From gaye.luna@nau.edu Fri Nov 1 04:34:22 2002 From: gaye.luna@nau.edu (Gaye Luna) Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 21:34:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] fruit tree question Message-ID: <5.0.2.1.2.20021031212350.00a09530@jan.ucc.nau.edu> A landscaping company planted for us grapefruit and oranges trees in mid-May. They survived the heat stress through the summer it seemed just fine. About three weeks ago, we fertilized these two trees with 13-10-4 as recommended by the landscaper, in the tubes around the trees. The trees have green fruit on them. We are watering the trees every 4th day for 2.5 hours (again based on the guidelines set for new trees by the landscaper). However, the leaves, especially at the tops of the trees, are curled/shriveled and not very healthy looking. A few leaves have yellow spots and are dried up. Is this anything wrong? Thank you. These are our first fruit trees in a desert climate. From robert.mongrain@amec.com Fri Nov 1 06:26:37 2002 From: robert.mongrain@amec.com (robert.mongrain@amec.com) Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 23:26:37 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211010626.gA16QaN18478@Ag.arizona.edu> Can I trim my Euryops Daisy now? The plants are large and overgrown, with long brown stems, with clusters of leaves and blooms well away from the plant origin. The plants have (due to neglect)have overtaken the area where they are planted. From KLH718@aol.com Fri Nov 1 16:34:41 2002 From: KLH718@aol.com (KLH718@aol.com) Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2002 11:34:41 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] watering Message-ID: --part1_cf.1f7862db.2af40721_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit background: Last year, when we didn't cover the entire cost of our utilities, we put in a big, beautiful flower bed. This year, ha ha!, we are much more cost-of-utilities conscious, as well as drought-conscious, and I'm not so sure this flower bed was a great idea. There is, however, lots of spring-flowering seed & bulbs in the bed and yes, we'd love to see them again next spring; toadflax & poppies & ranunculus. There is nothing growing in the bed now. question: Do we need to be watering them now, and through the winter, to make them flower in the spring? Or can we hold off until February (Jan.?). Thanks, Karen --part1_cf.1f7862db.2af40721_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit background: Last year, when we didn't cover the entire cost of our utilities, we put in a big, beautiful flower bed. This year, ha ha!, we are much more cost-of-utilities conscious, as well as drought-conscious, and I'm not so sure this flower bed was a great idea. There is, however, lots of spring-flowering seed & bulbs in the bed and yes, we'd love to see them again next spring; toadflax & poppies & ranunculus. There is nothing growing in the bed now.

question: Do we need to be watering them now, and through the winter, to make them flower in the spring? Or can we hold off until February (Jan.?).

Thanks,
Karen --part1_cf.1f7862db.2af40721_boundary-- From copper@bargainsail.com Fri Nov 1 16:40:26 2002 From: copper@bargainsail.com (Copper Bittner) Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2002 09:40:26 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Only 4 cabins left Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_029C_01C2818A.B558F090 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If there is anyone interested in experiencing the flora and fauna of the Baja California Sur on the Spirit of Endeavour embarking January 18th, please contact me very soon. We'll see the interesting native flora on deserted desert islands as well as snorkel and kayak in the blue waters of the Sea of Cortes. Everything is included except airfare. This is going to be a fun and educational trip for Master Gardeners and guests Email me for further information. Copper Bittner Master Gardener 480-802-9709 ------=_NextPart_000_029C_01C2818A.B558F090 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

If = there is anyone=20 interested in experiencing the flora and fauna of the Baja California = Sur on the=20 Spirit of Endeavour embarking January 18th, please contact me very = soon. =20

We'll = see the=20 interesting native flora on deserted desert islands as well as snorkel = and kayak=20 in the blue waters of the Sea of Cortes. Everything is included = except=20 airfare. This is going to be a fun and educational trip for Master = Gardeners and guests

Email = me for further=20 information.

Copper = Bittner

Master = Gardener

480-802-9709

------=_NextPart_000_029C_01C2818A.B558F090-- From KGSWolf@aol.com Fri Nov 1 19:56:09 2002 From: KGSWolf@aol.com (KGSWolf@aol.com) Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2002 14:56:09 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] When to Plant Message-ID: <34.2f8d4317.2af43659@aol.com> Hello: My husband and I have just started gardening this year and we had a question as to when is the best time to plant the following: -Strawberries -Russet Potatoes -Red Onions -Mushrooms -Sugar Snap Peas Also, do the above do well in the Arizona climate? Thank you for your assistance. Kathy Wolf From bradleyl@Ag.arizona.edu Fri Nov 1 21:57:43 2002 From: bradleyl@Ag.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Fri, 01 Nov 2002 14:57:43 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] On-Line Pictures of SW Plants Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20021101144850.01fbfa50@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_1597917==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed ---------- Forwarded message ---------- Date: Fri, 01 Nov 2002 11:14:21 -0700 From: Sam Drake To: arsc@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [arsc] URLs for plant pictures & info Dear ARSC folks, Here are some URLs for those of you wishing to study (mostly) native Southwest plants from your office, when you can't get into the field. http://eebweb.arizona.edu/HERB/plantphotos.html http://aznps.org/html/np_information_az.html http://lsvl.la.asu.edu/herbarium/index.html http://plants.usda.gov/ http://www.hortpix.com/ http://www.plantadviser.com/index.htm http://ag.arizona.edu/cochise/psc/index.htm http://www.desert-tropicals.com/ http://www.botany.com/index.html http://www.desertusa.com/flora.html http://www.gps.caltech.edu/~arid/plants/plants.html http://www.plantsofthesouthwest.com/ http://sanangelo.tamu.edu/agronomy/weeds/ http://tncweeds.ucdavis.edu/photos.html http://www.uapress.arizona.edu/online.bks/weeds/titlweed.htm ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Sam Drake, Ph.D. Assistant Research Scientist Arizona Remote Sensing Center Office of Arid Lands Studies University of Arizona 1955 E. 6th Street Tucson, AZ 85719 (520) 621-4501 (520) 621-3816 fax sdrake@nexus.srnr.arizona.edu ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens --=====================_1597917==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Fri, 01 Nov 2002 11:14:21 -0700
From: Sam Drake <sdrake@nexus.srnr.Arizona.EDU>
To: arsc@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: [arsc] URLs for plant pictures & info

Dear ARSC folks,

Here are some URLs for those of you wishing to study (mostly) native
Southwest plants from your office, when you can't get into the field.

http://eebweb.arizona.edu/HERB/plantphotos.html
http://aznps.org/html/np_information_az.html
http://lsvl.la.asu.edu/herbarium/index.html
http://plants.usda.gov/
http://www.hortpix.com/
http://www.plantadviser.com/index.htm
http://ag.arizona.edu/cochise/psc/index.htm
http://www.desert-tropicals.com/
http://www.botany.com/index.html
http://www.desertusa.com/flora.html
http://www.gps.caltech.edu/~arid/plants/plants.html
http://www.plantsofthesouthwest.com/
http://sanangelo.tamu.edu/agronomy/weeds/
http://tncweeds.ucdavis.edu/photos.html
http://www.uapress.arizona.edu/online.bks/weeds/titlweed.htm

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Sam Drake, Ph.D.
Assistant Research Scientist
Arizona Remote Sensing Center
Office of Arid Lands Studies
University of Arizona
1955 E. 6th Street
Tucson, AZ 85719
(520) 621-4501
(520) 621-3816 fax
sdrake@nexus.srnr.arizona.edu
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I have some tomatoes that are just now turning = from the=20 green to the whitish stage. I hope to ripen them before frost = around Nov=20 27. Is there anything I can do to hasten ripening? Should I = pinch=20 off all flowers and tiny fruit at this point? Should I trim back = branches=20 to put energy into ripening? Should I cover with remay? = Clear=20 plastic? Etc.

------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C28288.783B23A0-- From kleinaz@msn.com Sun Nov 3 00:29:33 2002 From: kleinaz@msn.com (kleinaz@msn.com) Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 17:29:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211030029.gA30TXN22760@Ag.arizona.edu> HELP. I have two citrus trees, one orange & one grapefruit. I have alot of dead branches in the orange tree. When is the month to cut them out? On the grapefruit tree, I have yellow leaves. Too much water or not enough? I have no clue. Thanks. From amcs88@hotmail.com Sun Nov 3 01:38:50 2002 From: amcs88@hotmail.com (amcs88@hotmail.com) Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 18:38:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211030138.gA31coN28407@Ag.arizona.edu> Following storm damage, we recently had to remove 10 very large, old salt cedar (tamarisk) trees from our property in Chandler AZ. These trees ran along our neighborhood irrigation delivery ditch and received plenty of water regularly. We are ready to replace the trees and need suggestions for a type/types of trees that will meet most or all of the following criteria: 1. Able to withstand the regular water, 2. Low or no litter to clog irrigation ditch, 3. Adequate provision, over time, of shade for our horses, 4. No poisonous components (i.e. to harm livestock/pets), 5. Prefer local varieties, but criteria 1-4 most important. One other related question -- If you recommend a variety, what size will it grow to, and how quickly does it grow? Thanks so much! From ASUsped@aol.com Sun Nov 3 04:04:49 2002 From: ASUsped@aol.com (ASUsped@aol.com) Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 23:04:49 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Shasta Daisies Message-ID: <147.1d205fd.2af5fa61@aol.com> I have received this email from a friend of mine in Gilbert, AZ and I was wondering if anyone would help with some inforamtion....Mike <<.....Anyone knows if Shasta Daisies (from seed) would be compatible with sweet peas, as far as, trying to produce a coordinated bloom? I am lucky enough to be living on 3/4 of an acre which receives irrigation. My sweet peas are doing quite well and I wanted to plant something in front of them bordering a sidewalk....was thinking Linaria or Shasta Daisies would be rather show stopping. Any ideas?>> From rmwoods62@juno.com Sun Nov 3 05:31:57 2002 From: rmwoods62@juno.com (rmwoods62@juno.com) Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 22:31:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211030531.gA35VvN17273@Ag.arizona.edu> Need infomation on grafting citrus. Not bud grafting. My tangerine tree died, it was only three years old. I left it alone ater it died and later it started new branchs from the base of the old tree. These limbs are wild or sour orange they have many thhrones on the limbs. I want to graft a healthy tangerine limb from my neighbors tree to this base. Thank you. Robt Woods From WayOffTheRoad@aol.com Sun Nov 3 18:03:45 2002 From: WayOffTheRoad@aol.com (WayOffTheRoad@aol.com) Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 13:03:45 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Habiscus Tree Question Message-ID: <1c4.10a4fa2.2af6bf01@aol.com> We have 2 habiscus trees which are planted in the ground. They have been doing beautifully throughout the spring and summer and have grown tremendously. We live in the eastern part of NC where the temperatures are beginning to get cold (~35 degrees at night). We are thinking about digging them up and putting them in large pots and bringing them inside for the cold months. Is that the right thing to do? One is a braided trunk and the other is a straight trunk. Any information you could give us would be greatly appreciated as we want to do this within the next day or so. Thanks much! The Kellys From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Sat Nov 2 20:46:28 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 13:46:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] bushes dying Message-ID: <001e01c282b0$ec344a20$4a31db43@ibmbna6040> Esther, Southern Arizona and particularly the Phoenix area has been under drought conditions for five years, this year has been one of the hottest and dryest on record. Pittosporum and pyracantha are both moderate water use plants and should have more water then is supplied by turf watering. Turf irrigation is typically only 6 to 8 inches deep, shrubs should be watered to a two foot depth. It has been a tough year on roses and especially if they do not get special care. Improper irrigation causes plants to be stressed and stressed plants are quite susceptable to attack by disease and insects. Check out this site for more info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: e1s2adler@juno.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Friday, November 01, 2002 3:58 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] bushes dying >Hi! > >Bushes which have been healthy for the more than twenty years we have lived here in Glendale are dying. About a year ago the pyracantha espaliered on our garage began to die--withering gradually spreading from one side to the other until it was all dead. Our neighbor complained that roses in her yard were also dying. > >Last month we noticed that a large Pittosporum bush on the opposite side of the garage was beginning to die, and it is now completely dead. The Pittosporum variegata right next to it still looks healthy and we would hate to lose it too. Is there anything we can do? We have never specially watered these plants and they seemed to do well without watering (except some from watering the lawn). We did water the dying Pittosporum but it didn't help. > >Another peculiarity is that the 3 jujube trees which usually bear loads of fruit did not set any this year although they did bloom. > >Any help you can offer will be greatly appreciated. > Sincerely, Esther Adler > > > > >________________________________________________________________ >Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today >Only $9.95 per month! >Visit www.juno.com >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From g.ross@mindspring.com Mon Nov 4 16:50:03 2002 From: g.ross@mindspring.com (g.ross@mindspring.com) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 09:50:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211041650.gA4Go3N27089@Ag.arizona.edu> We have two Ficus Nitinda(sp?) trees that need the help of an arborist or someone who is capable with with this variety. The trees are healthy but they have unfortunently been trimmed as large hedges for about 5 years. They need to be opened up and trimmed to look like a tree but I want someone who has experience with the proper approach to this tree variety rather than the guy traveling down the street with a pickup truck and a chain saw. These trees are the focal point in our back yard so the outcome is important to us. Any recommendations? Sincerly Gary Ross From imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net Mon Nov 4 17:45:15 2002 From: imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 10:45:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Another question References: <149.1cbdfe3.2af56c48@aol.com> Message-ID: <005a01c28429$fa47cbd0$7f51530c@delljor9501> ----- Original Message -----From: >...Are there any other fruits or vegetables we can plant at this time - or will > the colder weather just kill everything off. We live in the Valley area near > Scottsdale There is an extensive list of cool season vegetables that can be planted at this time at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1005.pdf The vegetables listed for October-November planting will survive our usual light frosts but could be damaged on those rare occasions when the late-night to early-morning temps fall down into the 20s. Seed germination is more slow and less reliable from mid November through January but transplants can be set out at any time. You can usually find healthy transplants at garden centers like Baker Nursery, Summer Winds or Harper's. Some of the frost-tender warm season vegetables can also be grown but need to be protected from an occasional light frost, e.g., using plastic tunnels, frost blankets, Wall O' Water, etc. Why not also try growing a few culinary herbs along with the vegetables? Many herbs grown elsewhere as perennials are grown here as annuals and planted in October and November. Herb transplants are currently available at the garden centers listed above as well as the Home Depots and Lowes stores. To see herbs that are typically grown here, I would suggest a tour of the Coop Extension's gardens at 4341 E. Broadway Road in Phoenix where the AZ Herb Assn. maintains a representative herb garden. Grapes, berries and deciduous fruit trees listed in the publication at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1269/ are usually available as relatively inexpensive bare root plants in garden center from late December through February and can be planted at that time. Trees can also be transplanted at any time from containers at any time but results seem to be better when transplanted during the cool months so the roots can become established before new spring growth. Olin Miller . From Sleepwboss@aol.com Mon Nov 4 19:22:57 2002 From: Sleepwboss@aol.com (Sleepwboss@aol.com) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 14:22:57 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] speeding up ripening tomatoes? Message-ID: --part1_a2.2e92ad6e.2af82311_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable In a message dated 11/4/02 10:38:32 AM Central Standard Time,=20 jkandell@sysmatrix.net writes: > I have some tomatoes that are just now turning from the green to the whiti= sh=20 > stage. I hope to ripen them before frost around Nov 27. Is there anythin= g=20 > I can do to hasten ripening? =20 JK-- Rebecca's Garden Episode #3003 from 10/12/98 transcript at=20 www.rebeccasgarden.com has this tip on ripening green tomatoes:=A0=20 =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 Shake Up Your Tomato Roots - take a garden fork and pu= sh it into the=20 ground about 12 inches from the stem of the tomato plant. =A0 Rock the fork=20 back and forth. =A0 Do this all the way around, being careful not to uproot=20= the=20 plant. =A0 Now by disturbing the root system, you have stressed the plant.=20= =A0=20 This will actually shut off any more energy that goes to growing larger=20 tomatoes. =A0 When you shut off the growing process, it turns on the ripenin= g=20 process. =A0 This works great if you do it a few weeks before your first=20 expected frost. =A0 If frost is in the forecast before they ripened be sure=20= to=20 harvest the tomatoes. Since your frost date is coming up fast you may want to take action soon. =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 To Ripen Green tomatoes off the vine - Line a shallow con= tainer with=20 newspaper, then, carefully, place the blemish-free tomatoes on top. =A0 Its=20 important not to let the tomatoes touch each other and do not wrap the=20 tomatoes with newspaper. =A0 Keep an eye on them in case of rot. =A0 Remove=20= any=20 spoiled tomatoes so you don't lose the whole bunch. The next step is to stor= e=20 them in a cool, dark location. =A0 When they start turning colors bring then= up=20 on your kitchen counter and you will soon have fresh ripe tomatoes. Lee Ann Aronson Master Gardener --part1_a2.2e92ad6e.2af82311_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable In a message dated 11/4/02 10:38:32 AM Central S= tandard Time, jkandell@sysmatrix.net writes:

I have some tomatoes th= at are just now turning from the green to the whitish stage. I hope to= ripen them before frost around Nov 27. Is there anything I can do to=20= hasten ripening?

JK--
Rebecca's Garden Episode #3003 from 10/12/98 transcript at www.rebeccasgarde= n.com has this tip on ripening green tomatoes:=A0

=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 Shake Up Your Tomato Roots - take a garden fork= and push it into the ground about 12 inches from the stem of the tomato pla= nt. =A0 Rock the fork back and forth. =A0 Do this all the way around, being=20= careful not to uproot the plant. =A0 Now by disturbing the root system, you=20= have stressed the plant. =A0 This will actually shut off any more energy tha= t goes to growing larger tomatoes. =A0 When you shut off the growing process= , it turns on the ripening process. =A0 This works great if you do it a few=20= weeks before your first expected frost. =A0 If frost is in the forecast befo= re they ripened be sure to harvest the tomatoes.

Since your frost date is coming up fast you may want to take action soon.
=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 To Ripen Green tomatoes off the vine - Line a shal= low container with newspaper, then, carefully, place the blemish-free tomato= es on top. =A0 Its important not to let the tomatoes touch each other and do= not wrap the tomatoes with newspaper. =A0 Keep an eye on them in case of ro= t. =A0 Remove any spoiled tomatoes so you don't lose the whole bunch. The ne= xt step is to store them in a cool, dark location. =A0 When they start turni= ng colors bring then up on your kitchen counter and you will soon have fresh= ripe tomatoes.

Lee Ann Aronson
Master Gardener

--part1_a2.2e92ad6e.2af82311_boundary-- From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Mon Nov 4 23:05:17 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 16:05:17 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus trees, pruning Message-ID: <004901c28456$a5697140$4904e043@ibmbna6040> Removing dead branches from your citrus tree can be done any time. Check out this site for info on watering your citrus: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: kleinaz@msn.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, November 04, 2002 9:38 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >HELP. I have two citrus trees, one orange & one grapefruit. I have alot of dead branches in the orange tree. When is the month to cut them out? On the grapefruit tree, I have yellow leaves. Too much water or not enough? I have no clue. Thanks. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Mon Nov 4 23:22:57 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 16:22:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Corrective Pruning Message-ID: <005401c28459$1d203140$4904e043@ibmbna6040> Correcting your Ficus nitida that has been pruned as a hedge is a difficult if not impossible job. I suggest that you call in a Certified Arborist for an appraisal. He would certainly be the best qualified to do the job if it can be done. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: g.ross@mindspring.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, November 04, 2002 10:05 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >We have two Ficus Nitinda(sp?) trees that need the help of an arborist or someone who is capable with with this variety. The trees are healthy but they have unfortunently been trimmed as large hedges for about 5 years. They need to be opened up and trimmed to look like a tree but I want someone who has experience with the proper approach to this tree variety rather than the guy traveling down the street with a pickup truck and a chain saw. These trees are the focal point in our back yard so the outcome is important to us. Any recommendations? >Sincerly >Gary Ross > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From sbeckma1523@earthlink.net Mon Nov 4 23:16:23 2002 From: sbeckma1523@earthlink.net (sbeckma1523@earthlink.net) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 16:16:23 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211042316.gA4NGNN09028@Ag.arizona.edu> Seven year old Arizona Ash tree has about six holes bored about the size of a pencil eraser where the limbs meet the trunk. What is doing this and what can be done about it? Thanks for your information. From imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net Mon Nov 4 23:28:08 2002 From: imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 16:28:08 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] speeding up ripening tomatoes? References: Message-ID: <004501c28459$d96cd7e0$a453530c@delljor9501> Cool weather, short days and reduced sunlight will lengthen the time to ripen. I have kept tomato plants alive all winter and some of the fruit from November stayed green all winter and did not ripen until late February. I do not believe the plants expend much energy in the ripening process. And I doubt that removing blossoms will have much of an effect. With your cool Tucson weather, it isn't likely that the blossoms will set fruit so wouldn't hurt to remove them. I would pick some of the "whitish" fruits and place them in a paper grocery bag to ripen. Sunlight would be best - here the sun is still pretty intense at mid afternoon but it might be okay in Tucson. Some of people pick and fry green tomatoes. Olin From copper@bargainsail.com Tue Nov 5 01:43:28 2002 From: copper@bargainsail.com (Copper Bittner) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 18:43:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Corrective Pruning In-Reply-To: <200211041650.gA4Go3N27089@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: To make it easier for you to follow Rod's advice, below is a link to use. http://www.isa-arbor.com/arborists/arbsearch.html This is a site with additional links for almost any horticultural questions. It is part of the University of Arizona County Extension website. Lot's of good browsing is here. Copper Bittner Master Gardener/Maricopa County Chandler AZ -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of g.ross@mindspring.com Sent: Monday, November 04, 2002 9:50 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have two Ficus Nitinda(sp?) trees that need the help of an arborist or someone who is capable with with this variety. The trees are healthy but they have unfortunently been trimmed as large hedges for about 5 years. They need to be opened up and trimmed to look like a tree but I want someone who has experience with the proper approach to this tree variety rather than the guy traveling down the street with a pickup truck and a chain saw. These trees are the focal point in our back yard so the outcome is important to us. Any recommendations? Sincerly Gary Ross _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From 4landm@cox.net Tue Nov 5 02:38:48 2002 From: 4landm@cox.net (Lee and Myrna) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 19:38:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sweet Brooms Message-ID: <000e01c28474$78241aa0$79246244@ph.cox.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C28439.CB7A7E00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have 4 shrubs called Cytisus spachianus. I have had them planted for = about 6 months and they seem to be stalled and on the verge of not = growing. Looking quite stalky and dropping leaves. I have tried = several amendments to the soil, including First Step and not getting to = good of results. The plants common name is Sweet Brooms. Any = suggestions? Lee ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C28439.CB7A7E00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I have 4 shrubs called = Cytisus=20 spachianus. I have had them planted for about 6 months and they = seem to be=20 stalled and on the verge of not growing. Looking quite stalky and = dropping=20 leaves. I have tried several amendments to the soil, including = First Step=20 and not getting to good of results. The plants common name is = Sweet=20 Brooms. Any suggestions?

Lee

------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C28439.CB7A7E00-- From labs5@cox.net Tue Nov 5 16:13:20 2002 From: labs5@cox.net (labs5@cox.net) Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 09:13:20 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211051613.gA5GDKN20172@Ag.arizona.edu> Help - My compost pile has been invaded by small red ants and I think their starting a new world in there! Is there anyway to organically get rid of them? I tried diatomaceous earth which didn't seem to do anything. I never had this problem with other compost piles. From imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net Tue Nov 5 20:40:49 2002 From: imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 13:40:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Ants in Compost References: <200211051613.gA5GDKN20172@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000a01c2850b$a7c930f0$e852530c@delljor9501> Some people believe ants in compost are beneficial. They feed on all sorts of stuff and drag it into the pile and move it around. But the little red ants have a sharp bite and are usually not encouraged. They will usually only move in if the compost pile is relatively dry. The first step might be prevention by keeping the pile working, i.e., moist and hot but it appears to be too late for that. If you can locate the nest you can kill the ants with boiling water but that is only temporary and will not wipe out the colony.. Orange peels or lemon rinds blended with water works for some people. Boric acid works but you would not want in it your vegetable garden soil. Many of the commercial organic controls contain boric acid. Amdro is very effective but doesn't meet your organic requirement. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > Help - My compost pile has been invaded by small red ants and I think their starting a new world in there! Is there anyway to organically get rid of them? I tried diatomaceous earth which didn't seem to do anything. I never had this problem with other compost piles. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From kgpauley@cox.net Wed Nov 6 01:56:34 2002 From: kgpauley@cox.net (kgpauley@cox.net) Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 18:56:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211060156.gA61uYN28235@Ag.arizona.edu> I have sweet corn currently in the pollination stage. We received hail last week, but I don't think it damaged my crop to any great degree. My concern is the yellow to brown edge on the lower leaves of my stalks. Does this indicate a water issue, a nutrient issue, or perhaps a pest of some sort? From lirigloria@hotmail.com Wed Nov 6 04:55:41 2002 From: lirigloria@hotmail.com (gloria) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 00:55:41 -0400 Subject: [Arid_gardener] paalo verde seed Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C2852F.3B2F2DE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable please send information about germination palo verde seed does it germinate outside of dessert regions ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C2852F.3B2F2DE0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

please send information about = germination palo=20 verde seed

does it germinate outside of dessert=20 regions

------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C2852F.3B2F2DE0-- From meljoyceevans@aol.com Wed Nov 6 22:22:04 2002 From: meljoyceevans@aol.com (meljoyceevans@aol.com) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 15:22:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211062222.gA6MM4N10259@Ag.arizona.edu> I am considering planting a grape vine and would appreciate guidance on the best for eating, when and where to plant and plant care. I live in the Chandler area. Thank you very much. From colettecb@cox.net Wed Nov 6 23:58:33 2002 From: colettecb@cox.net (colettecb@cox.net) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 16:58:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211062358.gA6NwXN29675@Ag.arizona.edu> I recently moved to Arizona and am unsure of which plants and flowers I need cover during the winter to prevent frost damage. Is there a list available anywhere? (Some of the flowering shrubs I have are: hibiscus, bougainvilla, lantana, gardenia, ruellia.) Thank you very much! From w81269@msn.com Thu Nov 7 01:35:27 2002 From: w81269@msn.com (w81269@msn.com) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 18:35:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211070135.gA71ZRN13100@Ag.arizona.edu> What do I need to do to move a 5' saguaro roughly 150'? From W81269@msn.com Thu Nov 7 01:59:00 2002 From: W81269@msn.com (W. Hunter) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 18:59:00 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] saguaro Message-ID: ------=_NextPart_001_0001_01C285C6.91353F80 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" What do I need to know to relocate a 5' saguaro 150'? Thank you-William ------=_NextPart_001_0001_01C285C6.91353F80 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

What do I need= to know to relocate a 5' saguaro 150'?

Than= k you-William

------=_NextPart_001_0001_01C285C6.91353F80-- From Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com Thu Nov 7 15:31:39 2002 From: Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com (Zelhart Alan-rpcs30) Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 08:31:39 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] What plants need frost protection... Message-ID: <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B99307040511EF@az33exm25.corp.mot.com> Collette, What part of Arizona are you in? Assuming you are in Metro-Phoenix, the bougainvillea and the lantana might receive some frost damage, I don't cover them, they tend to grow like crazy anyway, so in the spring, I just cut off all the dead growth. I have never had either die completely from frost. It seems mostly just tender new growth can be frost bit. I suspect the Gardenia as well, although I have never grown that myself. My Hibiscus have never had any problem with winter kill from frost in Metro-Phoenix. I'm not aware of a list, but I bet someone here is, and can better address that question :) -- Chat with you later... ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 *** Check out all the new Garden Pics from around the world - "My Friends Gardens" *** http://www.GardenersCorner.com If you live to the age of a hundred you have it made because very few people die past the age of a hundred. - George Burns -----Original Message----- From: colettecb@cox.net [mailto:colettecb@cox.net] Sent: Wednesday, November 06, 2002 4:59 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I recently moved to Arizona and am unsure of which plants and flowers I need cover during the winter to prevent frost damage. Is there a list available anywhere? (Some of the flowering shrubs I have are: hibiscus, bougainvilla, lantana, gardenia, ruellia.) Thank you very much! _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Nov 7 22:36:33 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 22:36:33 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] saguaro transplant Message-ID: Cacti are usually transplanted in the warm summer months rather than in fall/winter. How Do I Move A Saguaro? (reprinted from the Arizona Sonora Desert Museum Botany Helpline) If you are moving a saguaro on your own property, no legal tag is required. However, if you want to move a saguaro from someone else's property to yours, a native plant tag issued by the Arizona Department of Agriculture is required, along with the landowner's written permission. A 6-foot tall saguaro can weigh several hundred pounds and requires a few people to move it safely. First, mark the south side of the plant so it will be replanted in the original orientation. Use lengths of old garden hose to wrap around the saguaro - these act as handles. Dig out the plant by digging a donut-shaped hole around it, starting at least 12-18 inches from the base. Use a saw to cut the larger roots. Anchoring roots go straight down, so undercut about 2 feet deep, then gently lay the plant down. If it is not planted immediately, cover to protect from sunburn. Use a saw and pruners to neatly cut all roots to minimize the exposed wounds. Replant the saguaro at the same depth as it was originally growing. Fill in with sandy soil and tamp in well. Water after a couple of weeks or so and continue to water every few weeks. An armless saguaro, well planted, should not require staking. Large rocks at the base can help stabilize the plant if it becomes unsteady. Watch for sunburning and cover the saguaro with shade cloth if needed. There's a large saguaro in my yard that fell down after the last storm. What should I do? You have three options (assuming the plant is 8-10 feet tall). It can be left in place and you can enjoy the natural decay cycle unfold over the next several weeks. The saguaro can be cut up into small, 1-2 foot-long sections and disposed of like other landscape waste. If it is unbroken and the roots are not torn away from the plant's base, it may be possible to upright and replant it. This procedure requires machinery and careful planning. Contact a landscape professional for help. -------- I believe the Desert Botanical Garden has excellent advice (and success) moving saguaro. Give them a call. Linda Drew Pima County Master Gardener >From: "W. Hunter" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] saguaro >Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 18:59:00 -0700 > >What do I need to know to relocate a 5' saguaro 150'? > >Thank you-William _________________________________________________________________ STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Nov 7 22:44:55 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 22:44:55 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] cold tolereance Message-ID: Check your library or bookstore for the "Pruning, Planting and Care" book by Eric A. Johnson. It has lots of great information, including a table of cold tolerances. hibiscus 15-25 degrees F. bougainvilla 28-30 lantana 28 gardenia 20-22 ruellia 28 Bougainvillea, lantana and ruellia are often allowed to freeze back to the ground; they will regrow in the spring. Hibiscus and gardenia probably need cold protection. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: colettecb@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 16:58:33 -0700 (MST) > >I recently moved to Arizona and am unsure of which plants and flowers I >need cover during the winter to prevent frost damage. Is there a list >available anywhere? (Some of the flowering shrubs I have are: hibiscus, >bougainvilla, lantana, gardenia, ruellia.) Thank you very much! > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Nov 7 23:25:30 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 23:25:30 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] grapes Message-ID: Here in Tucson we grow black beauty, flame and Thompson's seedless very successfully. Thompson, Flame, BlackMonukka and Perlette were listed as good for table grapes and raisin-making. Cardinal and Exotic were suggested for table or jelly. Concord can do well. Here is aresponse to an earlier question: We have a publication called Backyard Grapes which you can order from the Cooperative Extension service. The publication is number MC 59 and you can view information on ordering it at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Some branches of the library have a binder containing our publications. If you choose to check there, ask the librarian for binder 635 General Reference. The title is Horticulture Publications. Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 (602) 470-8086 ext. 301 8:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. Monday through Friday --------------- Some additional information I found in the book Desert Gardening, by George Brookbank is that when you plant your grape, you should dig a big hole at least 2 feet square x 2 feet deep. Get through any caliche. Then backfill with soil mixed with compost or steer manure, ammonium phosphate and sulphur. He says 1-1/2 cubic feet of compost or steer manure, 2 lbs of sulphur and 1/2 lb of ammonium phosphate. This book has quite a bit of information of growing grapes. You might want to take a look at a copy. Sue Bass Master Gardener ----------- Grapes grow very well here in souther Arizona. They are easy to start from cuttings in January. I'm layering them into 5 gallon pots now ~ cuttings are difficult except in the winter. George Brookbanks "Desert Gardening" lists varieties that do well in Tuscon. My experience is only with Thompson, Flame and Ruby Seedless here near Phoenix. You want to grow them enough away from any structure so that you can walk around them without touching them. The grape leaf skeletonizer can be a big problem; it's fuzz is very irritating to my skin; however, the birds have cleaned them up without my having to do a thing to control them at all. My plants are inside a cage which can be bird proof during grape production. Grapes provide wonderful shade and an evaporative cooler effect for strawberries, however, grapes need to have water withheld in the fall to help them become dormant just exactly when strawberries are making runners and gathering strength for next spring's crop. A better companion plant for grapes is asparagus. Grapes make too much shade to be anywhere except north or west of vegetables. Since they are fairly permanent, you need to plan for future garden efforts before planting them. I prefer Flame and Ruby because Thompson needs to have 10 buds left after pruning in order to make grapes.....this is called "cane pruning" rather than spur pruning which can be done with Flame and Ruby. The spur pruning is easier for me. Good luck. Dawn Kazmer ------------ Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: meljoyceevans@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 15:22:04 -0700 (MST) > >I am considering planting a grape vine and would appreciate guidance on the >best for eating, when and where to plant and plant care. I live in the >Chandler area. Thank you very much. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Nov 7 23:29:45 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 23:29:45 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] paalo verde seed Message-ID: I do not have information about growing palo verde ouutside desert regions, but imagine they would need cold protection in most areas. Here is a response to an earlier question: Most seeds get a better start if they are scarified in some way. In the wild, they may have been softened by acid in the gut-track of an animal or otherwise chipped against rocks in a wash after a rain. Try to file the outside of the seed a bit. Maybe even soaking a few in water to see if they sprout better than others. Since you will probably be starting these in containers, I don't see why you couldn't begin now. Linda Guy Master Gardener -------------- Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "gloria" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] paalo verde seed >Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 00:55:41 -0400 > >please send information about germination palo verde seed >does it germinate outside of dessert regions _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Nov 7 23:41:13 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 23:41:13 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sweet Brooms Message-ID: I don't have direct experience with sweet broom. a failure to grow can be the result of too much or too little water, or perhaps soil in contact with the bark (planted too deeply). Check the watering schedule using a moisture meter and a soil probe. Dig at the base of the roots and you should find roots in the first inch -- pull soil away if you don't. The problem could also be caused if the plant was rootbound when you planted -- did you notice roots circling the pot? You probably don't want to add fertilizers or additional amendments now. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Lee and Myrna" <4landm@cox.net> >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sweet Brooms >Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 19:38:48 -0700 > >I have 4 shrubs called Cytisus spachianus. I have had them planted for >about 6 months and they seem to be stalled and on the verge of not growing. > Looking quite stalky and dropping leaves. I have tried several >amendments to the soil, including First Step and not getting to good of >results. The plants common name is Sweet Brooms. Any suggestions? > >Lee _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Nov 7 23:48:30 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 23:48:30 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus prunig and care Message-ID: Response to a similar question: Citrus should never be pruned except to remove dead wood or to keep the tree within bounds, or to remove sucker growth from below the graft.The pruning can be done any time however spring is the preferable time. Do not ever take off more than 25% at any time or more than 1/3 in one year. An excellent bulletin titled Citrus Trees in the Home Garden is available from the U. of A. Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix, 85040 for one dollar. This bulletin addresses all phases of citrus care. Good luck. Rod ------------------ Since you have many dead branches, carefully check your irrigation plan. ou can view an excellent publication on irrigating citrus at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Sue Bass Master Gardener ------------------- Yellow leaves can be the result of too much water, too little water, nutrient deficiency or just normal aging. The above publications should help. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: kleinaz@msn.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 17:29:33 -0700 (MST) > >HELP. I have two citrus trees, one orange & one grapefruit. I have alot of >dead branches in the orange tree. When is the month to cut them out? On the >grapefruit tree, I have yellow leaves. Too much water or not enough? I have >no clue. Thanks. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From pcullan@hotmail.com Fri Nov 8 05:08:30 2002 From: pcullan@hotmail.com (pcullan@hotmail.com) Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 22:08:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211080508.gA858UN24101@Ag.arizona.edu> I am interested in building square gardening planters at out school, with a little help from some other parents. I am considering using the new wood made out of recycled milk bottles and cedar shavings. Called Trek (I think) Has anyone out there tried this new wood yet? Any idea on costs, longevity, etc? Thanks, Pam From Trxienme@cox.net Fri Nov 8 17:42:43 2002 From: Trxienme@cox.net (Trxienme@cox.net) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 10:42:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211081742.gA8HghN04436@Ag.arizona.edu> We had several mature saguaro cacti translanted onto our property this August. The nurseryman stated not to do additional watering. We notice that they are turning yellowish with soft spongy skin. Please advise. From webmaster@amwest-travel.com Fri Nov 8 20:41:18 2002 From: webmaster@amwest-travel.com (webmaster@amwest-travel.com) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 13:41:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211082041.gA8KfIN13508@Ag.arizona.edu> I've had a successful vegetable garden in Phoenix for years. Last few years, I've had problems with plants stunted and dying, leaves browning from bottom up. Melon and eggplant were once prolific; now can't grow at all. Tomatos and peppers still grow but plants are stunted. Tried peas this fall; they grew a few inches and died. This year, insects were clearly NOT the problem. I assume problem is salinity or alkaline soil. How can I tell? How do I resolve the problem? Thanks, Joe From azrish@cs.com Fri Nov 8 21:18:04 2002 From: azrish@cs.com (azrish@cs.com) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 14:18:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211082118.gA8LI4N20968@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a problem with white flies on my grapevines. What is the best way to control these? From cstephens@infinet-is.com Fri Nov 8 22:04:34 2002 From: cstephens@infinet-is.com (Charles Stephens) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 15:04:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Stunted/Dying References: <200211082041.gA8KfIN13508@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <002801c28772$d34f3440$bd86dfd1@default> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0025_01C28738.25E554E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Joe, It sounds like the problem could be root knot nematodes. I suggest that = you look at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/diseases/az1187.pdf. This = publication describes the nasty little critters and gives directions for = sampling roots and soil. If you decide to send a sample to the plant = pathology lab., be sure to follow the sampling instructions carefully. I that hope my tentative diagnosis is wrong! Good Luck, Charlie Stephens Master Gardener Phoenix ----- Original Message -----=20 From: webmaster@amwest-travel.com=20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Friday, November 08, 2002 1:41 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I've had a successful vegetable garden in Phoenix for years. Last few years, I've had problems with plants stunted and dying, leaves browning from bottom up. Melon and eggplant were once prolific; now can't grow at all. Tomatos and peppers still grow but plants are stunted. Tried peas this fall; they grew a few inches and died. This year, insects were clearly NOT the problem. I assume problem is salinity or alkaline soil. How can I tell? How do I resolve the problem? Thanks, Joe _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener ------=_NextPart_000_0025_01C28738.25E554E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Joe,

It sounds like the problem could be = root knot=20 nematodes. I suggest that you look at http://ag.arizona= .edu/pubs/diseases/az1187.pdf.=20 This publication describes the nasty little critters and gives = directions for=20 sampling roots and soil. If you decide to send a sample to the plant = pathology=20 lab., be sure to follow the sampling instructions = carefully.

I that hope my tentative diagnosis is=20 wrong!

