From tslarson1@msn.com Fri Mar 1 03:17:58 2002 From: tslarson1@msn.com (tslarson1@msn.com) Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 20:17:58 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203010317.g213Hwx28696@Ag.arizona.edu> I am on the landscape committee of our condominium community. We have many trees and lots of grass but would like to design a more energy and water efficient landscaping plan. Do you have any suggestions of a low cost way we can obtain some professional assistance to formulate such a plan? Any ideas will be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Tom Larson Scottsdale From ray@rcstechnology.net Fri Mar 1 04:50:21 2002 From: ray@rcstechnology.net (Ray Stewart) Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 21:50:21 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Empty Grapefuit with Thick Rinds Message-ID: <000101c1c0dc$9b1b24b0$0100a8c0@server1> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0002_01C1C0A1.EEBC4CB0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Our grapefruit tree has many fruits that are about empty and juiceless and the ones that do have juice have rinds that are about =BD=94 thick. = Has anyone experienced this problem? =20 Thanks! =20 =20 =20 Ray Stewart =20 ------=_NextPart_000_0002_01C1C0A1.EEBC4CB0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Our grapefruit tree has many fruits that are about = empty and juiceless and the ones that do have juice have rinds that are about = =BD” thick. Has anyone experienced this problem?

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

Ray = Stewart

 

------=_NextPart_000_0002_01C1C0A1.EEBC4CB0-- From jhom777@hotmail.com Fri Mar 1 17:05:23 2002 From: jhom777@hotmail.com (jhom777@hotmail.com) Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 10:05:23 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203011705.g21H5Nx09504@Ag.arizona.edu> I live in Glendale, AZ. My Santa Ana tiff lawn is infested with pearl scales. What can I do about it? Is Bobsod an alternative? From crymer@Ag.arizona.edu Fri Mar 1 18:57:58 2002 From: crymer@Ag.arizona.edu (Cathy Rymer) Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 11:57:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200203010317.g213Hwx28696@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20020301114528.00aee560@ag.arizona.edu> Hi Tom, The City of Scottsdale has funding opportunities for projects like the one you are considering. Your homeowners association can apply for up to $5,000 (per project, per year) of funding for neighborhood improvement projects that can be completed in six months or less. Take a look at the city's Neighborhood Services web page for details. http://www.ci.scottsdale.az.us/neighborhoods/FundingProgram/ Similar funding opportunities are available from other cities in Arizona as well. In Gilbert they call it the WIN Grant, in Mesa they are called Community Development Block Grants. Good luck. Cathy At 08:17 PM 02/28/2002 -0700, tslarson1@msn.com wrote: >I am on the landscape committee of our condominium community. We have >many trees and lots of grass but would like to design a more energy and >water efficient landscaping plan. Do you have any suggestions of a low >cost way we can obtain some professional assistance to formulate such a >plan? Any ideas will be greatly appreciated. >Thank you, >Tom Larson >Scottsdale > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Catherine Rymer Instructional Specialist, Sr., Urban Horticulture Certified Arborist WC-5216 University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Phoenix, AZ 85040 http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ From Steve.Sheard@motorola.com Fri Mar 1 22:12:52 2002 From: Steve.Sheard@motorola.com (Sheard Stephen-r21680) Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 15:12:52 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pearl Scale Message-ID: You asked at just the right time. Pearl Scale can only be treated/killed in March/April just as the temperatures begin to warm. Any later is TOO late - until next year. You need to treat it with MERIT at about 1.5lbs per 1000sq feet. I have just purchased a bag to treat my lawns. Contact Jack McClure 480-833-7578, he is in Mesa but probably knows where you can buy in Glendale. Jack can tell you how to apply it etc. Regards Steve -----Original Message----- From: jhom777@hotmail.com [mailto:jhom777@hotmail.com] Sent: Friday, March 01, 2002 10:05 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live in Glendale, AZ. My Santa Ana tiff lawn is infested with pearl scales. What can I do about it? Is Bobsod an alternative? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From e.lueder@att.net Fri Mar 1 22:50:38 2002 From: e.lueder@att.net (e.lueder@att.net) Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 15:50:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203012250.g21Mocx28226@Ag.arizona.edu> Fronds of palms (pigmys, mexican fan and queen) turn brown - what is the reason. What should one do to remedy browning of fronds. Should one get professional help? Thanks. From gizmoaz@cox.net Sat Mar 2 01:41:50 2002 From: gizmoaz@cox.net (GizmoAZ) Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 18:41:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pearl Scale References: Message-ID: <3C802DDE.DB43681F@cox.net> What are the symptoms of pearl scale in your yard? How do you know you have it? Just curious. -- Chat with you later... ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.gizmoaz.com Over 250 roses and over 160 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! ***** Year of the Rose, 2002! ***** ----- I like you ... you remind me of me when I was young and stupid Sheard Stephen-r21680 wrote: > You asked at just the right time. Pearl Scale can only be treated/killed in March/April just as the temperatures begin to warm. Any later is TOO late - until next year. > You need to treat it with MERIT at about 1.5lbs per 1000sq feet. I have just purchased a bag to treat my lawns. Contact Jack McClure 480-833-7578, he is in Mesa but probably knows where you can buy in Glendale. Jack can tell you how to apply it etc. > Regards > Steve > > -----Original Message----- > From: jhom777@hotmail.com [mailto:jhom777@hotmail.com] > Sent: Friday, March 01, 2002 10:05 AM > To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > I live in Glendale, AZ. My Santa Ana tiff lawn is infested with pearl scales. What can I do about it? > > Is Bobsod an alternative? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From max-cn@163.com Sat Mar 2 12:48:45 2002 From: max-cn@163.com (max) Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 20:48:45 0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Provide porcelain floor tiles Message-ID: <1015073325.306@163.com> Dear Sir/Madam, We are original manufacturer in China producing porcelain floor tiles with competitive and reasonable price for decoration use. Please visit our website http//www.huiya.com (online submit system is expected to be finished in two weeks) to get more information. Please feel free to contact me, if you have any questions. Thanks & Regards, Max HUIYA CERAMIC CO., LTD. Wuxing Industrial Zone, Xiaotang Town, Nanhai, Guangdong, P. R. China PHONE: +86 757 6669738 FAX: +86 757 6668628 http://www.huiya.com EMAIL: max-cn@163.com max@huiya.com max@buz-agent.com _____________________________________________________________________ Batch broadcast email messages such as newsletters and reports to groups of people with no CC headers. To try [32bit Email Broadcaster] for FREE, click http://www.electrasoft.com/32bea.htm You may not use 32bit Email Broadcaster to send SPAM. From cstephens@infinet-is.com Sat Mar 2 18:07:23 2002 From: cstephens@infinet-is.com (Charles Stephens) Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 11:07:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Growing Corn In AZ References: <200202210505.g1L55tx11203@Ag.arizona.edu> <003d01c1bafd$56415920$0d3a2ace@ibm22761658747> Message-ID: <001701c1c215$1b777580$9d86dfd1@default> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01C1C1DA.6DB9A9C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable AZ 1141 is also available in pdf format (3 pages) at = http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1141.pdf Charlie Stephens Master Gardener Phoenix ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01C1C1DA.6DB9A9C0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
AZ 1141 is also available in pdf = format  (3=20 pages) at http://ag.arizona.ed= u/pubs/crops/az1141.pdf
 
Charlie Stephens
Master=20 Gardener
Phoenix
------=_NextPart_000_0014_01C1C1DA.6DB9A9C0-- From camaz29@hotmail.com Sat Mar 2 18:32:19 2002 From: camaz29@hotmail.com (camaz29@hotmail.com) Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 11:32:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203021832.g22IWJh23267@Ag.arizona.edu> Is there an easy way to cut back dead/damaged spikes on the Spanish Bayonet Yucca? The sharp edges and points pose a hazard when attempting to trim with a knife or clipper, and also when trying to "strip" the leaf by pulling on it. Haven't found anything on this in the knowledge base. From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Mar 2 20:21:58 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 13:21:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [MG] Wildflower ideas and photo opportunities References: <4.3.2.7.2.20020301135419.00b20ab0@ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C813466.9402D071@qwest.net> --------------D0DEB6DD6B82F3D8A70B7018 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit May I just make a suggestion that if you publish any of this research on wildflowers in AZ, you include discussion of the potential for invasiveness of non-native species, particularly when introduced in residential areas adjacent to parks and other open spaces. The African daisy in particular is one to include in this category. Wildflower specialists at the DBG could suggest others to you, I'm sure. Linda Guy, MG Kathleen Moore wrote: > Mike Enriquez Master Gardener is doing research on popular flowers. > This includes "wild flowers". > If you have a favorite flower would you please email the name of your > favorite flower to Mike at pikikoko@msn.com > Also if you see a good display of flowers in Arizona please also send > him this information so he can photograph the display. Please limit > locations within Arizona. > Thanks for any help you can give in this effort. --------------D0DEB6DD6B82F3D8A70B7018 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit May I just make a suggestion that if you publish any of this research on wildflowers in AZ, you include discussion of the potential for invasiveness of non-native species, particularly when introduced in residential areas adjacent to parks and other open spaces. The African daisy in particular is one to include in this category. Wildflower specialists at the DBG could suggest others to you, I'm sure.

Linda Guy, MG

Kathleen Moore wrote:

 Mike Enriquez Master Gardener is doing research on popular flowers. This includes "wild flowers".
If you have a favorite flower would you please email the name of your favorite flower to Mike at pikikoko@msn.com
Also if you see a good display of flowers in Arizona please also send him this information so he can photograph the display. Please limit locations within Arizona.
Thanks for any help you can give in this effort.
--------------D0DEB6DD6B82F3D8A70B7018-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Mar 2 20:40:47 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 02 Mar 2002 13:40:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Historic Range of Saguaro Forest Message-ID: <3C8138CF.153EC44B@qwest.net> Several years back, I saw pictures and/or read that the saguaro forest originally ranged contiguously from the Tucson vicinity up to Papago Park. I volunteered this vague recollection at a DBG meeting this morning and was asked to 'look it up!' and bring back more info when next we meet. I've just spent 1/2 hour online and haven't turned up any 'dirt' yet. Can someone help? Thinking of calling the native plant and succulent societies. Many thanks. Linda Guy From GEOMUM@WEBTV.NET Sun Mar 3 02:54:50 2002 From: GEOMUM@WEBTV.NET (GEOMUM@WEBTV.NET) Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2002 19:54:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203030254.g232soh05538@Ag.arizona.edu> I WANT TO PLANT A BLOOD ORANGE TREE IN SUN CITY WEST AND WONDER HOW WELL THEY DO HERE? From cstephens@infinet-is.com Sun Mar 3 15:56:01 2002 From: cstephens@infinet-is.com (Charles Stephens) Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 08:56:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rubber Bulb Sprinkler Message-ID: <000e01c1c2cb$eb98e4e0$a486dfd1@default> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C1C291.3E3E47C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Does anyone know of a source for a rubber bulb sprinkler (used in indoor = seed starting)? I haven't had any luck searcing the web. Charlie Stephens Master Gardener Phoenix cstephens@infinet-is.com ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C1C291.3E3E47C0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Does anyone know of a source for a = rubber bulb=20 sprinkler (used in indoor seed starting)? I haven't had any luck = searcing=20 the web.
 
Charlie Stephens
Master=20 Gardener
Phoenix
cstephens@infinet-is.com
------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C1C291.3E3E47C0-- From bah3@cox.net Sun Mar 3 17:57:30 2002 From: bah3@cox.net (Bruce) Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 09:57:30 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] transplanting "bottle" trees Message-ID: <3C82640A.726FECBE@cox.net> Hi, I have 3 bottle trees that have been in the ground for 3+ years. They are probably 18 ft high. How easily can they be transplanted? Or how well do they survive transplanting? Any precautions that need to be addressed when doing so? The trees are located in Lake Havasu City by the way. Thanks Bruce From bellben@email.com Sun Mar 3 18:28:30 2002 From: bellben@email.com (bello ben) Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 13:28:30 -0500 Subject: [Arid_gardener] URGENT INVESTMENT MANAGEMENT Message-ID: <20020303182830.17442.qmail@email.com> STRICTLY CONFIDENTIAL DEAR SIR, PROPOSAL FOR A PARTICIPATORY FINANCIAL TRANSACTION I AM MAKING THIS CONTACT WITH YOU ON BEHALF OF MY COLLEAGUES AFTER ANACCEPTABLE RECOMMENDATION FROM AN INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS AGENCY. MY COLLEAGUES AND I ARE MEMBERS OF THE TENDER’S AND CONTRACT AWARD COMMITTEEOF THE NIGERIAN NATIONAL PETROLEUM CORPORATION (NNPC). MY COLLEAGUESHAVE MANDATED ME TO LOOK FOR A TRUSTWORTHY COMPANY/INDIVIDUAL IN WHOSEACCOUNT SOME FUNDS COULD BE TRANSFERRED. WE HAVE IN OUR POSSESSION, INSTRUMENTOF PAYMENT FOR US$40M (FORTY MILLION UNITED STATES DOLLARS ONLY), WHICHIS NOW IN A DEDICATED ACCOUNT WITH THE CENTRAL BANK OF NIGERIA (CBN). THE ABOVE FUND CAME FROM THE OVER-INVOICED OF CONTRACT AWARDED TO A CONSORTIUMOF FOREIGN FIRMS IN 1998 FOR THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE ELEME PETROCHEMICALAND LIQUEFIED NATURAL GAS IN PORT-HARCOUT WORTH US$1.2 BILLION. THE CONTRACTHAD BEEN EXECUTED AND THE ORIGINAL CONTRACTOR PAID IN FULL. HENCE THEUS$40M IN QUESTION IS THEREFORE FREE TO BE TRANSFERRED OVERSEAS UPONPROPER APPLICATION WITHOUT ANY RISK WHATSOEVER. DUE TO THE NATURE OFACCRUAL OF THIS FUND, IT HAS TO BE APPLIED FOR BY A FOREIGN CONTRACTOR/COMPANYAND PAYMENT CAN ONLY BE MADE INTO A FOREIGN ACCOUNT HENCE THIS CONTACTIS NECESSARY TO ACCOMPLISH THIS DEAL. YOU (OR YOUR COMPANY) SHALL BE COMPENSATED WITH 30% OF THE AMOUNT ASTHE ACCOUNT OWNER, 5% SHALL BE USED FOR REIMBURSEMENT OF ALL EXPENSESTHAT WILL BE INCURRED BY BOTH PARTIES DURING THE COURSE OF THIS FINANCIALTRANSACTION. THE REMAINING 65% IS FOR MY COLLEAGUES AND I. WE SHALL URGENTLYREQUIRE OF YOU THE FOLLOWING BY FAX: 1. NAME, TELEPHONE AND FAX NUMBER OF BENEFICIARY 2. NAME AND FULL ADDRESS OF THE COMPANY 3. COMPLETE PARTICULARS OF THE BANK ACCOUNT WHERE THE FUND IS TO BE TRANSFERRED.THIS SHOULD INCLUDE THE ACCOUNT NUMBER, TELEPHONE, FAX AND TELEX NUMBEROF THE BANK. MY COLLEAGUES AND I HAVE MADE SOME FRUITFUL DISCUSSION WITH RELEVANTTOP OFFICIALS OF BOTH THE FEDERAL MINISTRY OF FINANCE (FMF) AND THE CENTRALBANK OF NIGERIA (CBN) AND THEY HAVE AGREED TO CO-OPERATE TO TRANSFER. AN APPLICATION FOR FUND TRANSFER SHALL BE MADE AT THE APPROPRIATE MINISTRIESIN FAVOUR OF THE BENEFICIARY, YOU OR YOUR COMPANY. THEREAFTER, THE COMPANYSHALL BE OFFICIALLY REGARDED AS HAVING EXECUTED THE CONTRACT FOR THENIGERIAN NATIONAL PETROLEUM CORPORATION (NNPC) FOR WHICH PAYMENT IS BEINGMADE. THIS PROGRESS MAKES THE OPERATION LEGAL ACCORDING TO THE LAW OFTHE FEDERAL REPUBLIC OF NIGERIA. HOWEVER, BEFORE FURTHER DETAILS OF THIS LAUDABLE TRANSACTION WILL BEREVEALED TO YOU, I MUST BE CONVINCED OF YOUR INTEGRITY, TRANSPARENCYAND HONESTY BECAUSE THIS IS A HIGHLY CONFIDENTIAL BUSINESS TRANSACTIONTHAT REQUIRES SOMEONE WITH EXPERIENCE, EXPOSURE AND MORE THAN AVERAGEMEANS OF LIVELIHOOD. PLEASE TAKE THIS TRANSACTION AND STRICTLY CONFIDENTIAL, AS WE ARE CIVILSERVANTS WHO WOULD NOT WANT ANY EXPOSURE, AS WE INTEND TO JOIN POLITICSSOONEST. I EXPECT YOUR REPLY SOONEST THROUGH THE ABOVE TELEPHONE AND FAX NUMBERS. THANKS FOR YOUR ANTICIPATED CO-OPERATION. REGARDS DR BELLO BEN. -- _______________________________________________ Sign-up for your own FREE Personalized E-mail at Email.com http://www.email.com/?sr=signup From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Mar 3 18:37:19 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 13:37:19 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Blood Orange Message-ID: --part1_d1.14de3fcc.29b3c75f_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Blood orange can be grown sucessfully here in the low desert, however as with most citrus, young trees should be protected when we have freezing temperatures forecast. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_d1.14de3fcc.29b3c75f_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Blood orange can be grown sucessfully here in the low desert, however as with most citrus, young trees should be protected when we have freezing temperatures forecast.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_d1.14de3fcc.29b3c75f_boundary-- From gardenguru" Message-ID: <001101c1c2e4$ea667600$41382ace@ibm22761658747> There are 2 varieties of Blood Oranges recommended for our region. Moro - a vigorous, medium size tree. They are slow to come into bearing commonly taking a year or two longer than navel oranges. Harvest = mid Nov. to Feb. can become musky if held on the tree past its peak harvest period. Sanguinelli - small to med size tree. compact and productive. Harvest Feb to Apr. Harder to peel than Moro but fewer seeds. Hold well on the tree. Hope this helps GG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2002 7:54 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I WANT TO PLANT A BLOOD ORANGE TREE IN SUN CITY WEST AND WONDER HOW WELL THEY DO HERE? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Mar 3 18:55:00 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 13:55:00 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] transplanting "bottle" trees Message-ID: --part1_dc.13a9fe0b.29b3cb84_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bruce, Because of the size of your bottle trees I would suggest that you have a contractor with a tree scoop do the job for you. Do it asap before the temperatures get hot. Be sure to water adequately and guy the trees when transplanted. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_dc.13a9fe0b.29b3cb84_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bruce,

Because of the size of your bottle trees I would suggest that you have a contractor with a tree scoop do the job for you. Do it asap before the temperatures get hot. Be sure to water adequately and guy the trees when transplanted.

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
--part1_dc.13a9fe0b.29b3cb84_boundary-- From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Sun Mar 3 18:59:04 2002 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 11:59:04 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] URGENT INVESTMENT MANAGEMENT (hoax) References: <20020303182830.17442.qmail@email.com> Message-ID: <000901c1c2e5$8330d740$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> The message below is a complete hoax. It has been around for a number of years. Do not reply to it--they will ask you for earnest money prior to wiring you the alleged 40M. Once they receive your earnest money you will never hear from them again. Scott Rogers ----- Original Message ----- From: "bello ben" To: Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2002 11:28 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] URGENT INVESTMENT MANAGEMENT > STRICTLY CONFIDENTIAL > > > DEAR SIR, > > PROPOSAL FOR A PARTICIPATORY FINANCIAL TRANSACTION > > I AM MAKING THIS CONTACT WITH YOU ON BEHALF OF MY COLLEAGUES AFTER ANACCEPTABLE RECOMMENDATION FROM AN INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS AGENCY. > > MY COLLEAGUES AND I ARE MEMBERS OF THE TENDER'S AND CONTRACT AWARD COMMITTEEOF THE NIGERIAN NATIONAL PETROLEUM CORPORATION (NNPC). MY COLLEAGUESHAVE MANDATED ME TO LOOK FOR A TRUSTWORTHY COMPANY/INDIVIDUAL IN WHOSEACCOUNT SOME FUNDS COULD BE TRANSFERRED. WE HAVE IN OUR POSSESSION, INSTRUMENTOF PAYMENT FOR US$40M (FORTY MILLION UNITED STATES DOLLARS ONLY), WHICHIS NOW IN A DEDICATED ACCOUNT WITH THE CENTRAL BANK OF NIGERIA (CBN). > > THE ABOVE FUND CAME FROM THE OVER-INVOICED OF CONTRACT AWARDED TO A CONSORTIUMOF FOREIGN FIRMS IN 1998 FOR THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE ELEME PETROCHEMICALAND LIQUEFIED NATURAL GAS IN PORT-HARCOUT WORTH US$1.2 BILLION. THE CONTRACTHAD BEEN EXECUTED AND THE ORIGINAL CONTRACTOR PAID IN FULL. HENCE THEUS$40M IN QUESTION IS THEREFORE FREE TO BE TRANSFERRED OVERSEAS UPONPROPER APPLICATION WITHOUT ANY RISK WHATSOEVER. DUE TO THE NATURE OFACCRUAL OF THIS FUND, IT HAS TO BE APPLIED FOR BY A FOREIGN CONTRACTOR/COMPANYAND PAYMENT CAN ONLY BE MADE INTO A FOREIGN ACCOUNT HENCE THIS CONTACTIS NECESSARY TO ACCOMPLISH THIS DEAL. > > YOU (OR YOUR COMPANY) SHALL BE COMPENSATED WITH 30% OF THE AMOUNT ASTHE ACCOUNT OWNER, 5% SHALL BE USED FOR REIMBURSEMENT OF ALL EXPENSESTHAT WILL BE INCURRED BY BOTH PARTIES DURING THE COURSE OF THIS FINANCIALTRANSACTION. THE REMAINING 65% IS FOR MY COLLEAGUES AND I. WE SHALL URGENTLYREQUIRE OF YOU THE FOLLOWING BY FAX: > 1. NAME, TELEPHONE AND FAX NUMBER OF BENEFICIARY > 2. NAME AND FULL ADDRESS OF THE COMPANY > 3. COMPLETE PARTICULARS OF THE BANK ACCOUNT WHERE THE FUND IS TO BE TRANSFERRED.THIS SHOULD INCLUDE THE ACCOUNT NUMBER, TELEPHONE, FAX AND TELEX NUMBEROF THE BANK. > > MY COLLEAGUES AND I HAVE MADE SOME FRUITFUL DISCUSSION WITH RELEVANTTOP OFFICIALS OF BOTH THE FEDERAL MINISTRY OF FINANCE (FMF) AND THE CENTRALBANK OF NIGERIA (CBN) AND THEY HAVE AGREED TO CO-OPERATE TO TRANSFER. > > AN APPLICATION FOR FUND TRANSFER SHALL BE MADE AT THE APPROPRIATE MINISTRIESIN FAVOUR OF THE BENEFICIARY, YOU OR YOUR COMPANY. THEREAFTER, THE COMPANYSHALL BE OFFICIALLY REGARDED AS HAVING EXECUTED THE CONTRACT FOR THENIGERIAN NATIONAL PETROLEUM CORPORATION (NNPC) FOR WHICH PAYMENT IS BEINGMADE. THIS PROGRESS MAKES THE OPERATION LEGAL ACCORDING TO THE LAW OFTHE FEDERAL REPUBLIC OF NIGERIA. > > HOWEVER, BEFORE FURTHER DETAILS OF THIS LAUDABLE TRANSACTION WILL BEREVEALED TO YOU, I MUST BE CONVINCED OF YOUR INTEGRITY, TRANSPARENCYAND HONESTY BECAUSE THIS IS A HIGHLY CONFIDENTIAL BUSINESS TRANSACTIONTHAT REQUIRES SOMEONE WITH EXPERIENCE, EXPOSURE AND MORE THAN AVERAGEMEANS OF LIVELIHOOD. > > PLEASE TAKE THIS TRANSACTION AND STRICTLY CONFIDENTIAL, AS WE ARE CIVILSERVANTS WHO WOULD NOT WANT ANY EXPOSURE, AS WE INTEND TO JOIN POLITICSSOONEST. > > I EXPECT YOUR REPLY SOONEST THROUGH THE ABOVE TELEPHONE AND FAX NUMBERS. > > THANKS FOR YOUR ANTICIPATED CO-OPERATION. > > REGARDS > > DR BELLO BEN. > > -- > > _______________________________________________ > Sign-up for your own FREE Personalized E-mail at Email.com > http://www.email.com/?sr=signup > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From gardenguru" Message-ID: <001f01c1c2e6$512488e0$41382ace@ibm22761658747> The County offers a doc at this web site to help you with problems with your palms. Tip browing is often a problem with salt buildup which is related to irrigation. Palms also need to feed fertilzer specific to palms that is available at any nursery dept. They need the trace minerals as well as nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. AZ1021 Arizona Landscape Palms http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm check out this publication Hope this helps GG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, March 01, 2002 3:50 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Fronds of palms (pigmys, mexican fan and queen) turn brown - what is the reason. What should one do to remedy browning of fronds. Should one get professional help? > Thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From garycrapshooter@earthlink.net Sun Mar 3 19:13:39 2002 From: garycrapshooter@earthlink.net (garycrapshooter@earthlink.net) Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 12:13:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203031913.g23JDdh23387@Ag.arizona.edu> I AM NEW TO THE AREA & WOULD LIKE TO KNOW WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO PLANT GRAPES & WHAT TYPE WOULD BE THE BEST KIND OF TABLE GRAPE From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Mar 3 19:30:46 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 14:30:46 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palm tree fronds turning brown Message-ID: <14c.9d2b5b1.29b3d3e6@aol.com> --part1_14c.9d2b5b1.29b3d3e6_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It is normal for the older (lower) fronds of palm trees to turn brown. Our hot drying winds during summer help to accelerate this process. If palms especially queen palms do not receive adequate irrigation and fertilization the fronds will tell us by appearing abnormal. Check out the following sites about Palm Tree Care and Irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_14c.9d2b5b1.29b3d3e6_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It is normal for the older (lower) fronds of palm trees to turn brown. Our hot drying winds during summer help to accelerate this process. If palms especially queen palms do not receive adequate irrigation and fertilization the fronds will tell us by appearing abnormal.
Check out the following sites about Palm Tree Care and Irrigation:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
--part1_14c.9d2b5b1.29b3d3e6_boundary-- From cstephens@infinet-is.com Sun Mar 3 19:39:35 2002 From: cstephens@infinet-is.com (cstephens@infinet-is.com) Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 12:39:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203031939.g23JdZh29482@Ag.arizona.edu> Does anyone know of a source for a rubber bulb sprinkler (used in indoor seed starting)? I haven't had any luck searcing the web. Charlie Stephens Master Gardener Phoenix From rmford1@mindspring.com Sun Mar 3 20:01:49 2002 From: rmford1@mindspring.com (Renea Ford) Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 13:01:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Jacobina = Red Justica? Message-ID: <002401c1c2ee$4281eaa0$668b85ce@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01C1C2B3.94FE1AA0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have identified one of my shrubs as Jacobinia (Jacobinia ovata) from A = Field Guide to the Plants of Arizona. It looks very similar to the = picture of Red Justicia (Justicia candicans) in Native Plants for = Southwestern Landscapes. Are they the same plant (descriptions are = almost identical) or two similar plants, both in the Acanthus family? = If different, is there another common name for the Jacobinia? ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01C1C2B3.94FE1AA0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I have identified one of my shrubs as Jacobinia = (Jacobinia=20 ovata) from A Field Guide to the Plants of Arizona.  It looks very = similar=20 to the picture of Red Justicia (Justicia candicans) in Native Plants for = Southwestern Landscapes.  Are they the same plant (descriptions are = almost=20 identical) or two similar plants, both in the Acanthus = family?  If=20 different, is there another common name for the=20 Jacobinia?
------=_NextPart_000_0021_01C1C2B3.94FE1AA0-- From Carleneebr@aol.com Sun Mar 3 20:31:44 2002 From: Carleneebr@aol.com (Carleneebr@aol.com) Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 13:31:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203032031.g23KVih04277@Ag.arizona.edu> I have been trying to find seeds or seedlings for Hoops or Hoopes Blue Spruce trees,. Can they be started from seeds or cones, and if so how old would the tree have to be? Would greatly appreciate any information or website you could provide me on this matter. Thank you, Carlene From dunstanjason@aol.com Sun Mar 3 22:29:51 2002 From: dunstanjason@aol.com (dunstanjason@aol.com) Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 15:29:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203032229.g23MTph15572@Ag.arizona.edu> i need to know how much water a mexican fan palm needs fertilizer ect. From undecidedu@aol.com Sun Mar 3 23:01:33 2002 From: undecidedu@aol.com (undecidedu@aol.com) Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 16:01:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203032301.g23N1Xh19137@Ag.arizona.edu> Would Sea Lavendar grow in this area, and what are it's sun and water requirements. Thank you From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Sun Mar 3 23:29:49 2002 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 16:29:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palm Care References: <200203032229.g23MTph15572@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000701c1c30b$51e4f2e0$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> Here is a link to our publication "Arizona Landscape Palms"(AZ1021) http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Ornamentals This publication has detailed instructions for caring for your palm. Scott Rogers MG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2002 3:29 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > i need to know how much water a mexican fan palm needs fertilizer ect. From cstephens@infinet-is.com Mon Mar 4 01:34:33 2002 From: cstephens@infinet-is.com (cstephens@infinet-is.com) Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 18:34:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203040134.g241YWh03621@Ag.arizona.edu> Does anyone know of a source for a rubber bulb sprinkler (used in indoor seed starting)? I haven't had any luck searcing the web. Charlie Stephens Master Gardener Phoenix From gardenguru" Message-ID: <009a01c1c37e$7d8a5d40$41382ace@ibm22761658747> The County offers a doc at this web site to help you with your Mex Fan palms. AZ1021 Arizona Landscape Palms http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html will also provide data or irrigation needs. Hope this helps GG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2002 3:29 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > i need to know how much water a mexican fan palm needs fertilizer ect. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From gardenguru" Message-ID: <00dd01c1c387$7ebb7420$41382ace@ibm22761658747> This web site offers info on 7 different spruce trees indigenous to North America. It does show any data on the Hoopes Blue Spruce but they may have additional if you contact them. http://www.treehelp.com Hope this helps GG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2002 1:31 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I have been trying to find seeds or seedlings for Hoops or Hoopes Blue Spruce trees,. Can they be started from seeds or cones, and if so how old would the tree have to be? Would greatly appreciate any information or website you could provide me on this matter. Thank you, Carlene > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From JeanSciFi@aol.com Mon Mar 4 14:29:52 2002 From: JeanSciFi@aol.com (JeanSciFi@aol.com) Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 09:29:52 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Strawberry Pots Message-ID: <68.1c67c93a.29b4dee0@aol.com> I'm trying my first strawberry pot. The one I selected has 20 openings for plants. Right now I'm using a pot sealer to try and extend the life of the Mexican pot. I'm thinking of coiling a soaker hose inside the pot as I fill with potting soil. Since the hose may clog with minerals I was thinking of drilling .25 inch holes in the hose. Do you think this method will help distribute water to all the plants? What is the best evergreen type strawberry for the low desert? Any hints on the planting process? Thanks, Jean From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Mar 4 15:02:43 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 15:02:43 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Strawberry Pots Message-ID: >From: JeanSciFi@aol.com >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Strawberry Pots >Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 09:29:52 EST > > >I'm trying my first strawberry pot. The one I selected has 20 openings for >plants. Right now I'm using a pot sealer to try and extend the life of the >Mexican pot. > >I'm thinking of coiling a soaker hose inside the pot as I fill with potting >soil. Since the hose may clog with minerals I was thinking of drilling .25 >inch holes in the hose. Do you think this method will help distribute >water >to all the plants? > >What is the best evergreen type strawberry for the low desert? Any hints >on >the planting process? > >Thanks, Jean >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Jean, I've seen some success with pvc pipe. Cut a length to fit your pot top to bottom. Seal the end at the bottom with a cap. Drill holes (about 1/4") through the pipe and at right angles to each other as you go up the pipe. Put a removable cap on top to keep out dirt. Just fill the pipe with water to irrigate the pot. Linda Drew Master Gardener _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From espceramics@cox.net Mon Mar 4 15:44:40 2002 From: espceramics@cox.net (espceramics@cox.net) Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 08:44:40 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203041544.g24Fied18268@Ag.arizona.edu> What are the most suitable evergreen plants or shrubs for planting along a full sun driveway? Thank you From sjbass@qwest.net Mon Mar 4 16:44:19 2002 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 09:44:19 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Limonium (Statice) a.k.a. "Sea Lavender References: <200203032301.g23N1Xh19137@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C83A463.8AF4450B@qwest.net> According the the Sunset Western Garden Book, some species are listed for our Sunset zone 13. I have seen Sea Lavender in nurseries. The book states that all species tolerate heat and many soils but need good drainage. The book also states that they take little water once established. They are listed as a full-sun plant, but I would suspect it would be wise to shelter them from late afternoon sun here in the desert. They are also known to self-sow. Sue Bass Master Gardener undecidedu@aol.com wrote: > Would Sea Lavendar grow in this area, and what are it's sun and water requirements. Thank you > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Mar 4 16:46:34 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 09:46:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Help for a dying 'lucky bamboo' References: <0345590FEC321047917FA0BC6D292EB2A7255B@post.goucher.edu> Message-ID: <3C83A4EA.86C43D9A@qwest.net> Here is a source closer to home [Midatlantic Bamboo] who might be of assistance. http://www.midatlanticbamboo.com/ We are located in Maricopa County [Phoenix], Arizona and would not be as knowledgeable about some of the things you asked. Linda Guy, MG "Sackin, Erica" wrote: > I bought my lucky bamboo plant, typical three stalks in water and rocks, about nine months ago, and it was very healthy, until I left it under the care of a friend over the month of January. When I came back, most of the leaves on the bottom parts of the stem had turned yellow and were all dried up. I took it home and tried to bring it back to life, but it seems to just get worse and worse. Of the three pieces of bamboo, the smallest one is fine and healthy in the original stalk, and the bottom of the stem that sprouted from it is healthy, but the leaves and the new growth at the top of the stalk have turned almost completely yellow and thin and dried up. For the medium piece, the bottom of the original stalk is fine, but the top of it has started to turn yellow, and the stem that sprouted from it has turned yellow and soft (almoot bendable) all the way up to a few leaves down from the new growth. The tallest stalk is a mess as well. Like the others, the bottom of the ! > original stalk is healthy, but the only way I can think of describing the top half of the original stalk is that its skin has become yellow and wrinled (but the stalk itself is still strong). The bottom leaves on the stem that sprouted have mostly yellow and dried up, and I removed most of them. Some of the upper leaves have started to turn yellow on the tips and edges, but so far the stem itself is only yellow at its base. Is there anything I can do for it? It may have been the water, my friend lives in the city where the water supply is probably not as clean as the suburbs where I live. It also probably has gotten more exposure to cold, as it may have been near an open window (of course I think it may have also been placed near a heater) My friend thought that maybe the roots had grown too big for the small pot it came in. I know that he also didn't water it as much as he should have, and when I picked it up it, the rocks were almost completely dried up. Is there an! > y way to salvage it, and make sure this doesn't happen again? Thanks a > lot, > Erica in Baltimore > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Mar 4 16:48:02 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 09:48:02 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf Questions References: <164.9844c60.29ae8d1d@aol.com> Message-ID: <3C83A541.A0F3193F@qwest.net> --------------982A9C32453A22C7A55C7436 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If our colleague Jack hasn't replied, you might want to consult the lawn chapter of the Master Gardener Manual for general guidance. http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ Good luck! Linda Guy, MG Moneses@aol.com wrote: > Dear Cactus Jack, > I took your course on drip irrigation at the Botanical garden in the > fall. > We are now ready to embark on our landscaping project. > I had a couple of questions. > ***When putting in a sod lawn, you had said to till in 2-3 inches of > mulch and 1 inch of something else. What was the something else? And > where can I get it in bulk? We're putting in about 2,200 square feet > of lawn. > ***When planting desert trees with the water drips underground, how do > you stop the tree roots from clogging the drip tubes? > Thank you and I really enjoyed taking your course. > Lisa Bol --------------982A9C32453A22C7A55C7436 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If our colleague Jack hasn't replied, you might want to consult the lawn chapter of the Master Gardener Manual for general guidance.  http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/

Good luck!

