From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Apr 1 00:50:00 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 00:50:00 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] killing bermuda around trees Message-ID: Wait for the summer and actively growing bermuda. Apply a herbicide containing glyphosate (such as Roundup)to the grass, but be careful not to spray plants you do not want to kill. You may need to repeat the treatment in about two weeks. The herbicide is translocated in the plant and will take some time to kill the grass, but it will also kill the roots because it is translocated. There is little residual left in the soil. You could also use a selective herbicide containing fluazifop (such as Fusilade) to selectively kill grass without killing broadleaf plants. Be sure to read all label information carefully and follow the procedures given. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: TN@asu.edu >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 16:24:48 -0700 (MST) > >What is the best way to get rid of bermuda >grass if I want to preserve the trees around >the area and plant in the area where the grass >is killed? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Apr 1 00:59:32 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 00:59:32 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] green winged insects on iris Message-ID: most important! first identify what is causing the damage. the green winged "pests" may be lacewings -- they are good guys who eat the pests. You do not want to kill lacewings. See if you can observe what is actually chewing the leaves. The cause might be a moth larvae (caterpillar) or snails. To check for snails, set shallow pans into the soil with the lip flush with the soil surface and fill with stale beer. Check in the morning for drowned snails. If you observe caterpillars, try BT -- read and follow label directions. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: millervoffbm@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 15:30:37 -0700 (MST) > >How to get rid of miniscule green winged pests chewing on iris leaves. >Also find our orange lantana slow to flower? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Apr 1 01:01:16 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 01:01:16 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] orange lantana slow to flower Message-ID: Lantanas need ample sunlight to flower. How many hours of full sun do the plants receive? Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: millervoffbm@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 15:30:37 -0700 (MST) > >How to get rid of miniscule green winged pests chewing on iris leaves. >Also find our orange lantana slow to flower? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Apr 1 01:14:51 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 01:14:51 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ficus nitida Message-ID: Here ia a response to earlier questions: You should be winter watering on a three to four week interval with the water penetrating to a depth of two to three feet. It is time to go on a spring-fall schedule which should be every two to three weeks. Summer watering should be every 7 to 10 days. These recommendations are for the low desert and are based on your soil being mostly clay. If your soil is very sandy then you would have to water more frequently. I have several Ficus nitida planted 1 1/2 years ago that are wintered watered once per month with three two gallon drippers for three hours. As the trees matures I will be adding more drippers and a longer irrigation time. Your fertilizer spikes should be placed near the drip line of the tree. Check out the Master Gardener Manual on irrigation at : http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod >From: sallybreyer@hotmail.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 09:33:33 -0700 (MST) > >I have 5 ficus trees that are now 3 years old. (we bought them in 24in >boxes) They are located along a wall and 2 get full sun. > >The 2 that get full sun have sparse leaves on the west side and have not >grown as well as the ones that get a little shade. > >I am disappointed in the growth of all of the trees. They really have not >grown much at all. > >How much water should these trees be getting and what do you recomend for >fertilizer? Any advice is welcome > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Apr 1 01:20:28 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 01:20:28 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] sunflowers Message-ID: Most sunflowers grow well here. I've had good luck with music box (small) and Maximilian. Choose ones that will fit your space - the grey stripe grow well over six feet tall for example. If you are going to plant seed directly in the ground (rather than setting out transplants) protect the seedlings from birds with floating row cover. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: sallybreyer@hotmail.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 09:38:42 -0700 (MST) > >I am going to plant some sunflowers in my yard and wonder what variety does >well here. I am planning on doing the perimeter of my backyard (along the >wall). I would also like to do a border between my house and my neighbors >in the front yard as I have a strip garden already set up. What would be a >good choice for the front yard. These plants would not have a wall to >protect them from the wind. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Apr 1 01:24:30 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 01:24:30 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] caterpillars on Texas mountain laurel Message-ID: There is one type of caterpillar that loves to eat Texas mountain laurel; it doesn't bother other plants. Pick off all the caterpillars you see to reduce damage. Alternatively, use BT (a biological control) to kill the caterpillars. Read and follow label directions. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: jvasura@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 20:32:24 -0700 (MST) > >I live in Sun City West and have a problem with two trees. The trees are >Mountain Laurel, I think that is what you call them. They have blue >perfumy bunch of flowers with peanuts hanging from the tree. For the past >two years I am plagued with what I call tent catepillars. I have used >malathion spray but it doesn't seem to make them go away. > >Close to these trees my neighbor has two full blooming orange trees. I >don't seem to see the caterpillars on those trees. >Can you please provide some help. > >Can you provide me some advice on what to do? > >Thank you in advance. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Apr 1 01:34:33 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 01:34:33 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] watering tomatoes Message-ID: The objective is to keep the soil moist (not wet) in the root zone throughout the growing season. The root zone is probably no more that 18-24 inches deep, so you do not have to water as deeply as you would for a shrub or tree. Mulch the plants thickly to help retain soil moisture and minimize soil temperature fluctuations. The actual frequency will depend on many factors -- type of soil, size of plant, drainage, temperatures, etc. In an 'average' situation, with good mulch, you should not have to water every day. Watch the plant and soil and adjust the watering schedule as necessary. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: lbattraw@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 18:44:38 -0700 (MST) > >I'm trying to install a drip system in Mesa to water my tomatoes and >peppers. Some people say to water them like normal irrigation--water >deeply every 3 or 4 days. Others say apply 1 or 2 gallons per plant per >day, every day. Which is the correct approach? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Apr 1 01:41:12 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 01:41:12 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] lawn turfgrass Message-ID: One of the several hybrid bermuda sods should work for the lawn. Tifgreen, Tifway, Midiron and BOBsod are some examples. For more information, check out our turf publications at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: jjvisnansky@hotmail.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 11:21:37 -0700 (MST) > >This deals with lawns here in Phoenix. > >I have a small lawn area, 12 ft by 30 ft., mostly in sun, about 70%, with a >mature grapefruit tree in part of the area. I want a nice lawn in that >area. I don't want common bermuda. What type of grasses do you recommend. > >Thxs. > >Jay > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Apr 1 01:47:56 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 01:47:56 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] pruning orchid tree (Bauhinia) Message-ID: orchid tree (Bauhinia): Most trees require litle pruning because of slow growth and the development of many smaller stems. Prune only to remove dead twigs and branches after spring flowering has ceased. Lower branches are usually not removed. Seed pods can be removed with a long-handled pruner. (Eric Johnson's "Pruning, Planting and Care") Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: ron68cat@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 05:48:47 -0700 (MST) > >What is the best way & time to prune an orchid tree? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Help STOP SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Apr 1 01:55:09 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 01:55:09 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] removing bermuda Message-ID: We have had many lively discussions on this topic! Here are some guidelines: The time to begin to remove bermuda grass is during its active growing season. Please know that this is a major project. Bermuda grass will not go down willingly or without a fight! :>). The traditional method is to chemically kill the grass using an herbicide like Roundup, which takes a lot of persistance. You also have to be sure to remove all of the rhizomes or it will come back. also: My partner and I had great success starting a vegetable garden in the middle of our Bermuda patch without digging or using poisons. Skeptical? So were we. We used a technique known as "sheet-mulching." We were amazed at how well it worked--in fact we will probably never dig up Bermuda again. In a nutshell, sheet mulching involves putting down layers of nitrogenous matter (e.g., animal manure, blood meal), some sort of barrier layer (we used corrugated cardboard), and plant "debris" (fallen leaves, grass clippings, compost, etc.) on top of the weeds (i.e. Bermuda grass). Last February, we followed the steps outlined in _Introduction to Permaculture_ by Bill Mollison and Reny Mia Slay (see full reference below), watered the "heap" for about an hour, covered the heap with a tarp (to keep the dogs and cats from running through it), and let it sit for a month. A few weeks after we removed the tarp, we decided to ahead and plant Swiss chard and arugula in the sheet mulch area. Both were quite successful; in fact, the chard is still going 10 months later. As an added bonus we got a surprise pumpkin out of the process--must have had some seeds in the compost we used. A little later in the season we planted tomatoes and eggplant in the area, and they seemed to thrive as well. While this technique requires some patience too, it requires a lot less work than the dig-and-sift approach we used in our past gardening efforts. Here's the reference info: Introduction to Permaculture by B. C. Mollison and Reny Mia Slay (Contributor) Paperback - 224 pages Revised edition (November 1997) Ten Speed Press ISBN: 0908228082 >From: bbbrash@yahoo.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 09:34:58 -0700 (MST) > >I am trying to convert a corner of my lawn >into a garden. I am having trouble with >getting rid of the grass. >What is the best way to do this? > >Thank for any help >Bob > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Apr 1 02:52:02 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 02:52:02 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] wisteria Message-ID: There is a wood borer than can attack injured and dying wisteria. Provide proper cultural care to keep plants vigorous. Prune out and dispose of damaged plant parts, no other management known. Look for holes in bark and stains or oozing liquid on limbs or trunks to identify borers. ("Pests of Landscape Trees and Shrubs"). Diana Balazs stated that the wisteria will tolerate our desert heat if well irrigated, but it doesn't particularly care for our alkaline soil. She further states that the trick is to water it deeply to leach out the salts. Also to add an acidifier to the soil (Muracid is one). Wisteria need a spot that gets ample afternoon shade. Sunset Garden Book says wisteria is a twining, woody vine of great size, long life. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: pryekram@juno.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 17:18:15 -0700 (MST) > >We have a Wisteria tree that is over 20 years old, but now for the first >time some branches are dying? What could the problem be and what is the >lifespan of this plant? >Thanks. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Apr 1 02:59:25 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 02:59:25 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] plant nutrients Message-ID: Check the libary for a book, "Botany for Gardeners" to get started on your research. Also check out the basic botany section of the Master Gardener Manual: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs//garden/mg/ You might want to try tomatoes, since they are often grown hydroponically (in water, no soil): http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening/tomatoes.html Good luck on your science project! Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: jfrenkel@msn.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 11:00:44 -0700 (MST) > >I'm doing a science fair project comparing plants grown in water with >plants grown in soil. I was wondering what nutrients a plant needs to grow, >because I will need to add those nutrients to the plant in the water. Also, >what kind of plant do you think would be best for this. Any ideas or >information you think would be helpful would be appreciated. > Thank You, > Max Frenkel > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From ASUsped@aol.com Tue Apr 1 03:34:13 2003 From: ASUsped@aol.com (ASUsped@aol.com) Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 22:34:13 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] roses and lady bugs Message-ID: <119.215133c6.2bba62b5@aol.com> Hello everyone, This is the second time I buy lady bugs for my roses; the first time I saw them dead all over the place the next day. This time they just disappeared and I don't find them. I let them go at night and I watered the roses and I don't spray my roses with anything. The only thing I could think of is that even though there are some Aphids but maybe in small quantity to sustain the lady bugs. I don't know what I am doing wrong with them........Mike From watsontl@mindspring.com Tue Apr 1 04:53:15 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 21:53:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] sunflowers References: Message-ID: <004101c2f80a$9c4627c0$9408b83f@S0029317241> Mexican sunflowers (Tithonia sp.) are a good bet, too. The color of the flowers is almost unreal, especially in the early evening. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Linda Drew" To: ; Sent: Monday, March 31, 2003 6:20 PM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] sunflowers > > Most sunflowers grow well here. I've had good luck with > music box (small) and Maximilian. Choose ones that will > fit your space - the grey stripe grow well over six feet > tall for example. If you are going to plant seed directly > in the ground (rather than setting out transplants) protect > the seedlings from birds with floating row cover. > > Linda Drew > Master Gardener > > > > > > >From: sallybreyer@hotmail.com > >To: > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 09:38:42 -0700 (MST) > > > >I am going to plant some sunflowers in my yard and wonder what variety does > >well here. I am planning on doing the perimeter of my backyard (along the > >wall). I would also like to do a border between my house and my neighbors > >in the front yard as I have a strip garden already set up. What would be a > >good choice for the front yard. These plants would not have a wall to > >protect them from the wind. > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Arid_gardener mailing list > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. > http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From ckjones@Ag.arizona.edu Tue Apr 1 02:09:32 2003 From: ckjones@Ag.arizona.edu (Chris Jones) Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 19:09:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Arizona Firewise Communities 2003 Workshop - October 16, 2003 Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20030331190918.04e63b20@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_27719488==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Please post to arid_gardener listserve: Before the sun sets over another Saguaro, please mark your calendar for the Arizona Firewise Communities 2003 Workshop - October 16, 2003 Who: All community members are welcome to attend What: Discover what you can do for your home and community to make them better able to survive a wildfire Where: Tucson Convention Center, 260 South Church Street, Tucson, Arizona Important benefits of the workshop will be: * Sharing responsibilities in fire protection and community development * Exchanging knowledge, expertise, and ideas * Learning how to bring a Firewise workshop to your community Sponsors: Arizona State Land Department Bureau of Land Management Mount Lemmon Fire District National Park Service Tohono O'odham Nation - Fire Department Tucson Fire Department University of Arizona - Cooperative Extension US Fish and Wildlife Service US Forest Service Details and registration forms are available at: www.cals.arizona.edu/extension/firewise and at www.firewise.org (See attached file: Sun sets Postcard.doc) David N.Peters Fire Mitigation Specialist Safford/Tucson Fire Management Zone USDI, Bureau of Land Management, Tucson Field Office 12,661 East Broadway Boulevard, Tucson, Arizona 85748 Office (520) 258-7207, Pager (928) 552-7207, Fax (520) 258-7238 David_Peters@BLM.gov Christopher Jones, Gila County Extension Agent Agriculture and Natural Resources Programs University of Arizona Cooperative Extension Gila County Cooperative Extension 1177 Monroe Street Globe, Arizona 85501 USA (928) 425-7179 - Phone (928) 425-0265 - FAX ckjones@ag.arizona.edu - E-mail --=====================_27719488==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
Please post to arid_gardener listserve:

 

Before the sun sets over another Saguaro, please mark your calendar for the

Arizona Firewise Communities 2003 Workshop - October 16, 2003

 

      Who:  All community members are welcome to attend

 

      What:  Discover what you can do for your home and community to make

             them better able to survive a wildfire

 

      Where:  Tucson Convention Center, 260 South Church Street, Tucson,

              Arizona

 

 

      Important benefits of the workshop will be:

            * Sharing responsibilities in fire protection and community

              development

 

            * Exchanging knowledge, expertise, and ideas

 

            * Learning how to bring a Firewise workshop to your community

 

 

      Sponsors:

            Arizona State Land Department

            Bureau of Land Management

            Mount Lemmon Fire District

            National Park Service

            Tohono O'odham Nation - Fire Department

            Tucson Fire Department

            University of Arizona - Cooperative Extension

            US Fish and Wildlife Service

            US Forest Service

 

 

      Details and registration forms are available at:

 

      www.cals.arizona.edu/extension/firewise

      and at

      www.firewise.org

 

 

      (See attached file: Sun sets Postcard.doc)

 

 

      David N.Peters

      Fire Mitigation Specialist

      Safford/Tucson Fire Management Zone

 

      USDI, Bureau of Land Management, Tucson Field Office

      12,661 East Broadway Boulevard, Tucson, Arizona  85748

      Office (520) 258-7207, Pager (928) 552-7207, Fax (520) 258-7238

      David_Peters@BLM.gov

 

 

Christopher Jones, Gila County Extension Agent

Agriculture and Natural Resources Programs

University of Arizona Cooperative Extension

 

Gila County Cooperative Extension

1177 Monroe Street

Globe, Arizona  85501

USA

 

(928) 425-7179 - Phone

(928) 425-0265 - FAX

ckjones@ag.arizona.edu - E-mail

 
--=====================_27719488==_.ALT-- From stevendrew@mindspring.com Tue Apr 1 02:56:07 2003 From: stevendrew@mindspring.com (Steven C. Drew) Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 19:56:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] re:sunflowers Message-ID: <001601c2f7fa$3f497aa0$ddd056d1@Global> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C2F7BF.917B8240 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have yet to find a variety of sunflowers that does not do well here. I = really like the red, lemon yellow and autumn colors. The common grey = stripe does really well. I have sunflowers 12 months of the year now. = They come up volunteer, and are weeds in some areas and blessings in = others. Mine are out in the open and I haven't noticed wind being a = major factor. Sunflowers are easy and fun to grow. I water mine to a = depth of about 12"-18" several times a week. Mine do well wihtout any = fertilizer. Digging out the stumps in the fall is a little like digging = out a tree. For some interest and variety, grow gourds with the = sunflowers and just let the gourds use the sunflower as a trellis. Good luck! Steve Drew The question is: I am going to plant some sunflowers in my yard and wonder what variety = does well here. I am planning on doing the perimeter of my backyard = (along the wall). I would also like to do a border between my house and = my neighbors in the front yard as I have a strip garden already set up. = What would be a good choice for the front yard. These plants would not = have a wall to protect them from the wind. ------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C2F7BF.917B8240 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I have yet to find a variety of = sunflowers that=20 does not do well here. I really like the red, lemon yellow and autumn = colors.=20 The common grey stripe does really well. I have sunflowers 12 months of = the year=20 now. They come up volunteer, and are weeds in some areas and blessings = in=20 others. Mine are out in the open and I haven't noticed wind being a = major=20 factor. Sunflowers are easy and fun to grow. I water mine to a = depth of=20 about 12"-18" several times a week. Mine do well wihtout any fertilizer. = Digging=20 out the stumps in the fall is a little like digging out a tree. For some = interest and variety, grow gourds with the sunflowers and just let the = gourds=20 use the sunflower as a trellis.
 
Good luck!
 
Steve Drew
 
 
 
The question is:
 
I am going to=20 plant some sunflowers in my yard and wonder what variety does well = here.  I=20 am planning on doing the perimeter of my backyard (along the = wall).  I=20 would also like to do a border between my house and my neighbors in the = front=20 yard as I have a strip garden already set up.  What would be a good = choice=20 for the front yard.  These plants would not have a wall to protect = them=20 from the wind.
------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C2F7BF.917B8240-- From watsontl@mindspring.com Tue Apr 1 04:43:38 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 21:43:38 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Boojum seedling care References: <20030331171052.40311.qmail@web14310.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000801c2f809$444c9960$9408b83f@S0029317241> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C2F7CE.96BC9460 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I now have three tiny boojums, two of which were acquired at = Boyce-Thompson Arboretum. I was give a page of care information that = originally appeared in the journal Desert Plants. According to it, the = seedlings can go dormant between May and October (but apparently this is = not a given). If the seedling goes dormant, watering is supposed to be = "greatly reduced." When I pointed out to one of the arboretum staff = that this was not very precise, she said the soil should be allowed to = dry out between waterings when there are leaves on the plant. If the = seedling drops its leaves, but remains firm and does not wrinkle, it is = alive but dormant, and will leaf out again in the fall. Little, if any = water, should be needed when there are no leaves. (Watering when they = look wrinkled might help. I have not been able to get specific advice = on this.) Something that was stressed several times that boojum = seedlings need to be protected from strong direct sunlight, especially = when dormant. According to the care sheet, using Miracle Gro fertilizer at one third = the strength used for houseplants is good for the young plants when they = are leafed out. This is to be done "every third or fourth watering." = The folks at BTA suggested doing so monthly as long as new leaves were = being produced. Based on what I was told and have read, I'm keeping mine on a shady = porch that gets only a little direct sun in the early morning. When = the pots feel very light (and the plants show NO stress when they get = that dry, amazingly enough!) I water enough to let water run freely out = of the pots (to keep the salts from building up). I've only used = fertilizer once, and can't honestly say the plants responded. They are = looking pretty good, though. The real test will come when summer is in = full swing! Tom ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Sharon Caley=20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Monday, March 31, 2003 10:10 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Boojum seedling care Just purchased (fell in love with) a Boojum Tree seedling about 3 = inches high at Desert Botanical Gardens. Got conflicting care info and = would like some help. The Botanical Garden said no summer water. = Another knowlegeable person said they don't go dormant this young and = continue to water during the summer. I would guess that if it loses = it's leaves I should water only if it starts to shrivel. Any advice? = Sharon in Phoenix -------------------------------------------------------------------------= ----- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Platinum - Watch CBS' NCAA March Madness, live on your desktop! ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C2F7CE.96BC9460 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I now have three tiny boojums, two of = which were=20 acquired at Boyce-Thompson Arboretum.  I was give a page of care=20 information that originally appeared in the journal Desert=20 Plants.   According to it, the seedlings can go dormant = between May=20 and October (but apparently this is not a given).   If the = seedling=20 goes dormant, watering is supposed to be "greatly reduced."   = When I=20 pointed out to one of the arboretum staff that this was not very = precise, she=20 said the soil should be allowed to dry out between waterings when there = are=20 leaves on the plant.   If the seedling drops its leaves, but = remains=20 firm and does not wrinkle, it is alive but dormant, and will leaf out = again in=20 the fall.   Little, if any water, should be needed when there = are no=20 leaves.   (Watering when they look wrinkled might = help.   I=20 have not been able to get specific advice on this.)   = Something that=20 was stressed several times that boojum seedlings need to be protected = from=20 strong direct sunlight, especially when dormant.
 
According to the care sheet, using = Miracle Gro=20 fertilizer at one third the strength used for houseplants is good for = the young=20 plants when they are leafed out.   This is to be done "every = third or=20 fourth watering."   The folks at BTA suggested doing so = monthly as=20 long as new leaves were being produced.
 
Based on what I was told and have read, = I'm keeping=20 mine on a shady porch that gets only a little direct sun in the early=20 morning.   When the pots feel very light (and the plants show = NO=20 stress when they get that dry, amazingly enough!) I water enough to let = water=20 run freely out of the pots (to keep the salts from building = up).  =20 I've only used fertilizer once, and can't honestly say the plants=20 responded.   They are looking pretty good, though.   = The=20 real test will come when summer is in full swing!
 
 
Tom
 
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Sharon=20 Caley
Sent: Monday, March 31, 2003 = 10:10=20 AM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Boojum = seedling=20 care

Just purchased (fell in love with) a Boojum Tree = seedling about=20 3 inches high at Desert Botanical Gardens.  Got conflicting care = info and=20 would like some help.  The Botanical Garden said no summer = water. =20 Another knowlegeable person said they don't go dormant this young and = continue=20 to water during the summer.  I would guess that if it loses it's = leaves I=20 should water only if it starts to shrivel.  Any = advice?  =20 Sharon in Phoenix



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Yahoo!=20 Platinum - Watch CBS' NCAA March Madness, live=20 on your desktop! ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C2F7CE.96BC9460-- From dtopham1@juno.com Tue Apr 1 17:33:10 2003 From: dtopham1@juno.com (dtopham1@juno.com) Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 10:33:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] garden pests Message-ID: <20030401.103311.-311291.0.dtopham1@juno.com> I have some sort of fly/bug all over my tomato plants. I thought they might be white flies and have sprayed them well but, while I killed what was there more have come back. They are now all over my squash and okra. As I walk through my yard these little flies (I thought were fruit flies eating our dead tangerines) catch on my shirt and I think they are the same fly as are on my plants. They are everywhere in the air and in our yard. What can they be? I think they are hurting our tomatoes plants they are on the stems, leaves and everywhere. Maybe we had two things eating them and now we got rid of the one and these are harmless. In 5 years of gardening here I have never had anything like this. Thanks for your help. ________________________________________________________________ Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today Only $9.95 per month! Visit www.juno.com From BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu Tue Apr 1 16:53:02 2003 From: BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 09:53:02 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tempe Home & Garden Tour Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20030401095256.049e6c08@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_9621344==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed 3rd Annual Tempe Neighborhood Home and Garden Tour Sunday April 27th 10 am to 3 pm We selected 10 homes in the Tempe neighborhoods closest to downtown that showcase the diversity, uniqueness and charm of urban living. Homes were selected on the basis of street appealhomes that we have driven by and exclaimed over and wondered about the interiorhomes that have changed dramatically, been remodeled or renovated with a creative touchhomes that have wonderful landscaping and a special one-of-a-kind style. Tour Tickets $10 ($9 with a can of food to be distributed to local food banks) Meet at JayCee Park, 5th st. And Hardy Homes selected for this year's self-guided tour are within the residential neighborhoods north of Broadway and south of Rio Salado Parkway, west of Rural Road and east of Hardy. Sponsored by NewTown Community Development Corporation A 501 c 3 nonprofit organization serving all Tempe residents ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens --=====================_9621344==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

3rd Annual Tempe Neighborhood Home and Garden Tour

Sunday April 27th
10 am to 3 pm


We selected 10 homes in the Tempe neighborhoods closest to downtown that showcase the diversity, uniqueness and charm of urban living.   Homes were selected on the basis of street appealhomes that we have driven by and exclaimed over and wondered about the interiorhomes that have changed dramatically, been remodeled or renovated with a creative touchhomes that have wonderful landscaping and a special one-of-a-kind style.



Tour Tickets $10
($9 with a can of food to be distributed to local food banks)

Meet at JayCee Park, 5
th st. And Hardy



Homes selected for this year’s self-guided tour are within the residential neighborhoods north of Broadway and south of Rio Salado Parkway, west of Rural Road and east of Hardy. 


Sponsored by
NewTown Community Development Corporation
A 501 c 3 nonprofit organization serving all Tempe residents


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ  85040-8807

Phone:  (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax:  (602) 470-8092
email:  BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/
http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens

--=====================_9621344==_.ALT-- From nobelwolf@cox.net Tue Apr 1 20:28:17 2003 From: nobelwolf@cox.net (nobelwolf@cox.net) Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 13:28:17 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304012028.h31KSHZ01352@Ag.arizona.edu> hi, we just moved here from germany and i am just starting a small garden in my mother in laws backyard. they took down lots of branches from a tree and i was wondering if you knew where we could rent a shredder for a couple of hours. thank you From ali_chen@yahoo.com Tue Apr 1 21:35:01 2003 From: ali_chen@yahoo.com (Alice Chen) Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 13:35:01 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit tree problem Message-ID: <20030401213501.37075.qmail@web41214.mail.yahoo.com> --0-1645218026-1049232901=:34958 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Hi, I have a grapefruit tree that's been in the ground for about a year. It was comming along nicely with lots of flowers until last week when I noticed flowers falling off and ends of limbs turning yellow (now brown!!) and drying up. I think it may have been overwatered. Not sure, had a house sitter for a day. The ground is still damp. Anyone know why this may be happening? What do I do? Thanks for the help! Alice --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - File online, calculators, forms, and more --0-1645218026-1049232901=:34958 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

Hi,

I have a grapefruit tree that's been in the ground for about a year.  It was comming along nicely with lots of flowers until last week when I noticed flowers falling off and ends of limbs turning yellow (now brown!!) and drying up.  I think it may have been overwatered.  Not sure, had a house sitter for a day.  The ground is still damp. Anyone know why this may be happening?  What do I do?

Thanks for the help!