Good Luck,

Charlie Stephens
Master=20 Gardener
Phoenix

----- Original Message -----

From:=20 webmaster@amwest-travel.com =

To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu =

Sent: Friday, November 08, 2002 = 1:41=20 PM

Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Question from=20 Home-Hort WWW page

I've had a successful vegetable garden in = Phoenix
for years.=20 Last few years, I've had problems
with plants stunted and dying, = leaves=20 browning from
bottom up. Melon and eggplant were once prolific;=20 now
can't grow at all. Tomatos and peppers still grow but
plants = are=20 stunted. Tried peas this fall; they grew a
few inches and died. = This year,=20 insects were clearly
NOT the problem. I assume problem is salinity=20 or
alkaline soil. How can I tell? How do I resolve
the = problem? =20 Thanks,=20 = Joe

_______________________________________________
Arid_garden= er=20 mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu=
http://Ag.A= rizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
------=_NextPart_000_0025_01C28738.25E554E0-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Nov 8 22:39:14 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 08 Nov 2002 22:39:14 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] whiteflies on grape Message-ID: check out this website for information on whiteflies: http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/insects/whiteflies.html "The control method that has been shown to be most effective to date for homeowners is a spray of detergent and water. Because this mix may harm certain plants, it is best to start with one teaspoon of liquid detergent per gallon of water and spray a few leaves. Wait at least twelve hours, and check the plant. If there are no signs of wilting or burning, go ahead and spray the whole plant. If the plant seems to tolerate the low dose, the next time you may want to gradually increase the dosage per gallon with each spray, up to 2 tablespoons per gallon. Make sure to cover the underside of leaves where the immatures are hidden. Repeat every three to four days as needed. Lawn and garden supply stores will carry soap sprays that require little or no mixing. Whiteflies may be excluded from garden beds using polyethylene row covers. Whitefly numbers should decrease naturally as the weather becomes cooler." Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: azrish@cs.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 14:18:04 -0700 (MST) > >I have a problem with white flies on my grapevines. What is the best way >to control these? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From Norman.Kur@aps.com Fri Nov 8 23:00:06 2002 From: Norman.Kur@aps.com (Kur, Norman (Z57968)) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 16:00:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Watering Schedules Message-ID: I have a question about watering schedules. Basically, over the past few months I had so many issues with my sprinkler/irrigation system that I finally replaced the whole thing. Now, my system consists of 6 zones and I wanted to ask you how often I should water each of them, i.e., how many days per week and for how many minutes. Also, could you please differentiate between summer and winter schedules? Thank you very much for any advice you can provide. Zones 1, 2 and 3 are for my bermuda grass lawn. I have decided not to plant winter grass this year in order to be water conscious. Zone 4 is a drip line with 1 gallon per hour emitters that provide water to all plants, bushes and shrubs. There are rose bushes, hedges of some kind and a couple of other bushes/plants. Zone 5 is a drip line (also with 1 gal/hour emitters) providing water to all non-pine trees, e.g. palms, sumacs and one mesquite tree. Zone 6 is also a drop line (1 gal/hour emitters) providing water to all pine trees. I know this is a lot to ask of you, but again, any advise or help you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again. Norm Kur From deschu@cox.net Sat Nov 9 03:30:19 2002 From: deschu@cox.net (deschu@cox.net) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 20:30:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211090330.gA93UJN18276@Ag.arizona.edu> My eight year old "century plant" died. It had six baby plants around it. It rotted from the bottom although there was no water on it. How do I transplant them? Why did the mother plant die? From penderpaige1@earthlink.net Sat Nov 9 04:42:13 2002 From: penderpaige1@earthlink.net (Paige Lycett) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 20:42:13 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit tree Message-ID: <000d01c287aa$60890de0$1e7879a5@your6kr4zxld90> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C28767.5164FFB0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Dear Arid Gardener, We just arrived at our new digs in Palm Springs to find the grapefruit = and lemon tree looking a little 'off color'. Seems some of the leaves = are turning yellow and dropping. Is this normal for this time of year = or do you think we might have a problem? We know nothing about citrus = so started with the internet. If you have time could you possibly give us some suggestions. Thanks, Janet ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C28767.5164FFB0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Dear Arid Gardener,

We just arrived at our new digs = in Palm=20 Springs to find the grapefruit and lemon tree looking a little 'off=20 color'. Seems some of the leaves are turning yellow and = dropping. Is=20 this normal for this time of year or do you think we might have a = problem? =20 We know nothing about citrus so started with the internet.

If you have time could you = possibly=20 give us some suggestions.

Thanks,

Janet

------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C28767.5164FFB0-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Nov 9 12:48:26 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 09 Nov 2002 12:48:26 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen palms, center sprout breaking Message-ID: Robert, The center sprout is the only active growing point for a palm, so damage to this sprout could be serious. We have a publication which you can view on line at the following site: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Ornamentals It is called Arizona Landscape Palms, publication AZ1021. The brochure provides not only information on specific palms but also care of established palms and diseases and insect pests. This particular section includes symptoms and cultural treatment. I hope this information will assist you in a diagnosis of your palm's particular problem. (information from Sue Bass, Master Gardener) Doctoring sick Queen Palms is not a do it your self project. I would recommend that you contact a Certified Arborist to get an opinion on whether or not the tree can be saved and the cost of treatment. Palms do not handle well fertilizer that is high in phosphorus and most Miracle Grows that I ve seen in the stores are 15-30-15. Palms require a special palm fertilizer. (information from Rod McKusick, Master Gardener and Arborist) Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: beatrice@extremezone.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 17:38:59 -0700 (MST) > >Queen Palms: > Some of my palms droop more than others, and the new >center sprout frequently bends or breaks in the wind. >These trees are only slightly less green than their healthy >neighbors, look otherwise healthy, not too subburned, and soil >is getting moisture. >Any suggestions? >Thanks for your help >Sincerely, >Robert > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Nov 9 13:00:40 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 09 Nov 2002 13:00:40 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] saguaro cactus transplant Message-ID: Saguaro cactus transplant: You may wish to contact the Desert Botanical Gardens or the Arizona Sonora Desert Museum and talk to their horticulturalists who specialize in cacti. Following is some information. from the Arizona Sonora Desert Museum -- Mark the south side of the plant so it will be replanted in the original orientation. (do you know if this was done?) Replant the saguaro at the same depth as it was originally growing. Fill in with sandy soil and tamp in well. Water after a couple of weeks or so and continue to water every few weeks. An armless saguaro, well planted, should not require staking. Large rocks at the base can help stabilize the plant if it becomes unsteady. Watch for sunburning and cover the saguaro with shade cloth if needed. ---------- The younger the cactus, the greater the odds of survival. Horticulturalists at the ASDM warn that if you acquire a saguaro over 4 feet, you're running about 50/50 odds that you've basically purchased a dying cactus (nurseries may guarantee them for a year--but they can take up to 10 years to die). ---------- Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Trxienme@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 10:42:43 -0700 (MST) > >We had several mature saguaro cacti translanted onto our property this >August. The nurseryman stated not to do additional watering. We notice >that they are turning yellowish with soft spongy skin. Please advise. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From caminos@spinxs.com Sat Nov 9 15:58:45 2002 From: caminos@spinxs.com (Mark Rhoades) Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 07:58:45 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Catclaw Acacia (Acacia greggii) Germination Message-ID: <002001c28808$f914c8c0$4a86bbd0@computer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001D_01C287C5.D4314120 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I am germinating several Catclaw acacia seeds. I am curious about the = manner in which the seeds are germinating. They are sending a root into = the soil as well as what appears to be another root upwards into the = air. The seed coatings are coming off and they are opening, however, = they continue to lie on their sides. The seeds were soaked overnight in = water and sown on their sides in containers about four days ago. I have never seen this occur before in all the years I have been growing = plants from seed. Can anyone tell me what might have caused this = phenomena and whether I will get viable plants from these germinating = seeds? Thank you. Mark Rhoades caminos@spinxs.com ------=_NextPart_000_001D_01C287C5.D4314120 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I am germinating several Catclaw acacia seeds. I = am=20 curious about the manner in which the seeds are germinating. They are = sending a=20 root into the soil as well as what appears to be another root upwards = into the=20 air. The seed coatings are coming off and they are opening, = however, they=20 continue to lie on their sides. The seeds were soaked overnight in = water=20 and sown on their sides in containers about four days ago.

I have never seen this occur before in all the = years I=20 have been growing plants from seed. Can anyone tell me what might have = caused=20 this phenomena and whether I will get viable plants from these = germinating=20 seeds?

Thank you.

Mark Rhoades

caminos@spinxs.com

------=_NextPart_000_001D_01C287C5.D4314120-- From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Sat Nov 9 21:07:10 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 14:07:10 -0700 Subject: Fw: [Arid_gardener] Watering Schedules Message-ID: <003b01c28833$f93e1420$2d2c0a3f@ibmbna6040> Norm, The following websites will answer your questions about watering your trees and plants: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html http://www.amwua.org/xscp-wateringschedules.htm Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: Kur, Norman (Z57968) To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Friday, November 08, 2002 4:14 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Watering Schedules >I have a question about watering schedules. Basically, over the past few months I had so many issues with my sprinkler/irrigation system that I finally replaced the whole thing. Now, my system consists of 6 zones and I wanted to ask you how often I should water each of them, i.e., how many days per week and for how many minutes. Also, could you please differentiate between summer and winter schedules? Thank you very much for any advice you can provide. > > >Zones 1, 2 and 3 are for my bermuda grass lawn. I have decided not to plant winter grass this year in order to be water conscious. > >Zone 4 is a drip line with 1 gallon per hour emitters that provide water to all plants, bushes and shrubs. There are rose bushes, hedges of some kind and a couple of other bushes/plants. > >Zone 5 is a drip line (also with 1 gal/hour emitters) providing water to all non-pine trees, e.g. palms, sumacs and one mesquite tree. > >Zone 6 is also a drop line (1 gal/hour emitters) providing water to all pine trees. > >I know this is a lot to ask of you, but again, any advise or help you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again. > >Norm Kur > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From terrific968@yahoo.com Sun Nov 10 00:29:55 2002 From: terrific968@yahoo.com (Terri Smith) Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 16:29:55 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] bouganvilla care Message-ID: <20021110002955.74366.qmail@web20303.mail.yahoo.com> --0-395105344-1036888195=:74259 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I just purchased a potted plant from the local hardware store, and it isn't doing very well. I have been watering it regularly, and have been giving it food, and there is new growth on the ends of the branches. I live in Palmdale, CA, which is in the desert. I understand that they like dry climates, but winter is coming on, and it is getting very cold overnight. Because of this, I keep it inside, but the leaves have paled, and they are falling off like hair! Help! Soon, or we might be discussing a dead plant! Thanks Terri --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive medley & videos from Greatest Hits CD --0-395105344-1036888195=:74259 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

I just purchased a potted plant from the local hardware store, and it isn't doing very well. I have been watering it regularly, and have been giving it food, and there is new growth on the ends of the branches. I live in Palmdale, CA, which is in the desert. I understand that they like dry climates, but winter is coming on, and it is getting very cold overnight. Because of this, I keep it inside, but the leaves have paled, and they are falling off like hair! Help! Soon, or we might be discussing a dead plant!

Thanks

Terri

Do you Yahoo!?
U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive medley & videos from Greatest Hits CD --0-395105344-1036888195=:74259-- From ASUsped@aol.com Sun Nov 10 07:23:32 2002 From: ASUsped@aol.com (ASUsped@aol.com) Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 02:23:32 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] a clothes hanger to measure the depth of water Message-ID: <53.1f172909.2aff6374@aol.com> I've read in this list that after watering a plant we should measure the depth of water in the soil by inserting a screw driver or a rod, and the rod should go as deep as 3 feet with no resistance for trees and one foot for small plants. Can I use a metal clothes hanger to measure the depth of the water, instead of a rod or a screwdriver? I only saw tools in the nurseries that go as deep as 12" only.........Mike From OBONANZA@aol.com Sun Nov 10 13:42:58 2002 From: OBONANZA@aol.com (OBONANZA@aol.com) Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 08:42:58 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: --part1_bd.2a2149dc.2affbc62_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have a 25 ' sahuaro that so far has lost 2 huge arms, during a monsoon 2 yrs. ago & again this summer. The cavities on both are wide open. Should i clean them with bleach or sulphur to slow or prevent rot or infection? Some people in my area, (Green Valley) have them covered with wire mesh to keep birds out, others have them puttied up. Any suggestions / Jim O'Day --part1_bd.2a2149dc.2affbc62_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have a 25 ' sahuaro that so far has lost 2 huge arms, during a monsoon 2 yrs. ago & again this summer. The cavities on both are wide open. Should i clean them with bleach or sulphur to slow or prevent rot or infection? Some people in my area, (Green Valley) have them covered with wire mesh to keep birds out, others have them puttied up. Any suggestions /
Jim O'Day --part1_bd.2a2149dc.2affbc62_boundary-- From heartfelt@heartfeltreminders.com Sun Nov 10 16:03:47 2002 From: heartfelt@heartfeltreminders.com (heartfelt@heartfeltreminders.com) Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 09:03:47 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211101603.gAAG3lN22782@Ag.arizona.edu> I have discovered a large fungus (I believe) growing in main trunk joint of my fig tree. It is a yellow/brown wet-looking mound growing out of the spot where two main trunks branch out. The tree has been stressed, but I've had it treated every year and keep it well pruned and watered. Need to know how to safely eliminate the fungus and save the tree. I just love it. From arnies@jps.net Mon Nov 11 21:26:40 2002 From: arnies@jps.net (arnies@jps.net) Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 14:26:40 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211112126.gABLQeN13092@Ag.arizona.edu> We have a accia tree that is foaming and driping and we don't know what to do. Please advise is this normal or not. The tree is about 7 years old and it looks like it is foaming and driping out of cracks in the branches. From adhong@yahoo.com Tue Nov 12 04:19:17 2002 From: adhong@yahoo.com (adhong@yahoo.com) Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 21:19:17 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211120419.gAC4JHN04394@Ag.arizona.edu> I have cypress trees which are turning brown and droopy from the bottom up. The are not standing straight up anymore and are slouching. What is wrong and what can I do about it? From Cearbear7@aol.com Tue Nov 12 04:24:43 2002 From: Cearbear7@aol.com (Cearbear7@aol.com) Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 23:24:43 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] pecan tree Message-ID: --part1_b8.3117312c.2b01dc8b_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit My pecan tree planted 1 year ago now has brown leaves with a little new growth. It gets water every other day. I fertilized it once per month over the summer. What could be wrong with it? the leaves are half green with the tips brown. cearbear@juno.com --part1_b8.3117312c.2b01dc8b_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit My pecan tree planted 1 year ago now has brown leaves with a little new growth. It gets water every other day. I fertilized it once per month over the summer. What could be wrong with it? the leaves are half green with the tips brown.
cearbear@juno.com --part1_b8.3117312c.2b01dc8b_boundary-- From steph308@msn.com Tue Nov 12 04:25:30 2002 From: steph308@msn.com (steph308@msn.com) Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 21:25:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211120425.gAC4PUN04879@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a grape fruit tree that is only about 20 months since I planted it. It bore fruit last year and this year.(quite a lot for a young tree.It is healthy and the trunk has about doubled this year. But it is short and stocky. I can't seem to get it to get any height. What can I do to get it to grow tall and not short and stocky? From bradleyl@Ag.arizona.edu Sat Nov 9 06:08:13 2002 From: bradleyl@Ag.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Fri, 08 Nov 2002 23:08:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] GREENHOUSE CROP PRODUCTION SHORT COURSE 1/19-22 Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20021108230736.0412f210@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_299290==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed >7 GREENHOUSE CROP PRODUCTION SHORT COURSE > >The University of Arizona's Controlled Environment Agriculture Center >(CEAC) will present a short course on greenhouse crop production and >engineering design January 19-22, 2003 in Tucson, AZ. The continuing >education professional short course will include series on plant sciences, >engineering, and marketing presentations. Major production topics will >include nutrition, irrigation, pest management, marketing, and >environmental control. Crop-specific examples of hydroponic tomato or >floral plant production will also be presented. The program will highlight >state-of-the-art instructional computer technology supplemented with >handouts and laboratory demonstrations. >The program is limited to 100 attendees, so register early to ensure your >place. Registration costs $195 per participant and ends January 6. >For more information, visit CEAC's site at http://ag.arizona. edu/ceac/ or >contact Gene Giacomelli, 520-621-1412; fax 520-621-3691; e-mail giacomel@ >ag.arizona.edu. > Submitted by: gene giacomelli Email: giacomel@ag.arizona.edu > controlled environment agriculture center Phone: 621-1412 > For more information: http://ag.arizona.edu/ceac/extension/cpesJan03.htm ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens --=====================_299290==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

7 GREENHOUSE CROP PRODUCTION SHORT COURSE

The University of Arizona�s Controlled Environment Agriculture Center (CEAC) will present a short course on greenhouse crop production and engineering design January 19-22, 2003 in Tucson, AZ. The continuing education professional short course will include series on plant sciences, engineering, and marketing presentations. Major production topics will include nutrition, irrigation, pest management, marketing, and environmental control. Crop-specific examples of hydroponic tomato or floral plant production will also be presented. The program will highlight state-of-the-art instructional computer technology supplemented with handouts and laboratory demonstrations.
The program is limited to 100 attendees, so register early to ensure your place. Registration costs $195 per participant and ends January 6.
For more information, visit CEAC�s site at http://ag.arizona. edu/ceac/ or contact Gene Giacomelli, 520-621-1412; fax 520-621-3691; e-mail giacomel@ ag.arizona.edu.
    Submitted by: gene giacomelli    Email: giacomel@ag.arizona.edu
    controlled environment agriculture center    Phone: 621-1412
    For more information: http://ag.arizona.edu/ceac/extension/cpesJan03.htm

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807

Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax: (602) 470-8092
email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/
http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens

--=====================_299290==_.ALT-- From gizmoaz@cox.net Tue Nov 12 16:01:59 2002 From: gizmoaz@cox.net (gizmoaz@cox.net) Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 11:01:59 -0500 Subject: [Arid_gardener] a clothes hanger to measure the depth of water Message-ID: <20021112160159.SNPZ2201.fed1mtao03.cox.net@smtp.west.cox.net> Hi Mike, Go to Home Depot or some hardware store like that, and buy you a 4-5 foot piece of rebar. You can use that as a probe for seeing how far it inserts into the ground, and it will be a lot cheaper. You can by Rebar in various sizes there. -- Chat with you later... ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 *** Check out all the new Garden Pics from around the world - "My Friends Gardens" *** http://www.GardenersCorner.com Show me a milk man in high heels and I'll show you a Dairy Queen. > > From: ASUsped@aol.com > Date: 2002/11/10 Sun AM 02:23:32 EST > To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu > Subject: [Arid_gardener] a clothes hanger to measure the depth of water > > > I've read in this list that after watering a plant we should measure > the depth of water in the soil by inserting a screw driver or a rod, and the > rod should go as deep as 3 feet with no resistance for trees and one foot for > small plants. > > Can I use a metal clothes hanger to measure the depth of the water, > instead of a rod or a screwdriver? I only saw tools in the nurseries that go > as deep as 12" only.........Mike > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com Tue Nov 12 16:40:53 2002 From: Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com (Zelhart Alan-rpcs30) Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 09:40:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] a clothes hanger to measure the depth of wate r Message-ID: <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B9930704051432@az33exm25.corp.mot.com> Sorry to the moderators, but one thing I should add to this, bend the top portion of the rebar so that when pushing it down you do not poke a hole in your hand =) -- Chat with you later... ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 *** Check out all the new Garden Pics from around the world - "My Friends Gardens" *** http://www.GardenersCorner.com Hell was full, so I came back ! -----Original Message----- From: gizmoaz@cox.net [mailto:gizmoaz@cox.net] Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2002 9:02 AM To: ASUsped@aol.com; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] a clothes hanger to measure the depth of water Hi Mike, Go to Home Depot or some hardware store like that, and buy you a 4-5 foot piece of rebar. You can use that as a probe for seeing how far it inserts into the ground, and it will be a lot cheaper. You can by Rebar in various sizes there. From joeh@peoriaaz.com Tue Nov 12 19:36:38 2002 From: joeh@peoriaaz.com (joeh@peoriaaz.com) Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 12:36:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211121936.gACJacN25597@Ag.arizona.edu> Is it neccessary to keep moving the drip watering system outlet point to the trees canopy edge as it grows throughout the years? Canopy has grown beyond the 36" diameter hole I initially dug when planted. Now its into the native clayee soil which is quite compacted. Would it do any good if I augered down 24 inches, inserted a 1 inch multi-holed pvc pipe and attached the drip head to the pipe top at canopy edge? From lynne.guerrette@intel.com Tue Nov 12 22:59:14 2002 From: lynne.guerrette@intel.com (lynne.guerrette@intel.com) Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 15:59:14 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211122259.gACMxEN12479@Ag.arizona.edu> I planted 4 blue-tip junipers (from 1-gallon pots) last January, watered them according to the nursery's instructions, and saw them grow close to a foot by July. But then they began getting brown from the bottom up, and 3 out of four are now completely dried up despite continued watering. Did they just bake in the summer sun? I plan to replace the dead trees, but if the junipers were victims of our summer sun, what is an evergreen that can tolerate full exposure? I like the non-messiness of evergreens, but would consider other varieties that don't shed. From ronsueboe@sprintmail.com Wed Nov 13 01:01:14 2002 From: ronsueboe@sprintmail.com (ronsueboe@sprintmail.com) Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 18:01:14 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211130101.gAD11BN04937@Ag.arizona.edu> My 7 year old grapefruit tree has suddenly started to drop large numbers of leaves. They are not turning yellow but are simply wilting, curling and then drying up and falling off. The entire branch will loose all of it's leaves practically at the same time. This started less than a week ago and has affected mainly the lower branches but I have noticed a few upper branches starting to wilt as well. Does anyone have any suggestions? Does this sound like mesophyll collapse? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Nov 13 13:03:40 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 13:03:40 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Saguaro cavity Message-ID: Jim, Please call Pima County Office at 626-5161 for more information. If the cavities are calloused over, you probably do not need to treat them. Please do not put putty, cement or other materials in the holes as this can lead to more damage. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: OBONANZA@aol.com >To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) >Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 08:42:58 EST > >I have a 25 ' sahuaro that so far has lost 2 huge arms, during a monsoon 2 >yrs. ago & again this summer. The cavities on both are wide open. Should i >clean them with bleach or sulphur to slow or prevent rot or infection? Some >people in my area, (Green Valley) have them covered with wire mesh to keep >birds out, others have them puttied up. Any suggestions / >Jim O'Day _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Nov 13 13:07:48 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 13:07:48 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] pecan tree, salt burn Message-ID: The leaves you describe sound like they are showing symptoms of salt burn. You didn't say how deeply you water, but I would suggest you slow-soak the tree until water has penetrated to 3 feet deep and out to the canopy (drip line) or beyond. That should flush out excess salts in the soil. Pecans require a lot of water; contact your local Cooperative Extension Office for a brochure on care of pecan trees. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Cearbear7@aol.com >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] pecan tree >Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 23:24:43 EST > >My pecan tree planted 1 year ago now has brown leaves with a little new >growth. It gets water every other day. I fertilized it once per month over >the summer. What could be wrong with it? the leaves are half green with the >tips brown. >cearbear@juno.com _________________________________________________________________ STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Nov 13 13:12:00 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 13:12:00 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit tree, yellow leaves Message-ID: Yellow leaves could be caused from over or under watering plus other things. Some yellowing and leaf drop is normal this time of year. If you will advise the age of the tree, how much water and how often, thay will give us a clue as to the cause. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on citrus irrigation at the following website: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Paige Lycett" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit tree >Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 20:42:13 -0800 > >Dear Arid Gardener, > We just arrived at our new digs in Palm Springs to find the grapefruit >and lemon tree looking a little 'off color'. Seems some of the leaves are >turning yellow and dropping. Is this normal for this time of year or do >you think we might have a problem? We know nothing about citrus so started >with the internet. > If you have time could you possibly give us some suggestions. >Thanks, >Janet _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Nov 13 13:25:02 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 13:25:02 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] acacia tree, foam on trunk and branches Message-ID: The symptoms you describe could be the result of a decay fungus (collar, foot, root and crown rots) caused by an organism such as phtophthora. It could also be the result of a bacteriaial infection (wetwood, foamy canker). Call your local Cooperative Extension Office for more information. (look in the county pages of the phone book). Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: arnies@jps.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 14:26:40 -0700 (MST) > >We have a accia tree that is foaming and driping and we don't know what to >do. Please advise is this normal or not. The tree is about 7 years old and >it looks like it is foaming and driping out of cracks in the branches. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Nov 13 13:30:10 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 13:30:10 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] fungus on fig tree Message-ID: The fungus you describe could be Ganoderma, a heart rot disease. Can you bring a section of the fungus into your local Cooperative Extension Office for identification? (check the counyty pages in your phone book for location). Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: heartfelt@heartfeltreminders.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 09:03:47 -0700 (MST) > >I have discovered a large fungus (I believe) > growing in main trunk joint of my fig tree. >It is a yellow/brown wet-looking mound growing >out of the spot where two main trunks branch >out. >The tree has been stressed, but I've had it >treated every year and keep it well pruned >and watered. Need to know how to safely eliminate >the fungus and save the tree. I just love it. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Nov 13 13:36:04 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 13:36:04 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] bouganvillea care Message-ID: Bougainvillea likes full sun, and it does not require a lot of water and practically no fertilizer. If the roots are disturbed when it is planted it may never recover and grow. Since you are growing yours indoors, be sure it has ample bright light. Cut back on the watering and stop fertilizing. It will freeze back in cold weather but usually regrows as soon as warm weather returns. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Terri Smith >To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] bouganvilla care >Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 16:29:55 -0800 (PST) > > >I just purchased a potted plant from the local hardware store, and it isn't >doing very well. I have been watering it regularly, and have been giving >it food, and there is new growth on the ends of the branches. I live in >Palmdale, CA, which is in the desert. I understand that they like dry >climates, but winter is coming on, and it is getting very cold overnight. >Because of this, I keep it inside, but the leaves have paled, and they are >falling off like hair! Help! Soon, or we might be discussing a dead >plant! > >Thanks > > > > >Terri > > >--------------------------------- >Do you Yahoo!? >U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive medley & videos from Greatest Hits CD _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Nov 13 14:28:23 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 14:28:23 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] cypress/juniper turning brown Message-ID: Cypress should be allowed to dry out ( the soil ) between waterings; watering could be the problem with the cypress. Spider mites and or twig borers could also cause browning of the foliage. The mites can be controlled by a strong spray of water daily; in severe cases, spray with an insecticidal soap solution and repeat in 7-10 days. Check small branches for holes to determine if it might be a twig borer. If you fertilize, be sure to fertilize lightly in the spring. Master Gardener Manual website on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: adhong@yahoo.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 21:19:17 -0700 (MST) > >I have cypress trees which are turning brown and droopy from the bottom up. >The are not standing straight up anymore and are slouching. What is wrong >and what can I do about it? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus From rdtechs@goodrich.com Wed Nov 13 14:48:04 2002 From: rdtechs@goodrich.com (rdtechs@goodrich.com) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 07:48:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211131448.gADEm4N15857@Ag.arizona.edu> We were wondering about the tiny corn like you see is Chinese food. Does it grow like "normal" corn on big stalks? Are seeds available to grow it? What is it really called? Mark From imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net Wed Nov 13 17:14:17 2002 From: imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 10:14:17 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Baby Corn References: <200211131448.gADEm4N15857@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <004e01c28b38$50f30b10$2d52530c@delljor9501> You can grow it from some of the regular types of sweet corn or there are varieties developed so the baby corn can be harvested before the ears get too large after which it loses it baby corn status. Some seed companies with web sites carry it. Go to www.parkseed.com and type 5530 in the search window, then when the next page comes up click on the "Corn Bonus Hybrid" link for a good photo and description. A Washington State University Extension Pub. explains it pretty well at: http://cru.cahe.wsu.edu/CEPublications/pnw0532/pnw0532.pdf You can also find lots more info with a google search using keywords "baby corn". Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > We were wondering about the tiny corn like you see is Chinese food. Does it grow like "normal" corn on big stalks? Are seeds available to grow it? What is it really called? From carolpeluso@tch-az.com Wed Nov 13 17:32:33 2002 From: carolpeluso@tch-az.com (carolpeluso@tch-az.com) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 10:32:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211131732.gADHWXN24608@Ag.arizona.edu> How can I determine the Nitrogen, Phosphorus & Pottasium values in "compost tea"? From chcarmean@cox.net Wed Nov 13 18:32:08 2002 From: chcarmean@cox.net (chcarmean@cox.net) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 11:32:08 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211131832.gADIW8N09862@Ag.arizona.edu> Our HOA (in Scottsdale) is seeking a replacement for a large fountain in our common area. The site is circular, about 20 feet in diameter, and built up about two feet and contained by a retaining wall. I would like your suggestions for a tree or desert plant that could be planted as a focal point for the area. Clearly we are seeking a relatively large specimen that would be attractive throughout the year. The site is in the sun most of the day. Water is available We are willing to spend in the $2500 area. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Nov 13 20:23:07 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 20:23:07 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] compost tea Message-ID: according to "Secrets to Great Soil" by Elizabeth P. Stell: "compost tea supplies only low levels of major nutrients (N-P-K), it's good for a micronutrient boost." (commercial compost is about 1-1-1) Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: carolpeluso@tch-az.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 10:32:33 -0700 (MST) > >How can I determine the Nitrogen, Phosphorus & Pottasium values in "compost >tea"? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Nov 13 20:32:14 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 20:32:14 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] citrus losing leaves Message-ID: There are many possible causes, often watering practices or diesease. Following is an answer to an earlier question that will give you resources to help find the cause. Check watering, soil buildup against trunk, and any sign of sap or oozing. Citrus Trees are subject to several diseases including Root Rot, Foot Rot and Gummosis. The symptons include sap oozing from the trunk or branches and defoliation. Prevention is the best approach to controlling most citrus diseases. Proper watering is important to controlling diseases. Let soil dry out partially between watering and don't allow water to stand against the trunk. If necessary, remove soil away from the trunk and create a gentle slope so water can drain away. Clean up falllen leaves from under your trees. The County has several good docs to help you with your citrus. The * docs are avail online at the web site below. Others are avail for $1 at the address below. CITRUS *AZ1001 Low Desert Citrus Varieties *AZ1146 Budding Citrus Trees *AZ1151 Irrigating Citrus Trees *AZ1154 Diseases of Citrus in Arizona MC8 Recovery of Neglected Citrus Trees MC17 Irrigation Needs of Citrus MC65 Quality Citrus Trees MC91 Fertilizing Citrus Trees Q191 Phytophthora Foot Rot of Citrus 8670 Fertilizing Citrus Trees in Arizona http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Hope this helps GG >From: ronsueboe@sprintmail.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 18:01:14 -0700 (MST) > >My 7 year old grapefruit tree has suddenly started >to drop large numbers of leaves. They are not turning >yellow but are simply wilting, curling and then drying >up and falling off. The entire branch will loose all of >it's leaves practically at the same time. This started >less than a week ago and has affected mainly the lower >branches but I have noticed a few upper branches >starting to wilt as well. Does anyone have any suggestions? >Does this sound like mesophyll collapse? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From kainass@cox.net Wed Nov 13 20:36:30 2002 From: kainass@cox.net (kainass@cox.net) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 13:36:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211132036.gADKaUN08644@Ag.arizona.edu> I am in the process of re-landscaping my house. I am putting up a block wall along my alley and plan on putting a row of ornamental orange trees along it to create a taller buffer. My questions is, what is the difference between a 5 gallon ($20) ornamental orange tree and a 15 gallon ($90)one. How much shorter, how much younger? Is it worth it to spend the extra money for the 15 gallon. Any help would be appreciated. THANKS!!! From merisea@earthlink.net Thu Nov 14 03:12:03 2002 From: merisea@earthlink.net (merisea@earthlink.net) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 20:12:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211140312.gAE3C3N20859@Ag.arizona.edu> My 15yr old lemon bottlebrush plantings used as screening on southeast and southwest corners of property are showing die out and it appears that this is very serious threatening loss of these valued shrubs. Leaves and limbs totally dry out. any idea why this is happening? Can it be the increase in our temperatures or is their a disease problem below soil, no visible other signs on leaves. HELP. From isaiah58@cgmailbox.com Thu Nov 14 07:11:59 2002 From: isaiah58@cgmailbox.com (White O' Mornin') Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 00:11:59 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] grapes References: Message-ID: <000601c28bad$21f802a0$7b57fecf@robertde> Speaking of grapes; Mine are just under one year in the ground. I bought them bare rooted, recently built them a large arbor and they are only about two x two feet, at present. However, they are loosing their leaves already. I realize that they are deciduous but isn't it a bit early, and warm, for them to do that in Arizona? Or are mine ill? I haven't noticed any unusual pests or fungus' about them. Just dropping their leaves and looking bad. Maybe they need more watering? Please, help and advise? ~Rachel~ Better Dogs, Goats 'n Gardens (of White O'Mornin' Farm) Arizona Zone - 13 We may not know what the future holds but, we can trust the one who holds the future! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Linda Drew" To: ; Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2002 4:25 PM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] grapes > Here in Tucson we grow black beauty, flame and Thompson's seedless > very successfully. > > Thompson, Flame, BlackMonukka and Perlette were listed as good for table > grapes and raisin-making. Cardinal and Exotic were suggested > for table or jelly. Concord can do well. > > > Here is aresponse to an earlier question: > > We have a publication called Backyard Grapes which you can order from the > Cooperative Extension service. The publication is number MC 59 and you can > view information on ordering it at: > http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm > Some branches of the library have a binder containing our publications. If > you choose to check there, ask the librarian for binder 635 General > Reference. The title is Horticulture Publications. > > Maricopa County Cooperative Extension > 4341 E. Broadway Road > Phoenix, AZ 85040 > (602) 470-8086 ext. 301 > 8:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. > Monday through Friday > > --------------- > > Some additional information I found in the book Desert Gardening, by George > Brookbank is that when you plant your grape, you should dig a big hole at > least 2 feet square x 2 feet deep. Get through any caliche. Then backfill > with soil mixed > with compost or steer manure, ammonium phosphate and sulphur. He says 1-1/2 > cubic feet of compost or steer manure, 2 lbs of sulphur and 1/2 lb of > ammonium phosphate. This book has quite a bit of information of growing > grapes. You might want > to take a look at a copy. > > Sue Bass > Master Gardener > ----------- > Grapes grow very well here in souther Arizona. They are easy to start > from cuttings in January. I'm layering them into 5 gallon pots now ~ > cuttings are difficult except in the winter. George Brookbanks "Desert > Gardening" lists varieties that do well in Tuscon. > My experience is only with Thompson, Flame and Ruby Seedless here > near Phoenix. You want to grow them enough away from any structure so > that you can walk around them without touching them. The grape leaf > skeletonizer can be a big problem; it's fuzz is very irritating to my > skin; however, the birds have cleaned them up without my having to do a > thing to control them at all. My plants are inside a cage which can be > bird proof during grape production. > Grapes provide wonderful shade and an evaporative cooler effect > for strawberries, however, grapes need to have water withheld in the fall > to help them become dormant just exactly when strawberries are making > runners and gathering strength for next spring's crop. A better > companion plant for grapes is asparagus. Grapes make too much shade to > be anywhere except north or west of vegetables. Since they are fairly > permanent, you need to plan for future garden efforts before planting > them. > I prefer Flame and Ruby because Thompson needs to have 10 buds > left after pruning in order to make grapes.....this is called "cane > pruning" rather than spur pruning which can be done with Flame and Ruby. > The spur pruning is easier for me. Good luck. > > Dawn Kazmer > ------------ > > > Linda Drew > Master Gardener > > > > > > > > >From: meljoyceevans@aol.com > >To: > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 15:22:04 -0700 (MST) > > > >I am considering planting a grape vine and would appreciate guidance on the > >best for eating, when and where to plant and plant care. I live in the > >Chandler area. Thank you very much. From copper@bargainsail.com Thu Nov 14 17:02:53 2002 From: copper@bargainsail.com (Copper Bittner) Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 10:02:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cabin available on the January adventure cruise for gardeners Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0102_01C28BC4.FF5C5FD0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit This price goes up after this cabin is filled. A gentleman called to tell me he wasn't going to be able to go and I need to fill his cabin. Are you single? Cruise West has a Single Share Program that allows you to book your cabin and wait for another single partner to share. If no one comes along, you get to sail in your own cabin! It's a great deal! Don't let being alone stop you from this extraordinaire adventure. Giant Cardon Cactus Whale moms and calves Swim with Sea Lions Soak up those rays A photographer's paradise Casual atmosphere...no tuxedos! Naturalist interpretation of the land- and sea- scapes Explore the fauna on deserted desert islands Enjoy a special Mexican Fiesta for our ship only! Call Copper Today at 480-219-4966 office or 480-802-9709 home. Hurry...the price goes way up after this cabin goes! ------=_NextPart_000_0102_01C28BC4.FF5C5FD0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

This = price goes up=20 after this cabin is filled. A gentleman called to tell me he = wasn't going=20 to be able to go and I need to fill his cabin.

Are = you=20 single? Cruise West has a Single Share Program that allows you to = book=20 your cabin and wait for another single partner to share. If no one = comes=20 along, you get to sail in your own cabin! It's a great deal! = Don't=20 let being alone stop you from this extraordinaire = adventure.

Giant = Cardon=20 Cactus

Whale = moms and=20 calves

Swim = with Sea=20 Lions

Soak = up those=20 rays

A = photographer's=20 paradise

Casual = atmosphere...no tuxedos!

Naturalist=20 interpretation of the land- and = sea- scapes

Explore the fauna on=20 deserted desert islands

Enjoy = a special=20 Mexican Fiesta for our ship only!

Call Copper=20 Today at 480-219-4966 office or 480-802-9709 = home.

Hurry...the price goes way up after this cabin=20 goes!

------=_NextPart_000_0102_01C28BC4.FF5C5FD0-- From bmarcus2@cox.net Fri Nov 15 04:55:23 2002 From: bmarcus2@cox.net (Barbara Marcus) Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 21:55:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roses and annuals Message-ID: <009c01c28c63$34adc6d0$1d233818@Home> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0099_01C28C28.88306A50 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I planted a climbing rose last spring. It is growing nicely however we = have seen only 1 bloom. Is this normal? Should I prune it in January = and how much? I've planted annuals underneath it. I know the watewr = requirements are different for roses and annuals. Should I still deep = water the rose. And how much water do annuals (snaps, stock and = petunias) need now? Thank you, Barbara ------=_NextPart_000_0099_01C28C28.88306A50 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I planted a climbing rose last = spring. It is=20 growing nicely however we have seen only 1 bloom. Is this = normal? =20 Should I prune it in January and how much? I've planted annuals = underneath=20 it. I know the watewr requirements are different for roses and=20 annuals. Should I still deep water the rose. And how much = water do=20 annuals (snaps, stock and petunias) need now?

Thank you,=20 Barbara

------=_NextPart_000_0099_01C28C28.88306A50-- From bennettswfskb@cs.com Fri Nov 15 05:24:03 2002 From: bennettswfskb@cs.com (bennettswfskb@cs.com) Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 22:24:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211150524.gAF5O3N18030@Ag.arizona.edu> There is a (probably) blue palo verde about a foot outide our front fence toward the road that is also under the power lines. Sooner or later it will get either cut down or butchered probably by the power company. What is the best way to save the tree without spending a fortune? I would love to have the tree to the west of our house. It is our tree, just in a bad place. How can I dig it up and transplant it successfully? Thank you for any help you can give. Sherry From copper@bargainsail.com Fri Nov 15 13:42:22 2002 From: copper@bargainsail.com (Copper Bittner) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 06:42:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] One AA Cabin left addendum Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_003C_01C28C72.2688DFE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit My apologies to the list. I wasn't complete yesterday. The cruise departs La Paz Mexico on January 18, 2002. This is an 8 day cruise with the only port being Loreto. The rest of the nights will be spent aboard anchored in coves of deserted islands, the ones we explore during the day as we journey along the western coast of the Sea of Cortes. You can view an itinerary at my website www.bargainsail.com/mgtour.asp and see the ship and cruise company at www.cruisewest.com. We have a single female MG already signed up and awaiting a companion in the AA category. Come join the fun of exploring the local flora and fauna of this rugged territory. There are other cabins still available, but they are approximately $400.00 more per person, depending on availability. For more details and to make a reservation, call Copper Bittner/Master Gardener/Accredited Cruise Counselor SailAway Vacations 480-219-4966 office 480-802-9709 home between 6:30-9 AM and 5-8 PM and weekends ------=_NextPart_000_003C_01C28C72.2688DFE0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

My = apologies to the=20 list. I wasn't complete yesterday.

The = cruise departs=20 La Paz Mexico on January 18, 2002. This is an 8 day cruise with = the only=20 port being Loreto. The rest of the nights will be spent aboard = anchored in=20 coves of deserted islands, the ones we explore during the day as we = journey=20 along the western coast of the Sea of Cortes.

You = can view an=20 itinerary at my website www.bargainsail.com/mgtour.asp and see=20 the ship and cruise company at www.cruisewest.com.

We = have a single=20 female MG already signed up and awaiting a companion in the AA=20 category.

Come = join the fun of=20 exploring the local flora and fauna of this rugged=20 territory.

There are other cabins still available, but they = are=20 approximately $400.00 more per person, depending on=20 availability.

