From sbarvian@prodigy.net Fri Aug 1 17:43:07 2003 From: sbarvian@prodigy.net (Scott Barvian) Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 10:43:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] varieties of rosemary Message-ID: <006701c35854$5f3df920$ae054bab@lbmelman> I have a prostrate rosemary bush in my yard. It is a small compact bush with curved branches. An old newspaper article from the Az. Republic has a chart of herbs that are commonly grown. For Rosemary, it has the comment "Culinary variety is straight-limbed." Does it really matter? The Western Garden book lists several varieties but doesn't identify any as a "culinary variety". And I've found nothing on the internet about this either. From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Fri Aug 1 18:20:52 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 11:20:52 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question about Peach Trees Message-ID: <001201c35859$bac656c0$1f2c0a3f@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C3581E.F7B80000 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Jaylene, Sounds like your summer temps are similiar to what we have here in the = Phoenix area. However our annual rainfall is only about 7 inches. I don't know what your soil conditions are. If you have a clay soil as = is much of our soil here in the Phoenix area your watering needs would = be similiar to ours. Here summer watering would be to deep water once a = week to a depth of two to three feet. If you have a basin around the = tree then 4 to 6 inches of water should be applied. If your soil is = sandy then the tree should be watered more often. For winter watering = gradually increase the interval substantially to once every 30 days. For more detailed information check with your county Cooperative = Extension, you will find them listed in your phone book under County = Government and their service is free. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: Jaylene Robinson To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Thursday, July 31, 2003 3:36 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question about Peach Trees I found your email address on the web and am not sure if you can even = help, but if you can I would appreciate a response. I have a desert = peach tree and am wondering how often and for how long it should be = watered. I live in St. George Utah where the summer temps reach 110-115 = and are there for 5-6 months out of the year. Thank you for any advice. = Thanks! Jaylene Robinson beanheadjmr@yahoo.com=20 -------------------------------------------------------------------------= ----- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software ------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C3581E.F7B80000 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Jaylene,

Sounds like your summer temps are similiar to what = we have=20 here in the Phoenix area. However our annual rainfall is only about 7=20 inches.

I don't know what your soil conditions are. If you = have a clay=20 soil as is much of our soil here in the Phoenix area your watering needs = would=20 be similiar to ours. Here summer watering would be to deep water = once a=20 week to a depth of two to three feet. If you have a basin around the = tree then 4=20 to 6 inches of water should be applied. If your soil is sandy then = the tree=20 should be watered more often. For winter watering = gradually increase the=20 interval substantially to once every 30 days.

For more detailed information check with your county = Cooperative Extension, you will find them listed in your phone book = under County=20 Government and their service is free.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick

Master Gardener

-----Original = Message-----
From:=20 Jaylene Robinson <beanheadjmr@yahoo.com>
To: = arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu = <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Date:=20 Thursday, July 31, 2003 3:36 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Question=20 about Peach Trees

I found your email address on the web and am not sure if you can = even=20 help, but if you can I would appreciate a response. I have a desert = peach tree=20 and am wondering how often and for how long it should be watered. I = live in=20 St. George Utah where the summer temps reach 110-115 and are there for = 5-6=20 months out of the year. Thank you for any advice. Thanks! = Jaylene=20 Robinson beanheadjmr@yahoo.com

Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo!=20 SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design=20 software ------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C3581E.F7B80000-- From boojumsqueek@aol.com Fri Aug 1 19:03:05 2003 From: boojumsqueek@aol.com (boojumsqueek@aol.com) Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 12:03:05 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200308011903.h71J35Jv008098@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a grapefruit tree that is having two problems. 1) the bark is splitting in a few places and sap is running out. 2) all the leaves on a number of large branches have suddenly died for no apparent reason. The rest of the branches appear normal. What is likely causing these problems and what can be done? From adamtoback@yahoo.com Fri Aug 1 20:36:55 2003 From: adamtoback@yahoo.com (Adam Toback) Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 13:36:55 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Squash Bugs (Anasa Tristi) Message-ID: <20030801203655.51631.qmail@web41205.mail.yahoo.com> I have a number of squash plants and I noticed about 2 weeks ago these Squash Bugs on the plants. I have a 32 ounce squirt bottle that I fill with vinegar, dish soap and Hot sauce to control these bugs. I spray under the leaves and hit the young new ones that are hatching. It seems to control them for a couple of days but they come back --even more. Can you suggest anything else that I could use to control these squash bugs? What about a tobacco tea? I want to use something that is organic and not a commercial pesticide. ===== Adam Toback 602-438-0270 __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com From jchapman166@cox.net Sat Aug 2 01:11:34 2003 From: jchapman166@cox.net (John Chapman) Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 18:11:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question about Peach Trees In-Reply-To: <20030731211631.27107.qmail@web41603.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C35858.57C991A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jaylene, Your own county cooperative extension will have publications for varieties best suited for your climate and you have an office right in St. George. For details, Click on this http://extension.usu.edu/cooperative/index.cfm/cid.256/tid.366/ Your county cooperative extension is a priceless jewel of gardening information, it is the mother lode, the gold mine. Ask them all your questions and they can direct you correctly. John Chapman -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Jaylene Robinson Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2003 2:17 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question about Peach Trees I found your email address on the web and am not sure if you can even help, but if you can I would appreciate a response. I have a desert peach tree and am wondering how often and for how long it should be watered. I live in St. George Utah where the summer temps reach 110-115 and are there for 5-6 months out of the year. Thank you for any advice. Thanks! Jaylene Robinson beanheadjmr@yahoo.com _____ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C35858.57C991A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Ja= ylene,

Yo= ur own county cooperative extension will have publications for varieties best suited = for your climate and you have an office right in St. George. =

Fo= r details, Click on this = http://extension.usu.edu/cooperative/index.cfm/cid.256/tid.366/ Your county cooperative = extension is a priceless jewel of gardening information, it is the mother lode, = the gold mine. Ask them all your questions and they can direct you = correctly. = ; John Chapman

-----Original Message-----
From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu = [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Jaylene Robinson
Sent: Thursday, July 31, = 2003 2:17 PM
To: = arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Question about Peach Trees

I found your email address on the = web and am not sure if you can even help, but if you can I would appreciate a = response. I have a desert peach tree and am wondering how often and for how long = it should be watered. I live in St. George Utah where the summer temps = reach 110-115 and are there for 5-6 months out of the year. Thank you = for any advice. Thanks! Jaylene Robinson beanheadjmr@yahoo.com <= /p>

Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design = software<= /p>

------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C35858.57C991A0-- From watsontl@mindspring.com Sat Aug 2 01:11:42 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 18:11:42 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fw: Trees.... Message-ID: <003201c35893$095f4060$0309b83f@S0029317241> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_002F_01C35858.5C310A70 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Anybody have an answer we can pass along? Tom ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Paul Watson=20 To: Tom & Linda Watson=20 Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2003 8:11 PM Subject: Fw: Trees.... Hi Tom, This is from a friend of mine who just had her house painted. It's more = up your alley than mine. The "paint rinse water" is exterior paint. = The trees are Evergreen Elms. Let me know please and I'll forward your info to her. Thanks, Paul I went out to water my Elm trees in the backyard because the leaves were = turning yellow and falling off. I figured it was the heat and that they = needed water. Well, I discovered that Jim Hyne's paint crew used my = tree wells as a paint waste water disposal site! Do you know if paint = rinse water will kill the trees? Boy am I ticked! I've spent the last = 5 years nurturing those trees and they come along and kill em in fell = swoop! (Well, they're not dead yet, but still...) Any idea what I can = do to keep them alive? My front Queen Palm looks like it's withering up = too. I don't know if they dumped anything in those wells or not, it = didn't look like it, but I'll look closer in the morning.=20 ------=_NextPart_000_002F_01C35858.5C310A70 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Anybody have an answer we can = pass=20 along?

Tom

----- Original Message -----=20

From: Paul = Watson

To: Tom & Linda Watson =

Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2003 8:11 PM

Subject: Fw: Trees....

Hi = Tom,

This is from a friend = of mine who=20 just had her house painted. It's more up your alley than = mine. The=20 "paint rinse water" is exterior paint. The trees are Evergreen=20 Elms.

Let me know please and = I'll forward=20 your info to her.

