>From: JeanSciFi@aol.com
>To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
>Subject: [Arid_gardener] Strawberry Pots
>Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 09:29:52 EST
>
>
>I'm trying my first strawberry pot. The one I selected has 20 openings for
>plants. Right now I'm using a pot sealer to try and extend the life of the
>Mexican pot.
>
>I'm thinking of coiling a soaker hose inside the pot as I fill with potting
>soil. Since the hose may clog with minerals I was thinking of drilling .25
>inch holes in the hose. Do you think this method will help distribute
>water
>to all the plants?
>
>What is the best evergreen type strawberry for the low desert? Any hints
>on
>the planting process?
>
>Thanks, Jean
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
Jean,
I've seen some success with pvc pipe. Cut a length to
fit your pot top to bottom. Seal the end at the bottom
with a cap. Drill holes (about 1/4") through the pipe
and at right angles to each other as you go up the pipe.
Put a removable cap on top to keep out dirt. Just fill
the pipe with water to irrigate the pot.
Linda Drew
Master Gardener
_________________________________________________________________
Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
From espceramics@cox.net Mon Mar 4 15:44:40 2002
From: espceramics@cox.net (espceramics@cox.net)
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 08:44:40 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200203041544.g24Fied18268@Ag.arizona.edu>
What are the most suitable evergreen plants or shrubs for planting along a full sun driveway?
Thank you
From sjbass@qwest.net Mon Mar 4 16:44:19 2002
From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass)
Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 09:44:19 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Limonium (Statice) a.k.a. "Sea Lavender
References: <200203032301.g23N1Xh19137@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <3C83A463.8AF4450B@qwest.net>
According the the Sunset Western Garden Book, some species are listed for our Sunset zone 13. I
have seen Sea Lavender in nurseries. The book states that all species tolerate heat and many
soils but need good drainage. The book also states that they take little water once established.
They are listed as a full-sun plant, but I would suspect it would be wise to shelter them from
late afternoon sun here in the desert. They are also known to self-sow.
Sue Bass
Master Gardener
undecidedu@aol.com wrote:
> Would Sea Lavendar grow in this area, and what are it's sun and water requirements. Thank you
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Mar 4 16:46:34 2002
From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy)
Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 09:46:34 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Help for a dying 'lucky bamboo'
References: <0345590FEC321047917FA0BC6D292EB2A7255B@post.goucher.edu>
Message-ID: <3C83A4EA.86C43D9A@qwest.net>
Here is a source closer to home [Midatlantic Bamboo] who might be of assistance.
http://www.midatlanticbamboo.com/
We are located in Maricopa County [Phoenix], Arizona and would not be as knowledgeable about some of the things you asked.
Linda Guy, MG
"Sackin, Erica" wrote:
> I bought my lucky bamboo plant, typical three stalks in water and rocks, about nine months ago, and it was very healthy, until I left it under the care of a friend over the month of January. When I came back, most of the leaves on the bottom parts of the stem had turned yellow and were all dried up. I took it home and tried to bring it back to life, but it seems to just get worse and worse. Of the three pieces of bamboo, the smallest one is fine and healthy in the original stalk, and the bottom of the stem that sprouted from it is healthy, but the leaves and the new growth at the top of the stalk have turned almost completely yellow and thin and dried up. For the medium piece, the bottom of the original stalk is fine, but the top of it has started to turn yellow, and the stem that sprouted from it has turned yellow and soft (almoot bendable) all the way up to a few leaves down from the new growth. The tallest stalk is a mess as well. Like the others, the bottom of the !
> original stalk is healthy, but the only way I can think of describing the top half of the original stalk is that its skin has become yellow and wrinled (but the stalk itself is still strong). The bottom leaves on the stem that sprouted have mostly yellow and dried up, and I removed most of them. Some of the upper leaves have started to turn yellow on the tips and edges, but so far the stem itself is only yellow at its base. Is there anything I can do for it? It may have been the water, my friend lives in the city where the water supply is probably not as clean as the suburbs where I live. It also probably has gotten more exposure to cold, as it may have been near an open window (of course I think it may have also been placed near a heater) My friend thought that maybe the roots had grown too big for the small pot it came in. I know that he also didn't water it as much as he should have, and when I picked it up it, the rocks were almost completely dried up. Is there an!