For = more details and=20 to make a reservation, call

Copper = Bittner/Master Gardener/Accredited Cruise Counselor

SailAway=20 Vacations

480-219-4966=20 office

480-802-9709 home=20 between 6:30-9 AM and 5-8 PM and=20 weekends

------=_NextPart_000_003C_01C28C72.2688DFE0-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Nov 15 16:08:20 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 16:08:20 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] cypress/juniper turning brown Message-ID: First, use a probe to make sure that each time you water, you water down to about three feet and out to the dripline of the tree or beyond. You will probably have to experiment with your drip system to see how much time it takes to achieve that depth and breadth of watering. One you have figured out the length of time you must water each time, you can determine the frequency of watering. In general, trees are watered about once a week in the summer, once every two weeks in the spring and fall, and once a month in the winter. If you've been watering much differently than this, you may need to switch more gradually to the new system. Linda >From: Alvin Hong >To: Linda Drew >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] cypress/juniper turning brown >Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 12:25:21 -0800 (PST) > > >can you recommend how much water they need (winter and summers are >different?). i have them on a drip system that can water up to 99 min. >each day. thanks for all the help! >alvin > Linda Drew wrote:Cypress should be allowed to >dry out ( the soil ) between waterings; >watering could be the problem with the cypress. > >Spider mites and or twig borers could also cause browning of the foliage. >The mites can be controlled by a strong spray of water >daily; in severe cases, spray with an insecticidal soap solution >and repeat in 7-10 days. Check small branches for holes to determine >if it might be a twig borer. > >If you fertilize, be sure to fertilize lightly in the spring. > >Master Gardener Manual website on irrigation: >http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html > > >Linda Drew >Master Gardener > > > >From: adhong@yahoo.com > >To: > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 21:19:17 -0700 (MST) > > > >I have cypress trees which are turning brown and droopy from the bottom >up. > >The are not standing straight up anymore and are slouching. What is wrong > >and what can I do about it? > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Arid_gardener mailing list > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > >_________________________________________________________________ >MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* >http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus > > > >--------------------------------- >Do you Yahoo!? >Yahoo! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your site _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Nov 15 16:36:35 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 16:36:35 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit tree, yellow leaves Message-ID: Your citrus trees should be watered to a depth of 2 to 3 feet and to the dripline and beyond. You will have to experiment with your drip system to see how long you must water to reach that depth and breadth. Once you know the length of time to water, you will want to figure out the frequency. In summer this may be as much as 1 to 3 times a week, once every 1 to 2 weeks in the spring and fall, and once every 3 to 4 weeks in the winter. Print out the citrus irrigation guide for more info: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf You will usually fertilize 2 to 3 times a year --- Valentine's DAy, Memorial Day and Labor Day. Just follow the label directions on the fertilizer. Linda >From: "Paige Lycett" >To: "Linda Drew" >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit tree, yellow leaves >Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 07:28:51 -0800 > >Thanks for the reply Linda. The lemon tree is pretty big (don't know the >age) and gets flooded every day via timed watering device (probably 15 >minutes) and the soil is always damp. We've since found out that we should >water it every month (except June, July, Aug.) and we only fertilized it >once a year! > >The grapefruit got the same treatment and is just a baby, probably only one >to two years. It had four grapefruit on it when we got here and we took >them off before maturity to help the poor little thing. > >So I bought citrus fertilizer with iron yesterday and gave the big one 2 >cups and the little one 1/2 cup. Do you think that was ok? > > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Linda Drew" >To: ; >Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2002 5:12 AM >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit tree, yellow leaves > > > > Yellow leaves could be caused from over or under watering plus other >things. > > Some yellowing and leaf drop is normal this time of year. > > If you will advise the age of the tree, how much water and how often, > > thay will give us a clue as to the cause. > > > > Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on citrus irrigation at the > > following website: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf > > > > Linda Drew > > Master Gardener > > > > >From: "Paige Lycett" > > >To: > > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit tree > > >Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 20:42:13 -0800 > > > > > >Dear Arid Gardener, > > > We just arrived at our new digs in Palm Springs to find the >grapefruit > > >and lemon tree looking a little 'off color'. Seems some of the leaves >are > > >turning yellow and dropping. Is this normal for this time of year or >do > > >you think we might have a problem? We know nothing about citrus so >started > > >with the internet. > > > If you have time could you possibly give us some suggestions. > > >Thanks, > > >Janet > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. > > http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail > > > > _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Nov 15 16:49:37 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 16:49:37 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] bottlebrush dying Message-ID: It is possible this is a disease condition such as phtophthora (crown, foot rot) or some other disease such as fusarium or verticillium. Usually, there is not much you can do for these diseases other than good cultural practices to keep the plants healthy and vigorous, and preventing injuries. Is it possible to dig out some soil and finger-sized roots from one in decline and bring that plus some branches to your local Cooperative Extension Office? Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: merisea@earthlink.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 20:12:03 -0700 (MST) > >My 15yr old lemon bottlebrush plantings used as screening on southeast and >southwest corners of property are showing die out and it appears that this >is very serious threatening loss of these valued shrubs. Leaves and limbs >totally dry out. any idea why this is happening? Can it be the increase in >our temperatures or is their a disease problem below soil, no visible other >signs on leaves. HELP. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Nov 15 16:55:10 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 16:55:10 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] grapes Message-ID: It does seem a bit early for the grapes to go dormant. How are you watering them now? If the soil seems very dry, I would suggest giving them a good watering now and then let them go dormant. Water once a month or so during the winter, especially if we don't get good winter rains. (I am not an expert, so I hope others will have some ideas from their experience). Linda >From: "White O' Mornin'" >To: "Linda Drew" , >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] grapes >Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 00:11:59 -0700 > >Speaking of grapes; Mine are just under one year in >the ground. I bought them bare rooted, recently built >them a large arbor and they are only about two x two >feet, at present. > >However, they are loosing their leaves already. I realize >that they are deciduous but isn't it a bit early, and warm, >for them to do that in Arizona? Or are mine ill? I haven't >noticed any unusual pests or fungus' about them. Just >dropping their leaves and looking bad. Maybe they need >more watering? Please, help and advise? > > ~Rachel~ > Better Dogs, Goats 'n Gardens > (of White O'Mornin' Farm) > Arizona Zone - 13 > We may not know what the future > holds but, we can trust the one who > holds the future! >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Linda Drew" >To: ; >Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2002 4:25 PM >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] grapes > > > > Here in Tucson we grow black beauty, flame and Thompson's seedless > > very successfully. > > > > Thompson, Flame, BlackMonukka and Perlette were listed as good for table > > grapes and raisin-making. Cardinal and Exotic were suggested > > for table or jelly. Concord can do well. > > > > > > Here is aresponse to an earlier question: > > > > We have a publication called Backyard Grapes which you can order from >the > > Cooperative Extension service. The publication is number MC 59 and you >can > > view information on ordering it at: > > http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm > > Some branches of the library have a binder containing our publications. >If > > you choose to check there, ask the librarian for binder 635 General > > Reference. The title is Horticulture Publications. > > > > Maricopa County Cooperative Extension > > 4341 E. Broadway Road > > Phoenix, AZ 85040 > > (602) 470-8086 ext. 301 > > 8:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. > > Monday through Friday > > > > --------------- > > > > Some additional information I found in the book Desert Gardening, by >George > > Brookbank is that when you plant your grape, you should dig a big hole >at > > least 2 feet square x 2 feet deep. Get through any caliche. Then >backfill > > with soil mixed > > with compost or steer manure, ammonium phosphate and sulphur. He says >1-1/2 > > cubic feet of compost or steer manure, 2 lbs of sulphur and 1/2 lb of > > ammonium phosphate. This book has quite a bit of information of >growing > > grapes. You might want > > to take a look at a copy. > > > > Sue Bass > > Master Gardener > > ----------- > > Grapes grow very well here in souther Arizona. They are easy to start > > from cuttings in January. I'm layering them into 5 gallon pots now ~ > > cuttings are difficult except in the winter. George Brookbanks "Desert > > Gardening" lists varieties that do well in Tuscon. > > My experience is only with Thompson, Flame and Ruby Seedless here > > near Phoenix. You want to grow them enough away from any structure so > > that you can walk around them without touching them. The grape leaf > > skeletonizer can be a big problem; it's fuzz is very irritating to my > > skin; however, the birds have cleaned them up without my having to do a > > thing to control them at all. My plants are inside a cage which can be > > bird proof during grape production. > > Grapes provide wonderful shade and an evaporative cooler effect > > for strawberries, however, grapes need to have water withheld in the >fall > > to help them become dormant just exactly when strawberries are making > > runners and gathering strength for next spring's crop. A better > > companion plant for grapes is asparagus. Grapes make too much shade to > > be anywhere except north or west of vegetables. Since they are fairly > > permanent, you need to plan for future garden efforts before planting > > them. > > I prefer Flame and Ruby because Thompson needs to have 10 buds > > left after pruning in order to make grapes.....this is called "cane > > pruning" rather than spur pruning which can be done with Flame and Ruby. > > The spur pruning is easier for me. Good luck. > > > > Dawn Kazmer > > ------------ > > > > > > Linda Drew > > Master Gardener > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >From: meljoyceevans@aol.com > > >To: > > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > >Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 15:22:04 -0700 (MST) > > > > > >I am considering planting a grape vine and would appreciate guidance on >the > > >best for eating, when and where to plant and plant care. I live in the > > >Chandler area. Thank you very much. > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus From gizmoaz@cox.net Fri Nov 15 17:08:42 2002 From: gizmoaz@cox.net (gizmoaz@cox.net) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 12:08:42 -0500 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roses and annuals Message-ID: <20021115170844.ZSVK2201.fed1mtao03.cox.net@smtp.west.cox.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=____1037380122433_PH2X4H2JUP Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Barbara, It could be unusual. Depends on the rose. If it is a once a year bloomer, I would not be surprised, but if a repeat bloomer I would be surprised. Do you remember the name of the rose? - Chat with you later... ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 *** Check out all the new Garden Pics from around the world - "My Friends Gardens" *** http://www.GardenersCorner.com Whatever you delete today, you desperately need tomorrow > > From: "Barbara Marcus" > Date: 2002/11/14 Thu PM 11:55:23 EST > To: "Arid Gardener" > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roses and annuals > > I planted a climbing rose last spring. It is growing nicely however we have seen only 1 bloom. Is this normal? Should I prune it in January and how much? I've planted annuals underneath it. I know the watewr requirements are different for roses and annuals. Should I still deep water the rose. And how much water do annuals (snaps, stock and petunias) need now? > Thank you, Barbara > > ------=____1037380122433_PH2X4H2JUP Content-Type: text/html; name="replyAll" Content-Disposition: inline; filename="replyAll"

I planted a climbing rose last spring. It is growing nicely however we have seen only 1 bloom. Is this normal? Should I prune it in January and how much? I've planted annuals underneath it. I know the watewr requirements are different for roses and annuals. Should I still deep water the rose. And how much water do annuals (snaps, stock and petunias) need now?

Thank you, Barbara

------=____1037380122433_PH2X4H2JUP-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Nov 15 20:55:18 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 20:55:18 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] transplanting Palo Verde tree Message-ID: Sherry, I have not transplanted larger trees. The age and size will certainly be a factor (small, young trees stand a better chance of surviving the shock of transplanting). You will want to move as much of the soil and rootball as you can, but even a small rootball will be very heavy. One publication said larger tree spades are probably the only satisfactory moving device currently available for moving large established trees. Stress is reduced if this transplanting is done during the cooler period of October - February. Before moving, prune back a portion (20% max) of the top branch and leaf area to maintain a better balance between the roots and top. Full recovery and regrowth will generally require from several months to a year. Water applied in a basin as large as the canopy's drip line will be helpful in reducing the transplant shock. If your interested in the advice of specialists, consult an arborist for advice (certified arborist, in "trees" section of yellow pages). Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: bennettswfskb@cs.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 22:24:03 -0700 (MST) > >There is a (probably) blue palo verde about a foot outide our front ence >toward the road that is also under the power lines. Sooner or later it >will get either cut down or butchered probably by the power company. > >What is the best way to save the tree without spending a fortune? I would >love to have the tree to the west of our house. It is our tree, just in a >bad place. How can I dig it up and transplant it successfully? > >Thank you for any help you can give. >Sherry > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail From ejph104623@aol.com Fri Nov 15 23:48:50 2002 From: ejph104623@aol.com (ejph104623@aol.com) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 16:48:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211152348.gAFNmoN09375@Ag.arizona.edu> I am new in the area and would appreciate knowing if Azalea, Hibiscus and hydranges plants(shrubs) will survive in this climate and soil. If so, should they be planted in shade, sun or partial shade. Types of fertilizer to use and how frequently. Thank you !! From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Nov 16 00:59:07 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 00:59:07 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Woodpeckers and oranges Message-ID: Two articles that may help you deal with woodpeckers: http://www.suite101.com/article.cfm/living_wildlife/29200 http://www.suite101.com/article.cfm/living_wildlife/30082 Check out our website on woodpecker management: MANAGEMENT: The most effective control measures for woodpeckers include exclusion and frightening. Exclusion. Netting and metal sheeting or hardware cloth are used for exclusion. Plastic bird netting with a 3/4-inch mesh can be placed completely over small trees or used to exclude birds from surfaces. To protect a surface, netting should be raised at least 3 inches from the surface to prevent damage through the mesh. Woodpeckers often peck at the top of walls near the roof eaves. Protect these areas by attaching the netting to the edge of the eave, angling it back, and attaching it to the wall below the damaged area. Metal sheeting or 1/4-inch hardware cloth can be secured over pecked areas to prevent further damage. The metal barrier should be painted to resemble the existing surface. Once the offending birds are gone, the holes should be permanently filled and finished so as not to attract woodpeckers in the future. Frightening Visual frightening devices, such as brightly colored plastic or Mylar strips or aluminum foil, have been effective at repelling woodpeckers. Use strips about 2-3 inches wide and 3 feet long. Tie a 6-inch string to one end of a strip. Tie the other string end 2-3 feet above the damaged area so the strips hang freely. The movement of these bright, reflective strips often frightens the birds away. Brightly colored, reflective toy windmills can also be used. Secure the windmills at the pecking site so that the vanes will move freely with any breeze. Some success at repelling woodpeckers has been achieved with life-sized, freely moving hawk silhouettes or the "Scary-Eye" balloons (balloons painted with large raptor-like eyes), especially if their positions are moved frequently. Commercial sound repellents, such as propane cannons, can be effective, at least for short periods, in agricultural crops, but are not generally acceptable in residential areas. Repeated loud noises, such as cap pistols or banging garbage can lids, may cause the woodpecker(s) to leave for good. Regardless of the control methods used, it is very important to implement controls as soon as possible. The longer the pecking or drumming continues at a particular site, the harder it will be to dissuade that behavior. WHAT DOESN'T WORK Commercial frightening devices such as plastic snakes and owls are generally considered ineffective. Taste, odor and tactile repellents have proven to be relatively ineffective. No toxicants are registered for woodpeckers, as they are protected by federal and state laws. They can be legally killed only under permits issued by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service and the appropriate state agency (in Arizona, the Arizona Game and Fish Department). However, lethal control of woodpeckers is rarely warranted. Locating a clean water source for woodpeckers in your yard may prevent damage. Woodpeckers will also choose to feed from hummingbird feeders if they are available. They may then leave your citrus alone, but no guarantees! Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Mark Mittelstaedt" >To: >Subject: Woodpeckers and oranges >Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 17:31:48 -0700 > >For some reason, this year I have a veritable plague of flickers ( pileated >woodpeckers ) pecking holes in my nascent navel oranges, and they are >getting a lot of them. Has anyone out there had any luck with anything that >keeps them away. If not, I'll have to start terminating them, and I'm >reluctant to do so, but I'm not going to cede my crop to the little >*&^%^$%%#^s. Thanks ! _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus From kieferguthrie@compuserve.com Sat Nov 16 01:33:26 2002 From: kieferguthrie@compuserve.com (kieferguthrie@compuserve.com) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 18:33:26 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211160133.gAG1XQN20545@Ag.arizona.edu> Like many here in Cave Creek, our bursage is looking pretty sad right now. After last summer's drought and wildfire scare, I want to remove dead brush near the house -- but hesitate to take out what might still be viable. Even after the recent rain, most of our bursage plants have just a few leaves, if any, with mostly dry branches. What's your advice on how severely to prune them back? Will they regenerate if the roots are OK? They aren't on our drip system but in the past have never looked quite so dry and dead... From jake-enterprises@att.net Sat Nov 16 03:04:26 2002 From: jake-enterprises@att.net (jake-enterprises@att.net) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 20:04:26 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211160304.gAG34QN00386@Ag.arizona.edu> I have been having trouble with my fruit trees. Have talked with several nurseries who told me they thought that it was my watering method. I have since change my cycle to their recommendations but the trees still seem to be struggling. I have lost one tree completely, one tree lost 90% of its leaves in about a week. Some leaves have come back approx. 50%. I now have one other tree starting to lose its leaves. They simply dry up and fall off. About 25% of the tree is effect now but seem to be looking worse each day. I have been fertilizing on the recommended schedule. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. I fear that I will lose all six of the trees. They are approx.10 to 15 years old. Thanks, From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Nov 16 12:31:42 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 12:31:42 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] bougainvillea care Message-ID: Hi, Terri Here are some guidelines for growing bougainvillea indoors: at least four hours of direct sunlight every day normal room temperature is fine winter is the normal rest period; keep cooler but not below 50F water moderately -- moisten the soil thoroughly and then allow the top two-thirds to dry out between waterings; drastically reduce watering during rest period (winter), just kept from drying out during the winter rest apply light (1/2-strength) fertilizer in the spring Linda (p.s. -- the heat lamp is not needed) >From: Terri Smith >To: Linda Drew >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] bouganvillea care >Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 21:59:32 -0800 (PST) > > >Thank you for your response. There is not much I can do about the light it >gets inside, unfortunately. However, I do have a heat lamp that we used >when my son had an Iguana. Would it help to put the plant under this light >for a few hours a day? And how dry should I let it get? Is there any time >I should fertilize? >The advice I received from your web site and one other seems to be working >ok, it is still sending out shoots, but the leaves have all fallen off! My >poor bald plant! >Your advice will be appreciated and followed. >Thanks again for your help. > Linda Drew wrote: >Bougainvillea likes full sun, and it does not require a lot of >water and practically no fertilizer. If the roots are disturbed >when it is planted it may never recover and grow. > >Since you are growing yours indoors, be sure it has ample >bright light. Cut back on the watering and stop fertilizing. >It will freeze back in cold weather but usually regrows >as soon as warm weather returns. > >Linda Drew >Master Gardener > > > > >From: Terri Smith > >To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] bouganvilla care > >Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 16:29:55 -0800 (PST) > > > > > >I just purchased a potted plant from the local hardware store, and it >isn't > >doing very well. I have been watering it regularly, and have been giving > >it food, and there is new growth on the ends of the branches. I live in > >Palmdale, CA, which is in the desert. I understand that they like dry > >climates, but winter is coming on, and it is getting very cold overnight. > >Because of this, I keep it inside, but the leaves have paled, and they >are > >falling off like hair! Help! Soon, or we might be discussing a dead > >plant! > > > >Thanks > > > > > > > > > >Terri > > > > > >--------------------------------- > >Do you Yahoo!? > >U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive medley & videos from Greatest Hits CD > > >_________________________________________________________________ >The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE* >http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail > > >Terri > > >--------------------------------- >Do you Yahoo!? >Yahoo! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your site _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From stevenj_edwards@hotmail.com Sat Nov 16 16:28:21 2002 From: stevenj_edwards@hotmail.com (Steven Edwards) Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 09:28:21 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Science Fair on Photosynthesis Message-ID: Hello, my name is Steven Edwards, in 7th grade, and I�m doing a Science Fair Project for school. It�s on the subject of photosynthesis. I�m seeing if grass can grow when their light source is restricted and cut off. I will give them a pre-measured amount of a dissolved sugar solution (table sugar?) from a watering can. I�m hoping that the grass can use active transport to take in the sugar-water, and use the sugar for food. I�m comparing the square of grass that I�m experimenting on with another square that is also covered. This other square gets the same amount of water as the other one, but doesn�t receive the sugar. I�m also using 4 other squares of grass. 2 of them are covered with a mesh, which blocks about half of the sunlight. One on these gets the sugar and the other doesn�t. The final 2 aren�t covered up at all, and like the others, only one gets the sugar solution. All of the squares get the same amount of water; and for the 3, the same amount of sugar. All of the grass squares are the same size and are all a deep green color. These are a few of my questions, if you could e-mail me back, with your answer to my questions, I would be very appreciative: 1. I was wondering what you thought of this project and if it might work. If not, why. 2. What kind of sugar do you suggest that I use? 3. How much sugar should I use for every square of grass, each square of grass is 1ft x 1ft. If it matters, the grass is called Bermuda grass. _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From whickert@mindspring.com Sat Nov 16 19:21:55 2002 From: whickert@mindspring.com (Joyce Wickert) Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 11:21:55 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] picking grapefruit - process Message-ID: Do you pull grapefruit off the tree once it is solid yellow and large? Or do you clip the stem? Joyce A.L. Wickert From mary.c.steele@stanfordalumni.org Sat Nov 16 23:43:16 2002 From: mary.c.steele@stanfordalumni.org (Mary Steele) Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 15:43:16 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ornamental grasses for Mesa, AZ Message-ID: <200211162343.gAGNhkN25845@Ag.arizona.edu> Hi My mother lives in Mesa, AZ and would like some landscape plants in her garden which is 99% crushed rock at present. She has dismissed most of my suggestions as "too messy"," "too much work," etc. (She is over 80). My most recent suggestion was some type(s) of native grasses, preferably of different heights, different hues, and not too terribly invasive. Can you suggest a possible plant palette for her?? Thank you in advance. Mary Steele (Master Gardener in Orange County, CA) ____________________________________________________________________ From grogers@farnsworthhomes.com Sun Nov 17 03:06:52 2002 From: grogers@farnsworthhomes.com (grogers@farnsworthhomes.com) Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 20:06:52 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211170306.gAH36qN13104@Ag.arizona.edu> In pinal county near casa grande I would like to plant a few pecan trees. I wish to plant 30 or more trees, with the intention of selling the pecans to people wanting organically produced food. Some of the questions I have are: 1. What is a good variety to plant 2. What are sources and prices of nursery stock 3. How much water is required per year per tree 4. How long does it take for trees to start production 5. What should the spacing between trees be 6. What is a good book or publication that would help with this project thanks for your help Glen From dshelton@vei.net Sun Nov 17 15:59:56 2002 From: dshelton@vei.net (dshelton@vei.net) Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 08:59:56 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211171559.gAHFxqN15311@Ag.arizona.edu> my catus has bloomed,counted 133 blooms, there are more. but the buds are starting to fall off.. What can I do????????? Thanks From hokon1@cox.net Sun Nov 17 17:44:59 2002 From: hokon1@cox.net (hokon1@cox.net) Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 10:44:59 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211171744.gAHHixN19708@Ag.arizona.edu> what is causing my orange tree leaves on some branchs to curl in the tree is growing great an is 3 years old i water this time of the year every 2 weeks i use a 2f rod to check water depth From lindasacredheart57santoro@att.net Sun Nov 17 21:04:02 2002 From: lindasacredheart57santoro@att.net (Linda Santoro) Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 14:04:02 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Zinnia's and dry powdery something Message-ID: <3DD80442.67161161@att.net> Good afternoon, I planted some zinnia's from seed in our planters the second week in August. They are gorgeous but have a white powdery substance on the leaves, etc. It washes off but... Can you tell me what this might be and how to treat it? The flowers are in a planter around the verandah. Linda Santoro 480-998-5241 From vmuller361@netscape.net Mon Nov 18 01:08:59 2002 From: vmuller361@netscape.net (vmuller361@netscape.net) Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 18:08:59 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211180108.gAI18xN25990@Ag.arizona.edu> When is the best time to plant a jacarunda tree? Is this a good time or should we wait until spring? From carol.flores@asu.edu Sat Nov 16 04:46:02 2002 From: carol.flores@asu.edu (carol.flores@asu.edu) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 21:46:02 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211160446.gAG4k2N08243@Ag.arizona.edu> My husband and I created a very large raised area in our back yard. It is walled in (low wall, 1.5 ft high) and filled with dirt. We have stairs leading up, grass and planters on top. Recently, our neighbor informed us of water leakage thru our shared masonry wall. We want to seal the wall. What can we use that won't be extraordinarily toxic to our plants and to the environment in general? Should we use tar, build a 2nd reinforcing wall, etc? Thank you! From umiller@azdps.com Mon Nov 18 16:15:14 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 09:15:14 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] picking grapefruit - process In-Reply-To: Message-ID: You can pull it off the tree. Most of the time they come off easily without much tugging. If the fruit just doesn't want to budge, you can twist it while holding the stem and it will come off. No need to clip. You can start picking grapefruit anytime between now and next summer. The longer on the tree, the sweeter. One of my fruits fell off last week and I ate it, but it was VERY tart. I normally start picking in December and keep doing that until they're all gone - usually sometime in April. Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Joyce Wickert Sent: Saturday, November 16, 2002 12:22 PM To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] picking grapefruit - process Do you pull grapefruit off the tree once it is solid yellow and large? Or do you clip the stem? Joyce A.L. Wickert _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From umiller@azdps.com Mon Nov 18 16:18:46 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 09:18:46 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200211171744.gAHHixN19708@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Probably thrips - small and difficult to see insects. Give the leaves a strong shot of water and try to hose them off. They're not dangerous but it's still good to get rid of them. Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of hokon1@cox.net Sent: Sunday, November 17, 2002 10:45 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page what is causing my orange tree leaves on some branchs to curl in the tree is growing great an is 3 years old i water this time of the year every 2 weeks i use a 2f rod to check water depth _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From clewis26@cox.net Mon Nov 18 20:17:04 2002 From: clewis26@cox.net (clewis26@cox.net) Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 13:17:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211182017.gAIKH4N10168@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like to know where I can get a LeConte, Floridahome, and/or Hood pear tree. These are low chill variety according to my search. Other varieties for Maricopa County?? From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Mon Nov 18 22:03:49 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 15:03:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Jacaranda, planting time Message-ID: <002c01c28f4e$61279400$8d04e043@ibmbna6040> It is best to wait until the danger of frost is past to plant a Jacaranda tree. Should we get a heavy frost it could damage or kill a young tree. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: vmuller361@netscape.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, November 18, 2002 9:23 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >When is the best time to plant a jacarunda tree? Is this a good time or should we wait until spring? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Mon Nov 18 22:17:51 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 15:17:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fruit tree leaves falling off. Message-ID: <003701c28f50$56ee2b00$8d04e043@ibmbna6040> The problem could be caused by disease or insects but I suspect that your fruit trees have not been watered adequately. If you live in the low desert most fruit trees ( you didn't say what they are ) should be deep watered to a depth of three feet at about every 7 days during the summer. Check out these sites for info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://www.amwua.org/xscp-wateringschedules.htm http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From: jake-enterprises@att.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, November 18, 2002 9:22 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I have been having trouble with my fruit trees. Have talked with several nurseries who told me they thought that it was my watering method. I have since change my cycle to their recommendations but the trees still seem to be struggling. I have lost one tree completely, one tree lost 90% of its leaves in about a week. Some leaves have come back approx. 50%. I now have one other tree starting to lose its leaves. They simply dry up and fall off. About 25% of the tree is effect now but seem to be looking worse each day. I have been fertilizing on the recommended schedule. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. I fear that I will lose all six of the trees. They are approx.10 to 15 years old. > >Thanks, > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Mon Nov 18 22:53:24 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 15:53:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Science Fair on Photosynthesis Message-ID: <003c01c28f55$4dfccb00$8d04e043@ibmbna6040> Hi Steven Bermuda grass is a warm season grass which only grows and stays green approximately April through October, the remainder of the season the bermuda grass becomes dormant. The principle ingredient that causes bermuda to grow and to florish is nitrogen. I don't think that sugar would be of any benefit except to attract the insects. Further bermuda will not grow in deep shade and will languish in partial shade. If you do the project during the winter I would suggest using rye grass which will grow well during cold weather and will handle partial shade. Should you use the rye the best source of nitrogen to use during cold weather is amonium nitrate. During the warm season amonium sulfate or urea are good sources of nitrogen. Perhaps easier to use on a small project would be a water soluble fertilizer such as Miracle Grow if you can find one with a 20/20/20 analysis which means 20% each of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Mix according to package directions and apply one to two quarts every two weeks. Good luck with your project. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: Steven Edwards Date: Monday, November 18, 2002 9:23 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Science Fair on Photosynthesis > Hello, my name is Steven Edwards, in 7th grade, and I�m doing a Science >Fair Project for school. It�s on the subject of photosynthesis. I�m seeing >if grass can grow when their light source is restricted and cut off. I will >give them a pre-measured amount of a dissolved sugar solution (table sugar?) >from a watering can. I�m hoping that the grass can use active transport to >take in the sugar-water, and use the sugar for food. I�m comparing the >square of grass that I�m experimenting on with another square that is also >covered. This other square gets the same amount of water as the other one, >but doesn�t receive the sugar. I�m also using 4 other squares of grass. 2 of >them are covered with a mesh, which blocks about half of the sunlight. One >on these gets the sugar and the other doesn�t. The final 2 aren�t covered up >at all, and like the others, only one gets the sugar solution. All of the >squares get the same amount of water; and for the 3, the same amount of >sugar. All of the grass squares are the same size and are all a deep green >color. > > These are a few of my questions, if you could e-mail me back, with your >answer to my questions, I would be very appreciative: > >1. I was wondering what you thought of this project and if it might >work. If not, why. > >2. What kind of sugar do you suggest that I use? > >3. How much sugar should I use for every square of grass, each square of >grass is 1ft x 1ft. If it matters, the grass is called Bermuda grass. > > > > > > >_________________________________________________________________ >The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE* >http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu Mon Nov 18 22:50:26 2002 From: cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu (Carol Noyes) Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 15:50:26 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Practical tree climbing techniques Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20021118151646.00ab6460@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_25825564==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Practical Tree Climbing Techniques and the Risk of Managing Trees Presented in English & Spanish December 13, 2002 7:30 AM - 5:00 PM Washington Adult Center & Park 2240 B. Citrus Avenue Phoenix, AZ 85015 INSTRUCTORS: Mark Chisolm: Mark is a third generation arbors who works for the family business, the Aspen Tree Expert Co., Inc. He has been climbing trees since the age of twelve. Mark speaks on such topics as advanced climbing an rigging techniques, crane removals, E.H.A.P. aerial rescue, cabling and bracing, competitive climbing, proper pruning and worker motivation. He is a repeat demonstrator at such tradeshows as TCI Expo and ISA Expo as well as lecturing at both Rutgers University and Hofstra University. One of his most satisfying duties is to perform on the job training for professionals around the globe. Mark is also a published author, with articles appearing in both "Tree Care Industry" and "Arbors News." Mark's credentials include: New Jersey Certified Tree Expert #348, ISA Certified Arbors, and Qualified Line Clearance Arbors. Robert Phillips: My Grandfather Roger F. Sohner began his arboricultural career over eighty years ago, so here I am. I have been working with trees for over thirty years, blending my knowledge of yesterday with todays technology. I have contributed ideas to both a column in Arbor Age Magazine and Tree Care Industry Magazine. The articles relate to non-injuries low impact tree climbing techniques, rigging for removal - and the equipment involved in performing such job tasks. I attended the aboriculture class at the University Cal Poly, San Luis Obispo, California. I have competed in the Tree Trimmers Jamborees for over four decades. I assisted in the production of seven videos with ISA, NAA and Arbor Master Training and provided information for two work books relating to basic and technical rigging for removal and tree climbing techniques. I am president-elect of the WCISA. SPANISH INSTRUCTORS: Margarito Garibo: Worked in Tree Care industry for 8 1/2 years. Certified Treeworker #WC 1092. Translations for National Arbors Association TCI Expo since 1998, working along side of Mark Chisolm and Robert Phillips. Assisted in written translation ISA Certified Treeworker manual, attended many ISA Chapter meetings & Jamborees for seminar translations. Educational presenter for Arizona Community Tree Council. Jeremy Spillsbury: Owner of Tree Doctors, Inc., Mesa, AZ. Working in Tree care business since 1993. Certified Arbors #WC4447, Treeworker #878. Educational presenter for Arizona Community Tree Council and Mesa Community College. Dan Condon: In 1980 Dan accepted the challenge as City Arbors for Santa Barbara, CA. He made a commitment to serve teh greater public good by caring for and maintaining the gorgeous and rare variety of trees which make Santa Barbara beautiful. Dan's personal mission was to uphold the high standards of the City Parks and Street Tree program. Dan fostered the evolution of the program for over 22 years. As a custodian of the urban forest, he and his forestry crew planted trees, nursed sick and dying trees, replaced trees that were inappropriate for their locations and defended and cared for older trees, which in many other cities would have been cut down. Much of Dan's work was done after hours and on weekends providing uncommon accessibility to the community. Dan's wisdom, understanding and appreciation for the species and age diversity of Santa Barbara's trees are unmatched. Registration: Professional Affiliations Membership $30 ACTC, ANA, ALCA, ISA, NAA, Master Gardeners Postmarked before December 9, 2002 Non-Members & at the door $35 CEU: Certified Tree Worker - 6 CEUs Certified Arbors - 6 CEUs Arizona Community Tree Council 2047 B. Elliot Road Chandler, AZ 85224 480-899-9831 or 602-909-9190 --=====================_25825564==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

Practical Tree Climbing Techniques and the Risk of Managing Trees
Presented in English & Spanish

December 13, 2002
7:30 AM - 5:00 PM
Washington Adult Center & Park
2240 B. Citrus Avenue
Phoenix, AZ 85015

INSTRUCTORS:

Mark Chisolm: Mark is a third generation arbors who works for the family business, the Aspen Tree Expert Co., Inc. He has been climbing trees since the age of twelve. Mark speaks on such topics as advanced climbing an rigging techniques, crane removals, E.H.A.P. aerial rescue, cabling and bracing, competitive climbing, proper pruning and worker motivation. He is a repeat demonstrator at such tradeshows as TCI Expo and ISA Expo as well as lecturing at both Rutgers University and Hofstra University. One of his most satisfying duties is to perform on the job training for professionals around the globe. Mark is also a published author, with articles appearing in both "Tree Care Industry" and "Arbors News." Mark's credentials include: New Jersey Certified Tree Expert #348, ISA Certified Arbors, and Qualified Line Clearance Arbors.

Robert Phillips: My Grandfather Roger F. Sohner began his arboricultural career over eighty years ago, so here I am. I have been working with trees for over thirty years, blending my knowledge of yesterday with todays technology. I have contributed ideas to both a column in Arbor Age Magazine and Tree Care Industry Magazine. The articles relate to non-injuries low impact tree climbing techniques, rigging for removal - and the equipment involved in performing such job tasks. I attended the aboriculture class at the University Cal Poly, San Luis Obispo, California. I have competed in the Tree Trimmers Jamborees for over four decades. I assisted in the production of seven videos with ISA, NAA and Arbor Master Training and provided information for two work books relating to basic and technical rigging for removal and tree climbing techniques. I am president-elect of the WCISA.

SPANISH INSTRUCTORS:

Margarito Garibo: Worked in Tree Care industry for 8 1/2 years. Certified Treeworker #WC 1092. Translations for National Arbors Association TCI Expo since 1998, working along side of Mark Chisolm and Robert Phillips. Assisted in written translation ISA Certified Treeworker manual, attended many ISA Chapter meetings & Jamborees for seminar translations. Educational presenter for Arizona Community Tree Council.

Jeremy Spillsbury: Owner of Tree Doctors, Inc., Mesa, AZ. Working in Tree care business since 1993. Certified Arbors #WC4447, Treeworker #878. Educational presenter for Arizona Community Tree Council and Mesa Community College.

Dan Condon: In 1980 Dan accepted the challenge as City Arbors for Santa Barbara, CA. He made a commitment to serve teh greater public good by caring for and maintaining the gorgeous and rare variety of trees which make Santa Barbara beautiful. Dan's personal mission was to uphold the high standards of the City Parks and Street Tree program. Dan fostered the evolution of the program for over 22 years. As a custodian of the urban forest, he and his forestry crew planted trees, nursed sick and dying trees, replaced trees that were inappropriate for their locations and defended and cared for older trees, which in many other cities would have been cut down. Much of Dan's work was done after hours and on weekends providing uncommon accessibility to the community. Dan's wisdom, understanding and appreciation for the species and age diversity of Santa Barbara's trees are unmatched.

Registration:
Professional Affiliations Membership

$30
ACTC, ANA, ALCA, ISA, NAA, Master Gardeners
Postmarked before December 9, 2002

Non-Members & at the door

$35

CEU:

Certified Tree Worker - 6 CEUs
Certified Arbors - 6 CEUs

Arizona Community Tree Council
2047 B. Elliot Road
Chandler, AZ 85224
480-899-9831 or 602-909-9190 --=====================_25825564==_.ALT-- From patricea@att.net Mon Nov 18 23:44:04 2002 From: patricea@att.net (patricea@att.net) Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 16:44:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211182344.gAINi4N26289@Ag.arizona.edu> We are moving (10 minutes away) and I want to take cuttings of several of my roses and our lemon tree. My gardening books are packed away and I can't remember the procedures. Help please! From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Tue Nov 19 02:26:17 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 19:26:17 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cuttings Message-ID: <002501c28f73$0b57a720$d204e043@ibmbna6040> The Master Gardener Manual has a chapter on Plant Propagation describes in detail how to make cuttings and can be found on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: patricea@att.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, November 18, 2002 4:57 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >We are moving (10 minutes away) and I want to take cuttings of several of my roses and our lemon tree. My gardening books are packed away and I can't remember the procedures. Help please! > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From gypsy9@hotmail.com Tue Nov 19 03:07:34 2002 From: gypsy9@hotmail.com (Jessica Nelson) Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 19:07:34 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] help! Message-ID: Help! My Zebra plant (Aphelandra squarrosa) is dying! It is located indoors, near a window. It receives indirect sunlight for a few hours every morning. I have been keeping the soil moist (watering every other or every 2 days), but it dries out extremely quickly. The problem is that it drops its leaves with the slightest bump. The leaves are also completely drying out and crumbling from the tip inwards. Do you think that it is a problem with the soil? Should I place the whole pot in a dish of water to keep it moist? How much sunlight is necessary? I would appreciate any suggestions... thanks! jessica _________________________________________________________________ Tired of spam? Get advanced junk mail protection with MSN 8. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com Tue Nov 19 15:55:34 2002 From: Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com (Zelhart Alan-rpcs30) Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 08:55:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cuttings Message-ID: <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B993070405175A@az33exm25.corp.mot.com> Also, if you would like to see a photo illustrated way to start rose cuttings. Check out this link: http://www.rdrop.com/~paul/hulse.html I have used this method several times with great success. -- Chat with you later... ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 *** Check out all the new Garden Pics from around the world - "My Friends Gardens" *** http://www.GardenersCorner.com Incontinence Hotline, please hold. -----Original Message----- From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net [mailto:rodmmcq6@highstream.net] Sent: Monday, November 18, 2002 7:26 PM To: patricea@att.net Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cuttings The Master Gardener Manual has a chapter on Plant Propagation describes in detail how to make cuttings and can be found on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: patricea@att.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, November 18, 2002 4:57 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >We are moving (10 minutes away) and I want to take cuttings of several of my roses and our lemon tree. My gardening books are packed away and I can't remember the procedures. Help please! > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From kurt_pager@apsc.com Tue Nov 19 21:28:13 2002 From: kurt_pager@apsc.com (kurt_pager@apsc.com) Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 14:28:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211192128.gAJLSDN11256@Ag.arizona.edu> I live in the Groves area of East Mesa. I have 25 orange & grape fruit trees that are probably 30 years plus in age. They are flood irrigated. Old trees yes. The grape fruit have dead areas caused by sun burn. The trunks have large pieces of bark that is missing or coming off. I have painted the trunks over the rough areas. Also the grape fruits have areas were sap is comming out in large quantities. The orange trees are very dense in branches but not very leafy. Is this all normal for trees this old. We love these trees, how can we help them extend there lives? From ASUsped@aol.com Wed Nov 20 04:39:23 2002 From: ASUsped@aol.com (ASUsped@aol.com) Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 23:39:23 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] rose food for other plants Message-ID: <97.30fe4a10.2b0c6bfb@aol.com> Hello everyone, I just bought Arizona Best rose food (9 - 11 - 3 ), and has 9 . 00% Ammoniacal Nitrogen, 11.00% phosphoric acid, soluble potash 3.00%, sulfur 13.00%, iron 5.00%, zinc 1.00%, Magnesium 1.00%, calcium 1.5% and I also bought Alaska fish fertilizer (fish emulsion) 5 -1 -1. I bought these fertilizers for my roses and I was wondering if I could use them for my other plants: the Arabian Jasmine, Carolina Jasmine, lantanas and sage. I don't mind buying other kind of fertilizers but I would to know your opinion before I do that..........Mike From HRB85373@aol.com Wed Nov 20 20:44:26 2002 From: HRB85373@aol.com (HRB85373@aol.com) Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 13:44:26 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211202044.gAKKiQN18900@Ag.arizona.edu> I have some very nice pyracantha Santa Cruz shrubs. 3 & 4 years ago they were filled with nice red berries the birds loved. Last year they seemed to start the same, but then they all dried up before the birds got to them. This year they are doing the same. The berries seem to split, red on one side, the other side blackish & drying up. The plants themselves look good & healthy, no sign of insects or disease. Anyone know what the problem is and the cure? Many thanks! From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Wed Nov 20 21:36:51 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 14:36:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] rose food for other plants Message-ID: <000801c290dc$f12f29c0$cf31db43@ibmbna6040> Mike, The rose fertilizer will work fine for your other plants and the roses will love the fish emulsion. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: ASUsped@aol.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Wednesday, November 20, 2002 12:38 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] rose food for other plants > > Hello everyone, > > I just bought Arizona Best rose food (9 - 11 - 3 ), and has 9 . 00% >Ammoniacal Nitrogen, 11.00% phosphoric acid, soluble potash 3.00%, sulfur >13.00%, iron 5.00%, zinc 1.00%, Magnesium 1.00%, calcium 1.5% and I also >bought Alaska fish fertilizer (fish emulsion) 5 -1 -1. > > I bought these fertilizers for my roses and I was wondering if I >could use them for my other plants: the Arabian Jasmine, Carolina Jasmine, >lantanas and sage. > > I don't mind buying other kind of fertilizers but I would to know your >opinion before I do that..........Mike >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Nov 20 22:08:38 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 22:08:38 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] pyracantha, berries drying up Message-ID: The symptoms you describe could be scab, a fungal infection, that appears as scabby, sunken spots on the berries. The fruit may crack or shrivel and drop. Remove and dispose of fallen leaves in the fall. Avoid overhead sprinkling that splashes spores onto the plant. Water early in the day. Provide plants with proper cultural care. linda Drew Master Gardener >From: HRB85373@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 13:44:26 -0700 (MST) > >I have some very nice pyracantha Santa Cruz shrubs. 3 & 4 years ago they >were filled with nice red berries the birds loved. Last year they seemed >to start the same, but then they all dried up before the birds got to them. > This year they are doing the same. The berries seem to split, red on one >side, the other side blackish & drying up. The plants themselves look >good & healthy, no sign of insects or disease. Anyone know what the >problem is and the cure? Many thanks! > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail From parish@phxhs.k12.az.us Wed Nov 20 22:20:45 2002 From: parish@phxhs.k12.az.us (parish@phxhs.k12.az.us) Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 15:20:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211202220.gAKMKjN10013@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a ficus niteda planted in a circle in the middle of a concrete patio. It started as a 24 inch box plant eight years and is big and beautiful now. However, during the warm months, it continually loses large numbers of leaves. Some turn dark brown around the outer edges, some turn yellow and some fall while still green. I have followed the advise of several people, adjusting the watering schedule up and down to no avail. This time of year, there is no problem. Is there anything I can do during the warm months? From robert460@sympatico.ca Wed Nov 20 21:55:52 2002 From: robert460@sympatico.ca (Robert Higgins) Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 16:55:52 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Non Blooming Catus Message-ID: <3DDC04E8.00000C.98009@default> --------------Boundary-00=_49AW7TH0000000000000 Content-Type: Multipart/Alternative; boundary="------------Boundary-00=_79AW24L0000000000000" --------------Boundary-00=_79AW24L0000000000000 Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hello my name is Wendy and I was hoping to get some secrets to getting my= christmas catus to bloom. I won it at a party 2 years ago and it is goo= d health. Although it has never bloomed for me until this past month if= you call this blooming... I only have one flower now and maybe two more = to come. What is the secret to blossoms? Please help me as I was so ex= cited when the one flower came out. --------------Boundary-00=_79AW24L0000000000000 Content-Type: Text/HTML; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable =0D =0A

Hello my name is Wendy and I was hoping to get some secrets to= =20 getting my christmas catus to bloom. I won it at a party 2 ye= ars ago=20 and it is good health. Although it has never bloomed for = ; me=20 until this past month if you call this blooming... I only have one = flower=20 now and maybe two more to come. What is the secret to=20 blossoms? Please help me as I was so excited when the one flo= wer=20 came out.