Alice



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Yahoo! Tax Center - File online, calculators, forms, and more --0-1645218026-1049232901=:34958-- From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Tue Apr 1 21:41:41 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 14:41:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] roses and lady bugs Message-ID: <002101c2f89b$843ffac0$ef2c0a3f@ibmbna6040> Lady bugs are a poor investment here in the low desert particularly after the temperature starts to heat up. Lady Bugs just do not like our heat, once they are released they do not stay around long but head for the high country. Take a trip up to the Four Peaks area this time of year and you will see loads of lady bugs. I have good luck keeping aphids at bay by simply washing them off with a strong stream of water. Because the aphids multiply so rapidly you must wash the roses down several times a week. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: ASUsped@aol.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, March 31, 2003 8:47 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] roses and lady bugs > > Hello everyone, > > This is the second time I buy lady bugs for my roses; the first time I >saw them dead all over the place the next day. This time they just >disappeared and I don't find them. > > I let them go at night and I watered the roses and I don't spray my >roses with anything. The only thing I could think of is that even though >there are some Aphids but maybe in small quantity to sustain the lady bugs. I >don't know what I am doing wrong with them........Mike > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Tue Apr 1 22:06:47 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 15:06:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] African Sumac dying Message-ID: <002201c2f89b$85d14920$ef2c0a3f@ibmbna6040> The African Sumac is quite susceptablle to Texas Root Rot particularly if the tree is over watered or the soil does not drain well. Symptoms of TRR are the leaves of one section of tree will very rapidly wilt and turn brown and hang on to the tree. The only positive way to confirm TRR is to have a lab examination of sections of the roots. Take a approximately 8 inch by finger size root section to U. of A., Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for an opinion. Do not wash the sample and keep it refrigerated. If necessary they will send the sample to Tuscon for a lab exam. Another possibility is that the tree has not received adequate water. Last summer was one of the hottest and driest on record consequently if the tree did not get enough water death resulted. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: ivoicespots@worldnet.att.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, March 31, 2003 8:45 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I have two African Sumac thirty year old trees in my yard. One tree has two areas >where sections of the tree have died. The >other tree is fine. Is there anything I can >do to save the tree? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From watsontl@mindspring.com Wed Apr 2 00:55:21 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 17:55:21 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] roses and lady bugs References: <002101c2f89b$843ffac0$ef2c0a3f@ibmbna6040> Message-ID: <001e01c2f8b2$8afd7a10$6621b83f@S0029317241> We have no shortage of beneficial insects that occur naturally here in Arizona (green lacewings come to mind), so there is really no need to puchase lady bugs at all. Instead, grow small, aromatic flowers such as sweet alysum, which attracts a variety of tiny wasps and flies, many of which parasitize insects we consider pests. And go easy on the pesticides, since these kill beneficial and pest alike. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Cc: Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 2:41 PM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] roses and lady bugs > Lady bugs are a poor investment here in the low desert particularly after > the temperature starts to heat up. Lady Bugs just do not like our heat, once > they are released they do not stay around long but head for the high > country. Take a trip up to the Four Peaks area this time of year and you > will see loads of lady bugs. > I have good luck keeping aphids at bay by simply washing them off with a > strong stream of water. Because the aphids multiply so rapidly you must wash > the roses down several times a week. > > Good luck. > > Rod McKusick > Master Gardener > -----Original Message----- > From: ASUsped@aol.com > To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu > Date: Monday, March 31, 2003 8:47 PM > Subject: [Arid_gardener] roses and lady bugs > > > > > > Hello everyone, > > > > This is the second time I buy lady bugs for my roses; the first time > I > >saw them dead all over the place the next day. This time they just > >disappeared and I don't find them. > > > > I let them go at night and I watered the roses and I don't spray my > >roses with anything. The only thing I could think of is that even though > >there are some Aphids but maybe in small quantity to sustain the lady bugs. > I > >don't know what I am doing wrong with them........Mike > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Arid_gardener mailing list > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From swiley11@cox.net Tue Apr 1 22:30:20 2003 From: swiley11@cox.net (swiley11@cox.net) Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 15:30:20 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304012230.h31MUKZ03079@Ag.arizona.edu> I cannot find "pigmy palms" on your website. Does it have another name? Also I have three "Little Johns" which are dying fast. All brown and dreary. Some new growth is coming on but they look pretty bad. Do you have any answers and are they also called by another name. Thank you, Sharon From Bob.Powell@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr 2 07:40:12 2003 From: Bob.Powell@worldnet.att.net (Bob.Powell@worldnet.att.net) Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 00:40:12 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304020740.h327eCZ00821@Ag.arizona.edu> We planted a 15 gallon peach tree 1 yr ago. It looks very healthy & we ahve noticed about 10 peaches forming about the size of a fifty cent piece each. Are we to take these off now to make for a healthier tree later? Also, it seems as if our trees (especially gueen palms) never dry out, though we hear they need frequent summer waterings? Also, the "wells" are constantly filled with little dark green weed that seems to grow quickly. Any suggestions?!? Thank you very much for your time & help! From azmills2001@yahoo.com Wed Apr 2 16:12:36 2003 From: azmills2001@yahoo.com (Dan Mills) Date: Wed, 02 Apr 2003 09:12:36 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] citrus trees Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20030402091201.044cc148@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_2651903==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed we just moved in to a home near tatum and bell. it has five mature citrus trees (among others) in the smallish backyard. they are 6-8 yrs old. they are way too large for the yard. we would like to move two of them to another house in the same neighborhood. can they be transplanted? how far back can they be pruned? thx, dan Dan Mills Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - File online, calculators, forms, and more --=====================_2651903==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
we just moved in to a home near tatum and bell.  it has five mature citrus trees (among others) in the smallish backyard.
they are 6-8 yrs old.  they are way too large for the yard.
we would like to move two of them to another house in the same neighborhood.

can they be transplanted?  how far back can they be pruned?

thx, dan
Dan Mills <azmills2001@yahoo.com>



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Yahoo! Tax Center - File online, calculators, forms, and more --=====================_2651903==_.ALT-- From jmead@blueriver.net Wed Apr 2 16:13:20 2003 From: jmead@blueriver.net (Jerry Mead) Date: Wed, 02 Apr 2003 09:13:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] ironwood Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20030402091258.044caef0@ag.arizona.edu> Hello from Indiana! I have a friend who has a short piece of a limb (maybe trunk?) about 6 inches across of a tree he called Ironwood. He says it came from the southwest though not sure where. This wood is very hard and dense. He had cut in on a saw with much difficulty. The finished cut looks as if it were varnished! The wood is very light in the sap, but the heartwood is dark yellowish brown with dark grain and is very beautiful. I think it would make beautiful bagpipes if you could machine it. I am most interested in identifying this wood and finding out where it grows and if it is available. In the Eastern half of the US, there is an Ironwood also called Hop Hornbeam, but I do not think this piece of wood is that. This wood he has is too dark in the heart to be Hornbeam, from what I am told. I have found a fact sheet on Desert Ironwood (Fabaceae Olneya tesota) but it does not identify what the heartwood looks like or the density. Can you help me? I would appreciate any and all help in this matter. Thank you. Sincerely, Jerry Mead Jerry Mead From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Apr 2 23:50:47 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 02 Apr 2003 23:50:47 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] ironwood Message-ID: Jerry, The wood you describe sounds like our local ironwood, Olneya tesota. The wood is hard, heavy and dense, valued for carving as well as firewood. Carvings show very dark wood with some very light sapwood. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Jerry Mead (by way of Lucy Bradley >) >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] ironwood >Date: Wed, 02 Apr 2003 09:13:20 -0700 > >Hello from Indiana! > I have a friend who has a short piece of a limb (maybe trunk?) >about 6 inches across of a tree he called Ironwood. He says it came >from the southwest though not sure where. This wood is very hard and >dense. He had cut in on a saw with much difficulty. The finished cut >looks as if it were varnished! The wood is very light in the sap, but >the heartwood is dark yellowish brown with dark grain and is very >beautiful. I think it would make beautiful bagpipes if you could >machine it. > I am most interested in identifying this wood and finding out >where it grows and if it is available. In the Eastern half of the US, >there is an Ironwood also called Hop Hornbeam, but I do not think this >piece of wood is that. This wood he has is too dark in the heart to be >Hornbeam, from what I am told. I have found a fact sheet on Desert >Ironwood (Fabaceae Olneya tesota) but it does not identify what the >heartwood looks like or the density. Can you help me? I would >appreciate any and all help in this matter. Thank you. Sincerely, >Jerry Mead >Jerry Mead > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Apr 2 23:59:21 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 02 Apr 2003 23:59:21 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] citrus trees, moving Message-ID: from Cooperative Extension bulletin "Citrus Trees in the Home Garden": The larger tree spades are probably the only satisfactory moving device currently available for moving large established citrus trees. Stress on the transplanted tree is reduced if transplanting is done during the cooler, October-to-February, period. Before moving pruning back a portion of the top branch and leaf area will maintain a better balance between roots and top. Full recovery and regrowth will generally require from several months to a year. Large quantities of water applied in a drip-line-size water basin will be helpful in reducing the transplant shock on mature trees. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Dan Mills (by way of Lucy Bradley >) >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] citrus trees >Date: Wed, 02 Apr 2003 09:12:36 -0700 > > >we just moved in to a home near tatum and bell. it has five mature citrus >trees (among others) in the smallish backyard. >they are 6-8 yrs old. they are way too large for the yard. >we would like to move two of them to another house in the same >neighborhood. > >can they be transplanted? how far back can they be pruned? > >thx, dan >Dan Mills > > > >Do you Yahoo!? >Yahoo! Tax >Center - File online, calculators, forms, and more _________________________________________________________________ Tired of spam? Get advanced junk mail protection with MSN 8. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Apr 3 00:12:31 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 03 Apr 2003 00:12:31 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] pygmy date palm, "Little John" palm Message-ID: Pygmy Date Palm is Phoenix roebelinii There is information about it in the Cooperative Extension bulletin "Arizona Landscape Palms". I have been unable to find any reference to a palm called "Little John". Do you remember where you bought it? The nursery may know the botanical name. Since we do not know what kind of a palm this is, it is hard to say what might be wrong. Check watering schedule and water extent carefully; fertilize lightly with a palm fertilizer that includes micronutrients. Watch to see if new fronds appear to be healthy. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: swiley11@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 15:30:20 -0700 (MST) > >I cannot find "pigmy palms" on your website. >Does it have another name? > >Also I have three "Little Johns" which are dying fast. All brown and >dreary. Some new growth is coming on but they look pretty bad. Do you >have any answers and are they also called by another name. > >Thank you, > >Sharon > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Apr 3 00:27:52 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 03 Apr 2003 00:27:52 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [arid-gardener] mesquite trees dying Message-ID: The trees we have seen are suffering from drought stress. Even though they are being watered, we've had three years of drought that is taking its toll on mature trees. It is distressing to see so many of these 'anchor' trees dying out of the landscape, but so far we have not identified and insect or diesease causing the problem. Linda Drew Master Gardener >Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 22:16:16 -0700 (MST) >From: ggalindo10@msn.com >Comment: I've noticed that alot of mesquite trees are drying out, even >those trees that are being watered. Last weekend while on Yuma Arizona, I >also noticed that mesquite trees are dying in there. I took a drive around >town and is amasing to see how many mesquite trees are dying. Is there >something in the air causing this disturbance? How can this be prevented? >Mesquite trees are among my favorite trees, I hate to see them die.please >advised. > > > _________________________________________________________________ STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From taddiadl@sedona.net Thu Apr 3 03:56:46 2003 From: taddiadl@sedona.net (taddiadl@sedona.net) Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 20:56:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] African Apple Ring Thorn Tree Message-ID: <1311.162.42.83.251.1049342206.squirrel@webmail.cybertrails.com> Sirs, Can you tell us anything about a tree we purchased six years ago, at the Phoenix Botanical Gardens, labeled "African Apple-Ring Thorn Tree, height 80 feet, width 80 feet?" It was an inch in diameter and 6 feet high. Now, it is about 24 feet high and 6 inches in diameter. It is a beautiful tree! We put it in the middle of an acre away from phone lines and water lines. The inconspicuous flowers have a fragrance similar to water lilies. The trunk is a light green covered with a pale powder. The powder appears to keep bugs off the tree. We would be grateful for any information. Thank you -- Larry & Donna Taddia From Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com Thu Apr 3 15:13:29 2003 From: Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com (Zelhart Alan-rpcs30) Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 08:13:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] African Apple Ring Thorn Tree Message-ID: <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B99307054620BD@az33exm25.corp.mot.com> I found lots of info on this tree by doing a google search. I found much more info with it's scientific name instead of its common name. Sounds like a nice tree. Check out the link below for resources: http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&ie=ISO-8859-1&q=%22Faidherbia+albida%22 Chat with you later, Alan -- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ----- Alan Zelhart gizmoaz@cox.net Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- Welcome to scratch-a-tag: ####### <- scratch here for your price -----Original Message----- From: taddiadl@sedona.net [mailto:taddiadl@sedona.net] Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2003 8:57 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] African Apple Ring Thorn Tree Sirs, Can you tell us anything about a tree we purchased six years ago, at the Phoenix Botanical Gardens, labeled "African Apple-Ring Thorn Tree, height 80 feet, width 80 feet?" It was an inch in diameter and 6 feet high. Now, it is about 24 feet high and 6 inches in diameter. It is a beautiful tree! We put it in the middle of an acre away from phone lines and water lines. The inconspicuous flowers have a fragrance similar to water lilies. The trunk is a light green covered with a pale powder. The powder appears to keep bugs off the tree. We would be grateful for any information. Thank you -- Larry & Donna Taddia _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From mldyge@cox.net Thu Apr 3 16:01:15 2003 From: mldyge@cox.net (mldyge@cox.net) Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 09:01:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304031601.h33G1Fe03131@Ag.arizona.edu> Is it ok to plant grape tomatoes started from seed with grape vines. I have plenty of room near them. Thank-you in advance for any info you can give. Melody From s2@auroranow.org Fri Apr 4 16:11:47 2003 From: s2@auroranow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Fri, 04 Apr 2003 09:11:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] monstrous yellowing References: <200304031601.h33G1Fe03131@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3E8DAEC3.CF32BB97@auroranow.org> I have a 30" cereus (monstrous) that I planted last spring that is yellowing. I have all my cacti on a separate drip line and all the other cacti are doing fine, and I've checked that it is, indeed, getting water, but perhaps not enough? Or would yellowing indicate over watering? Just not sure if I should give it a good soaking or plug one of the emitters. Suggestions? -- Sherryl R. Stalinski, M.A. Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation - http://www.auroranow.org Helping human systems create better futures. http://www.IntegrityIncubator.com A program of Aurora Now helping new and young companies succeed Tucson Office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 ===================================================== "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller From maryleeaz4@msn.com Fri Apr 4 05:47:28 2003 From: maryleeaz4@msn.com (maryleeaz4@msn.com) Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 22:47:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304040547.h345k6Rv013703@Ag.arizona.edu> What is the best way to plant a bougainvillaea? From larson_keagy@yahoo.com Fri Apr 4 17:10:38 2003 From: larson_keagy@yahoo.com (larson_keagy@yahoo.com) Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2003 10:10:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304041710.h34HAcmo011457@Ag.arizona.edu> I planted a 15 gallon grapefruit tree in March of 2002. It struggled all summer - as did the five other new fruit trees we planted. This spring everything is beautiful except my poor grapefruit. It got thousands of buds/flowers, and probably fewer than 50 leaves on the whole tree. I;ve picked off lots of buds in hopes leaves would form. I don't see more coming yet. the flowers are dying away now. I am picking off the small fruits forming from the buds. Will my leaves emerge? What can I do? Too much water, too little water? I don't know how to measure it well. Fertilize? Help. Thanks much. I don't want to lose it. Beth Larson-Keagy From robmac@Ag.arizona.edu Fri Apr 4 17:26:16 2003 From: robmac@Ag.arizona.edu (Robert MacArthur) Date: Fri, 04 Apr 2003 10:26:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fw: April 1, 2003 - US Drought Monitor.htm Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20030404102555.01d27458@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_11147158==_.REL Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="=====================_11147158==_.ALT" --=====================_11147158==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed >USDA drought monitor - http://www.drought.unl.edu/dm/index.html > > >---------- >14632987.jpg > >The data cutoff for Drought Monitor maps is Tuesday at 8 a.m. Eastern >Standard Time. The maps, which are based on analysis of the data, are >released each Thursday at 8:30 a.m. Eastern Time. > > >146329c6.jpg > >Click on the icons below for animated maps. > >14632b2d.jpg >14632b3d.jpg >6 weeks.....12 weeks > >---------- >The drought indicators that are synthesized into the Drought Monitor map >are on this website, under >Forecasts and >Current Conditions. >This summary map is based on a multi-index >drought >classification scheme. >For local details and impacts, please contact your >State Climatologist or >Regional Climate Center. >Other Drought >Monitoring Links >Contact People > >Click to see the public information statement regarding >change to >U.S. Drought Monitor impact categories effective Thursday, February 20, 2003. > >National Drought Summary -- April 1, 2003 > >The Plains, Midwest, and Great Lakes: A major storm crossed the Midwest on >March 27-28, dumping more than a foot of snow in northern parts of >Minnesota, Wisconsin, and Michigan, and over an inch of rain elsewhere in >the upper Midwest. Additional rain and snow fell on the 31st. The moisture >resulted in the elimination of D1 drought from southern Minnesota, central >and northern Wisconsin, and Michigan's Upper Peninsula. Precipitation >amounts were less to the west and south, and severe drought remained from >northern Missouri and southern Iowa into Michigan as well as across the >Plains from northern Kansas to western South Dakota. D0 dryness developed >in southeastern Missouri and across northern Arkansas, where March >rainfall was less than 50% of normal. D0 dryness expanded eastward along >the Oklahoma-Texas border, where 60-day rainfall has been less than 40% of >normal. The recent dry weather has caused an outbreak of wildfires across >the south-central United States. > >The Rockies and Far West: Although there were no major storms comparable >to that affecting Colorado and Wyoming in mid-March, a number of weather >systems did bring significant rain and snow to the Rockies, northern Great >Basin, and Pacific Northwest. Liquid equivalents exceeded 1 inch over much >of northern Wyoming, western and northern Idaho, western Oregon, and parts >of western Montana. With snow water content near or above normal across >northwestern Wyoming, D2 conditions improved to D1, and D4 and D3 areas to >the south and east receded. Drought extent also diminished slightly in >Oregon, Idaho, and Montana. In contrast, continuing dry weather in >south-central California resulted in expansion of D0 dryness to the coast >south of San Francisco. > >The Northeast and New England: A coastal low pressure area brought rain >and snow to the Northeast on March 30-31, with liquid amounts reaching >over an inch in parts of northern New England. The resulting moisture >caused a shrinkage of the D0 and D1 areas in northern New England. > >Hawaii: Many parts of Oahu and Maui picked up over an inch of rain this >week, but this was not enough to significantly affect the areas of D0 and >D1 drought. Lesser amounts left drought intact on the Big Island. > >Puerto Rico: Heavy rain exceeding 2 inches fell over central and southern >parts of the island this week, resulting in the D0 area retreating to >northern and eastern areas. > >Alaska: Light to moderate precipitation amounts failed to end the dryness >across southern Alaska. March precipitation in Anchorage was around >one-half of normal and snowfall since January 1 has been one-third of normal. > >Looking Ahead: Weather features to watch in the next 10-day period through >April 12 which may affect areas experiencing dryness or drought include: >Over the next 5 days (April 3-7): 1) a couple of low pressure systems >bringing widespread precipitation to the West, Plains and eastern United >States, with over 0.5 inches in the northern Plains and over 1 inch for >the Great Lakes area and Mississippi Valley; 2) unfavorably dry and warm >weather for the southern Plains, including much of Texas and Oklahoma. For >the 6-10 day period (April 8-12): expect a return to mostly dry weather >across the northern Plains but above-normal rainfall in the southern Plains. > >Author: Douglas Le Comte, Climate >Prediction Center, NWS/NOAA > > >---------- >Monitor | >About Us | >Forecasts | >Current Conditions >| Archive | >What's New | >Contact | >Links Robert MacArthur 218 Forbes University of Arizona Tucson, Az. 85721 520 - 621-2489 --=====================_11147158==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
USDA drought monitor  - http://www.drought.unl.edu/dm/index.html



 

3D"14632987.jpg"

The data cutoff for Drought Monitor maps is Tuesday at 8 a.m. Eastern Standard Time. The maps, which are based on analysis of the data, are released each Thursday at 8:30 a.m. Eastern Time.


 

Click on the icons below for animated maps.

 <= img src=3D"cid:5.1.0.14.2.20030404102555.01d27458@ag.arizona.edu.7" width=3D= 70 height=3D37 alt=3D"14632b3d.jpg">
6 weeks.....12 weeks

The drought indicators that are synthesized into the Drought Monitor map are on this website, under Forecasts and Current Conditions.
This summary map is based on a multi-index = drought classification scheme.
For local details and impacts, please contact your State Climatologist or Regional Climate= Center.
Other Drought= Monitoring Links
Contact= People

Click to see the public information statement regarding change= to U.S. Drought Monitor impact categories effective Thursday, February= 20, 2003.

National Drought Summary -- April 1, 2003

The Plains, Midwest, and Great Lakes: A major storm crossed the= Midwest on March 27-28, dumping more than a foot of snow in northern parts= of Minnesota, Wisconsin, and Michigan, and over an inch of rain elsewhere= in the upper Midwest. Additional rain and snow fell on the 31st.= The moisture resulted in the elimination of D1 drought from southern= Minnesota, central and northern Wisconsin, and Michigan's Upper Peninsula.= Precipitation amounts were less to the west and south, and severe drought= remained from northern Missouri and southern Iowa into Michigan as well as= across the Plains from northern Kansas to western South Dakota. D0 dryness= developed in southeastern Missouri and across northern Arkansas, where= March rainfall was less than 50% of normal. D0 dryness expanded eastward= along the Oklahoma-Texas border, where 60-day rainfall has been less than= 40% of normal. The recent dry weather has caused an outbreak of wildfires= across the south-central United States.

The Rockies and Far West: Although there were no major storms= comparable to that affecting Colorado and Wyoming in mid-March, a number of= weather systems did bring significant rain and snow to the Rockies,= northern Great Basin, and Pacific Northwest. Liquid equivalents exceeded 1= inch over much of northern Wyoming, western and northern Idaho, western= Oregon, and parts of western Montana. With snow water content near or above= normal across northwestern Wyoming, D2 conditions improved to D1, and D4= and D3 areas to the south and east receded. Drought extent also diminished= slightly in Oregon, Idaho, and Montana. In contrast, continuing dry weather= in south-central California resulted in expansion of D0 dryness to the= coast south of San Francisco.

The Northeast and New England: A coastal low pressure area brought= rain and snow to the Northeast on March 30-31, with liquid amounts reaching= over an inch in parts of northern New England. The resulting moisture= caused a shrinkage of the D0 and D1 areas in northern New England.

Hawaii: Many parts of Oahu and Maui picked up over an inch of rain= this week, but this was not enough to significantly affect the areas of D0= and D1 drought. Lesser amounts left drought intact on the Big Island.=

Puerto Rico: Heavy rain exceeding 2 inches fell over central and= southern parts of the island this week, resulting in the D0 area retreating= to northern and eastern areas.

Alaska: Light to moderate precipitation amounts failed to end the= dryness across southern Alaska. March precipitation in Anchorage was around= one-half of normal and snowfall since January 1 has been one-third of= normal.

Looking Ahead: Weather features to watch in the next 10-day= period through April 12 which may affect areas experiencing dryness or= drought include: Over the next 5 days (April 3-7): 1) a couple of low= pressure systems bringing widespread precipitation to the West, Plains and= eastern United States, with over 0.5 inches in the northern Plains and over= 1 inch for the Great Lakes area and Mississippi Valley; 2) unfavorably dry= and warm weather for the southern Plains, including much of Texas and= Oklahoma. For the 6-10 day period (April 8-12): expect a return to mostly= dry weather across the northern Plains but above-normal rainfall in the= southern Plains.

Author: Douglas Le Comte,= Climate Prediction Center, NWS/NOAA


Monitor= | About= Us | Forecasts<= /a> | Current= Conditions | Archive= | What=92s= New | Conta= ct | Links
Robert MacArthur
218 Forbes
University of Arizona
Tucson, Az. 85721
520 - 621-2489


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name="14632b3d.jpg"; x-mac-type="4A504547"; x-mac-creator="4A565752" Content-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20030404102555.01d27458@ag.arizona.edu.7> Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 Content-Disposition: inline; filename="14632b3d.jpg" /9j/4AAQSkZJRgABAQAAAQABAAD/2wBDAAEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEB AQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQH/2wBDAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEB AQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQH/wAARCAAlAEYDASIA AhEBAxEB/8QAHwAAAQUBAQEBAQEAAAAAAAAAAAECAwQFBgcICQoL/8QAtRAAAgEDAwIEAwUFBAQA AAF9AQIDAAQRBRIhMUEGE1FhByJxFDKBkaEII0KxwRVS0fAkM2JyggkKFhcYGRolJicoKSo0NTY3 ODk6Q0RFRkdISUpTVFVWV1hZWmNkZWZnaGlqc3R1dnd4eXqDhIWGh4iJipKTlJWWl5iZmqKjpKWm p6ipqrKztLW2t7i5usLDxMXGx8jJytLT1NXW19jZ2uHi4+Tl5ufo6erx8vP09fb3+Pn6/8QAHwEA AwEBAQEBAQEBAQAAAAAAAAECAwQFBgcICQoL/8QAtREAAgECBAQDBAcFBAQAAQJ3AAECAxEEBSEx BhJBUQdhcRMiMoEIFEKRobHBCSMzUvAVYnLRChYkNOEl8RcYGRomJygpKjU2Nzg5OkNERUZHSElK U1RVVldYWVpjZGVmZ2hpanN0dXZ3eHl6goOEhYaHiImKkpOUlZaXmJmaoqOkpaanqKmqsrO0tba3 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Do you (1) wait till the stems fall over, or (2) = till they=20 start to turn brown at the tips, then push over the stems and wait a few = weeks?
 
jk
------=_NextPart_000_0029_01C2FABD.9B7CB740-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Apr 5 14:22:45 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 05 Apr 2003 14:22:45 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] when are onions ready to pick Message-ID: Onions ccan be harvested any time as green onions. 1 - Onions are fully mature when their tops have fallen over. After pulling from the ground, allow the onions to dry; clip the roots and cut the tops back to one inch. Store onions in hanging mesh bags or old nylon stockings -- place an onion in the bag and tie a knot or put a plastic tie between onions to keep the separated. The onions that do well here are sweet onions and will store for a shorter time that pungent onions. If onions still have a thick green stem when you harvest, eat immediately or prepare and freeze -- they won't store well. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Jonathan Kandell" >Reply-To: "Jonathan Kandell" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] when are onions ready to pick >Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2003 15:19:38 -0700 > >Do you (1) wait till the stems fall over, or (2) till they start to turn >brown at the tips, then push over the stems and wait a few weeks? > >jk _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail From eberglarry@hotmail.com Sat Apr 5 00:12:24 2003 From: eberglarry@hotmail.com (Larry) Date: Fri, 04 Apr 2003 17:12:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] arid zone plants Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20030404171209.035716f8@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_35468721==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed For the last few years, I've been trying to develop my 3 acres into a less hostile place for people, plants and animals. My dogs and goats both like the fan palms ( about 500 of them in the ground). It is a real chore to keep the goats from destroying the trees before they mature. The most luck I have here is with the mesquites, sweet acacias and the poplars. I currently have about 600 poplar cuttings ready to pot for the summer and plant in the late fall to early winter. These all started from 3 trees a few years ago. I would like to get the hibiscus and cape honeysuckle going too, but don't know when is the best time to take cuttings. Ground water is at about 30-35 feet. . . I'm within 2 miles of the lower Colorado River. Typically there are at least 60 days of 120+ degree heat days here and only around 30-35 freezing days. Also, do you have any suggestions for the Palo Verde. . . the volunteers do well until transplanted or eaten by bugs. . . those grown from seed in pots have trouble after a few months and mostly wither. . . my success rate with Palo Verde species is around 20%. they seem to have a very temperamental water tolerance threshold. . . a little to much and the tips rot, with to little, the brown and die. Can you offer any suggestions. --- Lar "Larry" --=====================_35468721==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" For the last few years, I've been trying to develop my 3 acres into a less hostile place for people, plants and animals. My dogs and goats both like the fan palms ( about 500 of them in the ground). It is a real chore to keep the goats from destroying the trees before they mature. The most luck I have here is with the mesquites, sweet acacias and the poplars. I currently have about 600 poplar cuttings ready to pot for the summer and plant in the late fall to early winter. These all started from 3 trees a few years ago.
 
I would like to get the hibiscus and cape honeysuckle going too, but don't know when is the best time to take cuttings.
 
Ground water is at about 30-35 feet. . . I'm within 2 miles of the lower Colorado River. Typically there are at least 60 days of 120+ degree heat days here and only around 30-35 freezing days.
 
Also, do you have any suggestions for the Palo Verde. . . the volunteers do well until transplanted or eaten by bugs. . . those grown from seed in pots have trouble after a few months and mostly wither. . . my success rate with Palo Verde species is around 20%. they seem to have a very temperamental water tolerance threshold. . . a little to much and the tips rot, with to little, the brown and die.
 
Can you offer any suggestions.
 
