From copper@bargainsail.com Tue Oct 1 03:45:57 2002 From: copper@bargainsail.com (Copper Bittner) Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2002 20:45:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Geraniums - Fall Garden Fair In-Reply-To: Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0043_01C268C2.60FEF160 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Ursula, Since plants are brought in on a donation basis there is no way to know what will be available. I would suggest you come to check things out. The plants will be varied and some exotic. Hope you can make it. Copper Bittner Master Gardener/Maricopa County Chandler AZ -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Ursula Miller Sent: Sunday, September 29, 2002 4:57 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Geraniums - Fall Garden Fair Does anybody know if geraniums will be on sale at the Fair next Saturday? Ursula Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0043_01C268C2.60FEF160 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hi = Ursula,

 

Since plants are brought in on a donation = basis there is no way to know what will be available.=A0 I would suggest you come to check things out.=A0 The plants will be varied and some exotic.=A0 Hope you can make = it.

 

Copper = Bittner

Master Gardener/Maricopa = County

Chandler = AZ

 

-----Original Message-----
From: = arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Ursula Miller
Sent: Sunday, September = 29, 2002 4:57 PM
To: = arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Geraniums - Fall Garden Fair

 

Does anybody know if geraniums will be on sale at the Fair next Saturday?=A0=A0 =

 

Ursula Miller

 <= /p>

------=_NextPart_000_0043_01C268C2.60FEF160-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Oct 1 14:58:51 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 01 Oct 2002 14:58:51 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Mexican lime Message-ID: The fruit of Mexican lime ripens in September and often turns yellow when fully ripe. I believe you are seeing fruit that is ready to be picked -- not a problem. Do they taste O.K.? Linda Drew Master Gardener >Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2002 13:51:23 -0700 (MST) >From: sqwrly@aol.com >To: webmaster@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: Comment from the College site > >Comment: I have a 10 year old Mexican lime tree and this year it is loaded >with limes and they are falling off the tree at a rate of 50 or more every >couple of days. I have not changed watering schedule and they are yellow. >Do I just have too many limes or is it something else? _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Oct 1 12:14:48 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 01 Oct 2002 12:14:48 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] pecan tree age Message-ID: Thanks, George!!! >From: George D >To: Linda Drew >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] pecans >Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2002 19:28:35 -0700 > > > >Linda Drew wrote: > > > > information from Bulletin A63R: > > > > Irrigation is one of the most important factors for successfully > > growing pecan trees. THe soil in the root zone should be kept > > moist, but not saturated, particularly during spring and summer. > > Generally speaking, heavy irrigations should be applied every > > 2 to 3 weeks during the late spring and summer and until nut > > maturity. (Water stress can cause dieback of upper limbs.) > > > > Prune out dead branches and crossing limbs; avoid topping the > > tree. > > > > I haven't been able to find the life expectancy of pecan > > trees, but I think it would be more than 40 years. > > >The pecan in my yard is over 40 ft tall and was a mature tree when we moved >in here over 30 years >ago. I think it is probably in the neighborhood of 50/60 years now and >going strong. > >It is in an irrigated lawn with a shallow water table, less than 12 ft., >yes, right here in Phoenix. > >I copied from this web site. > >http://www.lsjunction.com/tree.htm > >The pecan is a large tree native to North America. It bears sweet edible >nuts, deep brown in color, >that range from 1 to 2 inches in length. > >The mature pecan tree is usually 70 to 100 feet tall, as shown above, but >can grow as tall as 150 >feet and higher. The native pecan trees shown are estimated to be over 150 >years old. Their trunks >are more than three feet in diameter. > > > > Linda Drew > > Master Gardener > > > > >From: gertcarey@cs.com > > >To: > > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > >Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2002 11:21:48 -0700 (MST) > > > > > >Have a pecan tree 40+ years old. Many branches seem to be dead - > > >especially the upper branches. > > >Would having the tree pruned help this situation beside making it look > > >better? Do you think the tree is dying? Is there a life expectancy >for > > >pecan trees? Thanks for your time and answer. > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > > >Arid_gardener mailing list > > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > >-- >George D >Phoenix, AZ > > The reward for a good deed is to have done it. > >Please use this address to mail me. Or remove the arizona in the link. >Remember there is no Arizona. >geodrum@att.net _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From ASUsped@aol.com Tue Oct 1 04:11:07 2002 From: ASUsped@aol.com (ASUsped@aol.com) Date: Tue, 1 Oct 2002 00:11:07 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] winter lawn Message-ID: <169.14b09133.2aca7a5b@aol.com> Do I need to wait until the Bermuda grass go dormant and turn yellow before I plant the winter lawn? My summer lawn is still very green...Mike From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Oct 1 01:48:04 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 01 Oct 2002 01:48:04 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] whiteflies Message-ID: Here are some recommendations from an older, archived response to the whitefly question. Perhaps one of these recommendations will work for you: The University of Arizona recommends the following best management practices for homeowners dealing with whiteflies: * Grow resistant plants, native species seem to have a higher tolerance * Delay planting fall crops & annuals until the whitefly population has declined with the cool weather * Protect plants from stress by planting in an appropriate location, and managing irrigation and fertilization properly. Plants under stress are much more vulnerable. * Encourage beneficial insects which feed on whiteflys by minimizing the use of insecticides. Lacewing, predatory flies, small lady bugs, and big-eyed bugs all feed on whiteflies. * Use polyethylene floating row covers to exclude whiteflies from garden= beds * When necessary, use a soap spray to thoroughly coat the leaves, especially the underside. 1 tsp liquid detergent/gallon of water. Dawn =AE dish washing soap has worked well in trials. DO NOT USE a citrus based detergent which may burn the plants. Avoid spraying the plant during the heat of the day. If the plant seems to tolerate the low dose, you may want to gradually increase the dosage up to 2 TBSP/gallon. Repeat every three to four days as needed. * Hang on till October, whitefly populations decline as the weather cools. Fortunately, we are seeing less of these pests than in the past! Sue Bass Master Gardener >From: arizonagunther@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2002 16:18:40 -0700 (MST) > >My husband and I notcied mostly all my plants have been infested with white >flies. I have tried a product called voick oil. We mixed with water and >have sprayed the plants but have seen no progress what so ever. I have >even noticed my one bedroom in the front of our house was filled with them >they were all flying around inside the house behind the blind when I went >to open the window. Any help in this matter would be appreciated. Also >what is the time period for these flies to be active. Thank you in advance >for your help. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From Evelyn.Gholson@Microchip.com Tue Oct 1 00:39:26 2002 From: Evelyn.Gholson@Microchip.com (Evelyn.Gholson@Microchip.com) Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2002 17:39:26 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200210010039.g910dQl08775@Ag.arizona.edu> My husband and I live in Tempe (near Rural/Elliot) and looking for a gardener to work approximately 2 days/week to help maintain our garden. We do not want a landscaping service, as we have no grass/lawn but prefer someone who knows and loves gardening. Do you know where we could find someone of this caliber? Thanks for your help. Best regards, Evelyn Gholson From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Oct 1 00:03:21 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 01 Oct 2002 00:03:21 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] soil testing labs Message-ID: A list of soil labs is at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/soiltest.htm >From: cchare@qwest.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2002 10:50:17 -0700 (MST) > >Where can I get a soil sample tested? I believe I have heavy salt in one >area of my yard where I want to plant a saguaro. Thanks. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Oct 1 00:30:33 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 01 Oct 2002 00:30:33 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question: How do you transplant Aloe? Message-ID: Aloes are easy to transplant. Lift the aloe out of the container and gently shake soil from the roots. Select and detach small plants that have already rooted. Replant the parent and the new small plants. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Tim Robison >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question: How do you transplant Aloe? >Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2002 12:39:43 -0500 > >I have an Aloe that is growing out of the pot, it has several shoots out of >the pot. > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From cdixonttu@yahoo.com Tue Oct 1 15:32:34 2002 From: cdixonttu@yahoo.com (cdixonttu@yahoo.com) Date: Tue, 1 Oct 2002 08:32:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200210011532.g91FWYl29491@Ag.arizona.edu> When should you overseed your bermuda lawn? What is the recommended method for overseeding? From Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com Tue Oct 1 15:54:54 2002 From: Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com (Zelhart Alan-rpcs30) Date: Tue, 1 Oct 2002 08:54:54 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] winter lawn Message-ID: <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B99307039D1448@az33exm25.corp.mot.com> Mike, No, you can start your winter lawn anytime now. You'll want to start it before it cools down to much. I always start mine the end of September, first of October. I believe the recommended time is mid-October. Scalp your grass as low as your lawn mower will cut. Seed the lawn with your winter grass. My recommendation is the "Perennial" mix. It costs more, but it doesn't clog up your lawnmower as bad if it's a little wet when mowing. It also looks nicer in my humble opinion, and it does not stain your shoes and cloths as bad when mowing. I always sprinkle my grass clippings over the grass seed to keep them moist. I then begin the watering process. Water once every 3 hours for 5 minutes for about 4 to 5 times per day. You should have grass showing up within 4 to 5 days. Once the grass has started coming up nicely, I cut back on watering. Good luck! -- Chat with you later... ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com Hey, this isn't my tagline ! Who put it here ? -----Original Message----- From: ASUsped@aol.com [mailto:ASUsped@aol.com] Sent: Monday, September 30, 2002 9:11 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] winter lawn Do I need to wait until the Bermuda grass go dormant and turn yellow before I plant the winter lawn? My summer lawn is still very green...Mike _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From loreli.marx@vw.com Tue Oct 1 21:25:41 2002 From: loreli.marx@vw.com (loreli.marx@vw.com) Date: Tue, 1 Oct 2002 14:25:41 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200210012125.g91LPfH20272@Ag.arizona.edu> Greens n-Things in Casa Grande have been unable to find a Texas Olive for me. Do you know where I can get a couple? Thansk, Loreli From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Oct 1 17:44:02 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 01 Oct 2002 17:44:02 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] winter lawn Message-ID: No, although it should be starting to go dormant now. Recommended planting times are when daytime temps are under 90 degrees and night time lows are in the mid 60s which will usually fall in mid October. Seven Steps for Overseeding: Managing Bermuda Grass, Scalping and Dethatching, Selecting Seed and Sowing, Top Dressing,Watering, Mowing, and Fertilizing. 1. Managing Bermuda Grass $ Your Bermuda grass needs to be managed to slow down growth and encourage food storage for dormancy. But do not overseed your Bermuda lawn until its second year. $ Do not fertilize for four to six weeks before overseeding. $ Two weeks before overseeding, reduce watering by 50 percent. 2. Scalping and Dethatching $ Scalp (mow) Bermuda grass to ½ inch in height. $ Heavy dethatching of Bermuda grass should not be a part of fall overseeding. $ Dethatch only if heavy thatch exists (more than ½ inch), and just enough to open the canopy and allow the seeds to make contact with the soil. Thatch is a fibrous, straw-like layer between the soil and the grass blades. $ Early and midsummer dethatching is best. $ If dethatching is done too late in the summer or in early fall when temperatures are warm (above 90 degrees), it may indirectly injure the grass because the Bermuda will put energy into new growth instead of slowing down and preparing for its winter rest. Bermuda grass needs this slowing period in order to successfully compete in the spring with any surviving rye grass. complete article is at: http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/arid_gardener/4521.html >From: ASUsped@aol.com >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] winter lawn >Date: Tue, 1 Oct 2002 00:11:07 EDT > > > Do I need to wait until the Bermuda grass go dormant and turn >yellow >before I plant the winter lawn? My summer lawn is still very green...Mike >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From juliepmc1@cox.net Tue Oct 1 23:49:24 2002 From: juliepmc1@cox.net (Julie Barnhill) Date: Tue, 1 Oct 2002 16:49:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Garden fair?? References: <200210012223.g91MNNH03663@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <004501c269a5$2bcd7280$10c00244@cx793642a> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0042_01C2696A.7F46EE40 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable When and where is the garden fair? Thanks........ Julie ------=_NextPart_000_0042_01C2696A.7F46EE40 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
When and where = is the garden=20 fair?
 