Thanks,

Paul

I went out to water my Elm trees in the backyard = because=20 the leaves were turning yellow and falling off. I figured it was = the heat=20 and that they needed water. Well, I discovered that Jim Hyne's = paint crew=20 used my tree wells as a paint waste water disposal site! Do you = know if=20 paint rinse water will kill the trees? Boy am I ticked! I've = spent=20 the last 5 years nurturing those trees and they come along and kill em = in fell=20 swoop! (Well, they're not dead yet, but still...) Any idea = what I=20 can do to keep them alive? My front Queen Palm looks like it's = withering=20 up too. I don't know if they dumped anything in those wells or = not, it=20 didn't look like it, but I'll look closer in the morning.=20

------=_NextPart_000_002F_01C35858.5C310A70-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Aug 2 15:38:27 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 02 Aug 2003 15:38:27 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Squash Bugs (Anasa Tristi) Message-ID: from The Organic Gardener's Handbook: Maintain vigorous plant growth; handpick all stages of squash bugs from undersides of leaves; support vines off the ground on trellises; attract native parasitic flies with pollen and nectar plants; cover plants with floating row cover (you'll need to hand-pollinate flowers). Remove garden litter and vines in the fall. >From: Adam Toback >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Squash Bugs (Anasa Tristi) >Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 13:36:55 -0700 (PDT) > >I have a number of squash plants and I noticed about 2 >weeks ago these Squash Bugs on the plants. I have a 32 >ounce squirt bottle that I fill with vinegar, dish >soap and Hot sauce to control these bugs. I spray >under the leaves and hit the young new ones that are >hatching. It seems to control them for a couple of >days but they come back --even more. Can you suggest >anything else that I could use to control these squash >bugs? What about a tobacco tea? I want to use >something that is organic and not a commercial pesticide. > >===== >Adam Toback >602-438-0270 > >__________________________________ >Do you Yahoo!? >Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software >http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From watsontl@mindspring.com Sat Aug 2 17:41:43 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2003 10:41:43 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Squash Bugs (Anasa Tristi) References: Message-ID: <001001c3591d$57c2be50$f350b83f@S0029317241> The main thing to keep in mind here is persistence. They'll stage come-backs between sprayings, but if you keep spraying (and perhaps hand-picking any adults you can catch) you will eventually win, and in the meantime limit the damage they do. Neem is said to interfere with the normal development of the young ones and to repel new arrivals, so you might want to try that along with the spray you're using now. Floating row covers work well if you put them up before the problem appears. They won't be much use now, but I recommend trying them in the future. Make sure they are NOT the sort that provides frost protection - it's plenty warm enough now as it is! (Gardens Alive sell the right sort, if you can't find them elsewhere). Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Linda Drew" To: ; Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2003 8:38 AM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Squash Bugs (Anasa Tristi) > > from The Organic Gardener's Handbook: > > Maintain vigorous plant growth; handpick all stages of squash > bugs from undersides of leaves; support vines off the ground > on trellises; attract native parasitic flies with pollen and nectar > plants; cover plants with floating row cover (you'll need to > hand-pollinate flowers). Remove garden litter and vines in the > fall. > > >From: Adam Toback > >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Squash Bugs (Anasa Tristi) > >Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 13:36:55 -0700 (PDT) > > > >I have a number of squash plants and I noticed about 2 > >weeks ago these Squash Bugs on the plants. I have a 32 > >ounce squirt bottle that I fill with vinegar, dish > >soap and Hot sauce to control these bugs. I spray > >under the leaves and hit the young new ones that are > >hatching. It seems to control them for a couple of > >days but they come back --even more. Can you suggest > >anything else that I could use to control these squash > >bugs? What about a tobacco tea? I want to use > >something that is organic and not a commercial pesticide. > > > >===== > >Adam Toback > >602-438-0270 > > > >__________________________________ > >Do you Yahoo!? > >Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software > >http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com > >_______________________________________________ > >Arid_gardener mailing list > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _________________________________________________________________ > STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* > http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From donald.miller@asu.edu Sat Aug 2 20:58:33 2003 From: donald.miller@asu.edu (donald.miller@asu.edu) Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2003 13:58:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200308022058.h72KwXJv026964@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a grapefruit tree that has the fungus that causes phytophthora gummosis. It has the red gummy sap-like substance on several places on the trunk and all the leaves on one branch have died. I have bought Monterey aliete (aluminum tris (O-ethyl phosphonate) 80%)and Dexol Bordeaux Powder (12.75% mettalic copper) - but I don't know which to use and most importantly what the ratio of powder to water is for either of these - the labels don't seem to say. I'm also not sure whether to spray the whole tree or just soak the ground around it and apply to the trunk. I have a nectarine, plum and apricot with the same problem. Thanks ahead of time for any help you can give on this. don miller From jchapman166@cox.net Sat Aug 2 22:51:00 2003 From: jchapman166@cox.net (John Chapman) Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2003 15:51:00 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <000801c354cb$1194bb00$6501a8c0@cx984686b> Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0002_01C3590D.DEF5BF40 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Matt, San Diego Red seems to be the most durable, but I have grown and seen grown many colors grown on a west exposure which is the summers hottest. Hibiscus don�t like their roots damp all the time so you have to let them dry out some between irrigations. Here are a couple of websites for varieties and advise. http://www.hiddenvalleyhibiscus.com http://www.trop-hibiscus.com/index.html John Chapman -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of brucker1 Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2003 10:43 PM To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) I stumbled across some postings related to Hibiscus growth in Arizona while doing some research and thought you might be able to help me out. I live in Phoenix and looking to plant a few dozen hibicus in my back yard. I am looking at them as a replacement for Olenader and plan on trimming them into more of a hedge to block an ugly fence and provide some privacy for the yard. I plan on putting them on a drip system, so they will get plenty of water. My question is which type of hibiscus should I chose. I have read that the hybrid types are not as hearty as the garden type variety and somewhere I saw that standard red will handle the heat the best. Is this true? In addition, which breed will lend themselves to more of a hedge type? (ie thick growth instead of thin/spindly growth). Any information you could pass along would be greatly appreciated! Thanks! Matt Brucker ------=_NextPart_000_0002_01C3590D.DEF5BF40 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Ma= tt,

= ; San Diego Red seems to be the most durable, but I have grown and seen grown = many colors grown on a west exposure which is the summers hottest. Hibiscus = don’t like their roots damp all the time so you have to let them dry out some = between irrigations. Here are a couple of websites for varieties and = advise.

http://www.hiddenvalleyhibi= scus.com

http://www.trop-hibiscus= .com/index.html = ; = John Chapman

-----Original Message-----
From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu = [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of brucker1
Sent: Sunday, July 27, = 2003 10:43 PM
To: = Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = (no subject)

I stumbled across some postings = related to Hibiscus growth in Arizona while doing some research and thought you = might be able to help me out. I live in Phoenix and looking to plant a few = dozen hibicus in my back yard. I am looking at them as a replacement for = Olenader and plan on trimming them into more of a hedge to block an ugly fence and = provide some privacy for the yard. I plan on putting them on a drip system, so = they will get plenty of water.<= /p>

<= /p>

My question is which type of = hibiscus should I chose. I have read that the hybrid types are not as hearty as = the garden type variety and somewhere I saw that standard red will handle = the heat the best. Is this true? In addition, which breed will lend themselves to = more of a hedge type? (ie thick growth instead of thin/spindly = growth).<= /p>