Linda Guy, MG

Moneses@aol.com wrote:

Dear Cactus Jack,
I took your course on drip irrigation at the Botanical garden in the fall.
We are now ready to embark on our  landscaping project.
I had a couple of questions.
***When putting in a sod lawn, you had said to till in 2-3 inches of mulch and 1 inch of something else.  What was the something else?  And where can I get it in bulk?  We're putting in about 2,200 square feet of lawn.
***When planting desert trees with the water drips underground, how do you stop the tree roots from clogging the drip tubes?
Thank you and I really enjoyed taking your course.
Lisa Bol
--------------982A9C32453A22C7A55C7436-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Mar 4 16:49:42 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 09:49:42 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Yearround Grass for Phoenix References: <200202272029.g1RKTQx08114@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C83A5A6.2B4909A@qwest.net> Not really. Check out the turf chpater in our Master Gardener Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ or use the search function of our archives to pull up previous discussions on this subject. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/question.htm Linda Guy, MG sb@asmc.phxcoxmail.com wrote: > Is there a perrenial grass that will grow year round in Phoenix? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Mar 4 18:25:15 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 11:25:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning Bayonet Yucca References: <200203021832.g22IWJh23267@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C83BC0B.F9CBFE37@qwest.net> Since I've never gotten up close and personal with this particular yucca, I consulted all my references on plants for arid climates. These are usually pruned only as the leaves dry up and die, although some elect to retain the natural appearance and forego pruning. I found one source [Jones/Sacamano] which actually suggested removing that wicked terminal spike from new leaves as they emerge, to prevent the very problem you are currently confronted with over the long run. Johnson's pruning and planting guide recommends September as the best time to trim. I guess I can only encourage you to wear leather gloves, preferably with long arm extensions, as well as several layers of long sleeves. At least the weather is a little cooler for the job! I do not recommend tearing the leaves away as this would expose the trunk to the possibility of sunburn, disease and pests. Linda Guy, MG camaz29@hotmail.com wrote: > Is there an easy way to cut back dead/damaged spikes on the Spanish Bayonet Yucca? The sharp edges and points pose a hazard when attempting to trim with a knife or clipper, and also when trying to "strip" the leaf by pulling on it. Haven't found anything on this in the knowledge base. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From djmurray11@hotmail.com Mon Mar 4 20:41:16 2002 From: djmurray11@hotmail.com (djmurray11@hotmail.com) Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 13:41:16 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203042041.g24KfGd02068@Ag.arizona.edu> How do you treat a queen palm approximately 15 years old that has a fungus. The fronds are coming out very ragged and immature looking. I have noticed several in our area that look the same way. Any help is appreciated. From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Mar 4 21:56:50 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 14:56:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palm Fungus References: <200203042041.g24KfGd02068@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C83EDA2.43E5F60B@qwest.net> --------------0860F08E25938E949EBA9464 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit What you describe could simply be a nutrient deficiency. Check out our palm publication at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Another place that discusses conditions of palm trees, including the purported fungal condition 'bud rot', is the Master Gardener Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/pathology/specificornamental.html#palm I say purported because the UA pathologists are still on the trail of the condition and are not quite sure what it is. Here is an excerpt from a recent newsletter: "My lab is anxious to find out more about the elusive problem known as "bud rot" of Queen palm, and we need sections of trees and root samples to assay for pathogens. Please advise Master Gardeners, homeowners and landscape professionals that, in order to work on this problem, destructive sampling is required. Unfortunately, using a chain saw is about the only way to effectively sample the internal tissue throughout the tree, and digging out many of the roots is the only way to get good root samples." However, it sounds to me that your trees might simply need some good fertilization and watering, which the references above can describe well to you. If they fail to thrive after all treatments, and you or your landscape specialists still believe it to be fungus, please consider the UA's plea above! Linda Guy, MG djmurray11@hotmail.com wrote: > How do you treat a queen palm approximately 15 years old that has a fungus. The fronds are coming out very ragged and immature looking. I have noticed several in our area that look the same way. Any help is appreciated. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener --------------0860F08E25938E949EBA9464 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit What you describe could simply be a nutrient deficiency. Check out our palm publication at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm

Another place that discusses conditions of palm trees, including the purported fungal condition 'bud rot', is the Master Gardener Manual at
http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/pathology/specificornamental.html#palm

I say purported because  the UA pathologists are still on the trail of the condition and are not quite sure what it is. Here is an excerpt from a recent newsletter:

"My lab is anxious to find out more about the elusive problem known as "bud
rot" of Queen palm, and we need sections of trees and root samples to assay
for pathogens. Please advise Master Gardeners, homeowners and landscape
professionals that, in order to work on this problem, destructive sampling
is required.  Unfortunately, using a chain saw is about the only way to
effectively sample the internal tissue throughout the tree, and digging out
many of the roots is the only way to get good root samples."

However, it sounds to me that your trees might simply need some good fertilization and watering, which the references above can describe well to you.

If they fail to thrive after all treatments, and you or your landscape specialists still believe it to be fungus, please consider the UA's plea above!

Linda Guy, MG
 
 

djmurray11@hotmail.com wrote:

How do you treat a queen palm approximately 15 years old that has a fungus.  The fronds are coming out very ragged and immature looking.  I have noticed several in our area that look the same way.  Any help is appreciated.

_______________________________________________
Arid_gardener mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener

--------------0860F08E25938E949EBA9464-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Mar 4 22:14:39 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 17:14:39 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palm with ragged fronds Message-ID: --part1_ca.7832ead.29b54bcf_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit >From what you've described it sounds like your queen palm has a nutrient deficiency instead of a fungus. Some people in the industry have erroneously called these symptoms Bud Rot, however the plant pathology department at Univ. of Arizona has only identified three cases of bud rot of queen palms in many years, so the chances of your tree having bud rot are very slim. Queen palms are not well adapted to our climate conditions here in the low desert, consequently they must have proper care in order to survive. They should be fertilized three to four times a year with a special palm fertilizer plus be irrigated properly. If the condition you describe is severe I would suggest that you have the tree inspected by a certified arborist who will propose a course of treatment. The following links should be helpful: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://www2.champaign.isa-arbor.com/arborists/arborist.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_ca.7832ead.29b54bcf_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit From what you've described it sounds like your queen palm has a nutrient deficiency instead of a fungus. Some people in the industry have erroneously called these symptoms Bud Rot, however the plant pathology department at Univ. of Arizona has only identified three cases of bud rot of queen palms in many years, so the chances of your tree having bud rot are very slim.
Queen palms are not well adapted to our climate conditions here in the low desert, consequently they must have proper care in order to survive.
They should be fertilized three to four times a year with a special palm fertilizer plus be irrigated properly.
If the condition you describe is severe I would suggest that you have the tree inspected by a certified arborist who will propose a course of treatment.
The following links should be helpful: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf    http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html
http://www2.champaign.isa-arbor.com/arborists/arborist.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
--part1_ca.7832ead.29b54bcf_boundary-- From D Sparrow" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_02D3_01C1C398.7CCBA250 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Year round Grass for Phoenix. Might not want to pursue that too far. =20 A plant that adaptable could be hard to control in your own yard and if = it spreads elsewhere as some grasses have... May be a case of needing to be careful what we wish for. For example of unintentional effects from an introduced grass, see = http://ag.arizona.edu/classes/ram446/labsyll/exotics.html on Buffel = grass. This grass is crowding out other species, creating fire hazards = and depleting soil nutrients. =20 D Sparrow MG Maricopa County ------=_NextPart_000_02D3_01C1C398.7CCBA250 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Year round Grass for = Phoenix. Might not want=20 to pursue that too far. 
A plant that adaptable could be hard=20 to control in your own yard and if it spreads elsewhere as = some=20 grasses have...
May be a case of needing to be careful = what we wish=20 for.
 
For example of unintentional effects = from=20 an introduced grass, see = http://ag.arizona.edu/classes/ram446/labsyll/exotics.html=  on Buffel grass.  This grass is crowding out other species, creating fire = hazards and=20 depleting soil nutrients. 
 
D Sparrow
MG Maricopa County
 
 
------=_NextPart_000_02D3_01C1C398.7CCBA250-- From umiller@azdps.com Mon Mar 4 23:21:07 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 16:21:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sea Lavender In-Reply-To: <200203032301.g23N1Xh19137@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: I'm not familiar with sea lavender, so I looked it up in my trusty and dog-eared Sunset Western Garden Book. It says that it tolerates heat and needs good drainage. Apparently the only kind that DOESN'T grow well here is latifolium. But when I searched the web, it seemed like sea lavender is very popular in places with marshes or places near the ocean with high humidity. So it might be tricky in this dry climate. I grow other types of lavenders and they thrive here. But Sea Lavender appears to be Limonium, not actually a Lavender and I don't remember ever seeing it at nurseries. (Of course, I haven't been looking for it, either, so it would be easy to miss.) Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of undecidedu@aol.com Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2002 4:02 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Would Sea Lavendar grow in this area, and what are it's sun and water requirements. Thank you _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From gardenguru" Message-ID: <013f01c1c3ea$0639cf20$41382ace@ibm22761658747> There are several evergreen plants suitable for full sun. Zexmenia is a heat loving plant that grows about 2 to 3 ft high and blooms yellow flowers during the hottest part of the year. Prostrate rosemary also loves the heat and is also frost tolerant. Both would be considered ground cover plants. Shrubs include texas sage, ruella or petite oleanders. These are shrubs that grow to 4 to 5 feet There are several doc avail from the county ext. service for landscapes plants that work well in the Phx area MC05 Shrubs for Landscaping, MC34 Shrubs for Maricopa County - Drought Resistant MC30 Shrubs, Groundcovers, and Vines - Low Drought Resistant There are available from the for $1 ea Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Hope this helps GG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, March 04, 2002 8:44 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > What are the most suitable evergreen plants or shrubs for planting along a full sun driveway? > > Thank you > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From outridge1@qwest.net Tue Mar 5 08:30:52 2002 From: outridge1@qwest.net (Degan Outridge) Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 01:30:52 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] How to Kill Trees In-Reply-To: <21.16a90c4b.2960fd72@aol.com> Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20020305012623.00a58050@pop.tcsn.qwest.net> I have a grapefruit suffering from gummosis -- fruit this year was miniscule, bark sloughing and alligator-ing, deep fissures (quarter inch) that run from a few inches to a couple of feet up one trunk...the tree is over 30 years old and I think its time for it to go. What I'd like to do is prune it down to the trunk(s) and then kill the trunk and feeder roots so they don't inspire new growth once the burden of the tree is removed. Any recommendations? I'm also hoping to be able to pull the stump at some point and replant in the general area, as its a focal point with a patio shaped around one side of the canopy for shade. I'd appreciate advice on killing/rotting the trunk and roots, then how to chop/pull up a stump. I'd like to do this myself -- at least as much as possible. Thanks -_Degan From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Mar 5 13:36:42 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 06:36:42 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Blood Oranges in Sun City References: <200203030254.g232soh05538@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C84C9EA.53889AF7@qwest.net> I believe you already received a reply directing you to our publication on citrus varieties. I had an opportunity to taste a broad selection at a citrus clinic last January and spoke with Dean Bacon who is the the former (retired) farm manager for the UA citrus farm at Waddell. His favorite blood orange was Sanguinelli which he felt was better for clay soils and because it held its colors better than the others in mild winters. Second choice was Moro. Tarroco was not said to do well in Phoenix; I'm sorry but I didn't take notes as to why. Taste-wise, Moro was my personal favorite. Linda Guy, MG GEOMUM@webtv.net wrote: > I WANT TO PLANT A BLOOD ORANGE TREE IN SUN CITY WEST AND WONDER HOW WELL THEY DO HERE? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Mar 5 13:43:07 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 06:43:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapes in Phoenix Metro Area References: <200203031913.g23JDdh23387@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C84CB6B.5E2CE4C3@qwest.net> It is best to plant bare-root stock in late January through February. We have a pretty good fact sheet [MC-59] on the subject, which you can order at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Thompson, Flame, BlackMonukka and Perlette were listed as good for table grapes and raisin-making. Cardinal and Exotic were suggested for table or jelly. Concord can do well. Placement is important as you don't want overspray from lawn sprinklers, which make the grapes more susceptible to powdery mildew. Linda Guy, MG garycrapshooter@earthlink.net wrote: > I AM NEW TO THE AREA & WOULD LIKE TO KNOW WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO PLANT GRAPES & WHAT TYPE WOULD BE THE BEST KIND OF TABLE GRAPE > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Mar 5 13:47:19 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 06:47:19 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sealants for Raised Beds References: <200202270027.g1R0Rux22103@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C84CC67.24EB8E56@qwest.net> I don't have a specific product suggestion, but I would trust the folks at Home Depot, Lowe's or a local hardware store for guidance because this hasn't been a particularly inflammatory topic in garden circles, to my knowledge. Linda Guy, MG jkbryson@ureach.com wrote: > Do you have a recommendation for a sealant for concrete and masonry block? I'm working on a raised garden bed and I need to seal the concrete borders (to keep water from leaking through) before I prepare the soil. Do you have a recommendation for a good product for this type of thing? > > Any suggestions that you have would be appreciated. > > Julia Bryson > 480-926-2899 > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From clhopkin@srpnet.com Tue Mar 5 21:04:55 2002 From: clhopkin@srpnet.com (clhopkin@srpnet.com) Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 14:04:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203052104.g25L4t518140@Ag.arizona.edu> I know this is probably a stretch, but I'm trying to figure out why the grass under my dieing male Ash tree (sorry, I don't know the variety) has all died out while the grass under my female living Ash has not. Is it possible that the dieing Ash is poisoning the soil? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Mar 5 22:38:00 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 05 Mar 2002 22:38:00 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] grass dying under ash tree Message-ID: I would doubt that the ash is poisoning the soil. Do you know why the ash is dying? Perhaps the same thing is causing the grass to die-- lack of water, herbicide application, flooding, etc.?? Are the trees close together? What has been done regarding pruning, fertilization? Any new construction in the area? Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: clhopkin@srpnet.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 14:04:55 -0700 (MST) > >I know this is probably a stretch, but I'm trying to figure out why the >grass under my dieing male Ash tree (sorry, I don't know the variety) has >all died out while the grass under my female living Ash has not. Is it >possible that the dieing Ash is poisoning the soil? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From cenalmor@yahoo.com Tue Mar 5 22:42:46 2002 From: cenalmor@yahoo.com (Barbara Cenalmor) Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 14:42:46 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mystery tree In-Reply-To: <200203052104.g25L4t518140@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20020305224246.20550.qmail@web14706.mail.yahoo.com> --0-1195896427-1015368166=:19395 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii The other day I saw an interesting looking tree in Chandler. I can't tell you much about the tree (20 feet tall or so) because it had no leaves whatsoever, and nothing was really striking about the actual trunk and branches, but what called my attention were the flowers. They were about fist sized, bright red, and from where I was standing they looked like they had straight up tentacles. Please note I wasn't wearing my glasses :) I thought the tree looked so amazing with no leaves and these big red flowers on them. Does anybody have any clue of what tree this is? Thanks Barbara C. Master Gardener. --------------------------------- Do You Yahoo!? Try FREE Yahoo! Mail - the world's greatest free email! --0-1195896427-1015368166=:19395 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

The other day I saw an interesting looking tree in Chandler.  I can't tell you much about the tree (20 feet tall or so) because it had no leaves whatsoever, and nothing was really striking about the actual trunk and branches, but what called my attention were the flowers.  They were about fist sized, bright red, and from where I was standing they looked like they had straight up tentacles.  Please note I wasn't wearing my glasses :)  I thought the tree looked so amazing with no leaves and these big red flowers on them.  Does anybody have any clue of what tree this is?

Thanks

Barbara C.  Master Gardener.

 



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Try FREE Yahoo! Mail - the world's greatest free email! --0-1195896427-1015368166=:19395-- From gardenguru" Message-ID: <02ae01c1c52e$21f29cc0$41382ace@ibm22761658747> Local gardening stores sell Stump Remover that is used to rot/elimnate stumps. Regarding pulling the stump of a grapefruit tree, citrus are not actually trees but large shrubs. They do not have deep tap roots like trees but have a root system 2 to 3 ft deep that spreads to 1 foot outside of the canopy drip line. It is unlikely that you would be able to pull the entire root system even with a Chevy like on TV. If you plan to plant in the general area, I would suggest bringing in a professional with a backhoe or special tree removal equipment or invite several friends with stong backs and picks and shovels. You will have bring in additional top soil to refill the hole left after stump and root removal. Good Luck GG ----- Original Message ----- From: "Degan Outridge" To: Sent: Tuesday, March 05, 2002 1:30 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] How to Kill Trees > I have a grapefruit suffering from gummosis -- fruit this year was > miniscule, bark sloughing and alligator-ing, deep fissures (quarter inch) > that run from a few inches to a couple of feet up one trunk...the tree is > over 30 years old and I think its time for it to go. > > What I'd like to do is prune it down to the trunk(s) and then kill the > trunk and feeder roots so they don't inspire new growth once the burden of > the tree is removed. Any recommendations? > > I'm also hoping to be able to pull the stump at some point and replant in > the general area, as its a focal point with a patio shaped around one side > of the canopy for shade. I'd appreciate advice on killing/rotting the > trunk and roots, then how to chop/pull up a stump. I'd like to do this > myself -- at least as much as possible. Thanks > > -_Degan > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From Murphey358@aol.com Wed Mar 6 17:40:28 2002 From: Murphey358@aol.com (Murphey358@aol.com) Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 10:40:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203061740.g26HeS503140@Ag.arizona.edu> From Murphey358@aol.com Wed Mar 6 17:43:11 2002 From: Murphey358@aol.com (Murphey358@aol.com) Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 10:43:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203061743.g26HhB503838@Ag.arizona.edu> I received several pots of roses how do I plant these? There was no instructions with them. Is it too late, do I cut them back? They have about a foot of growth and one of them has 5 canes, do I lop it off? Help Thanks, Murphey From crymer@Ag.arizona.edu Wed Mar 6 17:54:58 2002 From: crymer@Ag.arizona.edu (Cathy Rymer) Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 10:54:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200203011705.g21H5Nx09504@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20020306100241.00afb2f0@ag.arizona.edu> The question about control of pearl scale in lawns is presented periodically on this list serve. Even the best treatments will only give 80% control and will need to be repeated annually. Pearl scale are tiny soil borne insects that attach themselves to the roots of hybrid Bermuda grass used as lawns in the Southwest. While in the "pearl" stage the insect is protected by the hard covering that surrounds it. It is only when the insects are in the "crawler" stage and unprotected that they are vulnerable to any means of control. Treatments should be applied from May 15 to the end of June. Symptoms of pearl scale damage appear on actively growing Bermuda hybrid lawns. Generally, small circular patches of dead grass are the first indication that these insects are feeding on the roots. These circular areas gradually increase in size. Samples dug the edges of the circles where the grass is green will reveal the scale insects. When the area is small, the affected sod and soil can be carefully removed and replaced. Be very careful with contaminated soil and the tools used to examine the lawn, as they can contaminate unaffected areas. Samples can be taken to the U of A Cooperative Extension office for free analysis. Sulfur or a sulfur bearing product gives some control by itself. Couple it with an insecticide designed for soil applications on lawns and the control may go up to 60 to 70%. Applications must be made and watered in thoroughly. At the present time the product known as Merit is not labeled for the control of pearl scale. As representatives of the University of Arizona, Master Gardeners cannot legally recommend the use of Merit for this pest. It is illegal to recommend the use of a product for anything that is not included on its label. You can check the Merit product specimen label at http://www.bayerprocentral.com/products/merit/index.html However, homeowners and golf course superintendents have noticed that using Merit for the control of white grubs in turf (which the label lists) has also resulted in a significant control of any pearl scale that might also be present. Common Bermuda seems to tolerate any pearl scale while Dichondra lawns don't seem to be affected. Good luck. Cathy At 10:05 AM 03/01/2002 -0700, jhom777@hotmail.com wrote: >I live in Glendale, AZ. My Santa Ana tiff lawn is infested with pearl >scales. What can I do about it? > >Is Bobsod an alternative? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Catherine Rymer Instructional Specialist, Sr., Urban Horticulture University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Phoenix, AZ 85040 http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Wed Mar 6 18:31:10 2002 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 11:31:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200203061743.g26HhB503838@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C86606E.79753AF1@email.sps.mot.com> Do not do any pruning or loping off now. Your going to need all the foliage you can get in order to shade the canes and protect them from sunburn during our hottest months just ahead. Dig your holes about 2 feet wide x 18" to 2 feet deep. I throw 1/2 cup of Triple Super phosphate and Disperesul in the bottom of my holes. cover with some potting soil, then transplant your rose into the hole. Make sure the graft is level or just above the original ground level. Fill in with a good potting soil mix. Take the native soil and form a well around your rose to retain water when you water the rose. This is the very best time for planting potted roses! Regards, -- Chat with you later... ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.gizmoaz.com Over 250 roses and over 160 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! ***** Year of the Rose, 2002! ***** Democracy is three wolves and one sheep voting on what to have for supper Murphey358@aol.com wrote: > I received several pots of roses how do I plant these? There was no instructions with them. Is it too late, do I cut them back? They have about a foot of growth and one of them has 5 canes, do I lop it off? > Help > Thanks, Murphey > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener -- ----- Motorola Semiconductor Products Sector R. Alan Zelhart Comprehensive Software Asset Management Web site: http://csam.mot.com 2100 East Elliot Road; Mail Drop EL714 Tempe, Arizona 85284 Work Phone: (480) 413-3470 Pager: (888) 996-9501 Fax: (480) 413-5723 Hey, this isn't my tagline ! Who put it here ? From Ndsnowbirds@att.net Thu Mar 7 02:47:33 2002 From: Ndsnowbirds@att.net (Ndsnowbirds@att.net) Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 19:47:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203070247.g272lX522532@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like to know if the lemons on our tree need to be taken off when it is blooming and setting new fruit? we are in Surprise for the winter months and will leave the second week in April. we also have orange and grapefruit trees, they are dwarf...do they need alot of water when they are setting new fruit?? if I pick the lemons will they keep very well in the refrigerator?? thank you very much From Ndsnowbirds@att.net Thu Mar 7 02:48:14 2002 From: Ndsnowbirds@att.net (Ndsnowbirds@att.net) Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 19:48:14 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203070248.g272mE522579@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like to know if the lemons on our tree need to be taken off when it is blooming and setting new fruit? we are in Surprise for the winter months and will leave the second week in April. we also have orange and grapefruit trees, they are dwarf...do they need alot of water when they are setting new fruit?? if I pick the lemons will they keep very well in the refrigerator?? thank you very much From skashennessy@aol.com Thu Mar 7 04:05:11 2002 From: skashennessy@aol.com (skashennessy@aol.com) Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 21:05:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203070405.g2745B505748@Ag.arizona.edu> How much water does my lawn need now, how long should the spinklers be on and how often? When should i start increasing the volumes over the next few months I have summer turf which has died off over the winter and want it to return the the lush green of last year when we purchased our home (and Garden!) in Arizona. From DSBroyles@aol.com Thu Mar 7 10:49:10 2002 From: DSBroyles@aol.com (DSBroyles@aol.com) Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 03:49:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203071049.g27AnA505452@Ag.arizona.edu> I'm on the Board of Directors for my HOA. I'm also on the Architectural Review committee. From time to time, residents will submit a review to place trees/plants in their yard, and we have an approved plant listing to go by. But sometimes it creates a problem. For example, one of the approved trees is a Ficus. A resident wants to place two Ficus Nitida trees in their front yard. Are these both the same thing. Where on the internet would I be most likely to research questions like this? Thank you for your time From DSBroyles@aol.com Thu Mar 7 10:49:55 2002 From: DSBroyles@aol.com (DSBroyles@aol.com) Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 03:49:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203071049.g27Ant505499@Ag.arizona.edu> I'm on the Board of Directors for my HOA. I'm also on the Architectural Review committee. From time to time, residents will submit a review to place trees/plants in their yard, and we have an approved plant listing to go by. But sometimes it creates a problem. For example, one of the approved trees is a Ficus. A resident wants to place two Ficus Nitida trees in their front yard. Are these both the same thing. Where on the internet would I be most likely to research questions like this? Thank you for your time From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Mar 7 14:26:45 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 14:26:45 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus care Message-ID: Hello It is O.K. to leave the lemons on the tree while it is blooming and setting new fruit. Citrus need more water now as the temperatures warm and the trees set fruit. Check this citrus irrigation publication online: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Check out other citrus publications that could be of assistance at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm You can pick the lemons now and store them in the refrigerator. For longer storage, juice the lemons, freeze the juice in ice cube trays, and put the cubes in plastic bags in your freezer. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Ndsnowbirds@att.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2002 19:48:14 -0700 (MST) > >I would like to know if the lemons on our tree need to be taken off when it >is blooming and setting new fruit? we are in Surprise for the winter months >and will leave the second week in April. we also have orange and grapefruit >trees, they are dwarf...do they need alot of water when they are setting >new fruit?? if I pick the lemons will they keep very well in the >refrigerator?? thank you very much > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From paulettegomez@hotmail.com Thu Mar 7 16:16:06 2002 From: paulettegomez@hotmail.com (paulettegomez@hotmail.com) Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 09:16:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203071616.g27GG6520960@Ag.arizona.edu> How to grow avacado tree. I have the seed started and plant growing now what? Looks like tall stick with small leaves on top. Been told to pinch, etc. Where can I get more information on this project From gardenguru" Message-ID: <031901c1c5f7$01963620$41382ace@ibm22761658747> Ficus Nitida is one of the trees that do well in AZ. It is fast growing to 25 ft H X 20 ft wide. It does not lose its leaves in the winter but does need adequate water. For more data you can obtain docs from the county ext service for $1 ea. They can assist your efforts in approving trees for your home owners. 8835 Trees - Effective Shade MC13 Trees for Maricopa County MC33 Trees for Maricopa County - Drought Resistant Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Hopes this helps GG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, March 07, 2002 3:49 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I'm on the Board of Directors for my HOA. I'm also on the Architectural Review committee. From time to time, residents will submit a review to place trees/plants in their yard, and we have an approved plant listing to go by. But sometimes it creates a problem. For example, one of the approved trees is a Ficus. A resident wants to place two Ficus Nitida trees in their front yard. Are these both the same thing. Where on the internet would I be most likely to research questions like this? Thank you for your time > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From cstephens@infinet-is.com Thu Mar 7 17:46:16 2002 From: cstephens@infinet-is.com (Charles Stephens) Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 10:46:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Dawn for Aphid Control Message-ID: <000e01c1c5ff$fc21f220$b686dfd1@default> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C1C5C5.4EC75500 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Does anyone have any experience with Dawn dishwasing liquid for aphid = control on vegetables since they changed to the "New Fast Acting = Formula" I'm concerned about the possibility of plant injury with the = new formula. Charlie ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C1C5C5.4EC75500 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Does anyone have any experience = with Dawn=20 dishwasing liquid for aphid control on vegetables since they changed to = the=20 "New Fast Acting Formula" I'm concerned about the possibility of = plant=20 injury with the new formula.
 
