From venkeraz@msn.com Mon Sep 2 23:40:25 2002 From: venkeraz@msn.com (venkeraz@msn.com) Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 16:40:25 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200209022340.g82NePw09498@Ag.arizona.edu> Bermuda grass has invaded the flowers and shrubs planted throughout my yard. Is there a herbicide that will kill bermuda grass without killing the flowers and shrubs? From hbfrau@cybertrails.com Mon Sep 2 17:40:10 2002 From: hbfrau@cybertrails.com (hbfrau@cybertrails.com) Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 10:40:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200209021740.g82HeAw05939@Ag.arizona.edu> How much water daily does a mature pine tree require? I was in the White Mountains recently at a seminar and was told that they need 100 gallons daily. Is this correct? From laurielwilliams@yahoo.com Mon Sep 2 02:45:46 2002 From: laurielwilliams@yahoo.com (laurielwilliams@yahoo.com) Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 19:45:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200209020245.g822jkw16627@Ag.arizona.edu> Help!! I need to dig up my flower bed to redo the sprinkler system and I have lots of bulbs and rizomes planted I have never had to dig them up before. What is the best way to store them and when can I plant them again? I also have a rose tree that was grown from a cutting from the rose tree in tombstone. I has not benn doing well the last couple of seasons and now appears to be dying. When would be the best time to trim out the dead branches? How far back should I trim the living branches? I live up against North Mountain in the Sunnyslope area. The area were the flower bed and rose tree are gets mostly morning sun it is shady in the afternoon. Thanks for your help, Laurie Williams From turleyrink@cox.net Tue Sep 3 09:08:18 2002 From: turleyrink@cox.net (turleyrink@cox.net) Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 02:08:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200209030908.g8398Iw11259@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a side yard that is partly shaded by walls at certain times of the day. I'd like to use this space for a vegetable garden, planting fall and winter crops, then summer crops. How many hours of sun do I need to grow vegetable? From apacker@interbaun.com Tue Sep 3 01:14:54 2002 From: apacker@interbaun.com (apacker@interbaun.com) Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 18:14:54 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200209030114.g831Esw17683@Ag.arizona.edu> In dryland gardening,to reduce weeds, (assuming one will not use a herbicide), I have read that planting densely, and NOT planting in rows, will make it harder for weeds to grow. Is this true, and have there been studues to corroborate this? From pikikoko@msn.com Sun Sep 1 05:20:25 2002 From: pikikoko@msn.com (Mike ENRIQUEZ) Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 22:20:25 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] "Making Wild Flowers Sing, 9/14/02 Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020831221945.00b0a9e8@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_1201407==_.REL Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="=====================_1201407==_.ALT" --=====================_1201407==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Dear Listmenbers and Friends, On September 14, I will be presenting a Seminar at the Master Gardeners Office. It's about Wild Flowers but maybe it should be titled "Making Wild Flowers Sing". Please tell your friends about it, and if you can please plan to attend, I would enjoy meeting and seeing some old friends. Admission is $15.00 and it's for a great cause the "Master Gardener Program." I am a registered Architect so there will be lots on environmental design. I am also a Watercolorist who is heavy on the color brush, so there will much to talk when it comes to the use of color with flowers. We will talk about site planning and how to plan your property so you ge the most benefit from your flowers. I plan to give out some Wild Flower Seeds to get people started. I also plan to raffle a Desert Landscaping CD with the proceeds going to the MG Program. The presentation should be very beneficial to anyone in the planning stages or if they are planning to redo and refresh their landscapes. It's ok to bring a sketch of your property to discuss should you need some help with your project. I will be showing some existing homes and evaluating them from for over all concept. Attendees will see flower slides collected on my trips: they will have to guess the county of origin. Please feel free to recommend changes to my presention, if you feel other areas should be covered. Please do it soon. It will not be a presentaion about "Bot." names and telling people to plant seeds 1/16th of an inch below grade. I feel the MG Program has very good printed information that covers that area. Those who attend will have a fun time. Please tell a friend. Thanks. Mike Enriquez MG aka "Daisy Man" MiketheComputerGeek Made to Order Mobile Laptops,Servers & Workstations and Technical Support. Cel Phone 602-803-05591230a8.jpg ---------- MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: Click Here _______________________________________________ Maricopa-mg mailing list Maricopa-mg@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/maricopa-mg --=====================_1201407==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Dear Listmenbers and Friends,
On September 14, I will be presenting a Seminar at the Master Gardeners Office. It's about Wild Flowers but maybe it should be titled "Making Wild Flowers Sing". Please tell your friends about it, and if you can please plan to attend, I would enjoy meeting and seeing some old friends. Admission is $15.00 and it's for a great cause the "Master Gardener Program."
I am a registered Architect so there will be lots on environmental design. I am also a Watercolorist who is heavy on the color brush, so there will much to talk when it comes to the use of color with flowers. We will talk about site planning and how to plan your property so you ge the most benefit from your flowers. I plan to give out some Wild Flower Seeds to get people started. I also plan to raffle a Desert Landscaping CD with the proceeds going to the MG Program. The presentation should be very beneficial to anyone in the planning stages or if they are planning to redo and refresh their landscapes.
It's ok to bring a sketch of your property to discuss should you need some help with your project. I will be showing some existing homes and evaluating them from  for over all concept.
Attendees will see flower slides collected on my trips: they will have to guess the county of origin. Please feel free to recommend changes to my presention, if you feel other areas should be covered. Please do it soon.
It will not be a presentaion about "Bot." names and telling people to plant seeds 1/16th of an inch below grade. I feel the MG Program has very good printed information that covers that area. Those who attend will have a fun time. Please tell a friend.
Thanks.
Mike Enriquez  MG aka "Daisy Man"


MiketheComputerGeek
Made to Order Mobile Laptops,Servers & Workstations and Technical Support.
Cel Phone 602-803-05591230a8.jpg

MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: Click Here
_______________________________________________ Maricopa-mg mailing list Maricopa-mg@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/maricopa-mg --=====================_1201407==_.ALT-- --=====================_1201407==_.REL Content-Type: image/jpeg; name="1230a8.jpg"; x-mac-type="4A504547"; x-mac-creator="4A565752" Content-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020831221945.00b0a9e8@ag.arizona.edu.0> Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 Content-Disposition: inline; filename="1230a8.jpg" /9j/4AAQSkZJRgABAQAAAQABAAD/2wBDAAEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEB AQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQH/2wBDAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEB AQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQH/wAARCAAMAAwDASIA AhEBAxEB/8QAHwAAAQUBAQEBAQEAAAAAAAAAAAECAwQFBgcICQoL/8QAtRAAAgEDAwIEAwUFBAQA AAF9AQIDAAQRBRIhMUEGE1FhByJxFDKBkaEII0KxwRVS0fAkM2JyggkKFhcYGRolJicoKSo0NTY3 ODk6Q0RFRkdISUpTVFVWV1hZWmNkZWZnaGlqc3R1dnd4eXqDhIWGh4iJipKTlJWWl5iZmqKjpKWm p6ipqrKztLW2t7i5usLDxMXGx8jJytLT1NXW19jZ2uHi4+Tl5ufo6erx8vP09fb3+Pn6/8QAHwEA AwEBAQEBAQEBAQAAAAAAAAECAwQFBgcICQoL/8QAtREAAgECBAQDBAcFBAQAAQJ3AAECAxEEBSEx BhJBUQdhcRMiMoEIFEKRobHBCSMzUvAVYnLRChYkNOEl8RcYGRomJygpKjU2Nzg5OkNERUZHSElK U1RVVldYWVpjZGVmZ2hpanN0dXZ3eHl6goOEhYaHiImKkpOUlZaXmJmaoqOkpaanqKmqsrO0tba3 uLm6wsPExcbHyMnK0tPU1dbX2Nna4uPk5ebn6Onq8vP09fb3+Pn6/9oADAMBAAIRAxEAPwD8hv8A gjf/AMEpNJ/bD8C/tMfsr/HTVP2J7HxB+07+zXZ/GT9ib4gaX+2N+zZ4i/ae8B/tZfDDTbnxL8Nf Alz8PPhV8WPiX8avCHwn8Z/D3xp8RdU/au+GfjD4A61q1ponw50fU7m08E/E34beFb2z/Ab9pf8A ZC/ac/Y5+KerfBb9pz4IfET4NfEjSft866B4y8O3tlFr2jWHiPXvCY8XeDNaiSfQfHfgPVNe8Ma/ ZeHfH3g3U9c8GeJ10u6u/D2uanZILg/XHhj/AIKPftC+JP2UD+y78ULv/henhjw7cPpfwq8T/Hf4 m/tIfFmT4GeG4PhzD8LNM8P/AAg+CXjD46aj+yJ4bk8L/DzVfGHhj4e+NdR/Zt1z4ofCseNtW8Qf C/x34N8XeHvh34h8E8D/AMFAP+ClX7U//BRr9oLUfj3+1B4h8KeIvGGnaVd+A/B2m+GPBukeD/DX gL4a2njbxn4z8PfDvw9Z6OseqanofhbVPHHiCDSdb8caz4w8e3thPbxeJvGPiC4tYrof2VX8MOGe Lsp4KzvFZhnOA4Ur5VisvwEKEKGN4myyOCw2VZhgsNKpjcS8DmGX4jC51R9phoVssp5XmFHG4jA0 sRHMcQpfOrG1sPUxNKMac66nCcrtxoT55ShJrlXPCalTdpNT54OKlbkR/9k= --=====================_1201407==_.REL-- From steve.bennett@airliquide.com Tue Sep 3 17:52:51 2002 From: steve.bennett@airliquide.com (steve.bennett@airliquide.com) Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 10:52:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200209031752.g83Hqpw21695@Ag.arizona.edu> Hello, About three months ago I planted two Plum Treees in my yard. One is a Santa Rosa and the other is a Satsuma and they are about four feet apart, I water them both the same way about every three to four days. The Santa Rosa seems to be doing just fine but the Satsuma's leaves have turned brown and the tree looks to be struggling. Could it be to much or not enough water? Or do the leaves turn brown because of the Arizona heat? Thank You. From dpalmer@bakersfield.com Tue Sep 3 18:48:29 2002 From: dpalmer@bakersfield.com (Debbie Palmer) Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 11:48:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Wasps Message-ID: <6D32517004178743B3E795110ED09FDA32494D@exchange.bakersfieldcalifornian.net> we have a lot of wasps around our pool, we have a lot of acreage and fruit trees, we can't even swim in our pool for we have hundreds of them in it. HELP What can we do. Debbie Palmer--CSR Mission Possible dpalmer@bakersfield.com Ph. 395-7622 Fax 395-7557 From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Tue Sep 3 22:06:22 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 15:06:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Killing bermuda grass in your shrub beds Message-ID: <001c01c25396$39758c80$461d0a3f@ibmbna6040> An herbicide containing a chemical called Flazifop can be used to kill bermuda grass by spraying over the top of your shrubs with out damaging your shrubs. One such product with the trade name of GRASS BE GONE contains this chemical. Be sure to read the label. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: venkeraz@msn.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Tuesday, September 03, 2002 10:34 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Bermuda grass has invaded the flowers and shrubs planted throughout my yard. Is there a herbicide that will kill bermuda grass without killing the flowers and shrubs? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From RONALDDAVIS2237@MSN.COM Tue Sep 3 20:51:20 2002 From: RONALDDAVIS2237@MSN.COM (RONALDDAVIS2237@MSN.COM) Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 13:51:20 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200209032051.g83KpKw01830@Ag.arizona.edu> Help! Can you help me figure out why my Crimson Sweet Watermelons are splitting open at various sizes, before they are ripe? I have experimented with the watering schedual, even allowing them less water than normal, and it didn't seem to make a difference. When the first 5 or 6 fruits began to ripen, they were large -upwards of 20lbs. the size they are supposed to grow- and healthy looking. Now they don't seem to want to grow that large & have slowed-down -that is, if they don't split in half first. Any help would be appreciated. Thank You. Ron. From jerry@intrec.com Wed Sep 4 14:40:49 2002 From: jerry@intrec.com (Jerry Cline) Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 07:40:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Wasps In-Reply-To: <6D32517004178743B3E795110ED09FDA32494D@exchange.bakersfieldcalifornian.ne t> References: <6D32517004178743B3E795110ED09FDA32494D@exchange.bakersfieldcalifornian.ne t> Message-ID: At 11:48 -0700 09/03/2002, Debbie Palmer wrote: > we have a lot of wasps around our pool, we have a lot of acreage and fruit trees, we can't even swim in our pool for we have hundreds of them in it. HELP What can we do. Debi - We've always allowed wasps to drink from our pool. We've not bothered them, and they've never bothered us. I don't remember any of us ever being stung in 30+ years. We take pleasure in the observation that wasps have adapted feet that allows them to walk on water; they then put their head down, drink like a cow and take off with a full load - amazing! They drink, we swim. :) Keep in mind wasps are predators, and a very positive influence on your immediate environment; they generally do not eat what you eat, or destroy what you find useful, and they hunt and eat critters that may be "bugging" your orchard. :) In fact, if you have a lot of wasps, they're getting a lot to eat someplace close, and it sounds like your orchard may be benefiting from your "neighbors." Take a walk into your orchard and watch for them as they inspect the branches and leaves for some leaf-munching, or sap-sucking critter. When found, they're quick to grab the fresh protein and haul it home to their young. As an aside (a visual image here), you may notice when traveling that when stopped at a viewpoint or any general area where traveling vehicles are parked, wasps and more generally hornets are often there taking advantage of bugs that met their demise on the leading edges of the traveling vehicles -- An evolution is happening there, these critters swarm around the huge "dinner collectors" in a sort of symbiotic way -- you get your car cleaned, and they get all the protein they can eat. It's like a never ending cafeteria for them. That relational opportunity evolved just in this last century. Left alone, bees and wasps and hornets just want to do their thing and to let us do ours. Ain't nature grand! :-) Regards, -- Jerry Cline - Take only pictures - leave only footprints. If you want to live and thrive, let a spider run alive. From ASUsped@aol.com Wed Sep 4 08:33:31 2002 From: ASUsped@aol.com (ASUsped@aol.com) Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 04:33:31 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] half circles on the leaves of my rose bush! Message-ID: <180.d1413c5.2aa71f5b@aol.com> Hello everyone, Yesterday, I was standing behind my window looking at my rose bush (Golden Showers) and I saw this thing flying and landing on one of the leaves for few seconds and then flew away and to my horror, there was a hole on the leaf of the shape of half circle. Please, help me as I am going to start hosing my rose bush with water every morning but I have a feeling I am going to need to do more.....Mike P.S: This is my second email to this list and I hope this time it would go through. From Allen Keltner" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_005A_01C2539C.51E10460 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Last March I bought 2 California Pepper Trees of the 15 gallon size. I = planted them about 30 feet apart in my back yard. They receive full = sun, until about 4pm in the afternoon. The one to the South side of the yard is doing very well, but the one to = the North side, died. I have been treating both of them exactly the = same. Both were planted by the nursery that I bought them from. About = 2 weeks ago, I called the nursery and told them about the one tree dying = and they said I could pick up a replacement. I did that and then = planted it in the same spot, with fresh composted soil. Now this new tree is dying as well. I hardly gave it any water, as they = said that they require very little, but I did soak it when I first = planted it and then again about a day later. It immediately started = going down hill though, from the time I put it in the hole. Does anyone have any idea what the problem is? I live in the SE corner = of Surprise and the ground here was once farmland. (Wasn't it all? = grin) Please help! Allen Keltner Surprise, AZ --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.384 / Virus Database: 216 - Release Date: 8/21/02 ------=_NextPart_000_005A_01C2539C.51E10460 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Last March I bought 2 California Pepper Trees of the 15 gallon = size. =20 I planted them about 30 feet apart in my back yard.  They receive = full sun,=20 until about 4pm in the afternoon.
 