<= /p>

Any information you could pass = along would be greatly appreciated!<= /p>

<= /p>

Thanks!<= /p>

<= /p>

Matt Brucker<= /p>

------=_NextPart_000_0002_01C3590D.DEF5BF40-- From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Sun Aug 3 19:36:51 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2003 12:36:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus with dying leaves and gumming Message-ID: <001a01c359f6$97af97c0$5631db43@ibmbna6040> Bark splitting and gumming are symptoms of Rio Grande Gummosis. This typically occurs in trees that are over 15 years old and is usually not fatal. I'm concerned about the leaves dying rapidly, this is a symptom of Texas Root Rot particularly if the leaves hang on to the tree. TRR is a fatal disease. Citrus trees are resistant but not immune to TRR. I suggest that you take a 6 to 8 inch long by finger size root sample to U. of A., Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for a lab exam. Do not wash the sample but refrigerate in a plastic bag. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: boojumsqueek@aol.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Saturday, August 02, 2003 6:07 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I have a grapefruit tree that is having two problems. 1) the bark is splitting in a few places and sap is running out. 2) all the leaves on a number of large branches have suddenly died for no apparent reason. The rest of the branches appear normal. What is likely causing these problems and what can be done? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From smith.dennis.m.k@worldnet.att.net Mon Aug 4 00:07:49 2003 From: smith.dennis.m.k@worldnet.att.net (smith.dennis.m.k@worldnet.att.net) Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2003 17:07:49 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200308040007.h7407nJv017981@Ag.arizona.edu> How do I get information on obtaining a permit to remove cacti and other desert plants from proposed highway and development sites. I am only interested in a few cacti for my yard. Thank you. From jkasko@getnet.net Mon Aug 4 00:50:43 2003 From: jkasko@getnet.net (jkasko@getnet.net) Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2003 17:50:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200308040050.h740ohJv020414@Ag.arizona.edu> i found what i thought was a japanese beetle in my yard today, but all the pictures and descriptions aren't matching up. If anyone has Insects of the Southwest by Werner/Oslon - there is a picture of this beetle on the cover - third row down, third one over. metallic bright green and alittle over an inch long. just would like to know for sure what this is. thanks. From dsmontgomery@adelphia.net Mon Aug 4 04:16:11 2003 From: dsmontgomery@adelphia.net (dsmontgomery@adelphia.net) Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2003 21:16:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200308040416.h744GBJv010579@Ag.arizona.edu> I am in Yuma with the "yellowing oleander" problem. Very sandy soil, bushes at least 7 years old, drip watering 10 minutes twice a week. On one side of the driveway, there is one oleander with some Mexican bird of paradise and some other plants, all just growing great. On the other side are five oleanders losing the majority of their leaves, which are a glossy yellow with burnt-looking ends, but the plants are still blooming! I'm guessing not enough water (the sand and all) but looking for confirmation -- I hate to get that other side growing even better! If too little water, should I add (a) a cycle [day] or (b) increase the length of time? Or maybe I'm watering all wrong! Thanks for any suggestions. Dave From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net Mon Aug 4 04:33:28 2003 From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2003 21:33:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fig Beetle References: <200308040050.h740ohJv020414@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000801c35a41$8fc65620$2353530c@olin> Sounds like a fig beetle. Sometimes called a "green" Junebug or "green" June Beetle. Described on page 73 of Werner and Olson. Try googling using "fig beetle" and see if any of the photos match. It's a pretty common scarab larva in compost in the winter. Feeds mostly on decayed material. Not a serious pest in AZ but grubs are often a problem elsewhere. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > i found what i thought was a japanese beetle in my yard today, but all the pictures and descriptions aren't matching up. > If anyone has Insects of the Southwest by Werner/Oslon - there is a picture of this beetle on the cover - third row down, third one over. metallic bright green and alittle over an inch long. > just would like to know for sure what this is. thanks. From gwright@Ag.arizona.edu Mon Aug 4 19:02:41 2003 From: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu (Glenn C. Wright) Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2003 12:02:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: proper pruning of lime tree Message-ID: <5.1.1.6.2.20030804120232.02809e80@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_255962781==.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed >From: "Doran, Thomas" >To: "'gwright@ag.arizona.edu'" >Subject: proper pruning of lime tree >Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 13:26:50 -0400 >X-Mailer: Internet Mail Service (5.5.2653.19) > > >Mr. Wright, I live in Sun City Grand and had a lime tree planted a year ago >and it stands about 8 feet tall and it is loaded with limes. I use >Arizona's Best citrus fertilizer three times a year and the tree is doing >very well as far a production is concerned. The tree is laden with fruit >and I had to support the trunk in a triangular tie as it began to lean over >with the winds. > >I really need some guidance on when and how to prune the lime tree without >damaging the tree or the crop that many friends enjoy with their gin and >tonic. I have searched the web in an attempt to find information on when >and how to prune the tree to no avail. Can you direct me to a book (with >pictures of proper pruning) and tell me when I should attempt to shape the >tree to control its growth and thin out what appears to be growth in every >direction? > >Any guidance or assistance would be greatly appreciated. Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D. Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist University of Arizona - Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center 2186 W. County 15th Street Somerton, AZ 85350 Phone: 928-726-0458 FAX: 928-726-1363 e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu --=====================_255962781==.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

From: "Doran, Thomas" <Thomas.Doran@Detroitdiesel.com>
To: "'gwright@ag.arizona.edu'" <gwright@Ag.arizona.edu>
Subject: proper pruning of lime tree
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 13:26:50 -0400
X-Mailer: Internet Mail Service (5.5.2653.19)

Mr. Wright, I live in Sun City Grand and had a lime tree planted a year ago
and it stands about 8 feet tall and it is loaded with limes. I use
Arizona's Best citrus fertilizer three times a year and the tree is doing
very well as far a production is concerned. The tree is laden with fruit
and I had to support the trunk in a triangular tie as it began to lean over
with the winds.

I really need some guidance on when and how to prune the lime tree without
damaging the tree or the crop that many friends enjoy with their gin and
tonic. I have searched the web in an attempt to find information on when
and how to prune the tree to no avail. Can you direct me to a book (with
pictures of proper pruning) and tell me when I should attempt to shape the
tree to control its growth and thin out what appears to be growth in every
direction?

Any guidance or assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D.
Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist
University of Arizona - Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center
2186 W. County 15th Street
Somerton, AZ 85350
Phone: 928-726-0458
FAX: 928-726-1363
e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu --=====================_255962781==.ALT-- From cziemke@wi.rr.com Mon Aug 4 19:33:32 2003 From: cziemke@wi.rr.com (dziemke) Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2003 14:33:32 -0500 Subject: [Arid_gardener] re/question Message-ID: We have a blue spruce large tree, and we were curious as to why there's a large number of small moths that have just came this year, must be at least hundreds of them. Is there a reason, and will they hurt the tree. It's a very old and large beautiful tree. Any answers out there? Thank you From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Mon Aug 4 22:44:10 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 15:44:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oleander leaves yellowing Message-ID: <001201c35ad9$ed13b280$e12c0a3f@ibmbna6040> Dave The rule of thumb for watering shrubs is to water the entire root zone to a depth of two feet. Depending on soil conditions this will take from two to three hours with a drip system. Summer time watering interval should be from 7 to 10 days. Call your county Cooperative Extension to see if they have the free booklet titled LANDSCAPE WATERING BY THE NUMBERS published by Arizona Water Users Association, it has great info on proper landscape watering. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: dsmontgomery@adelphia.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, August 04, 2003 6:14 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I am in Yuma with the "yellowing oleander" problem. Very sandy soil, bushes at least 7 years old, drip watering 10 minutes twice a week. On one side of the driveway, there is one oleander with some Mexican bird of paradise and some other plants, all just growing great. On the other side are five oleanders losing the majority of their leaves, which are a glossy yellow with burnt-looking ends, but the plants are still blooming! I'm guessing not enough water (the sand and all) but looking for confirmation -- I hate to get that other side growing even better! If too little water, should I add (a) a cycle [day] or (b) increase the length of time? Or maybe I'm watering all wrong! Thanks for any suggestions. >Dave > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From lehicats@aol.com Mon Aug 4 15:42:46 2003 From: lehicats@aol.com (lehicats@aol.com) Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 08:42:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200308041542.h74Fgk5M018483@Ag.arizona.edu> 12 months ago i planted a bare root shammel ash tree. it did well until about 4 or 5 weeks ago. now the leaves are turning brown and even the new growth at the top has leaves that are turning brown. i water it every 2 weeks until a soil probe goes down 2 feet. please help. i don't want the tree to die. cathy From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Aug 4 16:04:09 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2003 16:04:09 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] yellowing oleander Message-ID: Might be best to try your local experts for advice: http://ag.arizona.edu/yuma/urbanhorticulture/askaquestion.htm email to: plantdoc@ag.arizona.edu The symptoms do sound like not enough water. since the soil is very sandy, might want to start be increasing the frequency -- but keep in mind I have little experience with your soils and the people in Yuma can give you better advice. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: dsmontgomery@adelphia.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2003 21:16:11 -0700 (MST) > >I am in Yuma with the "yellowing oleander" problem. Very sandy soil, >bushes at least 7 years old, drip watering 10 minutes twice a week. On one >side of the driveway, there is one oleander with some Mexican bird of >paradise and some other plants, all just growing great. On the other side >are five oleanders losing the majority of their leaves, which are a glossy >yellow with burnt-looking ends, but the plants are still blooming! I'm >guessing not enough water (the sand and all) but looking for confirmation >-- I hate to get that other side growing even better! If too little water, >should I add (a) a cycle [day] or (b) increase the length of time? Or >maybe I'm watering all wrong! Thanks for any suggestions. >Dave > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Aug 4 16:14:46 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2003 16:14:46 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] fig beetle/japanese beetle Message-ID: I think you are seeing the green fig beetle (Cotinus mutabilis), the picture you indicated (page 72 in "Insects of the Southwest"). I have a couple dozen flying around in my yard right now. They love to eat ripe fruit, such as figs. The larvae is a large white grub that I will begin seeing in my compost pile in a few weeks to speed the composting process along. We've had several reports of the Japanese beetle (Popillia japonica), but so far all those examined have been a local native that looks similar but is somewhat less shiny and metallic. The Japanses beetle is a common pest in flowers and lawns of the eastern U.S. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: jkasko@getnet.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2003 17:50:43 -0700 (MST) > >i found what i thought was a japanese beetle in my yard today, but all the >pictures and descriptions aren't matching up. > >If anyone has Insects of the Southwest by Werner/Oslon - there is a picture >of this beetle on the cover - third row down, third one over. metallic >bright green and alittle over an inch long. > >just would like to know for sure what this is. thanks. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Aug 4 16:22:28 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2003 16:22:28 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Arizona native plant law/ moving cactus Message-ID: The Arizona Department of Agriculture is the agency that issues permits. For more information: http://agriculture.state.az.us/PSD/nativeplants.htm and click on "Procedures" for details on what to do and click on "District Office Addresses" for the office nearest you. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: smith.dennis.m.k@worldnet.att.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2003 17:07:49 -0700 (MST) > > How do I get information on obtaining a permit to remove cacti and >other desert plants from proposed highway and development sites. I am only >interested in a few cacti for my yard. Thank you. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail From TRIFLINGONE@aol.com Tue Aug 5 10:44:37 2003 From: TRIFLINGONE@aol.com (TRIFLINGONE@aol.com) Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 06:44:37 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] I NEED SOME INFO Message-ID: <94.3b5f5b1d.2c60e495@aol.com> --part1_94.3b5f5b1d.2c60e495_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit HOW CAN I GET MY ST AUGUSTINE GRASS TO TAKE OVER THE BERMUDA THAT IS GROWN IN MY LAWN? --part1_94.3b5f5b1d.2c60e495_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable HOW CAN I GET MY ST AUGUSTINE GRASS TO TAKE O= VER THE BERMUDA THAT IS GROWN IN MY LAWN? --part1_94.3b5f5b1d.2c60e495_boundary-- From oldabelincoln@yahoo.com Tue Aug 5 08:10:54 2003 From: oldabelincoln@yahoo.com (Abe Lincoln) Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 01:10:54 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] How often do Mexican Palms drop leaves? Message-ID: <20030805081054.75057.qmail@web13502.mail.yahoo.com> --0-1182191620-1060071054=:74933 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii We live in Silicon Valley, and have what appears to be a Mexican Fan palm. We've lived here since 1990 and it was pretty tall then - somewhat above the height of our one story roof. Not tall for a Mexican palm, but not a young plant, either. This is the first year we did not have it pruned in winter. Last week (late July), about ten leaves dropped, apparently all at once. This week, 7 have dropped. Some leaves look green, some dead and brown. The tree has a thicker trunk than most pictures of Mexican Palms I've seen, and has a relatively smooth gray trunk (see http://home.ix.netcom.com/~pspiro/trunk%20detail.jpg ), so I wonder if perhaps I've misidentified it. The leaves look just like the pictures of Mexican Fan Palm. See http://home.ix.netcom.com/~pspiro/Palm%20tree.jpg Is this normal behavior for unpruned Mexican Palms? PS - Our weather here is an average microclimate for Northern California south of San Francisco - we are 2/3 of the way from San Francisco towards San Jose, and are in flatlands. Plenty of sun, but not quite as hot and dry as San Jose, or as cool and wet as San Francisco. We do nothing by way of fertilizer or irrigation. --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software --0-1182191620-1060071054=:74933 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