> y way to salvage it, and make sure this doesn't happen again? Thanks a
> lot,
> Erica in Baltimore
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Mar 4 16:48:02 2002
From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy)
Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 09:48:02 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf Questions
References: <164.9844c60.29ae8d1d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <3C83A541.A0F3193F@qwest.net>
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If our colleague Jack hasn't replied, you might want to consult the lawn
chapter of the Master Gardener Manual for general guidance.
http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/
Good luck!
Linda Guy, MG
Moneses@aol.com wrote:
> Dear Cactus Jack,
> I took your course on drip irrigation at the Botanical garden in the
> fall.
> We are now ready to embark on our landscaping project.
> I had a couple of questions.
> ***When putting in a sod lawn, you had said to till in 2-3 inches of
> mulch and 1 inch of something else. What was the something else? And
> where can I get it in bulk? We're putting in about 2,200 square feet
> of lawn.
> ***When planting desert trees with the water drips underground, how do
> you stop the tree roots from clogging the drip tubes?
> Thank you and I really enjoyed taking your course.
> Lisa Bol
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If our colleague Jack hasn't replied, you might want to consult the lawn
chapter of the Master Gardener Manual for general guidance. http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/
Good luck!
Linda Guy, MG
Moneses@aol.com wrote:
Dear Cactus
Jack,
I took your course on drip
irrigation at the Botanical garden in the fall.
We are now ready to embark
on our landscaping project.
I had a couple of questions.
***When putting in a sod
lawn, you had said to till in 2-3 inches of mulch and 1 inch of something
else. What was the something else? And where can I get it in
bulk? We're putting in about 2,200 square feet of lawn.
***When planting desert
trees with the water drips underground, how do you stop the tree roots
from clogging the drip tubes?
Thank you and I really enjoyed
taking your course.
Lisa Bol
--------------982A9C32453A22C7A55C7436--
From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Mar 4 16:49:42 2002
From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy)
Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 09:49:42 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Yearround Grass for Phoenix
References: <200202272029.g1RKTQx08114@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <3C83A5A6.2B4909A@qwest.net>
Not really. Check out the turf chpater in our Master Gardener Manual at
http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/
or use the search function of our archives to pull up previous
discussions on this subject.
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/question.htm
Linda Guy, MG
sb@asmc.phxcoxmail.com wrote:
> Is there a perrenial grass that will grow year round in Phoenix?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Mar 4 18:25:15 2002
From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy)
Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 11:25:15 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning Bayonet Yucca
References: <200203021832.g22IWJh23267@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <3C83BC0B.F9CBFE37@qwest.net>
Since I've never gotten up close and personal with this particular yucca, I consulted all my references on plants for arid climates. These are usually pruned only as the leaves dry up and die, although some elect to retain the natural appearance and forego pruning. I found one source
[Jones/Sacamano] which actually suggested removing that wicked terminal spike from new leaves as they emerge, to prevent the very problem you are currently confronted with over the long run. Johnson's pruning and planting guide recommends September as the best time to trim.
I guess I can only encourage you to wear leather gloves, preferably with long arm extensions, as well as several layers of long sleeves. At least the weather is a little cooler for the job! I do not recommend tearing the leaves away as this would expose the trunk to the possibility of
sunburn, disease and pests.
Linda Guy, MG
camaz29@hotmail.com wrote:
> Is there an easy way to cut back dead/damaged spikes on the Spanish Bayonet Yucca? The sharp edges and points pose a hazard when attempting to trim with a knife or clipper, and also when trying to "strip" the leaf by pulling on it. Haven't found anything on this in the knowledge base.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From djmurray11@hotmail.com Mon Mar 4 20:41:16 2002
From: djmurray11@hotmail.com (djmurray11@hotmail.com)
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 13:41:16 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200203042041.g24KfGd02068@Ag.arizona.edu>
How do you treat a queen palm approximately 15 years old that has a fungus. The fronds are coming out very ragged and immature looking. I have noticed several in our area that look the same way. Any help is appreciated.
From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Mar 4 21:56:50 2002
From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy)
Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 14:56:50 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palm Fungus
References: <200203042041.g24KfGd02068@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <3C83EDA2.43E5F60B@qwest.net>
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What you describe could simply be a nutrient deficiency. Check out our palm publication at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm
Another place that discusses conditions of palm trees, including the purported fungal condition 'bud rot', is the Master Gardener Manual at
http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/pathology/specificornamental.html#palm
I say purported because the UA pathologists are still on the trail of the condition and are not quite sure what it is. Here is an excerpt from a recent newsletter:
"My lab is anxious to find out more about the elusive problem known as "bud
rot" of Queen palm, and we need sections of trees and root samples to assay
for pathogens. Please advise Master Gardeners, homeowners and landscape
professionals that, in order to work on this problem, destructive sampling
is required. Unfortunately, using a chain saw is about the only way to
effectively sample the internal tissue throughout the tree, and digging out
many of the roots is the only way to get good root samples."
