From FWHapLayher@msn.com Mon Dec 1 03:05:44 2003 From: FWHapLayher@msn.com (Francis W. Layher) Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 20:05:44 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] prickly pear cactus malady Message-ID: ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C3B77D.5668A740 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable EVERY FALL/WINTER OUR CACTI GET A WHITE COTTON LIKE MATERIAL THAT SEEMS T= O PULL THE COLOR OUT OF THE CACTI PADS. WHEN THE COTTON LIKE MATERIAL IS= TORN APART THERE ARE SEVERAL SMALL SACS OF VERY RED LIQUID INSIDE. WHAT IS THE CAUSE OF THIS? I USUALLY TAKE THIS MATERIAL OFF THE PADS BY = USING A WATER HOSE AND NOZZLE. DO YOU HAVE A BETTER WAY? ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C3B77D.5668A740 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

EVERY FALL/WIN= TER OUR CACTI GET A WHITE COTTON LIKE MATERIAL THAT SEEMS TO PULL THE COL= OR OUT OF THE CACTI PADS. WHEN THE COTTON LIKE MATERIAL IS TORN APA= RT THERE ARE SEVERAL SMALL SACS OF VERY RED LIQUID INSIDE.

&nb= sp;

WHAT IS THE CAUSE OF THIS? I USUALLY TAKE THIS MATER= IAL OFF THE PADS BY USING A WATER HOSE AND NOZZLE. DO YOU HAV= E A BETTER WAY?

------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C3B77D.5668A740-- From gardenguru" Message-ID: <016201c3b81b$b8e8d400$5dfbcbd8@ibm22761658747> Here is a web site that will assist you with your hibiscus. It has a good section regarding fertilizing them http://www.trop-hibiscus.com/index.html Hope this helps Greg - master gardener ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, November 29, 2003 7:55 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I planted a hibiscus in June and it was in bloom. After those blooms were gone it never bloomed again. It is growing like crazy but no blooms. Is there a time of year when they bloom or is there something wrong? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Dec 1 14:26:17 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 01 Dec 2003 14:26:17 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] prickly pear cactus malady Message-ID: It sounds like you have cochineal scale (a small red bug that feeds on prickly pear) -- it is common here. Spraying with a strong spray of water and/or spraying with a soap water solution will get rid of them. You must be thorough - spray until you can see the little red insect washed away -- and persistent (respray every few days). It does take a little time, but this treatment will get rid of cochineal scale. You can cut out severely infested pads by pruning at the joint. (soap solution: a teaspoon of fragrance-free hand dishwashing liquid to a gallon of water) See John Begeman's article on this at http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening/news/azdailystar/fuzz_prickly_pear.html The red beneath the cottony material is the insect; it was used by the Native Americans to make red dye. linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Francis W. Layher" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] prickly pear cactus malady >Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 20:05:44 -0700 > >EVERY FALL/WINTER OUR CACTI GET A WHITE COTTON LIKE MATERIAL THAT SEEMS TO >PULL THE COLOR OUT OF THE CACTI PADS. WHEN THE COTTON LIKE MATERIAL IS >TORN APART THERE ARE SEVERAL SMALL SACS OF VERY RED LIQUID INSIDE. > >WHAT IS THE CAUSE OF THIS? I USUALLY TAKE THIS MATERIAL OFF THE PADS BY >USING A WATER HOSE AND NOZZLE. DO YOU HAVE A BETTER WAY? _________________________________________________________________ Set yourself up for fun at home! Get tips on home entertainment equipment, video game reviews, and more here. http://special.msn.com/home/homeent.armx From plantperson@prodigy.net Mon Dec 1 04:34:34 2003 From: plantperson@prodigy.net (plantperson) Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 21:34:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] prickly pear cactus malady References: Message-ID: <001601c3b7c4$6d433560$07114bab@z3j2h2> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C3B789.BF83E300 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable That is actually an insect called cochaneal scale insect. The red = liquid is coming from the insect. The Indians used that color as a dye. = =20 You are using the best method to get rid of the pest. Hose it off = whenever it appears.=20 Pauline Marx, Maricopa County Master Gardener ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Francis W. Layher=20 To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Sunday, November 30, 2003 8:05 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] prickly pear cactus malady EVERY FALL/WINTER OUR CACTI GET A WHITE COTTON LIKE MATERIAL THAT = SEEMS TO PULL THE COLOR OUT OF THE CACTI PADS. WHEN THE COTTON LIKE = MATERIAL IS TORN APART THERE ARE SEVERAL SMALL SACS OF VERY RED LIQUID = INSIDE. WHAT IS THE CAUSE OF THIS? I USUALLY TAKE THIS MATERIAL OFF THE PADS = BY USING A WATER HOSE AND NOZZLE. DO YOU HAVE A BETTER WAY? ------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C3B789.BF83E300 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

That is actually an insect called cochaneal = scale insect.=20 The red liquid is coming from the insect. The Indians used = that=20 color as a dye.

You are using the best method to get rid of the=20 pest. Hose it off whenever it appears.

Pauline Marx, Maricopa County Master=20 Gardener

----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Francis W.=20 Layher
To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= =20

Sent: Sunday, November 30, 2003 = 8:05=20 PM

Subject: [Arid_gardener] = prickly pear=20 cactus malady

EVERY FALL/WINTER OUR CACTI GET A WHITE COTTON LIKE MATERIAL THAT = SEEMS=20 TO PULL THE COLOR OUT OF THE CACTI PADS. WHEN THE COTTON LIKE = MATERIAL=20 IS TORN APART THERE ARE SEVERAL SMALL SACS OF VERY RED LIQUID = INSIDE.

WHAT IS THE CAUSE OF THIS? I USUALLY TAKE THIS MATERIAL OFF = THE=20 PADS BY USING A WATER HOSE AND NOZZLE. DO YOU HAVE A = BETTER=20 WAY?

------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C3B789.BF83E300-- From myjeeptours@cox.net Mon Dec 1 16:12:32 2003 From: myjeeptours@cox.net (myjeeptours@cox.net) Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 09:12:32 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200312011612.hB1GCWY4006322@Ag.arizona.edu> Hi, i have been growing grapes in my yard now going on my fourth year they were thompson seedless which the first year of grapes were green now they are more of the red variety my questions are whats the best way to get rid of those pesky catipilers (were do they originate from and any info on them)what is the best nutients for a bigger yield of grapes. and if and can you make wine from them and do you have the steps to do so ? thank you Bea From joec@dlcresources.com Mon Dec 1 19:12:29 2003 From: joec@dlcresources.com (joec@dlcresources.com) Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 12:12:29 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200312011912.hB1JCTY4023315@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like to find info regarding hard pruning (when necessary)vs. shearing any sugestions or articles I could read Thanks Joe From egaytan@edd.ca.gov Mon Dec 1 16:41:19 2003 From: egaytan@edd.ca.gov (egaytan@edd.ca.gov) Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 09:41:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200312011641.hB1GfJY4013235@Ag.arizona.edu> What does the term "heavy seeding" mean when its refering to lettuce production. From joe@stuart.org Mon Dec 1 19:33:47 2003 From: joe@stuart.org (joe@stuart.org) Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 12:33:47 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200312011933.hB1JXlY4028318@Ag.arizona.edu> I have an Australian Willow that appears to be infected with verticillium wilt. This condition, dying limbs and leaves, has been going on for at least two years. If this is verticillium wilt, should I just remove the tree? What trees would be resistant to this disease? Any soil treatment prior to replanting? Thanks in advance for your response. From Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com Mon Dec 1 20:44:29 2003 From: Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com (Zelhart Alan-rpcs30) Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 13:44:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B99307083B33A6@az33exm25.corp.mot.com> Can you tell us about your watering practices for this tree. How you water, how long you water, how often you water? Alan -- Chat with you later, Alan -- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ----- Alan Zelhart gizmoaz@cox.net Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- ***** This will shut down Windows, do you want to play another game ? -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu] On Behalf Of joe@stuart.org Sent: Monday, December 01, 2003 12:34 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have an Australian Willow that appears to be infected with verticillium wilt. This condition, dying limbs and leaves, has been going on for at least two years. If this is verticillium wilt, should I just remove the tree? What trees would be resistant to this disease? Any soil treatment prior to replanting? Thanks in advance for your response. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From strumdee@cruzio.com Mon Dec 1 21:30:23 2003 From: strumdee@cruzio.com (Stephen Sturm) Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 13:30:23 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] italian cypress Message-ID: <000801c3b852$556ad680$1662f93f@mpeywdzn> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C3B80F.45D7D9E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi Dear Gardener, I am going to plan 25 italian cypress trees in my garden, I live in = Santa Cruz of California, now it is winter time and often raining, do = you think it is a good time to plan now or wait till spring time? how = about the gopher problem? and also my husband wants to these trees can = create privacy of the house.do you think this is the right trees I am = going to chose because Italian Cypress tree grows quite slowly? chose = five-gallon-tree is enough? or would you give me some suggestions? Regards! Sandy strumdee@cruzio.com ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C3B80F.45D7D9E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hi Dear Gardener,

I am going to plan 25 italian cypress trees in my = garden, I=20 live in Santa Cruz of California, now it is winter time and often = raining, do=20 you think it is a good time to plan now or wait till spring time? how = about the=20 gopher problem? and also my husband wants to these trees can create = privacy of=20 the house.do you think this is the right trees I am going to chose = because=20 Italian Cypress tree grows quite slowly? chose five-gallon-tree is = enough? or=20 would you give me some suggestions?

Regards!

Sandy

strumdee@cruzio.com

<= /BODY> ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C3B80F.45D7D9E0-- From BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu Mon Dec 1 20:54:54 2003 From: BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Mon, 01 Dec 2003 13:54:54 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Maricopa County Fair Premium Book Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20031201135308.01f57aa0@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_15093793==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed I just got notification that the premium book for this year's County fair is on line. You can access it at www.maricopacountyfair.org. They have said that they will NOT mail one out to you unless you call and request one be mailed to you. If that is your wish, their phone number is 602-252-0717. The premium books are also available at most libraries for pick up, but they are trying to cut back on postage and printing if possible. I ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert. "The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona." ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ --=====================_15093793==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I just got notification that the premium book for this year's County fair is on line.

You can access it at www= .maricopacountyfair.org.

They have said that they will NOT mail one out to you unless you call and request one be mailed to you. If that is your wish, their phone number is 602-252-0717.

The premium books are also available at most libraries for pick up, but they are trying to cut back on postage and printing if=20 possible.

I

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807

Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax: (602) 470-8092
email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/
http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens

Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program
To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert.

"The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona."
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

--=====================_15093793==_.ALT-- From cappy@fastq.com Tue Dec 2 06:03:49 2003 From: cappy@fastq.com (cappy@fastq.com) Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 23:03:49 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200312020603.hB263nY4021113@Ag.arizona.edu> Hello and thanks for any suggestions. This is a quesion on composting. Something near and dear to my heart - known as the "compost queen" back home on the Oregon coast. Do a lot of volunteering in the schools sharing techniques and enthusiasm for backyard composting. We now live here in Surprise six months of the year. Just love learning about desert gardening. In Oregon, composting is so easy. Here it's a bit of a different story. Bought a handy dandy compost bin, and have begun my regular routine. Question? With the hard-packed soil here, do earthworms ever appear? Doing all the right things - I hope. Doesn't seem to be heating up, and no earthworms in sight. Started the bin off in mid October. I turn it and have added some soil to help it along. Cold and clammy. Stinky - really have to turn it and bury any veggie waste. Should I just be patient and hope some earthworms will come along, or do I need to purchase some red worms? Read that red worms don't like any soil mixed in. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much. Sincerely, Cappy (Capella) Tosetti Surprise, AZ 623 544-9150 cappy@fastq.com From micheledesigns@yahoo.com Tue Dec 2 00:27:42 2003 From: micheledesigns@yahoo.com (michele wronski) Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 16:27:42 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] rosa rugosa question Message-ID: <20031202002742.33360.qmail@web14106.mail.yahoo.com> --0-220989270-1070324862=:31939 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Dear Arid Gardener, Would you please tell me if Rugosa roses do well in our Scottsdale soil. I know the soil has a high salinity, and am wondering how that affects the rugosas. Before I order roses, I am considering having a soil test done. How can I have this done through the Maricopa cooperative extension? Sincerely, Michele Fillion email: micheledesigns@yahoo.com --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now --0-220989270-1070324862=:31939 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

Dear Arid Gardener,

Would you please tell me if Rugosa roses do well in our Scottsdale soil. I know the soil has a high salinity, and am wondering how that affects the rugosas.

Before I order roses, I am considering having a soil test done. How can I have this done through the Maricopa cooperative extension?

Sincerely, Michele Fillion

email: micheledesigns@yahoo.com

Do you Yahoo!?
Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now --0-220989270-1070324862=:31939-- From jamie123@bigfoot.com Tue Dec 2 04:40:46 2003 From: jamie123@bigfoot.com (Jamie the Gardner) Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 21:40:46 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Arid Gardener FAQ In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I've been a member of the Arid Gardner listserv for about two years now. I'd like to thank everyone for the interesting questions and informative answers. I've noticed certain questions come up over and over. Has there been thought given to a frequently asked questions (FAQ) posting? These are the questions I've noticed to frequently be asked. I'm sure others can think of more. I have a cactus with a white, cottony substance that drips a red substance underneath. What is this and how do I get rid of it? How should I prune my citrus trees? Why are my oranges/grapefruit/lemons splitting/falling off the tree? I have a tree/shrub/lawn with some type of disease/loosing its leaves. How do I treat it? By the way, I water once a day for 15 minutes. How often should I water my tree/shrub/grass/flowers? Can I eat the vegetables I grow near my Oleanders/mulch with Oleander leaves? I live in some place completely unlike Arizona. Can you help me with my gardening problems? I planted Ocotillo 3 months ago. They look dead. What did I do wrong? How do I stop my Olive tree from bearing fruit? What can I plant that rabbits/ground squirrels/peccaries/various other critters won't eat? From Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com Tue Dec 2 13:46:15 2003 From: Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com (Zelhart Alan-rpcs30) Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2003 06:46:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Arid Gardener FAQ Message-ID: <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B99307083B3411@az33exm25.corp.mot.com> I think it's a great idea, and I have been saving some of the most common questions and answers for just such a web page on my website. The problem is, there never seems to be enough time in one day ;) I have 2 weeks off during the Christmas holidays. I hope to get something together then. -- Chat with you later, Alan -- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ----- Alan Zelhart gizmoaz@cox.net Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- ***** Seen it all, done it all, can't remember most of it -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu] On Behalf Of Jamie the Gardner Sent: Monday, December 01, 2003 9:41 PM To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Arid Gardener FAQ I've been a member of the Arid Gardner listserv for about two years now. I'd like to thank everyone for the interesting questions and informative answers. I've noticed certain questions come up over and over. Has there been thought given to a frequently asked questions (FAQ) posting? These are the questions I've noticed to frequently be asked. I'm sure others can think of more. I have a cactus with a white, cottony substance that drips a red substance underneath. What is this and how do I get rid of it? How should I prune my citrus trees? Why are my oranges/grapefruit/lemons splitting/falling off the tree? I have a tree/shrub/lawn with some type of disease/loosing its leaves. How do I treat it? By the way, I water once a day for 15 minutes. How often should I water my tree/shrub/grass/flowers? Can I eat the vegetables I grow near my Oleanders/mulch with Oleander leaves? I live in some place completely unlike Arizona. Can you help me with my gardening problems? I planted Ocotillo 3 months ago. They look dead. What did I do wrong? How do I stop my Olive tree from bearing fruit? What can I plant that rabbits/ground squirrels/peccaries/various other critters won't eat? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Dec 2 13:42:14 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 02 Dec 2003 13:42:14 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] composting in the desert Message-ID: Welcome to Arizona! You are right, gardening here is different. We don't have native earthworms here, the soil is too dry, hot and devoid of organic matter. Ants fill part of this niche, turning and aerating the soil, but do very little composting. You can certainly buy earthworms and use them to compost; you will have to keep them cool. Friends keep the box indoors or heavily insulate a box outdoors; in summer, they put a block of ice on top to keep the temperatures in a tolerable range. I haven't tried this! The small red wrigglers seem to handle our heat the best. You can also compost using the natural heat of decomposition from microscopic soil organisms. The pile must be kept moist and turned regularly. You say it is stinky -- this may be caused by the wrong balance of nitrogen-carbon. This article by John Begeman contains details: http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening/news/azdailystar/composting.html Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: cappy@fastq.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 23:03:49 -0700 (MST) > >Hello and thanks for any suggestions. > >This is a quesion on composting. Something near and dear to my heart - >known as the "compost queen" back home on the Oregon coast. Do a lot of >volunteering in the schools sharing techniques and enthusiasm for backyard >composting. > >We now live here in Surprise six months of the year. Just love learning >about desert gardening. > >In Oregon, composting is so easy. Here it's a bit of a different story. >Bought a handy dandy compost bin, and have begun my regular routine. > >Question? With the hard-packed soil here, do earthworms ever appear? >Doing all the right things - I hope. Doesn't seem to be heating up, and no >earthworms in sight. Started the bin off in mid October. > >I turn it and have added some soil to help it along. Cold and clammy. >Stinky - really have to turn it and bury any veggie waste. > >Should I just be patient and hope some earthworms will come along, or do I >need to purchase some red worms? > >Read that red worms don't like any soil mixed in. > >Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much. > >Sincerely, > >Cappy (Capella) Tosetti >Surprise, AZ > >623 544-9150 > >cappy@fastq.com > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ >From the hottest toys to tips on keeping fit this winter, you�ll find a range of helpful holiday info here. http://special.msn.com/network/happyholidays.armx From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Dec 2 15:38:33 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 02 Dec 2003 15:38:33 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Arid Gardener FAQ Message-ID: I agree! I know there have been discussions in the past about creating an FAQ; I don't know the status now. The main gardening page, cals.arizona.edu/gardening, did set up FAQs and has lots on information. However, I don't think the information is gleaned from the archives of our arid gardener listserv. Perhaps Lucy Bradley could respond to the question and give us some tips on how to make an FAQ happen. Even if it is used primarily by those of us answering questions, it would be helpful. Now, I search the archives before answering most questions -- the archives are helpful (for awhile searches didn't seem to work correctly, but has improved recently). Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Jamie the Gardner" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Arid Gardener FAQ >Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 21:40:46 -0700 > >I've been a member of the Arid Gardner listserv for about two years now. >I'd like to thank everyone for the interesting questions and informative >answers. I've noticed certain questions come up over and over. Has there >been thought given to a frequently asked questions (FAQ) posting? These >are >the questions I've noticed to frequently be asked. I'm sure others can >think of more. > >I have a cactus with a white, cottony substance that drips a red substance >underneath. What is this and how do I get rid of it? > >How should I prune my citrus trees? > >Why are my oranges/grapefruit/lemons splitting/falling off the tree? > >I have a tree/shrub/lawn with some type of disease/loosing its leaves. How >do I treat it? By the way, I water once a day for 15 minutes. > >How often should I water my tree/shrub/grass/flowers? > >Can I eat the vegetables I grow near my Oleanders/mulch with Oleander >leaves? > >I live in some place completely unlike Arizona. Can you help me with my >gardening problems? > >I planted Ocotillo 3 months ago. They look dead. What did I do wrong? > >How do I stop my Olive tree from bearing fruit? > >What can I plant that rabbits/ground squirrels/peccaries/various other >critters won't eat? > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Share holiday photos without swamping your Inbox. Get MSN Extra Storage now! http://join.msn.com/?PAGE=features/es From Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com Tue Dec 2 13:50:05 2003 From: Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com (Zelhart Alan-rpcs30) Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2003 06:50:05 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] rosa rugosa question Message-ID: <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B99307083B3412@az33exm25.corp.mot.com> This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C3B8DB.30C1A8D4 Content-Type: text/plain Michele, I've never had much luck with the Rugosa roses. I have tried three of them, and there foliage always looked like -- well -- crap, by mid summer. I know for sure that they do not like having fertilizer applied via a sprayer on there foliage. That is when they look there very worst. Even thought I took precautions to spray very early in the morning before the sun came up, and to do a rinse off once the sun started coming up. I've shovel pruned the three rugosa's I tried. They were all in full sun. Perhaps they would have done better with afternoon shade. But there are so many more fine roses out there, I just decided not to fuss with them any more. -- Chat with you later, Alan -- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ----- Alan Zelhart gizmoaz@cox.net Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- ***** Multitasking: Reading in the bathroom ! -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu] On Behalf Of michele wronski Sent: Monday, December 01, 2003 5:28 PM To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] rosa rugosa question Dear Arid Gardener, Would you please tell me if Rugosa roses do well in our Scottsdale soil. I know the soil has a high salinity, and am wondering how that affects the rugosas. Before I order roses, I am considering having a soil test done. How can I have this done through the Maricopa cooperative extension? Sincerely, Michele Fillion email: micheledesigns@yahoo.com _____ Do you Yahoo!? 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RElWPg0KICA8RElWPiZuYnNwOyZuYnNwOyZuYnNwOyZuYnNwOyBTaW5jZXJlbHksIE1pY2hlbGUg RmlsbGlvbjwvRElWPg0KICA8RElWPiZuYnNwOyZuYnNwOyZuYnNwOyZuYnNwOyBlbWFpbDogbWlj aGVsZWRlc2lnbnNAeWFob28uY29tPC9ESVY+PC9ESVY+DQogIDxQPg0KICA8SFIgU0laRT0xPg0K ICBEbyB5b3UgWWFob28hPzxCUj48QSANCiAgaHJlZj0iaHR0cDovL3VzLnJkLnlhaG9vLmNvbS9z bHYvbWFpbHRhZy8qaHR0cDovL2NvbXBhbmlvbi55YWhvby5jb20vIj5GcmVlIA0KICBQb3AtVXAg QmxvY2tlciAtIEdldCBpdCBub3c8L0E+PC9CTE9DS1FVT1RFPjwvQk9EWT48L0hUTUw+DQo= ------_=_NextPart_001_01C3B8DB.30C1A8D4-- From ASUsped@aol.com Wed Dec 3 06:21:06 2003 From: ASUsped@aol.com (ASUsped@aol.com) Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2003 01:21:06 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Arid_gardener] Arid Gardener FAQ Message-ID: <1ee.14b55b8d.2cfedad2@aol.com> I think that would be a great idea because I am sure that a time would come when I am going to have a question that was answer before and a web link would be very helpful, and not so embarrassing to ask them......thank you for the suggestion,,,,,,,,Mike From pwolterb@Ag.arizona.edu Wed Dec 3 06:17:47 2003 From: pwolterb@Ag.arizona.edu (pwolterb@Ag.arizona.edu) Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2003 06:17:47 US/Arizona Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plants-of-the-Bible Tour Sunday Message-ID: <200312031317.hB3DHlY4010544@Ag.arizona.edu> greetings master gardeners - boyce thompson arboretum has a guided tour series ("plants of the bible") which you might enjoy during this yuletide season. three tours are scheduled this month, the first one is sunday. ________________ Plants-of-the-Bible Tour Sunday at Boyce Thompson Arboretum UA Students, staff and faculty get $1 off admission when you show an I.D., so plan a trip to Boyce Thompson Arboretum this weekend. Fall colors are at their peak (see photos on the website) and Sunday there's a guided birdwalk at 8:30 a.m. and a chance to explore both botany and scripture during a two-hour "Plants of the Bible" guided tour at 2 p.m. Fall color remains glorious at this 320 acre collection of arid land ecosystems that's located 90 minutes north of Tucson via highways 79 and 60. Future "Plants of the Bible" walks will be at 2 p.m. Dec. 13 & 27; January 4, 10, & 24. Admission to the general public is $6 for adults, $3 for ages 5-12. Picnic tables and grills are available, there are more than two miles of trails to explore, leashed and well-behaved pets are welcome! Read more about the Plants of the Bible tour online at: http://arboretum.ag.arizona.edu/events/bibleplants.html Phone: 520.689.2811 --------------------------------------------- College of Agriculture and Life Sciences Web Mail. http://ag.arizona.edu From JeanSciFi@mchsi.com Thu Dec 4 01:14:57 2003 From: JeanSciFi@mchsi.com (Jean Twidwell) Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2003 18:14:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ficus tree disease Message-ID: <003e01c3ba04$08fb7a80$6b01a8c0@youro0kwkw9jwc> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_003B_01C3B9C9.5BF5B420 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hello, We recently removed a number of 20 year old Ficus trees that had been = hedged as long as I can remember. We were told they had some disease; = one actually died. Our landscaper told us that there was some disease = in the valley attacking ficus trees. I would like to verify this = information and if it is true learn the name of the disease. I'm = somewhat concerned that the landscaper brought the disease to our park = in Apache Junction via his cutting tools. Do you think that is a = possibility? Thank you, JeanSciFi@mchsi.com ------=_NextPart_000_003B_01C3B9C9.5BF5B420 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hello,

We recently removed a number of 20 year = old Ficus=20 trees that had been hedged as long as I can remember. We were told = they=20 had some disease; one actually died. Our landscaper told us that=20 there was some disease in the valley attacking ficus trees. = I would=20 like to verify this information and if it is true learn the name of the=20 disease. I'm somewhat concerned that the landscaper brought the = disease to=20 our park in Apache Junction via his cutting tools. Do you think that is = a=20 possibility?