Charlie
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Registration and hotel information can also be downloaded at: http://www.ag.arizona.edu/srnr/ ------=_NextPart_000_0026_01C1C5C4.B65266C0 Content-Type: application/msword; name="2002 Final Summit Agenda.doc" Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="2002 Final Summit Agenda.doc" 0M8R4KGxGuEAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAPgADAP7/CQAGAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABAAAASwAAAAAAAAAA EAAATQAAAAEAAAD+////AAAAAEoAAAD///////////////////////////////////////////// //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// 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AwAAAAYJAgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAgCwHCqanBAU4AAACAAAAAAAAAADEAVABh AGIAbABlAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAOAAIA////////////////AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAJAAA ABkqAAAAAAAAVwBvAHIAZABEAG8AYwB1AG0AZQBuAHQAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABoAAgEFAAAA//////////8AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAALEYAAAAAAAAFAFMAdQBtAG0AYQByAHkASQBuAGYAbwByAG0AYQB0AGkA bwBuAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAKAACAQIAAAAEAAAA/////wAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADoAAAAAEAAAAAAAAAUARABvAGMAdQBtAGUAbgB0AFMA dQBtAG0AYQByAHkASQBuAGYAbwByAG0AYQB0AGkAbwBuAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA4AAIB//////////// ////AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAQgAAAAAQAAAAAAAAAQBDAG8A bQBwAE8AYgBqAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA ABIAAgEBAAAABgAAAP////8AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA agAAAAAAAABPAGIAagBlAGMAdABQAG8AbwBsAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAFgABAP///////////////wAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAIAsBwqmp wQEgCwHCqanBAQAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA////////////////AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAQAAAP7///////////////////// //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// //////////////////////////////////////////////8BAP7/AwoAAP////8GCQIAAAAAAMAA AAAAAABGGAAAAE1pY3Jvc29mdCBXb3JkIERvY3VtZW50AAoAAABNU1dvcmREb2MAEAAAAFdvcmQu RG9jdW1lbnQuOAD0ObJxAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA== ------=_NextPart_000_0026_01C1C5C4.B65266C0 Content-Type: text/plain; name="ATT00018.txt" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="ATT00018.txt" Larry D. Howery, Associate Professor & Rangeland Specialist School of Renewable Natural Resources 325 Biological Sciences East The University of Arizona Tucson, AZ 85721 520 621 7277 (P) 520 621 8801 (F) lhowery@ag.arizona.edu ------=_NextPart_000_0026_01C1C5C4.B65266C0-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Mar 7 18:27:54 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 18:27:54 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] How to grow an avocado tree Message-ID: >From: paulettegomez@hotmail.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 09:16:06 -0700 (MST) > >How to grow avacado tree. I have the seed started and plant growing now >what? Looks >like tall stick with small leaves on top. Been told to pinch, etc. Where >can I get more information on this project > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >From the web: The Art of South Florida Gardening by Harold Songdahl Sure you can grow an avocado tree from an avocado pit (and a mango tree from a mango pit). Don't bother rooting it on the windowsill first, put it right into the ground or in a pot of soil. You may have to wait as long as fourteen years for fruit (then again you might not) and the fruit may not be an exact copy of the fruit you got the pit from (but then again, it might just turn out to be better). Harold's neighbor planted the pit from one of Harold's avocados. It bore fruit in three years and was, Harold attests, the most delicious avocado he ever tasted. Florida gardeners from Key West to Lake Okeechobee and on up the coasts to Cape Canaveral and Tampa Bay know that gardening advice for the rest of the country just doesn't apply to them. South Florida gardening is unique, and The Art of South Florida Gardening is uniquely intended for south Florida gardeners. Author Harold Songdahl is a respected horticulturist who has planted, grown, transplanted, and propagated just about every kind of plant that grows in south Florida, experimented with hopeful newcomers, and accumulated first-hand knowledge and experience along the way. He and co-author Coralee Leon have produced and indispensable resource, full of real information, practical advice, and hands-on guidance never before assembled in a book exclusively for south Florida gardeners. Whether you're an old hand or a south Florida newcomer -- and even if you've never before considered getting your hands dirty, Harold's warm, wise voice is always encouraging and enthusiastic, and Coralee's lively, engaging prose will have you reading as much for pleasure as for solid information. ------------- Or you can cut it back if you want to keep it small as a houseplant: GROW AN AVOCADO TREE!! Using the large stone found inside the fruit you can grow a beutiful large leaved speciman plant up to 3ft tall!This of course takes a couple of years but this plant is still easy enough for an older child to grow.There is a sense of pride and acheivement in growing such a plant! Just push the blunt end of the stone into a 5-6 inch pot filled with potting compost,leave the pointed end exposed. Keep warm until leaves appear and treat as a normal house plant year round,keeping cooler in winter.Repot annually and pinch out the ends to promote bushy growth. _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From shopkins@bsbdesign.com Thu Mar 7 20:25:14 2002 From: shopkins@bsbdesign.com (shopkins@bsbdesign.com) Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 13:25:14 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203072025.g27KPE517754@Ag.arizona.edu> My mother is coming for a visit and she would love to see the desert in bloom. When is the best time do see this? Where would we see fields of flowers in bloom? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Mar 7 22:49:30 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 17:49:30 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf, watering Message-ID: <167.9f6b841.29b9487a@aol.com> --part1_167.9f6b841.29b9487a_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If you live in the Phoenix area and take a newspaper, on the weather page of both the Republic and the Tribune is listed the amount of water in inches that should be applied to your turf if watered three days ago. Further information is available from most of the cities in the valley in the form of a free booklet titled Landscape Watering By The Numbers, call your cities Water Conservation Office. On line check out these sites: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html http://www.amwua.org/xscp-wateringschedules.htm http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_167.9f6b841.29b9487a_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If you live in the Phoenix area and take a newspaper, on the weather page of both the Republic and the Tribune is listed the amount of water in inches that should be applied to your turf if watered three days ago.
Further information is available from most of the cities in the valley in the form of a free booklet titled Landscape Watering By The Numbers, call your cities Water Conservation Office. On line check out these sites:  http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html
http://www.amwua.org/xscp-wateringschedules.htm
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener

--part1_167.9f6b841.29b9487a_boundary-- From Wilkb7@aol.com Fri Mar 8 00:04:10 2002 From: Wilkb7@aol.com (Wilkb7@aol.com) Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 17:04:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203080004.g2804A507630@Ag.arizona.edu> We have several oleanders that we would like to remove from our property. What is the easiest way to get them out of the ground? From sjbass@qwest.net Fri Mar 8 05:46:20 2002 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 22:46:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Wildflowers References: <200203072025.g27KPE517754@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C88502C.4D5B7EF@qwest.net> With the extremely dry winter we have had, it will most likely be a quite dismal year for wildflowers. Not at all like last spring. The following link: http://desertusa.com/wildflo/wildupdates.html will take you to DesertUSA.com and the Wildflower Watch page. They provide updated information on wildflowers. Click on Arizona to see where you can catch blooms. Your best bet may be Boyce Thompson Arboretum, the Desert Botanical Garden, and the Arizona-Sonoran Desert Museum. All of these locations provide irrigation and are great places to see flowers. Sue Bass Master Gardener shopkins@bsbdesign.com wrote: > My mother is coming for a visit and she would love to see the desert in bloom. When is the best time do see this? Where would we see fields of flowers in bloom? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From hps@qwest.net Fri Mar 8 06:46:18 2002 From: hps@qwest.net (patrick small) Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 23:46:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] unscribe Arid_gardener mailing list Message-ID: <018901c1c66c$f3d9f640$596cb5d1@s0023693025> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0186_01C1C632.46D34580 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable ------=_NextPart_000_0186_01C1C632.46D34580 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
 
------=_NextPart_000_0186_01C1C632.46D34580-- From LGruntzel@toddassoc.com Fri Mar 8 17:05:20 2002 From: LGruntzel@toddassoc.com (LGruntzel@toddassoc.com) Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 10:05:20 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203081705.g28H5J508687@Ag.arizona.edu> I bought a Orange Tree a couple of weeks ago in a 5-gallon container. It now has blossoms all over it and I am wondering if I should wait to plant it or do it now. Will all the blossoms fall off if I plant it now? Will it survive if I leave it in the container? From gregorknauer@hotmail.com Fri Mar 8 18:36:35 2002 From: gregorknauer@hotmail.com (gregorknauer@hotmail.com) Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 11:36:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203081836.g28IaZ527591@Ag.arizona.edu> Italian Cypresses are turning brown all over. We haven't watered for the last few months since it's wintertime, but from spring through fall we water approx. once a week. Some are dry just at the very tips. We're at 3700 feet in central Az. Soil is clayey. If I resume irrigating now, will they turn green again? Should I add horse manure? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Mar 8 21:03:21 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 16:03:21 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Orange tree, planting Message-ID: --part1_ab.183d782b.29ba8119_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Your orange tree in the 5 gallon pot will probably lose all its blossoms, citrus do not normally bear fruit until they have been in the ground for 4 to 5 years. I would suggest planting the tree right away since now is the ideal time to plant citrus. Do not fertilize until the tree is one year old. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_ab.183d782b.29ba8119_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Your orange tree in the 5 gallon pot will probably lose all its blossoms, citrus do not normally bear fruit until they have been in the ground for 4 to 5 years. I would suggest planting the tree right away since now is the ideal time to plant citrus. Do not fertilize until the tree is one year old.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_ab.183d782b.29ba8119_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Mar 8 21:14:38 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 16:14:38 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cypress tree turning brown Message-ID: --part1_a4.2247f47e.29ba83be_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If you haven't watered in several months I suspect that your cypress is turning brown because of lack of water. Don't know how much rainfall you've had where you live, but here in Maricopa County we've had almost no rain for several months. Even in the winter, without rain the trees should be watered at least once per month. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_a4.2247f47e.29ba83be_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If you haven't watered in several months I suspect that your cypress is turning brown because of lack of water. Don't know how much rainfall you've had where you live, but here in Maricopa County we've had almost no rain for several months. Even in the winter, without rain the trees should be watered  at least once per month.

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_a4.2247f47e.29ba83be_boundary-- From kwolpert@yahoo.com Sat Mar 9 21:01:02 2002 From: kwolpert@yahoo.com (kwolpert@yahoo.com) Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 14:01:02 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203092101.g29L12509631@Ag.arizona.edu> Hi all, I am interested in growing fig trees. I have a Peter's Honey (in a container), and am interested in a dark skinned variety. I was wondering if the Negronne (Violette de Bordeaux) would be a good choice. If not, what types work well here in AZ? It too would be grown in a container, as I don't have room to plant them in my yard. Also, any tips you all have for growning figs in AZ would be greatly appreciated. Thank you so much for your time. -Kirsten From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Mar 9 22:17:17 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 22:17:17 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] figs in the low desert Message-ID: HERE IS AN ANSWER TO A SIMILAR QUESTION: In response to the question on growing figs in the low desert, the following is information on suitable varieties from the University of Arizona, Maricopa County Cooperative Extension: Black Mission: Popular and flavorful for eating fresh or dried. Medium to large pear shaped fruit has skin which is black-purple and strawberry colored flesh. Tree is large and long lived. Well adapted to elevations below 2,000 feet. Brown Turkey: Sweet tasting and best eaten fresh. Bell shaped medium to large fruit has browish-purple skin with pink flesh. Tree is large and best adapted to 2,000 - 3,000 feet. Not as prolific as Mission. Conadria (White): Mild and sweet with whitish-pink flesh. Large fruit with cream to light green colored skin. Good eaten fresh or dried. Tolerates heat well. White Kadota: Good fresh or dried, suitable for canning. Fruit is medium sized with yellow skin. Flesh is amber with few seeds. Hot weather aids in ripening. Additional information on growing figs can be obtained by requesting publication MC23 from the Extension office. Just send a stamp with your request and be sure to include your address. University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension Master Gardener Desk 4341 E. Broadway Phoenix, AZ 85040 Cathy Rymer (602) 470-8086 Ext: 308 University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ >From: kwolpert@yahoo.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 14:01:02 -0700 (MST) > >Hi all, > > I am interested in growing fig trees. I have a Peter's Honey (in a >container), and am interested in a dark skinned variety. I was wondering if >the Negronne (Violette de Bordeaux) would be a good choice. If not, what >types work well here in AZ? It too would be grown in a container, as I >don't have room to plant them in my yard. Also, any tips you all have for >growning figs in AZ would be greatly appreciated. > > Thank you so much for your time. > > -Kirsten > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From roanimare@aol.com Sat Mar 9 22:23:19 2002 From: roanimare@aol.com (roanimare@aol.com) Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 15:23:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203092223.g29MNJ517109@Ag.arizona.edu> Hello: I have several ocotillos in my landscape. From time to time they need trimming. I really hate to just throw the trimmings away. Can I mail them to friends in other states? Thanks. From roanimare@aol.com Sat Mar 9 22:23:44 2002 From: roanimare@aol.com (roanimare@aol.com) Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 15:23:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203092223.g29MNi517121@Ag.arizona.edu> Hello: I have several ocotillos in my landscape. From time to time they need trimming. I really hate to just throw the trimmings away. Can I mail them to friends in other states? Thanks -- Michele From jamminmartin2@hotmail.com Sun Mar 10 00:26:49 2002 From: jamminmartin2@hotmail.com (jamminmartin2@hotmail.com) Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 17:26:49 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203100026.g2A0Qn526461@Ag.arizona.edu> How should I treat Bougainvillea plants that appear to have been damaged by frost? They are established plants and are beginning to show some new growth, but they also have a lot of "dead looking twigs." Is it safe to cut them back? Is it better to just let them grow and see what happens? Should I fertilize? From ClaireASP@aol.com Sun Mar 10 01:33:22 2002 From: ClaireASP@aol.com (ClaireASP@aol.com) Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 18:33:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203100133.g2A1XM500812@Ag.arizona.edu> Hi Guys. First of all I want to say how much I appreciate your service and help; I have used it many times! This is my latest question. What would you suggest as a fairly easy but sufficient product to use, to feed Pygmy Date Palms and Bottle Palms? Thanks for any ideas. Claire. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Mar 10 01:54:35 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 01:54:35 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] bougainvillea Message-ID: Let the new growth leaf out to determine how much of the plant has suffered frost damage. Often, leaves are killed in cold weather but the stem is still alive and will send out new leaves as the weather warms. Dead stems can be cut out later. Amazingly, bougainvilleas bloom best with little fertilizer and water. You could give them a half-strength application of fertlizer but it probably isn't necessary. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: jamminmartin2@hotmail.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 17:26:49 -0700 (MST) > >How should I treat Bougainvillea plants that appear to have been damaged by >frost? They are established plants and are beginning to show some new >growth, but they also have a lot of "dead looking twigs." Is it safe to cut >them back? Is it better to just let them grow and see what happens? Should >I fertilize? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Mar 10 02:02:20 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 02:02:20 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palm fertilizer Message-ID: Hi, Claire Glad you find this list useful; the Master Gardeners in Maricopa County do a great job. Look for a fertlizer labeled as 'Palm Food', made especially for palms. It has a formulation like 9-5-9 with "minors" (minors are the micronutrients that palm need to be healthy). >From: ClaireASP@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 18:33:22 -0700 (MST) > >Hi Guys. First of all I want to say how much I appreciate your service and >help; I have used it many times! This is my latest question. What would you >suggest as a fairly easy but sufficient product to use, to feed Pygmy Date >Palms and Bottle Palms? Thanks for any ideas. Claire. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From rebeccarasmussen@att.net Sun Mar 10 04:18:09 2002 From: rebeccarasmussen@att.net (rebeccarasmussen@att.net) Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 04:18:09 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Soil for Raised Garden Beds Message-ID: <20020310041809.JDLM11747.mtiwmhc23.worldnet.att.net@webmail.worldnet.att.net> Hi, I've just finished building some frames for a raised vegetable garden. What should I fill them with? I have the book "Extreme Gardening" which talks about gardening in pure compost. I called a couple landscaping supply companies. The first wasn't sure what I meant by compost and wondered if I wanted manure. The second said sure they sold compost, but they call it "forest mulch". Is this what I am looking for or should I buy a soil mix? They also sell a mix of soil, sand, and mulch. I would like to buy from a company that will deliver it to my house rather than buying bags at a nursery center since I will need quite a lot of whatever I end up getting. Thanks Rebecca -- Phoenix, AZ From Jonathan Kandell" Message-ID: <000a01c1c7f7$5c058640$6b39bbd0@oemcomputer> Try mixing your native soil with 30-40% manure, compost, or forest mulch. Add in soil amendments, like fertilizer and sulfur. Relenish with 2-3" a year manure/compost. That's what I did in setting up my beds and it's worked fine. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, March 09, 2002 9:18 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Soil for Raised Garden Beds | Hi, | | I've just finished building some frames for a raised | vegetable garden. What should I fill them with? I have | the book "Extreme Gardening" which talks about | gardening in pure compost. I called a couple | landscaping supply companies. The first wasn't sure | what I meant by compost and wondered if I wanted | manure. The second said sure they sold compost, but | they call it "forest mulch". Is this what I am looking | for or should I buy a soil mix? They also sell a mix of | soil, sand, and mulch. I would like to buy from a | company that will deliver it to my house rather than | buying bags at a nursery center since I will need quite | a lot of whatever I end up getting. | | Thanks Rebecca | | -- | Phoenix, AZ | _______________________________________________ | Arid_gardener mailing list | Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu | http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener | From pamburd@wildapache.net Sun Mar 10 16:45:39 2002 From: pamburd@wildapache.net (pamburd@wildapache.net) Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 09:45:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203101645.g2AGjd512412@Ag.arizona.edu> We planted Arizona blue cypress and blue junipers in our yard in the late summer, last year. Do we need to apply any type of fertilizer (organic or synthetic in loose or spike form)and if so what kind and how much. We live in a community near the Oak Creek in the Oak Creek Valley, near Cottonwood, AZ. This areas was once planted in apple orchards before the community was built here. Respectfully, Pam Burd From gardenguru" Message-ID: <009f01c1c85d$0757e8c0$0a382ace@ibm22761658747> Last year I built 200 sq ft of raised garden beds and dug it out 2 ft deep. I located a company in Phx that has a garden mixture named 1/3, 1/3, 1/3 - soil, sand and mulch. they delivered 6 yards. It was more for delivery than it costs but it would have taken me 20 trips in my pickup truck so it was worth it. The company is Western Organics. You should find them in the phone book. It has been wonderful to dig in. I have added amendments such as manure and soil sulfer and fertilizer over time but have very pleased with my results. Hope this helps GG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, March 09, 2002 9:18 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Soil for Raised Garden Beds > Hi, > > I've just finished building some frames for a raised > vegetable garden. What should I fill them with? I have > the book "Extreme Gardening" which talks about > gardening in pure compost. I called a couple > landscaping supply companies. The first wasn't sure > what I meant by compost and wondered if I wanted > manure. The second said sure they sold compost, but > they call it "forest mulch". Is this what I am looking > for or should I buy a soil mix? They also sell a mix of > soil, sand, and mulch. I would like to buy from a > company that will deliver it to my house rather than > buying bags at a nursery center since I will need quite > a lot of whatever I end up getting. > > Thanks Rebecca > > -- > Phoenix, AZ > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From umiller@azdps.com Sun Mar 10 18:03:53 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 11:03:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ripe Citrus Taking Nutrients from New Growth? Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C1C823.445C6140 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Storing my grapefruits on the tree works great. But I wonder – now that the tree is beginning to grow buds for new fruit next year, should I take the remaining grapefruits off the tree? Will the old ones take away nutrition from the new growth? Or do the old ones no longer take in nutrients since they’re mature? It’s a wonderful problem – having such a bountiful little tree. Ursula Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C1C823.445C6140 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Storing my grapefruits on = the tree works great.=A0 But I wonder = =96 now that the tree is beginning to grow buds for new fruit next year, should I = take the remaining grapefruits off the tree?=A0 Will the old ones take away nutrition from the new growth?=A0 Or do the old ones no longer take = in nutrients since they=92re mature?

 

It=92s a wonderful problem = =96 having such a bountiful little tree.

 

Ursula Miller

 <= /p>

------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C1C823.445C6140-- From jlavilla@netvalue.net Mon Mar 11 01:46:32 2002 From: jlavilla@netvalue.net (jlavilla@netvalue.net) Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 18:46:32 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203110146.g2B1kW525439@Ag.arizona.edu> I want to start composting, but I live on an irrigated lot. Am I forced to use a composting bin, so as not to let the pile get soaked every 2 weeks? From cstephens@infinet-is.com Mon Mar 11 03:29:01 2002 From: cstephens@infinet-is.com (Charles Stephens) Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 20:29:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Compost on Irrigated Lot References: <200203110146.g2B1kW525439@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <001701c1c8ac$e425d7e0$9c1259d8@default> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01C1C872.36A207E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I live on a large irrigated lot and have two composting systems going. = One is an open pit that gets filled with water every time we irrigate. = This is rather slow to finish composting; we dig out the compost only = about twice a year. Some nutrients are probably leached into the soil as = the water percolates, but it still provides some valuable organic matter = for the garden. The other consists of bins constructed from four wooden = pallets. This area is surrounded by a berm and never gets flooded. It is = a lot faster IF I keep it damp AND aerate it by turning frequently. I = don't see any real problems with having the bottom few inches of your = compost getting flooded. See Publication Q230 Make Your Own compost for more info on composting. Available from: Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Charlie Stephens Master Gardener Phoenix ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01C1C872.36A207E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I live on a large irrigated lot and = have two=20 composting systems going. One is an open pit that gets filled with water = every=20 time we irrigate. This is rather slow to finish composting; we dig out = the=20 compost only about twice a year. Some nutrients are probably leached = into the=20 soil as the water percolates, but it still provides some valuable = organic matter=20 for the garden. The other consists of bins constructed from four wooden = pallets.=20 This area is surrounded by a berm and never gets flooded. It is a lot = faster IF=20 I keep it damp AND aerate it by turning frequently. I don't see any real = problems with having the bottom few inches of your compost getting=20 flooded.
 
See Publication Q230 Make Your Own = compost for more=20 info on composting.
Available from:    = Maricopa County=20 Cooperative Extension
       =20             =     4341=20 E. Broadway Road
        =    =20             Phoenix, AZ=20 85040
Charlie Stephens
Master Gardener
Phoenix
 
 
------=_NextPart_000_0014_01C1C872.36A207E0-- From gardenguru" Message-ID: <00db01c1c8bd$7b348c20$0a382ace@ibm22761658747> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00D6_01C1C882.CD19AC40 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have a 20 yr old pink grapefruit that bears about 300 grapefruit per = year. The first year I was told to get all the fruit off of the tree = since it would affect the next year production. I pull them all off = before it blossomed. So I had 250 grapefruit that I could not get rid of = and had too throw them away. The second year I left them on and had = grapefruit on the tree until July. The were still wonderful. I did pull = the one on the outside of the tree before May 1st so they would not get = sun burned but the ones under the canopy were shaded and fine.=20 Leaving fruit on the tree during the blossom period does reduce = production for the next year since mature grapefruit does take nutriion = from developing fruit. So I probably had 250 grapefruit the second year = --- still more than we could eat and we still were giving them away into = July. Citrus should be fertilized 3 times a year - March, June and Oct = and they need proper irrigation. You are right, this is good problem to = have. Here are the docs avail from the County Ext service to assist you with = your citrus. MC91 Citrus Trees - Fertilizer=20 AZ1151 Citrus Trees - Irrigating =20 Hope this helps GG ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Ursula Miller=20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2002 11:03 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ripe Citrus Taking Nutrients from New Growth? Storing my grapefruits on the tree works great. But I wonder =96 now = that the tree is beginning to grow buds for new fruit next year, should = I take the remaining grapefruits off the tree? Will the old ones take = away nutrition from the new growth? Or do the old ones no longer take = in nutrients since they=92re mature? =20 It=92s a wonderful problem =96 having such a bountiful little tree. =20 Ursula Miller =20 ------=_NextPart_000_00D6_01C1C882.CD19AC40 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I have a 20 yr old pink grapefruit that bears = about 300=20 grapefruit per year. The first year I was told to get all the fruit off = of the=20 tree since it would affect the next year production. I pull them all off = before=20 it blossomed. So I had 250 grapefruit that I could not get rid of and = had too=20 throw them away. The second year I left them on and had grapefruit on = the tree=20 until July. The were still wonderful. I did pull the one on the outside = of the=20 tree before May 1st so they would not get sun burned but the ones under = the=20 canopy were shaded and fine.
Leaving fruit on the tree during the blossom = period does=20 reduce production for the next year since mature grapefruit does take = nutriion=20 from developing fruit. So I probably had 250 grapefruit the second year = ---=20 still more than we could eat and we still were giving them away into = July.=20 Citrus should be fertilized 3 times a year - March, June and Oct and = they need=20 proper irrigation. You are right, this is good problem to=20 have.
 
Here are the docs avail from = the County Ext=20 service to assist you with your = citrus.   =20
MC91 Citrus Trees - Fertilizer
AZ1151
Citrus Trees -=20 Irrigating     =
Hope this helps
GG
----- Original Message ----- =
From:=20 Ursula = Miller=20
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2002 = 11:03=20 AM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ripe = Citrus=20 Taking Nutrients from New Growth?

Storing my grapefruits on the = tree works=20 great.  But I wonder =96 = now that=20 the tree is beginning to grow buds for new fruit next year, should I = take the=20 remaining grapefruits off the tree? =20 Will the old ones take away nutrition from the new growth?  Or do the old ones no longer = take in=20 nutrients since they=92re mature?

 

It=92s a wonderful problem = =96 having such a=20 bountiful little tree.

 

Ursula=20 Miller

 

------=_NextPart_000_00D6_01C1C882.CD19AC40-- From AZamigo@aol.com Mon Mar 11 07:08:41 2002 From: AZamigo@aol.com (AZamigo@aol.com) Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 00:08:41 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203110708.g2B78f527591@Ag.arizona.edu> I am going to plant a 5 or 7 gallon Lisbon lemon in my backyard in Tucson this week, but have not gotten the tree yet. My major question is which rootstock is best for my climate. I would like a tree that gets large fairly fast since shade would be a good thing, so is volkameriana the best choice? One nursery I called up didn't even know what the rootstock was and only knew that they came from Yuma. It seems like nobody down here carries sour orange rootstock and claim that whatever they are using is best. Also, you say not to dig the hole any deeper,but caliche may impede drainage so do you suggest blasting thorught the caliche and then putting a layer of gravel in the hole to secure drainage and prevent settling? What's the story? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Mar 11 14:55:02 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 14:55:02 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus rootstock Message-ID: Others are more qualified than I am, but I can help with some of your questions. Sour orange rootstock has been the rootstock of choice for many years in our area. However, it is host to the Tristeza virus and has pretty much been discontinued for that reason. Tristeza virus is the reason Meyer's lemon is illegal in Arizona -- this is a terrible disease that could devastate commercial citrus production in the state if it were to get started. (Meyer's lemon is a host). For disease you need a host, a pathogen, and the right conditions. At the moment, Arizona is free of the insect (an aphid) that could transport the disease,but that could change as more plants come here from Florida. Reputable nurseries will have citrus tagged to list the variety and the rootstock. Generally, these nurseries will carry varieties and rootstocks that are suited for our area. Lemons are vigorous growers. Regarding planting: Dig the hole no deeper than the rootball and 3 to 5 times as wide. If water does not drain from the hole, you will need to punch a hole (a 'chimney') through the caliche layer at a distance from the rootball. Call 626-5161 (Master Gardeners in Tucson) and we will mail information with diagrams about planting. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: AZamigo@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 00:08:41 -0700 (MST) > >I am going to plant a 5 or 7 gallon Lisbon lemon in my backyard in Tucson >this week, but have not gotten the tree yet. My major question is which >rootstock is best for my climate. I would like a tree that gets large >fairly fast since shade would be a good thing, so is volkameriana the best >choice? One nursery I called up didn't even know what the rootstock was >and only knew that they came from Yuma. It seems like nobody down here >carries sour orange rootstock and claim that whatever they are using is >best. Also, you say not to dig the hole any deeper,but caliche may impede >drainage so do you suggest blasting thorught the caliche and then putting a >layer of gravel in the hole to secure drainage and prevent settling? >What's the story? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From gardenguru" Message-ID: <017301c1c911$ca05f6a0$0a382ace@ibm22761658747> The lisbon lemon is better suited for our heat than the eureka lemon. The Volkameriana is an excellent root stock for the lisbon lemon tree. It is well adapted to our soil condition, heat units and is disease resistant. The county recommends planted citrus in a hole at least 24 in X 24 in. It may be necessary to remove caliche in order to get a hole this size. You should not place gravel in the bottom, use a good mulch mixed with the native soil. The lisbon in a vigorous tree that bears well. It will need puning to keep in within bounds. Fruit hold well on the tree but can get puffy in held on too long. The County has several docs avail to help you with you citrus, they are avail at their Phx office for $1 ea. MC91 Citrus Trees - Fertilizer AZ1151 Citrus Trees - Irrigating * MC65 Citrus Trees - Quality MC08 Citrus Trees - Recovery of Neglected 8670 Citrus Trees in Arizona - Fertilizing AZ1001 Citrus Varieties - Low Desert * MC17 Citrus - Irrigation needs Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Docs with * are avail online at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Now you have the Rest of the Story GG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, March 11, 2002 12:08 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I am going to plant a 5 or 7 gallon Lisbon lemon in my backyard in Tucson this week, but have not gotten the tree yet. My major question is which rootstock is best for my climate. I would like a tree that gets large fairly fast since shade would be a good thing, so is volkameriana the best choice? One nursery I called up didn't even know what the rootstock was and only knew that they came from Yuma. It seems like nobody down here carries sour orange rootstock and claim that whatever they are using is best. Also, you say not to dig the hole any deeper,but caliche may impede drainage so do you suggest blasting thorught the caliche and then putting a layer of gravel in the hole to secure drainage and prevent settling? What's the story? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From RkBetu@aol.com Mon Mar 11 15:50:41 2002 From: RkBetu@aol.com (RkBetu@aol.com) Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 10:50:41 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sick Carob Message-ID: <124.d18184f.29be2c51@aol.com> I have an 8 year old carob tree that is distressed. Many of the leaves have dark red spots and yellowing. Bark along the base of the trunk is peeling off. When I push on the tree, it moves slightly. What am I looking at and is there any way to save it? I live west of Phoenix in the Wittmann area. Thanks, Rocki From RkBetu@aol.com Mon Mar 11 15:53:16 2002 From: RkBetu@aol.com (RkBetu@aol.com) Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 10:53:16 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sick Carob Message-ID: <6e.192117cb.29be2cec@aol.com> I have an 8 year old carob tree that is distressed. Many of the leaves have dark red spots and yellowing. Bark along the base of the trunk is peeling off. When I push on the tree, it moves slightly. What am I looking at and is there any way to save it? I live west of Phoenix in the Wittmann area. Thanks, Rocki From RkBetu@aol.com Mon Mar 11 15:59:32 2002 From: RkBetu@aol.com (RkBetu@aol.com) Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 10:59:32 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sick Carob Message-ID: I have an 8 year old carob tree that is distressed. The leaves have dark red spots and yellowing. Near the base of the trunk, the bark is splitting and peeling . When I push on the tree, it moves slightly. What could this be and is there any way to save it? Thank you. Rocki From Jonathan Kandell" When does one plant tepary beans? How long do they take to get to the threshing stage? I live in Tucson AZ. thanks as usual, jk From jbegeman@Ag.arizona.edu Mon Mar 11 17:11:32 2002 From: jbegeman@Ag.arizona.edu (John Begeman) Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 10:11:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Espaliers Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20020311100614.00a8a090@ag.arizona.edu> I am looking for examples of espaliers that I can shoot to accompany one of my upcoming gardening columns in the Arizona Daily Star. If you live in the Tucson area and have ornamental or fruiting trees, or shrubs trained in an espalier fashion against a wall or fence and would be willing to let me take some pictures please contact me via e-mail. John Begeman. John P. Begeman, M.S. Urban Horticulture Agent Pima County Cooperative Extension Phone: (520) 626-5161 Fax: (520) 626-5849 jbegeman@ag.arizona.edu From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Mar 11 17:16:15 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 17:16:15 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] when plant tepary? Message-ID: Hi, Jonathan, Here is the information from Native Seed/SEARCH in Tucson (plant in July): First grown in the Southwest during the time of the Hohokam Indians, teparies mature quickly and are tolerant of the low desert heat, drought and alkaline soils. Soak the dried beans before cooking. Approx. 50 seeds/packet. Culture: Plant seeds 1/2 inch deep and 4 inches apart with the summer rains. If rains are sparse, irrigate when the plants look stressed. Overwatered plants will produce more leaves and runners and fewer pods. http://www.nativeseeds.org/catalog/seedlist.html Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Jonathan Kandell" >Reply-To: "Jonathan Kandell" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] when plant tepary? >Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 09:24:18 -0700 > >When does one plant tepary beans? How long do they take to get to the >threshing stage? I live in Tucson AZ. thanks as usual, > >jk > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Mar 11 17:23:18 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 17:23:18 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sick Carob Message-ID: >From: RkBetu@aol.com >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sick Carob >Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 10:59:32 EST > > I have an 8 year old carob tree that is distressed. The leaves have dark >red spots and yellowing. Near the base of the trunk, the bark is splitting >and peeling . When I push on the tree, it moves slightly. What could this >be >and is there any way to save it? >Thank you. >Rocki >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Hello, Rocki Do you notice any growths on the trunk that look like woody mushrooms? This could possibly be ganoderma, a fungus that infects many trees in the southwest. If you locate a growth, remove it and take it to your local extension office for identification. If you dig around the trunk do you find horizontal roots within an inch or so of the surface? If not, soil may be in contact with bark and this can cause a number of problems. Excavate extra dirt from around the trunk to keep that area clear of soil and water. Can you give us some information about care -- when, how, and how much you water, use of fertilizers, etc. That will give us an idea of what is happening. Linda Drew Master Gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From Jonathan Kandell" Message-ID: <002b01c1c928$32339280$7239bbd0@oemcomputer> Thanks for that info. I was wondering if they could also be planted in spring and how long they take to maturity. ----- Original Message ----- From: Linda Drew To: ; Sent: Monday, March 11, 2002 10:16 AM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] when plant tepary? | Hi, Jonathan, | | Here is the information from Native Seed/SEARCH | in Tucson (plant in July): | | First grown in the Southwest during the time of the Hohokam Indians, | teparies mature quickly and are tolerant of the low desert heat, drought and | alkaline soils. Soak the dried beans before cooking. Approx. 50 | seeds/packet. | | Culture: | Plant seeds 1/2 inch deep and 4 inches apart with the summer rains. If rains | are sparse, irrigate when the plants look stressed. Overwatered plants will | produce more leaves and runners and fewer pods. | | http://www.nativeseeds.org/catalog/seedlist.html | | Linda Drew | Master Gardener | | | >From: "Jonathan Kandell" | >Reply-To: "Jonathan Kandell" | >To: | >Subject: [Arid_gardener] when plant tepary? | >Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 09:24:18 -0700 | > | >When does one plant tepary beans? How long do they take to get to the | >threshing stage? I live in Tucson AZ. thanks as usual, | > | >jk | > | >_______________________________________________ | >Arid_gardener mailing list | >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu | >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener | | | | | _________________________________________________________________ | Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com | | _______________________________________________ | Arid_gardener mailing list | Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu | http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener | From boofie@bigfoot.com Mon Mar 11 18:32:43 2002 From: boofie@bigfoot.com (Jessica Boof Sizemore) Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 10:32:43 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Eucalyptus wilting In-Reply-To: <200203101645.g2AGjd512412@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20020311183244.74801.qmail@web10006.mail.yahoo.com> Having just purchased our first house, it is my first time having to take care of a lawn and plants without the help of a landlord. My question is: I have two eucalyptus trees in my back yard that are between 8-10 feet tall. Their leaves have started wilting. They were doing pretty good through the winter. I didn't water from Dec 1st, through Feb 15th. I now realize that may have been bad. I thought the rain would do it's job. Maybe it did. Any hoo, the two trees and the two palms I have are not looking so good. I started watering with a sprinkler, and have been doing so once a week, at late evening to night. I will turn on the sprinkler for 15-20 min. then move on to another section. It is the fan type of sprinkler that fans in one long line. (trying to give as much info as possible) Am I watering to much, not enough, do they need more than just water? Should I be watering more than once a week? I have a Bermuda grass lawn, and some asparagus ferns along the edges. I also have the Bouganvilia that got the frost bite, so I was think ing it might be part of that. The palm trees, I am not sure what kind, fronds are turning a bit brown as well. Thanks in advance, Boof ===== Tucson, Az __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Try FREE Yahoo! Mail - the world's greatest free email! http://mail.yahoo.com/ From cstephens@infinet-is.com Mon Mar 11 20:09:29 2002 From: cstephens@infinet-is.com (Charles Stephens) Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 13:09:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] when plant tepary? References: <002b01c1c928$32339280$7239bbd0@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <001101c1c938$ba19f760$b486dfd1@default> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000E_01C1C8FD.FA408CE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Jonathan, I suggest that you look at the warning about Bean Common Mosaic Virus on = p. 14 of the Native Seeds Search Catalog if you are growing other beans = nearby. Teparys can be carriers of this virus disease which can infect = all new world beans. Charlie Stephens Master Gardener Phoenix ------=_NextPart_000_000E_01C1C8FD.FA408CE0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Jonathan,
 
I suggest that you look at the warning = about Bean=20 Common Mosaic Virus on p. 14 of the Native Seeds Search Catalog if you = are=20 growing other beans nearby. Teparys can be carriers of this virus = disease which=20 can infect all new world beans.
 
