From gaye.luna@nau.edu Fri Nov 1 04:34:22 2002 From: gaye.luna@nau.edu (Gaye Luna) Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 21:34:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] fruit tree question Message-ID: <5.0.2.1.2.20021031212350.00a09530@jan.ucc.nau.edu> A landscaping company planted for us grapefruit and oranges trees in mid-May. They survived the heat stress through the summer it seemed just fine. About three weeks ago, we fertilized these two trees with 13-10-4 as recommended by the landscaper, in the tubes around the trees. The trees have green fruit on them. We are watering the trees every 4th day for 2.5 hours (again based on the guidelines set for new trees by the landscaper). However, the leaves, especially at the tops of the trees, are curled/shriveled and not very healthy looking. A few leaves have yellow spots and are dried up. Is this anything wrong? Thank you. These are our first fruit trees in a desert climate. From robert.mongrain@amec.com Fri Nov 1 06:26:37 2002 From: robert.mongrain@amec.com (robert.mongrain@amec.com) Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 23:26:37 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211010626.gA16QaN18478@Ag.arizona.edu> Can I trim my Euryops Daisy now? The plants are large and overgrown, with long brown stems, with clusters of leaves and blooms well away from the plant origin. The plants have (due to neglect)have overtaken the area where they are planted. From KLH718@aol.com Fri Nov 1 16:34:41 2002 From: KLH718@aol.com (KLH718@aol.com) Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2002 11:34:41 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] watering Message-ID: --part1_cf.1f7862db.2af40721_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit background: Last year, when we didn't cover the entire cost of our utilities, we put in a big, beautiful flower bed. This year, ha ha!, we are much more cost-of-utilities conscious, as well as drought-conscious, and I'm not so sure this flower bed was a great idea. There is, however, lots of spring-flowering seed & bulbs in the bed and yes, we'd love to see them again next spring; toadflax & poppies & ranunculus. There is nothing growing in the bed now. question: Do we need to be watering them now, and through the winter, to make them flower in the spring? Or can we hold off until February (Jan.?). Thanks, Karen --part1_cf.1f7862db.2af40721_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit background: Last year, when we didn't cover the entire cost of our utilities, we put in a big, beautiful flower bed. This year, ha ha!, we are much more cost-of-utilities conscious, as well as drought-conscious, and I'm not so sure this flower bed was a great idea. There is, however, lots of spring-flowering seed & bulbs in the bed and yes, we'd love to see them again next spring; toadflax & poppies & ranunculus. There is nothing growing in the bed now.

question: Do we need to be watering them now, and through the winter, to make them flower in the spring? Or can we hold off until February (Jan.?).

Thanks,
Karen --part1_cf.1f7862db.2af40721_boundary-- From copper@bargainsail.com Fri Nov 1 16:40:26 2002 From: copper@bargainsail.com (Copper Bittner) Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2002 09:40:26 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Only 4 cabins left Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_029C_01C2818A.B558F090 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If there is anyone interested in experiencing the flora and fauna of the Baja California Sur on the Spirit of Endeavour embarking January 18th, please contact me very soon. We'll see the interesting native flora on deserted desert islands as well as snorkel and kayak in the blue waters of the Sea of Cortes. Everything is included except airfare. This is going to be a fun and educational trip for Master Gardeners and guests Email me for further information. Copper Bittner Master Gardener 480-802-9709 ------=_NextPart_000_029C_01C2818A.B558F090 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

If = there is anyone=20 interested in experiencing the flora and fauna of the Baja California = Sur on the=20 Spirit of Endeavour embarking January 18th, please contact me very = soon. =20

We'll = see the=20 interesting native flora on deserted desert islands as well as snorkel = and kayak=20 in the blue waters of the Sea of Cortes. Everything is included = except=20 airfare. This is going to be a fun and educational trip for Master = Gardeners and guests

Email = me for further=20 information.

Copper = Bittner

Master = Gardener

480-802-9709

------=_NextPart_000_029C_01C2818A.B558F090-- From KGSWolf@aol.com Fri Nov 1 19:56:09 2002 From: KGSWolf@aol.com (KGSWolf@aol.com) Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2002 14:56:09 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] When to Plant Message-ID: <34.2f8d4317.2af43659@aol.com> Hello: My husband and I have just started gardening this year and we had a question as to when is the best time to plant the following: -Strawberries -Russet Potatoes -Red Onions -Mushrooms -Sugar Snap Peas Also, do the above do well in the Arizona climate? Thank you for your assistance. Kathy Wolf From bradleyl@Ag.arizona.edu Fri Nov 1 21:57:43 2002 From: bradleyl@Ag.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Fri, 01 Nov 2002 14:57:43 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] On-Line Pictures of SW Plants Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20021101144850.01fbfa50@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_1597917==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed ---------- Forwarded message ---------- Date: Fri, 01 Nov 2002 11:14:21 -0700 From: Sam Drake To: arsc@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [arsc] URLs for plant pictures & info Dear ARSC folks, Here are some URLs for those of you wishing to study (mostly) native Southwest plants from your office, when you can't get into the field. http://eebweb.arizona.edu/HERB/plantphotos.html http://aznps.org/html/np_information_az.html http://lsvl.la.asu.edu/herbarium/index.html http://plants.usda.gov/ http://www.hortpix.com/ http://www.plantadviser.com/index.htm http://ag.arizona.edu/cochise/psc/index.htm http://www.desert-tropicals.com/ http://www.botany.com/index.html http://www.desertusa.com/flora.html http://www.gps.caltech.edu/~arid/plants/plants.html http://www.plantsofthesouthwest.com/ http://sanangelo.tamu.edu/agronomy/weeds/ http://tncweeds.ucdavis.edu/photos.html http://www.uapress.arizona.edu/online.bks/weeds/titlweed.htm ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Sam Drake, Ph.D. Assistant Research Scientist Arizona Remote Sensing Center Office of Arid Lands Studies University of Arizona 1955 E. 6th Street Tucson, AZ 85719 (520) 621-4501 (520) 621-3816 fax sdrake@nexus.srnr.arizona.edu ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens --=====================_1597917==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Fri, 01 Nov 2002 11:14:21 -0700
From: Sam Drake <sdrake@nexus.srnr.Arizona.EDU>
To: arsc@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: [arsc] URLs for plant pictures & info

Dear ARSC folks,

Here are some URLs for those of you wishing to study (mostly) native
Southwest plants from your office, when you can't get into the field.

http://eebweb.arizona.edu/HERB/plantphotos.html
http://aznps.org/html/np_information_az.html
http://lsvl.la.asu.edu/herbarium/index.html
http://plants.usda.gov/
http://www.hortpix.com/
http://www.plantadviser.com/index.htm
http://ag.arizona.edu/cochise/psc/index.htm
http://www.desert-tropicals.com/
http://www.botany.com/index.html
http://www.desertusa.com/flora.html
http://www.gps.caltech.edu/~arid/plants/plants.html
http://www.plantsofthesouthwest.com/
http://sanangelo.tamu.edu/agronomy/weeds/
http://tncweeds.ucdavis.edu/photos.html
http://www.uapress.arizona.edu/online.bks/weeds/titlweed.htm

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Sam Drake, Ph.D.
Assistant Research Scientist
Arizona Remote Sensing Center
Office of Arid Lands Studies
University of Arizona
1955 E. 6th Street
Tucson, AZ 85719
(520) 621-4501
(520) 621-3816 fax
sdrake@nexus.srnr.arizona.edu
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I have some tomatoes that are just now turning = from the=20 green to the whitish stage. I hope to ripen them before frost = around Nov=20 27. Is there anything I can do to hasten ripening? Should I = pinch=20 off all flowers and tiny fruit at this point? Should I trim back = branches=20 to put energy into ripening? Should I cover with remay? = Clear=20 plastic? Etc.