Thank you, JeanSciFi@mchsi.com

------=_NextPart_000_003B_01C3B9C9.5BF5B420-- From BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu Thu Dec 4 15:22:49 2003 From: BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Thu, 04 Dec 2003 08:22:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] I am so sorry! Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20031204081919.00b1a3b0@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_4984196==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Greetings, If your name has mistakenly been subscribed to the arid_gardener list please let us know and we will take you off immediately! You can just hit reply to this message. Sorry for the inconvenience! Lucy Bradley >Date: Tue, 02 Dec 2003 11:23:10 -0700 >To: bradleyl@Ag.arizona.edu >From: Robert MacArthur >Subject: Arid Gardener List > > >Lucy, > >We screwed up and erased the Arid Gardener List - we restored it but we >had to add back in some old names that were deleted. Can you take a look >at it and tell us any you know we should get rid of? Thanks, and sorry >for the mess - > > > >Robert MacArthur >222 Forbes >University of Arizona >Tucson, Az. 85721 >520 - 621-2489 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert. "The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona." ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ --=====================_4984196==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Greetings,

If your name has mistakenly been subscribed to the arid_gardener list please let us know and we will take you off immediately!
You can just hit reply to this message.

Sorry for the inconvenience!

Lucy Bradley

Date: Tue, 02 Dec 2003 11:23:10 -0700
To: bradleyl@Ag.arizona.edu
From: Robert MacArthur
Subject: Arid Gardener List

Lucy,

We screwed up and erased the Arid Gardener List - we restored it but we had to add back in some old names that were deleted. Can you take a look at it and tell us any you know we should get rid of? Thanks, and sorry for the mess - <SNIP>

Robert MacArthur
222 Forbes
University of Arizona
Tucson, Az. 85721
520 - 621-2489

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807

Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax: (602) 470-8092
email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/
http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens

Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program
To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert.

"The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona."
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

--=====================_4984196==_.ALT-- From alynnz@msn.com Thu Dec 4 19:09:53 2003 From: alynnz@msn.com (alynnz@msn.com) Date: Thu, 4 Dec 2003 12:09:53 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200312041909.hB4J9rY4020662@Ag.arizona.edu> Hello, I have a mature March grapefuit tree with fruit on it. The tree is close to my residence, the drip line is along a wall of the garage. About a week ago the whole house was treated with the termiticide Termador. The soil along the garage was treated. My question is should I be concerned about the safety of eating the fruit? Thanks Allen From bholc@juno.com Thu Dec 4 17:41:00 2003 From: bholc@juno.com (bholc@juno.com) Date: Thu, 4 Dec 2003 10:41:00 -0700 Subject: Fw: [Arid_gardener] Ficus tree disease Message-ID: <20031204.104101.-1696131.1.bholc@juno.com> This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ----__JNP_000_6fd8.49d4.5761 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I hope this party gets more and better information than I have, when I've tried to find information, possible cures, etc., for a bark-destroying disease in both, a grapefruit tree and a mesquite tree. It's "common" feature seems to be a globule of amber-colored "sap". It's called a Chilean Mesquite. This is in Sun City. Some "gardener" expert said that it's gumatosis but I can't find such a disease described anywhere---nor any possible treatments, etc. And no replies from "gardener" organizations. Boyd Holcomb, bholc@juno.com ----- Forwarded Message ----- From: "Jean Twidwell" To: "Arid Gardener Board" Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2003 18:14:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ficus tree disease Message-ID: <003e01c3ba04$08fb7a80$6b01a8c0@youro0kwkw9jwc> Hello, We recently removed a number of 20 year old Ficus trees that had been hedged as long as I can remember. We were told they had some disease; one actually died. Our landscaper told us that there was some disease in the valley attacking ficus trees. I would like to verify this information and if it is true learn the name of the disease. I'm somewhat concerned that the landscaper brought the disease to our park in Apache Junction via his cutting tools. Do you think that is a possibility? Thank you, JeanSciFi@mchsi.com ----__JNP_000_6fd8.49d4.5761 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I hope this party gets more and better information than I have, when I= 've=20 tried to find information, possible cures, etc., for

a bark-destroying disease in both, a grapefruit

tree and a mesquite tree. It's "common" feature

seems to be a globule of amber-colored "sap".

It's called a Chilean Mesquite.

This is in Sun City.

Some "gardener" expert said that it's gumatosis

but I can't find such a disease described anywhere---nor any possible= =20 treatments, etc.

And no replies from "gardener" organizations.

Boyd Holcomb, bholc@juno.com

----- Forwarded Message -----

From: "Jean Twidwell" <JeanSciFi@mchsi.com>

To: "Arid Gardener Board" <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>

Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2003 18:14:57 -0700

Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ficus tree disease

Message-ID:=20 <003e01c3ba04$08fb7a80$6b01a8c0@youro0kwkw9jwc>

Hello,

We recently removed a number of 20 year = old Ficus=20 trees that had been hedged as long as I can remember. We were told = they=20 had some disease; one actually died. Our landscaper told us that=20 there was some disease in the valley attacking ficus trees. I = would=20 like to verify this information and if it is true learn the name of the=20 disease. I'm somewhat concerned that the landscaper brought the = disease to=20 our park in Apache Junction via his cutting tools. Do you think that is a=20 possibility?

Thank you, JeanSciFi@mchsi.com

----__JNP_000_6fd8.49d4.5761-- From 4bobandlucy@cox.net Fri Dec 5 02:55:21 2003 From: 4bobandlucy@cox.net (Bob 'n' Lucy) Date: Thu, 4 Dec 2003 19:55:21 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Arid_Gardener - PLAN B Message-ID: <000801c3badb$3989eb50$0164a8c0@bradley> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C3BAA0.8CF11790 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Greetings, You have been unsubscribed from the Arid_Gardener List. While the list manager's and I have made a valiant effort to = individually unsubscribe those of you who have asked to be removed and = leave the rest, that strategy is not going to meet everyone's needs = quickly enough. As it turns out, almost 1,000 were accidentally added = to the arid_gardener list yesterday. so . . . Plan B . . . I am going to unsubscribe everyone from the arid_gardener list. If you would like to re-subscribe to the list please click on the link = below: http://ag.arizona.edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener scroll to the bottom of the page and enter your email. If you have any difficulty re-subscribing to the list please let me know = and I would be happy to re-subscribe you. Lucy = Bradley I am very sorry for the inconvenience! Warmest regards! Lucy Bradley ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C3BAA0.8CF11790 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Greetings,

You have been = unsubscribed from the=20 Arid_Gardener List.

While the list = manager's and I have=20 made a valiant effort to individually unsubscribe those of you who have = asked to=20 be removed and leave the rest, that strategy is not going to meet = everyone's=20 needs quickly enough. As it turns out, almost 1,000 were=20 accidentally added to the arid_gardener list yesterday. =20 so . . . Plan B . . .

I am going to = unsubscribe everyone=20 from the arid_gardener list.

If you would like to = re-subscribe to=20 the list please click on the link below:

http://ag.a= rizona.edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener

scroll to the bottom of = the page and=20 enter your email.

If you have any = difficulty=20 re-subscribing to the list please let me know and I would be happy to=20 re-subscribe you. Lucy Bradley<BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu>

I am very sorry for the = inconvenience!

Warmest = regards!

Lucy=20 Bradley

------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C3BAA0.8CF11790-- From Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com Fri Dec 5 14:21:18 2003 From: Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com (Zelhart Alan-rpcs30) Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 07:21:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Arid_Gardener - PLAN B Message-ID: <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B99307083B3736@az33exm25.corp.mot.com> This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C3BB3B.0C6A132E Content-Type: text/plain Hey, Please don't unsubscribe me. I do not want unsubscribed!! :) I've been on this list for years. -- Chat with you later, Alan -- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ----- Alan Zelhart gizmoaz@cox.net Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- ***** I would have written a shorter letter ... if I had the time -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu] On Behalf Of Bob 'n' Lucy Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2003 7:55 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Cc: lab@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Arid_Gardener - PLAN B Greetings, You have been unsubscribed from the Arid_Gardener List. While the list manager's and I have made a valiant effort to individually unsubscribe those of you who have asked to be removed and leave the rest, that strategy is not going to meet everyone's needs quickly enough. As it turns out, almost 1,000 were accidentally added to the arid_gardener list yesterday. so . . . Plan B . . . I am going to unsubscribe everyone from the arid_gardener list. If you would like to re-subscribe to the list please click on the link below: http://ag.arizona.edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener scroll to the bottom of the page and enter your email. If you have any difficulty re-subscribing to the list please let me know and I would be happy to re-subscribe you. Lucy Bradley > I am very sorry for the inconvenience! Warmest regards! 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page Message-ID: <200312051043.hB5AhDY4007350@Ag.arizona.edu> What are the pro's and cons of planting grape vines or bamboo From fduanem@msn.com Fri Dec 5 17:35:45 2003 From: fduanem@msn.com (Duane frank) Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 10:35:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Soil Test Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0031_01C3BB1B.8A6E4760 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Where can I get my soil tested? F. Duane Marcum ------=_NextPart_000_0031_01C3BB1B.8A6E4760 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Where can I get my soil tested?

F. Duane Marcum

------=_NextPart_000_0031_01C3BB1B.8A6E4760-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Dec 5 22:34:52 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 05 Dec 2003 22:34:52 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] grape vines amd bamboo Message-ID: One person's opinion (I'm sure others have ideas, too): grapes - Pro beautiful, lush vine produces food deciduous, nice fall color good shade in summer, lets in winter sun attracts birds and other wildlife easy to train over and around structures grapes - Con takes a lot of water must be pruned every year usually have to deal with grapeleaf skeletonizer may have to battle whiteflies in late summer bamboo - Pro a beautiful sculptural plant evergreen attractive for screening poor views tough and easy to grow bamboo - Con very invasive; can be hard to control best if create a bottomless container to plant it in can take a lot of water (survives with less) Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: brolar1@msn.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 03:43:13 -0700 (MST) > >What are the pro's and cons of planting grape vines or bamboo > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Cell phone �switch� rules are taking effect � find out more here. http://special.msn.com/msnbc/consumeradvocate.armx From bolligaf@msn.com Sun Dec 7 04:19:23 2003 From: bolligaf@msn.com (bolligaf@msn.com) Date: Sat, 6 Dec 2003 21:19:23 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200312070419.hB74JNF1017930@Ag.arizona.edu> We have been composting for 10 years in a small vegetable garden, but lately nothing seems to sprout, about all we can grow is cabbage. We live in Tempe. Where can we take the soil to be tested to see what we need to adjust the balance? From jrwojcik@att.net Sat Dec 6 22:48:42 2003 From: jrwojcik@att.net (jrwojcik@att.net) Date: Sat, 6 Dec 2003 15:48:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200312062248.hB6MmgF1018615@Ag.arizona.edu> I have burrowers near the house foundation, garden wall an outlying trees. They leave dirt piles but also open holes. Are they rats or some sort of gopher? WEhat control methods area recommended? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Dec 5 22:18:45 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 05 Dec 2003 22:18:45 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Soil Test Message-ID: If you live in southern Arizona, the following web page list labs: http://cals.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/soiltest.htm Usually, you need to know what specifically you are looking for and tests may be expensive. Call first and get information on tests available, costs, and the type of sample needed. Our desert soils are typically low in organic matter and highly alkaline. To grow non-native plants such as flowers and vegetables, you will want to add generous amounts of organic matter, ammonium phosphate and soil sulphur. Generous amoints of organic matter need to be reapplied once or twice a year as organic matter disappears quickly in our hot, arid environment. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Duane frank" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Soil Test >Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 10:35:45 -0700 > >Where can I get my soil tested? > >F. Duane Marcum _________________________________________________________________ Winterize your home with tips from MSN House & Home. http://special.msn.com/home/warmhome.armx From jgdunn@cox.net Sat Dec 6 02:26:30 2003 From: jgdunn@cox.net (jgdunn@cox.net) Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 19:26:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200312060226.hB62QUF1000111@Ag.arizona.edu> I cant seem to get good size to my navel oranges. If I fertilize three times a Year how much for each application? I water once a week for 45minutes. From septictech@worldnet.att.net Fri Dec 5 23:11:02 2003 From: septictech@worldnet.att.net (Kevin Kirkpatrick) Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 16:11:02 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] lantanas Message-ID: <000801c3bb85$1041d460$0100a8c0@user> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C3BB4A.613BF840 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I planted 3 varieties of lantanas in my flower beds about 15 months ago. = The gold has taken off beautifully, the purple is on it's way and the = white dwarf is just that, a dwarf. =20 I live in Goodyear, AZ and in the last 2 weeks, I have noticed all my = lantanas are looking very dry and turning somewhat brown, as if they are = trying to die. I did not notice this last winter. They are being = watered every 3 days for about 40 minutes I think. What am I doing = wrong? Gina ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C3BB4A.613BF840 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I planted 3 varieties of lantanas in my = flower beds about 15 months ago. The gold has taken off = beautifully,=20 the purple is on it's way and the white dwarf is just that, a = dwarf. =20

I live in Goodyear, AZ and in the last = 2 weeks, I=20 have noticed all my lantanas are looking very dry and turning somewhat = brown, as=20 if they are trying to die. I did not notice this last = winter. They=20 are being watered every 3 days for about 40 minutes I think. What = am I=20 doing wrong?

Gina

------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C3BB4A.613BF840-- From dinonut@Access-4-Free.com Mon Dec 8 00:21:19 2003 From: dinonut@Access-4-Free.com (dinonut@Access-4-Free.com) Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2003 17:21:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200312080021.hB80LJF1029412@Ag.arizona.edu> Although I have never planted Bermuda grass in my yard, my entire vegetable garden has been taken over by the &^%$ grass/weed. It has been years since I've been able to plant a garden and I really miss it. I am also an organic gardener, but am nearly to the point of trying anything that will rid me of this prolific and hardy pest, even if it means losing further planting time after applying some noxious chemical. I have tried covering the garden with black plastic and even newspapers to smother the Bermuda, but it always manages to bounce right back. It's really a crime but for the past ten years all I've raised is Bermuda and my former garden plot now has to be mowed. Help! From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Dec 8 00:31:11 2003 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2003 17:31:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] FW: Eureka Lemon Tree Message-ID: Would someone kindly reply to Bob? Many thanks. Linda Guy, MG Maricopa County, AZ -----Original Message----- From: ROBERT PRATT [mailto:bomarg@earthlink.net] Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2003 8:54 PM To: lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: Eureka Lemon Tree Hi Linda - We live in Southern California. We have, we believe, a Eureka lemon tree in our backyard. We've always kept it fairly full and it's given much fruit - just about year round, and for many years. A year ago, our gardener pruned it down considerably - maybe too much. Over the past ten or so months the tree has grown back rapidly. We have been deep watering it along with a smaller grapefruit tree and two avocado trees. (The grapefruit tree produces delicious fruit.) As for the lemon tree, haven't seen any fruit so far, not even a flower bud, and my wife doesn't want the canopy pruned. Now the tree is slightly higher than the second story window of our neighbor's house. My wife says she believes the Eureka needs to be large, and hasn't wanted me to prune it. I, on the other hand, would like to keep the tree at about 9 -10 feet high and about 8 feet in diameter. Do you have any suggestions? One more problem - our two avocados, about 10 years old and planted about six feet apart appear healthy but never produced any fruit - that is until this summer, when our gardener handed me a medium size avocado to our astonishment. Nothing before, and nothing since!! Thank you. Bob From pauljupdike@mindspring.com Sun Dec 7 21:50:11 2003 From: pauljupdike@mindspring.com (pauljupdike@mindspring.com) Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2003 14:50:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200312072150.hB7LoBF1017059@Ag.arizona.edu> We had a huge crabapple tree in our back yard in Central Phoenix when I was growing up. My mom suggests it was probably planted in 1945 when that house was built. By the 1960s, when we moved in, this tree was probably 12 feet tall with a 30 foot canopy. The fruit was bigger than a golf ball in size, light green in color with a strong sour flavor. The jam it made was wonderful. All the nursuries I have gone too tell me that crabapple trees do not grow in Phoenix. But my family made jam from a huge one! The yard (and tree) was regularly irrigated and the tree was in a spot of yard that was protected from the sun in probably the coolest place of the yard. My questions are: what variety of crabapple might this be, and where can I procure one? Then when do I plant, any particular instructions, etc? I live on a lot in Mesa with over one-half acre of irrigated back yard. We have already planted citris trees that are beginning to fruit. There is enough shade that I could approximately duplicate the conditions of the back yard of my youth. Thank you for your help and suggestions. From hokon1@cox.net Mon Dec 8 16:20:13 2003 From: hokon1@cox.net (hokon1@cox.net) Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 09:20:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200312081620.hB8GKDF1014722@Ag.arizona.edu> what is the best way to get rid of trips by spray or other. on fruit trees. i hope i spelled the right way on thebug thank you From Lisette@asu.edu Mon Dec 8 21:49:05 2003 From: Lisette@asu.edu (Lisette@asu.edu) Date: Mon, 08 Dec 2003 14:49:05 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200312080021.hB80LJF1029412@Ag.arizona.edu> References: <200312080021.hB80LJF1029412@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <1070920145.3fd4f1d1c81d2@webmail.asu.edu> Quoting dinonut@Access-4-Free.com: > Although I have never planted Bermuda grass in my yard, my entire > vegetable garden has been taken over by the &^%$ grass/weed. It has > been years since I've been able to plant a garden and I really miss it. > Oooh, do I sympathize! We do the same struggle and don't use chemicals. One thing that works for us is to prepare the soil with lots of organic amendments, cover that with a solid layer of cardboard, and then put purchased mulch, steer manure, topsoil on top of the cardboard. This gives us about 6 - 8 months Bermuda free growing. Next time, I'd like to try a border of 12 x 12 paving slabs around the garden, for a mowing strip and to make the incoming pieces of Bermuda more vulnerable and noticeable. If we could manage daily vigilance of our borders, we might even be able to go longer than 8 months. But, yes, its a battle! This year our zucchini did so well, that it romped out of the garden, over the lawn, and managed to overcome the Bermuda under it. Good Luck and if anyone else has ideas, please share them. Lisette (not a MG) From zacklehtinen@hotmail.com Mon Dec 8 20:20:40 2003 From: zacklehtinen@hotmail.com (Zack Lehtinen) Date: Mon, 08 Dec 2003 20:20:40 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Local Tucson Community Garden Project Begins, Sat. 12/13 Noon-4 Message-ID: Hello Arid Gardeners!! Come help us break ground, and meet other gardeners... Urban garden will include rainwater capture as primary irrigation, organic/ permaculture methods. Small lot behind the Sangin warehouse, near train tracks off 4th Ave., downtown (corner of 6th Ave/ 8th St.). Plan to grow diverse organic vegetables, fruits, flowers, trees, cacti, grasses-- possibly to sell at farmer's market or as local weekly food deliveries, seasonally. First, though, we must repair the soil... This weekend's groundbreaking will be just that-- breaking open a thin veil of asphalt currently obscuring the soil... This is going to be an intriguing, challenging long-term project-- come be there as we begin!! Thanks for your attention. -Zack Lehtinen Tree Frog Ecology, Ecological Landscaping and Irrigation 398-6677 _________________________________________________________________ Tired of slow downloads and busy signals? Get a high-speed Internet connection! Comparison-shop your local high-speed providers here. https://broadband.msn.com From gibshry@cox.net Tue Dec 9 03:03:14 2003 From: gibshry@cox.net (G. Cooper) Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 20:03:14 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] I am so sorry! References: <5.1.0.14.2.20031204081919.00b1a3b0@ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <007701c3be00$fcaf9a30$0200a8c0@gilbertocgidv2> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0074_01C3BDC6.5038F470 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Arid Gardener @ ASU: I've just returned home to receive this e-mail. I however am gibshry@cox.net & there is no=20 problem for me to receive info. from the arid=20 gardener. I too have problems with plants=20 since moving here from the Midwest. Thanks=20 for the mistake. ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Lucy Bradley=20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2003 8:22 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] I am so sorry! Greetings, If your name has mistakenly been subscribed to the arid_gardener list = please let us know and we will take you off immediately! You can just hit reply to this message. Sorry for the inconvenience! Lucy Bradley Date: Tue, 02 Dec 2003 11:23:10 -0700 To: bradleyl@Ag.arizona.edu From: Robert MacArthur=20 Subject: Arid Gardener List Lucy, We screwed up and erased the Arid Gardener List - we restored it but = we had to add back in some old names that were deleted. Can you take a = look at it and tell us any you know we should get rid of? Thanks, and = sorry for the mess - Robert MacArthur 222 Forbes University of Arizona Tucson, Az. 85721 520 - 621-2489 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an = environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low = desert. "The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not = be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of = Arizona." ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ------=_NextPart_000_0074_01C3BDC6.5038F470 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Arid Gardener @ ASU:

I've just returned home to receive this e-mail.