However, it sounds to me that your trees might simply need some good fertilization and watering, which the references above can describe well to you.
If they fail to thrive after all treatments, and you or your landscape specialists still believe it to be fungus, please consider the UA's plea above!
Linda Guy, MG
djmurray11@hotmail.com wrote:
> How do you treat a queen palm approximately 15 years old that has a fungus. The fronds are coming out very ragged and immature looking. I have noticed several in our area that look the same way. Any help is appreciated.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
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What you describe could simply be a nutrient deficiency. Check out our
palm publication at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm
Another place that discusses conditions of palm trees, including the
purported fungal condition 'bud rot', is the Master Gardener Manual at
http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/pathology/specificornamental.html#palm
I say purported because the UA pathologists are still on the trail
of the condition and are not quite sure what it is. Here is an excerpt
from a recent newsletter:
"My lab is anxious to find out more about the elusive problem known
as "bud
rot" of Queen palm, and we need sections of trees and root samples
to assay
for pathogens. Please advise Master Gardeners, homeowners and landscape
professionals that, in order to work on this problem, destructive sampling
is required. Unfortunately, using a chain saw is about the only
way to
effectively sample the internal tissue throughout the tree, and digging
out
many of the roots is the only way to get good root samples."
However, it sounds to me that your trees might simply
need some good fertilization and watering, which the references above can
describe well to you.
If they fail to thrive after all treatments, and you or your landscape
specialists still believe it to be fungus, please consider the UA's plea
above!
Linda Guy, MG
djmurray11@hotmail.com wrote:
How do you treat a queen palm approximately 15 years
old that has a fungus. The fronds are coming out very ragged and
immature looking. I have noticed several in our area that look the
same way. Any help is appreciated.
_______________________________________________
Arid_gardener mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
--------------0860F08E25938E949EBA9464--
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Mar 4 22:14:39 2002
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com)
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 17:14:39 EST
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palm with ragged fronds
Message-ID:
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>From what you've described it sounds like your queen palm has a nutrient
deficiency instead of a fungus. Some people in the industry have erroneously
called these symptoms Bud Rot, however the plant pathology department at
Univ. of Arizona has only identified three cases of bud rot of queen palms in
many years, so the chances of your tree having bud rot are very slim.
Queen palms are not well adapted to our climate conditions here in the low
desert, consequently they must have proper care in order to survive.
They should be fertilized three to four times a year with a special palm
fertilizer plus be irrigated properly.
If the condition you describe is severe I would suggest that you have the
tree inspected by a certified arborist who will propose a course of treatment.
The following links should be helpful:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html
http://www2.champaign.isa-arbor.com/arborists/arborist.html
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
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From what you've described it sounds like your queen palm has a nutrient deficiency instead of a fungus. Some people in the industry have erroneously called these symptoms Bud Rot, however the plant pathology department at Univ. of Arizona has only identified three cases of bud rot of queen palms in many years, so the chances of your tree having bud rot are very slim.
Queen palms are not well adapted to our climate conditions here in the low desert, consequently they must have proper care in order to survive.
They should be fertilized three to four times a year with a special palm fertilizer plus be irrigated properly.
If the condition you describe is severe I would suggest that you have the tree inspected by a certified arborist who will propose a course of treatment.
The following links should be helpful: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html
http://www2.champaign.isa-arbor.com/arborists/arborist.html
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
--part1_ca.7832ead.29b54bcf_boundary--
From D Sparrow"
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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charset="iso-8859-1"
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Year round Grass for Phoenix. Might not want to pursue that too far. =20
A plant that adaptable could be hard to control in your own yard and if =
it spreads elsewhere as some grasses have...
May be a case of needing to be careful what we wish for.
For example of unintentional effects from an introduced grass, see =
http://ag.arizona.edu/classes/ram446/labsyll/exotics.html on Buffel =
grass. This grass is crowding out other species, creating fire hazards =
and depleting soil nutrients. =20
D Sparrow
MG Maricopa County
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Year round Grass for =
Phoenix. Might not want=20
to pursue that too far.
A plant that adaptable could be hard=20
to control in your own yard and if it spreads elsewhere as =
some=20
grasses have...
May be a case of needing to be careful =
what we wish=20
for.
