From gingerb2l@netscape.net Tue Jul 1 02:09:15 2003 From: gingerb2l@netscape.net (gingerb2l@netscape.net) Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 19:09:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200307010209.h6129Fw4024278@Ag.arizona.edu> How can you tell when hubbard squash is ready to be picked, i forgot the date i planted it How to you keep squash from growing huge vines without nipping off the fruit From bacanorajoe@earthlink.net Tue Jul 1 23:38:19 2003 From: bacanorajoe@earthlink.net (J.O. Teague) Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 16:38:19 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] epiphyllum In-Reply-To: <200303051707.h25H7kK11722@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: I just found out that I have an orchid cactus, an epiphyllum. My friend from San Antonio gave it to me several years back. I think it might be sick. It has little dark specks under the skin of the leaves. I took a leaf to the plant store and the young man thought it was ok. He told me what it was called and I did a search on the internet. Wow! I guess you have probably seen lots of them? He told me about them only blooming once and at night. The story was that the original plant came from the Alamo and it was called an Alamo plant. I read something about a black spot virus. Don't know if that might be the problem. I would appreciate any help with it I can get. Kathy Teague From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net Wed Jul 2 02:24:18 2003 From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 19:24:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Squash Harvest Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200307010209.h6129Fw4024278@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000801c34041$571fce60$a553530c@olin> The usual recommendation for winter squash is to harvest when the stem starts to shrink and the rind is too hard to penetrate with a thumbnail. I usually do not plant the large winter squash in the spring but prefer late summer planting so the squash can ripen slowly as the weather cools. In this hot weather you need to keep an eye on the squash because it ripens rapidly. The large winter squashes need lots of space. You might prune back the vines with no squashes but I wouldn't disturb the vines with healthy squash. If you are still fertilizing, use a high phosphorus , low nitrogen fertilizer. If space is a problem, in the future you might consider bush varieties of the smaller winter squashes, like acorn, that can be planted at the same time in the spring as summer squash with good results. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > How can you tell when hubbard squash is ready to be picked, i forgot the date i planted it > How to you keep squash from growing huge vines without nipping off the fruit From kat621@cox.net Wed Jul 2 02:57:41 2003 From: kat621@cox.net (kat621@cox.net) Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 19:57:41 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200307020257.h622vfw4009051@Ag.arizona.edu> I have an area with three orange jubilee tecoma stans and a chaste tree. In the past few months there has been significant die back. portions of the plants are still alive. On the Orange Jubilee it appears that 50% has died. I am thinking that there is something in the soil that the plant has hit and causing it to die. Any thoughts or suggestions. also would like a recommendation for a certified arborist to trim some trees. thanks From chrysoprase@qwest.net Wed Jul 2 03:39:24 2003 From: chrysoprase@qwest.net (Jimmy Eriksson) Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 20:39:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] date palm trees Message-ID: <00db01c3404b$88a140e0$ddb10343@bxn560> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00D8_01C34010.DBA69E10 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable My neighbor has several Date palm trees in his yard, and recently had = workers trimmed his trees. The workers dropped the leaves and palms = both on his driveway and on my concrete driveway. Where they were = dropped, the concrete now has brown stains covering an area about 10 x = 20 feet. We used several stain removers with no results. Does anyone know a product or a method that will remove these stains. Thank you, Jimmy Eriksson ------=_NextPart_000_00D8_01C34010.DBA69E10 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
My=20 neighbor has several  Date palm trees in his yard, and = recently=20 had workers  trimmed his trees.  The workers dropped = the leaves and palms both on his driveway and  on my concrete=20 driveway.   Where they were dropped, the concrete now has = brown=20 stains covering  an area about 10 x 20 feet.   We used = several=20 stain removers with no results.
Does anyone know a = product or a=20 method that will remove these stains.
 