Charlie Stephens
Master=20 Gardener
Phoenix
------=_NextPart_000_000E_01C1C8FD.FA408CE0-- From vweber8587@cox.net Mon Mar 11 22:51:56 2002 From: vweber8587@cox.net (vweber8587@cox.net) Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 15:51:56 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203112251.g2BMpu528314@Ag.arizona.edu> Is it too late in the season to plant roses in Phoenix? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Mar 11 23:11:41 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 23:11:41 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Eucalyptus wilting Message-ID: Hello, Boof We had such a dry winter, I suspect the problem with your trees is water. Give them a good deep soaking (down to 2 or 3 feet) to help them recover. The sprinkler will help your bermuda grass get growing again as the weather warms. Once you've well-wtered your trees, you may want to apply a palm fertilizer for the palms. Just follow label directions. You can also call the Tucson Extension Office at 626-5161 for more information. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Jessica Boof Sizemore >Reply-To: boofie@bigfoot.com >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Eucalyptus wilting >Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 10:32:43 -0800 (PST) > >Having just purchased our first house, it is my first time having to >take care of a lawn and plants without the help of a landlord. My >question is: I have two eucalyptus trees in my back yard that are >between 8-10 feet tall. Their leaves have started wilting. They were >doing pretty good through the winter. I didn't water from Dec 1st, >through Feb 15th. I now realize that may have been bad. I thought the >rain would do it's job. Maybe it did. Any hoo, the two trees and the >two palms I have are not looking so good. I started watering with a >sprinkler, and have been doing so once a week, at late evening to >night. I will turn on the sprinkler for 15-20 min. then move on to >another section. It is the fan type of sprinkler that fans in one long >line. (trying to give as much info as possible) Am I watering to >much, not enough, do they need more than just water? Should I be >watering more than once a week? I have a Bermuda grass lawn, and some >asparagus ferns along the edges. I also have the Bouganvilia that got >the frost bite, so I was think ing it might be part of that. The palm >trees, I am not sure what kind, fronds are turning a bit brown as well. > >Thanks in advance, >Boof > >===== >Tucson, Az > >__________________________________________________ >Do You Yahoo!? >Try FREE Yahoo! Mail - the world's greatest free email! >http://mail.yahoo.com/ >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From gardenguru" Message-ID: <009b01c1c958$7fba37e0$0100007f@ibm22761658747> Yes you can plant roses this month. Most nurseries have them avail in containers. This document from the county will assist you with planting and care. It is avail for $1 8672 Roses for AZ Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Hopes this helps GG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, March 11, 2002 3:51 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Is it too late in the season to plant roses in Phoenix? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From bettellig@aol.com Mon Mar 11 23:52:35 2002 From: bettellig@aol.com (bettellig@aol.com) Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 16:52:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203112352.g2BNqZ510230@Ag.arizona.edu> Can you give me some recommendations for a good tree for my front yard? I am looking for something with the following characteristics: good desert tree, medium size, will grow rather rapidly, a good shade tree (a nice canopy), preferably doesn't drop many leaves, seeds, pollen etc. Thank you for any help you can give me! From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Mar 12 02:41:36 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 02:41:36 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] tree for front yard Message-ID: HERE IS AN EARLIER RESPONSE ABOUT PATIO TREES THAT MAY GIVE YOU SOME IDEAS - DO CHECK THE REFERENCES LISTED AT THE END. THERE ARE MANY BEAUTIFUL TREES YOU"LL WANT TO CONSIDER. Michael Todd (mike.todd@asu.edu) Fri, 09 Jul 1999 08:16:56 -0700 Hi there: One plant that springs to mind is the Texas Mountain Laurel (Sophora secundiflora). It's small as trees go, and it's thornless. In the spring, it has great bunches of purple Wisteria-like blossoms that some (including myself) say smell like grape soda. As an added bonus, the tree is keeps its glossy deep green leaves all year. The main disadvantages of this tree are its slow growth rate and the fact that the seeds are poisonous. Although I think you would have to be pretty determined to poison yourself for this to be much of an issue as the seeds are encased in hard woody pods, and the seed coats themselves are pretty tough and. Also, you probably won't see blooms until the plant is somewhat mature. This tree is typically about 15 ft tall and about 10 feet wide. We have one that we planted last spring when it was a little over knee high, and right now it's a little over waist high (but we're not tall people). No blossoms yet, but I know it's going to be worth the wait. I know of two pretty nice specimens you can visit. One is at ASU in Tempe on the northeast side of the Law School complex (SW corner of McAllister and Orange), and the other is at ASU West in Glendale (47th Ave & Thunderbird) on the east side of the Faculty Administration Building near the east entrance. If you're really brave you can hop out of your car on I-10 between 7th St. and 16th. St. and see lots of them in the center median--however, the state troopers might have a thing or two to say about this. ;^) Another tree to consider is the White Bark Acacia or Palo Blanco (Acacia willardiana). It's look is quite different from the Sophora. It has a weeping form with slender leaves (each has a long midrib with two leaflets at the end). Two-inch long cream-colored flower spikes appear in the spring. This tree is thornless and can be 10 ft wide and 20 ft tall. Quite a graceful looking tree. I think I know where one is on the ASU campus in Tempe, but I would have to look to make sure of the location--I believe it's on Orange across the street from the Computing Commons. Another possibility is a Lysiloma or Desert Fern Tree (Lysiloma thornberi or Lysiloma microphylla var. thonberi). According to my sources, this tree/shrub can be as big as 18 ft wide and 20 ft tall, but I've never seen one this big around here (maybe others on the list can speak to this). This tree has luxuriant ferny foliage and creamy white puffball flowers in the late spring/early summer. Just some suggestions I have. Others may have different ideas. Good luck with whatever you choose. -mike t. ps. I would recommend buying or looking at Native Plants for Southwestern Landscapes by Judy Mielke (1993). Univ of Texas Press. ISBN 0-292-75147-8. This book has about 300 different plants described and at least 1 color photo of each one-- a fantastic resource for those looking for desert-adapted plants. >From: bettellig@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 16:52:35 -0700 (MST) > >Can you give me some recommendations for a good tree for my front yard? I >am looking for something with the following characteristics: good desert >tree, medium size, will grow rather rapidly, a good shade tree (a nice >canopy), preferably doesn't drop many leaves, seeds, pollen etc. Thank you >for any help you can give me! > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From shinkletj@aol.com Tue Mar 12 03:27:57 2002 From: shinkletj@aol.com (shinkletj@aol.com) Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 20:27:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203120327.g2C3Rv509429@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a 3 year old peach tree in Mesa, AZ. I have been told to prune off previous years branches that had fruit. Is this a good idea, and when should I do it? What other pruning? I want to keep it small (5-6 ft). Thanks, Tom From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Mar 12 14:23:19 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 07:23:19 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning Peaches References: <200203120327.g2C3Rv509429@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C8E0F57.F082FB67@qwest.net> Tom, Here is what I learned from this winter's UA Citrus Clinic, which included a deciduous fruits segment. This is not from my own personal experience, which included a dwarf peach tree that I rarely needed to prune. This information was presented by Terry Mikel, who is a Maricopa County Cooperative Extension Commercial Ag Agent. First of all, when initially planted, it is recommended that the tree be cut between knee and hip level so that the canopy remains low and spreading. Annually, remove 1/3 to 1/2 of last year's growth, which you can identify as the 'whippy' branches. Cut off approximately 1/3 of the length of the remaining branches. [If you have no production after about 4 years, something is wrong with the tree and you probably need to replant.] You should know that while pruning may increase yields, it shortens the life of the tree. Terry estimates that one is lucky to get 10 years from a peach tree, so if you can limit your pruning against your annual fruit production needs, you can perhaps achieve a happy medium. Resources for deciduous fruits include a publication [MC 90] that you can order at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm You can also consult the relevant chapter of the Master Gardener Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ Good luck! Linda Guy, MG shinkletj@aol.com wrote: > I have a 3 year old peach tree in Mesa, AZ. I have been told to prune off previous years branches that had fruit. Is this a good idea, and when should I do it? What other pruning? I want to keep it small (5-6 ft). > Thanks, Tom > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From aar1@cox.net Wed Mar 13 00:08:43 2002 From: aar1@cox.net (aar1@cox.net) Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 17:08:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203130008.g2D08hX13935@Ag.arizona.edu> what type fertilizer do u recommed for texas ebony trees and the frequesncy thanks From Krulich@aol.com Wed Mar 13 01:04:55 2002 From: Krulich@aol.com (Krulich@aol.com) Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 20:04:55 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question: Oleanders declining in Tucson? Message-ID: <6e.193bafc1.29bfffb7@aol.com> Is there a disease that is causing my oleanders and others around Tucson to decline? The leaves on mine are simply drying up and turning brown. I know it's not a watering problem, or a chemical problem. Could this be oleander leaf scorch? I can scan some photos of the leaves if you think it would help in identifying the problem. Thanks, Tom From yingthaiaz@yahoo.com Wed Mar 13 03:04:41 2002 From: yingthaiaz@yahoo.com (G. Shimizu) Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 20:04:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <200203120147.g2C1lUP24940@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020312200338.00ac7068@pop.mail.yahoo.com> --=====================_5719263==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed auth 4afbbf07 subscribe arid_gardener yingthaiaz@yahoo.com --=====================_5719263==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" auth 4afbbf07 subscribe arid_gardener yingthaiaz@yahoo.com --=====================_5719263==_.ALT-- _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Mar 13 14:30:56 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 14:30:56 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question: Oleanders declining in Tucson? Message-ID: Tom, Could you bring a sample to our Plant Clinic at 4210 N. Campbell Avenue? We have been hearing similar symptoms reported. "Oleander Scorch" is present in California but we do not (to my knowledge) have a confirmed case in Tucson. We would just like to have some samples to check out with the UA Plant Pathology people. Samples should be a few good-sized stem tips, up to little finger size in diameter and a foot or so long, that show the browning and wiltng but not completely dead. Pathology needs to examine the stem tissue (xylem & phloem 'wood') to isolate "Oleander Scorch". Linda Drew Master Gardener 626-5161 >From: Krulich@aol.com >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question: Oleanders declining in Tucson? >Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 20:04:55 EST > >Is there a disease that is causing my oleanders and others around Tucson to >decline? The leaves on mine are simply drying up and turning brown. I >know >it's not a watering problem, or a chemical problem. Could this be oleander >leaf scorch? I can scan some photos of the leaves if you think it would >help >in identifying the problem. > >Thanks, >Tom >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From Lesliet@ssoft.com Wed Mar 13 16:04:09 2002 From: Lesliet@ssoft.com (Lesliet@ssoft.com) Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 09:04:09 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203131604.g2DG49X28326@Ag.arizona.edu> Hello, I am a native Californian that has lived in Arizona for 5 years so I am pretty new to this Dry climate gardening. My Snapdragons are phoneminal though I have been very successful with them. I bring Arms full of them to the office and share them with the girls here. Every year I plant small plants and get huge bushes of snapdragons. My only enemy is a small green worm, when he gets going he can destroy half my garden! I hate this worm! I dont want to cover my beautiful snap dragons in pesticides that dont like that and they show it! They get droopy and dry out! Sooo. what can I use that will kill these worms without killing the good bugs and without lossing half my garden! I saw that they had already started on the left hand side this morning and when I cut them I found these worms hidding out in the petals. Horrible things! They are green catapillar looking things. I have the allysum in the front and my soil is happy I wonder if I can get pellets or treat the soil. Thank you in advancefor your help. Leslie Angele Tabor From tslevins@u.arizona.edu Wed Mar 13 18:16:52 2002 From: tslevins@u.arizona.edu (tslevins@u.arizona.edu) Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 11:16:52 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203131816.g2DIGqX28734@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like to prune my caesalpinia mexicana into a tree. Is this possible after years of spring shrub-type pruning? If so, how do I do it? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Mar 13 19:30:47 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 19:30:47 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] caterpillars in snapdragons Message-ID: Hello Congratulations on the wonderful snapdragons! And for sharing them with others in your office. You might want to try "BT". It is a bacteria that is deadly to caterpillars but does not harm other creatures. You apply it to the leaves-when the caterpillar eats the leaves it dies. You should be able to get "BT" at nurseries and garden centers. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Lesliet@ssoft.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 09:04:09 -0700 (MST) > >Hello, > > I am a native Californian that has lived in Arizona for 5 years so I am >pretty new to this Dry climate gardening. My Snapdragons are phoneminal >though I have been very successful with them. I bring Arms full of them to >the office and share them with the girls here. Every year I plant small >plants and get huge bushes of snapdragons. My only enemy is a small green >worm, when he gets going he can destroy half my garden! I hate this worm! I >dont want to cover my beautiful snap dragons in pesticides that dont like >that and they show it! They get droopy and dry out! Sooo. what can I use >that will kill these worms without killing the good bugs and without >lossing half my garden! I saw that they had already started on the left >hand side this morning and when I cut them I found these worms hidding out >in the petals. Horrible things! They are green catapillar looking things. I >have the allysum in the front and my soil is happy I wonder if I can get >pellets or treat the soil. Thank y! >ou in advancefor your help. Leslie Angele Tabor > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From vlev@aol.com Wed Mar 13 19:48:43 2002 From: vlev@aol.com (vlev@aol.com) Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 12:48:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203131948.g2DJmhX17178@Ag.arizona.edu> Pine tree "fungus": Does anyone have experience/recommendation for treatment/cost to save mature pine trees from this "airborne fungus"? Is there any hope, or are we just "p___ in the wind" fighting Mother Nature? Thanks - From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Mar 13 22:03:30 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 17:03:30 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Texas E bony, fertilizing Message-ID: <120.cb5e4e4.29c126b2@aol.com> --part1_120.cb5e4e4.29c126b2_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Amonium sulfate or a general purpose fertilizer applied in late winter or early spring should work fine on your Texas Ebony. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_120.cb5e4e4.29c126b2_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Amonium sulfate or a general purpose fertilizer applied in late winter or early spring should work fine on your Texas Ebony.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_120.cb5e4e4.29c126b2_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Mar 13 22:03:31 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 17:03:31 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Caesalpinia mexicana Message-ID: <140.b02d181.29c126b3@aol.com> --part1_140.b02d181.29c126b3_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If you have been growing your Caesalpinia mexicana as a shrub there are probably multiple shoots. To change the shrub to a tree type of growth select the most vigorous shoot and cut off all of the others to the ground and keep them cut down until the one shoot grows to a tree shape. Initially you may have to support the one shoot with a stake. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_140.b02d181.29c126b3_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If you have been growing your Caesalpinia mexicana as a shrub there are probably multiple shoots. To change the shrub to a tree type of growth select the most vigorous shoot and cut off all of the others to the ground and keep them cut down until the one shoot grows to a tree shape. Initially you may have to support the one shoot with a stake.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_140.b02d181.29c126b3_boundary-- From pjwala@sphost.com Wed Mar 13 23:57:20 2002 From: pjwala@sphost.com (pjwala@sphost.com) Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 16:57:20 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203132357.g2DNvKX10664@Ag.arizona.edu> Could you give me some information on a tree I bought at Home Depot for bare root planting. It is now growing well, but I need to know what family it is from, if it has been grown to now grow in the valley, how drought resistant it is, will it produce fruit, is there an insect problem, etc. From jlh@zianet.com Thu Mar 14 00:19:10 2002 From: jlh@zianet.com (jlh@zianet.com) Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 17:19:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203140019.g2E0JAX14939@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like to plant an Ocotillo living fence. Can you help me?? What do I need to do? How do I do it? What do I need to do? If you have a picture I would greatly appreciate it! thankyou... L. Harmon From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Mar 14 00:39:51 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 00:39:51 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] unknown tree from Home Depot Message-ID: Do you have the tag from the tree? The tag will list the genus and species or at least a common name. That information will help us answer your question. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: pjwala@sphost.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 16:57:20 -0700 (MST) > >Could you give me some information on a tree I bought at Home Depot for >bare root planting. It is now growing well, but I need to know what family >it is from, if it has been grown to now grow in the valley, how drought >resistant it is, will it produce fruit, is there an insect problem, etc. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From copper@bargainsail.com Thu Mar 14 01:06:03 2002 From: copper@bargainsail.com (Copper Bittner) Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 18:06:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Down To Earth Toastmasters Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_004E_01C1CAB9.BD94F160 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Want to improve your communication skills? Be more effective in meetings? Get your point across more concisely? Then visit Down to Earth Toastmasters Club and learn how membership can help you succeed. Down to Earth Toastmasters Maricopa Extension Service 4341 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix (Broadway, just West of 48th Street) Tuesday Evenings: 5:45 - 7 PM Contact: Copper Bittner (480-802-9709) Visitors always welcome ------=_NextPart_000_004E_01C1CAB9.BD94F160 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Want to improve your = communication skills?=20 Be more effective in meetings? Get your point across more concisely? = Then visit=20 Down to Earth Toastmasters Club and learn how membership can help = you=20 succeed.

Down to Earth Toastmasters
Maricopa Extension = Service=20
4341 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix
(Broadway, just West of 48th = Street)=20
Tuesday Evenings: 5:45 - 7 PM
Contact: Copper Bittner (480-802-9709)
Visitors always=20 welcome
------=_NextPart_000_004E_01C1CAB9.BD94F160-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Mar 14 02:00:58 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 02:00:58 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: Unknown tree purchased at Home Depot Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_7394_18ac_5f3e Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed >From: Dale Tate >To: drew_linda@hotmail.com >Subject: Unknown tree purchased at Home Depot >Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 18:51:10 -0700 > >Linda, >Do your thing now Linda. Master Gardeners are often miraculous, now you >also need to be clairvoyant . There should be an extension school around >somewhere for such training. > >Dale Tate >5305 Anchorage Ave. >El Paso TX 79924 >915.751.3879 >http://daletate.tripod.com/gardentalk.html > _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com ------=_NextPart_000_7394_18ac_5f3e Content-Type: application/ms-tnef; name="winmail.dat" Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="winmail.dat" eJ8+IgsBAQaQCAAEAAAAAAABAAEAAQeQBgAIAAAA5AQAAAAAAADoAAEIgAcAGAAAAElQTS5NaWNy b3NvZnQgTWFpbC5Ob3RlADEIAQ2ABAACAAAAAgACAAEGgAMADgAAANIHAwANABIAKAAAAAMAJgEB A5AGAAAGAAAlAAAACwACAAEAAAALACMAAAAAAAMAJgAAAAAACwApAAAAAAADADYAAAAAAB4AcAAB AAAAJQAAAFVua25vd24gdHJlZSBwdXJjaGFzZWQgYXQgSG9tZSBEZXBvdAAAAAACAXEAAQAAABYA AAABwcr5Masv8gtJNp8R1ozCwJ9OwQAAAAACAR0MAQAAABkAAABTTVRQOkRBTEVUQVRFQFNXQkVM TC5ORVQAAAAACwABDgAAAABAAAYOANhpJ/nKwQECAQoOAQAAABgAAAAAAAAA7Eiv1LYl0k2EpA20 TFF4K8KAAAALAB8OAQAAAAIBCRABAAAAmAEAAJQBAADuAQAATFpGdTKJNoADAAoAcmNwZzEyNRYy APgLYG4OEDAzM08B9wKkA+MCAGNoCsBz8GV0MCAHEwKDAFAD1ZURdX0KgXYIkHdrC4B0ZDQMYGMA UAsDC7Q4ZCBME6FhLAqiCoBEiG8geQhhIHRoC4AwZyBubwfgFQMuIJEF0GFzdASQIEcLEY8J8ASQ BCAKwGUgbwGAoQnwIG1pcgDQdQkAOHVzLBaTFfEYYGxzXxXQGCAJgBYwFdBiGJBj4QthcnZveQBw BUAXMUxUaASQGJBzaAhgbOca0BshA5FleBjRAJACIPsckBDgbwbwGGEIYBOwHJBfA3AH0BxTAhAF wHMT8GjvFjAZMAuAFmEuFWQguBRhMxISAdAgRAdAGJBUYUMXkBVkNTMwNRFgboseIRkwZxiQQXZl IKUaRQMgUBdwFdBUWCAwNzk5MhPQFXM5MQA1Ljc1MS4zOAslgBVkaAJAcDovL+8VMCJwAZAXkC4g IAUgBHBiLgWgbS9nF+MBkGz0ay4nUG0DISEqFJQVZAUTEQAr0AsAAYAIIAYAAAAAAMAAAAAAAABG AAAAAAOFAAAAAAAAAwAQgAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYAAAAAUoUAACdqAQAeABKACCAGAAAAAADA AAAAAAAARgAAAABUhQAAAQAAAAQAAAA5LjAAHgATgAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYAAAAANoUAAAEA AAABAAAAAAAAAB4AFIAIIAYAAAAAAMAAAAAAAABGAAAAADeFAAABAAAAAQAAAAAAAAAeABWACCAG AAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAAAAA4hQAAAQAAAAEAAAAAAAAACwAWgAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYAAAAA goUAAAEAAAALAEOACCAGAAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAAAAAOhQAAAAAAAAMARYAIIAYAAAAAAMAAAAAA AABGAAAAABCFAAAAAAAAAwBGgAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYAAAAAEYUAAAAAAAADAEeACCAGAAAA AADAAAAAAAAARgAAAAAYhQAAAAAAAAMAW4AIIAYAAAAAAMAAAAAAAABGAAAAAAGFAAAAAAAACwCX gAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYAAAAABoUAAAAAAAACAfgPAQAAABAAAADsSK/UtiXSTYSkDbRMUXgr AgH6DwEAAAAQAAAA7Eiv1LYl0k2EpA20TFF4KwIB+w8BAAAAhgAAAAAAAAA4obsQBeUQGqG7CAAr KlbCAABQU1RQUlguRExMAAAAAAAAAABOSVRB+b+4AQCqADfZbgAAAEM6XFdJTkRPV1MuMDAwXExv Y2FsIFNldHRpbmdzXEFwcGxpY2F0aW9uIERhdGFcTWljcm9zb2Z0XE91dGxvb2tcb3V0bG9vay5w c3QAAAADAP4PBQAAAAMADTT9NwAAAgF/AAEAAAAzAAAAPE5DRU5JRUtFT0JQTU9ESUZNT0FPTUVL SkNFQUEuZGFsZXRhdGVAc3diZWxsLm5ldD4AAAMABhD2GPWmAwAHEOoAAAADABAQAAAAAAMAERAA AAAAHgAIEAEAAABlAAAATElOREEsRE9ZT1VSVEhJTkdOT1dMSU5EQU1BU1RFUkdBUkRFTkVSU0FS RU9GVEVOTUlSQUNVTE9VUyxOT1dZT1VBTFNPTkVFRFRPQkVDTEFJUlZPWUFOVFRIRVJFU0hPVUxE QgAAAACLPg== ------=_NextPart_000_7394_18ac_5f3e-- From Wayne_Hanne@email.msn.com Thu Mar 14 14:36:05 2002 From: Wayne_Hanne@email.msn.com (Wayne_Hanne) Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 07:36:05 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Orange Trees Message-ID: <001501c1cb65$94119440$d86bb5d1@acerpower6928> I have a grapefruit, tangelo and orange tree in a grouping. The leaves on the orange tree are curling up into a roll and the tree is losing its leaves. About half of the leaves are not gone. All trees are on the same watering system and the other fruit trees are very healthy. Can anyone help with this problem? Wayne Mangold From pblee@mindspring.com Thu Mar 14 14:53:53 2002 From: pblee@mindspring.com (pblee@mindspring.com) Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 07:53:53 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203141453.g2EErrX12799@Ag.arizona.edu> I PLANTED 6 LINCOLN BARE ROOT PLANTS ABOUT FEB 20, I DID EVERYTHING THE BIG WHOLESALER SAID BUT TO DATE NO GREEN LEAVES. HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE...ABOUT HALF THE PLANTS ARE STILL GREEN THE OTHER HALF ARE TURNING BROWN..SHOULD I START OVER??? From PERFLOWERS@aol.com Thu Mar 14 20:48:14 2002 From: PERFLOWERS@aol.com (PERFLOWERS@aol.com) Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 15:48:14 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Master Gardeners in Phx area - I need HELP Message-ID: <16b.a4691cb.29c2668e@aol.com> I just found out this morning that there hasn't been any work done on getting Michelle's garden ready for the Master Gardener Tour on Saturday, March 30. If any of you can spare some time this Saturday, March 16, to work in her yard, I would appreciate it. I just talked to Michelle and she said you could start arriving between 6 and 7 am. Michelle - 668 E Pepper Pl, Mesa, Arizona Directions in the Tour ticket read as follows: Cross Streets: Mesa Dr and Main Street - Directions: East on 60, exit on Mesa Dr, turn north on Mesa Dr to Main St, travel east on Main St to Hobson, north on Hobson to Pepper Pl, east on Pepper Pl - the house is on the left. If anyone would like additional information, please contact me. I will be working in my yard this afternoon till about 4. I will be home all evening and am up till about 10. Val Chairman, Master Gardener Garden Tour 623-849-4956 From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Mar 15 00:50:50 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 19:50:50 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roses, planted bare root are dying Message-ID: <189.4d1c5dd.29c29f6a@aol.com> --part1_189.4d1c5dd.29c29f6a_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I am assuming that the bare root Lincoln plants are roses. Your planting time was a little late in the season for bareroot roses, preferred planting time if you live in the low desert is January. The roses with canes that are turning brown may be dying but I wouldn't give up on them yet. Cover the canes completely with a mulch and keep continuously moist which means watering every day. Those that have green growth should survive, be sure that they are well watered. Do not fertilize until after the first bloom. Some of the roses that I planted in January are already in bloom. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian --part1_189.4d1c5dd.29c29f6a_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I am assuming that the bare root Lincoln plants are roses. Your planting time was a little late in the season for bareroot roses, preferred planting time  if you live in the low desert is January.  The roses with canes that are turning brown may be dying but I wouldn't give up on them yet. Cover the canes completely with a mulch and keep continuously moist which means watering every day. Those that have green growth should survive, be sure that they are well watered. Do not fertilize until after the first bloom.
Some of the roses that I planted in January are already in bloom.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian
--part1_189.4d1c5dd.29c29f6a_boundary-- From D Sparrow" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0310_01C1CBA4.7B2A2840 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable original message-----Hello: I have several ocotillos in my landscape. From time to time they need = trimming. I really hate to just throw the trimmings away. Can I mail = them to friends in other states?=20 Thanks -- Michele ------------------ on ocotillo culture: http://www.starnursery.com/notes/sn_415.cfm=20 for a story of an ocotillo fence: = http://www.tucsongardener.com/Year99/Summer99/outmy.htm=20 I love ocotillos. They are so graceful. I noticed you hadn't had an = answer posted so here are my thoughts. On mailing your pruned pieces of ocotillo elsewhere: You could contact = Desert Botanical Garden about ocotillo's transportablilty and whether it = would thrive elsewhere. You can reach the Desert Botanical Garden at = 480 9411225. =20 Their plant sale is coming this weekend, March 16 and 17. There will be = people there you can to talk to about plants in person. On pruning: Ocotillos are not pruned at all unless taking off an entire = cane near the base. They do not take to shaving into a shrubbery shape. = Remember that pruning stimulates growth. Since mine doesn't get a lot of water, it doesn't grow like crazy and = I've had no desire to prune it. It's possible that yours needs less = water than you've been giving it. =20 Other good uses for Ocotillo canes: The canes of ocotillo are a prized = fencing material. Perhpas you've seen the traditional ocotillo fences, = sometimes these fences even bloom! A small amount of fencing can be a = nice partof garden design. I hear that they can also keep goats out. Ocotillo is a protected plant and can not be freely gathered from the = desert so it isn't usually easy to find enough for a fence these days. = With this in mind, if I had canes available, I'd post to this list or = the AZ PLants list http://listserv.arizona.edu/archives/azplants.html . = This way the plant would have a good chance in it's home area and it = might help someone build an ocotillo fence. D Sparrow, MG ------=_NextPart_000_0310_01C1CBA4.7B2A2840 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
original message-----Hello:

I=20 have several ocotillos in my landscape. From time to time they need = trimming. I=20 really hate to just throw the trimmings away. Can I mail them to friends = in=20 other states?

Thanks --=20 Michele
------------------
on ocotillo culture:  http://www.starnurse= ry.com/notes/sn_415.cfm 
for a story of an ocotillo=20 fence:   http://w= ww.tucsongardener.com/Year99/Summer99/outmy.htm 
 
I love ocotillos.  They are so = graceful. =20 I noticed you hadn't had an answer posted so here are my=20 thoughts.
 
On mailing your pruned pieces of = ocotillo=20 elsewhere:   You could contact Desert=20 Botanical Garden about ocotillo's transportablilty and whether it would = thrive=20 elsewhere.   You can reach the Desert Botanical Garden at = 480=20 9411225. 
Their plant sale is coming this = weekend, March 16=20 and 17.  There will be people there you can to talk to about plants = in=20 person.
 
On pruning:  Ocotillos are not pruned at all unless taking off an=20 entire cane near the base.  They do not=20 take to shaving into a shrubbery shape.  Remember that = pruning=20 stimulates growth.
Since mine doesn't get a lot = of water, it=20 doesn't grow like crazy and I've had no desire to prune it.  = It's possible that yours needs less water than = you've been=20 giving it. 
 
Other good uses for Ocotillo = canes:  The canes=20 of ocotillo are a prized fencing material.  Perhpas you've seen the = traditional ocotillo fences, sometimes these fences even bloom!  A = small=20 amount of fencing can be a nice partof garden design.  I hear = that=20 they can also keep goats out.
Ocotillo is a=20 protected plant and can not be freely gathered from the desert so it = isn't=20 usually easy to find enough for a fence these days.  With this in mind, if I had=20 canes available, I'd post to this list or the AZ PLants list  http://listse= rv.arizona.edu/archives/azplants.html . =20 This way the plant would have a good = chance in=20 it's home area and it might help someone build an ocotillo=20 fence.
 
D Sparrow, MG
------=_NextPart_000_0310_01C1CBA4.7B2A2840-- From yingthaiaz@yahoo.com Fri Mar 15 14:33:33 2002 From: yingthaiaz@yahoo.com (Gaew Shimizu) Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 06:33:33 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] New to Arid_Gardener Message-ID: <20020315143333.99105.qmail@web14706.mail.yahoo.com> Hello: I'm new to this group and am very happy to have found it. My family just moved from IL last year and we're learning about gardening in AZ. This group is full of useful information. Thank you. Gail in Chandler __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Sports - live college hoops coverage http://sports.yahoo.com/ From bradleyl@Ag.arizona.edu Fri Mar 15 16:22:20 2002 From: bradleyl@Ag.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 09:22:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] living fence of ocotillo Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020315092104.01ca4cb0@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_9272423==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Please reply to: "jack harmon" I have a huge Ocotillo that I want to move and I love the idea of an ocotillo living fence. Where on the existing plant do I cut to replant for the fence?? How far apart should I put each whip? Will each cut whip make more whips off of the original? How deep should each whip be planted in the ground? Finally, how often should I water them after replanted? Any help here would be greatly appreciated!!! Thanks so much!! L. Harmon "jack harmon" --=====================_9272423==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"


Please reply to: 
"jack harmon" <jlh@zianet.com>

I have a huge Ocotillo that I want to move and I love the idea of an ocotillo living fence.  Where on the existing plant do I cut to replant for the fence??
How far apart should I put each whip?  Will each cut whip make more whips off of the original?  How deep should each whip be planted in the ground?  Finally, how often should I water them after replanted?
 