For example of unintentional effects =
from=20
an introduced grass, see =
http://ag.arizona.edu/classes/ram446/labsyll/exotics.html=
on Buffel grass. This grass is crowding out other species, creating fire =
hazards and=20
depleting soil nutrients.
D Sparrow
MG Maricopa County
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From umiller@azdps.com Mon Mar 4 23:21:07 2002
From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller)
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 16:21:07 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sea Lavender
In-Reply-To: <200203032301.g23N1Xh19137@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID:
I'm not familiar with sea lavender, so I looked it up in my trusty and
dog-eared Sunset Western Garden Book. It says that it tolerates heat and
needs good drainage. Apparently the only kind that DOESN'T grow well here
is latifolium. But when I searched the web, it seemed like sea lavender is
very popular in places with marshes or places near the ocean with high
humidity. So it might be tricky in this dry climate.
I grow other types of lavenders and they thrive here. But Sea Lavender
appears to be Limonium, not actually a Lavender and I don't remember ever
seeing it at nurseries. (Of course, I haven't been looking for it, either,
so it would be easy to miss.)
Ursula Miller
Not a Master Gardener
-----Original Message-----
From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu
[mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of undecidedu@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2002 4:02 PM
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Would Sea Lavendar grow in this area, and what are it's sun and water
requirements. Thank you
_______________________________________________
Arid_gardener mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From gardenguru"
Message-ID: <013f01c1c3ea$0639cf20$41382ace@ibm22761658747>
There are several evergreen plants suitable for full sun. Zexmenia is a heat
loving plant that grows about 2 to 3 ft high and blooms yellow flowers
during the hottest part of the year. Prostrate rosemary also loves the heat
and is also frost tolerant. Both would be considered ground cover plants.
Shrubs include texas sage, ruella or petite oleanders. These are shrubs that
grow to 4 to 5 feet
There are several doc avail from the county ext. service for landscapes
plants that work well in the Phx area
MC05 Shrubs for Landscaping,
MC34 Shrubs for Maricopa County - Drought Resistant
MC30 Shrubs, Groundcovers, and Vines - Low Drought Resistant
There are available from the for $1 ea
Maricopa County Cooperative Extension
4341 E. Broadway Road
Phoenix, AZ 85040
Hope this helps
GG
----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Monday, March 04, 2002 8:44 AM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
> What are the most suitable evergreen plants or shrubs for planting along a
full sun driveway?
>
> Thank you
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>
From outridge1@qwest.net Tue Mar 5 08:30:52 2002
From: outridge1@qwest.net (Degan Outridge)
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 01:30:52 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] How to Kill Trees
In-Reply-To: <21.16a90c4b.2960fd72@aol.com>
Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20020305012623.00a58050@pop.tcsn.qwest.net>
I have a grapefruit suffering from gummosis -- fruit this year was
miniscule, bark sloughing and alligator-ing, deep fissures (quarter inch)
that run from a few inches to a couple of feet up one trunk...the tree is
over 30 years old and I think its time for it to go.
What I'd like to do is prune it down to the trunk(s) and then kill the
trunk and feeder roots so they don't inspire new growth once the burden of
the tree is removed. Any recommendations?
I'm also hoping to be able to pull the stump at some point and replant in
the general area, as its a focal point with a patio shaped around one side
of the canopy for shade. I'd appreciate advice on killing/rotting the
trunk and roots, then how to chop/pull up a stump. I'd like to do this
myself -- at least as much as possible. Thanks
-_Degan
From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Mar 5 13:36:42 2002
From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy)
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 06:36:42 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Blood Oranges in Sun City
References: <200203030254.g232soh05538@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <3C84C9EA.53889AF7@qwest.net>
I believe you already received a reply directing you to our publication on citrus
varieties. I had an opportunity to taste a broad selection at a citrus clinic last January
and spoke with Dean Bacon who is the the former (retired) farm manager for the UA citrus
farm at Waddell. His favorite blood orange was Sanguinelli which he felt was better for
clay soils and because it held its colors better than the others in mild winters. Second
choice was Moro. Tarroco was not said to do well in Phoenix; I'm sorry but I didn't take
notes as to why. Taste-wise, Moro was my personal favorite.