Thank you,
 
Jimmy=20 Eriksson 
------=_NextPart_000_00D8_01C34010.DBA69E10-- From GardenGuy@gardenerscorner.com Wed Jul 2 15:01:23 2003 From: GardenGuy@gardenerscorner.com (GardenerGuy@gardenerscorner.com) Date: Wed, 02 Jul 2003 08:01:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200307020257.h622vfw4009051@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3F02F3C3.6070903@gardenerscorner.com> My first instinct ask me to ask you, what are your watering practices for these plants? How do you water them? How long do you water them? How often do you water them. -- Chat with you later... Alan ----- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ----- Alan Zelhart GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- Is that a flying saucer or a pie in the sky? kat621@cox.net wrote: >I have an area with three orange jubilee tecoma stans and a chaste tree. In the past few months there has been significant die back. portions of the plants are still alive. On the Orange Jubilee it appears that 50% has died. I am thinking that there is something in the soil that the plant has hit and causing it to die. Any thoughts or suggestions. > >also would like a recommendation for a certified arborist to trim some trees. >thanks > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > From johnjoycew@citlink.net Wed Jul 2 16:24:52 2003 From: johnjoycew@citlink.net (johnjoycew@citlink.net) Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2003 09:24:52 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200307021624.h62GOqw4022598@Ag.arizona.edu> Earlier this year a list of plants and flowers that were virtually "rabbit-proof" was printed in the Arizona Republic. Unfortunately I failed to cut this article out and now I really need that list!!! The rabbits are winning!! Any help you can give as to these plants will be most welcome. Thanks for the info, Joyce From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net Wed Jul 2 17:55:35 2003 From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2003 10:55:35 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rabbit Resistant Plants Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200307021624.h62GOqw4022598@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <001001c340c3$2b306c60$bf50530c@olin> Dunno 'bout the AZ Republic article, but they probably copied the list from Publ. AZ1237 which you can view at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1237.pdf Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > Earlier this year a list of plants and flowers that were virtually "rabbit-proof" was printed in the Arizona Republic. Unfortunately I failed to cut this article out and now I really need that list!!! The rabbits are winning!! Any help you can give as to these plants will be most welcome. Thanks for the info, Joyce From GACarmack@aol.com Wed Jul 2 19:17:15 2003 From: GACarmack@aol.com (GACarmack@aol.com) Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2003 15:17:15 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] rabbit proof plants Message-ID: --part1_d3.1f5786b2.2c3489bb_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I think the Garden Guy discusses rabbit proofing in his book Extreme Gardening. --part1_d3.1f5786b2.2c3489bb_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I think the Garden Guy discusses rabbit proofing in hi= s book Extreme Gardening. --part1_d3.1f5786b2.2c3489bb_boundary-- From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Wed Jul 2 21:56:21 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2003 14:56:21 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tree Service Message-ID: <003201c340e4$c7b2a280$a72c0a3f@ibmbna6040> A tree service company with a Certified Arborist on staff will have the expertise to prune or care for your trees properly. Check your yellow pages under Tree Service and select a company that has a Certified Arborist on staff. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist -----Original Message----- From: isgrock@msn.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, June 30, 2003 3:03 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I planted a Lysiloma Thornberi(Feather Bush) tree in December 2001. It is in good shape, but I think it needs to be thinned rather than pruned. Can you provide directions on how to do this? Or the name of a competent company that knows what to do rather than a gardener who trims everything in the shape of a ball. Thanks. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rchoffman@webtv.net Thu Jul 3 15:21:13 2003 From: rchoffman@webtv.net (rchoffman@webtv.net) Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2003 08:21:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200307031521.h63FLDw4010033@Ag.arizona.edu> how do I get rid of the ants and gophers. they have destroyed all my trees and shrubs. I have tried only organic ways but am tempted to try poison. From Rebholz-Platz@att.net Thu Jul 3 16:32:22 2003 From: Rebholz-Platz@att.net (Rebholz-Platz@att.net) Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2003 09:32:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200307031632.h63GWMw4022939@Ag.arizona.edu> I have planted a snail vine about 2 months ago on the west side of my house - everything looks fine! However, I haven't removed the original stakes (3 wooden dowels). What next? I want it to grow up and then across the TOP of a stucco wall. Can I reposition those dowels to provide vertical support then string wire across the top to provide a horizontal "trellis"? How do I train the vine to grow where I want it? Thanks so much! From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Fri Jul 4 16:36:50 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2003 09:36:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gopher and ant problems Message-ID: <000c01c3424a$7980c080$8131db43@ibmbna6040> Try trapping the gophers, traps are available at most hardware stores. For the ants make up a citrus peel- water solution in your blender and pour the solution into the ant hill. During warm weather this works ok. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener Original Message----- From: rchoffman@webtv.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Thursday, July 03, 2003 8:57 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >how do I get rid of the ants and gophers. they have destroyed all my trees and shrubs. I have tried only organic ways but am tempted to try poison. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From ronan@citlink.net Fri Jul 4 16:31:58 2003 From: ronan@citlink.net (ronan@citlink.net) Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2003 09:31:58 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200307041631.h64GVww4026685@Ag.arizona.edu> I live in the sulpher springs valley 30 miles north of Douglas/mexican border. Can you please tell me what is the arizona zone for fruit trees etc. I've seen zones 1,2,3,4 listed From cstephens@infinet-is.com Fri Jul 4 21:27:45 2003 From: cstephens@infinet-is.com (Charles Stephens) Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2003 14:27:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gopher and ant problems References: <000c01c3424a$7980c080$8131db43@ibmbna6040> Message-ID: <000c01c34273$1d62eac0$3cda13d8@default> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C34238.6FCE51E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I agree with Rod, traps are the best way to control gophers. You can get = more info. on traps at: = http://ag.arizona.edu/yavapai/anr/hort/byg/archive/gopher2003.html Charlie Stephens Master Gardener Phoenix ----- Original Message -----=20 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net=20 To: rchoffman@webtv.net=20 Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Friday, July 04, 2003 9:36 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gopher and ant problems Try trapping the gophers, traps are available at most hardware stores. For the ants make up a citrus peel- water solution in your blender and = pour the solution into the ant hill. During warm weather this works ok. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener Original Message----- From: rchoffman@webtv.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Thursday, July 03, 2003 8:57 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >how do I get rid of the ants and gophers. they have destroyed all my = trees and shrubs. I have tried only organic ways but am tempted to try = poison. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C34238.6FCE51E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I agree with Rod, traps are the best = way to control=20 gophers. You can get more info. on traps at: http://ag.arizona.edu/yavapai/anr/hort/byg/archive/gopher2003.html=
 