I however am gibshry@cox.net = &=20 there is no

problem for me to receive info. from the arid

gardener. I too have problems with plants

since moving here from the Midwest. Thanks

for the mistake.

----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Lucy=20 Bradley

To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= =20

Sent: Thursday, December 04, = 2003 8:22=20 AM

Subject: [Arid_gardener] I am = so=20 sorry!

Greetings,

If your name has mistakenly been = subscribed=20 to the arid_gardener list please let us know and we will take you off=20 immediately!
You can just hit reply to this message.

Sorry = for the=20 inconvenience!

Lucy Bradley

Date: Tue, 02 Dec = 2003 11:23:10=20 -0700
To: bradleyl@Ag.arizona.edu
Fr= om:=20 Robert MacArthur
Subject: Arid Gardener = List

Lucy,

We=20 screwed up and erased the Arid Gardener List - we restored it but we = had to=20 add back in some old names that were deleted. Can you take a = look at=20 it and tell us any you know we should get rid of? Thanks, and = sorry=20 for the mess - <SNIP>

Robert MacArthur
222=20 Forbes
University of Arizona
Tucson, Az. 85721
520 -=20 621-2489

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Lucy K. Bradley
Extension = Agent,=20 Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona = Cooperative=20 Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ =20 85040-8807

Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax: = (602)=20 470-8092
email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/
http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens

<= B>Mission=20 of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program
To teach people = to=20 select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible = manner=20 based on research specific to the low desert.

"The=20 opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be = taken as=20 a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of=20 = Arizona."
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~= ~~~~

------=_NextPart_000_0074_01C3BDC6.5038F470-- From Starlene Stewart" <1070920145.3fd4f1d1c81d2@webmail.asu.edu> Message-ID: <000401c3bdec$5c9b02a0$eafc3841@stewart> Hi, when Bermuda grass was a concern for me, I finally ended up resorting to going to Home Depot and buying the 12" to 16" rolls of sheet metal. You can find it back in the roofing section, and I think the rolls are about 25' long. Actually, iirc, it was someone here on Arid Gardener who told me about that. Anyway, you clear your bed of bermuda and you really have to go through every bit of dirt. We built a wooden frame with 1/4" hardware cloth tacked to it, and literally sifted every shovelful of dirt. Bermuda has rhizomes that break off if you try to pull it out by the grass part, and before you know it, it's spread all over the garden again (and they grow down to about a foot deep!). Once you have your area clear of Bermuda, then put the sheet metal around the perimeter of the bed. It's best if you put it at least 6-8" into the dirt, and still sticking up 4-6". You will still need to weedeat around the sheet metal on the outside of the garden bed, as the Bermuda will creep and crawl into the garden and set down roots again. I never used poisons to eradicate the Bermuda from my vegetable garden beds, although I did one year resort to using poisons in the regular yard against the burr clover because the prior year the entire yard had overgrown with them and there were so many burrs that I could sweep them up in a pile! Now I don't have to fight bermuda, as I live out in Maricopa and we have only dirt and more dirt. The pests now are live critters. Little sparrows, that are small enough to fit through 1" chicken wire. We fenced an 18' x 22' area, sides and top, and if it's not the sparrows, it's rabbits, gophers and squirrels burrowing underneath! I was advised by folks here to use 1/2" aviary wire, but it is SOOOOO expensive that I just couldn't bring myself to invest in $300 worth of fencing. Eradicating the bermuda in this way is worth it though. Good luck, Starlene Stewart (not a MG) Maricopa, Arizona ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Cc: Sent: Monday, December 08, 2003 2:49 PM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Quoting dinonut@Access-4-Free.com: > > > Although I have never planted Bermuda grass in my yard, my entire > > vegetable garden has been taken over by the &^%$ grass/weed. It has > > been years since I've been able to plant a garden and I really miss it. > > > > Oooh, do I sympathize! We do the same struggle and don't use chemicals. One > thing that works for us is to prepare the soil with lots of organic amendments, > cover that with a solid layer of cardboard, and then put purchased mulch, steer > manure, topsoil on top of the cardboard. This gives us about 6 - 8 months > Bermuda free growing. Next time, I'd like to try a border of 12 x 12 paving > slabs around the garden, for a mowing strip and to make the incoming pieces of > Bermuda more vulnerable and noticeable. If we could manage daily vigilance of > our borders, we might even be able to go longer than 8 months. But, yes, its a > battle! This year our zucchini did so well, that it romped out of the garden, > over the lawn, and managed to overcome the Bermuda under it. > > Good Luck and if anyone else has ideas, please share them. > > Lisette (not a MG) > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From edgecenter@hotmail.com Wed Dec 10 15:20:07 2003 From: edgecenter@hotmail.com (John Michael Kearney) Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 08:20:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Arid List Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20031210081917.04b866f0@ag.arizona.edu> And...I have a question that I'd like to get a quick response. Monday morning our landscaper delivered 1000 sq ft of sod. Tifway 419. They were suppose to lay the sod around noon on Monday. They didn't and they didn't lay it all day, claiming they were too busy. This morning they were suppose to come out and lay it around 8am. Again they didn't show up. I recall hearing a Master Gardeners saying that we should always get FRESH SOD cut that same day. In our case, if they have not laid the sod by end of day today, should we ask them for FRESH SOD or go with the stuff that's been sitting out on our street since Monday 7am? Or will it be ok? Thanks. ---------------------------------------- John Michael Kearney 6024 S 22nd Drive Phoenix, AZ 85041 From mhills@seedsolutions.com Thu Dec 11 00:24:41 2003 From: mhills@seedsolutions.com (Mike Hills) Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2003 17:24:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] RE: Bermuda sod In-Reply-To: <5.1.0.14.2.20031210081917.04b866f0@ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <006a01c3bf7d$2c1b7500$0500a8c0@RSIOAQ3YCFIW63> Mr. Kearny You should be fine with this sod, but should ask your landscape installer for some sort of guarantee. Bermudagrass sod is usually dormant this time of year and sleeping/not actively growing, so sitting harvested in cool weather does not cause it harm, as long as just for a few days and as long as it does not dry out. (During the summer heat, when most bermuda sod is planted, it would be badly stressed and not a good idea to have sod sitting on the street for several days before planting - this matches the Master Gardener recommendation you recall hearing) On winter planted bermuda sod, it will usually start growing some roots again in the winter, so you can lift the edge several weeks after planting and check if new roots are showing up. Otherwise, the bermuda sod should green up again sometime after March, and at that point you will really know how well it took. One last note - you did not say if this sod is already overseeded with ryegrass for winter green color - if not, that is o.k. and see the notes above. If it does have ryegrass seeded in it already, then be aware that the ryegrass seedlings are immature, with shallow weak roots since they are only a few months old and they will likely show the stress of sitting on the pallet waiting to be planted. Many times they will bounce back as soon as they get planted and get some fresh air, water and sunshine again - but you may want to keep the installer's number handy in case the ryegrass looks bad after 7-10 days. Hope this is helpful. Mike Hills Master Gardener, Maricopa County Research Agronomist, Seed Research of Oregon ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---- -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of John Michael Kearney (by way of Lucy Bradley ) Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2003 8:20 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Arid List And...I have a question that I'd like to get a quick response. Monday morning our landscaper delivered 1000 sq ft of sod. Tifway 419. They were suppose to lay the sod around noon on Monday. They didn't and they didn't lay it all day, claiming they were too busy. This morning they were suppose to come out and lay it around 8am. Again they didn't show up. I recall hearing a Master Gardeners saying that we should always get FRESH SOD cut that same day. In our case, if they have not laid the sod by end of day today, should we ask them for FRESH SOD or go with the stuff that's been sitting out on our street since Monday 7am? Or will it be ok? Thanks. ---------------------------------------- John Michael Kearney 6024 S 22nd Drive Phoenix, AZ 85041 _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From erdenet@msn.com Thu Dec 11 21:20:36 2003 From: erdenet@msn.com (GERALD WYMAN) Date: Thu, 11 Dec 2003 14:20:36 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Key lime tree Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C3BFF1.F1EBECA0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Ihave a key lime tree that is about three years old. It is dropping = leaves and some are turning brown. Is this natural or a problem caused = by under/ over watering or lack of fertilizer? Any Suggestions? ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C3BFF1.F1EBECA0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Ihave a key lime tree that is about three years old. It is = dropping=20 leaves and some are turning brown. Is this natural or a problem caused = by under/=20 over watering or lack of fertilizer? Any = Suggestions?

------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C3BFF1.F1EBECA0-- From delsea@qwest.net Thu Dec 11 18:21:11 2003 From: delsea@qwest.net (JJE) Date: Thu, 11 Dec 2003 11:21:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] bermuda grass Message-ID: <00a101c3c013$8e342700$633c10ac@gr.casino> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_009E_01C3BFD8.E17CCEC0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I am an organic gardener & also could not get rid of the weed. But I tried vinegar & it worked. They have it at Fry's Marketplace & also at=20 Summerwinds Nursery. It is a spray bottle, $20 for a gallon. I had to spray a few times in certain spots but I no longer have any grass. Joyce Spay/Neuter, Adopt, Rescue, Don't Breed. The animals don't need your excuses -- they need YOU ------=_NextPart_000_009E_01C3BFD8.E17CCEC0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I am an organic = gardener & also=20 could not get rid of the weed. But I

tried vinegar & it=20 worked. They have it at Fry's Marketplace & also at =
Summerwinds=20 Nursery. It is a spray bottle, $20 for a gallon. I had = to
spray a=20 few times in certain spots but I no longer have any=20 grass.
Joyce

Spay/Neuter, Adopt, Rescue, Don't = Breed.
The=20 animals don't need your excuses -- they need = YOU

------=_NextPart_000_009E_01C3BFD8.E17CCEC0-- From BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu Thu Dec 11 16:46:55 2003 From: BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Thu, 11 Dec 2003 09:46:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Spring Maricopa County Master Gardener Class Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20031211093908.01f6cdb0@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_11968680==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Greetings, There are still a few slots left in the Master Gardener Class that will be starting on Jan 20, 2004. If you know someone who is interested in taking the class please refer them to our website http://cals.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/mgs/mg-broch.htm at the bottom is a link to an application. They can type in the information for the application right on-line, then print, attach their check and mail the application in to the Extension Office, to my attention, 4341 E Broadway Rd., Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807. Terry Mikel will be the lead instructor for the course and he has recruited a strong team of teachers including Dr. Mary Olsen, Plant Pathology, Dr. Peter Ellsworth Integrated Pest Management, James Truman. Director of the UA Citrus Station, Sharon Dewey, Turf Specialist with Western Sod, Kent Newland, Cacti and Succulent specialist, and more. Thanks for helping us to spread the word. warmest regards, Lucy ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert. "The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona." ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ --=====================_11968680==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Greetings,

There are still a few slots left in the Master Gardener Class that will be starting on Jan 20, 2004. If you know someone who is interested in taking the class please refer them to our website http://cals.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/mgs/mg-broch.htm

at the bottom is a link to an application. They can type in the information for the application right on-line, then print, attach their check and mail the application in to the Extension Office, to my attention, 4341 E Broadway Rd., Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807.

Terry Mikel will be the lead instructor for the course and he has recruited a strong team of teachers including Dr. Mary Olsen, Plant Pathology, Dr. Peter Ellsworth Integrated Pest Management, James Truman. Director of the UA Citrus Station, Sharon Dewey, Turf Specialist with Western Sod, Kent Newland, Cacti and Succulent specialist, and more.

Thanks for helping us to spread the word.

warmest regards,

Lucy

I was reading about many of the folks on the list = trying to get rid of Bermuda grass.=A0 I rescue African Spur Tortoises and can = never quite find enough of it.=A0 I was wondering if any arid gardeners with lots of = Bermuda would be interested in an arid tortoise?=A0 The African Spur is a desert tortoise = that grows to approx 150 lbs.=A0 They graze on feed quality Bermuda grass.=A0 = When mature they need approximately =BD acre to sustain them without having = to supplement with grass hay.=A0 They do not hibernate and must have a = shelter that is maintained at 75 degrees F in the winter.=A0 They certainly keep = Bermuda nicely trimmed!=A0

------=_NextPart_000_0003_01C3C001.3511DFD0-- From dorisnick@cybertrails.com Thu Dec 11 23:04:38 2003 From: dorisnick@cybertrails.com (doris nicholson) Date: Thu, 11 Dec 2003 16:04:38 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] mail help Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20031211160421.01edd388@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_33142676==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed I want to know why my young Ariz.sweet orange tree is getting yellow leaves and has no new growth. It was planted in May.. The grapefruit near by is fine and growing well. Thank you dorisnick@cybertrails.com --=====================_33142676==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
I want to know why my young Ariz.sweet orange tree is getting yellow leaves and has no new growth. It was planted in May.. The grapefruit near by is fine and growing well.

Thank you

dorisnick@cybertrails.com
--=====================_33142676==_.ALT-- From oooohflowers@cox.net Fri Dec 12 19:45:19 2003 From: oooohflowers@cox.net (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Fri, 12 Dec 2003 12:45:19 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] mail help In-Reply-To: <5.1.0.14.2.20031211160421.01edd388@ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C3C0AD.CCD8A090 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Doris; This was a very hot, dry summer. It is recommended that citrus be planted in March, while the air and soil are still relatively cool but the danger of frost has passed. I would say that you are fortunate that the tree survived its first summer! Yellow leaves is often a sign of overwatering. How often are you watering it? The top few inches of the soil should dry out in between waterings. During these cool months, your baby citrus tree should be watered approximately once every two weeks. Every time you water, the entire root zone should get wet. The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension has an excellent publication that deals specifically with this it's called AZ 1151 Irrigating Citrus and can be found online at http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf You also might consider attending one of the citrus clinics scheduled in January. You can learn just about anything you ever wanted to know about citrus at these events. For more info visit http://cals.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ or call (602) 470-1556 ext. 1012 for more information. Good luck. Kelly -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of doris nicholson (by way of Lucy Bradley ) Sent: Thursday, December 11, 2003 4:05 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] mail help I want to know why my young Ariz.sweet orange tree is getting yellow leaves and has no new growth. It was planted in May.. The grapefruit near by is fine and growing well. Thank you dorisnick@cybertrails.com ------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C3C0AD.CCD8A090 Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hi=20 Doris;

This was a very = hot, dry=20 summer. It is recommended that citrus be planted in March, while = the air=20 and soil are still relatively cool but the danger of frost has = passed. I=20 would say that you are fortunate that the tree survived its first=20 summer!

Yellow leaves = is often a=20 sign of overwatering. How often are you watering it? The top = few=20 inches of the soil should dry out in between waterings. During = these cool=20 months, your baby citrus tree should be watered approximately once every = two=20 weeks. Every time you water, the entire root zone should get = wet. =20 The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension has an excellent = publication=20 that deals specifically with this it's called AZ 1151 Irrigating Citrus = and can=20 be found online at http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf<= /SPAN>

You also might = consider=20 attending one of the citrus clinics scheduled in January. You can = learn=20 just about anything you ever wanted to know about citrus at these = events. =20 For more info visit http://cals.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ or call (602) 470-1556 ext. 1012 for more=20 information.

Good=20 luck.

Kelly

-----Original Message-----
From:=20 arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu=20 [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of doris = nicholson=20 (by way of Lucy Bradley = <BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu>)
Sent:=20 Thursday, December 11, 2003 4:05 PM
To:=20 arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: [Arid_gardener] mail=20 help

I want = to know why=20 my young Ariz.sweet orange tree is getting yellow leaves = and has=20 no new growth. It was planted in May.. The grapefruit near = by is=20 fine and growing well.

Thank=20 you

dorisnick@cybertrails.com
------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C3C0AD.CCD8A090-- From oooohflowers@cox.net Fri Dec 12 19:51:09 2003 From: oooohflowers@cox.net (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Fri, 12 Dec 2003 12:51:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Salvia plant care In-Reply-To: Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001A_01C3C0AE.9DBB82E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Mark; Do you know what species of Salvia you have? Most are perennials but there is at least one type that is sold as an annual. With my perennial salvias (I love them so!) I cut them back twice each year. Once in March, after winter has passed and again in September, when the worst of the heat is done. This gets rid of the frost and heat damaged stems. I would be reluctant to cut them now. Plants often respond to pruning by putting on a flush of new growth. It could frost any night now and you don't want to freeze the tender new foliage. Give them an occasional (every week or two) deep soaking during the winter and hope for the best. Good luck. Kelly -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Mark Sent: Saturday, October 11, 2003 7:28 AM To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Salvia plant care I planted salvia in April and they bloomed beautiful until re ently. Are these perenial? Do I need to cut them now that they seem to be dying? ------=_NextPart_000_001A_01C3C0AE.9DBB82E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi=20 Mark;

Do you=20 know what species of Salvia you have? Most are perennials = but there=20 is at least one type that is sold as an annual. With my perennial = salvias=20 (I love them so!) I cut them back twice each year. Once in March, = after=20 winter has passed and again in September, when the worst of the heat is=20 done. This gets rid of the frost and heat damaged stems. I = would be=20 reluctant to cut them now. Plants often respond to pruning by = putting on a=20 flush of new growth. It could frost any night now and you don't = want to=20 freeze the tender new foliage. Give them an occasional (every week = or two)=20 deep soaking during the winter and hope for the = best.

Good=20 luck.

Kelly

-----Original Message-----
From:=20 arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu=20 [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of=20 Mark
Sent: Saturday, October 11, 2003 7:28 = AM
To:=20 Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Salvia = plant=20 care

I planted salvia in April and they = bloomed=20 beautiful until re ently. Are these perenial? Do I = need to=20 cut them now that they seem to be = dying?
------=_NextPart_000_001A_01C3C0AE.9DBB82E0-- From TylerStorey@aol.com Fri Dec 12 20:17:46 2003 From: TylerStorey@aol.com (TylerStorey@aol.com) Date: Fri, 12 Dec 2003 15:17:46 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] bermuda grass Message-ID: <40.38699312.2d0b7c6a@aol.com> -------------------------------1071260266 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It's worth keeping in mind that even though the 5% dilution we use as household vinegar is pretty benign, the concentrations of acetic acid high enough to kill weeds are also hazardous to humans and should be used with the same care as any herbicide. In a message dated 12/11/2003 3:31:50 PM US Mountain Standard Time, delsea@qwest.net writes: I am an organic gardener & also could not get rid of the weed. But I tried vinegar & it worked. They have it at Fry's Marketplace & also at Summerwinds Nursery. It is a spray bottle, $20 for a gallon. I had to spray a few times in certain spots but I no longer have any grass. Joyce -------------------------------1071260266 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

It's worth keeping in mind that even though the 5% dilution we use as h= ousehold vinegar is pretty benign, the concentrations of acetic acid high en= ough to kill weeds are also hazardous to humans and should be used with the=20= same care as any herbicide.

