From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Apr 1 00:50:00 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 00:50:00 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] killing bermuda around trees Message-ID: Wait for the summer and actively growing bermuda. Apply a herbicide containing glyphosate (such as Roundup)to the grass, but be careful not to spray plants you do not want to kill. You may need to repeat the treatment in about two weeks. The herbicide is translocated in the plant and will take some time to kill the grass, but it will also kill the roots because it is translocated. There is little residual left in the soil. You could also use a selective herbicide containing fluazifop (such as Fusilade) to selectively kill grass without killing broadleaf plants. Be sure to read all label information carefully and follow the procedures given. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: TN@asu.edu >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 16:24:48 -0700 (MST) > >What is the best way to get rid of bermuda >grass if I want to preserve the trees around >the area and plant in the area where the grass >is killed? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Apr 1 00:59:32 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 00:59:32 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] green winged insects on iris Message-ID: most important! first identify what is causing the damage. the green winged "pests" may be lacewings -- they are good guys who eat the pests. You do not want to kill lacewings. See if you can observe what is actually chewing the leaves. The cause might be a moth larvae (caterpillar) or snails. To check for snails, set shallow pans into the soil with the lip flush with the soil surface and fill with stale beer. Check in the morning for drowned snails. If you observe caterpillars, try BT -- read and follow label directions. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: millervoffbm@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 15:30:37 -0700 (MST) > >How to get rid of miniscule green winged pests chewing on iris leaves. >Also find our orange lantana slow to flower? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Apr 1 01:01:16 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 01:01:16 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] orange lantana slow to flower Message-ID: Lantanas need ample sunlight to flower. How many hours of full sun do the plants receive? Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: millervoffbm@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 15:30:37 -0700 (MST) > >How to get rid of miniscule green winged pests chewing on iris leaves. >Also find our orange lantana slow to flower? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Apr 1 01:14:51 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 01:14:51 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ficus nitida Message-ID: Here ia a response to earlier questions: You should be winter watering on a three to four week interval with the water penetrating to a depth of two to three feet. It is time to go on a spring-fall schedule which should be every two to three weeks. Summer watering should be every 7 to 10 days. These recommendations are for the low desert and are based on your soil being mostly clay. If your soil is very sandy then you would have to water more frequently. I have several Ficus nitida planted 1 1/2 years ago that are wintered watered once per month with three two gallon drippers for three hours. As the trees matures I will be adding more drippers and a longer irrigation time. Your fertilizer spikes should be placed near the drip line of the tree. Check out the Master Gardener Manual on irrigation at : http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod >From: sallybreyer@hotmail.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 09:33:33 -0700 (MST) > >I have 5 ficus trees that are now 3 years old. (we bought them in 24in >boxes) They are located along a wall and 2 get full sun. > >The 2 that get full sun have sparse leaves on the west side and have not >grown as well as the ones that get a little shade. > >I am disappointed in the growth of all of the trees. They really have not >grown much at all. > >How much water should these trees be getting and what do you recomend for >fertilizer? Any advice is welcome > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Apr 1 01:20:28 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 01:20:28 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] sunflowers Message-ID: Most sunflowers grow well here. I've had good luck with music box (small) and Maximilian. Choose ones that will fit your space - the grey stripe grow well over six feet tall for example. If you are going to plant seed directly in the ground (rather than setting out transplants) protect the seedlings from birds with floating row cover. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: sallybreyer@hotmail.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 09:38:42 -0700 (MST) > >I am going to plant some sunflowers in my yard and wonder what variety does >well here. I am planning on doing the perimeter of my backyard (along the >wall). I would also like to do a border between my house and my neighbors >in the front yard as I have a strip garden already set up. What would be a >good choice for the front yard. These plants would not have a wall to >protect them from the wind. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Apr 1 01:24:30 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 01:24:30 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] caterpillars on Texas mountain laurel Message-ID: There is one type of caterpillar that loves to eat Texas mountain laurel; it doesn't bother other plants. Pick off all the caterpillars you see to reduce damage. Alternatively, use BT (a biological control) to kill the caterpillars. Read and follow label directions. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: jvasura@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 20:32:24 -0700 (MST) > >I live in Sun City West and have a problem with two trees. The trees are >Mountain Laurel, I think that is what you call them. They have blue >perfumy bunch of flowers with peanuts hanging from the tree. For the past >two years I am plagued with what I call tent catepillars. I have used >malathion spray but it doesn't seem to make them go away. > >Close to these trees my neighbor has two full blooming orange trees. I >don't seem to see the caterpillars on those trees. >Can you please provide some help. > >Can you provide me some advice on what to do? > >Thank you in advance. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Apr 1 01:34:33 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 01:34:33 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] watering tomatoes Message-ID: The objective is to keep the soil moist (not wet) in the root zone throughout the growing season. The root zone is probably no more that 18-24 inches deep, so you do not have to water as deeply as you would for a shrub or tree. Mulch the plants thickly to help retain soil moisture and minimize soil temperature fluctuations. The actual frequency will depend on many factors -- type of soil, size of plant, drainage, temperatures, etc. In an 'average' situation, with good mulch, you should not have to water every day. Watch the plant and soil and adjust the watering schedule as necessary. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: lbattraw@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 18:44:38 -0700 (MST) > >I'm trying to install a drip system in Mesa to water my tomatoes and >peppers. Some people say to water them like normal irrigation--water >deeply every 3 or 4 days. Others say apply 1 or 2 gallons per plant per >day, every day. Which is the correct approach? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Apr 1 01:41:12 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 01:41:12 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] lawn turfgrass Message-ID: One of the several hybrid bermuda sods should work for the lawn. Tifgreen, Tifway, Midiron and BOBsod are some examples. For more information, check out our turf publications at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: jjvisnansky@hotmail.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 11:21:37 -0700 (MST) > >This deals with lawns here in Phoenix. > >I have a small lawn area, 12 ft by 30 ft., mostly in sun, about 70%, with a >mature grapefruit tree in part of the area. I want a nice lawn in that >area. I don't want common bermuda. What type of grasses do you recommend. > >Thxs. > >Jay > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Apr 1 01:47:56 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 01:47:56 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] pruning orchid tree (Bauhinia) Message-ID: orchid tree (Bauhinia): Most trees require litle pruning because of slow growth and the development of many smaller stems. Prune only to remove dead twigs and branches after spring flowering has ceased. Lower branches are usually not removed. Seed pods can be removed with a long-handled pruner. (Eric Johnson's "Pruning, Planting and Care") Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: ron68cat@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 05:48:47 -0700 (MST) > >What is the best way & time to prune an orchid tree? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Help STOP SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Apr 1 01:55:09 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 01:55:09 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] removing bermuda Message-ID: We have had many lively discussions on this topic! Here are some guidelines: The time to begin to remove bermuda grass is during its active growing season. Please know that this is a major project. Bermuda grass will not go down willingly or without a fight! :>). The traditional method is to chemically kill the grass using an herbicide like Roundup, which takes a lot of persistance. You also have to be sure to remove all of the rhizomes or it will come back. also: My partner and I had great success starting a vegetable garden in the middle of our Bermuda patch without digging or using poisons. Skeptical? So were we. We used a technique known as "sheet-mulching." We were amazed at how well it worked--in fact we will probably never dig up Bermuda again. In a nutshell, sheet mulching involves putting down layers of nitrogenous matter (e.g., animal manure, blood meal), some sort of barrier layer (we used corrugated cardboard), and plant "debris" (fallen leaves, grass clippings, compost, etc.) on top of the weeds (i.e. Bermuda grass). Last February, we followed the steps outlined in _Introduction to Permaculture_ by Bill Mollison and Reny Mia Slay (see full reference below), watered the "heap" for about an hour, covered the heap with a tarp (to keep the dogs and cats from running through it), and let it sit for a month. A few weeks after we removed the tarp, we decided to ahead and plant Swiss chard and arugula in the sheet mulch area. Both were quite successful; in fact, the chard is still going 10 months later. As an added bonus we got a surprise pumpkin out of the process--must have had some seeds in the compost we used. A little later in the season we planted tomatoes and eggplant in the area, and they seemed to thrive as well. While this technique requires some patience too, it requires a lot less work than the dig-and-sift approach we used in our past gardening efforts. Here's the reference info: Introduction to Permaculture by B. C. Mollison and Reny Mia Slay (Contributor) Paperback - 224 pages Revised edition (November 1997) Ten Speed Press ISBN: 0908228082 >From: bbbrash@yahoo.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 09:34:58 -0700 (MST) > >I am trying to convert a corner of my lawn >into a garden. I am having trouble with >getting rid of the grass. >What is the best way to do this? > >Thank for any help >Bob > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Apr 1 02:52:02 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 02:52:02 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] wisteria Message-ID: There is a wood borer than can attack injured and dying wisteria. Provide proper cultural care to keep plants vigorous. Prune out and dispose of damaged plant parts, no other management known. Look for holes in bark and stains or oozing liquid on limbs or trunks to identify borers. ("Pests of Landscape Trees and Shrubs"). Diana Balazs stated that the wisteria will tolerate our desert heat if well irrigated, but it doesn't particularly care for our alkaline soil. She further states that the trick is to water it deeply to leach out the salts. Also to add an acidifier to the soil (Muracid is one). Wisteria need a spot that gets ample afternoon shade. Sunset Garden Book says wisteria is a twining, woody vine of great size, long life. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: pryekram@juno.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 17:18:15 -0700 (MST) > >We have a Wisteria tree that is over 20 years old, but now for the first >time some branches are dying? What could the problem be and what is the >lifespan of this plant? >Thanks. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Apr 1 02:59:25 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 02:59:25 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] plant nutrients Message-ID: Check the libary for a book, "Botany for Gardeners" to get started on your research. Also check out the basic botany section of the Master Gardener Manual: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs//garden/mg/ You might want to try tomatoes, since they are often grown hydroponically (in water, no soil): http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening/tomatoes.html Good luck on your science project! Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: jfrenkel@msn.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 11:00:44 -0700 (MST) > >I'm doing a science fair project comparing plants grown in water with >plants grown in soil. I was wondering what nutrients a plant needs to grow, >because I will need to add those nutrients to the plant in the water. Also, >what kind of plant do you think would be best for this. Any ideas or >information you think would be helpful would be appreciated. > Thank You, > Max Frenkel > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From ASUsped@aol.com Tue Apr 1 03:34:13 2003 From: ASUsped@aol.com (ASUsped@aol.com) Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 22:34:13 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] roses and lady bugs Message-ID: <119.215133c6.2bba62b5@aol.com> Hello everyone, This is the second time I buy lady bugs for my roses; the first time I saw them dead all over the place the next day. This time they just disappeared and I don't find them. I let them go at night and I watered the roses and I don't spray my roses with anything. The only thing I could think of is that even though there are some Aphids but maybe in small quantity to sustain the lady bugs. I don't know what I am doing wrong with them........Mike From watsontl@mindspring.com Tue Apr 1 04:53:15 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 21:53:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] sunflowers References: Message-ID: <004101c2f80a$9c4627c0$9408b83f@S0029317241> Mexican sunflowers (Tithonia sp.) are a good bet, too. The color of the flowers is almost unreal, especially in the early evening. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Linda Drew" To: ; Sent: Monday, March 31, 2003 6:20 PM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] sunflowers > > Most sunflowers grow well here. I've had good luck with > music box (small) and Maximilian. Choose ones that will > fit your space - the grey stripe grow well over six feet > tall for example. If you are going to plant seed directly > in the ground (rather than setting out transplants) protect > the seedlings from birds with floating row cover. > > Linda Drew > Master Gardener > > > > > > >From: sallybreyer@hotmail.com > >To: > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 09:38:42 -0700 (MST) > > > >I am going to plant some sunflowers in my yard and wonder what variety does > >well here. I am planning on doing the perimeter of my backyard (along the > >wall). I would also like to do a border between my house and my neighbors > >in the front yard as I have a strip garden already set up. What would be a > >good choice for the front yard. These plants would not have a wall to > >protect them from the wind. > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Arid_gardener mailing list > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. > http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From ckjones@Ag.arizona.edu Tue Apr 1 02:09:32 2003 From: ckjones@Ag.arizona.edu (Chris Jones) Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 19:09:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Arizona Firewise Communities 2003 Workshop - October 16, 2003 Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20030331190918.04e63b20@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_27719488==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Please post to arid_gardener listserve: Before the sun sets over another Saguaro, please mark your calendar for the Arizona Firewise Communities 2003 Workshop - October 16, 2003 Who: All community members are welcome to attend What: Discover what you can do for your home and community to make them better able to survive a wildfire Where: Tucson Convention Center, 260 South Church Street, Tucson, Arizona Important benefits of the workshop will be: * Sharing responsibilities in fire protection and community development * Exchanging knowledge, expertise, and ideas * Learning how to bring a Firewise workshop to your community Sponsors: Arizona State Land Department Bureau of Land Management Mount Lemmon Fire District National Park Service Tohono O'odham Nation - Fire Department Tucson Fire Department University of Arizona - Cooperative Extension US Fish and Wildlife Service US Forest Service Details and registration forms are available at: www.cals.arizona.edu/extension/firewise and at www.firewise.org (See attached file: Sun sets Postcard.doc) David N.Peters Fire Mitigation Specialist Safford/Tucson Fire Management Zone USDI, Bureau of Land Management, Tucson Field Office 12,661 East Broadway Boulevard, Tucson, Arizona 85748 Office (520) 258-7207, Pager (928) 552-7207, Fax (520) 258-7238 David_Peters@BLM.gov Christopher Jones, Gila County Extension Agent Agriculture and Natural Resources Programs University of Arizona Cooperative Extension Gila County Cooperative Extension 1177 Monroe Street Globe, Arizona 85501 USA (928) 425-7179 - Phone (928) 425-0265 - FAX ckjones@ag.arizona.edu - E-mail --=====================_27719488==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
Please post to arid_gardener listserve:

 

Before the sun sets over another Saguaro, please mark your calendar for the

Arizona Firewise Communities 2003 Workshop - October 16, 2003

 

      Who:  All community members are welcome to attend

 

      What:  Discover what you can do for your home and community to make

             them better able to survive a wildfire

 

      Where:  Tucson Convention Center, 260 South Church Street, Tucson,

              Arizona

 

 

      Important benefits of the workshop will be:

            * Sharing responsibilities in fire protection and community

              development

 

            * Exchanging knowledge, expertise, and ideas

 

            * Learning how to bring a Firewise workshop to your community

 

 

      Sponsors:

            Arizona State Land Department

            Bureau of Land Management

            Mount Lemmon Fire District

            National Park Service

            Tohono O'odham Nation - Fire Department

            Tucson Fire Department

            University of Arizona - Cooperative Extension

            US Fish and Wildlife Service

            US Forest Service

 

 

      Details and registration forms are available at:

 

      www.cals.arizona.edu/extension/firewise

      and at

      www.firewise.org

 

 

      (See attached file: Sun sets Postcard.doc)

 

 

      David N.Peters

      Fire Mitigation Specialist

      Safford/Tucson Fire Management Zone

 

      USDI, Bureau of Land Management, Tucson Field Office

      12,661 East Broadway Boulevard, Tucson, Arizona  85748

      Office (520) 258-7207, Pager (928) 552-7207, Fax (520) 258-7238

      David_Peters@BLM.gov

 

 

Christopher Jones, Gila County Extension Agent

Agriculture and Natural Resources Programs

University of Arizona Cooperative Extension

 

Gila County Cooperative Extension

1177 Monroe Street

Globe, Arizona  85501

USA

 

(928) 425-7179 - Phone

(928) 425-0265 - FAX

ckjones@ag.arizona.edu - E-mail

 
 --=====================_27719488==_.ALT-- From stevendrew@mindspring.com Tue Apr 1 02:56:07 2003 From: stevendrew@mindspring.com (Steven C. Drew) Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 19:56:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] re:sunflowers Message-ID: <001601c2f7fa$3f497aa0$ddd056d1@Global> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C2F7BF.917B8240 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have yet to find a variety of sunflowers that does not do well here. I = really like the red, lemon yellow and autumn colors. The common grey = stripe does really well. I have sunflowers 12 months of the year now. = They come up volunteer, and are weeds in some areas and blessings in = others. Mine are out in the open and I haven't noticed wind being a = major factor. Sunflowers are easy and fun to grow. I water mine to a = depth of about 12"-18" several times a week. Mine do well wihtout any = fertilizer. Digging out the stumps in the fall is a little like digging = out a tree. For some interest and variety, grow gourds with the = sunflowers and just let the gourds use the sunflower as a trellis. Good luck! Steve Drew The question is: I am going to plant some sunflowers in my yard and wonder what variety = does well here. I am planning on doing the perimeter of my backyard = (along the wall). I would also like to do a border between my house and = my neighbors in the front yard as I have a strip garden already set up. = What would be a good choice for the front yard. These plants would not = have a wall to protect them from the wind. ------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C2F7BF.917B8240 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I have yet to find a variety of = sunflowers that=20 does not do well here. I really like the red, lemon yellow and autumn = colors.=20 The common grey stripe does really well. I have sunflowers 12 months of = the year=20 now. They come up volunteer, and are weeds in some areas and blessings = in=20 others. Mine are out in the open and I haven't noticed wind being a = major=20 factor. Sunflowers are easy and fun to grow. I water mine to a = depth of=20 about 12"-18" several times a week. Mine do well wihtout any fertilizer. = Digging=20 out the stumps in the fall is a little like digging out a tree. For some = interest and variety, grow gourds with the sunflowers and just let the = gourds=20 use the sunflower as a trellis.
 
Good luck!
 
