original Message -----From: > I have six different varieties of tomatoes in a raised garden. Some of the tomatoes appear to have light brown to black scar tissue forming on the bottom of the fruit. The fruit ripens and is edible on top, but very unsightly. Is this common? Is there some sort of treatment? They receive full sun. Is it a burn or possibly a water problem? From watsontl@mindspring.com Fri Jun 14 15:48:15 2002 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 08:48:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200206140155.g5E1t6x09942@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <003901c213ba$e6a7da00$5368b83f@oemcomputer> It's a watering problem, sort of. The problem is called blossom end rot and is caused by a shortage of calcium. A shortage can mean the mineral is absent, or that the plant cannot take it up through its roots. Since the soil and water in our region are seldom short on calcium, the cause of the problem may be irregular water supply. You may be giving the plants enough water to be otherwise health (which they must be, or there would be no fruit) but the soil might be drying out too much between waterings, which would be rough on the roots. (You can also cause this problem by overwatering and depriving roots of oxygen, but lets face it, in our climate underwatering is far more likely.) I get around this by making sure the soil is amended with plenty of organic material which, among other benefits, retains water, and by covering the surface of the bed with a thick (about 3") layer of mulch. I use straw, but shredded paper will do the trick. The mulch slows evaporation from the soil, keeping the soil moist between waterings. I have not seen blossom end rot on my tomatoes since I started using mulch. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2002 6:55 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I have six different varieties of tomatoes in a raised garden. Some of the tomatoes appear to have light brown to black scar tissue forming on the bottom of the fruit. The fruit ripens and is edible on top, but very unsightly. Is this common? Is there some sort of treatment? They receive full sun. Is it a burn or possibly a water problem? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From Rod McKusick" The following sites will answer your questions about how, when and how much to water: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://www.amwua.org/xscp-wateringschedules.htm Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ----Original Message----- From: KenH225@aol.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Thursday, June 13, 2002 4:15 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >What are the watering requirements for Brazilian pepper trees, hibiscus, palo verde trees, and bermuda grass during the summer? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From dcheren@cox.net Fri Jun 14 18:29:26 2002 From: dcheren@cox.net (dcheren@cox.net) Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 11:29:26 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206141829.g5EITQx12615@Ag.arizona.edu> during what months should trees be deep watered From yarrow@cgmailbox.com Fri Jun 14 18:47:41 2002 From: yarrow@cgmailbox.com (White O'Mornin') Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 11:47:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Black Widow Spiders References: <5.1.0.14.2.20020612165217.024a5e78@ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <005001c213d3$f8e85c80$a857fecf@robertde> Hi Valerie, I certainly understand your concern over having a widow in the toy box area, having small babes of my own also..... if it were me, and it is not... yet, I'd make plans for a day away from home and bug bomb the house. jmho! Good luck to you and I hope you find a solution. ~R. DeBorde~ Pure Bred, Great Pyrenees Puppies, For Sale. Have had first shots and are presently being trained and raised by their, seasoned livestock guardian parents. $300. Cash only, firm! Email for more information yarrow@cgmailbox.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "by way of Lucy Bradley " To: Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2002 4:52 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Black Widow Spiders > Hi, > > I hope that you can help. I was checking around the internet for > information on Black Widow Spiders. I came across an article from the > University of Arizona and clicked on the link to your e-mail. I can't seem > to find an answer to my question. > > I saw a Black Widow Spider in my house last evening and tried to get it in > a cup to take it outside. Of course it was fast and I was too slow. It > took off under the stereo cabinet. This morning I tried looking all around > the area where the web was and it's not there. By checking on the > internet, I found out that the female (which this was) will stay close to > her web. The web got pulled away when I tried to push the cup down over > her so it is not really a web anymore. My question is can you direct me on > where this spider may have possibly gone? Do they try to go back to where > the original web was, or could this spider be anywhere in my house? That > is what I am having trouble finding out. I have a 2-year old daughter who > has a big toy box right next to the stereo (where I originally found the > spider) and I am concerned that it may come back and hang out inside her > toy box. > > Anyway, if you can help me at all I'd really appreciate it. Thanks for > your time. > > Valerie Neal (in Phoenix) From sjbass@qwest.net Fri Jun 14 19:08:08 2002 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 12:08:08 -0700 (US Mountain Standard Time) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200206141829.g5EITQx12615@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3D0A3F18.00000E.57473@pavilion.qwest.net> --------------Boundary-00=_KHMPXFP0000000000000 Content-Type: Multipart/Alternative; boundary="------------Boundary-00=_KHMPSPT1VA4000000000" --------------Boundary-00=_KHMPSPT1VA4000000000 Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="windows-1257" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Trees should always be deep watered. The following link will take you to the Master Gardener manual section on irrigation http://ag.arizona edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html=0D It explains why trees should be deep watered as well as how much during t= he each season.=0D Sue Bass=0D Master Gardener=0D -------Original Message-------=0D =0D From: dcheren@cox.net=0D Date: Friday, June 14, 2002 11:30:49 AM=0D To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=0D Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page=0D =0D during what months should trees be deep watered=0D =0D _______________________________________________=0D Arid_gardener mailing list=0D Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu=0D http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener=0D =0D =2E --------------Boundary-00=_KHMPSPT1VA4000000000 Content-Type: Text/HTML; charset="windows-1257" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable =0D =0A
Trees should always be deep watered.  The following link = will=20 take you to the Master Gardener manual section on irrigation http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html=
It explains why trees should be deep watered as well as how mu= ch=20 during the each season.
Sue Bass
Master Gardener
-------Original Message-------<= /I>
 
From: dcheren@cox.net
Date: Friday= , June 14,=20 2002 11:30:49 AM
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizo= na.edu
Subject:=20 [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
 
during what months should trees be deep=20 watered

_______________________________________________
A= rid_gardener=20 mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizo= na.Edu
http:= //Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener

.
=09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09
____________________________________________________
  IncrediMail - Email has finally evolved -=20 Click=20 Here --------------Boundary-00=_KHMPSPT1VA4000000000-- --------------Boundary-00=_KHMPXFP0000000000000 Content-Type: image/gif Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 Content-ID: <6A55AE01-7F66-11D6-9869-004005A99716> R0lGODlhFAAPALMIAP9gAM9gAM8vAM9gL/+QL5AvAGAvAP9gL////wAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAACH/C05FVFNDQVBFMi4wAwEAAAAh+QQJFAAIACwAAAAAFAAPAAAEVRDJSaudJuudrxlEKI6B URlCUYyjKpgYAKSgOBSCDEuGDKgrAtC3Q/R+hkPJEDgYCjpKr5A8WK9OaPFZwHoPqm3366VKyeRt E30tVVRscMHDqV/u+AgAIfkEBWQACAAsAAAAABQADwAABBIQyUmrvTjrzbv/YCiOZGmeaAQAIfkE CRQACAAsAgABABAADQAABEoQIUOrpXIOwrsPxiQUheeRAgUA49YNhbCqK1kS9grQhXGAhsDBUJgZ AL2Dcqkk7ogFpvRAokSn0p4PO6UIuUsQggSmFjKXdAgRAQAh+QQFCgAIACwAAAAAFAAPAAAEEhDJ Sau9OOvNu/9gKI5kaZ5oBAAh+QQJFAAIACwCAAEAEAANAAAEShAhQ6ulcg7Cuw/GJBSF55ECBQDj 1g2FsKorWRL2CtCFcYCGwMFQmBkAvYNyqSTuiAWm9ECiRKfSng87pQi5SxCCBKYWMpd0CBEBACH5 BAVkAAgALAAAAAAUAA8AAAQSEMlJq7046827/2AojmRpnmgEADs= --------------Boundary-00=_KHMPXFP0000000000000-- From crymer@Ag.arizona.edu Fri Jun 14 19:51:49 2002 From: crymer@Ag.arizona.edu (Cathy Rymer) Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 12:51:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Black Widow Spiders Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20020614124919.00b84400@ag.arizona.edu> Although Black Widow spiders prefer to live outdoors, occasionally they find their way inside. During the day they often hide under an object at the edge of their web. Black Widow spiders do not wander about looking for humans to bite. They can administers a purely defensive bite when the spider is inadvertently trapped against some part of a person's body, especially extremities like hands. Even though you have removed part of her web, she will most likely try to rebuild it within a few days which will be to your advantage. Because they are usually active at night, you can use a flash light to locate the spider spinning her web or waiting for prey. Spiders can be destroyed more efficiently by mechanical methods (a fly swatter or stick) than with an insecticide spray. It is just as easy and much less toxic to crush the spider with a rolled up newspaper or your shoe or to vacuum it up. If a spray is used, be sure that it wets the spider. Always carefully follow label instructions and keep insecticide containers out of the reach of children. There are various insecticides available in retail outlets labeled for spider control, including pyrethrins. If you spray a spider, it will be killed only if the spray lands directly on it; the spray residual does not have a long-lasting effect. This means a spider can walk over a sprayed surface a few days (and in many cases, a few hours) after treatment and not be affected. Control by spraying is only temporary. You may want to carefully remove toys from the box (wear gloves) to make sure the spider has not changed locations. She is most likely still living in your stereo, so moving the toy box will help isolate her until you can destroy her. More information on Black Widow spiders is available at the University of Arizona Urban IPM web site http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/spiders/blackwidows.html Also, the University of California at Davis has on line information at http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7442.html Cathy At 04:52 PM 06/12/2002 -0700, you wrote: >Hi, > >I hope that you can help. I was checking around the internet for >information on Black Widow Spiders. I came across an article from the >University of Arizona and clicked on the link to your e-mail. I can't >seem to find an answer to my question. > >I saw a Black Widow Spider in my house last evening and tried to get it in >a cup to take it outside. Of course it was fast and I was too slow. It >took off under the stereo cabinet. This morning I tried looking all >around the area where the web was and it's not there. By checking on the >internet, I found out that the female (which this was) will stay close to >her web. The web got pulled away when I tried to push the cup down over >her so it is not really a web anymore. My question is can you direct me >on where this spider may have possibly gone? Do they try to go back to >where the original web was, or could this spider be anywhere in my >house? That is what I am having trouble finding out. I have a 2-year old >daughter who has a big toy box right next to the stereo (where I >originally found the spider) and I am concerned that it may come back and >hang out inside her toy box. > >Anyway, if you can help me at all I'd really appreciate it. Thanks for >your time. > >Valerie Neal (in Phoenix) Catherine Rymer Instructional Specialist, Sr., Urban Horticulture University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Phoenix, AZ 85040 http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Fri Jun 14 20:48:15 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 13:48:15 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question watering trees In-Reply-To: <200206141829.g5EITQx12615@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20020614204815.94463.qmail@web14906.mail.yahoo.com> All trees should be deep watered every time you water. How often is the question. During the hot summer months,Depending on the variety of tree, deep water down to at least 3feet every 10 -14 days assuming these are mature trees. --- dcheren@cox.net wrote: > during what months should trees be deep watered > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com From cliff.anderson@motorola.com Fri Jun 14 21:34:16 2002 From: cliff.anderson@motorola.com (cliff.anderson@motorola.com) Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 14:34:16 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206142134.g5ELYGx18421@Ag.arizona.edu> Where can I get my soil tested? How much soil do I need? How long does it take to get the results, and how much does the test cost? I am planning to place sod to fill in blank spots on my Tif lawn. From sjbass@qwest.net Fri Jun 14 21:49:31 2002 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 14:49:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Soil Testing References: <200206142134.g5ELYGx18421@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3D0A64EB.88BF02C0@qwest.net> Here is a link to a page in our web site that contains a listing of laboratories offering soil testing, http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/soiltest.htm Phone numbers are included so you can get all the details directly from the laboratories. Sue Bass cliff.anderson@motorola.com wrote: > Where can I get my soil tested? How much soil do I need? How long does it take to get the results, and how much does the test cost? I am planning to place sod to fill in blank spots on my Tif lawn. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From molsen@Ag.arizona.edu Fri Jun 14 17:57:37 2002 From: molsen@Ag.arizona.edu (Mary Olsen) Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 10:57:37 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] requests for samples of "bud rot" in Queen Palm (roots and sections of tree) Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020614104719.01d02690@ag.arizona.edu> My lab is anxious to find out more about the elusive problem known as "bud rot" of Queen palm, and we need sections of trees and root samples to assay for pathogens. Please advise Master Gardeners, homeowners and landscape professionals that, in order to work on this problem, destructive sampling is required. Unfortunately, using a chain saw is about the only way to effectively sample the internal tissue throughout the tree, and digging out many of the roots is the only way to get good root samples. DIAGNOSIS OF PLANT DISEASES Samples can be sent to the Department of Plant Pathology, Forbes 204, The University of Arizona, Tucson, AZ 85721; or via the courier. _______________________________________________ Maricopa-mg mailing list Maricopa-mg@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/maricopa-mg From ksfaith@aol.com Sat Jun 15 19:37:36 2002 From: ksfaith@aol.com (ksfaith@aol.com) Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 12:37:36 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206151937.g5FJbax24902@Ag.arizona.edu> Can an overabundance of rabbit droppings kill bermuda grass? Does it burn the grass or is it a disease? From beeb524@aol.com Sat Jun 15 22:42:26 2002 From: beeb524@aol.com (beeb524@aol.com) Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 15:42:26 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206152242.g5FMgQx09010@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like the "recipe" for a homemade mixture -- made with oranges -- that will kill ants. My main concern is that it will be safe to use around dogs and birds. From Barbara@customscientific.com Sat Jun 15 22:47:00 2002 From: Barbara@customscientific.com (Barbara Marcus) Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 15:47:00 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] cape honeysuckle Message-ID: <008001c214be$9a11e140$74053b41@doitnow.com> I have some beautiful new leaves on this plant but my older leaves have a whitish film on them. The plant gets a lot of sun and is watered frequently. Is this saltbunr? Why is it only showing up on the old leaves? Thanks, B. From sjbass@qwest.net Sat Jun 15 23:29:04 2002 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 16:29:04 -0700 (US Mountain Standard Time) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Orange Peel ant killer References: <200206152242.g5FMgQx09010@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3D0BCDC0.000006.60835@pavilion.qwest.net> --------------Boundary-00=_G8TR12S0000000000000 Content-Type: Multipart/Alternative; boundary="------------Boundary-00=_G8TRWCW0000000000000" --------------Boundary-00=_G8TRWCW0000000000000 Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="windows-1257" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable You can puree orange peels in a blender with some water to make a slurry = and pour it on ant hills. I don't believe this is toxic to pets, but perhaps= a fellow MG can add further to this.=0D Sue Bass=0D =0D -------Original Message-------=0D =0D From: beeb524@aol.com=0D Date: Saturday, June 15, 2002 03:43:46 PM=0D To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=0D Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page=0D =0D I would like the "recipe" for a homemade mixture -- made with oranges -- that will kill ants. My main concern is that it will be safe to use aroun= d dogs and birds.=0D =0D _______________________________________________=0D Arid_gardener mailing list=0D Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu=0D http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener=0D =0D =2E --------------Boundary-00=_G8TRWCW0000000000000 Content-Type: Text/HTML; charset="windows-1257" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable =0D =0A
You can puree orange peels in a blender with some water to mak= e a=20 slurry and pour it on ant hills.  I don't believe this is toxi= c to=20 pets, but perhaps a fellow MG can add further to this.
Sue Bass
 
-------Original Message-------<= /I>
 
From: beeb524@aol.com
Date: Saturd= ay, June=20 15, 2002 03:43:46 PM
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizo= na.edu
Subject:=20 [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
 
I would like the "recipe" for a homemade mixture -= - made=20 with oranges -- that will kill ants. My main concern is that it wil= l be=20 safe to use around dogs and=20 birds.