The one to the South side of the yard is doing very well, but the = one to=20 the North side, died.  I have been treating both of them exactly = the=20 same.  Both were planted by the nursery that I bought them = from. =20 About 2 weeks ago, I called the nursery and told them about the one tree = dying=20 and they said I could pick up a replacement.  I did that and then = planted=20 it in the same spot, with fresh composted soil.
 
Now this new tree is dying as well.  I hardly gave it any = water, as=20 they said that they require very little, but I did soak it when I first = planted=20 it and then again about a day later.  It immediately started going = down=20 hill though, from the time I put it in the hole.
 
Does anyone have any idea what the problem is?   I live = in the SE=20 corner of Surprise and the ground here was once farmland.  (Wasn't = it=20 all?  grin)
 
Please help!
 
Allen Keltner
Surprise, AZ
 
 

---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG = anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: = 6.0.384 /=20 Virus Database: 216 - Release Date: 8/21/02
------=_NextPart_000_005A_01C2539C.51E10460-- From imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net Wed Sep 4 05:32:11 2002 From: imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 22:32:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Drip Irrigation Guidelines References: <200208311836.g7VIagw27200@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <006b01c253d5$95853630$1b50530c@delljor9501> ----- Original Message ----- From: > Can't find drip irrigation guidelines There is a vey comprehensive and somehat technical booklet online at http://www.amwua.org/dripirrigguide.pdf . It is 62 pages long and takes up over 13 MB of RAM and takes a few minutes to load. Olin From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Sep 4 02:53:39 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 04 Sep 2002 02:53:39 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] plum trees - Santa Rosa and Satsuma Message-ID: The Santa Rosa plum is recommended for the low desert, but the Satsuma is recommended for 3500-7000 feet. I suspect summers are too lot in the low desert for the Satsuma. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: steve.bennett@airliquide.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 10:52:51 -0700 (MST) > >Hello, About three months ago I planted two Plum Treees in my yard. One is >a Santa Rosa and the other is a Satsuma and they are about four feet apart, >I water them both the same way about every three to four days. The Santa >Rosa seems to be doing just fine but the Satsuma's leaves have turned brown >and the tree looks to be struggling. Could it be to much or not enough >water? Or do the leaves turn brown because of the Arizona heat? >Thank You. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Sep 4 03:01:17 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 04 Sep 2002 03:01:17 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] frip irrigation guidelines Message-ID: A booklet titled LANDSCAPE WATERING BY THE NUMBERS is available free from most of the cities in the valley as well as from many nurseries. This booklet will give you detailed info on watering your trees and plants. also try these web sites: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://www.amwua.org/xscp-wateringschedules.htm Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: radome48@earthlink.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 11:36:42 -0700 (MST) > >Can't find drip irrigation guidelines > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Sep 4 02:48:35 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 04 Sep 2002 02:48:35 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Wasps Message-ID: I don't have experience with wasps, but I would think that you will need to find the nests and have them killed and removed (as you would with a beehive on your property that is presumed to be africanized). Wasps are beneficial, eating insects, but it sounds like you need to reduce the population. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Debbie Palmer" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Wasps >Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 11:48:29 -0700 > > >we have a lot of wasps around our pool, we have a lot of acreage and fruit >trees, we can't even swim in our pool for we have hundreds of them in it. >HELP What can we do. > >Debbie Palmer--CSR >Mission Possible >dpalmer@bakersfield.com >Ph. 395-7622 >Fax 395-7557 > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com Wed Sep 4 15:46:41 2002 From: Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com (Zelhart Alan-rpcs30) Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 08:46:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] half circles on the leaves of my rose bush! Message-ID: <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B99307032F406E@az33exm25.corp.mot.com> Hi ASUsped, No need to worry, the damage is only cosmetic, and will not hurt the rose bush itself. The damage you saw done, was done by a cutter bee. Since they do not ingest the leaf, and only use it as nest material, there is no way to kill these bees. -- Chat with you later... ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.gizmoaz.com Over 250 roses and over 160 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! ***** Check out the garden cams on Saturdays and Sundays! ***** Microsoft products work great ... until you install them ! -----Original Message----- From: ASUsped@aol.com [mailto:ASUsped@aol.com] Sent: Wednesday, September 04, 2002 1:34 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] half circles on the leaves of my rose bush! Hello everyone, Yesterday, I was standing behind my window looking at my rose bush (Golden Showers) and I saw this thing flying and landing on one of the leaves for few seconds and then flew away and to my horror, there was a hole on the leaf of the shape of half circle. Please, help me as I am going to start hosing my rose bush with water every morning but I have a feeling I am going to need to do more.....Mike P.S: This is my second email to this list and I hope this time it would go through. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From jerry@intrec.com Wed Sep 4 16:19:22 2002 From: jerry@intrec.com (Jerry Cline) Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 09:19:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] half circles on the leaves of my rose bush! In-Reply-To: <180.d1413c5.2aa71f5b@aol.com> References: <180.d1413c5.2aa71f5b@aol.com> Message-ID: A natural part of our beautiful Sonoran desert ecology The cause is small bee (barely 1/2 inch long and can walk through a small soda straw) commonly referred to as the "leafcutter bee" but the bee is know to entomologists as the alfalfa leafcutter bee (Megachile pacifica (Panzer)). The bee is gorgeous little metallic green and grey critter, and harmless, except to the subjective look of a priceless rose :) The leafcutter is one of natures better pollinators and is praised as the best, even better than honeybees for pollinating certain crops, alfalfa comes to mind. Alfalfa is difficult to pollinate; a "small part of the blossom has to be unlocked to get at the nectar, and when this happens, the blossom releases a mechanism that "bangs" the back of the bee leaving it pollen grains in exchange for the nectar. Honeybees tire of the the extra work and harassment but the leafcutter can get in and trip that "trigger" without getting thumped, and they work tirelessly. They love to nest in pre-made holes the size of soda straws (you may even notice they can use the round hole in an outdoor electrical socket. Consequently, pollinating companies use cartons of soda straws open and exposed on both ends, and the bees fill these straws with bits of leaves (like your rose petal :) and pollen and eggs. Leafcutters like soft leaves like bougainvillea and rose petals. Pollinator companies then sell those leafcutter egg laden straw packages in areas where seed production and pollination are an important part of local commerce. Interesting trivia: The eggs are put in the orifice one at a time, then more leaves, pollen, and another egg, etc. The last egg placed hatches first, then the next one in, and the next one in and on and on until all the young bees are released in the reverse order of which they were placed. Ain't nature wonderful?! What do you do about them? I watch them, you may want to put light gauze or some other screening over the valued item. Mileages differ! :-) Many refs on the Internet, I found this: http://www.pollination.com/PublicationsResearch/IPSpub01.htm http://www.pollination.com/PublicationsResearch/IPSpub02.htm -- Jerry Cline Master Gardener - (First graduate group) The best fertilizer is in the gardener's own footsteps. -Chinese proverb From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Wed Sep 4 21:55:02 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 14:55:02 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] half circles on the leaves of my rose bush! Message-ID: <001601c2545d$ba362ec0$532c0a3f@ibmbna6040> Mike, What you saw was a cutter bee removing a piece of leaf to make his nest. Since the bee does not ingest the leaf, unfortunately there is not any thing you can do to stop the bee. It is something that all of us that grow roses as well as some other shrubs have to endure. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian -----Original Message----- From: ASUsped@aol.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Wednesday, September 04, 2002 8:22 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] half circles on the leaves of my rose bush! > > Hello everyone, > > Yesterday, I was standing behind my window looking at my rose bush (Golden >Showers) and I saw this thing flying and landing on one of the leaves for few >seconds and then flew away and to my horror, there was a hole on the leaf of >the shape of half circle. Please, help me as I am going to start hosing my >rose bush with water every morning but I have a feeling I am going to need to >do more.....Mike > >P.S: This is my second email to this list and I hope this time it would go >through. > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From jefferys@peoriaaz.com Wed Sep 4 21:51:24 2002 From: jefferys@peoriaaz.com (jefferys@peoriaaz.com) Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 14:51:24 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200209042151.g84LpOp19964@Ag.arizona.edu> Are there any charts that show the relative water demand between tree species? Seems like I may have seen one years ago that (for example) showed mesquites to be higher water users than generally thought by the public. From tishahays@yahoo.com Thu Sep 5 00:53:33 2002 From: tishahays@yahoo.com (tishahays@yahoo.com) Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 17:53:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200209050053.g850rXp26196@Ag.arizona.edu> We have two large oleanders which have always done well. They are about 8 years old. About six months ago, however, they started losing leaves about halfway down the bush and many of these branches are dead. The remaining growth looks dry but the plants are on a drip system which waters them 2.5 hours every 3 days. What could be going on? Should we trim the oleanders once it cools off and hope they rejuvenate in the cooler weather? From bradleyl@Ag.arizona.edu Thu Sep 5 01:53:52 2002 From: bradleyl@Ag.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Wed, 04 Sep 2002 18:53:52 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] insect id Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020904184906.046ba670@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_35171644==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Exciting Entomology Course being offered at Maricopa Ag Center!! It may be possible to set up a car pool from the extension office. Please contact Carol Noyes if you are interested in carpooling! *September 18, 25 & October 2, 9, 2002 Insect Identification for the Practitioner - ENTO 497a (1 credit, UA) Maricopa Agricultural Center, 37860 W. Smith-Enke Road Maricopa, AZ. 2:00 to 6:00 p.m. Fee involved. PCO, PCA, and CCA continuing education credits available. For more information you can contact Dawn Gouge, Kirk Smith or Peter Ellsworth at (520) 568-2273. (more information at: http://ag.arizona.edu/crops/counties/all/classes/bugidclass02.html ) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens --=====================_35171644==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Exciting Entomology Course being offered at Maricopa Ag Center!!