Any help here would be greatly appreciated!!!  Thanks so much!!
L.  Harmon
"jack harmon" <jlh@zianet.com>
--=====================_9272423==_.ALT-- From jagallison@worldnet.att.net Fri Mar 15 19:38:25 2002 From: jagallison@worldnet.att.net (jagallison@worldnet.att.net) Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 12:38:25 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203151938.g2FJcPX27022@Ag.arizona.edu> Do I need to have more than one dwarf bruce plum tree (prunus salicina) for cross pollination in order for the tree to bear fruit? From copper@bargainsail.com Fri Mar 15 19:44:48 2002 From: copper@bargainsail.com (Copper Bittner) Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 12:44:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] New to Arid_Gardener In-Reply-To: <20020315143333.99105.qmail@web14706.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hello Gail, Welcome to the Sonoran Desert and the Phoenix area. There is so much information available to all at the Maricopa County Extension office at 4331 E Broadway in Phoenix. Desert gardening takes a bit of getting used to, but if you'll avail yourself to our informational flyers, use this list, and consider becoming a Master Gardener through the Extension's fine program, you'll feel like an oldtimer in no time at all. We are all here to help. Copper Bittner Master Gardener Maricopa County Chandler -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Gaew Shimizu Sent: Friday, March 15, 2002 7:34 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] New to Arid_Gardener Hello: I'm new to this group and am very happy to have found it. My family just moved from IL last year and we're learning about gardening in AZ. This group is full of useful information. Thank you. Gail in Chandler __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Sports - live college hoops coverage http://sports.yahoo.com/ _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Jonathan Kandell" As I was picking carrots today, I noticed a small 1" worm inside eating. This looked like the same type of worm I have throughout my garden, whitish-brown earthworms. But earthworms don't eat live vegetables do they? jk From RkBetu@aol.com Fri Mar 15 20:38:24 2002 From: RkBetu@aol.com (RkBetu@aol.com) Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 15:38:24 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sick Carob Message-ID: <17.24dc649f.29c3b5c0@aol.com> In a message dated 3/11/02 10:23:46 AM, drew_linda@hotmail.com writes: << Can you give us some information about care -- when, how, and how much you water, use of fertilizers, etc. That will give us an idea of what is happening. >> Sorry for the reposting, computer said mail was not going thru.. I see no fungus or insects on the carob. Dirt is well away from the trunk. There is some new growth, but the tree is also dropping a lot of leaves. Following Western Garden guide, I irrigate (with hose, slow drip over night into drip line moat) only about once a month. I have not fertilized since last spring. Bark begins to split vertically, up to a inch or so long, then appears to be peeling back horizontally. Most splitting is on the southeast side within a foot or so from the ground. What worries me most, is the tree is so loose in the ground, I almost feel I could pull it out. I've had gopher problems, could they do this damage to a tree this age? Thanks again, Rocki From umiller@azdps.com Sat Mar 16 01:02:57 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 18:02:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] do earthworms eat carrots? In-Reply-To: <000501c1cc5a$fd9e0880$7239bbd0@oemcomputer> Message-ID: I have no idea, but my husband says 'yes' - it makes them see better. (Sorry, folks. I just lost control when I read the subject of this message.) Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Jonathan Kandell Sent: Friday, March 15, 2002 12:53 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] do earthworms eat carrots? As I was picking carrots today, I noticed a small 1" worm inside eating. This looked like the same type of worm I have throughout my garden, whitish-brown earthworms. But earthworms don't eat live vegetables do they? jk _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Jonathan Kandell" Message-ID: <003a01c1cc90$8f129080$7639bbd0@oemcomputer> Which begs the question: Are wireworms a menace in the garden? ----- Original Message ----- From: Linda Drew To: Sent: Friday, March 15, 2002 5:54 PM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] do earthworms eat carrots? | | >As I was picking carrots today, I noticed a small 1" worm inside eating. | >This looked like the same type of worm I have throughout my garden, | >whitish-brown earthworms. But earthworms don't eat live vegetables do | >they? | I don't believe earthworms would eat your carrots, but | wireworms would. Earthworms are often red and "soft", | the wireworms are more tan and "wiry" :-) | | Linda Drew | Master Gardener From umiller@azdps.com Sat Mar 16 03:32:00 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 20:32:00 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] do earthworms eat carrots? - Serious Answer In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Because I made up that wiseguy answer, I felt compelled to do a little research on the subject. Using Google, I came up with this site: http://www.laep.org/target/units/recycle/activities/waste_management.html It says that the earthworms do, indeed, eat carrots. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Ursula Miller Sent: Friday, March 15, 2002 6:03 PM To: Jonathan Kandell; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] do earthworms eat carrots? I have no idea, but my husband says 'yes' - it makes them see better. (Sorry, folks. I just lost control when I read the subject of this message.) Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Jonathan Kandell Sent: Friday, March 15, 2002 12:53 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] do earthworms eat carrots? As I was picking carrots today, I noticed a small 1" worm inside eating. This looked like the same type of worm I have throughout my garden, whitish-brown earthworms. But earthworms don't eat live vegetables do they? jk _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From umiller@azdps.com Sat Mar 16 15:14:35 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 08:14:35 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Geranium and Stock Seeds How to Grow Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C1CCC2.9C03C8E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit I bought some geranium and stock seeds for next year. Since these plants take 150-180 days to flower, I guess I’d have to plant the seeds in the summer if I want the actual plants to start growing in the fall. Since it’s so hot here in the summer, would I be better off sprouting the seeds in one of those little peat things indoors, let the plant grow a little and then plant it outdoors? Or should I just put the seeds in the ground in August and keep them wet? Ursula Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C1CCC2.9C03C8E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I bought some geranium and = stock seeds for next year.=A0 Since = these plants take 150-180 days to flower, I guess I=92d have to plant the seeds in = the summer if I want the actual plants to start growing in the fall.=A0 Since it=92s so hot here in the = summer, would I be better off sprouting the seeds in one of those little peat things = indoors, let the plant grow a little and then plant it outdoors?=A0 Or should I just put the seeds in = the ground in August and keep them wet?

 

Ursula Miller

 <= /p>

------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C1CCC2.9C03C8E0-- From Jonathan Kandell" Message-ID: <002c01c1cd00$89ff7980$6939bbd0@oemcomputer> | Because I made up that wiseguy answer, I felt compelled to do a little | research on the subject. Using Google, I came up with this site: | http://www.laep.org/target/units/recycle/activities/waste_management.html It | says that the earthworms do, indeed, eat carrots. Linda was right; it _was_ a wireworm in my carrots, not an earthworm. And, like a fool, I put it back into the soil! jk From clemmirk@aol.com Sat Mar 16 16:13:34 2002 From: clemmirk@aol.com (clemmirk@aol.com) Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 09:13:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203161613.g2GGDYg07013@Ag.arizona.edu> Ina some areas of my garden the water does not flow to all the plants, and in others it floods the area. Is there a standard height for the bubblers to be set above ground level? From gardenguru" Message-ID: <042201c1cd0a$9a534500$0100007f@ibm22761658747> Citrus Trees are subject to several diseases including Root Rot, Foot Rot and Gummosis. The symptons include sap oozing from the trunk or branches and defoliation. Prevention is the best approach to controlling most citrus diseases. Proper watering is important to controlling diseases. Let soil dry out partially between watering and don't allow water to stand against the trunk. If necessary, remove soil away from the trunk and create a gentle slope so water can drain away. Clean up falllen leaves from under your trees. The County has several good docs to help you with your citrus. The * docs are avail online at the web site below. Others are avail for $1 at the address below. CITRUS *AZ1001 Low Desert Citrus Varieties *AZ1146 Budding Citrus Trees *AZ1151 Irrigating Citrus Trees *AZ1154 Diseases of Citrus in Arizona MC8 Recovery of Neglected Citrus Trees MC17 Irrigation Needs of Citrus MC65 Quality Citrus Trees MC91 Fertilizing Citrus Trees Q191 Phytophthora Foot Rot of Citrus 8670 Fertilizing Citrus Trees in Arizona http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Hope this helps GG ----- Original Message ----- From: "Wayne_Hanne" To: Sent: Thursday, March 14, 2002 7:36 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Orange Trees > I have a grapefruit, tangelo and orange tree in a grouping. The leaves on > the orange tree are curling up into a roll and the tree is losing its > leaves. About half of the leaves are not gone. All trees are on the same > watering system and the other fruit trees are very healthy. Can anyone help > with this problem? > > Wayne Mangold > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From alamo@ultrasw.com Sat Mar 16 17:59:17 2002 From: alamo@ultrasw.com (Signa) Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 10:59:17 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Trees & Underground Utilities Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020316105610.00a182a0@pop3.norton.antivirus> How many feet from a residential natural gas line may a lemon tree safely be planted? Signa From diggr@futureone.com Sat Mar 16 22:36:20 2002 From: diggr@futureone.com (diggr@futureone.com) Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 15:36:20 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203162236.g2GMaKg05824@Ag.arizona.edu> I'm wondering if when i plant tomatoes this yr, if i put up shade it will help all that much? Also, I'm thinking of installing misters overhead to keep the temperature down so the plants will have a chance to pollenate and keep producing. I have a small garden 18'x20' and plant the same thing every year. Under the tomatoe bed, i've noticed this past week "white large worms" in the soil, only where the tomatoes had been planted, so i'm assuming these worms are tomatoe eaters ? thanks for your help From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Mar 16 22:39:17 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 15:39:17 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Leaf Curl on Orange Trees References: <001501c1cb65$94119440$d86bb5d1@acerpower6928> Message-ID: <3C93C995.65FC1A45@qwest.net> The way you decribe the leaves makes me think of thrips. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/c-thrips.htm Damage is cosmetic and the culprit has usually come and gone by the time you notice the characteristic curled leaves. We have several online means to help you diagnose problems. First is the monthly timely tips column: if you had scanned the March column for issues with leaves,you would have been led to the above site. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/march.htm Another great website is UA's Urban Integrated Pest Management http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/ They also discuss thrips at http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/insects/thrips.html Sometimes its hard to know why some trees are hit and others aren't. If you don't believe that thrips are your problem after perusing this, let us know and we'll continue troubleshooting. Linda Guy, MG Wayne_Hanne wrote: > I have a grapefruit, tangelo and orange tree in a grouping. The leaves on > the orange tree are curling up into a roll and the tree is losing its > leaves. About half of the leaves are not gone. All trees are on the same > watering system and the other fruit trees are very healthy. Can anyone help > with this problem? > > Wayne Mangold > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Mar 16 22:53:28 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 15:53:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pine Tree Fungus References: <200203131948.g2DJmhX17178@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C93CCE8.300175C5@qwest.net> I searched the UA's Plant Pathology website and came up with a rare occurrence of cotton root rot in pines. http://ag.arizona.edu/PLP/plpext/newsletter/newsletter9/newsletter9.html http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/root-rot.htm What type of pine do you have, who told you it was suffering from fungus and what sypmtoms suggest to this person that it is indeed a fungus, airborne or otherwise? Could your tree be suffering from Pine Blight which is a physiological condition that can be improved as your cultural practices are improved? http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/cultural/aleppo.htm Linda Guy, MG vlev@aol.com wrote: > Pine tree "fungus": Does anyone have experience/recommendation for treatment/cost to save mature pine trees from this "airborne fungus"? Is there any hope, or are we just "p___ in the wind" fighting Mother Nature? Thanks - > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From gardenguru" Message-ID: <047201c1cd78$ef2910a0$0100007f@ibm22761658747> Wayne, Linda's post is correct regarding leaf curl re: thrips but this insect does not lead to leaf lose. They are microscopic insects that infest new growth and suck juice from the very small leaves. This results in the adult leaves being mis-shapen. Is is cosmetic and does not affect fruit production. The lose of leaves lead me to believe that you have a diseased tree. If the documents and other data do not provide you with sufficient info to resolve you problem, you may need to consult a professional. GG ----- Original Message ----- From: "Wayne_Hanne" To: Sent: Thursday, March 14, 2002 7:36 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Orange Trees > I have a grapefruit, tangelo and orange tree in a grouping. The leaves on > the orange tree are curling up into a roll and the tree is losing its > leaves. About half of the leaves are not gone. All trees are on the same > watering system and the other fruit trees are very healthy. Can anyone help > with this problem? > > Wayne Mangold > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From mtemple@imap2.asu.edu Sun Mar 17 06:40:34 2002 From: mtemple@imap2.asu.edu (mtemple@imap2.asu.edu) Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 23:40:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203170640.g2H6eYg15057@Ag.arizona.edu> I have standard drip irrigation tubing in my garden,but was wondering whether a bubbler head could be hooked onto this to more efficiently irrigate my citrus trees. Right now I have about a dozen 2 gallon an hour emitters all over the tree basin and it makes fertilizing a hassle. Any ideas? From gardenguru" Message-ID: <049a01c1cdb9$c798ac80$0100007f@ibm22761658747> The quantity of water your citrus tree needs is based on the size of the canopy. This data is available in the docs from the county. AZ1151 is avail online at the Web site below. MC17 is avail by mail for $1 from their office. Depending on the drip system you have installed, home improvement centers have conversion kits that enable you to replace drip emmitters with flood bubblers.The irrigation area under your canopy should extend to 1 ft outside the canopy to 1 ft inside the canopy. The problem with bubblers is you need to determine how much water is delivered to your tree. This can be done by using your water meter. With your emitters, you now know that you are delivering 24 gal per hour. The docs will provide you with the gallons you need based on canopy size and frequency by season. Water should not be allowed to collect next to the trunk to reduce the chance of disease. You can build a donut flood area. MC91 and 8670 will also help you with Fertilizing your trees. AZ1151 Irrigating Citrus Trees * MC17 Irrigation Needs of Citrus MC91 Fertilizing Citrus Trees 8670 Fertilizing Citrus Trees in Arizona http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Hope this helps GG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, March 16, 2002 11:40 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I have standard drip irrigation tubing in my garden,but was wondering whether a bubbler head could be hooked onto this to more efficiently irrigate my citrus trees. Right now I have about a dozen 2 gallon an hour emitters all over the tree basin and it makes fertilizing a hassle. Any ideas? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From millero@worldnet.att.net Sun Mar 17 13:53:11 2002 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 06:53:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200203162236.g2GMaKg05824@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000601c1cdbb$162e5c40$dd53530c@j0r9501> ----- Original Message ----- From: > I'm wondering if when i plant tomatoes this yr, if i put up shade it will help all that much? Yes, It not only extends the period for setting fruit but also protects against the beet leaf hopper that is a vector for curly top virus. The leaf hopper likes sun and avoids shade. >Also, I'm thinking of installing misters overhead to keep the temperature down so the plants will have a chance to pollenate and keep producing. Good idea. >I have a small garden 18'x20' and plant the same thing every year. Under the tomatoe bed, i've noticed this past week "white large worms" in the soil, only where the tomatoes had been planted, so i'm assuming these worms are tomatoe eaters ? The tomato hornworm is green, not white, and does not live in the soil. If your white worm is very large, it may be a June bug scarab which does not bother live vegetation but might feed on roots. The smaller white worms could be cutworms that may, but usually don't, bother tomatoes. Olin From millero@worldnet.att.net Sun Mar 17 14:04:20 2002 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 07:04:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200203170640.g2H6eYg15057@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <001101c1cdbc$a63dd3a0$dd53530c@j0r9501> You can get 1/2 drip tubing that has emitters at various spacings (1/2 ft, 1 ft, 2 ft) depending on your needs, and install it at the drip line of the tree. This has an advantage over bubblers in that you don't need to worry about the water overflowing the basin. I leave mine turned on over night once per month in the winter and twice in the summer. Cover the drip line with an organic mulch like leaves or straw to prevent salt accumulation where the water evaporates. You can also inject fertilizer into the drip tapes. The newer drip tapes do no require a pressure compensator. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > I have standard drip irrigation tubing in my garden,but was wondering whether a bubbler head could be hooked onto this to more efficiently irrigate my citrus trees. Right now I have about a dozen 2 gallon an hour emitters all over the tree basin and it makes fertilizing a hassle. From moordeene@email.msn.com Sun Mar 17 14:35:07 2002 From: moordeene@email.msn.com (moordeene@email.msn.com) Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 07:35:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203171435.g2HEZ7g20576@Ag.arizona.edu> What is the best type of grass to plant in Phoenix? I have a high traffic yard and several small trees as well as one huge eucalyptus tree. From umiller@azdps.com Sun Mar 17 16:12:03 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 09:12:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Coreopsis - Annual or Perennial? Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C1CD93.CD5E9920 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit I’m still confused about the annual/perennial designations on some plants. One chart that I look at says that it’s an annual and that it will die each year. Yet one of my books says that coreopsis should be cut back in the fall to basal growth and that it should be divided. That’s where I’m confused. If it’s an annual, why would I cut it back and divide it – wouldn ’t I just pull it out and replant it again next year? Ursula Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C1CD93.CD5E9920 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I=92m still confused about = the annual/perennial designations on some plants.=A0 One chart that I look at says that it=92s an annual and that it = will die each year.=A0 Yet one of my = books says that coreopsis should be cut back in the fall to basal growth and that = it should be divided.=A0 That=92s = where I=92m confused.=A0 If it=92s an = annual, why would I cut it back and divide it =96 wouldn=92t I just pull it out and replant = it again next year?

 

Ursula Miller

 <= /p>

------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C1CD93.CD5E9920-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Mar 17 18:54:48 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 13:54:48 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Coreopsis - Annual or Perennial? Message-ID: <144.b2ef57d.29c64078@aol.com> --part1_144.b2ef57d.29c64078_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ursula,, Cooperativve Extensioin bulletin Q 385 lists the coreopsis as a perenial, it further says that the plants will last two to four years. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_144.b2ef57d.29c64078_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ursula,,

Cooperativve Extensioin bulletin Q 385 lists the coreopsis as a perenial, it further says that the plants will last two to four years.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_144.b2ef57d.29c64078_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Mar 17 18:56:28 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 13:56:28 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf for shade and heavy traffic Message-ID: <7c.249838fa.29c640dc@aol.com> --part1_7c.249838fa.29c640dc_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit What you are asking for is probably impossible. Bermuda grass is the grass of choice for the low desert, either common bermuda or hybrid. However it does not do well in shade. St Augustine is more tolerant of shade but is only moderately successful against high traffic and should not be overseeded for winter green. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_7c.249838fa.29c640dc_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit What you are asking for is probably impossible. Bermuda grass is the grass of choice for the low desert, either common bermuda or hybrid. However it does not do well in shade. St Augustine is more tolerant of shade but is only moderately successful against high traffic and should not be overseeded for winter green.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener  
--part1_7c.249838fa.29c640dc_boundary-- From umiller@azdps.com Sun Mar 17 22:36:38 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 15:36:38 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Coreopsis - Annual or Perennial? In-Reply-To: <144.b2ef57d.29c64078@aol.com> Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C1CDC9.876BE400 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Rod – OK. I was looking at the Extension’s Flower and Bedding Plant Guide for the Low Desert. After Coreopsis it has an A (blooms and dies in one season). Oh well, it doesn’t matter. I’m just happy that these little yellow guys are going to be around for a few years. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: RodMcQ6@aol.com [mailto:RodMcQ6@aol.com] Sent: Sunday, March 17, 2002 11:55 AM To: umiller@azdps.com Cc: arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Coreopsis - Annual or Perennial? Ursula,, Cooperativve Extensioin bulletin Q 385 lists the coreopsis as a perenial, it further says that the plants will last two to four years. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C1CDC9.876BE400 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Ro= d –

 

OK= .  I was looking at the = Extension’s Flower and Bedding Plant Guide for the Low Desert.  After Coreopsis it has an A (blooms and dies in one season).  =

 

Oh= well, it doesn’t matter.  = I’m just happy that these little yellow guys are going to be around for a few = years.  =

 

Ursula Miller

<= span class=3DEmailStyle15> 

-----Original Message-----
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com [mailto:RodMcQ6@aol.com]
Sent: Sunday, March 17, = 2002 11:55 AM
To: umiller@azdps.com
Cc: = arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu
Subject: Re: = [Arid_gardener] Coreopsis - Annual or Perennial?

 

Ursula,,

Cooperativve Extensioin bulletin Q 385 lists the coreopsis as a = perenial, it further says that the plants will last two to four years.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener

------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C1CDC9.876BE400-- From Suebedoo@aol.com Mon Mar 18 02:38:26 2002 From: Suebedoo@aol.com (Suebedoo@aol.com) Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 19:38:26 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203180238.g2I2cQg20209@Ag.arizona.edu> I am wondering if you can help me have a nice green summer lawn this year sans weeds. My lawn has been dormant all winter. I have recently thatched and raked and now I have quite a few bare spots where I have pulled out crabgrass. My question is how and when do I begin? Overseed, fertilize? What can I do to keep crabgrass from coming back? I have seen Zoysia grass advertized in the AZ Republic. Does that have good results in AZ? Thanks for your help. Sue From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Mon Mar 18 04:18:59 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 20:18:59 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question --summer lawn prep In-Reply-To: <200203180238.g2I2cQg20209@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20020318041859.53151.qmail@web14906.mail.yahoo.com> While you are off to a good start, you are a little early.The best time to dethatch is when the summer grass is growing.Your summer lawn won't come out of ots winter nap till nightime temperatures are 65 degrees for about a week. We could be a few weeks away from that.Both Scotts and Vigaro make a fertilizer that contains a crabgrass preventer. I might suggest you wait till nite temps warm up a bit before fertilizing and watering a normal schedule.DO NOT over seed or change grasses. Your summer lawn will fill in the bare spots where you pulled up the weeds.The three "Ps" to a good landscape are planning,patience, and patience. --- Suebedoo@aol.com wrote: > I am wondering if you can help me have a nice green > summer lawn this year sans weeds. > My lawn has been dormant all winter. I have > recently thatched and raked and now I have quite a > few bare spots where I have pulled out crabgrass. > My question is how and when do I begin? Overseed, > fertilize? What can I do to keep crabgrass from > coming back? I have seen Zoysia grass advertized in > the AZ Republic. Does that have good results in AZ? > Thanks for your help. Sue > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Sports - live college hoops coverage http://sports.yahoo.com/ From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Mon Mar 18 04:24:54 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 20:24:54 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question -drip for trees In-Reply-To: <200203170640.g2H6eYg15057@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20020318042454.24201.qmail@web14905.mail.yahoo.com> Actually drip is an excellent way to water plants.Don't change yours. If your system is properly installed, you have a filter in the system. There are fertilizing tablets made to fit in the filter so you can water and fertilize at the same time. Check your nurseries. --- mtemple@imap2.asu.edu wrote: > I have standard drip irrigation tubing in my > garden,but was wondering whether a bubbler head > could be hooked onto this to more efficiently > irrigate my citrus trees. Right now I have about a > dozen 2 gallon an hour emitters all over the tree > basin and it makes fertilizing a hassle. Any ideas? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Sports - live college hoops coverage http://sports.yahoo.com/ From millero@worldnet.att.net Mon Mar 18 05:39:37 2002 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 22:39:37 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Coreopsis - Annual or Perennial? References: Message-ID: <000e01c1ce3f$4d002080$8e53530c@j0r9501> Some coreopsis varieties are annuals but most are perennials. But many of the perennial types grown here are grown as annuals. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ursula Miller" To: Sent: Sunday, March 17, 2002 9:12 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Coreopsis - Annual or Perennial? I’m still confused about the annual/perennial designations on some plants. One chart that I look at says that it’s an annual and that it will die each year. Yet one of my books says that coreopsis should be cut back in the fall to basal growth and that it should be divided. That’s where I’m confused. If it’s an annual, why would I cut it back and divide it – wouldn ’t I just pull it out and replant it again next year? Ursula Miller From rmford1@mindspring.com Mon Mar 18 14:41:15 2002 From: rmford1@mindspring.com (Renea Ford) Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 07:41:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Blue Hibiscus flowers Message-ID: <002e01c1ce8a$f664e2a0$d68c85ce@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_002B_01C1CE50.48D97180 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable A significant number of purple flowers on my Blue Hibiscus (Alyogyne = huegelii) are drying up from their outside edges inward almost as soon = as they bloom, i.e., crinkling and turning dark blue, like fine, parched = paper. Are they low on water, or lacking a nutrient? Their exposure = (N, S, E, W) doesn't seem to matter. I'm at 2500 feet. Any ideas? Thank you, Renea ------=_NextPart_000_002B_01C1CE50.48D97180 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
A significant number of purple flowers on my Blue = Hibiscus=20 (Alyogyne huegelii) are drying up from their outside edges inward almost = as soon=20 as they bloom, i.e., crinkling and turning dark blue, like fine, = parched=20 paper.  Are they low on water, or lacking a nutrient?  = Their=20 exposure (N, S, E, W) doesn't seem to matter.  I'm at 2500 = feet.  Any=20 ideas?
 
Thank you,
Renea
------=_NextPart_000_002B_01C1CE50.48D97180-- From boofie@bigfoot.com Mon Mar 18 17:31:24 2002 From: boofie@bigfoot.com (Jessica Boof Sizemore) Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 09:31:24 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] do earthworms eat carrots? - Serious Answer In-Reply-To: <002c01c1cd00$89ff7980$6939bbd0@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <20020318173124.10893.qmail@web10008.mail.yahoo.com> don't mean to be stupid here.... what is a wire worm? Boof --- Jonathan Kandell wrote: > | Because I made up that wiseguy answer, I felt compelled to do a > little > | research on the subject. Using Google, I came up with this site: > | > http://www.laep.org/target/units/recycle/activities/waste_management.html > It > | says that the earthworms do, indeed, eat carrots. > > Linda was right; it _was_ a wireworm in my carrots, not an > earthworm. And, > like a fool, I put it back into the soil! > > jk > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener ===== Tucson, Az __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Sports - live college hoops coverage http://sports.yahoo.com/ From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Mar 18 21:02:58 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 21:02:58 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] do earthworms eat carrots? - Serious Answer Message-ID: wireworm: long, cylindrical worms with tough, shiny skin; the larvae of a click beetle. Worms are pale tan to reddish brown in color and up to 1 and 1/2 inches long. They have three pair of short legs just behind the head. The feed entirely underground, chewing on germinating seeds or on the roots, stems and tubers of various plants. Common food plants are bean, beet, carrot, corn, lettuce, onion, pea, and potato. Trap wireworms in pieces of potato scattered around the garden. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Jessica Boof Sizemore >Reply-To: boofie@bigfoot.com >To: Jonathan Kandell , arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] do earthworms eat carrots? - Serious Answer >Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 09:31:24 -0800 (PST) > >don't mean to be stupid here.... what is a wire worm? >Boof > >--- Jonathan Kandell wrote: > > | Because I made up that wiseguy answer, I felt compelled to do a > > little > > | research on the subject. Using Google, I came up with this site: > > | > > >http://www.laep.org/target/units/recycle/activities/waste_management.html > > It > > | says that the earthworms do, indeed, eat carrots. > > > > Linda was right; it _was_ a wireworm in my carrots, not an > > earthworm. And, > > like a fool, I put it back into the soil! > > > > jk > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > >===== >Tucson, Az > >__________________________________________________ >Do You Yahoo!? >Yahoo! Sports - live college hoops coverage >http://sports.yahoo.com/ >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From toniajohnson@earthlink.net Mon Mar 18 23:22:03 2002 From: toniajohnson@earthlink.net (Toni & Earnest Johnson) Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 15:22:3 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lemon Trees! Message-ID: <412002311823223200@earthlink.net> ------=_NextPart_84815C5ABAF209EF376268C8 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII We are ready to choose a lemon tree to plant. Which one has the best taste? We are in Tucson and were looking at Eureka or Lisbon sold in our area. Which of these would be better or is there a better choice? Thank you so much for your time. Toni ------=_NextPart_84815C5ABAF209EF376268C8 Content-Type: text/html; charset=US-ASCII

We are ready to choose a lemon tree to plant.  Which one has the best taste?  We are in Tucson and were looking at Eureka or Lisbon sold in our area.  Which of these would be better or is there a better choice?
 
Thank you so much for your time.
Toni
 
 
 

------=_NextPart_84815C5ABAF209EF376268C8-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Mar 18 23:42:37 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 16:42:37 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Coreopsis - Annual or Perennial? References: Message-ID: <3C967B6D.3D1A1D8@qwest.net> --------------A433DDBCD2D2418AA0E63931 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit There are both annual and perennial coreopsis. Linda Ursula Miller wrote: > I’m still confused about the annual/perennial designations on some > plants.One chart that I look at says that it’s an annual and that it > will die each year.Yet one of my books says that coreopsis should be > cut back in the fall to basal growth and that it should be > divided.That’s where I’m confused.If it’s an annual, why would I cut > it back and divide it – wouldn’t I just pull it out and replant it > again next year? > > Ursula Miller > --------------A433DDBCD2D2418AA0E63931 Content-Type: text/html; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit There are both annual and perennial coreopsis.

Linda

Ursula Miller wrote:

I’m still confused about the annual/perennial designations on some plants.One chart that I look at says that it’s an annual and that it will die each year.Yet one of my books says that coreopsis should be cut back in the fall to basal growth and that it should be divided.That’s where I’m confused.If it’s an annual, why would I cut it back and divide it – wouldn’t I just pull it out and replant it again next year?

Ursula Miller

--------------A433DDBCD2D2418AA0E63931-- From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue Mar 19 00:35:04 2002 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 17:35:04 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] do earthworms eat carrots? - Serious Answer References: Message-ID: <000d01c1cee0$477487e0$0f57530c@j0r9501> After nearly 4 decades of gardening in the low desert, I have never seen a wireworm. I was beginning to believe they couldn't survive ere. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Linda Drew" > wireworm: > long, cylindrical worms with tough, shiny skin; > the larvae of a click beetle. Worms are pale tan to > reddish brown in color and up to 1 and 1/2 inches long. > They have three pair of short legs just behind the head. > > The feed entirely underground, chewing on germinating > seeds or on the roots, stems and tubers of various plants. > Common food plants are bean, beet, carrot, corn, lettuce, > onion, pea, and potato. > > Trap wireworms in pieces of potato scattered around the > garden. > > Linda Drew > Master Gardener From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue Mar 19 00:51:46 2002 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 17:51:46 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lemon Trees! References: <412002311823223200@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <000e01c1cee0$47facee0$0f57530c@j0r9501> Either Lisbon or Eureka are would be a good choice. Lisbon is a dense, thorny, fast growing highly productive tree with somewhat better tolerance to hot and cool temperature extremes that Eureka. Fruit of has both has a nice lemony flavor and are not as sour as most other types. We previously had a Eureka for 12 years (in Phoenix) and yield was adequate for our needs. It has a somewhat more open growth habit than Lisbon. We now have a Lisbon these past 18 years which has never been fertilized but annually produces enough lemons to for a yearly supply of lemons for several families of winter visitors as well as much of the neighborhood with enough left over to haul to the Westside food Bank. We frequently have branches break due to the heavy load. Our Lisbon requires annual pruning to permit us to get in under three so we can pick up the windfalls without getting too bloody. After these experiences, I would opt for a Eureka, at least in Phoenix. Tucson may be a different story. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Toni & Earnest Johnson" > > We are ready to choose a lemon tree to plant. Which one has the best > taste? We are in Tucson and were looking at Eureka or Lisbon sold in our > area. Which of these would be better or is there a better choice? From patriciajoangelini@msn.com Tue Mar 19 05:31:20 2002 From: patriciajoangelini@msn.com (patriciajoangelini@msn.com) Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 22:31:20 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203190531.g2J5VKg02969@Ag.arizona.edu> My husband and I would like to grow a meadow in our backyard. I searched this site and didn't find anything that could help us. We would like to have wildflowers and ntural grasses in it. Can anyone help us? Thanks. From pamela@u.arizona.edu Tue Mar 19 06:39:45 2002 From: pamela@u.arizona.edu (Pamela Tremain Koch) Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 14:39:45 +0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200203190531.g2J5VKg02969@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <001601c1cf11$298bb560$24ddd690@computer> I grow blue gramma and buffalo grass in my Tucson backyard--very pretty and wild meadow looking. I cut it back once or twice a year. The blue gramma can get tall when it goes to seed--12 to 18 inches, but the seeds are pretty eyelashed. Plus, we can get by on deep watering every 1 to 2 weeks in summer. (I assume you are located in the desert as we are). It will survive on even less water, but won't be as green. It does go dormant in the winter. In one section we have mixed in some wildflower seed (CA poppy, firewheel, and some others). ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2002 1:31 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > My husband and I would like to grow a meadow in our backyard. I searched this site and didn't find anything that could help us. We would like to have wildflowers and ntural grasses in it. Can anyone help us? > > Thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From jp.bernard@vivelejardin.com Tue Mar 19 13:25:07 2002 From: jp.bernard@vivelejardin.com (jp.bernard@vivelejardin.com) Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 06:25:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203191325.g2JDP7g16609@Ag.arizona.edu> I'm looking for the latin name of the LIMEQUAT. Thanks for your help. JPB From Chris_Nichols@Dell.com Tue Mar 19 13:46:18 2002 From: Chris_Nichols@Dell.com (Chris_Nichols@Dell.com) Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 07:46:18 -0600 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <558DC7C51772B3489A342EC141F973A51F1046@AUSXMPS306.aus.amer.dell.com> Citrofortunella floridana > -----Original Message----- > From: jp.bernard@vivelejardin.com [mailto:jp.bernard@vivelejardin.com] > Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2002 7:25 AM > To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > > I'm looking for the latin name of the LIMEQUAT. > > Thanks for your help. > > JPB > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Mar 19 13:54:27 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 13:54:27 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] limequat Message-ID: A check of the web found this: There are three varieties of Limequat, resulting from different crosses between Citrus aurantifolia and Fortunella. They were produced in Florida, USA, and named Lakeland, Eustis and Tavares after towns in that state. I am growing the last two of these. Both varieties produce very ornamental plants which fruit prolifically. One article I have read recently suggested that genetic investigation pointed to Tavares being a lemon x kumquat hybrid. Its shape and colour seems to confirm that suggestion. http://www.saalfelds.freeserve.co.uk/uncommon1.htm ------------------- Family: Rutaceae Tribe: Subgroup: Hybrids Species kind: Limequat (Classification of Tanaka) ( Citrus aurantifolia (Christm.) Swing. X Fortunella sp. ) www.corse.inra.fr/sra/30100614.htm Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: jp.bernard@vivelejardin.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 06:25:07 -0700 (MST) > >I'm looking for the latin name of the LIMEQUAT. > >Thanks for your help. > >JPB > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Mar 19 13:54:39 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 13:54:39 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] limequat Message-ID: A check of the web found this: There are three varieties of Limequat, resulting from different crosses between Citrus aurantifolia and Fortunella. They were produced in Florida, USA, and named Lakeland, Eustis and Tavares after towns in that state. I am growing the last two of these. Both varieties produce very ornamental plants which fruit prolifically. One article I have read recently suggested that genetic investigation pointed to Tavares being a lemon x kumquat hybrid. Its shape and colour seems to confirm that suggestion. http://www.saalfelds.freeserve.co.uk/uncommon1.htm ------------------- Family: Rutaceae Tribe: Subgroup: Hybrids Species kind: Limequat (Classification of Tanaka) ( Citrus aurantifolia (Christm.) Swing. X Fortunella sp. ) www.corse.inra.fr/sra/30100614.htm Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: jp.bernard@vivelejardin.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 06:25:07 -0700 (MST) > >I'm looking for the latin name of the LIMEQUAT. > >Thanks for your help. > >JPB > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From Pabaferd@juno.com Tue Mar 19 18:33:50 2002 From: Pabaferd@juno.com (Pabaferd@juno.com) Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 11:33:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203191833.g2JIXog17632@Ag.arizona.edu> Can you recommend bushes for a crushed stone landscaping that are not "messy"...i.e. do not drop a lot of leaves, seed pods, etc. Thank you. Barbara Ferdinand From lmmcalister@msn.com Tue Mar 19 19:06:37 2002 From: lmmcalister@msn.com (lmmcalister@msn.com) Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 12:06:37 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203191906.g2JJ6bg24603@Ag.arizona.edu> Crab grass or nut grass has taken over my yard. Suggestions, other than pulling? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Mar 19 20:39:43 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 20:39:43 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] crabgrass and nut grass Message-ID: THe best defense is to create and maintain a healthy lawn. Dense turf will crowd out and shade out weeds. Crabgrass is primarily an annual. You can treat the turf with a pre-emergent to prevent seed germination. Examples are Betasan and Dacthal -- check with your local nursery for pre-emergent herbicides. To control emerged crabgrass use an herbicide such as DSMA. Carefully follow label directions; you will probably need repeated applications. Nutgrass is actually a sedge rather than a grass. It is a tough perennial that spreads by seeds, runers and tubers (nutlets). It is very difficult to irradicate once established. Use a foliar applied, translocation type herhicide such as Roundup. However, these herbicides will also kill the turf, fo they must be selectively applied to the nutgrass. Repeat applications are usually required. Linda Drew Masater Gardener >From: lmmcalister@msn.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 12:06:37 -0700 (MST) > >Crab grass or nut grass has taken over my yard. Suggestions, other than >pulling? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Mar 19 23:12:03 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 18:12:03 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Shrubs for desert landscape Message-ID: --part1_cf.14381538.29c91fc3_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Barbara, All plants drop their leaves at some time, deciduous plants drop their leaves all at one time in the fall of the year whereas evergreen plants will drop their leaves throughout the year a few at a time. Sorry but there is no such thing as a plant that does not drop its leaves , flowers or seeds at some time. Fortunately there are some plants that are less messy. Three evergreen shrubs that are probably less messy than some others that I particully like are Texas Ranger, Natal Plum and Rosemary. All are very drought tolerant and do well in our hot summers. Texas Ranger flowers with pink to lavender blooms depending on the cultivar, grows to a height of 8 feet with gray green foliage, dwarf varieties are available. Natal Plum grows from 2 to 6 feet tall depending on the cultivar with dark green leaves and has white flowers with red fruit which is edible. Rosemary grows from 2 to 6 feet tall with dark gray green foliage and has blue flowers. A great place to view these plants growing plus many many others is the Desert Botanical Garden in Scottsdale. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_cf.14381538.29c91fc3_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Barbara,

All plants drop their leaves at some time, deciduous plants drop their leaves all at one time in the fall of the year whereas evergreen plants will drop their leaves throughout the year a few at a time. Sorry but there is no such thing as a plant that does not drop its leaves , flowers or seeds at some time. Fortunately there are some plants that are less messy.