_______________________________________________
Ar= id_gardener=20 mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizo= na.Edu
http:= //Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener

.
=09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09
____________________________________________________
  IncrediMail - Email has finally evolved -=20 Click=20 Here --------------Boundary-00=_G8TRWCW0000000000000-- --------------Boundary-00=_G8TR12S0000000000000 Content-Type: image/gif Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 Content-ID: <5FE5514A-803E-11D6-9869-004005A99716> R0lGODlhFAAPALMIAP9gAM9gAM8vAM9gL/+QL5AvAGAvAP9gL////wAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAACH/C05FVFNDQVBFMi4wAwEAAAAh+QQJFAAIACwAAAAAFAAPAAAEVRDJSaudJuudrxlEKI6B URlCUYyjKpgYAKSgOBSCDEuGDKgrAtC3Q/R+hkPJEDgYCjpKr5A8WK9OaPFZwHoPqm3366VKyeRt E30tVVRscMHDqV/u+AgAIfkEBWQACAAsAAAAABQADwAABBIQyUmrvTjrzbv/YCiOZGmeaAQAIfkE CRQACAAsAgABABAADQAABEoQIUOrpXIOwrsPxiQUheeRAgUA49YNhbCqK1kS9grQhXGAhsDBUJgZ AL2Dcqkk7ogFpvRAokSn0p4PO6UIuUsQggSmFjKXdAgRAQAh+QQFCgAIACwAAAAAFAAPAAAEEhDJ Sau9OOvNu/9gKI5kaZ5oBAAh+QQJFAAIACwCAAEAEAANAAAEShAhQ6ulcg7Cuw/GJBSF55ECBQDj 1g2FsKorWRL2CtCFcYCGwMFQmBkAvYNyqSTuiAWm9ECiRKfSng87pQi5SxCCBKYWMpd0CBEBACH5 BAVkAAgALAAAAAAUAA8AAAQSEMlJq7046827/2AojmRpnmgEADs= --------------Boundary-00=_G8TR12S0000000000000-- From vronsky@gold-eagle.com Sun Jun 16 00:00:57 2002 From: vronsky@gold-eagle.com (vronsky) Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 20:00:57 -0400 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pencil cactus yellowing of lower most 'pencils' fingers References: <3CF269ED.FA6C3D54@gold-eagle.com> <3CF2B5BA.E9546E63@qwest.net> Message-ID: <3D0BD539.6F64A35D@gold-eagle.com> --------------C22C709948BABD88F1C0FFEF Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Sue Well its been 3 weeks since I last watered the pencil cactus. The number of new pencils turning yellow during this period seems to have slowed. My question now is WHEN and how often should I water it? Would you suggest once per month? Also, what volume water? The plant is still in a 10-gallon black nursery container. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. best regards and many thx vronsky Sue Bass wrote: > I would say that you are over-watering the cactus. Most cactus > survive on not much more than 6-inches of rainfall per year so 3/4 to > 1 quart a water per week is most likely drowning it. > Let the soil dry out. One rule of thumb for potted cacti is to water > when the soil is dry an inch below the surface. Be sure that your > cactus is planted in a well-draining mix if you have repotted it since > purchasing it. Commerical cactus mix is available. > Sue Bass > Master Gardener > vronsky wrote: > >> I found you on the net - and I hope you have the time to give me >> some advice. >> >> About 3 weeks ago I bought a magnificent 8' high, very bushy Pencil >> Cactus in a 10-gal pot. It was raised in an open-aired >> nursery but covered roof with practically NO direct sunlight. I >> placed the pot on my 26th floor balcony. Conditions of the >> balcony are: much strong wind with only about 2-3 hours of direct >> sun rays per day. I am watering once per week with 3/4s >> to 1 quart. >> >> Slowly I am seeing some of the lowest pencil leafs turning yellow >> (which break off easily). However, from mid height to the >> top I see many new pencil leafs (fingers), suggesting to me it is >> growing well (especially since I have had the plant for only 3 >> weeks). >> >> Weather conditions on my balcony are obviously more severe than at >> the nursery I described. >> >> QUESTIONS: >> 1. Is this something for me to worry about? >> 2. What could be the cause of some lower branch fingers to yellow? >> >> best regards and TIA >> >> vronsky > --------------C22C709948BABD88F1C0FFEF Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Sue

Well its been 3 weeks since I last watered the pencil cactus.  The number of new pencils turning yellow during this period seems to have slowed. My question now is WHEN and how often should I water it? Would you suggest once per month?  Also, what volume water?  The plant is still  in a 10-gallon black nursery container. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

best regards and many thx vronsky

Sue Bass wrote:

I would say that you are over-watering the cactus.  Most cactus survive on not much more than 6-inches of rainfall per year so 3/4 to 1 quart a water per week is most likely drowning it.
Let the soil dry out.  One rule of thumb for potted cacti is to water when the soil is dry an inch below the surface.  Be sure that your cactus is planted in a well-draining mix if you have repotted it since purchasing it.  Commerical cactus mix is available.
Sue Bass
Master Gardener
vronsky wrote:
I found you on the net - and I hope you have the time to give me some advice.

About 3 weeks ago I bought a magnificent 8' high, very bushy Pencil Cactus in a 10-gal pot. It was raised in an open-aired
nursery  but covered roof with practically NO direct sunlight. I placed the pot on my 26th floor balcony. Conditions of the
balcony are: much strong wind with only about 2-3 hours of direct sun rays per day. I am watering once per week with 3/4s
to 1 quart.

Slowly I am seeing some of the lowest pencil leafs turning yellow (which break off easily). However, from mid height to the
top I see many new pencil leafs (fingers), suggesting to me it is growing well (especially since I have had the plant for only 3
weeks).

Weather conditions on my balcony are obviously more severe than at the nursery I described.

QUESTIONS:
1. Is this something for me to worry about?
2. What could be the cause of some lower branch fingers to yellow?

best regards and TIA

vronsky

--------------C22C709948BABD88F1C0FFEF-- From wmonsnoop@cox.net Sun Jun 16 00:28:36 2002 From: wmonsnoop@cox.net (wmonsnoop@cox.net) Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 17:28:36 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206160028.g5G0Sax18336@Ag.arizona.edu> We are considering changing our back yard from a lawn to "desert landscaping". How do I prepare the ground to avoid future problems with grass? What are the approximate savings to doing this over having a lawn in terms of water usage. I estimate approx 1500 to 1700 sq ft of surface being converted but will have a couple of citrus and desert plants. From kpelaccio1@hotmail.com Sun Jun 16 01:22:39 2002 From: kpelaccio1@hotmail.com (kpelaccio1@hotmail.com) Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 18:22:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206160122.g5G1Mdx21937@Ag.arizona.edu> Do you have any information about raised beds? From sjbass@qwest.net Sun Jun 16 17:31:31 2002 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 10:31:31 -0700 (US Mountain Standard Time) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pencil cactus yellowing of lower most 'pencils' fingers References: <3D0BD539.6F64A35D@gold-eagle.com> Message-ID: <3D0CCB73.000001.76851@pavilion.qwest.net> --------------Boundary-00=_JC7TQL80000000000000 Content-Type: Multipart/Alternative; boundary="------------Boundary-00=_JC7TLVC0000000000000" --------------Boundary-00=_JC7TLVC0000000000000 Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="windows-1257" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Here is a page at DesertCacti.com that may be useful to you. It explains watering and further care of cacti. http://www.desertcacti com/jsdcp/cactuscare.html=0D Sue Bass=0D =0D -------Original Message-------=0D =0D From: vronsky=0D Date: Saturday, June 15, 2002 05:02:48 PM=0D To: Sue Bass=0D Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=0D Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pencil cactus yellowing of lower most 'pencils' fingers=0D =0D Hi Sue =0D Well its been 3 weeks since I last watered the pencil cactus. The number= of new pencils turning yellow during this period seems to have slowed. My question now is WHEN and how often should I water it? Would you suggest o= nce per month? Also, what volume water? The plant is still in a 10-gallon black nursery container. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. =0D best regards and many thx vronsky =0D Sue Bass wrote: =0D I would say that you are over-watering the cactus. Most cactus survive o= n not much more than 6-inches of rainfall per year so 3/4 to 1 quart a wate= r per week is most likely drowning it. =0D Let the soil dry out. One rule of thumb for potted cacti is to water whe= n the soil is dry an inch below the surface. Be sure that your cactus is planted in a well-draining mix if you have repotted it since purchasing i= t.=20 Commerical cactus mix is available. =0D Sue Bass =0D Master Gardener =0D vronsky wrote: =0D I found you on the net - and I hope you have the time to give me some adv= ice =0D About 3 weeks ago I bought a magnificent 8' high, very bushy Pencil Cactu= s in a 10-gal pot. It was raised in an open-aired =0D nursery but covered roof with practically NO direct sunlight. I placed t= he pot on my 26th floor balcony. Conditions of the =0D balcony are: much strong wind with only about 2-3 hours of direct sun ray= s per day. I am watering once per week with 3/4s =0D to 1 quart. =0D Slowly I am seeing some of the lowest pencil leafs turning yellow (which break off easily). However, from mid height to the =0D top I see many new pencil leafs (fingers), suggesting to me it is growing well (especially since I have had the plant for only 3 =0D weeks). =0D Weather conditions on my balcony are obviously more severe than at the nursery I described. =0D QUESTIONS: =0D 1. Is this something for me to worry about? =0D 2. What could be the cause of some lower branch fingers to yellow? =0D best regards and TIA =0D vronsky --------------Boundary-00=_JC7TLVC0000000000000 Content-Type: Text/HTML; charset="windows-1257" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable =0D =0A
Here is a page at DesertCacti.com that may be useful to you.&n= bsp; It=20 explains watering and further care of cacti. http://ww= w.desertcacti.com/jsdcp/cactuscare.html
Sue Bass
 
-------Original Message-------<= /I>
 
From: vronsky
Date: Saturd= ay, June=20 15, 2002 05:02:48 PM
To: Sue Bass
Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.arizo= na.edu
Subject:=20 [Arid_gardener] Pencil cactus yellowing of lower most 'pencils'=20 fingers
 
Hi Sue=20

Well its been 3 weeks since I last watered the pencil cactus.&nb= sp; The=20 number of new pencils turning yellow during this period seems to ha= ve=20 slowed. My question now is WHEN and how often should I water it? Wo= uld you=20 suggest once per month?  Also, what volume water?  The pl= ant is=20 still  in a 10-gallon black nursery container. Any suggestions= would=20 be greatly appreciated.=20

best regards and many thx vronsky=20

Sue Bass wrote:=20

I would say that you are over-watering th= e=20 cactus.  Most cactus survive on not much more than 6-inches = of=20 rainfall per year so 3/4 to 1 quart a water per week is most like= ly=20 drowning it.
Let the soil dry out.  One rule of thumb fo= r=20 potted cacti is to water when the soil is dry an inch below the=20 surface.  Be sure that your cactus is planted in a well-drai= ning=20 mix if you have repotted it since purchasing it.  Commerical= cactus=20 mix is available.
Sue Bass
Master Gardener
vronsky wr= ote:=20
I found you on= the net=20 - and I hope you have the time to give me some advice.=20

About 3 weeks ago I bought a magnif= icent 8'=20 high, very bushy Pencil Cactus in a 10-gal pot. It was raised i= n an=20 open-aired
nursery = ; but=20 covered roof with practically NO direct sunlight. I placed the = pot on=20 my 26th floor balcony. Conditions of the
balcony are: much strong wind with only about 2= -3 hours=20 of direct sun rays per day. I am watering once per week with=20 3/4s
to 1 quart.= =20

Slowly I am seeing some of the lowe= st pencil=20 leafs turning yellow (which break off easily). However, from mi= d=20 height to the
top I see= many new=20 pencil leafs (fingers), suggesting to me it is growing well=20 (especially since I have had the plant for only 3=20
weeks).=20

Weather conditions on my balcony ar= e=20 obviously more severe than at the nursery I described.=20

QUESTIONS:
1. Is this something for me to worry about?=20
2. What could be the cause of some= lower=20 branch fingers to yellow?=20

best regards and TIA=20

vronsky

=
 
=09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09
____________________________________________________
  IncrediMail - Email has finally evolved -=20 Click=20 Here --------------Boundary-00=_JC7TLVC0000000000000-- --------------Boundary-00=_JC7TQL80000000000000 Content-Type: image/gif Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 Content-ID: R0lGODlhFAAPALMIAP9gAM9gAM8vAM9gL/+QL5AvAGAvAP9gL////wAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAACH/C05FVFNDQVBFMi4wAwEAAAAh+QQJFAAIACwAAAAAFAAPAAAEVRDJSaudJuudrxlEKI6B URlCUYyjKpgYAKSgOBSCDEuGDKgrAtC3Q/R+hkPJEDgYCjpKr5A8WK9OaPFZwHoPqm3366VKyeRt E30tVVRscMHDqV/u+AgAIfkEBWQACAAsAAAAABQADwAABBIQyUmrvTjrzbv/YCiOZGmeaAQAIfkE CRQACAAsAgABABAADQAABEoQIUOrpXIOwrsPxiQUheeRAgUA49YNhbCqK1kS9grQhXGAhsDBUJgZ AL2Dcqkk7ogFpvRAokSn0p4PO6UIuUsQggSmFjKXdAgRAQAh+QQFCgAIACwAAAAAFAAPAAAEEhDJ Sau9OOvNu/9gKI5kaZ5oBAAh+QQJFAAIACwCAAEAEAANAAAEShAhQ6ulcg7Cuw/GJBSF55ECBQDj 1g2FsKorWRL2CtCFcYCGwMFQmBkAvYNyqSTuiAWm9ECiRKfSng87pQi5SxCCBKYWMpd0CBEBACH5 BAVkAAgALAAAAAAUAA8AAAQSEMlJq7046827/2AojmRpnmgEADs= --------------Boundary-00=_JC7TQL80000000000000-- From vronsky@gold-eagle.com Sun Jun 16 17:28:37 2002 From: vronsky@gold-eagle.com (vronsky) Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 13:28:37 -0400 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pencil cactus yellowing of lower most 'pencils' fingers References: <3D0BD539.6F64A35D@gold-eagle.com> <3D0CCB73.000001.76851@pavilion.qwest.net> Message-ID: <3D0CCAC5.9E47407@gold-eagle.com> --------------3157E433CADC7384BC6969B7 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Many thx Sue Sue Bass wrote: > Here is a page at DesertCacti.com that may be useful to you. It explains watering and further care of cacti. http://www.desertcacti.com/jsdcp/cactuscare.htmlSue Bass -------Original Message------- From: vronsky Date: Saturday, June 15, 2002 05:02:48 PM To: Sue Bass Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pencil cactus yellowing of lower most 'pencils' fingers Hi Sue Well its been 3 weeks since I last watered the pencil cactus. The number of new pencils turning yellow during this period seems to have slowed. My question now is WHEN and how often should I water it? Would you suggest once per month? Also, what volume water? The plant is still in a 10-gallon black nursery container. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. best regards and many thx vronsky Sue Bass wrote: > I would say that you are over-watering the cactus. Most cactus > survive on not much more than 6-inches of rainfall per year so 3/4 > to 1 quart a water per week is most likely drowning it. > Let the soil dry out. One rule of thumb for potted cacti is to > water when the soil is dry an inch below the surface. Be sure > that your cactus is planted in a well-draining mix if you have > repotted it since purchasing it. Commerical cactus mix is > available. > Sue Bass > Master Gardener > vronsky wrote: > > > I found you on the net - and I hope you have the time to give me > > some advice. > > > > About 3 weeks ago I bought a magnificent 8' high, very bushy > > Pencil Cactus in a 10-gal pot. It was raised in an open-aired > > nursery but covered roof with practically NO direct sunlight. I > > placed the pot on my 26th floor balcony. Conditions of the > > balcony are: much strong wind with only about 2-3 hours of direct > > sun rays per day. I am watering once per week with 3/4s > > to 1 quart. > > > > Slowly I am seeing some of the lowest pencil leafs turning yellow > > (which break off easily). However, from mid height to the > > top I see many new pencil leafs (fingers), suggesting to me it is > > growing well (especially since I have had the plant for only 3 > > weeks). > > > > Weather conditions on my balcony are obviously more severe than > > at the nursery I described. > > > > QUESTIONS: > > 1. Is this something for me to worry about? > > 2. What could be the cause of some lower branch fingers to > > yellow? > > > > best regards and TIA > > > > vronsky > > ____________________________________________________ > IncrediMail - Email has finally evolved - Click Here --------------3157E433CADC7384BC6969B7 Content-Type: multipart/related; boundary="------------5E9F4078C1B934B14A651492" --------------5E9F4078C1B934B14A651492 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Many thx Sue