Linda Guy, MG
GEOMUM@webtv.net wrote:
> I WANT TO PLANT A BLOOD ORANGE TREE IN SUN CITY WEST AND WONDER HOW WELL THEY DO HERE?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Mar 5 13:43:07 2002
From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy)
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 06:43:07 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapes in Phoenix Metro Area
References: <200203031913.g23JDdh23387@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <3C84CB6B.5E2CE4C3@qwest.net>
It is best to plant bare-root stock in late January through February. We have a pretty good fact sheet [MC-59] on the subject, which
you can order at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm
Thompson, Flame, BlackMonukka and Perlette were listed as good for table grapes and raisin-making. Cardinal and Exotic were suggested
for table or jelly. Concord can do well.
Placement is important as you don't want overspray from lawn sprinklers, which make the grapes more susceptible to powdery mildew.
Linda Guy, MG
garycrapshooter@earthlink.net wrote:
> I AM NEW TO THE AREA & WOULD LIKE TO KNOW WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO PLANT GRAPES & WHAT TYPE WOULD BE THE BEST KIND OF TABLE GRAPE
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Mar 5 13:47:19 2002
From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy)
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 06:47:19 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sealants for Raised Beds
References: <200202270027.g1R0Rux22103@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <3C84CC67.24EB8E56@qwest.net>
I don't have a specific product suggestion, but I would trust the folks at Home Depot, Lowe's or a local hardware store for guidance because this hasn't been a particularly inflammatory topic in garden circles, to my knowledge.
Linda Guy, MG
jkbryson@ureach.com wrote:
> Do you have a recommendation for a sealant for concrete and masonry block? I'm working on a raised garden bed and I need to seal the concrete borders (to keep water from leaking through) before I prepare the soil. Do you have a recommendation for a good product for this type of thing?
>
> Any suggestions that you have would be appreciated.
>
> Julia Bryson
> 480-926-2899
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From clhopkin@srpnet.com Tue Mar 5 21:04:55 2002
From: clhopkin@srpnet.com (clhopkin@srpnet.com)
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 14:04:55 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200203052104.g25L4t518140@Ag.arizona.edu>
I know this is probably a stretch, but I'm trying to figure out why the grass under my dieing male Ash tree (sorry, I don't know the variety) has all died out while the grass under my female living Ash has not. Is it possible that the dieing Ash is poisoning the soil?
From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Mar 5 22:38:00 2002
From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew)
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 22:38:00 +0000
Subject: [Arid_gardener] grass dying under ash tree
Message-ID:
I would doubt that the ash is poisoning the soil.
Do you know why the ash is dying?
Perhaps the same thing is causing the grass to die--
lack of water, herbicide application, flooding, etc.??
Are the trees close together? What has been done regarding
pruning, fertilization? Any new construction in the area?
Linda Drew
Master Gardener
>From: clhopkin@srpnet.com
>To:
>Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 14:04:55 -0700 (MST)
>
>I know this is probably a stretch, but I'm trying to figure out why the
>grass under my dieing male Ash tree (sorry, I don't know the variety) has
>all died out while the grass under my female living Ash has not. Is it
>possible that the dieing Ash is poisoning the soil?
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
_________________________________________________________________
Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
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From cenalmor@yahoo.com Tue Mar 5 22:42:46 2002
From: cenalmor@yahoo.com (Barbara Cenalmor)
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 14:42:46 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mystery tree
In-Reply-To: <200203052104.g25L4t518140@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <20020305224246.20550.qmail@web14706.mail.yahoo.com>
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The other day I saw an interesting looking tree in Chandler. I can't tell you much about the tree (20 feet tall or so) because it had no leaves whatsoever, and nothing was really striking about the actual trunk and branches, but what called my attention were the flowers. They were about fist sized, bright red, and from where I was standing they looked like they had straight up tentacles. Please note I wasn't wearing my glasses :) I thought the tree looked so amazing with no leaves and these big red flowers on them. Does anybody have any clue of what tree this is?
Thanks
Barbara C. Master Gardener.
---------------------------------
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The other day I saw an interesting looking tree in Chandler. I can't tell you much about the tree (20 feet tall or so) because it had no leaves whatsoever, and nothing was really striking about the actual trunk and branches, but what called my attention were the flowers. They were about fist sized, bright red, and from where I was standing they looked like they had straight up tentacles. Please note I wasn't wearing my glasses :) I thought the tree looked so amazing with no leaves and these big red flowers on them. Does anybody have any clue of what tree this is?
Thanks
Barbara C. Master Gardener.
Do You Yahoo!?
Try FREE Yahoo! Mail - the world's greatest free email!
