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I hope you guys do not mind the "out of the blue" email.
My name is Sonny Malone and I am the director of Sales at Monty's Plant =
Food Company. While surfing the internet looking for information, I ran =
across questions and answers regarding Ironite and it's potential metal =
content.
I just wanted to pass along our website information for your review of =
our product Monty's Joy Juice. Unique name and unique product. It is 98% =
organic, very high in iron, will not burn regardless how much or how =
often it is used.=20
We were recently approved for sale in the state of Washington, which I =
am told has some of the most stringent guidelines concerning metal =
content.
If you have any questions, please feel free to email me or call=20
(502) 489-9888
Again, I hope the abrupt email wasn't an inconveinence.
www.montysjoyjuice.com
Thanks,
Sonny Malone
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I hope you guys do not mind the "out of =
the blue"=20
email.
My name is Sonny Malone and I am the =
director of=20
Sales at Monty's Plant Food Company. While surfing the internet looking =
for=20
information, I ran across questions and answers regarding Ironite and =
it's=20
potential metal content.
I just wanted to pass along our website =
information=20
for your review of our product Monty's Joy Juice. Unique name and unique =
product. It is 98% organic, very high in iron, will not burn regardless =
how much=20
or how often it is used.
We were recently approved for sale in =
the state of=20
Washington, which I am told has some of the most stringent guidelines =
concerning=20
metal content.
If you have any questions, please feel =
free to=20
email me or call
(502) 489-9888
Again, I hope the abrupt email wasn't =
an=20
inconveinence.
www.montysjoyjuice.com<=
/DIV>
Thanks,
Sonny Malone
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From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Tue May 14 21:22:24 2002
From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 14:22:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: really pumped dogs
In-Reply-To: <200205141624.JAA04362@ocotillo.as.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <20020514212224.62104.qmail@web14906.mail.yahoo.com>
Sorry Don,Didn't write what I read.
^^^ the dogs heart beats 40 times a minute faster than
yuors. Sounds better.
--- Don Garnett
wrote:
>
> ^^^
> Your dogs heart beats 40 times faster than yours.
> ^^^
>
> Let's see... a human heart beats at 60-70 beats per
> minute...
> 40 times that is about 2500 beats per minute.
>
> That dog would be revving like a lawn mower!
>
> Not sure about that one... :^)
> but the other items are pretty cool!
>
> cheers
> Don G.
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
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From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Tue May 14 21:26:14 2002
From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 14:26:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Loud mouth radio
Message-ID: <20020514212614.655.qmail@web14905.mail.yahoo.com>
Cactus jack will be on radio Sunday 19th on:
KNIX 6:00am
KYOT 6:ooam
KOY 6:30am
Listen and laugh
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
http://launch.yahoo.com
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue May 14 21:50:35 2002
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 17:50:35 EDT
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Brazilian Pepper Tree with yellow leaves
Message-ID: <108.11bf2723.2a12e0ab@aol.com>
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Improper irrigation probably kills more trees and plants than any other
single factor. You may be applying enough total water weekly but it should be
applied at one time. Your pepper tree will have ample water if the entire
root zone is deep watered once a week even during the hottest part of summer.
By deep watering we mean the water must penetrate to a depth of 3 feet. If
you haven't moved the drippers out near the dripline of the tree it is time
to do so and you would be wise to add 2 or 3 more drippers so that the entire
root zone gets watered.
Once a year fertilizing with amonium sulfate will give the tree the nitrogen
it needs.
An excellent resource for info on irrigation is a booklet titled LANDSCAPE
WATERING BY THE NUMBERS and available free from the Water Conservatio Office
of most of the cities in the valley as well as some nurseries. On line is
another great resource at:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
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Improper irrigation probably kills more trees and plants than any other single factor. You may be applying enough total water weekly but it should be applied at one time. Your pepper tree will have ample water if the entire root zone is deep watered once a week even during the hottest part of summer. By deep watering we mean the water must penetrate to a depth of 3 feet. If you haven't moved the drippers out near the dripline of the tree it is time to do so and you would be wise to add 2 or 3 more drippers so that the entire root zone gets watered.
Once a year fertilizing with amonium sulfate will give the tree the nitrogen it needs.
An excellent resource for info on irrigation is a booklet titled LANDSCAPE WATERING BY THE NUMBERS and available free from the Water Conservatio Office of most of the cities in the valley as well as some nurseries. On line is another great resource at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
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From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue May 14 22:03:44 2002
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 18:03:44 EDT
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: water queen palm
Message-ID: <98.25db0b70.2a12e3c0@aol.com>
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Chuck,
Palms and especially queen palms should be fertilized 3 to 4 times a year
with a special palm fertilizer, if you are not doing this then it is no doubt
the problem with the palm tree looks. The Water Conservation Office of most
of the cities in the valley as well as many nurseries have available free a
booklet titled LANDSCSPE WATERING BY THE NUMBERS which has detailed info on
watering landscape plants.
Also check out this site for additional info on irrigation:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
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Chuck,
Palms and especially queen palms should be fertilized 3 to 4 times a year with a special palm fertilizer, if you are not doing this then it is no doubt the problem with the palm tree looks. The Water Conservation Office of most of the cities in the valley as well as many nurseries have available free a booklet titled LANDSCSPE WATERING BY THE NUMBERS which has detailed info on watering landscape plants.
Also check out this site for additional info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
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From GNHT@aol.com Tue May 14 22:04:05 2002
From: GNHT@aol.com (GNHT@aol.com)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 15:04:05 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200205142204.g4EM45R09643@Ag.arizona.edu>
I have a creeping fig vine growing up a shamel ash tree and it has climbed quite high. I want to know if it is a danger to my tree.
From gypsy6500@mindspring.com Wed May 15 02:42:43 2002
From: gypsy6500@mindspring.com (gypsy6500@mindspring.com)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 19:42:43 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200205150242.g4F2ghR23218@Ag.arizona.edu>
I live in West Phoenix. could I possibly grow gourds here?
From inksparrow@usa.net Wed May 15 13:38:56 2002
From: inksparrow@usa.net (D Sparrow)
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 06:38:56 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] [MG] Volunteers for Outdoor Arizona
Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020515063847.01d05708@ag.arizona.edu>
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I just met a member of Volunteers for Outdoor Arizona.
It looks like a real nice group. They have a variety of projects, some
very plant oriented and of course, trail maintenance. There are events for
both adults and children.
If you want to know more, their website is
www.dgcenter.org/voa
Volunteers for Outdoor Arizona
4250 E Camelback Rd, #185K
Phoenix, AZ 85018
602.522.9127
For a sample of what they do, two recent projects are described here:
On Saturday, April 27, celebrate Ulysses S Grant's birthday and help start
the deck construction project at the Boyce Thompson Arboretum. These project
has several more work dates in May, if April 27 is not open for you.
Carpenters are need. Some of us with absolutely no skills are needed also.
On Saturday May 4, celebrate Thomas Henry Huxley's birthday and rescue some
beautiful endangered cacti at the Pickpost Trailhead of the Arizona Trail.
This half-day event will conclude with an ice cream social at the Boyce
Thompson Arboretum.
D Sparrow
--=====================_1915324==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
I just met a member of Volunteers for Outdoor
Arizona.
It looks like a real nice group. They have a variety of projects,
some very plant oriented and of course, trail maintenance. There
are events for both adults and children.
If you want to know more, their website is
www.dgcenter.org/voa
Volunteers for Outdoor Arizona
4250 E Camelback Rd, #185K
Phoenix, AZ 85018
602.522.9127
For a sample of what they do, two recent projects are described
here:
On Saturday, April 27, celebrate Ulysses S Grant's birthday and help
start
the deck construction project at the Boyce Thompson Arboretum. These
project
has several more work dates in May, if April 27 is not open for you.
Carpenters are need. Some of us with absolutely no skills are needed
also.
On Saturday May 4, celebrate Thomas Henry Huxley's birthday and rescue
some
beautiful endangered cacti at the Pickpost Trailhead of the Arizona
Trail.
This half-day event will conclude with an ice cream social at the Boyce
Thompson Arboretum.
D Sparrow
--=====================_1915324==_.ALT--
From dans@terrainsystems.com Wed May 15 19:02:45 2002
From: dans@terrainsystems.com (dans@terrainsystems.com)
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 12:02:45 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200205151902.g4FJ2jR09993@Ag.arizona.edu>
What is general/recommended care of Date Palms after installation?
From mishelle@usscreen.com Wed May 15 19:06:13 2002
From: mishelle@usscreen.com (Mishelle Fresener)
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 12:06:13 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Composting Verticillium Wilt
Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20020515115523.0291f6d0@mail.usscreen.com>
Hello,
I have a tomato plant that I suspect has that I suspect has Verticillium
Wilt. It's in a container that had previously over wintered tomatoes in it.
My question is, can I compost this soil and the plants?
Thanks,
Mishelle
From GNHT@aol.com Wed May 15 21:13:56 2002
From: GNHT@aol.com (GNHT@aol.com)
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 17:13:56 EDT
Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject)
Message-ID: <190.713e2c5.2a142994@aol.com>
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Confirm 960317
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Confirm 960317
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From kmoore@Ag.arizona.edu Wed May 15 22:22:17 2002
From: kmoore@Ag.arizona.edu (Kathleen Moore)
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 15:22:17 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Humming Bird and Butterfly Gardening Class
Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020515151730.00ad46a0@ag.arizona.edu>
Do you love humming birds and butterflies? Do you want to know more about
how to make your back yard a wildlife habitat? Here is your chance!
The Maricopa County Master Gardeners will be offering a Humming Bird and
Butterfly Class this Saturday May 18, 2002 from 9-12:00 pm at the Main
Extension office 4341 E. Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040.
The cost of the class is $15.00 and can be paid by cash or check to the
University of Arizona. Payment is accepted on the day of the
class. Please call (602) 470-8086 x309 to register.
From sjbass@qwest.net Wed May 15 23:13:49 2002
From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass)
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 16:13:49 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Care of Date Palms
References: <200205151902.g4FJ2jR09993@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <3CE2EBAD.910A16F7@qwest.net>
You can view our publication on palms by going to:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf
Sue Bass
dans@terrainsystems.com wrote:
> What is general/recommended care of Date Palms after installation?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed May 15 23:20:45 2002
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com)
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 19:20:45 EDT
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palm tree care
Message-ID: <172.8591d14.2a14474d@aol.com>
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The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension has an excellent bulletin on
palm care and is available on line at:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
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The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension has an excellent bulletin on palm care and is available on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
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From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu May 16 01:55:33 2002
From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin)
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 18:55:33 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
References: <200205151902.g4FJ2jR09993@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <002101c1fc7c$cb8638c0$e750530c@j0r9501>
There is an out-of-print Maricopa County CES Pub. No. 8330, "Growing and
Processing Dates", that contains the requested information. It is too
lengthy to include in the email body and attachments are not permitted
on this email list. But you can view the text at the temporary
location:
http://home.att.net/~millero/dates.htm
Olin
----- Original Message ----- From:
> What is general/recommended care of Date Palms after installation?
From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Thu May 16 04:12:55 2002
From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake)
Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 21:12:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] More did you know???
Message-ID: <20020516041255.4478.qmail@web14911.mail.yahoo.com>
Earthworms have five hearts.
^^^
The only domestic animal not mentioned in the Bible is
the cat.
^^^
The male mosquito does not bite- only the female does.
^^^
This ones for the girls. A female African elephant can
be pregnant for almost two years.
^^^
A cow can give 100 quarts of milk per week.
^^^
The world's biggest clams weigh almost five hundred
pounds.
^^^
Another for the gals-The strongest muscle in your body
is your tongue.
^^^
The eggplant was a "mad apple" and believed to be
poisonous in the 1800s.
__________________________________________________
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LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
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From lizmiles@cox.net Thu May 16 14:57:45 2002
From: lizmiles@cox.net (lizmiles@cox.net)
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 07:57:45 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200205161457.g4GEvjR27660@Ag.arizona.edu>
I hope someone can help: I am having a problem with very very tiny ants on my kitchen counters and in the bathroom. Could they be coming up through the drains? Can anyone tell me what they are and how to get rid of them? I have read about a boric acid solution, but don't know if it refers to a liquid or a powdered boric acid.
Thanks,
Liz Miles
From mrthsanchez@aol.com Thu May 16 15:36:09 2002
From: mrthsanchez@aol.com (mrthsanchez@aol.com)
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 08:36:09 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200205161536.g4GFa9R04785@Ag.arizona.edu>
What happened to the peach crop this year? I've noticed that not many U'pick places are listed in the paper this year.
From GNHT@aol.com Thu May 16 16:13:42 2002
From: GNHT@aol.com (GNHT@aol.com)
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 12:13:42 EDT
Subject: [Arid_gardener] fig vine
Message-ID: <12a.11472c37.2a1534b6@aol.com>
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Is there a danger if a fig vine grows up a shamel ash treee?
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Is there a danger if a fig vine grows up a shamel ash treee?
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From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Thu May 16 16:56:42 2002
From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake)
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 09:56:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
In-Reply-To: <200205161457.g4GEvjR27660@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <20020516165642.80284.qmail@web14904.mail.yahoo.com>
Its unlikly the ants are comung up the drain. Ants
have a very strong sense of smell. If you can follow
the trail back to their entrance, it will probably be
under a door or crack somewhere.Boric acid powder will
work. Also a prodict called AMDRO for ants is good.
Its a sweet poison food they take back to the colony
and in a few days the whole colony is dead.