Steve Drew
 
 
 
The question is:
 
I am going to=20 plant some sunflowers in my yard and wonder what variety does well = here.  I=20 am planning on doing the perimeter of my backyard (along the = wall).  I=20 would also like to do a border between my house and my neighbors in the = front=20 yard as I have a strip garden already set up.  What would be a good = choice=20 for the front yard.  These plants would not have a wall to protect = them=20 from the wind.
------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C2F7BF.917B8240-- From watsontl@mindspring.com Tue Apr 1 04:43:38 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 21:43:38 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Boojum seedling care References: <20030331171052.40311.qmail@web14310.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000801c2f809$444c9960$9408b83f@S0029317241> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C2F7CE.96BC9460 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I now have three tiny boojums, two of which were acquired at = Boyce-Thompson Arboretum. I was give a page of care information that = originally appeared in the journal Desert Plants. According to it, the = seedlings can go dormant between May and October (but apparently this is = not a given). If the seedling goes dormant, watering is supposed to be = "greatly reduced." When I pointed out to one of the arboretum staff = that this was not very precise, she said the soil should be allowed to = dry out between waterings when there are leaves on the plant. If the = seedling drops its leaves, but remains firm and does not wrinkle, it is = alive but dormant, and will leaf out again in the fall. Little, if any = water, should be needed when there are no leaves. (Watering when they = look wrinkled might help. I have not been able to get specific advice = on this.) Something that was stressed several times that boojum = seedlings need to be protected from strong direct sunlight, especially = when dormant. According to the care sheet, using Miracle Gro fertilizer at one third = the strength used for houseplants is good for the young plants when they = are leafed out. This is to be done "every third or fourth watering." = The folks at BTA suggested doing so monthly as long as new leaves were = being produced. Based on what I was told and have read, I'm keeping mine on a shady = porch that gets only a little direct sun in the early morning. When = the pots feel very light (and the plants show NO stress when they get = that dry, amazingly enough!) I water enough to let water run freely out = of the pots (to keep the salts from building up). I've only used = fertilizer once, and can't honestly say the plants responded. They are = looking pretty good, though. The real test will come when summer is in = full swing! Tom ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Sharon Caley=20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Monday, March 31, 2003 10:10 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Boojum seedling care Just purchased (fell in love with) a Boojum Tree seedling about 3 = inches high at Desert Botanical Gardens. Got conflicting care info and = would like some help. The Botanical Garden said no summer water. = Another knowlegeable person said they don't go dormant this young and = continue to water during the summer. I would guess that if it loses = it's leaves I should water only if it starts to shrivel. Any advice? = Sharon in Phoenix -------------------------------------------------------------------------= ----- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Platinum - Watch CBS' NCAA March Madness, live on your desktop! ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C2F7CE.96BC9460 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I now have three tiny boojums, two of = which were=20 acquired at Boyce-Thompson Arboretum.  I was give a page of care=20 information that originally appeared in the journal Desert=20 Plants.   According to it, the seedlings can go dormant = between May=20 and October (but apparently this is not a given).   If the = seedling=20 goes dormant, watering is supposed to be "greatly reduced."   = When I=20 pointed out to one of the arboretum staff that this was not very = precise, she=20 said the soil should be allowed to dry out between waterings when there = are=20 leaves on the plant.   If the seedling drops its leaves, but = remains=20 firm and does not wrinkle, it is alive but dormant, and will leaf out = again in=20 the fall.   Little, if any water, should be needed when there = are no=20 leaves.   (Watering when they look wrinkled might = help.   I=20 have not been able to get specific advice on this.)   = Something that=20 was stressed several times that boojum seedlings need to be protected = from=20 strong direct sunlight, especially when dormant.
 
According to the care sheet, using = Miracle Gro=20 fertilizer at one third the strength used for houseplants is good for = the young=20 plants when they are leafed out.   This is to be done "every = third or=20 fourth watering."   The folks at BTA suggested doing so = monthly as=20 long as new leaves were being produced.
 
Based on what I was told and have read, = I'm keeping=20 mine on a shady porch that gets only a little direct sun in the early=20 morning.   When the pots feel very light (and the plants show = NO=20 stress when they get that dry, amazingly enough!) I water enough to let = water=20 run freely out of the pots (to keep the salts from building = up).  =20 I've only used fertilizer once, and can't honestly say the plants=20 responded.   They are looking pretty good, though.   = The=20 real test will come when summer is in full swing!
 
 
Tom
 
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Sharon=20 Caley
Sent: Monday, March 31, 2003 = 10:10=20 AM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Boojum = seedling=20 care

Just purchased (fell in love with) a Boojum Tree = seedling about=20 3 inches high at Desert Botanical Gardens.  Got conflicting care = info and=20 would like some help.  The Botanical Garden said no summer = water. =20 Another knowlegeable person said they don't go dormant this young and = continue=20 to water during the summer.  I would guess that if it loses it's = leaves I=20 should water only if it starts to shrivel.  Any = advice?  =20 Sharon in Phoenix


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Yahoo!=20 Platinum - Watch CBS' NCAA March Madness, live=20 on your desktop! ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C2F7CE.96BC9460-- From dtopham1@juno.com Tue Apr 1 17:33:10 2003 From: dtopham1@juno.com (dtopham1@juno.com) Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 10:33:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] garden pests Message-ID: <20030401.103311.-311291.0.dtopham1@juno.com> I have some sort of fly/bug all over my tomato plants. I thought they might be white flies and have sprayed them well but, while I killed what was there more have come back. They are now all over my squash and okra. As I walk through my yard these little flies (I thought were fruit flies eating our dead tangerines) catch on my shirt and I think they are the same fly as are on my plants. They are everywhere in the air and in our yard. What can they be? I think they are hurting our tomatoes plants they are on the stems, leaves and everywhere. Maybe we had two things eating them and now we got rid of the one and these are harmless. In 5 years of gardening here I have never had anything like this. Thanks for your help. ________________________________________________________________ Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today Only $9.95 per month! Visit www.juno.com From BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu Tue Apr 1 16:53:02 2003 From: BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 09:53:02 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tempe Home & Garden Tour Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20030401095256.049e6c08@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_9621344==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed 3rd Annual Tempe Neighborhood Home and Garden Tour Sunday April 27th 10 am to 3 pm We selected 10 homes in the Tempe neighborhoods closest to downtown that showcase the diversity, uniqueness and charm of urban living. Homes were selected on the basis of street appealhomes that we have driven by and exclaimed over and wondered about the interiorhomes that have changed dramatically, been remodeled or renovated with a creative touchhomes that have wonderful landscaping and a special one-of-a-kind style. Tour Tickets $10 ($9 with a can of food to be distributed to local food banks) Meet at JayCee Park, 5th st. And Hardy Homes selected for this year's self-guided tour are within the residential neighborhoods north of Broadway and south of Rio Salado Parkway, west of Rural Road and east of Hardy. Sponsored by NewTown Community Development Corporation A 501 c 3 nonprofit organization serving all Tempe residents ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens --=====================_9621344==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

3rd Annual Tempe Neighborhood Home and Garden Tour

Sunday April 27th
10 am to 3 pm


We selected 10 homes in the Tempe neighborhoods closest to downtown that showcase the diversity, uniqueness and charm of urban living.   Homes were selected on the basis of street appealhomes that we have driven by and exclaimed over and wondered about the interiorhomes that have changed dramatically, been remodeled or renovated with a creative touchhomes that have wonderful landscaping and a special one-of-a-kind style.



Tour Tickets $10
($9 with a can of food to be distributed to local food banks)

Meet at JayCee Park, 5th st. And Hardy



Homes selected for this year’s self-guided tour are within the residential neighborhoods north of Broadway and south of Rio Salado Parkway, west of Rural Road and east of Hardy. 


Sponsored by
NewTown Community Development Corporation
A 501 c 3 nonprofit organization serving all Tempe residents


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ  85040-8807

Phone:  (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax:  (602) 470-8092
email:  BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/
http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens

 --=====================_9621344==_.ALT-- From nobelwolf@cox.net Tue Apr 1 20:28:17 2003 From: nobelwolf@cox.net (nobelwolf@cox.net) Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 13:28:17 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304012028.h31KSHZ01352@Ag.arizona.edu> hi, we just moved here from germany and i am just starting a small garden in my mother in laws backyard. they took down lots of branches from a tree and i was wondering if you knew where we could rent a shredder for a couple of hours. thank you From ali_chen@yahoo.com Tue Apr 1 21:35:01 2003 From: ali_chen@yahoo.com (Alice Chen) Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 13:35:01 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit tree problem Message-ID: <20030401213501.37075.qmail@web41214.mail.yahoo.com> --0-1645218026-1049232901=:34958 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Hi, I have a grapefruit tree that's been in the ground for about a year. It was comming along nicely with lots of flowers until last week when I noticed flowers falling off and ends of limbs turning yellow (now brown!!) and drying up. I think it may have been overwatered. Not sure, had a house sitter for a day. The ground is still damp. Anyone know why this may be happening? What do I do? Thanks for the help! Alice --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - File online, calculators, forms, and more --0-1645218026-1049232901=:34958 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

Hi,

I have a grapefruit tree that's been in the ground for about a year.  It was comming along nicely with lots of flowers until last week when I noticed flowers falling off and ends of limbs turning yellow (now brown!!) and drying up.  I think it may have been overwatered.  Not sure, had a house sitter for a day.  The ground is still damp. Anyone know why this may be happening?  What do I do?

Thanks for the help!

