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Hello,
I got this email from a co-worker who said it would be a good resource for
gardening tips I have two fig trees in my back yard. One is a 'white' fig
& the other is a 'purple' fig tree, & both are covered well with bird
netting so no birds can get to the figs. I planted both of them in late
January of this year. The 'white' fig tree is over 4 feet tall, & the
purple fig tree is around 3 feet tall. During this summer, I watered them
for 1 1/2 hours with the drip that is circular with eight small holes in it.
Supposedly it can put out up to 10 gallons per hour, but I know it doesn't
since the water pressure is not too great. Also, on real hot days this
summer, I'd spray down the leaves at dusk, & sometimes give it some extra
water. Every couple of weeks I water them with miracle grow. Here are the
questions I have:
1. The smaller tree (purple figs) don't bring too many figs to maturity just
yet, but the few that managed to start turning purple, had a hole in the
skin chewed out by some pest the day after turning purple. I see on both
trees small black ants (I think their ants ?), white flies (those small
white bugs flying around that look like little specs of dust), a small fly
(with narrow body & metallic colors, usually one the leaves), & recently,
what look like a type of flying ant with an elongated skinny body. When I
see the fig that's been eaten, I don't see any bugs around. Also, a lot of
the first ones to come out had the bottom of the fig real open to the point
that the inside was pushing out on some of them. What can I put on and/or
around the tree to keep pests away that is organic & wont affect the figs or
the tree. I used bug-b-gone in the early stages of the trees development
when the figs were still smaller than a grape. Also, what can I do to
either prevent the figs from opening up on the bottom, or 'cover' the
bottoms so as to keep them from becoming too dry.
2. The larger, white fig tree has brought only about 10 figs to maturity so
far, but nothing is eating them yet. I recently counted & found that I had
over 125 figs on the tree. I did some reading about the importance of
thinning a tree when it is still new to reduce the number of fruits. I read
that sometimes a tree will bring more fruit than it can bring to maturity,
so thinning is essential to getting a good crop. So I thinned this tree out
recently & removed about 50 figs & some leaves.
3. Is the reason the figs are slow to mature because it's not the right
time to harvest yet, or is there something I need to add to the soil to
enrich it or improve the ph ?
I'd really appreciate any help you can give. These fig trees were given to
me when they were just about 10 inches tall & the thickness of a pencil.
They are originally from Pennsylvania, where the climate & humidity is much
different than here.
Thanks,
Paul
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Hello,
I got this=20
email from a co-worker who said it would be a good resource for =
gardening=20
tips I have two fig trees in my back yard. One is a 'white' =
fig=20
& the other is a 'purple' fig tree, & both are covered well with =
bird=20
netting so no birds can get to the figs. I planted both of them in =
late=20
January of this year. The 'white' fig tree is over 4 feet tall, =
& the=20
purple fig tree is around 3 feet tall. During this summer, I =
watered them=20
for 1 1/2 hours with the drip that is circular with eight small holes in =
it. Supposedly it can put out up to 10 gallons per hour, but =
I know=20
it doesn't since the water pressure is not too great. Also, on =
real hot=20
days this summer, I'd spray down the leaves at dusk, & sometimes =
give it=20
some extra water. Every couple of weeks I water them with miracle=20
grow. Here are the questions I have:
1. The smaller=20
tree (purple figs) don't bring too many figs to maturity just yet, but =
the few=20
that managed to start turning purple, had a hole in the skin chewed out =
by some=20
pest the day after turning purple. I see on both trees small black =
ants (I=20
think their ants ?), white flies (those small white bugs flying around =
that look=20
like little specs of dust), a small fly (with narrow body & metallic =
colors,=20
usually one the leaves), & recently, what look like a type of flying =
ant=20
with an elongated skinny body. When I see the fig that's been =
eaten, I=20
don't see any bugs around. Also, a lot of the first ones to come =
out had=20
the bottom of the fig real open to the point that the inside was pushing =
out on=20
some of them. What can I put on and/or around the tree to keep =
pests away=20
that is organic & wont affect the figs or the tree. I used =
bug-b-gone=20
in the early stages of the trees development when the figs were still =
smaller=20
than a grape. Also, what can I do to either prevent the figs from =
opening=20
up on the bottom, or 'cover' the bottoms so as to keep them from =
becoming too=20
dry.