--- lizmiles@cox.net wrote:
> I hope someone can help: I am having a problem with
> very very tiny ants on my kitchen counters and in
> the bathroom. Could they be coming up through the
> drains? Can anyone tell me what they are and how to
> get rid of them? I have read about a boric acid
> solution, but don't know if it refers to a liquid or
> a powdered boric acid.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Liz Miles
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
http://launch.yahoo.com
From earthsend@hotmail.com Thu May 16 17:49:27 2002
From: earthsend@hotmail.com (earthsend@hotmail.com)
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 10:49:27 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200205161749.g4GHnRR04852@Ag.arizona.edu>
My tops of my tomato leaves are turning yellow then brown and die, they are shadow during the noon day sun and after noon sun.
They are producing alot of tomatos, but may not for long as the plant slowly looks like it is dying from the top...
Your suggestions would be greatly appreciated... 623-764-0684, I will try to send you a few pictures (.jpg) for your review, may be from my other E-mail ACCT. tawiersma@cox.net
From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu May 16 21:10:02 2002
From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy)
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 14:10:02 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Composting Verticillium Wilt PLants
References: <5.1.0.14.0.20020515115523.0291f6d0@mail.usscreen.com>
Message-ID: <3CE42029.9F400AEE@qwest.net>
As a general rule, unless you are an exceptionally fine composter who actively
manages her pile to extended periods of high heat, I would never recommend
putting diseased plants in your compost. Our website summary says to destroy
the plants, even though this is a soil-borne pathogen. Better to be safe......
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/vertcllm.htm
Linda Guy, MG
Mishelle Fresener wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I have a tomato plant that I suspect has that I suspect has Verticillium
> Wilt. It's in a container that had previously over wintered tomatoes in it.
> My question is, can I compost this soil and the plants?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mishelle
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu May 16 21:16:26 2002
From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy)
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 14:16:26 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Creeping Fig
References: <200205142204.g4EM45R09643@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <3CE421AA.CC3F295C@qwest.net>
Everyone loves the look of the tiny juvenile leaves of the creeping fig. But over time the growth gets woody and decidedly changes
appearance [which I don't personally prefer]. To kill two birds with one stone [prevent any potential for longterm damage to the tree
and rejuvenate the vine] I would suggest pruning it back at least every other year.
Linda Guy, MG
GNHT@aol.com wrote:
> I have a creeping fig vine growing up a shamel ash tree and it has climbed quite high. I want to know if it is a danger to my tree.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu May 16 21:17:48 2002
From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy)
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 14:17:48 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gourds
References: <200205150242.g4F2ghR23218@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <3CE421FC.C57EC5F9@qwest.net>
Gourds will surely grow here, and a fellow Master Gardener is a
principal member of the local SW Gourd Association.
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/gourd.htm
Linda Guy, MG
gypsy6500@mindspring.com wrote:
> I live in West Phoenix. could I possibly grow gourds here?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu May 16 21:20:09 2002
From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy)
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 14:20:09 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tomato Diagnosis
References: <200205161749.g4GHnRR04852@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <3CE42289.6CE16271@qwest.net>
Sounds like curly top to me. Compare your plant's symptoms to the discussions at
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/curly-tp.htm
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/leaf-hop.htm
Linda Guy, MG
earthsend@hotmail.com wrote:
> My tops of my tomato leaves are turning yellow then brown and die, they are shadow during the noon day sun and after noon sun.
> They are producing alot of tomatos, but may not for long as the plant slowly looks like it is dying from the top...
> Your suggestions would be greatly appreciated... 623-764-0684, I will try to send you a few pictures (.jpg) for your review, may be from my other E-mail ACCT. tawiersma@cox.net
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From dhcarole@earthlink.net Thu May 16 21:28:14 2002
From: dhcarole@earthlink.net (dhcarole@earthlink.net)
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 14:28:14 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200205162128.g4GLSER27801@Ag.arizona.edu>
I am trying to do my own yard work and I do not know what I am doing. Can you recomend some where to take classes on landscaping.
From mishelle@usscreen.com Thu May 16 22:33:23 2002
From: mishelle@usscreen.com (Mishelle Fresener)
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 15:33:23 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Botanical Latin
Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20020516153108.032bea20@mail.usscreen.com>
Hi all,
A while back someone posted about a book called "Botanical Latin" by
WIlliam Stern. They said it was about $45.00. I just found the score of the
week! I bought a used one at www.amazon.com for $22.95! There were six used
books listed for sale. Just thought I'd pass it on.
Mishelle Fresener
From betsylynn@citlink.net Fri May 17 01:35:24 2002
From: betsylynn@citlink.net (betsylynn@citlink.net)
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 18:35:24 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200205170135.g4H1ZOR10460@Ag.arizona.edu>
I have a raised bed vegetable garden in Flagstaff. I already add mulch, manure and compost I have manufactured to the soil before planting in the spring, but want to know more about ammonium sulfate and ammonium phosphate. What's the difference, and do I add one or both of these before planting and in what amounts?
From betsylynn@citlink.net Fri May 17 01:37:32 2002
From: betsylynn@citlink.net (betsylynn@citlink.net)
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 18:37:32 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200205170137.g4H1bWR10758@Ag.arizona.edu>
I have a raised bed vegetable garden in Flagstaff. I already add mulch, manure and compost I have manufactured to the soil before planting in the spring, but want to know more about ammonium sulfate and ammonium phosphate. What's the difference, and do I add one or both of these before planting and in what amounts?
Sincerely, Betsy Snow
From millero@cybercom.net Fri May 17 03:11:00 2002
From: millero@cybercom.net (olin)
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 20:11:00 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
References: <200205161749.g4GHnRR04852@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <002c01c1fd50$7c746b60$cc50530c@j0r9501>
Probably Fusarium Wilt: Photo at
http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/3000/3122.html
Not much you can do about it at this stage. Usual remedy is to rotate
planting and plant resistant varieties.
Possibly Curly Top Virus: Photo at:
http://ag.arizona.edu/yavapai/diagnostics/diagphotos/curlytopvirus.jpg
Curly Top is usually vectored by beet leaf hoppers that live on many
plants and weeds and are very mobile. Usually more of a problem
following a wet spring when populations are greater. Usual remedy is
prevention by shading the plants because the leaf hoppers prefer the
warm sun. Exclusion using ReMay sometimes also works but that
contributes to heat buildup which may not be desirable.
Olin Miller
Reply to: millero at worldnet dot att dot net
----- Original Message ----- From:
> My tops of my tomato leaves are turning yellow then brown and die,
they are shadow during the noon day sun and after noon sun.
> They are producing alot of tomatos, but may not for long as the plant
slowly looks like it is dying from the top...
> Your suggestions would be greatly appreciated... 623-764-0684, I will
try to send you a few pictures (.jpg) for your review, may be from my
other E-mail ACCT. tawiersma@cox.net
From jnknavarro@cs.com Fri May 17 14:26:36 2002
From: jnknavarro@cs.com (jnknavarro@cs.com)
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 07:26:36 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200205171426.g4HEQaR05897@Ag.arizona.edu>
I have an agave atenuatta in a pot. It is rather large and getting weak looking and yellowing at the base of the leaves. I seem to be following any guidelines I find with regard to water and exposure but I could be wrong. I let it dry outbefore watering and It has limited southern exposure. I am desperate to save this beautiful plant.
Kristian
From Andra.Williams@asu.edu Fri May 17 17:59:02 2002
From: Andra.Williams@asu.edu (Andra Williams)
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 10:59:02 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] FW: [Fwd: vol birders needed]
Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020517105832.01d3b9c0@ag.arizona.edu>
--=====================_9389441==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
-----Original Message-----
From: John (EBo) David
[mailto:ebo@leml.la.asu.edu]
Sent: Friday, May 17, 2002 1:43 AM
To: Andra Williams
Subject: [Fwd: vol birders needed]
Volunteers needed for a groundtruthing exercise to determine the
accuracy of 18 habitat models of neotropical migrants and resident birds
in
the Pinalenos Mtns. This is the final phase in a two year project to
model
bird habitat using Geographic Information Systems.I will be working on
the
Pinalenos from 12 May -29 June. We will be working in the three major
vegetation zones (oak juniper, pine oak and mixed coniferous). Due to
the
issue of observer bias, we would ideally prefer volunteers willing to
work
longer durations rather than shorter ones. We will be maintaining a 10
day
on, 4 day off work schedule. If you know if anyone who may be willing to
volunteer, I would really appreciate you circulating this email for me.
> > Any help you can provide will be greatly appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> >
> > JJ Wynne
> > ^''^ ^''^ ^''^ ^''^ ^''^ ^''^ ^''^ ^''^ ^''^ ^''^ ^''^ ^''^
> > J. Judson Wynne
> > Landscape Ecology and Conservation Biology Laboratory
> > Center for Environmental Science and Education
> > Northern Arizona University
> > Wynne
website:
http://www.dana.ucc.nau.edu/~jjg32
> > LECB:
http://www.nau.edu/~envsci/sisklab/index.htm
> > Flagstaff, AZ 86011-5694
> > Tel (520)523-9333
> > Fax (520)523-7423
--=====================_9389441==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
-----Original Message-----
From: John (EBo) David
[mailto:ebo@leml.la.asu.edu]
Sent: Friday, May 17, 2002 1:43 AM
To: Andra Williams
Subject: [Fwd: vol birders needed]
Volunteers needed for a groundtruthing exercise to determine
the
accuracy of 18 habitat models of neotropical migrants and
resident birds
in
the Pinalenos Mtns. This is the final phase in a two
year project to
model
bird habitat using Geographic Information Systems.I will be
working on
the
Pinalenos from 12 May -29 June. We will be working in
the three major
vegetation zones (oak juniper, pine oak and mixed
coniferous). Due to
the
issue of observer bias, we would ideally prefer volunteers
willing to
work
longer durations rather than shorter ones. We will be
maintaining a 10
day
on, 4 day off work schedule. If you know if anyone who may
be willing to
volunteer, I would really appreciate you circulating this
email for me.
> > Any help you can provide will be greatly
appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> >
> > JJ Wynne
> > ^''^ ^''^ ^''^ ^''^ ^''^ ^''^ ^''^ ^''^ ^''^ ^''^
^''^ ^''^
> > J. Judson Wynne
> > Landscape Ecology and Conservation Biology
Laboratory
> > Center for Environmental Science and
Education
> > Northern Arizona University
> > Wynne website:
http://www.dana.ucc.nau.edu/~jjg32
> > LECB: http://www.nau.edu/~envsci/sisklab/index.htm
> > Flagstaff, AZ 86011-5694
> > Tel (520)523-9333
> > Fax (520)523-7423
--=====================_9389441==_.ALT--
From donschlander@hotmail.com Fri May 17 18:06:56 2002
From: donschlander@hotmail.com (donschlander@hotmail.com)
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 11:06:56 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200205171806.g4HI6uR19665@Ag.arizona.edu>
I have 2 weeds in a transitioning tiff lawn - one I believe is oxaylis and the other johnson grass. How do I treat these?
From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri May 17 23:18:57 2002
From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew)
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 23:18:57 +0000
Subject: [Arid_gardener] lawn weeds
Message-ID:
If you have a small number of weeds, digging them out by hand is
the most effective way to get rid of them. Then get the lawn healthy;
a healthy lawn will choke out weeds.
If you have too many weeds to do this, you can selectively spray
the weeds with glyphosate (Roundup), but ONLY on the weed; otherwise
surrounding turf will be killed as well.
The herbicide 2,4-D will selectively kill broadleaf weeds (like
the oxalis) without killing the grass when it is properly applied.
It will not, however, get rid of the johnson grass.
Following is another response to an earlier question.
Linda Drew
Master Gardener
-------------
I've always dug them out of my lawn. Perhaps a good strategy for now would
be to mow them to remove any flowers and seeds, before attempting the next
step.
A systemic including glyphosate [e.g. Roundup] would kill everything it
touched, not just the weeds. [While I try to adhere to organic practices as
much as I can, I will use this in areas where I'm
attempting to eradicate bermuda, as in a yard conversion.]
Here are some organic suppliers you can thumb through:
http://www.groworganic.com/
http://www.biconet.com/lawn.html
http://www.gardensalive.com/index.asp?
The best weed control is a very healthy lawn. You might want to review the
Master Gardener Manual's chapter on turf at
http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/
Good luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
From jabaade@azstarnet.com Fri May 17 23:30:08 2002
From: jabaade@azstarnet.com (John A. Baade)
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 16:30:08 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tomatoes dying from bottom up.
Message-ID: <3CE59280.74465BB4@azstarnet.com>
My tomato plants are dying from the bottom up. The lower leaves turn
yellow and then dry up. The plants grew vigorously when first planted
but have stopped growing. I water them daily on a drip system. I
fertilize relatively heavily with Miracle Grow. Plants I planted later
are now showing the same symptoms as the ones I planted earlier I have
had great success with tomatoes in the past growing them in the same
place and cultivating them in the same way, but the same thing happened
last year. I planted in different raised beds this year, but it is
happening again. Thanks for any help you can give me.
From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri May 17 23:33:58 2002
From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew)
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 23:33:58 +0000
Subject: [Arid_gardener] vegetable garden
Message-ID:
Sounds like you are doing a terrific job preparing your beds!
ammonium sulfate is a source of nitrogen (21-0-0) that also contains
sulfur to temporarily lower the soil alkalinity (pH)
ammonium phosphate is a source of nitrogen and phosphorus (16-20-0)
Ammonium phosphate is usually used in vegetable gardens because you
need phosphorus as well as nitrogen for healthy plants and fruit.