---
Lar
"Larry" <eberglarry@hotmail.com> --=====================_35468721==_.ALT-- From larson_keagy@yahoo.com Sat Apr 5 15:51:43 2003 From: larson_keagy@yahoo.com (elizabeth larson) Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2003 07:51:43 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] grapefruit tree question Message-ID: <20030405155143.68127.qmail@web21110.mail.yahoo.com> --0-617799813-1049557903=:67175 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I bought and planted a 15 gallon pink grapefruit tree last March. I live in Tempe. IIt struggled through the hot summer as the other new fruit trees I bought also struggled (plum, orange, fig, and pomegranite). This spring the grapefruit got thousands of blooms, lost all of its old leaves, and grew only about 50 new leaves. Now, its blooms are dying. Will more leaves begin to emerge? That's what I'm hoping for. I don't see any except for the few that grew about a month ago. What can I do? How long can this tree sustain itself with so few leaves in an Arizona summer? Thanks much. Beth Larson --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - File online, calculators, forms, and more --0-617799813-1049557903=:67175 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
I bought and planted a 15 gallon pink grapefruit tree last March.  I live in Tempe.  IIt struggled through the hot summer as the other new fruit trees I bought also struggled (plum, orange, fig, and pomegranite).
 
This spring the grapefruit got thousands of blooms, lost all of its old leaves, and grew only about 50 new leaves.  Now, its blooms are dying.  Will more leaves begin to emerge?  That's what I'm hoping for.  I don't see any except for the few that grew about a month ago.  What can I do?  How long can this tree sustain itself with so few leaves in an Arizona summer?  Thanks much.
 
Beth Larson



Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Tax Center - File online, calculators, forms, and more --0-617799813-1049557903=:67175-- From LEASUREG@aol.com Sat Apr 5 17:15:29 2003 From: LEASUREG@aol.com (LEASUREG@aol.com) Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2003 12:15:29 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Santa Ana Grass Message-ID: --part1_c3.3268780f.2bc06931_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Where can I find Santa Ana Grass seeds? I need to locate a distributor. I first heard of this grass on the New Mexico State University televised extension show. I tried writing my local extension. No response. I wrote the NMSU extension program. No response. I checked my local nurseries. No response. Thank you Mrs. Leasure --part1_c3.3268780f.2bc06931_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Where can I find Santa An= a Grass seeds?  I need to locate a distributor.  

I first heard of this grass on the New Mexico State University televised= extension show.  I tried writing my local extension.  No response= .  I wrote the NMSU extension program.  No response.  I check= ed my local nurseries.  No response.  Thank you

Mrs. Leasure
--part1_c3.3268780f.2bc06931_boundary-- From dj.swartz@verizon.net Sat Apr 5 17:38:20 2003 From: dj.swartz@verizon.net (dj.swartz@verizon.net) Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2003 10:38:20 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304051738.h35HcJXd029805@Ag.arizona.edu> The wind just broke my beautiful Bougainvillea shrub about 12 to 15 feet tall. The break is at the base, but didn't completely seperate the trunk. Looking at the exposed trunk break it was all dry as if it had broken before. Is there anyway to heal the break ? I would like to prevent the loss of the shrub. I have severly trimmed back the shrub and tied it up. Is there anything that can be done . Thanks From Jonathan Kandell" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C2FB66.A3C18580 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable My community garden recently decided to put in a bat-house. The guy = claimed the bats would catch mosquitos, and vine borers and other nasty = night insects. I raised the concern they might also catch the predators = I'd worked so hard to stabilize over several years... Anyone have any = experience with bats and vegetable gardens? I do know bat guano works = great, but was wondering about the bats themselves. jk ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C2FB66.A3C18580 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
My community garden recently decided to put in a = bat-house. The guy claimed the bats would catch mosquitos, and vine = borers and=20 other nasty night insects.  I raised the concern they might also = catch the=20 predators I'd worked so hard to stabilize over several = years...  =20 Anyone have any experience with bats and vegetable gardens?  I do = know bat=20 guano works great, but was wondering about the bats = themselves.
 
jk
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C2FB66.A3C18580-- From chuck42@att.net Sat Apr 5 20:42:22 2003 From: chuck42@att.net (chuck42@att.net) Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2003 13:42:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304052042.h35KgLXd020110@Ag.arizona.edu> We live in the Phoenix area and just planted 2 new, pine trees . We want to install a dripper type of irrigation system, but do not know what size to use. Can you please give us some advice? Thanks, Chuck Halm From tadkins1@sc.rr.com Sat Apr 5 23:54:05 2003 From: tadkins1@sc.rr.com (Kathy Adkins) Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2003 18:54:05 -0500 Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: <001501c2fbce$a4771ea0$0200a8c0@sc.rr.com> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C2FBA4.BB7F84E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable could you tell me how to go about starting new cutting from a Lady Bank = Rose ------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C2FBA4.BB7F84E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
could you tell me how to go about = starting new=20 cutting from a Lady Bank Rose
------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C2FBA4.BB7F84E0-- From tedaxland@aol.com Sun Apr 6 13:41:49 2003 From: tedaxland@aol.com (tedaxland@aol.com) Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2003 06:41:49 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304061341.h36DfmXd006119@Ag.arizona.edu> Our Phoenix Agricultural Club is interested in a tour, including Rose Production,harvesting, production etc. We would like your inputs as to best time this coming fall or winter. Also need a person to contact to arrange. We would use Motor Coach, with about 50 on board. Thank you for your assistance. Ted Axland, Executive Director From mhills@seedsolutions.com Sun Apr 6 15:28:50 2003 From: mhills@seedsolutions.com (mhills@seedsolutions.com) Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2003 08:28:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304061528.h36FSnXd014024@Ag.arizona.edu> Liliac - Syringia vulgaris I have heard that there is a variety of Lilac that is more heat tolerant and adapted to the low desert. Supposed to have less of a chilling requirement than the traditioanl varieties grown in other parts of the country. Does anyone on the List have personal experience with this, and perhaps know where a plant can be obtained in the Phoenix area? Our mother misses this plant from her Philadelphia childhood. Thank you, Mike Hills Master Gardener, Maricopa County From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Sun Apr 6 18:31:55 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2003 11:31:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit tree loosing leaves Message-ID: <000801c2fc6a$ce937b60$0e1d0a3f@ibmbna6040> Beth, Citrus trees do not typically bear fruit until they are 4 to 5 years old. The tree will blossom and automatically shed the small fruit until the tree is ready to bear the fruit. Do not fertilize until the tree has been in the ground one year. I suspect that the leaf drop is due to improper irrigation. The following site will tell you how to water properly: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf A bulletin titled CITRUS IN THE HOME GARDEN is available from U. of A., Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for $1.00 and has all the info one needs to care for citrus. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: larson_keagy@yahoo.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Friday, April 04, 2003 5:22 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I planted a 15 gallon grapefruit tree in March of 2002. It struggled all summer - as did the five other new fruit trees we planted. This spring everything is beautiful except my poor grapefruit. It got thousands of buds/flowers, and probably fewer than 50 leaves on the whole tree. I;ve picked off lots of buds in hopes leaves would form. I don't see more coming yet. the flowers are dying away now. I am picking off the small fruits forming from the buds. Will my leaves emerge? What can I do? Too much water, too little water? I don't know how to measure it well. Fertilize? Help. Thanks much. I don't want to lose it. Beth Larson-Keagy > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From mathwiz85015@yahoo.com Sun Apr 6 18:56:27 2003 From: mathwiz85015@yahoo.com (mathwiz85015@yahoo.com) Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2003 11:56:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304061856.h36IuQXd003630@Ag.arizona.edu> I have planted two almond trees and need to know about harvesting almonds. When are they ready to pick? What do they look like when they are ready to pick? Do the almonds need to be dried? Where can I learn all about growing almond trees in Maricopa Country? From BHelmstetter@msn.com Sun Apr 6 19:32:50 2003 From: BHelmstetter@msn.com (Barbara Helmstetter) Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2003 12:32:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Soil and trees Message-ID: ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C2FC38.A37DE460 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable We are looking for information on soil type and trees (fruit and nut), an= d other domestic plants that will do well in the area of the San Pedro Va= lley north of Sierra Vista. Whatever you can tell us would be helpful. Thank you. ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C2FC38.A37DE460 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
We are looking= for information on soil type and trees (fruit and nut), and other domest= ic plants that will do well in the area of the San Pedro Valley north of = Sierra Vista.  Whatever you can tell us would be helpful.
Thank you.

------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C2FC38.A37DE460-- From popsy97@yahoo.com Sun Apr 6 20:14:05 2003 From: popsy97@yahoo.com (Judy Braden) Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2003 13:14:05 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200304061528.h36FSnXd014024@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20030406201405.75313.qmail@web11003.mail.yahoo.com> I've tried more than once to raise lilacs. Even the ones that take less chill still seem to not get enough here to put them in dormancy. Without the dormancy they won't bloom. My experience has been that they will bloom the first year, maybe a little the second year. After that, they grow foliage but no bloom. Others may have had different experience, but mine was somewhat frustrating. If you miss the look of lilac, try growing some buddleia. If you miss the scent, try some Abelia grandiflora, it has a bit of lilac scent in late summer. --- mhills@seedsolutions.com wrote: > Liliac - Syringia vulgaris > I have heard that there is a variety of Lilac that > is more heat tolerant and adapted to the low desert. > Supposed to have less of a chilling requirement > than the traditioanl varieties grown in other parts > of the country. Does anyone on the List have > personal experience with this, and perhaps know > where a plant can be obtained in the Phoenix area? > Our mother misses this plant from her Philadelphia > childhood. > > Thank you, > Mike Hills > Master Gardener, Maricopa County > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - File online, calculators, forms, and more http://tax.yahoo.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Apr 7 02:07:27 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2003 02:07:27 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] almond trees Message-ID: Here is some information from 2 years ago: According to an old Extension publication that is out of print (#8101 dtd 5/86) almonds can be used in the local home yard landscape for ornamental purposes, but are not considered a producer at this elevation. The high chilling requirement (winter chill hours) are more suitable for a 3,500 foot elevation range. Also, most common almond varieties require cross-pollination to produce a nut crop. At the time of its writing, a self-fertile variety called All-In-One had been recently introduced. If you proceed, watch for piercing type insects such as stink bugs and leaf-footed plant bugs to attack nuts. Linda Guy Master Gardener ------------------------------ Below are harvesting recommendations from Dr. Mike Kilby, Fruit, Nut and Vine Specialist for the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension. As far as care for the tree, treat them in the same way you would a deciduous fruit tree. See the tips in the Arizona Master Gardener Manual on Fruit tree Care: Good Luck Lucy Bradley >Subject: Re: Harvesting Almonds > >You can harvest almonds as soon as the hulls >start to split and they can still be on the tree. You can harvest at this >stage by knocking the nuts from the tree and separating the nuts from the >hulls. In fact you want to knock the nuts from the tree so they will dry. > >From: mathwiz85015@yahoo.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2003 11:56:27 -0700 (MST) > >I have planted two almond trees and need to know about harvesting almonds. >When are they ready to pick? >What do they look like when they are ready to pick? Do the almonds need to >be dried? > >Where can I learn all about growing almond trees in Maricopa Country? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Apr 7 02:17:57 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2003 02:17:57 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] prpagating Rosa banksiae Message-ID: For detailed information, check your local library for the American Horticultural Society's book, "Plant Propagation". Pages 112-113 have detailed, illustrated steps for propagating the Lady Bank's rose. Basically you will want to try softwood cuttings. In early to midsummer, choose healthy shoots of the current season's growth. Rmove by cutting above a node with pruners. Immediately place in a plastic bag to keep fresh and moist. Create internodal cuttings, immerse in fungicidal solution, dip base in rooting hormone and insert cuttings in sterile soil mix. Keep warm and moist until rooted. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Kathy Adkins" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) >Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2003 18:54:05 -0500 > >could you tell me how to go about starting new cutting from a Lady Bank >Rose _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Apr 7 02:31:19 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2003 02:31:19 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] bats good or bad? Message-ID: Good luck with the bat house. Bats consume night-flying insects, such as mosquitoes and moths. Most of your "good guys" such as lacewings and ladybugs, predatory wasps are active during the day. I have not heard of any problem with bats eating good guys. Merlin D. Tuttle's book, "America's Neighborhood Bats", discusses bat's diet of mosquitoes and various agricultural pests. I have (so far) been unsuccessful in convincing bats in Tucson to use a bat house. The ones in my neighborhood favor the huge old eucalyptus trees for roosts -- and also the UA football stadium and under the Pantano bridge. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Jonathan Kandell" >Reply-To: "Jonathan Kandell" >To: , "Organic Gardenling List" > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] bats good or bad? >Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2003 11:29:37 -0700 > >My community garden recently decided to put in a bat-house. The guy claimed >the bats would catch mosquitos, and vine borers and other nasty night >insects. I raised the concern they might also catch the predators I'd >worked so hard to stabilize over several years... Anyone have any >experience with bats and vegetable gardens? I do know bat guano works >great, but was wondering about the bats themselves. > >jk _________________________________________________________________ Tired of spam? Get advanced junk mail protection with MSN 8. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Apr 7 02:45:33 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2003 02:45:33 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Santa Ana Grass Message-ID: Good question. From what I've been able to find, Santa Ana is normally planted as sod and seed does not seem to be available. The sterile hybrid bermudas (like SAnta Ana) are popualr because they do not cause allergies, but they also cannot produce viable seed. Other bermudas (like Sahara) do produce viable seed and can be grown from seed, but also cause allergies in some people. Here is some information from earlier discussions: There are several varieties of seeded bermudagrasses. Santa Ana is not one of them. Sahara is one example of seeded Bermuda that is drought tolerant and denser and lower growing than common Bermuda. If you can't find suitable seeded bermudagrasses locally, try a web search or look at www.bermudagrass.com. Santa Ana is a vigorous, sterile berbudagrass hybrid. If it is a true hybrid, there was seed to get it started, but that seed would have been produced by crossing two different varieties, resulting in a third (Santa Ana in this case). Because the Santa Ana is bred to be a sterile hybrid, it can't produce a next generation on its own, so you would need the original grasses that were crossed in the first place. Nothing special here (except for the sterility part) - this is how we get hybrid tomatoes, petunias, beets, etc. >From: LEASUREG@aol.com >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Santa Ana Grass >Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2003 12:15:29 EST > >Where can I find Santa Ana Grass seeds? I need to locate a distributor. > >I first heard of this grass on the New Mexico State University televised >extension show. I tried writing my local extension. No response. I wrote >the NMSU extension program. No response. I checked my local nurseries. >No >response. Thank you > >Mrs. Leasure _________________________________________________________________ Help STOP SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com Mon Apr 7 03:36:47 2003 From: Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com (Zelhart Alan-rpcs30) Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2003 20:36:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rose Cuttings Message-ID: <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B993070477EBA1@az33exm25.corp.mot.com> I posted this from home, but some how it never made it through. Below is an excellent link to a site that shows you how to start cuttings. It has the procedure step by step with lots of photo's to boot. http://www.rdrop.com/~paul/hulse.html I have used this procedure several times with excellent results. Good luck! Chat with you later... Alan ----- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ----- Alan Zelhart gizmoaz@cox.net Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- George Orwell was an optimist -----Original Message----- From: Kathy Adkins To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Sent: 4/5/03 4:54 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) could you tell me how to go about starting new cutting from a Lady Bank Rose From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Apr 7 13:16:11 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2003 13:16:11 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Soil and trees Message-ID: For information on fruit & nut trees suitable for your area: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/fruit/planting.html#varieties And check with Cooperative Extension Offices near you: http://cals.arizona.edu/cochise Cochise County Cooperative Extension 450 S. Haskell Avenue Willcox, AZ 85643-2790 Phone: (520) 384-3594 Fax: (520) 384-3681 Satellite Office Location 1140 N. Colombo Sierra Vista, AZ 85635 Phone: (520) 458-8278 ext 2141 Fax: (520) 458-5823 or 626-2492 (Tucson) Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Barbara Helmstetter" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Soil and trees >Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2003 12:32:50 -0700 > >We are looking for information on soil type and trees (fruit and nut), and >other domestic plants that will do well in the area of the San Pedro Valley >north of Sierra Vista. Whatever you can tell us would be helpful. >Thank you. _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From GardenGuy@gardenerscorner.com Sun Apr 6 20:08:29 2003 From: GardenGuy@gardenerscorner.com (GardenerGuy) Date: Sun, 06 Apr 2003 13:08:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) References: <001501c2fbce$a4771ea0$0200a8c0@sc.rr.com> Message-ID: <3E90893D.75DC1DED@gardenerscorner.com> --------------78403916534B845397529B98 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Kathy, Check out the following website for starting roses from cuttings. I've started several this way, and it seems to work very well. It includes step by step pictures and everything! :) http://www.rdrop.com/~paul/hulse.html -- Chat with you later... Alan ----- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ----- Alan Zelhart gizmoaz@cox.net Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- "I owe, I owe, it's off to work I go""" Kathy Adkins wrote: > could you tell me how to go about starting new cutting from a Lady > Bank Rose --------------78403916534B845397529B98 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Kathy,

Check out the following website for starting roses from cuttings.  I've started several this way, and it seems to work very well.  It includes step by step pictures and everything! :)

http://www.rdrop.com/~paul/hulse.html

--
Chat with you later...
Alan
-----
Chandler, Arizona        Sunset Zone: 13
http://www.GardenersCorner.com
-----
Alan Zelhart
gizmoaz@cox.net
Gardens Co-listowner
http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html
-----
 "I owe, I owe, it's off to work I go"""

Kathy Adkins wrote:

could you tell me how to go about starting new cutting from a Lady Bank Rose

 
 
  --------------78403916534B845397529B98-- From stevendrew@mindspring.com Sun Apr 6 23:11:10 2003 From: stevendrew@mindspring.com (Steven C. Drew) Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2003 16:11:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: santa anna Message-ID: <002201c2fc91$d13e6560$c1c856d1@Global> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001F_01C2FC57.233008A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Santa Anna is a Hybrid Bermuda Grass that is vegetatively propagated = with stolons, plugs or sod. It does not produce a seed. Santa Anna was very popular back in the '80's because it was supposed to = be able to be mowed OK with a rotary mower. The problem with Santa Anna = Tiffgreen is that it thatches up so much, and as a result it is no = longer promoted. I do not know if you can ever buy it anymore. If you want a seeded variety try Princess 77. But note that all seeded = Bermuda grasses produce pollen. I personally prefer and recommend Mid Iron also called EZ Turf. Easy to = care for, short dormant period. Plant from Stolons, sod or plugs. Steve Drew ------=_NextPart_000_001F_01C2FC57.233008A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Santa Anna is a Hybrid Bermuda Grass = that is=20 vegetatively propagated with stolons, plugs or sod. It does not produce = a=20 seed.
 
Santa Anna was very popular back in the = '80's=20 because it was supposed to be able to be mowed OK with a rotary mower. = The=20 problem with Santa Anna Tiffgreen is that it thatches up so much, and as = a=20 result it is no longer promoted. I do not know if you can ever buy it=20 anymore.
 
If you want a seeded variety try = Princess 77. But=20 note that all seeded Bermuda grasses produce pollen.
 
I personally prefer and recommend Mid = Iron also=20 called EZ Turf. Easy to care for, short dormant period. Plant from = Stolons, sod=20 or plugs.
 
Steve Drew
 
 
------=_NextPart_000_001F_01C2FC57.233008A0-- From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Sun Apr 6 23:43:29 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2003 16:43:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Peach tree care Message-ID: <001301c2fc96$699101c0$4b1d0a3f@ibmbna6040> Your recently planted peach tree will autumatically drop the fruit that has set until such time as they are ready to produce fruit. You can keep down most of the weeds around your queen palms by applying a 3 to 4 inch mulch around the tree. I don't quite understand what you mean by " the queen palms never dry out" unless you are watering every two or three days which you shouldn't be doing. During the summer the queens should be deep watered every 7 to10 days. Excellent info on landscape watering is available in a free booklet titled LANDSCAPE WATERING BY THE NUMBERS from most nurseries. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: Bob.Powell@worldnet.att.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Wednesday, April 02, 2003 8:13 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >We planted a 15 gallon peach tree 1 yr ago. It looks very healthy & we ahve noticed about 10 peaches forming about the size of a fifty cent piece each. Are we to take these off now to make for a healthier tree later? > >Also, it seems as if our trees (especially gueen palms) never dry out, though we hear they need frequent summer waterings? Also, the "wells" are constantly filled with little dark green weed that seems to grow quickly. Any suggestions?!? > >Thank you very much for your time & help! > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Sun Apr 6 23:47:59 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2003 16:47:59 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit tree problem Message-ID: <002401c2fc96$f56c3ac0$4b1d0a3f@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01C2FC5C.47E6E420 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Alice, Sounds like you may have over watered your grapefruit tree. Check out this site for info on watering citrus: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: Alice Chen To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 3:41 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit tree problem Hi, I have a grapefruit tree that's been in the ground for about a year. = It was comming along nicely with lots of flowers until last week when I = noticed flowers falling off and ends of limbs turning yellow (now = brown!!) and drying up. I think it may have been overwatered. Not = sure, had a house sitter for a day. The ground is still damp. Anyone = know why this may be happening? What do I do? Thanks for the help! Alice -------------------------------------------------------------------------= ----- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - File online, calculators, forms, and more ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01C2FC5C.47E6E420 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Alice,
Sounds like you may have over watered your = grapefruit=20 tree.
Check out this site for info on watering = citrus:
http://ag.arizona.ed= u/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf
 
Good luck.
 
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
-----Original = Message-----
From:=20 Alice Chen <ali_chen@yahoo.com>
To: = arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= =20 <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= >
Date:=20 Tuesday, April 01, 2003 3:41 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Grapefruit tree problem

Hi,

I have a grapefruit tree that's been in the ground for about a = year. =20 It was comming along nicely with lots of flowers until last week when = I=20 noticed flowers falling off and ends of limbs turning yellow (now = brown!!) and=20 drying up.  I think it may have been overwatered.  Not sure, = had a=20 house sitter for a day.  The ground is still damp. Anyone know = why this=20 may be happening?  What do I do?

Thanks for the help!