Thanks........
 
Julie
------=_NextPart_000_0042_01C2696A.7F46EE40-- From skidster9@aol.com Tue Oct 1 23:03:03 2002 From: skidster9@aol.com (skidster9@aol.com) Date: Tue, 1 Oct 2002 16:03:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200210012303.g91N33H12897@Ag.arizona.edu> I designed a commercial irrigation system to specs, unfortunately those specs have changed. At the end of four zones the coverage needs to be extended. Two of the zones require an additional 100+ ft. of popup spray heads. One zone needs 4 additional 3gal. rotators. The last I believe will result in a new zone. Is there anything I can do with the other 3 short of digging new zones, re: booster pumps, etc. system design reqs 100psi & 25gpm From kmoore@Ag.arizona.edu Tue Oct 1 23:58:00 2002 From: kmoore@Ag.arizona.edu (Kathleen Moore) Date: Tue, 01 Oct 2002 16:58:00 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Garden Festival [Arid_Gardener] In-Reply-To: <004501c269a5$2bcd7280$10c00244@cx793642a> References: <200210012223.g91MNNH03663@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20021001165409.00b18a70@ag.arizona.edu> Hi Julie, Our Fall Garden Festival will be held this weekend October 5, 2002 from 8-2:00 pm at Metro Tech Union High School. It is located at 1900 W. Thomas Avenue (Northwest Corner of 19th Ave and Thomas). The Festival will have a plant and rummage sale, garden clubs and vendors, and Master Gardeners on hand to answer your questions. The festival is free. The following Saturday October 12, 2002 we will be holding a Garden Fair/Open house for our gardens around our Main Office building located at 4341 E. Broadway Road in Phoenix. This event will last from 9:00-2:00 pm and is also free. We hope to see you there! Kathleen Moore Instructional Specialist Maricopa County Cooperative Extension (602) 470-8086 ext. 306 From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Oct 2 00:57:26 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 02 Oct 2002 00:57:26 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] winter lawn Message-ID: re: winter lawn >Recommended planting times are when daytime temps are >under 90 degrees and night time lows are in the mid 60s >which will usually fall in mid October. > >Seven Steps for Overseeding: >Managing Bermuda Grass, Scalping and Dethatching, Selecting Seed >and Sowing, Top Dressing,Watering, Mowing, and Fertilizing. > >1. Managing Bermuda Grass >$ Your Bermuda grass needs to be managed to slow down growth and >encourage food storage for dormancy. But do not overseed your Bermuda lawn >until its second year. >$ Do not fertilize for four to six weeks before overseeding. >$ Two weeks before overseeding, reduce watering by 50 percent. >2. Scalping and Dethatching >$ Scalp (mow) Bermuda grass to ½ inch in height. >$ Heavy dethatching of Bermuda grass should not be a part of fall >overseeding. >$ Dethatch only if heavy thatch exists (more than ½ inch), and just >enough to open the canopy and allow the seeds to make contact with the >soil. Thatch is a fibrous, straw-like layer between the soil and the grass >blades. >$ Early and midsummer dethatching is best. >$ If dethatching is done too late in the summer or in early fall when >temperatures are warm (above 90 degrees), it may indirectly injure the >grass because the Bermuda will put energy into new growth instead of >slowing down and preparing for its winter rest. Bermuda grass needs this >slowing period in order to successfully compete in the spring with any >surviving rye grass. > >complete article is at: >http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/arid_gardener/4521.html > _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From crcreno@hotmail.com Wed Oct 2 16:43:01 2002 From: crcreno@hotmail.com (crcreno@hotmail.com) Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 09:43:01 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200210021643.g92Gh1H29466@Ag.arizona.edu> I have bamboo in the northeastern corner of my back yard. It is the type that has thin stems and small leaves, not the large stalks that create kind of a wall. This plant is short and bushy. The leaves have been yellow for a few months and do not respond to fertilizing. Any ideas for me? From mcsellars@cox.net Wed Oct 2 16:19:07 2002 From: mcsellars@cox.net (Chris Sellars) Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 09:19:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] sisso trees Message-ID: <000801c26a2f$6f915d80$1c00000a@b8y4f5> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C269F4.C2691B00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi, I found you on the internet and was wondering if you could answer a = question for me? =20 Do you trim sisso trees, and if so how and how often? Thanks, =20 Chris Sellars ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C269F4.C2691B00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi, I found you on the internet and was = wondering=20 if you could answer a question for me? 
 
Do you trim sisso trees, and if so how = and how=20 often?
 
Thanks, 
Chris = Sellars
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C269F4.C2691B00-- From mosesnbutterfly@qwest.net Wed Oct 2 16:53:07 2002 From: mosesnbutterfly@qwest.net (mosesnbutterfly@qwest.net) Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 09:53:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200210021653.g92Gr7H02112@Ag.arizona.edu> I recently purchased a plant at Summerwinds that I was told could thrive in a very hot location in my garden. During the day it wilts and then perks up at night. I cannot find info on it in my Desert Landscaping CD nor in my other arid gardening books. Can anyone give me info on this plant? HAMELIA PATENS. COMMON NAME: FIREBUSH Thanks. From imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net Wed Oct 2 18:23:13 2002 From: imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 11:23:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200210021653.g92Gr7H02112@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <003401c26a40$ccd22310$a250530c@delljor9501> I found lots of information about it on the web using a google search with keywords Hamelia patens. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > I recently purchased a plant at Summerwinds that I was told could thrive in a very hot location in my garden. During the day it wilts and then perks up at night. I cannot find info on it in my Desert Landscaping CD nor in my other arid gardening books. Can anyone give me info on this plant? HAMELIA PATENS. COMMON NAME: FIREBUSH Thanks From onin2az@msn.com Wed Oct 2 19:58:51 2002 From: onin2az@msn.com (SHIRL/JIM PEHRSSON/POUNTAIN) Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 12:58:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mex. Fan Palm Message-ID: ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C26A13.74D78740 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Do the roots of a MFP present a danger to a swimming pool approx. 8-10 ft= . away. Trees are approx. 10 ft. high, 5 yrs. old, and the trunks are abo= ut 18 in. thick. Also, the lower fronds hide the trunks well but should t= hey be trimmed to promote upward growth? Thanks for any help. Jim Pountain ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C26A13.74D78740 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Do the roots o= f a MFP present a danger to a swimming pool approx. 8-10 ft. away. Trees = are approx. 10 ft. high, 5 yrs. old, and the trunks are about 18 in. thic= k. Also, the lower fronds hide the trunks well but should they be trimmed= to promote upward growth?
Thanks for any help.
 
Jim Pountain
 
------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C26A13.74D78740-- From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Wed Oct 2 22:31:35 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 15:31:35 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] sisso trees Message-ID: <002201c26a63$78960780$8931db43@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001F_01C26A28.CADFDCE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Chris As with any newly planted tree it is wise to only prune dead or damaged = branches from the tree to allow the trunk to obtain maximum strength = and girth for at least two years. At that time you can start raising the = crown as necessary and removing crossing and or misplaced branches. = Hopefully you allowed plenty of room for the Sissoo tree to grow for it = can grow to 80 feet tall. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener=20 -----Original Message----- From: Chris Sellars To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Wednesday, October 02, 2002 9:52 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] sisso trees Hi, I found you on the internet and was wondering if you could answer = a question for me? =20 Do you trim sisso trees, and if so how and how often? Thanks, =20 Chris Sellars ------=_NextPart_000_001F_01C26A28.CADFDCE0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Chris
As with any newly planted tree it is wise to only = prune dead=20 or damaged branches from the tree to allow the  trunk to = obtain =20 maximum strength and girth for at least two years. At that time you can = start=20 raising the crown as necessary and removing crossing and or = misplaced=20 branches. Hopefully you allowed plenty of room for the Sissoo tree to = grow for=20 it can grow to 80 feet tall.
 
Good luck.
 