Alice


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Yahoo! Tax Center - File online, calculators, forms, and more --0-1645218026-1049232901=:34958-- From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Tue Apr 1 21:41:41 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 14:41:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] roses and lady bugs Message-ID: <002101c2f89b$843ffac0$ef2c0a3f@ibmbna6040> Lady bugs are a poor investment here in the low desert particularly after the temperature starts to heat up. Lady Bugs just do not like our heat, once they are released they do not stay around long but head for the high country. Take a trip up to the Four Peaks area this time of year and you will see loads of lady bugs. I have good luck keeping aphids at bay by simply washing them off with a strong stream of water. Because the aphids multiply so rapidly you must wash the roses down several times a week. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: ASUsped@aol.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, March 31, 2003 8:47 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] roses and lady bugs > > Hello everyone, > > This is the second time I buy lady bugs for my roses; the first time I >saw them dead all over the place the next day. This time they just >disappeared and I don't find them. > > I let them go at night and I watered the roses and I don't spray my >roses with anything. The only thing I could think of is that even though >there are some Aphids but maybe in small quantity to sustain the lady bugs. I >don't know what I am doing wrong with them........Mike > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Tue Apr 1 22:06:47 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 15:06:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] African Sumac dying Message-ID: <002201c2f89b$85d14920$ef2c0a3f@ibmbna6040> The African Sumac is quite susceptablle to Texas Root Rot particularly if the tree is over watered or the soil does not drain well. Symptoms of TRR are the leaves of one section of tree will very rapidly wilt and turn brown and hang on to the tree. The only positive way to confirm TRR is to have a lab examination of sections of the roots. Take a approximately 8 inch by finger size root section to U. of A., Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for an opinion. Do not wash the sample and keep it refrigerated. If necessary they will send the sample to Tuscon for a lab exam. Another possibility is that the tree has not received adequate water. Last summer was one of the hottest and driest on record consequently if the tree did not get enough water death resulted. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: ivoicespots@worldnet.att.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, March 31, 2003 8:45 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I have two African Sumac thirty year old trees in my yard. One tree has two areas >where sections of the tree have died. The >other tree is fine. Is there anything I can >do to save the tree? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From watsontl@mindspring.com Wed Apr 2 00:55:21 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 17:55:21 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] roses and lady bugs References: <002101c2f89b$843ffac0$ef2c0a3f@ibmbna6040> Message-ID: <001e01c2f8b2$8afd7a10$6621b83f@S0029317241> We have no shortage of beneficial insects that occur naturally here in Arizona (green lacewings come to mind), so there is really no need to puchase lady bugs at all. Instead, grow small, aromatic flowers such as sweet alysum, which attracts a variety of tiny wasps and flies, many of which parasitize insects we consider pests. And go easy on the pesticides, since these kill beneficial and pest alike. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Cc: Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 2:41 PM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] roses and lady bugs > Lady bugs are a poor investment here in the low desert particularly after > the temperature starts to heat up. Lady Bugs just do not like our heat, once > they are released they do not stay around long but head for the high > country. Take a trip up to the Four Peaks area this time of year and you > will see loads of lady bugs. > I have good luck keeping aphids at bay by simply washing them off with a > strong stream of water. Because the aphids multiply so rapidly you must wash > the roses down several times a week. > > Good luck. > > Rod McKusick > Master Gardener > -----Original Message----- > From: ASUsped@aol.com > To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu > Date: Monday, March 31, 2003 8:47 PM > Subject: [Arid_gardener] roses and lady bugs > > > > > > Hello everyone, > > > > This is the second time I buy lady bugs for my roses; the first time > I > >saw them dead all over the place the next day. This time they just > >disappeared and I don't find them. > > > > I let them go at night and I watered the roses and I don't spray my > >roses with anything. The only thing I could think of is that even though > >there are some Aphids but maybe in small quantity to sustain the lady bugs. > I > >don't know what I am doing wrong with them........Mike > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Arid_gardener mailing list > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From swiley11@cox.net Tue Apr 1 22:30:20 2003 From: swiley11@cox.net (swiley11@cox.net) Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 15:30:20 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304012230.h31MUKZ03079@Ag.arizona.edu> I cannot find "pigmy palms" on your website. Does it have another name? Also I have three "Little Johns" which are dying fast. All brown and dreary. Some new growth is coming on but they look pretty bad. Do you have any answers and are they also called by another name. Thank you, Sharon From Bob.Powell@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr 2 07:40:12 2003 From: Bob.Powell@worldnet.att.net (Bob.Powell@worldnet.att.net) Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 00:40:12 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304020740.h327eCZ00821@Ag.arizona.edu> We planted a 15 gallon peach tree 1 yr ago. It looks very healthy & we ahve noticed about 10 peaches forming about the size of a fifty cent piece each. Are we to take these off now to make for a healthier tree later? Also, it seems as if our trees (especially gueen palms) never dry out, though we hear they need frequent summer waterings? Also, the "wells" are constantly filled with little dark green weed that seems to grow quickly. Any suggestions?!? Thank you very much for your time & help! From azmills2001@yahoo.com Wed Apr 2 16:12:36 2003 From: azmills2001@yahoo.com (Dan Mills) Date: Wed, 02 Apr 2003 09:12:36 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] citrus trees Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20030402091201.044cc148@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_2651903==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed we just moved in to a home near tatum and bell. it has five mature citrus trees (among others) in the smallish backyard. they are 6-8 yrs old. they are way too large for the yard. we would like to move two of them to another house in the same neighborhood. can they be transplanted? how far back can they be pruned? thx, dan Dan Mills Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - File online, calculators, forms, and more --=====================_2651903==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
we just moved in to a home near tatum and bell.  it has five mature citrus trees (among others) in the smallish backyard.
they are 6-8 yrs old.  they are way too large for the yard.
we would like to move two of them to another house in the same neighborhood.

can they be transplanted?  how far back can they be pruned?