Charlie Stephens
Master=20 Gardener
Phoenix
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 rodmmcq6@highstream.net
Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu =
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2003 = 9:36 AM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gopher = and ant=20 problems

Try trapping the gophers, traps are available at most = hardware=20 stores.
For the ants make up a citrus peel- water solution in your = blender=20 and pour
the solution into the ant hill. During warm weather this = works=20 ok.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master = Gardener
Original=20 Message-----
From: rchoffman@webtv.net <rchoffman@webtv.net>
To: = arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= =20 <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= >
Date:=20 Thursday, July 03, 2003 8:57 AM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question = from=20 Home-Hort WWW page


>how do I get rid of the ants and = gophers.=20 they have destroyed all my trees
and shrubs. I have tried only = organic ways=20 but am tempted to try=20 = poison.
>
>_______________________________________________>Arid_gardener=20 mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu=
>http://Ag.A= rizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>

____________= ___________________________________
Arid_gardener=20 mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu=
http://Ag.A= rizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C34238.6FCE51E0-- From cstephens@infinet-is.com Fri Jul 4 21:36:41 2003 From: cstephens@infinet-is.com (Charles Stephens) Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2003 14:36:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] AZ Climate Zones References: <200307041631.h64GVww4026685@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <001a01c34274$5ce11400$3cda13d8@default> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0017_01C34239.AF6E0CE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Info on AZ climate zones, including a map, can be found at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1169/. Charlie Stephens Master Gardener Phoenix ----- Original Message -----=20 From: ronan@citlink.net=20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Friday, July 04, 2003 9:31 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live in the sulpher springs valley 30 miles north of Douglas/mexican = border. Can you please tell me what is the arizona zone for fruit trees = etc. I've seen zones 1,2,3,4 listed _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener ------=_NextPart_000_0017_01C34239.AF6E0CE0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Info on AZ climate zones, including a = map, can be=20 found at:
http://ag.arizona.edu/= pubs/garden/az1169/.
 
Charlie Stephens
Master=20 Gardener
Phoenix
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 ronan@citlink.net
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu =
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2003 = 9:31 AM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Question from=20 Home-Hort WWW page

I live in the sulpher springs valley 30 miles north of=20 Douglas/mexican border. Can you please tell me what is the arizona = zone for=20 fruit trees etc.  I've seen zones 1,2,3,4=20 = listed