Alice



Do you Yahoo!?
Yah= oo! Tax=20 Center - File online, calculators, forms, and=20 more
------=_NextPart_000_0021_01C2FC5C.47E6E420-- From dojobo@concentric.net Mon Apr 7 03:32:21 2003 From: dojobo@concentric.net (dojobo@concentric.net) Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2003 20:32:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304070332.h373WKXd002140@Ag.arizona.edu> I have some large Mexican Fan Palm trees. I need to prune the dead branches that are hanging down. There appears to be owls living in these dead branches. What species might they be and when is the best time of the year to prune off this dead material so I won't disturb any nesting activity? Thanks, Don From donnak03@yahoo.com Mon Apr 7 15:55:01 2003 From: donnak03@yahoo.com (donnak03@yahoo.com) Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 08:55:01 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304071555.h37Ft0CM012275@Ag.arizona.edu> We have pearl scale in our front yard and have been battling it for about 4 years. Now it is moving to the back yard. How do we get rid of this stuff? From cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu Mon Apr 7 17:40:25 2003 From: cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu (Carol Noyes) Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2003 10:40:25 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Water Conservation classes offered Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20030407103400.00abd400@ag.arizona.edu> If you're interested in learning more about how to keep your lawn and gardens healthy and looking good while conserving water, check out the special classes offered by the city Water Conservation office. Classes scheduled for the Desert Botanical Gardens, 1401 N. Galvin Parkway, are (they all begin at 9:00 AM): *Maintaining, Troubleshooting and Repairing Irrigation Systems, April 26 *Care of Desert Plants, May 10 *Preparing Your Landscape for Drought, May 31 Classes planned for various other locations in Phoenix are: *Care of Desert Plants, 6:30 PM, April 10 *Yard Water and Controller Programming, 9:00 AM, May 3 *Growing Healthy Desert Trees, 6:30 PM, May 6 *Proper Care for Desert Lawns, 9:00 AM, May 17 For the times and locations of these classes or a flier containing information on those and other sessions, call 602-256-3370. There is a $10 fee for all classes. www.phoenix.gov conservation@phoenix.gov Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Cooperative Extension Horticulture/Master Gardener programs http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 602-470-8092 (fax) Have a Wonderful Day!! Hours: Mon-Wed; 8:00 AM - 5:00 PM Thurs; 8:00 AM - 2:00 PM Friday; OFF "The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona." ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ From collinswest@msn.com Mon Apr 7 21:25:58 2003 From: collinswest@msn.com (collinswest@msn.com) Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 14:25:58 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304072125.h37LPvlk028703@Ag.arizona.edu> Prior to the construction of my new home, I hired a licensed contractor to move a saguaro. The contractor kept a substantial amount of root mass, maintained the geographic orientation, and created grade around the base of the saguaro to move water away from its trunk to prevent root rot. It has been a year and the saguaro appears shriveled, but still green. It hasn't responded to the recent rain like other saguaros on my property. I fear that the saguaro is failing, but hope there is something that can be done to turn it around. Can you advise me, or suggest someone who can? Thank you! Regards, Rob Collins From yardbird@fastq.com Tue Apr 8 01:34:57 2003 From: yardbird@fastq.com (Joe Walters) Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 18:34:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Yellow ring in grass Message-ID: Folks, I have several large grapefruit trees growing in my lawn. These trees have a diameter of 25' or more. Each has a small, approximately 6' diameter, ring of grass that is distinctly yellow. Is the grapefruit tree doing something to "protect its turf?" Kind Regards, -- Joe Walters: yardbird@fastq.com To know, and not to do, is not yet to know From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Apr 8 14:42:01 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 08 Apr 2003 14:42:01 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Yellow ring in grass Message-ID: Hi I have not heard that grapefruit produces a growth inhibitor. Is it possible that the grass that is turning yellow is shaded by the tree? Bermuda grasses will die out if they receive too much shade. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Joe Walters >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Yellow ring in grass >Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 18:34:57 -0700 > >Folks, > >I have several large grapefruit trees growing in my lawn. These trees have >a diameter of 25' or more. Each has a small, approximately 6' diameter, >ring of grass that is distinctly yellow. > >Is the grapefruit tree doing something to "protect its turf?" > >Kind Regards, >-- > Joe Walters: yardbird@fastq.com > To know, and not to do, is not yet to know >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Apr 8 15:04:24 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 08 Apr 2003 15:04:24 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Transplanted Saguaro Message-ID: Cacti grow slowly and also die slowly; it can be difficult to tell if what you are seeing is a transplant shock that will rebound or a slow decline and death. If you are in Phoenix area, call the Desert Botanical Garden tel#480-941-1225 for advice; in the Tucson area call the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum tel#520-883-2702. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: collinswest@msn.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 14:25:58 -0700 (MST) > >Prior to the construction of my new home, I hired a licensed contractor to >move a saguaro. The contractor kept a substantial amount of root mass, >maintained the geographic orientation, and created grade around the base of >the saguaro to move water away from its trunk to prevent root rot. It has >been a year and the saguaro appears shriveled, but still green. It hasn't >responded to the recent rain like other saguaros on my property. I fear >that the saguaro is failing, but hope there is something that can be done >to turn it around. Can you advise me, or suggest someone who can? > >Thank you! > >Regards, > >Rob Collins > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Tue Apr 8 00:23:48 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 17:23:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvillea, blown down by wind Message-ID: <005001c2fd65$2155f1c0$ae04e043@ibmbna6040> Sorry but there is no way to seal or heal the break in the trunk of your bougainvillea. You have two choices, you can cut the trunk below the break and allow the bougainvillea to grow again, my experience is that the bougainvillea will grow to its original height in about two years. The other choice is to leave it the way it is, it will eventually die. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: dj.swartz@verizon.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Sunday, April 06, 2003 12:37 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >The wind just broke my beautiful Bougainvillea shrub about 12 to 15 feet tall. >The break is at the base, but didn't completely seperate the trunk. Looking at the exposed trunk break it was all dry as if it had broken before. Is there anyway to heal the break ? I would like to prevent the loss of the shrub. I have severly trimmed back the shrub and tied it up. Is there anything that can be done . > >Thanks > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Tue Apr 8 00:41:53 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 17:41:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pearl Scale Message-ID: <005901c2fd67$a75c5460$ae04e043@ibmbna6040> There has not been a chemical approved by the government to kill pearl scale. However landscapers are using a chemical called MERIT with some sucess. The pH of the soil should be lowered by applying soil sulfur, the soil should be aerated and then the chemical applied in late May. The treatment should be made to not only the dead grass areas but to bordering areas at least a foot into green grass. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: donnak03@yahoo.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, April 07, 2003 9:27 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >We have pearl scale in our front yard and have been battling it for about 4 years. Now it is moving to the back yard. How do we get rid of this stuff? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From bruceegoodman@yahoo.com Tue Apr 8 04:22:37 2003 From: bruceegoodman@yahoo.com (bruceegoodman@yahoo.com) Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 21:22:37 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304080422.h384Malk007171@Ag.arizona.edu> I am planning on installing sod in my backyard, however, I am unsure which variety to use. I am originally from the midwest and would like to have grass which is about the same texture as bluegrass and/or a fine-leafed fescue. I'd prefer it be drought tolerant and fairly low maintenance, and child resistant (I have a 3 and a 5 year old, which explains the need for grass!). Any recommendations would be most appreciated. Thanks, Bruce Goodman bruceegoodman@yahoo.com From dscox2@aol.com Tue Apr 8 11:34:48 2003 From: dscox2@aol.com (dscox2@aol.com) Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 04:34:48 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304081134.h38BYllk008463@Ag.arizona.edu> I have two questions. How to control the yellow and black worms that eat the grape vines Flowers that will grow in almost complete shade. We have a shaded corner in the yard and a strip of dirt on each side of the patio that are shaded. From yardbird@fastq.com Tue Apr 8 15:17:23 2003 From: yardbird@fastq.com (Joe Walters) Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 08:17:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Yellow ring in grass In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: > Folks, >> I have several large grapefruit trees growing in my lawn. >> These trees have a diameter of 25' or more. Each has a >> small, approximately 6' diameter, ring of grass that is >> distinctly yellow. >> Is the grapefruit tree doing something to "protect >> its turf?" > I have not heard that grapefruit produces a growth > inhibitor. Is it possible that the grass that is turning > yellow is shaded by the tree? Bermuda grasses will die out > if they receive too much shade. > Linda Drew > Master Gardener Sorry, I was not precise enough in my explanation. The grass in question is Winter rye. It is a new version (for me), this year that is supposed to take the heat better and should do better under the trees mid-summer. In any case, both the old and new rye exhibited the same thing. An almost perfect circle of yellowed (but still healthy) grass that measures 32" from the trunk on all sides. (Just went out and measured.) Up to know the grass under these trees has grown more between cuttings than that part of the yard that is not shaded. I have three trees planted in lawn. Two have the yellow grass. The third "kind of" does. Unfortunately, I didn't get a good stand of grass under that tree last fall so there is a lot of dirt showing. All the trees in the lawn are trimmed up so I can walk under to mow so I don't think a lack of sunlight explains it. Especially since the South-West side of one tree overhangs rocks so I let it grow much lower on that side. Its circle is still 32" out from the trunk on all sides. If sunlight was the cause I would expect the North-East side to show more yellowing due to shading by the trunk. That is not the case. Hope I've explained the situation more clearly. -- Joe Walters: yardbird@fastq.com To know, and not to do, is not yet to know From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Apr 8 15:28:18 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 08 Apr 2003 15:28:18 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] pearl scale Message-ID: Here is an earlier answer: For a more complete description, go to: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-October/005481.html Unfortunately, all our College of Ag materials suggest that little can be done to contain your problem. As an example, I enclose a link to the relevant section of the Master Gardener Manual. http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/entomology/turf.html The scale insect attaches itself to grass roots and siphons off water and nutrients. The plant responds by forming a cyst or gall around the insect, but will still suffer, brown up and die. As you have experienced, small infestations grow larger quite quickly. Evidently, the immature insect overwinters within these cysts and emerge in May to find new feeding sites. [This is only a warm season turf problem.] In reviewing the Sunset Western Garden Problem Solver, it suggests removing and disposing of affected sod before it spreads too far. You may be beyond this point. Watering in beneficial nematodes during April and May may provide some control if they can attack the scale insects when they emerge from the cysts. Perhaps another list member has something up his/her sleeve to help you. Linda Guy Master Gardener >From: donnak03@yahoo.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 08:55:01 -0700 (MST) > >We have pearl scale in our front yard and have been battling it for about 4 >years. Now it is moving to the back yard. How do we get rid of this stuff? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Apr 8 15:39:52 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 08 Apr 2003 15:39:52 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] owls nesting in fan palms Message-ID: Try to get a description of the owls (size, color, etc), and call your local Audubon Society (listed in the phone book). There are eighteen species of owl in North America -- barn and screech owls are possibly what you might see. >From the book "Living With Wildlife" by The California Center for Wildlife: "Make every effort not to disturb owls during their spring nesting season, a critical time in their yearly cycle". Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: dojobo@concentric.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2003 20:32:21 -0700 (MST) > >I have some large Mexican Fan Palm trees. I need to prune the dead >branches that are hanging down. There appears to be owls living in these >dead branches. What species might they be and when is the best time of the >year to prune off this dead material so I won't disturb any nesting >activity? >Thanks, Don > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From jaufder@gblx.net Tue Apr 8 16:39:25 2003 From: jaufder@gblx.net (Jon Aufderheide) Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 09:39:25 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200304080422.h384Malk007171@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <001c01c2fded$6b1044e0$0700000a@orchid> Bruce, I'll qualify my response--the following would be true if you live in the greater phx area. I would recommend calling Western Sod (www.westernsod.com). I come from california, and I too long for the soft, beautiful blue/fescue mixes...but they won't survive the summers here. You need to use a bermuda grass of some sort. I went with the EZ-Turf variety in my yard, of about 5500 sq. ft. The sod will come overseeded with Rye, and then when it warms up a bit more, the bermuda will come through. I probably would have tried the "GN-1" variety, but I'd already installed some EZ-Turf. GN-1 is supposedly a bit less "pokey" than the other varieties. I believe the GN-1 and the EZ-Turf are all very durable, and of course they thrive on the hot conditions here in the Phoenix area. When the Bermuda starts to go dormant this fall, you'll have two options: 1/ let it go brown, and stay that way until the following spring, or 2/ overseed it with Rye for a nice, green lawn throughout the winter. > -----Original Message----- > From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu > [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu] On Behalf Of > bruceegoodman@yahoo.com > Sent: Monday, April 07, 2003 9:23 PM > To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > > I am planning on installing sod in my backyard, however, I am > unsure which variety to use. I am originally from the midwest > and would like to have grass which is about the same texture > as bluegrass and/or a fine-leafed fescue. > > I'd prefer it be drought tolerant and fairly low maintenance, > and child resistant (I have a 3 and a 5 year old, which > explains the need for grass!). > > Any recommendations would be most appreciated. > > Thanks, > > Bruce Goodman > bruceegoodman@yahoo.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_ga> rdener > From cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu Tue Apr 8 16:14:40 2003 From: cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu (Carol Noyes) Date: Tue, 08 Apr 2003 09:14:40 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Vegetable Gardening Class Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20030408091017.00abdcd0@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_4794637==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed VEGETABLE GARDENING CLASS APRIL 12, 2003 9:00 AM - 12:00 PM Maricopa County Cooperative Extension Office 4341 E. Broadway Rd., Phoenix You are what you eat! Enjoy your delicious and satisfying garden harvest this year. Learn the tricks of the trade for selecting and preparing a site. You can have the freshest greens, zippiest peppers and the juiciest tomatoes. Register now by calling 602-470-8086, ext.823 or you can reply to this email. Fee: $20.00 Carol Noyes Admin Secretary Ext. 308 Horticulture/Master Gardener programs Maricopa County Hours: M-W, 8:00 AM - 5:00 PM Thursday, 8:00 AM - 2:00 PM Friday - OFF http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden "The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona." --=====================_4794637==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
VEGETABLE GARDENING CLASS
APRIL 12, 2003
9:00 AM - 12:00 PM

Maricopa County Cooperative Extension Office
4341 E. Broadway Rd., Phoenix

You are what you eat!  Enjoy your delicious and satisfying garden harvest this year.  Learn the tricks of the trade for selecting and preparing a site.  You can have the freshest greens, zippiest peppers and the juiciest tomatoes.

Register now by calling 602-470-8086, ext.823 or you can reply to this email.  Fee: $20.00

Carol Noyes
Admin Secretary
Ext. 308
Horticulture/Master Gardener programs
Maricopa County
Hours:
M-W, 8:00 AM - 5:00 PM
Thursday, 8:00 AM - 2:00 PM
Friday - OFF

http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden
"The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona."
--=====================_4794637==_.ALT-- From joanne@landscape-resources.com Tue Apr 8 16:28:09 2003 From: joanne@landscape-resources.com (joanne@landscape-resources.com) Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 09:28:09 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304081628.h38GS8lk017139@Ag.arizona.edu> A client with 5/6 Bougainvillea along the back fence of their yard says that 3 of them are not flowering while the others are. There were 2 different varieties planted, Barbara Karst and California Gold, but it is not specific to one variety over the other. Is there something I can recommend to them to do to get the others to bloom? From Geoffrey.Brady@apollogrp.edu Tue Apr 8 17:07:05 2003 From: Geoffrey.Brady@apollogrp.edu (Geoff Brady) Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 10:07:05 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grass for East facing backyard Message-ID: <670193290CCBD511BA6600B0D079B7FD022B7745@usvphxex1.apollogrp.edu> Hi, I am getting ready to install my backyard and I wanted to get some suggestions on the type of grass to plant. I have a East facing backyard with a two story house shading most of the afternoon sun. Right now, it's fairly cool most of the day. I was thinking of planting the plain ole $.60 Bermuda grass, but I remember my brother in-law had problems establishing his backyard grass with the same lot layout. I really want to go with something less coarse than Bermuda. Any suggestions? Thanks, Geoff Brady From jaufder@gblx.net Tue Apr 8 18:50:28 2003 From: jaufder@gblx.net (Jon Aufderheide) Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 11:50:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200304081628.h38GS8lk017139@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000f01c2fdff$b9a9dc80$0700000a@orchid> I've heard that if they get too much water, they get "fat and happy" and won't bloom. Your client might try reducing the water being given to the non-blooming plants, assuming they're otherwise healthy looking. Are they set up on a micro-irrigation system, or are they being watered by hand? overspray from grass sprinklers? jpa > -----Original Message----- > From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu > [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu] On Behalf Of > joanne@landscape-resources.com > Sent: Tuesday, April 08, 2003 9:28 AM > To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > > A client with 5/6 Bougainvillea along the back fence of their > yard says that 3 of them are not flowering while the others > are. There were 2 different varieties planted, Barbara Karst > and California Gold, but it is not specific to one variety > over the other. Is there something I can recommend to them > to do to get the others to bloom? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_ga> rdener > From Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com Tue Apr 8 18:52:11 2003 From: Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com (Zelhart Alan-rpcs30) Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 11:52:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B9930705462303@az33exm25.corp.mot.com> Hi JoAnne, Generally there are two things that effect how well Bougainvillea blooms. 1. Not enough sunshine. The more hot sun they get, the better they bloom. Full sun provides the best bloom. 2. Too much water. If your bougainvillea are getting too much water, they will grow like a weed, but not put out hardly any bloom. Once bougainvillea is established, it very seldom needs watered at all. Some of the best blooming bougainvillea I've seen is the neglected bougainvillea. Please note, that's once it is established. The first an possibly part of the second year, it does require a little extra care and watering. Chat with you later, Alan -- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ----- Alan Zelhart gizmoaz@cox.net Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- The light at the end of the tunnel is the light of an oncoming train -----Original Message----- From: joanne@landscape-resources.com [mailto:joanne@landscape-resources.com] Sent: Tuesday, April 08, 2003 9:28 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page A client with 5/6 Bougainvillea along the back fence of their yard says that 3 of them are not flowering while the others are. There were 2 different varieties planted, Barbara Karst and California Gold, but it is not specific to one variety over the other. Is there something I can recommend to them to do to get the others to bloom? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From bholc@juno.com Tue Apr 8 19:24:07 2003 From: bholc@juno.com (bholc@juno.com) Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 12:24:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304081924.h38JO5lk026878@Ag.arizona.edu> On 3/29 I sent an email, asking about amber-colored sap globules, together with bark separating from the wood, on Mesquite as well as Grapefruit trees, and my use of Bordeau Mixture and Chlorothalonil Fungicide in an attempt to do SOMETHING about it. No reply. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Apr 8 20:34:41 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 08 Apr 2003 20:34:41 +0000 Subject: Fwd: Re: [Arid_gardener] Yellow ring in grass Message-ID: Here is some additional information -- any ideas? >Sorry, I was not precise enough in my explanation. > >The grass in question is Winter rye. It is a new version (for me), this >year that is supposed to take the heat better and should do better under >the trees mid-summer. > >In any case, both the old and new rye exhibited the same thing. An almost >perfect circle of yellowed (but still healthy) grass that measures 32" from >the trunk on all sides. (Just went out and measured.) Up to know the grass >under these trees has grown more between cuttings than that part of the >yard that is not shaded. > >I have three trees planted in lawn. Two have the yellow grass. The third >"kind of" does. Unfortunately, I didn't get a good stand of grass under >that tree last fall so there is a lot of dirt showing. > >All the trees in the lawn are trimmed up so I can walk under to mow so I >don't think a lack of sunlight explains it. Especially since the South-West >side of one tree overhangs rocks so I let it grow much lower on that side. >Its circle is still 32" out from the trunk on all sides. > >If sunlight was the cause I would expect the North-East side to show more >yellowing due to shading by the trunk. That is not the case. > >Hope I've explained the situation more clearly. >-- > Joe Walters: yardbird@fastq.com > To know, and not to do, is not yet to know >From: Joe Walters >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Yellow ring in grass >Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 08:17:23 -0700 > > > > > > Folks, > > >> I have several large grapefruit trees growing in my lawn. > >> These trees have a diameter of 25' or more. Each has a > >> small, approximately 6' diameter, ring of grass that is > >> distinctly yellow. > > >> Is the grapefruit tree doing something to "protect > >> its turf?" > > > I have not heard that grapefruit produces a growth > > inhibitor. Is it possible that the grass that is turning > > yellow is shaded by the tree? Bermuda grasses will die out > > if they receive too much shade. > > > Linda Drew > > Master Gardener > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus From jbegeman@Ag.arizona.edu Tue Apr 8 22:03:42 2003 From: jbegeman@Ag.arizona.edu (John Begeman) Date: Tue, 08 Apr 2003 15:03:42 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tucson Garden Tour, This Saturday! Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20030408150208.00a02ec0@ag.arizona.edu> Tucson Master Gardeners Home Garden Tour Saturday , April 12, 2003 9:00 A.M. - 3:00 P.M. This year's Master Gardener Home Garden Tour includes 5 exceptional Master Gardener Home Gardens and the Demonstration Gardens at the Pima County Cooperative Extension Center. Tickets are $6.00 per person. There is no charge for children under 12 and under accompanied by an adult. Tickets may be purchased at: Pima County Cooperative Extension, 4210 N. Campbell Ave. Harlow Gardens, 5620 E. Pima St. Rillito Nursery, 6303 N. La Cholla John P. Begeman, M.S. Urban Horticulture Agent Pima County Cooperative Extension Phone: (520) 626-5161 Fax: (520) 626-5849 jbegeman@ag.arizona.edu From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Tue Apr 8 22:46:58 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 15:46:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite trees with sap globules Message-ID: <006501c2fe20$c4597200$4704e043@ibmbna6040> It is normal for mesquite trees to bleed sap and does not indicate a problem. You didn't say whether the bark splitting on the grapefruit tree was on the lower trunk or on the limbs. If it is on the limbs Rio Grande Gummosis is the probable cause and there is no treatment available. If the bark splitting and gumming is on the lower trunk then Foot Rot Gummosis is indicated. Since treatment for Foot Rot Gummosis is rather detailed I suggest that you obtain a copy of the bulletin titled CITRUS TREES IN THE HOME GARDEN from U. of A., Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040. The cost is only $1.00 and the above treatment is described plus care of citrus trees. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: bholc@juno.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Tuesday, April 08, 2003 1:34 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >On 3/29 I sent an email, asking about amber-colored sap globules, together with bark separating from the wood, on Mesquite as well as Grapefruit trees, and my use of Bordeau Mixture and Chlorothalonil Fungicide in an attempt to do SOMETHING about it. > No reply. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From greenbab@flowingwells.k12.az.us Tue Apr 8 22:52:36 2003 From: greenbab@flowingwells.k12.az.us (greenbab@flowingwells.k12.az.us) Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 15:52:36 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304082252.h38MqZlk011297@Ag.arizona.edu> What bugs are causing the white foamy blobs on my Salvia Gregii and how can I get rid of them? Will they kill the plant? Also,how can I get rid of the extensive infestation of mealy bugs on a large potted succulent? They are so bad that the new growth is deformed and it's turning yellow. From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Tue Apr 8 23:06:58 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 16:06:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grape Leaf Skeletonizer Message-ID: <007001c2fe23$8fa411c0$4704e043@ibmbna6040> The yellow and black caterpillar that is eating your grape leaves is the Grape Leaf Skeletonizer. It can be controlled by spraying the leaves with either a product called " BT " or carbaryl. For a list of plants that will grow in the shade I suggest that you go to your library and ask for a book titled WESTERN GARDEN BOOK. In it is a four page section listing with photos plants that will grow in the shade. Each listing tells in what zones the plant will grow. If you live in the Phoenix area we are in zone 13. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: dscox2@aol.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Tuesday, April 08, 2003 8:22 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I have two questions. >How to control the yellow and black worms that eat the grape vines > >Flowers that will grow in almost complete shade. We have a shaded corner in the yard and a strip of dirt on each side of the patio that are shaded. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Tue Apr 8 23:18:39 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 16:18:39 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Drip irrigation system sizing Message-ID: <007501c2fe25$312ef040$4704e043@ibmbna6040> Chuck, You didn't say what size the trees are, If they are 15 gallon or 24 inch box I would suggest installing three 2 gallon drippers, as the tree grows you will need to add more drippers. Alternately you could use adjustable drippers called shrublers which adjusts from about 2 gallons per hour to 10 gallons per hour. As the tree grows it is easy to apply more water. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener ----Original Message----- From: chuck42@att.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Sunday, April 06, 2003 12:38 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >We live in the Phoenix area and just planted 2 new, pine trees . We want to install a dripper type of irrigation system, but do not know what size to use. Can you please give us some advice? Thanks, Chuck Halm > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Apr 9 02:39:00 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 09 Apr 2003 02:39:00 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] spittle bugs and mealy bugs Message-ID: The Salvia greggii sounds like spittle bugs. They are tiny insects that produce the 'foam' to protect themselves. Usually, spittlebugs do no harm and you can wash them off with a strong spray of water. Mealy bugs can be tough. I use a soap spray (2 teaspoons of hand dishwasing liquid to a 1/2 gallon of water) to thoroughly wet the bugs; then rinse the plant with clear water. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: greenbab@flowingwells.k12.az.us >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 15:52:36 -0700 (MST) > >What bugs are causing the white foamy blobs on my Salvia Gregii and how can >I get rid of them? Will they kill the plant? > >Also,how can I get rid of the extensive infestation of mealy bugs on a >large potted succulent? They are so bad that the new growth is deformed and >it's turning yellow. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 From watsontl@mindspring.com Wed Apr 9 04:35:04 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 21:35:04 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Yellow ring in grass References: Message-ID: <001c01c2fe51$64edb020$a060b83f@S0029317241> While living in Phoenix we cared for a pair of grapefruit trees. Under our care they filled out nicely and gradually killed the grass beneath them. I don't recall a distinct ring pattern to the die-off, but it certainly conformed to the densest shade area beneath the tree. The area did not remain dead for long, unfortunately. Before we knew what hit us, it was growing a lush patch of chickweed! Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Linda Drew" To: ; Sent: Tuesday, April 08, 2003 7:42 AM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Yellow ring in grass > > Hi > > I have not heard that grapefruit produces a growth > inhibitor. Is it possible that the grass that is > turning yellow is shaded by the tree? Bermuda grasses > will die out if they receive too much shade. > > Linda Drew > Master Gardener > > > > >From: Joe Walters > >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Yellow ring in grass > >Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 18:34:57 -0700 > > > >Folks, > > > >I have several large grapefruit trees growing in my lawn. These trees have > >a diameter of 25' or more. Each has a small, approximately 6' diameter, > >ring of grass that is distinctly yellow. > > > >Is the grapefruit tree doing something to "protect its turf?" > > > >Kind Regards, > >-- > > Joe Walters: yardbird@fastq.com > > To know, and not to do, is not yet to know > >_______________________________________________ > >Arid_gardener mailing list > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > _________________________________________________________________ > The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE* > http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From FRAMEHILL1@AOL.COM Wed Apr 9 17:52:02 2003 From: FRAMEHILL1@AOL.COM (FRAMEHILL1@AOL.COM) Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 10:52:02 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304091752.h39Hpxlk026349@Ag.arizona.edu> Our Chandler Subdvn has to replace 11 seven year old mesquite trees in our entrance. These trees overgrew their limited space and have become a very obnoxious messy tree to the street, the city and the neighbors. We would like to replace them and make more of an attractive entrance. So far a purple plum tree has been the only suggested tree. The trees only have a maximum planting area of about 7 feet wide. Any Suggestions, please? From Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com Wed Apr 9 18:43:27 2003 From: Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com (Zelhart Alan-rpcs30) Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 11:43:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B993070546237B@az33exm25.corp.mot.com> Purple Leaf Plum trees would surely die. Our intense sun burns their trunks easily. Then before you know it you have sap oozing out of the sides, shortly after that they are loosing all their leaves, and then they die. What about a Vitex (Chaste) Tree? My preference is the multi trunked. They stay somewhat small. The do loose there leaves in the winter, but other than that I don't think they are terribly messy. They have beautiful fragrant blooms and foliage through the summer. You can see a picture of the blooms on one here: http://www.oceansprings.org/wallpapers/images_1024x768/chastetree.jpg Below is a picture of a tree: http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/county/smith/media/0081.jpg I just planted one in my yard because I've always enjoyed seeing this beautiful tree in bloom. Even when it is leafless in the winter, it has such nice form and contrasting gray colors. Chat with you later, Alan -- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ----- Alan Zelhart gizmoaz@cox.net Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- When you kill a bug, ten more come for the funeral -----Original Message----- From: FRAMEHILL1@aol.com [mailto:FRAMEHILL1@aol.com] Sent: Wednesday, April 09, 2003 10:52 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our Chandler Subdvn has to replace 11 seven year old mesquite trees in our entrance. These trees overgrew their limited space and have become a very obnoxious messy tree to the street, the city and the neighbors. We would like to replace them and make more of an attractive entrance. So far a purple plum tree has been the only suggested tree. The trees only have a maximum planting area of about 7 feet wide. Any Suggestions, please? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Apr 9 20:08:03 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 09 Apr 2003 20:08:03 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] small tree for subdivision entrance Message-ID: One link with information about trees that would fit in a small space is: http://www.tucsonbotanical.org/html/links_info.html and click on "Think Small - Small Trees for Urban Spaces" Before selecting a tree, you may want to consult with a landscape designer. Any good designer is going to ask you a number of questions on what you want for form, color, texture, seasonal needs, style (oasis, arid, transitional, etc.). You may want to discuss these ideas and build consensus in your group before you decide on a specific tree. It will take some time to replace the shade and visual impact that the mesquites provided. I agree that 'chaste tree' is a beautiful possibility. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: FRAMEHILL1@AOL.COM >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 10:52:02 -0700 (MST) > >Our Chandler Subdvn has to replace 11 seven year old mesquite trees in our >entrance. These trees overgrew their limited space and have become a very >obnoxious messy tree to the street, the city and the neighbors. We would >like to replace them and make more of an attractive entrance. So far a >purple plum tree has been the only suggested tree. The trees only have a >maximum planting area of about 7 feet wide. Any Suggestions, please? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus From BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu Wed Apr 9 18:34:28 2003 From: BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Wed, 09 Apr 2003 11:34:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] COMMUNITY PLANNING AND DESIGN RFP Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20030409113330.0461b050@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_24702400==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed COMMUNITY PLANNING AND DESIGN WORKSHOP COLLEGE OF ARCHITECTURE, PLANNING, AND LANDSCAPE ARCHITECTURE Drachman Institute CAPLA - University of Arizona Tucson AZ 85721 819 East First Street Tele: 520-623-1722, Fax: 520-623-1705 cposter@u.arizona.edu PRESS RELEASE: March 19, 2003 (for immediate release) CONTACT: CORKY POSTER, 520-623-1722 The Community Planning and Design Workshop of the University of Arizona announces the issuance of its year 2003 Request for Proposals for Planning and Design Assistance. The RFP is intended for neighborhood organizations, small cities and towns, rural associations and non-profit organizations seeking assistance in community planning and design. The proposal is due April 21, 2003. The Community Planning and Design Workshop of the University of Arizona is a public service/community outreach arm of the College of Architecture, Planning and Landscape Architecture (CAPLA), in collaboration with the Roy P. Drachman Institute. Support funding is provided by both CAPLA and the College of Agriculture through Cooperative Extension. The Community Planning and Design Workshop is intended to bring the skills and knowledge of the students, faculty and staff of CAPLA to communities in need throughout Tucson, Pima County and the State of Arizona. The Workshop has assisted many groups over last ten years. Projects are intended both to assist communities and to insure that students involved are meeting their educational goals. While there is generally no charge for faculty and student salary, we will ask that the selected groups contribute funds (on a sliding scale, based on ability to pay) at the beginning of the project to support materials, supplies, reproduction, travel, and related costs. For more information on the Workshop or to prepare an application on-line, see our webpage at http://architecture.arizona.edu/outreach/cpdw/default.htm. For more information and/or an application, please call Corky Poster at 520-623-1722 or e-mail at cposter@u.arizona.edu or fax at 520-623-1705. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens --=====================_24702400==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" COMMUNITY PLANNING AND DESIGN WORKSHOP COLLEGE   OF   ARCHITECTURE,    PLANNING,    AND   LANDSCAPE   ARCHITECTURE

Drachman Institute              CAPLA  -  University of Arizona                              Tucson AZ 85721
819 East First Street           Tele: 520-623-1722,  Fax: 520-623-1705                      cposter@u.arizona.edu

PRESS RELEASE: March 19, 2003 (for immediate release)
CONTACT: CORKY POSTER, 520-623-1722

        The Community Planning and Design Workshop of the University of Arizona announces the issuance of its year 2003 Request for Proposals for Planning and Design Assistance. The RFP is intended for neighborhood organizations, small cities and towns, rural associations and non-profit organizations seeking assistance in community planning and design. The proposal is due April 21, 2003.
        The Community Planning and Design Workshop of the University of Arizona is a public service/community outreach arm of the College of Architecture, Planning and Landscape Architecture (CAPLA), in collaboration with the Roy P. Drachman Institute. Support funding is provided by both CAPLA and the College of Agriculture through Cooperative Extension. The Community Planning and Design Workshop is intended to bring the skills and knowledge of the students, faculty and staff of CAPLA to communities in need throughout Tucson, Pima County and the State of Arizona.
        The Workshop has assisted many groups over last ten years. Projects are intended both to assist communities and to insure that students involved are meeting their educational goals.  While there is generally no charge for faculty and student salary, we will ask that the selected groups contribute funds (on a sliding scale, based on ability to pay) at the beginning of the project to support materials, supplies, reproduction, travel, and related costs. For more information on the Workshop or to prepare an application on-line, see our webpage at
http://architecture.arizona.edu/outreach/cpdw/default.htm.
        For more information and/or an application, please call Corky Poster at 520-623-1722 or e-mail at
cposter@u.arizona.edu or fax at 520-623-1705.


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ  85040-8807

Phone:  (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax:  (602) 470-8092
email:  BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/
http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens

--=====================_24702400==_.ALT-- From gwright@Ag.arizona.edu Wed Apr 9 22:32:38 2003 From: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu (Glenn C. Wright) Date: Wed, 09 Apr 2003 15:32:38 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: Pink grapefruit Message-ID: <5.1.1.6.2.20030409153035.020d6ea0@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_623912562==.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed >Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 12:44:26 -0700 >From: "Kay DuBois" >To: "'gwright@ag.arizona.edu'" >Subject: Pink grapefruit >X-Mailer: Internet Mail Service (5.5.2650.21) > >We have a pink grapefruit tree going into its third summer--about 5 feet >tall. It bloomed last year, had tiny fruit that fell off. > >Since mid winter, the leaves have been very yellow and it did not >flower. I have tried ironite and lots of water and several types of >fertilizers. Do you have some help for the poor little thing? > >Kay DuBois >Administrative Services Coordinator >Phoenix Seminary >Phone: 480-443-1020; Fax: 480-443-1120 > Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D. Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist University of Arizona - Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center 2186 W. County 15th Street Somerton, AZ 85350 Phone: 928-726-0458 FAX: 928-726-1363 e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu --=====================_623912562==.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 12:44:26 -0700
From: "Kay DuBois" <KayD@PhoenixSeminary.edu>
To: "'gwright@ag.arizona.edu'" <gwright@Ag.arizona.edu>
Subject: Pink grapefruit
X-Mailer: Internet Mail Service (5.5.2650.21)

We have a pink grapefruit tree going into its third summer--about 5 feet tall.  It bloomed last year, had tiny fruit that fell off.
 