thx, dan
Dan Mills <azmills2001@yahoo.com>



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Yahoo! Tax Center - File online, calculators, forms, and more --=====================_2651903==_.ALT-- From jmead@blueriver.net Wed Apr 2 16:13:20 2003 From: jmead@blueriver.net (Jerry Mead) Date: Wed, 02 Apr 2003 09:13:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] ironwood Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20030402091258.044caef0@ag.arizona.edu> Hello from Indiana! I have a friend who has a short piece of a limb (maybe trunk?) about 6 inches across of a tree he called Ironwood. He says it came from the southwest though not sure where. This wood is very hard and dense. He had cut in on a saw with much difficulty. The finished cut looks as if it were varnished! The wood is very light in the sap, but the heartwood is dark yellowish brown with dark grain and is very beautiful. I think it would make beautiful bagpipes if you could machine it. I am most interested in identifying this wood and finding out where it grows and if it is available. In the Eastern half of the US, there is an Ironwood also called Hop Hornbeam, but I do not think this piece of wood is that. This wood he has is too dark in the heart to be Hornbeam, from what I am told. I have found a fact sheet on Desert Ironwood (Fabaceae Olneya tesota) but it does not identify what the heartwood looks like or the density. Can you help me? I would appreciate any and all help in this matter. Thank you. Sincerely, Jerry Mead Jerry Mead From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Apr 2 23:50:47 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 02 Apr 2003 23:50:47 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] ironwood Message-ID: Jerry, The wood you describe sounds like our local ironwood, Olneya tesota. The wood is hard, heavy and dense, valued for carving as well as firewood. Carvings show very dark wood with some very light sapwood. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Jerry Mead (by way of Lucy Bradley >) >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] ironwood >Date: Wed, 02 Apr 2003 09:13:20 -0700 > >Hello from Indiana! > I have a friend who has a short piece of a limb (maybe trunk?) >about 6 inches across of a tree he called Ironwood. He says it came >from the southwest though not sure where. This wood is very hard and >dense. He had cut in on a saw with much difficulty. The finished cut >looks as if it were varnished! The wood is very light in the sap, but >the heartwood is dark yellowish brown with dark grain and is very >beautiful. I think it would make beautiful bagpipes if you could >machine it. > I am most interested in identifying this wood and finding out >where it grows and if it is available. In the Eastern half of the US, >there is an Ironwood also called Hop Hornbeam, but I do not think this >piece of wood is that. This wood he has is too dark in the heart to be >Hornbeam, from what I am told. I have found a fact sheet on Desert >Ironwood (Fabaceae Olneya tesota) but it does not identify what the >heartwood looks like or the density. Can you help me? I would >appreciate any and all help in this matter. Thank you. Sincerely, >Jerry Mead >Jerry Mead > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Apr 2 23:59:21 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 02 Apr 2003 23:59:21 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] citrus trees, moving Message-ID: from Cooperative Extension bulletin "Citrus Trees in the Home Garden": The larger tree spades are probably the only satisfactory moving device currently available for moving large established citrus trees. Stress on the transplanted tree is reduced if transplanting is done during the cooler, October-to-February, period. Before moving pruning back a portion of the top branch and leaf area will maintain a better balance between roots and top. Full recovery and regrowth will generally require from several months to a year. Large quantities of water applied in a drip-line-size water basin will be helpful in reducing the transplant shock on mature trees. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Dan Mills (by way of Lucy Bradley >) >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] citrus trees >Date: Wed, 02 Apr 2003 09:12:36 -0700 > > >we just moved in to a home near tatum and bell. it has five mature citrus >trees (among others) in the smallish backyard. >they are 6-8 yrs old. they are way too large for the yard. >we would like to move two of them to another house in the same >neighborhood. > >can they be transplanted? how far back can they be pruned? > >thx, dan >Dan Mills > > > >Do you Yahoo!? >Yahoo! Tax >Center - File online, calculators, forms, and more _________________________________________________________________ Tired of spam? Get advanced junk mail protection with MSN 8. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Apr 3 00:12:31 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 03 Apr 2003 00:12:31 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] pygmy date palm, "Little John" palm Message-ID: Pygmy Date Palm is Phoenix roebelinii There is information about it in the Cooperative Extension bulletin "Arizona Landscape Palms". I have been unable to find any reference to a palm called "Little John". Do you remember where you bought it? The nursery may know the botanical name. Since we do not know what kind of a palm this is, it is hard to say what might be wrong. Check watering schedule and water extent carefully; fertilize lightly with a palm fertilizer that includes micronutrients. Watch to see if new fronds appear to be healthy. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: swiley11@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 15:30:20 -0700 (MST) > >I cannot find "pigmy palms" on your website. >Does it have another name? > >Also I have three "Little Johns" which are dying fast. All brown and >dreary. Some new growth is coming on but they look pretty bad. Do you >have any answers and are they also called by another name. > >Thank you, > >Sharon > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Apr 3 00:27:52 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 03 Apr 2003 00:27:52 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [arid-gardener] mesquite trees dying Message-ID: The trees we have seen are suffering from drought stress. Even though they are being watered, we've had three years of drought that is taking its toll on mature trees. It is distressing to see so many of these 'anchor' trees dying out of the landscape, but so far we have not identified and insect or diesease causing the problem. Linda Drew Master Gardener >Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 22:16:16 -0700 (MST) >From: ggalindo10@msn.com >Comment: I've noticed that alot of mesquite trees are drying out, even >those trees that are being watered. Last weekend while on Yuma Arizona, I >also noticed that mesquite trees are dying in there. I took a drive around >town and is amasing to see how many mesquite trees are dying. Is there >something in the air causing this disturbance? How can this be prevented? >Mesquite trees are among my favorite trees, I hate to see them die.please >advised. > > > _________________________________________________________________ STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From taddiadl@sedona.net Thu Apr 3 03:56:46 2003 From: taddiadl@sedona.net (taddiadl@sedona.net) Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 20:56:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] African Apple Ring Thorn Tree Message-ID: <1311.162.42.83.251.1049342206.squirrel@webmail.cybertrails.com> Sirs, Can you tell us anything about a tree we purchased six years ago, at the Phoenix Botanical Gardens, labeled "African Apple-Ring Thorn Tree, height 80 feet, width 80 feet?" It was an inch in diameter and 6 feet high. Now, it is about 24 feet high and 6 inches in diameter. It is a beautiful tree! We put it in the middle of an acre away from phone lines and water lines. The inconspicuous flowers have a fragrance similar to water lilies. The trunk is a light green covered with a pale powder. The powder appears to keep bugs off the tree. We would be grateful for any information. Thank you -- Larry & Donna Taddia From Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com Thu Apr 3 15:13:29 2003 From: Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com (Zelhart Alan-rpcs30) Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 08:13:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] African Apple Ring Thorn Tree Message-ID: <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B99307054620BD@az33exm25.corp.mot.com> I found lots of info on this tree by doing a google search. I found much more info with it's scientific name instead of its common name. Sounds like a nice tree. Check out the link below for resources: http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&ie=ISO-8859-1&q=%22Faidherbia+albida%22 Chat with you later, Alan -- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ----- Alan Zelhart gizmoaz@cox.net Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- Welcome to scratch-a-tag: ####### <- scratch here for your price -----Original Message----- From: taddiadl@sedona.net [mailto:taddiadl@sedona.net] Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2003 8:57 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] African Apple Ring Thorn Tree Sirs, Can you tell us anything about a tree we purchased six years ago, at the Phoenix Botanical Gardens, labeled "African Apple-Ring Thorn Tree, height 80 feet, width 80 feet?" It was an inch in diameter and 6 feet high. Now, it is about 24 feet high and 6 inches in diameter. It is a beautiful tree! We put it in the middle of an acre away from phone lines and water lines. The inconspicuous flowers have a fragrance similar to water lilies. The trunk is a light green covered with a pale powder. The powder appears to keep bugs off the tree. We would be grateful for any information. Thank you -- Larry & Donna Taddia _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From mldyge@cox.net Thu Apr 3 16:01:15 2003 From: mldyge@cox.net (mldyge@cox.net) Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 09:01:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304031601.h33G1Fe03131@Ag.arizona.edu> Is it ok to plant grape tomatoes started from seed with grape vines. I have plenty of room near them. Thank-you in advance for any info you can give. Melody From s2@auroranow.org Fri Apr 4 16:11:47 2003 From: s2@auroranow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Fri, 04 Apr 2003 09:11:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] monstrous yellowing References: <200304031601.h33G1Fe03131@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3E8DAEC3.CF32BB97@auroranow.org> I have a 30" cereus (monstrous) that I planted last spring that is yellowing. I have all my cacti on a separate drip line and all the other cacti are doing fine, and I've checked that it is, indeed, getting water, but perhaps not enough? Or would yellowing indicate over watering? Just not sure if I should give it a good soaking or plug one of the emitters. Suggestions? -- Sherryl R. Stalinski, M.A. Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation - http://www.auroranow.org Helping human systems create better futures. http://www.IntegrityIncubator.com A program of Aurora Now helping new and young companies succeed Tucson Office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 ===================================================== "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller From maryleeaz4@msn.com Fri Apr 4 05:47:28 2003 From: maryleeaz4@msn.com (maryleeaz4@msn.com) Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 22:47:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304040547.h345k6Rv013703@Ag.arizona.edu> What is the best way to plant a bougainvillaea? From larson_keagy@yahoo.com Fri Apr 4 17:10:38 2003 From: larson_keagy@yahoo.com (larson_keagy@yahoo.com) Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2003 10:10:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304041710.h34HAcmo011457@Ag.arizona.edu> I planted a 15 gallon grapefruit tree in March of 2002. It struggled all summer - as did the five other new fruit trees we planted. This spring everything is beautiful except my poor grapefruit. It got thousands of buds/flowers, and probably fewer than 50 leaves on the whole tree. I;ve picked off lots of buds in hopes leaves would form. I don't see more coming yet. the flowers are dying away now. I am picking off the small fruits forming from the buds. Will my leaves emerge? What can I do? Too much water, too little water? I don't know how to measure it well. Fertilize? Help. Thanks much. I don't want to lose it. Beth Larson-Keagy From robmac@Ag.arizona.edu Fri Apr 4 17:26:16 2003 From: robmac@Ag.arizona.edu (Robert MacArthur) Date: Fri, 04 Apr 2003 10:26:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fw: April 1, 2003 - US Drought Monitor.htm Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20030404102555.01d27458@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_11147158==_.REL Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="=====================_11147158==_.ALT" --=====================_11147158==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed >USDA drought monitor - http://www.drought.unl.edu/dm/index.html > > >---------- >14632987.jpg > >The data cutoff for Drought Monitor maps is Tuesday at 8 a.m. Eastern >Standard Time. The maps, which are based on analysis of the data, are >released each Thursday at 8:30 a.m. Eastern Time. > > >146329c6.jpg > >Click on the icons below for animated maps. > >14632b2d.jpg >14632b3d.jpg >6 weeks.....12 weeks > >---------- >The drought indicators that are synthesized into the Drought Monitor map >are on this website, under >Forecasts and >Current Conditions. >This summary map is based on a multi-index >drought >classification scheme. >For local details and impacts, please contact your >State Climatologist or >Regional Climate Center. >Other Drought >Monitoring Links >Contact People > >Click to see the public information statement regarding >change to >U.S. Drought Monitor impact categories effective Thursday, February 20, 2003. > >National Drought Summary -- April 1, 2003 > >The Plains, Midwest, and Great Lakes: A major storm crossed the Midwest on >March 27-28, dumping more than a foot of snow in northern parts of >Minnesota, Wisconsin, and Michigan, and over an inch of rain elsewhere in >the upper Midwest. Additional rain and snow fell on the 31st. The moisture >resulted in the elimination of D1 drought from southern Minnesota, central >and northern Wisconsin, and Michigan's Upper Peninsula. Precipitation >amounts were less to the west and south, and severe drought remained from >northern Missouri and southern Iowa into Michigan as well as across the >Plains from northern Kansas to western South Dakota. D0 dryness developed >in southeastern Missouri and across northern Arkansas, where March >rainfall was less than 50% of normal. D0 dryness expanded eastward along >the Oklahoma-Texas border, where 60-day rainfall has been less than 40% of >normal. The recent dry weather has caused an outbreak of wildfires across >the south-central United States. > >The Rockies and Far West: Although there were no major storms comparable >to that affecting Colorado and Wyoming in mid-March, a number of weather >systems did bring significant rain and snow to the Rockies, northern Great >Basin, and Pacific Northwest. Liquid equivalents exceeded 1 inch over much >of northern Wyoming, western and northern Idaho, western Oregon, and parts >of western Montana. With snow water content near or above normal across >northwestern Wyoming, D2 conditions improved to D1, and D4 and D3 areas to >the south and east receded. Drought extent also diminished slightly in >Oregon, Idaho, and Montana. In contrast, continuing dry weather in >south-central California resulted in expansion of D0 dryness to the coast >south of San Francisco. > >The Northeast and New England: A coastal low pressure area brought rain >and snow to the Northeast on March 30-31, with liquid amounts reaching >over an inch in parts of northern New England. The resulting moisture >caused a shrinkage of the D0 and D1 areas in northern New England. > >Hawaii: Many parts of Oahu and Maui picked up over an inch of rain this >week, but this was not enough to significantly affect the areas of D0 and >D1 drought. Lesser amounts left drought intact on the Big Island. > >Puerto Rico: Heavy rain exceeding 2 inches fell over central and southern >parts of the island this week, resulting in the D0 area retreating to >northern and eastern areas. > >Alaska: Light to moderate precipitation amounts failed to end the dryness >across southern Alaska. March precipitation in Anchorage was around >one-half of normal and snowfall since January 1 has been one-third of normal. > >Looking Ahead: Weather features to watch in the next 10-day period through >April 12 which may affect areas experiencing dryness or drought include: >Over the next 5 days (April 3-7): 1) a couple of low pressure systems >bringing widespread precipitation to the West, Plains and eastern United >States, with over 0.5 inches in the northern Plains and over 1 inch for >the Great Lakes area and Mississippi Valley; 2) unfavorably dry and warm >weather for the southern Plains, including much of Texas and Oklahoma. For >the 6-10 day period (April 8-12): expect a return to mostly dry weather >across the northern Plains but above-normal rainfall in the southern Plains. > >Author: Douglas Le Comte, Climate >Prediction Center, NWS/NOAA > > >---------- >Monitor | >About Us | >Forecasts | >Current Conditions >| Archive | >What's New | >Contact | >Links Robert MacArthur 218 Forbes University of Arizona Tucson, Az. 85721 520 - 621-2489 --=====================_11147158==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
USDA drought monitor  - http://www.drought.unl.edu/dm/index.html



 
3D"14632987.jpg"

The data cutoff for Drought Monitor maps is Tuesday at 8 a.m. Eastern Standard Time. The maps, which are based on analysis of the data, are released each Thursday at 8:30 a.m. Eastern Time.