_______________________________________________
Arid_gar= dener=20 mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu=
http://Ag.A= rizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
------=_NextPart_000_0017_01C34239.AF6E0CE0-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Jul 5 16:05:31 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 05 Jul 2003 16:05:31 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Arizona Climate Zones Message-ID: The index that is usually quoted in nurseries and seed catalogs is the USDA Hardiness Zone. You are in USDA Zone 8. This index has limited applicability for us because it considers minimum temperature and does not take into account heat extremes. The best index to use is probably the Sunset Climate Zone. You are in Sunset Zone 10. Check the Sunset Western Garden Book for varieties that will perform in your area. (Most of our 'familiar' apples, for example, don't do well because they do not receive enough "chilling hours"). There are also indexes produced by the American Horticultural Society (Heat Index) and by Arizona (four zones) but I have not seen these quoted in any plants I've researched. Also check with your local Extension Office: Cochise County Cooperative Extension 450 S. Haskell Avenue Willcox, AZ 85643-2790 Phone: (520) 384-3594 Fax: (520) 384-3681 Satellite Office Location 1140 N. Colombo Sierra Vista, AZ 85635 Phone: (520) 458-8278 ext 2141 Fax: (520) 458-5823 or 626-2492 (Tucson) Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: ronan@citlink.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2003 09:31:58 -0700 (MST) > >I live in the sulpher springs valley 30 miles north of Douglas/mexican >border. Can you please tell me what is the arizona zone for fruit trees >etc. I've seen zones 1,2,3,4 listed > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus From jchapman166@cox.net Sat Jul 5 17:52:59 2003 From: jchapman166@cox.net (John Chapman) Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 10:52:59 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] date palm trees In-Reply-To: <00db01c3404b$88a140e0$ddb10343@bxn560> Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0023_01C342E3.996442C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jimmy, If anyone has a solution, Cohills will. http://www.cohills.com/aboutus.htm. 602) 266-046 (877) 709-2220 toll-free They have helped me remove every stubborn stain I had ( John Chapman -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Jimmy Eriksson Sent: Tuesday, July 01, 2003 8:39 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] date palm trees My neighbor has several Date palm trees in his yard, and recently had workers trimmed his trees. The workers dropped the leaves and palms both on his driveway and on my concrete driveway. Where they were dropped, the concrete now has brown stains covering an area about 10 x 20 feet. We used several stain removers with no results. Does anyone know a product or a method that will remove these stains. Thank you, Jimmy Eriksson ------=_NextPart_000_0023_01C342E3.996442C0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Jimmy,  If anyone = has a solution, Cohills will.  = http://www.cohills.com/aboutu= s.htm. 602) = 266-046  (877) 709-2220 toll-free  

They have helped me remove every stubborn stain I had           &nbs= p;            = ;            =             &= nbsp;           &n= bsp;  (

=

John = Chapman

 

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu = [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Jimmy Eriksson
Sent: Tuesday, July 01, = 2003 8:39 PM
To: = arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = date palm trees

 

My neighbor has several  Date palm trees in his yard, and = recently had workers  trimmed his trees.  The workers dropped = the leaves and palms both on his driveway and  on my concrete = driveway.   Where they were dropped, the concrete now has brown = stains covering  an area about 10 x 20 feet.   We used several stain removers with = no results.

Does anyone know a product or a method that will remove these = stains.

 

Thank you,

 