(Plants also need potassium , the third number in the formula, but
our soils have enough without needing to add it).
Recommendations for fertilizing vegetables are usually stated as:
"apply 3 to 4 pounds of 5-10-10 fertilizer per 1000 square feet
of garden space". For a 16-20-0 fertilizer, that would be about
one pound per 1000 square feet.
For more information, read the chapters in the Master Gardener
Manual on "Soils" and on "Vegetable Garden". (or send us a note :-)
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/index.html
Linda Drew
Master Gardener
>From: betsylynn@citlink.net
>To:
>Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 18:37:32 -0700 (MST)
>
>I have a raised bed vegetable garden in Flagstaff. I already add mulch,
>manure and compost I have manufactured to the soil before planting in the
>spring, but want to know more about ammonium sulfate and ammonium
>phosphate. What's the difference, and do I add one or both of these before
>planting and in what amounts?
>
>Sincerely, Betsy Snow
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
_________________________________________________________________
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri May 17 23:41:19 2002
From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew)
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 23:41:19 +0000
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Agave attenuata
Message-ID:
I'm sure you do not want to lose such a beautiful plant.
Can you give us more information to help figure out what is
happening:
how long have you been taking care of this plant
how long has it been in the container
does the container have good drainage (i.e. not sitting in a saucer)
is the soil a 'cactus mix' (i.e. lots of sand, gravel, pumice for drainage)
when did you first notice the yellowing
is the yellowing just at the base of the plant
is the container indoors or outdoors; has it been moved recently
Linda Drew
Master Gardener
>From: jnknavarro@cs.com
>To:
>Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 07:26:36 -0700 (MST)
>
>I have an agave atenuatta in a pot. It is rather large and getting weak
>looking and yellowing at the base of the leaves. I seem to be following any
>guidelines I find with regard to water and exposure but I could be wrong. I
>let it dry outbefore watering and It has limited southern exposure. I am
>desperate to save this beautiful plant.
>
>Kristian
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
From AZamigo@aol.com Sat May 18 00:26:24 2002
From: AZamigo@aol.com (AZamigo@aol.com)
Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 17:26:24 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200205180026.g4I0QOR28349@Ag.arizona.edu>
I have an 81' long strip of land between the street and the sidewalk by my house. The area is 3 feet wide. I want to plant dwarf oleanders in this area to add color since all there is now is just gravel. How many one gallon dwarf oleanders should I plant? Is spring a better time to plant these-should I wait until next March?Thanks
From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat May 18 02:21:52 2002
From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew)
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 02:21:52 +0000
Subject: [Arid_gardener] dwarf oleander
Message-ID:
I am just speaking from information found in reference
books; I'm sure others with hands-on experience will
also reply..........
Be sure of the particular variety of dwarf oleander that
you purchase. For example, 'Little Red' grows to about
3 feet by 3 feet. You would need to plant about 25-27
one gallon plants on 3 foot centers to completely fill
the space ( 3x27=81 feet).
Other varieties such as 'Petite Salmon' and 'Petite Pink'
grow to 3 to 6 feet high and wide. These would require
regular pruning to keep them within the 3 foot strip, but
you could probably plant on 6 foot centers and need 13-15
one gallon plants.
This is assuming you would want a solid hedge of plants.
If you want open space between the plants you could of
course plant fewer plants.
If you can, I would wait until October to plant. Howver,
oleander is tough and could probably withstand transplant
now (or after the monsoons begin), if properly taken care of.
Again, others with actual expereince will have better answers
for you.
Linda Drew
Master Gardener
>From: AZamigo@aol.com
>To:
>Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 17:26:24 -0700 (MST)
>
>I have an 81' long strip of land between the street and the sidewalk by my
>house. The area is 3 feet wide. I want to plant dwarf oleanders in this
>area to add color since all there is now is just gravel. How many one
>gallon dwarf oleanders should I plant? Is spring a better time to plant
>these-should I wait until next March?Thanks
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
_________________________________________________________________
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From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat May 18 02:30:01 2002
From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew)
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 02:30:01 +0000
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tomatoes dying from bottom up.
Message-ID:
Here are answers to an earlier question that may give you a
starting place to look for answers:
-----
Here is a link to better help you identify your problems. In general, these
can be located under the index function on our home page
Verticillium wilt
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/vertcllm.htm
If this is what you have, you will unfortunately need to destroy the plants.
You are also welcome to bring samples to the Cooperative Extension office
for diagnosis [you will be called once the weekly committee has met and
reviewed your problem] or to the satellite office nearest you. Addresses are
on the page where you posted your question.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
---------
I believe your plants may be old and at the end of their bearing
period. The older lower foliage on my tomatoes always dies off
first and I have always believed it was normal. It happens more
with indeterminates
Many tomato blights can spread. A common disease here in the
valley is Curly Top Virus (aka Western Yellow Blight) which is
transmitted to other plants by insects. See
http://home.att.net/~millero/tomatodiseases.html
for more information about tomato problems.
Good Luck,
Olin
>From: "John A. Baade"
>Reply-To: jabaade@azstarnet.com
>To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
>Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tomatoes dying from bottom up.
>Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 16:30:08 -0700
>
>My tomato plants are dying from the bottom up. The lower leaves turn
>yellow and then dry up. The plants grew vigorously when first planted
>but have stopped growing. I water them daily on a drip system. I
>fertilize relatively heavily with Miracle Grow. Plants I planted later
>are now showing the same symptoms as the ones I planted earlier I have
>had great success with tomatoes in the past growing them in the same
>place and cultivating them in the same way, but the same thing happened
>last year. I planted in different raised beds this year, but it is
>happening again. Thanks for any help you can give me.
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
From Jonathan Kandell"
Message-ID: <005301c1fe28$3d133360$6839bbd0@oemcomputer>
Olin, how long to most tomatoes last? Don't indeterminates keep going....?
Olin said,
> I believe your plants may be old and at the end of their bearing
> period. The older lower foliage on my tomatoes always dies off
> first and I have always believed it was normal. It happens more
> with indeterminates
From rsedholm@yahoo.com Sat May 18 15:04:40 2002
From: rsedholm@yahoo.com (rsedholm@yahoo.com)
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 08:04:40 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200205181504.g4IF4ZR16527@Ag.arizona.edu>
RE GRAPEFRUIT & ORANGE TREES IN MESA:
1. HOW MANY CROPS A YEAR DO THEY HAVE?
2. WHEN IS THE BEST TIME FOR PRUNING
From indy9231@attbi.com Sat May 18 16:48:29 2002
From: indy9231@attbi.com (John Neely)
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 09:48:29 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject)
Message-ID:
From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat May 18 17:22:56 2002
From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew)
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 17:22:56 +0000
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus care
Message-ID:
Grapefruit and Orange trees produce one crop a year.
They bloom in spring and develop fruit during the summer
and fall. Fruit are typically harvested December-March,
but exact time depends on the variety you are growing.
Citrus are usually not pruned except to remove dead
branches and hazards (growing into power lines, walks, etc).
Citrus are very susceptible to sun scald and care should
be taken to maintain shaded branches and trunks. Citrus
typically grow as a large shrub rather than a tree.
More information is available online:
irrigating citrus
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf
list of citrus publications
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm
citrus publications online
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Citrus
Univ. of Arizona publishes an excellent bulletin titled Citrus trees in the
Home Garden which should answer most of your questions about citrus and is
available for $1.00 from Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E.
Broadway, Phoenix 85040.
Linda Drew
Master Gardener
>From: rsedholm@yahoo.com
>To:
>Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 08:04:40 -0700 (MST)
>
>RE GRAPEFRUIT & ORANGE TREES IN MESA:
>1. HOW MANY CROPS A YEAR DO THEY HAVE?
>2. WHEN IS THE BEST TIME FOR PRUNING
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
_________________________________________________________________
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From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Sat May 18 19:33:00 2002
From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake)
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 12:33:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question on agave
In-Reply-To: <200205171426.g4HEQaR05897@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <20020518193300.46070.qmail@web14912.mail.yahoo.com>
If the agave has been in the present pot for a year or
more, repot in a pot at least 2 sizes larger.It sounds
like it is root bound.
--- jnknavarro@cs.com wrote:
> I have an agave atenuatta in a pot. It is rather
> large and getting weak looking and yellowing at the
> base of the leaves. I seem to be following any
> guidelines I find with regard to water and exposure
> but I could be wrong. I let it dry outbefore
> watering and It has limited southern exposure. I am
> desperate to save this beautiful plant.
>
> Kristian
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
__________________________________________________
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LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
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From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Sat May 18 19:42:20 2002
From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake)
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 12:42:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tomatoes dying from bottom up.
In-Reply-To: <3CE59280.74465BB4@azstarnet.com>
Message-ID: <20020518194220.92439.qmail@web14907.mail.yahoo.com>
I think the answer is in watering. You should be
running your drip system longer as the roots are now
deeper than when they were small. At the amse time ,
you are running the drip system to often. If the
system is run for at least 5-6 hours you should be
watering every 3-4 day. In this heat, you should check
the plants in the AM and see if they are drooping, if
so ,they need water. It really sounds like you are
doning 2 things wrong. Not watering deep enough and
watering too often.
--- "John A. Baade" wrote:
> My tomato plants are dying from the bottom up. The
> lower leaves turn
> yellow and then dry up. The plants grew vigorously
> when first planted
> but have stopped growing. I water them daily on a
> drip system. I
> fertilize relatively heavily with Miracle Grow.
> Plants I planted later
> are now showing the same symptoms as the ones I
> planted earlier I have
> had great success with tomatoes in the past growing
> them in the same
> place and cultivating them in the same way, but the
> same thing happened
> last year. I planted in different raised beds this
> year, but it is
> happening again. Thanks for any help you can give
> me.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
__________________________________________________
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LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
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From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Sat May 18 19:49:49 2002
From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake)
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 12:49:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] dwarf oleanders
In-Reply-To: <200205180026.g4I0QOR28349@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <20020518194949.47267.qmail@web14912.mail.yahoo.com>
As a rule, dwarf oleanders will get between 4-5 feet
wide. This can be your guide. They can take heat so
you can plant them now. Be sure to water to a depth of
at least 2 feet deep every 3-4 days till you see
healthy new growth then water deep about once a week.
--- AZamigo@aol.com wrote:
> I have an 81' long strip of land between the street
> and the sidewalk by my house. The area is 3 feet
> wide. I want to plant dwarf oleanders in this area
> to add color since all there is now is just gravel.
> How many one gallon dwarf oleanders should I plant?
> Is spring a better time to plant these-should I wait
> until next March?Thanks
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
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From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Sat May 18 19:53:58 2002
From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake)
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 12:53:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question citrus trees
In-Reply-To: <200205181504.g4IF4ZR16527@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <20020518195358.78471.qmail@web14904.mail.yahoo.com>
Answer to question # 1-----Once a year
Answer to question #2------ Never, except for
suckers or to thin out the inside a little
--- rsedholm@yahoo.com wrote:
> RE GRAPEFRUIT & ORANGE TREES IN MESA:
> 1. HOW MANY CROPS A YEAR DO THEY HAVE?
> 2. WHEN IS THE BEST TIME FOR PRUNING
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
__________________________________________________
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From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Sat May 18 20:06:40 2002
From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake)
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 13:06:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Still more did you know
Message-ID: <20020518200640.26037.qmail@web14902.mail.yahoo.com>
275 pound watermellons have been known to grow on the
banks of the Tiris river in Turkey.
^^^
Honeybees are deaf,whats that you say,Oh yes, so are
turtles.
^^^
Breakfast of champions,President Grant ate cucumbers
for breakfast.(yuk)
^^^
An ants sense of smell is as keen as a dog's.
^^^
Fireflies light up as a means of sexual attraction.
The intesity and frequency identify the opposite sex.
^^^
Ladies, look in your closets,it takes150 dead ermines
to make one ermine coat.
^^^
honey is used in antifreeze mixes.
__________________________________________________
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From bstruthers2@earthlink.net Sat May 18 21:37:37 2002
From: bstruthers2@earthlink.net (bstruthers2@earthlink.net)
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 14:37:37 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200205182137.g4ILbbR20296@Ag.arizona.edu>
I have 2 tomato plants in large containers on my patio. One is a Celebrity, the other a Better Boy. Both are bearing nice fruit now. Will the fruit continue to grow and ripen if I move the containers into the shade for the hot weather, or is it better to leave them in the sun. Right now they get sun most of the day.
From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Sun May 19 03:55:08 2002
From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake)
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 20:55:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question ,tomatos
In-Reply-To: <200205182137.g4ILbbR20296@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <20020519035508.85838.qmail@web14912.mail.yahoo.com>
Best if you can give them at least 5-6 hrs of morning
sun.
--- bstruthers2@earthlink.net wrote:
> I have 2 tomato plants in large containers on my
> patio. One is a Celebrity, the other a Better Boy.
> Both are bearing nice fruit now. Will the fruit
> continue to grow and ripen if I move the containers
> into the shade for the hot weather, or is it better
> to leave them in the sun. Right now they get sun
> most of the day.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
__________________________________________________
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From drgarnett@msn.com Sun May 19 06:37:35 2002
From: drgarnett@msn.com (Donald Garnett)
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 23:37:35 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] ants in house
Message-ID:
------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C1FEC4.FD422460
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Ants need only a tiny opening to get into the house, and once
they're inside the walls, they can go anywhere - through gaps
in the molding, through the electrical outlets, along the edge
of the carpeting. They follow distinct trails left by scouts emitting
chemical tracers, and you can probably track them back to their
entry way by watching them.