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener 
-----Original = Message-----
From:=20 Chris Sellars <mcsellars@cox.net>
To: = Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu = <Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Date:=20 Wednesday, October 02, 2002 9:52 AM
Subject: = [Arid_gardener] sisso=20 trees

Hi, I found you on the internet and = was wondering=20 if you could answer a question for me? 
 
Do you trim sisso trees, and if so = how and how=20 often?
 
Thanks, 
Chris=20 Sellars
------=_NextPart_000_001F_01C26A28.CADFDCE0-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Oct 3 02:58:30 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 03 Oct 2002 02:58:30 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] bamboo, heavenly bamboo Message-ID: REsponse to an earlier posting: Check out the website of the American Bamboo Society. The Tierra Seca chapter has principals based in Tucson, and there is a direct link to them from this site. http://www.bamboo.org/abs/ The Sunset Western Garden Book has a substantial discussion on bamboo as well. Their 5 pages are too much to summarize here. Linda Guy Master Gardener --------------------------------- Is the plant you have "heavenly bamboo"? Your desciption sounds similiar. This is not a bamboo at all but Nandina domestica. If so, it will yellow from iron chlorosis. Have you applied a chelated iron to it? That might be what is needed. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: crcreno@hotmail.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 09:43:01 -0700 (MST) > >I have bamboo in the northeastern corner of my back yard. It is the type >that has thin stems and small leaves, not the large stalks that create kind >of a wall. This plant is short and bushy. The leaves have been yellow for a >few months and do not respond to fertilizing. Any ideas for me? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From cbi64i@cox.net Thu Oct 3 01:35:55 2002 From: cbi64i@cox.net (cbi64i@cox.net) Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 18:35:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200210030135.g931ZtH19115@Ag.arizona.edu> getting ready to do winter lawn need instructions as to watering , best time to plant, fertilizing,etc thanx From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Oct 3 00:20:44 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 03 Oct 2002 00:20:44 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hamelia patens, fire bush Message-ID: I'm not familiar with this plant but what I've been able to find says it is a relative of the gardenia, native to southern Florida and South America, 6-10 feet tall and 5-6 feet wide. It needs LOTS of water during the growing season and regular water at other times. Also needs good drainage (similar to rose culture???) In Zone 13 (Phoenix) it says it will die to the ground in winter without frost protection. Sounds like it needs more water than you arte supplying. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: mosesnbutterfly@qwest.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 09:53:07 -0700 (MST) > >I recently purchased a plant at Summerwinds that I was told could thrive in >a very hot location in my garden. During the day it wilts and then perks >up at night. I cannot find info on it in my Desert Landscaping CD nor in >my other arid gardening books. Can anyone give me info on this plant? >HAMELIA PATENS. COMMON NAME: FIREBUSH Thanks. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Oct 3 12:43:30 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 03 Oct 2002 12:43:30 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] winter lawn Message-ID: Instructions can be found at: http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/arid_gardener/4474.html also check the Master Gardener Manual: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: cbi64i@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 18:35:55 -0700 (MST) > >getting ready to do winter lawn >need instructions as to watering , best time to plant, fertilizing,etc > >thanx > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Oct 3 12:36:24 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 03 Oct 2002 12:36:24 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Dahlbergia sissoo trees Message-ID: Mary Rose Duffield and Warren Jones book, "Plants for Dry Climates", says sissoo should be pruned in January; thin interior to allow wind to move through canopy. Prune carefully to develop a strong branch structure. for more information about pruning technique, check: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/pruning/index.html Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Chris Sellars" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] sisso trees >Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2002 09:19:07 -0700 > >Hi, I found you on the internet and was wondering if you could answer a >question for me? > >Do you trim sisso trees, and if so how and how often? > >Thanks, >Chris Sellars _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From rsedholm@yahoo.com Thu Oct 3 17:04:49 2002 From: rsedholm@yahoo.com (rsedholm@yahoo.com) Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 10:04:49 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200210031704.g93H4nH18550@Ag.arizona.edu> JUST NOTICED SEVERAL ORANGES ON OUR TREE THAT HAVE SPLIT OPEN. IS THERE AN ANSWER? THANK YOU From bigbobber12@msn.com Fri Oct 4 14:06:04 2002 From: bigbobber12@msn.com (bigbobber12@msn.com) Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 07:06:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200210041406.g94E64H20078@Ag.arizona.edu> I have several large queen palms that are turning yellow. I have tried varying the amount of water and also have given them Ironite. Now the newest leaves are even drooping over as soon as they start to sprout. Any suggestions? From jeanine2dana@aol.com Fri Oct 4 13:51:28 2002 From: jeanine2dana@aol.com (jeanine2dana@aol.com) Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 06:51:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200210041351.g94DpSH17994@Ag.arizona.edu> I bought an orange citris tree from an indian reservation which was in a cup in the box. I planted it in a nice sized pot and it seems to be doing well. I live in Marathon Florida and others have said orang trees are hard to grow here and I'm getting worried about that! I really want to be succesful in properly growing my plant...It's been seven months now and it's about two feet tall and bushy...now not only would I like to properly take care of my plant I need to know when to transplant in a bigger pot..... Question..-how will I know if my tree is root bound????? Thanks so much for your help...sincerely,a worried rooky From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Oct 4 00:27:05 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 04 Oct 2002 00:27:05 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] citrus, orange split Message-ID: This answer was posted earlier to a similar question: This condition is usually thought to be a result of inappropriate watering practices. You can see a discussion of this under September's or October's Timely Tips at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/sept.htm The only recommendation is to study up on good irrigation practices [see AZ 1151 at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Citrus and implement them for next year's fruit production. Fertilization is recommended three times a year [Feb/Mar May/June Aug/Sept]. If your trees were not fertilized since 1999, perhaps that's an issue. I cannot comment on the foliar spray, not knowing what is was and for what purpose. Your tangelo may be more sensitive than the navel or grapefruit. It may also fare less well because they typically prefer a situation where cross-pollination is available [vs. self-pollination]. You might glean some other insights from our pub AZ 1001 discussing different citrus varieties, their strengths and weaknesses. Linda Guy Master Gardener >From: rsedholm@yahoo.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2002 10:04:49 -0700 (MST) > >JUST NOTICED SEVERAL ORANGES ON OUR TREE THAT HAVE SPLIT OPEN. IS THERE AN >ANSWER? >THANK YOU > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From bsharpe@ci.glendale.az.us Fri Oct 4 18:25:05 2002 From: bsharpe@ci.glendale.az.us (bsharpe@ci.glendale.az.us) Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 11:25:05 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200210041825.g94IP5H12205@Ag.arizona.edu> I am a librarian helping a patron. Our questions is, what outdoor plants and/or trees produce oxgyen? What outdoor plants and trees found in the Wichita, Kansas area would be good oxygen producers? If you need any more information, please send me a note. Thank you very much. Bette From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Oct 4 20:33:06 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 04 Oct 2002 20:33:06 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] plants produce oxygen Message-ID: You might want to try some searches on the internet to find more information (I use google.com). All green plants produce oxygen as part of the photosynthesis process. Here is an example lesson plan for schools: http://www.tnrcc.state.tx.us/air/monops/lessons/breathingeasylesson.html Trees are often listed as valuable oxygen producers, so the trees native to your area would be a good place to start. Plants can also reduce indoor air pollution. for more infoprmation about this, see: http://www.zone10.com/wsdocs/tech/NASA/fyh.htm Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: bsharpe@ci.glendale.az.us >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 11:25:05 -0700 (MST) > >I am a librarian helping a patron. Our questions is, what outdoor plants >and/or trees produce oxgyen? What outdoor plants and trees found in the >Wichita, Kansas area would be good oxygen producers? If you need any more >information, please send me a note. > >Thank you very much. >Bette > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Oct 4 20:40:27 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 04 Oct 2002 20:40:27 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen plams turning yellow Message-ID: You may want to try using a fertilizer specifically for palms; these fertilizers contain the micronutrients, such as manganese, that palm trees need. from an earlier resonse to a similar question: Manganese deficiency is quite common in Queen Palms growing in our alkaline soil. Early symptoms are an overall yellowing of the new palm leaves. As the deficency becomes worse it stunts and distorts the new growth ( fizzle top ). If left untreated the palms may die. It takes several months after treatment for any change to be visable because the leaves within the palm must grow out before a change will be seen. The general purpose palm food fertilizer usually does not have enough manganese to correct a severe deficiency. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: bigbobber12@msn.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 07:06:04 -0700 (MST) > >I have several large queen palms that are turning yellow. I have tried >varying the amount of water and also have given them Ironite. Now the >newest leaves are even drooping over as soon as they start to sprout. Any >suggestions? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Oct 4 20:48:19 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 04 Oct 2002 20:48:19 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] orange tree Message-ID: Sounds like you are enjoying learning how to grow your orange tree! Good for you. If you begin to see roots coming out of the drainage hole in the pot you will need to move your orange tree up to a larger container. We are in southern Arizona, so you probably should contact your Cooperative Extension Office (check in the County pages of your phone book) to find out what specifically you need to do in Marathon, Florida. Good luck! We all started out as rookies. Linda Drew >From: jeanine2dana@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 06:51:28 -0700 (MST) > >I bought an orange citris tree from an indian reservation which was in a >cup in the box. I planted it in a nice sized pot and it seems to be doing >well. I live in Marathon Florida and others have said orang trees are hard >to grow here and I'm getting worried about that! I really want to be >succesful in properly growing my plant...It's been seven months now and >it's about two feet tall and bushy...now not only would I like to properly >take care of my plant I need to know when to transplant in a bigger >pot..... >Question..-how will I know if my tree is root bound????? >Thanks so much for your help...sincerely,a worried rooky > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From bradleyl@Ag.arizona.edu Fri Oct 4 21:01:55 2002 From: bradleyl@Ag.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Fri, 04 Oct 2002 14:01:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Job opportunities at Boyce Thompson Arboretum Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20021004140032.01c7dc10@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_19455475==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Greetings!! There are two positions opening at Boyce Thompson Arboretum, near Globe, AZ: Instructional Specialist Senior, Arboretum Affairs: The Instructional Specialist, Senior develops, presents and helps to coordinate educational activities, projects and programs for the Boyce Thompson Arboretum. Full Time ($25,478 - $31,090) http://www.hr.arizona.edu/25008xacxoutx.htm Horticultural Retail Center Coordinator: The Horticultural Retail Center Coordinator plans, organizes, coordinates and monitors the staff, operations, budget and inventory of the Boyce Thompson Arboretum horticultural retail store and nursery, which support agriculture educational outreach through the cultivation and sale of arid land horticultural specimens, books and souvenirs. This position also coordinates initial Arboretum visitor contact. Full Time ($25,478 - $31,090) http://www.hr.arizona.edu/25007xadxoutx.htm For more information see http://www.hr.arizona.edu/01_rec/jobsonline.php or contact Jane Rua Lucy ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens --=====================_19455475==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Greetings!!