Jimmy Eriksson 

------=_NextPart_000_0023_01C342E3.996442C0-- From jhewson3@cox.net Sat Jul 5 21:25:07 2003 From: jhewson3@cox.net (jhewson3@cox.net) Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 14:25:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200307052125.h65LP7w4014736@Ag.arizona.edu> I'm very new here and don't know what grows in pots on patios. My patio gets direct morning sun until 11:30 am then shade the rest of the day. My pot of Vincas has done well. My pot of Zinnias has not. Is there a website dedicated to container gardening in Arizona for plants other than cactus? Thanks. From pamelatkoch@hotmail.com Sat Jul 5 21:34:04 2003 From: pamelatkoch@hotmail.com (Pamela) Date: Sat, 05 Jul 2003 14:34:04 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] care of lantana for better flowering Message-ID: <3F07444C.6060909@hotmail.com> I have several of the spreading yellow lantana that are common in Arizona now. However, my plants don't seem to do as well as those around town. Currently they are in part to full sun and receive 3 to 4 gallons of water each time they are watered via a drip system. Some are watered every 6 days, others every 4 days (they are on different systems). Anything I can do to promote better flowering? More/less water? More/less often? Fertlizer? Thanks! From WAMSBB@ITLNET.NET Sun Jul 6 15:10:17 2003 From: WAMSBB@ITLNET.NET (WAMSBB@ITLNET.NET) Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2003 08:10:17 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200307061510.h66FAHw4018692@Ag.arizona.edu> I BOUGHT A ZZ PLANT IN FEBRUARY 2003. ALTHOUGH IT IS DOING BEAUTIFULLY, I HAVE A FEW YELLOWING LEAVES AT THE TOP OF ONE OF THE STEMS. I HAVE REMOVED SEVERAL OF THE LEAVES, BUT A FEW DAYS LATER IT SEEMS AS THOUGH I HAVE SOME MORE. I HAVE THIS PLANT IN A VERY LOW LIGHT BATHROOM, AND SPRINKLE IT WITH FINGER TIP WATER ONLY ONCE A WEEK. ANY COMMENTS ON WHY SOME OF THE LEAVES ARE TURNING YELLOW? AM I GIVING IT TO MUCH WATER, IS THE BATHROOM THE WRONG PLACE FOR IT, IS IT TO HUMID IN THERE? THE PLANT IS CONSTANTLY SENDING UP NEW SPROUTS AND I LOVE THIS PLANT AND DONT WANT TO LOOSE IT. THANK YOU From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Sun Jul 6 19:35:01 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2003 12:35:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] care of lantana for better flowering Message-ID: <002e01c343f5$b21e8920$b62c0a3f@ibmbna6040> Pamela, Lantana does best when planted in full sun. It will flower best with a minimum amout of water and fertilizer. Over watering seems to be the problem. I would suggest that you increase the watering interval to at least 7 days. An excellent bulletin titled LANDSCAPE WATERING BY THE NUMBERS is available free from most nurseries and from your cities Water Conservation dept. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: Pamela To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Saturday, July 05, 2003 3:27 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] care of lantana for better flowering >I have several of the spreading yellow lantana that are common in >Arizona now. However, my plants don't seem to do as well as those around >town. Currently they are in part to full sun and receive 3 to 4 gallons >of water each time they are watered via a drip system. Some are watered >every 6 days, others every 4 days (they are on different systems). > >Anything I can do to promote better flowering? More/less water? >More/less often? Fertlizer? > >Thanks! > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From jbskyslave@cs.com Sun Jul 6 19:33:58 2003 From: jbskyslave@cs.com (jbskyslave@cs.com) Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2003 12:33:58 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200307061933.h66JXww4007672@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a ficus tree that was doing great up until about a month ago. I pruned it to thin it for the upcoming monsoons apprx. 6 weeks ago. It is not adding any new growth and the leaves are taking on a yellowish appearance along with brownish/black spots usually starting towards the tips. My other 3 ficus are doing fine. Do you have any solutions? I'm afaid I may end up losing it if it dosen't turn things around. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Jul 6 21:24:05 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 06 Jul 2003 21:24:05 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] ZZ plant Message-ID: I must admit I had never heard of a "ZZ Plant" so I turned to Google... Here is what I found: http://www.butlersnursery.com/zz/index.asp Zamioculcas zamiifolia is commonly called the "ZZ plant" in the trade. Interior plantscapers are finding the ZZ to be an exceptional performer in any light. Especially the low light levels where few plants perform well. This plant has very dark green, shiny foliage. In fact you would think that the plant has been shined. The ZZ carries a unique look which allows it to be used as a stand alone specimen but can also be used in mass plantings as well. Zamioculcas zamiifolia is different in a few ways than most foliage plants. It has an underground tuber like potato that stores water. This allows the plant the ability to go for months with no water at all. The thick leaves hold water as well as the fleshy stems. Light to moderate watering every 7-14 days will keep this plant at peak health. Do not allow a ZZ to sit in water or rot may occur. Pest are basically a non-issue with a ZZ. --------------------------------- http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/houseplt/msg0622010029442.html I've had 5 ZZ's for almost 3 years, I live in Arizona. During the summer, I water mine about every 2-3 weeks, (they're in 10 inch clay pots). In winter, I water approximately every 4-6 weeks. I have some at an west window (shade screens on window) and some at north window. I move them around, and they are all doing great!! ----------------- You may want to do a search with your favorite search engine for more information. Based on what I've read so far, you may be overwatering the plant since it is in a humid, low light situation. Also check that your soil has good drainage. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: WAMSBB@ITLNET.NET >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2003 08:10:17 -0700 (MST) > >I BOUGHT A ZZ PLANT IN FEBRUARY 2003. ALTHOUGH IT IS DOING BEAUTIFULLY, I >HAVE A FEW YELLOWING LEAVES AT THE TOP OF ONE OF THE STEMS. I HAVE REMOVED >SEVERAL OF THE LEAVES, BUT A FEW DAYS LATER IT SEEMS AS THOUGH I HAVE SOME >MORE. I HAVE THIS PLANT IN A VERY LOW LIGHT BATHROOM, AND SPRINKLE IT WITH >FINGER TIP WATER ONLY ONCE A WEEK. ANY COMMENTS ON WHY SOME OF THE LEAVES >ARE TURNING YELLOW? AM I GIVING IT TO MUCH WATER, IS THE BATHROOM THE >WRONG PLACE FOR IT, IS IT TO HUMID IN THERE? THE PLANT IS CONSTANTLY >SENDING UP NEW SPROUTS AND I LOVE THIS PLANT AND DONT WANT TO LOOSE IT. >THANK YOU > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Jul 6 21:50:06 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 06 Jul 2003 21:50:06 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Container gardening Message-ID: Here is some places to start: http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening/news/articles/6.3.html http://ag.arizona.edu/pinal/horticulture/homehorticulture/currentissues/containergardening/containergardening/ http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening/news/azdailystar/container_care.html http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening/news/articles/6.13.html Many plants can be grown in conttainers and your morning sun with afternoon \shade should be ideal for many different plants -- flowers, herbs, vegetables, ornamental grasses, dwarf trees, vines, etc. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: jhewson3@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 14:25:07 -0700 (MST) > >I'm very new here and don't know what grows in pots on patios. My patio >gets direct morning sun until 11:30 am then shade the rest of the day. My >pot of Vincas has done well. My pot of Zinnias has not. Is there a >website dedicated to container gardening in Arizona for plants other than >cactus? Thanks. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus From GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com Sun Jul 6 23:27:37 2003 From: GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com (GardenerGuy@GardenersCorner.com) Date: Sun, 06 Jul 2003 16:27:37 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] ZZ plant References: Message-ID: <3F08B069.7040001@GardenersCorner.com> Hi Guys, I had never heard of the ZZ plant until 3 or 4 months ago when I saw them in the Lowe's Houseplant section. I'm always trying houseplants outside to see how they do here. I have this one in a pot on the north side of the house under a green house canopy, and it does very well there. It gets early morning and late afternoon sun, and does not seem to burn. I have a picture of it at the link below, along with several other houseplants that I've found survive outside quite well in our summer heat, as long as they get mostly shade: http://www.gardenerscorner.com/HousePlants.html I water mine once a week in the summer, and have not experienced winter yet. I did some research on this plant and was told it likes lots of organics...so in the spring I gave it some fish emulsion, and it seemed to enjoy that. I've been considering buying more of them and trying them out in the yard under my mulberry tree. I'll wait to see how this one does through its first winter outdoors first. :) -- Chat with you later... Alan ----- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ----- Alan Zelhart GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- This tagline only to be removed by the consumer Linda Drew wrote: > > I must admit I had never heard of a "ZZ Plant" so I turned to Google... > Here is what I found: > > http://www.butlersnursery.com/zz/index.asp > Zamioculcas zamiifolia is commonly called the "ZZ plant" in the trade. > Interior plantscapers are finding the ZZ to be an exceptional > performer in any light. Especially the low light levels where few > plants perform well. > > This plant has very dark green, shiny foliage. In fact you would think > that the plant has been shined. The ZZ carries a unique look which > allows it to be used as a stand alone specimen but can also be used in > mass plantings as well. > > Zamioculcas zamiifolia is different in a few ways than most foliage > plants. It has an underground tuber like potato that stores water. > This allows the plant the ability to go for months with no water at > all. The thick leaves hold water as well as the fleshy stems. Light to > moderate watering every 7-14 days will keep this plant at peak health. > Do not allow a ZZ to sit in water or rot may occur. Pest are basically > a non-issue with a ZZ. > --------------------------------- > > http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/houseplt/msg0622010029442.html > I've had 5 ZZ's for almost 3 years, I live in Arizona. During the > summer, I water mine about every 2-3 weeks, (they're in 10 inch clay > pots). In winter, I water approximately every 4-6 weeks. I have some > at an west window (shade screens on window) and some at north window. > I move them around, and they are all doing great!! > ----------------- > > You may want to do a search with your favorite search engine for more > information. > Based on what I've read so far, you may be overwatering the plant > since it is in a > humid, low light situation. Also check that your soil has good drainage. > > Linda Drew > Master Gardener > >> From: WAMSBB@ITLNET.NET >> To: >> Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >> Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2003 08:10:17 -0700 (MST) >> >> I BOUGHT A ZZ PLANT IN FEBRUARY 2003. ALTHOUGH IT IS DOING >> BEAUTIFULLY, I HAVE A FEW YELLOWING LEAVES AT THE TOP OF ONE OF THE >> STEMS. I HAVE REMOVED SEVERAL OF THE LEAVES, BUT A FEW DAYS LATER IT >> SEEMS AS THOUGH I HAVE SOME MORE. I HAVE THIS PLANT IN A VERY LOW >> LIGHT BATHROOM, AND SPRINKLE IT WITH FINGER TIP WATER ONLY ONCE A >> WEEK. ANY COMMENTS ON WHY SOME OF THE LEAVES ARE TURNING YELLOW? AM >> I GIVING IT TO MUCH WATER, IS THE BATHROOM THE WRONG PLACE FOR IT, IS >> IT TO HUMID IN THERE? THE PLANT IS CONSTANTLY SENDING UP NEW SPROUTS >> AND I LOVE THIS PLANT AND DONT WANT TO LOOSE IT. >> THANK YOU >> From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Sun Jul 6 23:53:39 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2003 16:53:39 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ficus tree with yellow leaves Message-ID: <001101c34419$d3c24020$7ea9db43@ibmbna6040> Over watering or a planting hole that doesn't drain well can cause a trees leaves to yellow. Tree roots that stand in water will not last long. If you are watering the Ficus more often than once a week during the summer it is too often. An excellent booklet titled LANDSCAPE WATERING BY THE NUMBERS is available free from most nurseries. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: jbskyslave@cs.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Sunday, July 06, 2003 1:23 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I have a ficus tree that was doing great up until about a month ago. I pruned it to thin it for the upcoming monsoons apprx. 