We get annual invasions of ants in our house in May or June.
They generally enter houses this time of year in search of moisture,
but once they find food they'll happily work on that as well. Once
the summer rains come they tend to stay away, at least if you can
keep them away from the food.
Powdered boric acid has been a traditional treatment for ants and
roaches. It is abrasive and rubs away the outer coating when they
walk through it, causing them to dehydrate. You would spread it
along the trails they travel. It will not work if it becomes wet or
caked. Boric acid is also toxic so if you mix it with something tasty
they'll eat it and die (not recommended if you have pets).
The ant traps typically sold in stores are also effective if you lay
them close to the ant trails. They contain treats laced with poison
that the ants carry back to the colony. The queen eats the poison
and dies, and the colony falls apart. This is more effective if you
want to get rid of the whole colony.
Check also around the foundation of your house to see if you can
find where they're entering - just look for the trail of ants. Blocking
this entry with insecticide or bait traps will keep them out completely.
Good luck!
Don Garnett (not a master gardener)
Tucson
------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C1FEC4.FD422460
Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Ants need only=
a tiny opening to get into the house, and once
they're inside=
the walls, they can go anywhere - through gaps
in the molding=
, through the electrical outlets, along the edge
of the carpet=
ing. They follow distinct trails left by scouts emitting
chemi=
cal tracers, and you can probably track them back to their
ent=
ry way by watching them.
We get annual invas=
ions of ants in our house in May or June.
They generally =
enter houses this time of year in search of moisture,
but once=
they find food they'll happily work on that as well. Once
the=
summer rains come they tend to stay away, at least if you can
keep them away from the food.
Powdered bori=
c acid has been a traditional treatment for ants and
roaches. =
It is abrasive and rubs away the outer coating when they
walk =
through it, causing them to dehydrate. You would spread it
alo=
ng the trails they travel. It will not work if it becomes wet or
caked. Boric acid is also toxic so if you mix it with something tasty<=
/DIV> they'll eat it and die (not recommended if you have pets).
The ant traps typically sold in stores are als=
o effective if you lay
them close to the ant trails. They con=
tain treats laced with poison
that the ants carry back to the =
colony. The queen eats the poison
and dies, and the colony fal=
ls apart. This is more effective if you
want to get rid of the=
whole colony.
Check also around the founda=
tion of your house to see if you can
find where they're enter=
ing - just look for the trail of ants. Blocking
this entry wit=
h insecticide or bait traps will keep them out completely.
&nb=
sp;
Good luck!
=
; Don Garnett (not a master gardener)
Tucso=
n
------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C1FEC4.FD422460--
From drgarnett@msn.com Sun May 19 06:54:53 2002
From: drgarnett@msn.com (Donald Garnett)
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 23:54:53 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] citrus irrigation
Message-ID:
------=_NextPart_001_0001_01C1FEC7.676B0B20
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
My sweetiepie surprised me recently with a dwarf lemon and dwarf
grapefruit that we're growing in containers for at least the near future.
We've collected the handy Ag publications on citrus since then.
The guidelines for water amounts in Pub. AZ1151 are pretty clear,
but what about irrigation intervals for container plants? My guess
is that container grown citrus would require more frequent watering.
Is there a specific guideline?
Don Garnett
Tucson
------=_NextPart_001_0001_01C1FEC7.676B0B20
Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
My sweetiepie =
surprised me recently with a dwarf lemon and dwarf
grapefruit=
that we're growing in containers for at least the near future.
We've collected the handy Ag publications on citrus since then.
The guidelines for water amounts in Pub. AZ11=
51 are pretty clear,
but what about irrigation intervals for c=
ontainer plants? My guess
is that container grown citrus would=
require more frequent watering.
Is there a specific guideline=
?
Don Garnett
=
; Tucson
------=_NextPart_001_0001_01C1FEC7.676B0B20--
From MarissaWalker@cox.net Sun May 19 06:57:51 2002
From: MarissaWalker@cox.net (Marissa)
Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 23:57:51 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Controlling Scorpions
Message-ID:
Does anyone know of a way to control scorpions other than by regularly
spraying your home both inside and outside?? Recently moved to a house in
S. Tempe and saw a scorpion inside the house!!!!!! (I'm from FL so I am
very scared and shocked). I talked to my next door neighbor and she was
very surprised because she has not seen scorpions in this area. I have been
doing some gardening, but nothing major-a little bit of digging. I wonder
if I may be watering trees more deeply than the previous owner and so I may
be disturbing these creatures??!! Would watering more deeply than usual
disturb scorpions? Please help. Thanks.
From eschaum@msn.com Sun May 19 18:05:01 2002
From: eschaum@msn.com (eschaum@msn.com)
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 11:05:01 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200205191805.g4JI51R02572@Ag.arizona.edu>
We have grass that is beginning to have "groundcover type weeds". What would be the best weed killer/fertilizer to use in this heat?
From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun May 19 18:28:56 2002
From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew)
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 18:28:56 +0000
Subject: [Arid_gardener] lawn, prostrate spurge
Message-ID:
You might be describing spurge. --
it is an annual; flat on the ground, stems form a circular
mat from a single taproot. It is aggressive and has a
milky sap.
Since spurge is an annual weed that grows
from a single taproot, I would try digging
out as many plants a you can (one plant can
cover a big area). Then keep the lawn as
healthy as possible. A healthy lawn will crowd
out weeds.
You can also find the following publications on line at:
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm
8103 How to Control Prostrate Spurge in Arizona
8653 Control Weeds in Urban Areas
MC 51 Controlling a Few Common Urban Weeds
Some orgainc gardeners have also reported success treating
the spurge with vinegar.
Linda Drew
Master Gardener
>From: eschaum@msn.com
>To:
>Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 11:05:01 -0700 (MST)
>
>We have grass that is beginning to have "groundcover type weeds". What
>would be the best weed killer/fertilizer to use in this heat?
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun May 19 18:43:13 2002
From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew)
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 18:43:13 +0000
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Controlling Scorpions
Message-ID:
The county ext service has a good document re: Scorpions. MC71 can be
ordered from the ext service for $1 There address is in Phoenix:
Maricopa County Cooperative Extension
4341 E. Broadway Road
Phoenix, AZ 85040
You may also drop by to pick up this document
and from Master Gardener Linda Guy (earlier question):
Check out the following for some helpful pointers
http://www.azpest.com/scorp.htm
The best strategy is to carefully remove habitat [piled brush, rocks, etc.],
let a cat outdoors on occasion
[as long as you are a good neighbor and don't let it stray!], and use a
blacklight at night to see how
rampant the problem is and if your efforts are having an impact. Most stores
with pest control supplies carry
products that address scorpions, but that doesn't need to be your first
tactic.
>From: "Marissa"
>To: "Arid Gardener"
>Subject: [Arid_gardener] Controlling Scorpions
>Date: Sat, 18 May 2002 23:57:51 -0700
>
>Does anyone know of a way to control scorpions other than by regularly
>spraying your home both inside and outside?? Recently moved to a house in
>S. Tempe and saw a scorpion inside the house!!!!!! (I'm from FL so I am
>very scared and shocked). I talked to my next door neighbor and she was
>very surprised because she has not seen scorpions in this area. I have
>been
>doing some gardening, but nothing major-a little bit of digging. I wonder
>if I may be watering trees more deeply than the previous owner and so I may
>be disturbing these creatures??!! Would watering more deeply than usual
>disturb scorpions? Please help. Thanks.
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
_________________________________________________________________
Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
From lukeys@msn.com Sun May 19 18:47:44 2002
From: lukeys@msn.com (lukeys@msn.com)
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 11:47:44 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200205191847.g4JIliR05879@Ag.arizona.edu>
If this is not the place to direct this question to, please advise me as to where I should get my question answered. Question-I have nine (9) large (about 30 ft) shamel ash trees on the south, west, and north sides of my home. One of the trees on the south side (for a few years now) drops a lot of leaves right after the seeds start to fall, about this time of the year. The leaves are curled and starting to dry. It is the only tree I have that drops the leaves as I described. I can't say that this is the healthiest tree of the bunch but prior to this leaf dropping occurrence the tree looks pretty good. What is wrong, what can I do about it? Please advise. Thanks, Luis A. Chavez
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun May 19 19:11:24 2002
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com)
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 15:11:24 EDT
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ash Tree Dropping Leaves
Message-ID:
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Luis,
When trees drop an excessive amount of leaves this time of year, the cause is
usually inadequate irrigation. By dropping its leaves a plant will cut down
on water loss by transpiration.
Check out this site for info on proper irrigation:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
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Luis,
When trees drop an excessive amount of leaves this time of year, the cause is usually inadequate irrigation. By dropping its leaves a plant will cut down on water loss by transpiration.
Check out this site for info on proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_b4.bb864ca.2a1952dc_boundary--
From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Sun May 19 21:13:41 2002
From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake)
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 14:13:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Controlling Scorpions
In-Reply-To:
Message-ID: <20020519211341.77093.qmail@web14913.mail.yahoo.com>
Whatever you do, don't stop watering deep. It has
nothing to do with your pest problem and the trees
need deep watering..Scorpions are a nocturnal insect.
so whey hide during the day. You recd. hte right
answer, clean uo all areas of trash,rocks, etc. they
might hide in during the day.Insecticdes won't kill
them. At least nothing the consumer can get will.Has
there been any type of new construction in the area
that would disturb them causing them to move into your
area?The only way to get rid of them is to (1) trap
them,(2) step on them, (3) kill their food source
which is other insects. Good Luck with your choice.
--- Marissa wrote:
> Does anyone know of a way to control scorpions other
> than by regularly
> spraying your home both inside and outside??
> Recently moved to a house in
> S. Tempe and saw a scorpion inside the house!!!!!!
> (I'm from FL so I am
> very scared and shocked). I talked to my next door
> neighbor and she was
> very surprised because she has not seen scorpions in
> this area. I have been
> doing some gardening, but nothing major-a little bit
> of digging. I wonder
> if I may be watering trees more deeply than the
> previous owner and so I may
> be disturbing these creatures??!! Would watering
> more deeply than usual
> disturb scorpions? Please help. Thanks.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
__________________________________________________
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From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Sun May 19 21:20:20 2002
From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake)
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 14:20:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question on spurge
In-Reply-To: <200205191805.g4JI51R02572@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <20020519212020.19710.qmail@web14903.mail.yahoo.com>
You probably have spurge. Its considered a broadleaf
plant. There are many weed killers for use in lawns
that will kill spurge. they are available in liquid or
granular, take your choice.
--- eschaum@msn.com wrote:
> We have grass that is beginning to have "groundcover
> type weeds". What would be the best weed
> killer/fertilizer to use in this heat?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
__________________________________________________
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From sealoveraz@aol.com Sun May 19 22:05:46 2002
From: sealoveraz@aol.com (sealoveraz@aol.com)
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 15:05:46 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200205192205.g4JM5kR21569@Ag.arizona.edu>
I recently saw an ad for Zoysia Grass Lawn in a magazine. It's plugs of grass that, after they grow out, require little mowing or watering. This sounds too good to be true and therefore, we were wondering what you might know about this product. The company name is Zoysia Farm Nurseries, 3617 Old Taneytown Rd., Taneytown, MD 21787. I noticed on the ad that they do not ship out of the USA or to WA or OR states - I thought this was pretty interesting, and peaks my interests as to why. SO, is this a weed they've somehow engineered to look like grass? Have you ever heard of it? Your immediated response would be appreciated.
From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun May 19 23:01:58 2002
From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew)
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 23:01:58 +0000
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Zoysia grass
Message-ID:
Here is information from Master Gardener Linda Guy:
The Master Gardener Manual has a section on turf, including planting and
maintenance schedules for zoysia grass. See it at
http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html
However, in our lawn publication MC18, zoysia is listed as only moderately
well adaprted to our area. They tend to be yellowish-green as a result of
our caliche
soil under hot weather stress. They tolerate partial shade, though not as
well as a St. Augustine option. It is a slow grower, meaning less mowing and
dethatching.
It is more susceptible to insect or disease problems, and cannot be
overseeded with rye in the winter, as one can with bermuda lawns. It is more
cold tolerant,
however, meaning that the lawn will have a slightly longer growing season.
Our lawn pubs are listed at
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#lawn
They are not available online, but you can order them [same page] or view
them in the reference section of your library (Section 635 - Home
Horticulture
pubilcations).
-------------------------
==================
Following is an excerpt from Mike Hills' response to this
same question on this list from 2 years ago. Refer to
http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/arid_gardener/1605.html
for the complete text. -Olin
====================
Re: Is Amazoy Zoysia Grass suitable to the Low Desert?
By Mike Hills (mhills_sro@email.msn.com)
Wed, 13 May 1998 17:33:03 -0700
"Sorry, but not really. Zoysia is only moderately adapted to
use in the
southwestern deserts. Actually prefers more acidic soil and
water
conditions than our typically alkaline pH.
Plugs seem to do the poorest job, even though the
advertisements would have
you believe otherwise. These are being produced usually in
the SE USA where
soil, water and temperature are usually very different than
ours. The
plugs are also usually very small, with weak roots and
arrive in poor
stressed out condition. Sticking them into our hot dry
conditions usually
wipes out half or so.