Since mid winter, the leaves have been very yellow and it did not flower.  I have tried ironite and lots of water and several types of fertilizers.  Do you have some help for the poor little thing?

Kay DuBois
Administrative Services Coordinator
Phoenix Seminary
Phone: 480-443-1020; Fax:  480-443-1120
 

Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D.
Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist
University of Arizona - Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center
2186 W. County 15th Street
Somerton, AZ 85350
Phone: 928-726-0458
FAX: 928-726-1363
e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu
--=====================_623912562==.ALT-- From yardbird@fastq.com Thu Apr 10 01:58:17 2003 From: yardbird@fastq.com (Joe Walters) Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 18:58:17 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Yellow grass under citrus Message-ID: Rod McKusick wrote: > Yes bermuda grass will not do well in the se had. The yellow grass is rye and it has been yellow every year since I've moved here. It comes up very green in the fall, but shortly after the 2nd or 3rd cutting, I start to see the yellow > In addition a mature citrus tree requires lots of water, > more water than what sprinkling the grass provides. A couple of years ago I went to the tree thing at ASU. There are a couple of things I remember the professors saying: 1. The tree can't read the fertilizer bag. 2. Citrus in lawns expand their root system beyond the drip line. I have nine grapefruit trees. I can say that they are among the nicest in the neighborhood. 1. Four are in the lawn and show very little in the way of stress during July/August. 2. Three are just off the edge of the lawn in rocks and the only direct water they get is from a drip system. These too don't show much in the way of stress. (The builder of this house put on gutters and downspouts that for a front of the house empty in the rocks where these three tress reside.) Since we don't get much rain I can only conclude that these trees have sent roots out into the lawn area. 3. Two who get drip (I doubled the number of drippers when we moved in five years ago.) They get some water that comes under the wall from the neighbor who does flood irrigation. Finally, I added 3/4" pipe and eight lawn sprinkler heads under the two trees. I'll give them a shot around the first of the month from March through May. June through September they get watered on the 1st and 15th. October and November (maybe December) is back to once a month. January and February they are on their own :-) It is these last two trees that i have to watch closely for signs of stress and give them extra water at that time. > Take a screwdriver with at least a 6 inch shank and probe > the ground where you find the yellow. I would guess that > the blade will not go into the ground more than 3 inches > because the tree is using up all the water. I'm going to give that a try in a day or so when our guests leave. Kind Regards, -- Joe Walters: yardbird@fastq.com To know, and not to do, is not yet to know From bokmorg@aol.com Thu Apr 10 03:52:48 2003 From: bokmorg@aol.com (bokmorg@aol.com) Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 20:52:48 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304100352.h3A3qllk015541@Ag.arizona.edu> What kind of palm trees or other plant material with some height are suitable for planting next to a swimming pool. From JAS3mab@aol.com Thu Apr 10 04:01:51 2003 From: JAS3mab@aol.com (JAS3mab@aol.com) Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2003 21:01:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304100401.h3A41olk016715@Ag.arizona.edu> I'm hoping you can answer a question or two for me. I have an orange tree that is about 30 years old. My last crop of oranges, the top of the oranges seemed to turn black and fall of the tree. The fruit and the pulp were fine, once peeled or cut, but the top was black. What would cause that?? I've never seen that before, or heard of that happening. I also have grapefruit, tangelo, and lemon trees, and none of the other fruit seemed to have that problem. Thank You, From gardenjargon@ameritech.net Thu Apr 10 13:17:49 2003 From: gardenjargon@ameritech.net (gardenjargon@ameritech.net) Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 06:17:49 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304101317.h3ADHmBK024970@Ag.arizona.edu> Recently I purchased a mango, ate it, pulled out the seed, broke it in two pieces in the process, planted it in starting medium and guess what, I have sprouts. Do I just keep these in the same pot or are they all different little mangos. What are my chances of getting a houseplant from this? Thank you. From cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu Thu Apr 10 16:10:34 2003 From: cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu (Carol Noyes) Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 09:10:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Vegetable Gardening Class Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20030410091030.00abc1a0@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_3893500==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed VEGETABLE GARDENING CLASS APRIL 12, 2003 9:00 AM - 12:00 PM Maricopa County Cooperative Extension Office 4341 E. Broadway Rd., Phoenix You are what you eat! Enjoy your delicious and satisfying garden harvest this year. Learn the tricks of the trade for selecting and preparing a site. You can have the freshest greens, zippiest peppers and the juiciest tomatoes. Register now by calling 602-470-8086, ext.823 or you can reply to this email. Fee: $20.00 Carol Noyes Admin Secretary Ext. 308 Horticulture/Master Gardener programs Maricopa County Hours: M-W, 8:00 AM - 5:00 PM Thursday, 8:00 AM - 2:00 PM Friday - OFF http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden "The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona." --=====================_3893500==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

VEGETABLE GARDENING CLASS
APRIL 12, 2003
9:00 AM - 12:00 PM

Maricopa County Cooperative Extension Office
4341 E. Broadway Rd., Phoenix

You are what you eat!  Enjoy your delicious and satisfying garden harvest this year.  Learn the tricks of the trade for selecting and preparing a site.  You can have the freshest greens, zippiest peppers and the juiciest tomatoes.

Register now by calling 602-470-8086, ext.823 or you can reply to this email.  Fee: $20.00

Carol Noyes
Admin Secretary
Ext. 308
Horticulture/Master Gardener programs
Maricopa County
Hours:
M-W, 8:00 AM - 5:00 PM
Thursday, 8:00 AM - 2:00 PM
Friday - OFF

http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden
"The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona."
--=====================_3893500==_.ALT-- From fittedshirt@hotmail.com Thu Apr 10 17:11:48 2003 From: fittedshirt@hotmail.com (Thomas Homans) Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 11:11:48 -0600 Subject: [Arid_gardener] purple plum survival rate Message-ID: Someone on the list yesterday mentioned that plums don't stand a chance of living here in the valley. I wonder if that person was referring strictly to the Phoenix/Mesa area. I planted a 15 gal. plum here in Apache Jct last March, and it made it through the summer just fine, and is covered in new growth/flowers right now. The tree was planted on the Northwest side of the house, where it gets sunlight from sunrise until about 5pm at night. I'm wondering if I just got lucky, that it stayed alive in that part of the yard! Perhaps living this far east, we got enough cloudcover from the monsoons last summer that the tree esacaped the bulk of the intense summer sunshine? At any rate, with all this talk about the trunks being susceptible to sunburn, I'm wondering if it would be wise to paint the trunk like you would citrus, as added insurance? I just wanted to write this for the casual homeowner thinking about planting one of these trees... if I can keep this thing alive, I think anyone can. regards, tom _________________________________________________________________ Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 From cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu Thu Apr 10 16:25:09 2003 From: cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu (Carol Noyes) Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 09:25:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Blooms and Blossoms Class Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20030410092428.00ac6c70@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_4768458==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Writing about the Garden Blooms and Blossoms Workshop April 19, 2003 1:00 - 4:00 PM Maricopa County Extension Office 4341 E. Broadway Rd Phoenix, AZ 85040 $20.00** Do you have an interest in gardening and wonder about writing about that interest? Join author, Mary Irish, for this hands-on writing workshop. Come and see what your garden has to say. Please call 602-470-8086, x823 to register or send a check made payable to The University of Arizona to Desert Garden Institute, Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway Rd, Phoenix, AZ 85040 NO REGISTRATIONS WILL BE TAKEN AT THE DOOR. **$5 discount offered to Master Gardeners and Writer's Voice members. Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Cooperative Extension Horticulture/Master Gardener programs http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 602-470-8092 (fax) Have a Wonderful Day!! Hours: Mon-Wed; 8:00 AM - 5:00 PM Thurs; 8:00 AM - 2:00 PM Friday; OFF "The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona." ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ --=====================_4768458==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
Writing about the Garden Blooms and Blossoms Workshop
April 19, 2003
1:00 - 4:00 PM
Maricopa County Extension Office
4341 E. Broadway Rd
Phoenix, AZ 85040
$20.00**

Do you have an interest in gardening and wonder about writing about that interest?  Join author, Mary Irish, for this hands-on writing workshop.  Come and see what your garden has to say.

Please call 602-470-8086, x823 to register
or send a check made payable to The University of Arizona
to Desert Garden Institute, Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway Rd, Phoenix, AZ 85040

NO REGISTRATIONS WILL BE TAKEN AT THE DOOR.


**$5 discount offered to Master Gardeners and Writer's Voice members.



Carol Noyes
Administrative Secretary
Maricopa County Cooperative Extension
Horticulture/Master Gardener programs
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden

602-470-8086  Ext. 308
602-470-8092 (fax)
Have a Wonderful Day!!
Hours:
Mon-Wed; 8:00 AM - 5:00 PM
Thurs; 8:00 AM - 2:00 PM
Friday; OFF
"The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona."

 ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~
--=====================_4768458==_.ALT-- From Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com Thu Apr 10 17:20:16 2003 From: Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com (Zelhart Alan-rpcs30) Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 10:20:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] purple plum survival rate Message-ID: <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B99307054623EF@az33exm25.corp.mot.com> Hi Tom, That was me. I've planted three of them, in the last 10 years, and all three died. The longest any one of them lasted was 2-1/2 years. I do believe they could survive with shade during the most intense time of the day, and with their trunk wrapped or painted to protect the trunk...but other than that, my luck has not been good. All three of mine were planted in full sun. All three of mine started getting sunburnt trunks. Then the trunks started splitting. The started loosing leaves, and by the end of the 2nd summer they were oozing sap, and died shortly after. They might even make it if grown as a shrub, and their trunk protected from the sun by the foliage going up and down the sides of the trunk. Good luck! Chat with you later, Alan -- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ----- Alan Zelhart gizmoaz@cox.net Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- Here's to our wives and sweethearts; may they never meet. -----Original Message----- From: Thomas Homans [mailto:fittedshirt@hotmail.com] Sent: Thursday, April 10, 2003 10:12 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] purple plum survival rate Someone on the list yesterday mentioned that plums don't stand a chance of living here in the valley. I wonder if that person was referring strictly to the Phoenix/Mesa area. I planted a 15 gal. plum here in Apache Jct last March, and it made it through the summer just fine, and is covered in new growth/flowers right now. The tree was planted on the Northwest side of the house, where it gets sunlight from sunrise until about 5pm at night. I'm wondering if I just got lucky, that it stayed alive in that part of the yard! Perhaps living this far east, we got enough cloudcover from the monsoons last summer that the tree esacaped the bulk of the intense summer sunshine? At any rate, with all this talk about the trunks being susceptible to sunburn, I'm wondering if it would be wise to paint the trunk like you would citrus, as added insurance? I just wanted to write this for the casual homeowner thinking about planting one of these trees... if I can keep this thing alive, I think anyone can. regards, tom _________________________________________________________________ Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From olin" Message-ID: <002601c2ff93$1be541c0$7653530c@olin> We planted two 5 gallon trees about 20 years ago that lasted okay for about 8 years. Not quite as long as Santa Rosa (about 12 years) but we thought 8 years was normal. -Olin (NW Valley) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Zelhart Alan-rpcs30" > That was me. I've planted three of them, in the last 10 years, and all three died. The longest any one of them lasted was 2-1/2 years. I do believe they could survive with shade during the most intense time of the day, and with their trunk wrapped or painted to protect the trunk...but other than that, my luck has not been good. All three of mine were planted in full sun. All three of mine started getting sunburnt trunks. Then the trunks started splitting. The started loosing leaves, and by the end of the 2nd summer they were oozing sap, and died shortly after. They might even make it if grown as a shrub, and their trunk protected from the sun by the foliage going up and down the sides of the trunk. Alan > -----Original Message-----> From: Thomas Homans [mailto:fittedshirt@hotmail.com] > Someone on the list yesterday mentioned that plums don't stand a chance of > living here in the valley. I wonder if that person was referring strictly > to the Phoenix/Mesa area. I planted a 15 gal. plum here in Apache Jct last > March, and it made it through the summer just fine, and is covered in new > growth/flowers right now. The tree was planted on the Northwest side of the > house, where it gets sunlight from sunrise until about 5pm at night. I'm > wondering if I just got lucky, that it stayed alive in that part of the > yard! Perhaps living this far east, we got enough cloudcover from the > monsoons last summer that the tree esacaped the bulk of the intense summer > sunshine? > At any rate, with all this talk about the trunks being susceptible to > sunburn, I'm wondering if it would be wise to paint the trunk like you would > citrus, as added insurance? > I just wanted to write this for the casual homeowner thinking about planting > one of these trees... if I can keep this thing alive, I think anyone can. > tom From jbegeman@Ag.arizona.edu Thu Apr 10 22:09:50 2003 From: jbegeman@Ag.arizona.edu (John Begeman) Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 15:09:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Garden Tour, This Saturday Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20030410144459.00a00bb0@ag.arizona.edu>
Tucson Master Gardeners

Home Garden Tour

Saturday, April 12
9 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Tickets: $6.00 per person, Children 12 and under free with Adult


Tickets may be purchased at the following locations:

Eastside

Harlow Gardens
5620 E. Pima

Central

Pima Co. Extension Center
4210 N. Campbell Ave.   

Westside

Rillito Nursery
6303 N. La Cholla

For more information, contact: Pima County Master Gardeners at (520) 626-5161

Tickets available the morning of the tour at the Pima County Extension Center, 4210 N. Campbell Ave., Tucson







John P. Begeman, M.S.
Urban Horticulture Agent
Pima County Cooperative Extension
Phone: (520) 626-5161
Fax: (520) 626-5849
jbegeman@ag.arizona.edu From staneissinger@yahoo.com Thu Apr 10 20:44:17 2003 From: staneissinger@yahoo.com (Stan Eissinger) Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 13:44:17 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Thrips on Roses Message-ID: <20030410204417.21484.qmail@web12903.mail.yahoo.com> --0-1287561228-1050007457=:18945 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Is there an organic mehtod of reducing thrip damage to roses? Thank You --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - File online, calculators, forms, and more --0-1287561228-1050007457=:18945 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Is there an organic mehtod of reducing thrip damage to roses?  Thank You 



Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Tax Center - File online, calculators, forms, and more --0-1287561228-1050007457=:18945-- From Lc4fr@aol.com Thu Apr 10 22:01:10 2003 From: Lc4fr@aol.com (Lc4fr@aol.com) Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 15:01:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304102201.h3AM18BK011868@Ag.arizona.edu> I am trying to grow a lawn in my backyard. When we first moved in there was some grass, but that has all been killed by lack of watering and two big dogs. I want a yard (because I am sick to death of the dirt and dust that is everywhere. Of course the sprinkler heads have been eatten (Puppies are very hard on yards) so I really need some help here. What kind of grass do I need to plant, that Is sturdy, hardy, grows fast? How do I get the soil ready for this, and how long can I expect to wait for a beautiful lush, dog resistan yard. Thank you for your help Sherry From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Thu Apr 10 23:46:31 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 16:46:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oranges black at the stem end Message-ID: <006c01c2ffbb$6a8714c0$2831db43@ibmbna6040> The black at the stem end of your oranges is probably caused by a fungus called ALTERNARIA or black rot. Sorry but there is no known preventative or cure. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: JAS3mab@aol.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Thursday, April 10, 2003 8:32 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I'm hoping you can answer a question or two for me. > >I have an orange tree that is about 30 years old. My last crop of oranges, the top of the oranges seemed to turn black and fall of the tree. The fruit and the pulp were fine, once peeled or cut, but the top was black. >What would cause that?? I've never seen that before, or heard of that happening. I also have grapefruit, tangelo, and lemon trees, and none of the other fruit seemed to have that problem. > >Thank You, > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From franya137@msn.com Thu Apr 10 23:40:59 2003 From: franya137@msn.com (franya137@msn.com) Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 16:40:59 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304102340.h3ANevBK001743@Ag.arizona.edu> Need information regarding care and maintenance of chuparosa. Should I cut it back at any time? It seems to be taking over the area it is in. I have it near an orange tree and a hummingbird feeder...hoping to get hummingbirds. Does it need much water and should I fertilize like my other flowering plants? From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Fri Apr 11 00:22:29 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 17:22:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit tree with yellow leaves Message-ID: <007601c2ffc0$7122b960$2831db43@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0073_01C2FF85.C3867F60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Kay, Citrus trees do not typically bear fruit until they have been in the = ground four to five years. The fruit that does set the tree will = automatically drop. As for fertilizer, grapefruit trees in their 2nd growing season should = only receive 2 to 4 tablespoons three times a year, the 3rd season the = tree can be fertilized with 1/2 pound of actual nitrogen for the entire = year applied three times. This would translate into 2 1/2 pounds if the = fertilizer formulation were 21/0/0. It is normal for citrus to have some yellow on the leaves during winter. = However over watering could also be causing excessive yellowing. Ironite = applied during the winter does little good since the soils are too cool = to allow the tree to take up iron.=20 A bulletin titled CITRUS TREES IN THE HOME GARDEN has excellent info = about citrus care and is available for $1.00 from U. of A., Maricopa = County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040.=20 On line is a bulletin which will tell you how much water to apply to = your citrus: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ------=_NextPart_000_0073_01C2FF85.C3867F60 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Kay,
Citrus trees do not typically bear fruit until they = have been=20 in the ground four to five years. The fruit that does set the tree will=20 automatically drop.
As for fertilizer, grapefruit trees in their 2nd = growing=20 season should only receive 2 to 4 tablespoons three times a year, the = 3rd season=20 the tree can be fertilized with 1/2 pound of actual nitrogen for the = entire year=20 applied three times. This would translate into 2 1/2 pounds if the=20 fertilizer formulation were 21/0/0.
It is normal for citrus to have some yellow on the = leaves=20 during winter. However over watering could also be causing excessive = yellowing.=20 Ironite applied during the winter does little good since the soils are = too cool=20 to allow the tree to take up iron.
A bulletin titled CITRUS TREES IN THE HOME GARDEN = has=20 excellent info about citrus care and is available for $1.00 from U. of = A.,=20 Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix=20 85040. 
On line is a bulletin which will tell you how much = water to=20 apply to your citrus:  http://ag.arizona.ed= u/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf
 
Good luck.
 
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
------=_NextPart_000_0073_01C2FF85.C3867F60-- From stenztemp@msn.com Fri Apr 11 03:15:09 2003 From: stenztemp@msn.com (stenztemp@msn.com) Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 20:15:09 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304110315.h3B3F8BK005234@Ag.arizona.edu> we live out in farm land and are getting many gophers that are eating our plants. I want to know if there is a list out that shows what plants are safe from the pests. Thanks From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Apr 11 17:29:03 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 17:29:03 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] gopher resistant plants Message-ID: Gophers will eat most garden plants - they typically feed on grasses, woody plant materials, and alfalfa. They can be excluded from small areas (like raised beds) with hardware cloth buried 18 to 20 inches. Habitat modification may help some -- reduce ground cover and weeds; use flooding to force gophers from burrows and expose to predators; encourage snakes, owls and hawks. You can find information on gophers and how to control them in our fact sheet, number Q403 which you can pick up at the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension site at 4341 E. Broadway Rd. in Phoenix, 85040 or by sending $1 to this address and requesting that a copy be mailed to you. You can also view a copy in the resource department at your local library. Trapping can be very effective. You can purchase a Macabee gopher trap at most hardware or feedstores. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: stenztemp@msn.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 20:15:09 -0700 (MST) > >we live out in farm land and are getting many gophers that are eating our >plants. I want to know if there is a list out that shows what plants are >safe from the pests. >Thanks > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Apr 11 17:35:33 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 17:35:33 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] pruning chuparosa (Justicia californica) Message-ID: from Eric A. Johnson's book, "Pruning, Planting and Care": Plants generally look best if left alone. To shape or control plants, wait until flowering is completed in the spring. With age some interior pruning stimulates production of new flowering wood. Do not prune hardwood excessively at any time. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: franya137@msn.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 16:40:59 -0700 (MST) > >Need information regarding care and maintenance of chuparosa. Should I cut >it back at any time? It seems to be taking over the area it is in. I have >it near an orange tree and a hummingbird feeder...hoping to get >hummingbirds. Does it need much water and should I fertilize like my other >flowering plants? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Apr 11 17:48:05 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 17:48:05 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] lawn Message-ID: A sod hybrid bermuda, such as E-Z Turf or Tifway, should work for you. You will need to prepare the ground, install the irrigation system, lay the sod and water frequently until roots are established. (and keep the dogs off the new lawn as much as possible while it is getting established). The Master Gardener Manual has a chapter on lawns: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html There are also some publications online or by mail: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Lc4fr@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 15:01:10 -0700 (MST) > >I am trying to grow a lawn in my backyard. When we first moved in there was >some grass, but that has all been killed by lack of watering and two big >dogs. I want a yard (because I am sick to death of the dirt and dust that >is everywhere. Of course the sprinkler heads have been eatten (Puppies are >very hard on yards) so I really need some help here. What kind of grass do >I need to plant, that Is sturdy, hardy, grows fast? How do I get the soil >ready for this, and how long can I expect to wait for a beautiful lush, dog >resistan yard. >Thank you for your help >Sherry > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Apr 11 17:57:47 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 17:57:47 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Thrips on Roses (organic) Message-ID: from "The Organic Gardener's Handbook": Spray weekly with insecticidal soap, or pyrethrin if necessary. >From: Stan Eissinger >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Thrips on Roses >Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 13:44:17 -0700 (PDT) > >Is there an organic mehtod of reducing thrip damage to roses? Thank You > > >--------------------------------- >Do you Yahoo!? >Yahoo! Tax Center - File online, calculators, forms, and more _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail From donnaanders@aol.com Fri Apr 11 18:00:04 2003 From: donnaanders@aol.com (donnaanders@aol.com) Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 11:00:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304111800.h3BI03BK001097@Ag.arizona.edu> How much water should a gardenia plant have in Phoenix? Ours has yellow leaves; has been planted for about 6 months, doesn't grow much. We've tried a gardenia before. Thanks! From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Apr 11 18:23:12 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 18:23:12 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] growing mango as houseplant Message-ID: If you can find "The After-Dinner Gardening Book" by Richard W. Langer, it has a chapter on raising mangoes as houseplants. Or, do an internet search of mango +houseplant for a number of articles on care. Usually there is only one sprout, but "multiple mango" does occur. You probably can leave them in the same pot to avoid damaging the young roots. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: gardenjargon@ameritech.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 06:17:49 -0700 (MST) > >Recently I purchased a mango, ate it, pulled out the seed, broke it in two >pieces in the process, planted it in starting medium and guess what, I have >sprouts. Do I just keep these in the same pot or are they all different >little mangos. What are my chances of getting a houseplant from this? >Thank you. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Apr 11 19:15:49 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 19:15:49 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] gardenia care Message-ID: Here is an earlier response to a similar question: Gardenias are difficult to grow in Southern Arizona. Morning sun and at least partial shade in the afternoons are necessary. They don't like our soil, our intense heat nor our water. A higher percentage of organic matter [up to 50% volume], particularly of slightly acidic material like peat moss or chipped bark is desirable. Pumice or vermiculite incorporated [up to 1/3 the soil mix] improved drainage. I have been taught that the gravel in the bottom is more to stop soil from running out drain holes. So you could use a pice of screen across the bottom and fill the whole pot with your mix. Water the plant thoroughly until the water drains and do NOT allow the water [with its leached salts] to be reabsorbed into the pot. Our fact sheet on camellias suggests incorporating some alkali neutralizing material like soil sulfur or iron sulfate. Phosphate is necessary, but not high levels of nitrogen. A mixed fertilizer is recommended ever 4 to 6 weeks during the active growing season. They are susceptible to iron chlorosis or foliage yellowing which is an indication that the watering interval should be lengthened. The appropriate pot size [diameter] for your gardenia is about 1/3 the height of the plant from its top to the soil line. Perhaps your pot isn't large enough? Our fact sheet MC 29 on Gardenias and Camellias can be ordered with instructions at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Sometimes your local public library will have a notebook with our Home Horticulture publications in the Reference area, call # 635. Linda Guy Master Gardener >From: donnaanders@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 11:00:04 -0700 (MST) > >How much water should a gardenia plant have >in Phoenix? Ours has yellow leaves; has been planted for about 6 months, >doesn't grow >much. We've tried a gardenia before. > >Thanks! > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail From stshirai@earthlink.net Fri Apr 11 21:35:05 2003 From: stshirai@earthlink.net (Stuart Shirai) Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 14:35:05 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] QUESTION: Australian Willow Leaves have gone brown, CAN IT BE SAVED? Message-ID: <001601c30072$37e40cf0$6401a8c0@cc394647a> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C30037.8B55E790 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Other discussion threads vary in opinion between too much and not enough = water. Would like to get your thoughts. Information follows: Please provide detailed information on: ~ Name and age of plant; Australian Willow, at least 4 years old ~ Description of the problem (when did it start, what parts of the plant are affected - new growth, outside leaves etc.) Most of the leaves have gone brown in the last couple of = weeks. The branches are still pliable. ~ Location of the plant (Southern Exposure, full sun) Front yard, full sun, near an embankment which holds water = in rather than letting it drain ~ How often you water the plant, where you apply the water, how much water is applied In the last couple of months it has been watered 2-3 times / = week, watered the entire yard by a rainbird style sprinkler running for = about 5 minutes. Plus hand watering for new annual plantings nearby. ~ Are other plants in the vicinity affected? No ~ Other things that might be affecting the plant - (trenching, fire, etc.) The tree was uprooted by Santa Ana winds several months ago. = I "replanted" the tree, covering the roots and put metal stakes on 3 = sides to a depth of 4', ran wire through some rubber hose and wired the = trunk between the stakes. Each stake is about 2' from the trunk of the = tree. Also in the last 4 -6 weeks we have experienced drenching rains = (El Nino?). ~ What do you think the problem might be a why The leaves have gone brown which it has never done before. = Reading your discussion thread (and others) indicate the possibility of = Texas Root Rot. IS THERE ANYTHING THAT CAN BE DONE TO SAVE THE TREE? Add'l info: We are in Southern California near Pasadena Thanks ------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C30037.8B55E790 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Other discussion threads vary in = opinion between=20 too much and not enough water.  Would like to get your = thoughts. =20 Information follows:
 
 
Please provide detailed information on:
~ Name and age of = plant;
        = Australian=20 Willow, at least 4 years old
~ Description of the = problem
(when did=20 it start, what parts of the plant are affected - new
growth, outside = leaves=20 etc.)
       =20     Most of the leaves have gone brown in the last couple = of=20 weeks.  The branches are still pliable.
~ Location of the = plant
(Southern Exposure, full sun)
       =20     Front yard, full sun, near an embankment which holds = water in=20 rather than letting it drain
~ How often you water the = plant,=20 where you apply the water, how much
water is applied
          &nbs= p; In the=20 last couple of months it has been watered 2-3 times / week, watered the = entire=20 yard by a rainbird style sprinkler running for about 5 = minutes.  Plus=20 hand watering for new annual plantings nearby.
~ Are other = plants in=20 the vicinity affected?
       =20     No
~ Other things that might be affecting = the plant=20 - (trenching, fire,
etc.)
       =20     The tree was uprooted by Santa Ana winds several = months=20 ago.  I "replanted" the tree, covering the roots and put metal = stakes on 3=20 sides to a depth of 4', ran wire through some rubber hose and wired the = trunk=20 between the stakes.  Each stake is about 2' from the trunk of the=20 tree.  Also in the last 4 -6 weeks we have experienced drenching = rains (El=20 Nino?).
~ What do you think the problem might be a why
        = The leaves=20 have gone brown which it has never done before.  Reading your = discussion=20 thread (and others) indicate the possibility of Texas Root = Rot.
 
IS THERE ANYTHING THAT CAN BE DONE TO = SAVE THE=20 TREE?
 