Three evergreen shrubs that are probably less messy than some others that I particully like are Texas Ranger, Natal Plum and Rosemary. All are very drought tolerant and do well in our hot summers. Texas Ranger flowers with pink to lavender blooms depending on the cultivar, grows to a height of 8 feet with gray green foliage, dwarf varieties are available. Natal Plum grows from 2 to 6 feet tall depending on the cultivar with dark green leaves and has white flowers with red fruit which is edible. Rosemary grows from 2 to 6 feet tall with dark gray green foliage and has blue flowers.

A great place to view these plants growing plus many many others is the Desert Botanical Garden in Scottsdale.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener

--part1_cf.14381538.29c91fc3_boundary-- From Jonathan Kandell" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C1CF46.84F825C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Found this interesting experimental arid farm/garden in Spain. They're doing some interesting experiments with underground greenhouses, composting pits, and water harvesting. They use irrigation channels built in Moorish times! jk http://www.rodcuff.demon.co.uk/sunseed/rgardens.htm ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C1CF46.84F825C0 Content-Type: application/octet-stream; name="Sunseed Our gardens and gardening.url" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="Sunseed Our gardens and gardening.url" [DEFAULT] BASEURL=http://www.rodcuff.demon.co.uk/sunseed/rgardens.htm [InternetShortcut] URL=http://www.rodcuff.demon.co.uk/sunseed/rgardens.htm Modified=40B642C280CFC1010B ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C1CF46.84F825C0-- From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Wed Mar 20 03:28:29 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 19:28:29 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question crabgrass/nutgrass In-Reply-To: <200203191906.g2JJ6bg24603@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20020320032829.89727.qmail@web14914.mail.yahoo.com> Crab grass is an annual that can be treated with a herbicide. If you don't have a winter lawn, do it now while your summer lawn is still dormant. In the fall next year, treat soil with a preemergent to prevent crab grass seed from germinating.Spraying now with a winter lawn will kill your rye but in a short time the Bermuda will be coming out of dormancy and shouldn't matter. Nutgrass is a totally different animal.Tough to kill. The only thing Ive found to work is MANAGE by monsanto. Some times more than one application is needed and its not cheap. Good luck --- lmmcalister@msn.com wrote: > Crab grass or nut grass has taken over my yard. > Suggestions, other than pulling? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Sports - live college hoops coverage http://sports.yahoo.com/ From Jonathan Kandell" The Chinaberry tree, popular in arid zones of the US, is related to the Neem tree, which is used as an insecticide all over India and Africa. I was wondering if anyone has experimented with using Chinaberry seeds to deter insects? jk From s2@auroranow.org Wed Mar 20 15:17:51 2002 From: s2@auroranow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 08:17:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Chinaberry as an insecticide? References: <000b01c1d020$1f290f40$f5930b3f@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <3C98A81F.93A8CC5E@auroranow.org> > The Chinaberry tree, popular in arid zones of the US, is related to the Neem > tree, which is used as an insecticide all over India and Africa. I was > wondering if anyone has experimented with using Chinaberry seeds to deter > insects? > I don't have a Chinaberry tree, but I have an abundance of wild desert tobacco here on our five acres, and I'll "steep" a 'tobacco tea' in the sun and the concoction has proven to be a great insecticide. -- Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. Vice President, Communications & Technology ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org ===================================================== "I became convinced we are here for each other." -- R. Buckminster Fuller From mishelle@usscreen.com Wed Mar 20 16:43:46 2002 From: mishelle@usscreen.com (Mishelle Fresener) Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 09:43:46 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] LOTS of ants in my compost? Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20020320094044.01e2f150@mail.usscreen.com> Hello all, My compost bin has been over run with ants. Not just a couple of ants, but a BOAT LOAD! They are everywhere. I know that they can be helpful but I really don't want to put all of those ants in my garden. I had a big problem last year with them eating all of the flowers off of my Yard Long Beans. Any ideas, comments??........ Thanks, Mishelle From boofie@bigfoot.com Wed Mar 20 17:53:09 2002 From: boofie@bigfoot.com (Jessica Boof Sizemore) Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 09:53:09 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Xpost Message-ID: <20020320175309.64334.qmail@web10008.mail.yahoo.com> This is cross posted with permission. Boof <> ===== Tucson, Az __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Sports - live college hoops coverage http://sports.yahoo.com/ From sdsteinh@aol.com Wed Mar 20 18:12:38 2002 From: sdsteinh@aol.com (sdsteinh@aol.com) Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 11:12:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203201812.g2KICcg02132@Ag.arizona.edu> Hi, I would like to know if I should prune my desert Ironwood tree. The last time I pruned it was 2 years ago and it is quite thick. I have heard different opionions on this so need to know. Also is there a list of certified tree trimmmers for desert trees? Thanks, Sharon Steinhauer Queen Creek From kmoore@Ag.arizona.edu Wed Mar 20 20:13:30 2002 From: kmoore@Ag.arizona.edu (Kathleen Moore) Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 13:13:30 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Real Gardens for Real People Garden Tour Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020320130451.00b202e0@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_17454669==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Real Gardens for Real People March 30, 9:00 a.m. - 3:00 p.m., $10/person, Maricopa County Cooperative Extension office, Join local master gardeners on this educational tour of five master gardener gardens: 1. The Cactus Garden (cacti and succulents) 2. The Edible Garden (herbs, fruits and vegetables), 3. The Shade Garden (pond and shade loving plants) 4. The Xeriscape Garden (native and low water use plants) 5. The Flower Garden (annuals, perennials and wildflowers) All gardens are located in the Mesa, Chandler and Gilbert areas. Educational talks and materials on trees and other garden topics will be available at each garden so you can go home and enhance your own garden! The price includes entry to all five gardens. Tickets must be purchased prior to the event through the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension office, their satellite offices or local nurseries. No tickets will be sold at the individual gardens. Call or visit for more information: 602-470-1556 x1017 http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ Hope to see you all there! --=====================_17454669==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
Real Gardens for Real People

March 30, 9:00 a.m. - 3:00 p.m., $10/person, Maricopa County Cooperative Extension office,

Join local master gardeners on this educational tour of five master gardener gardens:
1. The Cactus Garden (cacti and succulents)
2. The Edible Garden (herbs, fruits and vegetables),
3. The Shade Garden (pond and shade loving plants)
4. The Xeriscape Garden (native and low water use plants)
5. The Flower Garden (annuals, perennials and wildflowers)

All gardens are located in the Mesa, Chandler and Gilbert areas.  Educational talks and materials on trees and other garden topics will be available at each garden so you can go home and enhance your own garden!  The price includes entry to all five gardens.  Tickets must be purchased prior to the event through the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension office, their satellite offices or local nurseries.  No tickets will be sold at the individual gardens.

Call or visit for more information:
602-470-1556 x1017
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/

Hope to see you all there!

--=====================_17454669==_.ALT-- From sundown36@addressisp.com Thu Mar 21 00:50:29 2002 From: sundown36@addressisp.com (sundown36@addressisp.com) Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 17:50:29 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203210050.g2L0oTg26215@Ag.arizona.edu> how do i keep the fruit on a tangelo tree it falls off after it is the size of a pea From Jonathan Kandell" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0045_01C1D056.88BDF5C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I wonder if Chinaberry "cakes" would have a similar N,P,K... if so they'd make an excellent organic fertilizer. http://www.plasmaneem.com/neempro.htm ------=_NextPart_000_0045_01C1D056.88BDF5C0 Content-Type: application/octet-stream; name="Plasma Neem Cake.url" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="Plasma Neem Cake.url" [DEFAULT] BASEURL=http://www.plasmaneem.com/neempro.htm [InternetShortcut] URL=http://www.plasmaneem.com/neempro.htm Modified=8017EC1A91D0C101C0 ------=_NextPart_000_0045_01C1D056.88BDF5C0-- From kdouglas@primenet.com Thu Mar 21 13:42:30 2002 From: kdouglas@primenet.com (kdouglas@primenet.com) Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 06:42:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203211342.g2LDgUg19164@Ag.arizona.edu> What vines can take full sun, are evergreen (look nice in winter and summer) and don't attract too many bees? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Mar 21 13:46:43 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 13:46:43 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus, fruit dropping Message-ID: Some fruit drop is natural "thinning" by the tree. A young tree (in the ground less than 3-4 years) may not produce a crop because of its age. If neither of these fits your situation, I would look at irrigation schedules. As fruit begins to develop and temperatures rise, the water needs for a citrus tree increase dramatically. For example, an orange tree about 6 feet in diamter needs about one gallon of water per day in February and 4 gallons per day in May. You can view an excellent publication on irrigating citrus at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: sundown36@addressisp.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 17:50:29 -0700 (MST) > >how do i keep the fruit on a tangelo tree >it falls off after it is the size of a pea > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Mar 21 13:57:46 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 13:57:46 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning, ironwood tree Message-ID: Eric Johnson's book, "Pruning, Planting and Care", is an excellent source of information on desert tree care. His recommendation: "Trees are long lived and seldom experience pruning problems because growth is relatively slow. It is also a tree that develops its own attractive form without needing much guidance. Provide with well-draining soil. A self-fertilizing legume." If the tree was incorrectly pruned two years ago, I would suggest checking the yellow pages for a "Certified Tree Arborist" who specializes in native trees. Talk to several and get advice from other experts. Call the U. of A. Extension at (602) 470-8086 for a Phoenix listing. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: sdsteinh@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 11:12:38 -0700 (MST) > >Hi, I would like to know if I should prune my desert Ironwood tree. The >last time I pruned it was 2 years ago and it is quite thick. I have heard >different opionions on this so need to know. Also is there a list of >certified tree trimmmers for desert trees? > >Thanks, Sharon Steinhauer >Queen Creek > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From agarcia@azleg.state.az.us Thu Mar 21 17:33:50 2002 From: agarcia@azleg.state.az.us (agarcia@azleg.state.az.us) Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 10:33:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203211733.g2LHXog04188@Ag.arizona.edu> i recently purchased a small rubber plant from a local nursery. what care does a rubber plant need. i.e., sun vs. shade fertilization and how big do they get? thanks. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Mar 21 21:29:20 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 16:29:20 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning Message-ID: <192.41dee3f.29cbaab0@aol.com> --part1_192.41dee3f.29cbaab0_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Sharon, One should have a purpose and a plan in mind before doing any pruning otherwise don't prune. The Master Gardener Manual has an excellent chapter on pruning and is available on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/pruning/index.html The following site will give you a list of Certified Arborists: http://www2.champaign.isa-arbor.com/arborists/arborist.html Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_192.41dee3f.29cbaab0_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Sharon,

One should have a purpose and a plan in mind before doing any pruning otherwise don't prune.

The Master Gardener Manual has an excellent chapter on pruning and is available on line at:  http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/pruning/index.html

The following site will give you a list of Certified Arborists:  http://www2.champaign.isa-arbor.com/arborists/arborist.html


Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
--part1_192.41dee3f.29cbaab0_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Mar 21 22:24:02 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 17:24:02 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rubber Plant Message-ID: --part1_b6.87da0db.29cbb782_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit There are several species of the rubber plant, some that are grown only indoors. The outdoor species can grow to 40 feet tall, in Hawaii they grow to 80 feet. Here in the low desert they should be planted where they have partial to full shade and where they have some shelter for they are frost tender. They would be classed as moderate to high water use. Once a year would be adequate for fertilization. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_b6.87da0db.29cbb782_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit There are several species of the rubber plant, some that are grown only indoors. The outdoor species can grow to 40 feet tall, in Hawaii they grow to 80 feet. Here in the low desert they should be planted where they have partial to full shade and where they have some shelter for they are frost tender. They would be classed as moderate to high water use.
Once a year would be adequate for fertilization.

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_b6.87da0db.29cbb782_boundary-- From penelopie@att.net Thu Mar 21 22:59:41 2002 From: penelopie@att.net (penelopie@att.net) Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 15:59:41 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203212259.g2LMxfg14802@Ag.arizona.edu> I have several patches on my lawn that are brown I cut into my lawn 2 inch deep(in each patch), the soil had good texture but I have ground pearl (scale). But not in all spots. Some spots the soil is very sandy (it wasn't this way before)but I din't see pearl. I did see tiny snail shells about twice the size of a pin head.And I did have a virus last year. Could I have more than one thing going on? And what do I do to solve this problem and care afterwards. Tina From umiller@azdps.com Thu Mar 21 23:31:54 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 16:31:54 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Evergreen Vines In-Reply-To: <200203211342.g2LDgUg19164@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: One very nice non-polluting vine is hardenbergia, which is available right now in most home stores and nurseries. It does not attract bees and has no fragrance. It's green all the time and grows fast. This time of year it has large clusters of small purple flowers - looks a little like wisteria. It needs regular watering. I have mine on a dripper system. You can also go to this site: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener and type in vines and search. That way you'll see previous discussions about vines and their merits. Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of kdouglas@primenet.com Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2002 6:43 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What vines can take full sun, are evergreen (look nice in winter and summer) and don't attract too many bees? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From umiller@azdps.com Thu Mar 21 23:31:56 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 16:31:56 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Blue Hibiscus flowers In-Reply-To: <002e01c1ce8a$f664e2a0$d68c85ce@oemcomputer> Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01C1D0F5.EA6C1000 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit What is ‘almost as soon as they bloom’? The flowers on these plants don’t stay long on the bush. I have had my blue hibiscus for years and it’s in great bloom right now. But the blooms only stay on for a couple of days. They drop and new ones bloom. So you have flowers for a fairly long time, but each individual flower doesn’t last long. (Also makes quite a pile of dried parchment-like flowers collecting under the bush.) Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Renea Ford Sent: Monday, March 18, 2002 7:41 AM To: Master Gardener Subject: [Arid_gardener] Blue Hibiscus flowers A significant number of purple flowers on my Blue Hibiscus (Alyogyne huegelii) are drying up from their outside edges inward almost as soon as they bloom, i.e., crinkling and turning dark blue, like fine, parched paper. Are they low on water, or lacking a nutrient? Their exposure (N, S, E, W) doesn't seem to matter. I'm at 2500 feet. Any ideas? Thank you, Renea ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01C1D0F5.EA6C1000 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Wh= at is ‘almost as soon as they bloom’?  The flowers on these plants don’t stay long on the = bush.  I have had my blue hibiscus = for years and it’s in great bloom right now.  But the blooms only stay on for a couple of days.  They drop and new ones = bloom.   So you have flowers for = a fairly long time, but each individual flower doesn’t last long.  (Also makes quite a pile of = dried parchment-like flowers collecting under the bush.)

 

Ursula Miller

Not = a Master Gardener

<= span class=3DEmailStyle16> 

-----Original Message-----
From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu = [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Renea Ford
Sent: Monday, March 18, = 2002 7:41 AM
To: Master Gardener
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Blue Hibiscus flowers

 

A = significant number of purple flowers on my Blue Hibiscus (Alyogyne huegelii) are = drying up from their outside edges inward almost as soon as they bloom, i.e., crinkling and turning dark blue, like fine, parched = paper.  Are they low on water, or lacking a nutrient?  Their exposure (N, = S, E, W) doesn't seem to matter.  I'm at 2500 feet.  Any = ideas?

 

Thank you,

Renea

------=_NextPart_000_0014_01C1D0F5.EA6C1000-- From lhubers@valleytel.net Fri Mar 22 02:50:19 2002 From: lhubers@valleytel.net (lhubers@valleytel.net) Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 19:50:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203220250.g2M2oIg18346@Ag.arizona.edu> Where can we find a picture of the plant crown of thorns? From sjbass@qwest.net Fri Mar 22 04:49:59 2002 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 21:49:59 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Photo of "Crown of thorns" plant References: <200203220250.g2M2oIg18346@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C9AB7F6.DAB386A5@qwest.net> http://www.desert-tropicals.com/Plants/Euphorbiaceae/Euphorbia_milii.html the above link will take you to one site with a close-up photo of the plant, along with information about it. Sue Bass lhubers@valleytel.net wrote: > Where can we find a picture of the plant crown of thorns? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From j.wildenbud@worldnet.att.net Fri Mar 22 21:27:56 2002 From: j.wildenbud@worldnet.att.net (j.wildenbud@worldnet.att.net) Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 14:27:56 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203222127.g2MLRug06276@Ag.arizona.edu> I want to grow sweet potatoes,last year I bought plants that did not grow(got them to late.) Can I take sweet potatoes and cut them up,root them, and use those or where do I find plants here in az. Thanks June From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Mar 22 22:05:41 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 22:05:41 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sweet potatoes Message-ID: I have not grown sweet potatoes myself, but George Brookbank's book, Desert Gardening, suggests buying a sweet potato from the the grocery store in late January-early February. Root the potato; in April separate the rooted shoots into small pots of soil for a week or two until planted in the garden in May. Brookbank also says you may be able to find rooted cuttings in the nurseries and even in seed catalogs at planting time, which is May. This information is for Tucson; might be shifted back a month if youe are growing in Phoenix. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: j.wildenbud@worldnet.att.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 14:27:56 -0700 (MST) > >I want to grow sweet potatoes,last year I bought plants that did not >grow(got them to late.) Can I take sweet potatoes and cut them up,root >them, and use those or where do I find plants here in az. Thanks June > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Mar 22 22:25:17 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 17:25:17 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf with brown patches Message-ID: <158.af84c2a.29cd094d@aol.com> --part1_158.af84c2a.29cd094d_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit First I need to know whether the brown patches are currently in your overseeded rye grass or did they occur in your summer grass and when. If the brown patches are in your rye grass, chances are good that the cause is lack of adequate irrigation, or it could be a carry over from last fall when the rye was over seeded. Because of the high temperatures in late fall last year the bermuda did not go into dormancy when it was supposed to and kept on growing vigorously after the rye was overseeded making it difficult for the rye to become established thus causing brown spots. If the brown spots were seen in your bermuda last summer then pearl scale or other insects could be the cause. Most insects that cause problems in turf are inactive in the winter. With more info I can be more specific. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_158.af84c2a.29cd094d_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit First I need to know whether the brown patches are currently in your overseeded rye grass or did they occur in your summer grass and when. If the brown patches are in your rye grass, chances are good that the cause is lack of adequate irrigation, or it could be a carry over from last fall when the rye was over seeded. Because of the high temperatures in late fall last year the bermuda did not go into dormancy when it was supposed to and kept on growing vigorously after the rye was overseeded making it difficult for the rye to become established thus causing brown spots.
If the brown spots were seen in your bermuda last summer then pearl scale or other insects could be the cause. Most insects that cause problems in turf are inactive in the winter.
With more info I can be more specific.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_158.af84c2a.29cd094d_boundary-- From Jonathan Kandell" Message-ID: <004d01c1d1f2$48937a40$7239bbd0@oemcomputer> June, not sure what city you're in, but I successfully grew tons of sweet potatoes in Tucson last year. I started with one potato and stuck half of it in a jar of water held up by toothpicks until it rooted and started growing shoots. When the vines coming out were about 8" long, I chipped off individual shoots to plant, including a bit of potato with each individual vine. I didn't root each shoot in soil the way Brookbank suggests, but simply planted the shoot in the ground with 6" of stem is beneath the soil, and it worked fine. (Sweet potato will readily root, you can in fact use old vines to generate new ones.) In Tucson you plant in May or early June. You harvest them in the fall when most of the vines have died, around October in Tucson. Digging them up is a pain, you have to be careful not to cut and bruise the potatoes. Make sure your soil is not hard or clumpy or you'll regret it. They need to "cure" after you pick them, getting sweeter as they age in a dark place with time for at least a month. They grow wonderfully in the desert, by the way, spreading all over the place. I'm even thinking of using them for green manure this year. The main downside is they take up a lot of garden for a long time. jk ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, March 22, 2002 2:27 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I want to grow sweet potatoes,last year I bought plants that did not grow(got them to late.) Can I take sweet potatoes and cut them up,root them, and use those or where do I find plants here in az. Thanks June > From bradleyl@Ag.arizona.edu Fri Mar 22 22:54:16 2002 From: bradleyl@Ag.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 15:54:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] New Roof Rats Publication is out! Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020322155335.01c19740@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_25062327==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Greetings! The new "Roof Rat" publication from the University of Arizona is now up online. http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/insects/az1280.pdf In this publication state specialist Larry Sullivan has explained how to identify roof rats, how to prevent roof rats, how to modify the habitat to keep from attracting roof rats, how to exclude, how to trap, as well as how to use poison baits. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ --=====================_25062327==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Greetings!

The new "Roof Rat" publication from the University of Arizona is now up online.

http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/insects/az1280.pdf

In this publication state specialist Larry Sullivan has explained how to identify roof rats, how to prevent roof rats, how to modify the habitat to keep from attracting roof rats, how to exclude, how to trap, as well as how to use poison baits.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ  85040-8807

Phone:  (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax:  (602) 470-8092
email:  BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ  85040-8807

Phone:  (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax:  (602) 470-8092
email:  BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu

--=====================_25062327==_.ALT-- From tletham@gps-made-easy.com Sat Mar 23 02:25:33 2002 From: tletham@gps-made-easy.com (tletham@gps-made-easy.com) Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 19:25:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203230225.g2N2PXg18717@Ag.arizona.edu> We have flood irrigated acre in Gilbert. MOst of the yard requires mowing. We would like to figure out how to reduce the maintenance. Where can we get some help with ideas? From mnop44@yahoo.com Sat Mar 23 14:25:54 2002 From: mnop44@yahoo.com (mnop44@yahoo.com) Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 07:25:54 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203231425.g2NEPsg18797@Ag.arizona.edu> How do you trim citrus trees? From j.wildenbud@worldnet.att.net Sat Mar 23 17:38:47 2002 From: j.wildenbud@worldnet.att.net (june wilde) Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 09:38:47 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] sweet potatoes Message-ID: <003401c1d292$39026140$0e41530c@hh98u> Thanks for the info on growing sweet potatoes,gotta get started real quick, thanks for the quick response. June Wilde From j.wildenbud@worldnet.att.net Sat Mar 23 17:40:23 2002 From: j.wildenbud@worldnet.att.net (june wilde) Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 09:40:23 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] for jonathan Kandell Message-ID: <003501c1d292$3a953640$0e41530c@hh98u> Thanks for the information, I know its a little late, but will try your method, again thanks for the quick response. June From umiller@azdps.com Sat Mar 23 16:30:34 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 09:30:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning Citrus In-Reply-To: <200203231425.g2NEPsg18797@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Very little. Go to this site: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener and type pruning citrus or other variations of this topic and search on previous discussions about pruning citrus trees. You can use this for searching on all sorts of other topics, too. I hope this helps. Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of mnop44@yahoo.com Sent: Saturday, March 23, 2002 7:26 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How do you trim citrus trees? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From umiller@azdps.com Sat Mar 23 16:46:00 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 09:46:00 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lavender Bush White Gooey Stuff Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C1D24F.8A772D00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit I have a very large lavender bush that is blooming and looks great. But it has white gooey stuff on many of the stems. I’ve been hosing it off, but it keeps coming back at ever larger amounts. Is this (whatever it is) going to suck the juice out of the bush or is it harmless and I can just leave it alone? It’s on no other bush or plant – just this lavender bush. Ursula Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C1D24F.8A772D00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I have a very large = lavender bush that is blooming and looks great. =A0But it has white gooey stuff on many of the stems.=A0 I=92ve been hosing it off, but it keeps coming back at ever = larger amounts.=A0 Is this (whatever = it is) going to suck the juice out of the bush or is it harmless and I can just leave = it alone?=A0 =A0It=92s on no other bush or plant =96 just this lavender = bush.

 

Ursula Miller

 <= /p>

------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C1D24F.8A772D00-- From Azgrandma2@juno.com Sat Mar 23 17:39:16 2002 From: Azgrandma2@juno.com (Azgrandma2@juno.com) Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 10:39:16 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203231739.g2NHdGg02843@Ag.arizona.edu> I am planning on planting a tree in my backyard. It faces west. I am looking for a tree that will provide shade and have little upkeep. Any Suggestions welcome. Thank You From khmesa@cs.com Sat Mar 23 18:47:42 2002 From: khmesa@cs.com (khmesa@cs.com) Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 11:47:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203231847.g2NIlgg09096@Ag.arizona.edu> My hibiscus are blooming and getting new leaves but they have allot of yellow leaves. I fertilized them about a month ago with miracle grow and started watering them twice weekly. What can I do to get rid of the yellowing leaves? From Beverlyfz@aol.com Sat Mar 23 20:05:28 2002 From: Beverlyfz@aol.com (Beverlyfz@aol.com) Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 15:05:28 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Free Goat Manure Message-ID: Fellow Gardeners - I have friends a couple of miles south of Gilbert who have tons of goat manure free for the hauling. Take your shovel and containers. Those big black trash bags are great for keeping your truck bed or car trunk clean, or fill up your truck. The really cool thing about goat manure is it is so easy to handle. Call 480-963-6944 for directions to their place. Beverly Fizzell From MIMJAC@aol.com Sat Mar 23 20:42:47 2002 From: MIMJAC@aol.com (MIMJAC@aol.com) Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 15:42:47 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] gardening Message-ID: <73.1ce42d31.29ce42c7@aol.com> Hello, I am so glad I found your Web site .I have been gardening for years in Northern IL. and have a house being built in Mesa. I will be down there come June for good and I can tell the desert soil is so much different than up north. I hope to learn from these e mails and books I have bought. Thank you, Jack from Waukegan,IL From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Sat Mar 23 21:02:34 2002 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 14:02:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] publications References: <73.1ce42d31.29ce42c7@aol.com> Message-ID: <017001c1d2ae$0f24d8a0$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> Hi Jack, I moved here from Illinois 1 1/2 years ago--you will love it here. Like you, I did not know anything about gardening here in the low desert so I joined the Master Gardener program. If you have the time, I would encourage you take the course also. There are two excellent books available from the Maricopa Extension Office that might be of interest to you.. Desert Landscaping for Beginners, ISBN 0-9651987-3-1, http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/dsrtlnsc.htm for questions about: Choosing plants wisely Planting/preparing the hole Watering Pruning Frost protection Seasonal pest descriptions Diagnosing plant problems Cacti & succulents Growing wildflowers Creating a wildlife habitat Roses Citrus Turf (amazing amount of detail on lawns in the low desert!) Desert Gardening for Beginners, ISBN 0-9651987-2-3 http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/dsrtgdn.htm for questions about: Vegetable, flower or herb gardening Improving soils in garden beds How to make compost Watering containers Planting calendars/when to plant cool and warm season crops The links listed will give you additional information about each publication as well as how to obtain them. Scott Rogers MG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Cc: Sent: Saturday, March 23, 2002 1:42 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] gardening > Hello, > I am so glad I found your Web site .I have been gardening for years in > Northern IL. and have a house being built in Mesa. I will be down there come > June for good and I can tell the desert soil is so much different than up > north. I hope to learn from these e mails and books I have bought. > Thank you, > Jack from > Waukegan,IL > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Mar 23 22:05:28 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 17:05:28 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grass to Xeriscape Message-ID: <13f.b796f1d.29ce5628@aol.com> --part1_13f.b796f1d.29ce5628_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I f you live in Gilbert call your town's water conservation office, they will have several color brochures with ideas on what a xeriscape yard can look like and the info is free. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_13f.b796f1d.29ce5628_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I f you live in Gilbert call your town's water conservation office, they will have several color brochures with ideas on what a xeriscape yard can look like and the info is free.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener  
--part1_13f.b796f1d.29ce5628_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Mar 23 22:05:54 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 17:05:54 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Shade tree Message-ID: --part1_b9.1dbaf2a0.29ce5642_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 has a bulletin titled Trees for Maricopa County availabl;e for $1.00 which has a description of each tree. Other great resources are the books WESTERN GARDEN BOOK and PLANTS FOR DRY CLIMATES by Duffield and Jones available at your library or book store and or nursery. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_b9.1dbaf2a0.29ce5642_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 has a bulletin titled Trees for Maricopa County availabl;e for $1.00 which has a description of each tree.
Other great resources are the books WESTERN GARDEN BOOK and PLANTS FOR DRY CLIMATES by Duffield and Jones available at your library or book store and or nursery.