Even with similar soil and water conditions, such as a
homeowner in the SE
purchasing these same plugs, their small size plus the ad
claims and plant
spacing recommendations, plus the slow horizontal growth
means that the
plugs generally take 2 years to fill in a lawn area. In the
meantime, the
turf owner fights a continual battle with weeds, including
Bermuda which
want to move into the open, bare nicely prepared soil area.
Additionally,
the plugs end up creating a bumpy, hilly turf surface since
the initial plug
area is higher than the surrounding areas filled in by
creeping stolons.
RECOMMENDATION - Do Not Buy Any Of These Zoysia Plugs from
catalogs or
Weekend Newspaper Supplements. Zoysiagrass is only somewhat
adapted out
here, and you will have to constantly monitor soil pH and
alter with
additions of soil sulphur, iron, gypsum, etc. to fight the
alkalinity and
the salts.
If you really want to try zoysia grass, try planting zoysia
seed instead.
The initial plant population is higher from direct seeding,
the plants
develop their root system directly in the turf area soil
base, using our
local water and weed encroachment is reduced. The common
zoysiagrass from
seed is coarser textured, but is much more adapted to
borderline conditions
like the SW USA. You will still need to add soil sulphur,
iron, etc. but
will be more successful than with the plugged types of
zoysia.
Additionally, zoysias are more prone to thatch buildup in
our growing
conditions, yet they do not tolerate much de-thatching
activity -
de-thatching actually harms the turf. The built up thatch
makes the turf
area more prone to insect and fungal disease problems, as
well as creating
problems with water penetration at the soil surface. Also,
zoysia will go
dormant and brown in winter usually before Bermuda and come
back green in
spring after Bermuda - it will not tolerate overseeding with
ryegrass as
this damages the zoysia crowns. Thus you can plan on a brown
zoysia lawn
for 4-6 months each year during winter.
>From: sealoveraz@aol.com
>To:
>Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 15:05:46 -0700 (MST)
>
>I recently saw an ad for Zoysia Grass Lawn in a magazine. It's plugs of
>grass that, after they grow out, require little mowing or watering. This
>sounds too good to be true and therefore, we were wondering what you might
>know about this product. The company name is Zoysia Farm Nurseries, 3617
>Old Taneytown Rd., Taneytown, MD 21787. I noticed on the ad that they do
>not ship out of the USA or to WA or OR states - I thought this was pretty
>interesting, and peaks my interests as to why. SO, is this a weed they've
>somehow engineered to look like grass? Have you ever heard of it? Your
>immediated response would be appreciated.
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun May 19 23:58:23 2002
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com)
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 19:58:23 EDT
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Zoysia Grass
Message-ID: <18f.8200cfd.2a19961f@aol.com>
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I'll add to Linda's excellent answer about Zoysia grass. Zoysia grass plugs
and especially those grown in the east where the soil is acid is not easy to
establish in our alkaline soils. I think you would not be wise to try the
plugs here in the low desert. The grass of choice here in the low desert is
bermuda.
Good luck
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
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I'll add to Linda's excellent answer about Zoysia grass. Zoysia grass plugs and especially those grown in the east where the soil is acid is not easy to establish in our alkaline soils. I think you would not be wise to try the plugs here in the low desert. The grass of choice here in the low desert is bermuda.
Good luck
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
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From bteagle@worldnet.att.net Mon May 20 00:43:30 2002
From: bteagle@worldnet.att.net (bteagle@worldnet.att.net)
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 17:43:30 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200205200043.g4K0hUR04254@Ag.arizona.edu>
I have early girl tomatoes planted and on some of them I have on the bottom a large brownish/black spot. Sometimes the tomatoe spoils and other times with a small spot part of the fruit is good. What causes the problem and is there a way to stop it?
Thanks Bob Turley
From Jonathan Kandell"
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If it reassures you, I've had a couple scorpions in the house at the =
edge of Tucson. First, it's only been one every year or so. Second, =
I've managed to catch it both times with a glass. So best to you! =
These guys are definitely more aggressive than brown recluse, black =
widows etc so make sure you get it.
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If it reassures you, I've had a couple scorpions =
in the=20
house at the edge of Tucson. First, it's only been one every year =
or so.=20
Second, I've managed to catch it both times with a glass. So best =
to=20
you! These guys are definitely more aggressive than brown recluse, =
black=20
widows etc so make sure you get it.
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From livingstones@prodigy.net Mon May 20 04:37:54 2002
From: livingstones@prodigy.net (livingstones@prodigy.net)
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 21:37:54 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200205200437.g4K4brR26193@Ag.arizona.edu>
will i have success growing mango or avacodos trees in the phoenix area?
From lfugard@att.net Mon May 20 14:16:01 2002
From: lfugard@att.net (lisa fugard)
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 07:16:01 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] ocotillo propagation
Message-ID:
arid gardener,
I am now a happy owner of four acres of desert in southern California and am
seeeking information on how to propagate ocotillos. There are also a few on
hte property that I would like to transplant to a new location. Any info on
how to do this would be much appreciated.
Lisa Fugard
From lfugard@att.net Mon May 20 14:17:26 2002
From: lfugard@att.net (lisa fugard)
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 07:17:26 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] transplanting booojum trees
Message-ID:
Arid gardener,
I just boought a house with several smallish bojjum trees that I would like
to transplant to a new location. How and when should I do this?
Lisa Fugard
From millero@cybercom.net Mon May 20 15:20:35 2002
From: millero@cybercom.net (olin)
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 08:20:35 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tomato Blossom Rnd Rot
References: <200205200043.g4K0hUR04254@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <009001c20012$de627140$f650530c@j0r9501>
----- Original Message ----- From:
> I have early girl tomatoes planted and on some of them I have on the
bottom a large brownish/black spot. Sometimes the tomatoe spoils and
other times with a small spot part of the fruit is good. What causes
the problem and is there a way to stop it?
>
Sounds like blossom end rot. Thought to be due to the inabilty of the
plant to utilize calcium which is often due to irregular watering and
not necessarily due to a lack of calcium in the soil.
Olin
Email: millero at worldnet dot att dot net
From millero@cybercom.net Mon May 20 15:27:06 2002
From: millero@cybercom.net (olin)
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 08:27:06 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tomatoes; Determinate/Indeterminate
References: <005301c1fe28$3d133360$6839bbd0@oemcomputer>
Message-ID: <009101c20012$def05960$f650530c@j0r9501>
----- Original Message ----- From: "Jonathan Kandell"
> Olin, how long to most tomatoes last? Don't indeterminates keep
going....?
Determinate varieties form flower clusters at the end of the growing
tips, which then stop growing and force the plant to become bushy. All
of the fruit ripens at nearly the same time which makes determinates
convenient for commercial production because they can be harvested
mechanically with only one pass. Not as tasty as most indetermiantes
(IMO) but easier to grow and more reliable in the low desert. The
plants can sometimes be kept alive throughout the summer and form new
shoots early in the fall when the weather cools and produce a second
crop.
Indeterminate varieties form flower clusters along the side of the vines
and the growing tip can continue to grow, form long vines, and produce
more blossoms and fruit throughout the growing season. The plants are
perennial and can grow and produce for many years in a favorable
environment. e.g., greenhouses. But as a practical matter, in the low
desert, fruit set for the larger fruited indeterminate varieties
usually stops about late May when daytime temps regularly exceed 100
deg. But the season can be extended with shading and misting and also
by gently shaking the branches with blossoms in the early morning while
the temps are still relatively cool and the pollen is still fresh.
Fruit already set will continue to grow and ripen until the weather gets
too hot for growth, usually at daytime temps of about 105. Last year,
I had several cherry varieties that set fruit through July, then came
back again in September and produced again in the fall. One of those
plants also survived the winter and is currently our best producing
plant. I have heard reports of some mid sized indeterminate types
producing throughout the summer in Green Valley and I expect they would
also have a better chance in Tucson.
Olin
email: millero at worldnet dot att dot net
From millero@cybercom.net Mon May 20 15:15:53 2002
From: millero@cybercom.net (olin)
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 08:15:53 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tomatoes dying from bottom up.
References: <3CE59280.74465BB4@azstarnet.com>
Message-ID: <008f01c20012$ddd30280$f650530c@j0r9501>
----- Original Message ----- From: "John A. Baade"
> My tomato plants are dying from the bottom up. The lower leaves turn
> yellow and then dry up. The plants grew vigorously when first planted
> but have stopped growing. I water them daily on a drip system. I
> fertilize relatively heavily with Miracle Grow. ...
>...
Browning from the bottom is usually a sign of either too little or too
much water. Sounds like too much in your case. In our warm climate,
wilted leaves on tomatoes in the afternoon and evening can be a sign of
heat stress, not necessarily a lack of water. The plants need to be
watered only when (or just before) the leaves start to curl or wilt in
the early morning .
Olin
Email: millero at worldnet dot att dot net
From doryvan@aol.com Mon May 20 18:04:55 2002
From: doryvan@aol.com (doryvan@aol.com)
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 11:04:55 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200205201804.g4KI4tR10583@Ag.arizona.edu>
Rod McKusick,
In an earlier response you mentioned using Vapam to treat the soil after removing a diseased (citrus) tree.
Where can I find Vapam? Have checked with local nurseries, nothing.
Thanks.
Doris
From dwilliams360@juno.com Mon May 20 22:59:45 2002
From: dwilliams360@juno.com (dwilliams360@juno.com)
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 15:59:45 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200205202259.g4KMxjR11461@Ag.arizona.edu>
I am looking for a layout of a children garden.
Thank you.
From Linda.Trujillo@motorola.com Tue May 21 00:06:35 2002
From: Linda.Trujillo@motorola.com (Trujillo Linda-R37824)
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 17:06:35 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] ocotillo propagation
Message-ID: <3F05200B37A1D511BE550002B3289243016B5D59@az43exm04.phx.mcd.mot.com>
Lisa,
Although you will want to contact your local Cooperative Extension office for information specific to your area, here are a few links which provide general information on the Ocotillo and how to transplant and propagate. Did you know that the Ocotillo makes a lovely "living fence" and the flowers can be used to make a tasty beverage called "Ocotillo Punch?"
http://ag.arizona.edu/cochise/psc/ocotillo.htm
http://ag.arizona.edu/pima/gardening/aridplants/Fouquieria_splendens.html
And here is Linda Guy's response to a similar question
http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-July/004881.html
Good Luck!
Linda Trujillo
Master Gardener
Maricopa County
-----Original Message-----
From: lisa fugard [mailto:lfugard@att.net]
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2002 7:16 AM
To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: [Arid_gardener] ocotillo propagation
arid gardener,
I am now a happy owner of four acres of desert in southern California and am
seeeking information on how to propagate ocotillos. There are also a few on
hte property that I would like to transplant to a new location. Any info on
how to do this would be much appreciated.
Lisa Fugard
_______________________________________________
Arid_gardener mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue May 21 00:39:10 2002
From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 00:39:10 +0000
Subject: [Arid_gardener] children garden, layout
Message-ID:
Maricopa Master Gardeners have written an excellent
book that will help:
Success With School Gardens: How to Create a Learning
Oasis in the Desert (see Chapter8: Layouts that work)
Also Mel Bartholomew's book, "Square Foot Gardening"
has excellent ideas for layout.
Both of these may be in your library.
Also, check the web (Use a search engine such as "google")
and search on "children's garden". One site to start:
http://childrensgarden.ucdavis.edu/
Linda Drew
Master Gardener
>From: dwilliams360@juno.com
>To:
>Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 15:59:45 -0700 (MST)
>
>I am looking for a layout of a children garden.
>
>Thank you.
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
From lazcow@yahoo.com Tue May 21 00:59:46 2002
From: lazcow@yahoo.com (lazcow@yahoo.com)
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 17:59:46 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200205210059.g4L0xkR02732@Ag.arizona.edu>
Thanks to everyone who has given me advice on growing corn. I have another question. My corn is about 5ft and tasseling and has the beginning of small ears that are beginning to silk. My plot is only 5' by 12' and I want to try hand pollinating my corn. When and how do I do this? Do I pull off some tassels and brush them on the silks?
I also have a question about a yellow crookneck squash I have. There are 4 plants under the same conditions, and the new growth on one of the palnts is slightly dwarfed and a greenish yellow color. Also the fruit is a greenish yellow color with green spots on it. Any ideas what is going on? And finally one last question. I have a yellow pear tomato plant that is turning yellow on the old growth and does appear to have some leaves that are twisting. Is this curly top virus? Is there anything else this could be? Any information and help is much appreciated.
From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue May 21 01:28:48 2002
From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy)
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 18:28:48 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Transplanting booojum trees
References:
Message-ID: <3CE9A2D0.4060006@qwest.net>
Lisa,
If you do not receive a reply from a member of our list, I would urge
you to contact the Desert Botanical Garden in Phoenix, which specializes
in arid land plants [I know they have boojums on the grounds]. Their
plant hotline is available from M-F, 10 to 11:30 am. 480/941-1225.
Linda Guy, MG
lisa fugard wrote:
>Arid gardener,
>
>I just boought a house with several smallish bojjum trees that I would like
>to transplant to a new location. How and when should I do this?
>
>Lisa Fugard
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>
>
>
From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue May 21 01:32:43 2002
From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy)
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 18:32:43 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Take it Away!!!
Message-ID: <3CE9A3BB.1030205@qwest.net>
Sue,
I'm heading out for my second honeymoon and don't want to be confronted
with two weeks' worth of server questions and replies. Please "turn me
off" as soon as you have the opportunity. I'll drop you a line during
the first week of June to "reestablish me" as a member of the list.