=09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09

____________________________________________________
IncrediMail - Email has finally evolved -=20 Click=20 Here

--------------Boundary-00=_79AW24L0000000000000-- --------------Boundary-00=_49AW7TH0000000000000 Content-Type: image/gif Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 Content-ID: <523CDF36-FCA6-11D6-A428-0090D041C3D2> R0lGODlhFAAPALMIAP9gAM9gAM8vAM9gL/+QL5AvAGAvAP9gL////wAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAACH/C05FVFNDQVBFMi4wAwEAAAAh+QQJFAAIACwAAAAAFAAPAAAEVRDJSaudJuudrxlEKI6B URlCUYyjKpgYAKSgOBSCDEuGDKgrAtC3Q/R+hkPJEDgYCjpKr5A8WK9OaPFZwHoPqm3366VKyeRt E30tVVRscMHDqV/u+AgAIfkEBWQACAAsAAAAABQADwAABBIQyUmrvTjrzbv/YCiOZGmeaAQAIfkE CRQACAAsAgABABAADQAABEoQIUOrpXIOwrsPxiQUheeRAgUA49YNhbCqK1kS9grQhXGAhsDBUJgZ AL2Dcqkk7ogFpvRAokSn0p4PO6UIuUsQggSmFjKXdAgRAQAh+QQFCgAIACwAAAAAFAAPAAAEEhDJ Sau9OOvNu/9gKI5kaZ5oBAAh+QQJFAAIACwCAAEAEAANAAAEShAhQ6ulcg7Cuw/GJBSF55ECBQDj 1g2FsKorWRL2CtCFcYCGwMFQmBkAvYNyqSTuiAWm9ECiRKfSng87pQi5SxCCBKYWMpd0CBEBACH5 BAVkAAgALAAAAAAUAA8AAAQSEMlJq7046827/2AojmRpnmgEADs= --------------Boundary-00=_49AW7TH0000000000000-- From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Wed Nov 20 22:47:37 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 15:47:37 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Junipers dying Message-ID: <002b01c290e6$e824d140$cf31db43@ibmbna6040> Lynne, I was unable to find a juniper called Blue Tip even though I have a lising of nearly 100 different varieties. Could it be a Blue Carpet ( Juniperus horizontalis Wiltonii ) ? Was the juniper a ground cover, a shrub or a tree ? I can give you a few of the things that could cause problems. Most junipers planted in the low desert will survive better if planted where they get afternoon shade. Junipers are susceptable to spider mites which if not exterminated could cause their death. Either over or underwatering could cause problems, the soil should be allowed to dry out between waterings. I like the natal plum for a broad leaf evergreen shrub even though it is frost tender. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: lynne.guerrette@intel.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Tuesday, November 12, 2002 4:24 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I planted 4 blue-tip junipers (from 1-gallon pots) last January, watered them according to the nursery's instructions, and saw them grow close to a foot by July. But then they began getting brown from the bottom up, and 3 out of four are now completely dried up despite continued watering. Did they just bake in the summer sun? I plan to replace the dead trees, but if the junipers were victims of our summer sun, what is an evergreen that can tolerate full exposure? I like the non-messiness of evergreens, but would consider other varieties that don't shed. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From DPSilva2@aol.com Thu Nov 21 00:42:45 2002 From: DPSilva2@aol.com (DPSilva2@aol.com) Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 19:42:45 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Drying Goards Message-ID: <150.179cce65.2b0d8605@aol.com> I want to know how to dry goards. I have several but one is molded . How do I dry them. Thank you Don From imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net Thu Nov 21 02:49:00 2002 From: imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 19:49:00 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Non Blooming Catus References: <3DDC04E8.00000C.98009@default> Message-ID: <001a01c2910a$a7a564d0$2c52530c@delljor9501> My wife keeps ours indoors in total darkness during nighttime hours and with only low indoor light in the daytime beginning about October 1. Always seems to work. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert Higgins" Hello my name is Wendy and I was hoping to get some secrets to getting my christmas catus to bloom. I won it at a party 2 years ago and it is good health. Although it has never bloomed for me until this past month if you call this blooming... I only have one flower now and maybe two more to come. What is the secret to blossoms? Please help me as I was so excited when the one flower came out. From imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net Thu Nov 21 03:03:26 2002 From: imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 20:03:26 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Junipers dying References: <002b01c290e6$e824d140$cf31db43@ibmbna6040> Message-ID: <001b01c2910a$aa197210$2c52530c@delljor9501> The Blue Point and Blue Tip junipers are cultivars of juniperus chinensis. The typical Blue Point is pyramid-shaped and is often sold in 1 or 5 gallon containers as a small live Christmas tree. I once tried transplanting one but it died during the summer. The Blue Tip is usually a pfitzer type. It is listed on the plant list on the ASU campus at http://www.fm.asu.edu/plantlist.htm under common name "Blue Tip" and in botanical Latin as Juniperus chinensis 'Hetzii', Juniperus chinensis pfitzeriana, and Juniperus chinensis pfitzeriana . Unfortunately, the hyperlinks to the their plant descriptions do not appear to be working. A foot of growth in 6 months is a lot of growth for a juniper. Like Rod suggested, it is probably a watering problem and with all that initial growth it is more likely to be too much than too little. Once established, junipers require very little water although they will tolerate normal rainfall in most of the US. Native junipers in the Pinion-Juniper life zone in AZ only receive a few more inches more per year than our low desert rainfall. Junipers are probably the best choice for a pine-like evergreen shrub for the low desert. I have grown Pfitzers in locations from full sun to full shade and with various degrees of sun and shade. I also recently removed one that outgrew its space. I don't recall watering it all the past few years. But you mentioned trees and if that is what you want you need to tell us how big it should get. We have two Grey Gleam junipers that are about 17 feet tall, quite a bit taller than the advertised 8-10 foot height. Olin ================================================== ----- Original Message ----- From: > Lynne, > I was unable to find a juniper called Blue Tip even though I have a lising > of nearly 100 different varieties. Could it be a Blue Carpet ( Juniperus > horizontalis Wiltonii ) ? Was the juniper a ground cover, a shrub or a tree > ? > I can give you a few of the things that could cause problems. Most junipers > planted in the low desert will survive better if planted where they get > afternoon shade. Junipers are susceptable to spider mites which if not > exterminated could cause their death. Either over or underwatering could > cause problems, the soil should be allowed to dry out between waterings. > I like the natal plum for a broad leaf evergreen shrub even though it is > frost tender > -----Original Message-----> From: lynne.guerrette@intel.com > >I planted 4 blue-tip junipers (from 1-gallon pots) last January, watered > them according to the nursery's instructions, and saw them grow close to a > foot by July. But then they began getting brown from the bottom up, and 3 > out of four are now completely dried up despite continued watering. Did > they just bake in the summer sun? I plan to replace the dead trees, but if > the junipers were victims of our summer sun, what is an evergreen that can > tolerate full exposure? I like the non-messiness of evergreens, but would > consider other varieties that don't shed. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Nov 21 13:19:28 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 13:19:28 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Non Blooming Cactus Message-ID: Response to an earlier question: According to Maricopa County Cooperative Extension publication MC-38: 'To keep them at their best, bright light and day temperatures of 65 to 70 degrees (55 to 65 degrees at night) is recommended. Keep the potting soil evenly moist, not wet. With proper care, they can be kept for years as indoor potted plants." When you water, make sure the root ball is thoroughly moistened, some drainage into tray to ensure leaching. In the Sunset Western Gardening Book (p. 480) there is a reference to increasing the hours of darkness to 12-14 hours during the month of November, as well as cooler night temps (50-55 degrees) to ensure bloom set during the Christmas holiday season. >From: "Robert Higgins" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Non Blooming Catus >Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 16:55:52 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time) > >Hello my name is Wendy and I was hoping to get some secrets to getting my >christmas catus to bloom. I won it at a party 2 years ago and it is good >health. Although it has never bloomed for me until this past month if you >call this blooming... I only have one flower now and maybe two more to >come. What is the secret to blossoms? Please help me as I was so excited >when the one flower came out. _________________________________________________________________ Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 From rmredfield@fastq.com Thu Nov 21 16:16:44 2002 From: rmredfield@fastq.com (rmredfield@fastq.com) Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 09:16:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211211616.gALGGhN27685@Ag.arizona.edu> What is the curent, most effective treatment for Spider Mites on conifers? From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Thu Nov 21 21:31:51 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 14:31:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ficus nitida losing leaves during summer Message-ID: <001901c291a5$692d4100$5b1d0a3f@ibmbna6040> One of the main causes of excessive leaf drop during hot weather is inadequate irrigation. The brown on the edge of the leaves indicates that the tree is not being watered deep enough to flush the salts out of the root zone. The water should penetrate to a depth of three feet throughout the entire root zone each time the tree is watered. C heck out these sites for info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://www.amwua.org/xscp-wateringschedules.htm Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: parish@phxhs.k12.az.us To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Wednesday, November 20, 2002 3:40 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I have a ficus niteda planted in a circle in the middle of a concrete patio. It started as a 24 inch box plant eight years and is big and beautiful now. However, during the warm months, it continually loses large numbers of leaves. Some turn dark brown around the outer edges, some turn yellow and some fall while still green. I have followed the advise of several people, adjusting the watering schedule up and down to no avail. This time of year, there is no problem. Is there anything I can do during the warm months? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Thu Nov 21 21:42:38 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 14:42:38 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Spider Mites, controlling Message-ID: <002201c291a6$ea6ff680$5b1d0a3f@ibmbna6040> A light infestation can usually be controlled with a strong spray of water done every two to three days when the temperatures are above 75 degrees. Otherwise a miticide such as Vendex, Pentac or Avid should be used. The Avid is systemic and does not require direct contact with the mites to kill them. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: rmredfield@fastq.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Thursday, November 21, 2002 9:27 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >What is the curent, most effective treatment for Spider Mites on conifers? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Nov 21 21:55:44 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 21:55:44 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] spider mites Message-ID: Spider Mites in the Low Desert DESCRIPTION: Tiny creatures, some less than 1/50 of an inch, most Spider Mites are too small to be seen without the aid of a microscope. They are usually oval or rounded in shape and may be yellow, red, greenish, or brownish in color. They were named Spider Mites because they produce a fine webbing between leaves, a sign of infestation. DAMAGE: They suck sap from leaves and fruit, which causes yellow spots or stippling on the leaves. Their feeding may cause deformations such as twisting and stunting of leaves as well. Other types of mites cause galls. MANAGEMENT: A mix of soap and water may be used to wash plant mites off leaves. For large plants (Italian Cypress etc.), a morning rinsing of foliage with a forceful spray of water at least weekly may help. Miticides are also available for the control of Spider Mites. >From: rmredfield@fastq.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 09:16:44 -0700 (MST) > >What is the curent, most effective treatment for Spider Mites on conifers? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From rmredfield@fastq.com Fri Nov 22 00:46:16 2002 From: rmredfield@fastq.com (Robin Redfield) Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 17:46:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Spider Mites, controlling References: <002201c291a6$ea6ff680$5b1d0a3f@ibmbna6040> Message-ID: <3DDD7E58.1000003@fastq.com> Thanks for your suggestions. The trees are extremely large Italian Cypress which are heavily infested. I believe the infestation would require a miticide applied by professionals. Are any of the three products you named preferable? More effective than the others?

Robin

rodmmcq6@highstream.net wrote:

A light infestation can usually be controlled with a strong spray of water done every two to three days when the temperatures are above 75 degrees. Otherwise a miticide such as Vendex, Pentac or Avid should be used. The Avid is systemic and does not require direct contact with the mites to kill them. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: rmredfield@fastq.com <rmredfield@fastq.com> To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu> Date: Thursday, November 21, 2002 9:27 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page

What is the curent, most effective treatment for Spider Mites on conifers? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener

From Jonathan Kandell" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01C291B9.B59037A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Can intermediate-day onions (e.g. Candy, Super Star, Stockton Red) be = grown in Tucson AZ from bulbs, or only short-day varieties (e.g. Texas = Supersweet, Granex, White Bermuda, Souther Belle Red)? jk ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01C291B9.B59037A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Can intermediate-day onions (e.g. Candy, Super = Star,=20 Stockton Red) be grown in Tucson AZ from bulbs, or only short-day = varieties=20 (e.g. Texas Supersweet, Granex, White Bermuda, Souther Belle = Red)?

jk
------=_NextPart_000_0010_01C291B9.B59037A0-- From imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net Fri Nov 22 17:29:23 2002 From: imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2002 10:29:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] onion varities References: <001401c291f4$6929f3c0$88768144@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <006d01c2924d$3325af40$ed52530c@delljor9501> I tried Candy from seed with no success the first year it was available. Last week, I set out intermediate-day plants (from Dixondale Farms) of Candy, Super Star and Stockton Red. Won't have results for 6 months +. I'm guessing he bulbs, if any, will be small. I also set out short-day plants of Texas Grano 1015Y, Yellow Granex (Vidalia), plus a few others just to cover all bets. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jonathan Kandell" Can intermediate-day onions (e.g. Candy, Super Star, Stockton Red) be grown in Tucson AZ from bulbs, or only short-day varieties (e.g. Texas Supersweet, Granex, White Bermuda, Souther Belle Red)? From Nelsfamily@aol.com Fri Nov 22 21:16:10 2002 From: Nelsfamily@aol.com (Nelsfamily@aol.com) Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2002 14:16:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211222116.gAMLGAN24854@Ag.arizona.edu> one of our chilean mesquite trees is sapping out very badly. When the sap is scraped away, there are small holes underneathe. We don't want to lose our tree. What insect is doing this and how do we get rid of it? From aschwartz@bzhlaw.com Sat Nov 23 17:14:42 2002 From: aschwartz@bzhlaw.com (aschwartz@bzhlaw.com) Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 10:14:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211231714.gANHEgN05191@Ag.arizona.edu> Why do my lettuce sprouts die the day they emerge? They are long and spindly, and will not form leaves. They are in full sun, but have been getting water every day; maybe too much? Transplants in the same area as the seeds are doing fine. From lillianBarker@msn.com Sat Nov 23 20:49:02 2002 From: lillianBarker@msn.com (lillianBarker@msn.com) Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 13:49:02 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211232049.gANKn2N22178@Ag.arizona.edu> I am interested in composting in large black plastic garbage bags. Any advice? Thanks! From rking@mindspring.com Sun Nov 24 01:01:07 2002 From: rking@mindspring.com (rking@mindspring.com) Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 18:01:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211240101.gAO117N10829@Ag.arizona.edu> We found a caterpillar, about 3 inches long, green and brown, has kind of a horn on it's tail end. Don't think it's a tomato hornworm. Doesn't look like the picture. It was found on the patio. Is now in a jar writhing around. It seemed to give birth to a tiny little caterpillar. I think it is an alien. Any hints? From mmb@storyteller.net Sun Nov 24 17:23:57 2002 From: mmb@storyteller.net (Michelle B) Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 10:23:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] cold-weather care for jacaranda Message-ID: <5.2.0.9.0.20021124095256.02223860@mail.storyteller.net> Early March I planted a 24" box jacaranda. It is about 10 ft tall with a 3 ft canopy. It has a donut-shaped irrigation basin extending just beyond the drip line. What is the best way to protect the tree from frost?. Thank you! Michelle, in Avondale From ahywd@aol.com Sun Nov 24 17:00:57 2002 From: ahywd@aol.com (ahywd@aol.com) Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 10:00:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211241700.gAOH0vN04045@Ag.arizona.edu> Will you have saturday master gardener classes in the spring for those of us who work during the week? From crymer@Ag.arizona.edu Sun Nov 24 17:36:21 2002 From: crymer@Ag.arizona.edu (Cathy Rymer) Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 10:36:21 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200211241700.gAOH0vN04045@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20021124103034.009474c0@ag.arizona.edu> Thanks for your question on our Master Gardener volunteer training classes. We offer two trainings per year in Maricopa County, each lasting 17 weeks. Typically we hold one off-site beginning in January and the second at our main Extension office on Broadway Road in Phoenix beginning in July. Our summer session just finished which was an evening training (July - October); this is offered every other year. We have never held a Master Gardener training on Saturdays because of the difficulty in arranging for some of our speakers that travel here from campus in Tucson. We do offer classes for the public in the spring and fall. These are held on Saturday mornings and cover a variety of topics. As soon as the schedule is set they are posted on our calendar of events page at http://main.dlv.cals.arizona.edu/garden-calendar/calendar.epl It will be July of 2004 before we are able to offer another evening Master Gardener training. In the meantime you might be interested in landscaping workshops offered by the various city's water conservation offices. These are usually free to residents. Also, the Desert Botanical Garden has a good selection of landscaping and gardening classes. Many of the local private nurseries hold classes as well I hope this helps. Please let me know if you have any questions. Cathy At 10:00 AM 11/24/2002 -0700, ahywd@aol.com wrote: >Will you have saturday master gardener classes in the spring for those of >us who work during the week? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Catherine Rymer Instructional Specialist, Sr., Urban Horticulture University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Phoenix, AZ 85040 http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ From mmb@storyteller.net Sun Nov 24 18:21:38 2002 From: mmb@storyteller.net (Michelle B) Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 11:21:38 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Rod's answer for jacaranda care In-Reply-To: <002601c293e4$9f432700$f01d0a3f@ibmbna6040> Message-ID: <5.2.0.9.0.20021124111636.021e09e0@mail.storyteller.net> Rod, Thank you for your answer regarding the jacaranda. Should the trunk be wrapped, as well? Or just cover the canopy? Thanks! Michelle At 11:09 AM 11/24/02 -0700, you wrote: >Michelle, >Newly planted Jacaranda trees will be damaged at about 25 degrees F. If the >weather forecast for your area is close to that temperature I would suggest >covering the tree with something such as a sheet. More protection will be >provided by a frost blanket that many nurseries sell. Usually the suburbs >have lower temps than what is broadcast on TV. I live in Mesa and I provide >protection for frost tender plants when the forecast is for under 40 >degrees. An indoor- outdoor thermometer will inform you how much lower the >temps are in your locale than in Phoenix. > >Good luck > >Rod McKusick >Master Gardener >-----Original Message----- >From: Michelle B >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Date: Sunday, November 24, 2002 10:24 AM >Subject: [Arid_gardener] cold-weather care for jacaranda > > > >Early March I planted a 24" box jacaranda. It is about 10 ft tall with a 3 > >ft canopy. It has a donut-shaped irrigation basin extending just beyond the > >drip line. What is the best way to protect the tree from frost?. > > > >Thank you! > >Michelle, in Avondale > > From imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net Sun Nov 24 21:44:02 2002 From: imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 14:44:02 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200211232049.gANKn2N22178@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <004f01c29402$9fa26260$3f51530c@delljor9501> I have done it accidentally by collecting garden debris in a plastic bag and leaving it in the sun before putting it on the compost heap. It gets too wet if the stuff is still green and, initially, it turns into a smelly, gooey, wet mess. It is also best not to move the bags for a while after filling because if you poke a hole in the bag the goo can leak out. The following is from and article from the North Carolina State University's Cooperative Extension at http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/hil/hil-8100.html I think we should skip the recommended lime additive because excess acidity is not a problem for us. Olin =================================== "Use of plastic garbage bags is perhaps the simplest way to make compost. The bags are easy to handle, and require minimal maintenance. To make compost using this method, 30-40 gallon plastic bags should be alternatively filled with plant wastes, fertilizer and lime. About one tablespoon of a garden fertilizer with a high nitrogen content should be used per bag. Lime (one cup per bag) helps counteract the extra acidity caused by anaerobic composting. After filling, add about a quart of water. Close tightly. Set aside for six months to a year. Bags can be set in a basement or heated garage for better decomposition during winter months. Using garbage bags requires no turning or additional water after closing. The main advantage of composting in garbage bags is that it requires little maintenance; however, because oxygen is limited, the process is slow." ----- Original Message ----- From: > I am interested in composting in large black plastic garbage bags. Any advice? Thanks! From fred43@iprimus.com.au Mon Nov 25 01:31:01 2002 From: fred43@iprimus.com.au (TRACEY CROSSLAND) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 09:31:01 +0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] growing goards Message-ID: <001b01c29422$51100b00$bb1a32d2@fred43> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C29465.5E824A80 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Please supply me some information regarding growing goards. We live in = Wetern Australia which is almost similar conditions to Arizona, very = deserty. If you know how to acquire the seeds please let me know. = Thanks a lot, from Tracey Crossland, 6 Tuart Pl, Yangebup 6164 Western = Australia, Merry christmas ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C29465.5E824A80 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Please supply me some information = regarding growing=20 goards.   We live in Wetern Australia which is almost = similar=20 conditions to Arizona, very deserty. If you know how to acquire = the seeds=20 please let me know. Thanks a lot, from Tracey Crossland, 6 Tuart = Pl,=20 Yangebup 6164 Western Australia, Merry = christmas
------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C29465.5E824A80-- From slh1120@aol.com Mon Nov 25 02:43:25 2002 From: slh1120@aol.com (slh1120@aol.com) Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 19:43:25 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211250243.gAP2hPN21796@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like to know where i can get a starter for a christmas catus? thank u From dickcarmi@aol.com Mon Nov 25 14:11:06 2002 From: dickcarmi@aol.com (dickcarmi@aol.com) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 07:11:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211251411.gAPEB6N06617@Ag.arizona.edu> One of my Chilean mesquites has some brownness of leaves on a couple of branches. Also just a few leaves on other branches. Is this the time of year? I had one large limb growing near base that seemed to completely die and I cut out. There is some clear crytalized gunk near bottom of trunk. Any ideas what I should look for. Thank you. Dick From gwright@Ag.arizona.edu Mon Nov 25 15:22:55 2002 From: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu (Glenn C. Wright) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 08:22:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: Tangelo tree Message-ID: <5.1.1.6.2.20021125081808.02f22950@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_1125973156==.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Please reply to Mr. Jon K. Thanks. GCW >From: "Jon K" >To: >Subject: Tangelo tree >Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 10:14:03 -0700 >X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2800.1106 > > About 2 weeks ago a nursery plant a tangelo tree in the yard for us > .Area planted has a lawn surrounding the tree, but made sure no grass was > in the canopy area. Also made sure that tree, was planted no deeper, than > the ball of the tree. I got a 30 gallon tree. What concerns me is that > some leaves are dropping & yellowing at the bottom & some at the top. We > were told to water every 3 days for the first 2 weeks . then every7- 10 > days thereafter. I have been filling the well of the tree,& as soon as > the well fills ,I shut off the water. My question is, are we watering too > much,or not long enough? The soil at the surface looks wet,until the 3rd > day. Also i there a possibility, that tree is going through shock, from > transplanting ,of & older tree ? The tree had a small amount of fruit > on when planted. Any help you can give me would be very much appreciated. > >Thank You, > >Jon Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D. Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist University of Arizona - Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center 2186 W. County 15th Street Somerton, AZ 85350 Phone: 928-726-0458 FAX: 928-726-1363 e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu --=====================_1125973156==.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Please reply to Mr. Jon K.
Thanks.
GCW

From: "Jon K" <jakreitz@cableaz.com>
To: <gwright@Ag.arizona.edu>
Subject: Tangelo tree
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 10:14:03 -0700
X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2800.1106

About 2 weeks ago a nursery plant a tangelo tree in the yard for us .Area planted has a lawn surrounding the tree, but made sure no grass was in the canopy area. Also made sure that tree, was planted no deeper, than the ball of the tree. I got a 30 gallon tree. What concerns me is that some leaves are dropping & yellowing at the bottom & some at the top. We were told to water every 3 days for the first 2 weeks . then every7- 10 days thereafter. I have been filling the well of the tree,& as soon as the well fills ,I shut off the water. My question is, are we watering too much,or not long enough? The soil at the surface looks wet,until the 3rd day. Also i there a possibility, that tree is going through shock, from transplanting ,of & older tree ? The tree had a small amount of fruit on when planted. Any help you can give me would be very much appreciated.

Thank You,

Jon

Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D.
Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist
University of Arizona - Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center
2186 W. County 15th Street
Somerton, AZ 85350
Phone: 928-726-0458
FAX: 928-726-1363
e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu --=====================_1125973156==.ALT-- From canrsiegrl@msn.com Mon Nov 25 21:06:35 2002 From: canrsiegrl@msn.com (canrsiegrl@msn.com) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 14:06:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211252106.gAPL6ZN11365@Ag.arizona.edu> I am moving into a home with 4 palm trees (I believe two are date palms) - and the other two are queen palms, maybe. I am not sure. I also have one that is over 100' tall.....I do not like palms personally and would like to have them removed. I don't want to kill them, and was wondering if you could tell me where I may donate them to either a company or park? They are really very pretty, but I am not a palm fan, myself...I would, of course, need them to come and remove them as well...thanks From mikecarmelo1@cox.net Mon Nov 25 22:21:10 2002 From: mikecarmelo1@cox.net (mikecarmelo1@cox.net) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 15:21:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211252221.gAPMLAN00056@Ag.arizona.edu> i have three small bearing citrus trees which recieve full sun. the center one is loosing leaves as they curl up, turn brown, and drop.. This is recent, say the past two weeks, and is spreading. HELP and thank you From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Mon Nov 25 21:38:40 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 14:38:40 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite leaves turning brown annd dropping Message-ID: <002001c294d8$1dacb5e0$672c0a3f@ibmbna6040> *If you live in the Phoenix area we have not had enough cold weather to cause the mesquites to lose their leaves. I suspect that the tree has not been getting adequate water. The clear gunk you are seeing is only sap and is normal for a mesquite. Check out these sites for info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://www.amwua.org/xscp-wateringschedules.htm Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: dickcarmi@aol.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, November 25, 2002 8:13 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >One of my Chilean mesquites has some brownness of leaves on a couple of branches. Also just a few leaves on other branches. Is this the time of year? I had one large limb growing near base that seemed to completely die and I cut out. There is some clear crytalized gunk near bottom of trunk. Any ideas what I should look for. Thank you. Dick > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Nov 25 23:28:24 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 23:28:24 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] palm salvage and relocation Message-ID: If you live in Tucson, try TC Palms, 622-3570. Otherwise check the yellow pages under "tree service" for palm recycle and relocation services or tree salvage. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: canrsiegrl@msn.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 14:06:35 -0700 (MST) > >I am moving into a home with 4 palm trees (I believe two are date palms) - >and the other two are queen palms, maybe. I am not sure. I also have one >that is over 100' tall.....I do not like palms personally and would like to >have them removed. I don't want to kill them, and was wondering if you >could tell me where I may donate them to either a company or park? They are >really very pretty, but I am not a palm fan, myself...I would, of course, >need them to come and remove them as well...thanks > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From bigbadjoe@eatel.net Tue Nov 26 02:26:29 2002 From: bigbadjoe@eatel.net (bigbadjoe) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 18:26:29 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] alvocado Message-ID: <000801c294f3$3c98b600$aae2fccc@pavilion> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C294B0.2C6D22E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable i have seeds growing when and how do i plant my alvocados ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C294B0.2C6D22E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
i have seeds growing when and how do i = plant my=20 alvocados

------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C294B0.2C6D22E0-- From visionsbyo@aol.com Tue Nov 26 04:19:02 2002 From: visionsbyo@aol.com (visionsbyo@aol.com) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 21:19:02 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211260419.gAQ4J2N24974@Ag.arizona.edu> I bought some eggplant seedlings in the Spring. They grew big and healthy, but they are giving both normal purple eggplants and orange fruit on the same plant. I have 4 plants doing that, not planted in the same spot. The fruit are orange right away, and stay so. They are a little bitter and more firm than the purple ones. Where I bought them, they have never heard of such a thing. I wonder what could be the cause, and if those orange fruit might be toxic in some way, though I have been eating some, but in small quantities. Thank you, Olivia. From bobandhelen@att.net Tue Nov 26 15:34:06 2002 From: bobandhelen@att.net (bobandhelen@att.net) Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 08:34:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211261534.gAQFY6N10720@Ag.arizona.edu> The leaves of my Peace Lily (indoor plant)turn brown from the outside in. What causes this? it has not bloomed in the past 6 months. From cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu Tue Nov 26 17:50:47 2002 From: cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu (Carol Noyes) Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 10:50:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bark Beetle Seminar in Prescott Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20021126103602.00ab1990@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_4509866==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Bark Beetle Seminar in Prescott December 5 Got Bark Beetles? The southwest has been experiencing an extreme pine bark beetle outbreak. These insects have caused extensive Ponderosa Pine mortality in the Prescott, Groom Creek, Walker, and Crown King areas. many residents are very concerned about the loss of pine trees on their property and in the surrounding Prescott National Forest. Experts predict that bark beetle activity will continue next spring and summer and perhaps longer if the drought conditions continue. Learn how to best manage your property and protect the remaining, highest-value Ponderosa pine trees. The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension, Yavapai County is hosting this informational seminar at Prescott Mile High Middle School, 300 S. Granite St. on December 5, 2002 from 6:30 to 9:00 PM. Presentations will be given by forest entomologists from the University of Arizona and USDA Forest Service Rocky Mountain Research Station. Local resource natural resource management professionals will also be present. Topics will include bark beetle biology, impacts to the local forest, and bark beetle damage prevention. There will be ample time provided for questions from the audience. Jeff Schalau Agent, Agriculture and Natural Resources University of Arizona Cooperative Extension P.O. Box 388 Prescott, AZ 86302 928-445-6590 jschalau@ag.arizona.edu --=====================_4509866==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
Bark Beetle Seminar in Prescott
December 5

Got Bark Beetles? The southwest has been experiencing an extreme pine bark beetle outbreak. These insects have caused extensive Ponderosa Pine mortality in the Prescott, Groom Creek, Walker, and Crown King areas. many residents are very concerned about the loss of pine trees on their property and in the surrounding Prescott National Forest. Experts predict that bark beetle activity will continue next spring and summer and perhaps longer if the drought conditions continue. Learn how to best manage your property and protect the remaining, highest-value Ponderosa pine trees.

The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension, Yavapai County is hosting this informational seminar at Prescott Mile High Middle School, 300 S. Granite St. on December 5, 2002 from 6:30 to 9:00 PM. Presentations will be given by forest entomologists from the University of Arizona and USDA Forest Service Rocky Mountain Research Station. Local resource natural resource management professionals will also be present. Topics will include bark beetle biology, impacts to the local forest, and bark beetle damage prevention. There will be ample time provided for questions from the audience.

Jeff Schalau
Agent, Agriculture and Natural Resources
University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
P.O. Box 388
Prescott, AZ 86302
928-445-6590
jschalau@ag.arizona.edu --=====================_4509866==_.ALT-- From cenalmor@yahoo.com Tue Nov 26 18:02:27 2002 From: cenalmor@yahoo.com (Barbara Cenalmor) Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 10:02:27 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] orange eggplants In-Reply-To: <200211260419.gAQ4J2N24974@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20021126180227.23854.qmail@web14703.mail.yahoo.com> Olivia, there are several varieties of eggplants. Those with orange fruits are not uncommon and most are edible. The attached website has the names and pictures of several edible varieties of eggplants. Maybe you can recognize yours. http://gmr.landfood.unimelb.edu.au/Plantnames/Sorting/DCavagnaro_Gallery.html Barbara C. Master Gardener --- visionsbyo@aol.com wrote: > I bought some eggplant seedlings in the Spring. They > grew big and healthy, but they are giving both > normal purple eggplants and orange fruit on the same > plant. > I have 4 plants doing that, not planted in the same > spot. > The fruit are orange right away, and stay so. > They are a little bitter and more firm than the > purple ones. > Where I bought them, they have never heard of such a > thing. > I wonder what could be the cause, > and if those orange fruit might be toxic in some > way, though I have been eating some, but in small > quantities. > > Thank you, > Olivia. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com From watsontl@mindspring.com Tue Nov 26 22:48:34 2002 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (watsontl@mindspring.com) Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 17:48:34 -0500 Subject: [Arid_gardener] orange eggplants Message-ID: That both colors are on the same plant makes me think the plants are having trouble developing a full load of fruit at any one time. There might also be a problem with getting complete pollination on some of the flowers. If the orange fruit are much smaller than their normal counterparts, this is what I would suspect. It's unlikely that the odd fruit are unhealthy to eat, but I would remove them to spare the plants putting their energy into fruit that isn't very useful to you. Encourage them to spend their resources on the fruit you will enjoy eating. Tom On Tue, 26 Nov 2002 10:02:27 -0800 (PST) Barbara Cenalmor wrote: > Olivia, > there are several varieties of eggplants. > Those with > orange fruits are not uncommon and most are > edible. > The attached website has the names and pictures > of > several edible varieties of eggplants. Maybe > you can > recognize yours. > http://gmr.landfood.unimelb.edu.au/Plantnames/Sorting/DCavagnaro_Gallery.html > > Barbara C. > Master Gardener > --- visionsbyo@aol.com wrote: > > I bought some eggplant seedlings in the > Spring. They > > grew big and healthy, but they are giving > both > > normal purple eggplants and orange fruit on > the same > > plant. > > I have 4 plants doing that, not planted in > the same > > spot. > > The fruit are orange right away, and stay so. > > They are a little bitter and more firm than > the > > purple ones. > > Where I bought them, they have never heard of > such a > > thing. > > I wonder what could be the cause, > > and if those orange fruit might be toxic in > some > > way, though I have been eating some, but in > small > > quantities. > > > > Thank you, > > Olivia. > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > __________________________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign > up now. > http://mailplus.yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From dande25974@aol.com Wed Nov 27 04:36:20 2002 From: dande25974@aol.com (dande25974@aol.com) Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 21:36:20 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211270436.gAR4aKN06142@Ag.arizona.edu> I need information on bamboo. I want a species that grows and spreds quickly. I desire that it also be a full species as I want it to help muffle the neighbors loud stereo. Please advise with any other ideas. Daniel Apache Junction, AZ From sunbird07@earthlink.net Thu Nov 28 04:45:33 2002 From: sunbird07@earthlink.net (sunbird07@earthlink.net) Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 21:45:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211280445.gAS4jXN22000@Ag.arizona.edu> What time of year is best to apply post-emergent weed control chemical. From azwatershed@aol.com Thu Nov 28 16:19:26 2002 From: azwatershed@aol.com (azwatershed@aol.com) Date: Thu, 28 Nov 2002 09:19:26 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211281619.gASGJQN22914@Ag.arizona.edu> I found an insect on my orange tree. A friend said it was an Orange dogworm. I have a jpg image I can send along if given the correct address to attach a photo From dlrschce@dancris.com Thu Nov 28 16:50:31 2002 From: dlrschce@dancris.com (dlrschce@dancris.com) Date: Thu, 28 Nov 2002 09:50:31 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211281650.gASGoVN25221@Ag.arizona.edu> My Lawn is about 9 years old, bermuda grass. Initially we had sod put down. We had one are where the grass acted like it was not getting enough water, dried out, and then died out leaving bare spots of dirt.The dirt looks like something has been digging in it , like a bird or something. It has spread over the years and now is in about 1/3 of the lawn. where the bare dirt is, the dirt is loose and fluffy, for lack of a better word. I think this is pearl scale damage. If it is Pearl scale, how do you get rid of the insects. Nobody seems to have a good answer. Can you get rid of it by taking the grass out with about an inch of dirt? What pesticides would kill the Pearl scale? I believe the sod we had put down in 1993 was infected before we got it. Joe Price Mesa From john@johnongardening.com Fri Nov 29 15:24:09 2002 From: john@johnongardening.com (John Chapman) Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2002 08:24:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] alvocado In-Reply-To: <000801c294f3$3c98b600$aae2fccc@pavilion> Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C29780.B0C67780 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bigbadjoe, For growing avocados click here: http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/extension/homefruit/avocado/avocado2.html For tropical plant nursery click here: http://www.desert-tropicals.com/Tropica_Mango_Nurseries.html John Chapman, Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of bigbadjoe Sent: Monday, November 25, 2002 7:26 PM To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] alvocado i have seeds growing when and how do i plant my alvocados ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C29780.B0C67780 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Bigbadjoe, =

        = ;    For growing avocados click here: http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/extension/homefruit/avoca= do/avocado2.html

For tropical plant nursery click here: = htt= p://www.desert-tropicals.com/Tropica_Mango_Nurseries.html
=

John = Chapman, Master Gardener

-----Original Message-----
From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu = [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of bigbadjoe
Sent: Monday, November = 25, 2002 7:26 PM
To: = Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = alvocado

i have seeds growing when and how = do i plant my alvocados

<= /p>
------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C29780.B0C67780-- From imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net Fri Nov 29 17:26:07 2002 From: imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2002 10:26:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Orange Dog Photo References: <200211281619.gASGJQN22914@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <002d01c297cc$71bb2d50$6b56530c@delljor9501> See http://insects.tamu.edu/images/insects/common/images/cd-43-c-txt/cimg272.htm l for a photograph. There are lots of other photos on the web. Search using "Orange Dog" or :Swallowtail Butterfly". Form the Master Gardeners Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/entomology/citrus.html : "Orange dog caterpillars feed on citrus. They are mottled dark grey to light brown, and are said to look like "bird droppings." If disturbed, two orange, horn-like projections emerge from the head and the caterpillar produces a pungent lemony odor. When mature the caterpillar is about 1 1/2 inch long. The adult is beautiful black and yellow butterfly called the giant swallowtail. Orange dogs are potentially harmful to young trees only, older trees can easily withstand the loss of a few leaves. Orange dogs can be controlled on small trees by finding and crushing eggs and caterpillars. Most are controlled naturally by parasites and other natural enemies." Olin From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Fri Nov 29 22:12:32 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2002 15:12:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Weed control, best time of year to apply Message-ID: <003801c297f4$6b3bf0e0$4431db43@ibmbna6040> Most weeds need to be actively growing for post emergent herbicides such as Roundup to be most effective. Spring or soon after a rain becomes the most effective time. I think most of us will try to apply a post emergent weed killer when the weeds are young regardless of the time of year. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ----Original Message----- From: sunbird07@earthlink.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Friday, November 29, 2002 10:01 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >What time of year is best to apply post-emergent weed control chemical. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From isgrock@MSN.com Fri Nov 29 23:35:50 2002 From: isgrock@MSN.com (isgrock@MSN.com) Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2002 16:35:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211292335.gATNZoN20883@Ag.arizona.edu> How can javelinas be discouraged from foraging on property in housing developments? From sunbird07@earthlink.net Sat Nov 30 05:15:52 2002 From: sunbird07@earthlink.net (lawrence) Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2002 22:15:52 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] pre-emergent chemical Message-ID: <001601c2982f$8f4517b0$0000a398@CPQ31417743210> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C297F4.E15A6F90 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable pre-emergent chemical, not post-emergent is what I was asking about, if = it should be applied in the fall or in the spring. ------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C297F4.E15A6F90 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
pre-emergent chemical, not = post-emergent is what I=20 was  asking about, if it should be applied in the fall or in = the=20 spring.
------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C297F4.E15A6F90-- From beverlyp@cox.net Sat Nov 30 05:36:02 2002 From: beverlyp@cox.net (Beverly Pitchford) Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2002 22:36:02 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Composting oleander leaves Message-ID: <000001c29832$5f6115a0$4ef80244@family> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0001_01C297F7.B3023DA0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I am interested in composting. My main "raw material" will be oleander leaves. I had heard they are somewhat noxious to other plants and animals. Does this impact their suitability for composting? Same question for unused citrus fruit (grapefruit, orange, etc.). THANKS ------=_NextPart_000_0001_01C297F7.B3023DA0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I am interested in composting. My main “raw = material” will be oleander leaves. I had = heard they are somewhat noxious to other plants and animals. Does this impact their = suitability for composting? Same question for unused citrus = fruit (grapefruit, orange, etc.). = THANKS

------=_NextPart_000_0001_01C297F7.B3023DA0-- From gaye.luna@nau.edu Fri Nov 1 04:34:22 2002 From: gaye.luna@nau.edu (Gaye Luna) Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 21:34:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] fruit tree question Message-ID: <5.0.2.1.2.20021031212350.00a09530@jan.ucc.nau.edu> A landscaping company planted for us grapefruit and oranges trees in mid-May. They survived the heat stress through the summer it seemed just fine. About three weeks ago, we fertilized these two trees with 13-10-4 as recommended by the landscaper, in the tubes around the trees. The trees have green fruit on them. We are watering the trees every 4th day for 2.5 hours (again based on the guidelines set for new trees by the landscaper). However, the leaves, especially at the tops of the trees, are curled/shriveled and not very healthy looking. A few leaves have yellow spots and are dried up. Is this anything wrong? Thank you. These are our first fruit trees in a desert climate. From robert.mongrain@amec.com Fri Nov 1 06:26:37 2002 From: robert.mongrain@amec.com (robert.mongrain@amec.com) Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 23:26:37 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211010626.gA16QaN18478@Ag.arizona.edu> Can I trim my Euryops Daisy now? The plants are large and overgrown, with long brown stems, with clusters of leaves and blooms well away from the plant origin. The plants have (due to neglect)have overtaken the area where they are planted. From KLH718@aol.com Fri Nov 1 16:34:41 2002 From: KLH718@aol.com (KLH718@aol.com) Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2002 11:34:41 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] watering Message-ID: --part1_cf.1f7862db.2af40721_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit background: Last year, when we didn't cover the entire cost of our utilities, we put in a big, beautiful flower bed. This year, ha ha!, we are much more cost-of-utilities conscious, as well as drought-conscious, and I'm not so sure this flower bed was a great idea. There is, however, lots of spring-flowering seed & bulbs in the bed and yes, we'd love to see them again next spring; toadflax & poppies & ranunculus. There is nothing growing in the bed now. question: Do we need to be watering them now, and through the winter, to make them flower in the spring? Or can we hold off until February (Jan.?). Thanks, Karen --part1_cf.1f7862db.2af40721_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit background: Last year, when we didn't cover the entire cost of our utilities, we put in a big, beautiful flower bed. This year, ha ha!, we are much more cost-of-utilities conscious, as well as drought-conscious, and I'm not so sure this flower bed was a great idea. There is, however, lots of spring-flowering seed & bulbs in the bed and yes, we'd love to see them again next spring; toadflax & poppies & ranunculus. There is nothing growing in the bed now.

question: Do we need to be watering them now, and through the winter, to make them flower in the spring? Or can we hold off until February (Jan.?).