------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C28288.783B23A0-- From kleinaz@msn.com Sun Nov 3 00:29:33 2002 From: kleinaz@msn.com (kleinaz@msn.com) Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 17:29:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211030029.gA30TXN22760@Ag.arizona.edu> HELP. I have two citrus trees, one orange & one grapefruit. I have alot of dead branches in the orange tree. When is the month to cut them out? On the grapefruit tree, I have yellow leaves. Too much water or not enough? I have no clue. Thanks. From amcs88@hotmail.com Sun Nov 3 01:38:50 2002 From: amcs88@hotmail.com (amcs88@hotmail.com) Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 18:38:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211030138.gA31coN28407@Ag.arizona.edu> Following storm damage, we recently had to remove 10 very large, old salt cedar (tamarisk) trees from our property in Chandler AZ. These trees ran along our neighborhood irrigation delivery ditch and received plenty of water regularly. We are ready to replace the trees and need suggestions for a type/types of trees that will meet most or all of the following criteria: 1. Able to withstand the regular water, 2. Low or no litter to clog irrigation ditch, 3. Adequate provision, over time, of shade for our horses, 4. No poisonous components (i.e. to harm livestock/pets), 5. Prefer local varieties, but criteria 1-4 most important. One other related question -- If you recommend a variety, what size will it grow to, and how quickly does it grow? Thanks so much! From ASUsped@aol.com Sun Nov 3 04:04:49 2002 From: ASUsped@aol.com (ASUsped@aol.com) Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 23:04:49 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Shasta Daisies Message-ID: <147.1d205fd.2af5fa61@aol.com> I have received this email from a friend of mine in Gilbert, AZ and I was wondering if anyone would help with some inforamtion....Mike <<.....Anyone knows if Shasta Daisies (from seed) would be compatible with sweet peas, as far as, trying to produce a coordinated bloom? I am lucky enough to be living on 3/4 of an acre which receives irrigation. My sweet peas are doing quite well and I wanted to plant something in front of them bordering a sidewalk....was thinking Linaria or Shasta Daisies would be rather show stopping. Any ideas?>> From rmwoods62@juno.com Sun Nov 3 05:31:57 2002 From: rmwoods62@juno.com (rmwoods62@juno.com) Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 22:31:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211030531.gA35VvN17273@Ag.arizona.edu> Need infomation on grafting citrus. Not bud grafting. My tangerine tree died, it was only three years old. I left it alone ater it died and later it started new branchs from the base of the old tree. These limbs are wild or sour orange they have many thhrones on the limbs. I want to graft a healthy tangerine limb from my neighbors tree to this base. Thank you. Robt Woods From WayOffTheRoad@aol.com Sun Nov 3 18:03:45 2002 From: WayOffTheRoad@aol.com (WayOffTheRoad@aol.com) Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 13:03:45 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Habiscus Tree Question Message-ID: <1c4.10a4fa2.2af6bf01@aol.com> We have 2 habiscus trees which are planted in the ground. They have been doing beautifully throughout the spring and summer and have grown tremendously. We live in the eastern part of NC where the temperatures are beginning to get cold (~35 degrees at night). We are thinking about digging them up and putting them in large pots and bringing them inside for the cold months. Is that the right thing to do? One is a braided trunk and the other is a straight trunk. Any information you could give us would be greatly appreciated as we want to do this within the next day or so. Thanks much! The Kellys From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Sat Nov 2 20:46:28 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 13:46:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] bushes dying Message-ID: <001e01c282b0$ec344a20$4a31db43@ibmbna6040> Esther, Southern Arizona and particularly the Phoenix area has been under drought conditions for five years, this year has been one of the hottest and dryest on record. Pittosporum and pyracantha are both moderate water use plants and should have more water then is supplied by turf watering. Turf irrigation is typically only 6 to 8 inches deep, shrubs should be watered to a two foot depth. It has been a tough year on roses and especially if they do not get special care. Improper irrigation causes plants to be stressed and stressed plants are quite susceptable to attack by disease and insects. Check out this site for more info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: e1s2adler@juno.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Friday, November 01, 2002 3:58 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] bushes dying >Hi! > >Bushes which have been healthy for the more than twenty years we have lived here in Glendale are dying. About a year ago the pyracantha espaliered on our garage began to die--withering gradually spreading from one side to the other until it was all dead. Our neighbor complained that roses in her yard were also dying. > >Last month we noticed that a large Pittosporum bush on the opposite side of the garage was beginning to die, and it is now completely dead. The Pittosporum variegata right next to it still looks healthy and we would hate to lose it too. Is there anything we can do? We have never specially watered these plants and they seemed to do well without watering (except some from watering the lawn). We did water the dying Pittosporum but it didn't help. > >Another peculiarity is that the 3 jujube trees which usually bear loads of fruit did not set any this year although they did bloom. > >Any help you can offer will be greatly appreciated. > Sincerely, Esther Adler > > > > >________________________________________________________________ >Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today >Only $9.95 per month! >Visit www.juno.com >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From g.ross@mindspring.com Mon Nov 4 16:50:03 2002 From: g.ross@mindspring.com (g.ross@mindspring.com) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 09:50:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211041650.gA4Go3N27089@Ag.arizona.edu> We have two Ficus Nitinda(sp?) trees that need the help of an arborist or someone who is capable with with this variety. The trees are healthy but they have unfortunently been trimmed as large hedges for about 5 years. They need to be opened up and trimmed to look like a tree but I want someone who has experience with the proper approach to this tree variety rather than the guy traveling down the street with a pickup truck and a chain saw. These trees are the focal point in our back yard so the outcome is important to us. Any recommendations? Sincerly Gary Ross From imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net Mon Nov 4 17:45:15 2002 From: imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 10:45:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Another question References: <149.1cbdfe3.2af56c48@aol.com> Message-ID: <005a01c28429$fa47cbd0$7f51530c@delljor9501> ----- Original Message -----From: >...Are there any other fruits or vegetables we can plant at this time - or will > the colder weather just kill everything off. We live in the Valley area near > Scottsdale There is an extensive list of cool season vegetables that can be planted at this time at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1005.pdf The vegetables listed for October-November planting will survive our usual light frosts but could be damaged on those rare occasions when the late-night to early-morning temps fall down into the 20s. Seed germination is more slow and less reliable from mid November through January but transplants can be set out at any time. You can usually find healthy transplants at garden centers like Baker Nursery, Summer Winds or Harper's. Some of the frost-tender warm season vegetables can also be grown but need to be protected from an occasional light frost, e.g., using plastic tunnels, frost blankets, Wall O' Water, etc. Why not also try growing a few culinary herbs along with the vegetables? Many herbs grown elsewhere as perennials are grown here as annuals and planted in October and November. Herb transplants are currently available at the garden centers listed above as well as the Home Depots and Lowes stores. To see herbs that are typically grown here, I would suggest a tour of the Coop Extension's gardens at 4341 E. Broadway Road in Phoenix where the AZ Herb Assn. maintains a representative herb garden. Grapes, berries and deciduous fruit trees listed in the publication at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1269/ are usually available as relatively inexpensive bare root plants in garden center from late December through February and can be planted at that time. Trees can also be transplanted at any time from containers at any time but results seem to be better when transplanted during the cool months so the roots can become established before new spring growth. Olin Miller . From Sleepwboss@aol.com Mon Nov 4 19:22:57 2002 From: Sleepwboss@aol.com (Sleepwboss@aol.com) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 14:22:57 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] speeding up ripening tomatoes? Message-ID: --part1_a2.2e92ad6e.2af82311_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable In a message dated 11/4/02 10:38:32 AM Central Standard Time,=20 jkandell@sysmatrix.net writes: > I have some tomatoes that are just now turning from the green to the whiti= sh=20 > stage. I hope to ripen them before frost around Nov 27. Is there anythin= g=20 > I can do to hasten ripening? =20 JK-- Rebecca's Garden Episode #3003 from 10/12/98 transcript at=20 www.rebeccasgarden.com has this tip on ripening green tomatoes:=A0=20 =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 Shake Up Your Tomato Roots - take a garden fork and pu= sh it into the=20 ground about 12 inches from the stem of the tomato plant. =A0 Rock the fork=20 back and forth. =A0 Do this all the way around, being careful not to uproot=20= the=20 plant. =A0 Now by disturbing the root system, you have stressed the plant.=20= =A0=20 This will actually shut off any more energy that goes to growing larger=20 tomatoes. =A0 When you shut off the growing process, it turns on the ripenin= g=20 process. =A0 This works great if you do it a few weeks before your first=20 expected frost. =A0 If frost is in the forecast before they ripened be sure=20= to=20 harvest the tomatoes. Since your frost date is coming up fast you may want to take action soon. =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 To Ripen Green tomatoes off the vine - Line a shallow con= tainer with=20 newspaper, then, carefully, place the blemish-free tomatoes on top. =A0 Its=20 important not to let the tomatoes touch each other and do not wrap the=20 tomatoes with newspaper. =A0 Keep an eye on them in case of rot. =A0 Remove=20= any=20 spoiled tomatoes so you don't lose the whole bunch. The next step is to stor= e=20 them in a cool, dark location. =A0 When they start turning colors bring then= up=20 on your kitchen counter and you will soon have fresh ripe tomatoes. Lee Ann Aronson Master Gardener --part1_a2.2e92ad6e.2af82311_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable In a message dated 11/4/02 10:38:32 AM Central S= tandard Time, jkandell@sysmatrix.net writes:

I have some tomatoes th= at are just now turning from the green to the whitish stage. I hope to= ripen them before frost around Nov 27. Is there anything I can do to=20= hasten ripening?

JK--
Rebecca's Garden Episode #3003 from 10/12/98 transcript at www.rebeccasgarde= n.com has this tip on ripening green tomatoes:=A0

=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 Shake Up Your Tomato Roots - take a garden fork= and push it into the ground about 12 inches from the stem of the tomato pla= nt. =A0 Rock the fork back and forth. =A0 Do this all the way around, being=20= careful not to uproot the plant. =A0 Now by disturbing the root system, you=20= have stressed the plant. =A0 This will actually shut off any more energy tha= t goes to growing larger tomatoes. =A0 When you shut off the growing process= , it turns on the ripening process. =A0 This works great if you do it a few=20= weeks before your first expected frost. =A0 If frost is in the forecast befo= re they ripened be sure to harvest the tomatoes.

Since your frost date is coming up fast you may want to take action soon.
=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 To Ripen Green tomatoes off the vine - Line a shal= low container with newspaper, then, carefully, place the blemish-free tomato= es on top. =A0 Its important not to let the tomatoes touch each other and do= not wrap the tomatoes with newspaper. =A0 Keep an eye on them in case of ro= t. =A0 Remove any spoiled tomatoes so you don't lose the whole bunch. The ne= xt step is to store them in a cool, dark location. =A0 When they start turni= ng colors bring then up on your kitchen counter and you will soon have fresh= ripe tomatoes.