In a message dated 12/11/2003 3:31:50 PM US Mountain Standard Time, del= sea@qwest.net writes:

I am an organi= c gardener & also could not get rid of the weed. But I

tried vi= negar & it worked. They have it at Fry's Marketplace & also at=
Summerwinds Nursery. It is a spray bottle, $20 for a gallon. = ; I had to
spray a few times in certain spots but I no longer have any gr= ass.
Joyce

-------------------------------1071260266-- From oooohflowers@cox.net Fri Dec 12 20:04:26 2003 From: oooohflowers@cox.net (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Fri, 12 Dec 2003 13:04:26 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200312072150.hB7LoBF1017059@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Hi Paul; I talked to Terry Mikel, the Commercial Horticulture Agent in Maricopa County about your crab apple question. As a result, I learned quite about the crabapple condition in Phoenix so I thank you for submitting your question. The nurseries weren't steering you wrong when they told you that crabapples generally don't do too well here in Phoenix. It sounds as if your family home had the perfect conditions back then. Night time temperatures have risen since the 60's (like prices, I suppose) so chances are, conditions are probably less favorable now then they were back then for a good fruit set. Crabapples, like its relatives, require a certain number of chilling hours for decent fruit set. We can expect fewer chilling hours now then we could 30 - 40 years ago. With that doomsday - global warming stuff aside, do you know if the tree is still alive? If so, you might consider asking the current homeowners for a cutting. If you aren't comfortable doing so, you might ask some of the local growers, like Mountain States, Harpers or Desert Tree Farms to see if they are interested in getting cuttings and giving you one as a finder's fee! You might also consider going on a road trip in search of crabapple trees. Nurseries in Globe, Payson and Flagstaff might carry some varieties that will at least survive here in Phoenix. Peruse the Stark Bros Nursery and Orchard Catalog for low chill varieties. Catalogs can be requested online at http://www.starkbros.com/ One more question: Do you know if your childhood home was owned by someone named Bill Brechen before your family moved in? Apparently, he developed a wonderful crabapple cultivar called "Hopi" that is occasionally spotted in Phoenix. If you find out anything new, would you let us know? Good luck, I hope this helps. Kelly -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of pauljupdike@mindspring.com Sent: Sunday, December 07, 2003 2:50 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We had a huge crabapple tree in our back yard in Central Phoenix when I was growing up. My mom suggests it was probably planted in 1945 when that house was built. By the 1960s, when we moved in, this tree was probably 12 feet tall with a 30 foot canopy. The fruit was bigger than a golf ball in size, light green in color with a strong sour flavor. The jam it made was wonderful. All the nursuries I have gone too tell me that crabapple trees do not grow in Phoenix. But my family made jam from a huge one! The yard (and tree) was regularly irrigated and the tree was in a spot of yard that was protected from the sun in probably the coolest place of the yard. My questions are: what variety of crabapple might this be, and where can I procure one? Then when do I plant, any particular instructions, etc? I live on a lot in Mesa with over one-half acre of irrigated back yard. We have already planted citris trees that are beginning to fruit. There is enough shade that I could approximately duplicate the conditions of the back yard of my youth. Thank you for your help and suggestions. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From DESERTPATRICK@AOL.COM Sat Dec 13 01:42:46 2003 From: DESERTPATRICK@AOL.COM (DESERTPATRICK@AOL.COM) Date: Fri, 12 Dec 2003 18:42:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200312130142.hBD1gkF1020529@Ag.arizona.edu> I AM HAVING PROBLEMS TRYING TO PROPOGATE THE SEEDS OF THE DESERT SOAP WEED. THE PLANT IS SIMULAR TO THE TYPICAL MIDWEST SOAP WEED THAT IS VERY ATTRACTIVE TO THE MONARCH BUTTERFLY. I HAVE TRIED PLANTING IN SOIL AND PLACING THEM ON A MOIST PAPER TOWEL AND NO LUCK AFTER MANY WEEKS. I NEED HELP! From lloyd_j@neto.com Sat Dec 13 17:18:35 2003 From: lloyd_j@neto.com (lloyd_j@neto.com) Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2003 10:18:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200312131718.hBDHIZF1011313@Ag.arizona.edu> I added lots of manure to my garden in the fall, I also added sawdust at the rate of 1 part swadust to 3 parts maure. Over all it added up to about 8in over the whole top of my garden. The manure is 1to 4 years old thesawdust is fresh cut, what I would like to know is did I add to much of eather and is sawdust realy good for my garden I grow vegetables. From BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu Sat Dec 13 00:41:18 2003 From: BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Fri, 12 Dec 2003 17:41:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Dec 2003 Master Gardener Journal Available on Line Now Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20031212173028.02d86ee8@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_12395764==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Greetings! In their Grand Finale Candice Sherrill, Donna Atwood, and their support team has prepared the last MG Journal of 2003, and the last under their leadership. The PDF version is available on line now. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/1203/Images/mgjournaldec.pdf Candice provided exceptional leadership for the Master Gardener Journal as it transitioned from the Horticulture Communicator into the Journal. She has done an outstanding job recruiting and managing a fine team of authors. Donna Atwood developed the new look for the Journal and has guided it artistically through it's formative first year. She donated her artistic skill and publishing experience to take us to a whole new level. Both Candice and Donna have been a joy to work with and we wish them all the best in their new endeavors. If you would like to thank them directly you can contact them at: * "Donna Atwood" * "Candice Sherrill" NOTE: They are retiring so please do not send them suggestions for the Journal, send those to me at bradleyl@ag.arizona.edu ;-) Lucy ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert. "The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona." ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert. "The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona." ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ --=====================_12395764==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Greetings!

In their Grand Finale Candice Sherrill, Donna Atwood, and their support team has prepared the last MG Journal of 2003, and the last under their leadership. The PDF version is available on line now.

http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/1203/Images/mgjournaldec.pdf

Candice provided exceptional leadership for the Master Gardener Journal as it transitioned from the Horticulture Communicator into the Journal. She has done an outstanding job recruiting and managing a fine team of authors.

Donna Atwood developed the new look for the Journal and has guided it artistically through it's formative first year. She donated her artistic skill and publishing experience to take us to a whole new level.

Both Candice and Donna have been a joy to work with and we wish them all the best in their new endeavors.

If you would like to thank them directly you can contact them at:

"Donna Atwood"<atwood@amug.org>
"Candice Sherrill" <candicesherrill@cox.net>
NOTE: They are retiring so please do not send them suggestions for the Journal, send those to me at bradleyl@ag.arizona.edu   ;-)

Lucy

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807

Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax: (602) 470-8092
email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/
http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens

Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program
To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert.

"The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona."
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807

Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax: (602) 470-8092
email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/
http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens

Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program
To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert.

"The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona."
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

--=====================_12395764==_.ALT-- From samdeny@juno.com Sun Dec 14 17:16:42 2003 From: samdeny@juno.com (samdeny@juno.com) Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2003 10:16:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200312141716.hBEHGgF1005253@Ag.arizona.edu> Hello, I am a resident of Phoenix, Arizona. I would like to have a plum tree for my yard. Being an avid gardener, I would like to ask if one of your members would know of one that needs a good home. I would provide that even if it has only a little life in it. This is probably not a proper way to go about this but I often give homeless plants a home and imagine at least one of your members would have an extra one. The tree I am writing about is all purple. The leaves and branches are purple. It is called some kind of plum. Please help me. Novice gardener. From StarkTddyBr@aol.com Sun Dec 14 20:39:28 2003 From: StarkTddyBr@aol.com (by way of Lucy Bradley ) Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2003 13:39:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Jacaranda tree Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20031214133904.00aefc28@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_29936366==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed I have a Jacaranda tree planted apx 6 mo. ago and about 10 feet tall. How much water should it be getting this winter? and when should I start pruning it? Ted Stark @ starktddybr@aol.com Thanks --=====================_29936366==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" I have a Jacaranda tree planted apx 6 mo. ago and about 10 feet tall. How much water should it be getting this winter? and when should I start pruning it? Ted Stark @ starktddybr@aol.com   Thanks --=====================_29936366==_.ALT-- From BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu Sun Dec 14 18:51:55 2003 From: BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2003 11:51:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: grape vines Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20031214115052.049abbb0@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_29929185==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Please reply to: rewboo@earthlink.net >Sir, > I bought a house built in central Phoenix almost four years ago. I > have a grape vine on the west side of my house that wraps around the > south side of my house. The main vine is about three inches thick. My > questions are, when is the dormant season for vines so I may trim off the > leaves? And two years ago I had lots of grapes and not to many > since. The first year I did nothing and the last two have fertilized and > maintained the soil. Guess I am doing some thing wrong! Could you > please help with your expertise? > >Thank you for your time!!!! >Kimberly > > >Kimberly Harrington >rewboo@earthlink.net >Why Wait? Move to EarthLink. > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert. "The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona." ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ --=====================_29929185==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

Please reply to: rewboo@earthlink.net

Sir,
    I bought a house built in central Phoenix almost four years ago. I have a grape vine on the west side of my house that wraps around the south side of my house. The main vine is about three inches thick. My questions are, when is the dormant season for vines so I may trim off the leaves? And two years ago I had lots of grapes and not to many since. The first year I did nothing and the last two have fertilized and maintained the soil. Guess I am doing some thing wrong! Could you please help with your expertise?

Thank you for your time!!!!
Kimberly

Kimberly Harrington
rewboo@earthlink.net
Why Wait? Move to EarthLink.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807

Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax: (602) 470-8092
email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/
http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens

Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program
To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert.

"The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona."
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

--=====================_29929185==_.ALT-- From BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu Sun Dec 14 18:52:55 2003 From: BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2003 11:52:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Tomatoes Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20031214115208.04a73238@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_29929195==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Please Reply to "Ron Dawson" At 03:05 PM 11/10/2003, you wrote: >Hi, > >I am growing some tomatoes in what is called an "Earth Box" and I noticed >the tips of some of the leafs have turned brown (please see attached >photo). I did notice white flies around and was wonder if the problem is >caused by them or ????? > >Any advice would be appreciated. > >Ron Dawson >4318 E. Walnut Rd >Gilbert, AZ 85297 >480 759 3845 >rdawson15@cox.net ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert. "The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona." ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ --=====================_29929195==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
Please Reply to "Ron Dawson" <rdawson15@cox.net>
At 03:05 PM 11/10/2003, you wrote:

Hi,

I am growing some tomatoes in what is called an "Earth Box" and I noticed the tips of some of the leafs have turned brown (please see attached photo). I did notice white flies around and was wonder if the problem is caused by them or ?????

Any advice would be appreciated.

Ron Dawson
4318 E. Walnut Rd
Gilbert, AZ 85297
480 759 3845
rdawson15@cox.net

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807

Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax: (602) 470-8092
email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/
http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens

Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program
To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert.

"The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona."
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

--=====================_29929195==_.ALT-- From ktucker@aztec.us Mon Dec 15 21:54:51 2003 From: ktucker@aztec.us (ktucker@aztec.us) Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 14:54:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200312152154.hBFLspF1001634@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a sweet acacia approximately 10-15 feet away from my vege garden. I noticed that when I was preping the garden for planting that there were alot of roots and because of the smell knew they were from the sweet acacia (and not some fungus, etc). Because that area of my yard is has rock pathways the only area that gets water is the garden area so the tree has taken advantage of the water I give my veg garden and taken over that soil area. I had pulled out most of the roots but my winter garden this year has been unsuccessful. nothing is growing with any vigor and my plants do not have that deep green healthy color, even though I am fertilizing about every two weeks. I am thinking the roots are either robbing nutrients and such or putting out some kind of chemical that doesn't allow certain plants to grow, any suggestions? thanks From PollyFred@aol.com Mon Dec 15 22:53:52 2003 From: PollyFred@aol.com (PollyFred@aol.com) Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 17:53:52 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roses.... Message-ID: <1ee.158d57f4.2d0f9580@aol.com> --part1_1ee.158d57f4.2d0f9580_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I'm new to this site and don't know if it's an appropriate one for my question.... I've recently moved into a patio home in north central Phx.....There are 3 rose bushes planted inside my patio along a wood fence on the north side of the house....They are very tall and I think maybe have been shooting up their canes so high in order to get sun.....What should I be doing in the way of pruning them....? Thanks for any help Polly M. --part1_1ee.158d57f4.2d0f9580_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I'm new to this site and don't kno= w if it's an appropriate one for my question....

I've recently moved into a patio home in north central Phx.....There are 3 r= ose bushes planted inside my patio along a wood fence on the north sid= e of the house....They are very tall and I think maybe have been shooting up= their canes so high in order to get sun.....What should I be doing in the w= ay of pruning them....?

Thanks for any help

Polly M. --part1_1ee.158d57f4.2d0f9580_boundary-- From watsontl@mindspring.com Tue Dec 16 01:05:40 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 18:05:40 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sweet Acacia roots References: <200312152154.hBFLspF1001634@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000401c3c370$ba4df310$3d08b83f@S0029317241> I wasn't able to find any specific references to sweet acacia roots producing harmful products (a phenomenon called allelopathy, by the way), but did find one regarding a related plant, only it was the root nodule bacteria that allows plants in this family to take up nitrogen from the air that was the trouble maker. So it is possible that something from the roots is causing the problem. It could also be the decay of the roots killed but left behind, since some products of the decay process inhibit seed germination and root development. You could try providing the tree with its own water source, but that may not redirect the roots completely. How do you water the vegetable garden? If you are hand watering or using soaker hoses, a drip system might reduce the amount of excess moisture enough to slow the tree roots. I am experiencing a similar problem due to a chinaberry tree near the vegetable garden. In my case, the tree is going to be removed. A bit drastic, but the solution it provides is at least complete. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, December 15, 2003 2:54 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I have a sweet acacia approximately 10-15 feet away from my vege garden. I noticed that when I was preping the garden for planting that there were alot of roots and because of the smell knew they were from the sweet acacia (and not some fungus, etc). Because that area of my yard is has rock pathways the only area that gets water is the garden area so the tree has taken advantage of the water I give my veg garden and taken over that soil area. I had pulled out most of the roots but my winter garden this year has been unsuccessful. nothing is growing with any vigor and my plants do not have that deep green healthy color, even though I am fertilizing about every two weeks. > I am thinking the roots are either robbing nutrients and such or putting out some kind of chemical that doesn't allow certain plants to grow, any suggestions? > > thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From watsontl@mindspring.com Tue Dec 16 00:43:29 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 17:43:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Tomatoes in Earthboxes References: <5.1.0.14.2.20031214115208.04a73238@ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <003001c3c36d$a0ca4d10$9e30b83f@S0029317241> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_002D_01C3C332.F3869350 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable The most likely cause of the browning you are seeing is something called = tip burn, which is the result of too much salt in the soil around the = roots. Ordinarily I would recommend an occasions heavy watering to = flush the accumulated salts out of the soil of a potted plant, but I am = not at all familiar with an Earth Box, so I'm not sure if this would be = appropriate. How does an Earth Box work? Tom ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Lucy Bradley=20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2003 11:52 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Tomatoes Please Reply to "Ron Dawson" At 03:05 PM 11/10/2003, you wrote: Hi,=20 =20 I am growing some tomatoes in what is called an "Earth Box" and I = noticed the tips of some of the leafs have turned brown (please see = attached photo). I did notice white flies around and was wonder if the = problem is caused by them or ????? =20 Any advice would be appreciated. =20 Ron Dawson 4318 E. Walnut Rd Gilbert, AZ 85297 480 759 3845 rdawson15@cox.net ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an = environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low = desert. "The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not = be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of = Arizona." ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ------=_NextPart_000_002D_01C3C332.F3869350 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
The most likely cause of the browning = you are=20 seeing is something called tip burn, which is the result of too much = salt in the=20 soil around the roots.   Ordinarily I would recommend an = occasions=20 heavy watering to flush the accumulated salts out of the soil of a = potted plant,=20 but I am not at all familiar with an Earth Box, so I'm not sure if this = would be=20 appropriate.   How does an Earth Box work?

Tom

----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Lucy=20 Bradley
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= =20

Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2003 = 11:52=20 AM

Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:=20 Tomatoes

Please Reply to "Ron Dawson" <rdawson15@cox.net>
At = 03:05 PM=20 11/10/2003, you wrote:

Hi,=20

I am growing some tomatoes in what is called an "Earth = Box"=20 and I noticed the tips of some of the leafs have turned brown = (please see=20 attached photo). I did notice white flies around and was wonder if = the=20 problem is caused by them or ?????

Any advice would be=20 appreciated.

Ron Dawson
4318 E. Walnut = Rd
Gilbert, AZ=20 85297
480 759 3845
rdawson15@cox.net
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lucy K. Bradley
Extension = Agent,=20 Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona = Cooperative=20 Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ =20 85040-8807

Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax: = (602)=20 470-8092
email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/
http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens

<= B>Mission=20 of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program
To teach people = to=20 select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible = manner=20 based on research specific to the low desert.

"The=20 opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be = taken as=20 a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of=20 = Arizona."
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~= ~~~~

------=_NextPart_000_002D_01C3C332.F3869350-- From watsontl@mindspring.com Tue Dec 16 00:40:17 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 17:40:17 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sawdust and Manure References: <200312131718.hBDHIZF1011313@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <002101c3c36d$2e3f2e50$9e30b83f@S0029317241> Quantity isn't actually what you need to worry about. The problem with adding sawdust directly to garden soil is that it uses up nitrogen as it decays. (To be precise, the microbes in the soil that break down the sawdust use up nitrogen.) This can leave the garden short on this essential nutrient, which will slow the growth of anything you transplant. The decay of the sawdust may also release compounds that inhibit seed germination. If the manure held enough nitrogen when it was mixed in, you may not need to worry, but to be safe I would add a readily available source of nitrogen (organic or conventional, whichever you prefer) to any plants you put in this soil. I would also wait a couple of weeks before planting any seeds directly. Otherwise, these additions should yield some pretty good soil in the long run. I use such materials by adding them as a topdressing to established plants. By the end of the growing season they have mellowed and decayed enough that you can dig them in without causing problems. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2003 10:18 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I added lots of manure to my garden in the fall, I also added sawdust at the rate of 1 part swadust to 3 parts maure. Over all it added up to about 8in over the whole top of my garden. The manure is 1to 4 years old thesawdust is fresh cut, what I would like to know is did I add to much of eather and is sawdust realy good for my garden I grow vegetables. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From watsontl@mindspring.com Tue Dec 16 00:34:25 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 17:34:25 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200312130142.hBD1gkF1020529@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <001c01c3c36c$5c3bc0d0$9e30b83f@S0029317241> Do you know the botanical name for this plant? All the references I find for desert soapweed are to a species of yucca, and I somehow doubt this is the right plant, if it is related to something from the midwest. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, December 12, 2003 6:42 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I AM HAVING PROBLEMS TRYING TO PROPOGATE THE SEEDS OF THE DESERT SOAP WEED. THE PLANT IS SIMULAR TO THE TYPICAL MIDWEST SOAP WEED THAT IS VERY ATTRACTIVE TO THE MONARCH BUTTERFLY. I HAVE TRIED PLANTING IN SOIL AND PLACING THEM ON A MOIST PAPER TOWEL AND NO LUCK AFTER MANY WEEKS. I NEED HELP! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From GACarmack@aol.com Tue Dec 16 05:12:14 2003 From: GACarmack@aol.com (GACarmack@aol.com) Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 00:12:14 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] sawdust Message-ID: <1cc.160d1394.2d0fee2e@aol.com> -------------------------------1071551533 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I thought sawdust didn't break down and decompose. I thought you should only add very small amounts of it to make compost. -------------------------------1071551533 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I thought sawdust didn't break down and decompose. I thought you sh= ould only add very small amounts of it to make compost. -------------------------------1071551533-- From TylerStorey@aol.com Tue Dec 16 03:53:03 2003 From: TylerStorey@aol.com (TylerStorey@aol.com) Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 22:53:03 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <1c0.12fa85da.2d0fdb9f@aol.com> -------------------------------1071546783 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit There is a plant called Small Soapweed, also called Great Plains Yucca, botanical name Yucca glauca, that ranges from New Mexico up to Southern Alberta, East to Iowa all the way West to Idaho. In some of those areas it survives winter temps well below 0 degrees -- pretty amazing plant. That may well be the one being referred to here. Tyler Also called In a message dated 12/15/2003 8:33:45 PM US Mountain Standard Time, watsontl@mindspring.com writes: Do you know the botanical name for this plant? All the references I find for desert soapweed are to a species of yucca, and I somehow doubt this is the right plant, if it is related to something from the midwest. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, December 12, 2003 6:42 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I AM HAVING PROBLEMS TRYING TO PROPOGATE THE SEEDS OF THE DESERT SOAP WEED. THE PLANT IS SIMULAR TO THE TYPICAL MIDWEST SOAP WEED THAT IS VERY ATTRACTIVE TO THE MONARCH BUTTERFLY. I HAVE TRIED PLANTING IN SOIL AND PLACING THEM ON A MOIST PAPER TOWEL AND NO LUCK AFTER MANY WEEKS. I NEED HELP! -------------------------------1071546783 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

There is a plant called Small Soapweed, also called Great Plains Yucca,= botanical name Yucca glauca, that ranges from New Mexico up to Southern Alb= erta, East to Iowa all the way West to Idaho. In some of those areas i= t survives winter temps well below 0 degrees -- pretty amazing plant. =20= That may well be the one being referred to here.

Tyler

Also called

In a message dated 12/15/2003 8:33:45 PM US Mountain Standard Time, wat= sontl@mindspring.com writes:

Do you know the botanical name for this plant?=    All the references I find
for desert soapweed are to a speci= es of yucca, and I somehow doubt this is
the right plant, if it is relate= d to something from the midwest.

Tom

----- Original Message --= ---
From: <DESERTPATRICK@aol.com>
To: <arid_gardener@Ag.ariz= ona.edu>
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2003 6:42 PM
Subject: [Arid_gar= dener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page

> I AM HAVING PROBLEMS= TRYING TO PROPOGATE THE SEEDS OF THE DESERT SOAP
WEED. THE PLANT IS SIMU= LAR TO THE TYPICAL MIDWEST SOAP WEED THAT IS VERY
ATTRACTIVE TO THE MONAR= CH BUTTERFLY. I HAVE TRIED PLANTING IN SOIL AND
PLACING THEM ON A MOIST P= APER TOWEL AND NO LUCK AFTER MANY WEEKS. I NEED
HELP!
=

-------------------------------1071546783-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Dec 16 14:11:45 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 14:11:45 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] thrips Message-ID: I didn't see a reply to your question regarding thrips on fruit trees. Thrips cause cosmetic damage and usually no control is necessary. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: hokon1@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 09:20:13 -0700 (MST) > >what is the best way to get rid of trips by >spray or other. on fruit trees. > > >i hope i spelled the right way on thebug > >thank you > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Cell phone �switch� rules are taking effect � find out more here. http://special.msn.com/msnbc/consumeradvocate.armx From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Dec 16 14:00:44 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 14:00:44 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] soap weed Message-ID: Desert Patrick, You mention butterflies, so I wonder if the plant you are asking about is a milk weed. Could you give us a description of the plant? Try a search engine such as Google and look for Asclepias. Picture of butterfly milkweed is at: http://www.floridata.com/ref/A/ascl_tub.cfm Linda >From: "Tom & Linda Watson" >To: , >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 17:34:25 -0700 > >Do you know the botanical name for this plant? All the references I find >for desert soapweed are to a species of yucca, and I somehow doubt this is >the right plant, if it is related to something from the midwest. > >Tom > >----- Original Message ----- >From: >To: >Sent: Friday, December 12, 2003 6:42 PM >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > > > I AM HAVING PROBLEMS TRYING TO PROPOGATE THE SEEDS OF THE DESERT SOAP >WEED. THE PLANT IS SIMULAR TO THE TYPICAL MIDWEST SOAP WEED THAT IS VERY >ATTRACTIVE TO THE MONARCH BUTTERFLY. I HAVE TRIED PLANTING IN SOIL AND >PLACING THEM ON A MOIST PAPER TOWEL AND NO LUCK AFTER MANY WEEKS. I NEED >HELP! > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Browse styles for all ages, from the latest looks to cozy weekend wear at MSN Shopping. And check out the beauty products! http://shopping.msn.com From BeverlyFz2@aol.com Tue Dec 16 14:08:16 2003 From: BeverlyFz2@aol.com (BeverlyFz2@aol.com) Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 09:08:16 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mail Message-ID: --part1_b0.42837db7.2d106bd0_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Is the Arid Gardener list down? I haven't had any messages for several days. Thx Beverly --part1_b0.42837db7.2d106bd0_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Is the Arid Gardener list down?&nbs= p; I haven't had any messages for several days.   Thx Beverl= y --part1_b0.42837db7.2d106bd0_boundary-- From BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu Tue Dec 16 18:33:10 2003 From: BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 11:33:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Success with Citrus at January Clinics Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20031216113135.04cb3900@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_10004275==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Mark your calendar Now for Citrus Clinics the last two weeks in January. http://uanews.org/cgi-bin/WebObjects/UANews.woa/5/wa/SRStoryDetails?ArticleID=8368&wosid=N557dlg2y6LfnHRkH3jhEg ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert. "The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona." ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ --=====================_10004275==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Mark your calendar Now for Citrus Clinics the last two weeks in January.

http://uanews.org/cgi-bin/WebObjects/UANews.woa/5/wa/SRStoryDetails?ArticleID=8368&wosid=N557dlg2y6LfnHRkH3jhEg

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807

Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax: (602) 470-8092
email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/
http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens

Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program
To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert.