We live in Silicon Valley, and have what appears to be a Mexican Fan palm.
We've lived here since 1990 and it was pretty tall then - somewhat above the
height of our one story roof. Not tall for a Mexican palm, but not a young
plant, either.

This is the first year we did not have it pruned in winter. Last week (late
July), about ten leaves dropped, apparently all at once. This week, 7 have
dropped. Some leaves look green, some dead and brown.

The tree has a thicker trunk than most pictures of Mexican Palms I've seen,
and has a relatively smooth gray trunk (see
http://home.ix.netcom.com/~pspiro/trunk%20detail.jpg ), so I wonder if
perhaps I've misidentified it. The leaves look just like the pictures of
Mexican Fan Palm. See http://home.ix.netcom.com/~pspiro/Palm%20tree.jpg

Is this normal behavior for unpruned Mexican Palms?

PS - Our weather here is an average microclimate for Northern California
south of San Francisco - we are 2/3 of the way from San Francisco towards
San Jose, and are in flatlands. Plenty of sun, but not quite as hot and dry
as San Jose, or as cool and wet as San Francisco. We do nothing by way of
fertilizer or irrigation.

Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software --0-1182191620-1060071054=:74933-- From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net Tue Aug 5 23:17:48 2003 From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 16:17:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: END ROT REVERSAL References: Message-ID: <004601c35ba7$d4bc6b90$ae53530c@olin> Blossom-end rot of tomatoes is a physiological disorder caused by a lack of sufficient calcium in the blossom end of the fruit. It is usually most severe following extremes in soil moisture (either too dry or too wet). It does not necessarily mean the soil lacks calcium. It could mean the plant can't absorb the Ca, often due to high alkalinity or irregular irrigation practices. Before adding calcium, I would check the pH and if necessary, correct it and also make sure the plants are irrigated at regular intervals. And mulch the plants heavily to help keep the moisture content level. I suppose egg shells would break down eventually. But if you find that you really need to add Ca, I would consider using spraying with a solution of calcium nitrate or calcium chloride applied 2 to 3 times a week. These materials can be mixed with the spray that is used for control of foliar diseases. Agricultural gypsum could be another source of Ca. It contains about 18 percent calcium sulfate (CaSO4) and the Ca is readily available to plants. BTW, where are you gardening that you can grow and harvest beefsteak tomatoes in July and August. If it is the Phoenix area, I would like to know how you do it. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > I have an end rot situation. If I add calcium to the soil, how long will it > take to show improvement. > Note: this rot is only hampering roma plants, I have beefsteak behind and > they are unaffected??? > I have read that if you grind egg shells and soak them in water for 24 hours > then apply to the soil around the tomato plant that this is a good natural > manner of reversing the calcium deficiency. > Any comments would be very helpful. From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Tue Aug 5 22:17:33 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 15:17:33 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning a lime tree Message-ID: <006701c35b9f$72c756a0$9ca9db43@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0064_01C35B64.B18EF860 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Thomas, Citrus trees should only be pruned to remove dead wood, crossing = branches, sucker growth from below the graft and to remove wayward = branches. Pruning can expose the limbs and trunk to the sun and sunburn. Citrus trees do not typically produce fruit until they have been in the = ground four to five years. Is it possible that you have over fertilized = which is causing excessive growth which the tree is not able to handle. An excellent bulletin on citrus care titled CITRUS TREES IN THE HOME = GARDEN is available for $1.00 from U. of A., Maricopa County Cooperative = Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener =20 ------=_NextPart_000_0064_01C35B64.B18EF860 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Thomas,

Citrus trees should only be pruned to remove dead = wood,=20 crossing branches, sucker growth from below the graft and to remove = wayward=20 branches. Pruning can expose the limbs and trunk to the sun and=20 sunburn.

Citrus trees do not typically produce fruit = until they=20 have been in the ground four to five years. Is it possible that you have = over=20 fertilized which is causing excessive growth which the tree is not able = to=20 handle.

An excellent bulletin on citrus care titled CITRUS = TREES IN=20 THE HOME GARDEN is available for $1.00 from U. of A., Maricopa County=20 Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick

Master = Gardener

------=_NextPart_000_0064_01C35B64.B18EF860-- From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Tue Aug 5 21:53:25 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 14:53:25 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] How often do Mexican Palms drop leaves? Message-ID: <004f01c35b9c$00104d40$9ca9db43@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_004C_01C35B61.52AC8860 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable The photos that you have posted look like a Mexican Fan Palm, however = the California Fan Palm and the Mexican Palm do resemble one another = except that the California Palm does have a larger diameter trunk. Since your climate is vastly different from ours here in the Phoenix = area I would suggest that you contact your county Cooperative Extension = for their recommendation for the palm tree care. They will be familiar = with your area and climate. You will find them listed in your phone book = under county government and their service is free.=20 Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: Abe Lincoln To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Tuesday, August 05, 2003 6:02 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] How often do Mexican Palms drop leaves? We live in Silicon Valley, and have what appears to be a Mexican Fan = palm. We've lived here since 1990 and it was pretty tall then - somewhat = above the height of our one story roof. Not tall for a Mexican palm, but not a = young plant, either. This is the first year we did not have it pruned in winter. Last week = (late July), about ten leaves dropped, apparently all at once. This week, 7 = have dropped. Some leaves look green, some dead and brown. The tree has a thicker trunk than most pictures of Mexican Palms I've = seen, and has a relatively smooth gray trunk (see http://home.ix.netcom.com/~pspiro/trunk%20detail.jpg ), so I wonder if perhaps I've misidentified it. The leaves look just like the pictures = of Mexican Fan Palm. See = http://home.ix.netcom.com/~pspiro/Palm%20tree.jpg Is this normal behavior for unpruned Mexican Palms? PS - Our weather here is an average microclimate for Northern = California south of San Francisco - we are 2/3 of the way from San Francisco = towards San Jose, and are in flatlands. Plenty of sun, but not quite as hot = and dry as San Jose, or as cool and wet as San Francisco. We do nothing by = way of fertilizer or irrigation. -------------------------------------------------------------------------= ----- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software ------=_NextPart_000_004C_01C35B61.52AC8860 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

The photos that you have posted look like a Mexican = Fan Palm,=20 however the California Fan Palm and the Mexican Palm do resemble one = another=20 except that the California Palm does have a larger diameter = trunk.