Thanks,
Karen --part1_cf.1f7862db.2af40721_boundary-- From copper@bargainsail.com Fri Nov 1 16:40:26 2002 From: copper@bargainsail.com (Copper Bittner) Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2002 09:40:26 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Only 4 cabins left Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_029C_01C2818A.B558F090 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If there is anyone interested in experiencing the flora and fauna of the Baja California Sur on the Spirit of Endeavour embarking January 18th, please contact me very soon. We'll see the interesting native flora on deserted desert islands as well as snorkel and kayak in the blue waters of the Sea of Cortes. Everything is included except airfare. This is going to be a fun and educational trip for Master Gardeners and guests Email me for further information. Copper Bittner Master Gardener 480-802-9709 ------=_NextPart_000_029C_01C2818A.B558F090 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

If = there is anyone=20 interested in experiencing the flora and fauna of the Baja California = Sur on the=20 Spirit of Endeavour embarking January 18th, please contact me very = soon. =20

We'll = see the=20 interesting native flora on deserted desert islands as well as snorkel = and kayak=20 in the blue waters of the Sea of Cortes. Everything is included = except=20 airfare. This is going to be a fun and educational trip for Master = Gardeners and guests

Email = me for further=20 information.

Copper = Bittner

Master = Gardener

480-802-9709
------=_NextPart_000_029C_01C2818A.B558F090-- From KGSWolf@aol.com Fri Nov 1 19:56:09 2002 From: KGSWolf@aol.com (KGSWolf@aol.com) Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2002 14:56:09 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] When to Plant Message-ID: <34.2f8d4317.2af43659@aol.com> Hello: My husband and I have just started gardening this year and we had a question as to when is the best time to plant the following: -Strawberries -Russet Potatoes -Red Onions -Mushrooms -Sugar Snap Peas Also, do the above do well in the Arizona climate? Thank you for your assistance. Kathy Wolf From bradleyl@Ag.arizona.edu Fri Nov 1 21:57:43 2002 From: bradleyl@Ag.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Fri, 01 Nov 2002 14:57:43 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] On-Line Pictures of SW Plants Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20021101144850.01fbfa50@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_1597917==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed ---------- Forwarded message ---------- Date: Fri, 01 Nov 2002 11:14:21 -0700 From: Sam Drake To: arsc@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [arsc] URLs for plant pictures & info Dear ARSC folks, Here are some URLs for those of you wishing to study (mostly) native Southwest plants from your office, when you can't get into the field. http://eebweb.arizona.edu/HERB/plantphotos.html http://aznps.org/html/np_information_az.html http://lsvl.la.asu.edu/herbarium/index.html http://plants.usda.gov/ http://www.hortpix.com/ http://www.plantadviser.com/index.htm http://ag.arizona.edu/cochise/psc/index.htm http://www.desert-tropicals.com/ http://www.botany.com/index.html http://www.desertusa.com/flora.html http://www.gps.caltech.edu/~arid/plants/plants.html http://www.plantsofthesouthwest.com/ http://sanangelo.tamu.edu/agronomy/weeds/ http://tncweeds.ucdavis.edu/photos.html http://www.uapress.arizona.edu/online.bks/weeds/titlweed.htm ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Sam Drake, Ph.D. Assistant Research Scientist Arizona Remote Sensing Center Office of Arid Lands Studies University of Arizona 1955 E. 6th Street Tucson, AZ 85719 (520) 621-4501 (520) 621-3816 fax sdrake@nexus.srnr.arizona.edu ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens --=====================_1597917==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Fri, 01 Nov 2002 11:14:21 -0700
From: Sam Drake <sdrake@nexus.srnr.Arizona.EDU>
To: arsc@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: [arsc] URLs for plant pictures & info

Dear ARSC folks,

Here are some URLs for those of you wishing to study (mostly) native
Southwest plants from your office, when you can't get into the field.

http://eebweb.arizona.edu/HERB/plantphotos.html
http://aznps.org/html/np_information_az.html
http://lsvl.la.asu.edu/herbarium/index.html
http://plants.usda.gov/
http://www.hortpix.com/
http://www.plantadviser.com/index.htm
http://ag.arizona.edu/cochise/psc/index.htm
http://www.desert-tropicals.com/
http://www.botany.com/index.html
http://www.desertusa.com/flora.html
http://www.gps.caltech.edu/~arid/plants/plants.html
http://www.plantsofthesouthwest.com/
http://sanangelo.tamu.edu/agronomy/weeds/
http://tncweeds.ucdavis.edu/photos.html
http://www.uapress.arizona.edu/online.bks/weeds/titlweed.htm

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Sam Drake, Ph.D.
Assistant Research Scientist
Arizona Remote Sensing Center
Office of Arid Lands Studies
University of Arizona
1955 E. 6th Street
Tucson, AZ 85719
(520) 621-4501
(520) 621-3816 fax
sdrake@nexus.srnr.arizona.edu
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807

Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax: (602) 470-8092
email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/
http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens

--=====================_1597917==_.ALT-- From e1s2adler@juno.com Fri Nov 1 22:10:16 2002 From: e1s2adler@juno.com (e1s2adler@juno.com) Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2002 22:10:16 GMT Subject: [Arid_gardener] bushes dying Message-ID: <20021101.171104.1594.161686@wm8.nyc.untd.com> Hi! Bushes which have been healthy for the more than twenty years we have lived here in Glendale are dying. About a year ago the pyracantha espaliered on our garage began to die--withering gradually spreading from one side to the other until it was all dead. Our neighbor complained that roses in her yard were also dying. Last month we noticed that a large Pittosporum bush on the opposite side of the garage was beginning to die, and it is now completely dead. The Pittosporum variegata right next to it still looks healthy and we would hate to lose it too. Is there anything we can do? We have never specially watered these plants and they seemed to do well without watering (except some from watering the lawn). We did water the dying Pittosporum but it didn't help. Another peculiarity is that the 3 jujube trees which usually bear loads of fruit did not set any this year although they did bloom. Any help you can offer will be greatly appreciated. Sincerely, Esther Adler ________________________________________________________________ Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today Only $9.95 per month! Visit www.juno.com From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Fri Nov 1 22:26:23 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2002 15:26:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Euryops Daisy, Pruning Message-ID: <000f01c281f5$b70f5080$3f04e043@ibmbna6040> The Euryops Daisy would be best pruned in the spring after it finishes blooming. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener-----Original Message----- From: robert.mongrain@amec.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Friday, November 01, 2002 9:52 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Can I trim my Euryops Daisy now? The plants are large and overgrown, with long brown stems, with clusters of leaves and blooms well away from the plant origin. The plants have (due to neglect)have overtaken the area where they are planted. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net Fri Nov 1 22:24:23 2002 From: imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2002 15:24:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] When to Plant References: <34.2f8d4317.2af43659@aol.com> Message-ID: <000a01c281f5$7c1cfb80$6857530c@delljor9501> ----- Original Message -----From: > > My husband and I have just started gardening this year and we had a question > as to when is the best time to plant the following: > You did not indicate where in Arizona. Flagstaff and Phoenix climates are quite different. Following information is for the low desert: > -Strawberries Transplant right now thru mid December. May need light frost protection on cold nights. Or you can also transplant in February. For recommended varieties see http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1269/ and for harvest dates see http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1269/az1269table.pdf Providing afternoon shade and a fine mist on hot summer days is helpful. Adaption to AZ climates is only fair. Although strawberries are perennials, you may want to keep the new runners when they fill in and root and discard the older plants. > -Russet Potatoes The usual recommendation is to plant in January and February. Problem with February planting is if we have an early spring. the soil warms too soon to get a decent crop. I have better success planting in Novenber the same time as flowering bulbs and garlic. The tops may freeze back a bit in December or January but the plants will recover and be okay. It's best to use the potatoes as small new potatoes. If you try to grow large potatoes to store they tend to become scabby in our alkaline soil. I would recommend red potatoes like Lasota or Pontiac. It is also best to plant in the soil. The recommendations you sometimes see about covering with straw or growing in automoble tire stacks do not work well here because the medium gets too warm. One problem is the difficulty in buying seed potatoes at the correct time for planting.. They are seldom available at the right time in garden centers and most seed companies won't ship until March. Then here is the problem with the tubers freezing in transit. A few companies (like Irish Eyes at http://www.irish-eyes.com/index.php ) will work with you to try to ship when you request but you have to bear the risk of getting frozen tubers. > -Red Onions The red onions you find in the mesh bags in our local garden centers will not form bulbs. Onions are photoperiodic and we need to grow a short-day variety because our growing season is in the wintertime. The best results are with plants grown out as transplants or by direct seeding in October through mid November. Sets tend to go to seed before forming bulbs. You can also set out transplants as late as February and they will bulb at the same time as the earlier plantings but the bulbs will be smaller There are several varieties of sweet white and yellow short-day onions that grow well here but the only reliable red one I am familiar with is "Southern Belle". At higher elevations like New River and Black Canyon City, gardeners semm to be successful with the large red hamburger onion. > -Mushrooms I haven't a clue. > -Sugar Snap Peas Peas can be planted beginning as soon as the weather cools and as long as it stays cool - usually mid February. We usually try to plant any pea, including sweet peas and garden peas, as close as possible to October 4. > > Also, do the above do well in the Arizona climate? Depends an how much time you want to spend caring for them. All require somewhat more care than in the East, Midwest, or coastal California. Peas usually do well. Onions also but are sensitive as to timing and variety. Strawberries and potatoes are only fair. Olin Miller From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Fri Nov 1 22:56:10 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2002 15:56:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] fruit tree question Message-ID: <002801c281f9$e0211720$3f04e043@ibmbna6040> Gaye, U of A. bulletin titled Citrus Trees In The Home Garden states that newy planted citrus trees should not be fertilized until they have been in the ground for one year and then apply only 2 to 4 tablespoons of fertilizer four times per year scattered over the root zone and not applied in one place. Further fertilizer should not be applied in the fall of the year. You may have caused root burn. The above referenced bulletin is available for $1.00 from Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040. For info on watering citrus check out this site which will give you details: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: Gaye Luna To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Friday, November 01, 2002 9:54 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] fruit tree question >A landscaping company planted for us grapefruit and oranges trees in >mid-May. They survived the heat stress through the summer it seemed just >fine. About three weeks ago, we fertilized these two trees with 13-10-4 as >recommended by the landscaper, in the tubes around the trees. > >The trees have green fruit on them. We are watering the trees every 4th >day for 2.5 hours (again based on the guidelines set for new trees by the >landscaper). However, the leaves, especially at the tops of the trees, are >curled/shriveled and not very healthy looking. A few leaves have yellow >spots and are dried up. Is this anything wrong? > >Thank you. These are our first fruit trees in a desert climate. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Fri Nov 1 23:11:53 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2002 16:11:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Irrigating low water use trees Message-ID: <002f01c281fc$11ebc140$3f04e043@ibmbna6040> Clyde, The Palo brea and Chilean Mesquite are low water use trees and can suvive on very little water once they are established (two to three years).However they will look and grow better if more water is applied then the minimum. Adequate irrigation for these trees is to soak the entire root zone to a depth of three feet once every two to three weeks in summer and once every four to six weeks in winter. You can check the depth the water has penetrated by inserting a steel rod into the ground after irrigation, it will go easily to the depth the water has penetrated. Check out this site for more info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: clydegerman@msn.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Friday, November 01, 2002 9:56 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >My Palo Brea and Chilean Mesquite trees are three years old (since I planted them). They are approximately 12 to 15 feet high. How often should they be watered? I now have 4 two-gal. drippers on each with drippers going into a 3" plastic pipe 18" into the ground and approximately 1 ft. from the trunk of each tree. I've been watering: summer - 2 hrs. every 7 days. winter - 2 hrs. every 10 days. Should a change be made now that they are established? And, if so, what is your recommendation for watering them? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From umiller@azdps.com Sat Nov 2 14:02:48 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 07:02:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tree Watering In-Reply-To: <200210312240.g9VMeJN21066@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: I have a Chilean Mesquite the same age and size as yours and Rod is right about the deep watering. It works on mine. I don't have any drippers on the tree and use a simple procedure. I just run the hose to the tree and let it run for 30-40 minutes in the summer every few weeks; move it to the other side of the tree and do the same. I do it less frequently in the winter. I put a timer on the hose, so it shuts itself off, which has made even this simple process even easier. The tree seems to be happy with this routine. Keep in mind that the more you water, the more it grows, the more you might have to prune and the more beans and leaflets to clean up in the spring. So I guess the trick is to find the right balance between enough water to keep theme healthy but not so much to make them grow too fast. Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener But I Love My Mesquite -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of clydegerman@msn.com Sent: Thursday, October 31, 2002 3:40 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My Palo Brea and Chilean Mesquite trees are three years old (since I planted them). They are approximately 12 to 15 feet high. How often should they be watered? I now have 4 two-gal. drippers on each with drippers going into a 3" plastic pipe 18" into the ground and approximately 1 ft. from the trunk of each tree. I've been watering: summer - 2 hrs. every 7 days. winter - 2 hrs. every 10 days. Should a change be made now that they are established? And, if so, what is your recommendation for watering them? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From KGSWolf@aol.com Sat Nov 2 17:58:32 2002 From: KGSWolf@aol.com (KGSWolf@aol.com) Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 12:58:32 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Another question Message-ID: <149.1cbdfe3.2af56c48@aol.com> Hello Again, Thank you for your earlier response. I have another question. Presently we have tomatoes and chili peppers growing in our garden. It is a three tier garden. We have numerous chili peppers - they just seem to keep growing. We've enjoyed them over the past month or so and new ones keep coming in. Are there any other fruits or vegetables we can plant at this time - or will the colder weather just kill everything off. We live in the Valley area near Scottsdale. Thanks for your help. Kathy Wolf From Jonathan Kandell" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C28288.783B23A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have some tomatoes that are just now turning from the green to the = whitish stage. I hope to ripen them before frost around Nov 27. Is = there anything I can do to hasten ripening? Should I pinch off all = flowers and tiny fruit at this point? Should I trim back branches to = put energy into ripening? Should I cover with remay? Clear plastic? = Etc. jk ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C28288.783B23A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I have some tomatoes that are just now turning = from the=20 green to the whitish stage. I hope to ripen them before frost = around Nov=20 27. Is there anything I can do to hasten ripening? Should I = pinch=20 off all flowers and tiny fruit at this point? Should I trim back = branches=20 to put energy into ripening? Should I cover with remay? = Clear=20 plastic? Etc.

jk
------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C28288.783B23A0-- From kleinaz@msn.com Sun Nov 3 00:29:33 2002 From: kleinaz@msn.com (kleinaz@msn.com) Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 17:29:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211030029.gA30TXN22760@Ag.arizona.edu> HELP. I have two citrus trees, one orange & one grapefruit. I have alot of dead branches in the orange tree. When is the month to cut them out? On the grapefruit tree, I have yellow leaves. Too much water or not enough? I have no clue. Thanks. From amcs88@hotmail.com Sun Nov 3 01:38:50 2002 From: amcs88@hotmail.com (amcs88@hotmail.com) Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 18:38:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211030138.gA31coN28407@Ag.arizona.edu> Following storm damage, we recently had to remove 10 very large, old salt cedar (tamarisk) trees from our property in Chandler AZ. These trees ran along our neighborhood irrigation delivery ditch and received plenty of water regularly. We are ready to replace the trees and need suggestions for a type/types of trees that will meet most or all of the following criteria: 1. Able to withstand the regular water, 2. Low or no litter to clog irrigation ditch, 3. Adequate provision, over time, of shade for our horses, 4. No poisonous components (i.e. to harm livestock/pets), 5. Prefer local varieties, but criteria 1-4 most important. One other related question -- If you recommend a variety, what size will it grow to, and how quickly does it grow? Thanks so much! From ASUsped@aol.com Sun Nov 3 04:04:49 2002 From: ASUsped@aol.com (ASUsped@aol.com) Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 23:04:49 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Shasta Daisies Message-ID: <147.1d205fd.2af5fa61@aol.com> I have received this email from a friend of mine in Gilbert, AZ and I was wondering if anyone would help with some inforamtion....Mike <<.....Anyone knows if Shasta Daisies (from seed) would be compatible with sweet peas, as far as, trying to produce a coordinated bloom? I am lucky enough to be living on 3/4 of an acre which receives irrigation. My sweet peas are doing quite well and I wanted to plant something in front of them bordering a sidewalk....was thinking Linaria or Shasta Daisies would be rather show stopping. Any ideas?>> From rmwoods62@juno.com Sun Nov 3 05:31:57 2002 From: rmwoods62@juno.com (rmwoods62@juno.com) Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 22:31:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211030531.gA35VvN17273@Ag.arizona.edu> Need infomation on grafting citrus. Not bud grafting. My tangerine tree died, it was only three years old. I left it alone ater it died and later it started new branchs from the base of the old tree. These limbs are wild or sour orange they have many thhrones on the limbs. I want to graft a healthy tangerine limb from my neighbors tree to this base. Thank you. Robt Woods From WayOffTheRoad@aol.com Sun Nov 3 18:03:45 2002 From: WayOffTheRoad@aol.com (WayOffTheRoad@aol.com) Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2002 13:03:45 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Habiscus Tree Question Message-ID: <1c4.10a4fa2.2af6bf01@aol.com> We have 2 habiscus trees which are planted in the ground. They have been doing beautifully throughout the spring and summer and have grown tremendously. We live in the eastern part of NC where the temperatures are beginning to get cold (~35 degrees at night). We are thinking about digging them up and putting them in large pots and bringing them inside for the cold months. Is that the right thing to do? One is a braided trunk and the other is a straight trunk. Any information you could give us would be greatly appreciated as we want to do this within the next day or so. Thanks much! The Kellys From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Sat Nov 2 20:46:28 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 13:46:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] bushes dying Message-ID: <001e01c282b0$ec344a20$4a31db43@ibmbna6040> Esther, Southern Arizona and particularly the Phoenix area has been under drought conditions for five years, this year has been one of the hottest and dryest on record. Pittosporum and pyracantha are both moderate water use plants and should have more water then is supplied by turf watering. Turf irrigation is typically only 6 to 8 inches deep, shrubs should be watered to a two foot depth. It has been a tough year on roses and especially if they do not get special care. Improper irrigation causes plants to be stressed and stressed plants are quite susceptable to attack by disease and insects. Check out this site for more info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: e1s2adler@juno.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Friday, November 01, 2002 3:58 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] bushes dying >Hi! > >Bushes which have been healthy for the more than twenty years we have lived here in Glendale are dying. About a year ago the pyracantha espaliered on our garage began to die--withering gradually spreading from one side to the other until it was all dead. Our neighbor complained that roses in her yard were also dying. > >Last month we noticed that a large Pittosporum bush on the opposite side of the garage was beginning to die, and it is now completely dead. The Pittosporum variegata right next to it still looks healthy and we would hate to lose it too. Is there anything we can do? We have never specially watered these plants and they seemed to do well without watering (except some from watering the lawn). We did water the dying Pittosporum but it didn't help. > >Another peculiarity is that the 3 jujube trees which usually bear loads of fruit did not set any this year although they did bloom. > >Any help you can offer will be greatly appreciated. > Sincerely, Esther Adler > > > > >________________________________________________________________ >Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today >Only $9.95 per month! >Visit www.juno.com >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From g.ross@mindspring.com Mon Nov 4 16:50:03 2002 From: g.ross@mindspring.com (g.ross@mindspring.com) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 09:50:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211041650.gA4Go3N27089@Ag.arizona.edu> We have two Ficus Nitinda(sp?) trees that need the help of an arborist or someone who is capable with with this variety. The trees are healthy but they have unfortunently been trimmed as large hedges for about 5 years. They need to be opened up and trimmed to look like a tree but I want someone who has experience with the proper approach to this tree variety rather than the guy traveling down the street with a pickup truck and a chain saw. These trees are the focal point in our back yard so the outcome is important to us. Any recommendations? Sincerly Gary Ross From imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net Mon Nov 4 17:45:15 2002 From: imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 10:45:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Another question References: <149.1cbdfe3.2af56c48@aol.com> Message-ID: <005a01c28429$fa47cbd0$7f51530c@delljor9501> ----- Original Message -----From: >...Are there any other fruits or vegetables we can plant at this time - or will > the colder weather just kill everything off. We live in the Valley area near > Scottsdale There is an extensive list of cool season vegetables that can be planted at this time at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1005.pdf The vegetables listed for October-November planting will survive our usual light frosts but could be damaged on those rare occasions when the late-night to early-morning temps fall down into the 20s. Seed germination is more slow and less reliable from mid November through January but transplants can be set out at any time. You can usually find healthy transplants at garden centers like Baker Nursery, Summer Winds or Harper's. Some of the frost-tender warm season vegetables can also be grown but need to be protected from an occasional light frost, e.g., using plastic tunnels, frost blankets, Wall O' Water, etc. Why not also try growing a few culinary herbs along with the vegetables? Many herbs grown elsewhere as perennials are grown here as annuals and planted in October and November. Herb transplants are currently available at the garden centers listed above as well as the Home Depots and Lowes stores. To see herbs that are typically grown here, I would suggest a tour of the Coop Extension's gardens at 4341 E. Broadway Road in Phoenix where the AZ Herb Assn. maintains a representative herb garden. Grapes, berries and deciduous fruit trees listed in the publication at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1269/ are usually available as relatively inexpensive bare root plants in garden center from late December through February and can be planted at that time. Trees can also be transplanted at any time from containers at any time but results seem to be better when transplanted during the cool months so the roots can become established before new spring growth. Olin Miller . From Sleepwboss@aol.com Mon Nov 4 19:22:57 2002 From: Sleepwboss@aol.com (Sleepwboss@aol.com) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 14:22:57 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] speeding up ripening tomatoes? Message-ID: --part1_a2.2e92ad6e.2af82311_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable In a message dated 11/4/02 10:38:32 AM Central Standard Time,=20 jkandell@sysmatrix.net writes: > I have some tomatoes that are just now turning from the green to the whiti= sh=20 > stage. I hope to ripen them before frost around Nov 27. Is there anythin= g=20 > I can do to hasten ripening? =20 JK-- Rebecca's Garden Episode #3003 from 10/12/98 transcript at=20 www.rebeccasgarden.com has this tip on ripening green tomatoes:=A0=20 =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 Shake Up Your Tomato Roots - take a garden fork and pu= sh it into the=20 ground about 12 inches from the stem of the tomato plant. =A0 Rock the fork=20 back and forth. =A0 Do this all the way around, being careful not to uproot=20= the=20 plant. =A0 Now by disturbing the root system, you have stressed the plant.=20= =A0=20 This will actually shut off any more energy that goes to growing larger=20 tomatoes. =A0 When you shut off the growing process, it turns on the ripenin= g=20 process. =A0 This works great if you do it a few weeks before your first=20 expected frost. =A0 If frost is in the forecast before they ripened be sure=20= to=20 harvest the tomatoes. Since your frost date is coming up fast you may want to take action soon. =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 To Ripen Green tomatoes off the vine - Line a shallow con= tainer with=20 newspaper, then, carefully, place the blemish-free tomatoes on top. =A0 Its=20 important not to let the tomatoes touch each other and do not wrap the=20 tomatoes with newspaper. =A0 Keep an eye on them in case of rot. =A0 Remove=20= any=20 spoiled tomatoes so you don't lose the whole bunch. The next step is to stor= e=20 them in a cool, dark location. =A0 When they start turning colors bring then= up=20 on your kitchen counter and you will soon have fresh ripe tomatoes. Lee Ann Aronson Master Gardener --part1_a2.2e92ad6e.2af82311_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable In a message dated 11/4/02 10:38:32 AM Central S= tandard Time, jkandell@sysmatrix.net writes:

I have some tomatoes th= at are just now turning from the green to the whitish stage. I hope to= ripen them before frost around Nov 27. Is there anything I can do to=20= hasten ripening?

JK--
Rebecca's Garden Episode #3003 from 10/12/98 transcript at www.rebeccasgarde= n.com has this tip on ripening green tomatoes:=A0

=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 Shake Up Your Tomato Roots - take a garden fork= and push it into the ground about 12 inches from the stem of the tomato pla= nt. =A0 Rock the fork back and forth. =A0 Do this all the way around, being=20= careful not to uproot the plant. =A0 Now by disturbing the root system, you=20= have stressed the plant. =A0 This will actually shut off any more energy tha= t goes to growing larger tomatoes. =A0 When you shut off the growing process= , it turns on the ripening process. =A0 This works great if you do it a few=20= weeks before your first expected frost. =A0 If frost is in the forecast befo= re they ripened be sure to harvest the tomatoes.

Since your frost date is coming up fast you may want to take action soon.
=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 To Ripen Green tomatoes off the vine - Line a shal= low container with newspaper, then, carefully, place the blemish-free tomato= es on top. =A0 Its important not to let the tomatoes touch each other and do= not wrap the tomatoes with newspaper. =A0 Keep an eye on them in case of ro= t. =A0 Remove any spoiled tomatoes so you don't lose the whole bunch. The ne= xt step is to store them in a cool, dark location. =A0 When they start turni= ng colors bring then up on your kitchen counter and you will soon have fresh= ripe tomatoes.

Lee Ann Aronson
Master Gardener

--part1_a2.2e92ad6e.2af82311_boundary-- From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Mon Nov 4 23:05:17 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 16:05:17 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus trees, pruning Message-ID: <004901c28456$a5697140$4904e043@ibmbna6040> Removing dead branches from your citrus tree can be done any time. Check out this site for info on watering your citrus: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: kleinaz@msn.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, November 04, 2002 9:38 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >HELP. I have two citrus trees, one orange & one grapefruit. I have alot of dead branches in the orange tree. When is the month to cut them out? On the grapefruit tree, I have yellow leaves. Too much water or not enough? I have no clue. Thanks. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Mon Nov 4 23:22:57 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 16:22:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Corrective Pruning Message-ID: <005401c28459$1d203140$4904e043@ibmbna6040> Correcting your Ficus nitida that has been pruned as a hedge is a difficult if not impossible job. I suggest that you call in a Certified Arborist for an appraisal. He would certainly be the best qualified to do the job if it can be done. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: g.ross@mindspring.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, November 04, 2002 10:05 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >We have two Ficus Nitinda(sp?) trees that need the help of an arborist or someone who is capable with with this variety. The trees are healthy but they have unfortunently been trimmed as large hedges for about 5 years. They need to be opened up and trimmed to look like a tree but I want someone who has experience with the proper approach to this tree variety rather than the guy traveling down the street with a pickup truck and a chain saw. These trees are the focal point in our back yard so the outcome is important to us. Any recommendations? >Sincerly >Gary Ross > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From sbeckma1523@earthlink.net Mon Nov 4 23:16:23 2002 From: sbeckma1523@earthlink.net (sbeckma1523@earthlink.net) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 16:16:23 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211042316.gA4NGNN09028@Ag.arizona.edu> Seven year old Arizona Ash tree has about six holes bored about the size of a pencil eraser where the limbs meet the trunk. What is doing this and what can be done about it? Thanks for your information. From imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net Mon Nov 4 23:28:08 2002 From: imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 16:28:08 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] speeding up ripening tomatoes? References: Message-ID: <004501c28459$d96cd7e0$a453530c@delljor9501> Cool weather, short days and reduced sunlight will lengthen the time to ripen. I have kept tomato plants alive all winter and some of the fruit from November stayed green all winter and did not ripen until late February. I do not believe the plants expend much energy in the ripening process. And I doubt that removing blossoms will have much of an effect. With your cool Tucson weather, it isn't likely that the blossoms will set fruit so wouldn't hurt to remove them. I would pick some of the "whitish" fruits and place them in a paper grocery bag to ripen. Sunlight would be best - here the sun is still pretty intense at mid afternoon but it might be okay in Tucson. Some of people pick and fry green tomatoes. Olin From copper@bargainsail.com Tue Nov 5 01:43:28 2002 From: copper@bargainsail.com (Copper Bittner) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 18:43:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Corrective Pruning In-Reply-To: <200211041650.gA4Go3N27089@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: To make it easier for you to follow Rod's advice, below is a link to use. http://www.isa-arbor.com/arborists/arbsearch.html This is a site with additional links for almost any horticultural questions. It is part of the University of Arizona County Extension website. Lot's of good browsing is here. Copper Bittner Master Gardener/Maricopa County Chandler AZ -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of g.ross@mindspring.com Sent: Monday, November 04, 2002 9:50 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have two Ficus Nitinda(sp?) trees that need the help of an arborist or someone who is capable with with this variety. The trees are healthy but they have unfortunently been trimmed as large hedges for about 5 years. They need to be opened up and trimmed to look like a tree but I want someone who has experience with the proper approach to this tree variety rather than the guy traveling down the street with a pickup truck and a chain saw. These trees are the focal point in our back yard so the outcome is important to us. Any recommendations? Sincerly Gary Ross _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From 4landm@cox.net Tue Nov 5 02:38:48 2002 From: 4landm@cox.net (Lee and Myrna) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 19:38:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sweet Brooms Message-ID: <000e01c28474$78241aa0$79246244@ph.cox.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C28439.CB7A7E00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have 4 shrubs called Cytisus spachianus. I have had them planted for = about 6 months and they seem to be stalled and on the verge of not = growing. Looking quite stalky and dropping leaves. I have tried = several amendments to the soil, including First Step and not getting to = good of results. The plants common name is Sweet Brooms. Any = suggestions? Lee ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C28439.CB7A7E00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I have 4 shrubs called = Cytisus=20 spachianus. I have had them planted for about 6 months and they = seem to be=20 stalled and on the verge of not growing. Looking quite stalky and = dropping=20 leaves. I have tried several amendments to the soil, including = First Step=20 and not getting to good of results. The plants common name is = Sweet=20 Brooms. Any suggestions?

Lee
------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C28439.CB7A7E00-- From labs5@cox.net Tue Nov 5 16:13:20 2002 From: labs5@cox.net (labs5@cox.net) Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 09:13:20 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211051613.gA5GDKN20172@Ag.arizona.edu> Help - My compost pile has been invaded by small red ants and I think their starting a new world in there! Is there anyway to organically get rid of them? I tried diatomaceous earth which didn't seem to do anything. I never had this problem with other compost piles. From imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net Tue Nov 5 20:40:49 2002 From: imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 13:40:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Ants in Compost References: <200211051613.gA5GDKN20172@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000a01c2850b$a7c930f0$e852530c@delljor9501> Some people believe ants in compost are beneficial. They feed on all sorts of stuff and drag it into the pile and move it around. But the little red ants have a sharp bite and are usually not encouraged. They will usually only move in if the compost pile is relatively dry. The first step might be prevention by keeping the pile working, i.e., moist and hot but it appears to be too late for that. If you can locate the nest you can kill the ants with boiling water but that is only temporary and will not wipe out the colony.. Orange peels or lemon rinds blended with water works for some people. Boric acid works but you would not want in it your vegetable garden soil. Many of the commercial organic controls contain boric acid. Amdro is very effective but doesn't meet your organic requirement. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > Help - My compost pile has been invaded by small red ants and I think their starting a new world in there! Is there anyway to organically get rid of them? I tried diatomaceous earth which didn't seem to do anything. I never had this problem with other compost piles. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From kgpauley@cox.net Wed Nov 6 01:56:34 2002 From: kgpauley@cox.net (kgpauley@cox.net) Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2002 18:56:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211060156.gA61uYN28235@Ag.arizona.edu> I have sweet corn currently in the pollination stage. We received hail last week, but I don't think it damaged my crop to any great degree. My concern is the yellow to brown edge on the lower leaves of my stalks. Does this indicate a water issue, a nutrient issue, or perhaps a pest of some sort? From lirigloria@hotmail.com Wed Nov 6 04:55:41 2002 From: lirigloria@hotmail.com (gloria) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 00:55:41 -0400 Subject: [Arid_gardener] paalo verde seed Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C2852F.3B2F2DE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable please send information about germination palo verde seed does it germinate outside of dessert regions ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C2852F.3B2F2DE0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
please send information about = germination palo=20 verde seed

does it germinate outside of dessert=20 regions
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C2852F.3B2F2DE0-- From meljoyceevans@aol.com Wed Nov 6 22:22:04 2002 From: meljoyceevans@aol.com (meljoyceevans@aol.com) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 15:22:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211062222.gA6MM4N10259@Ag.arizona.edu> I am considering planting a grape vine and would appreciate guidance on the best for eating, when and where to plant and plant care. I live in the Chandler area. Thank you very much. From colettecb@cox.net Wed Nov 6 23:58:33 2002 From: colettecb@cox.net (colettecb@cox.net) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 16:58:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211062358.gA6NwXN29675@Ag.arizona.edu> I recently moved to Arizona and am unsure of which plants and flowers I need cover during the winter to prevent frost damage. Is there a list available anywhere? (Some of the flowering shrubs I have are: hibiscus, bougainvilla, lantana, gardenia, ruellia.) Thank you very much! From w81269@msn.com Thu Nov 7 01:35:27 2002 From: w81269@msn.com (w81269@msn.com) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 18:35:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211070135.gA71ZRN13100@Ag.arizona.edu> What do I need to do to move a 5' saguaro roughly 150'? From W81269@msn.com Thu Nov 7 01:59:00 2002 From: W81269@msn.com (W. Hunter) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 18:59:00 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] saguaro Message-ID: ------=_NextPart_001_0001_01C285C6.91353F80 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" What do I need to know to relocate a 5' saguaro 150'? Thank you-William ------=_NextPart_001_0001_01C285C6.91353F80 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
What do I need= to know to relocate a 5' saguaro 150'?