It may be possible to set up a car pool from the extension office.  Please contact Carol Noyes if you are interested in carpooling!


*September 18, 25 & October 2, 9, 2002
Insect Identification for the Practitioner -
ENTO 497a (1 credit, UA)

Maricopa Agricultural Center, 37860
W. Smith-Enke Road Maricopa,
AZ. 2:00 to 6:00 p.m.

Fee involved. PCO, PCA, and CCA continuing education credits available.

For more information you can contact Dawn Gouge, Kirk Smith or Peter Ellsworth at (520) 568-2273.
(more information at:
http://ag.arizona.edu/crops/counties/all/classes/bugidclass02.html )


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ  85040-8807

Phone:  (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax:  (602) 470-8092
email:  BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/
http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens

 --=====================_35171644==_.ALT-- From pamela.koch@nsepnet.org Thu Sep 5 02:26:40 2002 From: pamela.koch@nsepnet.org (Pamela Lynn Tremain Koch) Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 19:26:40 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] lantana Message-ID: <001f01c25483$add2af70$0f02000a@hewlett2ih5nie> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001C_01C25448.FE934CC0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Has anyone had experience with relatively established lantana (over 1 = year in the ground) suddenly dying? I have lost two in the past weeks. = Within a period of about two weeks, they shriveled up and died. When I = pulled them out, the roots were mostly gone--either rotted away or eaten = away. I have since doused several others that were looking poorly with = some garden insecticide, thinking it might be grubs... they seem to be = recovering. I also lost one hibiscus from a similar cause.=20 I have never had problems with lantana before this and wanted to know if = anyone else had. Also, I wanted to confirm is there is a good chance = this is a grub problem, so I don't use insecticide when I would be = better off treating some kind of plant disease. =20 These are on the same drip system as my other plants, and the drips were = clear and working fine. The plants get watered every 4 days with 3 = gallons water per plant (1 gallon drippers for 3 hours). The other = plants on this system are all looking fine. Thanks ------=_NextPart_000_001C_01C25448.FE934CC0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Has anyone had experience with = relatively=20 established lantana (over 1 year in the ground) suddenly dying?  I = have=20 lost two in the past weeks.  Within a period of about two weeks, = they=20 shriveled up and died.  When I pulled them out, the roots were = mostly=20 gone--either rotted away or eaten away.  I have since doused = several others=20 that were looking poorly with some garden insecticide, thinking it might = be=20 grubs... they seem to be recovering.  I also lost one hibiscus from = a=20 similar cause.
 
I have never had problems with lantana = before this=20 and wanted to know if anyone else had.  Also, I wanted to confirm = is there=20 is a good chance this is a grub problem, so I don't use insecticide when = I would=20 be better off treating some kind of plant disease. 
 
These are on the same drip system as my = other=20 plants, and the drips were clear and working fine. The plants get = watered=20 every 4 days with 3 gallons water per plant (1 gallon drippers for 3=20 hours).  The other plants on this system are all looking = fine.
 
Thanks
------=_NextPart_000_001C_01C25448.FE934CC0-- From cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu Thu Sep 5 16:19:27 2002 From: cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu (Carol Noyes) Date: Thu, 05 Sep 2002 09:19:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grand Opening Celebration, UA Campus Botanical Garden Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020905091518.00ab86e0@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_4742122==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed The University of Arizona Campus Arboretum's Grand Opening Celebration on the West Lawn of Old Main, in the Historic District of the University of Arizona Campus. 9:00 a.m. until 10:00 a.m. September 28, 2002 The UA Campus has been honored with acceptance into the American Association of Botanical Gardens and Arboreta Our keynote speaker will be David Yetman, host of KUAT's "The Desert Speaks" Shuttles to Old Main will be available from the Tyndall Parking Garage, located south of University Blvd and east of Euclid. --=====================_4742122==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
The University of Arizona Campus Arboretum's Grand Opening Celebration

on the West Lawn of Old Main, in the Historic District of the University of Arizona Campus.

9:00 a.m. until 10:00 a.m.
September 28, 2002

The UA Campus has been honored with acceptance into the American Association of Botanical Gardens and Arboreta

Our keynote speaker will be David Yetman, host of KUAT's "The Desert Speaks"


Shuttles to Old Main will be available from the Tyndall Parking Garage, located south of University Blvd and east of Euclid.
--=====================_4742122==_.ALT-- From msmaxicat@aol.com Thu Sep 5 18:52:04 2002 From: msmaxicat@aol.com (msmaxicat@aol.com) Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 11:52:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200209051852.g85Iq4p18884@Ag.arizona.edu> Why is my Bermuda lawn grass brown after I mow it? It is beautiful before mowing, then awful ughly after. About the time it greens up again, it is time to mow it again. I think it gets browner each time I mow it. Early in the spring/summer, this was not true. I would appreciate your help. Thanks. From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Thu Sep 5 22:18:04 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 15:18:04 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bermuda grass turns brown after mowing Message-ID: <001b01c2552a$1c0e93e0$cb04e043@ibmbna6040> If you are cutting off more than 1/3 of the total height of your bermuda grass the grass is very likely to turn brown. My bermuda (common) is growing fast enough that it must be cut about every 4 to 5 days in order to stay within the 1/3 rule. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: msmaxicat@aol.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Thursday, September 05, 2002 1:30 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Why is my Bermuda lawn grass brown after I mow it? It is beautiful before mowing, then awful ughly after. About the time it greens up again, it is time to mow it again. I think it gets browner each time I mow it. Early in the spring/summer, this was not true. I would appreciate your help. Thanks. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Thu Sep 5 22:58:13 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 15:58:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] California Pepper Trees Message-ID: <003401c2552f$b7e29960$cb04e043@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0031_01C254F5.0A6F9240 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Allen, The California Pepper is susceptable to Texas Root Rot and nematodes. = You said that the property where you live was former farmland. If cotton = was grown on the property and cotton is susceptable to Texas Root Rot, = and it is nearly impossible to rid the soil of TRR, this could be your = problem. Other areas that I would suggest investigating are the composted soil = and the native soil for a toxic chemical. You stated that you gave the newly planted tree very little water, a = newly planted tree planted in summer here in the low desert should be = watered every other day for two weeks at which time the interval should = be extended one day at a time for two weeks until after 10 weeks you = would be watering once every 7 days.=20 Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: Allen Keltner To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Wednesday, September 04, 2002 8:26 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] California Pepper Trees Last March I bought 2 California Pepper Trees of the 15 gallon size. = I planted them about 30 feet apart in my back yard. They receive full = sun, until about 4pm in the afternoon. The one to the South side of the yard is doing very well, but the one = to the North side, died. I have been treating both of them exactly the = same. Both were planted by the nursery that I bought them from. About = 2 weeks ago, I called the nursery and told them about the one tree dying = and they said I could pick up a replacement. I did that and then = planted it in the same spot, with fresh composted soil. Now this new tree is dying as well. I hardly gave it any water, as = they said that they require very little, but I did soak it when I first = planted it and then again about a day later. It immediately started = going down hill though, from the time I put it in the hole. Does anyone have any idea what the problem is? I live in the SE = corner of Surprise and the ground here was once farmland. (Wasn't it = all? grin) Please help! Allen Keltner Surprise, AZ --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.384 / Virus Database: 216 - Release Date: 8/21/02 ------=_NextPart_000_0031_01C254F5.0A6F9240 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Allen,
The California Pepper is susceptable to Texas Root = Rot and=20 nematodes. You said that the property where you live was former = farmland. If=20 cotton was grown on the property and cotton is susceptable to Texas Root = Rot,=20 and it is nearly impossible to rid the soil of TRR, this could be your=20 problem.
Other areas that I would suggest investigating  = are the=20 composted soil and the native soil for a toxic chemical.
You stated that you gave the newly planted =  tree very=20 little water, a newly planted tree planted in summer here in the low = desert=20 should be watered every other day for two weeks at which time the = interval=20 should be extended one day at a time for two weeks until after 10 weeks = you=20 would be watering once every 7 days. 
 
Good luck.
 
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
-----Original = Message-----
From:=20 Allen Keltner <alk444@hotmail.com>
To: = arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu = <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Date:=20 Wednesday, September 04, 2002 8:26 AM
Subject: = [Arid_gardener]=20 California Pepper Trees

Last March I bought 2 California Pepper Trees of the 15 gallon=20 size.  I planted them about 30 feet apart in my back yard.  = They=20 receive full sun, until about 4pm in the afternoon.
 