--0-1195896427-1015368166=:19395--
From gardenguru"
Message-ID: <02ae01c1c52e$21f29cc0$41382ace@ibm22761658747>
Local gardening stores sell Stump Remover that is used to rot/elimnate
stumps. Regarding pulling the stump of a grapefruit tree, citrus are not
actually trees but large shrubs. They do not have deep tap roots like trees
but have a root system 2 to 3 ft deep that spreads to 1 foot outside of the
canopy drip line. It is unlikely that you would be able to pull the entire
root system even with a Chevy like on TV. If you plan to plant in the
general area, I would suggest bringing in a professional with a backhoe or
special tree removal equipment or invite several friends with stong backs
and picks and shovels. You will have bring in additional top soil to refill
the hole left after stump and root removal.
Good Luck
GG
----- Original Message -----
From: "Degan Outridge"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, March 05, 2002 1:30 AM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] How to Kill Trees
> I have a grapefruit suffering from gummosis -- fruit this year was
> miniscule, bark sloughing and alligator-ing, deep fissures (quarter inch)
> that run from a few inches to a couple of feet up one trunk...the tree is
> over 30 years old and I think its time for it to go.
>
> What I'd like to do is prune it down to the trunk(s) and then kill the
> trunk and feeder roots so they don't inspire new growth once the burden of
> the tree is removed. Any recommendations?
>
> I'm also hoping to be able to pull the stump at some point and replant in
> the general area, as its a focal point with a patio shaped around one side
> of the canopy for shade. I'd appreciate advice on killing/rotting the
> trunk and roots, then how to chop/pull up a stump. I'd like to do this
> myself -- at least as much as possible. Thanks
>
> -_Degan
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>
From Murphey358@aol.com Wed Mar 6 17:40:28 2002
From: Murphey358@aol.com (Murphey358@aol.com)
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 10:40:28 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200203061740.g26HeS503140@Ag.arizona.edu>
From Murphey358@aol.com Wed Mar 6 17:43:11 2002
From: Murphey358@aol.com (Murphey358@aol.com)
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 10:43:11 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200203061743.g26HhB503838@Ag.arizona.edu>
I received several pots of roses how do I plant these? There was no instructions with them. Is it too late, do I cut them back? They have about a foot of growth and one of them has 5 canes, do I lop it off?
Help
Thanks, Murphey
From crymer@Ag.arizona.edu Wed Mar 6 17:54:58 2002
From: crymer@Ag.arizona.edu (Cathy Rymer)
Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 10:54:58 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
In-Reply-To: <200203011705.g21H5Nx09504@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20020306100241.00afb2f0@ag.arizona.edu>
The question about control of pearl scale in lawns is presented
periodically on this list serve. Even the best treatments will only give
80% control and will need to be repeated annually.
Pearl scale are tiny soil borne insects that attach themselves to the roots
of hybrid Bermuda grass used as lawns in the Southwest. While in the
"pearl" stage the insect is protected by the hard covering that surrounds
it. It is only when the insects are in the "crawler" stage and unprotected
that they are vulnerable to any means of control. Treatments should be
applied from May 15 to the end of June.
Symptoms of pearl scale damage appear on actively growing Bermuda hybrid
lawns. Generally, small circular patches of dead grass are the first
indication that these insects are feeding on the roots. These circular
areas gradually increase in size. Samples dug the edges of the circles
where the grass is green will reveal the scale insects. When the area is
small, the affected sod and soil can be carefully removed and replaced. Be
very careful with contaminated soil and the tools used to examine the lawn,
as they can contaminate unaffected areas. Samples can be taken to the U of
A Cooperative Extension office for free analysis.
Sulfur or a sulfur bearing product gives some control by itself. Couple it
with an insecticide designed for soil applications on lawns and the control
may go up to 60 to 70%. Applications must be made and watered in thoroughly.
At the present time the product known as Merit is not labeled for the
control of pearl scale. As representatives of the University of Arizona,
Master Gardeners cannot legally recommend the use of Merit for this
pest. It is illegal to recommend the use of a product for anything that
is not included on its label. You can check the Merit product specimen
label at http://www.bayerprocentral.com/products/merit/index.html
However, homeowners and golf course superintendents have noticed that using
Merit for the control of white grubs in turf (which the label lists) has
also resulted in a significant control of any pearl scale that might also
be present.
Common Bermuda seems to tolerate any pearl scale while Dichondra lawns
don't seem to be affected.
Good luck.
Cathy
At 10:05 AM 03/01/2002 -0700, jhom777@hotmail.com wrote:
>I live in Glendale, AZ. My Santa Ana tiff lawn is infested with pearl
>scales. What can I do about it?