Lee Ann Aronson
Master Gardener

--part1_a2.2e92ad6e.2af82311_boundary-- From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Mon Nov 4 23:05:17 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 16:05:17 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus trees, pruning Message-ID: <004901c28456$a5697140$4904e043@ibmbna6040> Removing dead branches from your citrus tree can be done any time. Check out this site for info on watering your citrus: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: kleinaz@msn.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, November 04, 2002 9:38 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >HELP. I have two citrus trees, one orange & one grapefruit. I have alot of dead branches in the orange tree. When is the month to cut them out? On the grapefruit tree, I have yellow leaves. Too much water or not enough? I have no clue. Thanks. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Mon Nov 4 23:22:57 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 16:22:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Corrective Pruning Message-ID: <005401c28459$1d203140$4904e043@ibmbna6040> Correcting your Ficus nitida that has been pruned as a hedge is a difficult if not impossible job. I suggest that you call in a Certified Arborist for an appraisal. He would certainly be the best qualified to do the job if it can be done. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: g.ross@mindspring.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, November 04, 2002 10:05 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >We have two Ficus Nitinda(sp?) trees that need the help of an arborist or someone who is capable with with this variety. The trees are healthy but they have unfortunently been trimmed as large hedges for about 5 years. They need to be opened up and trimmed to look like a tree but I want someone who has experience with the proper approach to this tree variety rather than the guy traveling down the street with a pickup truck and a chain saw. These trees are the focal point in our back yard so the outcome is important to us. Any recommendations? >Sincerly >Gary Ross > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From sbeckma1523@earthlink.net Mon Nov 4 23:16:23 2002 From: sbeckma1523@earthlink.net (sbeckma1523@earthlink.net) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 16:16:23 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211042316.gA4NGNN09028@Ag.arizona.edu> Seven year old Arizona Ash tree has about six holes bored about the size of a pencil eraser where the limbs meet the trunk. What is doing this and what can be done about it? Thanks for your information. From imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net Mon Nov 4 23:28:08 2002 From: imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 16:28:08 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] speeding up ripening tomatoes? References: Message-ID: <004501c28459$d96cd7e0$a453530c@delljor9501> Cool weather, short days and reduced sunlight will lengthen the time to ripen. I have kept tomato plants alive all winter and some of the fruit from November stayed green all winter and did not ripen until late February. I do not believe the plants expend much energy in the ripening process. And I doubt that removing blossoms will have much of an effect. With your cool Tucson weather, it isn't likely that the blossoms will set fruit so wouldn't hurt to remove them. I would pick some of the "whitish" fruits and place them in a paper grocery bag to ripen. Sunlight would be best - here the sun is still pretty intense at mid afternoon but it might be okay in Tucson. Some of people pick and fry green tomatoes. Olin From copper@bargainsail.com Tue Nov 5 01:43:28 2002 From: copper@bargainsail.com (Copper Bittner) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 18:43:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Corrective Pruning In-Reply-To: <200211041650.gA4Go3N27089@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: To make it easier for you to follow Rod's advice, below is a link to use. http://www.isa-arbor.com/arborists/arbsearch.html This is a site with additional links for almost any horticultural questions. It is part of the University of Arizona County Extension website. Lot's of good browsing is here. Copper Bittner Master Gardener/Maricopa County Chandler AZ -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of g.ross@mindspring.com Sent: Monday, November 04, 2002 9:50 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have two Ficus Nitinda(sp?) trees that need the help of an arborist or someone who is capable with with this variety. The trees are healthy but they have unfortunently been trimmed as large hedges for about 5 years. They need to be opened up and trimmed to look like a tree but I want someone who has experience with the proper approach to this tree variety rather than the guy traveling down the street with a pickup truck and a chain saw. These trees are the focal point in our back yard so the outcome is important to us. Any recommendations? Sincerly Gary Ross _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From 4landm@cox.net Tue Nov 5 02:38:48 2002 From: 4landm@cox.net (Lee and Myrna) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 19:38:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sweet Brooms Message-ID: <000e01c28474$78241aa0$79246244@ph.cox.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C28439.CB7A7E00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have 4 shrubs called Cytisus spachianus. I have had them planted for = about 6 months and they seem to be stalled and on the verge of not = growing. Looking quite stalky and dropping leaves. I have tried = several amendments to the soil, including First Step and not getting to = good of results. The plants common name is Sweet Brooms. Any = suggestions? Lee ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C28439.CB7A7E00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I have 4 shrubs called = Cytisus=20 spachianus. I have had them planted for about 6 months and they = seem to be=20 stalled and on the verge of not growing. Looking quite stalky and = dropping=20 leaves. I have tried several amendments to the soil, including = First Step=20 and not getting to good of results. The plants common name is = Sweet=20 Brooms. Any suggestions?

Lee

------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C28439.CB7A7E00-- From labs5@cox.net Tue Nov 5 16:13:20 2002 From: labs5@cox.net (labs5@cox.net) Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 09:13:20 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211051613.gA5GDKN20172@Ag.arizona.edu> Help - My compost pile has been invaded by small red ants and I think their starting a new world in there! Is there anyway to organically get rid of them? I tried diatomaceous earth which didn't seem to do anything. I never had this problem with other compost piles. From imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net Tue Nov 5 20:40:49 2002 From: imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 13:40:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Ants in Compost References: <200211051613.gA5GDKN20172@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000a01c2850b$a7c930f0$e852530c@delljor9501> Some people believe ants in compost are beneficial. They feed on all sorts of stuff and drag it into the pile and move it around. But the little red ants have a sharp bite and are usually not encouraged. They will usually only move in if the compost pile is relatively dry. The first step might be prevention by keeping the pile working, i.e., moist and hot but it appears to be too late for that. If you can locate the nest you can kill the ants with boiling water but that is only temporary and will not wipe out the colony.. Orange peels or lemon rinds blended with water works for some people. Boric acid works but you would not want in it your vegetable garden soil. Many of the commercial organic controls contain boric acid. Amdro is very effective but doesn't meet your organic requirement. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > Help - My compost pile has been invaded by small red ants and I think their starting a new world in there! Is there anyway to organically get rid of them? I tried diatomaceous earth which didn't seem to do anything. I never had this problem with other compost piles. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From kgpauley@cox.net Wed Nov 6 01:56:34 2002 From: kgpauley@cox.net (kgpauley@cox.net) Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 18:56:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211060156.gA61uYN28235@Ag.arizona.edu> I have sweet corn currently in the pollination stage. We received hail last week, but I don't think it damaged my crop to any great degree. My concern is the yellow to brown edge on the lower leaves of my stalks. Does this indicate a water issue, a nutrient issue, or perhaps a pest of some sort? From lirigloria@hotmail.com Wed Nov 6 04:55:41 2002 From: lirigloria@hotmail.com (gloria) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 00:55:41 -0400 Subject: [Arid_gardener] paalo verde seed Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C2852F.3B2F2DE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable please send information about germination palo verde seed does it germinate outside of dessert regions ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C2852F.3B2F2DE0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

please send information about = germination palo=20 verde seed

does it germinate outside of dessert=20 regions

------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C2852F.3B2F2DE0-- From meljoyceevans@aol.com Wed Nov 6 22:22:04 2002 From: meljoyceevans@aol.com (meljoyceevans@aol.com) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 15:22:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211062222.gA6MM4N10259@Ag.arizona.edu> I am considering planting a grape vine and would appreciate guidance on the best for eating, when and where to plant and plant care. I live in the Chandler area. Thank you very much. From colettecb@cox.net Wed Nov 6 23:58:33 2002 From: colettecb@cox.net (colettecb@cox.net) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 16:58:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211062358.gA6NwXN29675@Ag.arizona.edu> I recently moved to Arizona and am unsure of which plants and flowers I need cover during the winter to prevent frost damage. Is there a list available anywhere? (Some of the flowering shrubs I have are: hibiscus, bougainvilla, lantana, gardenia, ruellia.) Thank you very much! From w81269@msn.com Thu Nov 7 01:35:27 2002 From: w81269@msn.com (w81269@msn.com) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 18:35:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211070135.gA71ZRN13100@Ag.arizona.edu> What do I need to do to move a 5' saguaro roughly 150'? From W81269@msn.com Thu Nov 7 01:59:00 2002 From: W81269@msn.com (W. Hunter) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 18:59:00 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] saguaro Message-ID: ------=_NextPart_001_0001_01C285C6.91353F80 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" What do I need to know to relocate a 5' saguaro 150'? Thank you-William ------=_NextPart_001_0001_01C285C6.91353F80 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

What do I need= to know to relocate a 5' saguaro 150'?