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_b9.1dbaf2a0.29ce5642_boundary-- From umiller@azdps.com Sat Mar 23 23:13:40 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 16:13:40 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Yellow Hibiscus Leaves In-Reply-To: <200203231847.g2NIlgg09096@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: I run into this problem, too, and it's usually an iron deficiency. Find some chelated iron in a nursery or home store, follow the instructions for application and then gradually the new leaves will be green. I have to do this periodically with all my hibiscus plants. Also, for more information on hibiscus or any other plants and problems, try checking out http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener Type in a word like hibiscus and search on it. You'll find previous discussions on the topic. This is a handy way to find answers to gardening problems. Good luck! Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener, but a Hibiscus Lover -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of khmesa@cs.com Sent: Saturday, March 23, 2002 11:48 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My hibiscus are blooming and getting new leaves but they have allot of yellow leaves. I fertilized them about a month ago with miracle grow and started watering them twice weekly. What can I do to get rid of the yellowing leaves? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Lokibaho@hotmail.com Sun Mar 24 00:59:12 2002 From: Lokibaho@hotmail.com (Lokibaho@hotmail.com) Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 17:59:12 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203240059.g2O0xCg09412@Ag.arizona.edu> I remember a friend telling me about a way to naturally make this dusty AZ dirt into good gardening soil by just planting a certain crop, turning it under then planting a different crop and turning that under...etc. Could you please give me some guidance in this? From umiller@azdps.com Sun Mar 24 04:25:15 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 21:25:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mexico Pete Mark Mittelstaedt Message Message-ID: Mark - My message to your e-mail at worldnet is coming back undeliverable. Maybe I can get you this way. It's in response to the message in the white goo on my lavendar plant. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: MAILER-DAEMON@server2.cybertrails.com [mailto:MAILER-DAEMON@server2.cybertrails.com] Sent: Saturday, March 23, 2002 4:35 PM To: umiller@azdps.com Subject: failure notice Hi. This is the qmail-send program at server2.cybertrails.com. I'm afraid I wasn't able to deliver your message to the following addresses. This is a permanent error; I've given up. Sorry it didn't work out. : 204.127.134.23 does not like recipient. Remote host said: 550 Invalid recipient: Giving up on 204.127.134.23. --- Below this line is a copy of the message. Return-Path: Received: (qmail 27287 invoked from network); 23 Mar 2002 23:35:10 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO 4qa8c) ([162.42.8.125]) (envelope-sender ) by server2.front (qmail-ldap-1.03) with SMTP for ; 23 Mar 2002 23:35:10 -0000 From: "Ursula Miller" To: "Mark Mittelstaedt" Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] Lavender Bush White Gooey Stuff Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 16:27:24 -0700 Message-ID: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0008_01C1D287.9D1806E0" X-Priority: 3 (Normal) X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook IMO, Build 9.0.2416 (9.0.2910.0) X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200 Importance: Normal In-Reply-To: <001601c1d28e$6325dfa0$6382dd18@az.sprintbbd.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C1D287.9D1806E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Mark - I just broke off a twig and it's not the same at all. The twig has green juices and this substance is white. It's only in the areas where the stems come out of the greenery or either at the bottom where it's bushy or closer to the top of the stem where there is also a little bit of greenery, like a little green leafy collar around the stem. It's white and milky. I remember this happening last year, too, and I just kept hosing it off. But the bush is so big this year, that it takes a LOT of hosing now. I suppose I should just let it go and see what happens. One thing about this bush - the bees love it - but I doubt that they have anything to do with this. Now that I think of it, I think that I had this kind of white substance on my rosemary bushes last year, too, though at a different time of year. The bees buzz around that, too. Is it bee poop? (Only kidding.) Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: Mark Mittelstaedt [mailto:mexicopete@worldnet.att.net] Sent: Saturday, March 23, 2002 10:16 AM To: Ursula Miller Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Lavender Bush White Gooey Stuff Sometimes real healthy plants exude substances, and this time of year, the sap is runnin ! Why don't you break off a twig and see if the gooey stuff resembles the natural fluids in the stem. When I cut daffodils, for example, there is a milky sap where I cut. Let me know what you get - I'll bust a twig on my own lavender, which, so far, is fairly quiet. ----- Original Message ----- From: Ursula Miller To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Sent: Saturday, March 23, 2002 9:46 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lavender Bush White Gooey Stuff I have a very large lavender bush that is blooming and looks great. But it has white gooey stuff on many of the stems. I've been hosing it off, but it keeps coming back at ever larger amounts. Is this (whatever it is) going to suck the juice out of the bush or is it harmless and I can just leave it alone? It's on no other bush or plant - just this lavender bush. Ursula Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C1D287.9D1806E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Mark =96

 

I just broke off a twig and it=92s not the = same at all.=A0 The twig has green = juices and this substance is white.=A0 It=92s = only in the areas where the stems come out of the greenery or either at the bottom = where it=92s bushy or closer to the top of the stem where there is also a little bit = of greenery, like a little green leafy collar around the stem.=A0 It=92s white and milky.=A0 I remember this happening last year, too, and I just kept hosing it = off.=A0 But the bush is so big this year, = that it takes a LOT of hosing now.=A0 =

 

I suppose I should just let it go and see = what happens.=A0 =

 

One thing about this bush =96 the bees love = it =96 but I doubt that they have anything to do with this.=A0=A0

 

Now that I think of it, I think that I had = this kind of white substance on my rosemary bushes last year, too, though at a = different time of year.=A0 The bees buzz = around that, too.=A0 Is it bee = poop?=A0 (Only kidding.) =

 

Ursula Miller

<= span class=3DEmailStyle19> 

-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Mittelstaedt [mailto:mexicopete@worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Saturday, March 23, = 2002 10:16 AM
To: Ursula Miller
Subject: Re: = [Arid_gardener] Lavender Bush White Gooey Stuff

 

Sometimes real healthy plants exude substances, and this = time of year, the sap is runnin ! Why don't you break off a twig and see if the = gooey stuff resembles the

natural fluids in the stem. When I cut daffodils, for = example, there is a milky sap

where I cut. Let me know what you get - I'll bust a twig on = my own lavender, which, so far, is fairly quiet.

----- Original = Message -----

To:= arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu

Sent: = Saturday, March 23, 2002 9:46 AM

Subject: = [Arid_gardener] Lavender Bush White Gooey Stuff

 

I have a very large lavender bush that is blooming and looks great.=A0 But it has white = gooey stuff on many of the stems.=A0 I=92ve = been hosing it off, but it keeps coming back at ever larger amounts.=A0 Is this (whatever it is) going to suck the juice out of = the bush or is it harmless and I can just leave it alone?=A0=A0 It=92s on no other bush or plant =96 just this = lavender bush.

 

Ursula Miller

 <= /p>

------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C1D287.9D1806E0-- From Jonathan Kandell" Message-ID: <003601c1d2f7$19144b40$6a39bbd0@oemcomputer> I believe crop one is "Miracle Grow" and crop two is "Ironite." jk ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, March 23, 2002 5:59 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I remember a friend telling me about a way to naturally make this dusty AZ dirt into good gardening soil by just planting a certain crop, turning it under then planting a different crop and turning that under...etc. Could you please give me some guidance in this? > From Greg Poole" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0015_01C1D322.D7505740 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have seen a tree in bloom now with lots of fragrant blue flowers in = clusters. Leaves are dark green oval shape about 1 1/2 in long. Can = anyone ID this tree.=20 Thanks ------=_NextPart_000_0015_01C1D322.D7505740 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I have seen a tree in bloom now with = lots of=20 fragrant blue flowers in clusters. Leaves are dark = green   oval shape about 1 1/2 in long. Can anyone = ID this tree.=20
Thanks
------=_NextPart_000_0015_01C1D322.D7505740-- From Greg Poole" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0015_01C1D322.D7505740 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have seen a tree in bloom now with lots of fragrant blue flowers in = clusters. Leaves are dark green oval shape about 1 1/2 in long. Can = anyone ID this tree.=20 Thanks ------=_NextPart_000_0015_01C1D322.D7505740 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I have seen a tree in bloom now with = lots of=20 fragrant blue flowers in clusters. Leaves are dark = green   oval shape about 1 1/2 in long. Can anyone = ID this tree.=20
Thanks
------=_NextPart_000_0015_01C1D322.D7505740-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Mar 24 18:22:20 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 18:22:20 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Texas mountain laurel Message-ID: >From: "Greg Poole" >Reply-To: "Greg Poole" >To: , >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Blue Flowers clusters >Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 10:58:33 -0700 > >I have seen a tree in bloom now with lots of fragrant blue flowers in >clusters. Leaves are dark green oval shape about 1 1/2 in long. Can >anyone ID this tree. >Thanks The tree you describe sounds like Texas Mountain Laurel. (Sophora secundiflora) It is in the legume (bean) family and is well adapted to our area. It has interesting and durable foliage; striking wisteria-like blooms in the spring; strong green color year round. Linda Drew Master Gardener _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Mar 24 18:49:28 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 18:49:28 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] cover crops Message-ID: Your friend might be describing the planting of "cover crops". Cover crops would be sown in October-November; watered and nurtured; then turned back into the soil as green manure-organic matter. Typical cover crops are legumes (nitrogen-fixing plants) such as clovers and vetch and plants that produce a lot of topgrowth (green matter) quickly such as ryegrass, barley, oats and winter rye. I haven't seen cover crops used here; I always thought it was because the winter months are productive crop-growing months here; unlike very cold-winter areas. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Lokibaho@hotmail.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 17:59:12 -0700 (MST) > >I remember a friend telling me about a way to naturally make this dusty AZ >dirt into good gardening soil by just planting a certain crop, turning it >under then planting a different crop and turning that under...etc. Could >you please give me some guidance in this? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Mar 24 18:54:57 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 18:54:57 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] spittle bug Message-ID: Hello, Ursula I'm wondering if you might be describing spittle bugs. These are very small insects that produce a white foamy material to cover and protect themselves ( looks like globs of spit, hence the bug's name). The white material is easily rinsed off with a stream of water and the insects seem to cause no harm. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Ursula Miller" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lavender Bush White Gooey Stuff >Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2002 09:46:00 -0700 > >I have a very large lavender bush that is blooming and looks great. But it >has white gooey stuff on many of the stems. I?ve been hosing it off, but >it >keeps coming back at ever larger amounts. Is this (whatever it is) going >to >suck the juice out of the bush or is it harmless and I can just leave it >alone? It?s on no other bush or plant ? just this lavender bush. > >Ursula Miller > _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Mar 24 19:32:29 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 14:32:29 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hibiscus leaves yellow Message-ID: <170.ad4bbed.29cf83cd@aol.com> --part1_170.ad4bbed.29cf83cd_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The yellow leaves on your hibiscus are caused by over watering, this time of year deep watering once every 10 days to two weeks is adequate. In summer watering once per week is adequate. Chelated iron will help but the basic problem of over watering must be corrected. Check out this site which has lots of info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_170.ad4bbed.29cf83cd_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The yellow leaves on your hibiscus are caused by over watering, this time of year deep watering once every 10 days to two weeks is adequate. In summer watering once per week is adequate. Chelated iron will help but the basic problem of over watering must be corrected.

Check out this site which has lots of info on irrigation:  http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener

--part1_170.ad4bbed.29cf83cd_boundary-- From nkrandall@juno.com Sun Mar 24 21:33:50 2002 From: nkrandall@juno.com (nkrandall@juno.com) Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 14:33:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203242133.g2OLXog23131@Ag.arizona.edu> Hi. I built my raised grow boxes of treated wood in hopes they would last a long time. Is there a health danger with the chemicals in the wood seeping out into the roots of the vegetables that I grow? Could I line the inside of the boxes with thick landscape plastic or do I have to scrap them? I would appreciate your educated response. From fireplug004@worldshare.net Sun Mar 24 21:57:50 2002 From: fireplug004@worldshare.net (fireplug004@worldshare.net) Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 14:57:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203242157.g2OLvng25086@Ag.arizona.edu> I am in need of a fast growing shrub that will screen-out my neighbors. I started in '99 with this project and planted 15 plus Hopbushes along my fenceline which runs about 193 feet long. I lost almost half of them; the other seem to be thriving and are almost 6' in height. Now I need to fill in the areas where I lost bushes. My requirements are: 1. fast growing 2. must grow beyond 6' high 3. little to moderate water (prefer less rather than more) 4. I live in Apache Junction and I believe my soil does not drain well but I'm not certain, therefore the shrub must be able to tolerate this condition 5. full sun 6. non-poisonous 7. minimal pruning Based on my research, I have narrowed my choices down to the following: 1. plant more Hopbush - have read they need good drainage - not sure if I have that here; seems to grow slow - would giving it more water help to hasten its growth? 2. arizona rosewood - have read it is a slow grower and does not do well with poor soil draining conditions. Can someone refute? 3. Texas Olive - have read it does well in most soils. Not sure how fast it grows. 4. acacia jennerae or acacia notablis - were recommended in a message on the arid_gardener. I don't know much about these or whether they would meet all of my requirements, but would like to know more. 5. Orange Trumpet Flower (Tecoma x 'Burnt-Out' - where would I find this? Don't know whether it could grow with my soil conditions. 6. Yellow Bells (tecoma stans) - really like this one but I'm concerned it won't do well with my soil conditions. Other plants I have considered but decided they were not right include, Cape Honeysuckle, Texas Ranger, Oleander, Foothills Palo Verde, Desert Cassia (only because it doesn't grow beyond 6' otherwise it was a contender), Cat's Claw Vine (don't want it growing on the fence) and Lady Bank's Rose. Are there any other plants I should consider? I know I can find Hopbush and Yellow Bells at local nurseries but will I be able to find the other choices locally as well? Thank you for any information you can provide. From millero@worldnet.att.net Sun Mar 24 23:12:44 2002 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 16:12:44 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pressure Treated Wood References: <200203242133.g2OLXog23131@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000c01c1d389$6fdcb4c0$3751530c@j0r9501> According to a recent EPA "Consumer Safety Information Sheet" dated 2/12/2002 at http://www.epa.gov/pesticides/citizens/cca_consumer_safety.htm One of the Use/Precautions is: "Do not use treated wood under circumstances where the preservative may become a component of food or animal feed. Examples of such sites would be use of mulch from recycled arsenic-treated wood, cutting boards, counter tops, animal bedding, and structures or containers for storing animal feed or human food." Although it doesn't specifically address garden beds, the references to mulch and human food storage containers are close enough to suggest it is not a good idea. This is a favorite topic on gardening email lists and there are a lot of web sites discussing both sides of the issue. Some people argue that any arsenic leaching out of the wood can not be taken up by plants but concede there might be residual traces on root crops which would be washed off in harvesting and preparing the vegetables. I would suggest perusing some of the articles (use www.google.com and keywords "pressure treated wood" +CCA) and make your own decision. A good example of the opposite side of the issue is published at http://www.acsh.org/publications/story/wood/ But there are so many questions that I would not use it. There are many other choices. Olin Mller ----- Original Message ----- From: > Hi. I built my raised grow boxes of treated wood in hopes they would last a long time. Is there a health danger with the chemicals in the wood seeping out into the roots of the vegetables that I grow? > Could I line the inside of the boxes with thick landscape plastic or do I have to scrap them? I would appreciate your educated response. > From Billwoody9@wmconnect.com Mon Mar 25 04:18:04 2002 From: Billwoody9@wmconnect.com (Billwoody9@wmconnect.com) Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 23:18:04 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Problems reading Digest Message-ID: <193.44f17de.29cffefc@wmconnect.com> --part1_193.44f17de.29cffefc_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have two problems reading the Arid Gardener Digest on Wal-Mart Connect, which is AOL relabeled. 1. Often the messages appear on a colored background. when that color is dark blue, they are virtually unreadable. 2. Messages in the latter part of each digest usually have garbage in them--format and font statements like HTML junk. I have tried both MIME and the other choice and neither is satisfactory. I've ordered Netscape 6.2, having heard that it will read AOL mail. I hope it will read the Wal-Mart version. Meanwhile, any other suggestions? Bill Woody (geek) 623 925-7214 days --part1_193.44f17de.29cffefc_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have two problems reading the Arid Gardener Digest on Wal-Mart Connect, which is AOL relabeled.

1.  Often the messages appear on a colored background.  when that color is dark blue, they are virtually unreadable.

2.  Messages in the latter part of each digest usually have garbage in them--format and font statements like HTML junk.  I have tried both MIME and the other choice and neither is satisfactory.

I've ordered Netscape 6.2, having heard that it will read AOL mail.  I hope it will read the Wal-Mart version.  Meanwhile, any other suggestions?

Bill Woody  (geek)
623 925-7214 days
--part1_193.44f17de.29cffefc_boundary-- From s2@arcworldwide.com Mon Mar 25 14:46:03 2002 From: s2@arcworldwide.com (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 07:46:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: fast shrubs References: <200203242157.g2OLvng25086@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C9F382B.C9D48A0D@auroranow.org> I'd stick with your hop bushes or oleanders (although oleanders need well drained soil... sounds like you may have some caliche). Hop bushes will grow fast, fullness & height will depend on water... a little more may do the trick for you. Tecoma Stans (yellow bells) are also a good option, the orange flowered variety grows taller, faster (I had a 8" 1 gallon plant reach 10 ft. in a season). Tecoma stans a) may freeze back in winter and b) aren't very dense (I'm assuming this is a privacy screen, so that may not be your best solution). Yellow bells are like hop bushes... they're native, but will grow faster, fuller with extra water. The other options you mentioned also require good drainage. If caliche is a problem, drill a french drain at the bottom of your planting hole and fill it with stones, which will help. I also have a stretch of fence I'm trying to do the same thing with, also with a caliche problem (the only caliche in the whole yard, and its gotta be right up against the fence!). I went to hop bushes myself. I've opted to invest in putting an ocotillo fence along a 180' stretch between us and our neighors because its too far beyond water access to try shrubs. Good luck! -- Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. Vice President, Communications & Technology ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org ===================================================== "I became convinced we are here for each other." -- R. Buckminster Fuller From s2@auroranow.org Mon Mar 25 14:49:30 2002 From: s2@auroranow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 07:49:30 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: hibiscus References: <200203231847.g2NIlgg09096@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C9F38FA.108355B3@auroranow.org> One more response on the hibiscus... they perform better when fertilized with palm fertilizer, not miracle grow. It has also been windy, which can yellow hibiscus leaves as well. Good luck (not a master gardener) -- Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. Vice President, Communications & Technology ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org ===================================================== "I became convinced we are here for each other." -- R. Buckminster Fuller From p1waltz@aol.com Mon Mar 25 15:41:03 2002 From: p1waltz@aol.com (p1waltz@aol.com) Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 08:41:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203251541.g2PFf3g08916@Ag.arizona.edu> My citrus trees (orange, tangelo and grapefruit) are beginning to bloom. I still have a good amount of fruit on the trees and I am wondering if I need to remove the fruit. Please help. From linda.l.van@boeing.com Mon Mar 25 16:56:06 2002 From: linda.l.van@boeing.com (linda.l.van@boeing.com) Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 09:56:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203251656.g2PGu6g25525@Ag.arizona.edu> How do I permantely remove Bermuda Grass from around Queen Ann Palms without harming the Palms? There is approximately 200 square feet of grass. In the center of that area is another area with the Quesn Ann Palms. The grass is about 2 feet away from the base of the Palms. From crymer@Ag.arizona.edu Mon Mar 25 17:10:07 2002 From: crymer@Ag.arizona.edu (Cathy Rymer) Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 10:10:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200203230225.g2N2PXg18717@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20020325095120.00a54100@ag.arizona.edu> In addition to Rod's idea about contacting the Gilbert Water Conservation office, why not come see "real" examples of landscapes and "how to" advice on creating them? Real Gardens for Real People is an educational garden tour on March 30, hosted by the U of A, Master Gardener volunteers. One garden (or landscape) focuses on Xeriscape and is located in Gilbert. Other gardens highlight edible landscapes, flower gardening, shade gardening and cactus and succulent gardening and are located in Mesa and Chandler. All plants will be labeled and volunteers will be on hand to answer questions. Handy written materials will be available on lots of topics to help you with landscape choices. Tickets are $10 each which admits you to all five gardens. They can be purchased at the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension office in Phoenix (see address below) or at Treeland Nursery in Chandler, Harper's Nursery in Mesa and other outlets. Proceeds will be used to promote Master Gardener training, events and projects. For details call (602) 470-1556 x 1017 or visit http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ I hope to see you there! Cathy At 07:25 PM 03/22/2002 -0700, tletham@gps-made-easy.com wrote: >We have flood irrigated acre in Gilbert. MOst of the yard requires >mowing. We would like to figure out how to reduce the maintenance. Where >can we get some help with ideas? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Catherine Rymer Instructional Specialist, Sr., Urban Horticulture Certified Arborist WC-5216 University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Phoenix, AZ 85040 http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ From southerlandg@ci.merced.ca.us Mon Mar 25 18:30:37 2002 From: southerlandg@ci.merced.ca.us (southerlandg@ci.merced.ca.us) Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 11:30:37 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203251830.g2PIUag17812@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like to know the best planting methods for alvocado trees. How far from fences,building sprinkler lines etc., should I plant them. What precautions should I take throughout the year to make sure damage does not occur. How long does it take to produce fruit? I currently have two in 5 gal. bought from nursery. From yingthaiaz@yahoo.com Mon Mar 25 19:11:41 2002 From: yingthaiaz@yahoo.com (Gaew Shimizu) Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 11:11:41 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] New to Arid_Gardener In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20020325191141.55212.qmail@web14701.mail.yahoo.com> Hi, Copper: Sorry to taking so long to reply. I've been really busy (working a lot of overtime). Anyway, thank you very much for your helpfulness. I'll be sure to look into the county office. I've received some info. about gardening from the City of Chandler when we moved into our new house. But it's always better to chat with experts on the board rather than going by general info. on the pamphlets. Thanks again. Gail in Chandler --- Copper Bittner wrote: > Hello Gail, > > Welcome to the Sonoran Desert and the Phoenix > area. There is so much > information available to all at the Maricopa > County Extension office at 4331 > E Broadway in Phoenix. Desert gardening takes > a bit of getting used to, but > if you'll avail yourself to our informational > flyers, use this list, and > consider becoming a Master Gardener through the > Extension's fine program, > you'll feel like an oldtimer in no time at all. > We are all here to help. > > Copper Bittner > Master Gardener > Maricopa County > Chandler > > -----Original Message----- > From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu > [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On > Behalf Of Gaew Shimizu > Sent: Friday, March 15, 2002 7:34 AM > To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu > Subject: [Arid_gardener] New to Arid_Gardener > > > Hello: > > I'm new to this group and am very happy to have > found it. My family just moved from IL last > year > and we're learning about gardening in AZ. This > group is full of useful information. > > Thank you. > Gail in Chandler > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Sports - live college hoops coverage > http://sports.yahoo.com/ > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Movies - coverage of the 74th Academy Awards® http://movies.yahoo.com/ From yingthaiaz@yahoo.com Mon Mar 25 20:16:39 2002 From: yingthaiaz@yahoo.com (Gaew Shimizu) Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 12:16:39 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Arabian Jasmine Dying?? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20020325201639.55577.qmail@web14704.mail.yahoo.com> Hello: I have a pretty good size Arabian jasmine (about 2' in diameter and 2.5' tall) in the ground at my new house. I had it in a container for about 4 months when we lived in an apt. and it was producing many big beautiful flowers last fall. It was so healthy when all of the sudden the leaves became "crispy" and droopy (this started about a week and a half ago). The leaves are still green, however. I have 4 other jasmines in the ground in the same area, but only this one is dying and I don't know why. The only thing I've done so far was gave it the AZ Best 10-10-10 with 5% iron food and that's when all this happened. I also gave the same food to all other jasmines and they're OK. For each plant, my husband dug the hole and mixed the Miracle Grow Garden soil (made for vegetables and flowers) with mulch and then put the the plant in there. The actual soil is just brown and hard and seems lacking nutrients. We planted a lot of plants in our backyard the same way, but this jasmine is the only one that's dying. My husband clipped off all the dead branches and leaves. There are some branches that have leaves not "crispy" yet and I hope to be able to save it. Any suggestions is greatly appreciated. Gail in Chandler __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Movies - coverage of the 74th Academy Awards® http://movies.yahoo.com/ From MIMJAC@aol.com Mon Mar 25 22:51:53 2002 From: MIMJAC@aol.com (MIMJAC@aol.com) Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 17:51:53 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Publications Message-ID: <17c.5af8da0.29d10409@aol.com> Mr. Rogers, Thanks for the information I have ordered the two books.I am looking forward to getting and reading them. I also am making copies of different things that I am interested in on your Web site. Thanks for the help, Jack from Waukegan,IL From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Mar 26 14:19:24 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 07:19:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] LOTS of ants in my compost? References: <5.1.0.14.0.20020320094044.01e2f150@mail.usscreen.com> Message-ID: <3CA0836C.489C00DD@qwest.net> Since your compost is a food source, and removal of food sources is probably the foremost recommended strategy for addressing ants, you are in something of a pickle. http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/insects/ants/ants.html One of the things I would recommend is more frequent stirring so that if they are choosing to nest there as well, you are engaging in a bit of habitat destruction. If they are living elsewhere and you can find the opening, try pouring in ground citrus peal [orange is preferred I think]. You might try incorporating this in your compost as well. When I start to have too many critters in my compost, it's often because I have a larger percentage of kitchen waste, vs sawdust, grass clippings or other yard waste that are not so attractive. See if your neighbors can't help you out with additional nonfood type materials. Linda Guy, MG Mishelle Fresener wrote: > Hello all, > > My compost bin has been over run with ants. Not just a couple of ants, but > a BOAT LOAD! They are everywhere. I know that they can be helpful but I > really don't want to put all of those ants in my garden. I had a big > problem last year with them eating all of the flowers off of my Yard Long > Beans. Any ideas, comments??........ > > Thanks, > > Mishelle > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Mar 26 14:31:33 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 07:31:33 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Leaving Citrus on the Tree References: <200203251541.g2PFf3g08916@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3CA08645.87E25FD9@qwest.net> As a general rule, most varieties of citrus will grow sweeter on the tree even after considered ripe. Eventually, the fruit will reach its peak flavor, after which it will begin to deteriorate and rot. It should certainly be picked by this point. Having said all this, different varieties ripen at different times of the year, and the length of the harvest period is also quite variable [some as little as two months, others for as long as 7 to 8 months]. If you know the varieties, you can get a gauge of the harvest time window in our pub AZ 1001 at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm I could find no specific mention in our pubs of the impact on subsequent year's production, but intuitively, the production may be diminished due to the presence of last year's fruit on the tree. This may well be a good strategy for you to pursue, if you have more fruit than you can currently use and are throwing some away. Linda Guy, MG p1waltz@aol.com wrote: > My citrus trees (orange, tangelo and grapefruit) are beginning to bloom. I still have a good amount of fruit on the trees and I am wondering if I need to remove the fruit. Please help. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From s2@arcworldwide.com Tue Mar 26 14:46:09 2002 From: s2@arcworldwide.com (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 07:46:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] red bird / aphids References: <4.2.0.58.20020325095120.00a54100@ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3CA089B1.79B706D5@auroranow.org> 2 unrelated questions: I just replaced a red bird of paradise I thought was a "goner" after our hard winter, but when I dug it out to replace it, the roots were far better established than I suspected (it had only been planted mid summer last year) and the roots were alive and healthy. Would this thing have rebounded if I would have left it alone? (Also, we were shocked to find 2 river frogs almost 18" down in the hole! They weren't there when I planted the shrub last summer!) And second... my mother lives on the far northwest side of Tucson and said their entire subdivision is infested with aphids, and she's noticed aphids on a lot of shrubs in the city. We live about 10 miles away outside the city, and haven't seen any yet. Anything I can do now to prevent an infestation? -- Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. Vice President, Communications & Technology ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org ===================================================== "I became convinced we are here for each other." -- R. Buckminster Fuller From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Mar 26 14:43:27 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 07:43:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Orange tree problems Message-ID: <3CA0890F.B28548A@qwest.net> Sorry if my first reply ending up causing more confusion. After rereading your original note and replies you received, some other things to ponder are fertilizer burn which can occur if you spilled in the area and/or didn't water well into the soil. Or a chemical overspray. These could impact one but not all trees. Are you making progress with the diagnosis? Linda Guy, MG From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Mar 26 14:51:56 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 07:51:56 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Is Dwarf Bruce Plum Self-Fruitful? References: <200203151938.g2FJcPX27022@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3CA08B0C.A38ADFE1@qwest.net> --------------AB5060B304411FD10ED742DD Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit This particular plum tree is not listed in our publication MC 90 http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Fruits which lists suitable plums [low chilling hour requirement] for the low desert. This suggests that your first order of business should be to ask about this [250 hours is usually achievable for our area]. The nursery where you are ordering the stock should be able to provide this information as well as answer the question about its self-fruitfulness. If not, you may want to try another, more knowledgeable, nursery. Linda Guy, MG jagallison@worldnet.att.net wrote: > Do I need to have more than one dwarf bruce plum tree (prunus salicina) for cross pollination in order for the tree to bear fruit? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener --------------AB5060B304411FD10ED742DD Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit This particular plum tree is not listed in our publication MC 90   http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Fruits
which lists suitable plums [low chilling hour requirement] for the low desert. This suggests that your first order of business should be to ask about this [250 hours is usually achievable for our area]. The nursery where you are ordering the stock should be able to provide this information as well as answer the question about its self-fruitfulness. If not, you may want to try another, more knowledgeable, nursery.

Linda Guy, MG

jagallison@worldnet.att.net wrote:

Do I need to have more than one dwarf bruce plum tree (prunus salicina) for cross pollination in order for the tree to bear fruit?