The one to the South side of the yard is doing very well, but the = one to=20 the North side, died.  I have been treating both of them exactly = the=20 same.  Both were planted by the nursery that I bought them = from. =20 About 2 weeks ago, I called the nursery and told them about the one = tree dying=20 and they said I could pick up a replacement.  I did that and then = planted=20 it in the same spot, with fresh composted soil.
 
Now this new tree is dying as well.  I hardly gave it any = water, as=20 they said that they require very little, but I did soak it when I = first=20 planted it and then again about a day later.  It immediately = started=20 going down hill though, from the time I put it in the hole.
 
Does anyone have any idea what the problem is?   I live = in the=20 SE corner of Surprise and the ground here was once farmland.  = (Wasn't it=20 all?  grin)
 
Please help!
 
Allen Keltner
Surprise, AZ
 
 

---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by = AVG=20 anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: = 6.0.384=20 / Virus Database: 216 - Release Date: = 8/21/02
------=_NextPart_000_0031_01C254F5.0A6F9240-- From jwmoneal@cox.net Thu Sep 5 23:11:42 2002 From: jwmoneal@cox.net (jwmoneal@cox.net) Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 16:11:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200209052311.g85NBgp16063@Ag.arizona.edu> I want to plant a winter lawn, is there a way to do it with out using all the manure that I see people use. I forget the grass I have but it’s the same stuff that they have at Bank One ballpark. Thank You From kasko@teneyckla.com Fri Sep 6 15:25:43 2002 From: kasko@teneyckla.com (kasko@teneyckla.com) Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 08:25:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200209061525.g86FPhp05609@Ag.arizona.edu> I have an acacia constricta that was planted in 1995. The past coupple years, I have lost several branches to intense winds during monsoons. Last night I lost two more huge branches. The size is appr 17hx15w. The branches seem so heavy and strong. My question is - is there anything about this species or acacia's in particular that make them susceptible to cracking, or is the problem probably more cultural practices? Thanks! From jdrox@cox.net Fri Sep 6 13:32:53 2002 From: jdrox@cox.net (jdrox@cox.net) Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 06:32:53 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200209061332.g86DWrp20583@Ag.arizona.edu> I have 2 questions: #1] I'm transplanting a compas barrel cactus. Sometime after I moved it from its natural spot last December, it grew 2 knobby shape bumps near the top that are full of small ants and flies. Is this an indication that my cactus is diseased? #2] where can I find information on building and irrigating a raised bed vegetable garden that will survive our desert environment? From jerry@intrec.com Fri Sep 6 17:41:58 2002 From: jerry@intrec.com (Jerry Cline) Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 10:41:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200209052311.g85NBgp16063@Ag.arizona.edu> References: <200209052311.g85NBgp16063@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: At 16:11 -0700 09/05/2002, jwmoneal@cox.net wrote: > I want to plant a winter lawn, is there a way to do it with out using all the manure that I see people use. I forget the grass I have but itís the same stuff that they have at Bank One ballpark. heh... the bad smell does not indicate that manure is a good thing :) I suggest forgetting the smelly stuff unless you want to impress the neighbors and have brown chunks `N chips on your lawn for awhile. :-) While manure ads organics, it also ads salts (Sonoran soils don't need added salts) and it of course also adds some nitrogen. To fertilize lawns (and most plants in your yard) in the general Phoenix area, buy the cheapest nitrogen fertilize you can find (usually ammonium sulfate). The sulfuric acid makeup of ammonium sulfate is good for our soil, it helps to break down the alkaline base that complicates our growing problems -- double your pleasure save money and the job is easier than hauling and spreading manure. :) Here is a conservative consideration that allows you to add the organics that can be a side benefit of manure. When mowing your lawn, allow the clippings to fall back on the lawn. Not only do they add the organics you may have added if you would have used the smelly stuff, they add a large PLUS! Those clippings are adding back a (insatiably needed) mulch base, and 3% nitrogen. The mulch breaks down and is gone in a short time and then you mow and add more. Its an optimum cycle. Fact 1 The reason grass clippings can create a stink and even spontaneously combust when closed off from air is because of their moisture, organic makeup and relative high nitrogen content -- organisms thrive in that environment, and so will your grass if you leave the clippings lay. Fact 2 Uhmmm -- think about it, the stuff being tossed in disposed clippings is the stuff we go to the nursery for, to pay extra for, to add back to our lawn so it will be healthy, be able to hold moisture and grow green. After mowing, clippings dry out almost immediately, and the grass grows quickly up and around them (because they create a good and healthy growing environment). Bottom line: clippings add value and are invisible almost immediately -- and we toss them? And you do not have to haul those heavy bags of the good stuff to the garbage? Think the process through! Fact 3 When we bag clippings and toss them they become a major bulk item to be added to the valley area landfills, where it creates unneeded bulk, and volatile gases? We can all benefit by understanding and working with the natural process? We just need to understand more, and have more facts about our real needs? We Master Gardeners hope to be able to assist with that part, and with all our heart, we want to assist those who care to be able to accomplish their wants and needs in the most natural, and as it often turns out, the least expensive way possible. If, when you mow, you get too much mulch in some areas and it does not look good, give it a kick and spread it around, or pick up some hand-fulls and sprinkle them in the more sparse areas -- spread the wealth! By the way.. the above applies to *ALL* lawns, not just winter grass - happy gardening! -- Jerry Cline Master Gardener - (First graduate group) The best fertilizer is in the gardener's own footsteps. -Chinese proverb From cbi64i@cox.net Fri Sep 6 21:31:17 2002 From: cbi64i@cox.net (cbi64i@cox.net) Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 14:31:17 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200209062131.g86LVHp28957@Ag.arizona.edu> transplanted 2 queen palms that areapproximately 10-12 feet high 10 days ago. used b1 in holes and have been watering daily. subsequently after 7 days i gave it another b1 treatment and soaked it into the ground. one of the palms is doing fine, the second one is showing signs of shock..the center stalk(heart) is turning brown..I have checked with three nurseries and have gotten three different solutions to the problem..you are the experts so i'm going to ask, what should i do? thanx, in advance From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Fri Sep 6 23:19:09 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 16:19:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palms newly planted Message-ID: <000e01c255fb$e372d0a0$8304e043@ibmbna6040> If the root ball and the planting hole were soaked real well when your Queens were planted and watered every other day for two weeks there after, trees will usually survive our hot summer temps. Watering can then be extended to every third day for two weeks, then every fourth day for two weeks following the same schedule until you are watering once every 7 days which should be followed for the rest of the summer. I usually form a berm out about two to three feet from the trunk and fill the space with 3 to 4 inches of mulch which will help to keep the roots cool and cut down on the water loss. It is not uncommon for the palms to go into shock after they are planted so be sure they get adequate water. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: cbi64i@cox.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Friday, September 06, 2002 3:28 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >transplanted 2 queen palms that areapproximately 10-12 feet high 10 days ago. >used b1 in holes and have been watering daily. subsequently after 7 days i gave it another b1 treatment and soaked it into the ground. one of the palms is doing fine, the second one is showing signs of shock..the center stalk(heart) is turning brown..I have >checked with three nurseries and have gotten three different solutions to the problem..you are the experts so i'm going to ask, what should i do? > >thanx, in advance > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From aliceknd@cox.net Fri Sep 6 23:20:36 2002 From: aliceknd@cox.net (aliceknd@cox.net) Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 16:20:36 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200209062320.g86NKap19837@Ag.arizona.edu> I live in Mesa. I would like to plant some bulbs this fall.... daffodils and irises. I have heard that I must refrigerate them first for a few weeks. Is this true? I would appreciate any other planting tips... when, where, how deep, etc. Thanks. From jls4@alumni.cwru.edu Mon Sep 9 05:34:50 2002 From: jls4@alumni.cwru.edu (Jonathan Shaw) Date: Sun, 08 Sep 2002 22:34:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Found some large seeds (?) in my yard Message-ID: Today I was out in the yard digging a deep trench to run a PVC pipe from the front yard side of the block wall to the back yard side of the wall. At about 1.5 feet deep, I found maybe 10-20 of these things which I think are seeds. I was just wondering if anyone could identify them (just for curiosity's sake). Thanks! http://users.cableaz.com/~sneakymoose/landscaping/SomeKindOfSeeds.jpg I forgot to put something in the picture to get an idea of size... But I would guess that these are a .25" x .25" x .125" or thereabouts. Also, I blurred out the non-relevant areas of the picture to make the download much smaller. -Jonathan {;-) jls4@alumni.cwru.edu From Jane@Rasor.org Mon Sep 9 02:22:16 2002 From: Jane@Rasor.org (Jane@Rasor.org) Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2002 19:22:16 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200209090222.g892MGp23670@Ag.arizona.edu> We've been in our house for almost 10 years. The house was 6 years old when we bought it. The original landscaping gave us a lot of privacy but the trees and plants weren't planted with the idea of what they would look like when they were mature. For example, in several spots along our wall we have bouganvillea but now the trees ares so tall that the bouganvillea never get any sun. Also many trees and plants are grouped to closely together and have overgrown their location. Our citrus need pruning badly and are becoming diseased. I think we need more help than a Master Gardener can give us but I don't know where to start. I have people who cut my lawn and trim the bushes but they aren't qualified. Where can I go for help? I need someone who knows about plants and landscaping. (I'm willing to pay.) From Jane@Rasor.org Mon Sep 9 02:18:51 2002 From: Jane@Rasor.org (Jane@Rasor.org) Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2002 19:18:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200209090218.g892Ipp23374@Ag.arizona.edu> We've been in our house for almost 10 years. The house was 6 years old when we bought it. The original landscaping gave us a lot of privacy but the trees and plants weren't planted with the idea of what they would look like when they were mature. For example, in several spots along our wall we have bouganvillea but now the trees ares so tall that the bouganvillea never get any sun. Also many trees and plants are grouped to closely together and have overgrown their location. Our citrus need pruning badly and are becoming diseased. From kat621@cox.net Sun Sep 8 21:01:51 2002 From: kat621@cox.net (kat621@cox.net) Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2002 14:01:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200209082101.g88L1pp28952@Ag.arizona.edu> when to plant quinoa in the phoenix area? when to plant bergamot in the phoenix area? thanks From kads@qwest.net Sun Sep 8 20:41:18 2002 From: kads@qwest.net (kads@qwest.net) Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2002 13:41:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200209082041.g88KfIp27293@Ag.arizona.edu> When is the best time to transplant a mature mexican bird of paradise plant? We have a large, established plant which is located in a spot which encroaches on a walkway. We never get to enjoy the full benefit of the plant blossoms, because we continually need to cut it back so it doesn't block the access. We want to move it into the middle of the yard where it can grow unobstructed. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Sep 8 18:01:01 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 08 Sep 2002 18:01:01 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] re: Spectracide Weed & Grass Killer Message-ID: Spectracide is a brand name and their product line includes many different products for controlling weeds, other plants, insect pests and diseases. I assume you used their "Weed & Grass Killer". It is similar to Roundup. This is a contact poison (kills any plant whose foliage is sprayed). It becomes inert once it enters the soil. It should not harm dormant bulbs in the ground. Do not spray soil - this poison is only effective on actively growing foliage. Bermuda grass is persistent, so you probably want to continue to water the area and reapply to bermuda grass as it sprouts to be certain the area is free of bermuda grass. Here is some specific information on Spectracide Weed & Grass Killer: Spectracide Systemic Grass & Weed Killer2 is a non-selective herbicide formulated to quickly kill grass & weeds down to the root -- in and around patios, driveways, walkways and fences * Fast? Works in 24 hours * Effective? Systemic action kills the root * Works only when it contacts foliage and is deactivated when it hits the soil, making it ideal for use around flowers, shrubs and trees * Treated areas can be replanted or reseeded in just 48 hours * Apply on a sunny day when the temperature is above 60o F * If it rains within 12 hours of application, retreatment may be necessary * Don't spray on desirable plants ? this product will kill them too. Don't spray on windy days to avoid drift to desirable plants. Rinse them off immediately if contact occurs. * Read all product instructions before using Ready to use contains: 0.18% Diquat Dibromide; 0.06% Fluazifop-p-butyl Linda Drew Master Gardener >---------- Forwarded message ---------- >Date: Sat, 7 Sep 2002 18:12:16 -0700 (MST) >From: lremiger@hotmail.com >To: webmaster@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: Comment from the College site > >A new comment has been posted to the College general site > >Individual: Linda Remiger >Email: lremiger@hotmail.com >City: Edwardsville, State: IL >Country: US >Comment: I recently stared a search on how to remove Bermuda grass from my >Fescue and alas, came to the conclusion I waould also lose the Fesuce >intertwined with the Bermuda. This now done, my question would be, did I >use the incorrect herbicide? I used Spectracide which said it would kill >Bermuda in two days and then I could reseed. Because I wished to have time >available for a reapplication I used this product rather than Roundup. >Every site I have seen recommended Roundup. Have I killed the little bulbs >with Spectracide. Do I need to hunt these down as I turn the ground over? >Do I need to moisten the tilled ground with Spectracide or maybe Roundup. >Your input is greatly appreciated. Linda Remiger _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From Jonathan Kandell" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0032_01C256DC.C2081A60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Some stray cucumbers came up in my desert garden this year. I'd love to = know what they are since they survived the hot tucson summer and still = produced delicious fruit with almost no water! Unfortunately I have no = idea where the seed came from (compost?) It's a funny looking cucumber, = much shorter than the average (4"?) and much rounder. It has smooth = skin with subtle ribs, no ribs. It looks almost like a ghord shape, or = tear shaped, not at all like cucumbers I am used to. Any ideas? I = thought it might just be overgrown pickling cucumbers, but they don't = seem to ever get longer than 4". jk ------=_NextPart_000_0032_01C256DC.C2081A60 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Some stray cucumbers came up in my desert garden = this=20 year. I'd love to know what they are since they survived the hot tucson = summer=20 and still produced delicious fruit with almost no water!  = Unfortunately I=20 have no idea where the seed came from (compost?)  It's a funny = looking=20 cucumber, much shorter than the average (4"?) and much rounder.  It = has=20 smooth skin with subtle ribs, no ribs.  It looks almost like a = ghord=20 shape, or tear shaped, not at all like cucumbers I am used to.  Any = ideas?    I thought it might just be overgrown pickling = cucumbers, but=20 they don't seem to ever get longer than 4".
 