Than= k you-William

------=_NextPart_001_0001_01C285C6.91353F80-- From Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com Thu Nov 7 15:31:39 2002 From: Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com (Zelhart Alan-rpcs30) Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 08:31:39 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] What plants need frost protection... Message-ID: <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B99307040511EF@az33exm25.corp.mot.com> Collette, What part of Arizona are you in? Assuming you are in Metro-Phoenix, the bougainvillea and the lantana might receive some frost damage, I don't cover them, they tend to grow like crazy anyway, so in the spring, I just cut off all the dead growth. I have never had either die completely from frost. It seems mostly just tender new growth can be frost bit. I suspect the Gardenia as well, although I have never grown that myself. My Hibiscus have never had any problem with winter kill from frost in Metro-Phoenix. I'm not aware of a list, but I bet someone here is, and can better address that question :) -- Chat with you later... ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 *** Check out all the new Garden Pics from around the world - "My Friends Gardens" *** http://www.GardenersCorner.com If you live to the age of a hundred you have it made because very few people die past the age of a hundred. - George Burns -----Original Message----- From: colettecb@cox.net [mailto:colettecb@cox.net] Sent: Wednesday, November 06, 2002 4:59 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I recently moved to Arizona and am unsure of which plants and flowers I need cover during the winter to prevent frost damage. Is there a list available anywhere? (Some of the flowering shrubs I have are: hibiscus, bougainvilla, lantana, gardenia, ruellia.) Thank you very much! _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Nov 7 22:36:33 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 22:36:33 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] saguaro transplant Message-ID: Cacti are usually transplanted in the warm summer months rather than in fall/winter. How Do I Move A Saguaro? (reprinted from the Arizona Sonora Desert Museum Botany Helpline) If you are moving a saguaro on your own property, no legal tag is required. However, if you want to move a saguaro from someone else's property to yours, a native plant tag issued by the Arizona Department of Agriculture is required, along with the landowner's written permission. A 6-foot tall saguaro can weigh several hundred pounds and requires a few people to move it safely. First, mark the south side of the plant so it will be replanted in the original orientation. Use lengths of old garden hose to wrap around the saguaro - these act as handles. Dig out the plant by digging a donut-shaped hole around it, starting at least 12-18 inches from the base. Use a saw to cut the larger roots. Anchoring roots go straight down, so undercut about 2 feet deep, then gently lay the plant down. If it is not planted immediately, cover to protect from sunburn. Use a saw and pruners to neatly cut all roots to minimize the exposed wounds. Replant the saguaro at the same depth as it was originally growing. Fill in with sandy soil and tamp in well. Water after a couple of weeks or so and continue to water every few weeks. An armless saguaro, well planted, should not require staking. Large rocks at the base can help stabilize the plant if it becomes unsteady. Watch for sunburning and cover the saguaro with shade cloth if needed. There's a large saguaro in my yard that fell down after the last storm. What should I do? You have three options (assuming the plant is 8-10 feet tall). It can be left in place and you can enjoy the natural decay cycle unfold over the next several weeks. The saguaro can be cut up into small, 1-2 foot-long sections and disposed of like other landscape waste. If it is unbroken and the roots are not torn away from the plant's base, it may be possible to upright and replant it. This procedure requires machinery and careful planning. Contact a landscape professional for help. -------- I believe the Desert Botanical Garden has excellent advice (and success) moving saguaro. Give them a call. Linda Drew Pima County Master Gardener >From: "W. Hunter" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] saguaro >Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 18:59:00 -0700 > >What do I need to know to relocate a 5' saguaro 150'? > >Thank you-William _________________________________________________________________ STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Nov 7 22:44:55 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 22:44:55 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] cold tolereance Message-ID: Check your library or bookstore for the "Pruning, Planting and Care" book by Eric A. Johnson. It has lots of great information, including a table of cold tolerances. hibiscus 15-25 degrees F. bougainvilla 28-30 lantana 28 gardenia 20-22 ruellia 28 Bougainvillea, lantana and ruellia are often allowed to freeze back to the ground; they will regrow in the spring. Hibiscus and gardenia probably need cold protection. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: colettecb@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 16:58:33 -0700 (MST) > >I recently moved to Arizona and am unsure of which plants and flowers I >need cover during the winter to prevent frost damage. Is there a list >available anywhere? (Some of the flowering shrubs I have are: hibiscus, >bougainvilla, lantana, gardenia, ruellia.) Thank you very much! > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Nov 7 23:25:30 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 23:25:30 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] grapes Message-ID: Here in Tucson we grow black beauty, flame and Thompson's seedless very successfully. Thompson, Flame, BlackMonukka and Perlette were listed as good for table grapes and raisin-making. Cardinal and Exotic were suggested for table or jelly. Concord can do well. Here is aresponse to an earlier question: We have a publication called Backyard Grapes which you can order from the Cooperative Extension service. The publication is number MC 59 and you can view information on ordering it at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Some branches of the library have a binder containing our publications. If you choose to check there, ask the librarian for binder 635 General Reference. The title is Horticulture Publications. Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 (602) 470-8086 ext. 301 8:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. Monday through Friday --------------- Some additional information I found in the book Desert Gardening, by George Brookbank is that when you plant your grape, you should dig a big hole at least 2 feet square x 2 feet deep. Get through any caliche. Then backfill with soil mixed with compost or steer manure, ammonium phosphate and sulphur. He says 1-1/2 cubic feet of compost or steer manure, 2 lbs of sulphur and 1/2 lb of ammonium phosphate. This book has quite a bit of information of growing grapes. You might want to take a look at a copy. Sue Bass Master Gardener ----------- Grapes grow very well here in souther Arizona. They are easy to start from cuttings in January. I'm layering them into 5 gallon pots now ~ cuttings are difficult except in the winter. George Brookbanks "Desert Gardening" lists varieties that do well in Tuscon. My experience is only with Thompson, Flame and Ruby Seedless here near Phoenix. You want to grow them enough away from any structure so that you can walk around them without touching them. The grape leaf skeletonizer can be a big problem; it's fuzz is very irritating to my skin; however, the birds have cleaned them up without my having to do a thing to control them at all. My plants are inside a cage which can be bird proof during grape production. Grapes provide wonderful shade and an evaporative cooler effect for strawberries, however, grapes need to have water withheld in the fall to help them become dormant just exactly when strawberries are making runners and gathering strength for next spring's crop. A better companion plant for grapes is asparagus. Grapes make too much shade to be anywhere except north or west of vegetables. Since they are fairly permanent, you need to plan for future garden efforts before planting them. I prefer Flame and Ruby because Thompson needs to have 10 buds left after pruning in order to make grapes.....this is called "cane pruning" rather than spur pruning which can be done with Flame and Ruby. The spur pruning is easier for me. Good luck. Dawn Kazmer ------------ Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: meljoyceevans@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 15:22:04 -0700 (MST) > >I am considering planting a grape vine and would appreciate guidance on the >best for eating, when and where to plant and plant care. I live in the >Chandler area. Thank you very much. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Nov 7 23:29:45 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 23:29:45 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] paalo verde seed Message-ID: I do not have information about growing palo verde ouutside desert regions, but imagine they would need cold protection in most areas. Here is a response to an earlier question: Most seeds get a better start if they are scarified in some way. In the wild, they may have been softened by acid in the gut-track of an animal or otherwise chipped against rocks in a wash after a rain. Try to file the outside of the seed a bit. Maybe even soaking a few in water to see if they sprout better than others. Since you will probably be starting these in containers, I don't see why you couldn't begin now. Linda Guy Master Gardener -------------- Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "gloria" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] paalo verde seed >Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 00:55:41 -0400 > >please send information about germination palo verde seed >does it germinate outside of dessert regions _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Nov 7 23:41:13 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 23:41:13 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sweet Brooms Message-ID: I don't have direct experience with sweet broom. a failure to grow can be the result of too much or too little water, or perhaps soil in contact with the bark (planted too deeply). Check the watering schedule using a moisture meter and a soil probe. Dig at the base of the roots and you should find roots in the first inch -- pull soil away if you don't. The problem could also be caused if the plant was rootbound when you planted -- did you notice roots circling the pot? You probably don't want to add fertilizers or additional amendments now. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Lee and Myrna" <4landm@cox.net> >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sweet Brooms >Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 19:38:48 -0700 > >I have 4 shrubs called Cytisus spachianus. I have had them planted for >about 6 months and they seem to be stalled and on the verge of not growing. > Looking quite stalky and dropping leaves. I have tried several >amendments to the soil, including First Step and not getting to good of >results. The plants common name is Sweet Brooms. Any suggestions? > >Lee _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Nov 7 23:48:30 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 23:48:30 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus prunig and care Message-ID: Response to a similar question: Citrus should never be pruned except to remove dead wood or to keep the tree within bounds, or to remove sucker growth from below the graft.The pruning can be done any time however spring is the preferable time. Do not ever take off more than 25% at any time or more than 1/3 in one year. An excellent bulletin titled Citrus Trees in the Home Garden is available from the U. of A. Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix, 85040 for one dollar. This bulletin addresses all phases of citrus care. Good luck. Rod ------------------ Since you have many dead branches, carefully check your irrigation plan. ou can view an excellent publication on irrigating citrus at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Sue Bass Master Gardener ------------------- Yellow leaves can be the result of too much water, too little water, nutrient deficiency or just normal aging. The above publications should help. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: kleinaz@msn.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 17:29:33 -0700 (MST) > >HELP. I have two citrus trees, one orange & one grapefruit. I have alot of >dead branches in the orange tree. When is the month to cut them out? On the >grapefruit tree, I have yellow leaves. Too much water or not enough? I have >no clue. Thanks. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From pcullan@hotmail.com Fri Nov 8 05:08:30 2002 From: pcullan@hotmail.com (pcullan@hotmail.com) Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 22:08:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211080508.gA858UN24101@Ag.arizona.edu> I am interested in building square gardening planters at out school, with a little help from some other parents. I am considering using the new wood made out of recycled milk bottles and cedar shavings. Called Trek (I think) Has anyone out there tried this new wood yet? Any idea on costs, longevity, etc? Thanks, Pam From Trxienme@cox.net Fri Nov 8 17:42:43 2002 From: Trxienme@cox.net (Trxienme@cox.net) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 10:42:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211081742.gA8HghN04436@Ag.arizona.edu> We had several mature saguaro cacti translanted onto our property this August. The nurseryman stated not to do additional watering. We notice that they are turning yellowish with soft spongy skin. Please advise. From webmaster@amwest-travel.com Fri Nov 8 20:41:18 2002 From: webmaster@amwest-travel.com (webmaster@amwest-travel.com) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 13:41:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211082041.gA8KfIN13508@Ag.arizona.edu> I've had a successful vegetable garden in Phoenix for years. Last few years, I've had problems with plants stunted and dying, leaves browning from bottom up. Melon and eggplant were once prolific; now can't grow at all. Tomatos and peppers still grow but plants are stunted. Tried peas this fall; they grew a few inches and died. This year, insects were clearly NOT the problem. I assume problem is salinity or alkaline soil. How can I tell? How do I resolve the problem? Thanks, Joe From azrish@cs.com Fri Nov 8 21:18:04 2002 From: azrish@cs.com (azrish@cs.com) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 14:18:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211082118.gA8LI4N20968@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a problem with white flies on my grapevines. What is the best way to control these? From cstephens@infinet-is.com Fri Nov 8 22:04:34 2002 From: cstephens@infinet-is.com (Charles Stephens) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 15:04:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Stunted/Dying References: <200211082041.gA8KfIN13508@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <002801c28772$d34f3440$bd86dfd1@default> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0025_01C28738.25E554E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Joe, It sounds like the problem could be root knot nematodes. I suggest that = you look at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/diseases/az1187.pdf. This = publication describes the nasty little critters and gives directions for = sampling roots and soil. If you decide to send a sample to the plant = pathology lab., be sure to follow the sampling instructions carefully. I that hope my tentative diagnosis is wrong! Good Luck, Charlie Stephens Master Gardener Phoenix ----- Original Message -----=20 From: webmaster@amwest-travel.com=20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Friday, November 08, 2002 1:41 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I've had a successful vegetable garden in Phoenix for years. Last few years, I've had problems with plants stunted and dying, leaves browning from bottom up. Melon and eggplant were once prolific; now can't grow at all. Tomatos and peppers still grow but plants are stunted. Tried peas this fall; they grew a few inches and died. This year, insects were clearly NOT the problem. I assume problem is salinity or alkaline soil. How can I tell? How do I resolve the problem? Thanks, Joe _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener ------=_NextPart_000_0025_01C28738.25E554E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Joe,