Than= k you-William

------=_NextPart_001_0001_01C285C6.91353F80-- From Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com Thu Nov 7 15:31:39 2002 From: Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com (Zelhart Alan-rpcs30) Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 08:31:39 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] What plants need frost protection... Message-ID: <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B99307040511EF@az33exm25.corp.mot.com> Collette, What part of Arizona are you in? Assuming you are in Metro-Phoenix, the bougainvillea and the lantana might receive some frost damage, I don't cover them, they tend to grow like crazy anyway, so in the spring, I just cut off all the dead growth. I have never had either die completely from frost. It seems mostly just tender new growth can be frost bit. I suspect the Gardenia as well, although I have never grown that myself. My Hibiscus have never had any problem with winter kill from frost in Metro-Phoenix. I'm not aware of a list, but I bet someone here is, and can better address that question :) -- Chat with you later... ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 *** Check out all the new Garden Pics from around the world - "My Friends Gardens" *** http://www.GardenersCorner.com If you live to the age of a hundred you have it made because very few people die past the age of a hundred. - George Burns -----Original Message----- From: colettecb@cox.net [mailto:colettecb@cox.net] Sent: Wednesday, November 06, 2002 4:59 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I recently moved to Arizona and am unsure of which plants and flowers I need cover during the winter to prevent frost damage. Is there a list available anywhere? (Some of the flowering shrubs I have are: hibiscus, bougainvilla, lantana, gardenia, ruellia.) Thank you very much! _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Nov 7 22:36:33 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 22:36:33 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] saguaro transplant Message-ID: Cacti are usually transplanted in the warm summer months rather than in fall/winter. How Do I Move A Saguaro? (reprinted from the Arizona Sonora Desert Museum Botany Helpline) If you are moving a saguaro on your own property, no legal tag is required. However, if you want to move a saguaro from someone else's property to yours, a native plant tag issued by the Arizona Department of Agriculture is required, along with the landowner's written permission. A 6-foot tall saguaro can weigh several hundred pounds and requires a few people to move it safely. First, mark the south side of the plant so it will be replanted in the original orientation. Use lengths of old garden hose to wrap around the saguaro - these act as handles. Dig out the plant by digging a donut-shaped hole around it, starting at least 12-18 inches from the base. Use a saw to cut the larger roots. Anchoring roots go straight down, so undercut about 2 feet deep, then gently lay the plant down. If it is not planted immediately, cover to protect from sunburn. Use a saw and pruners to neatly cut all roots to minimize the exposed wounds. Replant the saguaro at the same depth as it was originally growing. Fill in with sandy soil and tamp in well. Water after a couple of weeks or so and continue to water every few weeks. An armless saguaro, well planted, should not require staking. Large rocks at the base can help stabilize the plant if it becomes unsteady. Watch for sunburning and cover the saguaro with shade cloth if needed. There's a large saguaro in my yard that fell down after the last storm. What should I do? You have three options (assuming the plant is 8-10 feet tall). It can be left in place and you can enjoy the natural decay cycle unfold over the next several weeks. The saguaro can be cut up into small, 1-2 foot-long sections and disposed of like other landscape waste. If it is unbroken and the roots are not torn away from the plant's base, it may be possible to upright and replant it. This procedure requires machinery and careful planning. Contact a landscape professional for help. -------- I believe the Desert Botanical Garden has excellent advice (and success) moving saguaro. Give them a call. Linda Drew Pima County Master Gardener >From: "W. Hunter" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] saguaro >Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 18:59:00 -0700 > >What do I need to know to relocate a 5' saguaro 150'? > >Thank you-William _________________________________________________________________ STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Nov 7 22:44:55 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 22:44:55 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] cold tolereance Message-ID: Check your library or bookstore for the "Pruning, Planting and Care" book by Eric A. Johnson. It has lots of great information, including a table of cold tolerances. hibiscus 15-25 degrees F. bougainvilla 28-30 lantana 28 gardenia 20-22 ruellia 28 Bougainvillea, lantana and ruellia are often allowed to freeze back to the ground; they will regrow in the spring. Hibiscus and gardenia probably need cold protection. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: colettecb@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 16:58:33 -0700 (MST) > >I recently moved to Arizona and am unsure of which plants and flowers I >need cover during the winter to prevent frost damage. Is there a list >available anywhere? (Some of the flowering shrubs I have are: hibiscus, >bougainvilla, lantana, gardenia, ruellia.) Thank you very much! > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Nov 7 23:25:30 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 23:25:30 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] grapes Message-ID: Here in Tucson we grow black beauty, flame and Thompson's seedless very successfully. Thompson, Flame, BlackMonukka and Perlette were listed as good for table grapes and raisin-making. Cardinal and Exotic were suggested for table or jelly. Concord can do well. Here is aresponse to an earlier question: We have a publication called Backyard Grapes which you can order from the Cooperative Extension service. The publication is number MC 59 and you can view information on ordering it at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Some branches of the library have a binder containing our publications. If you choose to check there, ask the librarian for binder 635 General Reference. The title is Horticulture Publications. Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 (602) 470-8086 ext. 301 8:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. Monday through Friday --------------- Some additional information I found in the book Desert Gardening, by George Brookbank is that when you plant your grape, you should dig a big hole at least 2 feet square x 2 feet deep. Get through any caliche. Then backfill with soil mixed with compost or steer manure, ammonium phosphate and sulphur. He says 1-1/2 cubic feet of compost or steer manure, 2 lbs of sulphur and 1/2 lb of ammonium phosphate. This book has quite a bit of information of growing grapes. You might want to take a look at a copy. Sue Bass Master Gardener ----------- Grapes grow very well here in souther Arizona. They are easy to start from cuttings in January. I'm layering them into 5 gallon pots now ~ cuttings are difficult except in the winter. George Brookbanks "Desert Gardening" lists varieties that do well in Tuscon. My experience is only with Thompson, Flame and Ruby Seedless here near Phoenix. You want to grow them enough away from any structure so that you can walk around them without touching them. The grape leaf skeletonizer can be a big problem; it's fuzz is very irritating to my skin; however, the birds have cleaned them up without my having to do a thing to control them at all. My plants are inside a cage which can be bird proof during grape production. Grapes provide wonderful shade and an evaporative cooler effect for strawberries, however, grapes need to have water withheld in the fall to help them become dormant just exactly when strawberries are making runners and gathering strength for next spring's crop. A better companion plant for grapes is asparagus. Grapes make too much shade to be anywhere except north or west of vegetables. Since they are fairly permanent, you need to plan for future garden efforts before planting them. I prefer Flame and Ruby because Thompson needs to have 10 buds left after pruning in order to make grapes.....this is called "cane pruning" rather than spur pruning which can be done with Flame and Ruby. The spur pruning is easier for me. Good luck. Dawn Kazmer ------------ Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: meljoyceevans@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 15:22:04 -0700 (MST) > >I am considering planting a grape vine and would appreciate guidance on the >best for eating, when and where to plant and plant care. I live in the >Chandler area. Thank you very much. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Nov 7 23:29:45 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 23:29:45 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] paalo verde seed Message-ID: I do not have information about growing palo verde ouutside desert regions, but imagine they would need cold protection in most areas. Here is a response to an earlier question: Most seeds get a better start if they are scarified in some way. In the wild, they may have been softened by acid in the gut-track of an animal or otherwise chipped against rocks in a wash after a rain. Try to file the outside of the seed a bit. Maybe even soaking a few in water to see if they sprout better than others. Since you will probably be starting these in containers, I don't see why you couldn't begin now. Linda Guy Master Gardener -------------- Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "gloria" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] paalo verde seed >Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 00:55:41 -0400 > >please send information about germination palo verde seed >does it germinate outside of dessert regions _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Nov 7 23:41:13 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 23:41:13 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sweet Brooms Message-ID: I don't have direct experience with sweet broom. a failure to grow can be the result of too much or too little water, or perhaps soil in contact with the bark (planted too deeply). Check the watering schedule using a moisture meter and a soil probe. Dig at the base of the roots and you should find roots in the first inch -- pull soil away if you don't. The problem could also be caused if the plant was rootbound when you planted -- did you notice roots circling the pot? You probably don't want to add fertilizers or additional amendments now. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Lee and Myrna" <4landm@cox.net> >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sweet Brooms >Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2002 19:38:48 -0700 > >I have 4 shrubs called Cytisus spachianus. I have had them planted for >about 6 months and they seem to be stalled and on the verge of not growing. > Looking quite stalky and dropping leaves. I have tried several >amendments to the soil, including First Step and not getting to good of >results. The plants common name is Sweet Brooms. Any suggestions? > >Lee _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Nov 7 23:48:30 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 23:48:30 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus prunig and care Message-ID: Response to a similar question: Citrus should never be pruned except to remove dead wood or to keep the tree within bounds, or to remove sucker growth from below the graft.The pruning can be done any time however spring is the preferable time. Do not ever take off more than 25% at any time or more than 1/3 in one year. An excellent bulletin titled Citrus Trees in the Home Garden is available from the U. of A. Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix, 85040 for one dollar. This bulletin addresses all phases of citrus care. Good luck. Rod ------------------ Since you have many dead branches, carefully check your irrigation plan. ou can view an excellent publication on irrigating citrus at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Sue Bass Master Gardener ------------------- Yellow leaves can be the result of too much water, too little water, nutrient deficiency or just normal aging. The above publications should help. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: kleinaz@msn.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2002 17:29:33 -0700 (MST) > >HELP. I have two citrus trees, one orange & one grapefruit. I have alot of >dead branches in the orange tree. When is the month to cut them out? On the >grapefruit tree, I have yellow leaves. Too much water or not enough? I have >no clue. Thanks. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From pcullan@hotmail.com Fri Nov 8 05:08:30 2002 From: pcullan@hotmail.com (pcullan@hotmail.com) Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 22:08:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211080508.gA858UN24101@Ag.arizona.edu> I am interested in building square gardening planters at out school, with a little help from some other parents. I am considering using the new wood made out of recycled milk bottles and cedar shavings. Called Trek (I think) Has anyone out there tried this new wood yet? Any idea on costs, longevity, etc? Thanks, Pam From Trxienme@cox.net Fri Nov 8 17:42:43 2002 From: Trxienme@cox.net (Trxienme@cox.net) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 10:42:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211081742.gA8HghN04436@Ag.arizona.edu> We had several mature saguaro cacti translanted onto our property this August. The nurseryman stated not to do additional watering. We notice that they are turning yellowish with soft spongy skin. Please advise. From webmaster@amwest-travel.com Fri Nov 8 20:41:18 2002 From: webmaster@amwest-travel.com (webmaster@amwest-travel.com) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 13:41:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211082041.gA8KfIN13508@Ag.arizona.edu> I've had a successful vegetable garden in Phoenix for years. Last few years, I've had problems with plants stunted and dying, leaves browning from bottom up. Melon and eggplant were once prolific; now can't grow at all. Tomatos and peppers still grow but plants are stunted. Tried peas this fall; they grew a few inches and died. This year, insects were clearly NOT the problem. I assume problem is salinity or alkaline soil. How can I tell? How do I resolve the problem? Thanks, Joe From azrish@cs.com Fri Nov 8 21:18:04 2002 From: azrish@cs.com (azrish@cs.com) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 14:18:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211082118.gA8LI4N20968@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a problem with white flies on my grapevines. What is the best way to control these? From cstephens@infinet-is.com Fri Nov 8 22:04:34 2002 From: cstephens@infinet-is.com (Charles Stephens) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 15:04:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Stunted/Dying References: <200211082041.gA8KfIN13508@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <002801c28772$d34f3440$bd86dfd1@default> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0025_01C28738.25E554E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Joe, It sounds like the problem could be root knot nematodes. I suggest that = you look at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/diseases/az1187.pdf. This = publication describes the nasty little critters and gives directions for = sampling roots and soil. If you decide to send a sample to the plant = pathology lab., be sure to follow the sampling instructions carefully. I that hope my tentative diagnosis is wrong! Good Luck, Charlie Stephens Master Gardener Phoenix ----- Original Message -----=20 From: webmaster@amwest-travel.com=20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Friday, November 08, 2002 1:41 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I've had a successful vegetable garden in Phoenix for years. Last few years, I've had problems with plants stunted and dying, leaves browning from bottom up. Melon and eggplant were once prolific; now can't grow at all. Tomatos and peppers still grow but plants are stunted. Tried peas this fall; they grew a few inches and died. This year, insects were clearly NOT the problem. I assume problem is salinity or alkaline soil. How can I tell? How do I resolve the problem? Thanks, Joe _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener ------=_NextPart_000_0025_01C28738.25E554E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Joe,

It sounds like the problem could be = root knot=20 nematodes. I suggest that you look at http://ag.arizona= .edu/pubs/diseases/az1187.pdf.=20 This publication describes the nasty little critters and gives = directions for=20 sampling roots and soil. If you decide to send a sample to the plant = pathology=20 lab., be sure to follow the sampling instructions = carefully.

I that hope my tentative diagnosis is=20 wrong!

Good Luck,

Charlie Stephens
Master=20 Gardener
Phoenix

----- Original Message -----
From:=20 webmaster@amwest-travel.com =
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu =

Sent: Friday, November 08, 2002 = 1:41=20 PM

Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Question from=20 Home-Hort WWW page

I've had a successful vegetable garden in = Phoenix
for years.=20 Last few years, I've had problems
with plants stunted and dying, = leaves=20 browning from
bottom up. Melon and eggplant were once prolific;=20 now
can't grow at all. Tomatos and peppers still grow but
plants = are=20 stunted. Tried peas this fall; they grew a
few inches and died. = This year,=20 insects were clearly
NOT the problem. I assume problem is salinity=20 or
alkaline soil. How can I tell? How do I resolve
the = problem? =20 Thanks,=20 = Joe

_______________________________________________
Arid_garden= er=20 mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu=
http://Ag.A= rizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
------=_NextPart_000_0025_01C28738.25E554E0-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Nov 8 22:39:14 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 08 Nov 2002 22:39:14 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] whiteflies on grape Message-ID: check out this website for information on whiteflies: http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/insects/whiteflies.html "The control method that has been shown to be most effective to date for homeowners is a spray of detergent and water. Because this mix may harm certain plants, it is best to start with one teaspoon of liquid detergent per gallon of water and spray a few leaves. Wait at least twelve hours, and check the plant. If there are no signs of wilting or burning, go ahead and spray the whole plant. If the plant seems to tolerate the low dose, the next time you may want to gradually increase the dosage per gallon with each spray, up to 2 tablespoons per gallon. Make sure to cover the underside of leaves where the immatures are hidden. Repeat every three to four days as needed. Lawn and garden supply stores will carry soap sprays that require little or no mixing. Whiteflies may be excluded from garden beds using polyethylene row covers. Whitefly numbers should decrease naturally as the weather becomes cooler." Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: azrish@cs.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 14:18:04 -0700 (MST) > >I have a problem with white flies on my grapevines. What is the best way >to control these? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From Norman.Kur@aps.com Fri Nov 8 23:00:06 2002 From: Norman.Kur@aps.com (Kur, Norman (Z57968)) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 16:00:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Watering Schedules Message-ID: I have a question about watering schedules. Basically, over the past few months I had so many issues with my sprinkler/irrigation system that I finally replaced the whole thing. Now, my system consists of 6 zones and I wanted to ask you how often I should water each of them, i.e., how many days per week and for how many minutes. Also, could you please differentiate between summer and winter schedules? Thank you very much for any advice you can provide. Zones 1, 2 and 3 are for my bermuda grass lawn. I have decided not to plant winter grass this year in order to be water conscious. Zone 4 is a drip line with 1 gallon per hour emitters that provide water to all plants, bushes and shrubs. There are rose bushes, hedges of some kind and a couple of other bushes/plants. Zone 5 is a drip line (also with 1 gal/hour emitters) providing water to all non-pine trees, e.g. palms, sumacs and one mesquite tree. Zone 6 is also a drop line (1 gal/hour emitters) providing water to all pine trees. I know this is a lot to ask of you, but again, any advise or help you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again. Norm Kur From deschu@cox.net Sat Nov 9 03:30:19 2002 From: deschu@cox.net (deschu@cox.net) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 20:30:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211090330.gA93UJN18276@Ag.arizona.edu> My eight year old "century plant" died. It had six baby plants around it. It rotted from the bottom although there was no water on it. How do I transplant them? Why did the mother plant die? From penderpaige1@earthlink.net Sat Nov 9 04:42:13 2002 From: penderpaige1@earthlink.net (Paige Lycett) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 20:42:13 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit tree Message-ID: <000d01c287aa$60890de0$1e7879a5@your6kr4zxld90> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C28767.5164FFB0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Dear Arid Gardener, We just arrived at our new digs in Palm Springs to find the grapefruit = and lemon tree looking a little 'off color'. Seems some of the leaves = are turning yellow and dropping. Is this normal for this time of year = or do you think we might have a problem? We know nothing about citrus = so started with the internet. If you have time could you possibly give us some suggestions. Thanks, Janet ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C28767.5164FFB0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Dear Arid Gardener,

We just arrived at our new digs = in Palm=20 Springs to find the grapefruit and lemon tree looking a little 'off=20 color'. Seems some of the leaves are turning yellow and = dropping. Is=20 this normal for this time of year or do you think we might have a = problem? =20 We know nothing about citrus so started with the internet.

   If you have time could you = possibly=20 give us some suggestions.

Thanks,

Janet
------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C28767.5164FFB0-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Nov 9 12:48:26 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 09 Nov 2002 12:48:26 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen palms, center sprout breaking Message-ID: Robert, The center sprout is the only active growing point for a palm, so damage to this sprout could be serious. We have a publication which you can view on line at the following site: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Ornamentals It is called Arizona Landscape Palms, publication AZ1021. The brochure provides not only information on specific palms but also care of established palms and diseases and insect pests. This particular section includes symptoms and cultural treatment. I hope this information will assist you in a diagnosis of your palm's particular problem. (information from Sue Bass, Master Gardener) Doctoring sick Queen Palms is not a do it your self project. I would recommend that you contact a Certified Arborist to get an opinion on whether or not the tree can be saved and the cost of treatment. Palms do not handle well fertilizer that is high in phosphorus and most Miracle Grows that I ve seen in the stores are 15-30-15. Palms require a special palm fertilizer. (information from Rod McKusick, Master Gardener and Arborist) Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: beatrice@extremezone.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 17:38:59 -0700 (MST) > >Queen Palms: > Some of my palms droop more than others, and the new >center sprout frequently bends or breaks in the wind. >These trees are only slightly less green than their healthy >neighbors, look otherwise healthy, not too subburned, and soil >is getting moisture. >Any suggestions? >Thanks for your help >Sincerely, >Robert > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Nov 9 13:00:40 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 09 Nov 2002 13:00:40 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] saguaro cactus transplant Message-ID: Saguaro cactus transplant: You may wish to contact the Desert Botanical Gardens or the Arizona Sonora Desert Museum and talk to their horticulturalists who specialize in cacti. Following is some information. from the Arizona Sonora Desert Museum -- Mark the south side of the plant so it will be replanted in the original orientation. (do you know if this was done?) Replant the saguaro at the same depth as it was originally growing. Fill in with sandy soil and tamp in well. Water after a couple of weeks or so and continue to water every few weeks. An armless saguaro, well planted, should not require staking. Large rocks at the base can help stabilize the plant if it becomes unsteady. Watch for sunburning and cover the saguaro with shade cloth if needed. ---------- The younger the cactus, the greater the odds of survival. Horticulturalists at the ASDM warn that if you acquire a saguaro over 4 feet, you're running about 50/50 odds that you've basically purchased a dying cactus (nurseries may guarantee them for a year--but they can take up to 10 years to die). ---------- Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Trxienme@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 10:42:43 -0700 (MST) > >We had several mature saguaro cacti translanted onto our property this >August. The nurseryman stated not to do additional watering. We notice >that they are turning yellowish with soft spongy skin. Please advise. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From caminos@spinxs.com Sat Nov 9 15:58:45 2002 From: caminos@spinxs.com (Mark Rhoades) Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 07:58:45 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Catclaw Acacia (Acacia greggii) Germination Message-ID: <002001c28808$f914c8c0$4a86bbd0@computer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001D_01C287C5.D4314120 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I am germinating several Catclaw acacia seeds. I am curious about the = manner in which the seeds are germinating. They are sending a root into = the soil as well as what appears to be another root upwards into the = air. The seed coatings are coming off and they are opening, however, = they continue to lie on their sides. The seeds were soaked overnight in = water and sown on their sides in containers about four days ago. I have never seen this occur before in all the years I have been growing = plants from seed. Can anyone tell me what might have caused this = phenomena and whether I will get viable plants from these germinating = seeds? Thank you. Mark Rhoades caminos@spinxs.com ------=_NextPart_000_001D_01C287C5.D4314120 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I am germinating several Catclaw acacia seeds. I = am=20 curious about the manner in which the seeds are germinating. They are = sending a=20 root into the soil as well as what appears to be another root upwards = into the=20 air. The seed coatings are coming off and they are opening, = however, they=20 continue to lie on their sides. The seeds were soaked overnight in = water=20 and sown on their sides in containers about four days ago.

I have never seen this occur before in all the = years I=20 have been growing plants from seed. Can anyone tell me what might have = caused=20 this phenomena and whether I will get viable plants from these = germinating=20 seeds?

Thank you.

Mark Rhoades

caminos@spinxs.com

------=_NextPart_000_001D_01C287C5.D4314120-- From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Sat Nov 9 21:07:10 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 14:07:10 -0700 Subject: Fw: [Arid_gardener] Watering Schedules Message-ID: <003b01c28833$f93e1420$2d2c0a3f@ibmbna6040> Norm, The following websites will answer your questions about watering your trees and plants: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html http://www.amwua.org/xscp-wateringschedules.htm Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: Kur, Norman (Z57968) To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Friday, November 08, 2002 4:14 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Watering Schedules >I have a question about watering schedules. Basically, over the past few months I had so many issues with my sprinkler/irrigation system that I finally replaced the whole thing. Now, my system consists of 6 zones and I wanted to ask you how often I should water each of them, i.e., how many days per week and for how many minutes. Also, could you please differentiate between summer and winter schedules? Thank you very much for any advice you can provide. > > >Zones 1, 2 and 3 are for my bermuda grass lawn. I have decided not to plant winter grass this year in order to be water conscious. > >Zone 4 is a drip line with 1 gallon per hour emitters that provide water to all plants, bushes and shrubs. There are rose bushes, hedges of some kind and a couple of other bushes/plants. > >Zone 5 is a drip line (also with 1 gal/hour emitters) providing water to all non-pine trees, e.g. palms, sumacs and one mesquite tree. > >Zone 6 is also a drop line (1 gal/hour emitters) providing water to all pine trees. > >I know this is a lot to ask of you, but again, any advise or help you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again. > >Norm Kur > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From terrific968@yahoo.com Sun Nov 10 00:29:55 2002 From: terrific968@yahoo.com (Terri Smith) Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 16:29:55 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] bouganvilla care Message-ID: <20021110002955.74366.qmail@web20303.mail.yahoo.com> --0-395105344-1036888195=:74259 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I just purchased a potted plant from the local hardware store, and it isn't doing very well. I have been watering it regularly, and have been giving it food, and there is new growth on the ends of the branches. I live in Palmdale, CA, which is in the desert. I understand that they like dry climates, but winter is coming on, and it is getting very cold overnight. Because of this, I keep it inside, but the leaves have paled, and they are falling off like hair! Help! Soon, or we might be discussing a dead plant! Thanks Terri --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive medley & videos from Greatest Hits CD --0-395105344-1036888195=:74259 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
I just purchased a potted plant from the local hardware store, and it isn't doing very well. I have been watering it regularly, and have been giving it food, and there is new growth on the ends of the branches.   I live in Palmdale, CA, which is in the desert. I understand that they like dry climates, but winter is coming on, and it is getting very cold overnight. Because of this, I keep it inside, but the leaves have paled, and they are falling off like hair! Help! Soon, or we might be discussing a dead plant!

Thanks

Terri

Do you Yahoo!?
U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive medley & videos from Greatest Hits CD --0-395105344-1036888195=:74259-- From ASUsped@aol.com Sun Nov 10 07:23:32 2002 From: ASUsped@aol.com (ASUsped@aol.com) Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 02:23:32 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] a clothes hanger to measure the depth of water Message-ID: <53.1f172909.2aff6374@aol.com> I've read in this list that after watering a plant we should measure the depth of water in the soil by inserting a screw driver or a rod, and the rod should go as deep as 3 feet with no resistance for trees and one foot for small plants. Can I use a metal clothes hanger to measure the depth of the water, instead of a rod or a screwdriver? I only saw tools in the nurseries that go as deep as 12" only.........Mike From OBONANZA@aol.com Sun Nov 10 13:42:58 2002 From: OBONANZA@aol.com (OBONANZA@aol.com) Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 08:42:58 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: --part1_bd.2a2149dc.2affbc62_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have a 25 ' sahuaro that so far has lost 2 huge arms, during a monsoon 2 yrs. ago & again this summer. The cavities on both are wide open. Should i clean them with bleach or sulphur to slow or prevent rot or infection? Some people in my area, (Green Valley) have them covered with wire mesh to keep birds out, others have them puttied up. Any suggestions / Jim O'Day --part1_bd.2a2149dc.2affbc62_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have a 25 ' sahuaro that so far has lost 2 huge arms, during a monsoon 2 yrs. ago & again this summer. The cavities on both are wide open. Should i clean them with bleach or sulphur to slow or prevent rot or infection? Some people in my area, (Green Valley) have them covered with wire mesh to keep birds out, others have them puttied up. Any suggestions /
Jim O'Day --part1_bd.2a2149dc.2affbc62_boundary-- From heartfelt@heartfeltreminders.com Sun Nov 10 16:03:47 2002 From: heartfelt@heartfeltreminders.com (heartfelt@heartfeltreminders.com) Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 09:03:47 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211101603.gAAG3lN22782@Ag.arizona.edu> I have discovered a large fungus (I believe) growing in main trunk joint of my fig tree. It is a yellow/brown wet-looking mound growing out of the spot where two main trunks branch out. The tree has been stressed, but I've had it treated every year and keep it well pruned and watered. Need to know how to safely eliminate the fungus and save the tree. I just love it. From arnies@jps.net Mon Nov 11 21:26:40 2002 From: arnies@jps.net (arnies@jps.net) Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 14:26:40 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211112126.gABLQeN13092@Ag.arizona.edu> We have a accia tree that is foaming and driping and we don't know what to do. Please advise is this normal or not. The tree is about 7 years old and it looks like it is foaming and driping out of cracks in the branches. From adhong@yahoo.com Tue Nov 12 04:19:17 2002 From: adhong@yahoo.com (adhong@yahoo.com) Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 21:19:17 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211120419.gAC4JHN04394@Ag.arizona.edu> I have cypress trees which are turning brown and droopy from the bottom up. The are not standing straight up anymore and are slouching. What is wrong and what can I do about it? From Cearbear7@aol.com Tue Nov 12 04:24:43 2002 From: Cearbear7@aol.com (Cearbear7@aol.com) Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 23:24:43 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] pecan tree Message-ID: --part1_b8.3117312c.2b01dc8b_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit My pecan tree planted 1 year ago now has brown leaves with a little new growth. It gets water every other day. I fertilized it once per month over the summer. What could be wrong with it? the leaves are half green with the tips brown. cearbear@juno.com --part1_b8.3117312c.2b01dc8b_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit My pecan tree planted 1 year ago now has brown leaves with a little new growth. It gets water every other day. I fertilized it once per month over the summer. What could be wrong with it? the leaves are half green with the tips brown.
cearbear@juno.com --part1_b8.3117312c.2b01dc8b_boundary-- From steph308@msn.com Tue Nov 12 04:25:30 2002 From: steph308@msn.com (steph308@msn.com) Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 21:25:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211120425.gAC4PUN04879@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a grape fruit tree that is only about 20 months since I planted it. It bore fruit last year and this year.(quite a lot for a young tree.It is healthy and the trunk has about doubled this year. But it is short and stocky. I can't seem to get it to get any height. What can I do to get it to grow tall and not short and stocky? From bradleyl@Ag.arizona.edu Sat Nov 9 06:08:13 2002 From: bradleyl@Ag.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Fri, 08 Nov 2002 23:08:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] GREENHOUSE CROP PRODUCTION SHORT COURSE 1/19-22 Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20021108230736.0412f210@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_299290==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed >7 GREENHOUSE CROP PRODUCTION SHORT COURSE > >The University of Arizona's Controlled Environment Agriculture Center >(CEAC) will present a short course on greenhouse crop production and >engineering design January 19-22, 2003 in Tucson, AZ. The continuing >education professional short course will include series on plant sciences, >engineering, and marketing presentations. Major production topics will >include nutrition, irrigation, pest management, marketing, and >environmental control. Crop-specific examples of hydroponic tomato or >floral plant production will also be presented. The program will highlight >state-of-the-art instructional computer technology supplemented with >handouts and laboratory demonstrations. >The program is limited to 100 attendees, so register early to ensure your >place. Registration costs $195 per participant and ends January 6. >For more information, visit CEAC's site at http://ag.arizona. edu/ceac/ or >contact Gene Giacomelli, 520-621-1412; fax 520-621-3691; e-mail giacomel@ >ag.arizona.edu. > Submitted by: gene giacomelli Email: giacomel@ag.arizona.edu > controlled environment agriculture center Phone: 621-1412 > For more information: http://ag.arizona.edu/ceac/extension/cpesJan03.htm ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens --=====================_299290==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

7 GREENHOUSE CROP PRODUCTION SHORT COURSE

The University of Arizona�s Controlled Environment Agriculture Center (CEAC) will present a short course on greenhouse crop production and engineering design January 19-22, 2003 in Tucson, AZ. The continuing education professional short course will include series on plant sciences, engineering, and marketing presentations. Major production topics will include nutrition, irrigation, pest management, marketing, and environmental control. Crop-specific examples of hydroponic tomato or floral plant production will also be presented. The program will highlight state-of-the-art instructional computer technology supplemented with handouts and laboratory demonstrations.
The program is limited to 100 attendees, so register early to ensure your place. Registration costs $195 per participant and ends January 6.
For more information, visit CEAC�s site at http://ag.arizona. edu/ceac/ or contact Gene Giacomelli, 520-621-1412; fax 520-621-3691; e-mail giacomel@ ag.arizona.edu.
    Submitted by: gene giacomelli    Email: giacomel@ag.arizona.edu
    controlled environment agriculture center    Phone: 621-1412
    For more information: http://ag.arizona.edu/ceac/extension/cpesJan03.htm

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807

Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax: (602) 470-8092
email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/
http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens

--=====================_299290==_.ALT-- From gizmoaz@cox.net Tue Nov 12 16:01:59 2002 From: gizmoaz@cox.net (gizmoaz@cox.net) Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 11:01:59 -0500 Subject: [Arid_gardener] a clothes hanger to measure the depth of water Message-ID: <20021112160159.SNPZ2201.fed1mtao03.cox.net@smtp.west.cox.net> Hi Mike, Go to Home Depot or some hardware store like that, and buy you a 4-5 foot piece of rebar. You can use that as a probe for seeing how far it inserts into the ground, and it will be a lot cheaper. You can by Rebar in various sizes there. -- Chat with you later... ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 *** Check out all the new Garden Pics from around the world - "My Friends Gardens" *** http://www.GardenersCorner.com Show me a milk man in high heels and I'll show you a Dairy Queen. > > From: ASUsped@aol.com > Date: 2002/11/10 Sun AM 02:23:32 EST > To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu > Subject: [Arid_gardener] a clothes hanger to measure the depth of water > > > I've read in this list that after watering a plant we should measure > the depth of water in the soil by inserting a screw driver or a rod, and the > rod should go as deep as 3 feet with no resistance for trees and one foot for > small plants. > > Can I use a metal clothes hanger to measure the depth of the water, > instead of a rod or a screwdriver? I only saw tools in the nurseries that go > as deep as 12" only.........Mike > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com Tue Nov 12 16:40:53 2002 From: Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com (Zelhart Alan-rpcs30) Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 09:40:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] a clothes hanger to measure the depth of wate r Message-ID: <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B9930704051432@az33exm25.corp.mot.com> Sorry to the moderators, but one thing I should add to this, bend the top portion of the rebar so that when pushing it down you do not poke a hole in your hand =) -- Chat with you later... ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 *** Check out all the new Garden Pics from around the world - "My Friends Gardens" *** http://www.GardenersCorner.com Hell was full, so I came back ! -----Original Message----- From: gizmoaz@cox.net [mailto:gizmoaz@cox.net] Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2002 9:02 AM To: ASUsped@aol.com; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] a clothes hanger to measure the depth of water Hi Mike, Go to Home Depot or some hardware store like that, and buy you a 4-5 foot piece of rebar. You can use that as a probe for seeing how far it inserts into the ground, and it will be a lot cheaper. You can by Rebar in various sizes there. From joeh@peoriaaz.com Tue Nov 12 19:36:38 2002 From: joeh@peoriaaz.com (joeh@peoriaaz.com) Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 12:36:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211121936.gACJacN25597@Ag.arizona.edu> Is it neccessary to keep moving the drip watering system outlet point to the trees canopy edge as it grows throughout the years? Canopy has grown beyond the 36" diameter hole I initially dug when planted. Now its into the native clayee soil which is quite compacted. Would it do any good if I augered down 24 inches, inserted a 1 inch multi-holed pvc pipe and attached the drip head to the pipe top at canopy edge? From lynne.guerrette@intel.com Tue Nov 12 22:59:14 2002 From: lynne.guerrette@intel.com (lynne.guerrette@intel.com) Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 15:59:14 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211122259.gACMxEN12479@Ag.arizona.edu> I planted 4 blue-tip junipers (from 1-gallon pots) last January, watered them according to the nursery's instructions, and saw them grow close to a foot by July. But then they began getting brown from the bottom up, and 3 out of four are now completely dried up despite continued watering. Did they just bake in the summer sun? I plan to replace the dead trees, but if the junipers were victims of our summer sun, what is an evergreen that can tolerate full exposure? I like the non-messiness of evergreens, but would consider other varieties that don't shed. From ronsueboe@sprintmail.com Wed Nov 13 01:01:14 2002 From: ronsueboe@sprintmail.com (ronsueboe@sprintmail.com) Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 18:01:14 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211130101.gAD11BN04937@Ag.arizona.edu> My 7 year old grapefruit tree has suddenly started to drop large numbers of leaves. They are not turning yellow but are simply wilting, curling and then drying up and falling off. The entire branch will loose all of it's leaves practically at the same time. This started less than a week ago and has affected mainly the lower branches but I have noticed a few upper branches starting to wilt as well. Does anyone have any suggestions? Does this sound like mesophyll collapse? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Nov 13 13:03:40 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 13:03:40 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Saguaro cavity Message-ID: Jim, Please call Pima County Office at 626-5161 for more information. If the cavities are calloused over, you probably do not need to treat them. Please do not put putty, cement or other materials in the holes as this can lead to more damage. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: OBONANZA@aol.com >To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) >Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 08:42:58 EST > >I have a 25 ' sahuaro that so far has lost 2 huge arms, during a monsoon 2 >yrs. ago & again this summer. The cavities on both are wide open. Should i >clean them with bleach or sulphur to slow or prevent rot or infection? Some >people in my area, (Green Valley) have them covered with wire mesh to keep >birds out, others have them puttied up. Any suggestions / >Jim O'Day _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Nov 13 13:07:48 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 13:07:48 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] pecan tree, salt burn Message-ID: The leaves you describe sound like they are showing symptoms of salt burn. You didn't say how deeply you water, but I would suggest you slow-soak the tree until water has penetrated to 3 feet deep and out to the canopy (drip line) or beyond. That should flush out excess salts in the soil. Pecans require a lot of water; contact your local Cooperative Extension Office for a brochure on care of pecan trees. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Cearbear7@aol.com >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] pecan tree >Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 23:24:43 EST > >My pecan tree planted 1 year ago now has brown leaves with a little new >growth. It gets water every other day. I fertilized it once per month over >the summer. What could be wrong with it? the leaves are half green with the >tips brown. >cearbear@juno.com _________________________________________________________________ STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Nov 13 13:12:00 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 13:12:00 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit tree, yellow leaves Message-ID: Yellow leaves could be caused from over or under watering plus other things. Some yellowing and leaf drop is normal this time of year. If you will advise the age of the tree, how much water and how often, thay will give us a clue as to the cause. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on citrus irrigation at the following website: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Paige Lycett" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit tree >Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 20:42:13 -0800 > >Dear Arid Gardener, > We just arrived at our new digs in Palm Springs to find the grapefruit >and lemon tree looking a little 'off color'. Seems some of the leaves are >turning yellow and dropping. Is this normal for this time of year or do >you think we might have a problem? We know nothing about citrus so started >with the internet. > If you have time could you possibly give us some suggestions. >Thanks, >Janet _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Nov 13 13:25:02 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 13:25:02 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] acacia tree, foam on trunk and branches Message-ID: The symptoms you describe could be the result of a decay fungus (collar, foot, root and crown rots) caused by an organism such as phtophthora. It could also be the result of a bacteriaial infection (wetwood, foamy canker). Call your local Cooperative Extension Office for more information. (look in the county pages of the phone book). Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: arnies@jps.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 14:26:40 -0700 (MST) > >We have a accia tree that is foaming and driping and we don't know what to >do. Please advise is this normal or not. The tree is about 7 years old and >it looks like it is foaming and driping out of cracks in the branches. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Nov 13 13:30:10 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 13:30:10 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] fungus on fig tree Message-ID: The fungus you describe could be Ganoderma, a heart rot disease. Can you bring a section of the fungus into your local Cooperative Extension Office for identification? (check the counyty pages in your phone book for location). Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: heartfelt@heartfeltreminders.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 09:03:47 -0700 (MST) > >I have discovered a large fungus (I believe) > growing in main trunk joint of my fig tree. >It is a yellow/brown wet-looking mound growing >out of the spot where two main trunks branch >out. >The tree has been stressed, but I've had it >treated every year and keep it well pruned >and watered. Need to know how to safely eliminate >the fungus and save the tree. I just love it. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Nov 13 13:36:04 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 13:36:04 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] bouganvillea care Message-ID: Bougainvillea likes full sun, and it does not require a lot of water and practically no fertilizer. If the roots are disturbed when it is planted it may never recover and grow. Since you are growing yours indoors, be sure it has ample bright light. Cut back on the watering and stop fertilizing. It will freeze back in cold weather but usually regrows as soon as warm weather returns. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Terri Smith >To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] bouganvilla care >Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 16:29:55 -0800 (PST) > > >I just purchased a potted plant from the local hardware store, and it isn't >doing very well. I have been watering it regularly, and have been giving >it food, and there is new growth on the ends of the branches. I live in >Palmdale, CA, which is in the desert. I understand that they like dry >climates, but winter is coming on, and it is getting very cold overnight. >Because of this, I keep it inside, but the leaves have paled, and they are >falling off like hair! Help! Soon, or we might be discussing a dead >plant! > >Thanks > > > > >Terri > > >--------------------------------- >Do you Yahoo!? >U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive medley & videos from Greatest Hits CD _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Nov 13 14:28:23 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 14:28:23 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] cypress/juniper turning brown Message-ID: Cypress should be allowed to dry out ( the soil ) between waterings; watering could be the problem with the cypress. Spider mites and or twig borers could also cause browning of the foliage. The mites can be controlled by a strong spray of water daily; in severe cases, spray with an insecticidal soap solution and repeat in 7-10 days. Check small branches for holes to determine if it might be a twig borer. If you fertilize, be sure to fertilize lightly in the spring. Master Gardener Manual website on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: adhong@yahoo.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 21:19:17 -0700 (MST) > >I have cypress trees which are turning brown and droopy from the bottom up. >The are not standing straight up anymore and are slouching. What is wrong >and what can I do about it? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus From rdtechs@goodrich.com Wed Nov 13 14:48:04 2002 From: rdtechs@goodrich.com (rdtechs@goodrich.com) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 07:48:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211131448.gADEm4N15857@Ag.arizona.edu> We were wondering about the tiny corn like you see is Chinese food. Does it grow like "normal" corn on big stalks? Are seeds available to grow it? What is it really called? Mark From imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net Wed Nov 13 17:14:17 2002 From: imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 10:14:17 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Baby Corn References: <200211131448.gADEm4N15857@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <004e01c28b38$50f30b10$2d52530c@delljor9501> You can grow it from some of the regular types of sweet corn or there are varieties developed so the baby corn can be harvested before the ears get too large after which it loses it baby corn status. Some seed companies with web sites carry it. Go to www.parkseed.com and type 5530 in the search window, then when the next page comes up click on the "Corn Bonus Hybrid" link for a good photo and description. A Washington State University Extension Pub. explains it pretty well at: http://cru.cahe.wsu.edu/CEPublications/pnw0532/pnw0532.pdf You can also find lots more info with a google search using keywords "baby corn". Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > We were wondering about the tiny corn like you see is Chinese food. Does it grow like "normal" corn on big stalks? Are seeds available to grow it? What is it really called? From carolpeluso@tch-az.com Wed Nov 13 17:32:33 2002 From: carolpeluso@tch-az.com (carolpeluso@tch-az.com) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 10:32:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211131732.gADHWXN24608@Ag.arizona.edu> How can I determine the Nitrogen, Phosphorus & Pottasium values in "compost tea"? From chcarmean@cox.net Wed Nov 13 18:32:08 2002 From: chcarmean@cox.net (chcarmean@cox.net) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 11:32:08 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211131832.gADIW8N09862@Ag.arizona.edu> Our HOA (in Scottsdale) is seeking a replacement for a large fountain in our common area. The site is circular, about 20 feet in diameter, and built up about two feet and contained by a retaining wall. I would like your suggestions for a tree or desert plant that could be planted as a focal point for the area. Clearly we are seeking a relatively large specimen that would be attractive throughout the year. The site is in the sun most of the day. Water is available We are willing to spend in the $2500 area. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Nov 13 20:23:07 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 20:23:07 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] compost tea Message-ID: according to "Secrets to Great Soil" by Elizabeth P. Stell: "compost tea supplies only low levels of major nutrients (N-P-K), it's good for a micronutrient boost." (commercial compost is about 1-1-1) Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: carolpeluso@tch-az.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 10:32:33 -0700 (MST) > >How can I determine the Nitrogen, Phosphorus & Pottasium values in "compost >tea"? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Nov 13 20:32:14 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 20:32:14 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] citrus losing leaves Message-ID: There are many possible causes, often watering practices or diesease. Following is an answer to an earlier question that will give you resources to help find the cause. Check watering, soil buildup against trunk, and any sign of sap or oozing. Citrus Trees are subject to several diseases including Root Rot, Foot Rot and Gummosis. The symptons include sap oozing from the trunk or branches and defoliation. Prevention is the best approach to controlling most citrus diseases. Proper watering is important to controlling diseases. Let soil dry out partially between watering and don't allow water to stand against the trunk. If necessary, remove soil away from the trunk and create a gentle slope so water can drain away. Clean up falllen leaves from under your trees. The County has several good docs to help you with your citrus. The * docs are avail online at the web site below. Others are avail for $1 at the address below. CITRUS *AZ1001 Low Desert Citrus Varieties *AZ1146 Budding Citrus Trees *AZ1151 Irrigating Citrus Trees *AZ1154 Diseases of Citrus in Arizona MC8 Recovery of Neglected Citrus Trees MC17 Irrigation Needs of Citrus MC65 Quality Citrus Trees MC91 Fertilizing Citrus Trees Q191 Phytophthora Foot Rot of Citrus 8670 Fertilizing Citrus Trees in Arizona http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Hope this helps GG >From: ronsueboe@sprintmail.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 18:01:14 -0700 (MST) > >My 7 year old grapefruit tree has suddenly started >to drop large numbers of leaves. They are not turning >yellow but are simply wilting, curling and then drying >up and falling off. The entire branch will loose all of >it's leaves practically at the same time. This started >less than a week ago and has affected mainly the lower >branches but I have noticed a few upper branches >starting to wilt as well. Does anyone have any suggestions? >Does this sound like mesophyll collapse? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From kainass@cox.net Wed Nov 13 20:36:30 2002 From: kainass@cox.net (kainass@cox.net) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 13:36:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211132036.gADKaUN08644@Ag.arizona.edu> I am in the process of re-landscaping my house. I am putting up a block wall along my alley and plan on putting a row of ornamental orange trees along it to create a taller buffer. My questions is, what is the difference between a 5 gallon ($20) ornamental orange tree and a 15 gallon ($90)one. How much shorter, how much younger? Is it worth it to spend the extra money for the 15 gallon. Any help would be appreciated. THANKS!!! From merisea@earthlink.net Thu Nov 14 03:12:03 2002 From: merisea@earthlink.net (merisea@earthlink.net) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 20:12:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211140312.gAE3C3N20859@Ag.arizona.edu> My 15yr old lemon bottlebrush plantings used as screening on southeast and southwest corners of property are showing die out and it appears that this is very serious threatening loss of these valued shrubs. Leaves and limbs totally dry out. any idea why this is happening? Can it be the increase in our temperatures or is their a disease problem below soil, no visible other signs on leaves. HELP. From isaiah58@cgmailbox.com Thu Nov 14 07:11:59 2002 From: isaiah58@cgmailbox.com (White O' Mornin') Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 00:11:59 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] grapes References: Message-ID: <000601c28bad$21f802a0$7b57fecf@robertde> Speaking of grapes; Mine are just under one year in the ground. I bought them bare rooted, recently built them a large arbor and they are only about two x two feet, at present. However, they are loosing their leaves already. I realize that they are deciduous but isn't it a bit early, and warm, for them to do that in Arizona? Or are mine ill? I haven't noticed any unusual pests or fungus' about them. Just dropping their leaves and looking bad. Maybe they need more watering? Please, help and advise? ~Rachel~ Better Dogs, Goats 'n Gardens (of White O'Mornin' Farm) Arizona Zone - 13 We may not know what the future holds but, we can trust the one who holds the future! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Linda Drew" To: ; Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2002 4:25 PM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] grapes > Here in Tucson we grow black beauty, flame and Thompson's seedless > very successfully. > > Thompson, Flame, BlackMonukka and Perlette were listed as good for table > grapes and raisin-making. Cardinal and Exotic were suggested > for table or jelly. Concord can do well. > > > Here is aresponse to an earlier question: > > We have a publication called Backyard Grapes which you can order from the > Cooperative Extension service. The publication is number MC 59 and you can > view information on ordering it at: > http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm > Some branches of the library have a binder containing our publications. If > you choose to check there, ask the librarian for binder 635 General > Reference. The title is Horticulture Publications. > > Maricopa County Cooperative Extension > 4341 E. Broadway Road > Phoenix, AZ 85040 > (602) 470-8086 ext. 301 > 8:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. > Monday through Friday > > --------------- > > Some additional information I found in the book Desert Gardening, by George > Brookbank is that when you plant your grape, you should dig a big hole at > least 2 feet square x 2 feet deep. Get through any caliche. Then backfill > with soil mixed > with compost or steer manure, ammonium phosphate and sulphur. He says 1-1/2 > cubic feet of compost or steer manure, 2 lbs of sulphur and 1/2 lb of > ammonium phosphate. This book has quite a bit of information of growing > grapes. You might want > to take a look at a copy. > > Sue Bass > Master Gardener > ----------- > Grapes grow very well here in souther Arizona. They are easy to start > from cuttings in January. I'm layering them into 5 gallon pots now ~ > cuttings are difficult except in the winter. George Brookbanks "Desert > Gardening" lists varieties that do well in Tuscon. > My experience is only with Thompson, Flame and Ruby Seedless here > near Phoenix. You want to grow them enough away from any structure so > that you can walk around them without touching them. The grape leaf > skeletonizer can be a big problem; it's fuzz is very irritating to my > skin; however, the birds have cleaned them up without my having to do a > thing to control them at all. My plants are inside a cage which can be > bird proof during grape production. > Grapes provide wonderful shade and an evaporative cooler effect > for strawberries, however, grapes need to have water withheld in the fall > to help them become dormant just exactly when strawberries are making > runners and gathering strength for next spring's crop. A better > companion plant for grapes is asparagus. Grapes make too much shade to > be anywhere except north or west of vegetables. Since they are fairly > permanent, you need to plan for future garden efforts before planting > them. > I prefer Flame and Ruby because Thompson needs to have 10 buds > left after pruning in order to make grapes.....this is called "cane > pruning" rather than spur pruning which can be done with Flame and Ruby. > The spur pruning is easier for me. Good luck. > > Dawn Kazmer > ------------ > > > Linda Drew > Master Gardener > > > > > > > > >From: meljoyceevans@aol.com > >To: > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 15:22:04 -0700 (MST) > > > >I am considering planting a grape vine and would appreciate guidance on the > >best for eating, when and where to plant and plant care. I live in the > >Chandler area. Thank you very much. From copper@bargainsail.com Thu Nov 14 17:02:53 2002 From: copper@bargainsail.com (Copper Bittner) Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 10:02:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cabin available on the January adventure cruise for gardeners Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0102_01C28BC4.FF5C5FD0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit This price goes up after this cabin is filled. A gentleman called to tell me he wasn't going to be able to go and I need to fill his cabin. Are you single? Cruise West has a Single Share Program that allows you to book your cabin and wait for another single partner to share. If no one comes along, you get to sail in your own cabin! It's a great deal! Don't let being alone stop you from this extraordinaire adventure. Giant Cardon Cactus Whale moms and calves Swim with Sea Lions Soak up those rays A photographer's paradise Casual atmosphere...no tuxedos! Naturalist interpretation of the land- and sea- scapes Explore the fauna on deserted desert islands Enjoy a special Mexican Fiesta for our ship only! Call Copper Today at 480-219-4966 office or 480-802-9709 home. Hurry...the price goes way up after this cabin goes! ------=_NextPart_000_0102_01C28BC4.FF5C5FD0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

This = price goes up=20 after this cabin is filled. A gentleman called to tell me he = wasn't going=20 to be able to go and I need to fill his cabin.