 
Add'l info:  We are in Southern = California=20 near Pasadena
 
Thanks


 

------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C30037.8B55E790-- From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Fri Apr 11 22:05:58 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 15:05:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Thrips on Roses Message-ID: <001e01c30076$898a77c0$1e31db43@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C3003B.DBBA5C80 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Stan, The American Rose Society recommends the use of either diazinon or = orthene for the control of thrips on roses, neither of which are = organic. I have used an organic spray which is made from the hohoba = plant called ERASE with some sucess. Erase also does a great job of = controlling powdery mildew with some sucess on aphids. I like this = product because it will take care of three nuisences and it is one of = the few products that will stop powdery mildew once it gets a start. To control thrips the rose buds must be sprayed frequently while in the = formative stage. Once the color starts to show on the bud it is almost = too late Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian . -----Original Message----- From: Stan Eissinger To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Friday, April 11, 2003 9:48 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Thrips on Roses Is there an organic mehtod of reducing thrip damage to roses? Thank = You=20 -------------------------------------------------------------------------= ----- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - File online, calculators, forms, and more ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C3003B.DBBA5C80 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Stan,
The American Rose Society recommends the use of = either=20 diazinon or orthene for the control of thrips on roses, neither of = which=20 are organic. I have used an organic spray which is made from the hohoba = plant=20 called ERASE with some sucess. Erase also does a great job of = controlling=20 powdery mildew with some sucess on aphids. I like this product because = it will=20 take care of three nuisences and it is one of the few products that will = stop=20 powdery mildew once it gets a start.
To control thrips the rose buds must be sprayed=20 frequently while in the formative stage. Once the color starts to = show on=20 the bud it is almost too late
 
Good luck.
 
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian
 
 
.
-----Original = Message-----
From:=20 Stan Eissinger <staneissinger@yahoo.com>To:=20 arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= =20 <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= >
Date:=20 Friday, April 11, 2003 9:48 AM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Thrips=20 on Roses

Is there an organic mehtod of reducing = thrip=20 damage to roses?  Thank You 



Do you Yahoo!?
Yah= oo! Tax=20 Center - File online, calculators, forms, and=20 more ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C3003B.DBBA5C80-- From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Fri Apr 11 22:32:56 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 15:32:56 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf for the low desert Message-ID: <002701c3007a$61e036c0$1e31db43@ibmbna6040> Sherry, Bermuda grass is the grass of choice for the low desert. If you intend to plant seed then common bermuda or one of the improved varieties is about your only choice. The hybrid bermudas such as Easy Turf, Bob Sod and others are only available as sod or stolens since the grass is sterile. Should you elect to go with sod, Bob Sod is probably the best choice for the heavy traffic of dogs, this is the grass used at Bank One Ballpark. Whatever you plant the grass must have plenty of water in order to survive. The dogs would have to be kept off the grass for 3 to 4 weeks after planting. The Master Gardener Manual's chapter on Lawns has great info on planting, soil preparation and maintenance and is available on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/ Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: Lc4fr@aol.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Friday, April 11, 2003 9:48 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I am trying to grow a lawn in my backyard. When we first moved in there was some grass, but that has all been killed by lack of watering and two big dogs. I want a yard (because I am sick to death of the dirt and dust that is everywhere. Of course the sprinkler heads have been eatten (Puppies are very hard on yards) so I really need some help here. What kind of grass do I need to plant, that Is sturdy, hardy, grows fast? How do I get the soil ready for this, and how long can I expect to wait for a beautiful lush, dog resistan yard. >Thank you for your help >Sherry > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From ASUsped@aol.com Sat Apr 12 14:40:59 2003 From: ASUsped@aol.com (ASUsped@aol.com) Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 10:40:59 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Thrips on Roses Message-ID: <190.18ad032f.2bc97f7b@aol.com> --part1_190.18ad032f.2bc97f7b_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Rod, where can we buy ERASE?...thank you,,,, Mike In a message dated 4/11/2003 3:58:00 PM US Mountain Standard Time, rodmmcq6@highstream.net writes: > Stan, > The American Rose Society recommends the use of either diazinon or orthene > for the control of thrips on roses, neither of which are organic. I have > used an organic spray which is made from the hohoba plant called ERASE with > some sucess. Erase also does a great job of controlling powdery mildew with > some sucess on aphids. I like this product because it will take care of > three nuisences and it is one of the few products that will stop powdery > mildew once it gets a start. > To control thrips the rose buds must be sprayed frequently while in the > formative stage. Once the color starts to show on the bud it is almost too > late > > Good luck. > > Rod McKusick > Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian > --part1_190.18ad032f.2bc97f7b_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
       Rod, where can we buy ERASE?...thank yo= u,,,, Mike

In a message dated 4/11/2003 3:58:00 PM US Mountain Standard Time, rodmmcq6@= highstream.net writes:


Stan,
The American Rose Society re= commends the use of either diazinon or orthene for the control of thrips on=20= roses, neither of which are organic. I have used an organic spray which is m= ade from the hohoba plant called ERASE with some sucess. Erase also does a g= reat job of controlling powdery mildew with some sucess on aphids. I like th= is product because it will take care of three nuisences and it is one of the= few products that will stop powdery mildew once it gets a start.
To control thrips the rose b= uds must be sprayed frequently while in the formative stage. Once the color=20= starts to show on the bud it is almost too late

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Consulti= ng Rosarian


--part1_190.18ad032f.2bc97f7b_boundary-- From tls925@cs.com Sat Apr 12 18:06:48 2003 From: tls925@cs.com (tls925@cs.com) Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 11:06:48 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304121806.h3CI5gBK007560@Ag.arizona.edu> Hi i am building a 1000 sq ft greenhouse made of aluminum frame, covered by shade cloth. my question is What percent % shade cloth do i use for a vegetable garden? 30%? 40%? 50%???? cant seem to get an answer, im in the fountain hills area and plan to grow the standard vegetables and fruits feb. thru june/july approx would like them to get done a little slow than without shade cloth, usually everything gets ripe in a week or two and gone. please help thanx steve From watsontl@mindspring.com Sat Apr 12 19:29:18 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 12:29:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200304121806.h3CI5gBK007560@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <006201c30129$d22ac0d0$e330b83f@S0029317241> When I gardened in the Phoenix metro area I used 75% over tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants to prevent sunscald, with excellent results. For squash and cucumber I found 50% more than adequate, but if you want uniformity, 75% will work for them too, again to prevent sunscald and heat stress. During the winter and early spring when we grew carrot, beets, and greens, we used no shade at all. The trick is to plant them early enough to get them through to harvest before it heats up. I'm not sure shading the plants will slow them down enough to stretch out the harvest. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, April 12, 2003 11:06 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Hi > i am building a 1000 sq ft greenhouse made of aluminum frame, covered by shade cloth. > my question is > > What percent % shade cloth do i use for a vegetable garden? > 30%? 40%? 50%???? > > cant seem to get an answer, im in the fountain hills area and plan to grow the standard vegetables and fruits feb. thru june/july approx > > would like them to get done a little slow than without shade cloth, usually everything gets ripe in a week or two and gone. > > please help > > thanx > steve > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From kalinaknows@yahoo.com Sat Apr 12 20:47:32 2003 From: kalinaknows@yahoo.com (kalinaknows@yahoo.com) Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 13:47:32 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304122047.h3CKlVBK024394@Ag.arizona.edu> What do you do about going between rye & burmuda to keep it green in between. Can I just put fertilizer on it and keep it green? How to get the burmuda greened up is my biggest question....thanks From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Sat Apr 12 21:34:47 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 14:34:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] QUESTION: Australian Willow Leaves have gone brown, CAN IT BE SAVED? Message-ID: <002a01c3013b$6c77e1c0$cf04e043@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0027_01C30100.AAF33840 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Stuart, >From the info that you furnished I find a watering error that could = cause the leaves on your Australian Willow to drop. You said that you = are watering 2 to 3 times a week for 5 minutes. That means that the = water at best is only penetrating 2 to 3 inches deep and the tree roots = are up to 2 feet deep and not getting watered adaquately. This tree = should be deep watered periodically to a depth of two to three feet = which means if you do not have a drip system to the tree lay a water = hose at the tree and let it run slowly over night.=20 The small amount of water being applied to your turf is bad for it. = Water for turf should penetrate 6 to 8 inches. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist -----Original Message----- From: Stuart Shirai To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Friday, April 11, 2003 3:49 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] QUESTION: Australian Willow Leaves have gone = brown, CAN IT BE SAVED? Other discussion threads vary in opinion between too much and not = enough water. Would like to get your thoughts. Information follows: Please provide detailed information on: ~ Name and age of plant; Australian Willow, at least 4 years old ~ Description of the problem (when did it start, what parts of the plant are affected - new growth, outside leaves etc.) Most of the leaves have gone brown in the last couple of = weeks. The branches are still pliable. ~ Location of the plant (Southern Exposure, full sun) Front yard, full sun, near an embankment which holds water = in rather than letting it drain ~ How often you water the plant, where you apply the water, how much water is applied In the last couple of months it has been watered 2-3 times = / week, watered the entire yard by a rainbird style sprinkler running = for about 5 minutes. Plus hand watering for new annual plantings = nearby. ~ Are other plants in the vicinity affected? No ~ Other things that might be affecting the plant - (trenching, fire, etc.) The tree was uprooted by Santa Ana winds several months = ago. I "replanted" the tree, covering the roots and put metal stakes on = 3 sides to a depth of 4', ran wire through some rubber hose and wired = the trunk between the stakes. Each stake is about 2' from the trunk of = the tree. Also in the last 4 -6 weeks we have experienced drenching = rains (El Nino?). ~ What do you think the problem might be a why The leaves have gone brown which it has never done before. = Reading your discussion thread (and others) indicate the possibility of = Texas Root Rot. IS THERE ANYTHING THAT CAN BE DONE TO SAVE THE TREE? Add'l info: We are in Southern California near Pasadena Thanks =20 ------=_NextPart_000_0027_01C30100.AAF33840 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Stuart,
From the info that you furnished I find a watering = error that=20 could cause the leaves on your Australian Willow to drop. You said = that you=20 are watering 2 to 3 times a week for 5 minutes. That means that the = water at=20 best is only penetrating 2 to 3 inches deep and the tree roots are up to = 2 feet=20 deep and not getting watered adaquately. This tree should=20 be deep watered periodically to a depth of two to three feet = which=20 means if you do not have a drip system to the tree lay a water hose at = the tree=20 and let it run slowly over night.
The small amount of water being applied to your turf = is bad=20 for it. Water for turf should penetrate 6 to 8 inches.
 
Good luck.
 
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
-----Original = Message-----
From:=20 Stuart Shirai <stshirai@earthlink.net>
= To:=20 arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= =20 <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= >
Date:=20 Friday, April 11, 2003 3:49 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener]=20 QUESTION: Australian Willow Leaves have gone brown, CAN IT BE=20 SAVED?

Other discussion threads vary in = opinion between=20 too much and not enough water.  Would like to get your = thoughts. =20 Information follows:
 
 
Please provide detailed information on:
~ Name and age of = plant;
        = Australian=20 Willow, at least 4 years old
~ Description of the = problem
(when=20 did it start, what parts of the plant are affected - new
growth, = outside=20 leaves etc.)
        =     Most of the leaves have gone brown in the last = couple of=20 weeks.  The branches are still pliable.
~ Location of = the=20 plant
(Southern Exposure, full sun)
        =     Front yard, full sun, near an embankment which = holds water=20 in rather than letting it drain
~ How often you water = the=20 plant, where you apply the water, how much
water is applied
          &nbs= p; In=20 the last couple of months it has been watered 2-3 times / week, = watered the=20 entire yard by a rainbird style sprinkler running for about 5=20 minutes.  Plus hand watering for new annual plantings = nearby.
~=20 Are other plants in the vicinity affected?
        =     No
~ Other things that might be affecting = the=20 plant - (trenching, fire,
etc.)
        =     The tree was uprooted by Santa Ana winds several = months=20 ago.  I "replanted" the tree, covering the roots and put metal = stakes on=20 3 sides to a depth of 4', ran wire through some rubber hose and wired = the=20 trunk between the stakes.  Each stake is about 2' from the trunk = of the=20 tree.  Also in the last 4 -6 weeks we have experienced drenching = rains=20 (El Nino?).
~ What do you think the problem might be a = why
        = The leaves=20 have gone brown which it has never done before.  Reading your = discussion=20 thread (and others) indicate the possibility of Texas Root = Rot.
 
IS THERE ANYTHING THAT CAN BE DONE TO = SAVE THE=20 TREE?
 
 
Add'l info:  We are in Southern = California=20 near Pasadena
 
Thanks


 

------=_NextPart_000_0027_01C30100.AAF33840-- From son@webworldinc.com Sun Apr 13 06:24:08 2003 From: son@webworldinc.com (son@webworldinc.com) Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 23:24:08 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304130624.h3D6O7BK028469@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a eucaliptus tree in front. I had read that they can exude hormones that stunt the growth of other plants, and I suspect that is happening to my front yard. I rent, so I can't just take the tree out. I thought I would dig out the beds and replace the dirt with uncontaminated soil, but the tree's roots will just grow back in unless I block them with something. I thought of using some sort of weedblock, but are any strong enough to withstand a tree's roots? From dkjoynt@juno.com Sun Apr 13 17:21:49 2003 From: dkjoynt@juno.com (dkjoynt@juno.com) Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2003 10:21:49 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304131721.h3DHLmBK023665@Ag.arizona.edu> We have several different trees in our yard. One is a Eucalyptus, one is a purple Plum, one an Az. ash and one a Brazilian pepper. Do each of these trees require different watering times? Our Brazilian pepper is close to one year old and hasn't done one thing. (grow or die) The trunk is only 1" around, is this OK? Thanks for your advise From eissinger1@netzero.net Sun Apr 13 18:04:13 2003 From: eissinger1@netzero.net (eissinger1) Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2003 11:04:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rusty Rose Message-ID: <04d801c301e7$17aa8470$c9513542@EISSINGER> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_04D5_01C301AC.6AB0A4F0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have an antique rose, Mainden's Blush , in its second year that did = not fully leaf out this spring. Many of the new leaves have rusty edges, = and some of the new leaves show the characteristic dark green veins of = iron deficiency. It also appears that many of the new buds are drying up = and will die. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thak You ------=_NextPart_000_04D5_01C301AC.6AB0A4F0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I have an antique rose, Mainden's Blush = , in its=20 second year that did not fully leaf out this spring. Many of the new = leaves have=20 rusty edges, and some of the new leaves show the characteristic dark = green veins=20 of iron deficiency. It also appears that many of the new buds are drying = up and=20 will die. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thak=20 You
------=_NextPart_000_04D5_01C301AC.6AB0A4F0-- From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Sun Apr 13 19:11:37 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2003 12:11:37 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rye grass to bermuda grass Message-ID: <000a01c301f0$8330d420$3a04e043@ibmbna6040> If you haven't fertilized in the last 30 days apply 1/2 pound of actual nitrogen fertilizer per 1000 square feet to your grass, if you are using a fertilizer with a 21/0/0 formulation this would translate into 2 1/2 pounds of fertilizer. Lower the cutting height of your mower to 1 to 1 1/2 inches in 2 stages. Lowering the cutting height will expose the newly emerging bermuda grass to the sun thus helping it grow and help the transition from rye grass to bermuda grass. The bermuda is naturally a lighter green than the rye so it does look pale compared to the rye. The bermuda is slow in greening up because the soil temperature is still lower than the optimum for bermuda growth. Don't forget to apply more fertilizer in 30 dayes. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: kalinaknows@yahoo.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Saturday, April 12, 2003 1:57 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >What do you do about going between rye & burmuda to keep it green in between. Can I just put fertilizer on it and keep it green? How to get the burmuda greened up is my biggest question....thanks > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From caseyrowe@aol.com Sun Apr 13 19:03:39 2003 From: caseyrowe@aol.com (caseyrowe@aol.com) Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2003 12:03:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304131903.h3DJ3cBK004205@Ag.arizona.edu> Several years ago, we planted a small apricot tree, variety unknown. The fruit is small, but of excellent quality. Four years ago, we had a handful of fruit. The following year, over 100. then, nothing for two years, although blossoms appeared. This year, we saw several small green fruit soon after blossoms, but today I could not find one of them. I did see a tiny fruit at one blossom site. The tree appears to thrive, with healthy-looking leaves. I suspect a pollination problem, but don't know how to be sure, or solve. Any suggestions? From jmd754@worldnet.att.net Sun Apr 13 20:30:31 2003 From: jmd754@worldnet.att.net (jmd754@worldnet.att.net) Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2003 13:30:31 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304132030.h3DKUUBK013479@Ag.arizona.edu> We had zoysia sod put down last april. there are seed pods on alot of the lawn. Does zoysia go to seed when it is long or is this a weed or another type of grass. From belindab7@cox.net Mon Apr 14 01:30:48 2003 From: belindab7@cox.net (belindab7@cox.net) Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2003 18:30:48 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304140130.h3E1UkBK017730@Ag.arizona.edu> Hello. I am currently building in (the city of Maricopa) --- home will be done by August, at the latest (we hope). Would appreciate some guidance on plants/trees: 1. By withholding water on mesquite trees, may I control its growth? (If I want to keep it smaller, by less/no water, will it still be healthy looking but SMALLER?) 2. We have west exposure that is MOSTLY SHADE due to a 2-story home. It receives 2-3 hours of sun daily. May I have: bouganvilla other FLOWERING plants/shrubs with this 2-3 hour of sun limit? 4. DO you offhand know of soil make-up of Maricopa (city of) area? much caliche, etc? (I thought I would bring in soil sample down the road.) 5. Should I wait until at least October to plant anything due to our (lovely yet hot) summer? 6. May I buy things NOW but keep them in their original containers until I plant them? (Am concerned will not be able to find the plants that I am seeing NOW during month of October.) THANKS MUCH for any advice you have. :-) From carolpu@comcast.com Mon Apr 14 01:49:19 2003 From: carolpu@comcast.com (carolpu@comcast.com) Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2003 18:49:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304140149.h3E1nHBK019883@Ag.arizona.edu> We built 3 steps out of landscaping timbers 10 feet wide by approximately 30 feet long in front of our house. Instead of tearing them all apart this year on account of tearing up my plants, and cost, can you suggest any thing we can do to make them more pleasant looking? I really don't like the look of the wood, I wish we would of used some kind of block. Thanks! From Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com Mon Apr 14 16:49:46 2003 From: Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com (Zelhart Alan-rpcs30) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 09:49:46 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rusty Rose Message-ID: <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B9930705AC5C4E@az33exm25.corp.mot.com> This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C302A5.DB2C6026 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" How much are you watering this rose? What are you feeding it in the way of fertilizer? Have you had a soil test done in your garden, to determine what your soil lacks? Chat with you later, Alan -- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ----- Alan Zelhart gizmoaz@cox.net Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- In God we trust; all others pay cash -----Original Message----- From: eissinger1 [mailto:eissinger1@netzero.net] Sent: Sunday, April 13, 2003 11:04 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rusty Rose I have an antique rose, Mainden's Blush , in its second year that did not fully leaf out this spring. Many of the new leaves have rusty edges, and some of the new leaves show the characteristic dark green veins of iron deficiency. It also appears that many of the new buds are drying up and will die. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thak You ------_=_NextPart_001_01C302A5.DB2C6026 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1"
How much are you watering this rose?  What are you feeding it in the way of fertilizer?  Have you had a soil test done in your garden, to determine what your soil lacks?
 
Chat with you later,
Alan
--
Chandler, Arizona        Sunset Zone: 13
http://www.GardenersCorner.com
-----
Alan Zelhart      
gizmoaz@cox.net
Gardens Co-listowner
http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html
-----
  In God we trust; all others pay cash
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: eissinger1 [mailto:eissinger1@netzero.net]
Sent: Sunday, April 13, 2003 11:04 AM
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rusty Rose

I have an antique rose, Mainden's Blush , in its second year that did not fully leaf out this spring. Many of the new leaves have rusty edges, and some of the new leaves show the characteristic dark green veins of iron deficiency. It also appears that many of the new buds are drying up and will die. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thak You
------_=_NextPart_001_01C302A5.DB2C6026-- From gclugston@hotmail.com Mon Apr 14 19:17:27 2003 From: gclugston@hotmail.com (Greg Clugston) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 12:17:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] What is weeping from my Mesquite Tree? Message-ID:
I have two mature mesquite trees age unkown that have been weeping a dark red substance from its bark.  I have not trummed or pruned these trees recently and am wondering if this is normal or if the trees are sick.  Other trees on the property are ok.  What is this?


MSN 8 helps ELIMINATE E-MAIL VIRUSES. Get 2 months FREE*. From olin" Message-ID: <000e01c302cb$376fb430$ee50530c@olin> Following is a quote from http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1269/ q.v. "Most deciduous fruit and nut trees from temperate climates require a genetically determined amount of cold weather (chill hours) to set fruit. While there is still some disagreement in the scientific community around how to precisely calculate chill hours, a good rule of thumb is to count the number of hours between November 1st and February 15th that are between 32 deg. and 45 deg F. These hours are cumulative and need not be continuous. The most benefit is derived from chilling hours occurring in December and January. Daytime temperatures above 600 F during this period may negatively affect the cumulative total. Most areas of Maricopa County average between 300 to 400 chilling hours per year. By selecting varieties of fruit that require around 250 hours of chilling to set fruit you can be sure of a full crop almost every year." Many, perhaps most, apricots require a winter chill of 500 hours or more, usually calculated as the accumulated number of hours the temps were below 40 deg. F during the winter months. Publication AZ1260 lists a few that require less but they are still pretty iffy unless we have a exceptionally cool winter. The past months of November, December, and February were pretty cool but January had lots of warm days which would cancel some of the chill hours from the other months. I suspect your problem is simply not enough winter chill hours. I once had a "300-hour" chill apricot tree that only produced 3-4 times during its 12-year life. And we live in one of those "colder Valley locations" the weather report readers talk about on TV. The apricot tree may not be very productive but it is a very nice, medium-sized, deciduous shade tree with lateral, nearly horizontal lower branches and a dense canopy. Olin Miller ===================================================== ----- Original Message ----- From: To: > Several years ago, we planted a small apricot tree, variety unknown. The fruit is small, but of excellent quality. Four years ago, we had a handful of fruit. The following year, over 100. then, nothing for two years, although blossoms appeared. This year, we saw several small green fruit soon after blossoms, but today I could not find one of them. I did see a tiny fruit at one blossom site. The tree appears to thrive, with healthy-looking leaves. I suspect a pollination problem, but don't know how to be sure, or solve. Any suggestions? From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Mon Apr 14 21:53:05 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 14:53:05 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Apricot tree not bearing fruit Message-ID: <002d01c302d0$3bb24da0$3f1d0a3f@ibmbna6040> Casey, You did not say where you live, but if you live in the low desert of southern Arizona ( Phoenix area ) I would suspect that the variety of apricot that you planted is not rated with low enough chilling hours. What this means is that the variety of apricot that you planted would set fruit if the winters were colder. Could it be that the year that you had lots of fruit the winter was colder than normal ? The other extreme could be a possibility if you live at a higher elevation and the spring frosts have killed the blossoms. Since you have had ample fruit set one year polination is not the problem. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: caseyrowe@aol.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, April 14, 2003 8:24 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Several years ago, we planted a small apricot tree, variety unknown. The fruit is small, but of excellent quality. Four years ago, we had a handful of fruit. The following year, over 100. then, nothing for two years, although blossoms appeared. This year, we saw several small green fruit soon after blossoms, but today I could not find one of them. I did see a tiny fruit at one blossom site. The tree appears to thrive, with healthy-looking leaves. I suspect a pollination problem, but don't know how to be sure, or solve. Any suggestions? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From olin" Message-ID: <001b01c302d1$65ddc900$ee50530c@olin> ----- Original Message ----- From: >... > I am currently building in (the city of Maricopa) --- home will be done by August, at the latest (we hope). > Would appreciate some guidance on plants/trees: > > 1. By withholding water on mesquite trees, may I control its growth? (If I want to keep it smaller, by less/no water, will it still be healthy looking but SMALLER?) Our native mesquites, once established, will do okay with no supplemental irrigation. > 2. We have west exposure that is MOSTLY SHADE due to a 2-story home. It receives 2-3 hours of sun daily. May I have: > bouganvilla > other FLOWERING plants/shrubs with this 2-3 hour of sun limit? Bougainvillea needs full sun to develop the best display of the colorful bracts. Most blooming plants will also need more than 2-3 hours of sunlight. Recommend you visit one of the shaded areas in garden centers in Phoenix to see what is in bloom and looks good to you. Baker Nursery on 40 ST and Summer Winds (the one on N Tatum) always have good, well maintained plant selections and knowledgeable staff. Where's No. 3? > 4. DO you offhand know of soil make-up of Maricopa (city of) area? much caliche, etc? (I thought I would bring in soil sample down the road.) Most of our native desert soil has a high pH (typically around ph 8), has very little Nitrogen, a little Phosphorous, plenty of Potash and a very thin layer of top soil. Many areas also have a caliche layer which is an impervious layer of cemented calcium carbonate that needs to be removed before planting vegetables or flower beds. When planting trees or shrubs, one can sometimes punch a hole through the caliche layer at the bottom of the planting hole to provide drainage to prevent water-logged roots. See http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/soiltest.htm for locations of some soil testing facilities. > 5. Should I wait until at least October to plant anything due to our (lovely yet hot) summer? Landscapers will plant transplant just about any plant from containers at any month of the year. But if you are doing it yourself, the success rate will be better for most trees and shrubs if you wait until October through February. Exceptions are most of the desert plants like the cacti and agaves and some drought resistant shrubs can be planted now. > 6. May I buy things NOW but keep them in their original containers until I plant them? (Am concerned will not be able to find the plants that I am seeing NOW during month of October.) I would let the professionals take care of the plants during the hot summer months and wait until planting time (November through February) to buy the plants. The garden centers mentioned in the reply to No. 2 (above) will have a good selection at the right time. Olin Miller From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Mon Apr 14 22:11:47 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 15:11:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Watering Landscape trees Message-ID: <003201c302d2$d878f7e0$3f1d0a3f@ibmbna6040> The plum tree is probably the most water sensative, however the others will survive on the same schedule as the plum as long as you deep water them all. A free booklet titled LANDSCAPE WATERING BY THE NUMBERS is available at most nurseries and the water conservation office of your city. This booklet provides some of the best info available on landscape watering. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: dkjoynt@juno.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, April 14, 2003 8:24 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >We have several different trees in our yard. One is a Eucalyptus, one is a purple Plum, one an Az. ash and one a Brazilian pepper. Do each of these trees require different watering times? Our Brazilian pepper is close to one year old and hasn't done one thing. (grow or die) The trunk is only 1" around, is this OK? >Thanks for your advise > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From shutrbugg@earthlink.net Mon Apr 14 22:05:46 2003 From: shutrbugg@earthlink.net (shutrbugg@earthlink.net) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 15:05:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304142205.h3EM5kBK003096@Ag.arizona.edu> Hello, I was wondering if you had any information on the benefits of earthworms in the yard? I am hoping that they would help loosen the soil and help with the water staying, help the grass grow and to help decompose animal waste. Any information? Where does one buy earthworms in Arizona?? From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Mon Apr 14 22:20:58 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 15:20:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] What is weeping from my Mesquite Tree? Message-ID: <003f01c302d4$20a34880$3f1d0a3f@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_003C_01C30299.73410A40 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Greg, It is normal for the mesquite tree to weep sap, nothing to worry about. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: Greg Clugston To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, April 14, 2003 2:18 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] What is weeping from my Mesquite Tree? I have two mature mesquite trees age unkown that have been weeping a = dark red substance from its bark. I have not trummed or pruned these = trees recently and am wondering if this is normal or if the trees are = sick. Other trees on the property are ok. What is this? -------------------------------------------------------------------------= ----- MSN 8 helps ELIMINATE E-MAIL VIRUSES. Get 2 months FREE*. = _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing = list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu = http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener=20 ------=_NextPart_000_003C_01C30299.73410A40 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Greg,
It is normal for the mesquite tree to weep sap, = nothing to=20 worry about.
 
Good luck.
 
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
-----Original = Message-----
From:=20 Greg Clugston <gclugston@hotmail.com>
To:=20 arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= =20 <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= >
Date:=20 Monday, April 14, 2003 2:18 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = What is=20 weeping from my Mesquite Tree?

I have two mature mesquite trees age unkown that have been = weeping a dark=20 red substance from its bark.  I have not trummed or pruned these = trees=20 recently and am wondering if this is normal or if the trees are = sick. =20 Other trees on the property are ok.  What is this?