"The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona."
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

--=====================_10004275==_.ALT-- From jclerm@dakotacom.net Tue Dec 16 16:33:14 2003 From: jclerm@dakotacom.net (Juan-Carlos Lerman) Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 09:33:14 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] I am so sorry! References: <5.1.0.14.2.20031204081919.00b1a3b0@ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3FDF33CA.6171E5DC@dakotacom.net> The pdf file for Oct-Nov journal is missing. and the email address given at the site seems to be incorrect Subject: Returned mail: User unknown Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 09:06:26 -0700 From: Mail Delivery Subsystem To: The original message was received at Tue, 16 Dec 2003 09:06:26 -0700 from breaker.dakotacom.net [66.192.152.146] see returned email below ----- The following addresses had permanent fatal errors ----- (expanded from: ) ----- Transcript of session follows ----- mail.local: unknown name: BradleyL 550 ... User unknown From mjlustgraaf@aol.com Wed Dec 17 16:00:06 2003 From: mjlustgraaf@aol.com (mjlustgraaf@aol.com) Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 09:00:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200312171600.hBHG06F1013714@Ag.arizona.edu> What kind of insecticide is best to use for whiteflies on fruit trees and flowers. m.j.lustgraaf yuma,az From watsontl@mindspring.com Wed Dec 17 04:49:39 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 21:49:39 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] sawdust References: <1cc.160d1394.2d0fee2e@aol.com> Message-ID: <001d01c3c459$2e984390$e120b83f@S0029317241> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001A_01C3C41E.813F0600 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable It will indeed break down, although not very quickly; wood shavings = decompose even more slowly. Composting it rather than adding it = directly to the garden is an excellent idea, one I'd forgotten about in = my first reply. That's how I would use sawdust, if I found myself with = a supply of it. Tom ----- Original Message -----=20 From: GACarmack@aol.com=20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Monday, December 15, 2003 10:12 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] sawdust I thought sawdust didn't break down and decompose. I thought you = should only add very small amounts of it to make compost. ------=_NextPart_000_001A_01C3C41E.813F0600 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
It will indeed break down, although not very quickly; wood shavings = decompose even more slowly.   Composting it rather than adding = it=20 directly to the garden is an excellent idea, one I'd forgotten about in = my first=20 reply.   That's how I would use sawdust, if I found myself = with a=20 supply of it.

Tom

----- Original Message -----
From:=20 GACarmack@aol.com
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= =20

Sent: Monday, December 15, 2003 = 10:12=20 PM

Subject: [Arid_gardener] = sawdust

I thought sawdust didn't break down and = decompose. I=20 thought you should only add very small amounts of it to make compost.=20

------=_NextPart_000_001A_01C3C41E.813F0600-- From rodmcq6@highstream.net Tue Dec 16 23:31:57 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2003 16:31:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning Roses Message-ID: <001a01c3c42c$cd334400$8231db43@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0017_01C3C3F2.1F6AC9E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi Polly, January is the time to prune your roses. Cut them back approximately 50% = making the cut about 1/4 inch above an outside bud then seal the cut = with Elmer's glue to prevent borers from boring into the cane for a = nest. Remove any dead or dying canes and any crossing canes. Then remove = all the leaves and dispose of them. If your roses are climbers they normally will grow taller than hybrid = teas or floribundas. Also if the roses are in partial shade and receive = less than 5 hours of sun light daily they will grow taller reaching for = the sun. If the shade occurs in the afternoon during summer it is a plus = in helping the bushes handle the summer sun. During January most of the several Rose Societies as well as many = nurseries will offer pruning demonstrations on Saturday mornings. Watch = your newspaper for announcements. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian ------=_NextPart_000_0017_01C3C3F2.1F6AC9E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hi Polly,

January is the time to prune your roses. Cut them = back=20 approximately 50% making the cut about 1/4 inch above an outside bud = then seal=20 the cut with Elmer's glue to prevent borers from boring into the cane = for a=20 nest. Remove any dead or dying canes and any crossing canes. Then = remove=20 all the leaves and dispose of them.

If your roses are climbers they normally will grow = taller than=20 hybrid teas or floribundas. Also if the roses are in partial shade and = receive=20 less than 5 hours of sun light daily they will grow taller reaching for = the sun.=20 If the shade occurs in the afternoon during summer it is a plus in = helping the=20 bushes handle the summer sun.

During January most of the several Rose Societies as = well as=20 many nurseries will offer pruning demonstrations on Saturday mornings. = Watch=20 your newspaper for announcements.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick

Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian

------=_NextPart_000_0017_01C3C3F2.1F6AC9E0-- From sbarvian1@cableaz.com Wed Dec 17 16:47:49 2003 From: sbarvian1@cableaz.com (Scott Barvian) Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 09:47:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Kalanchoe plants Message-ID: <003101c3c4bd$84c3e6c0$2824a8c0@lbmelman> At the MG swap meet at Metro-Tech back in October, someone donated a box of cuttings and was kind enough to provide this info with them: "Kalanchoe variation These are all babies from this year. The adult plant gets to two feet high and about a foot wide. Each leaf will grow lots and lots of babies. They fall and cover the ground in a lovely blanket. They currently get early sun and do best in full shade." The cutting I bought is growing very well, much faster than another Kalanchoe called a "panda plant" that I have. For what it's worth, the largest leaves are about the size of the tip of your thumb, and the tips have a reddish tint and are serrated (toothed?). I'm hoping someone will recognize this description - I'm confused about how the plant reproduces. The baby plants grow on the leaves and then fall to the ground? Or do the leaves fall off, and take root as baby plants? Knowing this will influence where I plant it in the spring (in the rocks, in bare soil, etc.). Thanks. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Dec 17 19:33:34 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 19:33:34 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] whiteflies Message-ID: Whiteflies Adult whiteflies are less than 1/16 inch long and covered with a whitish, waxy powder (under a microscope it is apparent their bodies are actually pale yellow). The oval, flattened immatures settle down and feed on the underside of leaves, often creating sticky beads of "honeydew." The most prolific type of whitefly is the sweet potato whitefly. Other species found in Arizona are the ash whitefly and the greenhouse whitefly, which may require special controls. Whitefly Immatures Although when the numbers are high in the fall sweet potato whiteflies appear to be on every single plant in the yard, they tend to feed and develop on a more limited number of plants. Hibiscus, lantana, and annual herbs and vegetables seem to be preferred hosts. Target control measures at these types of plants. To avoid problems, delay planting fall vegetables until temperatures begin to decline and whitefly numbers drop. http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening/controlinsects.html If damage does begin to occur, first determine which insects are causing the problem. If you can't tell, bring the critters and leaves their attacking in to the Extension Plant Clinic for free identification. When you've determined what the pest is, don't just spray with chemicals. Try a non-chemical approach to control. Knock off and kill larger grasshoppers and caterpillars. Pick off damaged leaves containing leafminers. Wash off smaller soft-bodied insects (aphids, whiteflies, mealybugs) with a strong spray from your garden hose. A soap spray works great too! Just mix 1/4 teaspoon of liquid dish washing detergent in a gallon of water. Spray both the upper and lower surface of leaves. http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening/news/articles/15.5.html A homemade spray for whiteflies and scales: mix one cup vegetable oil plus one tablespoon dish detergent (regular, not concentrated, and not citrus based) in a pint jar and shake. Add one to two teaspoons of this mixture to one cup of water in a spray bottle and spray the underside of leaves to dripping. Always spray a few leaves and check 24 hours latter for leaf burn before spraying entire plant (Courtesy Dr. George Butler). For a complete description of whiteflies, see: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/whitefly.htm Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: mjlustgraaf@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 09:00:06 -0700 (MST) > >What kind of insecticide is best to use for whiteflies on fruit trees and >flowers. > m.j.lustgraaf > yuma,az > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Tired of slow downloads? Compare online deals from your local high-speed providers now. https://broadband.msn.com From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Wed Dec 17 18:12:06 2003 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 11:12:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] White flies References: <200312171600.hBHG06F1013714@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <001401c3c4c9$4882ad20$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> White flies ruin our plants by sucking the juice right out of them. First they cut into the main vein of the leaf, and drink all the nutrients themselves, (instead of the plant having them). Then they secrete a sticky, sappy substance that allows mold and fungus to adhere to the leaf They also cause a "stippling" effect on the leaves and that is how you can tell you have white fly damage (if you see the stippling and little flies fluttering around. They USUALLY only get really bad on vegetables etc. when the weather gets really hot for a long time (i.e. the end of the season ). In other words the plants are usually strong enough to fend off some white fly damage until it gets too hot for them. White flies are predominant in summer; they go away in winter. There are a number of defenses we can use: � Rinse the underside of the leaves with a powerful stream of water, it this does not work, you can try using soapy water on the plants.. � Put water out for them in a dish or pail. When they go to drink they drown . � Place yellow paper plates with Vaseline on them around your plants. They will be attracted to the color, and then trapped by the Vaseline Scott From PERFLOWERS@aol.com Wed Dec 17 22:14:43 2003 From: PERFLOWERS@aol.com (PERFLOWERS@aol.com) Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 17:14:43 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Old Fertilizer Message-ID: <107.2a08924b.2d122f53@aol.com> --part1_107.2a08924b.2d122f53_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I am cleaning o9t my garage and ran across some old fertilizer. It is Champion "Magic Bloom" - 10-50-5. This stuff is anywhere from 10 to 20 years old. It is a turquoise color, very small granular form. The plastic bag it is in looks fine. Is it safe to use on my plants? Is it going to do my plants any good to use it? Val --part1_107.2a08924b.2d122f53_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I am cleaning o9t my garage and ran= across some old fertilizer. It is Champion "Magic Bloom" - 10-50-5.&n= bsp; This stuff is anywhere from 10 to 20 years old. It is a turquoise= color, very small granular form. The plastic bag it is in looks fine.= Is it safe to use on my plants? Is it going to do my plants any= good to use it?

Val --part1_107.2a08924b.2d122f53_boundary-- From mhills@seedsolutions.com Wed Dec 17 18:53:57 2003 From: mhills@seedsolutions.com (Mike Hills) Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 11:53:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Kalanchoe plants In-Reply-To: <003101c3c4bd$84c3e6c0$2824a8c0@lbmelman> Message-ID: <001a01c3c4cf$20c23a20$0500a8c0@RSIOAQ3YCFIW63> Scott There are many different species and varieties of Kalanchoe, and I do not recognize the exact one you mention. Maybe another Master Gardener will recall that plant from the sale event and reply. But I do grow a number of different Kalanchoes in my yard, and can answer your questions on propagation. Some of these plants are very prolific and make many babies, that can almost take over an area - BUT they are easy to pull and remove, and if planted in gravel cover, many of them never root in once they fall so this is not usually a problem. The different Kalanchoes can be started from stem cuttings, as well as the babies that you describe in the note you received with your plant. Since this is a succulent, the cut stems should be allowed to dry and callous over for several days, prior to placing them in a fast draining potting mix. I would keep the new plant in a cool, shaded part of the yard and water only lightly until you see new growth - several weeks - that indicates the plant has rooted. If you do not callous the cutting and if you water to much, the cuttings will often rot before they have a chance to root. Many people like to remove a mature leaf from a plant and lay it on the soil, to stimulate new baby plants to form at the edges of the leaf. Depending on the species of Kalanchoe, some leaves will also root at the petiole, or leaf stem, and form a new plant there. As the new plants form, their roots grow down into the soil surface and once rooted well, and a little larger you can remove each new plant and pot up separately. Other people wait until the new plants form at the leaf edges of older leaves, while the leaves ae still attached to the mother plant. Once these small plantlets have roots and are a little larger, you can pull them off the mother leaf and plant them in their own pots. The different species of Kalanchoe differ widely in how prolific of reproducers they are. Keep in mind that Kalanchoes are succulents and fast draining soil is required, whether you plant them in the ground or in pots. If you have a lot of interest in Kalanchoe and other succulents, you may want to attend a meeting of the Central Arizona Cactus and Succulent Society, or check out their booth at the State Fairgrounds in January at the Home and Garden Show. I'm sure that a member of their group could indentify your plant if you brought one to a meeting. http://www.centralarizonacactus.org Hope this is helpful, Mike Hills Master Gardener, Maricopa County -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Scott Barvian Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2003 9:48 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Kalanchoe plants At the MG swap meet at Metro-Tech back in October, someone donated a box of cuttings and was kind enough to provide this info with them: "Kalanchoe variation These are all babies from this year. The adult plant gets to two feet high and about a foot wide. Each leaf will grow lots and lots of babies. They fall and cover the ground in a lovely blanket. They currently get early sun and do best in full shade." The cutting I bought is growing very well, much faster than another Kalanchoe called a "panda plant" that I have. For what it's worth, the largest leaves are about the size of the tip of your thumb, and the tips have a reddish tint and are serrated (toothed?). I'm hoping someone will recognize this description - I'm confused about how the plant reproduces. The baby plants grow on the leaves and then fall to the ground? Or do the leaves fall off, and take root as baby plants? Knowing this will influence where I plant it in the spring (in the rocks, in bare soil, etc.). Thanks. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net Thu Dec 18 04:36:42 2003 From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 21:36:42 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Old Fertilizer References: <107.2a08924b.2d122f53@aol.com> Message-ID: <005d01c3c520$dfa12090$726a480c@olin> It shouldn't be unsafe. Nitrogen is pretty unstable and it will probably have dissipated if the bag wasn't sealed. . ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2003 3:14 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Old Fertilizer > I am cleaning o9t my garage and ran across some old fertilizer. It is > Champion "Magic Bloom" - 10-50-5. This stuff is anywhere from 10 to 20 years old. > It is a turquoise color, very small granular form. The plastic bag it is in > looks fine. Is it safe to use on my plants? Is it going to do my plants any > good to use it? > > Val > From alfink2001@aol.com Thu Dec 18 17:43:02 2003 From: alfink2001@aol.com (alfink2001@aol.com) Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2003 10:43:02 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200312181743.hBIHh2F1028121@Ag.arizona.edu> I have 30 citrus trees in my back yard all around 25 years old. This year the quantity of grapefruit, navels, Arizona sweets, and tangelos is large, but the size of each fruit is relatively small compared to previous years. I notice in driving around the Phoenix area that lots of the grapefruit trees have fruit the size of oranges; small. What do you think are the factors that cause this phenomenon? Thanks. Al From sspri@cox.net Thu Dec 18 21:04:43 2003 From: sspri@cox.net (sspri@cox.net) Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2003 14:04:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200312182104.hBIL4hF1009202@Ag.arizona.edu> My palo verde has areas of the bark that appear to have a loose deposit that may be related to an insect penetratiing the bark. Is there such an insect and what, if any, treatment is recommended? Steve From mhills@seedsolutions.com Thu Dec 18 19:49:34 2003 From: mhills@seedsolutions.com (Mike Hills) Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2003 12:49:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Old Fertilizer In-Reply-To: <005d01c3c520$dfa12090$726a480c@olin> Message-ID: <003701c3c5a0$10dd1770$0500a8c0@RSIOAQ3YCFIW63> Val Olin mirrored my own thoughts. My company deals with many fertilizer firms, plus many of our professional turf customers also end up with "old fertilizer" lying around unused. Many of them deal with similar issues on old fertilizer stocks. As long as it is just straight fertilizer, with no herbicides, insecticides or fungicides included, then it should certainly be safe to apply now. Some of the components can dissipate over time such as the nitrogen, but the Phosphorous and Potassium components should still be in the bag. If it was me, I would apply it to my garden on some flowering plants, that don't need a high nitrogen content, but can benefit from the P and K elements. Roses, bulbs, annual blooms, wildflowers, etc. Also could be applied to your lawn to benefit its health - if you have ryegrass, it will strengthen the roots and crown tissues, and even if just dormant bermudagrass it will improve growth & recovery next spring if you apply it now. Low N, high P & K fertilizers are often sold as "turf winterizer" products that work quite well in the Low Desert. mike hills -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of olin Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2003 9:37 PM To: PERFLOWERS@aol.com; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Old Fertilizer It shouldn't be unsafe. Nitrogen is pretty unstable and it will probably have dissipated if the bag wasn't sealed. . ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2003 3:14 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Old Fertilizer > I am cleaning o9t my garage and ran across some old fertilizer. It is > Champion "Magic Bloom" - 10-50-5. This stuff is anywhere from 10 to 20 years old. > It is a turquoise color, very small granular form. The plastic bag it is in > looks fine. Is it safe to use on my plants? Is it going to do my plants any > good to use it? > > Val > _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From jeanealmartin@juno.com Fri Dec 19 16:57:33 2003 From: jeanealmartin@juno.com (Wilbur N Martin) Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2003 11:57:33 -0500 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Scheffelara Message-ID: <20031219.115734.-251555.2.jeanealmartin@juno.com> Gentlemen, I have a big scheffelara that is getting leggy & I would love to cut out the leggy part & repot it. Is it possible to do this & do I have to root it first? I would greatly appreciate any info you can give me. Thanking you in advance, I am, Jean Martin & my e-mail address is: jeanealmartin@juno.com From tburke7506@aol.com Sat Dec 20 20:41:49 2003 From: tburke7506@aol.com (tburke7506@aol.com) Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2003 13:41:49 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200312202041.hBKKfnF1021628@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a bubbler system. How long and how often should I water in the Winter, Spring and Summer for trees and shrubs? Thank you. Tburke From susanoram@cox.net Sat Dec 20 22:53:42 2003 From: susanoram@cox.net (susanoram@cox.net) Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2003 15:53:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200312202253.hBKMrgF1029555@Ag.arizona.edu> I have planted all native shrubs and trees in my backyard and have installed bubblers to them. I have killed all the turf in the yard. I thought I wanted to install gravel but now, due to heat considerations as well as pets, I am having second thoughts. What else might I do that would be environmentally and pet friendly with the open spaces in my yard? From gtodell@earthlink.net Sat Dec 20 00:44:14 2003 From: gtodell@earthlink.net (Toby Odell) Date: Fri, 19 Dec 2003 17:44:14 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Flood Irrigation Question Message-ID: Hi, I moved to north Mesa from California earlier this year. My property has quite a number of citrus trees, primarily grapefruit, and most of the citrus trees area is irrigated via Roosevelt Water District flood irrigation. Although this is a great and inexpensive means of irrigation, much of my property is raised and this forces me to use city water for irrigating the other 80% of my vegetation! If possible I would like to sink a shallow well or cistern in the path of the flood water so that I can capture and use this water to irrigate the rest of my property. My thought would be to place a pump within the well/cistern which would then be attached to my automatic irrigation system. That system has the capacity to hook up to an external pump. My question is how to accomplish this assuming it can be done. I already know the city would be pleased to know I would be using flood water rather than city water to irrigate. Can anyone direct me to people or companies here that do this or can provide me with more answers on how to accomplish this? Many thanks in advance. Toby From DESERTPATRICK@AOL.COM Sun Dec 21 15:03:56 2003 From: DESERTPATRICK@AOL.COM (DESERTPATRICK@AOL.COM) Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2003 08:03:56 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200312211503.hBLF3uF1012282@Ag.arizona.edu> I ASKED A QUESTION A COUPLE WEEKS AGO BUT I HAD THE WRONG NAME. LETS TRY AGAIN. THE PLANT IN QUESTION IS DESERT MILKWEED. THE BOT. NAME IS ASCLEPIAS SUBLATA. MY PROBLEM IS THAT I CAN NOT GET THE SEEDS TO GERMINATE. I TRIED SOIL AND A WET PAPER TOWEL. ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS? From arlandrich@aol.com Mon Dec 22 20:21:03 2003 From: arlandrich@aol.com (arlandrich@aol.com) Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2003 13:21:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200312222021.hBMKL3F1024769@Ag.arizona.edu> Are there any tomato varieties that can be grown in the Chandler area that will produce a sweet eating tomato, either outdoors or in a pot? Thank you, Rich From jamie123@bigfoot.com Sun Dec 21 16:00:51 2003 From: jamie123@bigfoot.com (Jamie the Gardner) Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2003 09:00:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200312202253.hBKMrgF1029555@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: I have two dogs, one 60 pounds and one 12 pounds. My backyard is completely rock (I believe two inch screen). Within a few weeks of being exposed to the backyard, both dogs seemed to become completely acclimated to the rock. Now they run around as if there was nothing to it. I believe their pads must have toughened up. -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of susanoram@cox.net Sent: Saturday, December 20, 2003 3:54 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have planted all native shrubs and trees in my backyard and have installed bubblers to them. I have killed all the turf in the yard. I thought I wanted to install gravel but now, due to heat considerations as well as pets, I am having second thoughts. What else might I do that would be environmentally and pet friendly with the open spaces in my yard? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From mhills@seedsolutions.com Mon Dec 22 19:33:17 2003 From: mhills@seedsolutions.com (Mike Hills) Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2003 12:33:17 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Xeriscape Design Groundcover In-Reply-To: <200312202253.hBKMrgF1029555@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <001601c3c8c2$73d40030$0500a8c0@RSIOAQ3YCFIW63> Susan - as a fellow pet owner, with xeriscape plantings in my own back yard, just wanted to clarify a few things for you to consider. 1) a gravel layer can actually cool and shade the soil and roots, and also helps to conserve soil moisture, acting as a mulch. A gravel layer is far superior to bare dirt for these benefits, plus gravel is less likely to be tracked in the house by the animals. 2) You may get some reflected heat from the gravel, versus a turf area - and this may result in some increased water use in the yard plantings - but this is usually only a minor increase, compared to bare soil. And, you may have already offset this with your plantings of desert adapted shade trees. 3) For the benefit of the pets' feet, stick with the "1/2 inch minus" when you order gravel for that yard - this smaller size gravel is easier on your pets' feet, and also on your own bare feet, when compared to the larger gravel sizes. 4) If you have children, and also to benefit the pets, you may still consider putting in a small usable size turf area. If turf is planted properly and watered properly, it is not as much of a water waster as people assume. Improperly planted and overwatered turf does waste water, but there are many varieties of bermudagrass from seed or from sod, that can grow here and thrive on reduced water, if the soil is prepared properly in advance, with good drainage and good amendments. Also, it is important to design and install a turf area size that fits your household needs - rather than planting the wall-to-wall lawn areas in older neighborhoods, where they have more lawn than they use. More information on turfgrass choices and care can be accessed at http://ag.arizona.edu/turf/tt.htm 5) Research the mature sizes of your new plantings also - you may find that you have a lot less "bare space" as the plants reach their mature sizes. See your plant choices at botanical gardens, or check this website for details on size. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/plants/plants-a.htm You can also check with your local nurseries for the series of booklets they distribute for AMWUA - the Arizona Municipal Water Users Association - the books show details and photos of recommended xeriscape plants, plus some of the books have design tips to help plan your yard ( http://www.amwua.org/ ). This agency will have a display booth and information at the upcoming Home & Garden Show at the State Fairgrounds in Phoenix January 9-10-11, plus the Master Gardeners and many area gardening clubs will also be there if you have some questions to ask in person. ALSO - couple of things to consider before you proceed further. * Visit a couple of different area botanical gardens ( http://www.amwua.org/xscp-demogardens.htm ) to look around and see how things are laid out and to get some of your own design juices starting to flow. Desert Botanical Garden - Phoenix ( www.dbg.org ), the Xeriscape Demo Gardens at the Public library in Glendale ( http://gecko.gc.maricopa.edu/glendalelibrary/ ), Boyce Thompson Arboretum - Superior ( http://cals.arizona.edu/BTA/ ), Tucson Botanical Garden, etc. Even come by the Marciopa County Extension office and check out the xeriscape plantings around the buildings, on The Interpretive Trail ( http://cals.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/intrail.htm ). * Try taking a class or two to get some yard design and layout ides. The Desert Botanical Garden in Phoenix has a great series of classes - small fees involved, but excellent teachers and takehome materials ( www.dbg.org ). The Master Gardener Program in Marciopa County also offers a series of gardening classes to the public - details on these reasonably priced classes are available by calling 602-470-8086 ext. 301 and leave a message with your mailing address, that your are interested in receiving information on the Public Classes schedule. I hope that some of this is helpful in your quest. Other than turf, there are not a lot of choices of plants here that can provide a ground cover that you and your pets can walk on. Maybe some of the above will give you some new ideas. Mike Hills Master Gardener, Maricopa County ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of susanoram@cox.net Sent: Saturday, December 20, 2003 3:54 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have planted all native shrubs and trees in my backyard and have installed bubblers to them. I have killed all the turf in the yard. I thought I wanted to install gravel but now, due to heat considerations as well as pets, I am having second thoughts. What else might I do that would be environmentally and pet friendly with the open spaces in my yard? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From LBradley@copper.net Mon Dec 22 02:53:27 2003 From: LBradley@copper.net (Lucy Bradley) Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2003 19:53:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] prickly pear cactus which has white sticky substance on the paddles Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20031221194857.01f7ad40@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_1887454==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Please respond to Elaine Thomas< jrtandmet@aol.com> ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: jrtandmet@aol.com To: webmaster@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: Comment from the College site A new comment has been posted to the College general site Individual: Elaine Thomas Email: jrtandmet@aol.com City: Scottsdale State: Arizona Country: USA Comment: What should I do with my prickly pear cactus which has white sticky substance on the paddles?Thank you. --=====================_1887454==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