It sounds like the problem could be = root knot=20 nematodes. I suggest that you look at http://ag.arizona= .edu/pubs/diseases/az1187.pdf.=20 This publication describes the nasty little critters and gives = directions for=20 sampling roots and soil. If you decide to send a sample to the plant = pathology=20 lab., be sure to follow the sampling instructions = carefully.

I that hope my tentative diagnosis is=20 wrong!

Good Luck,

Charlie Stephens
Master=20 Gardener
Phoenix

----- Original Message -----

From:=20 webmaster@amwest-travel.com =

To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu =

Sent: Friday, November 08, 2002 = 1:41=20 PM

Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Question from=20 Home-Hort WWW page

I've had a successful vegetable garden in = Phoenix
for years.=20 Last few years, I've had problems
with plants stunted and dying, = leaves=20 browning from
bottom up. Melon and eggplant were once prolific;=20 now
can't grow at all. Tomatos and peppers still grow but
plants = are=20 stunted. Tried peas this fall; they grew a
few inches and died. = This year,=20 insects were clearly
NOT the problem. I assume problem is salinity=20 or
alkaline soil. How can I tell? How do I resolve
the = problem? =20 Thanks,=20 = Joe

_______________________________________________
Arid_garden= er=20 mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu=
http://Ag.A= rizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
------=_NextPart_000_0025_01C28738.25E554E0-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Nov 8 22:39:14 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 08 Nov 2002 22:39:14 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] whiteflies on grape Message-ID: check out this website for information on whiteflies: http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/insects/whiteflies.html "The control method that has been shown to be most effective to date for homeowners is a spray of detergent and water. Because this mix may harm certain plants, it is best to start with one teaspoon of liquid detergent per gallon of water and spray a few leaves. Wait at least twelve hours, and check the plant. If there are no signs of wilting or burning, go ahead and spray the whole plant. If the plant seems to tolerate the low dose, the next time you may want to gradually increase the dosage per gallon with each spray, up to 2 tablespoons per gallon. Make sure to cover the underside of leaves where the immatures are hidden. Repeat every three to four days as needed. Lawn and garden supply stores will carry soap sprays that require little or no mixing. Whiteflies may be excluded from garden beds using polyethylene row covers. Whitefly numbers should decrease naturally as the weather becomes cooler." Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: azrish@cs.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 14:18:04 -0700 (MST) > >I have a problem with white flies on my grapevines. What is the best way >to control these? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From Norman.Kur@aps.com Fri Nov 8 23:00:06 2002 From: Norman.Kur@aps.com (Kur, Norman (Z57968)) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 16:00:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Watering Schedules Message-ID: I have a question about watering schedules. Basically, over the past few months I had so many issues with my sprinkler/irrigation system that I finally replaced the whole thing. Now, my system consists of 6 zones and I wanted to ask you how often I should water each of them, i.e., how many days per week and for how many minutes. Also, could you please differentiate between summer and winter schedules? Thank you very much for any advice you can provide. Zones 1, 2 and 3 are for my bermuda grass lawn. I have decided not to plant winter grass this year in order to be water conscious. Zone 4 is a drip line with 1 gallon per hour emitters that provide water to all plants, bushes and shrubs. There are rose bushes, hedges of some kind and a couple of other bushes/plants. Zone 5 is a drip line (also with 1 gal/hour emitters) providing water to all non-pine trees, e.g. palms, sumacs and one mesquite tree. Zone 6 is also a drop line (1 gal/hour emitters) providing water to all pine trees. I know this is a lot to ask of you, but again, any advise or help you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again. Norm Kur From deschu@cox.net Sat Nov 9 03:30:19 2002 From: deschu@cox.net (deschu@cox.net) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 20:30:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211090330.gA93UJN18276@Ag.arizona.edu> My eight year old "century plant" died. It had six baby plants around it. It rotted from the bottom although there was no water on it. How do I transplant them? Why did the mother plant die? From penderpaige1@earthlink.net Sat Nov 9 04:42:13 2002 From: penderpaige1@earthlink.net (Paige Lycett) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 20:42:13 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit tree Message-ID: <000d01c287aa$60890de0$1e7879a5@your6kr4zxld90> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C28767.5164FFB0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Dear Arid Gardener, We just arrived at our new digs in Palm Springs to find the grapefruit = and lemon tree looking a little 'off color'. Seems some of the leaves = are turning yellow and dropping. Is this normal for this time of year = or do you think we might have a problem? We know nothing about citrus = so started with the internet. If you have time could you possibly give us some suggestions. Thanks, Janet ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C28767.5164FFB0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Dear Arid Gardener,

We just arrived at our new digs = in Palm=20 Springs to find the grapefruit and lemon tree looking a little 'off=20 color'. Seems some of the leaves are turning yellow and = dropping. Is=20 this normal for this time of year or do you think we might have a = problem? =20 We know nothing about citrus so started with the internet.

If you have time could you = possibly=20 give us some suggestions.

Thanks,

Janet

------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C28767.5164FFB0-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Nov 9 12:48:26 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 09 Nov 2002 12:48:26 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen palms, center sprout breaking Message-ID: Robert, The center sprout is the only active growing point for a palm, so damage to this sprout could be serious. We have a publication which you can view on line at the following site: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Ornamentals It is called Arizona Landscape Palms, publication AZ1021. The brochure provides not only information on specific palms but also care of established palms and diseases and insect pests. This particular section includes symptoms and cultural treatment. I hope this information will assist you in a diagnosis of your palm's particular problem. (information from Sue Bass, Master Gardener) Doctoring sick Queen Palms is not a do it your self project. I would recommend that you contact a Certified Arborist to get an opinion on whether or not the tree can be saved and the cost of treatment. Palms do not handle well fertilizer that is high in phosphorus and most Miracle Grows that I ve seen in the stores are 15-30-15. Palms require a special palm fertilizer. (information from Rod McKusick, Master Gardener and Arborist) Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: beatrice@extremezone.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 17:38:59 -0700 (MST) > >Queen Palms: > Some of my palms droop more than others, and the new >center sprout frequently bends or breaks in the wind. >These trees are only slightly less green than their healthy >neighbors, look otherwise healthy, not too subburned, and soil >is getting moisture. >Any suggestions? >Thanks for your help >Sincerely, >Robert > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Nov 9 13:00:40 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 09 Nov 2002 13:00:40 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] saguaro cactus transplant Message-ID: Saguaro cactus transplant: You may wish to contact the Desert Botanical Gardens or the Arizona Sonora Desert Museum and talk to their horticulturalists who specialize in cacti. Following is some information. from the Arizona Sonora Desert Museum -- Mark the south side of the plant so it will be replanted in the original orientation. (do you know if this was done?) Replant the saguaro at the same depth as it was originally growing. Fill in with sandy soil and tamp in well. Water after a couple of weeks or so and continue to water every few weeks. An armless saguaro, well planted, should not require staking. Large rocks at the base can help stabilize the plant if it becomes unsteady. Watch for sunburning and cover the saguaro with shade cloth if needed. ---------- The younger the cactus, the greater the odds of survival. Horticulturalists at the ASDM warn that if you acquire a saguaro over 4 feet, you're running about 50/50 odds that you've basically purchased a dying cactus (nurseries may guarantee them for a year--but they can take up to 10 years to die). ---------- Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Trxienme@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 10:42:43 -0700 (MST) > >We had several mature saguaro cacti translanted onto our property this >August. The nurseryman stated not to do additional watering. We notice >that they are turning yellowish with soft spongy skin. Please advise. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From caminos@spinxs.com Sat Nov 9 15:58:45 2002 From: caminos@spinxs.com (Mark Rhoades) Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 07:58:45 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Catclaw Acacia (Acacia greggii) Germination Message-ID: <002001c28808$f914c8c0$4a86bbd0@computer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001D_01C287C5.D4314120 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I am germinating several Catclaw acacia seeds. I am curious about the = manner in which the seeds are germinating. They are sending a root into = the soil as well as what appears to be another root upwards into the = air. The seed coatings are coming off and they are opening, however, = they continue to lie on their sides. The seeds were soaked overnight in = water and sown on their sides in containers about four days ago. I have never seen this occur before in all the years I have been growing = plants from seed. Can anyone tell me what might have caused this = phenomena and whether I will get viable plants from these germinating = seeds? Thank you. Mark Rhoades caminos@spinxs.com ------=_NextPart_000_001D_01C287C5.D4314120 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I am germinating several Catclaw acacia seeds. I = am=20 curious about the manner in which the seeds are germinating. They are = sending a=20 root into the soil as well as what appears to be another root upwards = into the=20 air. The seed coatings are coming off and they are opening, = however, they=20 continue to lie on their sides. The seeds were soaked overnight in = water=20 and sown on their sides in containers about four days ago.