2. The larger,=20
white fig tree has brought only about 10 figs to maturity so far, but =
nothing is=20
eating them yet. I recently counted & found that I had over =
125 figs=20
on the tree. I did some reading about the importance of thinning a =
tree=20
when it is still new to reduce the number of fruits. I read that =
sometimes=20
a tree will bring more fruit than it can bring to maturity, so thinning =
is=20
essential to getting a good crop. So I thinned this tree out =
recently=20
& removed about 50 figs & some leaves.
3. Is=20
the reason the figs are slow to mature because it's not the right time =
to=20
harvest yet, or is there something I need to add to the soil to enrich =
it or=20
improve the ph ?
I'd really=20
appreciate any help you can give. These fig trees were given to me =
when=20
they were just about 10 inches tall & the thickness of a =
pencil. They=20
are originally from Pennsylvania, where the climate & humidity is =
much=20
different than here.
Thanks,
Paul
------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C259F0.CFF2E3A0--
From jerry@intrec.com Thu Sep 12 21:22:28 2002
From: jerry@intrec.com (Jerry Cline)
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 14:22:28 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] half circles on the leaves of my rose bush!
In-Reply-To:
References:
Message-ID:
At 17:15 -0400 09/04/2002, ASUsped@aol.com wrote:
> Thank you very much for all the info about the leafcutter bee and I do
> feel much better now.
Good, I'm glad we've given the bee a break! :) Did you know that 30%
of what we eat and wear is dependent on bees? Chicken and dairy feed,
nuts, fruits, all cucurbits (cucumber-squash-melons). The next time
you hear your TV announce making theatrical outrageous comments about
killer bees, just keep the thought that we are dependant on bees and
not all bees are killer bees.
> Since you are a master Gardner; do u have any good tips for roses? I
> have been adding coffee grounds on the soil and it seems like it is
> helping a lot, but I am wondering other ways to help my roses ....
I'm not a rose grower - sorry. :) However, although coffee grounds
are high in tannin and I've read they are probably not good for
plants, but they are organic, they are also acidic, and as a mulch,
they help to hold moisture. Thos are all pluses we need.
My practical experience has shown that our coffee and tea grounds
help to create a wonderful compost. When young in Salt Lake City, we
used to grow our fishing bait nightcrawler (worms) in coffee grounds
and peat moss and they thrived. I've convinced myself that coffee is
good for plants - other's mileages may vary :)
--
Jerry Cline
Master Gardener - (First graduate group)
The best fertilizer is in the gardener's own footsteps. -Chinese proverb
From jerry@intrec.com Thu Sep 12 18:36:04 2002
From: jerry@intrec.com (Jerry Cline)
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 11:36:04 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [AG] Mushrooms
In-Reply-To: <3D7EB95A.FE7C4A66@worldnet.att.net>
References:
<3D7EB95A.FE7C4A66@worldnet.att.net>
Message-ID:
At 20:32 -0700 09/10/2002, George D wrote:
> How can you tell if these are safe or poisonous? I have a 3 year
old granddaughter and would not
> want her to try them if they are dangerious to her health.
I have no knowledge of which mushrooms are edible. Since I have zero
expertise, and because some are reportedly so dangerously toxic, I
have to assume that all mushrooms not purchased from known safe
sources are toxic. Sorry =:-|
I asked about the mushrooms growing outwardly from a center area
forming a rough circle, because there is a type of fungi (called
fairy ring mushrooms) that grows in this way and as I remember, the
co-op has a guide on handling that problem.