Please respond to Elaine Thomas< jrtandmet@aol.com>

---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: jrtandmet@aol.com
To: webmaster@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: Comment from the College site

A new comment has been posted to the College general site

Individual: Elaine Thomas
Email: jrtandmet@aol.com
City: Scottsdale State: Arizona
Country: USA
Comment: What should I do with my prickly pear cactus which has white sticky substance on the paddles?Thank you.
--=====================_1887454==_.ALT-- From bsgasta@aol.com Mon Dec 22 21:16:45 2003 From: bsgasta@aol.com (bsgasta@aol.com) Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2003 14:16:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200312222116.hBMLGjF1003702@Ag.arizona.edu> Dear Professors: I have a friend that has a 1-1/2 year old, 24" box, installed Texas Mountain-Laurel, Sophora secundiflora, that is not doing particularly well. Minor leaf development, little growth, etc. Are there any unique problems for this tree in this, the Phoenix area? Thank you for your help, Bill Gasta Surprise, AZ 623-556-1394 From ohlucy@att.net Tue Dec 23 01:35:48 2003 From: ohlucy@att.net (by way of Lucy Bradley ) Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2003 18:35:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] [MG] How to get rid of Cocheanella without Pesticides Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20031222183503.046c4c70@ag.arizona.edu> Those little critters reek havoc on my opuntias...I've hosed them off so many times I've lost plants from too much water...wiping off is no better, I just end up with too many spikes in my hands...any suggestions would be appreciated. Many thanks. Lucy _______________________________________________ Maricopa-mg mailing list Maricopa-mg@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/maricopa-mg From watsontl@mindspring.com Tue Dec 23 15:59:01 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 08:59:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sophora References: <200312222116.hBMLGjF1003702@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <009301c3c96d$af71b9b0$0f09b83f@S0029317241> There are no unique problems for the species that I've ever heard of. And there are, unfortunately, any number of things that could be wrong, resulting in retarded growth. Can you tell us how much water the tree gets, and how often? Is it being fertilized in any way? Any information on what is being done to maintain the plant would help us suggest solutions. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, December 22, 2003 2:16 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Dear Professors: > I have a friend that has a 1-1/2 year old, 24" box, installed Texas Mountain-Laurel, Sophora secundiflora, that is not doing particularly well. Minor leaf development, little growth, etc. Are there any unique problems for this tree in this, the Phoenix area? > > Thank you for your help, > > Bill Gasta > Surprise, AZ > 623-556-1394 > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From watsontl@mindspring.com Tue Dec 23 15:56:23 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 08:56:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200312211503.hBLF3uF1012282@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <008c01c3c96d$5195dce0$0f09b83f@S0029317241> Your earlier mention of monarch butterflies made me wonder if this was the plant you have in mind. Many desert plants have seeds that are resistant to germination, which keeps them from germinating prematurely after a light rain. I have often been able to break this strong dormancy by soaking the seeds in water, anything from overnight to over several days. I can't find any specifics on what these seeds would need to encourage germination, but this is what I would be trying if faced with your situation: 1) Soak the seed for at least 24 hours, changing the water at least once (and as completely as possible) during that period. If there's a germination inhibitor in the seed coat, there's a good chance this treatment will remove it. 2) Plant the seeds in a loose, well-drained mix (I'd use 50/50 perlite and peat moss) and keep it moist, but not soaked. 3) Be patient! I've had seeds from desert plants take up to 8 weeks to germinate. It's easy to time things according to ordinary garden plants, but that would be a mistake. There are plants that need light to germinate, and plants that need to be kept in the dark. When dealing with a semi-domesticated species like this, I put half of them under my seed starting lights, and half in an area that gets only dim light (enough to keep from bumping into things as you walk around). If one set does better than the other, you have gained another valuable bit of information. With luck, of course, someone else out there has actually germinated this species, and can give you more specific instructions. Good luck, and keep us posted on your results! Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, December 21, 2003 8:03 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I ASKED A QUESTION A COUPLE WEEKS AGO BUT I HAD THE WRONG NAME. LETS TRY AGAIN. THE PLANT IN QUESTION IS DESERT MILKWEED. THE BOT. NAME IS ASCLEPIAS SUBLATA. MY PROBLEM IS THAT I CAN NOT GET THE SEEDS TO GERMINATE. I TRIED SOIL AND A WET PAPER TOWEL. ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From watsontl@mindspring.com Tue Dec 23 15:37:38 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 08:37:38 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tomato Varieties References: <200312222021.hBMKL3F1024769@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <008701c3c96a$b2ee3da0$0f09b83f@S0029317241> The most popular varieties of tomatoes in our region are the Early Girl and Sweet 100 hybrids. Most people would not consider the Early Girl especially sweet, but that's a matter of taste. (I prefer tomatoes with a bit of acid bite to them.) Sweet 100 is a cherry type that can be a heavy producer, and has a flavor that is definitely on the sweet side. Most tomato varieties can be grown here, but getting them to produce is the trick. The reason the suggestions above are so popular is that they are 'short season' varieties, and when planted at the right time, will produce tomatoes before the summer's heat makes fruit set impossible. (Our hot summer kills tomato pollen, so even thought they bloom all summer, not much comes of it.) If you want to experiment with other varieties, pay attention to the days listed to potential harvest. Stay on the low side of 70 days if at all possible (less than 60 would be even better.) Unfortunately, Early Girl and Sweet 100 are indeterminant tomatoes, which means they keep growing until something stops them (such as cold weather). The advantage is that they keep flowering and setting fruit all along (and although this won't count for much in hot weather, if you can keep them alive through summer, they start producing fruit again for a while in the fall). This makes them very difficult to manage in pots because they can take up an enormous amount of space. I once pulled an old Early Girl out of the vegetable garden and found that, when untangled, the plant was just shy of 12 feet long! There are 'patio' types that are meant for container growing, and these are determinant tomatoes, which tend to flower all at once, set a crop, and then be done. Generally a one shot thing, early in the summer. So I would recommend the above two varieties, grown in the ground, not pots, with perhaps some shade cloth over them as the fruit starts to turn red to prevent sunscald (which ruins the fruit.) If containers are the way you need to go, check the local nursery for 'patio' or determinant (bush) types that mature between 55 and 70 days. Best of luck! Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, December 22, 2003 1:21 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Are there any tomato varieties that can be > grown in the Chandler area that will produce > a sweet eating tomato, either outdoors or in > a pot? > Thank you, > > Rich > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Dec 23 13:51:31 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 13:51:31 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] prickly pear cactus which has white sticky substance on the paddles Message-ID: What you are describing sounds like cochineal scale, a small red insect that produces the cushiony white protective coating you see to protect itself. First, try washing all the white materail off with a strong spray of water. If that doessdn't work, I have been successful in treating cochineal scale on cactus by mixing 1 teaspoon of dish liquid with one quart of water in a spray bottle. Spray every area of white until you can see the small red insect. Wait a few minutes and then rinse the cholla with fresh water. You may need to do this 2-3 times at intervals of 5-7 days. Linda Drew Master Gardener >Individual: Elaine Thomas >Email: jrtandmet@aol.com >City: Scottsdale State: Arizona >Country: USA >Comment: What should I do with my prickly pear cactus which has white >sticky substance on the paddles?Thank you. _________________________________________________________________ Have fun customizing MSN Messenger � learn how here! http://www.msnmessenger-download.com/tracking/reach_customize From mhills@seedsolutions.com Tue Dec 23 19:20:32 2003 From: mhills@seedsolutions.com (Mike Hills) Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 12:20:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Asclepias seed germination In-Reply-To: <008c01c3c96d$5195dce0$0f09b83f@S0029317241> Message-ID: <002501c3c989$d6b933b0$0500a8c0@RSIOAQ3YCFIW63> Patrick - one other thought to consider. Many desert seeds have a hard seed coat or dormancy chemicals - both of which prevent the seed coming up until a good rainfall washes the seed away from the mother plant, to a better place to germinate. Part of this heavy process can also benefit the seeds by washing out the natural dormancy chemicals, or scratching the seed along the gravel as the seeds wash away from the mother plant, to wear a break in the hard seed coat. I'm not sure about your Asclepias specifically, but I would guess that these may be some of the problems with your attempts. So, another suggestion to supplement the information from Tom Watson. Definitely try the water pre-soaking method. AND ON SOME OF THE SEEDS - add 2-3 tablespoons common white VINEGAR to your soaking water. The vinegar is acidic and the acid solution will help wear through the seed coat, if a hard seed coat is the cause preventing germination. Seed planting depth and light/non-light needs are also common issues with seed germination, as Tom explained. Many times a seed should be right on the surface where it gets light to stimulate germination - bermudagrass is a classic example of this. Other seeds need to be buried and should not get any sunlight for best results - often planting 2-3 times the diameter of the seed. Since we do not know the specifics on your plant, you should try both methods, with both water-soaked and vinegar-washed seed. LAST SUGGESTION - I've been told that the Asclepias are usually propagated by division of older clumps, or by cuttings. This is a succulent, so be sure that any cuttings or divided pieces are allowed to heal over or callous in the open air, protected from direct sunlight, for a few days before you stick them in a fast-draining soil to root and establish. Once you see some new growth, it is usually a good indication that new roots have formed and you have a new plant. Use of a rooting powder available at many garden centers, can also benefit starting new cuttings of many plants. Good Luck - please report back on your success, and let our list know what worked or did not work for you. Mike Hills -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Tom & Linda Watson Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2003 8:56 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu; DESERTPATRICK@aol.com Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Your earlier mention of monarch butterflies made me wonder if this was the plant you have in mind. Many desert plants have seeds that are resistant to germination, which keeps them from germinating prematurely after a light rain. I have often been able to break this strong dormancy by soaking the seeds in water, anything from overnight to over several days. I can't find any specifics on what these seeds would need to encourage germination, but this is what I would be trying if faced with your situation: 1) Soak the seed for at least 24 hours, changing the water at least once (and as completely as possible) during that period. If there's a germination inhibitor in the seed coat, there's a good chance this treatment will remove it. 2) Plant the seeds in a loose, well-drained mix (I'd use 50/50 perlite and peat moss) and keep it moist, but not soaked. 3) Be patient! I've had seeds from desert plants take up to 8 weeks to germinate. It's easy to time things according to ordinary garden plants, but that would be a mistake. There are plants that need light to germinate, and plants that need to be kept in the dark. When dealing with a semi-domesticated species like this, I put half of them under my seed starting lights, and half in an area that gets only dim light (enough to keep from bumping into things as you walk around). If one set does better than the other, you have gained another valuable bit of information. With luck, of course, someone else out there has actually germinated this species, and can give you more specific instructions. Good luck, and keep us posted on your results! Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, December 21, 2003 8:03 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I ASKED A QUESTION A COUPLE WEEKS AGO BUT I HAD THE WRONG NAME. LETS TRY AGAIN. THE PLANT IN QUESTION IS DESERT MILKWEED. THE BOT. NAME IS ASCLEPIAS SUBLATA. MY PROBLEM IS THAT I CAN NOT GET THE SEEDS TO GERMINATE. I TRIED SOIL AND A WET PAPER TOWEL. ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From mhills@seedsolutions.com Tue Dec 23 19:31:45 2003 From: mhills@seedsolutions.com (Mike Hills) Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 12:31:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sophora In-Reply-To: <009301c3c96d$af71b9b0$0f09b83f@S0029317241> Message-ID: <002601c3c98b$6777afc0$0500a8c0@RSIOAQ3YCFIW63> Bill - one additional thought on your Texas Mountain Laurel. I have always had several of these in my own yard, and like to plant them in friend and family's yards also. This is a very slow growing species, and usually the first couple of years after planting it is especially slow developing new shoots and branches, while the root system establishes. My 8 year old Sophora is only 8 feet tall - it took 3 years from a 2 foot tall 1-gallon plant before it even grew another foot. You can sometimes force it to grow faster with extra fertilizer and water, but the growth may not be healthy. Also, many times a boxed tree or shrub will take longer to establish new roots and start growing again. As long as your friend is providing adequate water at the dripline, where the new roots are growing, just be patient. Especially if the plant looks healthy, with some new leaves growing. You might want to check on how deeply they are watering it, and check the placement of the irrigation dripper - many plant installers stick the dripper up against the tree trunk which does no good for the plant. Move the dripper out to the line where the leaves and branches are located, and check that enough water is being applied to soak in deep enough for the roots to use. Tom's request for additional details on the curent water and fertiliser applications will be helpful in making further suggestions. mike hills -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Tom & Linda Watson Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2003 8:59 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu; bsgasta@aol.com Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Sophora There are no unique problems for the species that I've ever heard of. And there are, unfortunately, any number of things that could be wrong, resulting in retarded growth. Can you tell us how much water the tree gets, and how often? Is it being fertilized in any way? Any information on what is being done to maintain the plant would help us suggest solutions. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, December 22, 2003 2:16 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Dear Professors: > I have a friend that has a 1-1/2 year old, 24" box, installed Texas Mountain-Laurel, Sophora secundiflora, that is not doing particularly well. Minor leaf development, little growth, etc. Are there any unique problems for this tree in this, the Phoenix area? > > Thank you for your help, > > Bill Gasta > Surprise, AZ > 623-556-1394 > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From marshastin@yahoo.com Wed Dec 24 18:41:08 2003 From: marshastin@yahoo.com (MARSHA) Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 10:41:08 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] unsubscribe me!! In-Reply-To: <5.1.0.14.2.20031204081919.00b1a3b0@ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20031224184108.21840.qmail@web11106.mail.yahoo.com> --0-781742644-1072291268=:20660 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii My name has mistakenly been subscribed to the arid_gardener list. Please take me off immediately! Marshastin@yahoo.com Lucy Bradley wrote:Greetings, If your name has mistakenly been subscribed to the arid_gardener list please let us know and we will take you off immediately! You can just hit reply to this message. Sorry for the inconvenience! Lucy Bradley Date: Tue, 02 Dec 2003 11:23:10 -0700 To: bradleyl@Ag.arizona.edu From: Robert MacArthur Subject: Arid Gardener List Lucy, We screwed up and erased the Arid Gardener List - we restored it but we had to add back in some old names that were deleted. Can you take a look at it and tell us any you know we should get rid of? Thanks, and sorry for the mess - Robert MacArthur 222 Forbes University of Arizona Tucson, Az. 85721 520 - 621-2489 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert. "The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona." ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ --0-781742644-1072291268=:20660 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

My name has mistakenly been subscribed to the arid_gardener list. Please take me off immediately! Marshastin@yahoo.com

Lucy Bradley <BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu> wrote:

Greetings,

If your name has mistakenly been subscribed to the arid_gardener list please let us know and we will take you off immediately!
You can just hit reply to this message.

Sorry for the inconvenience!

Lucy Bradley

Date: Tue, 02 Dec 2003 11:23:10 -0700
To: bradleyl@Ag.arizona.edu
From: Robert MacArthur
Subject: Arid Gardener List

Lucy,

We screwed up and erased the Arid Gardener List - we restored it but we had to add back in some old names that were deleted. Can you take a look at it and tell us any you know we should get rid of? Thanks, and sorry for the mess - <SNIP>

Robert MacArthur
222 Forbes
University of Arizona
Tucson, Az. 85721
520 - 621-2489

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807

Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax: (602) 470-8092
email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/
http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens

Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program
To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert.

"The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona."
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

--0-781742644-1072291268=:20660-- From rbets00@aol.com Thu Dec 25 04:05:50 2003 From: rbets00@aol.com (rbets00@aol.com) Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 21:05:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200312250405.hBP45oF1002651@Ag.arizona.edu> I go north May to Oct.what can I plant that will survive until I get back? Don't have any one to water.I did plant several AGAVE,GREEN AND YELLOW EDGED.WILL THEY SURVIVE WITH ONLY RAIN WATER UNIL i GET BACK? i MUST HAVE SOMETHING IN THE GARDEN!! tHANK YOU,bETS00 From marshastin@yahoo.com Wed Dec 24 18:51:47 2003 From: marshastin@yahoo.com (MARSHA) Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 10:51:47 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ficus tree disease In-Reply-To: <003e01c3ba04$08fb7a80$6b01a8c0@youro0kwkw9jwc> Message-ID: <20031224185147.96742.qmail@web11108.mail.yahoo.com> --0-1184637426-1072291907=:96154 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii UNSUBSCRIBE FROM YOUR LIST Jean Twidwell wrote:Hello, We recently removed a number of 20 year old Ficus trees that had been hedged as long as I can remember. We were told they had some disease; one actually died. Our landscaper told us that there was some disease in the valley attacking ficus trees. I would like to verify this information and if it is true learn the name of the disease. I'm somewhat concerned that the landscaper brought the disease to our park in Apache Junction via his cutting tools. Do you think that is a possibility? Thank you, JeanSciFi@mchsi.com --0-1184637426-1072291907=:96154 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

UNSUBSCRIBE FROM YOUR LIST

Jean Twidwell <JeanSciFi@mchsi.com> wrote:

Hello,

We recently removed a number of 20 year old Ficus trees that had been hedged as long as I can remember. We were told they had some disease; one actually died. Our landscaper told us that there was some disease in the valley attacking ficus trees. I would like to verify this information and if it is true learn the name of the disease. I'm somewhat concerned that the landscaper brought the disease to our park in Apache Junction via his cutting tools. Do you think that is a possibility?