There are two positions opening at Boyce Thompson Arboretum, near Globe, AZ:

Instructional Specialist Senior, Arboretum Affairs:  The Instructional Specialist, Senior develops, presents and helps to coordinate educational activities, projects and programs for the Boyce Thompson Arboretum. Full Time  ($25,478 - $31,090)
http://www.hr.arizona.edu/25008xacxoutx.htm


Horticultural Retail Center Coordinator:  The Horticultural Retail Center Coordinator plans, organizes, coordinates and monitors the staff, operations, budget and inventory of the Boyce Thompson Arboretum horticultural retail store and nursery, which support agriculture educational outreach through the cultivation and sale of arid land horticultural specimens, books and souvenirs. This position also coordinates initial Arboretum visitor contact. Full Time ($25,478 - $31,090)
http://www.hr.arizona.edu/25007xadxoutx.htm

For more information see
http://www.hr.arizona.edu/01_rec/jobsonline.php

or contact Jane Rua<ruajane@ag.arizona.edu>

Lucy

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ  85040-8807

Phone:  (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax:  (602) 470-8092
email:  BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/
http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens

 --=====================_19455475==_.ALT-- From lauxman@Ag.arizona.edu Fri Oct 4 21:27:52 2002 From: lauxman@Ag.arizona.edu (Lisa Lauxman) Date: Fri, 04 Oct 2002 14:27:52 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rodeo/Chediski Wildfire Recovery Team needs VOLUNTEERS Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20021004142415.045e0e68@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_19455545==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed I am writing today on behalf of the Rodeo/Chediski Wildfire Recovery Team. My name is Eva Packer and I am the Resource Coordinator for the team. I'm sure you have seen on the news the devastation that we have gone through. We have literally thousands of acres to restore. You can either work on private land or public. There were many victims of this disaster that either had no insurance or was under-insured. An overwhelming number are elderly. We have had several heart attacks, and even a few deaths in the aftermath of this fire. The work we have available will include, cutting, chipping, filling in stump holes, raking, spreading grass seed, spreading straw, and quite a lot of heavy equipment work. There has been a lot of volunteers coming to help on the weekends, but this is a really huge job and we are looking for more volunteers. If you have a weekend you could give to our efforts, we here on the mountain would be very grateful. You can tell the operator what type of work your group is volunteering to do. For more information you can email me, rodeochediski@yahoo.com or call the Recovery Center, toll free at 1-866-880-5405. Or you can call me directly at (928) 532-5389. We really need your help. Thanks for your time, and thanks in advance for your time and efforts. www.geocities.com/lindenaz/index.html VOLUNTEERS ARE THE HEART OF ARIZONA! PLEASE JOIN US TODAY! --=====================_19455545==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" I am writing today on behalf of the Rodeo/Chediski Wildfire Recovery Team. My name is Eva Packer and I am the Resource Coordinator for the team.

I'm sure you have seen on the news the devastation that we have gone through. We have literally thousands of acres to restore. You can either work on private land or public. There were many victims of this disaster that either had no insurance or was under-insured. An overwhelming number are elderly. We have had several heart attacks, and even a few deaths in the aftermath of this fire.

The work we have available will include, cutting, chipping, filling in stump holes, raking, spreading grass seed, spreading straw, and quite a lot of heavy equipment work. There has been a lot of volunteers coming to help on the weekends, but this is a really huge job and we are looking for more volunteers.

If you have a weekend you could give to our efforts, we here on the mountain would be very grateful. You can tell the operator what type of work your group is volunteering to do. For more information you can email me, rodeochediski@yahoo.com or call the Recovery Center, toll free at 1-866-880-5405. Or you can call me directly at (928) 532-5389. We really need your help. Thanks for your time, and thanks in advance for your time and efforts. www.geocities.com/lindenaz/index.html

VOLUNTEERS ARE THE HEART OF ARIZONA! PLEASE JOIN US TODAY!

--=====================_19455545==_.ALT-- From bobmyrnavandiver@earthlink.net Fri Oct 4 22:38:19 2002 From: bobmyrnavandiver@earthlink.net (bobmyrnavandiver@earthlink.net) Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 15:38:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200210042238.g94McJH02618@Ag.arizona.edu> I`m trying to grow tomatoes, but they are only getting to 1 inch and then they get ripe before they attain any size. What can be done to get them get to full size. I`ve planted Big Boy and Early Girl. I`ve just planted some other ones in a different location. I`ve planted some Big Beef and early girl. I hope you can give me the help I need. Thank you. Bob V. From jwindol@pbtcomm.net Sat Oct 5 00:45:49 2002 From: jwindol@pbtcomm.net (Jerry Powell) Date: Fri, 04 Oct 2002 20:45:49 -0400 Subject: [Arid_gardener] what'sit? Message-ID: <000801c26c08$8dcd10c0$0000a398@yourw92p4bhlzg> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C26BE7.05D41E00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I'm looking for a tree name. Fast growing,large broad leaves similar to = a catawba tree. Seed comes in a pod that looks like a pecan. I've been = told Palonius,Pimona, etc. These things grow like crazy once they're = started and can be grown from mere fragments. What is the name I'm = looking for? ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C26BE7.05D41E00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I'm looking for a tree name. Fast = growing,large=20 broad leaves similar to a catawba tree. Seed comes in a pod that looks = like a=20 pecan. I've been told Palonius,Pimona, etc. These things grow like crazy = once=20 they're started and can be grown from mere fragments. What is the name = I'm=20 looking for?
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C26BE7.05D41E00-- From stevendrew@mindspring.com Sat Oct 5 03:07:38 2002 From: stevendrew@mindspring.com (Steven C. Drew) Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 20:07:38 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hamelia Repens Message-ID: <002b01c26c1c$5dff4610$b0d056d1@Global> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0028_01C26BE1.B022F5D0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I planted a 5 gal Hamelia repens back in June, on the west side of my = garage where it gets blasted by the reflected heat. The plant is doing = very well. Your plant may have had some root damage during transprtation = or planting. Mine never wilted and is doing well now with watering about = every 5-7 days now. I am hoping that the warm location will help it get = through the winter. I made a well that extends an extra 2 feet all = around the plant and am encouraging lateral root growth. There is a very fine Hamelia repens growing on the south side of the = Maricopa County Cooperative Extension Service Office in Phoenix. Don't let yours dry out too much until it gets established. In it's = native habitat, this plant thrives, and I think that it will do well = here as well once it gets going. Good Luck. ------=_NextPart_000_0028_01C26BE1.B022F5D0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I planted a 5 gal Hamelia repens back = in June, on=20 the west side of my garage where it gets blasted by the reflected heat. = The=20 plant is doing very well. Your plant may have had some root damage = during=20 transprtation or planting. Mine never wilted and is doing well now with = watering=20 about every 5-7 days now. I am hoping that the warm location will help = it get=20 through the winter. I made a well that extends an extra 2 feet all = around the=20 plant and am encouraging lateral root growth.
 
There is a very fine Hamelia=20 repens growing on the south side of the Maricopa County Cooperative = Extension Service Office in Phoenix.
 
Don't let yours dry out too much until = it gets=20 established. In it's native habitat, this plant thrives, and I think = that it=20 will do well here as well once it gets going.
 