--
Jerry Cline
Master Gardener - (First graduate group)
The best fertilizer is in the gardener's own footsteps. -Chinese proverb
From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Thu Sep 12 21:26:27 2002
From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net)
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 14:26:27 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Dying Citrus Trees
Message-ID: <001801c25aa3$0f2be820$5d2c0a3f@ibmbna6040>
Wayne,
Even though you said that your citrus trees are getting plenty of water the
symptoms you have described indicate otherwise. Why not check out the
following site which will tell you how much water you should be applying:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
-----Original Message-----
From: phxws@qwest.net
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Date: Thursday, September 12, 2002 8:49 AM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>I have a grapefruit, lemon, and an orange tree in my back yard. The orange
tree appears to be dying. It's leaves are falling off and branches are
dying and are very brittle. They are getting plenty of water and I
fertilize 4 times a year. All the trees are 10-12 yesrs old. The
grapefruit is good and healthy; the lemon tree also looks sick, but not as
bad as the orange tree. What can I do to help the orange and lemon trees.
Thank you for your time. Wayne
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>
From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Thu Sep 12 21:36:16 2002
From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net)
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 14:36:16 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ficus nitida with bark cracks
Message-ID: <002b01c25aa4$6dc41aa0$5d2c0a3f@ibmbna6040>
If it is the tree bark that is splitting and the trunk is exposed to the sun
especially the afternoon sun then the problem is sunburn. You can prevent
further damage by either painting the trunk white or wrapping it with a wrap
such as burlap.
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener-----Original Message-----
From: a.anthonyandsons@cox.net
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Date: Thursday, September 12, 2002 8:52 AM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>I have a ficus (natida)tree that is about 6 years old. the trunk is
splitting in several areas. what is causing this and what can i do prevent
the tree from dieing?
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>
From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Thu Sep 12 21:42:35 2002
From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net)
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 14:42:35 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pine tree dying
Message-ID: <003001c25aa5$4f7eaa00$5d2c0a3f@ibmbna6040>
Inadequate irrigation can cause trees to dye. Check out these sites for info
on proper irrigation:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html
http://www.amwua.org/xscp-wateringschedules.htm
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
-----Original Message-----
From: a.anthonyandsons@cox.net
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Date: Thursday, September 12, 2002 8:49 AM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>I have and elderica tree that is 6 years old. for the last two years the
tree has been getting thinner and the branches are drooping. i'm losing more
and more needles. what is causing this? what can i do to prevent the tree
from dieing?
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>
From kellysaxer@hotmail.com Thu Sep 12 23:49:50 2002
From: kellysaxer@hotmail.com (kellysaxer@hotmail.com)
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 16:49:50 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200209122349.g8CNnox25922@Ag.arizona.edu>
Hi:
I have a gardening question that I'm hoping you can help me with
I live in the north Scottsdale part of the valley, and have a variety of herbs planted in raised beds in my backyard. About a month ago, I noticed that a lot of the leaves of my herb plants (especially the basil, oregano and mint) have holes in them. I suspect the culprit is caterpillars (I've even picked a few caterpillars off the soil surrounding the plants). How can I get rid of these caterpillars without using synthetic pesticides? I've tried spraying the plants with a soapy water mixture with no real success. I've also heard that lacewings can be released into the garden as a means of erradicating caterpillars (although I have not tried this). Do you have any suggessions...I'm getting desperate. Also, I assume the caterpillar presence in my garden is seasonal...any idea when the caterpillars are likely to morph into moths and go away?
I would appreciate any help you could provide.
Thanks,
Kelly Saxer
From kumeda@Ag.arizona.edu Thu Sep 12 20:50:50 2002
From: kumeda@Ag.arizona.edu (Kai Umeda)
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 13:50:50 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] FYI on new National Organic Program Laws
Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020912135013.023e3f90@ag.arizona.edu>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Keith S. Mayberry [mailto:ksmayberry@ucdavis.edu]
>Sent: Friday, September 06, 2002 3:41 PM
>To: veghelp@ucdavis.edu
>Subject: FYI on new National Organic Program Laws
>
>To all Veghelpers interested in Organic Production.....
>
>The National Organic Program administered by the USDA will go into effect
>at the end of October 2002. The following website discusses proposed
>impacts and potential changes it may have in current regulations.