jk
------=_NextPart_000_0032_01C256DC.C2081A60-- From crudolphy@msn.com Sat Sep 7 03:48:29 2002 From: crudolphy@msn.com (crudolphy@msn.com) Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 20:48:29 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200209070348.g873mTp18124@Ag.arizona.edu> I need to have some soil tested for possible chemical or contanminents. Do you offer testing and how can I obtain it? Thank you. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Sep 7 03:28:30 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 07 Sep 2002 03:28:30 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] bulbs Message-ID: Tulips and hyacinths require chilling before planting here in the desert, but it shouldn't be necessary for iris and daffodils. Publication 382 has the information you need. It no longer seems to be available in the online listings of publications. If you will send your mailing address to me (ldrew@ag.arizona.edu) I will send you a print copy. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: aliceknd@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 16:20:36 -0700 (MST) > >I live in Mesa. I would like to plant some bulbs this fall.... daffodils >and irises. I have heard that I must refrigerate them first for a few >weeks. Is this true? I would appreciate any other planting tips... when, >where, how deep, etc. > >Thanks. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From tuckledin@cox.net Sat Sep 7 01:46:50 2002 From: tuckledin@cox.net (tuckledin@cox.net) Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 18:46:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200209070146.g871kop05918@Ag.arizona.edu> Wanting to get rid of our summer bermuda/winter rye grass and go to all rock.... how do we go about killing off the grass to get ready to put in rock? we also have a colored concrete border around the grass which will have to be dug up? Help...is this an easy project or should we keep the grass because it will be more work than we can even imagine? From Alan.Zelhart@Motorola.com Mon Sep 9 15:39:44 2002 From: Alan.Zelhart@Motorola.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Mon, 09 Sep 2002 08:39:44 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] bulbs References: Message-ID: <3D7CC0C0.5F063152@Motorola.com> Linda, Is it a certain type of hyacinths that require chilling? Mine come back and bloom every year without chilling. I am in Chandler. I want to make sure, so that I don't buy that particular kind of hyacinth. Most the ones I have, I have bought locally. Thanks, ----- Chat with you later... ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ***** In memory of those whose lives were stolen. September 11, 2001! ***** ----- Hell was full, so I came back ! Linda Drew wrote: > > Tulips and hyacinths require chilling before planting here > in the desert, but it shouldn't be necessary for iris and > daffodils. > > Publication 382 has the information you need. It no longer > seems to be available in the online listings of publications. > If you will send your mailing address to me (ldrew@ag.arizona.edu) > I will send you a print copy. > > Linda Drew > Master Gardener > > >From: aliceknd@cox.net > >To: > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 16:20:36 -0700 (MST) > > > >I live in Mesa. I would like to plant some bulbs this fall.... daffodils > >and irises. I have heard that I must refrigerate them first for a few > >weeks. Is this true? I would appreciate any other planting tips... when, > >where, how deep, etc. > > > >Thanks. > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Arid_gardener mailing list > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _________________________________________________________________ > Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From GHillier@Intersil.com Mon Sep 9 17:03:03 2002 From: GHillier@Intersil.com (GHillier@Intersil.com) Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 10:03:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200209091703.g89H33I09526@Ag.arizona.edu> How well does BOBSod actually perform in the shade? I have a lawn that is shaded by palm trees but gets ~4-5 hours of full sun each day in the summer. The EZ Turf that is currently planted there is in very bad shape. From andra@dellago.com Mon Sep 9 18:41:49 2002 From: andra@dellago.com (Andra Frederick) Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 13:41:49 -0500 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Watering Sego's Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C25806.A5CAE1E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have always been under the understanding that segos don't require very much water. I have 4 large healthy ones that are now 4 years old - they all came off of a big momma we have in the front yard. They all get direct west sun in texas (which is very hot) and they do great. They also don't get much water. You may want to read the following web site. It helped me a lot in caring for mine. http://www.rhapisgardens.com/sagos/ Good Luck! ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C25806.A5CAE1E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I have always been = under the=20 understanding that segos don't require very much water.   I = have 4=20 large healthy ones that are now 4 years old - they all came off of a big = momma we have in the front yard.  They all get direct west sun = in=20 texas (which is very hot) and they do great.  They also don't get = much=20 water.  You may want to read the following web site.  It = helped me a=20 lot in caring for mine. http://www.rhapisgardens.com= /sagos/ =20 Good Luck!
------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C25806.A5CAE1E0-- From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Mon Sep 9 21:46:25 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 14:46:25 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grass to desert landscaping Message-ID: <002e01c2584a$6dd205e0$e804e043@ibmbna6040> Killing the grass will be the easy part. An herbicide containing the chemical Glyphosate ( one trade name is Roundup ) will do the job. The grass must be watered and actively growing before applying Roundup, continue watering for two to three weeks and apply a second application of Roundup. This should kill any grass that was missed the first time. Removing the concrete border and spreading the stone will be the hardest part of the job. Do not put plastic under the stone. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: tuckledin@cox.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, September 09, 2002 8:24 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Wanting to get rid of our summer bermuda/winter rye grass and go to all rock.... > >how do we go about killing off the grass to get ready to put in rock? we also have a colored concrete border around the grass which will have to be dug up? > >Help...is this an easy project or should we keep the grass because it will be more work than we can even imagine? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Mon Sep 9 21:54:22 2002 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 14:54:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bob- Sod Message-ID: <003701c2584b$762f5480$e804e043@ibmbna6040> If the Easy Turf is not doing well because of the shade then the Bobsod will not do much better since it also is bermuda grass. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ----Original Message----- From: GHillier@Intersil.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, September 09, 2002 10:34 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >How well does BOBSod actually perform in the shade? I have a lawn that is shaded by palm trees but gets ~4-5 hours of full sun each day in the summer. The EZ Turf that is currently planted there is in very bad shape. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Sep 9 22:37:25 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 09 Sep 2002 22:37:25 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] mature landscape Message-ID: You are very fortunate to have mature landscaping! Plants, being living things, are constantly altering the microclimate. This can cause work for you, and also an opportunity to try some new things. Trees are generally the anchor points of a landscape, so if yours are healthy and they fit your needs, keep the trees in place and work on a redesign. You might want to remove the bougainvillea if is not getting enough sun now; or alternatively you could remove the tree if you need more sun year-round in that area. Plants that were located too close together pose another problem. You may want to select the plants you wish to keep in that area and remove the others to give the chosen plants a better opportunity to grow. Citrus do best if they are not pruned, except to remove deadwood, crossing branches and hazards (like growing into power lines). If you do prune, be very careful to protect the trunk and large branches from sunburn. Think about how you want the landscape to look and the function you want it to perform. THen start making changes to accomplish your new vision. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Jane@Rasor.org >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2002 19:18:51 -0700 (MST) > >We've been in our house for almost 10 years. The house was 6 years old >when we bought it. The original landscaping gave us a lot of privacy but >the trees and plants weren't planted with the idea of what they would look >like when they were mature. For example, in several spots along our wall >we have bouganvillea but now the trees ares so tall that the bouganvillea >never get any sun. Also many trees and plants are grouped to closely >together and have overgrown their location. Our citrus need pruning badly >and are becoming diseased. > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Sep 9 22:56:15 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 09 Sep 2002 22:56:15 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] bermuda lawn, removing Message-ID: Removing an established lawn is an involved project with a number of steps. See the following for detailed information: http://www.scottnet.com/sawara/BermudaLawn.htm The question is really why you want to remove the lawn and then you can better answer whether or not it is worth the work to do so. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: tuckledin@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 18:46:50 -0700 (MST) > >Wanting to get rid of our summer bermuda/winter rye grass and go to all >rock.... > >how do we go about killing off the grass to get ready to put in rock? we >also have a colored concrete border around the grass which will have to be >dug up? > >Help...is this an easy project or should we keep the grass because it will >be more work than we can even imagine? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Sep 9 23:06:02 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 09 Sep 2002 23:06:02 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mexican bird of paradise, transplanting Message-ID: It can be difficult to successfully transplant a large, well-established shrub. This would probably be a good time to attempt it, but you will need to use a two-stage process. Call the Extension Center in Tucson (520) 626-5161 to request a handout. (I'm assuming you mean the bird of paradise that has yellow flowers as opposed to the red bird of paradise). Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: kads@qwest.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2002 13:41:18 -0700 (MST) > >When is the best time to transplant a mature mexican bird of paradise >plant? We have a large, established plant which is located in a spot which >encroaches on a walkway. We never get to enjoy the full benefit of the >plant blossoms, because we continually need to cut it back so it doesn't >block the access. We want to move it into the middle of the yard where it >can grow unobstructed. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Sep 9 22:49:49 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 09 Sep 2002 22:49:49 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] bergamot and quinoa, herbs Message-ID: I have not grown either of these. >From reference books, the bergamot (Monarda/beebalm/ Oswego tea) if frost sensitive and should probably be started from seed in the spring. Cutting and division could probably be done now. Quinoa is closely related to amaranth so I would guess it is a summer grower as well. Try doing some searches on the web (I use google.com, but you can use any search engine) for more information. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: kat621@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2002 14:01:51 -0700 (MST) > >when to plant quinoa in the phoenix area? >when to plant bergamot in the phoenix area? >thanks > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From spiritflight@kachina.net Tue Sep 10 04:58:51 2002 From: spiritflight@kachina.net (redrocklover) Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 21:58:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] high desert edible landscaping Message-ID: <009601c25886$c2027c80$a4502aa2@spiritflight> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0093_01C2584C.15374E20 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hello everyone :) My wife and I just bought a house in Lake Montezuma, AZ. We would like = to do a vegetable garden and fruit trees, but aren't sure of the best = way to shop for and select the proper plant stock for our area. Peaches, = blueberries, strawberries, cherries and kiwi are the fruits of choice. = Tomatoes, snap peas, green beans, and yellow squash are the choice = veggies. Any suggestions on varieties and sources? Matthew & Linda spiritflight@kachina.net ------=_NextPart_000_0093_01C2584C.15374E20 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hello everyone :)
 