Sue Bass wrote:

Here is a page at DesertCacti.com that may be useful to you.  It explains watering and further care of cacti. http://www.desertcacti.com/jsdcp/cactuscare.htmlSue Bass 
-------Original Message-------
 
From: vronsky
Date: Saturday, June 15, 2002 05:02:48 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pencil cactus yellowing of lower most 'pencils' fingers
 Hi Sue 

Well its been 3 weeks since I last watered the pencil cactus.  The number of new pencils turning yellow during this period seems to have slowed. My question now is WHEN and how often should I water it? Would you suggest once per month?  Also, what volume water?  The plant is still  in a 10-gallon black nursery container. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. 

best regards and many thx vronsky 

Sue Bass wrote: 

I would say that you are over-watering the cactus.  Most cactus survive on not much more than 6-inches of rainfall per year so 3/4 to 1 quart a water per week is most likely drowning it. 
Let the soil dry out.  One rule of thumb for potted cacti is to water when the soil is dry an inch below the surface.  Be sure that your cactus is planted in a well-draining mix if you have repotted it since purchasing it.  Commerical cactus mix is available. 
Sue Bass 
Master Gardener 
vronsky wrote: 
I found you on the net - and I hope you have the time to give me some advice.

About 3 weeks ago I bought a magnificent 8' high, very bushy Pencil Cactus in a 10-gal pot. It was raised in an open-aired
nursery  but covered roof with practically NO direct sunlight. I placed the pot on my 26th floor balcony. Conditions of the
balcony are: much strong wind with only about 2-3 hours of direct sun rays per day. I am watering once per week with 3/4s
to 1 quart.

Slowly I am seeing some of the lowest pencil leafs turning yellow (which break off easily). However, from mid height to the
top I see many new pencil leafs (fingers), suggesting to me it is growing well (especially since I have had the plant for only 3
weeks).

Weather conditions on my balcony are obviously more severe than at the nursery I described.

QUESTIONS:
1. Is this something for me to worry about?
2. What could be the cause of some lower branch fingers to yellow?