Are = you=20 single? Cruise West has a Single Share Program that allows you to = book=20 your cabin and wait for another single partner to share. If no one = comes=20 along, you get to sail in your own cabin! It's a great deal! = Don't=20 let being alone stop you from this extraordinaire = adventure.

Giant = Cardon=20 Cactus

Whale = moms and=20 calves

Swim = with Sea=20 Lions

Soak = up those=20 rays

A = photographer's=20 paradise

Casual = atmosphere...no tuxedos!

Naturalist=20 interpretation of the land- and = sea- scapes

Explore the fauna on=20 deserted desert islands

Enjoy = a special=20 Mexican Fiesta for our ship only!

Call Copper=20 Today at 480-219-4966 office or 480-802-9709 = home.

Hurry...the price goes way up after this cabin=20 goes!
------=_NextPart_000_0102_01C28BC4.FF5C5FD0-- From bmarcus2@cox.net Fri Nov 15 04:55:23 2002 From: bmarcus2@cox.net (Barbara Marcus) Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 21:55:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roses and annuals Message-ID: <009c01c28c63$34adc6d0$1d233818@Home> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0099_01C28C28.88306A50 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I planted a climbing rose last spring. It is growing nicely however we = have seen only 1 bloom. Is this normal? Should I prune it in January = and how much? I've planted annuals underneath it. I know the watewr = requirements are different for roses and annuals. Should I still deep = water the rose. And how much water do annuals (snaps, stock and = petunias) need now? Thank you, Barbara ------=_NextPart_000_0099_01C28C28.88306A50 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I planted a climbing rose last = spring. It is=20 growing nicely however we have seen only 1 bloom. Is this = normal? =20 Should I prune it in January and how much? I've planted annuals = underneath=20 it. I know the watewr requirements are different for roses and=20 annuals. Should I still deep water the rose. And how much = water do=20 annuals (snaps, stock and petunias) need now?

Thank you,=20 Barbara
------=_NextPart_000_0099_01C28C28.88306A50-- From bennettswfskb@cs.com Fri Nov 15 05:24:03 2002 From: bennettswfskb@cs.com (bennettswfskb@cs.com) Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 22:24:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211150524.gAF5O3N18030@Ag.arizona.edu> There is a (probably) blue palo verde about a foot outide our front fence toward the road that is also under the power lines. Sooner or later it will get either cut down or butchered probably by the power company. What is the best way to save the tree without spending a fortune? I would love to have the tree to the west of our house. It is our tree, just in a bad place. How can I dig it up and transplant it successfully? Thank you for any help you can give. Sherry From copper@bargainsail.com Fri Nov 15 13:42:22 2002 From: copper@bargainsail.com (Copper Bittner) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 06:42:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] One AA Cabin left addendum Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_003C_01C28C72.2688DFE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit My apologies to the list. I wasn't complete yesterday. The cruise departs La Paz Mexico on January 18, 2002. This is an 8 day cruise with the only port being Loreto. The rest of the nights will be spent aboard anchored in coves of deserted islands, the ones we explore during the day as we journey along the western coast of the Sea of Cortes. You can view an itinerary at my website www.bargainsail.com/mgtour.asp and see the ship and cruise company at www.cruisewest.com. We have a single female MG already signed up and awaiting a companion in the AA category. Come join the fun of exploring the local flora and fauna of this rugged territory. There are other cabins still available, but they are approximately $400.00 more per person, depending on availability. For more details and to make a reservation, call Copper Bittner/Master Gardener/Accredited Cruise Counselor SailAway Vacations 480-219-4966 office 480-802-9709 home between 6:30-9 AM and 5-8 PM and weekends ------=_NextPart_000_003C_01C28C72.2688DFE0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

My = apologies to the=20 list. I wasn't complete yesterday.

The = cruise departs=20 La Paz Mexico on January 18, 2002. This is an 8 day cruise with = the only=20 port being Loreto. The rest of the nights will be spent aboard = anchored in=20 coves of deserted islands, the ones we explore during the day as we = journey=20 along the western coast of the Sea of Cortes.

You = can view an=20 itinerary at my website www.bargainsail.com/mgtour.asp and see=20 the ship and cruise company at www.cruisewest.com.

We = have a single=20 female MG already signed up and awaiting a companion in the AA=20 category.

Come = join the fun of=20 exploring the local flora and fauna of this rugged=20 territory.

There are other cabins still available, but they = are=20 approximately $400.00 more per person, depending on=20 availability.

For = more details and=20 to make a reservation, call

Copper = Bittner/Master Gardener/Accredited Cruise Counselor

SailAway=20 Vacations

480-219-4966=20 office

480-802-9709 home=20 between 6:30-9 AM and 5-8 PM and=20 weekends
------=_NextPart_000_003C_01C28C72.2688DFE0-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Nov 15 16:08:20 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 16:08:20 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] cypress/juniper turning brown Message-ID: First, use a probe to make sure that each time you water, you water down to about three feet and out to the dripline of the tree or beyond. You will probably have to experiment with your drip system to see how much time it takes to achieve that depth and breadth of watering. One you have figured out the length of time you must water each time, you can determine the frequency of watering. In general, trees are watered about once a week in the summer, once every two weeks in the spring and fall, and once a month in the winter. If you've been watering much differently than this, you may need to switch more gradually to the new system. Linda >From: Alvin Hong >To: Linda Drew >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] cypress/juniper turning brown >Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 12:25:21 -0800 (PST) > > >can you recommend how much water they need (winter and summers are >different?). i have them on a drip system that can water up to 99 min. >each day. thanks for all the help! >alvin > Linda Drew wrote:Cypress should be allowed to >dry out ( the soil ) between waterings; >watering could be the problem with the cypress. > >Spider mites and or twig borers could also cause browning of the foliage. >The mites can be controlled by a strong spray of water >daily; in severe cases, spray with an insecticidal soap solution >and repeat in 7-10 days. Check small branches for holes to determine >if it might be a twig borer. > >If you fertilize, be sure to fertilize lightly in the spring. > >Master Gardener Manual website on irrigation: >http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html > > >Linda Drew >Master Gardener > > > >From: adhong@yahoo.com > >To: > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 21:19:17 -0700 (MST) > > > >I have cypress trees which are turning brown and droopy from the bottom >up. > >The are not standing straight up anymore and are slouching. What is wrong > >and what can I do about it? > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Arid_gardener mailing list > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > >_________________________________________________________________ >MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* >http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus > > > >--------------------------------- >Do you Yahoo!? >Yahoo! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your site _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Nov 15 16:36:35 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 16:36:35 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit tree, yellow leaves Message-ID: Your citrus trees should be watered to a depth of 2 to 3 feet and to the dripline and beyond. You will have to experiment with your drip system to see how long you must water to reach that depth and breadth. Once you know the length of time to water, you will want to figure out the frequency. In summer this may be as much as 1 to 3 times a week, once every 1 to 2 weeks in the spring and fall, and once every 3 to 4 weeks in the winter. Print out the citrus irrigation guide for more info: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf You will usually fertilize 2 to 3 times a year --- Valentine's DAy, Memorial Day and Labor Day. Just follow the label directions on the fertilizer. Linda >From: "Paige Lycett" >To: "Linda Drew" >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit tree, yellow leaves >Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 07:28:51 -0800 > >Thanks for the reply Linda. The lemon tree is pretty big (don't know the >age) and gets flooded every day via timed watering device (probably 15 >minutes) and the soil is always damp. We've since found out that we should >water it every month (except June, July, Aug.) and we only fertilized it >once a year! > >The grapefruit got the same treatment and is just a baby, probably only one >to two years. It had four grapefruit on it when we got here and we took >them off before maturity to help the poor little thing. > >So I bought citrus fertilizer with iron yesterday and gave the big one 2 >cups and the little one 1/2 cup. Do you think that was ok? > > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Linda Drew" >To: ; >Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2002 5:12 AM >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit tree, yellow leaves > > > > Yellow leaves could be caused from over or under watering plus other >things. > > Some yellowing and leaf drop is normal this time of year. > > If you will advise the age of the tree, how much water and how often, > > thay will give us a clue as to the cause. > > > > Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on citrus irrigation at the > > following website: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf > > > > Linda Drew > > Master Gardener > > > > >From: "Paige Lycett" > > >To: > > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit tree > > >Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 20:42:13 -0800 > > > > > >Dear Arid Gardener, > > > We just arrived at our new digs in Palm Springs to find the >grapefruit > > >and lemon tree looking a little 'off color'. Seems some of the leaves >are > > >turning yellow and dropping. Is this normal for this time of year or >do > > >you think we might have a problem? We know nothing about citrus so >started > > >with the internet. > > > If you have time could you possibly give us some suggestions. > > >Thanks, > > >Janet > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. > > http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail > > > > _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Nov 15 16:49:37 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 16:49:37 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] bottlebrush dying Message-ID: It is possible this is a disease condition such as phtophthora (crown, foot rot) or some other disease such as fusarium or verticillium. Usually, there is not much you can do for these diseases other than good cultural practices to keep the plants healthy and vigorous, and preventing injuries. Is it possible to dig out some soil and finger-sized roots from one in decline and bring that plus some branches to your local Cooperative Extension Office? Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: merisea@earthlink.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 20:12:03 -0700 (MST) > >My 15yr old lemon bottlebrush plantings used as screening on southeast and >southwest corners of property are showing die out and it appears that this >is very serious threatening loss of these valued shrubs. Leaves and limbs >totally dry out. any idea why this is happening? Can it be the increase in >our temperatures or is their a disease problem below soil, no visible other >signs on leaves. HELP. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Nov 15 16:55:10 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 16:55:10 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] grapes Message-ID: It does seem a bit early for the grapes to go dormant. How are you watering them now? If the soil seems very dry, I would suggest giving them a good watering now and then let them go dormant. Water once a month or so during the winter, especially if we don't get good winter rains. (I am not an expert, so I hope others will have some ideas from their experience). Linda >From: "White O' Mornin'" >To: "Linda Drew" , >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] grapes >Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 00:11:59 -0700 > >Speaking of grapes; Mine are just under one year in >the ground. I bought them bare rooted, recently built >them a large arbor and they are only about two x two >feet, at present. > >However, they are loosing their leaves already. I realize >that they are deciduous but isn't it a bit early, and warm, >for them to do that in Arizona? Or are mine ill? I haven't >noticed any unusual pests or fungus' about them. Just >dropping their leaves and looking bad. Maybe they need >more watering? Please, help and advise? > > ~Rachel~ > Better Dogs, Goats 'n Gardens > (of White O'Mornin' Farm) > Arizona Zone - 13 > We may not know what the future > holds but, we can trust the one who > holds the future! >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Linda Drew" >To: ; >Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2002 4:25 PM >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] grapes > > > > Here in Tucson we grow black beauty, flame and Thompson's seedless > > very successfully. > > > > Thompson, Flame, BlackMonukka and Perlette were listed as good for table > > grapes and raisin-making. Cardinal and Exotic were suggested > > for table or jelly. Concord can do well. > > > > > > Here is aresponse to an earlier question: > > > > We have a publication called Backyard Grapes which you can order from >the > > Cooperative Extension service. The publication is number MC 59 and you >can > > view information on ordering it at: > > http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm > > Some branches of the library have a binder containing our publications. >If > > you choose to check there, ask the librarian for binder 635 General > > Reference. The title is Horticulture Publications. > > > > Maricopa County Cooperative Extension > > 4341 E. Broadway Road > > Phoenix, AZ 85040 > > (602) 470-8086 ext. 301 > > 8:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. > > Monday through Friday > > > > --------------- > > > > Some additional information I found in the book Desert Gardening, by >George > > Brookbank is that when you plant your grape, you should dig a big hole >at > > least 2 feet square x 2 feet deep. Get through any caliche. Then >backfill > > with soil mixed > > with compost or steer manure, ammonium phosphate and sulphur. He says >1-1/2 > > cubic feet of compost or steer manure, 2 lbs of sulphur and 1/2 lb of > > ammonium phosphate. This book has quite a bit of information of >growing > > grapes. You might want > > to take a look at a copy. > > > > Sue Bass > > Master Gardener > > ----------- > > Grapes grow very well here in souther Arizona. They are easy to start > > from cuttings in January. I'm layering them into 5 gallon pots now ~ > > cuttings are difficult except in the winter. George Brookbanks "Desert > > Gardening" lists varieties that do well in Tuscon. > > My experience is only with Thompson, Flame and Ruby Seedless here > > near Phoenix. You want to grow them enough away from any structure so > > that you can walk around them without touching them. The grape leaf > > skeletonizer can be a big problem; it's fuzz is very irritating to my > > skin; however, the birds have cleaned them up without my having to do a > > thing to control them at all. My plants are inside a cage which can be > > bird proof during grape production. > > Grapes provide wonderful shade and an evaporative cooler effect > > for strawberries, however, grapes need to have water withheld in the >fall > > to help them become dormant just exactly when strawberries are making > > runners and gathering strength for next spring's crop. A better > > companion plant for grapes is asparagus. Grapes make too much shade to > > be anywhere except north or west of vegetables. Since they are fairly > > permanent, you need to plan for future garden efforts before planting > > them. > > I prefer Flame and Ruby because Thompson needs to have 10 buds > > left after pruning in order to make grapes.....this is called "cane > > pruning" rather than spur pruning which can be done with Flame and Ruby. > > The spur pruning is easier for me. Good luck. > > > > Dawn Kazmer > > ------------ > > > > > > Linda Drew > > Master Gardener > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >From: meljoyceevans@aol.com > > >To: > > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > >Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2002 15:22:04 -0700 (MST) > > > > > >I am considering planting a grape vine and would appreciate guidance on >the > > >best for eating, when and where to plant and plant care. I live in the > > >Chandler area. Thank you very much. > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus From gizmoaz@cox.net Fri Nov 15 17:08:42 2002 From: gizmoaz@cox.net (gizmoaz@cox.net) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 12:08:42 -0500 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roses and annuals Message-ID: <20021115170844.ZSVK2201.fed1mtao03.cox.net@smtp.west.cox.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=____1037380122433_PH2X4H2JUP Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Barbara, It could be unusual. Depends on the rose. If it is a once a year bloomer, I would not be surprised, but if a repeat bloomer I would be surprised. Do you remember the name of the rose? - Chat with you later... ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 *** Check out all the new Garden Pics from around the world - "My Friends Gardens" *** http://www.GardenersCorner.com Whatever you delete today, you desperately need tomorrow > > From: "Barbara Marcus" > Date: 2002/11/14 Thu PM 11:55:23 EST > To: "Arid Gardener" > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roses and annuals > > I planted a climbing rose last spring. It is growing nicely however we have seen only 1 bloom. Is this normal? Should I prune it in January and how much? I've planted annuals underneath it. I know the watewr requirements are different for roses and annuals. Should I still deep water the rose. And how much water do annuals (snaps, stock and petunias) need now? > Thank you, Barbara > > ------=____1037380122433_PH2X4H2JUP Content-Type: text/html; name="replyAll" Content-Disposition: inline; filename="replyAll"

I planted a climbing rose last spring. It is growing nicely however we have seen only 1 bloom. Is this normal? Should I prune it in January and how much? I've planted annuals underneath it. I know the watewr requirements are different for roses and annuals. Should I still deep water the rose. And how much water do annuals (snaps, stock and petunias) need now?

Thank you, Barbara
------=____1037380122433_PH2X4H2JUP-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Nov 15 20:55:18 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 20:55:18 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] transplanting Palo Verde tree Message-ID: Sherry, I have not transplanted larger trees. The age and size will certainly be a factor (small, young trees stand a better chance of surviving the shock of transplanting). You will want to move as much of the soil and rootball as you can, but even a small rootball will be very heavy. One publication said larger tree spades are probably the only satisfactory moving device currently available for moving large established trees. Stress is reduced if this transplanting is done during the cooler period of October - February. Before moving, prune back a portion (20% max) of the top branch and leaf area to maintain a better balance between the roots and top. Full recovery and regrowth will generally require from several months to a year. Water applied in a basin as large as the canopy's drip line will be helpful in reducing the transplant shock. If your interested in the advice of specialists, consult an arborist for advice (certified arborist, in "trees" section of yellow pages). Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: bennettswfskb@cs.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 22:24:03 -0700 (MST) > >There is a (probably) blue palo verde about a foot outide our front ence >toward the road that is also under the power lines. Sooner or later it >will get either cut down or butchered probably by the power company. > >What is the best way to save the tree without spending a fortune? I would >love to have the tree to the west of our house. It is our tree, just in a >bad place. How can I dig it up and transplant it successfully? > >Thank you for any help you can give. >Sherry > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail From ejph104623@aol.com Fri Nov 15 23:48:50 2002 From: ejph104623@aol.com (ejph104623@aol.com) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 16:48:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211152348.gAFNmoN09375@Ag.arizona.edu> I am new in the area and would appreciate knowing if Azalea, Hibiscus and hydranges plants(shrubs) will survive in this climate and soil. If so, should they be planted in shade, sun or partial shade. Types of fertilizer to use and how frequently. Thank you !! From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Nov 16 00:59:07 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 00:59:07 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Woodpeckers and oranges Message-ID: Two articles that may help you deal with woodpeckers: http://www.suite101.com/article.cfm/living_wildlife/29200 http://www.suite101.com/article.cfm/living_wildlife/30082 Check out our website on woodpecker management: MANAGEMENT: The most effective control measures for woodpeckers include exclusion and frightening. Exclusion. Netting and metal sheeting or hardware cloth are used for exclusion. Plastic bird netting with a 3/4-inch mesh can be placed completely over small trees or used to exclude birds from surfaces. To protect a surface, netting should be raised at least 3 inches from the surface to prevent damage through the mesh. Woodpeckers often peck at the top of walls near the roof eaves. Protect these areas by attaching the netting to the edge of the eave, angling it back, and attaching it to the wall below the damaged area. Metal sheeting or 1/4-inch hardware cloth can be secured over pecked areas to prevent further damage. The metal barrier should be painted to resemble the existing surface. Once the offending birds are gone, the holes should be permanently filled and finished so as not to attract woodpeckers in the future. Frightening Visual frightening devices, such as brightly colored plastic or Mylar strips or aluminum foil, have been effective at repelling woodpeckers. Use strips about 2-3 inches wide and 3 feet long. Tie a 6-inch string to one end of a strip. Tie the other string end 2-3 feet above the damaged area so the strips hang freely. The movement of these bright, reflective strips often frightens the birds away. Brightly colored, reflective toy windmills can also be used. Secure the windmills at the pecking site so that the vanes will move freely with any breeze. Some success at repelling woodpeckers has been achieved with life-sized, freely moving hawk silhouettes or the "Scary-Eye" balloons (balloons painted with large raptor-like eyes), especially if their positions are moved frequently. Commercial sound repellents, such as propane cannons, can be effective, at least for short periods, in agricultural crops, but are not generally acceptable in residential areas. Repeated loud noises, such as cap pistols or banging garbage can lids, may cause the woodpecker(s) to leave for good. Regardless of the control methods used, it is very important to implement controls as soon as possible. The longer the pecking or drumming continues at a particular site, the harder it will be to dissuade that behavior. WHAT DOESN'T WORK Commercial frightening devices such as plastic snakes and owls are generally considered ineffective. Taste, odor and tactile repellents have proven to be relatively ineffective. No toxicants are registered for woodpeckers, as they are protected by federal and state laws. They can be legally killed only under permits issued by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service and the appropriate state agency (in Arizona, the Arizona Game and Fish Department). However, lethal control of woodpeckers is rarely warranted. Locating a clean water source for woodpeckers in your yard may prevent damage. Woodpeckers will also choose to feed from hummingbird feeders if they are available. They may then leave your citrus alone, but no guarantees! Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Mark Mittelstaedt" >To: >Subject: Woodpeckers and oranges >Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 17:31:48 -0700 > >For some reason, this year I have a veritable plague of flickers ( pileated >woodpeckers ) pecking holes in my nascent navel oranges, and they are >getting a lot of them. Has anyone out there had any luck with anything that >keeps them away. If not, I'll have to start terminating them, and I'm >reluctant to do so, but I'm not going to cede my crop to the little >*&^%^$%%#^s. Thanks ! _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus From kieferguthrie@compuserve.com Sat Nov 16 01:33:26 2002 From: kieferguthrie@compuserve.com (kieferguthrie@compuserve.com) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 18:33:26 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211160133.gAG1XQN20545@Ag.arizona.edu> Like many here in Cave Creek, our bursage is looking pretty sad right now. After last summer's drought and wildfire scare, I want to remove dead brush near the house -- but hesitate to take out what might still be viable. Even after the recent rain, most of our bursage plants have just a few leaves, if any, with mostly dry branches. What's your advice on how severely to prune them back? Will they regenerate if the roots are OK? They aren't on our drip system but in the past have never looked quite so dry and dead... From jake-enterprises@att.net Sat Nov 16 03:04:26 2002 From: jake-enterprises@att.net (jake-enterprises@att.net) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 20:04:26 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211160304.gAG34QN00386@Ag.arizona.edu> I have been having trouble with my fruit trees. Have talked with several nurseries who told me they thought that it was my watering method. I have since change my cycle to their recommendations but the trees still seem to be struggling. I have lost one tree completely, one tree lost 90% of its leaves in about a week. Some leaves have come back approx. 50%. I now have one other tree starting to lose its leaves. They simply dry up and fall off. About 25% of the tree is effect now but seem to be looking worse each day. I have been fertilizing on the recommended schedule. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. I fear that I will lose all six of the trees. They are approx.10 to 15 years old. Thanks, From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Nov 16 12:31:42 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 12:31:42 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] bougainvillea care Message-ID: Hi, Terri Here are some guidelines for growing bougainvillea indoors: at least four hours of direct sunlight every day normal room temperature is fine winter is the normal rest period; keep cooler but not below 50F water moderately -- moisten the soil thoroughly and then allow the top two-thirds to dry out between waterings; drastically reduce watering during rest period (winter), just kept from drying out during the winter rest apply light (1/2-strength) fertilizer in the spring Linda (p.s. -- the heat lamp is not needed) >From: Terri Smith >To: Linda Drew >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] bouganvillea care >Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 21:59:32 -0800 (PST) > > >Thank you for your response. There is not much I can do about the light it >gets inside, unfortunately. However, I do have a heat lamp that we used >when my son had an Iguana. Would it help to put the plant under this light >for a few hours a day? And how dry should I let it get? Is there any time >I should fertilize? >The advice I received from your web site and one other seems to be working >ok, it is still sending out shoots, but the leaves have all fallen off! My >poor bald plant! >Your advice will be appreciated and followed. >Thanks again for your help. > Linda Drew wrote: >Bougainvillea likes full sun, and it does not require a lot of >water and practically no fertilizer. If the roots are disturbed >when it is planted it may never recover and grow. > >Since you are growing yours indoors, be sure it has ample >bright light. Cut back on the watering and stop fertilizing. >It will freeze back in cold weather but usually regrows >as soon as warm weather returns. > >Linda Drew >Master Gardener > > > > >From: Terri Smith > >To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] bouganvilla care > >Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 16:29:55 -0800 (PST) > > > > > >I just purchased a potted plant from the local hardware store, and it >isn't > >doing very well. I have been watering it regularly, and have been giving > >it food, and there is new growth on the ends of the branches. I live in > >Palmdale, CA, which is in the desert. I understand that they like dry > >climates, but winter is coming on, and it is getting very cold overnight. > >Because of this, I keep it inside, but the leaves have paled, and they >are > >falling off like hair! Help! Soon, or we might be discussing a dead > >plant! > > > >Thanks > > > > > > > > > >Terri > > > > > >--------------------------------- > >Do you Yahoo!? > >U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive medley & videos from Greatest Hits CD > > >_________________________________________________________________ >The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE* >http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail > > >Terri > > >--------------------------------- >Do you Yahoo!? >Yahoo! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your site _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From stevenj_edwards@hotmail.com Sat Nov 16 16:28:21 2002 From: stevenj_edwards@hotmail.com (Steven Edwards) Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 09:28:21 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Science Fair on Photosynthesis Message-ID: Hello, my name is Steven Edwards, in 7th grade, and I�m doing a Science Fair Project for school. It�s on the subject of photosynthesis. I�m seeing if grass can grow when their light source is restricted and cut off. I will give them a pre-measured amount of a dissolved sugar solution (table sugar?) from a watering can. I�m hoping that the grass can use active transport to take in the sugar-water, and use the sugar for food. I�m comparing the square of grass that I�m experimenting on with another square that is also covered. This other square gets the same amount of water as the other one, but doesn�t receive the sugar. I�m also using 4 other squares of grass. 2 of them are covered with a mesh, which blocks about half of the sunlight. One on these gets the sugar and the other doesn�t. The final 2 aren�t covered up at all, and like the others, only one gets the sugar solution. All of the squares get the same amount of water; and for the 3, the same amount of sugar. All of the grass squares are the same size and are all a deep green color. These are a few of my questions, if you could e-mail me back, with your answer to my questions, I would be very appreciative: 1. I was wondering what you thought of this project and if it might work. If not, why. 2. What kind of sugar do you suggest that I use? 3. How much sugar should I use for every square of grass, each square of grass is 1ft x 1ft. If it matters, the grass is called Bermuda grass. _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From whickert@mindspring.com Sat Nov 16 19:21:55 2002 From: whickert@mindspring.com (Joyce Wickert) Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 11:21:55 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] picking grapefruit - process Message-ID: Do you pull grapefruit off the tree once it is solid yellow and large? Or do you clip the stem? Joyce A.L. Wickert From mary.c.steele@stanfordalumni.org Sat Nov 16 23:43:16 2002 From: mary.c.steele@stanfordalumni.org (Mary Steele) Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 15:43:16 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ornamental grasses for Mesa, AZ Message-ID: <200211162343.gAGNhkN25845@Ag.arizona.edu> Hi My mother lives in Mesa, AZ and would like some landscape plants in her garden which is 99% crushed rock at present. She has dismissed most of my suggestions as "too messy"," "too much work," etc. (She is over 80). My most recent suggestion was some type(s) of native grasses, preferably of different heights, different hues, and not too terribly invasive. Can you suggest a possible plant palette for her?? Thank you in advance. Mary Steele (Master Gardener in Orange County, CA) ____________________________________________________________________ From grogers@farnsworthhomes.com Sun Nov 17 03:06:52 2002 From: grogers@farnsworthhomes.com (grogers@farnsworthhomes.com) Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 20:06:52 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211170306.gAH36qN13104@Ag.arizona.edu> In pinal county near casa grande I would like to plant a few pecan trees. I wish to plant 30 or more trees, with the intention of selling the pecans to people wanting organically produced food. Some of the questions I have are: 1. What is a good variety to plant 2. What are sources and prices of nursery stock 3. How much water is required per year per tree 4. How long does it take for trees to start production 5. What should the spacing between trees be 6. What is a good book or publication that would help with this project thanks for your help Glen From dshelton@vei.net Sun Nov 17 15:59:56 2002 From: dshelton@vei.net (dshelton@vei.net) Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 08:59:56 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211171559.gAHFxqN15311@Ag.arizona.edu> my catus has bloomed,counted 133 blooms, there are more. but the buds are starting to fall off.. What can I do????????? Thanks From hokon1@cox.net Sun Nov 17 17:44:59 2002 From: hokon1@cox.net (hokon1@cox.net) Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 10:44:59 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211171744.gAHHixN19708@Ag.arizona.edu> what is causing my orange tree leaves on some branchs to curl in the tree is growing great an is 3 years old i water this time of the year every 2 weeks i use a 2f rod to check water depth From lindasacredheart57santoro@att.net Sun Nov 17 21:04:02 2002 From: lindasacredheart57santoro@att.net (Linda Santoro) Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 14:04:02 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Zinnia's and dry powdery something Message-ID: <3DD80442.67161161@att.net> Good afternoon, I planted some zinnia's from seed in our planters the second week in August. They are gorgeous but have a white powdery substance on the leaves, etc. It washes off but... Can you tell me what this might be and how to treat it? The flowers are in a planter around the verandah. Linda Santoro 480-998-5241 From vmuller361@netscape.net Mon Nov 18 01:08:59 2002 From: vmuller361@netscape.net (vmuller361@netscape.net) Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2002 18:08:59 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211180108.gAI18xN25990@Ag.arizona.edu> When is the best time to plant a jacarunda tree? Is this a good time or should we wait until spring? From carol.flores@asu.edu Sat Nov 16 04:46:02 2002 From: carol.flores@asu.edu (carol.flores@asu.edu) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 21:46:02 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211160446.gAG4k2N08243@Ag.arizona.edu> My husband and I created a very large raised area in our back yard. It is walled in (low wall, 1.5 ft high) and filled with dirt. We have stairs leading up, grass and planters on top. Recently, our neighbor informed us of water leakage thru our shared masonry wall. We want to seal the wall. What can we use that won't be extraordinarily toxic to our plants and to the environment in general? Should we use tar, build a 2nd reinforcing wall, etc? Thank you! From umiller@azdps.com Mon Nov 18 16:15:14 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 09:15:14 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] picking grapefruit - process In-Reply-To: Message-ID: You can pull it off the tree. Most of the time they come off easily without much tugging. If the fruit just doesn't want to budge, you can twist it while holding the stem and it will come off. No need to clip. You can start picking grapefruit anytime between now and next summer. The longer on the tree, the sweeter. One of my fruits fell off last week and I ate it, but it was VERY tart. I normally start picking in December and keep doing that until they're all gone - usually sometime in April. Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Joyce Wickert Sent: Saturday, November 16, 2002 12:22 PM To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] picking grapefruit - process Do you pull grapefruit off the tree once it is solid yellow and large? Or do you clip the stem? Joyce A.L. Wickert _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From umiller@azdps.com Mon Nov 18 16:18:46 2002 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 09:18:46 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200211171744.gAHHixN19708@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Probably thrips - small and difficult to see insects. Give the leaves a strong shot of water and try to hose them off. They're not dangerous but it's still good to get rid of them. Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of hokon1@cox.net Sent: Sunday, November 17, 2002 10:45 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page what is causing my orange tree leaves on some branchs to curl in the tree is growing great an is 3 years old i water this time of the year every 2 weeks i use a 2f rod to check water depth _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From clewis26@cox.net Mon Nov 18 20:17:04 2002 From: clewis26@cox.net (clewis26@cox.net) Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 13:17:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211182017.gAIKH4N10168@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like to know where I can get a LeConte, Floridahome, and/or Hood pear tree. These are low chill variety according to my search. Other varieties for Maricopa County?? From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Mon Nov 18 22:03:49 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 15:03:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Jacaranda, planting time Message-ID: <002c01c28f4e$61279400$8d04e043@ibmbna6040> It is best to wait until the danger of frost is past to plant a Jacaranda tree. Should we get a heavy frost it could damage or kill a young tree. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: vmuller361@netscape.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, November 18, 2002 9:23 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >When is the best time to plant a jacarunda tree? Is this a good time or should we wait until spring? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Mon Nov 18 22:17:51 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 15:17:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fruit tree leaves falling off. Message-ID: <003701c28f50$56ee2b00$8d04e043@ibmbna6040> The problem could be caused by disease or insects but I suspect that your fruit trees have not been watered adequately. If you live in the low desert most fruit trees ( you didn't say what they are ) should be deep watered to a depth of three feet at about every 7 days during the summer. Check out these sites for info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://www.amwua.org/xscp-wateringschedules.htm http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From: jake-enterprises@att.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, November 18, 2002 9:22 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I have been having trouble with my fruit trees. Have talked with several nurseries who told me they thought that it was my watering method. I have since change my cycle to their recommendations but the trees still seem to be struggling. I have lost one tree completely, one tree lost 90% of its leaves in about a week. Some leaves have come back approx. 50%. I now have one other tree starting to lose its leaves. They simply dry up and fall off. About 25% of the tree is effect now but seem to be looking worse each day. I have been fertilizing on the recommended schedule. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. I fear that I will lose all six of the trees. They are approx.10 to 15 years old. > >Thanks, > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Mon Nov 18 22:53:24 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 15:53:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Science Fair on Photosynthesis Message-ID: <003c01c28f55$4dfccb00$8d04e043@ibmbna6040> Hi Steven Bermuda grass is a warm season grass which only grows and stays green approximately April through October, the remainder of the season the bermuda grass becomes dormant. The principle ingredient that causes bermuda to grow and to florish is nitrogen. I don't think that sugar would be of any benefit except to attract the insects. Further bermuda will not grow in deep shade and will languish in partial shade. If you do the project during the winter I would suggest using rye grass which will grow well during cold weather and will handle partial shade. Should you use the rye the best source of nitrogen to use during cold weather is amonium nitrate. During the warm season amonium sulfate or urea are good sources of nitrogen. Perhaps easier to use on a small project would be a water soluble fertilizer such as Miracle Grow if you can find one with a 20/20/20 analysis which means 20% each of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Mix according to package directions and apply one to two quarts every two weeks. Good luck with your project. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: Steven Edwards Date: Monday, November 18, 2002 9:23 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Science Fair on Photosynthesis > Hello, my name is Steven Edwards, in 7th grade, and I�m doing a Science >Fair Project for school. It�s on the subject of photosynthesis. I�m seeing >if grass can grow when their light source is restricted and cut off. I will >give them a pre-measured amount of a dissolved sugar solution (table sugar?) >from a watering can. I�m hoping that the grass can use active transport to >take in the sugar-water, and use the sugar for food. I�m comparing the >square of grass that I�m experimenting on with another square that is also >covered. This other square gets the same amount of water as the other one, >but doesn�t receive the sugar. I�m also using 4 other squares of grass. 2 of >them are covered with a mesh, which blocks about half of the sunlight. One >on these gets the sugar and the other doesn�t. The final 2 aren�t covered up >at all, and like the others, only one gets the sugar solution. All of the >squares get the same amount of water; and for the 3, the same amount of >sugar. All of the grass squares are the same size and are all a deep green >color. > > These are a few of my questions, if you could e-mail me back, with your >answer to my questions, I would be very appreciative: > >1. I was wondering what you thought of this project and if it might >work. If not, why. > >2. What kind of sugar do you suggest that I use? > >3. How much sugar should I use for every square of grass, each square of >grass is 1ft x 1ft. If it matters, the grass is called Bermuda grass. > > > > > > >_________________________________________________________________ >The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE* >http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu Mon Nov 18 22:50:26 2002 From: cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu (Carol Noyes) Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 15:50:26 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Practical tree climbing techniques Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20021118151646.00ab6460@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_25825564==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Practical Tree Climbing Techniques and the Risk of Managing Trees Presented in English & Spanish December 13, 2002 7:30 AM - 5:00 PM Washington Adult Center & Park 2240 B. Citrus Avenue Phoenix, AZ 85015 INSTRUCTORS: Mark Chisolm: Mark is a third generation arbors who works for the family business, the Aspen Tree Expert Co., Inc. He has been climbing trees since the age of twelve. Mark speaks on such topics as advanced climbing an rigging techniques, crane removals, E.H.A.P. aerial rescue, cabling and bracing, competitive climbing, proper pruning and worker motivation. He is a repeat demonstrator at such tradeshows as TCI Expo and ISA Expo as well as lecturing at both Rutgers University and Hofstra University. One of his most satisfying duties is to perform on the job training for professionals around the globe. Mark is also a published author, with articles appearing in both "Tree Care Industry" and "Arbors News." Mark's credentials include: New Jersey Certified Tree Expert #348, ISA Certified Arbors, and Qualified Line Clearance Arbors. Robert Phillips: My Grandfather Roger F. Sohner began his arboricultural career over eighty years ago, so here I am. I have been working with trees for over thirty years, blending my knowledge of yesterday with todays technology. I have contributed ideas to both a column in Arbor Age Magazine and Tree Care Industry Magazine. The articles relate to non-injuries low impact tree climbing techniques, rigging for removal - and the equipment involved in performing such job tasks. I attended the aboriculture class at the University Cal Poly, San Luis Obispo, California. I have competed in the Tree Trimmers Jamborees for over four decades. I assisted in the production of seven videos with ISA, NAA and Arbor Master Training and provided information for two work books relating to basic and technical rigging for removal and tree climbing techniques. I am president-elect of the WCISA. SPANISH INSTRUCTORS: Margarito Garibo: Worked in Tree Care industry for 8 1/2 years. Certified Treeworker #WC 1092. Translations for National Arbors Association TCI Expo since 1998, working along side of Mark Chisolm and Robert Phillips. Assisted in written translation ISA Certified Treeworker manual, attended many ISA Chapter meetings & Jamborees for seminar translations. Educational presenter for Arizona Community Tree Council. Jeremy Spillsbury: Owner of Tree Doctors, Inc., Mesa, AZ. Working in Tree care business since 1993. Certified Arbors #WC4447, Treeworker #878. Educational presenter for Arizona Community Tree Council and Mesa Community College. Dan Condon: In 1980 Dan accepted the challenge as City Arbors for Santa Barbara, CA. He made a commitment to serve teh greater public good by caring for and maintaining the gorgeous and rare variety of trees which make Santa Barbara beautiful. Dan's personal mission was to uphold the high standards of the City Parks and Street Tree program. Dan fostered the evolution of the program for over 22 years. As a custodian of the urban forest, he and his forestry crew planted trees, nursed sick and dying trees, replaced trees that were inappropriate for their locations and defended and cared for older trees, which in many other cities would have been cut down. Much of Dan's work was done after hours and on weekends providing uncommon accessibility to the community. Dan's wisdom, understanding and appreciation for the species and age diversity of Santa Barbara's trees are unmatched. Registration: Professional Affiliations Membership $30 ACTC, ANA, ALCA, ISA, NAA, Master Gardeners Postmarked before December 9, 2002 Non-Members & at the door $35 CEU: Certified Tree Worker - 6 CEUs Certified Arbors - 6 CEUs Arizona Community Tree Council 2047 B. Elliot Road Chandler, AZ 85224 480-899-9831 or 602-909-9190 --=====================_25825564==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
Practical Tree Climbing Techniques and the Risk of Managing Trees
Presented in English & Spanish

December 13, 2002
7:30 AM - 5:00 PM
Washington Adult Center & Park
2240 B. Citrus Avenue
Phoenix, AZ 85015

INSTRUCTORS:

Mark Chisolm: Mark is a third generation arbors who works for the family business, the Aspen Tree Expert Co., Inc. He has been climbing trees since the age of twelve. Mark speaks on such topics as advanced climbing an rigging techniques, crane removals, E.H.A.P. aerial rescue, cabling and bracing, competitive climbing, proper pruning and worker motivation. He is a repeat demonstrator at such tradeshows as TCI Expo and ISA Expo as well as lecturing at both Rutgers University and Hofstra University. One of his most satisfying duties is to perform on the job training for professionals around the globe. Mark is also a published author, with articles appearing in both "Tree Care Industry" and "Arbors News." Mark's credentials include: New Jersey Certified Tree Expert #348, ISA Certified Arbors, and Qualified Line Clearance Arbors.