My wife and I just bought a house in Lake Montezuma, AZ. We would = like to=20 do a vegetable garden and fruit trees, but aren't sure of the best way = to shop=20 for and select the proper plant stock for our area. Peaches, = blueberries,=20 strawberries, cherries and kiwi are the fruits of choice. Tomatoes, snap = peas,=20 green beans, and yellow squash are the choice veggies. Any suggestions = on=20 varieties and sources?
 
Matthew & Linda
spiritflight@kachina.net
 
------=_NextPart_000_0093_01C2584C.15374E20-- From ASUsped@aol.com Tue Sep 10 03:28:57 2002 From: ASUsped@aol.com (ASUsped@aol.com) Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 23:28:57 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] date palm trees Message-ID: <4f.23312785.2aaec0f9@aol.com> Hello everyone, I have 2 date palm trees that were planted 12 years ago and doing fairly well but the problem is that they were planted very close to each other. The distance between them is about 6 feet only and when they were first planted one was taller than the other. But now, they are the same height and the fronds are into each other and have no room. Is it possible for me to make one of them grow faster and become taller than the other? I was thinking if i cut the fronds of one them and leave the other one alone. That would make the one with the cut fronds grow faster than the other. What else can I do? I think this is another classic example when we plant tree we forget what they gonna look in 10 years......;-) thank you,,,,,Mike From nelsonk@val-tech.com Tue Sep 10 02:07:09 2002 From: nelsonk@val-tech.com (nelsonk@val-tech.com) Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 19:07:09 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200209100207.g8A278I03491@Ag.arizona.edu> How do you pick prickly pears (other than carefully, of course) From sauncony@yahoo.com Tue Sep 10 01:09:12 2002 From: sauncony@yahoo.com (sauncony@yahoo.com) Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 18:09:12 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200209100109.g8A19CI26922@Ag.arizona.edu> Is it possible to grow Edamame (ediable soy bean) in Maricopa County? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Sep 10 00:48:49 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 00:48:49 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] help me identify this cucumber Message-ID: Lemon cucumber is an heirloom variety that produces small, round yellow cucumbers. Manduria is an Italian cucumber is also small, round and green. THe West Indian gherkin is small, round and spiny; heirloom that was grown at Monticello by Jefferson. Any chance you were growing one of these? I haven't checked Native Seed Search yet, but they may also have a round variety. from the web: " But I did have the experience from planting cucumbers and muskmelons next to each other of getting a very round cucumber." ?? Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Jonathan Kandell" >Reply-To: "Jonathan Kandell" >To: , "Organic Gardenling List" > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] help me ident5ify this cucumber >Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2002 02:09:26 -0700 > >Some stray cucumbers came up in my desert garden this year. I'd love to >know what they are since they survived the hot tucson summer and still >produced delicious fruit with almost no water! Unfortunately I have no >idea where the seed came from (compost?) It's a funny looking cucumber, >much shorter than the average (4"?) and much rounder. It has smooth skin >with subtle ribs, no ribs. It looks almost like a ghord shape, or tear >shaped, not at all like cucumbers I am used to. Any ideas? I thought it >might just be overgrown pickling cucumbers, but they don't seem to ever get >longer than 4". > >jk _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Sep 9 23:10:05 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 09 Sep 2002 23:10:05 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] bulbs Message-ID: >From: Alan Zelhart >Reply-To: Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com >To: Linda Drew , arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] bulbs >Date: Mon, 09 Sep 2002 08:39:44 -0700 > >Linda, > >Is it a certain type of hyacinths that require chilling? Mine come back >and bloom every year without chilling. I am in Chandler. I want to >make sure, so that I don't buy that particular kind of hyacinth. Most >the ones I have, I have bought locally. > >Thanks, > >----- >Chat with you later... >----- >Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 > >http://www.GardenersCorner.com > > ***** In memory of those whose lives were stolen. September 11, 2001! >***** >----- > Hell was full, so I came back ! > > >Linda Drew wrote: > > > > Tulips and hyacinths require chilling before planting here > > in the desert, but it shouldn't be necessary for iris and > > daffodils. > > > > Publication 382 has the information you need. It no longer > > seems to be available in the online listings of publications. > > If you will send your mailing address to me (ldrew@ag.arizona.edu) > > I will send you a print copy. > > > > Linda Drew > > Master Gardener > > > > >From: aliceknd@cox.net > > >To: > > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > >Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 16:20:36 -0700 (MST) > > > > > >I live in Mesa. I would like to plant some bulbs this fall.... >daffodils > > >and irises. I have heard that I must refrigerate them first for a few > > >weeks. Is this true? I would appreciate any other planting tips... >when, > > >where, how deep, etc. > > > > > >Thanks. > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > > >Arid_gardener mailing list > > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener I'm in Tucson. Grape hyacinth seem to do fairly well here without chilling but I don't know about other types. _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From jerry@intrec.com Mon Sep 9 23:54:02 2002 From: jerry@intrec.com (Jerry Cline) Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 16:54:02 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grass to desert landscaping In-Reply-To: <002e01c2584a$6dd205e0$e804e043@ibmbna6040> References: <002e01c2584a$6dd205e0$e804e043@ibmbna6040> Message-ID: At 14:46 -0700 09/09/2002, wrote: > Do not put plastic under the stone. Please explain (provide some detail about) the above statement. I've not seen that note before :) Thank you -- Jerry Cline Master Gardener - (First graduate group) The best fertilizer is in the gardener's own footsteps. -Chinese proverb From Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com Tue Sep 10 15:42:51 2002 From: Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com (Zelhart Alan-rpcs30) Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 08:42:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Purple Orchid Tree Message-ID: <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B99307032F427F@az33exm25.corp.mot.com> I have a Purple Orchid Tree that seems to have declined in the last couple of years. In previous years it was loaded with beautiful green leaves. The last two years it's leaves have become fewer and fewer, yet the branches are pliable, and green. I give the tree good deep soakings once a month, so I do not think watering is the issue. When I deep water it, I live the water on a slow run for 3 -4 hours at a time. I was told that it needed deep fertilization with probes to restore it back to a green lush tree. The price for doing this was $125. For one tree! Is there any other way that I myself can fertilize this tree and get it back on it's feet. My lawn is fertilized frequently, but the person who looked at the tree said the fertilizer never goes down to where the roots are. The Purple Orchid tree is a stunning tree, and if it takes $125 to get it back on its feet, that is what I'll do, but if there is a less expensive way, I'm all ears. Any suggestions? -- Chat with you later... ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com Over 250 roses and over 160 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! ***** In Memory of those who died on September 11, 2001 ***** What do you call a fly without wings ? A walk ! From mdilucido@toddassoc.com Tue Sep 10 16:21:08 2002 From: mdilucido@toddassoc.com (mdilucido@toddassoc.com) Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 09:21:08 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200209101621.g8AGL8I15969@Ag.arizona.edu> I didn't get any response following my first post so I'll try again. Any help is appreciated. 1) I'd like to plant some fruiting olives (not "Swan Hill" variety) but have been told by local nurseries that it's against the law to sell them in Phoenix and Tucson owing to their prodigious production of pollen. Are there nurseries outside of these cities that sell them? If I live in Lake Havasu City can I plant them? I assume the ordinance restricting their installation is municipal and not by county or state? 2) Regarding carob trees: I understand that I need both male and female trees to produce fruit. I want to locate the female close by and the male farther away because of its objectionable odor. My question is, if I plant only one of each how far away can the male tree be and still be able to pollinate the female? The farthest distance would be approximately 150'. Thanks again for for your help. From itharris@cox.net Tue Sep 10 16:24:34 2002 From: itharris@cox.net (itharris@cox.net) Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 09:24:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200209101624.g8AGOYI16742@Ag.arizona.edu> My Hibicus are dieing. They are all 1year about 3-4 feet tall & were healthy two weeks ago, then started to get pale & lose all color from the top leaves. The leaves on the bottom are still green & healthy. No outward sign of bugs. I have lost 1 already & the secound is going fast. HELP..... ith From jerry@intrec.com Tue Sep 10 16:30:33 2002 From: jerry@intrec.com (Jerry Cline) Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 09:30:33 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] date palm trees In-Reply-To: <4f.23312785.2aaec0f9@aol.com> References: <4f.23312785.2aaec0f9@aol.com> Message-ID: At 23:28 -0400 09/09/2002, ASUsped@aol.com wrote: > I have 2 date palm trees that were planted 12 years ago and doing fairly > well but the problem is that they were planted very close to each other. The > distance between them is about 6 feet only and when they were first planted > one was taller than the other. But now, they are the same height and the > fronds are into each other and have no room. We also have two (female) date palms that were planted exactly 72" apart about 34+ years ago, as they grew and the fonds touched, and the palms, considering the centers of the trunks, each gradually moved away from the other (as palms do when planted closely). The trees are now about 23 feet tall and the tops are a nominal 14 feet apart and still slightly touching. We like the look, they're a "matched set" its very natural. If we were to plant them again today, we wouldn't change a thing. Also, we only remove fronds when they have died and can be pulled off, and we eschew anyone wanting to trim our date palms. The pair makes a wonderful canopy for our back yard. :) -- Jerry Cline Master Gardener - (First graduate group) The best fertilizer is in the gardener's own footsteps. -Chinese proverb From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Sep 10 19:08:14 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 19:08:14 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] olive trees, carob trees Message-ID: Sorry you did not get a response the first time. * Planting of Olive trees (excluding the Swan Hill and Wilson varieties) and Mulberry trees is illegal in Pima County. I live in Tucson, and I assume Maricopa has a similar ordinance. Because they are illegal to plant, nurseries in the county do not stock olive, except for the Swan Hill and Wilson varieties. I believe Lake Havasu is in Mohave County, so you would need to contact that county office directly for olive ordinances in that county: Mohave County Cooperative Extension 101 E. Beale Street, Suite A Kingman, AZ 86401-5827 Phone: (928) 753-3788 Fax: (928) 753-1665 Conference Calls Only: (928) 753-5488 mohavece@ag.arizona.edu I do not know how carob is pollinated, but I would suspect insect pollination since it is listed as a tree with low production of wind-borne pollen. In that case, 150 feet should be fine for pollination. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: mdilucido@toddassoc.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 09:21:08 -0700 (MST) > >I didn't get any response following my first post so I'll try again. Any >help is appreciated. 1) I'd like to plant some fruiting olives (not "Swan >Hill" variety) but have been told by local nurseries that it's against the >law to sell them in Phoenix and Tucson owing to their prodigious production >of pollen. Are there nurseries outside of these cities that sell them? If I >live in Lake Havasu City can I plant them? I assume the ordinance >restricting their installation is municipal and not by county or state? 