Many thanks.
Linda
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue May 21 01:46:17 2002
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com)
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 21:46:17 EDT
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Vapam
Message-ID:
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Hi Doris,
The Vapam that I've used is marketed under the trade name of HI- YIELD. I
would suggest that use the yellow pages and let your fingers do the walking.
Good luck
Rod
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Hi Doris,
The Vapam that I've used is marketed under the trade name of HI- YIELD. I would suggest that use the yellow pages and let your fingers do the walking.
Good luck
Rod
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From watsontl@mindspring.com Tue May 21 02:32:10 2002
From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson)
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 19:32:10 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
References: <200205182137.g4ILbbR20296@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <001e01c2006f$b6edc1c0$270cb83f@oemcomputer>
I'd give them some shade at least during the hottest time of the year. As
the fruit ripen, any in the sun will be subject to sunscald, which creates
pale splotches on the tomatoes and can ruin them. The tomatoes in my
garden, starting right now in fact, have a 50% shade cloth over them to
reduce the sun to something the tomato fruit can handle.
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Saturday, May 18, 2002 2:37 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
> I have 2 tomato plants in large containers on my patio. One is a
Celebrity, the other a Better Boy. Both are bearing nice fruit now. Will the
fruit continue to grow and ripen if I move the containers into the shade for
the hot weather, or is it better to leave them in the sun. Right now they
get sun most of the day.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From watsontl@mindspring.com Tue May 21 02:40:05 2002
From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson)
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 19:40:05 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
References: <200205200043.g4K0hUR04254@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <004301c20070$d1652880$270cb83f@oemcomputer>
This could be blossom end rot, which is caused by either a shortage of
calcium, or the plant being unable to take up calcium. In our region, a
shortage is unlikely. Both over and underwatering can make it difficult
for the roots to take up calcium effectively. Try to keep the tomatoes
evenly moist. I do this by watering a bit in the morning and in the
evening, and keeping the bed covered with 2 to 3 inches of straw or shredded
paper mulch to reduce evaporation from the soil. This combination has kept
me safe from blossom end rot for years.
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2002 5:43 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
> I have early girl tomatoes planted and on some of them I have on the
bottom a large brownish/black spot. Sometimes the tomatoe spoils and other
times with a small spot part of the fruit is good. What causes the problem
and is there a way to stop it?
>
> Thanks Bob Turley
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From lsveith@swlink.net Tue May 21 12:44:53 2002
From: lsveith@swlink.net (lsveith@swlink.net)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 05:44:53 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200205211244.g4LCirR18199@Ag.arizona.edu>
We had a winter lawn of rye grass. What is the best way to stimulate the bermuda grass, ie., fertilizing, mowing & watering.
In advance thank you for your timely response.
Leland Veith
From lsveith@swlink.net Tue May 21 12:48:02 2002
From: lsveith@swlink.net (lsveith@swlink.net)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 05:48:02 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200205211248.g4LCm2R18467@Ag.arizona.edu>
Our bermuda grass lawn is not uniform. Last two years we have treated for pearle scale. Once the bermuda grass begins to grow can we over seed it with more bermuda grass seed. Patch sodding with bermuda grass doesn't seem to be effective.
In advance thank you for your timely response.
Sincerely,
Leland Veith
From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue May 21 15:19:45 2002
From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 15:19:45 +0000
Subject: [Arid_gardener] bermuda lawn
Message-ID:
I am not expereinced in this area but can pass along
some information I found researching your question.
There are many different varieties of bermuda. The
ones most often seen here are hybrid bermudas such
as Tifgreen that are planted as sod. Generally, they
do not produce any viable seeds.
Bermuda seed available is usually from common bermuda,
different than the hybrid varieties. So, you probably
do not want to overseed with bermuda seed.
THe key for a beautiful lawn is to get the bermuda you
have growing vigorously and keep it healthy. (I know,
easier said than done!!). A healthy lawn will spread
into the bare patches and crowd out weeds.
Call your local Cooperative Extension Office (under
county government in the phone book) and request specific
brochures to help. Western Sod company has produced a
video called "Lawngevity" that is a good overview (we
have a copy available to view in the Tucson Cooperative
Extension Office).
Linda Drew
Master Gardener
>From: lsveith@swlink.net
>To:
>Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 05:48:02 -0700 (MST)
>
>Our bermuda grass lawn is not uniform. Last two years we have treated for
>pearle scale. Once the bermuda grass begins to grow can we over seed it
>with more bermuda grass seed. Patch sodding with bermuda grass doesn't seem
>to be effective.
>In advance thank you for your timely response.
>Sincerely,
>Leland Veith
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue May 21 15:33:26 2002
From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 15:33:26 +0000
Subject: [Arid_gardener] lawn, spring transition
Message-ID:
The Master Gardener Manual has a chapter on lawns
that contains useful information:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/
Here is some information from that chapter:
Start when minimum nighttime temperature is 60 degrees F
or higher for five days in a row.
Fertilize the lawn one a week with 1/4 pound of water
soluble nitrogen. Scalp the lawn slightly every other
mowing.
Apply regular irrigation amounts as usual. Do not
shut off the water for 10-14 days. This will damage the
underlying bermuda grass.
Keep on this schedule for 3-4 weeks.
Then return to the normal base height for the underlying
bermuda grass. (assume mowing twice or three times a week
and NEVER removing more than 1/3 of the height of the grass
at one mowing).
Linda Drew
Master Gardener
>From: lsveith@swlink.net
>To:
>Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 05:44:53 -0700 (MST)
>
>We had a winter lawn of rye grass. What is the best way to stimulate the
>bermuda grass, ie., fertilizing, mowing & watering.
>
>In advance thank you for your timely response.
>Leland Veith
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
_________________________________________________________________
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
From wcorrig1@twcny.rr.com Tue May 21 17:55:41 2002
From: wcorrig1@twcny.rr.com (wcorrig1@twcny.rr.com)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 10:55:41 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200205211755.g4LHtfR09943@Ag.arizona.edu>
I have a crown of thorns plant which outgrew its pot. I transplanted it to a bigger pot,
but the branches about 2 ft high have bent over and several leaves have turned yellow. I'm afraid I've injured it somehow. There are blooms on some of the branches
so I don't want to cut it. What should I do
before I kill it completely? I'm afraid I may have over watered intially on teh transplant operation.
Thanks for any and all help.PS some of the shorter branches seems fine.Can I prune it back?
From sjbass@qwest.net Tue May 21 18:16:51 2002
From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 11:16:51 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Transplanted Crown of Thorns
References: <200205211755.g4LHtfR09943@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <3CEA8F13.A9428EED@qwest.net>
I'm sure you will get other suggestions from the list, but I would let the soil dry out a bit and see if the plant rebounds, if you did overwater. Transplanting is
always a bit of a shock to a plant.
How long ago did you transplant?
Sue Bass
Master Gardener
wcorrig1@twcny.rr.com wrote:
> I have a crown of thorns plant which outgrew its pot. I transplanted it to a bigger pot,
> but the branches about 2 ft high have bent over and several leaves have turned yellow. I'm afraid I've injured it somehow. There are blooms on some of the branches
> so I don't want to cut it. What should I do
> before I kill it completely? I'm afraid I may have over watered intially on teh transplant operation.
> Thanks for any and all help.PS some of the shorter branches seems fine.Can I prune it back?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From Linda.Trujillo@motorola.com Tue May 21 18:19:53 2002
From: Linda.Trujillo@motorola.com (Trujillo Linda-R37824)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 11:19:53 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <3F05200B37A1D511BE550002B3289243016B5D5B@az43exm04.phx.mcd.mot.com>
In addition to the wonderful books mentioned by Linda Guy, here are two I would add to the list:
Native American Gardening by Michael J. Caduto. This softcover book is a great resource and offers educational information about native edible plants (particularly the Three Sisters - corn, beans and squash). It also has wonderful stories and projects for children, as well as garden layouts.
Digging Deeper by Joseph Kiefer. This is another great resource for youth oriented gardening.
Enjoy!
Linda Trujillo
Master Gardener
Maricopa County
-----Original Message-----
From: dwilliams360@juno.com [mailto:dwilliams360@juno.com]
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2002 4:00 PM
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I am looking for a layout of a children garden.
Thank you.
_______________________________________________
Arid_gardener mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From gardening@petmedicinechest.com Tue May 21 19:16:44 2002
From: gardening@petmedicinechest.com (Pet Medicine Chest)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 14:16:44 -0500
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Join Our Associate Program
Message-ID: <200205211916.g4LJGi919827@logan1.loganet.net>
A few days ago, we sent you an email about joining our gardening/pet health
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From yarrow@cgmailbox.com Tue May 21 19:40:16 2002
From: yarrow@cgmailbox.com (dsrtgrdnr)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 12:40:16 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cosmos & other annuals....
Message-ID: <000901c200ff$6046ac20$8a57fecf@robertde>
Hello group,
I have several large flower beds planted this Spring
in, mostly cosmos, but also other hardy annuals like;
calendula officinalis, callistephus chinensis, papaver
rhoeas, rudbeckia zinnia elegans, ect..... they have been
producing a great deal of beautiful, tall and green
foliage however, few flowers considering the large
amount of plants in these large areas.... so, I'm wondering
a couple different things; are these particular plants
just waiting for more hot days to put on blooms?... or are
they needing more of one thing and less of another?... like;
more water and less composted manure or less manure
and more water?... ect... I'm clueless why I'm only getting
a few blooms but tons of lovely foliage? OR am I just
impatient and they'll bloom soon enough in due time?
Thank you, in advance, for your advice and opinions! :-)
~Constance Crane~
We've discovered the secret to a happy marriage
is not regular stops at the jewellery store but
instead..... regular stops at the garden center.
From yarrow@cgmailbox.com Tue May 21 20:13:30 2002
From: yarrow@cgmailbox.com (dsrtgrdnr)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 13:13:30 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Painting the trunks?
Message-ID: <002d01c20104$0d263560$8a57fecf@robertde>
Hello Group,
I'm new to this lovely desert and especially new to growing
citrus of any kind. I've been reading your advice here
about painting the tree's trunks white. Should I paint all
my tree's trunks (eucalyptus, bottle brush, palms) or just
citrus tree's trunks?
Also, with my (2) orange trees... they've been very ill for
nearly two years now, due to my ignorance of their needs.
I recently discovered that they needed to be planted on
their own water line that is specialised for them and moved
them out of the lawn area that is watered by sprinklers.
So, needless to say, since their move in February they've
been s-l-o-w-l-y recovering from their trauma. I've not
trimmed them at all since their move as I was waiting to
see how well they'd recover, if at all, from the move. They
did put out a nice flush of green leaves and new growth,
however, they have only one or two branches that are
bearing any leaves at all and the rest of the branches
are brown and dead. Should I cut away all those dead
branches or paint them too? I hesitate to do any cutting
(for fear of further stressing the trees) with the summer's
high heat just around the corner from us. What do you
think I should do.... besides giving up growing citrus???
Thanks again!
~Constance Crane~
We've discovered the secret to a happy marriage
is not regular stops at the jewellery store but
instead..... regular stops at the garden center.
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue May 21 22:33:51 2002
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 18:33:51 EDT
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Painting the trunks?
Message-ID: <155.e3b6a12.2a1c254f@aol.com>
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Constance,
The smooth bark of citrus trees is quite sensative to sunburn. When a citrus
is pruned excessively the the trunks and or the branches are painted to help
prevent sunburn which will cause the bark to crack and peel. The trees that
you mentioned do not need to be painted since they are not susceptable to
sunburn. Some species of eucalyptus have smooth bark but seem to handle the
hot sun ok.
It sounds like the two orange trees that you moved are not doing well. From
your description I suspect that they may not make it. My advice is to be sure
that the trees are deep watered once a week during the summer, and paint any
unshaded live limbs and trunk. Do not fertilize or prune them.
Don't give up on citrus trees, they are realy quite easy to grow, just water
and fertilize them adequately. There is lots of advice available through the
Cooperative Extension, so if you are not sure don't do anything until you
talk to us.
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
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Constance,
The smooth bark of citrus trees is quite sensative to sunburn. When a citrus is pruned excessively the the trunks and or the branches are painted to help prevent sunburn which will cause the bark to crack and peel. The trees that you mentioned do not need to be painted since they are not susceptable to sunburn. Some species of eucalyptus have smooth bark but seem to handle the hot sun ok.
It sounds like the two orange trees that you moved are not doing well. From your description I suspect that they may not make it. My advice is to be sure that the trees are deep watered once a week during the summer, and paint any unshaded live limbs and trunk. Do not fertilize or prune them.
Don't give up on citrus trees, they are realy quite easy to grow, just water and fertilize them adequately. There is lots of advice available through the Cooperative Extension, so if you are not sure don't do anything until you talk to us.
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
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From idnb@velocitus.net Tue May 21 23:19:31 2002
From: idnb@velocitus.net (idnb@velocitus.net)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 16:19:31 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200205212319.g4LNJUR21127@Ag.arizona.edu>
We are new to the Valley - East Mesa area. Our new home has a medium sized tif lawn in the back yard. After having lived here for about 4 months, we have begun to notice brown splotching in the grass. The former owners had an automatic sprinkler system set to water about 3 times in the morning and 2 in the afternoon, running only about 3 minutes per section. We have been told to fertilize with 16-16-16 and have done so twice since moving in. I am seeking advice on how to prevent this "browning" and any other helpful information anyone might have for us. Thanks very much.