I have never seen this occur before in all the = years I=20 have been growing plants from seed. Can anyone tell me what might have = caused=20 this phenomena and whether I will get viable plants from these = germinating=20 seeds?

Thank you.

Mark Rhoades

caminos@spinxs.com

------=_NextPart_000_001D_01C287C5.D4314120-- From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Sat Nov 9 21:07:10 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 14:07:10 -0700 Subject: Fw: [Arid_gardener] Watering Schedules Message-ID: <003b01c28833$f93e1420$2d2c0a3f@ibmbna6040> Norm, The following websites will answer your questions about watering your trees and plants: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html http://www.amwua.org/xscp-wateringschedules.htm Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: Kur, Norman (Z57968) To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Friday, November 08, 2002 4:14 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Watering Schedules >I have a question about watering schedules. Basically, over the past few months I had so many issues with my sprinkler/irrigation system that I finally replaced the whole thing. Now, my system consists of 6 zones and I wanted to ask you how often I should water each of them, i.e., how many days per week and for how many minutes. Also, could you please differentiate between summer and winter schedules? Thank you very much for any advice you can provide. > > >Zones 1, 2 and 3 are for my bermuda grass lawn. I have decided not to plant winter grass this year in order to be water conscious. > >Zone 4 is a drip line with 1 gallon per hour emitters that provide water to all plants, bushes and shrubs. There are rose bushes, hedges of some kind and a couple of other bushes/plants. > >Zone 5 is a drip line (also with 1 gal/hour emitters) providing water to all non-pine trees, e.g. palms, sumacs and one mesquite tree. > >Zone 6 is also a drop line (1 gal/hour emitters) providing water to all pine trees. > >I know this is a lot to ask of you, but again, any advise or help you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again. > >Norm Kur > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From terrific968@yahoo.com Sun Nov 10 00:29:55 2002 From: terrific968@yahoo.com (Terri Smith) Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 16:29:55 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] bouganvilla care Message-ID: <20021110002955.74366.qmail@web20303.mail.yahoo.com> --0-395105344-1036888195=:74259 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I just purchased a potted plant from the local hardware store, and it isn't doing very well. I have been watering it regularly, and have been giving it food, and there is new growth on the ends of the branches. I live in Palmdale, CA, which is in the desert. I understand that they like dry climates, but winter is coming on, and it is getting very cold overnight. Because of this, I keep it inside, but the leaves have paled, and they are falling off like hair! Help! Soon, or we might be discussing a dead plant! Thanks Terri --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive medley & videos from Greatest Hits CD --0-395105344-1036888195=:74259 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

I just purchased a potted plant from the local hardware store, and it isn't doing very well. I have been watering it regularly, and have been giving it food, and there is new growth on the ends of the branches. I live in Palmdale, CA, which is in the desert. I understand that they like dry climates, but winter is coming on, and it is getting very cold overnight. Because of this, I keep it inside, but the leaves have paled, and they are falling off like hair! Help! Soon, or we might be discussing a dead plant!

Thanks

Terri

Do you Yahoo!?
U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive medley & videos from Greatest Hits CD --0-395105344-1036888195=:74259-- From ASUsped@aol.com Sun Nov 10 07:23:32 2002 From: ASUsped@aol.com (ASUsped@aol.com) Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 02:23:32 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] a clothes hanger to measure the depth of water Message-ID: <53.1f172909.2aff6374@aol.com> I've read in this list that after watering a plant we should measure the depth of water in the soil by inserting a screw driver or a rod, and the rod should go as deep as 3 feet with no resistance for trees and one foot for small plants. Can I use a metal clothes hanger to measure the depth of the water, instead of a rod or a screwdriver? I only saw tools in the nurseries that go as deep as 12" only.........Mike From OBONANZA@aol.com Sun Nov 10 13:42:58 2002 From: OBONANZA@aol.com (OBONANZA@aol.com) Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 08:42:58 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: --part1_bd.2a2149dc.2affbc62_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have a 25 ' sahuaro that so far has lost 2 huge arms, during a monsoon 2 yrs. ago & again this summer. The cavities on both are wide open. Should i clean them with bleach or sulphur to slow or prevent rot or infection? Some people in my area, (Green Valley) have them covered with wire mesh to keep birds out, others have them puttied up. Any suggestions / Jim O'Day --part1_bd.2a2149dc.2affbc62_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have a 25 ' sahuaro that so far has lost 2 huge arms, during a monsoon 2 yrs. ago & again this summer. The cavities on both are wide open. Should i clean them with bleach or sulphur to slow or prevent rot or infection? Some people in my area, (Green Valley) have them covered with wire mesh to keep birds out, others have them puttied up. Any suggestions /
Jim O'Day --part1_bd.2a2149dc.2affbc62_boundary-- From heartfelt@heartfeltreminders.com Sun Nov 10 16:03:47 2002 From: heartfelt@heartfeltreminders.com (heartfelt@heartfeltreminders.com) Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 09:03:47 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211101603.gAAG3lN22782@Ag.arizona.edu> I have discovered a large fungus (I believe) growing in main trunk joint of my fig tree. It is a yellow/brown wet-looking mound growing out of the spot where two main trunks branch out. The tree has been stressed, but I've had it treated every year and keep it well pruned and watered. Need to know how to safely eliminate the fungus and save the tree. I just love it. From arnies@jps.net Mon Nov 11 21:26:40 2002 From: arnies@jps.net (arnies@jps.net) Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 14:26:40 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211112126.gABLQeN13092@Ag.arizona.edu> We have a accia tree that is foaming and driping and we don't know what to do. Please advise is this normal or not. The tree is about 7 years old and it looks like it is foaming and driping out of cracks in the branches. From adhong@yahoo.com Tue Nov 12 04:19:17 2002 From: adhong@yahoo.com (adhong@yahoo.com) Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 21:19:17 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211120419.gAC4JHN04394@Ag.arizona.edu> I have cypress trees which are turning brown and droopy from the bottom up. The are not standing straight up anymore and are slouching. What is wrong and what can I do about it? From Cearbear7@aol.com Tue Nov 12 04:24:43 2002 From: Cearbear7@aol.com (Cearbear7@aol.com) Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 23:24:43 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] pecan tree Message-ID: --part1_b8.3117312c.2b01dc8b_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit My pecan tree planted 1 year ago now has brown leaves with a little new growth. It gets water every other day. I fertilized it once per month over the summer. What could be wrong with it? the leaves are half green with the tips brown. cearbear@juno.com --part1_b8.3117312c.2b01dc8b_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit My pecan tree planted 1 year ago now has brown leaves with a little new growth. It gets water every other day. I fertilized it once per month over the summer. What could be wrong with it? the leaves are half green with the tips brown.
cearbear@juno.com --part1_b8.3117312c.2b01dc8b_boundary-- From steph308@msn.com Tue Nov 12 04:25:30 2002 From: steph308@msn.com (steph308@msn.com) Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 21:25:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211120425.gAC4PUN04879@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a grape fruit tree that is only about 20 months since I planted it. It bore fruit last year and this year.(quite a lot for a young tree.It is healthy and the trunk has about doubled this year. But it is short and stocky. I can't seem to get it to get any height. What can I do to get it to grow tall and not short and stocky? From bradleyl@Ag.arizona.edu Sat Nov 9 06:08:13 2002 From: bradleyl@Ag.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Fri, 08 Nov 2002 23:08:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] GREENHOUSE CROP PRODUCTION SHORT COURSE 1/19-22 Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20021108230736.0412f210@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_299290==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed >7 GREENHOUSE CROP PRODUCTION SHORT COURSE > >The University of Arizona's Controlled Environment Agriculture Center >(CEAC) will present a short course on greenhouse crop production and >engineering design January 19-22, 2003 in Tucson, AZ. The continuing >education professional short course will include series on plant sciences, >engineering, and marketing presentations. Major production topics will >include nutrition, irrigation, pest management, marketing, and >environmental control. Crop-specific examples of hydroponic tomato or >floral plant production will also be presented. The program will highlight >state-of-the-art instructional computer technology supplemented with >handouts and laboratory demonstrations. >The program is limited to 100 attendees, so register early to ensure your >place. Registration costs $195 per participant and ends January 6. >For more information, visit CEAC's site at http://ag.arizona. edu/ceac/ or >contact Gene Giacomelli, 520-621-1412; fax 520-621-3691; e-mail giacomel@ >ag.arizona.edu. > Submitted by: gene giacomelli Email: giacomel@ag.arizona.edu > controlled environment agriculture center Phone: 621-1412 > For more information: http://ag.arizona.edu/ceac/extension/cpesJan03.htm ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens --=====================_299290==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

7 GREENHOUSE CROP PRODUCTION SHORT COURSE

The University of Arizona�s Controlled Environment Agriculture Center (CEAC) will present a short course on greenhouse crop production and engineering design January 19-22, 2003 in Tucson, AZ. The continuing education professional short course will include series on plant sciences, engineering, and marketing presentations. Major production topics will include nutrition, irrigation, pest management, marketing, and environmental control. Crop-specific examples of hydroponic tomato or floral plant production will also be presented. The program will highlight state-of-the-art instructional computer technology supplemented with handouts and laboratory demonstrations.
The program is limited to 100 attendees, so register early to ensure your place. Registration costs $195 per participant and ends January 6.
For more information, visit CEAC�s site at http://ag.arizona. edu/ceac/ or contact Gene Giacomelli, 520-621-1412; fax 520-621-3691; e-mail giacomel@ ag.arizona.edu.
    Submitted by: gene giacomelli    Email: giacomel@ag.arizona.edu
    controlled environment agriculture center    Phone: 621-1412
    For more information: http://ag.arizona.edu/ceac/extension/cpesJan03.htm