 

Click on the icons below for animated maps.

 <= img src=3D"cid:5.1.0.14.2.20030404102555.01d27458@ag.arizona.edu.7" width=3D= 70 height=3D37 alt=3D"14632b3d.jpg">
6 weeks.....12 weeks
The drought indicators that are synthesized into the Drought Monitor map are on this website, under Forecasts and Current Conditions.
This summary map is based on a multi-index = drought classification scheme.
For local details and impacts, please contact your State Climatologist or Regional Climate= Center.
Other Drought= Monitoring Links
Contact= People

Click to see the public information statement regarding change= to U.S. Drought Monitor impact categories effective Thursday, February= 20, 2003.

National Drought Summary -- April 1, 2003

The Plains, Midwest, and Great Lakes: A major storm crossed the= Midwest on March 27-28, dumping more than a foot of snow in northern parts= of Minnesota, Wisconsin, and Michigan, and over an inch of rain elsewhere= in the upper Midwest. Additional rain and snow fell on the 31st.= The moisture resulted in the elimination of D1 drought from southern= Minnesota, central and northern Wisconsin, and Michigan's Upper Peninsula.= Precipitation amounts were less to the west and south, and severe drought= remained from northern Missouri and southern Iowa into Michigan as well as= across the Plains from northern Kansas to western South Dakota. D0 dryness= developed in southeastern Missouri and across northern Arkansas, where= March rainfall was less than 50% of normal. D0 dryness expanded eastward= along the Oklahoma-Texas border, where 60-day rainfall has been less than= 40% of normal. The recent dry weather has caused an outbreak of wildfires= across the south-central United States.

The Rockies and Far West: Although there were no major storms= comparable to that affecting Colorado and Wyoming in mid-March, a number of= weather systems did bring significant rain and snow to the Rockies,= northern Great Basin, and Pacific Northwest. Liquid equivalents exceeded 1= inch over much of northern Wyoming, western and northern Idaho, western= Oregon, and parts of western Montana. With snow water content near or above= normal across northwestern Wyoming, D2 conditions improved to D1, and D4= and D3 areas to the south and east receded. Drought extent also diminished= slightly in Oregon, Idaho, and Montana. In contrast, continuing dry weather= in south-central California resulted in expansion of D0 dryness to the= coast south of San Francisco.

The Northeast and New England: A coastal low pressure area brought= rain and snow to the Northeast on March 30-31, with liquid amounts reaching= over an inch in parts of northern New England. The resulting moisture= caused a shrinkage of the D0 and D1 areas in northern New England.

Hawaii: Many parts of Oahu and Maui picked up over an inch of rain= this week, but this was not enough to significantly affect the areas of D0= and D1 drought. Lesser amounts left drought intact on the Big Island.=

Puerto Rico: Heavy rain exceeding 2 inches fell over central and= southern parts of the island this week, resulting in the D0 area retreating= to northern and eastern areas.

Alaska: Light to moderate precipitation amounts failed to end the= dryness across southern Alaska. March precipitation in Anchorage was around= one-half of normal and snowfall since January 1 has been one-third of= normal.

Looking Ahead: Weather features to watch in the next 10-day= period through April 12 which may affect areas experiencing dryness or= drought include: Over the next 5 days (April 3-7): 1) a couple of low= pressure systems bringing widespread precipitation to the West, Plains and= eastern United States, with over 0.5 inches in the northern Plains and over= 1 inch for the Great Lakes area and Mississippi Valley; 2) unfavorably dry= and warm weather for the southern Plains, including much of Texas and= Oklahoma. For the 6-10 day period (April 8-12): expect a return to mostly= dry weather across the northern Plains but above-normal rainfall in the= southern Plains.

Author: Douglas Le Comte,= Climate Prediction Center, NWS/NOAA

Monitor= | About= Us | Forecasts<= /a> | Current= Conditions | Archive= | What=92s= New | Conta= ct | Links
Robert MacArthur
218 Forbes
University of Arizona
Tucson, Az. 85721
520 - 621-2489


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name="14632b3d.jpg"; x-mac-type="4A504547"; x-mac-creator="4A565752" Content-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20030404102555.01d27458@ag.arizona.edu.7> Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 Content-Disposition: inline; filename="14632b3d.jpg" /9j/4AAQSkZJRgABAQAAAQABAAD/2wBDAAEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEB AQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQH/2wBDAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEB AQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQEBAQH/wAARCAAlAEYDASIA AhEBAxEB/8QAHwAAAQUBAQEBAQEAAAAAAAAAAAECAwQFBgcICQoL/8QAtRAAAgEDAwIEAwUFBAQA AAF9AQIDAAQRBRIhMUEGE1FhByJxFDKBkaEII0KxwRVS0fAkM2JyggkKFhcYGRolJicoKSo0NTY3 ODk6Q0RFRkdISUpTVFVWV1hZWmNkZWZnaGlqc3R1dnd4eXqDhIWGh4iJipKTlJWWl5iZmqKjpKWm p6ipqrKztLW2t7i5usLDxMXGx8jJytLT1NXW19jZ2uHi4+Tl5ufo6erx8vP09fb3+Pn6/8QAHwEA AwEBAQEBAQEBAQAAAAAAAAECAwQFBgcICQoL/8QAtREAAgECBAQDBAcFBAQAAQJ3AAECAxEEBSEx BhJBUQdhcRMiMoEIFEKRobHBCSMzUvAVYnLRChYkNOEl8RcYGRomJygpKjU2Nzg5OkNERUZHSElK U1RVVldYWVpjZGVmZ2hpanN0dXZ3eHl6goOEhYaHiImKkpOUlZaXmJmaoqOkpaanqKmqsrO0tba3 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Do you (1) wait till the stems fall over, or (2) = till they=20 start to turn brown at the tips, then push over the stems and wait a few = weeks?
 
jk
------=_NextPart_000_0029_01C2FABD.9B7CB740-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Apr 5 14:22:45 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 05 Apr 2003 14:22:45 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] when are onions ready to pick Message-ID: Onions ccan be harvested any time as green onions. 1 - Onions are fully mature when their tops have fallen over. After pulling from the ground, allow the onions to dry; clip the roots and cut the tops back to one inch. Store onions in hanging mesh bags or old nylon stockings -- place an onion in the bag and tie a knot or put a plastic tie between onions to keep the separated. The onions that do well here are sweet onions and will store for a shorter time that pungent onions. If onions still have a thick green stem when you harvest, eat immediately or prepare and freeze -- they won't store well. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Jonathan Kandell" >Reply-To: "Jonathan Kandell" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] when are onions ready to pick >Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2003 15:19:38 -0700 > >Do you (1) wait till the stems fall over, or (2) till they start to turn >brown at the tips, then push over the stems and wait a few weeks? > >jk _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail From eberglarry@hotmail.com Sat Apr 5 00:12:24 2003 From: eberglarry@hotmail.com (Larry) Date: Fri, 04 Apr 2003 17:12:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] arid zone plants Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20030404171209.035716f8@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_35468721==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed For the last few years, I've been trying to develop my 3 acres into a less hostile place for people, plants and animals. My dogs and goats both like the fan palms ( about 500 of them in the ground). It is a real chore to keep the goats from destroying the trees before they mature. The most luck I have here is with the mesquites, sweet acacias and the poplars. I currently have about 600 poplar cuttings ready to pot for the summer and plant in the late fall to early winter. These all started from 3 trees a few years ago. I would like to get the hibiscus and cape honeysuckle going too, but don't know when is the best time to take cuttings. Ground water is at about 30-35 feet. . . I'm within 2 miles of the lower Colorado River. Typically there are at least 60 days of 120+ degree heat days here and only around 30-35 freezing days. Also, do you have any suggestions for the Palo Verde. . . the volunteers do well until transplanted or eaten by bugs. . . those grown from seed in pots have trouble after a few months and mostly wither. . . my success rate with Palo Verde species is around 20%. they seem to have a very temperamental water tolerance threshold. . . a little to much and the tips rot, with to little, the brown and die. Can you offer any suggestions. --- Lar "Larry" --=====================_35468721==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" For the last few years, I've been trying to develop my 3 acres into a less hostile place for people, plants and animals. My dogs and goats both like the fan palms ( about 500 of them in the ground). It is a real chore to keep the goats from destroying the trees before they mature. The most luck I have here is with the mesquites, sweet acacias and the poplars. I currently have about 600 poplar cuttings ready to pot for the summer and plant in the late fall to early winter. These all started from 3 trees a few years ago.
 