From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Wed May 22 00:11:47 2002
From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 17:11:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Still more did you know?
Message-ID: <20020522001147.64988.qmail@web14907.mail.yahoo.com>
Dog meat is a delicacy in China, so is birds nest
soup.
^^^
Black-eyed peas are not peas,They are beans.
^^^
The flying fox is not a fox,its a bat.
^^^
Catgut string does not come from a cat, its from a
sheep's intestines.
^^^
The douglas fir is not a fir, its a pine.
^^^
The kangaroo rat is not a rat, its a gopher.
^^^
The silkworm is not a worm, its a caterpillar.
^^^
The pineapple is not a pine or an apple,its a berry.
__________________________________________________
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LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
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From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed May 22 00:41:19 2002
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 20:41:19 EDT
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf with brown sploches
Message-ID: <20.292b2625.2a1c432f@aol.com>
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The brown spots that you are seeing in your turf could be from the rye grass
which dies out this time of year. However the rye in my turf has already died
out and the bermuda is now growing above the dead rye. A lower cutting height
during April helps to kill off the rye and allow the bermuda get a start
after which you can raise the cutting height back to normal. Cutting off more
than 1/3 of the total height of the grass at one time can also cause
browning. Another possibility that would cause browing is pearl scale which
is inactive during the winter and would not affect the rye grass.
I think that your watering is adequate perhaps even too much. However the
grass will prosper much more if you watered every other day or every third
day and apply the total amount of water in the very early morning. Each day
your local newspaper states on the weather page how much water to apply to
your turf. This can be measured by setting out several empty tuna fish type
of cans before you water. Another method of determing the correct amount of
water to apply is to insert a six inch screwdriver into the ground after
watering, it will go easily to the depth the water has penetrated and it
should penetrate at least 6 inches.
Further info is available on line at:
http://www.ci.phoenix.az.us/WATER/lawnguid.html#LONG
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html
Good luck
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
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The brown spots that you are seeing in your turf could be from the rye grass which dies out this time of year. However the rye in my turf has already died out and the bermuda is now growing above the dead rye. A lower cutting height during April helps to kill off the rye and allow the bermuda get a start after which you can raise the cutting height back to normal. Cutting off more than 1/3 of the total height of the grass at one time can also cause browning. Another possibility that would cause browing is pearl scale which is inactive during the winter and would not affect the rye grass.
I think that your watering is adequate perhaps even too much. However the grass will prosper much more if you watered every other day or every third day and apply the total amount of water in the very early morning. Each day your local newspaper states on the weather page how much water to apply to your turf. This can be measured by setting out several empty tuna fish type of cans before you water. Another method of determing the correct amount of water to apply is to insert a six inch screwdriver into the ground after watering, it will go easily to the depth the water has penetrated and it should penetrate at least 6 inches.
Further info is available on line at: http://www.ci.phoenix.az.us/WATER/lawnguid.html#LONG
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html
Good luck
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
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From lazcow@yahoo.com Wed May 22 02:50:29 2002
From: lazcow@yahoo.com (lori zimmerman)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 19:50:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] tomato shade cloth
Message-ID: <20020522025029.87520.qmail@web14801.mail.yahoo.com>
Hi, I was wondering what percentage shade cloth should
I use over my tomato plants? I'm only going to put it
up one time. So should I put up 50 or 75% cloth. The
plants are in full sun. Thanks. Lori
__________________________________________________
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From HRB85373@aol.com Wed May 22 02:54:11 2002
From: HRB85373@aol.com (HRB85373@aol.com)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 19:54:11 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200205220254.g4M2sBR18131@Ag.arizona.edu>
We have a planting of 6 fairy dusters, about 7 years old. They exist, but have just never done well, thin foliage, few flowers. I keep them pruned to about 3-4 feet high. Watered by bubblers twice a week, leaves are not yellow so I think the water is adequate. Afternoon shade. Could it be the soil? If so, what to do to fertilize? Thanks for the help!
From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed May 22 05:12:54 2002
From: millero@worldnet.att.net (Olin)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 22:12:54 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Corn Pollination, Squash Growth
References: <200205210059.g4L0xkR02732@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <005801c20154$cd6c4260$c851530c@j0r9501>
----- Original Message ----- From:
>...
>My corn is about 5ft and tasseling and has the beginning of small ears
that are beginning to silk. My plot is only 5' by 12' and I want to try
hand pollinating my corn. When and how do I do this? Do I pull off some
tassels and brush them on the silks?
The tassel on each corn stalk normally produces millions of grains of
pollen unless there are extreme heat or drought conditions so a shortage
of pollen is not usually not a problem. But the silks on the outer corn
stalks at the upwind side of the corn patch often do not receive enough
pollen to fertilize all of the silks. You might try shaking these outer
stalks in the early morning while to pollen is still fresh. It seems
this should work but I can't really say I have ever noticed a
significant difference.
> I also have a question about a yellow crookneck squash I have. There
are 4 plants under the same conditions, and the new growth on one of the
palnts is slightly dwarfed and a greenish yellow color. Also the fruit
is a greenish yellow color with green spots on it. Any ideas what is
going on?
The squash problem sounds like curly top virus which is usually a pest
of tomatoes but may also infect plants of the squash family. But curly
top is usually associated with infections transmitted by beet
leafhoppers which don't show up until the weather warms after a wet
spring so it may well be a different virus. I would remove and discard
the affected plant.
>And finally one last question. I have a yellow pear tomato plant that
is turning yellow on the old growth and does appear to have some leaves
that are twisting. Is this curly top virus? Is there anything else
this could be?
Most likely Fusarium wilt (also called "the yellows"). There are photos
of various wilts at
http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/3000/3122.html
and of curly top at
http://ag.arizona.edu/yavapai/diagnostics/diagphotos/curlytopvirus.jpg
Olin
From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed May 22 05:17:08 2002
From: millero@worldnet.att.net (Olin)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 22:17:08 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] tomato shade cloth
References: <20020522025029.87520.qmail@web14801.mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <005901c20154$cdf28960$c851530c@j0r9501>
----- Original Message ----- From: "lori zimmerman"
> Hi, I was wondering what percentage shade cloth should
> I use over my tomato plants? I'm only going to put it
> up one time. So should I put up 50 or 75% cloth. The
> plants are in full sun.
No more than 50 % now. Up it to 75% when the temps begin to exceed 100
deg on a regular basis. -Olin
From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed May 22 05:42:35 2002
From: millero@worldnet.att.net (Olin)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 22:42:35 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fairy Duster Culture (Calliandra spp.)
References: <200205220254.g4M2sBR18131@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <005a01c20154$ce807180$c851530c@j0r9501>
It may depend on which fairy duster you have and the severity of the
pruning. The native pink fairy duster, which grows wild in our desert
regions such as the Superstition Wilderness, is a rather small open
plant and at 7 years, with no pruning, it should be about 3-4 feet tall
and as wide. It grows rather slowly, doesn't need irrigation but
benefits from it, blooms in the spring, then loses much of its foliage
in the summer.
The red Baja fairy duster gets rather large and bushy and, at 7 years,
may be over 6 feet tall with a 8-10 foot spread. It takes pruning
rather well (better than the pink) but controlling it to 3 feet sounds
like a bit much. Needs very little irrigation and blooms most of the
year in the Phoenix area.
Both types do better in full sun.
Olin
----- Original Message ----- From:
> We have a planting of 6 fairy dusters, about 7 years old. They exist,
but have just never done well, thin foliage, few flowers. I keep them
pruned to about 3-4 feet high. Watered by bubblers twice a week, leaves
are not yellow so I think the water is adequate. Afternoon shade. Could
it be the soil? If so, what to do to fertilize? Thanks for the help!
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From sjbass@qwest.net Wed May 22 14:27:03 2002
From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 07:27:03 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: Transplanted Crown of Thorns]
Message-ID: <3CEBAAB7.33C443F9@qwest.net>
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Any other suggestions for Val regarding her transplanted Crown of
Thorns?
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From: "BILL CORRIGAN"
To: "Sue Bass"
References: <200205211755.g4LHtfR09943@Ag.arizona.edu> <3CEA8F13.A9428EED@qwest.net>
Subject: Re: Transplanted Crown of Thorns
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approx 2 weeks now, the longest stems are still bent way over and the leaves
on those have turned ywllow a bit.
but the flowers are still in bloom and fresh,
val
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sue Bass"
To:
Cc:
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2002 2:16 PM
Subject: Transplanted Crown of Thorns
> I'm sure you will get other suggestions from the list, but I would let the
soil dry out a bit and see if the plant rebounds, if you did overwater.
Transplanting is
> always a bit of a shock to a plant.
> How long ago did you transplant?
> Sue Bass
> Master Gardener
>
> wcorrig1@twcny.rr.com wrote:
>
> > I have a crown of thorns plant which outgrew its pot. I transplanted it
to a bigger pot,
> > but the branches about 2 ft high have bent over and several leaves have
turned yellow. I'm afraid I've injured it somehow. There are blooms on some
of the branches
> > so I don't want to cut it. What should I do
> > before I kill it completely? I'm afraid I may have over watered intially
on teh transplant operation.
> > Thanks for any and all help.PS some of the shorter branches seems
fine.Can I prune it back?
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Arid_gardener mailing list
> > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>
>
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From Bonnie.bauer@honeywell.com Wed May 22 14:55:03 2002
From: Bonnie.bauer@honeywell.com (Bonnie.bauer@honeywell.com)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 07:55:03 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200205221455.g4MEt3R06701@Ag.arizona.edu>
Citrus Leaf Drop:
I've read the links provided on this, but my
problem is a bit different. I have a dwarf citrus
planted in a half barrel. I've had it three years,
and just repotted it this past March. A few
weeks back, it flowered, and had very many small
oranges on it. The past two weeks, all oranges have
dropped off, and about 1/2 of the leaves have as well.
One side of the tree has no leaves left. However,
none of the leaves ever turned yellow. They were
perfectly green, no spots, no wilting, and just fell
off. The links provided show citrus leaf drop
symptons as leaves turn yellow and fall off - mine
are falling off and perfectly green. Is the tree
dead - can I save it?? The dwarf lemon next to
it seems fine. It is also a container tree.
I water weekly in the winter - 2 - 3 times a week
in the summer.
From PhxFrank@juno.com Wed May 22 17:15:07 2002
From: PhxFrank@juno.com (PhxFrank@juno.com)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 10:15:07 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200205221715.g4MHF7R06157@Ag.arizona.edu>
I have a couple of mixed lettuce which is going to seed, can I and if so when can I save the seeds for replanting next year.
Also I have a grape vine, beautiful leaves only a small amount of skelaton damage, but only 2 bunches of grapes, it is on the east side of a west brick wall, by 10:00 a.m. this time of year, starting to shade from trees. Not enough sun? Thank you, PJ
From mishelle@usscreen.com Wed May 22 17:18:20 2002
From: mishelle@usscreen.com (Mishelle Fresener)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 10:18:20 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Verticillium and Fusarium Wilt
Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20020522101233.01e193a0@mail.usscreen.com>
Hi all,
I have determined that I have either Verticillium or Furasium wilt in my
containers as well as my raised bed. I know how to take care of the
containers but how do I correct this in my bed? Would 8 weeks of
solarization help? Do I need to replace all of the soil? I'm quite sure
this happened due to my lack of diligence regarding crop rotation. So I got
some money and bought a clue and now I know why it so important. Help,
anyone........................???
Mishelle
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed May 22 21:32:46 2002
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 17:32:46 EDT
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus leaf and fruit drop
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It is very normal for young citrus trees to shed their fruit, citrus trees
are usually four to five years old before they set fruit.
I suspect that the leaf drop is caused by not watering often enough. Potted
plants must be watered much more frequently than those in the ground.
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
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It is very normal for young citrus trees to shed their fruit, citrus trees are usually four to five years old before they set fruit.
I suspect that the leaf drop is caused by not watering often enough. Potted plants must be watered much more frequently than those in the ground.
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
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From Linda.Trujillo@motorola.com Wed May 22 22:53:45 2002
From: Linda.Trujillo@motorola.com (Trujillo Linda-R37824)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 15:53:45 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <3F05200B37A1D511BE550002B3289243016B5D63@az43exm04.phx.mcd.mot.com>
In addition to Olin's suggestion, here is one that works well for me:
Although this simple method is easier to demonstrate than to write about, here goes. Go into the garden in the early morning hours, before it warms up. Take a large bowl (I use a large stainless steel one) and position it so that the bowl rim is near the tassel stalk and the bowl is angled to catch the pollen as you tap on the tassel stalk. The pollen collected in the bowl can then be sprinkled onto the silks in need.
Good Luck!
Linda Trujillo
Master Gardener
Maricopa County
-----Original Message-----
From: lazcow@yahoo.com [mailto:lazcow@yahoo.com]
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2002 6:00 PM
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Thanks to everyone who has given me advice on growing corn. I have another question. My corn is about 5ft and tasseling and has the beginning of small ears that are beginning to silk. My plot is only 5' by 12' and I want to try hand pollinating my corn. When and how do I do this? Do I pull off some tassels and brush them on the silks?
I also have a question about a yellow crookneck squash I have. There are 4 plants under the same conditions, and the new growth on one of the palnts is slightly dwarfed and a greenish yellow color. Also the fruit is a greenish yellow color with green spots on it. Any ideas what is going on? And finally one last question. I have a yellow pear tomato plant that is turning yellow on the old growth and does appear to have some leaves that are twisting. Is this curly top virus? Is there anything else this could be? Any information and help is much appreciated.