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807

Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax: (602) 470-8092
email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/
http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens

--=====================_299290==_.ALT-- From gizmoaz@cox.net Tue Nov 12 16:01:59 2002 From: gizmoaz@cox.net (gizmoaz@cox.net) Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 11:01:59 -0500 Subject: [Arid_gardener] a clothes hanger to measure the depth of water Message-ID: <20021112160159.SNPZ2201.fed1mtao03.cox.net@smtp.west.cox.net> Hi Mike, Go to Home Depot or some hardware store like that, and buy you a 4-5 foot piece of rebar. You can use that as a probe for seeing how far it inserts into the ground, and it will be a lot cheaper. You can by Rebar in various sizes there. -- Chat with you later... ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 *** Check out all the new Garden Pics from around the world - "My Friends Gardens" *** http://www.GardenersCorner.com Show me a milk man in high heels and I'll show you a Dairy Queen. > > From: ASUsped@aol.com > Date: 2002/11/10 Sun AM 02:23:32 EST > To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu > Subject: [Arid_gardener] a clothes hanger to measure the depth of water > > > I've read in this list that after watering a plant we should measure > the depth of water in the soil by inserting a screw driver or a rod, and the > rod should go as deep as 3 feet with no resistance for trees and one foot for > small plants. > > Can I use a metal clothes hanger to measure the depth of the water, > instead of a rod or a screwdriver? I only saw tools in the nurseries that go > as deep as 12" only.........Mike > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com Tue Nov 12 16:40:53 2002 From: Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com (Zelhart Alan-rpcs30) Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 09:40:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] a clothes hanger to measure the depth of wate r Message-ID: <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B9930704051432@az33exm25.corp.mot.com> Sorry to the moderators, but one thing I should add to this, bend the top portion of the rebar so that when pushing it down you do not poke a hole in your hand =) -- Chat with you later... ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 *** Check out all the new Garden Pics from around the world - "My Friends Gardens" *** http://www.GardenersCorner.com Hell was full, so I came back ! -----Original Message----- From: gizmoaz@cox.net [mailto:gizmoaz@cox.net] Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2002 9:02 AM To: ASUsped@aol.com; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] a clothes hanger to measure the depth of water Hi Mike, Go to Home Depot or some hardware store like that, and buy you a 4-5 foot piece of rebar. You can use that as a probe for seeing how far it inserts into the ground, and it will be a lot cheaper. You can by Rebar in various sizes there. From joeh@peoriaaz.com Tue Nov 12 19:36:38 2002 From: joeh@peoriaaz.com (joeh@peoriaaz.com) Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 12:36:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211121936.gACJacN25597@Ag.arizona.edu> Is it neccessary to keep moving the drip watering system outlet point to the trees canopy edge as it grows throughout the years? Canopy has grown beyond the 36" diameter hole I initially dug when planted. Now its into the native clayee soil which is quite compacted. Would it do any good if I augered down 24 inches, inserted a 1 inch multi-holed pvc pipe and attached the drip head to the pipe top at canopy edge? From lynne.guerrette@intel.com Tue Nov 12 22:59:14 2002 From: lynne.guerrette@intel.com (lynne.guerrette@intel.com) Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 15:59:14 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211122259.gACMxEN12479@Ag.arizona.edu> I planted 4 blue-tip junipers (from 1-gallon pots) last January, watered them according to the nursery's instructions, and saw them grow close to a foot by July. But then they began getting brown from the bottom up, and 3 out of four are now completely dried up despite continued watering. Did they just bake in the summer sun? I plan to replace the dead trees, but if the junipers were victims of our summer sun, what is an evergreen that can tolerate full exposure? I like the non-messiness of evergreens, but would consider other varieties that don't shed. From ronsueboe@sprintmail.com Wed Nov 13 01:01:14 2002 From: ronsueboe@sprintmail.com (ronsueboe@sprintmail.com) Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 18:01:14 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211130101.gAD11BN04937@Ag.arizona.edu> My 7 year old grapefruit tree has suddenly started to drop large numbers of leaves. They are not turning yellow but are simply wilting, curling and then drying up and falling off. The entire branch will loose all of it's leaves practically at the same time. This started less than a week ago and has affected mainly the lower branches but I have noticed a few upper branches starting to wilt as well. Does anyone have any suggestions? Does this sound like mesophyll collapse? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Nov 13 13:03:40 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 13:03:40 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Saguaro cavity Message-ID: Jim, Please call Pima County Office at 626-5161 for more information. If the cavities are calloused over, you probably do not need to treat them. Please do not put putty, cement or other materials in the holes as this can lead to more damage. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: OBONANZA@aol.com >To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) >Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 08:42:58 EST > >I have a 25 ' sahuaro that so far has lost 2 huge arms, during a monsoon 2 >yrs. ago & again this summer. The cavities on both are wide open. Should i >clean them with bleach or sulphur to slow or prevent rot or infection? Some >people in my area, (Green Valley) have them covered with wire mesh to keep >birds out, others have them puttied up. Any suggestions / >Jim O'Day _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Nov 13 13:07:48 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 13:07:48 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] pecan tree, salt burn Message-ID: The leaves you describe sound like they are showing symptoms of salt burn. You didn't say how deeply you water, but I would suggest you slow-soak the tree until water has penetrated to 3 feet deep and out to the canopy (drip line) or beyond. That should flush out excess salts in the soil. Pecans require a lot of water; contact your local Cooperative Extension Office for a brochure on care of pecan trees. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Cearbear7@aol.com >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] pecan tree >Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 23:24:43 EST > >My pecan tree planted 1 year ago now has brown leaves with a little new >growth. It gets water every other day. I fertilized it once per month over >the summer. What could be wrong with it? the leaves are half green with the >tips brown. >cearbear@juno.com _________________________________________________________________ STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Nov 13 13:12:00 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 13:12:00 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit tree, yellow leaves Message-ID: Yellow leaves could be caused from over or under watering plus other things. Some yellowing and leaf drop is normal this time of year. If you will advise the age of the tree, how much water and how often, thay will give us a clue as to the cause. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on citrus irrigation at the following website: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Paige Lycett" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit tree >Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 20:42:13 -0800 > >Dear Arid Gardener, > We just arrived at our new digs in Palm Springs to find the grapefruit >and lemon tree looking a little 'off color'. Seems some of the leaves are >turning yellow and dropping. Is this normal for this time of year or do >you think we might have a problem? We know nothing about citrus so started >with the internet. > If you have time could you possibly give us some suggestions. >Thanks, >Janet _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Nov 13 13:25:02 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 13:25:02 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] acacia tree, foam on trunk and branches Message-ID: The symptoms you describe could be the result of a decay fungus (collar, foot, root and crown rots) caused by an organism such as phtophthora. It could also be the result of a bacteriaial infection (wetwood, foamy canker). Call your local Cooperative Extension Office for more information. (look in the county pages of the phone book). Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: arnies@jps.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 14:26:40 -0700 (MST) > >We have a accia tree that is foaming and driping and we don't know what to >do. Please advise is this normal or not. The tree is about 7 years old and >it looks like it is foaming and driping out of cracks in the branches. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Nov 13 13:30:10 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 13:30:10 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] fungus on fig tree Message-ID: The fungus you describe could be Ganoderma, a heart rot disease. Can you bring a section of the fungus into your local Cooperative Extension Office for identification? (check the counyty pages in your phone book for location). Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: heartfelt@heartfeltreminders.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 09:03:47 -0700 (MST) > >I have discovered a large fungus (I believe) > growing in main trunk joint of my fig tree. >It is a yellow/brown wet-looking mound growing >out of the spot where two main trunks branch >out. >The tree has been stressed, but I've had it >treated every year and keep it well pruned >and watered. Need to know how to safely eliminate >the fungus and save the tree. I just love it. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Nov 13 13:36:04 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 13:36:04 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] bouganvillea care Message-ID: Bougainvillea likes full sun, and it does not require a lot of water and practically no fertilizer. If the roots are disturbed when it is planted it may never recover and grow. Since you are growing yours indoors, be sure it has ample bright light. Cut back on the watering and stop fertilizing. It will freeze back in cold weather but usually regrows as soon as warm weather returns. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Terri Smith >To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] bouganvilla care >Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 16:29:55 -0800 (PST) > > >I just purchased a potted plant from the local hardware store, and it isn't >doing very well. I have been watering it regularly, and have been giving >it food, and there is new growth on the ends of the branches. I live in >Palmdale, CA, which is in the desert. I understand that they like dry >climates, but winter is coming on, and it is getting very cold overnight. >Because of this, I keep it inside, but the leaves have paled, and they are >falling off like hair! Help! Soon, or we might be discussing a dead >plant! > >Thanks > > > > >Terri > > >--------------------------------- >Do you Yahoo!? >U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive medley & videos from Greatest Hits CD _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Nov 13 14:28:23 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 14:28:23 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] cypress/juniper turning brown Message-ID: Cypress should be allowed to dry out ( the soil ) between waterings; watering could be the problem with the cypress. Spider mites and or twig borers could also cause browning of the foliage. The mites can be controlled by a strong spray of water daily; in severe cases, spray with an insecticidal soap solution and repeat in 7-10 days. Check small branches for holes to determine if it might be a twig borer. If you fertilize, be sure to fertilize lightly in the spring. Master Gardener Manual website on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: adhong@yahoo.