I would like to get the hibiscus and cape honeysuckle going too, but don't know when is the best time to take cuttings.
 
Ground water is at about 30-35 feet. . . I'm within 2 miles of the lower Colorado River. Typically there are at least 60 days of 120+ degree heat days here and only around 30-35 freezing days.
 
Also, do you have any suggestions for the Palo Verde. . . the volunteers do well until transplanted or eaten by bugs. . . those grown from seed in pots have trouble after a few months and mostly wither. . . my success rate with Palo Verde species is around 20%. they seem to have a very temperamental water tolerance threshold. . . a little to much and the tips rot, with to little, the brown and die.
 
Can you offer any suggestions.
 
---
Lar
"Larry" <eberglarry@hotmail.com> --=====================_35468721==_.ALT-- From larson_keagy@yahoo.com Sat Apr 5 15:51:43 2003 From: larson_keagy@yahoo.com (elizabeth larson) Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2003 07:51:43 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] grapefruit tree question Message-ID: <20030405155143.68127.qmail@web21110.mail.yahoo.com> --0-617799813-1049557903=:67175 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I bought and planted a 15 gallon pink grapefruit tree last March. I live in Tempe. IIt struggled through the hot summer as the other new fruit trees I bought also struggled (plum, orange, fig, and pomegranite). This spring the grapefruit got thousands of blooms, lost all of its old leaves, and grew only about 50 new leaves. Now, its blooms are dying. Will more leaves begin to emerge? That's what I'm hoping for. I don't see any except for the few that grew about a month ago. What can I do? How long can this tree sustain itself with so few leaves in an Arizona summer? Thanks much. Beth Larson --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - File online, calculators, forms, and more --0-617799813-1049557903=:67175 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
I bought and planted a 15 gallon pink grapefruit tree last March.  I live in Tempe.  IIt struggled through the hot summer as the other new fruit trees I bought also struggled (plum, orange, fig, and pomegranite).
 
This spring the grapefruit got thousands of blooms, lost all of its old leaves, and grew only about 50 new leaves.  Now, its blooms are dying.  Will more leaves begin to emerge?  That's what I'm hoping for.  I don't see any except for the few that grew about a month ago.  What can I do?  How long can this tree sustain itself with so few leaves in an Arizona summer?  Thanks much.
 
Beth Larson


Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Tax Center - File online, calculators, forms, and more --0-617799813-1049557903=:67175-- From LEASUREG@aol.com Sat Apr 5 17:15:29 2003 From: LEASUREG@aol.com (LEASUREG@aol.com) Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2003 12:15:29 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Santa Ana Grass Message-ID: --part1_c3.3268780f.2bc06931_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Where can I find Santa Ana Grass seeds? I need to locate a distributor. I first heard of this grass on the New Mexico State University televised extension show. I tried writing my local extension. No response. I wrote the NMSU extension program. No response. I checked my local nurseries. No response. Thank you Mrs. Leasure --part1_c3.3268780f.2bc06931_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Where can I find Santa An= a Grass seeds?  I need to locate a distributor.  

I first heard of this grass on the New Mexico State University televised= extension show.  I tried writing my local extension.  No response= .  I wrote the NMSU extension program.  No response.  I check= ed my local nurseries.  No response.  Thank you

Mrs. Leasure --part1_c3.3268780f.2bc06931_boundary-- From dj.swartz@verizon.net Sat Apr 5 17:38:20 2003 From: dj.swartz@verizon.net (dj.swartz@verizon.net) Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2003 10:38:20 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304051738.h35HcJXd029805@Ag.arizona.edu> The wind just broke my beautiful Bougainvillea shrub about 12 to 15 feet tall. The break is at the base, but didn't completely seperate the trunk. Looking at the exposed trunk break it was all dry as if it had broken before. Is there anyway to heal the break ? I would like to prevent the loss of the shrub. I have severly trimmed back the shrub and tied it up. Is there anything that can be done . Thanks From Jonathan Kandell" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C2FB66.A3C18580 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable My community garden recently decided to put in a bat-house. The guy = claimed the bats would catch mosquitos, and vine borers and other nasty = night insects. I raised the concern they might also catch the predators = I'd worked so hard to stabilize over several years... Anyone have any = experience with bats and vegetable gardens? I do know bat guano works = great, but was wondering about the bats themselves. jk ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C2FB66.A3C18580 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
My community garden recently decided to put in a = bat-house. The guy claimed the bats would catch mosquitos, and vine = borers and=20 other nasty night insects.  I raised the concern they might also = catch the=20 predators I'd worked so hard to stabilize over several = years...  =20 Anyone have any experience with bats and vegetable gardens?  I do = know bat=20 guano works great, but was wondering about the bats = themselves.
 
jk
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C2FB66.A3C18580-- From chuck42@att.net Sat Apr 5 20:42:22 2003 From: chuck42@att.net (chuck42@att.net) Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2003 13:42:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304052042.h35KgLXd020110@Ag.arizona.edu> We live in the Phoenix area and just planted 2 new, pine trees . We want to install a dripper type of irrigation system, but do not know what size to use. Can you please give us some advice? Thanks, Chuck Halm From tadkins1@sc.rr.com Sat Apr 5 23:54:05 2003 From: tadkins1@sc.rr.com (Kathy Adkins) Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2003 18:54:05 -0500 Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: <001501c2fbce$a4771ea0$0200a8c0@sc.rr.com> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C2FBA4.BB7F84E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable could you tell me how to go about starting new cutting from a Lady Bank = Rose ------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C2FBA4.BB7F84E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
could you tell me how to go about = starting new=20 cutting from a Lady Bank Rose
------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C2FBA4.BB7F84E0-- From tedaxland@aol.com Sun Apr 6 13:41:49 2003 From: tedaxland@aol.com (tedaxland@aol.com) Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2003 06:41:49 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304061341.h36DfmXd006119@Ag.arizona.edu> Our Phoenix Agricultural Club is interested in a tour, including Rose Production,harvesting, production etc. We would like your inputs as to best time this coming fall or winter. Also need a person to contact to arrange. We would use Motor Coach, with about 50 on board. Thank you for your assistance. Ted Axland, Executive Director From mhills@seedsolutions.com Sun Apr 6 15:28:50 2003 From: mhills@seedsolutions.com (mhills@seedsolutions.com) Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2003 08:28:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304061528.h36FSnXd014024@Ag.arizona.edu> Liliac - Syringia vulgaris I have heard that there is a variety of Lilac that is more heat tolerant and adapted to the low desert. Supposed to have less of a chilling requirement than the traditioanl varieties grown in other parts of the country. Does anyone on the List have personal experience with this, and perhaps know where a plant can be obtained in the Phoenix area? Our mother misses this plant from her Philadelphia childhood. Thank you, Mike Hills Master Gardener, Maricopa County From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Sun Apr 6 18:31:55 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2003 11:31:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit tree loosing leaves Message-ID: <000801c2fc6a$ce937b60$0e1d0a3f@ibmbna6040> Beth, Citrus trees do not typically bear fruit until they are 4 to 5 years old. The tree will blossom and automatically shed the small fruit until the tree is ready to bear the fruit. Do not fertilize until the tree has been in the ground one year. I suspect that the leaf drop is due to improper irrigation. The following site will tell you how to water properly: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf A bulletin titled CITRUS IN THE HOME GARDEN is available from U. of A., Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for $1.00 and has all the info one needs to care for citrus. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: larson_keagy@yahoo.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Friday, April 04, 2003 5:22 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I planted a 15 gallon grapefruit tree in March of 2002. It struggled all summer - as did the five other new fruit trees we planted. This spring everything is beautiful except my poor grapefruit. It got thousands of buds/flowers, and probably fewer than 50 leaves on the whole tree. I;ve picked off lots of buds in hopes leaves would form. I don't see more coming yet. the flowers are dying away now. I am picking off the small fruits forming from the buds. Will my leaves emerge? What can I do? Too much water, too little water? I don't know how to measure it well. Fertilize? Help. Thanks much. I don't want to lose it. Beth Larson-Keagy > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From mathwiz85015@yahoo.com Sun Apr 6 18:56:27 2003 From: mathwiz85015@yahoo.com (mathwiz85015@yahoo.com) Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2003 11:56:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200304061856.h36IuQXd003630@Ag.arizona.edu> I have planted two almond trees and need to know about harvesting almonds. When are they ready to pick? What do they look like when they are ready to pick? Do the almonds need to be dried? Where can I learn all about growing almond trees in Maricopa Country? From BHelmstetter@msn.com Sun Apr 6 19:32:50 2003 From: BHelmstetter@msn.com (Barbara Helmstetter) Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2003 12:32:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Soil and trees Message-ID: ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C2FC38.A37DE460 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable We are looking for information on soil type and trees (fruit and nut), an= d other domestic plants that will do well in the area of the San Pedro Va= lley north of Sierra Vista. Whatever you can tell us would be helpful. Thank you. ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C2FC38.A37DE460 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
We are looking= for information on soil type and trees (fruit and nut), and other domest= ic plants that will do well in the area of the San Pedro Valley north of = Sierra Vista.  Whatever you can tell us would be helpful.
Thank you.