_______________________________________________
Arid_gardener mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener

--------------AB5060B304411FD10ED742DD-- From pgehlker@fastq.com Tue Mar 26 18:27:12 2002 From: pgehlker@fastq.com (pgehlker@fastq.com) Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 11:27:12 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203261827.g2QIRCg26789@Ag.arizona.edu> Can you please tell me why the price of lettuce has gone dramatically up? I am sure it must have something to do with supply. Is there a lettuce blight in Mexico? Thanks From harrietd@w3az.net Tue Mar 26 18:27:36 2002 From: harrietd@w3az.net (harrietd@w3az.net) Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 11:27:36 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203261827.g2QIRag26859@Ag.arizona.edu> My pommegranite bush froze back this Feb. New tiny shoots are all black and crisp. Will this bush survive? thanks for any help From lorraine@kulpinski.net Tue Mar 26 18:37:45 2002 From: lorraine@kulpinski.net (lorraine@kulpinski.net) Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 11:37:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203261837.g2QIbjg29272@Ag.arizona.edu> A home remedy for fungicide spray to control powdery mildew. From etaylor9335@msn.com Tue Mar 26 19:39:27 2002 From: etaylor9335@msn.com (etaylor9335@msn.com) Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 12:39:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203261939.g2QJdRg13287@Ag.arizona.edu> I work for USDA APHIS here in Phoenix. I just recently moved to the area and I dont not know a lot about the desert. I was asked by the USDA Vet that also just moved to the area about scorpions. He said that he heard that there is a species of scorpion that lives in palm trees. Can you clarify this for me? I would like to know if this is true, what species of palm would host the scorpion and what species of scorpion would live in the trees. Thank you for any info. From Jonathan Kandell" <3CA0836C.489C00DD@qwest.net> Message-ID: <00a901c1d503$e7b806e0$6a39bbd0@oemcomputer> > > My compost bin has been over run with ants. Not just a couple of ants, bu > > a BOAT LOAD! They are everywhere. I know that they can be helpful but I > > really don't want to put all of those ants in my garden. I had a big > > problem last year with them eating all of the flowers off of my Yard Long > > Beans. Any ideas, comments??........ I too lost my yard long bean plants to ants. :-( I think I got two beans out of my plot! Ants likely won't stay in the compost after it's complete, after stuff is decayed into humus. After you sift it, let it sit separately for a week or more before you plant, and you probably won't find any ants left in it when you put it in the garden. Works for me. jk From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Mar 26 22:13:52 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 22:13:52 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Scorpions Message-ID: Cooperative Extension has a new document available: Scorpions MC71 It can be ordered from the ext service for $1. The address is: Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 You may also drop by to pick up this document. It contains useful information about the natural history of scorpions and measures to take around inhabited areas. Scorpions are good climbers and may be found in trees, especially if there is a "skirt" with lots of cover and possible food supply; however, most of them hang out under rocks and come out at night in search of crickets, cockroaches, etc. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: etaylor9335@msn.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 12:39:27 -0700 (MST) > >I work for USDA APHIS here in Phoenix. I just recently moved to the area >and I dont not know a lot about the desert. I was asked by the USDA Vet >that also just moved to the area about scorpions. He said that he heard >that there is a species of scorpion that lives in palm trees. Can you >clarify this for me? I would like to know if this is true, what species of >palm would host the scorpion and what species of scorpion would live in the >trees. >Thank you for any info. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Mar 26 22:25:26 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 22:25:26 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] powdery mildew Message-ID: Rodale's Organic Gardener's Handbook recommends picking off affected parts at the first sign of the disease; then commence a weekly spraying program with sulfur. Other sprays mentioned are soap spray (Safer Garden Fungicide -soap & sulfur), baking soda spray (1 tsp. baking soda + 1/2 tsp. liquid dish soap dissolved in 1 quart warm water) and Bordeaux mix (copper suphate and hydrated lime). >From: lorraine@kulpinski.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 11:37:45 -0700 (MST) > >A home remedy for fungicide spray to control powdery mildew. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Mar 26 22:28:07 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 22:28:07 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] pomegranate frost damage Message-ID: The bush will probably survive; give it some time to put out new leaves. Give the bush a deep watering as temperatures rise and growth begins again. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: harrietd@w3az.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 11:27:36 -0700 (MST) > >My pommegranite bush froze back this Feb. New tiny shoots are all black >and crisp. Will this bush survive? thanks for any help > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Mar 26 22:31:55 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 22:31:55 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] lettuce prices Message-ID: I don't know the answer, but I suspect that the supply is down because we are nearing the end of lettuce-growing season in the southwest (too warm and begins to bolt), plus the few recent very cold nights that may have resulted in some frost damage and loss of product. >From: pgehlker@fastq.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 11:27:12 -0700 (MST) > >Can you please tell me why the price of lettuce has gone dramatically up? I >am sure it must have something to do with supply. Is there a lettuce blight >in Mexico? > >Thanks > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Mar 26 22:37:15 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 22:37:15 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] red bird / aphids Message-ID: Hello, Sherryl I think the red bird of paradise would probably have recovered. Mine freeze all the way to the ground in winter but resprout when warm weather returns. I have noticed more aphids and scales this spring- perhaps because of the dry winter? Keep your eyes open for aphids and use a soap spray when you see them. I'm also hoping the lacewing population will be higher this spring and take care of the aphids (so I wouldn't use an insecticide; it kills the good guys as well as the aphids). Finding the toads are really cool! Linda >From: Sherryl Stalinski >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] red bird / aphids >Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 07:46:09 -0700 > >2 unrelated questions: > >I just replaced a red bird of paradise I thought was a "goner" after our >hard winter, but when I dug it out to replace it, the roots were far >better established than I suspected (it had only been planted mid summer >last year) and the roots were alive and healthy. Would this thing have >rebounded if I would have left it alone? (Also, we were shocked to find >2 river frogs almost 18" down in the hole! They weren't there when I >planted the shrub last summer!) > >And second... my mother lives on the far northwest side of Tucson and >said their entire subdivision is infested with aphids, and she's noticed >aphids on a lot of shrubs in the city. We live about 10 miles away >outside the city, and haven't seen any yet. Anything I can do now to >prevent an infestation? >-- >Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. >Vice President, Communications & Technology >ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com >Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 > >Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org >===================================================== >"I became convinced we are here for each other." > -- R. Buckminster Fuller > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Mar 26 23:24:29 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 18:24:29 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Arabian Jasmine Dying?? Message-ID: --part1_fc.15b9960f.29d25d2d_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Gail, What you describe sounds like a fertilizer burn. Could it be that the affected jasmine was the last plant fertilized and with what was in the bottom of the container. The fertilizer may not have been completely disolved and been too hot for the plant. I have had plants burned this way. Did you water first before applying fertilizer? And did you follow exactly the application and mixing instructions? Did you apply the fertilizer to the leaves and was it on one of our hotter days around midday? Over watering could cause the leaves to wilt and become brittle. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_fc.15b9960f.29d25d2d_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Gail,

What you describe sounds like a fertilizer burn. Could it be that the affected jasmine was the last plant fertilized  and with what was in the bottom of the container. The fertilizer may not have been completely disolved and been too hot for the plant. I have had plants burned this way. Did you water first before applying fertilizer? And did you follow exactly the application and mixing instructions? Did you apply the fertilizer to the leaves and was it on one of our hotter days around midday?
Over watering could cause the leaves to wilt and become brittle.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_fc.15b9960f.29d25d2d_boundary-- From lbiesel@hotmail.com Wed Mar 27 01:26:22 2002 From: lbiesel@hotmail.com (lbiesel@hotmail.com) Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 18:26:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203270126.g2R1QMg25123@Ag.arizona.edu> From lbiesel@cox.net Wed Mar 27 01:28:06 2002 From: lbiesel@cox.net (lbiesel@cox.net) Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 18:28:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203270128.g2R1S6g25384@Ag.arizona.edu> Need a list of plants that rabbits do not eat From s2@arcworldwide.com Wed Mar 27 02:02:41 2002 From: s2@arcworldwide.com (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 19:02:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: rabbits References: <200203270128.g2R1S6g25384@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3CA12841.91F3BA45@auroranow.org> lbiesel@cox.net wrote: > > Need a list of plants that rabbits do not eat There is a list at the ag.arizona.edu site you can download: ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1237.pdf But my experience is that rabbits are illiterate and haven't read the list. I had a big problem with them last year, and found that chicken wire around new plants until they're established and large enough to handle some nibbling is your best bet. I will say they tend to stay away from the more aromatic plants (salvias, especially salvia clevelandii, rosemary, etc.) and narrower/bluer leafed plants. They love succulents like ice plants (and will nibble away on young/new cactus pads). Despite what the list says, they do eat brittlebush, dalea, lantana, especially young plants. Once plants are a couple feet tall, the rabbits do a great job of pruning and keeping dropped flowers cleaned up. My general observations is that if it even looks green and living, rabbits will eat it. Invest in chicken wire and save your sanity. -- Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. Vice President, Communications & Technology ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org ===================================================== "I became convinced we are here for each other." -- R. Buckminster Fuller From yingthaiaz@yahoo.com Wed Mar 27 14:15:02 2002 From: yingthaiaz@yahoo.com (Gaew Shimizu) Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 06:15:02 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Arabian Jasmine Dying?? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20020327141502.39455.qmail@web14704.mail.yahoo.com> Hi, Rod: Thanks so much for your reply. The fertilizer is a granule type. I didn't water before applying it though (the ground was already a bit moist). I sprinkled it on the soil around the jasmine, but not right at the trunks (kind of like a donut ring circle) and then I watered. I think I applied the fertilizer around 2 pm. So that could be the hottest time of day. However, this jasmine is in the partial shade area along with one other jasmine that I purchased at the same time and had at the apartment for about 3-4 months before I put both in the ground. So it wasn't sitting in the sun by that time. I don't think I applied too much fertilizer, but could very well have (although I did followed the instruction on the bag). I'm still learning about these things. :) I probably watered it too much like you said. I'll be more careful next time. BTW, my neighbor applies fish emulsion to her plants and she has pretty good looking plants. Should I do the same? Thanks again. Gail in Chandler --- RodMcQ6@aol.com wrote: > Gail, > > What you describe sounds like a fertilizer > burn. Could it be that the > affected jasmine was the last plant fertilized > and with what was in the > bottom of the container. The fertilizer may not > have been completely disolved > and been too hot for the plant. I have had > plants burned this way. Did you > water first before applying fertilizer? And did > you follow exactly the > application and mixing instructions? Did you > apply the fertilizer to the > leaves and was it on one of our hotter days > around midday? > Over watering could cause the leaves to wilt > and become brittle. > > Good luck. > > Rod McKusick > Master Gardener > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Movies - coverage of the 74th Academy Awards® http://movies.yahoo.com/ From bayers@honors.arizona.edu Wed Mar 27 14:19:58 2002 From: bayers@honors.arizona.edu (Jim Bayers) Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 07:19:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Asparagus Message-ID: Hi All, Thanks for your help in the past. I put some asparagus crowns in. I've never grown it before. There's a bunch of asparagus sprouts coming up forming ferns. Some crowns have sent up two or three stalks, others just one. Do I want one stalk for each crown? They won't produce anything for a year right? Thanks, - Jim From susan.e.wittrock@intel.com Wed Mar 27 16:33:52 2002 From: susan.e.wittrock@intel.com (susan.e.wittrock@intel.com) Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 09:33:52 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203271633.g2RGXqg09575@Ag.arizona.edu> I need to know the proper procedure to trim a neighbors tree branches that are encroaching into my RV gravel driveway. Can I trim the branches back myself, should I try to contact him about the issue. I would rather try to catch this now before the branches get very big and a trimming could throw off its balance or even damage it. From bteagle@worldnet.att.net Wed Mar 27 16:49:53 2002 From: bteagle@worldnet.att.net (bteagle@worldnet.att.net) Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 09:49:53 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203271649.g2RGnrg13409@Ag.arizona.edu> I wanr to know the correct timing for applying Gibberilic (spelling??) Acid to my grapes to increase their size. What size should the grapes be and how often to apply also the best method for application. I have thompson seedless, perlette and flame seedless grapes. From douglas.kirkman@asu.edu Wed Mar 27 19:18:28 2002 From: douglas.kirkman@asu.edu (douglas.kirkman@asu.edu) Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 12:18:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203271918.g2RJISg18078@Ag.arizona.edu> I live in central Phoenix and have a number of flowering olive trees. When is the most effective time to spray them to inhibite their pollen production. Is it after a certain temperature or is it something else. I would sure like to know if there are any guide lines for this. Thanks for you time and effort for this problem. Doug From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Mar 27 20:12:37 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 20:12:37 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Olive trees, pollen Message-ID: Here is an earlier response. This product will stop the production of fruit, but I doubt if it has any effect on pollen production. As far as I know, there is no product that will inhibit pollen production. Some of the newer olive hybrids, such as Swan Hill, naturally produce less pollen. --- We have a fact sheet [under Ornamental Section] #375 Chemical Removal of Flowers on Olive and Mulberry Trees which can be ordered using instructions at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#top Sometimes your local library will have a notebook with our publications in section 635 of the Reference [noncirculating] area. Basically, a chemical spray containing napthaleneacetic acid [NAA] is applied on the blossoms with a second spray applied a week later for late-developing blossoms. This spray can cause rash on people with allergies. I have read where people simply spray down the blossoms with a jet of water [to spray off the pollen] frequently during the bloom cycle, but I am not aware if this is a successful strategy. In any case, any blossom that is missed will become a fruit. Linda Guy Master Gardener >From: douglas.kirkman@asu.edu >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 12:18:28 -0700 (MST) > >I live in central Phoenix and have a number of flowering olive trees. When >is the most effective time to spray them to inhibite their pollen >production. Is it after a certain temperature or is it something else. I >would sure like to know if there are any guide lines for this. Thanks for >you time and effort for this problem. Doug > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From mardee9@cox.net Wed Mar 27 21:57:29 2002 From: mardee9@cox.net (mardee9@cox.net) Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 14:57:29 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203272157.g2RLvTg23141@Ag.arizona.edu> How do you verticut midiron grass. How deep, when? What kind of pattern? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Mar 27 23:36:02 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 18:36:02 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf, verticutting Message-ID: --part1_b7.1df4c96f.29d3b162_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit University of Arizona recommends that verticutting be done in early to mid summer when grass will have time to recover from the shock before fall dormancy. Rent a verticutter from your closest rental store after mowing as low as possible with your mower. A back and forth pattern is satisfactory. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_b7.1df4c96f.29d3b162_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit University of Arizona recommends that verticutting be done in early to mid summer when grass will have time to recover from the shock before fall dormancy. Rent a verticutter from your closest rental store after mowing as low as possible with your mower. A back and forth pattern is satisfactory.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_b7.1df4c96f.29d3b162_boundary-- From Jonathan Kandell" Message-ID: <001501c1d5eb$5896e740$6939bbd0@oemcomputer> Some cover crops work here in the heat, Linda--like teparies, hollyhocks, amaranth, tithonia, sorghum, buckwheat, sweetpotato, wild mustard, and other weeds, to name a few. The ideal crop grows quickly with little water in alkaline soil and manages to be dark green anyway. I'm currently experimenting with using many of these to improve our alkaline hard soils, both in summer and winter, as a supplement to manure/compost. I'm sure many of you have noticed how nice the soil is when you pull out large weeds or the above crops. I think the roots growing throughout the soil create an environment that brings in the microbes and bugs and creates good soil. The leaves shade the ground, hold in water, and then give back nitrogen (often free) and other nutrients back in. Really, it's like magic how good soil can get created here! The main downside is that it takes away garden space, but some of this is minimized if you use the cover crops for making compost instead of digging in, leaving in the roots to provide organic matter and texture for the next crop. jk ----- Original Message ----- From: "Linda Drew" To: ; Sent: Sunday, March 24, 2002 11:49 AM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] cover crops > Your friend might be describing the planting of > "cover crops". > > Cover crops would be sown in October-November; > watered and nurtured; then turned back into the > soil as green manure-organic matter. Typical cover > crops are legumes (nitrogen-fixing plants) such as > clovers and vetch and plants that produce a lot > of topgrowth (green matter) quickly such as ryegrass, > barley, oats and winter rye. > > I haven't seen cover crops used here; I always thought > it was because the winter months are productive > crop-growing months here; unlike very cold-winter > areas. From Jonathan Kandell" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_006B_01C1D5B3.C5901160 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Off topic, forgive me. I have two prickly pear thorns stuck deep in my = thumb, painful as hell. I know you can remove small hair-like thorns = with wax or glue. But is there anything I can do to expel these larger = thorns embedded deeper in? I am trying to avoid going to a doctor. = Tried a needle and tweezers and couldn't find the thorns. Will they = disintegrate with time? jk ------=_NextPart_000_006B_01C1D5B3.C5901160 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Off topic, forgive me. I have two prickly pear = thorns=20 stuck deep in my thumb, painful as hell.  I know you can remove = small=20 hair-like thorns with wax or glue.  But is there anything I can do = to expel=20 these larger thorns embedded deeper in?  I am trying to avoid going = to a=20 doctor.  Tried a needle and tweezers and couldn't find the = thorns. =20 Will they disintegrate with time?
 
jk
------=_NextPart_000_006B_01C1D5B3.C5901160-- From azleavitt@cox.net Thu Mar 28 04:32:30 2002 From: azleavitt@cox.net (azleavitt@cox.net) Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 21:32:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203280432.g2S4WUg25578@Ag.arizona.edu> Help! We moved into a new home last May. The landscaping is about 10 yrs old, with mature hisbiscus, cactus, palms and flowing shrubs which were all very healthy when we moved in. Even though we are following the water and fertilizing guidelines suggested by a local nursery, our hisbiscus and cactus are dying. Several of the hisbiscus began to shrink, with one withering and dying completely in just a matter of weeks. We have a drip system and reduced the watering to 60 minutes twice a week. We have now increased that to 60 minutes three times a week. I can't see any sign of pests. The only thing out of the norm that we did was to use some fertilizer "sticks" for flowering shrubs last fall. Do you have any ideas what may be causing the problem? Thank you! From jandbchapman@msn.com Thu Mar 28 16:26:55 2002 From: jandbchapman@msn.com (jandbchapman@msn.com) Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 09:26:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203281626.g2SGQtg13300@Ag.arizona.edu> I want to learn about herbs how, where, and when to plant. Is there a great book on Az planting of herbs available somewhere out there? Do you have any infor on it? Thanks! B From ThiedingM@aol.com Thu Mar 28 18:03:22 2002 From: ThiedingM@aol.com (ThiedingM@aol.com) Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 11:03:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203281803.g2SI3Mg05437@Ag.arizona.edu> What are the advantages and disadvantages of planting a "Brazilian Pepper" tree in Phoenix in my patio (northside of a block wall)? Particularly, does this tree have an odor? And is it very messy? And is it ever green? Thank you. From cstephens@infinet-is.com Thu Mar 28 18:49:00 2002 From: cstephens@infinet-is.com (Charles Stephens) Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 11:49:00 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort, Herb Info References: <200203281626.g2SGQtg13300@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000901c1d689$3abfda80$9c86dfd1@default> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01C1D64E.8D29BB00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable B, Your timing couldn't have been better. The Master Gardeners are offering = a class on selection and care of herbs Saturday April 6 from 9 am to = 12pm at the County Cooperative Extensiion Office, 4341 E Broadway RD, = Phoenix. The fee is $15.00. If you have any Questions please call (602) = 470-8086 ext. 309. Charlie Stephens Master Gardener Phoenix ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01C1D64E.8D29BB00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
B,
Your timing couldn't have been better. = The Master=20 Gardeners are offering a class on selection and care of herbs Saturday = April 6=20 from 9 am to 12pm at the County Cooperative Extensiion Office, 4341 E = Broadway=20 RD, Phoenix. The fee is $15.00. If you have any Questions please call = (602)=20 470-8086 ext. 309.
 
Charlie Stephens
Master=20 Gardener
Phoenix
------=_NextPart_000_0006_01C1D64E.8D29BB00-- From p1waltz@aol.com Thu Mar 28 21:43:04 2002 From: p1waltz@aol.com (p1waltz@aol.com) Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 14:43:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203282143.g2SLh4g23983@Ag.arizona.edu> I apologize if this is not the forum for such a question, but does anyone know of any reliable landscapers who will do spring clean-ups in the northeast valley, near Greenway and 44th Street? -Thanks From staneissinger@usa.net Thu Mar 28 21:54:14 2002 From: staneissinger@usa.net (Stan Eissinger) Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 16:54:14 -0500 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Insects Eating Mexican Evening Primrose Message-ID: <20020328215414.14797.qmail@uwdvg001.cms.usa.net> Small black, larva-like insects are rapidly eating my Mexican Evening Primrose. Does anyone know or an organic method of getting rid of them. Thanks From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Mar 28 23:00:06 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 18:00:06 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Landscape Irrigation Message-ID: <15d.b5f9b2a.29d4fa76@aol.com> --part1_15d.b5f9b2a.29d4fa76_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Since you didn't tell us how many drippers are on each plant or the size ( gallons per hour ) I can only guess but I suspect that you are over watering your plants especially this time of year. First of all you need to extend the interval between irrigations and apply more water at one time so that the plants are deep watered each time. I hope that your trees and plants are not all on one circuit because they have quite different water requirements. To help you understand how to irrigate properly most of the cities in the valley ( Phoenix area ) have available a free booklet titled LANDSCAPE WATERING BY THE NUMBERS. Another excellent resource is available on line, the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Many of the cities as well as the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension frequently hold classes on irrigation. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_15d.b5f9b2a.29d4fa76_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Since you didn't tell us how many drippers are on each plant or the size ( gallons per hour ) I can only guess but I suspect that you are over watering your plants especially this time of year. First of all you need to extend the interval between irrigations and apply more water at one time so that the plants are deep watered each time. I hope that your trees and plants are not all on one circuit because they have quite different water requirements.
To help you understand how to irrigate properly  most of the cities in the valley ( Phoenix area ) have available a free booklet titled LANDSCAPE WATERING BY THE NUMBERS. Another excellent resource is available on line, the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html
Many of the cities as well as the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension frequently hold classes on irrigation.

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_15d.b5f9b2a.29d4fa76_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Mar 28 23:00:35 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 18:00:35 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Brazilian Pepper Message-ID: <28.24539661.29d4fa93@aol.com> --part1_28.24539661.29d4fa93_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The evergreen Brazilian Pepper can be a beautiful tree with dark green foliage, growing 15 to 30 feet tall. However there are enough negatives to cause me to pass on this tree. It is susceptable to Texas Root Rot, verticillium wilt, wind damage and damage from freezing at 28 degrees F. One can locate the tree in a sheltered area to help prevent wind damage and freezing but there is not a cure for Texas Root Rot and Verticillium wilt. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_28.24539661.29d4fa93_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The evergreen Brazilian Pepper can be  a beautiful tree with dark green foliage, growing 15 to 30 feet tall. However there are enough negatives to cause me to pass on this tree. It is susceptable to Texas Root Rot, verticillium wilt, wind damage and damage from freezing at 28 degrees F. One can locate the tree in a sheltered area to help prevent wind damage and freezing but there is not a cure for Texas Root Rot and Verticillium wilt.

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
--part1_28.24539661.29d4fa93_boundary-- From jimhemauer@msn.com Fri Mar 29 02:53:44 2002 From: jimhemauer@msn.com (jimhemauer@msn.com) Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 19:53:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203290253.g2T2rig14809@Ag.arizona.edu> The are very few leaves on my misquite trees. Some branches are bare. They were very "lush" last year. What could be the cause of this? Thanks for any tips. Jim From rockchic_182@hotmail.com Fri Mar 29 07:15:10 2002 From: rockchic_182@hotmail.com (rockchic_182@hotmail.com) Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 00:15:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203290715.g2T7FAg13500@Ag.arizona.edu> Yeah, i'm doing a science fair project and this is my research question.: How does a sudden change in weather affect the growth of plants? I'd like to know if you have any info on this area of research? From cstephens@infinet-is.com Fri Mar 29 12:55:28 2002 From: cstephens@infinet-is.com (Charles Stephens) Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 05:55:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort, Herb Info References: <200203281626.g2SGQtg13300@Ag.arizona.edu> <000901c1d689$3abfda80$9c86dfd1@default> <001001c1d6d2$75972340$0101a8c0@hppav> Message-ID: <000a01c1d721$0197c220$8a1259d8@default> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C1D6E6.541B9340 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable B, I don't know of another class anytime soon. I suggest that you contact = the Arizona Herb Association, I'm sure they can help you get started. = The link below will take you to their web page. http://www.accessarizona.com/community/groups/azherb/index.html Charlie Stephens Master Gardener Phoenix ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C1D6E6.541B9340 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
B,
 
I don't know of another class anytime = soon. I=20 suggest that you contact the Arizona Herb Association, I'm sure they can = help=20 you get started. The link below will take you to their web = page.
 
= http://www.accessarizona.com/community/groups/azherb/index.html
 
Charlie Stephens
Master=20 Gardener
Phoenix
------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C1D6E6.541B9340-- From Steve.Sheard@motorola.com Fri Mar 29 14:46:51 2002 From: Steve.Sheard@motorola.com (Sheard Stephen-r21680) Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 07:46:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort, Herb Info Message-ID: This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C1D730.8FFFE9C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" City of Tempe has one on April 23rd at Pyle center. You would need to contact the City to see if it is full. Regards Steve -----Original Message----- From: Charles Stephens [mailto:cstephens@infinet-is.com] Sent: Friday, March 29, 2002 5:55 AM To: jandbchapman Cc: Arid_Gardener Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort, Herb Info B, I don't know of another class anytime soon. I suggest that you contact the Arizona Herb Association, I'm sure they can help you get started. The link below will take you to their web page. http://www.accessarizona.com/community/groups/azherb/index.html Charlie Stephens Master Gardener Phoenix ------_=_NextPart_001_01C1D730.8FFFE9C0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

C= ity of Tempe has one on April 23rd at Pyle center. You would need to = contact the City to see if it is full.

R= egards

S= teve

<= ![if = !supportEmptyParas]> 

=

<= ![if = !supportEmptyParas]> 

=

-----Original Message-----
From: Charles Stephens [mailto:cstephens@infinet-is.com]
Sent: Friday, March 29, = 2002 5:55 AM
To: jandbchapman
Cc: Arid_Gardener
Subject: Re: = [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort, Herb Info

 

B,=

 =

I don't know of another class = anytime soon. I suggest that you contact the Arizona Herb Association, I'm sure = they can help you get started. The link below will take you to their web = page.=

 =

http://www.accessarizona.com/community/groups/azherb/index.html=

 =

Charlie Stephens
Master Gardener
Phoenix

------_=_NextPart_001_01C1D730.8FFFE9C0-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Mar 29 15:48:54 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 08:48:54 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Insects Eating Mexican Evening Primrose References: <20020328215414.14797.qmail@uwdvg001.cms.usa.net> Message-ID: <3CA48CE6.3D9CDC72@qwest.net> Flea beetles, which are several colors, are known to love Mexican evening primrose, but their larva are whitish, according to the summary below. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/flea-btl.htm Does this describe your problem, and if not, can you give us more info to help identify the pest. Linda Guy, MG Stan Eissinger wrote: > Small black, larva-like insects are rapidly eating my Mexican Evening > Primrose. Does anyone know or an organic method of getting rid of them. > Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Mar 29 15:59:39 2002 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 08:59:39 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] APPLE TREES FOR DUMMIES References: Message-ID: <3CA48F6B.E7B5036C@qwest.net> --------------DC5C76319896831E2F8F5163 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The info you seek on chilling hours in your area would be best addressed by contacting our counterparts in your own county. Look for Cooperative Extension Service in the government listings of your phone book According to our publication on deciduous fruits, MC-90, which you can order at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Dorsett Golden is self fruitful with a chilling requirement of only 100 hours. The Ein Shemer was not listed for our low desert area. Reading further in the Sunset Western Garden Book, despite some fruit trees claims to being self fruitful to varying degrees [and this included Ein Shemer], it was recommended that two or more varieties be planted for cross-fertilization and improved fruit set. Dorsett Golden, Ein Shemer and Anna were all said to be good pollenizers for each other. Fruit trees are rated as to the number of hours of chilling required during winter for the tree to set fruit. These are the hours that the temp is lower than 45 F. Hope this helps. And no, I don't believe you are a dummy! Linda Guy, MG Consultaduck@aol.com wrote: > ARE DORSETT & EIN SHEMER SELF POLLINATING I LIVE IN CENTRAL LA. DOES > THE TERM REQUIRES LOW CHILL FIT THIS AREA, EXPLAIN THIS TERM TO ME --------------DC5C76319896831E2F8F5163 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The info you seek on chilling hours in your area would be best addressed by contacting our counterparts in your own county. Look for Cooperative Extension Service in the government listings of your phone book

According to our publication on deciduous fruits, MC-90, which you can order at
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm
Dorsett Golden is self fruitful with a chilling requirement of only 100 hours. The Ein Shemer was not listed for our low desert area.

Reading further in the Sunset Western Garden Book, despite some fruit trees claims to being self fruitful to varying degrees [and this included Ein Shemer], it was recommended that two or more varieties be planted for cross-fertilization and improved fruit set. Dorsett Golden, Ein Shemer and Anna were all said to be good pollenizers for each other.

Fruit trees are rated as to the number of hours of chilling required during winter for the tree to set fruit. These are the hours that the temp is lower than 45 F.

Hope this helps. And no, I don't believe you are a dummy!

Linda Guy, MG
 

Consultaduck@aol.com wrote:

ARE DORSETT & EIN SHEMER SELF POLLINATING  I LIVE IN  CENTRAL LA. DOES THE TERM REQUIRES LOW CHILL FIT THIS AREA, EXPLAIN THIS TERM TO ME
--------------DC5C76319896831E2F8F5163-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Mar 29 16:23:55 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 11:23:55 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite Trees dropping leaves Message-ID: <130.bd14f25.29d5ef1b@aol.com> --part1_130.bd14f25.29d5ef1b_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jim, Mesquite trees are deciduous which means it is normal for them to drop their leaves in the winter. Mine are just starting to leaf out again. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_130.bd14f25.29d5ef1b_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jim,

Mesquite trees are deciduous which means it is normal for them to drop their leaves in the winter. Mine are just starting to leaf out again.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_130.bd14f25.29d5ef1b_boundary-- From cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu Fri Mar 29 16:32:10 2002 From: cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu (Carol Noyes) Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 09:32:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plant Sale at Metro Tech High TODAY! Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020329093011.00aad8e0@ag.arizona.edu> Don't forget the great plant sale today only at Metro Tech High School, 1900 W. Thomas Rd, Phoenix. Great plants at great prices that will benefit the greenhouse and garden program at the school. From cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu Fri Mar 29 16:37:21 2002 From: cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu (Carol Noyes) Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 09:37:21 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Master Gardener Tour Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020329093213.00aad6c0@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_5898718==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Don't forget about the wonderful Master Gardener Tour, Saturday, March 30, 9:00am - 3:00pm. If you don't have tickets, you can go to the garden located at 2331 E. Edgewood Circle, Mesa (Cross streets are Gilbert Rd. and Southern Ave) and get them. The ticket books have the other garden addresses and directions printed on them. If you have any questions call 602-470-8086, ext. 308. --=====================_5898718==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Don't forget about the wonderful Master Gardener Tour, Saturday, March 30, 9:00am - 3:00pm. 

If you don't have tickets, you can go to the garden located at 2331 E. Edgewood Circle, Mesa (Cross streets are Gilbert Rd. and Southern Ave) and get them.  The ticket books have the other garden addresses and directions printed on them.  If you have any questions call 602-470-8086, ext. 308.
--=====================_5898718==_.ALT-- From epaigep@cox.net Fri Mar 29 16:37:58 2002 From: epaigep@cox.net (epaigep@cox.net) Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 09:37:58 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203291637.g2TGbwg17839@Ag.arizona.edu> I have lost 3 trees in the last two years (all planted in the same spot). The yard was professionally landscaped with dripper irrigation etc. I replanted the second and third trees myself. All different varieties. They all turned yellow and slowly lost their leaves until they died over a matter of weeks. I am in a new(two year old development) but I've dug out the old soil and replaced it twice. Any ideas on what else I can do? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Mar 29 16:58:26 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 11:58:26 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Trees have died Message-ID: --part1_a2.232190a9.29d5f732_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Improper irrigation causes a high percentage of tree failures here in the low desert. other Other causes could be improper pruning, soil that does not drain ( do you have caliche in your yard ) and compacted soil. Check out these sites for help on irrigation as well as planting and tree care: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/pruning.html http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/index.html Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_a2.232190a9.29d5f732_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Improper irrigation causes a high percentage of tree failures here in the low desert. other Other causes could be improper pruning, soil that does not drain ( do you have caliche in your yard ) and compacted soil.
Check out these sites for help on irrigation as well as planting and tree care:  http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html  http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/pruning.html
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/index.html

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist

--part1_a2.232190a9.29d5f732_boundary-- From fhersh@iopener.net Fri Mar 29 18:45:39 2002 From: fhersh@iopener.net (fhersh@iopener.net) Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 11:45:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203291845.g2TIjdg17176@Ag.arizona.edu> A formula in order to deter rabbits from nibbling on our roses and other plants? From pmmacisaac@aol.com Fri Mar 29 18:49:10 2002 From: pmmacisaac@aol.com (pmmacisaac@aol.com) Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 11:49:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203291849.g2TIn9g18032@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a 3 year old dwarf Flame Grapefruit grafted on a Flying Dragon.The first 2 years it blossomed beautifully but dropped most of its leaves.I was advised at the nursery that the cause was insufficient water.I increased the water frequency(I only spend the winter here)last summer and this year it has leafed out and grown very well,has maintained all its leaves but only produced 3 blooms on one tiny new branch. Could the problem be too much water? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Mar 29 21:42:27 2002 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 16:42:27 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus Message-ID: <129.efc6e01.29d639c3@aol.com> --part1_129.efc6e01.29d639c3_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Citrus do not bear fruit typically until they have been in the ground for 4 to 5 years. Your irrigation practice could be a problem causing the lack of blooms. Check out this site for info on watering citrus: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_129.efc6e01.29d639c3_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Citrus do not bear fruit typically until they have been in the ground for 4 to 5 years. Your irrigation practice could be a problem causing the lack of blooms.
Check out this site for info on watering citrus: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_129.efc6e01.29d639c3_boundary-- From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Sat Mar 30 02:43:12 2002 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 18:43:12 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question 3 dead trees In-Reply-To: <200203291637.g2TGbwg17839@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20020330024312.50540.qmail@web14907.mail.yahoo.com> Lost three trees, now the third degree.What kind of trees? where were they planted?-east side,west side?? How long do you run your drip system?How often do you run it? How many drippers are there to the tree? This info would sure help. --- epaigep@cox.net wrote: > I have lost 3 trees in the last two years (all > planted in the same spot). The yard was > professionally landscaped with dripper irrigation > etc. I replanted the second and third trees myself. > All different varieties. They all turned yellow and > slowly lost their leaves until they died over a > matter of weeks. > I am in a new(two year old development) but I've dug > out the old soil and replaced it twice. Any ideas on > what else I can do? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Greetings - send holiday greetings for Easter, Passover http://greetings.yahoo.com/ From gardenguru" Message-ID: <002a01c1d814$8314ab80$0c5494ce@ibm22761658747> Citrus needs alot of water to produce and hold fruit. They also need fert. 3 times a year. Your plant takes inventory several times a year to check to see if it has the root system and the branch sturcture to produce and hold fruit. If it does not, it will not produce blooms or it produces blooms and then later drops the small fruit. In order for your tree to produce quantities of blooms and develop and hold fruit, it must have developed the proper root system and branch structure. It order to do this, it needs proper irrigation and fertilizer over several years. Once it has developed these structures, it will continue to produce grapefruit year and year. The docs below are avail from the county for $1 each at the address below. They are not yet avail online but the publication web site is shown below and has many docs to assist in landscaping needs. An example of irrigation needs for citrus is a navel orange with a 10 canopy spread needs 80 to 115 gallons of water every 10 to 14 days in the spring. Frequency changes with the seasons but the qauntity of water changes with the size of your canopy. The docs below will guide you to the water need for you size trees. It is also important to expand your water basin as your tree grows. Citrus should be irrigated one foot insiide the drip line to one foot outside the dripline and keep water away from the trunk. It is also important to paint or wrap the trunk to protect it from sunburn. Doc 8670 covers fertilizing citrus. Grapefruit trees need half the nitrogen required for all other citrus. Too much nitrogen will cause your rinds to thicken. MC17 Citrus - Irrigation needs AZ1151 Citrus Trees - Irrigating MC08 Citrus Trees - Recovery of Neglected 8670 Citrus Trees in Arizona - Fertilizing Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Hope this help GG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, March 29, 2002 11:49 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I have a 3 year old dwarf Flame Grapefruit grafted on a Flying Dragon.The first 2 years it blossomed beautifully but dropped most of its leaves.I was advised at the nursery that the cause was insufficient water.I increased the water frequency(I only spend the winter here)last summer and this year it has leafed out and grown very well,has maintained all its leaves but only produced 3 blooms on one tiny new branch. > Could the problem be too much water? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From deanazca@yahoo.com Sat Mar 30 20:39:03 2002 From: deanazca@yahoo.com (deanazca@yahoo.com) Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 13:39:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203302039.g2UKd3g05520@Ag.arizona.edu> An animal, perhaps a gopher, has dug a hole in my garden. What could it be other than a gopher, and how should I deal with it? From gardenfrogs@hotmail.com Sat Mar 30 20:44:31 2002 From: gardenfrogs@hotmail.com (gardenfrogs@hotmail.com) Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 13:44:31 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203302044.g2UKiVg05961@Ag.arizona.edu> Is it o.k. to have slugs in the compost pile? Are they a symptom of over-moist compost? From Shiu@tds.net Sun Mar 31 01:10:39 2002 From: Shiu@tds.net (Shiu@tds.net) Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 18:10:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200203310110.g2V1Adg27633@Ag.arizona.edu> I am looking for any information on a tree that is a hybred and the name of it is called a Androscoggin--it is a very fst growing tree and I am looking for any informatio on how well it will do in the phoenix area and anything else that is available on this tree. Thank you for your help From drew_linda@ho