Since your climate is vastly different from ours = here=20 in the Phoenix area I would suggest that you contact your = county=20 Cooperative Extension for their recommendation for the palm tree = care. They=20 will be familiar with your area and climate. You will find them = listed in=20 your phone book under county government and their service is=20 free.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick

Master Gardener

-----Original = Message-----
From:=20 Abe Lincoln <oldabelincoln@yahoo.com>
To: = arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu = <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Date:=20 Tuesday, August 05, 2003 6:02 AM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = How=20 often do Mexican Palms drop leaves?

We live in Silicon Valley, and have what appears to be a Mexican = Fan=20 palm.
We've lived here since 1990 and it was pretty tall then - = somewhat=20 above the
height of our one story roof. Not tall for a Mexican = palm, but=20 not a young
plant, either.

This is the first year we did not have it pruned in winter. = Last=20 week (late
July), about ten leaves dropped, apparently all at = once. =20 This week, 7 have
dropped. Some leaves look green, some dead = and=20 brown.

The tree has a thicker trunk than most pictures of Mexican Palms = I've=20 seen,
and has a relatively smooth gray trunk (see
http://home= .ix.netcom.com/~pspiro/trunk%20detail.jpg=20 ), so I wonder if
perhaps I've misidentified it. The leaves = look just=20 like the pictures of
Mexican Fan Palm. See http://home.ix= .netcom.com/~pspiro/Palm%20tree.jpg

Is this normal behavior for unpruned Mexican Palms?

PS - Our weather here is an average microclimate for Northern=20 California
south of San Francisco - we are 2/3 of the way from San=20 Francisco towards
San Jose, and are in flatlands. Plenty of sun, = but not=20 quite as hot and dry
as San Jose, or as cool and wet as San=20 Francisco. We do nothing by way of
fertilizer or=20 irrigation.

Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo!=20 SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design=20 software ------=_NextPart_000_004C_01C35B61.52AC8860-- From fly760me@yahoo.com Tue Aug 5 15:30:58 2003 From: fly760me@yahoo.com (fly760me@yahoo.com) Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 08:30:58 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200308051530.h75FUw5M018021@Ag.arizona.edu> I am needing to plant some fast growing shade trees in the Golden Corrider area which is around Casa Grande, what would you recommend. Thanks for your help. From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Tue Aug 5 21:39:05 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 14:39:05 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ridding a St Augustine lawn of bermuda grass Message-ID: <003a01c35b99$ff722360$9ca9db43@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0037_01C35B5F.51F77B20 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable The only way to get rid of the bermuda grass is to kill everything with = a herbicide such as Roundup and start over. If you do this you must make = sure that all the grass is killed by applying the herbicide at least = twice. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: TRIFLINGONE@aol.com To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Tuesday, August 05, 2003 6:02 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] I NEED SOME INFO HOW CAN I GET MY ST AUGUSTINE GRASS TO TAKE OVER THE BERMUDA THAT IS = GROWN IN MY LAWN?=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0037_01C35B5F.51F77B20 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

The only way to get rid of the bermuda grass is to = kill=20 everything with a herbicide such as Roundup and start over. If you = do this=20 you must make sure that all the grass is killed by applying the = herbicide at=20 least twice.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick

Master Gardener

-----Original = Message-----
From:=20 TRIFLINGONE@aol.com = <TRIFLINGONE@aol.com>
To:= Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= =20 <Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= >
Date:=20 Tuesday, August 05, 2003 6:02 AM
Subject: = [Arid_gardener] I NEED=20 SOME INFO

HOW CAN I GET MY = ST AUGUSTINE=20 GRASS TO TAKE OVER THE BERMUDA THAT IS GROWN IN MY LAWN?=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0037_01C35B5F.51F77B20-- From BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu Tue Aug 5 21:07:31 2003 From: BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2003 14:07:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] New Website at Glendale Public Library Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20030805134928.024a9018@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_22587699==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Wow! George Hull at Glendale Public Library has put together a fantastic website for their garden http://gecko.gc.maricopa.edu/glendalelibrary/ There are a wide variety of plant lists by climate needs (full sun, shade etc.); by benefits (hummingbird, butterfly, etc.). Take a virtual tour of the botanical garden on the grounds. See profiles of specific plants, and more. Check it out! Lucy ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert. "The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona." ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ --=====================_22587699==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Wow!

George Hull at Glendale Public Library has put together a fantastic website for their garden

http://gecko.gc.maricopa.edu/glendalelibrary/

There are a wide variety of plant lists by climate needs (full sun, shade etc.); by benefits (hummingbird, butterfly, etc.). Take a virtual tour of the botanical garden on the grounds. See profiles of specific plants, and more.

Check it out!

Lucy

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807

Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax: (602) 470-8092
email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/
http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens

Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program
To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert.

"The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona."
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

--=====================_22587699==_.ALT-- From BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu Tue Aug 5 20:41:38 2003 From: BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2003 13:41:38 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Two positions Opening in Tucson in Water Resource Management Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20030805133834.00b00ae0@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_22588099==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension has two year-to-year program coordinator positions to advertise: * one for a program designed to teach elected officials about water resources and non-point source pollution (NEMO), and * one for the new Master Watershed Steward Program. Both positions have funding for 3 years, are based in Tucson, and have state-wide responsibilities. If you know anyone who may be interested, please pass this along. >Here are two job openings that are listed on the UA jobs-on-line. > >http://www.hr.arizona.edu/26710xadxprox.htm > >http://www.hr.arizona.edu/26825xadxprox.htm ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert. "The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona." ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ --=====================_22588099==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension has two year-to-year program coordinator positions to advertise:

one for a program designed to teach elected officials about water resources and non-point source pollution (NEMO), and

one for the new Master Watershed Steward Program.

Both positions have funding for 3 years, are based in Tucson, and have state-wide responsibilities. If you know anyone who may be interested, please pass this along.

Here are two job openings that are listed on the UA jobs-on-line.

http://www.hr.arizona.edu/26710xadxprox.htm

http://www.hr.arizona.edu/26825xadxprox.htm

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807

Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax: (602) 470-8092
email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/
http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens

Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program
To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert.

"The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona."
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--=====================_22588099==_.ALT-- From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Tue Aug 5 21:31:23 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 14:31:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Shamel Ash with brown leaves Message-ID: <002801c35b98$ece827e0$9ca9db43@ibmbna6040> Cathy, We have just gone through the hottest July on record here in the Phoenix area. All of which means that landscape trees and plants needed additional water. My suggestion is to cut the irrigation interval from every two weeks to once a week and increase the amount of water applied so that the water will penetrate to nearly three feet. By increasing the amount of water applied you will help to flush down the salts that have accumulated in the root zone and prevent leaf burn. When the weather cools in the fall you should increase the interval again. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: lehicats@aol.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, August 04, 2003 4:47 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >12 months ago i planted a bare root shammel ash tree. it did well until about 4 or 5 weeks ago. now the leaves are turning brown and even the new growth at the top has leaves that are turning brown. i water it every 2 weeks until a soil probe goes down 2 feet. please help. i don't want the tree to die. > >cathy > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From bradinorent@webtv.com Tue Aug 5 20:36:47 2003 From: bradinorent@webtv.com (bradinorent@webtv.com) Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 13:36:47 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200308052036.h75Kal5M019267@Ag.arizona.edu> We have a great garden this year with alot of watermelons and cantaloup. I picked a watermelon before it was fully ripe and cut it open. Is there anyway of saving it? Can I put it back outside in a bag etc? Or do I need to just toss it? Thanks Brad From dearing54@msn.com Tue Aug 5 17:04:54 2003 From: dearing54@msn.com (JOHN DEARING) Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2003 10:04:54 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mowing Bermuda grass Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20030805100423.051a1df8@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_12739638==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Is it recommended to let grass clippings remain on a Bermuda grass lawn if a mulching lawn mower is used? Also, what is the recommended mowing height for Bermuda lawns? Thanks for your your help! Barb Dearing "Barb DEARING" ---------- Protect your PC - Click here for McAfee.com VirusScan Online --=====================_12739638==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Is it recommended to let grass clippings remain on a Bermuda grass lawn if a mulching lawn mower is used? Also, what is the recommended mowing height for Bermuda lawns?

Thanks for your your help!