Robert Phillips: My Grandfather Roger F. Sohner began his arboricultural career over eighty years ago, so here I am. I have been working with trees for over thirty years, blending my knowledge of yesterday with todays technology. I have contributed ideas to both a column in Arbor Age Magazine and Tree Care Industry Magazine. The articles relate to non-injuries low impact tree climbing techniques, rigging for removal - and the equipment involved in performing such job tasks. I attended the aboriculture class at the University Cal Poly, San Luis Obispo, California. I have competed in the Tree Trimmers Jamborees for over four decades. I assisted in the production of seven videos with ISA, NAA and Arbor Master Training and provided information for two work books relating to basic and technical rigging for removal and tree climbing techniques. I am president-elect of the WCISA.

SPANISH INSTRUCTORS:

Margarito Garibo: Worked in Tree Care industry for 8 1/2 years. Certified Treeworker #WC 1092. Translations for National Arbors Association TCI Expo since 1998, working along side of Mark Chisolm and Robert Phillips. Assisted in written translation ISA Certified Treeworker manual, attended many ISA Chapter meetings & Jamborees for seminar translations. Educational presenter for Arizona Community Tree Council.

Jeremy Spillsbury: Owner of Tree Doctors, Inc., Mesa, AZ. Working in Tree care business since 1993. Certified Arbors #WC4447, Treeworker #878. Educational presenter for Arizona Community Tree Council and Mesa Community College.

Dan Condon: In 1980 Dan accepted the challenge as City Arbors for Santa Barbara, CA. He made a commitment to serve teh greater public good by caring for and maintaining the gorgeous and rare variety of trees which make Santa Barbara beautiful. Dan's personal mission was to uphold the high standards of the City Parks and Street Tree program. Dan fostered the evolution of the program for over 22 years. As a custodian of the urban forest, he and his forestry crew planted trees, nursed sick and dying trees, replaced trees that were inappropriate for their locations and defended and cared for older trees, which in many other cities would have been cut down. Much of Dan's work was done after hours and on weekends providing uncommon accessibility to the community. Dan's wisdom, understanding and appreciation for the species and age diversity of Santa Barbara's trees are unmatched.

Registration:
Professional Affiliations Membership                    $30
ACTC, ANA, ALCA, ISA, NAA, Master Gardeners
Postmarked before December 9, 2002

Non-Members & at the door                               $35

CEU:    Certified Tree Worker - 6 CEUs
        Certified Arbors - 6 CEUs

Arizona Community Tree Council
2047 B. Elliot Road
Chandler, AZ 85224
480-899-9831 or 602-909-9190 --=====================_25825564==_.ALT-- From patricea@att.net Mon Nov 18 23:44:04 2002 From: patricea@att.net (patricea@att.net) Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 16:44:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211182344.gAINi4N26289@Ag.arizona.edu> We are moving (10 minutes away) and I want to take cuttings of several of my roses and our lemon tree. My gardening books are packed away and I can't remember the procedures. Help please! From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Tue Nov 19 02:26:17 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 19:26:17 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cuttings Message-ID: <002501c28f73$0b57a720$d204e043@ibmbna6040> The Master Gardener Manual has a chapter on Plant Propagation describes in detail how to make cuttings and can be found on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: patricea@att.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, November 18, 2002 4:57 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >We are moving (10 minutes away) and I want to take cuttings of several of my roses and our lemon tree. My gardening books are packed away and I can't remember the procedures. Help please! > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From gypsy9@hotmail.com Tue Nov 19 03:07:34 2002 From: gypsy9@hotmail.com (Jessica Nelson) Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 19:07:34 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] help! Message-ID: Help! My Zebra plant (Aphelandra squarrosa) is dying! It is located indoors, near a window. It receives indirect sunlight for a few hours every morning. I have been keeping the soil moist (watering every other or every 2 days), but it dries out extremely quickly. The problem is that it drops its leaves with the slightest bump. The leaves are also completely drying out and crumbling from the tip inwards. Do you think that it is a problem with the soil? Should I place the whole pot in a dish of water to keep it moist? How much sunlight is necessary? I would appreciate any suggestions... thanks! jessica _________________________________________________________________ Tired of spam? Get advanced junk mail protection with MSN 8. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com Tue Nov 19 15:55:34 2002 From: Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com (Zelhart Alan-rpcs30) Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 08:55:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cuttings Message-ID: <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B993070405175A@az33exm25.corp.mot.com> Also, if you would like to see a photo illustrated way to start rose cuttings. Check out this link: http://www.rdrop.com/~paul/hulse.html I have used this method several times with great success. -- Chat with you later... ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 *** Check out all the new Garden Pics from around the world - "My Friends Gardens" *** http://www.GardenersCorner.com Incontinence Hotline, please hold. -----Original Message----- From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net [mailto:rodmmcq6@highstream.net] Sent: Monday, November 18, 2002 7:26 PM To: patricea@att.net Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cuttings The Master Gardener Manual has a chapter on Plant Propagation describes in detail how to make cuttings and can be found on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: patricea@att.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, November 18, 2002 4:57 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >We are moving (10 minutes away) and I want to take cuttings of several of my roses and our lemon tree. My gardening books are packed away and I can't remember the procedures. Help please! > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From kurt_pager@apsc.com Tue Nov 19 21:28:13 2002 From: kurt_pager@apsc.com (kurt_pager@apsc.com) Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 14:28:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211192128.gAJLSDN11256@Ag.arizona.edu> I live in the Groves area of East Mesa. I have 25 orange & grape fruit trees that are probably 30 years plus in age. They are flood irrigated. Old trees yes. The grape fruit have dead areas caused by sun burn. The trunks have large pieces of bark that is missing or coming off. I have painted the trunks over the rough areas. Also the grape fruits have areas were sap is comming out in large quantities. The orange trees are very dense in branches but not very leafy. Is this all normal for trees this old. We love these trees, how can we help them extend there lives? From ASUsped@aol.com Wed Nov 20 04:39:23 2002 From: ASUsped@aol.com (ASUsped@aol.com) Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 23:39:23 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] rose food for other plants Message-ID: <97.30fe4a10.2b0c6bfb@aol.com> Hello everyone, I just bought Arizona Best rose food (9 - 11 - 3 ), and has 9 . 00% Ammoniacal Nitrogen, 11.00% phosphoric acid, soluble potash 3.00%, sulfur 13.00%, iron 5.00%, zinc 1.00%, Magnesium 1.00%, calcium 1.5% and I also bought Alaska fish fertilizer (fish emulsion) 5 -1 -1. I bought these fertilizers for my roses and I was wondering if I could use them for my other plants: the Arabian Jasmine, Carolina Jasmine, lantanas and sage. I don't mind buying other kind of fertilizers but I would to know your opinion before I do that..........Mike From HRB85373@aol.com Wed Nov 20 20:44:26 2002 From: HRB85373@aol.com (HRB85373@aol.com) Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 13:44:26 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211202044.gAKKiQN18900@Ag.arizona.edu> I have some very nice pyracantha Santa Cruz shrubs. 3 & 4 years ago they were filled with nice red berries the birds loved. Last year they seemed to start the same, but then they all dried up before the birds got to them. This year they are doing the same. The berries seem to split, red on one side, the other side blackish & drying up. The plants themselves look good & healthy, no sign of insects or disease. Anyone know what the problem is and the cure? Many thanks! From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Wed Nov 20 21:36:51 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 14:36:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] rose food for other plants Message-ID: <000801c290dc$f12f29c0$cf31db43@ibmbna6040> Mike, The rose fertilizer will work fine for your other plants and the roses will love the fish emulsion. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: ASUsped@aol.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Wednesday, November 20, 2002 12:38 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] rose food for other plants > > Hello everyone, > > I just bought Arizona Best rose food (9 - 11 - 3 ), and has 9 . 00% >Ammoniacal Nitrogen, 11.00% phosphoric acid, soluble potash 3.00%, sulfur >13.00%, iron 5.00%, zinc 1.00%, Magnesium 1.00%, calcium 1.5% and I also >bought Alaska fish fertilizer (fish emulsion) 5 -1 -1. > > I bought these fertilizers for my roses and I was wondering if I >could use them for my other plants: the Arabian Jasmine, Carolina Jasmine, >lantanas and sage. > > I don't mind buying other kind of fertilizers but I would to know your >opinion before I do that..........Mike >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Nov 20 22:08:38 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 22:08:38 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] pyracantha, berries drying up Message-ID: The symptoms you describe could be scab, a fungal infection, that appears as scabby, sunken spots on the berries. The fruit may crack or shrivel and drop. Remove and dispose of fallen leaves in the fall. Avoid overhead sprinkling that splashes spores onto the plant. Water early in the day. Provide plants with proper cultural care. linda Drew Master Gardener >From: HRB85373@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 13:44:26 -0700 (MST) > >I have some very nice pyracantha Santa Cruz shrubs. 3 & 4 years ago they >were filled with nice red berries the birds loved. Last year they seemed >to start the same, but then they all dried up before the birds got to them. > This year they are doing the same. The berries seem to split, red on one >side, the other side blackish & drying up. The plants themselves look >good & healthy, no sign of insects or disease. Anyone know what the >problem is and the cure? Many thanks! > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail From parish@phxhs.k12.az.us Wed Nov 20 22:20:45 2002 From: parish@phxhs.k12.az.us (parish@phxhs.k12.az.us) Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 15:20:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211202220.gAKMKjN10013@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a ficus niteda planted in a circle in the middle of a concrete patio. It started as a 24 inch box plant eight years and is big and beautiful now. However, during the warm months, it continually loses large numbers of leaves. Some turn dark brown around the outer edges, some turn yellow and some fall while still green. I have followed the advise of several people, adjusting the watering schedule up and down to no avail. This time of year, there is no problem. Is there anything I can do during the warm months? From robert460@sympatico.ca Wed Nov 20 21:55:52 2002 From: robert460@sympatico.ca (Robert Higgins) Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 16:55:52 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Non Blooming Catus Message-ID: <3DDC04E8.00000C.98009@default> --------------Boundary-00=_49AW7TH0000000000000 Content-Type: Multipart/Alternative; boundary="------------Boundary-00=_79AW24L0000000000000" --------------Boundary-00=_79AW24L0000000000000 Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hello my name is Wendy and I was hoping to get some secrets to getting my= christmas catus to bloom. I won it at a party 2 years ago and it is goo= d health. Although it has never bloomed for me until this past month if= you call this blooming... I only have one flower now and maybe two more = to come. What is the secret to blossoms? Please help me as I was so ex= cited when the one flower came out. --------------Boundary-00=_79AW24L0000000000000 Content-Type: Text/HTML; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable =0D =0A

Hello my name is Wendy and I was hoping to get some secrets to= =20 getting my christmas catus to bloom. I won it at a party 2 ye= ars ago=20 and it is good health. Although it has never bloomed for = ; me=20 until this past month if you call this blooming... I only have one = flower=20 now and maybe two more to come.   What is the secret to=20 blossoms? Please help me as I was so excited when the one flo= wer=20 came out.

=09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09

____________________________________________________
IncrediMail - Email has finally evolved -=20 Click=20 Here --------------Boundary-00=_79AW24L0000000000000-- --------------Boundary-00=_49AW7TH0000000000000 Content-Type: image/gif Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 Content-ID: <523CDF36-FCA6-11D6-A428-0090D041C3D2> R0lGODlhFAAPALMIAP9gAM9gAM8vAM9gL/+QL5AvAGAvAP9gL////wAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAACH/C05FVFNDQVBFMi4wAwEAAAAh+QQJFAAIACwAAAAAFAAPAAAEVRDJSaudJuudrxlEKI6B URlCUYyjKpgYAKSgOBSCDEuGDKgrAtC3Q/R+hkPJEDgYCjpKr5A8WK9OaPFZwHoPqm3366VKyeRt E30tVVRscMHDqV/u+AgAIfkEBWQACAAsAAAAABQADwAABBIQyUmrvTjrzbv/YCiOZGmeaAQAIfkE CRQACAAsAgABABAADQAABEoQIUOrpXIOwrsPxiQUheeRAgUA49YNhbCqK1kS9grQhXGAhsDBUJgZ AL2Dcqkk7ogFpvRAokSn0p4PO6UIuUsQggSmFjKXdAgRAQAh+QQFCgAIACwAAAAAFAAPAAAEEhDJ Sau9OOvNu/9gKI5kaZ5oBAAh+QQJFAAIACwCAAEAEAANAAAEShAhQ6ulcg7Cuw/GJBSF55ECBQDj 1g2FsKorWRL2CtCFcYCGwMFQmBkAvYNyqSTuiAWm9ECiRKfSng87pQi5SxCCBKYWMpd0CBEBACH5 BAVkAAgALAAAAAAUAA8AAAQSEMlJq7046827/2AojmRpnmgEADs= --------------Boundary-00=_49AW7TH0000000000000-- From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Wed Nov 20 22:47:37 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 15:47:37 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Junipers dying Message-ID: <002b01c290e6$e824d140$cf31db43@ibmbna6040> Lynne, I was unable to find a juniper called Blue Tip even though I have a lising of nearly 100 different varieties. Could it be a Blue Carpet ( Juniperus horizontalis Wiltonii ) ? Was the juniper a ground cover, a shrub or a tree ? I can give you a few of the things that could cause problems. Most junipers planted in the low desert will survive better if planted where they get afternoon shade. Junipers are susceptable to spider mites which if not exterminated could cause their death. Either over or underwatering could cause problems, the soil should be allowed to dry out between waterings. I like the natal plum for a broad leaf evergreen shrub even though it is frost tender. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: lynne.guerrette@intel.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Tuesday, November 12, 2002 4:24 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I planted 4 blue-tip junipers (from 1-gallon pots) last January, watered them according to the nursery's instructions, and saw them grow close to a foot by July. But then they began getting brown from the bottom up, and 3 out of four are now completely dried up despite continued watering. Did they just bake in the summer sun? I plan to replace the dead trees, but if the junipers were victims of our summer sun, what is an evergreen that can tolerate full exposure? I like the non-messiness of evergreens, but would consider other varieties that don't shed. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From DPSilva2@aol.com Thu Nov 21 00:42:45 2002 From: DPSilva2@aol.com (DPSilva2@aol.com) Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 19:42:45 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Drying Goards Message-ID: <150.179cce65.2b0d8605@aol.com> I want to know how to dry goards. I have several but one is molded . How do I dry them. Thank you Don From imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net Thu Nov 21 02:49:00 2002 From: imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 19:49:00 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Non Blooming Catus References: <3DDC04E8.00000C.98009@default> Message-ID: <001a01c2910a$a7a564d0$2c52530c@delljor9501> My wife keeps ours indoors in total darkness during nighttime hours and with only low indoor light in the daytime beginning about October 1. Always seems to work. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert Higgins" Hello my name is Wendy and I was hoping to get some secrets to getting my christmas catus to bloom. I won it at a party 2 years ago and it is good health. Although it has never bloomed for me until this past month if you call this blooming... I only have one flower now and maybe two more to come. What is the secret to blossoms? Please help me as I was so excited when the one flower came out. From imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net Thu Nov 21 03:03:26 2002 From: imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 20:03:26 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Junipers dying References: <002b01c290e6$e824d140$cf31db43@ibmbna6040> Message-ID: <001b01c2910a$aa197210$2c52530c@delljor9501> The Blue Point and Blue Tip junipers are cultivars of juniperus chinensis. The typical Blue Point is pyramid-shaped and is often sold in 1 or 5 gallon containers as a small live Christmas tree. I once tried transplanting one but it died during the summer. The Blue Tip is usually a pfitzer type. It is listed on the plant list on the ASU campus at http://www.fm.asu.edu/plantlist.htm under common name "Blue Tip" and in botanical Latin as Juniperus chinensis 'Hetzii', Juniperus chinensis pfitzeriana, and Juniperus chinensis pfitzeriana . Unfortunately, the hyperlinks to the their plant descriptions do not appear to be working. A foot of growth in 6 months is a lot of growth for a juniper. Like Rod suggested, it is probably a watering problem and with all that initial growth it is more likely to be too much than too little. Once established, junipers require very little water although they will tolerate normal rainfall in most of the US. Native junipers in the Pinion-Juniper life zone in AZ only receive a few more inches more per year than our low desert rainfall. Junipers are probably the best choice for a pine-like evergreen shrub for the low desert. I have grown Pfitzers in locations from full sun to full shade and with various degrees of sun and shade. I also recently removed one that outgrew its space. I don't recall watering it all the past few years. But you mentioned trees and if that is what you want you need to tell us how big it should get. We have two Grey Gleam junipers that are about 17 feet tall, quite a bit taller than the advertised 8-10 foot height. Olin ================================================== ----- Original Message ----- From: > Lynne, > I was unable to find a juniper called Blue Tip even though I have a lising > of nearly 100 different varieties. Could it be a Blue Carpet ( Juniperus > horizontalis Wiltonii ) ? Was the juniper a ground cover, a shrub or a tree > ? > I can give you a few of the things that could cause problems. Most junipers > planted in the low desert will survive better if planted where they get > afternoon shade. Junipers are susceptable to spider mites which if not > exterminated could cause their death. Either over or underwatering could > cause problems, the soil should be allowed to dry out between waterings. > I like the natal plum for a broad leaf evergreen shrub even though it is > frost tender > -----Original Message-----> From: lynne.guerrette@intel.com > >I planted 4 blue-tip junipers (from 1-gallon pots) last January, watered > them according to the nursery's instructions, and saw them grow close to a > foot by July. But then they began getting brown from the bottom up, and 3 > out of four are now completely dried up despite continued watering. Did > they just bake in the summer sun? I plan to replace the dead trees, but if > the junipers were victims of our summer sun, what is an evergreen that can > tolerate full exposure? I like the non-messiness of evergreens, but would > consider other varieties that don't shed. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Nov 21 13:19:28 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 13:19:28 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Non Blooming Cactus Message-ID: Response to an earlier question: According to Maricopa County Cooperative Extension publication MC-38: 'To keep them at their best, bright light and day temperatures of 65 to 70 degrees (55 to 65 degrees at night) is recommended. Keep the potting soil evenly moist, not wet. With proper care, they can be kept for years as indoor potted plants." When you water, make sure the root ball is thoroughly moistened, some drainage into tray to ensure leaching. In the Sunset Western Gardening Book (p. 480) there is a reference to increasing the hours of darkness to 12-14 hours during the month of November, as well as cooler night temps (50-55 degrees) to ensure bloom set during the Christmas holiday season. >From: "Robert Higgins" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Non Blooming Catus >Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 16:55:52 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time) > >Hello my name is Wendy and I was hoping to get some secrets to getting my >christmas catus to bloom. I won it at a party 2 years ago and it is good >health. Although it has never bloomed for me until this past month if you >call this blooming... I only have one flower now and maybe two more to >come. What is the secret to blossoms? Please help me as I was so excited >when the one flower came out. _________________________________________________________________ Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 From rmredfield@fastq.com Thu Nov 21 16:16:44 2002 From: rmredfield@fastq.com (rmredfield@fastq.com) Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 09:16:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211211616.gALGGhN27685@Ag.arizona.edu> What is the curent, most effective treatment for Spider Mites on conifers? From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Thu Nov 21 21:31:51 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 14:31:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ficus nitida losing leaves during summer Message-ID: <001901c291a5$692d4100$5b1d0a3f@ibmbna6040> One of the main causes of excessive leaf drop during hot weather is inadequate irrigation. The brown on the edge of the leaves indicates that the tree is not being watered deep enough to flush the salts out of the root zone. The water should penetrate to a depth of three feet throughout the entire root zone each time the tree is watered. C heck out these sites for info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://www.amwua.org/xscp-wateringschedules.htm Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: parish@phxhs.k12.az.us To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Wednesday, November 20, 2002 3:40 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I have a ficus niteda planted in a circle in the middle of a concrete patio. It started as a 24 inch box plant eight years and is big and beautiful now. However, during the warm months, it continually loses large numbers of leaves. Some turn dark brown around the outer edges, some turn yellow and some fall while still green. I have followed the advise of several people, adjusting the watering schedule up and down to no avail. This time of year, there is no problem. Is there anything I can do during the warm months? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Thu Nov 21 21:42:38 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 14:42:38 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Spider Mites, controlling Message-ID: <002201c291a6$ea6ff680$5b1d0a3f@ibmbna6040> A light infestation can usually be controlled with a strong spray of water done every two to three days when the temperatures are above 75 degrees. Otherwise a miticide such as Vendex, Pentac or Avid should be used. The Avid is systemic and does not require direct contact with the mites to kill them. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: rmredfield@fastq.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Thursday, November 21, 2002 9:27 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >What is the curent, most effective treatment for Spider Mites on conifers? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Nov 21 21:55:44 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 21:55:44 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] spider mites Message-ID: Spider Mites in the Low Desert DESCRIPTION: Tiny creatures, some less than 1/50 of an inch, most Spider Mites are too small to be seen without the aid of a microscope. They are usually oval or rounded in shape and may be yellow, red, greenish, or brownish in color. They were named Spider Mites because they produce a fine webbing between leaves, a sign of infestation. DAMAGE: They suck sap from leaves and fruit, which causes yellow spots or stippling on the leaves. Their feeding may cause deformations such as twisting and stunting of leaves as well. Other types of mites cause galls. MANAGEMENT: A mix of soap and water may be used to wash plant mites off leaves. For large plants (Italian Cypress etc.), a morning rinsing of foliage with a forceful spray of water at least weekly may help. Miticides are also available for the control of Spider Mites. >From: rmredfield@fastq.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 09:16:44 -0700 (MST) > >What is the curent, most effective treatment for Spider Mites on conifers? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From rmredfield@fastq.com Fri Nov 22 00:46:16 2002 From: rmredfield@fastq.com (Robin Redfield) Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 17:46:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Spider Mites, controlling References: <002201c291a6$ea6ff680$5b1d0a3f@ibmbna6040> Message-ID: <3DDD7E58.1000003@fastq.com> Thanks for your suggestions. The trees are extremely large Italian Cypress which are heavily infested. I believe the infestation would require a miticide applied by professionals. Are any of the three products you named preferable? More effective than the others?

Robin

rodmmcq6@highstream.net wrote:

A light infestation can usually be controlled with a strong spray of water done every two to three days when the temperatures are above 75 degrees. Otherwise a miticide such as Vendex, Pentac or Avid should be used. The Avid is systemic and does not require direct contact with the mites to kill them. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: rmredfield@fastq.com <rmredfield@fastq.com> To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu> Date: Thursday, November 21, 2002 9:27 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page

What is the curent, most effective treatment for Spider Mites on conifers? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener

From Jonathan Kandell" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01C291B9.B59037A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Can intermediate-day onions (e.g. Candy, Super Star, Stockton Red) be = grown in Tucson AZ from bulbs, or only short-day varieties (e.g. Texas = Supersweet, Granex, White Bermuda, Souther Belle Red)? jk ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01C291B9.B59037A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Can intermediate-day onions (e.g. Candy, Super = Star,=20 Stockton Red) be grown in Tucson AZ from bulbs, or only short-day = varieties=20 (e.g. Texas Supersweet, Granex, White Bermuda, Souther Belle = Red)?

jk
------=_NextPart_000_0010_01C291B9.B59037A0-- From imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net Fri Nov 22 17:29:23 2002 From: imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2002 10:29:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] onion varities References: <001401c291f4$6929f3c0$88768144@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <006d01c2924d$3325af40$ed52530c@delljor9501> I tried Candy from seed with no success the first year it was available. Last week, I set out intermediate-day plants (from Dixondale Farms) of Candy, Super Star and Stockton Red. Won't have results for 6 months +. I'm guessing he bulbs, if any, will be small. I also set out short-day plants of Texas Grano 1015Y, Yellow Granex (Vidalia), plus a few others just to cover all bets. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jonathan Kandell" Can intermediate-day onions (e.g. Candy, Super Star, Stockton Red) be grown in Tucson AZ from bulbs, or only short-day varieties (e.g. Texas Supersweet, Granex, White Bermuda, Souther Belle Red)? From Nelsfamily@aol.com Fri Nov 22 21:16:10 2002 From: Nelsfamily@aol.com (Nelsfamily@aol.com) Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2002 14:16:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211222116.gAMLGAN24854@Ag.arizona.edu> one of our chilean mesquite trees is sapping out very badly. When the sap is scraped away, there are small holes underneathe. We don't want to lose our tree. What insect is doing this and how do we get rid of it? From aschwartz@bzhlaw.com Sat Nov 23 17:14:42 2002 From: aschwartz@bzhlaw.com (aschwartz@bzhlaw.com) Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 10:14:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211231714.gANHEgN05191@Ag.arizona.edu> Why do my lettuce sprouts die the day they emerge? They are long and spindly, and will not form leaves. They are in full sun, but have been getting water every day; maybe too much? Transplants in the same area as the seeds are doing fine. From lillianBarker@msn.com Sat Nov 23 20:49:02 2002 From: lillianBarker@msn.com (lillianBarker@msn.com) Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 13:49:02 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211232049.gANKn2N22178@Ag.arizona.edu> I am interested in composting in large black plastic garbage bags. Any advice? Thanks! From rking@mindspring.com Sun Nov 24 01:01:07 2002 From: rking@mindspring.com (rking@mindspring.com) Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 18:01:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211240101.gAO117N10829@Ag.arizona.edu> We found a caterpillar, about 3 inches long, green and brown, has kind of a horn on it's tail end. Don't think it's a tomato hornworm. Doesn't look like the picture. It was found on the patio. Is now in a jar writhing around. It seemed to give birth to a tiny little caterpillar. I think it is an alien. Any hints? From mmb@storyteller.net Sun Nov 24 17:23:57 2002 From: mmb@storyteller.net (Michelle B) Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 10:23:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] cold-weather care for jacaranda Message-ID: <5.2.0.9.0.20021124095256.02223860@mail.storyteller.net> Early March I planted a 24" box jacaranda. It is about 10 ft tall with a 3 ft canopy. It has a donut-shaped irrigation basin extending just beyond the drip line. What is the best way to protect the tree from frost?. Thank you! Michelle, in Avondale From ahywd@aol.com Sun Nov 24 17:00:57 2002 From: ahywd@aol.com (ahywd@aol.com) Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 10:00:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211241700.gAOH0vN04045@Ag.arizona.edu> Will you have saturday master gardener classes in the spring for those of us who work during the week? From crymer@Ag.arizona.edu Sun Nov 24 17:36:21 2002 From: crymer@Ag.arizona.edu (Cathy Rymer) Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 10:36:21 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200211241700.gAOH0vN04045@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20021124103034.009474c0@ag.arizona.edu> Thanks for your question on our Master Gardener volunteer training classes. We offer two trainings per year in Maricopa County, each lasting 17 weeks. Typically we hold one off-site beginning in January and the second at our main Extension office on Broadway Road in Phoenix beginning in July. Our summer session just finished which was an evening training (July - October); this is offered every other year. We have never held a Master Gardener training on Saturdays because of the difficulty in arranging for some of our speakers that travel here from campus in Tucson. We do offer classes for the public in the spring and fall. These are held on Saturday mornings and cover a variety of topics. As soon as the schedule is set they are posted on our calendar of events page at http://main.dlv.cals.arizona.edu/garden-calendar/calendar.epl It will be July of 2004 before we are able to offer another evening Master Gardener training. In the meantime you might be interested in landscaping workshops offered by the various city's water conservation offices. These are usually free to residents. Also, the Desert Botanical Garden has a good selection of landscaping and gardening classes. Many of the local private nurseries hold classes as well I hope this helps. Please let me know if you have any questions. Cathy At 10:00 AM 11/24/2002 -0700, ahywd@aol.com wrote: >Will you have saturday master gardener classes in the spring for those of >us who work during the week? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Catherine Rymer Instructional Specialist, Sr., Urban Horticulture University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Phoenix, AZ 85040 http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ From mmb@storyteller.net Sun Nov 24 18:21:38 2002 From: mmb@storyteller.net (Michelle B) Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 11:21:38 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Rod's answer for jacaranda care In-Reply-To: <002601c293e4$9f432700$f01d0a3f@ibmbna6040> Message-ID: <5.2.0.9.0.20021124111636.021e09e0@mail.storyteller.net> Rod, Thank you for your answer regarding the jacaranda. Should the trunk be wrapped, as well? Or just cover the canopy? Thanks! Michelle At 11:09 AM 11/24/02 -0700, you wrote: >Michelle, >Newly planted Jacaranda trees will be damaged at about 25 degrees F. If the >weather forecast for your area is close to that temperature I would suggest >covering the tree with something such as a sheet. More protection will be >provided by a frost blanket that many nurseries sell. Usually the suburbs >have lower temps than what is broadcast on TV. I live in Mesa and I provide >protection for frost tender plants when the forecast is for under 40 >degrees. An indoor- outdoor thermometer will inform you how much lower the >temps are in your locale than in Phoenix. > >Good luck > >Rod McKusick >Master Gardener >-----Original Message----- >From: Michelle B >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Date: Sunday, November 24, 2002 10:24 AM >Subject: [Arid_gardener] cold-weather care for jacaranda > > > >Early March I planted a 24" box jacaranda. It is about 10 ft tall with a 3 > >ft canopy. It has a donut-shaped irrigation basin extending just beyond the > >drip line. What is the best way to protect the tree from frost?. > > > >Thank you! > >Michelle, in Avondale > > From imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net Sun Nov 24 21:44:02 2002 From: imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 14:44:02 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200211232049.gANKn2N22178@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <004f01c29402$9fa26260$3f51530c@delljor9501> I have done it accidentally by collecting garden debris in a plastic bag and leaving it in the sun before putting it on the compost heap. It gets too wet if the stuff is still green and, initially, it turns into a smelly, gooey, wet mess. It is also best not to move the bags for a while after filling because if you poke a hole in the bag the goo can leak out. The following is from and article from the North Carolina State University's Cooperative Extension at http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/hil/hil-8100.html I think we should skip the recommended lime additive because excess acidity is not a problem for us. Olin =================================== "Use of plastic garbage bags is perhaps the simplest way to make compost. The bags are easy to handle, and require minimal maintenance. To make compost using this method, 30-40 gallon plastic bags should be alternatively filled with plant wastes, fertilizer and lime. About one tablespoon of a garden fertilizer with a high nitrogen content should be used per bag. Lime (one cup per bag) helps counteract the extra acidity caused by anaerobic composting. After filling, add about a quart of water. Close tightly. Set aside for six months to a year. Bags can be set in a basement or heated garage for better decomposition during winter months. Using garbage bags requires no turning or additional water after closing. The main advantage of composting in garbage bags is that it requires little maintenance; however, because oxygen is limited, the process is slow." ----- Original Message ----- From: > I am interested in composting in large black plastic garbage bags. Any advice? Thanks! From fred43@iprimus.com.au Mon Nov 25 01:31:01 2002 From: fred43@iprimus.com.au (TRACEY CROSSLAND) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 09:31:01 +0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] growing goards Message-ID: <001b01c29422$51100b00$bb1a32d2@fred43> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C29465.5E824A80 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Please supply me some information regarding growing goards. We live in = Wetern Australia which is almost similar conditions to Arizona, very = deserty. If you know how to acquire the seeds please let me know. = Thanks a lot, from Tracey Crossland, 6 Tuart Pl, Yangebup 6164 Western = Australia, Merry christmas ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C29465.5E824A80 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Please supply me some information = regarding growing=20 goards.   We live in Wetern Australia which is almost = similar=20 conditions to Arizona, very deserty. If you know how to acquire = the seeds=20 please let me know. Thanks a lot, from Tracey Crossland, 6 Tuart = Pl,=20 Yangebup 6164 Western Australia, Merry = christmas
------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C29465.5E824A80-- From slh1120@aol.com Mon Nov 25 02:43:25 2002 From: slh1120@aol.com (slh1120@aol.com) Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 19:43:25 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211250243.gAP2hPN21796@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like to know where i can get a starter for a christmas catus? thank u From dickcarmi@aol.com Mon Nov 25 14:11:06 2002 From: dickcarmi@aol.com (dickcarmi@aol.com) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 07:11:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211251411.gAPEB6N06617@Ag.arizona.edu> One of my Chilean mesquites has some brownness of leaves on a couple of branches. Also just a few leaves on other branches. Is this the time of year? I had one large limb growing near base that seemed to completely die and I cut out. There is some clear crytalized gunk near bottom of trunk. Any ideas what I should look for. Thank you. Dick From gwright@Ag.arizona.edu Mon Nov 25 15:22:55 2002 From: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu (Glenn C. Wright) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 08:22:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: Tangelo tree Message-ID: <5.1.1.6.2.20021125081808.02f22950@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_1125973156==.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Please reply to Mr. Jon K. Thanks. GCW >From: "Jon K" >To: >Subject: Tangelo tree >Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 10:14:03 -0700 >X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2800.1106 > > About 2 weeks ago a nursery plant a tangelo tree in the yard for us > .Area planted has a lawn surrounding the tree, but made sure no grass was > in the canopy area. Also made sure that tree, was planted no deeper, than > the ball of the tree. I got a 30 gallon tree. What concerns me is that > some leaves are dropping & yellowing at the bottom & some at the top. We > were told to water every 3 days for the first 2 weeks . then every7- 10 > days thereafter. I have been filling the well of the tree,& as soon as > the well fills ,I shut off the water. My question is, are we watering too > much,or not long enough? The soil at the surface looks wet,until the 3rd > day. Also i there a possibility, that tree is going through shock, from > transplanting ,of & older tree ? The tree had a small amount of fruit > on when planted. Any help you can give me would be very much appreciated. > >Thank You, > >Jon Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D. Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist University of Arizona - Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center 2186 W. County 15th Street Somerton, AZ 85350 Phone: 928-726-0458 FAX: 928-726-1363 e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu --=====================_1125973156==.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Please reply to Mr. Jon K.
Thanks.
GCW

From: "Jon K" <jakreitz@cableaz.com>
To: <gwright@Ag.arizona.edu>
Subject: Tangelo tree
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 10:14:03 -0700
X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2800.1106

About 2 weeks ago a nursery plant a tangelo tree in the yard for us .Area planted has a lawn surrounding the tree, but made sure no grass was in the canopy area. Also made sure that tree, was planted no deeper, than the ball of the tree. I got a 30 gallon tree. What concerns me is that some leaves are dropping & yellowing at the bottom & some at the top. We were told to water every 3 days for the first 2 weeks . then every7- 10 days thereafter. I have been filling the well of the tree,& as soon as the well fills ,I shut off the water. My question is, are we watering too much,or not long enough? The soil at the surface looks wet,until the 3rd day. Also i there a possibility, that tree is going through shock, from transplanting ,of & older tree ? The tree had a small amount of fruit on when planted. Any help you can give me would be very much appreciated.

Thank You,

Jon

Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D.
Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist
University of Arizona - Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center
2186 W. County 15th Street
Somerton, AZ 85350
Phone: 928-726-0458
FAX: 928-726-1363
e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu --=====================_1125973156==.ALT-- From canrsiegrl@msn.com Mon Nov 25 21:06:35 2002 From: canrsiegrl@msn.com (canrsiegrl@msn.com) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 14:06:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211252106.gAPL6ZN11365@Ag.arizona.edu> I am moving into a home with 4 palm trees (I believe two are date palms) - and the other two are queen palms, maybe. I am not sure. I also have one that is over 100' tall.....I do not like palms personally and would like to have them removed. I don't want to kill them, and was wondering if you could tell me where I may donate them to either a company or park? They are really very pretty, but I am not a palm fan, myself...I would, of course, need them to come and remove them as well...thanks From mikecarmelo1@cox.net Mon Nov 25 22:21:10 2002 From: mikecarmelo1@cox.net (mikecarmelo1@cox.net) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 15:21:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200211252221.gAPMLAN00056@Ag.arizona.edu> i have three small bearing citrus trees which recieve full sun. the center one is loosing leaves as they curl up, turn brown, and drop.. This is recent, say the past two weeks, and is spreading. HELP and thank you From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Mon Nov 25 21:38:40 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 14:38:40 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite leaves turning brown annd dropping Message-ID: <002001c294d8$1dacb5e0$672c0a3f@ibmbna6040> *If you live in the Phoenix area we have not had enough cold weather to cause the mesquites to lose their leaves. I suspect that the tree has not been getting adequate water. The clear gunk you are seeing is only sap and is normal for a mesquite. Check out these sites for info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://www.amwua.org/xscp-wateringschedules.htm Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: dickcarmi@aol.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, November 25, 2002 8:13 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >One of my Chilean mesquites has some brownness of leaves on a couple of branches. Also just a few leaves on other branches. Is this the time of year? I had one large limb growing near base that seemed to completely die and I cut out. There is some clear crytalized gunk near bottom of trunk. Any ideas what I should look for. Thank you. Dick > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Nov 25 23:28:24 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 23:28:24 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] palm salvage and relocation Message-ID: If you live in Tucson, try TC Palms, 622-3570. Otherwise check the yellow pages under "tree service" for palm recycle and relocation services or tree salvage. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: canrsiegrl@msn.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2002 14:06:35 -0700 (MST) > >I am moving into a home with 4 palm trees (I believe two are date palms) - >and the other two are queen palms, maybe. I am not sure. I also have one >that is over 100' tall.....I do not like palms personally and would like