2) >Regarding carob trees: I understand that I need both male and female trees >to produce fruit. I want to locate the female close by and the male farther >away because of its objectionable odor. My question is, if I plant only one >of each how far away can the male tree be and still be able to pollinate >the female? The farthest distance would be approximately 150'. Thanks >again for for your help. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From kasko@teneyckla.com Tue Sep 10 18:49:08 2002 From: kasko@teneyckla.com (kasko@teneyckla.com) Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 11:49:08 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200209101849.g8AIn8I20992@Ag.arizona.edu> What is the result of a pecan tree if it has had the central leader cut back/or pruned in a v type shape? Will it affect the growth, health of the tree or just the nut production? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Sep 10 18:38:02 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 18:38:02 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] prickly pear fruit Message-ID: I use kitchen tongs.... >From: nelsonk@val-tech.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 19:07:09 -0700 (MST) > >How do you pick prickly pears (other than carefully, of course) > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From bchorner@mindspring.com Tue Sep 10 17:53:33 2002 From: bchorner@mindspring.com (bchorner@mindspring.com) Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 10:53:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200209101753.g8AHrXI06678@Ag.arizona.edu> Plan to get an ocotillo, approx. 8 foot, bare root. How should I water (how much) it at the beginning; how to water the first year and than how to water there-after? Also, how deep a hole and what type of soil? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Sep 10 18:33:03 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 18:33:03 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] hibiscus, yellowing and dying Message-ID: I suggest you check two things first -- water and nutrients. Overwatering can cause overall "paling" of a plant and eventually death. Check that plants are getting appropriate water (if outside, you can decrease watering frequency if you are getting regular rains). If in containers, check that the drainage holes are not clogged or the plants are not standing in water (use a saucer and dump excess water; use plant 'feet' to lift the pot). An iron deficiency will show yellowing in the new growth (veins remain green). Check when you last fertilized and check that the fertilizer contained micronutrients in addition to nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium. Miracid is a soluble fertilizer that might woek for you; I've also used citrus foot and palm food in a pinch because they contain micronutrients. Linda Drew Maaster Gardener >From: itharris@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 09:24:34 -0700 (MST) > >My Hibicus are dieing. They are all 1year about 3-4 feet tall & were >healthy two weeks ago, then started to get pale & lose all color from the >top leaves. The leaves on the bottom are still green & healthy. No >outward sign of bugs. I have lost 1 already & the secound is going fast. >HELP..... > >ith > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Sep 10 19:56:53 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 19:56:53 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] pecan tree, pruning Message-ID: I would think cutting out the leader (topping the tree) would not be good for the health of the tree. Do you know why this action was taken? from Cooperative Extension Bulletin A63R: If the trees have been properly trained in the first year of growth in the orchard or home planting site, no further pruning is necessary on most varieties except to remove broken or dead limbs. Such limbs should be cut back to the main scaffold limb or trunk and pruned to the collar. Don't cut flush with the trunk and don't leave a stub. After the tees have started to bear fruit, some doremant season tipping of 1 year-old shoots may be done to stimulate additional side branching and new fruiting shoots. One to 2 inches of only the most vigorous upright shoots should be tipped. The central leader and less vigorous horizontal branches should not be tipped. Linda Drew Master Gardener l >From: kasko@teneyckla.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 11:49:08 -0700 (MST) > >What is the result of a pecan tree if it has had the central leader cut >back/or pruned in a v type shape? > >Will it affect the growth, health of the tree or just the nut production? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From Chris_Nichols@Dell.com Tue Sep 10 19:49:53 2002 From: Chris_Nichols@Dell.com (Chris_Nichols@Dell.com) Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 14:49:53 -0500 Subject: [Arid_gardener] prickly pear fruit Message-ID: <0E3AD69FD4E1F24CAAF5FA798450C2C306EF5E@AUSXMPS304.aus.amer.dell.com> > -----Original Message----- > From: Linda Drew [mailto:drew_linda@hotmail.com] > Sent: Tuesday, September 10, 2002 1:38 PM > To: nelsonk@val-tech.com; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] prickly pear fruit > > > > I use kitchen tongs.... How do you peel/skin them? Thanks, Chris > > >From: nelsonk@val-tech.com > >To: > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 19:07:09 -0700 (MST) > > > >How do you pick prickly pears (other than carefully, of course) > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Arid_gardener mailing list > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Join the world's largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. > http://www.hotmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Sep 10 20:15:03 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 20:15:03 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] ocotillo, bareroot planting Message-ID: If you can, check out Mary Irish's book, "Gardening in the Desert", at your local libary. Chapter 11 suggests very careful selection at the nursery. Check for pliable canes that show some green and as large a root system as possible. Also demand to see the tag to verify that the plant was dug legally. Break up native soil just to depth of root ball and 4-5 times as wide. Plant the ocotillo and backfill with native soil. (Some suggest trimming any broken roots and dusting with soil sulfur). Make sure there is good drainage before planting. Ocotillo requires steady regular water to become established after transplanting. Water 2-3 times per month during the first summer. It may take a year or longer before the transplanted ocotillo produces its first leaves. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: bchorner@mindspring.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 10:53:33 -0700 (MST) > >Plan to get an ocotillo, approx. 8 foot, bare root. How should I water >(how much) it at the beginning; how to water the first year and than how to >water there-after? Also, how deep a hole and what type of soil? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From sales@AnchoragePrinting.com Tue Sep 10 20:02:14 2002 From: sales@AnchoragePrinting.com (Sales-Anchorage Printing) Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 12:02:14 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [AG] Mushrooms Message-ID: I have many mushrooms growing in my front yard how do I get rid of them and what causes them to grow? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Sep 10 19:43:00 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 19:43:00 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] high desert edible landscaping Message-ID: Lake Montezuma is in Yavapai County. Looking at the map, I think you are in Sunset Climate Zone 10 -- a zone that favors deciduous fruit trees and colder winters call for spring planting (rather than Tucson and Phoenix fall planting). Check Yavapai County web page for lots of information: http://ag.arizona.edu/yavapai/ For a listing of landscape plants: http://ag.arizona.edu/yavapai/anr/hort/xeriscape/ Cooperative Extension Bulletin Q365 lists deciduous fruit varieties for your area -- ask the Yavapai Cooperative Extension Agent for a copy. It includes apples, plums, grapes, raspberries, peaches, pears, apricots, cherries, strawberries, currants, and gooseberries. The bulletin lists specific varieties. Blueberries usually don't grow well in Arizona because they need a more acidic soil; I don't know if the kiwi will handle the cold in winter. The vegetables sound good from spring/summer planting. Again, check with the Yavapai Office for specific varieties. Arizona Cooperative Extension Yavapai County P.O. Box 388 500 S. Marina St. Prescott, AZ 86302 (520) 445-6590 Have fun. It sounds like a wonderful place to garden! Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "redrocklover" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] high desert edible landscaping >Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 21:58:51 -0700 > >Hello everyone :) > >My wife and I just bought a house in Lake Montezuma, AZ. We would like to >do a vegetable garden and fruit trees, but aren't sure of the best way to >shop for and select the proper plant stock for our area. Peaches, >blueberries, strawberries, cherries and kiwi are the fruits of choice. >Tomatoes, snap peas, green beans, and yellow squash are the choice veggies. >Any suggestions on varieties and sources? > >Matthew & Linda >spiritflight@kachina.net > _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From ASUsped@aol.com Tue Sep 10 20:40:22 2002 From: ASUsped@aol.com (ASUsped@aol.com) Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 16:40:22 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] thank youJerry..date plam trees Message-ID: <14b.13d0b8a0.2aafb2b6@aol.com> --part1_14b.13d0b8a0.2aafb2b6_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Thank you for responding to me, Jerry. I would like to know if other members of the list observed the same where the date palm trees just grew away from each other. Since they were planted 12 years ago ,I need to wait another 22 years....LOL How do you if the palm tree is female or male? I have 3 palm trees and they all produce dates but with no seeds and really not that tasty at all. I am originally from Saudi Arabia and I remember the dates back were very delicious. Can someone recommend me to a specialist on date palms. I'd like my date palms to produce good dates and I don't know how. Most of the people in the yellow pages are for queen palms problems not date palms.....thank you....Mike In a message dated 9/10/2002 10:12:19 AM US Mountain Standard Time, jerry@intrec.com writes: > We also have two (female) date palms that were planted exactly 72" > apart about 34+ years ago, as they grew and the fonds touched, and > the palms, considering the centers of the trunks, each gradually > moved away from the other (as palms do when planted closely). The > trees are now about 23 feet tall and the tops are a nominal 14 feet > apart and still slightly touching. We like the look, they're a > "matched set" its very natural. If we were to plant them again today, > we wouldn't change a thing. > > Also, we only remove fronds when they have died and can be pulled > off, and we eschew anyone wanting to trim our date palms. The pair > makes a wonderful canopy for our back yard. :) > > -- > Jerry Cline > Master Gardener - (First graduate group) > The best fertilizer is in the gardener's own footsteps. -Chinese proverb > > --part1_14b.13d0b8a0.2aafb2b6_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
       Thank you for responding to me, Jerry. I would like to know if other members of the list observed the same where the date palm trees just grew away from each other. Since they were planted 12 years ago ,I need to wait another 22 years....LOL

       How do you if the palm tree is female or male? I have 3 palm trees and they all produce dates but with no seeds and really not that tasty at all. I am originally from Saudi Arabia and I remember the dates back were very delicious.

       Can someone recommend me to a specialist on date palms. I'd like my date palms to produce good dates and I don't know how. Most of the people in the yellow pages are for queen palms problems not date palms.....thank you....Mike

     

In a message dated 9/10/2002 10:12:19 AM US Mountain Standard Time, jerry@intrec.com writes:


We also have two (female) date palms that were planted exactly 72"
apart about 34+ years ago, as they grew and the fonds touched, and
the palms, considering the centers of the trunks, each gradually
moved away from the other (as palms do when planted closely). The
trees are now about 23 feet tall and the tops are a nominal 14 feet
apart and still slightly touching. We like the look, they're a
"matched set" its very natural. If we were to plant them again today,
we wouldn't change a thing.