Barb Dearing
"Barb DEARING" <dearing54@msn.com>

Protect your PC - Click here for McAfee.com VirusScan Online --=====================_12739638==_.ALT-- From jchapman166@cox.net Wed Aug 6 00:58:37 2003 From: jchapman166@cox.net (John Chapman) Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 17:58:37 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200308051530.h75FUw5M018021@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: About the fastest shade trees I'm aware of is the Sissoo, also known as Dalbergia Rosewood. I've seen them go from a 15 gal seedling to 30' X 30' in about 6 years. They are used as parking lot trees frequently and many of them are planted along the relandscaped Superstition Freeway. They are really popular right now and the demand exceeds the supply so expect to buy a one gallon tree in a 15 gallon container with a 15 gallon price tag, but a great shade tree. John Chapman -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu] On Behalf Of fly760me@yahoo.com Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2003 8:31 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am needing to plant some fast growing shade trees in the Golden Corrider area which is around Casa Grande, what would you recommend. Thanks for your help. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net Wed Aug 6 04:11:27 2003 From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 21:11:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] When are Melons Ripe? References: <200308052036.h75Kal5M019267@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <003101c35bd0$d605b7d0$0657530c@olin> ----- Original Message ----- From: > We have a great garden this year with alot of watermelons and cantaloup. I picked a watermelon before it was fully ripe and cut it open. Is there anyway of saving it? Can I put it back outside in a bag etc? Or do I need to just toss it? Thanks Brad Toss it! Put it on the compost pile. Melons do not ripen off the vine. Following is an article I wrote recently on how to tell if melons are ripe. Not everybody agrees. Hope you find it helpful. Good luck. Olin Miller When Are Melons Ripe? The following discussion is limited to the three groups of melons that are commonly grown in home gardens. True cantaloupes, "Cucumis melo cantaloupensis", are seldom, if ever, grown here although we occasionally see examples in seed catalogs that claim to trace their ancestry back to c. m. cantaloupensis. 1. Muskmelon, "Cucumis melo reticulatus" � Usually called acantaloupe, this melon has a netted rind and a sweet musky aroma. The rind may also be ribbed. Flesh color is usually orange but may vary from orange to green depending on the variety. It is the most common melon grown in home gardens and is also the easiest melon to test accurately for ripeness. On most varieties, the rind color may turn from tan or green to a pale yellow. If it is ripe, it will detach or �slip� from the vine when only a little pressure is applied by just rolling it on the ground. If it detaches when just slightly touched, it is probably overripe and mushy. Spring-planted muskmelons ripen rapidly in the hot summer days and should be tested frequently, perhaps daily. 2. Honeydew, Casaba, Crenshaw, "Cucumis melo Inodorus", Also called �winter melons� � There are others in this group but the three mentioned are the most commonly grown. The time to harvest (three to four months) makes them more susceptible to diseases and wilts because of the longer exposure time. Honeydews have smooth white rinds and (usually) green, off-white or pale orange flesh. This has been the most difficult one for me to predict ripeness and, judging from those we have purchased from supermarkets, the melon pickers have the same problem. Ripe melons need to be cut from the vine. Some ripeness indicators are: the leaf where the melon attaches to the vine begins to turn yellow; the rind color changes to a light gold or white color, and the blossom end is soft when a little pressure is applied. My most common error gas been to harvest too early. Casabas have ribbed yellow rinds, green flesh, and are usually larger than muskmelons or honeydews. Tests for ripeness are the same as for honeydews. I have no experience with Crenshaw melons but would expect the tests to be similar. 3. Watermelon, "Citrullus lanatus", - The usual indicator of ripeness is when the curlicue tendril on the vine opposite the stem of the melon and the other tendrils from the melon back to the base of the vine start to die back. The ground spot on the melon also changes from off-white to yellow. Finally, for those of us who have had lots of practice, as farm boys in the 1940s, tapping the melon sharply with a knuckle and listening for the �right� sound is the best indicator. There should be a crisp, hollow sound. To practice this without sacrificing too many melons, begin to tap the melon every day or so before the tendrils turn brown and listen for a change in the sound. In cooler climates, removing a plug and reinserting it if the melon is not ripe may be a good way to test for ripeness but is not recommended in our hot summer climate. The opened area will begin to rot almost immediately and ants will find the plugged spot in a day or two. From ranless@cox.net Wed Aug 6 03:00:06 2003 From: ranless@cox.net (ranless@cox.net) Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 20:00:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200308060300.h763065M017271@Ag.arizona.edu> howdy I bought a new house and can't seem to get anyhing to grow well in a certain area, I bought a soil test kit and it said ph was 8.0 ,nitrogen was very low ,phospherous very high and potash very low .the tomato plants start and then die and the cukes are bitter what should i do? thanks From sjm@fortislandcare.com Wed Aug 6 17:37:51 2003 From: sjm@fortislandcare.com (sjm@fortislandcare.com) Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2003 10:37:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200308061737.h76Hbpce025357@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a property in Ahwatukee that has many sumac trees and most have either had their canopies become very thin and many others are dying back systematically. Other properties in the area are having similar challenges with the sumacs. all my trees are in grass and dont have much weed eater damage. Is there something else going around? I have another client that would like a second opinion on an olive tree issue. We sprayed them for olive control with Maintain. They are affected with Verticillum Wilt now and they think I may have something to do with it. I told them that the disease will be worsened by the spray, but will not cause it. They think I may be skating responsibiltiy. Could I get someone there to write a letter or call them? Thanks, Steve 602.435.5474 From prudence0@hotmail.com Wed Aug 6 16:52:18 2003 From: prudence0@hotmail.com (prudence0@hotmail.com) Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2003 09:52:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200308061652.h76GqIce016115@Ag.arizona.edu> I've planted a variety of tomatoes and peppers. The tomatoes are very small and hard. There are few peppers and they are small and thin walled (not very meaty. I use a balanced fertilizer and I think I water them enough. They are in a raised bed under a shade cloth. What am I doing wrong? From watsontl@mindspring.com Thu Aug 7 01:33:46 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (watsontl@mindspring.com) Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2003 18:33:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Can't Grow Vegetables Message-ID: <3024447.1060207708396.JavaMail.nobody@wamui02.slb.atl.earthlink.net> Sounds like you have perfectly ordinary Arizona soil. If you have not done so already, you need to add a lot of organic material (manure, mulch, compost, etc.) And you will need to add it on a more or less annual basis. Soil sulfur will help bring the pH down a bit (but don't expect miracles!) and will provide an important nutrient to the soil, one plants must have in order to set fruit normally. A good, general purpose fertilizer would handle the other matters uncovered by the test. The cukes are bitter because of a chemical they produce in response to stress. As for the tomatoes, that could have been so many things (especially if no organic matter was dug in at planting time) that it would be hard to say what got them. Try this link for more detail on how to garden in our climate. http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/ Tom -------Original Message------- From: ranless@cox.net Sent: 08/05/03 08:00 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > howdy I bought a new house and can't seem to get anyhing to grow well in a certain area, I bought a soil test kit and it said ph was 8.0 ,nitrogen was very low ,phospherous very high and potash very low .the tomato plants start and then die and the cukes are bitter what should i do? thanks _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Wed Aug 6 23:36:09 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2003 16:36:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mowing bermuda grass Message-ID: <005301c35c73$849bbfe0$be2c0a3f@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0050_01C35C38.D717EFE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Barb, Leaving the grass clippings on the lawn when cut with a mulching mower = will benefit the the grass first as a mulch and later as a fertilizer = when the clippings break down. The height that you cut your bermuda grass will depend on the type of = bermuda that you have. If the grass is common bermuda, Midiron, or Santa = Ana it can be cut at 2.5 inches down to 2 inches for low maintenance or = for high maintenance where you would have to cut the grass more than = once a week from 1 3/8 down to 1 inch. If your grass is Tifgreen then it should be cut down to 1/4 or 3/8 inch = and a reel mower must be used. With this grass you would have to cut = nearly every day. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener =20 -----Original Message----- From: JOHN DEARING (by way of Lucy Bradley ) = To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Tuesday, August 05, 2003 5:01 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mowing Bermuda grass Is it recommended to let grass clippings remain on a Bermuda grass = lawn if a mulching lawn mower is used? Also, what is the recommended = mowing height for Bermuda lawns? =20 Thanks for your your help! =20 Barb Dearing "Barb DEARING" -------------------------------------------------------------------------= ----- Protect your PC - Click here for McAfee.com VirusScan Online=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0050_01C35C38.D717EFE0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Barb,

Leaving the grass clippings on the lawn when cut = with a=20 mulching mower will benefit the the grass first as a mulch and = later as a=20 fertilizer when the clippings break down.

The height that you cut your bermuda grass will = depend on=20 the type of bermuda that you have. If the grass is common bermuda, = Midiron, or=20 Santa Ana it can be cut at 2.5 inches down to 2 inches for low = maintenance=20 or for high maintenance where you would have to cut the grass more than = once a=20 week from 1 3/8 down to 1 inch.

If your grass is Tifgreen then it should be cut down = to 1/4 or=20 3/8 inch and a reel mower must be used. With this grass you would have = to cut=20 nearly every day.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick

Master Gardener

-----Original = Message-----
From:=20 JOHN DEARING (by way of Lucy Bradley <BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu>) = <dearing54@msn.com>
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu = <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Date:=20 Tuesday, August 05, 2003 5:01 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Mowing=20 Bermuda grass

Is=20 it recommended to let grass clippings remain on a Bermuda grass lawn = if a=20 mulching lawn mower is used? Also, what is the recommended mowing = height for=20 Bermuda lawns?