Good Luck.
------=_NextPart_000_0028_01C26BE1.B022F5D0-- From imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net Sat Oct 5 03:40:56 2002 From: imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 20:40:56 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Tomato Ripening References: <200210042238.g94McJH02618@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <00d001c26c21$0b31aa40$7053530c@delljor9501> ----- Original Message ----- From: > I`m trying to grow tomatoes, but they are only getting to 1 inch and then they get ripe before they attain any size. What can be done to get them get to full size. I`ve planted Big Boy and Early Girl. I`ve just planted some other ones in a different location. I`ve planted some Big Beef and early girl. I hope you can give me the help I need. Thank you. Bob V. Probably due to the heat. If you live in the low desert, the high daytime temps before this week could accelerate ripening. Planting dates are also important. Check the planting schedule for the low desert at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1005.pdf Olin From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Oct 5 12:56:50 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 05 Oct 2002 12:56:50 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] tomatoes, small size Message-ID: Here are responses to similar questions in the past: Of the tomatoes you list, Early Girl is usually a pretty good producer early in the season and its fruit is typically small. Better Boy sometimes yields a few fairly good-sized tomatoes. Beefsteak rarely sets any sizeable fruit here. Tomato transplants should be set out in the garden by the end of February to get early fruit set because they won't set fruit at higher temperatures in the 90s. Suitable transplants for our area may not be available at that time and you may want to grow your own indoors from seed starting around New Years Day. If you tend them throughout the summer, they might come back in the fall when the weather cools. A few early small-fruited indeterminates like Early Girl and some of the cherry types are good producers. Although selecting suitable varieties is important, too much nitrogen fertilizer and overwatering can also result in excessive vegetation growth at the expense of fruit production. You are probably noticing the plant itself is "stressed". Because of the heat here in the valley, we are well past the "good" time for fruit growth. (end of June) Tomatoes need to be out as sets in late February. The varieties you mentioned should have set most of their fruit by early to mid-April. You also need to assure them good sun almost all day (a minimum of 6-8 hours). I feed my tomatos (in containers) once a week with Miracle Grow Tomatoe Food. and water almost daily when it gets above 90 degrees. Today I have picked the last of the crop (end of June), all of which are very tasty but, many are very small. During the highth of the season and for a period of eight weeks, I picked 6 to 8 full sized tomatoes per plant every two to three days. My average plant production was about 50 tomatos. I have not had good luck with Beefsteak. However Celebrity is a good substitute for the Salt River Valley. >From: bobmyrnavandiver@earthlink.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 4 Oct 2002 15:38:19 -0700 (MST) > >I`m trying to grow tomatoes, but they are only getting to 1 inch and then >they get ripe before they attain any size. What can be done to get them get >to full size. I`ve planted Big Boy and Early Girl. I`ve just planted some >other ones in a different location. I`ve planted some Big Beef and early >girl. I hope you can give me the help I need. Thank you. Bob V. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From a.anthonyandsons@cox.net Sat Oct 5 19:48:15 2002 From: a.anthonyandsons@cox.net (a.anthonyandsons@cox.net) Date: Sat, 5 Oct 2002 12:48:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200210051948.g95JmFH25911@Ag.arizona.edu> I have some algeraian ivy that seems to be wilting and then dieing. What is the cause and what can i do to prevent it? From Jazzcats@fastQ.com Sat Oct 5 20:23:59 2002 From: Jazzcats@fastQ.com (Jazzcats@fastQ.com) Date: Sat, 5 Oct 2002 13:23:59 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200210052023.g95KNxH28273@Ag.arizona.edu> Two of my three usually healthy, 15-year old shaded mock orange pittosporum shrubs have developed an unknown disease. The edges of the outer leaves have suddenly turned brown and curled, there appears to be a thick, sticky, clear fluid on some of the branches and leaves, as well as black or brown specs on the leaves. The problem has been spreading from one plant to another and hosing down the leaves has been ineffective. It began a few weeks ago and I suspect a fungus but I am not sure. Any thoughts??? Thanks very much... From serawls@juno.com Sat Oct 5 21:28:19 2002 From: serawls@juno.com (serawls@juno.com) Date: Sat, 5 Oct 2002 14:28:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200210052128.g95LSJH03119@Ag.arizona.edu> Where is the best place in the valley to purchase rose bushes? What type of roses are best (hardiest)? From kameomonson@cox.net Sun Oct 6 01:48:38 2002 From: kameomonson@cox.net (kameomonson@cox.net) Date: Sat, 5 Oct 2002 18:48:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200210060148.g961mcH20240@Ag.arizona.edu> I just planted my garden, and am in the process of watering -- this is a long process -- apparently. I've planted, tomato plants, and seeded: onion, radishes, leaf lettuce, and broccoli. How often do I water? I have them in rows, and set for irrigation. From dtw@archerserve.com Sun Oct 6 16:54:38 2002 From: dtw@archerserve.com (dtw@archerserve.com) Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 09:54:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200210061654.g96GsbH01718@Ag.arizona.edu> I'm considering planting shoestring acacia by a pool. I see it recommended as a little to no litter tree but note in the archives a complaint about seed littering- what's up? Appearance wise, most of the pictures I've seen show a spindly ugly looking tree. In the only pic where it looks attractive it appears that 3 or 4 are grouped together a few feet from each other. Is this possible and recommended? What are folks' experience with this tree? I have a flood irrigated yard, if that makes any difference. Thanks for any and all comments. From watsontl@mindspring.com Sun Oct 6 21:37:10 2002 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 14:37:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200210042238.g94McJH02618@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000401c26d80$882717a0$e430b83f@oemcomputer> There is no shortage of problems tomatoes can have that would lead to abnormally small fruit. Are the plants in full sunlight most of the day? I've seen tomatoes grown in the shade produce marble-sized fruit that turned red, but never were worth eating. Nutrient shortages can do this. Too little nitrogen would lead to plants not strong enough to support full-sized fruit (although too much can lead to big, leafy plants that don't flower or set fruit). I start mine out with manure dug into the bed, with light feedings of Miracle Grow as needed during the season. Shortages of micronutrients can interfere with fruit development (shortages of sulfur and magnesium are often problems in desert soils). The addition of organic matter (compost or manure) along with products such as soil sulfur and Ironite change the soil chemistry in ways that make the lesser nutrients more readily available to plant roots. Inadequate watering could trip you up as well. So could pests or soil-born diseases (do the plants have a tendency to wilt, or are there lots of yellow leaves on the lower part of the plants?) Tell us something about how you prepared and amended the soil, how often (and how long) you water the plants, and what sort of exposure to sun these plants have, and we might be better able to give specific recommendations. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, October 04, 2002 3:38 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I`m trying to grow tomatoes, but they are only getting to 1 inch and then they get ripe before they attain any size. What can be done to get them get to full size. I`ve planted Big Boy and Early Girl. I`ve just planted some other ones in a different location. I`ve planted some Big Beef and early girl. I hope you can give me the help I need. Thank you. Bob V. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From paulacquiroz@hotmail.com Sun Oct 6 22:38:07 2002 From: paulacquiroz@hotmail.com (Paula Quiroz) Date: Sun, 06 Oct 2002 15:38:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] I need to know if this plant is poisnous to dogs Message-ID: I saw an email on snail vines...we love the way it looks in the front of our house..but we want to plant it in the back...before we do..I need to know if this plant is poisnous to dogs. My little cherub..West Highland White Terrier..so lovingly has dug up my flowers in the front...the one thing he did not get to was the snail vines....please let me know...much appriciated :) _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From eliekheder@hotmail.com Mon Oct 7 01:56:50 2002 From: eliekheder@hotmail.com (elie a. kheder) Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2002 18:56:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Artichokes Message-ID: <003e01c26da4$ccfe57c0$712094ce@dell> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_003F_01C26D6A.209F7FC0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1256" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi, need to read anything and everything to do about planting artichokes !.. if you can refer me to books or articles I would really appreciate it ! =20 In the mean time, I live in the Bay Area of San Francisco. In about last June I bought four plants of artichokes and plant them on the ground, 4 feet apart... now (October, and only 4 months old) they are huge, beautiful leaves, 4 feet across and about 4-5 ft high. What puzzles me the most, from what I read in one leaflet that I suppose to cut them to the ground around that time of the year, but they are so healthy !!!=20 =20 Also they have nothing as a core to show in the middle, only leaves like a gigantic celery or something like that ? ... unfortunately I had to support it with a stick since it seams the roots are not that deep or strong to hold the huge plant ! =20 Please let me know what to do ! =20 Thank you very very much. =20 =20 =20 Sincerely, =20 Elie / =C5=ED=E1=ED =20 _____ =20 =20 =20 ------=_NextPart_000_003F_01C26D6A.209F7FC0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="windows-1256" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Message
Hi, need to read anything and everything to = do about=20 planting artichokes !.. if you can refer me to books or articles I would = really=20 appreciate it !
 
In the mean time, I live in the Bay Area of = San=20 Francisco.  In about last June I bought four plants of artichokes = and plant=20 them on the ground, 4 feet apart... now (October, and only 4 months old) = they=20 are huge, beautiful leaves, 4 feet across and about 4-5 ft = high.  What=20 puzzles me the most, from what I read in one leaflet that = I=20 suppose to cut them to the ground around that time of the=20 year, but they are so healthy = !!! 
 
Also they have nothing as a core to = show in=20 the middle, only leaves like a gigantic celery or something like that = ? ...=20 unfortunately I had to support it with a stick since it seams the roots = are not=20 that deep or strong to hold the huge plant !
 
Please let me know what to do=20 !
 
Thank you very very = much.
 