Also, we only remove fronds when they have died and can be pulled
off, and we eschew anyone wanting to trim our date palms. The pair
makes a wonderful canopy for our back yard. :)

--
Jerry Cline <jerry@intrec.com>
Master Gardener - (First graduate group)
The best fertilizer is in the gardener's own footsteps. -Chinese proverb



 --part1_14b.13d0b8a0.2aafb2b6_boundary-- From jerry@intrec.com Tue Sep 10 21:28:20 2002 From: jerry@intrec.com (Jerry Cline) Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 14:28:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [AG] Mushrooms In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: At 12:02 -0800 09/10/2002, Sales-Anchorage Printing wrote: > I have many mushrooms growing in my front yard how do I get rid of them and > what causes them to grow? Do they grow outward in an expanding ring from a central point, or just random? In general over watering can create ideal mushroom growing conditions. Also any dead or decaying organic matter such as old roots or other woody items can encourage growth, especially if conditions are on the damp side. -- Jerry Cline Master Gardener - (First graduate group) The best fertilizer is in the gardener's own footsteps. -Chinese proverb From jerry@intrec.com Tue Sep 10 22:10:06 2002 From: jerry@intrec.com (Jerry Cline) Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 15:10:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] thank youJerry..date plam trees In-Reply-To: <14b.13d0b8a0.2aafb2b6@aol.com> References: <14b.13d0b8a0.2aafb2b6@aol.com> Message-ID: At 16:40 -0400 09/10/2002, ASUsped@aol.com wrote: > Thank you for responding to me, Jerry. I would like to know if other > members of the list observed the same where the date palm trees just > grew away from each other. Since they were planted 12 years ago ,I > need to wait another 22 years....LOL They do grow away from each other, that is a palm survival technique. From now on when you see any kind of palm group in close plantings, you're going to notice the trees leaning away from each other. > How do you if the palm tree is female or male? I have 3 palm trees and > they all produce dates but with no seeds and really not that tasty at > all. I am originally from Saudi Arabia and I remember the dates back > were very delicious. Females are capable of fruiting, but unless fertilized with with the pollen from a male tree, they are usually seedless and pithy. Walk around your neighborhood next spring when your dates just begin to develop their spathes (the sheath containing the potential fruit) and look at other date trees. You will see that some date trees show a different style spathe and when it opens it has a proliferation of yellow fine powder (with sort of a 'sexy" odor when smelled closely :). You place that powder on cotton balls, dust your date blossoms, loosely tie the strings of blossoms into bundles with a couple of cotton balls inside. Use slip knots so they can expand as they grow, then comes the protection from everything that can ruin them. Heh.. you could say, you're performing a "dateing service!" chortle... There is a jokeline that goes with the above, but I'll not repeat it here :-) You can buy date pollen at some of the larger nurseries in the spring. You can order procedural papers from the Maricopa Extension office with instructions on how to proceed from there. The first thing you'll find is that raising dates, collecting the pollen spathes, introducing the pollen to your fruiting spathes, then protecting the delicacies you've created from moisture, birds and bugs is a whole lot like work. Fun, but arduous. Also, in my case, as noted, I do NOT like to trim the canopy, so getting in among the zillions of hypodermic needles on the base of the fronds, is really painful, and even dangerous. I finally just figured it was not worth the trouble and let the birds and bugs have them. > Can someone recommend me to a specialist on date palms. I'd like my > date palms to produce good dates and I don't know how. Most of the > people in the yellow pages are for queen palms problems not date > palms. There are several. One I know of is really good, and like me a sort of "retired Master Gardner," grows dates over by Queen Creek. He imported Madjool (sp?) date trees from California (Madjooles are huge and wonderful - like candy bars!). I don't think he gets involved at the public level like this, but he is an information fount. His name is Michael Kuzmik, a long time friend - we were both in the beekeeping business in the 1980's. But also check the Maricopa Co-op literature sources. They have some really good material on date raising (at least the collection of stuff I got from there in the late 1980's is an awesome collection! Those materials may even be online now, someone else will have to answer that question. Best regards and happy dateing! :) -- Jerry Cline Master Gardener - (First graduate group) The best fertilizer is in the gardener's own footsteps. -Chinese proverb From jerry@intrec.com Tue Sep 10 21:23:43 2002 From: jerry@intrec.com (Jerry Cline) Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 14:23:43 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] prickly pear fruit In-Reply-To: <0E3AD69FD4E1F24CAAF5FA798450C2C306EF5E@AUSXMPS304.aus.amer.dell.com> References: <0E3AD69FD4E1F24CAAF5FA798450C2C306EF5E@AUSXMPS304.aus.amer.dell.com> Message-ID: At 14:49 -0500 09/10/2002, Chris_Nichols@dell.com wrote: > > I use kitchen tongs.... > > How do you peel/skin them? A recent documentary on KUET TV Phx shows Mexicans handling them with bare hands, but I would kitchen tongs as well. It also shows them handling the pads much like fish, and they were, in effect "filleting" the cactus pads. They used a cutting board, and they slipped a narrow a narrow/thin fillet style knife under the skin, flipped the skin off, turned the pad, and grabbed another, repeating the process in high speed. They churned through the the stack of pads like oyster schuckers in a local contest. They eat and sell the product raw, canned and bottled. They speak highly of the attributes of the cactus flesh. I've never tried it, but we have a HUGE smooth pear cactus on the point of our property, and I'm tempted. It is prolific, we have to trim it often, and we haul hundreds of pounds per year to the compost. :-) -- Jerry Cline Master Gardener - (First graduate group) The best fertilizer is in the gardener's own footsteps. -Chinese proverb From Barbara@customscientific.com Tue Sep 10 23:18:48 2002 From: Barbara@customscientific.com (Barbara Marcus) Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 16:18:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: <004e01c25920$849a5e90$0000a398@Home> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_004B_01C258E5.BE4A9870 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I planted a climbing rose-Queen Elizabeth, in March. It was doing fine = until August when the older leaves turned all brown. The new growth = looks good. I thought it was getting too much sun so I made a shade = screen for it. The rose faces south. I water with 4 gallons three = times a week. Should I remove the brown leaves- it looks bad (This rose = is planted by a church walkway so it gets seen often) Should I = fertilize now. About 10 days ago i gave it some liquid fish emulsion = and chelated iron. And do I prune a little in September? thanks ------=_NextPart_000_004B_01C258E5.BE4A9870 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I planted a climbing rose-Queen = Elizabeth, in=20 March.  It was doing fine until August when the older leaves turned = all=20 brown.  The new growth looks good.  I thought it was getting = too much=20 sun so I made a shade screen for it.  The rose faces south.  I = water=20 with 4 gallons three times a week.  Should I remove the brown = leaves- it=20 looks bad (This rose is planted by a church walkway so it gets seen = often) =20 Should I fertilize now.  About 10 days ago i gave it some = liquid  fish=20 emulsion and chelated iron.  And do I prune a little in = September? =20 thanks
------=_NextPart_000_004B_01C258E5.BE4A9870-- From imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net Wed Sep 11 06:09:09 2002 From: imRuhestand@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 23:09:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Edible Soy Beans References: <200209100109.g8A19CI26922@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <012601c25959$e2889b00$6d53530c@delljor9501> ----- Original Message ----- From: > Is it possible to grow Edamame (ediable soy bean) in Maricopa County? Yes. Plant late March to mid April after the soil warms. -Olin From rarmstrongsprint01@earthlink.net Wed Sep 11 13:47:51 2002 From: rarmstrongsprint01@earthlink.net (rarmstrongsprint01@earthlink.net) Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 06:47:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200209111347.g8BDloI24907@Ag.arizona.edu> I have (had) some ground cover that was lost this year due to a malfunction of the drip while we were on vacation. I would like to replace them but I don't know what they are called. They are low growing(approx 12-18 inches) with bright yellow flowers that bloom in the evening. The leaves are narrow and long. The plant sends out long shoots that attatch to the ground. I hope someone recognises this plant from my (garbled) discription. Thanks, Rebecca From laurab2@cox.net Wed Sep 11 17:36:04 2002 From: laurab2@cox.net (laurab2@cox.net) Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 10:36:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200209111736.g8BHa4I06280@Ag.arizona.edu> Do you have a plan for making a garden waterfall? From alf066s@smsu.edu Wed Sep 11 17:16:55 2002 From: alf066s@smsu.edu (Amy Ferguson) Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 12:16:55 -0500 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Community Garden Information Message-ID: <3D802451@caliber> Could you please send me information and an application about your community garden program. Thanks, Amy Ferguson 615 N. Glenstone Springfield, MO 65802 From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Sep 11 18:50:04 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 18:50:04 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Community Garden Information Message-ID: In Tucson, check the web page for information and agrements: http://www.communitygardensoftucson.org/ In Phoenix, find information at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/comunity/comunity.htm Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Amy Ferguson >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu, cac@cacscw.org, clmanthey@smfb.org, >dirt@dug.org, ecramer@dehort.org, gjmitche@ucdavis.edu, >kbeisner@tivoli.com, letsgrow@srv.net, soleilpaz@aol.com, >soquinn@littlerock.state.ar.us >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Community Garden Information >Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 12:16:55 -0500 > >Could you please send me information and an application about your >community >garden program. > >Thanks, >Amy Ferguson >615 N. Glenstone >Springfield, MO 65802 > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Sep 11 18:10:51 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 18:10:51 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] hibiscus, yellowing and dying Message-ID: The following web site lists labs that do soil testing: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/soiltest.htm Tests can be expensive and you need to know what you want them to test for -- heavy metals, specific herbicides, etc. You probably will want to call several before making a decision. You may want to check for grubs in the soil, too. Crubs can eat roots, but usually the symptoms you will see are general wilting. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: >To: "Linda Drew" >Subject: Re: Re: [Arid_gardener] hibiscus, yellowing and dying >Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 13:28:31 -0400 > > > > Dear Linda, > >Thanks for your replay. However I know that over watering is not the >problem. Lack of the proper nutrients may be, althought my gut says there >is somthing else going on, these were very healthy plants two weeks ago. >Please tell me were I can get the soil tested. >Thanks >ith > > From: "Linda Drew" > > Date: 2002/09/10 Tue PM 02:33:03 EDT > > To: itharris@cox.net, arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu > > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] hibiscus, yellowing and dying > > > > > > I suggest you check two things first -- water and nutrients. > > > > Overwatering can cause overall "paling" of a plant and eventually > > death. Check that plants are getting appropriate water (if > > outside, you can decrease watering frequency if you are getting > > regular rains). If in containers, check that the drainage holes > > are not clogged or the plants are not standing in water (use > > a saucer and dump excess water; use plant 'feet' to lift the > > pot). > > > > An iron deficiency will show yellowing in the new growth > > (veins remain green). Check when you last fertilized and > > check that the fertilizer contained micronutrients in > > addition to nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium. Miracid is a > > soluble fertilizer that might woek for you; I've also used > > citrus foot and palm food in a pinch because they contain > > micronutrients. > > > > Linda Drew > > Maaster Gardener > > > > >From: itharris@cox.net > > >To: > > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > >Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 09:24:34 -0700 (MST) > > > > > >My Hibicus are dieing. They are all 1year about 3-4 feet tall & were > > >healthy two weeks ago, then started to get pale & lose all color from >the > > >top leaves. The leaves on the bottom are still green & healthy. No > > >outward sign of bugs. I have lost 1 already & the secound is going >fast. > > >HELP..... > > > > > >ith > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > > >Arid_gardener mailing list > > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > Join the world?s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. > > http://www.hotmail.com > > > > _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Sep 11 18:17:18 2002 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 18:17:18 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] plant ID, primrose Message-ID: The plant you describe could be sundrops (Oenthera fruticosa). Could also be Ozark sundrops (O. macrocarpa) or Saltillo evening primrose (O. stubbei). Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: rarmstrongsprint01@earthlink.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 06:47:51 -0700 (MST) > >I have (had) some ground cover that was lost this year due to a malfunction >of the drip while we were on vacation. I would like to replace them but I >don't know what they are called. They are low growing(approx 12-18 inches) >with bright yellow flowers that bloom in the evening. The leaves are narrow >and long. The plant sends out long shoots that attatch t