Thank you, JeanSciFi@mchsi.com

--0-1184637426-1072291907=:96154-- From kdavidross@aol.com Fri Dec 26 01:29:32 2003 From: kdavidross@aol.com (kdavidross@aol.com) Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2003 18:29:32 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200312260129.hBQ1TWF1014482@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a lemon and a grapefruit tree in my backyard. Both are about 12 years old and have never been pruned. They are getting unwieldly and some of the limbs (thick) are drooping. My question is this: at what time of the year do I prune them and how should I do this? I'm afraid that I will cut too much or perhaps lob off a major limb. Please send me some suggestions. Thanks. Ken Ross From smj35@earthlink.net Thu Dec 25 00:53:23 2003 From: smj35@earthlink.net (Stephen Mormile) Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 17:53:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bottle Tree Root System Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20031224175303.05826aa0@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_4431211==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed HI, I have a Bottle Tree which was planted in my yard a year and a half ago from a 24" box. Its approx 25' tall. It was planted approx. 3' from the side of my house, I am worried about the root system. I have 1 adjustable bubbler that waters the tree. How do the roots grow? Is there a possibility that the roots could go under the house and destroy the foundation? Please help. Thank You Steve Stephen Mormile smj35@earthlink.net Why Wait? Move to EarthLink. --=====================_4431211==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
HI, I have a Bottle Tree which was planted in my yard a year and a half ago from a 24" box. Its approx 25' tall. It was planted approx. 3' from the side of my house, I am worried about the root system. I have 1 adjustable bubbler that waters the tree. How do the roots grow? Is there a possibility that the roots could go under the house and destroy the foundation? Please help.
Thank You
Steve

Stephen Mormile
smj35@earthlink.net
Why Wait? Move to EarthLink.

--=====================_4431211==_.ALT-- From harbushka@lesd.k12.az.us Thu Dec 25 00:51:12 2003 From: harbushka@lesd.k12.az.us (Carol Harbushka) Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 17:51:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] HELP with tree pathology... Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20031224175007.058021b0@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_4431171==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Hi, Our elementary school has an Indian Rosewood tree planted as a memorial to a teacher who died this last summer. The tree was planted in Sept. and is now looking somewhat yellow and wilted. Any ideas on what could be wrong with it and how we can save it? It is planted in a grassy area and gets watered about once a week, plenty of sun too. Carol Harbushka Scott Libby Elementary School Litchfield Park, AZ harbushka@lesd.k12.az.us --=====================_4431171==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Hi,
Our elementary school has an Indian Rosewood tree planted as a memorial to a teacher who died this last summer. The tree was planted in Sept. and is now looking somewhat yellow and wilted. Any ideas on what could be wrong with it and how we can save it? It is planted in a grassy area and gets watered about once a week, plenty of sun too.

Carol Harbushka
Scott Libby Elementary School
Litchfield Park, AZ
harbushka@lesd.k12.az.us
--=====================_4431171==_.ALT-- From zkmiller@cox.net Sun Dec 28 21:56:20 2003 From: zkmiller@cox.net (zkmiller@cox.net) Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2003 14:56:20 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200312282156.hBSLuKF1027549@Ag.arizona.edu> Hi, Iwill apreciate your response, I planted two FIGS tree last years, one die after a couple weeks later, the other one survived, this years the tree thats grown gave me two beautiful fig fruids, bus this las week the leaves of the tree is getting yellow and brown,and falling, I d'ont know what happening, it getting reguler water, I olso stoped the water for three days thinking maybe its to much water for it, I d'ont know what else to do, please help with some advice to save my tree that its like my baby to me. this is my first one after moving to this beautiful state. thank you for all your help. From niemi@cox.net Fri Dec 26 17:38:40 2003 From: niemi@cox.net (niemi@cox.net) Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2003 10:38:40 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200312261738.hBQHceF1022737@Ag.arizona.edu> How big will a mandrin orange tree get here in Mesa? I have one thats about 10 yrs old and it's about 15 ft tall now. Will it spread wider and taller? Thanks, Robert Niemi From cstephens@infinet-is.com Mon Dec 29 01:27:38 2003 From: cstephens@infinet-is.com (Charles Stephens) Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2003 18:27:38 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200312282156.hBSLuKF1027549@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <002601c3cdaa$f36012c0$2eda13d8@default> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0023_01C3CD70.45B18940 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi, Fig trees are winter deciduous (they lose their leaves in winter). What = you are seeing is normal for this time of year. As far as watering is = concerned, it should be watered deeply. Wet the soil to a depth of = about 3 feet. You can check the depth of water penetration by pushing a = metal rod into the soil . Check in several places to be sure that you = haven't hit a rock. This time of year watering once a month is adequate, = when the weather gets hot the tree should be watered about every two = weeks. If birds get to be a problem you may need to protect the fruit by = covering the tree with some netting. It is readily available in the = local nurseries and home stores. Charlie Stephens Master Gardener Phoenix ----- Original Message -----=20 From: zkmiller@cox.net=20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Sunday, December 28, 2003 2:56 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hi, Iwill apreciate your response, I planted two FIGS tree last years, one die after a couple weeks = later, the other one survived, this years the tree thats grown gave me = two beautiful fig fruids, bus this las week the leaves of the tree is = getting yellow and brown,and falling, I d'ont know what happening, it = getting reguler water, I olso stoped the water for three days thinking = maybe its to much water for it, I d'ont know what else to do, please = help with some advice to save my tree that its like my baby to me. this = is my first one after moving to this beautiful state. thank you for all = your help. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener ------=_NextPart_000_0023_01C3CD70.45B18940 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hi,

Fig trees are winter deciduous (they lose their leaves in winter). = What you=20 are seeing is normal for this time of year. As far as watering is = concerned, it=20 should be watered deeply. Wet the soil to a depth of about 3 feet. You = can check=20 the depth of water penetration by pushing a metal rod into the soil . = Check in=20 several places to be sure that you haven't hit a rock. This time of year = watering once a month is adequate, when the weather gets hot the tree = should be=20 watered about every two weeks.

If birds get to be a problem you may need to protect the fruit by = covering=20 the tree with some netting. It is readily available in the local = nurseries and=20 home stores.

Charlie Stephens
Master Gardener
Phoenix

----- Original Message -----

From:=20 zkmiller@cox.net=20

To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu =

Sent: Sunday, December 28, 2003 = 2:56=20 PM

Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Question from=20 Home-Hort WWW page

Hi, Iwill apreciate your response,
I planted two = FIGS tree=20 last years, one die after a couple weeks later, the other one = survived, this=20 years the tree thats grown gave me two beautiful fig fruids, bus this = las week=20 the leaves of the tree is getting yellow and brown,and falling, I = d'ont know=20 what happening, it getting reguler water, I olso stoped the water for = three=20 days thinking maybe its to much water for it, I d'ont know what else = to do,=20 please help with some advice to save my tree that its like my baby to = me. this=20 is my first one after moving to this beautiful state. thank you for = all your=20 = help.

_______________________________________________
Arid_gard= ener=20 mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu=
http://Ag.A= rizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
------=_NextPart_000_0023_01C3CD70.45B18940-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Dec 29 17:10:05 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 17:10:05 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] HELP with tree pathology - Indian rosewood Message-ID: Indian rosewood Dalbergia sissoo is damaged by cold, which browns foliage and causes thin and wan appearance in late winters. It recovers quickly in spring. It needs regular deep irrigation and may not be geting that from lawn irrigation. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Carol Harbushka (by way of Lucy Bradley >) >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] HELP with tree pathology... >Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2003 17:51:12 -0700 > >Hi, > Our elementary school has an Indian Rosewood tree planted as a memorial >to a teacher who died this last summer. The tree was planted in Sept. and >is now looking somewhat yellow and wilted. Any ideas on what could be >wrong with it and how we can save it? It is planted in a grassy area and >gets watered about once a week, plenty of sun too. > >Carol Harbushka >Scott Libby Elementary School >Litchfield Park, AZ >harbushka@lesd.k12.az.us _________________________________________________________________ Get reliable dial-up Internet access now with our limited-time introductory offer. http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/dialup From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Dec 29 16:44:32 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 16:44:32 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] citrus, mature size Message-ID: Two citrus clinics will be held in January in Maricopa County: 1) Saturday, January 24, 2004 from 8:30 a.m. to 12:00 p.m. at 2558 E. Lehi Road in Mesa, Arizona 2) Saturday, January 31, 2004 from 8:30 a.m. to 12:00 p.m. at the Citrus Agricultural Center, in Waddell, Arizona. To learn more: http://cals.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden Mature size for mandarins is about 16-20 feet. yours probably won't get much bigger. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: niemi@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2003 10:38:40 -0700 (MST) > >How big will a mandrin orange tree get here in Mesa? I have one thats >about 10 yrs old and it's about 15 ft tall now. Will it spread wider and >taller? >Thanks, >Robert Niemi > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Make your home warm and cozy this winter with tips from MSN House & Home. http://special.msn.com/home/warmhome.armx From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Dec 29 16:48:16 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 16:48:16 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] citrus pruning Message-ID: Two citrus clinics will be held in January in Maricopa County: 1) Saturday, January 24, 2004 from 8:30 a.m. to 12:00 p.m. at 2558 E. Lehi Road in Mesa, Arizona 2) Saturday, January 31, 2004 from 8:30 a.m. to 12:00 p.m. at the Citrus Agricultural Center, in Waddell, Arizona. These cinics are free, open to the public and have answers to most cistrus questions. To learn more: http://cals.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden In general, citrus are not pruned except to remove dead wood and crossing branches. The bark is very sensitive to sunburn and you don't want to remove foliage that is shading the trunk and branches. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: kdavidross@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2003 18:29:32 -0700 (MST) > >I have a lemon and a grapefruit tree in my backyard. Both are about 12 >years old and have never been pruned. They are getting unwieldly and some >of the limbs (thick) are drooping. > >My question is this: at what time of the year do I prune them and how >should I do this? I'm afraid that I will cut too much or perhaps lob off a >major limb. > >Please send me some suggestions. Thanks. > >Ken Ross > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Have fun customizing MSN Messenger � learn how here! http://www.msnmessenger-download.com/tracking/reach_customize From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Dec 29 16:55:09 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 16:55:09 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] fig trees Message-ID: Hi not sure what part of the state you live in, but figs lose their leaves in cold weather naturally. In severe cold, below 10 to 15 F, the wood freezes back severely and the trees grow as shrubs. Avoid deep cultivation that damages surface roots; avoid high nitrogen fertilizing if you want fruit; water deeply at regular intervals. tell us more about how you are caring for the tree and perhaps we can help. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: zkmiller@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2003 14:56:20 -0700 (MST) > >Hi, Iwill apreciate your response, >I planted two FIGS tree last years, one die after a couple weeks later, the >other one survived, this years the tree thats grown gave me two beautiful >fig fruids, bus this las week the leaves of the tree is getting yellow and >brown,and falling, I d'ont know what happening, it getting reguler water, I >olso stoped the water for three days thinking maybe its to much water for >it, I d'ont know what else to do, please help with some advice to save my >tree that its like my baby to me. this is my first one after moving to this >beautiful state. thank you for all your help. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Enjoy a special introductory offer for dial-up Internet access � limited time only! http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/dialup From llbacks@yahoo.com Mon Dec 29 19:15:04 2003 From: llbacks@yahoo.com (llbacks@yahoo.com) Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 12:15:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200312291915.hBTJF4F1011157@Ag.arizona.edu> I recently had landscaping installed at a new home, in the past two weeks. We had frost over the past two nights. The ficus leaves turned brown and the hibiscus leave froze. Will these plants still live? After time will new leaves grow? Thank you, Larry Backs From gusnaz@cox.net Mon Dec 29 23:09:48 2003 From: gusnaz@cox.net (gusnaz@cox.net) Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 16:09:48 -0700 (US Mountain Standard Time) Subject: [Arid_gardener] hollyhocks and native mesquite Message-ID: <3FF0B43C.000003.15961@default.ph.cox.net> --------------Boundary-00=_C0JOG6G0000000000000 Content-Type: Multipart/Alternative; boundary="------------Boundary-00=_C0JOBHK0000000000000" --------------Boundary-00=_C0JOBHK0000000000000 Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hello,=0D I have a couple of questions, I planted 3 areas of my yard with holly= hocks from seed. The first year I had plenty of healthy green leaves and = no stocks. This is the end of the second year and still no stocks, with p= lenty of green leaves. Do I wait 3 years until I get flowers. They are al= l on a drip system and I am wondering if I should stop the water on them = so that they can be dormant. The hard frost we have had has burnt most of= the leaves. Also I planted what I was told was a native mesquite, It wa= s in a 24 inch box, and it is in its 2nd year. Last winter at this time, = it lost some leaves but this year the tree is bare. I am only watering it= once a month now that it is winter. Is it deciduous? Thanks for your hel= p. Gus Nelson=20 --------------Boundary-00=_C0JOBHK0000000000000 Content-Type: Text/HTML; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hello,

I have a couple of questions, I planted 3 areas o= f my yard with hollyhocks from seed. The first year I had plenty of healt= hy green leaves and no stocks. This is the end of the second year an= d still no stocks, with plenty of green leaves. Do I wait 3 years until I= get flowers. They are all on a drip system and I am wondering if I shoul= d stop the water on them so that they can be dormant. The hard frost we h= ave had has burnt most of the leaves. Also I planted what I was tol= d was a native mesquite, It was in a 24 inch box, and it is in its 2nd ye= ar. Last winter at this time, it lost some leaves but this year the tree = is bare. I am only watering it once a month now that it is winter. Is it = deciduous? Thanks for your help. Gus Nelson

______________________= ______________________________
<= A href=3D"http://www.incredimail.com/redir.asp?ad_id=3D309&lang=3D9">= 3D""

IncrediMail - Email has= finally evolved - = Click Here --------------Boundary-00=_C0JOBHK0000000000000-- --------------Boundary-00=_C0JOG6G0000000000000 Content-Type: image/gif; name="IMSTP.gif" Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 Content-ID: R0lGODlhFAAPALMIAP9gAM9gAM8vAM9gL/+QL5AvAGAvAP9gL////wAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAACH/C05FVFNDQVBFMi4wAwEAAAAh+QQJFAAIACwAAAAAFAAPAAAEVRDJSaudJuudrxlEKI6B URlCUYyjKpgYAKSgOBSCDEuGDKgrAtC3Q/R+hkPJEDgYCjpKr5A8WK9OaPFZwHoPqm3366VKyeRt E30tVVRscMHDqV/u+AgAIfkEBWQACAAsAAAAABQADwAABBIQyUmrvTjrzbv/YCiOZGmeaAQAIfkE CRQACAAsAgABABAADQAABEoQIUOrpXIOwrsPxiQUheeRAgUA49YNhbCqK1kS9grQhXGAhsDBUJgZ AL2Dcqkk7ogFpvRAokSn0p4PO6UIuUsQggSmFjKXdAgRAQAh+QQFCgAIACwAAAAAFAAPAAAEEhDJ Sau9OOvNu/9gKI5kaZ5oBAAh+QQJFAAIACwCAAEAEAANAAAEShAhQ6ulcg7Cuw/GJBSF55ECBQDj 1g2FsKorWRL2CtCFcYCGwMFQmBkAvYNyqSTuiAWm9ECiRKfSng87pQi5SxCCBKYWMpd0CBEBACH5 BAVkAAgALAAAAAAUAA8AAAQSEMlJq7046827/2AojmRpnmgEADs= --------------Boundary-00=_C0JOG6G0000000000000-- From cstephens@infinet-is.com Mon Dec 29 19:28:51 2003 From: cstephens@infinet-is.com (Charles Stephens) Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 12:28:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] citrus pruning References: Message-ID: <001501c3ce41$fecab740$8dda13d8@default> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C3CE07.5123CEE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Linda, The citrus clinics are NOT free, see the links below for more info. http://cals.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/calendar/citrus-e.htm http://cals.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/calendar/citrus-nw.htm Charlie Stephens Master Gardener Phoenix----- Original Message -----=20 From: Linda Drew=20 To: kdavidross@aol.com ; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Monday, December 29, 2003 9:48 AM Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] citrus pruning Two citrus clinics will be held in January in Maricopa County: 1) Saturday, January 24, 2004 from 8:30 a.m. to 12:00 p.m. at 2558 E. = Lehi=20 Road in Mesa, Arizona 2) Saturday, January 31, 2004 from 8:30 a.m. to 12:00 p.m. at the = Citrus=20 Agricultural Center, in Waddell, Arizona. These cinics are free, open to the public and have answers to most = cistrus=20 questions. To learn more: http://cals.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden In general, citrus are not pruned except to remove dead wood and = crossing branches. The bark is very sensitive to sunburn and you don't want to = remove foliage that is shading the trunk and branches. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: kdavidross@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2003 18:29:32 -0700 (MST) > >I have a lemon and a grapefruit tree in my backyard. Both are about = 12=20 >years old and have never been pruned. They are getting unwieldly and = some=20 >of the limbs (thick) are drooping. > >My question is this: at what time of the year do I prune them and how = >should I do this? I'm afraid that I will cut too much or perhaps lob = off a=20 >major limb. > >Please send me some suggestions. Thanks. > >Ken Ross > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Have fun customizing MSN Messenger - learn how here! =20 http://www.msnmessenger-download.com/tracking/reach_customize _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener ------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C3CE07.5123CEE0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Linda,

The citrus clinics are NOT free, see the links below for more = info.

http://cals.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/calendar/citrus-e.htm=

http://cals.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/calendar/citrus-nw.htm

Charlie Stephens
Master Gardener
Phoenix----- Original = Message -----=20

From:=20 Linda=20 Drew

To: kdavidross@aol.com ; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu =

Sent: Monday, December 29, 2003 = 9:48=20 AM

Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] = citrus=20 pruning

Two citrus clinics will be held in January in = Maricopa=20 County:
1) Saturday, January 24, 2004 from 8:30 a.m. to 12:00 p.m. = at 2558=20 E. Lehi
Road in Mesa, Arizona
2) Saturday, January 31, 2004 = from 8:30=20 a.m. to 12:00 p.m. at the Citrus
Agricultural Center, in Waddell,=20 Arizona.

These cinics are free, open to the public and have = answers to=20 most cistrus
questions.

To learn more: http://cals.arizona.edu/= maricopa/garden

In=20 general, citrus are not pruned except to remove dead wood and=20 crossing
branches. The bark is very sensitive to sunburn and you = don't want=20 to remove
foliage that is shading the trunk and = branches.

Linda=20 Drew
Master Gardener

>From: kdavidross@aol.com
>To: = <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= >
>Subject:=20 [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>Date: Thu, 25 = Dec 2003=20 18:29:32 -0700 (MST)
>
>I have a lemon and a grapefruit = tree in my=20 backyard. Both are about 12
>years old and have never = been=20 pruned. They are getting unwieldly and some
>of the limbs = (thick)=20 are drooping.
>
>My question is this: at what time of the = year do=20 I prune them and how
>should I do this? I'm afraid that I = will=20 cut too much or perhaps lob off a
>major = limb.
>
>Please=20 send me some suggestions. Thanks.
>
>Ken=20 = Ross
>
>_______________________________________________
&g= t;Arid_gardener=20 mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu=
>http://Ag.A= rizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener

____________________= _____________________________________________
Have=20 fun customizing MSN Messenger - learn how here!
ht= tp://www.msnmessenger-download.com/tracking/reach_customize

__= _____________________________________________
Arid_gardener=20 mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu=
http://Ag.A= rizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C3CE07.5123CEE0-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Dec 30 14:54:17 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2003 14:54:17 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Asclepias, milkweed Message-ID: Did some additional reading -- Asdclepias prefers soil temperatures of 59 F or higher to germinate and seeds are usually sown in the spring. Are you using a heat pad under the seed trays to keep the soil temp at about 60F? You may want to store the seed in a cool dry place and wait until the days warm. They prefer very sandy soil with good drainage. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: DESERTPATRICK@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2003 08:03:56 -0700 (MST) > >I ASKED A QUESTION A COUPLE WEEKS AGO BUT I HAD THE WRONG NAME. LETS TRY >AGAIN. THE PLANT IN QUESTION IS DESERT MILKWEED. THE BOT. NAME IS ASCLEPIAS >SUBLATA. MY PROBLEM IS THAT I CAN NOT GET THE SEEDS TO GERMINATE. I TRIED >SOIL AND A WET PAPER TOWEL. ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Enjoy a special introductory offer for dial-up Internet access � limited time only! http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/dialup From rjjune@cox.net Wed Dec 31 02:37:28 2003 From: rjjune@cox.net (Richard and June Jezeski) Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2003 19:37:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] lantana and ficus nitida trees Message-ID: <001c01c3cf47$085a0210$c88f0344@yourah1qbb56u1> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0019_01C3CF0C.5BE0EB50 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable After the last couple of frost evenings my lantanas look like they where = frost bitten, what do you recommend to bring them back, also I have two = ficus nitide trees both 5 years of age one about 6 ft. tall and the = other one is about 10 ft. tall, the leaves are turned a olive color, = both trees and the lantana are in full sun. thanks you=20 Richard ------=_NextPart_000_0019_01C3CF0C.5BE0EB50 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

After the last couple of frost evenings = my lantanas=20 look like they where frost bitten, what do you recommend to bring them = back,=20 also I have two ficus nitide trees both 5 years of age one about 6 ft. = tall and=20 the other one is about 10 ft. tall, the leaves are turned a olive color, = both=20 trees and the lantana are in full sun.