best regards and TIA

vronsky

 
____________________________________________________
  IncrediMail - Email has finally evolved - Click Here
--------------5E9F4078C1B934B14A651492 Content-Type: image/gif Content-ID: Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 Content-Disposition: inline; filename="C:\WINDOWS\TEMP\nsmail3S.gif" R0lGODlhFAAPALMIAP9gAM9gAM8vAM9gL/+QL5AvAGAvAP9gL////wAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAACH/C05FVFNDQVBFMi4wAwEAAAAh+QQJFAAIACwAAAAAFAAPAAAEVRDJSaudJuud rxlEKI6BURlCUYyjKpgYAKSgOBSCDEuGDKgrAtC3Q/R+hkPJEDgYCjpKr5A8WK9OaPFZwHoP qm3366VKyeRtE30tVVRscMHDqV/u+AgAIfkEBWQACAAsAAAAABQADwAABBIQyUmrvTjrzbv/ YCiOZGmeaAQAIfkECRQACAAsAgABABAADQAABEoQIUOrpXIOwrsPxiQUheeRAgUA49YNhbCq K1kS9grQhXGAhsDBUJgZAL2Dcqkk7ogFpvRAokSn0p4PO6UIuUsQggSmFjKXdAgRAQAh+QQF CgAIACwAAAAAFAAPAAAEEhDJSau9OOvNu/9gKI5kaZ5oBAAh+QQJFAAIACwCAAEAEAANAAAE ShAhQ6ulcg7Cuw/GJBSF55ECBQDj1g2FsKorWRL2CtCFcYCGwMFQmBkAvYNyqSTuiAWm9ECi RKfSng87pQi5SxCCBKYWMpd0CBEBACH5BAVkAAgALAAAAAAUAA8AAAQSEMlJq7046827/2Ao jmRpnmgEADs= --------------5E9F4078C1B934B14A651492-- --------------3157E433CADC7384BC6969B7-- From Rod McKusick" To make an ant killer simply grind up any citrus peel with water in a blender, use enough water so that the slurry runs well and pour the mixture into the ant hill. This works much better in the summer than in the winter. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: beeb524@aol.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Saturday, June 15, 2002 3:42 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >I would like the "recipe" for a homemade mixture -- made with oranges -- that will kill ants. My main concern is that it will be safe to use around dogs and birds. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From Rod McKusick" Bermuda grass must be actively growing in order for herbicides to be effective. Water routinely for at least a week then apply an herbicide such as Roundup. Continue watering for about two weeks then make another application of herbicide to any live grass that is still growing, usually this will do the job. If you want to be positive that the bermuda is gone water for another two weeks. If you live in the Phoenix area phone the Water Conservation Dept. of the city where you live, they will be able to give you an estimate of how much you will save by changing over to desert landscaping, but you must tell them how many shrubs and trees that you intend to plant. The savings will be substantial not only in water and cost but in labor. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: wmonsnoop@cox.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Saturday, June 15, 2002 5:28 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >We are considering changing our back yard from a lawn to "desert landscaping". How do I prepare the ground to avoid future problems with grass? >What are the approximate savings to doing this over having a lawn in terms of water usage. I estimate approx 1500 to 1700 sq ft of surface being converted but will have a couple of citrus and desert plants. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From Rod McKusick" What you are seeing is no doubt salt burn. You should be deep watering the cape honeysuckle once per week during the summer. The deep watering will help to flush the salts out of the root zone. Good luck. Rod Mckusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: Barbara Marcus To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Saturday, June 15, 2002 3:45 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] cape honeysuckle >I have some beautiful new leaves on this plant but my older leaves have a >whitish film on them. The plant gets a lot of sun and is watered >frequently. Is this saltbunr? Why is it only showing up on the old leaves? >Thanks, B. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Jun 16 19:18:41 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 19:18:41 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] raised beds Message-ID: A raised bed is easier to service and allows you to fill it with prepared soil. Beds can be built from bricks, boards, railroad ties, cinder blocks or other materials. Sides are 18 to 24-inches high. Heavy plastic can put around the inside edges to keep water from leaking out. Fill with a good soil mix. Beds no wider than 4 feet allow you to reach in comfortably from each side. [Mary Rose Duffield, "Plants for Dry Climates", 6/2002] If wildlife is a problem, line the bottom of the raised bed with hardware mesh before filing with soil and construct a removable chicken wire cover over the top of the bed. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: kpelaccio1@hotmail.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 18:22:39 -0700 (MST) > >Do you have any information about raised beds? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Jun 16 19:42:25 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 19:42:25 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] rabbit droppings Message-ID: I do not have firsthand knowledge, but I know my neighbors fight over the droppings from some caged domestic rabbits because it is such a great natural fertilizer. If the droppings were very concentrated they might cause some yellowing or browning due to salt burn. Irrigating the area should flush out the salts. This is not a diseaase. What sort of problems are you seeing with the bermuda grass? If we know more about the symptoms we could give a better answer. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: ksfaith@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 12:37:36 -0700 (MST) > >Can an overabundance of rabbit droppings kill bermuda grass? Does it burn >the grass or is it a disease? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net Sun Jun 16 19:49:25 2002 From: imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net (odm) Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 12:49:25 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Raised Beds References: <200206160122.g5G1Mdx21937@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <001501c2156f$0953b870$d053530c@delljor9501> There are a number of articles by people who have actually constructed raised beds of various sizes from various materials at http://members.primary.net/~silvest/garden/rbeds.html I would not use railroad ties or pressure treated lumber due to concerns about safety but you might want to read the information from the EPA at http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener and the links at http://www.epa.gov/pesticides/citizens/1file.htm and decide for yourself. My beds are 4 feet wide and 100 feet long and lined with construction grade 8"X8"X16" concrete blocks (called stretchers). Within these I can make the 4' wide beds any length by running 3 16" blocks crosswise wherever I want to terminate the bed, usually at 8 or 16' lengths. Works fine for me and allows my 4'X8' irrigation drip tape systems, bird screens and shade structures to be portable so they can be moved to any other place of the same size. In our low desert, raised beds tend to dry out faster than the soil at ground level so it helps to use lots of mulch. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > Do you have any information about raised beds? From Jonathan Kandell" <001501c2156f$0953b870$d053530c@delljor9501> Message-ID: <004801c2158a$f3dcd000$7339bbd0@oemcomputer> Some people here like raised beds; but having tried both raised and lowered beds in Tucson over several years, I've come to prefer the latter. In fact, in my community garden I'm giving up my raised bed. It's fine in winter. But in summer it dries out too fast and nothing seems to do as well. (One person's experience, take it for what it's worth.) My lowered pits are doing great, by contrast, flooded twice a week. My beds which are only raised a few inches (held back by piles of stones) are somewhere in the middle. The hardest part about lowered beds is keeping them lowered through the seasons. It might depend on how often you're willing to water. jk ----- Original Message ----- > In our low desert, raised beds tend to dry out faster than the soil at > ground level so it helps to use lots of mulch. > > Olin > > ----- Original Message ----- From: > > Do you have any information about raised beds? From dvrapp@cox.net Mon Jun 17 17:21:49 2002 From: dvrapp@cox.net (dvrapp@cox.net) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 10:21:49 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206171721.g5HHLnx05939@Ag.arizona.edu> I think I may have some type of borer beetle in my Evergreen elm. Who can I contact to find out for sure? I have the ability to take and send digital pictures of the damage. Thanks, Dave From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Jun 17 19:02:09 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 19:02:09 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] borer beetle in elm Message-ID: Dave, The female elm bark beetle bores a tunnel 1 to 2 inches long parallel to the grain of the wood where the bark meets the wood. She lays several dozen eggs along the gallery. THese hatch into larvae, each of which bores a tunnel at right angles to the parent gallary, at the layer between the bark and the wood. This creates a distinctive centipede-like pattern under the bark. Healthy plants are less likely to be attacked and are better able to survive the damage. Appropriate irrigation is especially important; irrigate near the outer portion of the canopy, not near the trunk. Avoid injuries to roots and trunks. Except for general cultural practices that improve tree vigor, little can be done to control most boring insects beneath the bark once trees have been attacked. [Pests of Landscape Trees and Shrubs, U. of California publication 3359] You can send digital pictures to this list (arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu) or take a sample to your nearest Cooperative Extension Office (check the "county pages" of the phone book) Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: dvrapp@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 10:21:49 -0700 (MST) > >I think I may have some type of borer beetle in my Evergreen elm. >Who can I contact to find out for sure? >I have the ability to take and send digital pictures of the damage. >Thanks, >Dave > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From postman8697@aol.com Mon Jun 17 19:38:02 2002 From: postman8697@aol.com (postman8697@aol.com) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 12:38:02 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206171938.g5HJc2x14006@Ag.arizona.edu> At what temperature will sweet corn no longer pollinate? thank you From dickcarmi@aol.com Mon Jun 17 20:31:42 2002 From: dickcarmi@aol.com (dickcarmi@aol.com) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 13:31:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206172031.g5HKVgx25004@Ag.arizona.edu> My orange and grapefruit trees (2) have a good number of yellow leaves, kind of a orange-yellow. They are not dropping. Could it be a sun-burn? From David W. Reichel" Message-ID: <020601c21651$c018ad80$99736244@chnd1.az.home.com> I have the same problem and will look forward to any information provided. Chandler, AZ ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, June 17, 2002 1:31 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > My orange and grapefruit trees (2) have a good number of yellow leaves, kind of a orange-yellow. They are not dropping. Could it be a sun-burn? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Rod McKusick" The problem you have with yellow orange leaves on your citrus is due to inadequate irrigation. This site will give you info on proper citrus irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: dickcarmi@aol.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, June 17, 2002 1:33 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >My orange and grapefruit trees (2) have a good number of yellow leaves, kind of a orange-yellow. They are not dropping. Could it be a sun-burn? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From J_B_Grant@Juno.com Mon Jun 17 23:38:28 2002 From: J_B_Grant@Juno.com (J_B_Grant@Juno.com) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 16:38:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206172338.g5HNcSx00826@Ag.arizona.edu> We live in the low desert outside of Yuma. What kind of flowers or flowering plants can I use that will take the summer heat? I am currently using periwinkles of different colors. Will they last all summer long? From plantdoc@adelphia.net Tue Jun 18 01:02:47 2002 From: plantdoc@adelphia.net (Barry L. Bequette) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 18:02:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200206172338.g5HNcSx00826@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3D0E86B7.F4D79FE5@adelphia.net> Periwinkle can survive the summer, particularly if shaded in the afternoon. Keep them well watered. Purslane is very tolerant of the summer heat and does quite well through the summer, but you may have trouble locating the plants. I suggest calling around to the garden centers to find purslane. Other than that, you can try some of the other plants that are still for sale in the garden centers, but most will not survive the middle of summer in Yuma without some shade in the afternoon and watering a couple of times per day.... Hope this helps, good luck. Dr. B. J_B_Grant@Juno.com wrote: > We live in the low desert outside of Yuma. What kind of flowers or flowering plants can I use that will take the summer heat? I am currently using periwinkles of different colors. Will they last all summer long? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From rodinman2@aol.com Tue Jun 18 03:26:36 2002 From: rodinman2@aol.com (rodinman2@aol.com) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 20:26:36 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206180326.g5I3Qax28789@Ag.arizona.edu> I own an insustrial property in Queen Creek. The property is landscaped with Palo Breas, Az Mesquites, Chilean Mesquites and Lysomas. I have a problem with the trees not taking good hold in the soil. The analysis of the soil shows 1/2 foot fill topsoil, and the next six feet a sandy silty composition. The soil does not hold water well. Can I add a soil amenity such as vermiculite to "clay up" the soil to retain water and better achorage for the trees? The trees are deep watered weekly since any less watering causes the trees to wilt. The lysolomas are doing fine. Any thought and recommendations will be greatly appreciated...............John From imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net Tue Jun 18 05:36:18 2002 From: imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net (odm) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 22:36:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Sweet Corn Pollination Temperature References: <200206171938.g5HJc2x14006@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <004501c2168a$5ae266c0$d552530c@delljor9501> ----- Original Message -----From: > At what temperature will sweet corn no longer pollinate? thank you Above 95 deg. F. Also at temperatures around 90 deg., the pollination period is shorter and pollination less reliable. In the low desert, sweet corn should be planted before April 1 to give it time for tassels and silks develop before the hot weather. -Olin From harviandpaul@earthlink.net Tue Jun 18 16:13:42 2002 From: harviandpaul@earthlink.net (harviandpaul@earthlink.net) Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 09:13:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206181613.g5IGDgx22451@Ag.arizona.edu> I need to have a summer watering schedule for mature desert trees and shrubs. I have a drip system. I am away from home a lot. Thank you From crymer@Ag.arizona.edu Tue Jun 18 19:18:44 2002 From: crymer@Ag.arizona.edu (Cathy Rymer) Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 12:18:44 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] spam on the list Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20020618121047.00b94140@ag.arizona.edu> Our extreme apologies to all arid_gardener list subscribers and readers. This morning offensive spam made its way onto the list serve. This particular message was not filtered through approval processes because it was posted right in to the question form we have on line. The person posting the message was not a subscriber to arid_gardener. This was the first thing we checked when the message was noted. I sent an urgent request to Aaryn Olsson, the custodian of mailman in the computer center on campus in Tucson. He says..... "I don't know an easy way to keep those messages off the list if you are going to keep it open to anybody who wishes to post to it." We could restrict posting privilege to list members. This would restrict access to the public, who we are trying to help. It would also mean that we (the list serve administrators) would have to approve every posting to the list by a non-subscriber, which could be cumbersome. Aaryn is working to remove the message from the archives. Cathy Catherine Rymer Instructional Specialist, Sr., Urban Horticulture University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Phoenix, AZ 85040 http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ From janegrelli1@aol.com Tue Jun 18 19:18:51 2002 From: janegrelli1@aol.com (janegrelli1@aol.com) Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 12:18:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206181918.g5IJIpx01982@Ag.arizona.edu> I live in Anthem. I have desert landscaping with a Rain Bird, e Class controller water system. At this time of the year, how often and long should I water. I was told that I should be watering 4 times a day. Please help! From bugqpoo@netscape.net Tue Jun 18 19:20:02 2002 From: bugqpoo@netscape.net (bugqpoo@netscape.net) Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 12:20:02 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206181920.g5IJK2x02207@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a pine tree in my front yard (goldwater or aleppo[sp?]--not sure which) that is looking sickly. Over the last year or so it has developed patches of a rusty substance on the bark. It has slowly spread upward, and now many of the needles and a few branches look dead. This tree is about 20 years old and provides wonderful shade, so I'd hate to lose it. Do you have any ideas of what is happening to it and how to help it? Thanks!! From dickbaker@cox.net Tue Jun 18 21:03:16 2002 From: dickbaker@cox.net (dickbaker@cox.net) Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 14:03:16 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206182103.g5IL3Gx22681@Ag.arizona.edu> My Santa Ana grass has brown spots that are getting bigger. I dug up some at the edges of the brwon spots, looking for pearl scale, but didn't find any. Where can I take a sample of it to get analyzed? Thanks, Dick Baker From copper@bargainsail.com Tue Jun 18 21:33:34 2002 From: copper@bargainsail.com (Copper Bittner) Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 14:33:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] brown spots in grass In-Reply-To: <200206182103.g5IL3Gx22681@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Dear Dick, You don't say in which county you reside. If you live in Maricopa County, take a sample that contains some of the healthy grass and some of the brown spots, with a good portion of soil, to the Maricopa County extension office at 4331 E Broadway, Phoenix. If you live in a different county go to the following link to find the address of your local extension office. http://ag.arizona.edu/extension/counties/ Good Luck, Copper Bittner Master Gardener, Maricopa County -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of dickbaker@cox.net Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2002 2:03 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My Santa Ana grass has brown spots that are getting bigger. I dug up some at the edges of the brwon spots, looking for pearl scale, but didn't find any. Where can I take a sample of it to get analyzed? Thanks, Dick Baker _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Jonathan Kandell" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0050_01C216D4.F9940360 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable My cantelope plants are doing well well. But some of the melons have = rot at one end and others have white soft spots on upper part of skin. = Is this rot from water? Is it sun burn in the latter case? Can I cover = the melons with paper to shield them from the sun? I have the melons = sitting on small rocks to keep them off the damp ground. Also, I'm = watering my melon pits twice a week these days. Is that about right? = They seem to be a bit dry all the time. Thanks as usual, Jonathan Tucson AZ ------=_NextPart_000_0050_01C216D4.F9940360 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
My cantelope plants are doing well well.  = But some of=20 the melons have rot at one end and others have white soft spots on upper = part of=20 skin.  Is this rot from water?  Is it sun burn in the latter=20 case?  Can I cover the melons with paper to shield them from the = sun? =20 I have the melons sitting on small rocks to keep them off the damp = ground. =20 Also, I'm watering my melon pits twice a week these days.  Is that = about=20 right?  They seem to be a bit dry all the time.  Thanks as=20 usual,
Jonathan
Tucson AZ
------=_NextPart_000_0050_01C216D4.F9940360-- From copper@bargainsail.com Tue Jun 18 21:56:20 2002 From: copper@bargainsail.com (Copper Bittner) Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 14:56:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Brown spots in grass In-Reply-To: <200206182103.g5IL3Gx22681@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Sorry Dick, I didn't check my address before it was sent...the extension office for Maricopa County is 4341 E Broadway in Phoenix. Copper -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of dickbaker@cox.net Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2002 2:03 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My Santa Ana grass has brown spots that are getting bigger. I dug up some at the edges of the brwon spots, looking for pearl scale, but didn't find any. Where can I take a sample of it to get analyzed? Thanks, Dick Baker _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Rod McKusick" The only time that you would need to water 4 times a day is after planting grass seed and then only until the grass starts to grow. Check out these sites for answers to your questions about irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://www.amwua.org/xscp-wateringschedules.htm http://www.ci.phoenix.az.us/WATER/lawnguid.html#LONG Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From: janegrelli1@aol.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Tuesday, June 18, 2002 12:26 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I live in Anthem. I have desert landscaping with a Rain Bird, e Class controller water system. At this time of the year, how often and long should I water. I was told that I should be watering 4 times a day. Please help! > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From Rod McKusick" John, Yes vermiculite would help to clay up the soil, however I would recommend adding approximately 1/3 forest mulch or compost to the planting hole mixed with the native soil and dig those planting holes 3 to 5 times the width of the planting container. The mulch will help to retain moisture as well as providing humus as it breaks down. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: rodinman2@aol.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, June 17, 2002 8:26 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I own an insustrial property in Queen Creek. The property is landscaped with Palo Breas, Az Mesquites, Chilean Mesquites and Lysomas. I have a problem with the trees not taking good hold in the soil. The analysis of the soil shows 1/2 foot fill topsoil, and the next six feet a sandy silty composition. The soil does not hold water well. Can I add a soil amenity such as vermiculite to "clay up" the soil to retain water and better achorage for the trees? The trees are deep watered weekly since any less watering causes the trees to wilt. The lysolomas are doing fine. Any thought and recommendations will be greatly appreciated...............John > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From Rod McKusick" Thhe following sites will give you info on watering your trees and shrubs: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://www.amwua.org/xscp-wateringschedules.htm Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: harviandpaul@earthlink.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Tuesday, June 18, 2002 9:13 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I need to have a summer watering schedule for mature desert trees and shrubs. I have a drip system. I am away from home a lot. >Thank you > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From Rod McKusick" The problem you are having with your pine tree sounds as if it might be white pine blister rust, however I have never seen it in the low desert and the texts that I have say that it is very rare here in the desert. Since nothing was offered for a treatment I suspect that there is not a treatment available. My suggestion is to be sure that the tree is deep watered adequately. Insects and disease will almost always attack a tree that is under stress. The drought conditions here in Arizona have caused many trees and plants to fall by the wayside. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: bugqpoo@netscape.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Tuesday, June 18, 2002 12:23 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I have a pine tree in my front yard (goldwater or aleppo[sp?]--not sure which) that is looking sickly. Over the last year or so it has developed patches of a rusty substance on the bark. It has slowly spread upward, and now many of the needles and a few branches look dead. This tree is about 20 years old and provides wonderful shade, so I'd hate to lose it. Do you have any ideas of what is happening to it and how to help it? >Thanks!! > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From Rod McKusick" Dick, Here are a few things you might want to check, since Copper gave you the address where to take a sample of sod. Are the brown spots getting enough water, can you insert a 6 inch long screwdriver blade to the hilt after you have watered, particularly in the brown spots ? Are you mowing often enough so that you never cut off more than 1/3 of the total height ? Have you dethatched lately and is your thatch buildup more than 1/2 inch ? A fungus called Brown Patch ( Rhizoctonia solani ) sometimes affects the tiff grasses. If you take a sample to the Cooperative Extension they should be able to ID a fungus if one is present. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: dickbaker@cox.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Tuesday, June 18, 2002 2:06 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >My Santa Ana grass has brown spots that are getting bigger. I dug up some at the edges of the brwon spots, looking for pearl scale, but didn't find any. Where can I take a sample of it to get analyzed? > >Thanks, >Dick Baker > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From watsontl@mindspring.com Wed Jun 19 02:45:35 2002 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 19:45:35 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] spam on the list References: <4.2.0.58.20020618121047.00b94140@ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <004101c2173b$64212bc0$9a49b83f@oemcomputer> You know, that's one of the problems with email and the internet. It happens. No matter how hard we try to keep it "clean" there are foolish people out there who will take advantage of what we have here. We know those keeping this listserv alive and well will do what they can to prevent such troubles, and we understand that junk will slip in from time to time all the same. I added the sender to my blocked list, erased the damned thing, and went on to the next message. No harm done. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Cathy Rymer" To: Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2002 12:18 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] spam on the list > Our extreme apologies to all arid_gardener list subscribers and > readers. This morning offensive spam made its way onto the list serve. > > This particular message was not filtered through approval processes because > it was posted right in to the question form we have on line. The person > posting the message was not a subscriber to arid_gardener. > This was the first thing we checked when the message was noted. > > I sent an urgent request to Aaryn Olsson, the custodian of mailman in the > computer center on campus in Tucson. He says..... > > "I don't know an easy way to keep those messages off the list if you are > going to keep it open to anybody who wishes to post to it." We could > restrict posting privilege to list members. This would restrict access to > the public, who we are trying to help. It would also mean that we (the > list serve administrators) would have to approve every posting to the list > by a non-subscriber, which could be cumbersome. > > Aaryn is working to remove the message from the archives. > > Cathy > > > Catherine Rymer > Instructional Specialist, Sr., Urban Horticulture > University of Arizona > Maricopa County Cooperative Extension > 4341 E. Broadway > Phoenix, AZ 85040 > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From lani@dnaz.org Wed Jun 19 03:31:44 2002 From: lani@dnaz.org (lani@dnaz.org) Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 20:31:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206190331.g5J3Vhx22109@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a Brazillian pepper tree, planted about 18 months ago. Some leaves are turning yellow and have dark spots. The tree has new growth at the top and otherwise seems healthy. What is wrong and what should I do about it. Thanks. From wildcatcombo@qwest.net Wed Jun 19 05:58:48 2002 From: wildcatcombo@qwest.net (Jim & Sharon Combo) Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 22:58:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] How to Kill an African Sumac Message-ID: <3D101D97.8F4FB14F@qwest.net> HELP!!! An African Sumac is dropping leaves continually into my pool! How can I kill it? Thanks for your help! Leslie From Geoffrey.Brady@apollogrp.edu Wed Jun 19 15:22:12 2002 From: Geoffrey.Brady@apollogrp.edu (Geoff Brady) Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 08:22:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mealybugs on Hibiscus Message-ID: <19C1DB27BF36D611848700065B3B44210569B1@APOPHXEX4> I believe (mostly certain) I have mealybugs on my red hibiscus. The flowers are covered with white powder and I can see little furry cretins. The plants are almost 4 years old and usually thrive quite well. Most summers they bloom and are very beautiful. What is the best way to get rid of these pests. I don't want them spreading to my citrus or garden. I read on the web that chemical treatment is ineffective. I also read that soap sprays are effective, but also can affect good bugs as well. Please help. Geoff Brady Chandler, AZ From Rod McKusick" Sounds as if you are not watering your pepper tree adequately. Check out these sites for info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://www.amwua.org/xscp-wateringschedules.htm Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: lani@dnaz.org To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Tuesday, June 18, 2002 8:32 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I have a Brazillian pepper tree, planted about 18 months ago. Some leaves are turning yellow and have dark spots. The tree has new growth at the top and otherwise seems healthy. What is wrong and what should I do about it. Thanks. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Jun 19 23:17:13 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 23:17:13 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] How to Kill an African Sumac Message-ID: Perhaps you should contact a certified arborist and have the tree cut down and removed. Unless the tree is small, tree removal is a bit more than most of us can handle. Just killing the tree will produce tons more dead leaves, banches, etc. getting into your pool. All living things are messy, some just more than others. If the tree is stressed, it may be losing more leaves and getting it healthy and vigorous might partially solve the problem. Otherwise, have the tree removed and shop very carefully for a replacement that will produce less litter than the tree you now have. Please do expect some litter from any plant you put in to replace the tree. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Jim & Sharon Combo >Reply-To: wildcatcombo@qwest.net >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] How to Kill an African Sumac >Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 22:58:48 -0700 > >HELP!!! An African Sumac is dropping leaves continually into my pool! >How can I kill it? > >Thanks for your help! >Leslie > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From BLAIR@ASD.SIMULA.COM Wed Jun 19 23:28:30 2002 From: BLAIR@ASD.SIMULA.COM (BLAIR@ASD.SIMULA.COM) Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 16:28:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206192328.g5JNSUx10970@Ag.arizona.edu> Is it good to leave the clipping from your lawn on the lawn when mowing. (mulching) Does then heat here lead thatch build-up. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Jun 20 00:24:16 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 00:24:16 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] grass clippings, thatch Message-ID: Mowing height and frequency go hand in hand. The closer you mow, the more often you must mow. This is necessary to avoid excessive leaf removal, which puts the plant in a stress-recovery situation. Again, never remove more than 1/3 the height of the grass at one mowing. Turfgrass clippings contribute very little to the development of thatch when proper mowing procedures are practiced. Excess clippings left on the lawn will weaken the lawn and perhaps contribute to thatch. But if you mow at the proper frequency and mowing height, clippings left on the turf do not cause thatch build-up. Clippings should be collected and removed when: (1) the clippings are excessive, (2) lawn is diseased, and (3) if weeds are setting seed. Mulching mowers may increase decomposition of the clippings, since they produce smaller size clippings which allows for faster decomposition. Master Gardener Manual Chapter 12 http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/renovating.html#mowing Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: BLAIR@ASD.SIMULA.COM >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 16:28:30 -0700 (MST) > >Is it good to leave the clipping from your lawn on the lawn when mowing. >(mulching) Does then heat here lead thatch build-up. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Jun 20 03:19:31 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 03:19:31 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mealybugs on Hibiscus Message-ID: Soap solutions can control soft-bodied insects like aphids, mealybugs and whiteflies as well as some other pests like mites and thrips. Soap solutions will also kill beneficial insects so limit their use to problem areas. They are nontoxic to humans and many other animals and biodegrade quickly in the soil. Mix 1 teaspoon to a tablespoon (start with lowst dosage) of soap per gallon of water. Test on a few leaves before treating the whole plant. Watch for a return of the problem and spray a second time 7-10 days later if necessary. [The Organic Gardeners Handbook of Natural Insect and Disease Control] Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Geoff Brady >To: "'arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu'" >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mealybugs on Hibiscus >Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 08:22:12 -0700 > >I believe (mostly certain) I have mealybugs on my red hibiscus. The >flowers >are covered with white powder and I can see little furry cretins. The >plants are almost 4 years old and usually thrive quite well. Most summers >they bloom and are very beautiful. > >What is the best way to get rid of these pests. I don't want them >spreading >to my citrus or garden. I read on the web that chemical treatment is >ineffective. I also read that soap sprays are effective, but also can >affect good bugs as well. Please help. > >Geoff Brady >Chandler, AZ >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net Thu Jun 20 05:42:29 2002 From: imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net (odm) Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 22:42:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Leaving Grass Clippings on Lawn References: <200206192328.g5JNSUx10970@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000001c21822$bbad0bb0$c553530c@delljor9501> ----- Original Message ----- From: > Is it good to leave the clipping from your lawn on the lawn when mowing. (mulching) Does then heat here lead thatch build-up. I have a Santa Ana lawn and my experience is the grass starts to turn yellow after a few weeks when the grass clippings are left on the lawn using a Honda lawnmower with a mulching blade. I don't believe it contributes to thatch buildup but that, because of our low ambient humidity, the clippings dry out and decompose too slowly blocking out light and air. -Olin From markdb@cableaz.com Thu Jun 20 14:14:01 2002 From: markdb@cableaz.com (markdb@cableaz.com) Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 07:14:01 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206201414.g5KEE1x17352@Ag.arizona.edu> Is there an avocado tree variety which can successfully be grown in Mesa,AZ which will bear fruit? If so, do they require more than one one tree to successfully propagate? From cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu Thu Jun 20 16:01:58 2002 From: cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu (Carol Noyes) Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 09:01:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pond and Water Feature Seminar Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020620090142.00ab9500@ag.arizona.edu> > Pond and Water Feature Seminar > July 12th, 10:00am to 3:00pm > EAC Payson Campus Community Room > > Featured speaker, Paul Holdeman, owner of The Garden Gnome in Phoenix, > will provide a special presentation on ponds and water features. The > program will cover the benefits of having a pond/water feature, the Paul > Holdeman pond philosophy, water conservation, using native species, common > problems and troubleshooting, wildlife attraction/exclusion, vector > control, location and site design and pond construction. Handouts and > lunch will also be provided. > > To cover Paul's travel expenses, handouts and lunch, we will charge $15 > per person to attend the seminar. To register and for more information, > please email me at or call the Gila County > Cooperative Extension office at (928) 425-7179. Please register by July > 8th. > > If you have a disability and require any special accomodations, please > make a request when you register. > > Speaker biography: > "Paul Holdeman has been a licensed Valley landscape contractor since 1995. > After receiving his BA from ASU (longer ago than he likes to admit), he > has attended numerous continuing education courses regarding many > different aspects of landscape and gardening, including classes given by > the Desert Botanical Gardens and Arizona Municipal Water User's > Association, as well as continuing education courses provided by Aquascape > Design themselves, which keep him up to date on the latest and greatest > ponding technologies. His wife Barbi has a degree in landscape design and > has attended many of the same continuing education courses. Life, however, > is an ongoing educational process, and we strive to always improve upon > and supplement our knowledge in our areas of expertise. > > "Promoting sustainable landscape designs, as well as educating our clients > on the benefits of working with native plant material and good xeriscape > design principles, is our way of preserving our natural resources in tha > Arizona environment. In keeping with this philosophy, we have chosen to > advocate a proven pond construction method that comes as close to Mother > Nature's designs as possible. We build self-sustaining, ecologically > balanced, living water gardens. There is no concrete in our work; the > biofalls, mechanical skimmer, beneficial bacteria, plants and fish work > together to creat an ecologically balanced system." > > > Christopher Jones, Extension Agent > Agriculture and Natural Resources Programs > > The University of Arizona > Gila County Cooperative Extension > 1177 Monroe Street > Globe, AZ 85501 > > Ph: (520) 425-7179 > FAX: (520) 425-0265 > E-mail: ckjones@ag.arizona.edu From az_2@hotmail.com Thu Jun 20 18:56:17 2002 From: az_2@hotmail.com (az_2@hotmail.com) Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 11:56:17 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206201856.g5KIuHx10239@Ag.arizona.edu> Do you have any lath house or similar plans available on-line for downloading? Thanks From k.a.swanson@att.net Thu Jun 20 21:35:13 2002 From: k.a.swanson@att.net (k.a.swanson@att.net) Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 14:35:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206202135.g5KLZDx10503@Ag.arizona.edu> My Octopus Agave lower 'leaves' are turning yellow from the center outward. The plant is on the North side of the house, but gets full sun exposure. Can you tell me why this is happening? If it is a watering problem, how much water and how frequently should it be getting. It was transplanted early in 2001. Thanks for any info you can give me. From dedangelo@hotmail.com Thu Jun 20 21:42:08 2002 From: dedangelo@hotmail.com (dedangelo@hotmail.com) Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 14:42:08 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206202142.g5KLg8x11786@Ag.arizona.edu> i would like to plant some perennials....i've purchased a few in the last few weeks and have difficulty keeping them alive, even though it says on the tag that they take full sun. is it ridiculous to think about planting anything outside when its 110 degrees during the day? if anyone can help, i would appreciate it. thanks From kato.haws@asu.edu Thu Jun 20 22:57:30 2002 From: kato.haws@asu.edu (kato.haws@asu.edu) Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 15:57:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206202257.g5KMvUx27303@Ag.arizona.edu> Got to kill morning glory. Some far from garden, but irrigation runs over that yard, and into the garden. Some is actually entrenched in a raised vegetable bed. From PhancieAz@yahoo.com Thu Jun 20 23:53:09 2002 From: PhancieAz@yahoo.com (PhancieAz@yahoo.com) Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 16:53:09 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206202353.g5KNr9x07199@Ag.arizona.edu> I am interested in the Master Gardener Program and was looking for a class sooner than Jan. are there any coming up? I am in the Mesa East Valley Rose Society and was told there may be one next month if so please let me know so I may sign up. Thank you very much. Sincerely, Stephanie Pietz From watsontl@mindspring.com Fri Jun 21 02:01:53 2002 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 19:01:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200206202142.g5KLg8x11786@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <003201c218c7$9e3c36a0$cd31b83f@oemcomputer> This is definitely the wrong time of year to establish new plants. Wait until it just begins to cool off in the fall and try again. The air will be cool enough for plant health, and the warmth left in the soil will encourage good root growth. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2002 2:42 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > i would like to plant some perennials....i've purchased a few in the last few weeks and have difficulty keeping them alive, even though it says on the tag that they take full sun. is it ridiculous to think about planting anything outside when its 110 degrees during the day? if anyone can help, i would appreciate it. > thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Jun 21 02:21:36 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 02:21:36 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] morning glory Message-ID: Morning glory is pretty easy to pull up, especially if the soil is moist. Otherwise, spot-treating with roundup should get rid of it (just be careful that no roundup hits the plants you want to keep). Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: kato.haws@asu.edu >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 15:57:30 -0700 (MST) > >Got to kill morning glory. Some far from garden, but irrigation runs over >that yard, and into the garden. Some is actually entrenched in a raised >vegetable bed. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From umiller@azdps.com Fri Jun 21 02:11:44 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 19:11:44 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Planting Perennials In-Reply-To: <003201c218c7$9e3c36a0$cd31b83f@oemcomputer> Message-ID: This is so true. But even when you think that it's cool enough to plant in the fall, it can get hot again. I made that mistake a couple of years ago. It got cool in September so I went out and bought various plants and planted them. The following week the temperatures went over 100 degrees again and each plant bit the dust. So it's important not to jump the gun. Just because the flowers are in the nurseries and home centers doesn't mean that it's safe to plant them yet. I usually wait until October now. Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Tom & Linda Watson Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2002 7:02 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu; dedangelo@hotmail.com Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page This is definitely the wrong time of year to establish new plants. Wait until it just begins to cool off in the fall and try again. The air will be cool enough for plant health, and the warmth left in the soil will encourage good root growth. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2002 2:42 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > i would like to plant some perennials....i've purchased a few in the last few weeks and have difficulty keeping them alive, even though it says on the tag that they take full sun. is it ridiculous to think about planting anything outside when its 110 degrees during the day? if anyone can help, i would appreciate it. > thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From stevendrew@mindspring.com Fri Jun 21 03:20:35 2002 From: stevendrew@mindspring.com (Steven C. Drew) Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 20:20:35 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200206202142.g5KLg8x11786@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <001e01c218d2$9e68eaf0$69cf56d1@Global> Yes, it is ridiculous to plant most perennials this time of year but for some of us that like to push the envelope, you can try many varieties. Granted, these plants will do much better planted in the spring or fall but if you can water 2-3 times a day and provide some temporary shade in the afternoon you can get some stuff to grow now too. But careful planning and purusal of the many great books on Southwest and Arizona gardening will help fill the void until the weather cools off. (and save some money too) Avoid the large do-it-yourself garden centers and go to a real full service nursery and the folks there can help you select some things to try. If you do plant anything, add at least 3" of mulch to the surface of the soil to help keep things cooler. Perhaps a few container plants with just morning sun can give you some tempory color and foliage until things cool off. Although sometimes it saves a lot of time and water to just dig a hole and bury a $20 bill in it and compost it. Steve Drew ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2002 2:42 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > i would like to plant some perennials....i've purchased a few in the last few weeks and have difficulty keeping them alive, even though it says on the tag that they take full sun. is it ridiculous to think about planting anything outside when its 110 degrees during the day? if anyone can help, i would appreciate it. > thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From stevendrew@mindspring.com Fri Jun 21 03:28:32 2002 From: stevendrew@mindspring.com (Steven C. Drew) Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 20:28:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200206202353.g5KNr9x07199@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <002401c218d3$b9396e30$69cf56d1@Global> The upcoming class starting in July is all filled up. There were more applicants than space available. Many were encouraged to apply again for the Jan classs. I hope that you can attend the Jan class. Master Gardener Program is really fun, you meet a lot of committed and dedicated people and have a chance to share what you know and have learned with many other people. And you get to keep on learning. Please try again and get your application in early. Steve Drew ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2002 4:53 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I am interested in the Master Gardener Program and was looking for a class sooner than Jan. are there any coming up? I am in the Mesa East Valley Rose Society and was told there may be one next month if so please let me know so I may sign up. Thank you very much. Sincerely, Stephanie Pietz > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Jun 21 04:54:32 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 04:54:32 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] octopus agave, yellow lower leaves Message-ID: One thought -- I've noticed that allowing irrigation water to hit the leaves can cause yellow spotting. How are you irrigating? More likely is sunburn and yellowing from heat stress. (This is usually temporary during periods of high heat). Light shade now will help improve the color of the leaves. I water my agaves every 7-14 days now, letting the water sink in slowly to a depth of 18-24 inches. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: k.a.swanson@att.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 14:35:13 -0700 (MST) > >My Octopus Agave lower 'leaves' are turning yellow from the center outward. >The plant is on the North side of the house, but gets full sun exposure. >Can you tell me why this is happening? > >If it is a watering problem, how much water and how frequently should it be >getting. It was transplanted early in 2001. > >Thanks for any info you can give me. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/a _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From copper@bargainsail.com Fri Jun 21 14:08:00 2002 From: copper@bargainsail.com (Copper Bittner) Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 07:08:00 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Master Gardener class In-Reply-To: <002401c218d3$b9396e30$69cf56d1@Global> Message-ID: In addition to Steve's reply: You can find the information online at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/mgs/mg-broch.htm Steve's right...there are many fine people to meet in the Master Gardener program. The classes are informative and fun. Sign up early! Copper Bittner Master Gardener Maricopa County Chandler, AZ ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2002 4:53 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I am interested in the Master Gardener Program and was looking for a class sooner than Jan. are there any coming up? I am in the Mesa East Valley Rose Society and was told there may be one next month if so please let me know so I may sign up. Thank you very much. Sincerely, Stephanie Pietz > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From kvs556@aol.com Fri Jun 21 15:11:58 2002 From: kvs556@aol.com (kvs556@aol.com) Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 08:11:58 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206211511.g5LFBwx15057@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a Shamel Ash tree that has rust coloring running through the center of the leaves. Since the emergence of new leaves, there is no new growth this year. The tree was planted last spring and survived the summer last year without any problems. I have other Shamel Ash, Arizona Ash, Live Oak, Mesquite and Citrus and they all appear to be doing well. I appreciate any advice you can offer. Thank You, Ken Scheub From j.schude@att.net Fri Jun 21 15:47:31 2002 From: j.schude@att.net (j.schude@att.net) Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 08:47:31 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206211547.g5LFlVx21983@Ag.arizona.edu> i live in maricopa county,and i want to know if it is allright to use ice plant ground cover to cover myproptery ,i dont like the loog of stone thanks jim From j.schude@att.net Fri Jun 21 16:01:20 2002 From: j.schude@att.net (j.schude@att.net) Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 09:01:20 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206211601.g5LG1Kx24729@Ag.arizona.edu> where can i buy ice plant in maricopa county thanks jim From Steve.Sheard@motorola.com Fri Jun 21 17:15:42 2002 From: Steve.Sheard@motorola.com (Sheard Stephen-r21680) Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 10:15:42 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: I know there have been a few Master Gardeners already responded on this, but I am one of those amateurs who seems to have found the right mix and loves to push the spectrum. I have 4 beds where I grow perennials. I start to pull my spring flowers about Mid may and plant perennials. For the spring I have petunias growing and I still have one bed that has not burned out. So this bed may not get planted out for summer for another week or two. In the summer I grow Vinka, Celocia, Marigolds, Zinnias. In my two front beds that I planted with Vinka two weeks ago I sprinkled Zinnia seeds between them - The Zinnias are already bigger than the bedding plants I put in. Vinka does very well once established - it is sensitive to OVER WATERING - yes even in this heat. Zinnias love the heat and make wonderful cut flowers for the house. You do not have to put up with Brown & Green for the summer! If you want to visit my yard - send me an email. Regards Steve Sheard (Not a Master Gardener) -----Original Message----- From: dedangelo@hotmail.com [mailto:dedangelo@hotmail.com] Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2002 2:42 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page i would like to plant some perennials....i've purchased a few in the last few weeks and have difficulty keeping them alive, even though it says on the tag that they take full sun. is it ridiculous to think about planting anything outside when its 110 degrees during the day? if anyone can help, i would appreciate it. thanks _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From jjn@a-glitch.com Fri Jun 21 18:41:18 2002 From: jjn@a-glitch.com (jjn@a-glitch.com) Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 11:41:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206211841.g5LIfIx26883@Ag.arizona.edu> From jjn@a-glitch.com Fri Jun 21 18:44:57 2002 From: jjn@a-glitch.com (jjn@a-glitch.com) Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 11:44:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206211844.g5LIivx27655@Ag.arizona.edu> I need to know if you can trim summer squash in order to create space in my garden,the crazy things are taking over? Please reply before my beans become squashe.HeHe! From Rod McKusick" Ken, There could be any number of things which are the cause of no new growth such as improper irrigation, tree was root bound when planted, planting hole was container size and planted in compacted soil or caliche in the soil hindering drainage. With more info I could be more helpful. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: kvs556@aol.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Friday, June 21, 2002 8:15 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I have a Shamel Ash tree that has rust coloring running through the center of the leaves. Since the emergence of new leaves, there is no new growth this year. The tree was planted last spring and survived the summer last year without any problems. I have other Shamel Ash, Arizona Ash, Live Oak, Mesquite and Citrus and they all appear to be doing well. I appreciate any advice you can offer. Thank You, Ken Scheub > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From catsmow@aol.com Sat Jun 22 03:49:01 2002 From: catsmow@aol.com (catsmow@aol.com) Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 20:49:01 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206220349.g5M3n1x26354@Ag.arizona.edu> My tarragon (artemesia draganus) has a bubbley white mold(?) at the leaf axis in several places. The plant has been exceptionally healthy and virbrant and is outside in the garden. I thought at first it might be scale, but it just is too moist and looks like soap suds. Any ideas? I keep a mostly chemical free environment using only soap sprays when needed. Thanks for your help. From imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net Sat Jun 22 06:26:52 2002 From: imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net (odm) Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 23:26:52 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bubbly Residue on Tarragon Leaf References: <200206220349.g5M3n1x26354@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000401c219b5$d1f89760$2852530c@delljor9501> Might be a spittle bug. Do a google search using key word "spittle bug" to confirm. Lots of good photos of the bug and its spittle. I usually see it on stems but it can also be on leaves. The bug lives inside its "spittle" and can be rinse off or wiped off. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: To: > My tarragon (artemesia draganus) has a bubbley white mold(?) at the leaf axis in several places. The plant has been exceptionally healthy and virbrant and is outside in the garden. I thought at first it might be scale, but it just is too moist and looks like soap suds. Any ideas? I keep a mostly chemical free environment using only soap sprays when needed. From dragonheartaz@juno.com Sat Jun 22 06:36:28 2002 From: dragonheartaz@juno.com (Dale E Southworth) Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 23:36:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Using coffee grounds as a soil amendment Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020621233548.00b1ca30@ag.arizona.edu> I too would like info on the benefits of coffee grounds added to garden soil. Your assistance is greatly appreciated. Dale Dale E Southworth From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Jun 22 13:40:06 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 13:40:06 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Using coffee grounds as a soil amendment Message-ID: Coffee grounds are regarded as a good component of compost, as a thin mulch and as a soil amendment. Approximate average analysis is 2.0 - 0.3 - 0.3 Additionally, coffee grounds are acidic (good in our alkaline soils) and have a good texture. (Elizabeth Stell, "Secrets to Great Soil") In our neighborhood garden, we routinely add coffee grounds when preparing a bed for planting. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Dale E Southworth (by way of Lucy Bradley >) >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Using coffee grounds as a soil amendment >Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 23:36:28 -0700 > >I too would like info on the benefits of coffee grounds added to garden >soil. Your assistance is greatly appreciated. > >Dale >Dale E Southworth > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From sushi2912@hotmail.com Sat Jun 22 14:37:09 2002 From: sushi2912@hotmail.com (sushi2912@hotmail.com) Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 07:37:09 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206221437.g5MEb9x19620@Ag.arizona.edu> When is the best time to cut back tree like Oleander schrubs in Apache Junction Arizona. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Jun 22 15:35:28 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 15:35:28 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] pruning oleanders Message-ID: Eric A. Johnson, "Pruning, Planting and Care": Prune during warm weather (June). This exposes interior of plant to sunlight, stimulating new flowering wood. Do not prune into globes or squares. Avoid shearing, which reduces flowering wood. Note that all plant parts are poisonous. Do not burn wood. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: sushi2912@hotmail.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 07:37:09 -0700 (MST) > >When is the best time to cut back tree like Oleander schrubs in Apache >Junction Arizona. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From ClaireASP@aol.com Sat Jun 22 17:26:27 2002 From: ClaireASP@aol.com (ClaireASP@aol.com) Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 10:26:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206221726.g5MHQRx02426@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like to plant a Ficus Nitida tree in my yard, but figured that it would be best to wait until the Fall to do so. Then this morning I was scanning the Moon Valley Nursery add, and it said,"Ficus Are Hot Weather Growers...Now's The Time!" What is your opinion; should I plant one now, or wait until the Fall, when it cools down a bit? Thanks for your advise. Claire. From Jonathan Kandell" Message-ID: <004d01c21a20$3af67060$60c88044@oemcomputer> Coffee grounds are like magic here in our desert soils. In our Tucson community garden we routinely add enormous quantities (free in garbage can size bags from Starbucks) as our primary fertilizer and soil conditioner. Theoretically this should be deficient in P but seems to do fine over the years. You keep adding coffee to the soil until the native soil looks brown like good soil. (I'm always amazed how much it takes.) You need to wait at least two weeks for it to mellow--important. Until then your native soil will not merge with the coffee and you won't get the water retension. YOu can tell when it's ready when water soaks in and it no longer smells like coffee but smells like fresh alive soil and when the soil clumps the way it should like chocolate cake. I wouldn't try this except where the soil is very alkaline like Arizona the deserts. jk ----- Original Message ----- From: "Linda Drew" To: ; Sent: Saturday, June 22, 2002 6:40 AM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Re: Using coffee grounds as a soil amendment > > Coffee grounds are regarded as a good component of compost, > as a thin mulch and as a soil amendment. > > Approximate average analysis is 2.0 - 0.3 - 0.3 > Additionally, coffee grounds are acidic (good in our alkaline > soils) and have a good texture. > (Elizabeth Stell, "Secrets to Great Soil") > > In our neighborhood garden, we routinely add coffee grounds > when preparing a bed for planting. > > Linda Drew > Master Gardener > > >From: Dale E Southworth (by way of Lucy Bradley > >) > >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Using coffee grounds as a soil amendment > >Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2002 23:36:28 -0700 > > > >I too would like info on the benefits of coffee grounds added to garden > >soil. Your assistance is greatly appreciated. > > > >Dale > >Dale E Southworth > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Arid_gardener mailing list > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From Rod McKusick" Claire, The nurseries and the landscape contracters have trees to sell and work to finish consequently they work the year round. If they were truthful they would tell you that a tree's chance of survival is better if planted in cooler weather than we are having at the present. In the case of Ficus nitida, because it is frost tender the best time to plant is in late winter after danger of frost has past. If you can get a guarantee from the nursery that the tree will survive the hot weather then go for it, the tree will have a chance to become partially established before winter. If you do plant now be sure next winter if freezing is forecast to cover the tree. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist -----Original Message----- From: ClaireASP@aol.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Saturday, June 22, 2002 10:26 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I would like to plant a Ficus Nitida tree in my yard, but figured that it would be best to wait until the Fall to do so. Then this morning I was scanning the Moon Valley Nursery add, and it said,"Ficus Are Hot Weather Growers...Now's The Time!" What is your opinion; should I plant one now, or wait until the Fall, when it cools down a bit? Thanks for your advise. Claire. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From drgarnett@msn.com Sun Jun 23 02:27:41 2002 From: drgarnett@msn.com (Donald Garnett) Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 19:27:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] citrus in containers Message-ID: ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C21A22.E04DCAC0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Is there a specific guideline for frequency of watering for citrus in con= tainers? We have newly acquired dwarf lemon and dwarf grapefruit trees, less than = 3 =20 years old, each in a 24" pot (temporarily, we hope). We have the watering amounts from AZ 1151, but the guidelines don't cover what watering interv= al should be applied to trees in containers. We are currently watering heavi= ly twice a week. Regards, Don Garnett Tucson ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C21A22.E04DCAC0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Is there a spe= cific guideline for frequency of watering for citrus in containers?
=
We have newly acquired dwarf lemon and dwarf grapefruit trees, less= than 3
years old, each in a 24" pot (temporarily, we hope). = We have the watering
amounts from AZ 1151, but the guidelines = don't cover what watering interval
should be applied to trees = in containers. We are currently watering heavily
twice a week.=
 