------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C2FC38.A37DE460-- From popsy97@yahoo.com Sun Apr 6 20:14:05 2003 From: popsy97@yahoo.com (Judy Braden) Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2003 13:14:05 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200304061528.h36FSnXd014024@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20030406201405.75313.qmail@web11003.mail.yahoo.com> I've tried more than once to raise lilacs. Even the ones that take less chill still seem to not get enough here to put them in dormancy. Without the dormancy they won't bloom. My experience has been that they will bloom the first year, maybe a little the second year. After that, they grow foliage but no bloom. Others may have had different experience, but mine was somewhat frustrating. If you miss the look of lilac, try growing some buddleia. If you miss the scent, try some Abelia grandiflora, it has a bit of lilac scent in late summer. --- mhills@seedsolutions.com wrote: > Liliac - Syringia vulgaris > I have heard that there is a variety of Lilac that > is more heat tolerant and adapted to the low desert. > Supposed to have less of a chilling requirement > than the traditioanl varieties grown in other parts > of the country. Does anyone on the List have > personal experience with this, and perhaps know > where a plant can be obtained in the Phoenix area? > Our mother misses this plant from her Philadelphia > childhood. > > Thank you, > Mike Hills > Master Gardener, Maricopa County > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - File online, calculators, forms, and more http://tax.yahoo.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Apr 7 02:07:27 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2003 02:07:27 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] almond trees Message-ID: Here is some information from 2 years ago: According to an old Extension publication that is out of print (#8101 dtd 5/86) almonds can be used in the local home yard landscape for ornamental purposes, but are not considered a producer at this elevation. The high chilling requirement (winter chill hours) are more suitable for a 3,500 foot elevation range. Also, most common almond varieties require cross-pollination to produce a nut crop. At the time of its writing, a self-fertile variety called All-In-One had been recently introduced. If you proceed, watch for piercing type insects such as stink bugs and leaf-footed plant bugs to attack nuts. Linda Guy Master Gardener ------------------------------ Below are harvesting recommendations from Dr. Mike Kilby, Fruit, Nut and Vine Specialist for the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension. As far as care for the tree, treat them in the same way you would a deciduous fruit tree. See the tips in the Arizona Master Gardener Manual on Fruit tree Care: Good Luck Lucy Bradley >Subject: Re: Harvesting Almonds > >You can harvest almonds as soon as the hulls >start to split and they can still be on the tree. You can harvest at this >stage by knocking the nuts from the tree and separating the nuts from the >hulls. In fact you want to knock the nuts from the tree so they will dry. > >From: mathwiz85015@yahoo.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2003 11:56:27 -0700 (MST) > >I have planted two almond trees and need to know about harvesting almonds. >When are they ready to pick? >What do they look like when they are ready to pick? Do the almonds need to >be dried? > >Where can I learn all about growing almond trees in Maricopa Country? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Apr 7 02:17:57 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2003 02:17:57 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] prpagating Rosa banksiae Message-ID: For detailed information, check your local library for the American Horticultural Society's book, "Plant Propagation". Pages 112-113 have detailed, illustrated steps for propagating the Lady Bank's rose. Basically you will want to try softwood cuttings. In early to midsummer, choose healthy shoots of the current season's growth. Rmove by cutting above a node with pruners. Immediately place in a plastic bag to keep fresh and moist. Create internodal cuttings, immerse in fungicidal solution, dip base in rooting hormone and insert cuttings in sterile soil mix. Keep warm and moist until rooted. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Kathy Adkins" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) >Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2003 18:54:05 -0500 > >could you tell me how to go about starting new cutting from a Lady Bank >Rose _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Apr 7 02:31:19 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2003 02:31:19 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] bats good or bad? Message-ID: Good luck with the bat house. Bats consume night-flying insects, such as mosquitoes and moths. Most of your "good guys" such as lacewings and ladybugs, predatory wasps are active during the day. I have not heard of any problem with bats eating good guys. Merlin D. Tuttle's book, "America's Neighborhood Bats", discusses bat's diet of mosquitoes and various agricultural pests. I have (so far) been unsuccessful in convincing bats in Tucson to use a bat house. The ones in my neighborhood favor the huge old eucalyptus trees for roosts -- and also the UA football stadium and under the Pantano bridge. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Jonathan Kandell" >Reply-To: "Jonathan Kandell" >To: , "Organic Gardenling List" > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] bats good or bad? >Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2003 11:29:37 -0700 > >My community garden recently decided to put in a bat-house. The guy claimed >the bats would catch mosquitos, and vine borers and other nasty night >insects. I raised the concern they might also catch the predators I'd >worked so hard to stabilize over several years... Anyone have any >experience with bats and vegetable gardens? I do know bat guano works >great, but was wondering about the bats themselves. > >jk _________________________________________________________________ Tired of spam? Get advanced junk mail protection with MSN 8. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Apr 7 02:45:33 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2003 02:45:33 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Santa Ana Grass Message-ID: Good question. From what I've been able to find, Santa Ana is normally planted as sod and seed does not seem to be available. The sterile hybrid bermudas (like SAnta Ana) are popualr because they do not cause allergies, but they also cannot produce viable seed. Other bermudas (like Sahara) do produce viable seed and can be grown from seed, but also cause allergies in some people. Here is some information from earlier discussions: There are several varieties of seeded bermudagrasses. Santa Ana is not one of them. Sahara is one example of seeded Bermuda that is drought tolerant and denser and lower growing than common Bermuda. If you can't find suitable seeded bermudagrasses locally, try a web search or look at www.bermudagrass.com. Santa Ana is a vigorous, sterile berbudagrass hybrid. If it is a true hybrid, there was seed to get it started, but that seed would have been produced by crossing two different varieties, resulting in a third (Santa Ana in this case). Because the Santa Ana is bred to be a sterile hybrid, it can't produce a next generation on its own, so you would need the original grasses that were crossed in the first place. Nothing special here (except for the sterility part) - this is how we get hybrid tomatoes, petunias, beets, etc. >From: LEASUREG@aol.com >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Santa Ana Grass >Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2003 12:15:29 EST > >Where can I find Santa Ana Grass seeds? I need to locate a distributor. > >I first heard of this grass on the New Mexico State University televised >extension show. I tried writing my local extension. No response. I wrote >the NMSU extension program. No response. I checked my local nurseries. >No >response. Thank you > >Mrs. Leasure _________________________________________________________________ Help STOP SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com Mon Apr 7 03:36:47 2003 From: Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com (Zelhart Alan-rpcs30) Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2003 20:36:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rose Cuttings Message-ID: <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B993070477EBA1@az33exm25.corp.mot.com> I posted this from home, but some how it never made it through. Below is an excellent link to a site that shows you how to start cuttings. It has the procedure step by step with lots of photo's to boot. http://www.rdrop.com/~paul/hulse.html I have used this procedure several times with excellent results. Good luck! Chat with you later... Alan ----- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ----- Alan Zelhart gizmoaz@cox.net Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- George Orwell was an optimist -----Original Message----- From: Kathy Adkins To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Sent: 4/5/03 4:54 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) could you tell me how to go about starting new cutting from a Lady Bank Rose From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Apr 7 13:16:11 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2003 13:16:11 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Soil and trees Message-ID: For information on fruit & nut trees suitable for your area: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/fruit/planting.html#varieties And check with Cooperative Extension Offices near you: http://cals.arizona.edu/cochise Cochise County Cooperative Extension 450 S. Haskell Avenue Willcox, AZ 85643-2790 Phone: (520) 384-3594 Fax: (520) 384-3681 Satellite Office Location 1140 N. Colombo Sierra Vista, AZ 85635 Phone: (520) 458-8278 ext 2141 Fax: (520) 458-5823 or 626-2492 (Tucson) Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Barbara Helmstetter" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Soil and trees >Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2003 12:32:50 -0700 > >We are looking for information on soil type and trees (fruit and nut), and >other domestic plants that will do well in the area of the San Pedro Valley >north of Sierra Vista. Whatever you can tell us would be helpful. >Thank you. _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From GardenGuy@gardenerscorner.com Sun Apr 6 20:08:29 2003 From: GardenGuy@gardenerscorner.com (GardenerGuy) Date: Sun, 06 Apr 2003 13:08:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) References: <001501c2fbce$a4771ea0$0200a8c0@sc.rr.com> Message-ID: <3E90893D.75DC1DED@gardenerscorner.com> --------------78403916534B845397529B98 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Kathy, Check out the following website for starting roses from cuttings. I've started several this way, and it seems to work very well. It includes step by step pictures and everything! :) http://www.rdrop.com/~paul/hulse.html -- Chat with you later... Alan ----- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ----- Alan Zelhart gizmoaz@cox.net Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- "I owe, I owe, it's off to work I go""" Kathy Adkins wrote: > could you tell me how to go about starting new cutting from a Lady > Bank Rose --------------78403916534B845397529B98 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Kathy,

Check out the following website for starting roses from cuttings.  I've started several this way, and it seems to work very well.  It includes step by step pictures and everything! :)

http://www.rdrop.com/~paul/hulse.html

--
Chat with you later...
Alan
-----
Chandler, Arizona        Sunset Zone: 13
http://www.GardenersCorner.com
-----
Alan Zelhart
gizmoaz@cox.net
Gardens Co-listowner
http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html
-----
 "I owe, I owe, it's off to work I go"""

Kathy Adkins wrote:

could you tell me how to go about starting new cutting from a Lady Bank Rose

 
 
  --------------78403916534B845397529B98-- From stevendrew@mindspring.com Sun Apr 6 23:11:10 2003 From: stevendrew@mindspring.com (Steven C. Drew) Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2003 16:11:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: santa anna Message-ID: <002201c2fc91$d13e6560$c1c856d1@Global> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001F_01C2FC57.233008A0 Co