>
>Is Bobsod an alternative?
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
Catherine Rymer
Instructional Specialist, Sr., Urban Horticulture
University of Arizona
Maricopa County Cooperative Extension
4341 E. Broadway
Phoenix, AZ 85040
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/
From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Wed Mar 6 18:31:10 2002
From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart)
Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 11:31:10 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
References: <200203061743.g26HhB503838@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <3C86606E.79753AF1@email.sps.mot.com>
Do not do any pruning or loping off now. Your going to need all the foliage you can get in order to shade the canes and protect them from sunburn during our hottest months just ahead.
Dig your holes about 2 feet wide x 18" to 2 feet deep. I throw 1/2 cup of Triple Super phosphate and Disperesul in the bottom of my holes. cover with some potting soil, then transplant your rose into the hole.
Make sure the graft is level or just above the original ground level. Fill in with a good potting soil mix. Take the native soil and form a well around your rose to retain water when you water the rose. This is
the very best time for planting potted roses!
Regards,
--
Chat with you later...
-----
Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13
http://www.gizmoaz.com
Over 250 roses and over 160 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!!
***** Year of the Rose, 2002! *****
Democracy is three wolves and one sheep voting on what to have for supper
Murphey358@aol.com wrote:
> I received several pots of roses how do I plant these? There was no instructions with them. Is it too late, do I cut them back? They have about a foot of growth and one of them has 5 canes, do I lop it off?
> Help
> Thanks, Murphey
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
--
-----
Motorola Semiconductor Products Sector
R. Alan Zelhart
Comprehensive Software Asset Management
Web site: http://csam.mot.com
2100 East Elliot Road; Mail Drop EL714
Tempe, Arizona 85284
Work Phone: (480) 413-3470
Pager: (888) 996-9501
Fax: (480) 413-5723
Hey, this isn't my tagline ! Who put it here ?
From Ndsnowbirds@att.net Thu Mar 7 02:47:33 2002
From: Ndsnowbirds@att.net (Ndsnowbirds@att.net)
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 19:47:33 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200203070247.g272lX522532@Ag.arizona.edu>
I would like to know if the lemons on our tree need to be taken off when it is blooming and setting new fruit? we are in Surprise for the winter months and will leave the second week in April. we also have orange and grapefruit trees, they are dwarf...do they need alot of water when they are setting new fruit?? if I pick the lemons will they keep very well in the refrigerator?? thank you very much
From Ndsnowbirds@att.net Thu Mar 7 02:48:14 2002
From: Ndsnowbirds@att.net (Ndsnowbirds@att.net)
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 19:48:14 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200203070248.g272mE522579@Ag.arizona.edu>
I would like to know if the lemons on our tree need to be taken off when it is blooming and setting new fruit? we are in Surprise for the winter months and will leave the second week in April. we also have orange and grapefruit trees, they are dwarf...do they need alot of water when they are setting new fruit?? if I pick the lemons will they keep very well in the refrigerator?? thank you very much
From skashennessy@aol.com Thu Mar 7 04:05:11 2002
From: skashennessy@aol.com (skashennessy@aol.com)
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 21:05:11 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200203070405.g2745B505748@Ag.arizona.edu>
How much water does my lawn need now, how long should the spinklers be on and how often? When should i start increasing the volumes over the next few months
I have summer turf which has died off over the winter and want it to return the the lush green of last year when we purchased our home (and Garden!) in Arizona.
From DSBroyles@aol.com Thu Mar 7 10:49:10 2002
From: DSBroyles@aol.com (DSBroyles@aol.com)
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 03:49:10 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200203071049.g27AnA505452@Ag.arizona.edu>
I'm on the Board of Directors for my HOA. I'm also on the Architectural Review committee. From time to time, residents will submit a review to place trees/plants in their yard, and we have an approved plant listing to go by. But sometimes it creates a problem. For example, one of the approved trees is a Ficus. A resident wants to place two Ficus Nitida trees in their front yard. Are these both the same thing. Where on the internet would I be most likely to research questions like this? Thank you for your time
From DSBroyles@aol.com Thu Mar 7 10:49:55 2002
From: DSBroyles@aol.com (DSBroyles@aol.com)
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 03:49:55 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200203071049.g27Ant505499@Ag.arizona.edu>
I'm on the Board of Directors for my HOA. I'm also on the Architectural Review committee. From time to time, residents will submit a review to place trees/plants in their yard, and we have an approved plant listing to go by. But sometimes it creates a problem. For example, one of the approved trees is a Ficus. A resident wants to place two Ficus Nitida trees in their front yard. Are these both the same thing. Where on the internet would I be most likely to research questions like this? Thank you for your time
From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Mar 7 14:26:45 2002
From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew)
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 14:26:45 +0000
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus care
Message-ID:
Hello
It is O.K. to leave the lemons on the tree while it is blooming and
setting new fruit.