MSN 8 helps ELIMINATE = E-MAIL VIRUSES.=20 Get 2 months FREE*. = _______________________________________________=20 Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu=20 http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener = ------=_NextPart_000_003C_01C30299.73410A40-- From Howard@CapsuleConnection.com Mon Apr 14 23:12:49 2003 From: Howard@CapsuleConnection.com (Howard@CapsuleConnection.com) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 16:12:49 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304142312.h3ENCnBK020434@Ag.arizona.edu> Do you have a list of suppliers of composting earthworms in the Phoenix area? From BJHydro@Juno.Com Tue Apr 15 17:23:06 2003 From: BJHydro@Juno.Com (BJHydro@Juno.Com) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 10:23:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304151723.h3FHN6BK022605@Ag.arizona.edu> Am I able to print out Roots and Shoots and the Communicator so I can read them at home? What computer address do I use? Thank you. From creel.larry@ev.state.az.us Tue Apr 15 22:50:29 2003 From: creel.larry@ev.state.az.us (creel.larry@ev.state.az.us) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 15:50:29 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304152250.h3FMoTBK014138@Ag.arizona.edu> Looking for a nice evergreen, flowering border type of hedge to go in front of my house. Any suggestions? Thanks From groes@mail.uca.edu Wed Apr 16 14:14:10 2003 From: groes@mail.uca.edu (groes@mail.uca.edu) Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 07:14:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304161414.h3GEEABK007063@Ag.arizona.edu> I am trying to find an heirloom variety of blue corn grown which I know was grown in Arizona in the 1960s. It is called "Mexican Blue" corn. Could you please help me to find this variety or direct me to some agencies or preservation societies which might be able to help me find the seed? Any help at all would be greatly appreciated. I am willing to try any possible avenue to find this seed. From jarias20@cox.net Wed Apr 16 22:49:41 2003 From: jarias20@cox.net (jarias20@cox.net) Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 15:49:41 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304162249.h3GMnfBK009096@Ag.arizona.edu> Plant: Ficus Nitida Macrocarpa Location: Container, west side of property Exposure: Full Sun Physical features: ~ 2 1/4 m height, ~4 cm. trunk diameter, age at least 3 years, canopy is sparse, most growth on one side. Issue: A vertical half of the sparse canopy was damaged by exposure to full sunlight. This resulted in minimal growth on 1/2 of the canopy. Questions: How do I generate new growth on damaged side of canopy? Do I completely prune all damaged branches? Do I need only to prune the top few inches of the primary or center branch? I have received 2 different answers from personnel at 2 different nurseries-Moon Valley & Treeland. Should I move the tree to a shaded or partially shaded area until it recovers? From cbi64i@cox.net Thu Apr 17 00:41:50 2003 From: cbi64i@cox.net (cbi64i@cox.net) Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 17:41:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304170041.h3H0foBK002051@Ag.arizona.edu> three weeks ago i planted a hibiscus tree. i was told to water well for a week which i did and then to water as needed. the tree started lookung like it was dying,the leaves were curling, drying out and falling off. the same happened to the buds. after the plant did not seem to respond i brought another twig to the nursery..theu told me to water it daily for another week. still no change..what should i do to save this? From lizardacre@sprintmail.com Thu Apr 17 04:49:41 2003 From: lizardacre@sprintmail.com (Kevin Countryman) Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 21:49:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] choice of yuccas and agaves Message-ID: <410-22003441744941180@sprintmail.com>

I'd like to know which commercially available, if any, yuccas and/or agaves can be planted now and eventually (after the first year or two) not need to be watered at all.  I want to do extreme xeriscape!

Thanks,

Lizard Acre

From jmahaffey@hotmail.com Thu Apr 17 13:26:57 2003 From: jmahaffey@hotmail.com (jmahaffey@hotmail.com) Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 06:26:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304171326.h3HDQvBK029749@Ag.arizona.edu> A freind of mine told me about a plant called Brazos Berry, but I can find no information about it up here in Northern Arizona (4500 feet). Can you give me any sources that exist? JIM From rgross@u.arizona.edu Fri Apr 18 04:03:05 2003 From: rgross@u.arizona.edu (Richard Gross) Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 21:03:05 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oleander Message-ID: Hello. I found this link on the Web and hope it is still active. If you are kind enough to reply, the correct address for the mailing list would be very helpful. I am writing for help with three young oleanders all of whom are showing totally yellow leaves this spring, all the while with apparently healthy new grown. Water situation seems adequate and I am concerned about scorch or chlorosis. They are all planted above an imposing layer of caleche, but with at least 18-24" of sandy soil. Thanks for helping. Rich U. of A. College of Medicine rgross@u.arizona.edu From rdapjohnson3@cox.net Fri Apr 18 05:02:45 2003 From: rdapjohnson3@cox.net (rdapjohnson3@cox.net) Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 22:02:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304180502.h3I52jvv005021@Ag.arizona.edu> My roses had nice green leaves and looked wonderful this spring. The buds were full and I thought I was going to have beautiful flowers. Then the tips of the buds turned brown, and the new growth leaves around the buds seemed to shrivel a little. The blooms seem okay, but not quite full size and the edges are brown. Why is this happening? What can I do about it? Thank you! From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Fri Apr 18 18:01:45 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 11:01:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Eucalyptus tree stunting other plants growth Message-ID: <000601c305d4$a8e08d40$3e04e043@ibmbna6040> I don't find anything in texts or University of Arizona publications that indicate that the eucalyptus tree causes allelopathic reaction in other plants. The very invasive roots of the eucalyptus tree are no doubt causing plants that are planted in the root zone to become stunted. I've experienced similiar problems with shrubs as well as turf planted near eucalyptus trees. I've solved the problem with turf by giving the tree as well as the turf additional water. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: son@webworldinc.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, April 14, 2003 8:23 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I have a eucaliptus tree in front. I had read that they can exude hormones that stunt the growth of other plants, and I suspect that is happening to my front yard. I rent, so I can't just take the tree out. I thought I would dig out the beds and replace the dirt with uncontaminated soil, but the tree's roots will just grow back in unless I block them with something. I thought of using some sort of weedblock, but are any strong enough to withstand a tree's roots? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From pabaferd@juno.com Fri Apr 18 19:23:22 2003 From: pabaferd@juno.com (pabaferd@juno.com) Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 12:23:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304181923.h3IJNMvv002749@Ag.arizona.edu> Can plastic packing peanuts (squggles) be used to lighten the soil...i.e. help aerate the soil as well as making the container less heavy to move? I'm wondering if the plastic would be harmful to plants? Thank you. From olin" Message-ID: <003501c305fe$56a28770$8150530c@olin> Native seeds/SEARCH in Tucson and Abundant Life in Port Townsend WA have a half dozen varieties of blue flour corn. I have had good success growing their Acoma blue and Hopi blue corn which may or may not be the same as Mexican Blue. URLs and phone numbers: www.nativeseeds.org Tucson Phone; 520-622-5561 http://www.abundantlifeseed.org Port Townsend phone: 360-385-5660 Olin Miller ----- Original Message ----- From: > I am trying to find an heirloom variety of blue corn grown which I know was grown in Arizona in the 1960s. It is called "Mexican Blue" corn. Could you please help me to find this variety or direct me to some agencies or preservation societies which might be able to help me find the seed? Any help at all would be greatly appreciated. I am willing to try any possible avenue to find this seed. From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Sat Apr 19 16:32:58 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2003 09:32:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rose blossoms with brown edges Message-ID: <001001c30691$57f367a0$1aa9db43@ibmbna6040> The brown edges that you are seeing on your rose blooms especially the lighter colored ones is caused by a tiny insect called thrips, so small that you can barely see it. The thrips can be controlled by spraying the buds soon after they are formed with an insecticide such as orthene or diazanon. This must be done at least once a week, once the color starts to show it is too late to do much good. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian -----Original Message----- From: rdapjohnson3@cox.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Friday, April 18, 2003 2:00 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >My roses had nice green leaves and looked wonderful this spring. The buds were full and I thought I was going to have beautiful flowers. Then the tips of the buds turned brown, and the new growth leaves around the buds seemed to shrivel a little. The blooms seem okay, but not quite full size and the edges are brown. Why is this happening? What can I do about it? Thank you! > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From sallybreyer@hotmail.com Sat Apr 19 16:45:43 2003 From: sallybreyer@hotmail.com (sallybreyer@hotmail.com) Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2003 09:45:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304191645.h3JGjhvv017306@Ag.arizona.edu> Hi, I have a number of geranium plants planted outside. They were in gallon pots in the fall and are in good shape right now, although the flowers size is not as robust as earlier in the season. I have heard that I could bring them in during the summer and then replant them in the fall. Any advice as to how to do this and on the success of this would be appreciated . From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Sat Apr 19 17:39:41 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2003 10:39:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oleander Message-ID: <004c01c3069a$bd412800$1aa9db43@ibmbna6040> Rich, I suspect that you have over watered your oleanders. With the layer of caliche below even though it is down 18 to 24 inches you probably do not have drainage. You must be very careful how much water is applied. The layer of caliche may continually cause problems unless you can poke a hole through it for drainage. Since the new growth looks healthy I would not be concerned about disease. Chlorosis is indicated by yellow leaves with green veins and is most often caused by keeping the roots on plants continually wet. Oleander Leaf Scorch is indicated by yellow drooping leaves that yellow from the tips and leaf margins inward as well as twig dieback. The margins turn a deep yellow and then brown and eventually die. The disease that causes Oleander Leaf scorch is vectored by an insect called sharpshooter that feeds on the water conducting tissue of the plant. Unfortunately there is no known cure. The disease is found mainly in southern California. Your question was posted on the U of A Maricopa County Cooperative Extension website whose url is http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: Richard Gross To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Friday, April 18, 2003 2:00 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oleander >Hello. I found this link on the Web and hope it is still active. If you >are kind enough to reply, the correct address for the mailing list >would be very helpful. > >I am writing for help with three young oleanders all of whom are >showing totally yellow leaves this spring, all the while with >apparently healthy new grown. Water situation seems adequate and I am >concerned about scorch or chlorosis. > >They are all planted above an imposing layer of caleche, but with at >least 18-24" of sandy soil. Thanks for helping. > >Rich > >U. of A. College of Medicine >rgross@u.arizona.edu > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From toddh@itoolsinc.com Sat Apr 19 18:28:41 2003 From: toddh@itoolsinc.com (toddh@itoolsinc.com) Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2003 11:28:41 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304191828.h3JISfvv000023@Ag.arizona.edu> I have seven 4-5 yearold grape vines. Although they produce well, the fruit is small and I understand there is something you can do to make the fruit bigger whether through hormones or combing the buds. Can you tell me how to do this? Thanks From YoMamma1000@aol.com Sat Apr 19 23:41:01 2003 From: YoMamma1000@aol.com (by way of Lucy Bradley ) Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2003 16:41:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] goat willow Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20030419164011.04534e98@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_33111101==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed have youever heard of a french pussywillow or a goat willow? if so do you know how i could purchase one? thankyou reba --=====================_33111101==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" have youever heard of a french pussywillow or a goat willow?   if so do you know how i could purchase one?
thankyou
reba
<YoMamma1000@aol.com> --=====================_33111101==_.ALT-- From louzembruski@juno.com Sun Apr 20 01:05:10 2003 From: louzembruski@juno.com (louzembruski@juno.com) Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2003 18:05:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304200105.h3K15Avv016365@Ag.arizona.edu> The cactus in our backyard,(they tell us is called a Roman Candle)has grown a tall spindly trunk. It looks like an asparagus.We have had this plant for about twenty years,but it has never produced this tall trunk which is now about ten feet tall. WE would appreciate any information you could give us. Thank you. From olin" Message-ID: <000e01c3070a$c440bbf0$4853530c@olin> Your plant is probably either an agave or a yucca - not a cactus. The "Roman Candle" yucca is "Yucca gloriosa" but once mature it blooms every year. There are lots of photos on the web. But you probably one of the many types of agaves that sends up an asparagus-like inflorescence once in its lifetime, then it dies. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > The cactus in our backyard,(they tell us is called a Roman Candle)has grown a tall spindly trunk. It looks like an asparagus.We have had this plant for about twenty years,but it has never produced this tall trunk which is now about ten feet tall. WE would appreciate any information you could give us. Thank you. From watsontl@mindspring.com Sun Apr 20 15:44:58 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 08:44:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oleander References: <004c01c3069a$bd412800$1aa9db43@ibmbna6040> Message-ID: <000a01c30753$cd586c30$db20b83f@S0029317241> Bad drainage would definitely explain the yellowing. The roots under such circumstances will not be getting enough oxygen, and oxygen-starved roots (among other things) do not pick up nutrients effectively. This is especially true of nitrogen, and would explain why the new growth looks good. The plants are probably scavenging nitrogen from older leaves and transporting it to new growth. So the old leaves will yellow and ultimately die, while the fresh grow looks healthy. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Richard Gross" Cc: Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2003 10:39 AM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Oleander > Rich, > I suspect that you have over watered your oleanders. With the layer of > caliche below even though it is down 18 to 24 inches you probably do not > have drainage. You must be very careful how much water is applied. The layer > of caliche may continually cause problems unless you can poke a hole through > it for drainage. > Since the new growth looks healthy I would not be concerned about disease. > Chlorosis is indicated by yellow leaves with green veins and is most often > caused by keeping the roots on plants continually wet. > Oleander Leaf Scorch is indicated by yellow drooping leaves that yellow from > the tips and leaf margins inward as well as twig dieback. The margins turn a > deep yellow and then brown and eventually die. The disease that causes > Oleander Leaf scorch is vectored by an insect called sharpshooter that feeds > on the water conducting tissue of the plant. Unfortunately there is no known > cure. The disease is found mainly in southern California. > > Your question was posted on the U of A Maricopa County Cooperative Extension > website whose url is http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ > > Good luck. > > Rod McKusick > Master Gardener > -----Original Message----- > From: Richard Gross > To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu > Date: Friday, April 18, 2003 2:00 PM > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oleander > > > >Hello. I found this link on the Web and hope it is still active. If you > >are kind enough to reply, the correct address for the mailing list > >would be very helpful. > > > >I am writing for help with three young oleanders all of whom are > >showing totally yellow leaves this spring, all the while with > >apparently healthy new grown. Water situation seems adequate and I am > >concerned about scorch or chlorosis. > > > >They are all planted above an imposing layer of caleche, but with at > >least 18-24" of sandy soil. Thanks for helping. > > > >Rich > > > >U. of A. College of Medicine > >rgross@u.arizona.edu > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Arid_gardener mailing list > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From watsontl@mindspring.com Sun Apr 20 15:54:37 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 08:54:37 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200304191645.h3JGjhvv017306@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <002501c30755$262d3f60$db20b83f@S0029317241> We grew geraniums in Phoenix for years without needing to do anything besides water and feed them properly and shade them from the afternoon sun. To do this we grew them on the east side of the house. A large bougainvilla to the south also provided some shade on the hottest days of summer. They did not bloom much during the peak of the summer, but the rest of the year were very productive. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2003 9:45 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Hi, > I have a number of geranium plants planted outside. They were in gallon pots in the fall and are in good shape right now, although the flowers size is not as robust as earlier in the season. I have heard that I could bring them in during the summer and then replant them in the fall. Any advice as to how to do this and on the success of this would be appreciated . > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From boahiss@earthlink.net Sun Apr 20 19:36:15 2003 From: boahiss@earthlink.net (Marcia Lincoln) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 12:36:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: blue corn References: <200304201552.h3KFqEvv016298@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <001101c30774$1b9c6160$6401a8c0@athlon2100> You will find that corn at Native Seeds Search in Tucson. They preserve heimloom seeds and have several varieties of blue corn listed in their catalog. Call them at 520-622-5561 or see their website at www.nativeseeds.org Marcia (Tucson) > I am trying to find an heirloom variety of blue corn grown which I know was grown in Arizona in the 1960s. It is called "Mexican Blue" corn. Could you please help me to find this variety or direct me to some agencies or preservation societies which might be able to help me find the seed? Any help at all would be greatly appreciated. I am willing to try any possible avenue to find this seed. From patrickrucker@hotmail.com Sun Apr 20 16:22:45 2003 From: patrickrucker@hotmail.com (patrickrucker@hotmail.com) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 09:22:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304201622.h3KGMjvv019649@Ag.arizona.edu> I am moving to north Scottsdale next month. Are vegetable gardens allowed in back yards? Thanks, and have a nice day! Pat From bjmoren@yahoo.com Sun Apr 20 17:18:51 2003 From: bjmoren@yahoo.com (bjmoren@yahoo.com) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 10:18:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304201718.h3KHIpvv025232@Ag.arizona.edu> I need suggestions for a non- messy tree that I can plant near (3-4 ft) to a swimming pool in a bed that is 2' x 10' feet and gets full sun. A shade tree would be preferred ---is this possible? Thanks if advance for your help. From masan@netcore.ca Sun Apr 20 17:34:25 2003 From: masan@netcore.ca (Masanovich) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 13:34:25 -0400 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fw: spring Message-ID: <001501c30763$16ff6960$b29fd8d1@wincom.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C30741.8F784B40 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable -----=20 Subject: spring Good Afternoon, I have a question thay you can hopefully answer. What happens to a = tree if it is sprayed with the combo-dormant oil and lime sulphur after = bud break? Thanks, Wally masan@netcore.ca ------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C30741.8F784B40 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
 
-----
 
 
Subject: spring

Good Afternoon,
      I have a = question thay you=20 can hopefully answer. What happens to a tree = if it is=20 sprayed with the combo-dormant oil and lime sulphur after bud=20 break?
          &nbs= p;            = ;            =             &= nbsp;        =20 Thanks,
          &nbs= p;            = ;            =             &= nbsp;           &n= bsp; =20 Wally
          &nbs= p;      =20 masan@netcore.ca
 
------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C30741.8F784B40-- From kirsten.shaw@cox.net Sun Apr 20 21:04:40 2003 From: kirsten.shaw@cox.net (kirsten.shaw@cox.net) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 14:04:40 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304202104.h3KL4evv018584@Ag.arizona.edu> I've heard several urban legends of the toxicity of oleanders, which make me leary of the plants. I recently moved and want to plant a vegetable garden in my new yard -- but it is surrounded by neighbors' oleanders. The area which is most suitable for a garden has masses of oleander roots. Is it possible for toxins produced by the plants to be released into the soil and then be taken up by the vegetable plants? From Namaste78@aol.com Mon Apr 21 01:54:19 2003 From: Namaste78@aol.com (Namaste78@aol.com) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 21:54:19 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] yellowing jacaranda Message-ID: <187.18a2ca3c.2bd4a94b@aol.com> --part1_187.18a2ca3c.2bd4a94b_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit My jacaranda tree is predominantly yellow-leafed. It is a mature tree and receives flood irrigation. I fertilize it periodically. Does it perhaps need iron? Thanks. --part1_187.18a2ca3c.2bd4a94b_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable My jacaranda tree is predominantly yellow-leaf= ed.  It is a mature tree and receives flood irrigation.  I fertili= ze it periodically.  Does it perhaps need iron?
Thanks.
--part1_187.18a2ca3c.2bd4a94b_boundary-- From MaryNightOwl2@aol.com Mon Apr 21 02:10:09 2003 From: MaryNightOwl2@aol.com (MaryNightOwl2@aol.com) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 19:10:09 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304210210.h3L2A9vv021068@Ag.arizona.edu> to whom it may concern, we are planning on relocating to AZ in june or early july.we are moving from northeast ohio ,we love to garden and plant gardens for all kinds of reasons, attracting birds,shade,color,texture and seasonal.we are wondering what zone az is in..our city we are moving to is queen creek.its going to be a lot of fun and of course hard work.could you please send some comments or at least the zone thank you doug From jay-deb@attbi.com Mon Apr 21 12:32:29 2003 From: jay-deb@attbi.com (Jay & Debbie) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 08:32:29 -0400 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Non-Flowering Iris' Message-ID: <3EA3E4DD.6060008@attbi.com> I was wondering if you could answer this question... I planted iris bulbs 5 years ago - every year the leaves come up but they never bloom. I am also having the same problem with the daffodils. The daffodils flowered last year but not this year. Any suggestions? Thank you, Debbie Gentry From Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com Mon Apr 21 15:39:25 2003 From: Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com (Zelhart Alan-rpcs30) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 08:39:25 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] yellowing jacaranda Message-ID: <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B9930705AC5FB9@az33exm25.corp.mot.com> This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C3081C.30246486 Content-Type: text/plain My Jacaranda tree generally has yellowing of leaves and looses them this time of year. If you watch really close, you should start seeing blooms forming at the tips of the branches. This is common for the Jacaranda tree, before it gets lush and green all over again, and regenerates new leaves. Chat with you later, Alan -- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ----- Alan Zelhart gizmoaz@cox.net Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- Why should I grow up ? This is more fun ! -----Original Message----- From: Namaste78@aol.com [mailto:Namaste78@aol.com] Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2003 6:54 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] yellowing jacaranda My jacaranda tree is predominantly yellow-leafed. It is a mature tree and receives flood irrigation. I fertilize it periodically. Does it perhaps need iron? Thanks. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C3081C.30246486 Content-Type: text/html
My Jacaranda tree generally has yellowing of leaves and looses them this time of year.  If you watch really close, you should start seeing blooms forming at the tips of the branches.  This is common for the Jacaranda tree, before it gets lush and green all over again, and regenerates new leaves.
 
Chat with you later,
Alan
--
Chandler, Arizona        Sunset Zone: 13
http://www.GardenersCorner.com
-----
Alan Zelhart      
gizmoaz@cox.net
Gardens Co-listowner
http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html
-----
  Why should I grow up ? This is more fun !
-----Original Message-----
From: Namaste78@aol.com [mailto:Namaste78@aol.com]
Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2003 6:54 PM
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: [Arid_gardener] yellowing jacaranda

My jacaranda tree is predominantly yellow-leafed.  It is a mature tree and receives flood irrigation.  I fertilize it periodically.  Does it perhaps need iron?
Thanks.
------_=_NextPart_001_01C3081C.30246486-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Apr 21 17:24:29 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 17:24:29 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] gardening zones Message-ID: Welcome! To get started gardening, go to: cals.arizona.edu/gardening for information about gardening in the southwest. We are in USDA Hardiness Zone 9, but that zone classification does not include heat tolerance so is of limited value in selecting plants. A better zone index is the Sunset Garden Zone. Phoenix is in Sunset Zone 13. Check your library or bookstore for the Sunset Western Gardening Book. It has information about zone 13 and the plants that will succeed. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: MaryNightOwl2@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 19:10:09 -0700 (MST) > >to whom it may concern, > we are planning on relocating to AZ in june or early july.we are moving >from northeast ohio ,we love to garden and plant gardens for all kinds of >reasons, attracting birds,shade,color,texture and seasonal.we are wondering >what zone az is in..our city we are moving to is queen creek.its going to >be a lot of fun and of course hard work.could you please send some comments >or at least the zone >thank you >doug > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Apr 21 17:31:36 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 17:31:36 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] oleander poisonous Message-ID: All parts of the oleander are toxic if eaten, but to my knowledge oleander does not produce any toxin that would get into the soil and then be taken up by vegetables and cause poisoning. Check the web for "oleander poison". Here is one site: http://mamba.bio.uci.edu/~pjbryant/biodiv/PLANTS2/Apocynaceae/Nerium_oleander.htm Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: kirsten.shaw@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 14:04:40 -0700 (MST) > >I've heard several urban legends of the toxicity of oleanders, which make >me leary of the plants. I recently moved and want to plant a vegetable >garden in my new yard -- but it is surrounded by neighbors' oleanders. The >area which is most suitable for a garden has masses of oleander roots. Is >it possible for toxins produced by the plants to be released into the soil >and then be taken up by the vegetable plants? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Mon Apr 21 17:31:13 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 10:31:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Low desert zone Message-ID: <002601c3082b$cff10140$aca9db43@ibmbna6040> Doug, The low desert area around Phoenix which includes Queen Creek is located in the Western Garden Book zone 13 and USDA zone 9. Here in the southwest we use the Western Garden ratings almost entirely because they better describe the zone taking into consideration the high temperatures as well as the low temps. Here you will have twice the enjoyment from gardening as you have in Ohio because we have two growing seasons, a hot season and a cool season, the cool season will more closely approximate what you have in Ohio. The first thing you must do is put your garden books from back east in storage and get a Western Garden Book which has great info on trees and plants that grow in the low desert as well as well as how to garden here in the southwest. Maricopa County Cooperative Extension ( whose website you addressed your question ) has great info on almost any gardening topic. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: MaryNightOwl2@aol.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, April 21, 2003 8:23 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >to whom it may concern, > we are planning on relocating to AZ in june or early july.we are moving from northeast ohio ,we love to garden and plant gardens for all kinds of reasons, attracting birds,shade,color,texture and seasonal.we are wondering what zone az is in..our city we are moving to is queen creek.its going to be a lot of fun and of course hard work.could you please send some comments or at least the zone >thank you >doug > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Apr 21 17:48:29 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 17:48:29 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] poolside planting Message-ID: Check this publication: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1058.pdf However, a planting space 2 x 10-feet and 4 feet from a pool is pretty tight for a tree. Have you thought about a trellis with vines to provide some shade? yellow morning glory vine or pink trumpet vine may work in this space. Plants are living things, so there will be some "mess" with any plant you choose. The plants listed in the publication minimize the messiness. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: bjmoren@yahoo.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 10:18:51 -0700 (MST) > >I need suggestions for a non- messy tree that I can plant near (3-4 ft) to >a swimming pool in a bed that is 2' x 10' feet and gets full sun. A shade >tree would be preferred ---is this possible? > >Thanks if advance for your help. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Apr 21 18:13:28 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 18:13:28 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Non-Flowering Iris' Message-ID: Are the iris getting plenty of sunshine? Insufficient sunlight could be one cause. Here is another possibility from an earlier question: Blooming is supported by the phosphate component of fertilizers. Additionally, too high a nitrogen component will also discourage bloom while encouraging vegetative growth. One of our old bulb publications recommended fertilizers with a 16-20-0 balance. The flowering time for narcissus is approximately Jan to May. You might try an application of fertilizer to see what might yet happen this year. Daffodils do not need to be removed from beds over the summer [unless they will be soaked and risk being rotted]. But you might consider separating the bulbs every 3-5 years or so in midsummer, after the leaves have browned. Next fall/winter apply some fertilizer as growth begins and repeat 2-3 times during the season to maintain good growth and promote bloom. Linda Guy Master Gardener >From: Jay & Debbie >To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Non-Flowering Iris' >Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 08:32:29 -0400 > >I was wondering if you could answer this question... > >I planted iris bulbs 5 years ago - every year the leaves come up but they >never bloom. > >I am also having the same problem with the daffodils. The daffodils >flowered last year but not this year. > >Any suggestions? > >Thank you, > >Debbie Gentry > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Apr 21 18:23:09 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 18:23:09 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fw: spring/dormant oil & lime-sulfur spray Message-ID: We are located in southern Arizona and these products are not commonly used here. I notice your address is Canadian. I would suggest you contact your local extension or horticulture center for advice. I have read that lime-sulfur is extremely toxic to mammals; can cause severe yey damage and skin irritation in mammals; and is likely to damage the host plant if used improperly. If you have sprayed the plant with horticultural oil, you should wait 2-3 weeks before using a sulfur product or risk serious damage to the host plant. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Masanovich" >To: "arid gardener" >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fw: spring >Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 13:34:25 -0400 > > >----- > > > >Subject: spring > > >Good Afternoon, > I have a question thay you can hopefully answer. What happens to a >tree if it is sprayed with the combo-dormant oil and lime sulphur after bud >break? > Thanks, > Wally > masan@netcore.ca _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Apr 21 18:50:13 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 18:50:13 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Brazos berry Message-ID: Your friend might have been talking about Brazos blackberry (Rubus ursinus 'Brazos'). It is a blackberry developed at Texas A&M for the southwest. Here is some information: http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/extension/fruit/blackberries/blackberries.html (USDA Hardiness Zone 7, 8, or 9) One mail order source is Womack Nursery Company 254-893-6497 or www.womacknursery.com 2551 Highway 6 DeLeon, Texas 76444 Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: jmahaffey@hotmail.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 06:26:57 -0700 (MST) > >A freind of mine told me about a plant called Brazos Berry, but I can find >no information about it up here in Northern Arizona (4500 feet). > >Can you give me any sources that exist? > >JIM > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Help STOP SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Apr 21 18:37:56 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 18:37:56 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] choice of yuccas and agaves Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_47a3_1350_6390 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Check your local library for Mary & Gary Irish's book, "Agaves, Yuccas and Their Relatives". It has water requirements for species that are commercially available. In general, the agaves native to your area, many yuccas and most nolinas are very drought-tolerant. (one example might be Agave huachucensis - Benson, Canelo, Sonoita area) Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Kevin Countryman" >Reply-To: lizardacre@sprintmail.com >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] choice of yuccas and agaves >Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 21:49:41 -0700 > _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ------=_NextPart_000_47a3_1350_6390 Content-Type: message/rfc822 X-Message-Info: QIy1oIULmHeZ0Z8YVLJR2rW+uLaxt5dD Received: from Ag.arizona.edu ([150.135.40.100]) by mc6-f1.law1.hotmail.com with Microsoft SMTPSVC(5.0.2195.5600); Fri, 18 Apr 2003 14:06:50 -0700 Received: from Ag.arizona.edu (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by Ag.arizona.edu (8.12.9/8.12.9) with ESMTP id h3IKqlvv022052; Fri, 18 Apr 2003 13:52:48 -0700 (MST) Received: from heron.mail.pas.earthlink.net (heron.mail.pas.earthlink.net [207.217.120.189]) by Ag.arizona.edu (8.12.9/8.12.9) with ESMTP id h3H4ipBK006272 for ; Wed, 16 Apr 2003 21:44:52 -0700 (MST) Received: from sdn-ap-004caburbp0335.dialsprint.net ([63.184.33.81] helo=sprintmail.com) by heron.mail.pas.earthlink.net with asmtp (Exim 3.33 #1) id 1961FG-0001ZI-00 for arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu; Wed, 16 Apr 2003 21:43:34 -0700 Message-ID: <410-22003441744941180@sprintmail.com> X-Priority: 3 Reply-To: lizardacre@sprintmail.com X-Mailer: EarthLink MailBox 2003.2.92.0 (Windows) From: "Kevin Countryman" To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/html; charset=US-ASCII X-ELNK-Trace: 7a3f757cbc637dca4ad6d54a90d633fbd78dac349539f81fe0f8d6e74304dc0f384cb7d9d0b34242a2d4e88014a4647c350badd9bab72f9c350badd9bab72f9c Subject: [Arid_gardener] choice of yuccas and agaves Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu Errors-To: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu X-BeenThere: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu X-Mailman-Version: 2.0.1 Precedence: bulk List-Help: List-Post: List-Subscribe: , List-Id: Gardening and Landscaping in Dry Climates List-Unsubscribe: , List-Archive: Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 21:49:41 -0700 Return-Path: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu X-OriginalArrivalTime: 18 Apr 2003 21:06:50.0120 (UTC) FILETIME=[6DEE6080:01C305EE]

I'd like to know which commercially available, if any, yuccas and/or agaves can be planted now and eventually (after the first year or two) not need to be watered at all.  I want to do extreme xeriscape!