Thanks for your your = help!

Barb=20 Dearing
"Barb DEARING" <dearing54@msn.com>

Protect your PC - Click here=20 for McAfee.com VirusScan Online ------=_NextPart_000_0050_01C35C38.D717EFE0-- From watsontl@mindspring.com Thu Aug 7 01:24:20 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (watsontl@mindspring.com) Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2003 18:24:20 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Small, Hard Tomatoes Message-ID: <6291518.1060207142715.JavaMail.nobody@wamui02.slb.atl.earthlink.net> There are so many sorts of stress that can cause problems of this sort that it's hard to know where to start. There are varieties that just do not yeild well in our climate, for starters. Which varieties did you plant? Mineral deficiencies could account for such troubles. What kind of fertilizer did you use? Did you amend the soil with organic material? "Balanced" fertilizers almost never address so-called micronutrients effectively, so you could be short on something like magnesium or sulfur, both of which are easily addressed. Disease could be the trouble: does the foliage look odd at all (yellowing leaves, curling, spotts or color breaks)? Watering could be the problem: how long and how often do you water them? The cause could be related to any of the above (and I might still have missed something). Give us some more details and someone might be able to pin it down. Tom -------Original Message------- From: prudence0@hotmail.com Sent: 08/06/03 09:52 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > I've planted a variety of tomatoes and peppers. The tomatoes are very small and hard. There are few peppers and they are small and thin walled (not very meaty. I use a balanced fertilizer and I think I water them enough. They are in a raised bed under a shade cloth. What am I doing wrong? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net Wed Aug 6 21:06:22 2003 From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2003 14:06:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tomato & Pepper Question References: <200308061652.h76GqIce016115@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <001301c35c5e$b092d580$5b53530c@olin> If you are in the Phoenix area, growth of most plants and their fruit shuts down when daytime temps get into the 100s and morning lows are in the 80s. If you can keep them alive through the summer, they will come back with new growth in September. Hot peppers come back pretty strong but sweet peppers and tomatoes do not seem to fare as well. ----- Original Message ----- From: > I've planted a variety of tomatoes and peppers. The tomatoes are very small and hard. There are few peppers and they are small and thin walled (not very meaty. I use a balanced fertilizer and I think I water them enough. They are in a raised bed under a shade cloth. What am I doing wrong? From BarrPat@aol.com Thu Aug 7 18:41:06 2003 From: BarrPat@aol.com (BarrPat@aol.com) Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2003 14:41:06 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Toad repellents Message-ID: <5f.3d61a6c5.2c63f742@aol.com> --part1_5f.3d61a6c5.2c63f742_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Are there any chemicals, or common household substances, that can be used to repell toads and keep them out of patio areas? BarrPat@aol.com --part1_5f.3d61a6c5.2c63f742_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Are there any chemicals, or common household substance= s, that can be used to repell toads and keep them out of patio areas?

BarrPat@aol.com --part1_5f.3d61a6c5.2c63f742_boundary-- From BarrPat@aol.com Thu Aug 7 18:40:13 2003 From: BarrPat@aol.com (BarrPat@aol.com) Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2003 11:40:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200308071840.h77IeDce023721@Ag.arizona.edu> Are there any chemicals, or common substances, that can be used to repell toads and keep them out of patio areas? From skkyle2948@comcast.net Thu Aug 7 14:45:44 2003 From: skkyle2948@comcast.net (skkyle2948@comcast.net) Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2003 07:45:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200308071445.h77Ejice009306@Ag.arizona.edu> My husband and I have read about using jojoba beans as coffee. I have done some research and cannot find any reason why this would not be a good idea. My neighbor says that it isn't healthy for humans to eat jojoba beans. What is the truth? Thank you very much From gwright@Ag.arizona.edu Thu Aug 7 14:57:09 2003 From: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu (Glenn C. Wright) Date: Thu, 07 Aug 2003 07:57:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: citrus tree care Message-ID: <5.1.1.6.2.20030807075654.027a1ef0@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_500452890==.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed >Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2003 23:37:08 -0700 >From: "Anne" >To: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: citrus tree care >X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2600.0000 > >I was wondering if you could help with some information. Our house (in >Phoenix) is in an orchard of grapefruit and tangerine trees. Big limbs on >our citrus trees are starting to die, despite consistent care over the >years. We haven't fertilized yet this year, and I was wondering what the >best time of year is, and the best method. They get regular >irrigation. Any suggestions? Thank you so much. Beth Gerson (please >reply to pbgerson@hotmail.com) Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D. Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist University of Arizona - Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center 2186 W. County 15th Street Somerton, AZ 85350 Phone: 928-726-0458 FAX: 928-726-1363 e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu --=====================_500452890==.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2003 23:37:08 -0700
From: "Anne" <durkinee@qwest.net>
To: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: citrus tree care
X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2600.0000

I was wondering if you could help with some information. Our house (in Phoenix) is in an orchard of grapefruit and tangerine trees. Big limbs on our citrus trees are starting to die, despite consistent care over the years. We haven't fertilized yet this year, and I was wondering what the best time of year is, and the best method. They get regular irrigation. Any suggestions? Thank you so much. Beth Gerson (please reply to pbgerson@hotmail.com)

My husband and I have r= ead about using jojoba beans as coffee. I have done some research and=20= cannot find any reason why this would not be a good idea.
My neighbor says that it isn't healthy for humans to eat jojoba beans. = What is the truth?

--part1_170.2251968d.2c640318_boundary-- From LevineMarc@cox.net Thu Aug 7 21:20:25 2003 From: LevineMarc@cox.net (LevineMarc) Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2003 14:20:25 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question: Are you familiar with "Alfalfa Tea", and are there any benefits to this concoction? Message-ID: <001301c35d29$b8139800$7000a8c0@Marc> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01C35CEF.0B8C2960 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Rose growers swear that this stuff generates "basal breaks" and new = growth, not only in their roses, but other plants as well. The "tea" recipe calls for natural Alfalfa pellets (without the molasses = and other additives) at a rate of 1 cup per 1 gallon of water put into a = trash can for example. Cover mixture and stir daily. After a week, = you've got broken down alfalfa, and a liquid that's supposed to cause a = "chemical reaction" that initiates significant new growth. Any truth to this? ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01C35CEF.0B8C2960 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Rose growers swear that this stuff=20 generates "basal breaks" and new growth, not only in their = roses, but=20 other plants as well.

The "tea" recipe calls for natural = Alfalfa pellets=20 (without the molasses and other additives) at a rate of 1 cup per 1 = gallon of=20 water put into a trash can for example. Cover mixture = and stir=20 daily. After a week, you've got broken down alfalfa, and a liquid = that's=20 supposed to cause a "chemical reaction" that initiates significant new=20 growth.

Any truth to this?

------=_NextPart_000_0010_01C35CEF.0B8C2960-- From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Thu Aug 7 22:20:03 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2003 15:20:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus tree care Message-ID: <004401c35d32$0dfdf140$56a9db43@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0041_01C35CF7.6047C6A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Beth, Citrus trees should be fertilized three times a year in February, April, = and July applying a total of one pound of actual nitrogen. If you are = using a 21/0/0 fertilizer which is 21 % nitrogen then you would apply 5 = pounds of fertilizer with 50 % applied in February and the balance = equally in the other two months.=20 If your trees are over 35 years old then old age may be starting to take = its toll. If the bark on the upper trunk and branches is cracking and gumming, the = leaves yellowing and the tree looking unhealthy Rio Grande Gummosis = could be the problem. Unfortunately there is not any treatment = available. The best thing you can do for your trees is to make sure that the trees = are fertilized and irrigated properly. An excellent bulletin on citrus tree care titled CITRUS TREES IN THE = HOME GARDEN is available for $1.00 from U. of A., Maricopa County = Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0041_01C35CF7.6047C6A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Beth,

Citrus trees should be fertilized three times a = year in=20 February, April, and July applying a total of one pound of actual = nitrogen. If=20 you are using a 21/0/0 fertilizer which is 21 % nitrogen then you would = apply 5=20 pounds of fertilizer with 50 % applied in February and the balance = equally in=20 the other two months.

If your trees are over 35 years old then old age may = be=20 starting to take its toll.

If the bark on the upper trunk and branches is = cracking and=20 gumming, the leaves yellowing and the tree looking unhealthy Rio Grande = Gummosis=20 could be the problem. Unfortunately there is not any treatment=20 available.

The best thing you can do for your trees is to make = sure that=20 the trees are fertilized and irrigated properly.