Citrus need more water now as the temperatures warm and the
trees set fruit. Check this citrus irrigation publication online:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf
Check out other citrus publications that could be of assistance at:
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm
You can pick the lemons now and store them in the refrigerator.
For longer storage, juice the lemons, freeze the juice in
ice cube trays, and put the cubes in plastic bags in your
freezer.
Linda Drew
Master Gardener
>From: Ndsnowbirds@att.net
>To:
>Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 19:48:14 -0700 (MST)
>
>I would like to know if the lemons on our tree need to be taken off when it
>is blooming and setting new fruit? we are in Surprise for the winter months
>and will leave the second week in April. we also have orange and grapefruit
>trees, they are dwarf...do they need alot of water when they are setting
>new fruit?? if I pick the lemons will they keep very well in the
>refrigerator?? thank you very much
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
_________________________________________________________________
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
From paulettegomez@hotmail.com Thu Mar 7 16:16:06 2002
From: paulettegomez@hotmail.com (paulettegomez@hotmail.com)
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 09:16:06 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200203071616.g27GG6520960@Ag.arizona.edu>
How to grow avacado tree. I have the seed started and plant growing now what? Looks
like tall stick with small leaves on top. Been told to pinch, etc. Where can I get more information on this project
From gardenguru"
Message-ID: <031901c1c5f7$01963620$41382ace@ibm22761658747>
Ficus Nitida is one of the trees that do well in AZ. It is fast growing to
25 ft H X 20 ft wide. It does not lose its leaves in the winter but does
need adequate water. For more data you can obtain docs from the county ext
service for $1 ea. They can assist your efforts in approving trees for your
home owners.
8835 Trees - Effective Shade
MC13 Trees for Maricopa County
MC33 Trees for Maricopa County - Drought Resistant
Maricopa County Cooperative Extension
4341 E. Broadway Road
Phoenix, AZ 85040
Hopes this helps
GG
----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Thursday, March 07, 2002 3:49 AM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
> I'm on the Board of Directors for my HOA. I'm also on the Architectural
Review committee. From time to time, residents will submit a review to place
trees/plants in their yard, and we have an approved plant listing to go by.
But sometimes it creates a problem. For example, one of the approved trees
is a Ficus. A resident wants to place two Ficus Nitida trees in their front
yard. Are these both the same thing. Where on the internet would I be most
likely to research questions like this? Thank you for your time
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>
From cstephens@infinet-is.com Thu Mar 7 17:46:16 2002
From: cstephens@infinet-is.com (Charles Stephens)
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 10:46:16 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Dawn for Aphid Control
Message-ID: <000e01c1c5ff$fc21f220$b686dfd1@default>
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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Does anyone have any experience with Dawn dishwasing liquid for aphid =
control on vegetables since they changed to the "New Fast Acting =
Formula" I'm concerned about the possibility of plant injury with the =
new formula.
Charlie
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Does anyone have any experience =
with Dawn=20
dishwasing liquid for aphid control on vegetables since they changed to =
the=20
"New Fast Acting Formula" I'm concerned about the possibility of =
plant=20
injury with the new formula.
Charlie
------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C1C5C5.4EC75500--
From ckjones@Ag.arizona.edu Thu Mar 7 17:42:00 2002
From: ckjones@Ag.arizona.edu (Chris Jones)
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 10:42:00 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] FW: ARIZONA NOXIOUS, INVASIVE PLANT SUMMIT, APRIL 25 & 26, 2002 -- 2nd NOTICE
Message-ID:
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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This should be of interest to anyone who fights or pulls weeds. Please
distribute. Chris
ARIZONA NOXIOUS, INVASIVE PLANT SUMMIT that will be held at the
RADISSON HOTEL, in TUCSON, APRIL 25 & 26, 2002. The March 20th Registration
deadline is fast
approaching to avoid a late registration fee and to acquire a special low
hotel room rate. People can still register after March 20th but the price
goes up for both registration and hotel room rates. Registration and hotel
information can
also be downloaded at:
http://www.ag.arizona.edu/srnr/
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