thanks you

Richard

------=_NextPart_000_0019_01C3CF0C.5BE0EB50-- From hnjwaage@cox.net Tue Dec 30 01:54:57 2003 From: hnjwaage@cox.net (Jane Waage) Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2003 18:54:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ficus Nitida frost bite Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0001_01C3CE3D.410E9EF0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Last night it got very cold and I covered my hibiscus but did not cover the ficus trees which have been in about a year and are between 7 and 8 ft tall. Today I noticed that from about halfway up the tree to the top of the tree it is brown and I believe it got frostbite. Is there anything I can do to help the trees survive the frost? Will appreciate any help you can give me. Thanks Jane ------=_NextPart_000_0001_01C3CE3D.410E9EF0 Content-Type: application/ms-tnef; name="winmail.dat" Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="winmail.dat" eJ8+IjkBAQaQCAAEAAAAAAABAAEAAQeQBgAIAAAA5AQAAAAAAADoAAEIgAcAGAAAAElQTS5NaWNy b3NvZnQgTWFpbC5Ob3RlADEIAQ2ABAACAAAAAwADAAEGgAMADgAAANMHDAAdABIANgAAAAEATAEB A5AGAKQLAAAiAAAACwACAAEAAAALACMAAAAAAAMAJgD/////CwApAAAAAAADADYAAAAAAB4AcAAB AAAAGAAAAEZpY3VzIE5pdGlkYSBmcm9zdCBiaXRlAAIBcQABAAAAFgAAAAHDznftL+Ca6w0/Mky2 pwRNhk+1YA8AAAIBHQwBAAAAFgAAAFNNVFA6SE5KV0FBR0VAQ09YLk5FVAAAAAsAAQ4AAAAAQAAG DgCsE8t3zsMBAgEKDgEAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPG2isKH+5pHqce00NOFM5jCgAAACwAfDgEAAAACAQkQ AQAAALcHAACzBwAAShIAAExaRnUp6UkvAwAKAHJjcGcxMjVyMgxgYzEDMAEHC2BukQ4QMDMzDxZm ZQ+STwH3AqQDYwIAY2gKwHOEZXQC0XBycTIAAJIqCqFubxJQIDAB0IUB0DYPoDA1MDQUIfMB0BQQ NH0HbQKDAFAD1PsR/xMLYhPhFFATshj0FNAbBxMCgzMOUBGdMjM4xRdUIAdtIENFGgQPwE8ajhRA G68ctXlyGgQ1uRGOMTYWMR7/A4JHCdHqaxoENiDvNhphIj8DgtZUCHAaBDckTzcncSWfIQOCKEhl Yglwdyn/GgQbkSeuG58ptgcQAaAN4HUqlTkrHzgkMSxvA4JC/QdAdA3gAoMUUBZOG3gHE70dBjQW Px6oM7UgVTQdke8WbCHoM7QjiDQewTduJWb7M7Qm5jQg0TdtKJcztCor3jQkMTzOMzwtuzQncTdt Xy+3M7QxRgKRCOY7CW8w9UW/ZQ4wNUbqSAFHv0jJ/0bUSPJHX0svSu1Kb0ifRu/5EGAyOFC6UdFR j1KZRtR/UsJRL1T/VL1UP1JvVjQ5Pw5QWYRa4VMDWuACgnN0VHlsB5BoCeB0AABxeQMhbGkBQAUQ AUAD8GTYY3RsCrEAYHMKsF4gIxbgXmJudW0CAGFhiHV0bwBgZGp1XFDxBRBnaHRdgQoBXVAKAfJp AZBwMAMxNJIMAQ9XnxAYCNAJwF3gYiNucGJ5w2QUAzBzbmV4FzAHsM8FsADAAnMTEGNzD5ADMKVf 4GRhQGl2E4BEARDTX5AxYCBQCsBhCcBhYNhoIEYCIVwTMSDQXRLoZmktD5A4YNJp012ceSpQZHIJ UGtyFqBrcnf/PIEqUF6AAdBm0V6PX59gpt9p02FPYl9jb2R+Ym0wCYA/AiBwcWVjaTBn8GChdC0r aJADYTowMG92MFN1FGJqBZB0djBEYXT8ZTpo5CQwaW9qf2uPbJ//ba9uv2/MXKB9MAuADhJwcf8M MHCkDlBxL3I/c090X3Vn7FJlZ1AXASAqMH0wBJD/aOQncHf/eQ96H3svfD4IYNteEAuAZVyAZ1Bs AUB9P1t+T39UMI9wCNBiCrB09jh/6HEGMh7AEBaRMYHk4xNQF3Bvb2aCP4NPhFfnkACFcAtQeS9o oInQCxH9heVzaOQsMIbfh++I/4oP/3w/jQ9vz3DfgW+TL5Q/lU//llJ2UnX0dykukF0fXi+cH/dg T55kj7M5nq+fv6DPod/jhEiq4ERvY6ggCfAFQL5NnnBmNpsTZwarB2MAQP+uqGayp2CFoQIgM+Fc QAWgtG1wE2JFAMADEFNcYvsB0FwTMgBQpf+nD6gfqS9/nm+rz6zfre+EC7XwtNAtr7TyBgC5YLQA dAhwZUTjCxMQRdB2AlEge1Vu6msTUHcV0X220sHQtxD7mcEBgG52sABgCfBnALAATZJheAtgAkBv eQnwXP1lgHBcoAAgC5ATUGfBmcCft5AA4QIwAmAAgGJkDDD7E1EKsGMBEAWwZ8ACAWXwUX8yZVxo BbB6w4JksmcAwHJnC4HIYGjGk/MvoAFBZ3bJKcfhuWCd4Zw3MABQybHKpTk4HsD7yPLH4HfLM8xk dsDEkABwXwsww4FcYLOwDlB2CJB3+msLgGQewM5iBPAHQBBhfwFADgCZklywuPDPxQIQb/e5kLeQ leB0weCMUcLS0Vf/uYAAwLiwt5CSYcYAuYC48f8JMrkgjHACUAdAC5DUYQJRv86xtlDRYM9RtxAC YHfVI58CUQAgCcC2UMMAcmvHAX+x4hchEvJ3QLSAw/ETgEOoOlxcdYBvaEFtaJD3AxAHkNigTQ3g A2Cz4AGA3CBPASAN4MfAXNpWD5PrxHC08i6EIHTCIBcQtxD/lnC58mWAAUDDUdNgBJDHwH/cYoxC vJIkIAFA3GNnlGOPwWETAgCABZBsdmwAUP+4MQUAuGDf8QGQACDgcs6x/7BBAcHf4RbgD3AAALgw DND5AZAgLsC03/YOUOCSxUH34P/iD+MfbA/AuDAFgeTP++Xf5u9sHsC4MNWQ5J/pX33qZCnjXCDQ 6C/tD+pEYv8qEAKR7i/gIyQw69/wn/Gv//K/4FAncPQC4N/1b/Z/41z/LDD0D/mP+p/7r+BQLpD4 j//+H/8vADQK+bZAti+3P7hPf7lfum+7f7yPZItFEbJWDfIKBQIgTAcwZ+ACgAkhUiAKACBn0QAg hZF5ziBFMZZwzZEgSRCRhZHJReAgbRCAaGkt8LRQ6dQAIGIIYCBnEJZwGBDTZ+ARUyB0XLAg2nES YesI8EZAcw7Fd0UCslYSAOs30BHwYWdRYkZBD9Ac8Pct4IwREOAgxEAHABUqEOPvBwAWYtFwFpI3 EOOQABUqU9oh04BsbBUqLnZBZP5hEIARMBMR2oGWcBOwdzDPGgwhARb1N+BsZpZAEID8dXAToxRS DsUIcB+EkoD+IJLAH4cP0jeAEoAkYMHg/xDlFoAGEIWBD9YrIVxQLfD7d0AcAEkUMd2CEOHRYBIA /wsQESIn0A7FFSqEICByXLD3BuAfhyzwczwQzmBnUROz3SQSPxUqDsUOxVfb4AXg/6pAL/B20EFQ 2FEu8BUqEeF9J8J5jBAl4hAAZ0KwMC5VDsVU6fFrFJZKGbBlEynPJnF9ADGQAAsAAYAIIAYAAAAA AMAAAAAAAABGAAAAAAOFAAAAAAAAAwADgAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYAAAAAEIUAAAAAAAADAAeA CCAGAAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAAAABShQAAfW4BAB4ACYAIIAYAAAAAAMAAAAAAAABGAAAAAFSFAAAB AAAABAAAADkuMAALAA2ACCAGAAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAAAACChQAAAQAAAAsAQIAIIAYAAAAAAMAA AAAAAABGAAAAAA6FAAAAAAAAAwBCgAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYAAAAAEYUAAAAAAAADAEOACCAG AAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAAAAAYhQAAAAAAAAMAcoAIIAYAAAAAAMAAAAAAAABGAAAAAAGFAAAAAAAA CwCDgAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYAAAAABoUAAAAAAAACAfgPAQAAABAAAADxtorCh/uaR6nHtNDT hTOYAgH6DwEAAAAQAAAA8baKwof7mkepx7TQ04UzmAIB+w8BAAAAnAAAAAAAAAA4obsQBeUQGqG7 CAArKlbCAABQU1RQUlguRExMAAAAAAAAAABOSVRB+b+4AQCqADfZbgAAAEM6XERvY3VtZW50cyBh bmQgU2V0dGluZ3NcSmFuZSBXYWFnZVxMb2NhbCBTZXR0aW5nc1xBcHBsaWNhdGlvbiBEYXRhXE1p Y3Jvc29mdFxPdXRsb29rXG91dGxvb2sucHN0AAMA/g8FAAAAAwANNP03AAACAX8AAQAAADAAAAA8 SktFSEtKTUhFRkdHRkpFSExFR0RNRUZQQ0FBQS5obmp3YWFnZUBjb3gubmV0PgADAAYQ8wrvRAMA BxAyAQAAAwAQEAAAAAADABEQAAAAAB4ACBABAAAAZQAAAExBU1ROSUdIVElUR09UVkVSWUNPTERB TkRJQ09WRVJFRE1ZSElCSVNDVVNCVVRESUROT1RDT1ZFUlRIRUZJQ1VTVFJFRVNXSElDSEhBVkVC RUVOSU5BQk9VVEFZRUFSQU5EQVIAAAAAduw= ------=_NextPart_000_0001_01C3CE3D.410E9EF0-- From mds@sncpa.com Tue Dec 30 23:23:03 2003 From: mds@sncpa.com (mds@sncpa.com) Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2003 16:23:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200312302323.hBUNN3F1017584@Ag.arizona.edu> My bouganvillia and hibiscus froze night before last. Or .... they got frost bite or whatever. What do I do with this damaged part of the plants? Do I prune the damaged areas off asap? I covered the plants with sheets last night but ........ they are already so damaged and hurt. From GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com Wed Dec 31 03:24:37 2003 From: GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com (GardenGuy) Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2003 20:24:37 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] lantana and ficus nitida trees In-Reply-To: <001c01c3cf47$085a0210$c88f0344@yourah1qbb56u1> References: <001c01c3cf47$085a0210$c88f0344@yourah1qbb56u1> Message-ID: <3FF24175.208@GardenersCorner.com> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------040003070304090309060004 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Richard, I cannot answer you questions on the Ficus Nitide trees, as I do not grow them. Your Lantana has been frost bitten. Do not prune it or anything in case we have some more frosty weather. Let what is there protect the rest of the lantana that is still alive underneath. When the last chance of frost has passed (last I heard that was February 15) then go ahead and prune all the dead growth off. You will most likely see new leaves just beginning to bud out where the frost has not damaged it. From my personal experience, i would say you would be safe to go ahead and prune it back mid to late January...but last recorded frost date is February 15, the last I read. -- -- Chat with you later... Alan ----- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ***** LIVE Garden Chat Now Available ***** ----- Alan Zelhart GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- I am Homer of Borg! Prepare to beOOooooo! Donuts!!! Richard and June Jezeski wrote: > After the last couple of frost evenings my lantanas look like they > where frost bitten, what do you recommend to bring them back, also I > have two ficus nitide trees both 5 years of age one about 6 ft. tall > and the other one is about 10 ft. tall, the leaves are turned a olive > color, both trees and the lantana are in full sun. > thanks you > Richard --------------040003070304090309060004 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Richard,

I cannot answer you questions on the Ficus Nitide trees, as I do not grow them. Your Lantana has been frost bitten. Do not prune it or anything in case we have some more frosty weather. Let what is there protect the rest of the lantana that is still alive underneath. When the last chance of frost has passed (last I heard that was February 15) then go ahead and prune all the dead growth off. You will most likely see new leaves just beginning to bud out where the frost has not damaged it. From my personal experience, i would say you would be safe to go ahead and prune it back mid to late January...but last recorded frost date is February 15, the last I read.

-- 
--
Chat with you later...
Alan
-----
Chandler, Arizona        Sunset Zone: 13
http://www.GardenersCorner.com
***** LIVE Garden Chat Now Available *****
-----
Alan Zelhart       
GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com
Gardens Co-listowner
http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html
-----
 I am Homer of Borg! Prepare to beOOooooo! Donuts!!!

Richard and June Jezeski wrote:

After the last couple of frost evenings my lantanas look like they where frost bitten, what do you recommend to bring them back, also I have two ficus nitide trees both 5 years of age one about 6 ft. tall and the other one is about 10 ft. tall, the leaves are turned a olive color, both trees and the lantana are in full sun.

thanks you

Richard

--------------040003070304090309060004-- From rodmcq6@highstream.net Wed Dec 31 23:14:18 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 16:14:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Frost damage to Ficus and Hibiscus Message-ID: <003001c3cff3$d211f2a0$ad04e043@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_002D_01C3CFB9.247D59C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Larry, The Ficus nitida is frost tender and can be damaged at 25F and = especially since it was just planted. There is nothing you can do now = except to make sure that it is watered properly and to cover the crown = and wrap the trunk if freezing temperatures are forecast. Remember that = if you live in the suburbs the temperatures can be as much as 10 degrees = lower than those forcast for Sky Harbor Airport. The Hibiscus can be damaged at 28F. An established Hibiscus will usually = survive even if frozen to the ground but the newly planted Hibiscus may = not make it if severely damaged.=20 Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener=20 ------=_NextPart_000_002D_01C3CFB9.247D59C0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Larry,

The Ficus nitida is frost tender and can be damaged = at 25F=20 and especially since it was just planted. There = is nothing=20 you can do now except to make sure that it is watered properly and to = cover the=20 crown and wrap the trunk if freezing temperatures are forecast. Remember = that if=20 you live in the suburbs the temperatures can be as much as 10 degrees = lower than=20 those forcast for Sky Harbor Airport.

The Hibiscus can be damaged at 28F. An established Hibiscus will = usually=20 survive even if frozen to the ground but the newly planted Hibiscus may = not make=20 it if severely damaged.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick

Master Gardener

------=_NextPart_000_002D_01C3CFB9.247D59C0-- From rodmcq6@highstream.net Wed Dec 31 22:55:59 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 15:55:59 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ficus nitida with frost damage Message-ID: <001c01c3cff1$42fab360$ad04e043@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0019_01C3CFB6.953CE7A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Jane, The Ficus nitida is frost tender and can be damaged at 25F and = especially since it is only one year old. There is nothing you can do = now except to make sure that it is watered properly and to cover the = crown and wrap the trunk if freezing temperatures are forecast. Remember = that if you live in the suburbs the temperatures can be as much as 10 = degrees lower than those forcast for Sky Harbor Airport.=20 Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ------=_NextPart_000_0019_01C3CFB6.953CE7A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Jane,

The Ficus nitida is frost tender and can be damaged = at 25F=20 and especially since it is only one year old. There is nothing = you can=20 do now except to make sure that it is watered properly and to cover the = crown=20 and wrap the trunk if freezing temperatures are forecast. Remember that = if you=20 live in the suburbs the temperatures can be as much as 10 degrees lower = than=20 those forcast for Sky Harbor Airport.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick

Master Gardener

------=_NextPart_000_0019_01C3CFB6.953CE7A0-- From ejneary@cox.net Wed Dec 31 15:45:44 2003 From: ejneary@cox.net (ejneary@cox.net) Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 08:45:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200312311545.hBVFjiF1010837@Ag.arizona.edu> When is a good time to prune red grape vines? Where can I find a good reference for grape vine pruning techniques? Thanks for your help. From jacote@cox.net Wed Dec 31 05:08:53 2003 From: jacote@cox.net (jacote@cox.net) Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2003 22:08:53 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200312310508.hBV58rF1014986@Ag.arizona.edu> What Avocado variety does well in the Phoenix area? From davepolen@msn.com Wed Dec 31 14:21:48 2003 From: davepolen@msn.com (davepolen@msn.com) Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 07:21:48 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200312311421.hBVELmF1004412@Ag.arizona.edu> When should I apply pre-emergent crabgrass killer to my lawn? Currently, my lawn is overseeded with rye grass, and the summer turf is a bermuda variety known as BOB sod. Thanks. From sbarvian1@cableaz.com Wed Dec 31 03:37:12 2003 From: sbarvian1@cableaz.com (Scott Barvian) Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2003 20:37:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ficus Nitida frost bite References: Message-ID: <000a01c3cf4f$60f8f400$2824a8c0@lbmelman> Welcome to the club, all of the ficus around my neighborhood got bit too. I was very surprised to see this since the thermometer on my patio said 32 degrees at 7 AM on both Sunday and Monday. Must have been a few degrees colder out in the yard, if I'd known that I would have sprayed them with water which probably would have helped. My trees were probably about the same size and age as yours at this time back in 1997 when they were frozen back. Wait till spring when you can see which branches will put on new growth and which will not. There's nothing you can do about it now. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jane Waage" To: Sent: Monday, December 29, 2003 6:54 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ficus Nitida frost bite > > Last night it got very cold and I covered my hibiscus but did not cover the > ficus trees > which have been in about a year and are between 7 and 8 ft tall. Today I > noticed that from about halfway up the tree > to the top of the tree it is brown and I believe it got frostbite. Is there > anything I can > do to help the trees survive the frost? > > Will appreciate any help you can give me. > Thanks > Jane > From GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com Wed Dec 31 03:31:35 2003 From: GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com (GardenGuy) Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2003 20:31:35 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200312302323.hBUNN3F1017584@Ag.arizona.edu> References: <200312302323.hBUNN3F1017584@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3FF24317.3000408@GardenersCorner.com> Do the same with the Bougainvillea and the hibiscus as you would do with the lantana. Do not prune it or anything in case we have some more frosty weather. Let what is there protect the rest of the lantana that is still alive underneath. When the last chance of frost has passed (last I heard that was February 15) then go ahead and prune all the dead growth off. You will most likely see new leaves just beginning to bud out where the frost has not damaged it. From my personal experience, i would say you would be safe to go ahead and prune it back mid to late January...but last recorded frost date is February 15, the last I read. -- -- Chat with you later... Alan ----- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ***** LIVE Garden Chat Now Available ***** ----- Alan Zelhart GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- I am Homer of Borg! Prepare to beOOooooo! Donuts!!! mds@sncpa.com wrote: >My bouganvillia and hibiscus froze night before last. Or .... they got frost bite or whatever. What do I do with this damaged part of the plants? Do I prune the damaged areas off asap? I covered the plants with sheets last night but ........ they are already so damaged and hurt. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > From watsontl@mindspring.com Wed Dec 31 23:39:26 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 16:39:26 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] lantana and ficus nitida trees frost damage References: <001c01c3cf47$085a0210$c88f0344@yourah1qbb56u1> Message-ID: <02a901c3cff7$54f37920$0f09b83f@S0029317241> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_02A6_01C3CFBC.A7A16780 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable As a general rule it would be best to just let frost damaged plants = alone until you see new growth starting to appear. At that time you = can safely remove anything that is obviously dead and let them slowly = fill back out. (This assumes, of course, that they survived.) I = would not do anything, such as fertilizer, to encourage rapid growth, = which might produce a large amount of fresh growth that could be frozen = even more easily if we have another cold snap. Just water them as you = have been all along. When the danger of frost is past give them some = fertilizer to help restore them to former glory. Tom=20 ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Richard and June Jezeski=20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Tuesday, December 30, 2003 7:37 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] lantana and ficus nitida trees After the last couple of frost evenings my lantanas look like they = where frost bitten, what do you recommend to bring them back, also I = have two ficus nitide trees both 5 years of age one about 6 ft. tall and = the other one is about 10 ft. tall, the leaves are turned a olive color, = both trees and the lantana are in full sun. thanks you=20 Richard ------=_NextPart_000_02A6_01C3CFBC.A7A16780 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

As a general rule it would be best to = just let=20 frost damaged plants alone until you see new growth starting to=20 appear. At that time you can safely remove anything that is=20 obviously dead and let them slowly fill back out. (This = assumes, of=20 course, that they survived.) I would not do anything, = such as=20 fertilizer, to encourage rapid growth, which might produce a large = amount of=20 fresh growth that could be frozen even more easily if we have another = cold=20 snap. Just water them as you have been all = along. When=20 the danger of frost is past give them some fertilizer to = help restore them=20 to former glory.

Tom

----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Richard and = June=20 Jezeski
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= =20

Sent: Tuesday, December 30, = 2003 7:37=20 PM

Subject: [Arid_gardener] = lantana and=20 ficus nitida trees

After the last couple of frost = evenings my=20 lantanas look like they where frost bitten, what do you recommend to = bring=20 them back, also I have two ficus nitide trees both 5 years of age one = about 6=20 ft. tall and the other one is about 10 ft. tall, the leaves are turned = a olive=20 color, both trees and the lantana are in full sun.

thanks you

Richard

------=_NextPart_000_02A6_01C3CFBC.A7A16780-- From watsontl@mindspring.com Wed Dec 31 23:45:07 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 16:45:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Frost Bite on Bougainvilla References: <200312302323.hBUNN3F1017584@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <02b701c3cff8$1ff38d40$0f09b83f@S0029317241> Wait on pruning the damaged stuff out until all danger of frost is past for the year, and you can see signs of new growth. And definitely cover them if another freeze warning comes out. Otherwise take care of them as you normally would. The hibiscus may be slow recovering, but in six months you probably won't be able to tell anything happened the the bougainvilla. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, December 30, 2003 4:23 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > My bouganvillia and hibiscus froze night before last. Or .... they got frost bite or whatever. What do I do with this damaged part of the plants? Do I prune the damaged areas off asap? I covered the plants with sheets last night but ........ they are already so damaged and hurt. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From watsontl@mindspring.com Wed Dec 31 23:42:10 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 16:42:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ficus Nitida frost bite References: Message-ID: <02b201c3cff7$b6975a70$0f09b83f@S0029317241> Take care of it as you have been all along, and hold back pruning dead stuff out of it until you see where the new growth is sprouting. Otherwise you might remove material that was actually still alive. Don't feed them until the danger of frost has passed. And definitely cover the plant if there is another freez or frost warning. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jane Waage" To: Sent: Monday, December 29, 2003 6:54 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ficus Nitida frost bite > > Last night it got very cold and I covered my hibiscus but did not cover the > ficus trees > which have been in about a year and are between 7 and 8 ft tall. Today I > noticed that from about halfway up the tree > to the top of the tree it is brown and I believe it got frostbite. Is there > anything I can > do to help the trees survive the frost? > > Will appreciate any help you can give me. > Thanks > Jane >