6 weeks ago. It is not adding any new growth and the leaves are taking on a yellowish appearance along with brownish/black spots usually starting towards the tips. My other 3 ficus are doing fine. Do you have any solutions? I'm afaid I may end up losing it if it dosen't turn things around. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rcook@leonagroupaz.com Mon Jul 7 04:29:23 2003 From: rcook@leonagroupaz.com (rcook@leonagroupaz.com) Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2003 21:29:23 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200307070429.h674TNw4021030@Ag.arizona.edu> I planted 4 24" box Chitalpa trees May 1. One seems to be dead with brown dead leaves still attached; however, new green tree sprouts are out of soil. The other 3 are growing but have brown spotches on almost all the leaves. Any idea what this is? Should I pull the semidead tree, prune, etc? Thank you. From kristinya@yahoo.com Mon Jul 7 06:03:41 2003 From: kristinya@yahoo.com (kristinya@yahoo.com) Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2003 23:03:41 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200307070603.h6763fw4027927@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a very tall palm tree in my backyard. I'm not sure what species it is, but I would like to donate it to any organization that my want it. Do you know of any school, nonprofit or other organization that may want a mature palm tree? Kristinia Peterson Mesa, AZ From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Mon Jul 7 19:32:22 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 12:32:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Chitalpa tree dying Message-ID: <001e01c344be$7e79eaa0$8531db43@ibmbna6040> The dead leaves hanging on to the tree is one of the symptoms of Texas Root Rot, however I doubt if the tree has been in the ground long enough for the TRR to kill it unless the tree was planted in a site where another tree had been killed by TRR. An other possibility is that the tree did not receive adequate water when it was planted or after it was planted. Further, did the planting hole have adequate drainage ? Was there caliche or compacted soil where the tree was planted ? Have you contacted the nursery where the tree was purchased to get their input ? If you will get back to me with answers to my questions and info about how often and how much water has been applied I'll be able to narrow down the possibilities. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist -----Original Message----- From: rcook@leonagroupaz.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, July 07, 2003 6:15 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I planted 4 24" box Chitalpa trees May 1. One seems to be dead with brown dead leaves still attached; however, new green tree sprouts are out of soil. The other 3 are growing but have brown spotches on almost all the leaves. Any idea what this is? Should I pull the semidead tree, prune, etc? >Thank you. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From dawold@earthlink.net Mon Jul 7 21:16:42 2003 From: dawold@earthlink.net (dawold@earthlink.net) Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 14:16:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200307072116.h67LGgw4018255@Ag.arizona.edu> Is there a way to propagate scheffelara plants? Maybe by root cuttings? I have a plant that is getting pretty leggy, and would like to start several smaller ones. I got a tip at one of the extension service classes for propagating umbrella grass that works like a charm. If interested. e-mail me at dawold@earthlink.net. Doug From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Mon Jul 7 22:54:43 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 15:54:43 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plant Propagation Message-ID: <000e01c344da$c3043ce0$1d2c0a3f@ibmbna6040> Doug, You will find great info about plant propagation on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/propagation/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: dawold@earthlink.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, July 07, 2003 2:54 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Is there a way to propagate scheffelara plants? Maybe by root cuttings? I have a plant that is getting pretty leggy, and would like to start several smaller ones. > >I got a tip at one of the extension service classes for propagating umbrella grass that works like a charm. If interested. e-mail me at dawold@earthlink.net. > >Doug > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From bonniesh1@aol.com Mon Jul 7 23:02:52 2003 From: bonniesh1@aol.com (bonniesh1@aol.com) Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 16:02:52 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200307072302.h67N2qw4008457@Ag.arizona.edu> i have a turkey fig tree that is about 4 or 5 years old... it is about 10 feet tall at present time and has a large crop of figs. The figs do not seem to be ripening. The ones that do appear to be getting a little ripe seem to just dry up on the tree. What am I doing wrong? From plantlady100@yahoo.com Tue Jul 8 00:58:18 2003 From: plantlady100@yahoo.com (ingrid swenson) Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 17:58:18 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Saintpaulia (African Violet) Message-ID: <20030708005818.71082.qmail@web14710.mail.yahoo.com> --0-290049772-1057625898=:70898 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Help! One of my African Violets has suddenly turned limp. It has just finished a prolific blooming cycle and seems to be spent. I have checked in my two African Violet books and could not find anything that seemed to fit the problem. It is not turning black, does not appear to have any spots or other problems on the leaves. I water it along with my other violets about every three days and the others seem to be thriving. I have had this violet about a year (I inherited it and it was in poor condition when I adopted it) and have nursed it into the aforementioned blooming cycle. It has never been repotted since I have had it. Ingrid --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month! --0-290049772-1057625898=:70898 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Help!  One of my African Violets has suddenly turned limp.  It has just finished a prolific blooming cycle and seems to be spent.  I have checked in my two African Violet books and could not find anything that seemed to fit the problem.  It is not turning black, does not appear to have any spots or other problems on the leaves.  I water it along with my other violets about every three days and the others seem to be thriving.  I have had this violet about a year (I inherited it and it was in poor condition when I adopted it) and have nursed it into the aforementioned blooming cycle.  It has never been repotted since I have had it.
 