    Regards,
&nbs= p;   Don Garnett
    Tucson

------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C21A22.E04DCAC0-- From yarrow@cgmailbox.com Sun Jun 23 01:49:00 2002 From: yarrow@cgmailbox.com (White O'Mornin') Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 18:49:00 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] avocado tree question? References: <200206201414.g5KEE1x17352@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <001e01c21a58$4a40cc40$997d953f@robertde> I too am most interested in the answer to this question but, I think I missed the response.... could someone resend the answer to me, please? Thanks in advance. :-) ~R. A. D~ ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2002 7:14 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Is there an avocado tree variety which can successfully be grown in Mesa,AZ which will bear fruit? If so, do they require more than one one tree to successfully propagate? From gingerb2l@netscape.net Sun Jun 23 20:49:36 2002 From: gingerb2l@netscape.net (gingerb2l@netscape.net) Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 13:49:36 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206232049.g5NKnax16221@Ag.arizona.edu> could you please give me some information on how to grow pinto beans, how often to water, harvesting... From Jonathan Kandell" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_002A_01C21ADE.1E7A7940 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable My Ogen muskmelons plants are doing well well. But some of the melons = have rot at one end and others have white soft spots on upper part of = skin. Is this rot from water? Is it sun burn in the latter case? = (It's been 106 for the past few weeks.) Can I cover the melons with = newspaper to shield them from the sun if I leave the leaves exposed? I = have the melons sitting on small rocks to keep them off the damp ground = in the pit; is this responsible? Thanks as usual. jk Tucson AZ ------=_NextPart_000_002A_01C21ADE.1E7A7940 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
My Ogen muskmelons plants are = doing well=20 well.  But some of the melons have rot at one end and others have = white=20 soft spots on upper part of skin.  Is this rot from water?  Is = it sun=20 burn in the latter case?  (It's been 106 for the past few = weeks.)  Can=20 I cover the melons with newspaper to shield them from the sun if I leave = the=20 leaves exposed?  I have the melons sitting on small rocks to keep = them off=20 the damp ground in the pit; is this responsible?  Thanks as=20 usual.
 
jk
Tucson AZ
------=_NextPart_000_002A_01C21ADE.1E7A7940-- From Jonathan Kandell" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C21AE1.186DAD80 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Another melon question. I notice that my melon fruits get quite hot in = the 106 degree sun. Is this ok or will they be cooked by the time I eat = them? jk ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C21AE1.186DAD80 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Another melon question. I notice that my melon = fruits get=20 quite hot in the 106 degree sun.  Is this ok or will they be cooked = by the=20 time I eat them?
 
jk
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C21AE1.186DAD80-- From wiesmuhl@imap3.asu.edu Mon Jun 24 01:35:58 2002 From: wiesmuhl@imap3.asu.edu (wiesmuhl@imap3.asu.edu) Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2002 18:35:58 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206240135.g5O1Zvx08299@Ag.arizona.edu> How can I root a rubber plant? I tried putting cuttings into soil & that didn't work. I now have some cuttings in water and they have developed white "bumps" in several joints. Will these become roots & then will I be able to put these in pots for plants in doors? From crymer@Ag.arizona.edu Mon Jun 24 18:12:23 2002 From: crymer@Ag.arizona.edu (Cathy Rymer) Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 11:12:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200206221726.g5MHQRx02426@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20020624110925.00ba0ac0@ag.arizona.edu> Hi Claire, In addition to the information Rod gave you might like to know..... Ficus are tremendous water users (second only to ash and cottonwood), contrary to how they may be advertised. In fact, they are not grown locally - most come in from California. They grow to be huge trees with a canopy diameter of 30 feet or more, sometimes too big for most yards. They also create very dense shade as they mature. In a lawn situation, this causes the grass to die leaving bare spots. They are notorious for developing buttressing roots that can heave sidewalks and fences if planted too close. There are many other choices in desert-adapted trees. Some have beautiful blooms that attract hummingbirds and provide much needed shade here in the Valley. Trees are an investment and the choice is yours, I just thought you would like to have some facts so you can make an informed decision. Kind regards, Cathy At 10:26 AM 06/22/2002 -0700, ClaireASP@aol.com wrote: >I would like to plant a Ficus Nitida tree in my yard, but figured that it >would be best to wait until the Fall to do so. Then this morning I was >scanning the Moon Valley Nursery add, and it said,"Ficus Are Hot Weather >Growers...Now's The Time!" What is your opinion; should I plant one now, >or wait until the Fall, when it cools down a bit? Thanks for your advise. >Claire. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Catherine Rymer Instructional Specialist, Sr., Urban Horticulture Certified Arborist WC-5216 University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Phoenix, AZ 85040 http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ From debteach8@aol.com Mon Jun 24 19:03:05 2002 From: debteach8@aol.com (debteach8@aol.com) Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 12:03:05 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206241903.g5OJ35x22524@Ag.arizona.edu> How can I put in a raised garden in my backyard? I have bermuda grass all over and I am also an owner af an adopted desert tortoise so I have to think organic. Can I lay black tarp on the ground and then add my wood frame on top to keep the bermuda grass from getting in? I really do not want to dig up the bermuda grass first. Remember I am putting in a raised bed with a planting depth of around 12 inches. Thanks for your help. From imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net Mon Jun 24 19:16:13 2002 From: imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net (odm) Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 12:16:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Propagating Rubber Plants References: <200206240135.g5O1Zvx08299@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <007401c21bb3$b5c556a0$e051530c@delljor9501> ----- Original Message ----- From: > How can I root a rubber plant? I tried putting cuttings into soil & that didn't work. I now have some cuttings in water and they have developed white "bumps" in several joints. Will these become roots & then will I be able to put these in pots for plants in doors? Sounds like it is working okay and they can be transferred to moist soil when the water roots form. But they will still need to form roots in the soil - water roots are not quite the same. If you continue to have problems, try airlayering. It is a relatively fast, reliable method of getting a rather large transplant from rubber plant, fiddle leaf fig, nerium oleander, croton, etc. The idea is to interrupt the translocation of nutrients from the branch tip to the roots by either gridling the stem or making a upward-slanting cut (or cuts) into the stem. This causes roots to form at the cut. In either case, cover the cut with wet green moss, wrap the moss with plastic to keep the moisture in, then cover that with aluminum foil to block out light. The method is illustrated in the MG manual at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/propagation/asexual.html An advantage of girdling is that roots will form evenly around the cut. A disadvantage is it may sometimes result in water and nutrient deficits if upward translocation is interrupted by cutting through too much of the the xylem. I usually girdle the stem if it is as thick as a pencil and use the upward slanting cut when it is not as thick. Olin An advantage of making cuts into the stem is to interrutpt the flow of nutrients from the branch tip through back to the root > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From wilhardt@mindspring.com Mon Jun 24 19:49:29 2002 From: wilhardt@mindspring.com (wilhardt@mindspring.com) Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 12:49:29 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206241949.g5OJnTx01382@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a Chinese Elm that seems to drop leaves all year around. They are yellow before they drop and a constant mess to clean out of the desert rocks. Is it lacking something ? Deep water ? Iron? I live in Chandler and have it on a bubbler 3 times a week. From ASUsped@aol.com Mon Jun 24 21:23:01 2002 From: ASUsped@aol.com (ASUsped@aol.com) Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 17:23:01 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] coffee grounds with roses!!!!! Message-ID: <37.2969330b.2a48e7b5@aol.com> --part1_37.2969330b.2a48e7b5_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello every one, About a couple of months ago I planted Golden Showers rose and it was doing great at first but then it started getting yellow leaves from aphids but hosing it down with water helped it with that problem. 10 days ago, I put some coffee grounds around it and some big cedar bulk mulch and it was amazing results; my rose looks much better and not as sickly looking as it used to be. Now, my question is which plants I could use coffee grounds for and how much and how frequent? thank you, Mike --part1_37.2969330b.2a48e7b5_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit      
            Hello every one,

 About a couple of months ago I planted Golden Showers rose and it was doing great at first but then it started getting yellow leaves from aphids but hosing it down with water helped it with that problem.