>
>http://www.ams.usda.gov/nop/ general information
>
>Be sure to read through the Frequently Asked Questions listed below
>http://www.ams.usda.gov/nop/nop2000/nop2/FAQ.htm#Subpart%20B%20-%20Applicability
>
>Keith
>Keith S. Mayberry
>Acting County Director
>& Vegetable Crops Advisor
>1050 E. Holton Rd.
>Holtville CA 92250
>760-352-9474 office
>760-996-1386 cell phone
Kai Umeda
Area Extension Agent, Vegetable Crops
University of Arizona Cooperative Extension, Maricopa County
4341 E. Broadway Road
Phoenix, AZ 85040
602-470-8086 x-314
fax 602-470-8092
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/vegcrops
From dhgouge@Ag.arizona.edu Thu Sep 12 19:29:31 2002
From: dhgouge@Ag.arizona.edu (Dawn H. Gouge)
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2002 12:29:31 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bug repellents
Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020912122829.02426978@ag.arizona.edu>
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Insect Repellents Dawn H. Gouge, September 2002
Mosquitoes, biting flies, and ticks can be annoying and sometimes pose a=20
serious risk to public health. In certain areas of the United States,=20
mosquitoes can transmit diseases like equine and St. Louis=20
encephalitis. More recently transmission of West Nile Virus has become a=20
major concern. Biting flies can inflict a painful bite that can persist=20
for days, swell, and become infected. Ticks can transmit serious diseases=
=20
like Lyme disease and Rocky Mountain spotted fever. When properly used,=20
arthropod (insects, ticks, mites, etc.) repellents can discourage biting=20
arthropods from landing on treated skin or clothing.
Choosing Insect Repellents
Insect repellents are available in various forms and=20
concentrations. Aerosol and pump-spray products are intended for skin=20
applications as well as for treating clothing. Liquid, cream, lotion,=20
spray, and stick products enable direct skin application. Products with a=
=20
low concentration of active ingredient may be appropriate for situations=20
where exposure to insects is minimal. Higher concentration of active=20
ingredient may be useful in highly infested areas or with insect species=20
which are more difficult to repel. Where appropriate, consider=20
non-chemical ways to deter biting insects - screens, netting, long sleeves,=
=20
and long pants.
Using Insect Repellents Safely
The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) recommends the following=20
precautions when using insect repellents:
=B7 Apply repellents only to exposed skin and/or clothing (as directed=
=20
on the product label). Do not use under clothing.
=B7 Never use repellents over cuts, wounds, or irritated skin.
=B7 Do not apply to eyes and mouth, and apply sparingly around=20
ears. When using sprays do not spray directly onto face; spray on hands=20
first and then apply to face.
=B7 Do not allow children to handle the products, and do not apply to=
=20
children's hands. When using on children, apply to your own hands and then=
=20
put it on the child.
=B7 Do not spray in enclosed areas. Avoid breathing a repellent=
spray,=20
and do not use it near food.
=B7 Use just enough repellent to cover exposed skin and/or=20
clothing. Heavy application and saturation is generally unnecessary for=20
effectiveness; if biting insects do not respond to a thin film of=20
repellent, then apply a bit more.
=B7 After returning indoors, wash treated skin with soap and water or=
=20
bathe. This is particularly important when repellents are used repeatedly=
=20
in a day or on consecutive days. Also, wash treated clothing before=20
wearing it again. If you suspect that you or your child are reacting to an=
=20
insect repellent, discontinue use, wash treated skin, and then call your=20
local poison control center if symptoms persist. If/when you go to a=20
doctor, take the repellent with you. Reactions to repellents usually take=
=20
the form of burning or irritated skin where the repellent has been applied.
=B7 Get specific medical information about the active ingredients in=
=20
repellents and other pesticides by calling the National Pesticide=20
Information Center (NPIC) at 1-800-858-7378. NPIC operates from 6:30 a.m.=
=20
to 4:30 p.m. (Pacific Time),9:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. (Eastern Time), 7 days a=
=20
week. The NPIC Web site is: http://npic.orst.edu/
Important Information on Using Repellents
EPA recommends the following precautions when using an insect repellent:
=B7 Check the container to ensure that the product bears an=20
EPA-approved label and registration number. Never use a product that has=20
not been approved for use by EPA!