 
Sincerely,
 
Elie=20  / =C5=ED=E1=ED
 

------=_NextPart_000_003F_01C26D6A.209F7FC0-- From s2@auroranow.org Mon Oct 7 16:17:50 2002 From: s2@auroranow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 09:17:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Vitex References: <003e01c26da4$ccfe57c0$712094ce@dell> Message-ID: <3DA1B3AE.1E3B4556@auroranow.org> Over the weekend, my husband found and fell in love with a vitex, which was covered from top to bottom with butterflies at the nursery. After looking it up in the WGB when I got home, I was pleased to find out he chose wisely for the full sun spot we want to put it in. Just trying to find out more about its growing habit and its origins (the other vitex in the WGB is called a New Zealand something or other... so are both varieties New Zealand natives? I just like to know these things). Thanks. -- Sherryl R. Stalinski, M.A. Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation - http://www.auroranow.org Helping human systems create better futures. http://www.IntegrityIncubator.com A program of Aurora Now helping new and young companies succeed Tucson Office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 ===================================================== "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller From PERFLOWERS@aol.com Mon Oct 7 17:19:48 2002 From: PERFLOWERS@aol.com (PERFLOWERS@aol.com) Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 13:19:48 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Vitex Message-ID: <165.14b9108e.2ad31c34@aol.com> I have a vitex tree that will probably be 30 years old next spring. It is on the west side of my house and has a few blooms right now, which is very unusual. The main blooming time is in the spring. I planted it about a foot from my house, which is way, way too close. I have had to keep the branches cut off on that side of the tree. It is drought tolerant as some years the only moisture my tree received was what it took when I watered other plants close by it. It will reseed some, but not enough to be bothersome. Queen's Wreath grows in my tree, so at times it looked like it had both purple and pink blossoms at the same time. I have really enjoyed my tree and the trunk is getting quite weathered, so it may only have a couple more years of life. I think it would probably grow as a big bush, but I wanted to garden underneath it, so I cut off the bottom limbs when it was only a few years old. Val From imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net Mon Oct 7 17:30:52 2002 From: imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 10:30:52 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Artichokes References: <003e01c26da4$ccfe57c0$712094ce@dell> Message-ID: <008901c26e27$9a87dbd0$7154530c@delljor9501> Most of us on this list are more familiar with low desert gardening and can't comment on requirements in the Bay area. I suggest trying some UC sites like http://vric.ucdavis.edu/veginfo/commodity/garden/crops/artichoke.pdf which recommends cutting back to below ground level to induce summer dormancy only after spring production. If that article doesn't answer your questions, try contacting the UC Cooperative Extension in your area. See http://ucce.ucdavis.edu/counties/ for a list of county offices in CA. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "elie a. kheder" Hi, need to read anything and everything to do about planting artichokes !.. if you can refer me to books or articles I would really appreciate it ! In the mean time, I live in the Bay Area of San Francisco. In about last June I bought four plants of artichokes and plant them on the ground, 4 feet apart... now (October, and only 4 months old) they are huge, beautiful leaves, 4 feet across and about 4-5 ft high. What puzzles me the most, from what I read in one leaflet that I suppose to cut them to the ground around that time of the year, but they are so healthy !!! Also they have nothing as a core to show in the middle, only leaves like a gigantic celery or something like that ? ... unfortunately I had to support it with a stick since it seams the roots are not that deep or strong to hold the huge plant ! Please let me know what to do ! From imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net Mon Oct 7 17:32:33 2002 From: imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 10:32:33 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Watering Vegetables References: <200210060148.g961mcH20240@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <008a01c26e27$9e660060$7154530c@delljor9501> ----- Original Message ----- From: > I just planted my garden, and am in the process of watering -- this is a long process -- apparently. I've planted, tomato plants, and seeded: onion, radishes, leaf lettuce, and broccoli. How often do I water? I have them in rows, and set for irrigation. Watering needs depend not only on the vegetable type but also on soil condition, type and amount of mulch, exposure to sun, exposure to wind, method of irrigation, and probably a number of other factors I haven't mentioned. If your garden is in the low desert, your tomatoes are planted a bit late to get a good yield. You may consider protecting the plants over winter and hope for a spring crop. For the recommended planting dates, see http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1005.pdf . For the others, the first problem will be seed germination. You will need to keep the seeded area moist. If the area isn't too large, a hand-held spray bottle used several times each day works pretty well. Our desert soils also tend to crust over the seeds and inhibit germination. Covering the seeds with potting soil or vermiculite instead of garden soil helps with this problem. Some gardeners cover seeds with boards to hold in the moisture until the seeds sprout. But this will not work for lettuce which requires light to germinate. Once established, the plants should be watered frequently enough to prevent drying out but not kept too wet and soggy. After the plants are established, the usual recommendation is about 1 inch per week applied in 2 or 3 waterings. But later in the fall as the weather cools and the days become shorter, you can get by with much less. Water requirements for onions are quite a bit less than for the broad-leafed plants. Later, you may want to shut off water to the onions completely so you might consider a separate system for the onions. Drip tapes work very well for watering row-planted gardens. You can save a lot of water and grow less weeds by not watering the area between the rows. The drip taps are available at many garden centers. A pressure regulator of 8 - 15 psi is required to get even water distribution. Olin From pamela@u.arizona.edu Mon Oct 7 17:51:26 2002 From: pamela@u.arizona.edu (Pamela Tremain Koch) Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 10:51:26 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] rose problem Message-ID: <001901c26e2a$3b4eb190$0f02000a@hewlett2ih5nie> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C26DEF.7C164200 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have a Rose de Rescht bush that has been in the ground for 1 1/2 = years. A little over one month ago it started to go downhill--losing = its leaves. Currently is has no leaves, although the branches are still = green so I think it is still alive. Another rose near it is also = looking sickly, while others on the same watering schedule still look = fine. Any ideas of what might be making this bush sick and how I might save = it? Thanks, Pamela ------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C26DEF.7C164200 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I have a Rose de Rescht bush that has = been in the=20 ground for 1 1/2 years.  A little over one month ago it started to = go=20 downhill--losing its leaves.  Currently is has no leaves, although = the=20 branches are still green so I think it is still alive.  Another = rose near=20 it is also looking sickly, while others on the same watering schedule = still look=20 fine.
 
Any ideas of what might be making this = bush sick=20 and how I might save it?
 
Thanks,
Pamela
------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C26DEF.7C164200-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Oct 7 19:04:54 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 19:04:54 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pittosporum, mock orange decline Message-ID: The symptoms you describe could be heart rot or decay fungi, including Ganoderma applanatum. Ganoderma produces large, fan-shaped "conks" on lower trunk; they are reddish brown above and light underneath. If you see these mushroom-loke growths on the lower trunk, try to cut one out and take it to your nearest Cooperative Extension Office for identification. Management of heart rot or decay fungi includes protecting the plant from injury, proving good cultural care to keep the plant vigorous, cutting out dead or diseased limbs following proper pruning techniques; make cuts so rainwater will drain and do not use any wound dressing. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Jazzcats@fastQ.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 5 Oct 2002 13:23:59 -0700 (MST) > >Two of my three usually healthy, 15-year old shaded mock orange pittosporum >shrubs have developed an unknown disease. The edges of the outer leaves >have suddenly turned brown and curled, there appears to be a thick, sticky, >clear fluid on some of the branches and leaves, as well as black or brown >specs on the leaves. The problem has been spreading from one plant to >another and hosing down the leaves has been ineffective. It began a few >weeks ago and I suspect a fungus but I am not sure. Any thoughts??? >Thanks very much... > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Oct 7 19:17:26 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 19:17:26 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Paulownia, dragon sapphire tree Message-ID: This might be Paulownia tomentosa, sapphire dragon tree It has received a great deal of press. For information: http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening/news/articles/17.24.html Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Jerry Powell >To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] what'sit? >Date: Fri, 04 Oct 2002 20:45:49 -0400 > >I'm looking for a tree name. Fast growing,large broad leaves similar to a >catawba tree. Seed comes in a pod that looks like a pecan. I've been told >Palonius,Pimona, etc. These things grow like crazy once they're started and >can be grown from mere fragments. What is the name I'm looking for? _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From Headnogg@aol.com Mon Oct 7 19:11:43 2002 From: Headnogg@aol.com (by way of Lucy Bradley ) Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 12:11:43 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Please help with Palo Verde Beetle Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20021007121122.01c71158@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_3093888==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Hi, I am trying to find out how to kill or interrupt the life cycle of the palo verde beetle in my back yard. Home depot recommended a pesticide, could there be an alternative? Also do you think they are the same culprit killing my lawn? Thanks so much, Erika Alvord headnogg@aol.com --=====================_3093888==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Hi,  I am trying to find out how to kill or interrupt the life cycle of the palo verde beetle in my back yard.  Home depot recommended a pesticide, could there be an alternative?  Also do you think they are the same culprit killing my lawn?
Thanks so much,
Erika Alvord
headnogg@aol.com --=====================_3093888==_.ALT-- From blakehd@qwest.net Mon Oct 7 20:11:51 2002 From: blakehd@qwest.net (blakehd@qwest.net) Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 13:11:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200210072011.g97KBpH17914@Ag.arizona.edu> I have grubs in my vegetable garden. What can I use to kill them? From rgreenwood@peoriaud.k12.az.us Mon Oct 7 22:04:55 2002 From: rgreenwood@peoriaud.k12.az.us (rgreenwood@peoriaud.k12.az.us) Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 15:04:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200210072204.g97M4tH14174@Ag.arizona.edu> Dear Gardener, I work for Peoria School District's Community Education Department. We offer community education courses in the evenings for adults in the surrounding communities. We are interested in providing a class/seminar on Arizona gardening, and would love to work with a gardener from your institution. We pay our instructors $18/hr for teaching time. The classes can be held at any of the local high schools in Peoria School District. The classes can meet for one class only, or up to eight classes. The classes can be held once or twice a week, Monday through Thursday evenings. We are currently hiring for the Spring classes which run from the last week in January through the first week in May. We have many participants attend from Surprise, Sun City, Peoria, Glendale, and Phoenix. If you're interested in participating, please contact me via email or phone and I can forward more information to the interested gardener. We have to have a minimum of 7 participants to run the course, but we've never offered a class like this, and we would like to provide it as a resource if you're interested in working with us. Thanks for your interest and for the services you provide to the community, Risa Greenwood Community Education 623-486-6100 From wyearta@student.gc.maricopa.edu Mon Oct 7 22:25:20 2002 From: wyearta@student.gc.maricopa.edu (William Yearta) Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 15:25:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] 'Curly Top' Vegetables in my Garden Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20021007152513.00ac9220@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_26460799==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed I have a serious problem with curly top in my backyard garden. It seems to affect melons, tomatoes, zucchini, and sometimes okra. Generally, I use Diaznon, which I have learned to love and trust, but it doesn't take care of the curly top. Please enlighten me with a remedy, at your earliest convenience, if possible. Thank you. William Yearta --=====================_26460799==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" I have a serious problem with curly top in my backyard garden.  It seems to affect melons, tomatoes, zucchini, and sometimes okra.  Generally, I use Diaznon, which I have learned to love and trust, but it doesn't take care of the curly top. 
 
Please enlighten me with a remedy, at your earliest convenience, if possible.
 
Thank you.
 