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Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
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From watsontl@mindspring.com Thu May 23 02:33:03 2002
From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 19:33:03 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Verticillium and Fusarium Wilt
References: <5.1.0.14.0.20020522101233.01e193a0@mail.usscreen.com>
Message-ID: <000601c20202$2b1e6e80$d936b83f@oemcomputer>
You could start by letting a year pass with tomatoes and their relatives
grown only in containers. Grow anything NOT in the family Solanaceae
(tomatoes, peppers, "Irish" potatoes, eggplants, tomatillo, petunias, etc.)
you want in the bed. (Just one garden bed? That could make this
interesting.) The winter before you try tomatoes again, consider planting
a cover crop of vetch or winter rye (or both mixed together). Turn the
cover crop in a few weeks before you would transplant the tomatoes, to give
it time to break down. The increase in the amount of organic material will
increase the diversity of the soil ecosystem, making it less likely any one
fungus can become dominant. Last winter I grew hairy vetch where I
intended to grow tomatoes in the summer. Then check out one of the
biofungicide products appearing on the market these days. I used one
called Rootshield Home and Garden and it appears to be doing the job. All
of my garden beds were infested, no matter how I rotated crops, and tomatoes
were a loss 3 years running. This year we have a bumper crop on the way,
and I believe the big difference is the biofungicide. Between rotation,
cover crops, and the biofungicide, things are looking good.
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mishelle Fresener"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2002 10:18 AM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Verticillium and Fusarium Wilt
> Hi all,
>
> I have determined that I have either Verticillium or Furasium wilt in my
> containers as well as my raised bed. I know how to take care of the
> containers but how do I correct this in my bed? Would 8 weeks of
> solarization help? Do I need to replace all of the soil? I'm quite sure
> this happened due to my lack of diligence regarding crop rotation. So I
got
> some money and bought a clue and now I know why it so important. Help,
> anyone........................???
>
> Mishelle
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>
From Jonathan Kandell"
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I just picked my onions and garlic and have them sitting in the shade. =
How many days do they need before they're brought into the house?
jk
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I just picked my onions and garlic and have them =
sitting=20
in the shade. How many days do they need before they're brought into the =
house?
jk
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From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu May 23 05:35:50 2002
From: millero@worldnet.att.net (Olin)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 22:35:50 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Verticillium and Fusarium Wilt
References: <5.1.0.14.0.20020522101233.01e193a0@mail.usscreen.com>
Message-ID: <000a01c2021b$b6a90d20$c454530c@j0r9501>
Soil solarization should help. Best to begin mid June to mid July to
take advantage of the warmest time of year. Some fungicides like
Daconil controls some leaf fungus diseases but V & F wilts are systemic
(all parts of plant infected) with no effective control other than
prevention.
Some other ideas:
1. Plant resistant varieties. The letters following the name in
catalog descriptions indicate which diseases the plant is supposedly
resistant to but I can vouch for it. For example: Celebrity VFFNTA
indicates resistance to verticillium wilt (V), fusarium wilt races 1 &2
(FF), nematodes (N), tobacco mosaic virus (T) and Alternaria (A).
2. Don't buy transplants. Can introduce the diseases. Grow your
own seedlings.
3. Don't compost diseased plants.
4. Rotate crops if you have the garden space. Verticillium wilt
affects tomatoes, eggplant, peppers and others and is not too common
here when winters are warm but can occur. Fusarium affects only
tomatoes and is common here where winters are mild.
5. Grow open-pollinated varieties and save your own seed only from
fruit from healthy plants.
6. Grow heirloom varieties and save your own seed only from fruit
from healthy plants. I haven't seen any studies suggesting specific
disease resistance but these varieties have survived and prospered for
from 50 to more than 100 years so it seems intuitive there would be some
disease resistance.
----- Original Message ----- From: "Mishelle Fresener"
> I have determined that I have either Verticillium or Furasium wilt in
my
> containers as well as my raised bed. I know how to take care of the
> containers but how do I correct this in my bed? Would 8 weeks of
> solarization help? Do I need to replace all of the soil? I'm quite
sure
> this happened due to my lack of diligence regarding crop rotation. So
I got
> some money and bought a clue and now I know why it so important. Help,
> anyone........................???
From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu May 23 05:44:32 2002
From: millero@worldnet.att.net (Olin)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 22:44:32 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] how long to cure onions/garlic?
References: <000001c20208$5de86360$6d39bbd0@oemcomputer>
Message-ID: <000701c2021c$edffcf60$c454530c@j0r9501>
Up to 3 weeks. Less with good air circulation but always at least 1
week. -Olin
----- Original Message ----- From: "Jonathan Kandell"
I just picked my onions and garlic and have them sitting in the shade.
How many days do they need before they're brought into the house?
From gardenguru"
Message-ID: <039201c20268$6f28e2c0$235494ce@ibm22761658747>
First thought is that your are not watering deep enough. The weather page
provide the inches of water bermuda varieties need based on temp, wind and
humidity. You need to determine how many inches your sprinkler delivers in a
given period of time. Place several empty tuna can around your yard, turn on
your sprinkler for 30 min. Measure water caught in each can, add them up and
take an average. This is the inches of water per half hour. If the paper
advises to water your lawn .75 inches of water if you lawn has not been
irrigated within the past 3 days, then you need to turn on your sprinkler
for 45 min and not water again for 3 days. Turf needs moisture down to 12
inches. Your current schd is not providing water deep enough for a healthily
lawn. You may have to replace some section that may have died due to lack of
deep watering.
Tiff is susceptible to several diseases but try deep watering. Use fert.
according the label instructions. You can burn your lawn by over
fertilizing. Twice in four month may be excessive unless the label advises
you to do so.
The county has very good data sheet on lawn care at thier web site
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm
Hope this helps
GG
----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2002 4:19 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
> We are new to the Valley - East Mesa area. Our new home has a medium
sized tif lawn in the back yard. After having lived here for about 4
months, we have begun to notice brown splotching in the grass. The former
owners had an automatic sprinkler system set to water about 3 times in the
morning and 2 in the afternoon, running only about 3 minutes per section.
We have been told to fertilize with 16-16-16 and have done so twice since
moving in. I am seeking advice on how to prevent this "browning" and any
other helpful information anyone might have for us. Thanks very much.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>
From J_R_Jordan@msn.com Fri May 24 06:17:10 2002
From: J_R_Jordan@msn.com (J_R_Jordan@msn.com)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2002 23:17:10 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200205240617.g4O6HAR10969@Ag.arizona.edu>
I have a common bermuda mixed with dichondra lawn. Most of my dichondra is dying or has very small leaves which eventually die, yet in some areas it is still quite robust. What could be causing this and is there a remedy? If there is none, is it too late in the summer to have sod laid? And is there a recommended turf grass for Maricopa County other than common bermuda. I don't want tif. Are there other options? Thanks.
From kvanmeeteren@ci.glendale.az.us Fri May 24 13:21:42 2002
From: kvanmeeteren@ci.glendale.az.us (kvanmeeteren@ci.glendale.az.us)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 06:21:42 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200205241321.g4ODLgR27431@Ag.arizona.edu>
Easter day at Sahuaro Ranch at the rose garden I had a boy take lighter fluid to the roses. We lost 25 roses. Removed the roses and most of the soil and placed a spill product for hydrocarbons Peatspill and let the soil air for three weeks. Replace the roses and still getting vapor burn. Other than leaching or removing the rest of soil (this can not be done until fall)What other suggestions do you have?
From pamela@U.Arizona.EDU Fri May 24 15:49:18 2002
From: pamela@U.Arizona.EDU (Pamela Tremain Koch)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 08:49:18 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] hollyhock
In-Reply-To: <200205240617.g4O6HAR10969@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID:
I just saw some hollyhock for sale at Home Depot. Will these survive the
summer in Tucson? I was tempted by buy a plant, but wondered about its
heat tolerance.
thanks
Pamela
******
From cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu Fri May 24 19:34:12 2002
From: cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu (Carol Noyes)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 12:34:12 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Incredible Edible Fall FEstival
Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020524121452.00aaa980@ag.arizona.edu>
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Incredible Edible Fall Festival
Saturday, October 20
9AM - 1PM
Washington Adult Center
2240 W. Citrus Way
(23rd Ave South of Glendale Ave)
602-262-6971
Admission is Free
"Can-d-apple" Can Food Drive: Bring in your non-perishable canned good
and receive an apple courtesy of Farmers' Market! (To benefit Homeward Bound)
Co-sponsored by:
AZ Community Farmers' Market Group
AZ Community Action Association
AZ/DES/Aging & Adult Administration
City of Phoenix Departments: Parks, Recreation & Library, Fire, and Police
Maricopa County Office of Nutrition
Simpson Community Association
Valley of the Sun Gardeners Club
Washington Adult Center Volunteer Association
Activities:
9:00 am - 1:00 pm
*Farmers' Market
*Entertainment
*Healthy Eating Tips
*Cooking Demonstrations
*Food Vendors
*Kid's Crafts & Games
-Pudding Finger Painting
-Cereal Necklace Making
-Face Painting (your favorite fruit of vegetable)
-Hoopin Potatoes
-Onion Bowling
-Bean Bag Toss
(game prizes courtesy of Costco)
*Art Exhibit
*Build A Garden To Go
*G.A.I.N. (Getting Arizona Involved in Neighborhoods)
*Pie Eating Contest
*Stuffin Muffin Contest
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Incredible Edible Fall Festival
Saturday, October 20
9AM - 1PM
Washington Adult Center
2240 W. Citrus Way
(23rd Ave South of Glendale Ave)
602-262-6971
Admission is Free
"Can-d-apple" Can Food
Drive: Bring in your non-perishable
canned good and receive an apple courtesy of Farmers' Market! (To
benefit Homeward Bound)
Co-sponsored by:
AZ Community Farmers' Market Group
AZ Community Action Association
AZ/DES/Aging & Adult Administration
City of Phoenix Departments: Parks, Recreation & Library, Fire, and
Police
Maricopa County Office of Nutrition
Simpson Community Association
Valley of the Sun Gardeners Club
Washington Adult Center Volunteer Association
Activities:
9:00 am - 1:00 pm
*Farmers' Market
*Entertainment
*Healthy Eating Tips
*Cooking Demonstrations
*Food Vendors
*Kid's Crafts & Games
-Pudding
Finger Painting
-Cereal
Necklace Making
-Face
Painting (your favorite fruit of vegetable)
-Hoopin
Potatoes
-Onion
Bowling
-Bean Bag
Toss
(game prizes courtesy of Costco)
*Art Exhibit
*Build A Garden To Go
*G.A.I.N. (Getting Arizona Involved in Neighborhoods)
*Pie Eating Contest
*Stuffin Muffin Contest
--=====================_16541840==_.ALT--
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri May 24 19:34:22 2002
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 15:34:22 EDT
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf, hybrid bermuda
Message-ID: <14a.e58f43d.2a1fefbe@aol.com>
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If you decide to replace your existing common bermuda and dichondra lawn with
sod your choices will be limited to the hybrid bermudas and st augustine. A
choice that is similiar to common bermuda is E-Z Turf, it can be cut with a
rotary mower, will handle heavy traffic and is easy to maintain.
Be sure to kill completely the existing bermuda and dichondra before the sod
is laid.
Now until August 1st is the ideal time to lay the sod.
Check out this site for more info on the hybrid bermudas, soil preparation,
and turf care at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html
Possible causes of your existing turf dying out could be inadequate
irrigation or fertilization, compacted soil, insect damage, thatch buildup
and improper mowing.
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
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If you decide to replace your existing common bermuda and dichondra lawn with sod your choices will be limited to the hybrid bermudas and st augustine. A choice that is similiar to common bermuda is E-Z Turf, it can be cut with a rotary mower, will handle heavy traffic and is easy to maintain.
Be sure to kill completely the existing bermuda and dichondra before the sod is laid.
Now until August 1st is the ideal time to lay the sod.
Check out this site for more info on the hybrid bermudas, soil preparation, and turf care at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html
Possible causes of your existing turf dying out could be inadequate irrigation or fertilization, compacted soil, insect damage, thatch buildup and improper mowing.
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_14a.e58f43d.2a1fefbe_boundary--
From copper@bargainsail.com Fri May 24 20:28:32 2002
From: copper@bargainsail.com (Copper Bittner)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 13:28:32 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] hollyhock
In-Reply-To:
Message-ID:
Here in the Phoenix/Chandler area, hollyhocks grow like weeds! Mine top 7
feet tall and are exquisite. The Maricopa County Extension has an
Interpretive garden and it is full of hollyhocks of mixed parentage. They
grow there in full sun and keep reseeding themselves. I got my first one at
their spring plant sale last year and this year it's outdoing itself again.
I am definitely hooked on them.
Why not get in touch with the county extension in Tucson and see what they
say about your area?
Pinal County
Cooperative Extension
820 E. Cottonwood Lane Bldg C
Casa Grande, AZ 85222
Phone: (520) 836-5221
Toll Free: 1-866-836-5221
Fax: (520) 836-1750
Copper Bittner
Master Gardener/Maricopa County
Chandler
-----Original Message-----
From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu
[mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Pamela Tremain
Koch
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2002 8:49 AM
Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: [Arid_gardener] hollyhock
I just saw some holl