=B7 Read the entire label before using a pesticide. Even if you have=
=20
used it before, read the label again - don't trust your memory.
=B7 Follow use directions carefully, use only the amount directed, at=
=20
the time and under the conditions specified, and for the purpose=20
listed. For example, if you need a tick repellent, make sure that the=20
product label lists this use. If ticks are not listed, the product may not=
=20
be formulated for that use.
=B7 Store repellants away from children's reach, in a locked utility=
=20
cabinet.
Types of Repellants
=B7 DEET (chemical name, N,N-diethyl-meta-toluamide) is the active=20
ingredient in many insect repellent products. DEET's most significant=20
benefit is its ability to repel potentially disease-carrying insects and=20
ticks. Products containing DEET currently are available to the public in a=
=20
variety of liquids, lotions, sprays, and impregnated materials (e.g., wrist=
=20
bands). Formulations registered for direct application to human skin=20
contain from 4 to 100% DEET. DEET is designed for direct application to=20
human skin to repel insects, rather than kill them. After it was developed=
=20
by the U.S. Army in 1946, DEET was registered for use by the general public=
=20
in 1957. Approximately 230 products containing DEET are currently=20
registered with EPA by about 70 different companies. Skin sensitivity to=20
DEET can develop after repeated use. EPA is no longer allowing child=20
safety claims on product labels. These claims currently appear on certain=
=20
products containing a DEET concentration of 15% or less. The scientific=20
data on DEET do not support product label claims of child safety based on=20
the percentage of active ingredient. Use lower levels (<6%) of DEET on=20
children. Do not use DEET on infants or if you are pregnant.
o 30% DEET will provide 6.5 hours of protection;
o 15% DEET will provide 5 hours of protection;
o l0% DEET will provide approximately 3 hours of protection, and
o 5% DEET will provide approximately 2 hours of protection.
Off Deep Woods (SC Johnson), 23.8% DEET 301.5 minutes of protection time
Off Skintastic for Kids (SC Johnson), 4.75% DEET 88.4 minutes of=20
protection time
IR3535-based repellent
A chemical repellent that has been used in Europe for over 20 years, IR3535=
=20
was approved for use in the United States in 1999.
Skin So Soft Bug Guard (Avon) IR3535 22.9 minutes protection time
=B7 Botanicals
Citronella or Lavender Oil
=A7 It is recommended that personal insect repellents such as=20
citronella and oil of lavender not be used on children under 2 years of age.
=A7 The citronella oil repellents registered protect people against=20
mosquito bites for less than one hour. The registered lavender oil=20
repellent protects for half an hour or less.
=A7 Based on animal studies, citronella-based products appear to be=20
potential dermal sensitizers. Therefore, allergic reactions may occur in=20
some individuals
=A7 The citronella-based repellents tested protected for 20 minutes or=
=20
less. Slow release products do not provide significant added benefit.
Eucalyptus oil
Products containing eucalyptus oil were the most effective herbal=20
repellents tested!!
Repel Lemon Eucalyptus Insect Repellent (WPC Brands) 120.1 minutes=20
protection time Fite Bite Plant-Based Insect Repellent (Travel=20
Medicine) 120.1 minutes protection time
Soybean Oil
Bite Blocker for Kids (HOMS) soybean oil 94.6 minutes protection time
Mineral Oil
Skin-So-Soft Bath Oil (Avon) - 9.6 minutes of protection
Permethrin
As a treatment for clothing. Use by itself or with skin applied=20
repellents. Permethrin is a contact insecticide. That is, it kills ticks=
=20
or other insects when it comes in contact with them. It is used on=20
clothing and materials only. It uses the same active ingredient used in=20
hair shampoos for head lice. Skin contact should be avoided and=20
deactivates Permethrin within fifteen minutes. As a clothing, tent or=20
sleeping bag application, Permethrin is very effective at keeping ticks=20
from attaching to you and at reducing the mosquito bites. Permethrin is an=
=20
effective repellent against mosquitoes and flies and can be used in=20
conjunction with a skin based repellent. Spray applications of Permethrin=
=20
can remain effective up to 14 days of exposure to light or oxygen, or=20
through two aggressive washings. By storing the treated clothing in black=
=20
plastic bags between uses the fourteen days of protection can be extended=20
considerably. If necessary a heavier application can remain effective even=
=20
longer.