William Yearta
 --=====================_26460799==_.ALT-- From MarissaWalker@cox.net Mon Oct 7 22:39:26 2002 From: MarissaWalker@cox.net (Marissa) Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 15:39:26 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Root Rot in Queen Palms Message-ID: Hello! I need to know some of the visual symptoms of root/crown rot in queen palms. Can someone help me? Thanks in advance for the information. Marissa From imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net Mon Oct 7 23:20:56 2002 From: imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 16:20:56 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] 'Curly Top' Vegetables in my Garden References: <4.3.2.7.2.20021007152513.00ac9220@ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <007901c26e58$4a825cb0$6855530c@delljor9501> ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Yearta (by way of Carol Noyes )" > I have a serious problem with curly top in my backyard garden. It seems to > affect melons, tomatoes, zucchini, and sometimes okra. Generally, I use > Diaznon, which I have learned to love and trust, but it doesn't take care > of the curly top. > Please enlighten me with a remedy, at your earliest convenience, if possible. Once a plant is infected with the curly top virus, the disease translocates through the phloem tissue to the entire plant. There is no effective control. Curly top virus is spread by a beet leafhopper, which is a small 0.125-inch long grey-green insect. See photo at http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/C/I-HO-CTEN-AD.001.html Leaf hoppers are strong fliers and are very mobile. In large agricultural regions, the are some efforts to control the insect by using aerial sprays to introduce parasites into the insect eggs but for the home gardener there is no practical control. Any population of the insect that is killed using insecticides will be replaced with a new population moving in. The best defense is to keep the insect out of the garden. One of the most effective methods is to shade the plants because the insects like the warm sun and will avoid shade. Keeping the area around the garden weed free may also help. Planting resistant varieties would also help but they are pretty hard to find. See also http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/curly-tp.htm and http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/leaf-hop.htm Olin From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Oct 7 23:29:28 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 23:29:28 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] 'Curly Top' Vegetables in my Garden Message-ID: Curly-top is a viral disease (virus), but is spread by insects. Prevention and Control: Plant resistant cultivars. Remove surrounding weeds, such as thistles and plantain, that provide disease overwintering sites. Leafhoppers carry the curly-top virus, so keep these pests away by protecting plants with floating row cover. Leafhoppers can also be controlled with strong water spray or insecticidal soap spray. Remove and destroy affected plants. >From: "William Yearta" (by way of Carol >Noyes ) >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] 'Curly Top' Vegetables in my Garden >Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 15:25:20 -0700 > >I have a serious problem with curly top in my backyard garden. It seems to >affect melons, tomatoes, zucchini, and sometimes okra. Generally, I use >Diaznon, which I have learned to love and trust, but it doesn't take care >of the curly top. > >Please enlighten me with a remedy, at your earliest convenience, if >possible. > >Thank you. > >William Yearta _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From crymer@Ag.arizona.edu Mon Oct 7 23:29:46 2002 From: crymer@Ag.arizona.edu (Cathy Rymer) Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 16:29:46 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Root Rot in Queen Palms In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20021007162242.00c137f0@ag.arizona.edu> Hi Marissa, Thanks for your question. There has never been a case of bud rot reported on Queen Palms for as long as the University of Arizona Plant Pathology department has been keeping records (over 50 years). Queen palms are actually a tropical palm and are not particularly well suited to our climate and soils. The alkalinity in our soil reduces the availability of iron causing yellowing leaves. The intense summer sun sunburns the fronds. Over watering can tie up nutrients in the soil causing yellow leaves. When soils are cool, roots are not as efficient at using nutrients which causes yellowing leaves. They are sensitive to frosts which cause drying and browning of the fronds. The bending (collapse) of fronds you may see is generally caused by a lack of the nutrient, manganese. This can also cause leaves that are "accordion pleated" and stunted. Try using a complete palm food that contains Manganese. Follow package directions for the age and size of your palm. Queen palms only produce a few leaves each year so results are slow. You may not see improvement until new growth begins next year. Make sure you are watering deeply but infrequently, allowing the soil to dry a bit between applications. Roots need air as well as water to be the most effective at transporting water and nutrients. Water should penetrate two to three feet for trees and moisten an area at least as wide as the canopy. Emitters placed next to the trunk are useless. Rather, they should be placed at the drip line for best absorption by roots. It would help if we knew how your tree(s) was being watered. How often? How long? How much water is being delivered each time? How old is your tree? What have you done so far? Cathy At 03:39 PM 10/07/2002 -0700, Marissa wrote: >Hello! I need to know some of the visual symptoms of root/crown rot in >queen palms. Can someone help me? > >Thanks in advance for the information. > >Marissa > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Catherine Rymer Instructional Specialist, Sr., Urban Horticulture Certified Arborist WC-5216 University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Phoenix, AZ 85040 http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ From dorisdale@interwrx.com Mon Oct 7 23:40:31 2002 From: dorisdale@interwrx.com (dorisdale@interwrx.com) Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 16:40:31 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200210072340.g97NeVH03486@Ag.arizona.edu> I signed up to receive Roots and Shoots online, but I cannot find it. Can you send me information about Wednesday's Master Gardener update. Thank you. Doris From imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net Mon Oct 7 23:59:51 2002 From: imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 16:59:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Summer must be over Message-ID: <000201c26e5d$dde93fa0$fd52530c@delljor9501> Saw two lesser goldfinches today. In the past, the arrival of the goldfinches has signaled the end of warm weather. - Olin From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Oct 8 00:05:09 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 08 Oct 2002 00:05:09 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grubs in vegetable garden Message-ID: Some grubs live on the roots of plants and are most likely the cause of your plants dying. There are several chemicals that can be used to get rid of grubs such as Diazinon, Spectricide or Oftanol. Be sure to follow label instructions and check that the product is safe for food crops. Organic controls include milky disease spores and predatory nematodes. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: blakehd@qwest.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 13:11:51 -0700 (MST) > >I have grubs in my vegetable garden. What can I use to kill them? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From stevendrew@mindspring.com Tue Oct 8 05:06:01 2002 From: stevendrew@mindspring.com (Steven C. Drew) Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 22:06:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] shoestring acacia Message-ID: <001d01c26e88$66c4b410$e7cf56d1@Global> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001A_01C26E4D.B934AF10 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have a Shoestring Acacia by my pool and am reasonably happy with it. One of the reasons this tree is recommended for pool landscapes is that = the litter produced is large enough to deal with easily compared to say = a weeping bottle brush which I also have and regret planting so near the = pool. The pods are not the main problem- it is the blooming period! I got so = tired of flower parts everywhere that I attacked the poor tree with my = wet/dry vacuum hoping to nip the problem in the bud ,so to speak, but = those dog-gone flowers were tenacious and stuck tightly and would not = come off into the vacuum. But the blooming period is fairly short, and = not as big a deal as many other trees. Also this tree allows the = sunlight to filter through rather than cast a big shadow. Overall this is an easily grown tree that does look good in groups or as = a single silhouette. Steve Drew ------=_NextPart_000_001A_01C26E4D.B934AF10 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I have a Shoestring Acacia by my pool = and am=20 reasonably happy with it.
 
One of the reasons this tree is = recommended for=20 pool landscapes is that the litter produced is large enough to deal with = easily=20 compared to say a weeping bottle brush which I also have and regret = planting so=20 near the pool.
 
The pods are not the main problem- it = is the=20 blooming period! I got so tired of flower parts everywhere that I = attacked the=20 poor tree with my wet/dry vacuum hoping to nip the problem in the bud = ,so to=20 speak,  but those dog-gone flowers were tenacious and stuck = tightly=20 and would not come off into the vacuum. But the blooming period is = fairly short,=20 and not as big a deal as many other trees. Also this tree allows the = sunlight to=20 filter through rather than cast a big shadow.
 
Overall this is an easily grown = tree that does=20 look good in groups or as a single silhouette.
 