 10 days ago, I put some coffee grounds around it and some big cedar bulk mulch and it was amazing results; my rose looks much better and not as sickly looking as it used to be.

  Now, my question is which plants I could use coffee grounds for and how much and how frequent? thank you, Mike

  --part1_37.2969330b.2a48e7b5_boundary-- From debbym@asu.edu Mon Jun 24 21:50:26 2002 From: debbym@asu.edu (Deborah Monninger) Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 14:50:26 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] purple orchid tree dying??? Message-ID: This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. --Boundary_(ID_JROe6Fi8snkBvFfikoF2kQ) Content-type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I planted a purple orchid tree in my yard about a year ago. It seemed to do ok until late winter this year when all the leaves turned brown. It did bloom this spring (though not prolifically) and also had pods on it for awhile which have now mostly dropped off. It isn't leafing out much now, although there are a few new leaves. I deep water the tree once per week and it also receives watering from sprinkler. I've grown this tree before (in previous house I've since sold) and don't remember having these problems. Does anyone have any suggestions? I'm in Tempe, AZ. Debby Monninger ASU Foundation 480-965-0176 debbym@asu.edu --Boundary_(ID_JROe6Fi8snkBvFfikoF2kQ) Content-type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable purple orchid tree dying???

I = planted a purple orchid tree in my yard about a year ago.  It = seemed to do ok until late winter this year when all the leaves turned = brown.  It did bloom this spring (though not prolifically) = and also had = pods on it for awhile which have now mostly dropped off.  It isn't = leafing out much now, although there are a few new leaves.  I deep = water the tree once per week and it also receives watering from = sprinkler.  I've grown this tree before (in previous house I've since = sold) and don't remember having these problems.  Does anyone have = any suggestions?  I'm in Tempe, AZ.

Debby Monninger

ASU Foundation

480-965-0176

debbym@asu.edu

= --Boundary_(ID_JROe6Fi8snkBvFfikoF2kQ)-- From Rod McKusick" Trees will drop their leaves when they are not receiving adequate irrigation. You didn't say how much water was being applied but you should be DEEP watering only once a week this time of year. Deep watering means watering to a depth of 3 feet. You can determine the depth the water has penetrated by inserting a steel probe into the ground after you have watered, it will go easily to the depth the water has penetrated. Check out this site for more info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: wilhardt@mindspring.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, June 24, 2002 12:50 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I have a Chinese Elm that seems to drop leaves all year around. They are yellow before they drop and a constant mess to clean out of the desert rocks. Is it lacking something ? >Deep water ? >Iron? >I live in Chandler and have it on a bubbler 3 times a week. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From yarrow@cgmailbox.com Tue Jun 25 00:07:31 2002 From: yarrow@cgmailbox.com (White O'Mornin') Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 17:07:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] avocado tree question? References: <200206201414.g5KEE1x17352@Ag.arizona.edu> <001e01c21a58$4a40cc40$997d953f@robertde> Message-ID: <001801c21bdc$61a73ba0$fd7d953f@robertde> Is my mail getting through to the list? Have I been removed from this list? Or are you all busy and I'm impatient? ~R. A. D~ ----- Original Message ----- From: "White O'Mornin'" To: Sent: Saturday, June 22, 2002 6:49 PM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] avocado tree question? > I too am most interested in the answer to this question but, I think I > missed the response.... could someone resend the answer to me, please? > Thanks in advance. :-) > > ~R. A. D~ > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: > Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2002 7:14 AM > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > > > Is there an avocado tree variety which can successfully be grown in > Mesa,AZ which will bear fruit? If so, do they require more than one one > tree to successfully propagate? From sjbass@qwest.net Tue Jun 25 00:47:06 2002 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 17:47:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] avocado tree question? References: <200206201414.g5KEE1x17352@Ag.arizona.edu> <001e01c21a58$4a40cc40$997d953f@robertde> <001801c21bdc$61a73ba0$fd7d953f@robertde> Message-ID: <3D17BD8A.98B42780@qwest.net> I would suggest contacting the Arizona Chapter of the California Rare Fruit Growers. The following link will take you to their web page where you will find phone numbers and e-mail addresses for the Chairman and Secretary of the club. I'm sure they would be happy to give you information on the best varieties for the Phoenix metro area. Sorry for the delay in getting an answer to you. We are all volunteers answering questions so sometimes it can take a little longer getting all of the questions answered. Sue Bass Master Gardener White O'Mornin' wrote: > Is my mail getting through to the list? > Have I been removed from this list? > Or are you all busy and I'm impatient? > > ~R. A. D~ > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "White O'Mornin'" > To: > Sent: Saturday, June 22, 2002 6:49 PM > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] avocado tree question? > > > I too am most interested in the answer to this question but, I think I > > missed the response.... could someone resend the answer to me, please? > > Thanks in advance. :-) > > > > ~R. A. D~ > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: > > To: > > Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2002 7:14 AM > > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > > > > > > Is there an avocado tree variety which can successfully be grown in > > Mesa,AZ which will bear fruit? If so, do they require more than one one > > tree to successfully propagate? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Administrator Tue Jun 25 00:54:20 2002 From: Administrator (Administrator) Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 17:54:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] ScanMail Message: To Recipient file blocking settings matched and action taken. Message-ID: <01ca01c21be2$d7047e70$fe00005a@central.com> ScanMail for Microsoft Exchange has blocked an attachment. Sender = adatech Recipient(s) = Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject = [Arid_gardener] Fw: README Scanning Time = 06/24/2002 17:54:19 Action on file blocking: The attachment README.mpg.bat matches the file blocking settings. ScanMail has Deleted it. From sjbass@qwest.net Tue Jun 25 01:06:10 2002 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 18:06:10 -0700 (US Mountain Standard Time) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning squash References: <200206211844.g5LIivx27655@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3D17C202.000001.02343@pavilion.qwest.net> --------------Boundary-00=_AQL8QL80000000000000 Content-Type: Multipart/Alternative; boundary="------------Boundary-00=_AQL8LVC0000000000000" --------------Boundary-00=_AQL8LVC0000000000000 Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="windows-1257" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Squash, and all members of the cucurbit family make long runners and take= up a lot of space. In Desert Gardening by George Brookbank, he states that = "it pays to keep these runners from spreading too far. It also pays to pinch out 4 or 5 inches of soft growth at the ends of strong runners. This cau= ses side shoots to develop and the plant becomes more dense and compact. Lon= g runners produce a certain number of flowers on their mature vines, but th= ey produce many more on the numerous side shoots that develop from tip pinch= ing =2E =0D I hope this helps. Perhaps another gardening will share their experience with reining in squash.=0D Sue Bass=0D -------Original Message-------=0D =0D From: jjn@a-glitch.com=0D Date: Friday, June 21, 2002 11:45:51 AM=0D To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=0D Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page=0D =0D I need to know if you can trim summer =0D squash in order to create space in my garden,the crazy things are taking over?=0D Please reply before my beans become squashe.HeHe!=0D =0D _______________________________________________=0D Arid_gardener mailing list=0D Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu=0D http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener=0D =0D =2E --------------Boundary-00=_AQL8LVC0000000000000 Content-Type: Text/HTML; charset="windows-1257" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable =0D =0A
Squash, and all members of the cucurbit family make long runne= rs and=20 take up a lot of space.  In Desert Gardening by George Brookba= nk, he=20 states that "it pays to keep these runners from spreading too far.&= nbsp;=20 It also pays to pinch out 4 or 5 inches of soft growth at the ends = of=20 strong runners.  This causes side shoots to develop and the pl= ant=20 becomes more dense and compact.  Long runners produce a certai= n=20 number of flowers on their mature vines, but they produce many more= on the=20 numerous side shoots that develop from tip pinching". 
I hope this helps.  Perhaps another gardening will share = their=20 experience with reining in squash.
Sue Bass
 -------Original=20 Message-------
 
From: jjn@a-glitch.com
Date: Friday= , June 21,=20 2002 11:45:51 AM
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizo= na.edu
Subject:=20 [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
 
I need to know if you can trim summer
squash i= n order=20 to create space in my garden,the crazy things are taking over?
P= lease=20 reply before my beans become=20 squashe.HeHe!

______________________________________________= _
Arid_gardener=20 mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizo= na.Edu
http:= //Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener

.
=09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09
____________________________________________________
  IncrediMail - Email has finally evolved -=20 Click=20 Here --------------Boundary-00=_AQL8LVC0000000000000-- --------------Boundary-00=_AQL8QL80000000000000 Content-Type: image/gif Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 Content-ID: R0lGODlhFAAPALMIAP9gAM9gAM8vAM9gL/+QL5AvAGAvAP9gL////wAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAACH/C05FVFNDQVBFMi4wAwEAAAAh+QQJFAAIACwAAAAAFAAPAAAEVRDJSaudJuudrxlEKI6B URlCUYyjKpgYAKSgOBSCDEuGDKgrAtC3Q/R+hkPJEDgYCjpKr5A8WK9OaPFZwHoPqm3366VKyeRt E30tVVRscMHDqV/u+AgAIfkEBWQACAAsAAAAABQADwAABBIQyUmrvTjrzbv/YCiOZGmeaAQAIfkE CRQACAAsAgABABAADQAABEoQIUOrpXIOwrsPxiQUheeRAgUA49YNhbCqK1kS9grQhXGAhsDBUJgZ AL2Dcqkk7ogFpvRAokSn0p4PO6UIuUsQggSmFjKXdAgRAQAh+QQFCgAIACwAAAAAFAAPAAAEEhDJ Sau9OOvNu/9gKI5kaZ5oBAAh+QQJFAAIACwCAAEAEAANAAAEShAhQ6ulcg7Cuw/GJBSF55ECBQDj 1g2FsKorWRL2CtCFcYCGwMFQmBkAvYNyqSTuiAWm9ECiRKfSng87pQi5SxCCBKYWMpd0CBEBACH5 BAVkAAgALAAAAAAUAA8AAAQSEMlJq7046827/2AojmRpnmgEADs= --------------Boundary-00=_AQL8QL80000000000000-- From PNIMAIL1.PNI.COM@pni.com Tue Jun 25 01:12:06 2002 From: PNIMAIL1.PNI.COM@pni.com (PNIMAIL1.PNI.COM@pni.com) Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 18:12:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Report to Recipient(s) Message-ID: Incident Information:- Originator: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu Recipients: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu, janie.magruder@arizonarepublic.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fw: README WARNING: The README.mpg.bat attachment you received was infected with the W32/Yaha.g@MM virus. The file attachment was not successfully cleaned and has been quarantined. If you need access to this attachment, please contact the sender. From sjbass@qwest.net Tue Jun 25 03:19:41 2002 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 20:19:41 -0700 (US Mountain Standard Time) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Information on Lath Houses References: <200206201856.g5KIuHx10239@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3D17E14D.000007.02343@pavilion.qwest.net> --------------Boundary-00=_TWR8WCW0000000000000 Content-Type: Multipart/Alternative; boundary="------------Boundary-00=_TWR8RN00000000000000" --------------Boundary-00=_TWR8RN00000000000000 Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="windows-1257" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Here are a couple of sites I located by doing a search on the Internet.=20 They may be of help to you. The second one listed sells actual plans.=0D http://www.rosebay.org/chapterweb/rosebay/lath_houses.html=0D http://h2othouse.com/index1.html=0D Sue Bass=0D =0D -------Original Message-------=0D =0D From: az_2@hotmail.com=0D Date: Thursday, June 20, 2002 11:57:51 AM=0D To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=0D Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page=0D =0D Do you have any lath house or similar plans available on-line for downloading?=0D =0D Thanks=0D =0D _______________________________________________=0D Arid_gardener mailing list=0D Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu=0D http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener=0D =0D =2E --------------Boundary-00=_TWR8RN00000000000000 Content-Type: Text/HTML; charset="windows-1257" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable =0D =0A
Here are a couple of sites I located by doing a search on the=20 Internet.  They may be of help to you.  The second one li= sted=20 sells actual plans.
http://www.rosebay.org/chapterweb/rosebay/lath_houses.html
http://h2othouse.com/inde= x1.html
Sue Bass
 
-------Original Message-------<= /I>
 
From: az_2@hotmail.com
Date: Thursd= ay, June=20 20, 2002 11:57:51 AM
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizo= na.edu
Subject:=20 [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
 
Do you have any lath house or similar plans availa= ble=20 on-line for=20 downloading?