Reference
Fradin MF, Day JF. Comparative efficacy of insect repellents against=20
mosquito bites. New England Journal of Medicine. 2002;4;347(1):13-8.
--=====================_178015==_.ALT
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Insect
Repellents &n=
bsp; Dawn
H. Gouge, September 2002
Mosquitoes, biting flies, and ticks can be annoying and sometimes
pose a serious risk to public health. In certain areas of the
United States, mosquitoes can transmit diseases like equine and St. Louis
encephalitis. More recently transmission of West Nile Virus has
become a major concern. Biting flies can inflict a painful bite
that can persist for days, swell, and become infected. Ticks can
transmit serious diseases like Lyme disease and Rocky Mountain spotted
fever. When properly used, arthropod (insects, ticks, mites, etc.)
repellents can discourage biting arthropods from landing on treated skin
or clothing.
Choosing Insect Repellents
Insect repellents are available in various forms and
concentrations. Aerosol and pump-spray products are intended for
skin applications as well as for treating clothing. Liquid, cream,
lotion, spray, and stick products enable direct skin application.
Products with a low concentration of active ingredient may be appropriate
for situations where exposure to insects is minimal. Higher
concentration of active ingredient may be useful in highly infested areas
or with insect species which are more difficult to repel. Where
appropriate, consider non-chemical ways to deter biting insects -
screens, netting, long sleeves, and long pants.
Using Insect Repellents Safely
The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) recommends the following
precautions when using insect repellents:
- =B7
Apply
repellents only to exposed skin and/or clothing (as directed on the
product label). Do not use under clothing.
- =B7
Never
use repellents over cuts, wounds, or irritated skin.=20
=B7 &nb=
sp;Do
not apply to eyes and mouth, and apply sparingly around ears. When
using sprays do not spray directly onto face; spray on hands first and
then apply to face.
=B7 Do
not allow children to handle the products, and do not apply to children's
hands. When using on children, apply to your own hands and then put
it on the child.
=B7 Do
not spray in enclosed areas. Avoid breathing a repellent spray, and
do not use it near food.
=B7 Use
just enough repellent to cover exposed skin and/or clothing. Heavy
application and saturation is generally unnecessary for effectiveness; if
biting insects do not respond to a thin film of repellent, then apply a
bit more.
=B7 After
returning indoors, wash treated skin with soap and water or bathe.
This is particularly important when repellents are used repeatedly in a
day or on consecutive days. Also, wash treated clothing before
wearing it again. If you suspect that you or your child are
reacting to an insect repellent, discontinue use, wash treated skin, and
then call your local poison control center if symptoms persist.
If/when you go to a doctor, take the repellent with you. Reactions
to repellents usually take the form of burning or irritated skin where
the repellent has been applied.
=B7 Get
specific medical information about the active ingredients in repellents
and other pesticides by calling the National Pesticide Information Center
(NPIC) at 1-800-858-7378. NPIC operates from 6:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.
(Pacific Time),9:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. (Eastern Time), 7 days a
week. The NPIC Web site is:
http://npic.orst.edu/
Important Information on Using Repellents
EPA recommends the following precautions when using an insect repellent:
- =B7
Check=
the container to ensure that the product bears an EPA-approved label and=
registration number. Never use a product that has not been approved=
for use by EPA!
- =B7
Read=
the entire label before using a pesticide. Even if you have used it=
before, read the label again - don't trust your memory.=20
=B7