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 21:19:17 -0700 (MST) > >I have cypress trees which are turning brown and droopy from the bottom up. >The are not standing straight up anymore and are slouching. What is wrong >and what can I do about it? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus From rdtechs@goodrich.com Wed Nov 13 14:48:04 2002 From: rdtechs@goodrich.com (rdtechs@goodrich.com) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 07:48:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211131448.gADEm4N15857@Ag.arizona.edu> We were wondering about the tiny corn like you see is Chinese food. Does it grow like "normal" corn on big stalks? Are seeds available to grow it? What is it really called? Mark From imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net Wed Nov 13 17:14:17 2002 From: imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 10:14:17 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Baby Corn References: <200211131448.gADEm4N15857@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <004e01c28b38$50f30b10$2d52530c@delljor9501> You can grow it from some of the regular types of sweet corn or there are varieties developed so the baby corn can be harvested before the ears get too large after which it loses it baby corn status. Some seed companies with web sites carry it. Go to www.parkseed.com and type 5530 in the search window, then when the next page comes up click on the "Corn Bonus Hybrid" link for a good photo and description. A Washington State University Extension Pub. explains it pretty well at: http://cru.cahe.wsu.edu/CEPublications/pnw0532/pnw0532.pdf You can also find lots more info with a google search using keywords "baby corn". Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > We were wondering about the tiny corn like you see is Chinese food. Does it grow like "normal" corn on big stalks? Are seeds available to grow it? What is it really called? From carolpeluso@tch-az.com Wed Nov 13 17:32:33 2002 From: carolpeluso@tch-az.com (carolpeluso@tch-az.com) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 10:32:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211131732.gADHWXN24608@Ag.arizona.edu> How can I determine the Nitrogen, Phosphorus & Pottasium values in "compost tea"? From chcarmean@cox.net Wed Nov 13 18:32:08 2002 From: chcarmean@cox.net (chcarmean@cox.net) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 11:32:08 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211131832.gADIW8N09862@Ag.arizona.edu> Our HOA (in Scottsdale) is seeking a replacement for a large fountain in our common area. The site is circular, about 20 feet in diameter, and built up about two feet and contained by a retaining wall. I would like your suggestions for a tree or desert plant that could be planted as a focal point for the area. Clearly we are seeking a relatively large specimen that would be attractive throughout the year. The site is in the sun most of the day. Water is available We are willing to spend in the $2500 area. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Nov 13 20:23:07 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 20:23:07 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] compost tea Message-ID: according to "Secrets to Great Soil" by Elizabeth P. Stell: "compost tea supplies only low levels of major nutrients (N-P-K), it's good for a micronutrient boost." (commercial compost is about 1-1-1) Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: carolpeluso@tch-az.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 10:32:33 -0700 (MST) > >How can I determine the Nitrogen, Phosphorus & Pottasium values in "compost >tea"? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Nov 13 20:32:14 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 20:32:14 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] citrus losing leaves Message-ID: There are many possible causes, often watering practices or diesease. Following is an answer to an earlier question that will give you resources to help find the cause. Check watering, soil buildup against trunk, and any sign of sap or oozing. Citrus Trees are subject to several diseases including Root Rot, Foot Rot and Gummosis. The symptons include sap oozing from the trunk or branches and defoliation. Prevention is the best approach to controlling most citrus diseases. Proper watering is important to controlling diseases. Let soil dry out partially between watering and don't allow water to stand against the trunk. If necessary, remove soil away from the trunk and create a gentle slope so water can drain away. Clean up falllen leaves from under your trees. The County has several good docs to help you with your citrus. The * docs are avail online at the web site below. Others are avail for $1 at the address below. CITRUS *AZ1001 Low Desert Citrus Varieties *AZ1146 Budding Citrus Trees *AZ1151 Irrigating Citrus Trees *AZ1154 Diseases of Citrus in Arizona MC8 Recovery of Neglected Citrus Trees MC17 Irrigation Needs of Citrus MC65 Quality Citrus Trees MC91 Fertilizing Citrus Trees Q191 Phytophthora Foot Rot of Citrus 8670 Fertilizing Citrus Trees in Arizona http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Hope this helps GG >From: ronsueboe@sprintmail.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 18:01:14 -0700 (MST) > >My 7 year old grapefruit tree has suddenly started >to drop large numbers of leaves. They are not turning >yellow but are simply wilting, curling and then drying >up and falling off. The entire branch will loose all of >it's leaves practically at the same time. This started >less than a week ago and has affected mainly the lower >branches but I have noticed a few upper branches >starting to wilt as well. Does anyone have any suggestions? >Does this sound like mesophyll collapse? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From kainass@cox.net Wed Nov 13 20:36:30 2002 From: kainass@cox.net (kainass@cox.net) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 13:36:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211132036.gADKaUN08644@Ag.arizona.edu> I am in the process of re-landscaping my house. I am putting up a block wall along my alley and plan on putting a row of ornamental orange trees along it to create a taller buffer. My questions is, what is the difference between a 5 gallon ($20) ornamental orange tree and a 15 gallon ($90)one. How much shorter, how much younger? Is it worth it to spend the extra money for the 15 gallon. Any help would be appreciated. THANKS!!! From merisea@earthlink.net Thu Nov 14 03:12:03 2002 From: merisea@earthlink.net (merisea@earthlink.net) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 20:12:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211140312.gAE3C3N20859@Ag.arizona.edu> My 15yr old lemon bottlebrush plantings used as screening on southeast and southwest corners of property are showing die out and it appears that this is very serious threatening loss of these valued shrubs. Leaves and limbs totally dry out. any idea why this is happening? Can it be the increase in our temperatures or is their a disease problem below soil, no visible other signs on leaves. HELP. From isaiah58@cgmailbox.com Thu Nov 14 07:11:59 2002 From: isaiah58@cgmailbox.com (White O' Mornin') Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 00:11:59 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] grapes References: Message-ID: <000601c28bad$21f802a0$7b57fecf@robertde> Speaking of grapes; Mine are just under one year in the ground. I bought them bare rooted, recently built them a large arbor and they are only about two x two feet, at present. However, they are loosing their leaves already. I realize that they are deciduous but isn't it a bit early, and warm, for them to do that in Arizona? Or are mine ill? I haven't noticed any unusual pests or fungus' about them. Just dropping their leaves and looking bad. Maybe they need more watering? Please, help and advise? ~Rachel~ Better Dogs, Goats 'n Gardens (of White O'Mornin' Farm) Arizona Zone - 13 We may not know what the future holds but, we can trust the one who holds the future! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Linda Drew" To: ; Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2002 4:25 PM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] grapes > Here in Tucson we grow black beauty, flame and Thompson's seedless > very successfully. > > Thompson, Flame, BlackMonukka and Perlette were listed as good for table > grapes and raisin-making. Cardinal and Exotic were suggested > for table or jelly. Concord can do well. > > > Here is aresponse to an earlier question: > > We have a publication called Backyard Grapes which you can order from the > Cooperative Extension service. The publication is number MC 59 and you can > view information on ordering it at: > http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm > Some branches of the library have a binder containing our publications. If > you choose to check there, ask the librarian for binder 635 General > Reference. The title is Horticulture Publications. > > Maricopa County Cooperative Extension > 4341 E. Broadway Road > Phoenix, AZ 85040 > (602) 470-8086 ext. 301 > 8:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. > Monday through Friday > > --------------- > > Some additional information I found in the book Desert Gardening, by George > Brookbank is that when you plant your grape, you should dig a big hole at > least 2 feet square x 2 feet deep. Get through any caliche. Then backfill > with soil mixed > with compost or steer manure, ammonium phosphate and sulphur. He says 1-1/2 > cubic feet of compost or steer manure, 2 lbs of sulphur and 1/2 lb of > ammonium phosphate. This book has quite a bit of information of growing > grapes. You might want > to take a look at a copy. > > Sue Bass > Master Gardener > ----------- > Grapes grow very well here in souther Arizona. They are easy to start > from cuttings in January. I'm layering them into 5 gallon pots now ~ > cuttings are difficult except in the winter. George Brookbanks "Desert > Gardening" lists varieties that do well in Tuscon. > My experience is only with Thompson, Flame and Ruby Seedless here > near Phoenix. You want to grow them enough away from any structure so > that you can walk around them without touching them. The grape leaf > skeletonizer can be a big problem; it's fuzz is very irritating to my > skin; however, the birds have cleaned them up without my having to do a > thing to control them at all. My plants are inside a cage which can be > bird proof during grape production. > Grapes provide wonderful shade and an evaporative cooler effect > for strawberries, however, grapes need to have water withheld in the fall > to help them become dormant just exactly when strawberries are making > runners and gathering strength for next spring's crop. A better > companion plant for grapes is asparagus. Grapes make too much shade to > be anywhere except north or west of vegetables. Since they are fairly > permanent, you need to plan for future garden efforts before planting > them. > I prefer Flame and Ruby because Thompson needs to have 10 buds > left after pruning in order to make grapes.....this is called "cane > pruning" rather than spur pruning which can be done with Flame and Ruby. > The spur pruning is easier for me. Good luck. > > Dawn Kazmer > ------------ > > > Linda Drew > Master Gardener > > > > > > > > >From: meljoyceevans@aol.com > >To: > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 15:22:04 -0700 (MST) > > > >I am considering planting a grape vine and would appreciate guidance on the > >best for eating, when and where to plant and plant care. I live in the > >Chandler area. Thank you very much. From copper@bargainsail.com Thu Nov 14 17:02:53 2002 From: copper@bargainsail.com (Copper Bittner) Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 10:02:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cabin available on the January adventure cruise for gardeners Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0102_01C28BC4.FF5C5FD0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit This price goes up after this cabin is filled. A gentleman called to tell me he wasn't going to be able to go and I need to fill his cabin. Are you single? Cruise West has a Single Share Program that