An excellent bulletin on citrus tree care titled = CITRUS TREES=20 IN THE HOME GARDEN is available for $1.00 from U. of A., Maricopa County = Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick

Master Gardener

------=_NextPart_000_0041_01C35CF7.6047C6A0-- From BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu Sat Aug 9 00:31:49 2003 From: BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Fri, 08 Aug 2003 17:31:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Great Gardening Courses at Community colleges Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20030808172959.0435c930@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_11191272==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Greetings, Maricopa Community Colleges in Glendale and Mesa each have exciting horticulture classes. Check out their websites Agribusiness http://schedule.gc.maricopa.edu/?20036&AGB http://schedule.gc.maricopa.edu/?20036&AGS http://schedule.gc.maricopa.edu/?20036&AGL http://www.mc.maricopa.edu/dept/d58/ags/courses/ regards, Lucy Bradley ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert. "The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona." ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ --=====================_11191272==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Greetings,

Maricopa Community Colleges in Glendale and Mesa each have exciting horticulture classes. Check out their websites

Agribusiness
http://schedule.gc.maricopa.edu/?20036&AGB
http://schedule.gc.maricopa.edu/?20036&AGS
http://schedule.gc.maricopa.edu/?20036&AGL

http://www.mc.maricopa.edu/dept/d58/ags/courses/

regards,

Lucy Bradley

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807

Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax: (602) 470-8092
email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/
http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens

Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program
To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert.

"The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona."
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

--=====================_11191272==_.ALT-- From jvrich@earthlink.net Fri Aug 8 19:05:47 2003 From: jvrich@earthlink.net (jvrich@earthlink.net) Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2003 12:05:47 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200308081905.h78J5lce016838@Ag.arizona.edu> My daughter's charter school has erected a greenhouse and plans to have greenhouse related curriculum as part of the science classes for kids 8th grade and younger. Do you know other schools that do this here? What is appropriate for doing in a greenhouse without air conditioning or swamp cooling at this time of the year? Any help would be appreciated. Jackie From jamie123@bigfoot.com Fri Aug 8 04:54:55 2003 From: jamie123@bigfoot.com (Jamie the Gardner) Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2003 21:54:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grafting Citrus In-Reply-To: <3CD60AFC.A539807C@qwest.net> Message-ID: When would be a good time to take citrus budsticks? I live in Phoenix. Thanks. From watsontl@mindspring.com Fri Aug 8 03:34:06 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2003 20:34:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question: Alfalfa Tea References: <001301c35d29$b8139800$7000a8c0@Marc> Message-ID: <005201c35d5d$ece1ab60$0609b83f@S0029317241> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_004F_01C35D23.3F8D28C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable http://www.nurserysite.com/clubs/peninsular/tea.html The above link goes to a rose club website that covers this sort of = fertilizer in as close to a no-nonsense way as I could find. There's = nothing magical here, no special chemical reactions, just a natural = source of nitrgen. The tea is basically fermented alfalfa, and the = microbes doing the deed render the nitrogen content of the alfalfa into = a more plant friendly form. (Alfalfa is a legume, a group of plants = capable of 'fixing' their own nitrogen from the air.) That nitrogen is = what stimulates new growth. I've never used this technique in my own garden, but understand it is = legitimate. It is also said to stink to high heaven while brewing! Tom ----- Original Message -----=20 From: LevineMarc=20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2003 2:20 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question: Are you familiar with "Alfalfa = Tea", and are there any benefits to this concoction? Rose growers swear that this stuff generates "basal breaks" and new = growth, not only in their roses, but other plants as well. The "tea" recipe calls for natural Alfalfa pellets (without the = molasses and other additives) at a rate of 1 cup per 1 gallon of water = put into a trash can for example. Cover mixture and stir daily. After = a week, you've got broken down alfalfa, and a liquid that's supposed to = cause a "chemical reaction" that initiates significant new growth. Any truth to this? ------=_NextPart_000_004F_01C35D23.3F8D28C0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

http://www.= nurserysite.com/clubs/peninsular/tea.html

The above link goes to a rose club = website that=20 covers this sort of fertilizer in as close to a no-nonsense way as I = could=20 find. There's nothing magical here, no special chemical = reactions,=20 just a natural source of nitrgen. The tea is basically = fermented=20 alfalfa, and the microbes doing the deed render the nitrogen content of = the=20 alfalfa into a more plant friendly form. (Alfalfa is a = legume, a=20 group of plants capable of 'fixing' their own nitrogen from the=20 air.) That nitrogen is what stimulates new = growth.

I've never used this technique in my = own garden,=20 but understand it is legitimate. It is also said to stink to = high=20 heaven while brewing!

Tom

----- Original Message -----
From:=20 LevineMarc=20
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= =20

Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2003 = 2:20=20 PM

Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Question: Are=20 you familiar with "Alfalfa Tea", and are there any benefits to this=20 concoction?

Rose growers swear that this stuff=20 generates "basal breaks" and new growth, not only in their = roses,=20 but other plants as well.

The "tea" recipe calls for natural = Alfalfa=20 pellets (without the molasses and other additives) at a rate of 1 cup = per 1=20 gallon of water put into a trash can for example. Cover mixture=20 and stir daily. After a week, you've got broken down = alfalfa, and a=20 liquid that's supposed to cause a "chemical reaction" that initiates=20 significant new growth.

Any truth to this?

------=_NextPart_000_004F_01C35D23.3F8D28C0-- From MargieP@StPatricksScottsdale.org Fri Aug 8 19:20:30 2003 From: MargieP@StPatricksScottsdale.org (MargieP@StPatricksScottsdale.org) Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2003 12:20:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200308081920.h78JKUce019114@Ag.arizona.edu> I'm moving into a house that has a patio facing north. I know that ivy grows well in this location. May I have suggestions for small, flowering plants and vegetables that I can keep in planters? Would a honeysuckle survive in a shady area? From watsontl@mindspring.com Fri Aug 8 03:24:52 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2003 20:24:52 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Clinging Weed References: <200308070535.h775ZNce024192@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <004501c35d5c$a2750be0$0609b83f@S0029317241> http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/WEEDS/field_bindweed.html Do the pictures on the above link look like the plant in question? Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2003 10:35 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I have a green clinging plant that wraps itself around everything in my flower garden. It has a white poppy like blossom. It is getting more prolific each year. How can I get rid of it? If I don't will it kill my roses, lantana, honeysuckle, etc? > > Thx. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From waldal42@msn.com Fri Aug 8 02:16:55 2003 From: waldal42@msn.com (waldal42@msn.com) Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2003 19:16:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200308080216.h782Gtce005300@Ag.arizona.edu> I have noticed some very large and thick meaty green peppers in the grocery stores and I would like to grow them here in AZ. Can I take the seeds from one of them and grow the same size and thick meaty green peppers in my own garden in Chandler, AZ? From Orac63@aol.com Fri Aug 8 02:56:45 2003 From: Orac63@aol.com (Orac63@aol.com) Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2003 22:56:45 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Care for a Night Blooming Cereus Message-ID: <14.16d32e0b.2c646b6d@aol.com> --part1_14.16d32e0b.2c646b6d_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have these long spikes growing out of the leaf, do I trim these back to the leaf??? Thanks for your time. Omaha --part1_14.16d32e0b.2c646b6d_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have these long spikes growing out of the leaf, do I= trim these back to the leaf??? Thanks for your time. Omaha --part1_14.16d32e0b.2c646b6d_boundary-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Aug 7 23:21:45 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 07 Aug 2003 23:21:45 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] field bindweed Message-ID: The plant you are describing might be field bindweed. To see a picture, go to: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/WEEDS/field_bindweed.html Some control is possible using Roundup - be careful not to get ANY Roundup on plants you want --- and a pre-emergent in areas where you are not growing plants from seed. For complete information on getting rid of bindwee, go to: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7462.html Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: babycakes1942@yahoo.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2003 22:35:23 -0700 (MST) > >I have a green clinging plant that wraps itself around everything in my >flower garden. It has a white poppy like blossom. It is getting more >prolific each year. How can I get rid of it? If I don't will it kill my >roses, lantana, honeysuckle, etc? > >Thx. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 From phx1@cox.net Fri Aug 8 00:39:55 2003 From: phx1@cox.net (Shar Moore) Date: Thu, 07 Aug 2003 17:39:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Getting rid of underground bees Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20030807173919.01f4ce70@ag.arizona.edu> We planted a snail plant last year with the hope that it would cover our latice work patio to provide shade from the west sun. After some work, the plant took hold and seems to be growing fine. However, now we find we have a yard full of underground bees. I'm from MO and we used to call them 'sweat bees'. They don't usually sting, but they can. The issue is there are so many of them. We have animals that like to roll in the yard and I don't feel comfortable on the patio with all the bees around. My questions are - 1) What is the most effective method of getting rid of the bees? 2) Will the snail plant live without the bees? 4) Should we remove the snail plant? 5) If we remove the snail plant, what would you recommend we use to cover the patio and provide shade? It is on the south side of the house, gets sun all day with strong west exposure. On a different subject - I like to use plants to help manage the heating and cooling of my house. It faces north/south; is 50 years old and no one has ever planted anything in the yard to help shade the house. Since tree