Thanks

_________________________________= ______________
Arid_gardener=20 mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizo= na.Edu
http:= //Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener

.
=09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09
____________________________________________________
  IncrediMail - Email has finally evolved -=20 Click=20 Here --------------Boundary-00=_TWR8RN00000000000000-- --------------Boundary-00=_TWR8WCW0000000000000 Content-Type: image/gif Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 Content-ID: R0lGODlhFAAPALMIAP9gAM9gAM8vAM9gL/+QL5AvAGAvAP9gL////wAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAACH/C05FVFNDQVBFMi4wAwEAAAAh+QQJFAAIACwAAAAAFAAPAAAEVRDJSaudJuudrxlEKI6B URlCUYyjKpgYAKSgOBSCDEuGDKgrAtC3Q/R+hkPJEDgYCjpKr5A8WK9OaPFZwHoPqm3366VKyeRt E30tVVRscMHDqV/u+AgAIfkEBWQACAAsAAAAABQADwAABBIQyUmrvTjrzbv/YCiOZGmeaAQAIfkE CRQACAAsAgABABAADQAABEoQIUOrpXIOwrsPxiQUheeRAgUA49YNhbCqK1kS9grQhXGAhsDBUJgZ AL2Dcqkk7ogFpvRAokSn0p4PO6UIuUsQggSmFjKXdAgRAQAh+QQFCgAIACwAAAAAFAAPAAAEEhDJ Sau9OOvNu/9gKI5kaZ5oBAAh+QQJFAAIACwCAAEAEAANAAAEShAhQ6ulcg7Cuw/GJBSF55ECBQDj 1g2FsKorWRL2CtCFcYCGwMFQmBkAvYNyqSTuiAWm9ECiRKfSng87pQi5SxCCBKYWMpd0CBEBACH5 BAVkAAgALAAAAAAUAA8AAAQSEMlJq7046827/2AojmRpnmgEADs= --------------Boundary-00=_TWR8WCW0000000000000-- From stevendrew@mindspring.com Tue Jun 25 04:33:13 2002 From: stevendrew@mindspring.com (Steven C. Drew) Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 21:33:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Avacodo Message-ID: <004a01c21c01$6c3c4770$42ce56d1@Global> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0047_01C21BC6.BE757B00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Mark, Sorry no one got back to you regarding choosing an avacado tree variety. = I suspect is that no one wanted to tell tell you the bad news. Not going = to happen, choose a better adapted variety to spend your devotion, water = and money towards. I have a Japanese Loquat that is doing well. Sosme = strawberry guava's do OK. It is all about micro-climates. You can visit = the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension Office and see some rare = plants growing that mihjgt help you to choose something else to try. Steve Drew ------=_NextPart_000_0047_01C21BC6.BE757B00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Mark,
Sorry no one got back to you regarding = choosing an=20 avacado tree variety. I suspect is that no one wanted to tell tell you = the bad=20 news. Not going to happen, choose a better adapted variety to spend your = devotion, water and money towards. I have a Japanese Loquat that is = doing well.=20 Sosme strawberry guava's do OK. It is all about micro-climates. You can = visit=20 the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension Office and see some rare = plants=20 growing that mihjgt help you to choose something else to = try.
 
Steve Drew
------=_NextPart_000_0047_01C21BC6.BE757B00-- From stevendrew@mindspring.com Tue Jun 25 04:46:55 2002 From: stevendrew@mindspring.com (Steven C. Drew) Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2002 21:46:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] purple orchid tree dying??? References: Message-ID: <005e01c21c03$55f19310$42ce56d1@Global> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_005B_01C21BC8.A874A0E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable purple orchid tree dying???One year does not a tree make. Each year is = different climatologically, (if that is really a word) and varying = amounts of rainfall and humidity seem to trigger different responses = from insects and diseases and perhaps even micro-nutient uptake. Since = you have grown Orchid trees before you know that each year is different. = This plant is not the greatest adapted plant to try and grow. But I also = have a Purple Orchid Tree that I love and I notice that it got more beat = up this year than last year , even though I had great blooms. I have = been feeeding chelated iron and lots of nitrogen and added gypsum to the = soil and am hoping that the new leaves come out real big and healthy. = Lots of mulch and some extra water should help in the long run. I = believe that the late frost hurt these trees and that they are a little = behind their internal schedule which is tough to make up when it is = already over 110 deg F outside. I'd love to add a Hong Kong Orchid tree = to my garden but haven't decided it I can take the heartbreak of = watching it suffer.=20 Good luck, Steve Drew ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Deborah Monninger=20 To: 'arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu'=20 Sent: Monday, June 24, 2002 2:50 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] purple orchid tree dying??? I planted a purple orchid tree in my yard about a year ago. It seemed = to do ok until late winter this year when all the leaves turned brown. = It did bloom this spring (though not prolifically) and also had pods on = it for awhile which have now mostly dropped off. It isn't leafing out = much now, although there are a few new leaves. I deep water the tree = once per week and it also receives watering from sprinkler. I've grown = this tree before (in previous house I've since sold) and don't remember = having these problems. Does anyone have any suggestions? I'm in Tempe, = AZ. Debby Monninger ASU Foundation 480-965-0176 debbym@asu.edu ------=_NextPart_000_005B_01C21BC8.A874A0E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable purple orchid tree dying???
One year does not a tree make. Each = year is=20 different climatologically, (if that is really a word) and varying = amounts of=20 rainfall and humidity seem to trigger different responses from insects = and=20 diseases and perhaps even micro-nutient uptake. Since you have grown = Orchid=20 trees before you know that each year is different. This plant is not the = greatest adapted plant to try and grow. But I also have a Purple = Orchid=20 Tree that I love and I notice that it got more beat up this year = than last=20 year , even though I had great blooms. I have been feeeding chelated = iron and=20 lots of nitrogen and added gypsum to the soil and am hoping that = the new=20 leaves come out real big and healthy. Lots of mulch and some extra water = should=20 help in the long run. I believe that the late frost hurt these trees and = that=20 they are a little behind their internal schedule which is tough to make = up when=20 it is already over 110 deg F outside. I'd love to add a Hong Kong Orchid = tree to=20 my garden but haven't decided it I can take the heartbreak of watching = it=20 suffer.
 
Good luck,
 
Steve Drew
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Deborah = Monninger=20
Sent: Monday, June 24, 2002 = 2:50 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] purple = orchid=20 tree dying???

I planted = a purple orchid=20 tree in my yard about a year ago.  It seemed to do ok until late = winter=20 this year when all the leaves turned brown.  It did bloom this = spring=20 (though not prolifically) and=20 also had pods on it for awhile which have now mostly dropped = off.  It=20 isn't leafing out much now, although there are a few new leaves.  = I deep=20 water the tree once per week and it also receives watering from=20 sprinkler.  I've grown this=20 tree before (in previous house I've since sold) and don't remember = having=20 these problems.  Does anyone have any suggestions?  = I'm in Tempe, AZ.

Debby Monninger

ASU=20 Foundation

480-965-0176

debbym@asu.edu

<= /HTML> ------=_NextPart_000_005B_01C21BC8.A874A0E0-- From s2@auroranow.org Tue Jun 25 13:49:35 2002 From: s2@auroranow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 06:49:35 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] bees Message-ID: <3D1874EF.41C98BB2@auroranow.org> Mornin' fellow flora fans, For the past week or two, I've noticed several bees around my yellow/mexican bird of paradise tree, only in the early dawn hour. Needless to say, the tree is blooming like crazy and is more gorgeous than ever this year. However, when I went out to sit on the porch at 5am with my cup o' joe, there was an ominous swarming sound. I noticed maybe 50 to 100 bees around the trees and shrubs, just having a grand ol' time sharing breakfast with the hummingbirds. I noticed several fly up onto the roof in the same general direction... so now I'm a wee bit concerned. They weren't/aren't aggressive at all and if it's just a drought thing, or just more than usual because I woke up about 15 minutes earlier than usual and they hadn't just done their sun up retreat, then I'd just as soon leave 'em alone. However, if I should be worried about a hive, I suspect I should call a bee removal service. Worry or not? -- Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. Vice President, Communications & Technology ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org ===================================================== "I became convinced we are here for each other." -- R. Buckminster Fuller From copper@bargainsail.com Tue Jun 25 14:33:07 2002 From: copper@bargainsail.com (Copper Bittner) Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 07:33:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Report to Recipient(s) In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Just got this and thought the list might be interested. Once again, I DO NOT open attachements and neither should you. Please be careful C Bittner MG/Maricopa County -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of PNIMAIL1.PNI.COM@pni.com Sent: Monday, June 24, 2002 6:12 PM To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Report to Recipient(s) Incident Information:- Originator: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu Recipients: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu, janie.magruder@arizonarepublic.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fw: README WARNING: The README.mpg.bat attachment you received was infected with the W32/Yaha.g@MM virus. The file attachment was not successfully cleaned and has been quarantined. If you need access to this attachment, please contact the sender. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From crymer@Ag.arizona.edu Tue Jun 25 16:37:58 2002 From: crymer@Ag.arizona.edu (Cathy Rymer) Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 09:37:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] virus alert Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20020625092117.0094e4f0@ag.arizona.edu> Greetings, This message it to warn you NOT to open the attachment on an email message from adatech that has README in the subject line. You should have previously received a warning message telling you that "The README.mpg.bat attachment you received was infected with the W32/Yaha.g@MM virus." We have all been warned not to open attachments, but as a precaution for our subscribers I now feel it necessary to change the arid_gardener lists so it will be impossible to send attachments to the list. This may cause some inconvenience when it comes to diagnosing problems or plant/pest identification, but it is the only solution. I have asked the custodian of the list to remove this message from the archive. Please let me know if you have any questions. Kind regards, Cathy Catherine Rymer Instructional Specialist, Sr., Urban Horticulture University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Phoenix, AZ 85040 http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ From s2@auroranow.org Tue Jun 25 17:08:25 2002 From: s2@auroranow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 10:08:25 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] virus alert References: <4.2.0.58.20020625092117.0094e4f0@ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3D18A389.2A020C7E@auroranow.org> Cathy, I manage and moderate several listservs and the only safe avenue is to not allow attachments. If someone needs to send a photo of a sick plant, it should be uploaded to a web page or sent directly to an MG (with permission, of course!). Listers, it's a dangerous world out here in cyberspace, no matter how careful you are. I strongly recommend anyone that uses the internet and is subscribed to even one list, should always have Norton Anti-Virus running at all times, scanning everything going out and coming in. My Norton catches no less than 4-5 incoming viruses every day. Norton and Macaffee anti virus software both now have "live update" features where the software automatically downloads new antivirus definitions as they come out, which is usually once every 2-3 days. -- Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. Vice President, Communications & Technology ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org ===================================================== "I became convinced we are here for each other." -- R. Buckminster Fuller From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Jun 25 16:56:11 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 16:56:11 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] bees Message-ID: Hi, Sherryl I had a similar incident a few weeks ago. I was enjoying the flowers and the bees; my bee balm (Aloysia) was absolutely covered with all kinds of bees. Then, a week or so later, I noticed bees going in and out of the eaves of my house. I tried plugging the holes/cracks I saw but that didn't help. I called a bee person. He came right out -- observed the bees for awhile, netted a few to get a close look. The bees nesting in my eaves turned out to be native, solitary bees. So, no problem! ((One clue is the number of bees you see moving around, if it is a few, one or two at a time, it could be solitary bees. I would have it checked just to be sure. If you call a reputable service, they will verify what creatures you have, rather than just killing them.) Linda >From: Sherryl Stalinski >To: Arid Gardener Listserv >Subject: [Arid_gardener] bees >Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 06:49:35 -0700 > >Mornin' fellow flora fans, >For the past week or two, I've noticed several bees around my >yellow/mexican bird of paradise tree, only in the early dawn hour. >Needless to say, the tree is blooming like crazy and is more gorgeous >than ever this year. However, when I went out to sit on the porch at 5am >with my cup o' joe, there was an ominous swarming sound. I noticed maybe >50 to 100 bees around the trees and shrubs, just having a grand ol' time >sharing breakfast with the hummingbirds. I noticed several fly up onto >the roof in the same general direction... so now I'm a wee bit >concerned. > >They weren't/aren't aggressive at all and if it's just a drought thing, >or just more than usual because I woke up about 15 minutes earlier than >usual and they hadn't just done their sun up retreat, then I'd just as >soon leave 'em alone. However, if I should be worried about a hive, I >suspect I should call a bee removal service. > >Worry or not? >-- >Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. >Vice President, Communications & Technology >ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com >Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 > >Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org >===================================================== >"I became convinced we are here for each other." > -- R. Buckminster Fuller > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From rogeliocastaneda@koppert.com.mx Tue Jun 25 19:18:43 2002 From: rogeliocastaneda@koppert.com.mx (rogeliocastaneda@koppert.com.mx) Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 12:18:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200206251918.g5PJIgx18356@Ag.arizona.edu> Hello! We are facing a big problem dealing with Palm Trees in Los Cabos Baja California Sur. Many palm trees there are affected by a big whitefly. Leaves are infested with this whitefly and the amount of honeydew is so big, that it drops to the ground and the leaves star to become yellow and they dry. We were told that the species doing that is Iris whitefly (Aleyrodes spiroeoides). This fly is bigger (3-4 mm)than a regular greenhouse whitefly (Trialeurodes vaporarium). We are looking for a biological agent to control this problem. Please send any ideas or experience you might have. Thanks!!! From acemassage1@aol.com Tue Jun 25 14:25:35 2002 From: acemassage1@aol.com (acemassage1) Date: Tue,25 Jun 2002 14:24:59 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fw: README Message-ID: <200206252124.g5PLOPx11717@Ag.arizona.edu> --mrcvgpc Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable The Linksys Group, Inc. WPC11 DRIVER INSTALLATION AND UPGRADE Driver Version: 0.29.10a Date Released: 08/31/01 ================================================================ Content: ------- A.) NEW DRIVER INSTALLA
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Message-ID: <01e301c21c8e$f0c71d70$fe00005a@central.com> ScanMail for Microsoft Exchange has blocked an attachment. Sender = acemassage1 Recipient(s) = Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject = [Arid_gardener] Fw: README Scanning Time = 06/25/2002 14:26:15 Action on file blocking: The attachment README.dat.scr matches the file blocking settings. ScanMail has Deleted it. From arielbird@yahoo.com Tue Jun 25 21:32:34 2002 From: arielbird@yahoo.com (ariel) Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 14:32:34 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Biological Control of whitefly In-Reply-To: <200206252127.g5PLRqx12396@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20020625213234.52012.qmail@web10901.mail.yahoo.com> Hi there, Why not call up the entomology division of your local university? They should best know. ===== "Anonymous ex-Enron official says the White House knew about the company's impending demise as far back as August." 06.10.02 www.bushwatch.com __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com From PNIMAIL1.PNI.COM@pni.com Tue Jun 25 21:51:06 2002 From: PNIMAIL1.PNI.COM@pni.com (PNIMAIL1.PNI.COM@pni.com) Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 14:51:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Report to Recipient(s) Message-ID: Incident Information:- Originator: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu Recipients: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu, janie.magruder@arizonarepublic.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fw: README WARNING: The README.dat.scr attachment you received was infected with the W32/Yaha.g@MM virus. The file attachment was not successfully cleaned and has been quarantined. If you need access to this attachment, please contact the sender. From AdvertiseWithUs@egreetings.com Wed Jun 26 00:48:34 2002 From: AdvertiseWithUs@egreetings.com (AdvertiseWithUs) Date: Wed,26 Jun 2002 00:48:14 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fw: Say 'I Like You' To ur friend :-) Message-ID: <200206260747.g5Q7lbx26667@Ag.arizona.edu> --sfvtpml Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable wOW CHECK THIS
AdvertiseWithUs

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Subject: Say 'I Like You' To ur friend :-)


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<<<>>> <<<>>> <<<>>> <<<>>> <<<>>> <<<>>> <<<>>> <<<>>> <<<>>> <<<>>>
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