Steve Drew
------=_NextPart_000_001A_01C26E4D.B934AF10-- From icrisantes@hotmail.com Tue Oct 8 06:54:38 2002 From: icrisantes@hotmail.com (icrisantes@hotmail.com) Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 23:54:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200210080654.g986scH25030@Ag.arizona.edu> Does Botrytis Cinerea occurs in Arizona? if not where? Thabk You From ASUsped@aol.com Tue Oct 8 07:57:12 2002 From: ASUsped@aol.com (ASUsped@aol.com) Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 03:57:12 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Golden shower rose Message-ID: <125.17eb74dd.2ad3e9d8@aol.com> I've planted a golden shower climbing rose about 7 months ago, and I've heard that you don't add any fertilizer or do any pruning in the first year of a rose; is that true? It's getting really big with branches crossing each other. I feel like I should cut some of the branches. Mike From Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com Tue Oct 8 15:40:07 2002 From: Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com (Zelhart Alan-rpcs30) Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 08:40:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Golden shower rose Message-ID: <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B99307039D177F@az33exm25.corp.mot.com> Hi Mike, Did you plant Golden Showers from bare root for potted? I think you told me potted some time back. If you planted it bareroot, you have to wait till you have about 6" to a foot of new growth on the plant, and then you only fertilize at 1/2 strength for the first six months. If you planted it potted, you can start fertilizing at any time. I've already started my fertilization program for fall. I need to make a monthly schedule for what to do to your roses for the 12 months of the year, and place it on my website, but until then, MEVRS has excellent documentation on their website telling you what to do with your roses the 12 months out of the year. You can check it out at this link: http://www.roses4az-mevrs.org/nss-folder/twelvemonthsofrosecare/ You should find all the information there to care for your roses all year long, and it's good information and it works. You can make growing roses as hard, or as easy as you want to by what fertilizer you use. Time release fertilizers like Oscmote need applied less often. Miracle Gro needs applied every two weeks. I give mine a hodge podge of all kinds of fertilizers. During cooler months I use organic and/or water soluble fertilizers like fish emulsion and miracle grow. They and need applied once every two weeks as most water soluble fertilizers do. During the summer months I use time released fertilizers, because they are not as likely to burn rose roots as the liquid fertilizers are. Also, I don't want to be out in that heat any more than I have to fertilizing. If I use oscmote it last three months, which generally takes me to through the whole summer. I hope this helps. -- Chat with you later... ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com A professor is one who talks in someone else's sleep -----Original Message----- From: ASUsped@aol.com [mailto:ASUsped@aol.com] Sent: Tuesday, October 08, 2002 12:57 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Golden shower rose I've planted a golden shower climbing rose about 7 months ago, and I've heard that you don't add any fertilizer or do any pruning in the first year of a rose; is that true? It's getting really big with branches crossing each other. I feel like I should cut some of the branches. Mike _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From ewerner@iglide.net Tue Oct 8 16:37:52 2002 From: ewerner@iglide.net (ewerner@iglide.net) Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 09:37:52 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200210081637.g98GbqH13539@Ag.arizona.edu> What is the proper way to trim a Ficus Nitida tree. It was planted last summer and is about l4 ft. tall. From steve.sheard@motorola.com Tue Oct 8 17:20:22 2002 From: steve.sheard@motorola.com (steve.sheard@motorola.com) Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 10:20:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200210081720.g98HKMH23979@Ag.arizona.edu> The AZ State Fair has entries for: Zinnia, dahlia type Zinnia, Cactus type What do these look like so that I know which category to enter my Zinnias into? Does anyone have picture? From imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net Tue Oct 8 19:23:13 2002 From: imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 12:23:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200210081720.g98HKMH23979@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <009901c26f00$2b67c7e0$4251530c@delljor9501> We usually think of cactus types as having double flowers with pointed narrow petals. Dahlia types have double flowers with rounded petals. Most seed catalogs have excellent photos of the various types. It is all a bit confusing because there is also a "cactus type" dahlia which looks somewhat like the cactus type zinnia but not like the dahlia type zinnia which resembles the decorative type dahlia. Then there is the smaller Mexican zinnia a.k.a daisy type which has orangish centers and resembles a daisy. Most seed catalogs have good photos of the various types. There also web sites with links to photos, for example, see http://www.veseys.com/store.cfm?product=699 or http://pss.uvm.edu/pss123/zinni2.jpg Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > The AZ State Fair has entries for: > Zinnia, dahlia type > Zinnia, Cactus type > What do these look like so that I know which category to enter my Zinnias into? > Does anyone have picture? From rmford1@mindspring.com Tue Oct 8 21:24:13 2002 From: rmford1@mindspring.com (Renea Ford) Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 14:24:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lantana turning yellow-green Message-ID: <000a01c26f11$0dde6100$c4ce56d1@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C26ED6.6049C820 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable All of my New Gold lantana camera's leaves are turning from a deep green = to a yellow green. It is not starting at one end or another -- just = turning in their entirety. I cut back the water from every 3 days to = every 4 a week ago. Are they dying back since the cooler weather has = kicked in? Is this an indication of something lacking? Is this an = indication of too much water? ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C26ED6.6049C820 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
All of my New Gold lantana camera's leaves are turning from a = deep=20 green to a yellow green.  It is not starting at one end or another = -- just=20 turning in their entirety.  I cut back the water from every 3 days = to every=20 4 a week ago.  Are they dying back since the cooler weather has = kicked=20 in?  Is this an indication of something lacking?  Is this an=20 indication of too much water?
------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C26ED6.6049C820-- From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Tue Oct 8 22:35:14 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 15:35:14 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ficus tree, pruning Message-ID: <006401c26f20$d1a0ad00$5c04e043@ibmbna6040> You would be very wise to not do any pruning to your newly planted Ficus tree except to remove dead, broken, damaged or crossing branches until the tree is at least two years old. Each time you remove a leaf from a tree you are removing food manufacturing capacity. It is especially important to leave all branches on the trunk for the first two years to help the tree gain girth and strength. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on Arborculture, section on pruning which will give you some useful info at:. http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: ewerner@iglide.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Tuesday, October 08, 2002 10:43 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >What is the proper way to trim a Ficus Nitida tree. It was planted last summer and is about l4 ft. tall. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Tue Oct 8 22:51:19 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 15:51:19 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lantana turning yellow-green Message-ID: <006501c26f20$d2df95a0$5c04e043@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0051_01C26EE2.8B5A2440 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Renea, Yellow leaves are often caused by over watering. Your lantana would be adequately watered in the summer here in the low = desert by deep watering once a week. Now with the cooler weather it is = time to cut back on watering by extending the irrigation interval. An = aplication of chelated iron will usually help to restore the green = leaves. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master gardener -----Original Message----- From: Renea Ford To: Master Gardener Date: Tuesday, October 08, 2002 2:34 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lantana turning yellow-green All of my New Gold lantana camera's leaves are turning from a deep = green to a yellow green. It is not starting at one end or another -- = just turning in their entirety. I cut back the water from every 3 days = to every 4 a week ago. Are they dying back since the cooler weather has = kicked in? Is this an indication of something lacking? Is this an = indication of too much water? ------=_NextPart_000_0051_01C26EE2.8B5A2440 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Renea,
Yellow leaves are often caused by over = watering.
Your lantana would be adequately watered in the = summer here in=20 the low desert by deep watering once a week. Now with the cooler weather = it is=20 time to cut back on watering by extending the irrigation interval. An = aplication=20 of chelated iron will usually help to restore the green = leaves.
 
Good luck.
 
Rod McKusick
Master gardener
-----Original = Message-----
From:=20 Renea Ford <rmford1@mindspring.com>
To: = Master=20 Gardener <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Date:=20 Tuesday, October 08, 2002 2:34 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Lantana=20 turning yellow-green

All of my New Gold lantana camera's leaves are turning from = a deep=20 green to a yellow green.  It is not starting at one end or = another --=20 just turning in their entirety.  I cut back the water from every = 3 days=20 to every 4 a week ago.  Are they dying back since the cooler = weather has=20 kicked in?  Is this an indication of something lacking?  Is = this an=20 indication of too much water?
------=_NextPart_000_0051_01C26EE2.8B5A2440-- From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Tue Oct 8 23:31:59 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 16:31:59 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] rose problem Message-ID: <009501c26f22$e72184e0$5c04e043@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0092_01C26EE8.3983C440 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Pamela, You are experiencing the same problems that most of us that grow roses = do at this time of year, that of browning and falling leaves. The high = temperatures along with the hot winds as well as the salt that is left = in the root zones when all of the water that we use evaporates make it = difficult to keep our roses looking good this time of year here in the = low desert. Have faith, the new growth which is just starting to show = will soon have your roses looking nearly as beautiful as the first bloom = in the spring. Shading your roses is one of the steps that you can take to help bring = the roses through the summer in better condition. Other things that can = be done are to apply gypsum early in the summer and again in early = September being sure to water in well. The gypsum will help to eliminate = the salt which accumulates in the root zone. Doubling the amount of = water that you apply once a month will also help to flush away the = salts. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian -----Original Message----- From: Pamela Tremain Koch To: Arid Gardener List Date: Monday, October 07, 2002 11:00 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] rose problem I have a Rose de Rescht bush that has been in the ground for 1 1/2 = years. A little over one month ago it started to go downhill--losing = its leaves. Currently is has no leaves, although the branches are still = green so I think it is still alive. Another rose near it is also = looking sickly, while others on the same watering schedule still look = fine. Any ideas of what might be making this bush sick and how I might save = it? Thanks, Pamela ------=_NextPart_000_0092_01C26EE8.3983C440 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Pamela,
You are experiencing the same problems that most of = us that=20 grow roses do at this time of year, that of browning  and falling = leaves.=20 The high temperatures along with the hot winds as well as the salt that = is left=20 in the root zones when all of the water that we use evaporates make it = difficult=20 to keep our roses looking good  this time of year  here in the = low=20 desert. Have faith, the new growth which is just starting to show will = soon have=20 your roses looking nearly as beautiful as the first bloom in the=20 spring.
Shading your roses is one of the steps that you can = take to=20 help bring the roses through the summer in better condition. Other = things that=20 can be done are to apply gypsum early in the summer and again in early = September=20 being sure to water in well. The gypsum will help to eliminate the salt = which=20 accumulates in the root zone. Doubling the amount of water that you = apply once=20 a month will also help to flush away the salts.
 
 
Good luck.
 
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Consulting = Rosarian
-----Original = Message-----
From:=20 Pamela Tremain Koch <pamela@u.arizona.edu>
T= o:=20 Arid Gardener List <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= >
Date:=20 Monday, October 07, 2002 11:00 AM
Subject: = [Arid_gardener] rose=20 problem

I have a Rose de Rescht bush that has = been in the=20 ground for 1 1/2 years.  A little over one month ago it started = to go=20 downhill--losing its leaves.  Currently is has no leaves, = although the=20 branches are still green so I think it is still alive.  Another = rose near=20 it is also looking sickly, while others on the same watering schedule = still=20 look fine.
 
Any ideas of what might be making = this bush sick=20 and how I might save it?
 
Thanks,
Pamela
------=_NextPart_000_0092_01C26EE8.3983C440-- From bradleyl@Ag.arizona.edu Wed Oct 9 00:00:55 2002 From: bradleyl@Ag.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Tue, 08 Oct 2002 17:00:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] UA College of Agriculture Electronic Newsletter Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20021008165718.028052f8@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_28087718==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed * Signing up for the University of Arizona College of Agriculture and Life Sciences (CALS) electronic newsletter: We are about to launch a new companion to Arizona Land & People called CALS NewsLine. This is based on the CALS Weekly Bulletin, but will be sent out once a month. More importantly it is focused on an external audience. A sample issue can be found at http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/web-contacts/0438.html. As with the Weekly Bulletin, the articles will be very brief with a link to more material online. To subscribe to NewsLine, fill out the form at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/newsline/. For further information contact Robert Casler, Coordinator of Publications and Web, ECAT . ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens --=====================_28087718==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
* Signing up for the University of Arizona College of Agriculture and Life Sciences (CALS) electronic newsletter: 

We are about to launch a new companion to Arizona Land & People called CALS NewsLine. This is based on the CALS Weekly Bulletin, but will be sent out once a month. More importantly it is focused on an external audience. A sample issue can be found at http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/web-contacts/0438.html.   As with the Weekly Bulletin, the articles will be very brief with a link to more material online.

To subscribe to NewsLine, fill out the form at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/newsline/.  For further information contact Robert Casler, Coordinator of Publications and Web, ECAT <rcasler@ag.arizona.edu>.


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ  85040-8807

Phone:  (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax:  (602) 470-8092
email:  BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/
http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens

 --=====================_28087718==_.ALT-- From BeverlyFz2@aol.com Wed Oct 9 00:52:57 2002 From: BeverlyFz2@aol.com (BeverlyFz2@aol.com) Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 20:52:57 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lantana turning yellow-green Message-ID: Two big Javalinas had a fight on my back porch over my bird feeder which they tore out of a tree. They broke off my entire lantana bush and destroyed the feeder. They are so gross. B From Jonathan Kandell"