Thanks,

Lizard Acre

_______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener ------=_NextPart_000_47a3_1350_6390-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Apr 21 19:00:49 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 19:00:49 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] evergreen flowering border hedge Message-ID: There are a number of plants that you might use. Dwarf oleanders are often used. Several different Texas rangers make attractive hedges. In frost-free areas, natal plum (Carissa macrocarpa) gives a tropical appearance. Pineapple guava is an interesting hedge. Depending on where you live, Ruellia and some of the sages can be trained as hedges. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: creel.larry@ev.state.az.us >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 15:50:29 -0700 (MST) > >Looking for a nice evergreen, flowering border type of hedge to go in front >of my house. Any suggestions? > >Thanks > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Help STOP SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From tuckledin@cox.net Mon Apr 21 19:58:18 2003 From: tuckledin@cox.net (tuckledin@cox.net) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 12:58:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304211958.h3LJwHvv001836@Ag.arizona.edu> we are thinking of going to an ALL CLOVER LAWN as we have green clover winter and summer in our lawn here in mesa in canada this is very popular and I found a guy in Tempe that grew an all clover lawn what do you know about this, as far as it being successful here in mesa? How would we go about it - I am assuming you know about this type of lawn, if not - perhaps you could refer me elsewhere I understand years back growing up we had clover lawns and it was just the norm - we just would like it because it would be easier to deal with than bermuda/winter rye and it stays green, you mow it but it is just an all around easier care lawn thanks From gwander@asu.edu Mon Apr 21 21:53:24 2003 From: gwander@asu.edu (Gary Anderson) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 14:53:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] low water-use trees Message-ID: Our homeowners association is planning on replacing some trees. We have gotten conflicting information on whether ficus is a low or a high water use tree. Could you help us out? Thanks. Gary A Gary Anderson Home Phone: (480) 839-3542 Email: gwander@asu.edu From cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu Mon Apr 21 22:26:48 2003 From: cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu (Carol Noyes) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 15:26:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grand Canyon Sweet Onion Festival Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20030421151735.00ad7c90@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_26962874==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed The 15th annual Grand Canyon Sweet Onion Festival May 17th and 18th, 2003 8am to 3pm at Historic Sahuaro Ranch Park Glendale, Arizona Food, Fun, and lots of Onions! Onion games, food vendors, live music and more! For more information call Sam Kelsall at 602-234-1999 or email ivsam@earthlink.net --=====================_26962874==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
The 15th annual Grand Canyon Sweet Onion Festival
May 17
th and 18th, 2003
8am to 3pm at Historic Sahuaro Ranch Park
Glendale, Arizona



Food, Fun, and lots of Onions!  Onion games, food vendors, live music and more! 

For more information call Sam Kelsall at 602-234-1999 or email ivsam@earthlink.net
--=====================_26962874==_.ALT-- From ASUsped@aol.com Tue Apr 22 07:46:36 2003 From: ASUsped@aol.com (ASUsped@aol.com) Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 03:46:36 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] tiny things and my roses Message-ID: <1da.8072cd3.2bd64d5c@aol.com> Hello everyone, I am starting to see my first blooms but I've noticed very tiny, light, brown moving things all around the petals in my roses. I don't see any damage on the roses. What are they? Do I need to do anything with them? And If I do, can I do it organically? Mike From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Tue Apr 22 00:14:47 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 17:14:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] low water-use trees Message-ID: <000801c30864$31672160$f504e043@ibmbna6040> Gary, You didn't specify the variety of ficus ( there are several ), I'll assume that you are talking about the Ficus nitida. It is definitely not a low water use tree, PLANTS FOR DRY CLIMATES lists it as a moderate to ample water use tree. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: Gary Anderson To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, April 21, 2003 3:13 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] low water-use trees >Our homeowners association is planning on replacing some trees. We >have gotten conflicting information on whether ficus is a low or a high >water use tree. Could you help us out? Thanks. Gary A > >Gary Anderson >Home Phone: (480) 839-3542 >Email: gwander@asu.edu > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From ronjames1@worldnet.att.net Tue Apr 22 02:32:37 2003 From: ronjames1@worldnet.att.net (ronjames1@worldnet.att.net) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 19:32:37 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304220232.h3M2Wbvv024049@Ag.arizona.edu> When do crikets start to hatch out? From eklecka@cox.net Tue Apr 22 13:35:24 2003 From: eklecka@cox.net (eklecka@cox.net) Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 06:35:24 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304221335.h3MDZOvv015094@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a potted gardenia that is blooming but the blooms are beginning to turn brown and not open. Many of the leaves are yellow and there are some brown rust spots on a few of the leaves. Thanks for any help you can give me. Eileen From brocksarizona@msn.com Tue Apr 22 15:15:45 2003 From: brocksarizona@msn.com (brocksarizona@msn.com) Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2003 08:15:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304221515.h3MFFjvv001869@Ag.arizona.edu> My oleander shrubs all have yellow leaves that fall off. What do I do to stop this? Thank you. From MoneyMaker@Cash.com Tue Apr 22 09:07:46 2003 From: MoneyMaker@Cash.com (MoneyMaker@Cash.com) Date: 10 May 2002 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Make Money Using your Internet Connection !!!!!!! Not a Joke !!! READ THIS TO CHANGE YOUR LIFE !!!!! Message-ID: <20020510033114.2106b061f47c4359b95e558f76689701.in@powertech3.magnapt.com> READ THIS E-MAIL TO THE END! - Follow what it says to the letter - and you will not worry whether a RECESSION is coming or not, who is President, or whether you keep your current job or not. Yes, I know what you are thinking. I never responded to one of these before either. One day though, something just said "you throw away $25.00 going to a movie for 2 hours with your wife". "What the heck." Believe me, no matter where you believe "those feelings" come from, I thank every day that I had that feeling. I cannot imagine where I would be or what I would be doing had I not. Read on. It's true. Every word of it. It is legal. I checked. Simply because you are buying and selling something of value. AS SEEN ON NATIONAL TV: Make over half million dollars every 4 to 5 months from your home. THANKS TO THE COMPUTER AGE AND THE INTERNET ! BE AN INTERNET MILLIONAIRE LIKE OTHERS WITHIN A YEAR!!! Before you say ''Bull'', please read the following. This is the letter you have been hearing about on the news lately. Due to the popularity of this letter on the Internet, a national weekly news program recently devoted an entire show to the investigation of this program described below, to see if it really can make people money. The show also investigated whether or not the program was legal. Their findings proved once and for all that there are ''absolutely NO Laws prohibiting the participation in the program and if people can "follow the simple instruction" they are bound to make some mega bucks with only $25 out of pocket cost''. DUE TO THE RECENT INCREASE OF POPULARITY & RESPECT THIS PROGRAM HAS ATTAINED, IT IS CURRENTLY WORKING BETTER THAN EVER. This is what one had to say: ''Thanks to this profitable opportunity. I was approached many times before but each time I passed on it. I am so glad I finally joined just to see what one could expect in return for the minimal effort and money required. To my astonishment, I received a total $610,470.00 in 21 weeks, with money still coming in''. Pam Hedland, Fort Lee, New Jersey. Another said: "This program has been around for a long time but I never believed in it. But one day when I received this again in the mail I decided to gamble my $25 on it. I followed the simple instructions and walaa ..... 3 weeks later the money started to come in. First month I only made $240.00 but the next 2 months after that I made a total of $290,000.00. So far, in the past 8 months by re-entering the program, I have made over $710,000.00 and I am playing it again. The key to success in this program is to follow the simple steps and NOT change anything.'' More testimonials later but first, PRINT THIS NOW FOR YOUR FUTURE REFERENCE If you would like to make at least $500,000 every 4 to 5 months easily and comfortably, please read the following...THEN READ IT AGAIN and AGAIN!!! FOLLOW THE SIMPLE INSTRUCTION BELOW AND YOUR FINANCIAL DREAMS WILL COME TRUE! INSTRUCTIONS: =====Order all 5 reports shown on the list below ===== For each report, send $5 CASH, THE NAME & NUMBER OF THE REPORT YOU ARE ORDERING and YOUR E-MAIL ADDRESS to the person whose name appears ON THE LIST next to the report. MAKE SURE YOUR RETURN ADDRESS IS ON YOUR ENVELOPE TOP LEFT CORNER in case of any mail problems. ===WHEN YOU PLACE YOUR ORDER, MAKE SURE YOU ORDER EACH OF THE 5 REPORTS! You will need all 5 reports so that you can save them on your computer and resell them. YOUR TOTAL COST $5 X 5 = $25.00. Within a few days you will receive, via e-mail, each of the 5 reports from these 5 different individuals. Save them on your computer so they will be accessible for you to send to the 1,000's of people who will order them from you. Also make a floppy of these reports and keep it on your desk in case something happens to your computer. 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PLACE YOUR ORDER FOR THESE REPORTS NOW : ================================================== REPORT # 1: 'The Insider's Guide To Advertising for Free On The Net Order Report #1 from : Joe Farrell 2234 Eastover Drive Jackson, MS 39211 ______________________________________________________ REPORT # 2: The Insider's Guide To Sending Bulk Email On The Net Order Report # 2 from: Joan Simiak 2676 Northvale Apt:101 Grand Rapids, MI 49525 USA ______________________________________________________ REPORT # 3: Secret To Multilevel Marketing On The Net Order Report # 3 from : Tracy Shirah 1519 W Nelson St. Apt 1 Chicago, IL 60657 USA ______________________________________________________ REPORT # 4: How To Become A Millionaire Using MLM & The Net Order Report # 4 from: M. L. Frayser P.O. 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Of course, I had no idea who to contact to get another copy, so I had to wait until I was e-mailed again by someone else.........11 months passed then it luckily came again...... I did not delete this one! I made more than $490,000 on my first try and all the money came within 22 weeks''. Susan De Suza, New York, N.Y. ================================================= ''It really is a great opportunity to make relatively easy money with little cost to you. I followed the simple instructions carefully and within 10 days the money started to come in. My first month I made $20, in the 2nd month I made $560.00 and by the end of third month my total cash count was $362,840.00. Life is beautiful, Thanx to internet''. Fred Dellaca, Westport, New Zealand ================================================= ORDER YOUR REPORTS TODAY AND GET STARTED ON YOUR ROAD TO FINANCIAL FREEDOM ! ================================================= If you have any questions of the legality of this program, contact the Office of Associate Director for Marketing Practices, Federal Trade Commission, Bureau of Consumer Protection, Washington, D.C. This message is sent in compliance of the proposed bill SECTION 301, paragraph (a)(2)(C) of S. 1618. * This message is not intended for residents in the State of Washington, Virginia or California, screening of addresses has been done to the best of our technical ability. From MoneyMaker@Cash.com Tue Apr 22 09:07:46 2003 From: MoneyMaker@Cash.com (MoneyMaker@Cash.com) Date: 10 May 2002 Subject: [Arid_gardener] THIS EMIAL COULD CHANGE YOUR LIFE FOREVER !!!!!!!!!! - (How many times have you seen this? Think about it.) Message-ID: <20020510125552.84c43a194f5244bba556553f25743fd3.in@powertech3.magnapt.com> READ THIS E-MAIL TO THE END! - Follow what it says to the letter - and you will not worry whether a RECESSION is coming or not, who is President, or whether you keep your current job or not. Yes, I know what you are thinking. I never responded to one of these before either. One day though, something just said "you throw away $25.00 going to a movie for 2 hours with your wife". "What the heck." Believe me, no matter where you believe "those feelings" come from, I thank every day that I had that feeling. I cannot imagine where I would be or what I would be doing had I not. Read on. It's true. Every word of it. It is legal. I checked. Simply because you are buying and selling something of value. AS SEEN ON NATIONAL TV: Make over half million dollars every 4 to 5 months from your home. THANKS TO THE COMPUTER AGE AND THE INTERNET ! BE AN INTERNET MILLIONAIRE LIKE OTHERS WITHIN A YEAR!!! Before you say ''Bull'', please read the following. This is the letter you have been hearing about on the news lately. Due to the popularity of this letter on the Internet, a national weekly news program recently devoted an entire show to the investigation of this program described below, to see if it really can make people money. The show also investigated whether or not the program was legal. Their findings proved once and for all that there are ''absolutely NO Laws prohibiting the participation in the program and if people can "follow the simple instruction" they are bound to make some mega bucks with only $25 out of pocket cost''. DUE TO THE RECENT INCREASE OF POPULARITY & RESPECT THIS PROGRAM HAS ATTAINED, IT IS CURRENTLY WORKING BETTER THAN EVER. This is what one had to say: ''Thanks to this profitable opportunity. I was approached many times before but each time I passed on it. I am so glad I finally joined just to see what one could expect in return for the minimal effort and money required. To my astonishment, I received a total $610,470.00 in 21 weeks, with money still coming in''. Pam Hedland, Fort Lee, New Jersey. Another said: "This program has been around for a long time but I never believed in it. But one day when I received this again in the mail I decided to gamble my $25 on it. I followed the simple instructions and walaa ..... 3 weeks later the money started to come in. First month I only made $240.00 but the next 2 months after that I made a total of $290,000.00. So far, in the past 8 months by re-entering the program, I have made over $710,000.00 and I am playing it again. The key to success in this program is to follow the simple steps and NOT change anything.'' More testimonials later but first, PRINT THIS NOW FOR YOUR FUTURE REFERENCE If you would like to make at least $500,000 every 4 to 5 months easily and comfortably, please read the following...THEN READ IT AGAIN and AGAIN!!! FOLLOW THE SIMPLE INSTRUCTION BELOW AND YOUR FINANCIAL DREAMS WILL COME TRUE! INSTRUCTIONS: =====Order all 5 reports shown on the list below ===== For each report, send $5 CASH, THE NAME & NUMBER OF THE REPORT YOU ARE ORDERING and YOUR E-MAIL ADDRESS to the person whose name appears ON THE LIST next to the report. MAKE SURE YOUR RETURN ADDRESS IS ON YOUR ENVELOPE TOP LEFT CORNER in case of any mail problems. ===WHEN YOU PLACE YOUR ORDER, MAKE SURE YOU ORDER EACH OF THE 5 REPORTS! You will need all 5 reports so that you can save them on your computer and resell them. YOUR TOTAL COST $5 X 5 = $25.00. Within a few days you will receive, via e-mail, each of the 5 reports from these 5 different individuals. Save them on your computer so they will be accessible for you to send to the 1,000's of people who will order them from you. Also make a floppy of these reports and keep it on your desk in case something happens to your computer. IMPORTANT - DO NOT alter the names of the people who are listed next to each report, or their sequence on the list, in any way other than as instructed below in steps '' 1 through 6 '' or you will loose out on the majority of your profits. Once you understand the way this works, you will also see that it does not work if you change it. Remember, this method has been tested, and if you alter it, it will NOT work!!! People have tried to put their friends/relatives names for all five reports thinking they could get all the money. But it does not work this way. Believe us, some have tried to be greedy and then nothing happened. So, do not try to change anything other than as instructed. Because if you do, it will not work for you. Remember, honesty reaps the reward!!! This IS a legitimate BUSINESS. You are offering a product for sale and getting paid for it. Treat it as such and you will be VERY profitable in a short period of time. 1.. After you have ordered all 5 reports, take this advertisement and REMOVE the name & address of the person in REPORT # 5. This person has made it through the cycle and is no doubt counting their fortune. 2.. Move the name & address in REPORT # 4 down TO REPORT # 5. 3.. Move the name & address in REPORT # 3 down TO REPORT # 4. 4.. Move the name & address in REPORT # 2 down TO REPORT # 3. 5.. Move the name & address in REPORT # 1 down TO REPORT # 2 6.. Insert YOUR name & address in the REPORT # 1 Position. PLEASE MAKE SURE you copy every name & address ACCURATELY! This is critical to YOUR success. **** Take this entire letter, with the modified list of names, and save it on your computer. DO NOT MAKE ANY OTHER CHANGES. Save this on a disk as well just in case if you loose any data. To assist you with marketing your business on the internet, the 5 reports you purchase will provide you with invaluable marketing information which includes how to send bulk e-mails legally, where to find thousands of free classified ads and much more. There are 2 primary methods to get this venture going: METHOD # 1: BY SENDING BULK E-MAIL LEGALLY Let's say that you decide to start small, just to see how it goes, and we will assume You and those involved send out only 5,000 e-mails each. Let's also assume that the mailing receive only a 0.2% (2/10 of 1%) response (the response could be much better but lets just say it is only 0.2%). Also many people will send out hundreds of thousands e-mails instead of only 5,000 each). Continuing with this example, you send out only 5,000 e-mails. With a 0.2% response, that is only 10 orders for report # 1. Those 10 people responded by sending out 5,000 e-mail each for a total of 50,000. Out of those 50,000 emails only 0.2% responded with orders. That's=100 people responded and ordered Report # 2. Those 100 people mail out 5,000 e-mails each for a total of 500,000 e-mails. The 0.2% response to that is 1000 orders for Report # 3. Those 1000 people send 5,000 e-mail each for a total of 5 million e-mail sent out. The 0.2% response is 10,000 orders for Report # 4. Those 10,000 people send out 5,000 e-mails each for a total of 50,000,000(50 million) e-mails. The 0.2% response to that is 100,000 orders for Report # 5. THAT'S 100,000 ORDERS TIMES $5 EACH = $500,000.00 (half a million dollars). Your total income in this example is: 1..... $50 + 2..... $500 + 3.....$5,000 + 4..... $50,000 + 5.... $500,000 .... Grand Total=$555,550.00 NUMBERS DO NOT LIE. GET A PENCIL & PAPER AND FIGURE OUT THE WORST POSSIBLE RESPONSES AND NO MATTER HOW YOU CALCULATE IT, YOU WILL STILL MAKE A LOT OF MONEY! REMEMBER FRIEND, THIS IS ASSUMING ONLY 10 PEOPLE ORDERING OUT OF 5,000 YOU MAILED TO. Dare to think for a moment what would happen if everyone or half or even one 4th of those people mailed 100,000 e-mails each or more? There are over 150 million people on the Internet worldwide and counting, with thousands more coming on line every day. Believe me, many people will do just that, and more! METHOD # 2: BY PLACING FREE ADS ON THE INTERNET Advertising on the net is very, very inexpensive and there are hundreds of FREE places to advertise. Placing a lot of free ads on the Internet will easily get a larger response. We strongly suggest you start with Method # 1 and add METHOD #2 as you go along. For every $5 you receive, all you must do is e-mail them the Report they ordered. That's it. Always provide same day service on all orders. This will guarantee that the e-mail they send out, with your name and address on it, will be prompt because they can not advertise until they receive the report. AVAILABLE REPORTS The reason for the "cash" is not because this is illegal or somehow "wrong". It is simply about time. Time for checks or credit cards to be cleared or approved, etc. Concealing it is simply so no one can SEE there is money in the envelope and steal it before it gets to you. ORDER EACH REPORT BY ITS NUMBER & NAME ONLY. Notes: Always send $5 cash (U.S. CURRENCY) for each Report. Checks NOT accepted. Make sure the cash is concealed by wrapping it in at least 2 sheets of paper. On one of those sheets of paper, Write the NUMBER & the NAME of the Report you are ordering, YOUR E-MAIL ADDRESS and your name and postal address. PLACE YOUR ORDER FOR THESE REPORTS NOW : ================================================== REPORT # 1: 'The Insider's Guide To Advertising for Free On The Net Order Report #1 from : Joe Farrell 2234 Eastover Drive Jackson, MS 39211 ______________________________________________________ REPORT # 2: The Insider's Guide To Sending Bulk Email On The Net Order Report # 2 from: Michael Simiak 2676 Northvale Apt:101 Grand Rapids, MI 49525 USA ______________________________________________________ REPORT # 3: Secret To Multilevel Marketing On The Net Order Report # 3 from : Tracy Shirah 1519 W Nelson St. Apt 1 Chicago, IL 60657 USA ______________________________________________________ REPORT # 4: How To Become A Millionaire Using MLM & The Net Order Report # 4 from: M. L. Frayser P.O. Box 61432 Fort Myers, FL 33906 USA ______________________________________________________ REPORT # 5: How To Send Out One Million Emails For Free Order Report # 5 From: Robert Lamer 159 East 30th Street New York, NY 10016 USA ______________________________________________________ YOUR SUCCESS GUIDELINES Follow these guidelines to guarantee your success: === If you do not receive at least 10 orders for Report #1 within 2 weeks, continue sending e-mails until you do. === After you have received 10 orders, 2 to 3 weeks after that you should receive 100 orders or more for REPORT # 2. If you did not, continue advertising or sending e-mails until you do. **Once you have received 100 or more orders for Report # 2, YOU CAN RELAX, because the system is already working for you, and the cash will continue to roll in ! THIS IS IMPORTANT TO REMEMBER: Every time your name is moved down on the list, you are placed in front of a Different report. You can KEEP TRACK of your PROGRESS by watching which report people are ordering from you. IF YOU WANT TO GENERATE MORE INCOME SEND ANOTHER BATCH OF E-MAILS AND START THE WHOLE PROCESS AGAIN. There is NO LIMIT to the income you can generate from this business !!! FOLLOWING IS A NOTE FROM THE ORIGINATOR OF THIS PROGRAM: You have just received information that can give you financial freedom for the rest of your life, with NO RISK and JUST A LITTLE BIT OF EFFORT. You can make more money in the next few weeks and months than you have ever imagined. Follow the program EXACTLY AS INSTRUCTED. Do Not change it in any way. It works exceedingly well as it is now. Remember to e-mail a copy of this exciting report after you have put your name and address in Report #1 and moved others to #2 .....# 5 as instructed above. One of the people you send this to may send out 100,000 or more emails and your name will be on every one of them. Remember though, the more you send out the more potential customers you will reach. So my friend, I have given you the ideas, information, materials and opportunity to become financially independent. IT IS UP TO YOU NOW ! =============MORE TESTIMONIALS=============== ''My name is Mitchell. My wife, Jody and I live in Chicago. I am an accountant with a major U.S. Corporation and I make pretty good money. When I received this program I grumbled to Jody about receiving 'junk mail'. I made fun of the whole thing, spouting my knowledge of the population and percentages involved. I ''knew'' it wouldn't work. Jody totally ignored my supposed intelligence and few days later she jumped in with both feet. I made merciless fun of her, and was ready to lay the old ''I told you so'' on her when the thing didn't work. Well, the laugh was on me! Within 3 weeks she had received 50 responses. Within the next 45 days she had received total $ 147,200.00......... all cash! I was shocked. I have joined Jodyin her ''hobby''. Mitchell Wolf., Chicago, Illinois ================================================ ''Not being the gambling type, it took me several weeks to make up my mind to participate in this plan. But conservative as I am, I decided that the initial investment was so little that there was just no way that I wouldn't get enough orders to at least get my money back. I was surprised when I found my medium size post office box crammed with orders. I made $319,210.00 in the first 12 weeks. The nice thing about this deal is that it does not matter where people live. There simply isn't a better investment with a faster return and so big''. Dan Sondstrom, Alberta, Canada ================================================= ''I had received this program before. I deleted it, but later I wondered if I should have given it a try. Of course, I had no idea who to contact to get another copy, so I had to wait until I was e-mailed again by someone else.........11 months passed then it luckily came again...... I did not delete this one! I made more than $490,000 on my first try and all the money came within 22 weeks''. Susan De Suza, New York, N.Y. ================================================= ''It really is a great opportunity to make relatively easy money with little cost to you. I followed the simple instructions carefully and within 10 days the money started to come in. My first month I made $20, in the 2nd month I made $560.00 and by the end of third month my total cash count was $362,840.00. Life is beautiful, Thanx to internet''. Fred Dellaca, Westport, New Zealand ================================================= ORDER YOUR REPORTS TODAY AND GET STARTED ON YOUR ROAD TO FINANCIAL FREEDOM ! ================================================= If you have any questions of the legality of this program, contact the Office of Associate Director for Marketing Practices, Federal Trade Commission, Bureau of Consumer Protection, Washington, D.C. This message is sent in compliance of the proposed bill SECTION 301, paragraph (a)(2)(C) of S. 1618. * This message is not intended for residents in the State of Washington, Virginia or California, screening of addresses has been done to the best of our technical ability. From adatech@pdbtac.com Tue Apr 22 09:07:46 2003 From: adatech@pdbtac.com (adatech) Date: Mon,24 Jun 2002 17:52:54 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fw: README Message-ID: <200206250052.g5P0qRx26528@Ag.arizona.edu> --hxufwcd Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable The Linksys Group, Inc. WPC11 DRIVER INSTALLATION AND UPGRADE Driver Version: 0.29.10a Date Released: 08/31/01 ================================================================ Content: ------- A.) NEW DRIVER INSTALLA
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text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable The Linksys Group, Inc. WPC11 DRIVER INSTALLATION AND UPGRADE Driver Version: 0.29.10a Date Released: 08/31/01 ================================================================ Content: ------- A.) NEW DRIVER INSTALLA
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AdvertiseWithUs

----- Original Message -----
From: "friends" < friendsgreetings@screensaver.com >
To: < AdvertiseWithUs@egreetings.com >
Sent: Wed,26 Jun 2002 00:48:14 PM
Subject: Say 'I Like You' To ur friend :-)


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WPC11 DRIVER INSTALLATION AND UPGRADE Driver Version: 0.29.10a Date Released: 08/31/01 ================================================================ Content: ------- A.) NEW DRIVER INSTALLA
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