Ingrid

Do you Yahoo!?
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month! --0-290049772-1057625898=:70898-- From sbarvian@prodigy.net Tue Jul 8 02:17:50 2003 From: sbarvian@prodigy.net (Scott Barvian) Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 19:17:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen palm question Message-ID: <014e01c344f7$22659780$be094bab@lbmelman> My 10-yr-old queen palms have a new growth emerging - not from the center of the bud where new fronds grow, but toward the outside of the bud. I don't know how to describe it any better than that. It almost looks like a new frond, but it seems thicker and shorter. Any ideas? From Pauline Marx" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001F_01C344BF.672AB400 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Limp leaves on Saintpaulia are an indication of crown rot disease caused = by overwatering and/or wide fluctuations in temperature. =20 This is a difficult disase to control and it is infectious; the best = plan is to remove and destroy the plant as soon as possible. Pauline Marx, Special Contributor Prodigy Garden Group Master Gardener, Maricopa County Arizona ------=_NextPart_000_001F_01C344BF.672AB400 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Limp leaves on Saintpaulia are an indication of crown rot disease=20 caused  by overwatering and/or wide fluctuations in = temperature. =20
This is a difficult disase to control and it is infectious; the = best plan=20 is to remove and destroy the plant as soon as possible.

Pauline Marx, Special Contributor Prodigy  Garden =20 Group
Master Gardener, Maricopa County Arizona
------=_NextPart_000_001F_01C344BF.672AB400-- From emmo320@webtv.net Tue Jul 8 05:30:28 2003 From: emmo320@webtv.net (Judy - NV) Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 22:30:28 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Spanish Bayonet Problem Message-ID: <11718-3F0A56F4-8145@storefull-2233.public.lawson.webtv.net> My Spanish Bayonet's leaves are yellowing. The leaf looks like the green has been sucked out of it in areas. I'm sure it is an insect or disease. It does not look like a water problem. I live in Henderson, NV. It does sit near the spa and has been splashed by youngster who thinks it's fun. The other one is further away and also shows some of the same effect. Judy-NV From gfgranger@cox.net Tue Jul 8 08:30:52 2003 From: gfgranger@cox.net (gfgranger@cox.net) Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 01:30:52 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200307080830.h688Uqw4006914@Ag.arizona.edu> I am thinking of planting Star Jasmine to cover a four foot high stucco wall that is a North-South wall and gets full sun all afternoon. I would like to know if it will take the full sun? I plan on covering the wall with a trellis if it is acceptable because I know it will not climb without a trellis. Is there any other plant that might I might consider to serve the purpose of covering this wall? Thanks for your help. George Granger From 4landm@cox.net Tue Jul 8 17:00:34 2003 From: 4landm@cox.net (Lee and Myrna) Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 10:00:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hibiscus Message-ID: <002101c34572$726adc60$79246244@ph.cox.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01C34537.C5D9A9C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have 3 (alyogyne huegelii) planted among cape honeysuckle (that is = looking green and healthy) two of my AH(Blue Hibiscus) appear to be = dying with the heat, changing to yellow leaves and losing the green = coloring! The third which is planted on the north side of a tree = appears to be doing fine. I also have 3 or 4 lavenders that are not = doing too well, and they appear to be dying also, they are planted on = the east side of my house and receiving afternoon shade. Our = temperature has been in the 100's for at least 3 weeks and I wonder if = that is simply the problem? What if anything can I do to stimulate new growth to these plants? Lee...... ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01C34537.C5D9A9C0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I have 3 (alyogyne huegelii) planted among cape honeysuckle (that = is=20 looking green and healthy) two of my AH(Blue Hibiscus) appear to be = dying with=20 the heat, changing to yellow leaves and losing the green coloring!  = The=20 third which is planted on the north side of a tree appears to be doing=20 fine.  I also have 3 or 4 lavenders that are not doing too well, = and they=20 appear to be dying also, they are planted on the east side of my house = and=20 receiving afternoon shade.  Our temperature has been in the 100's = for at=20 least 3 weeks and I wonder if that is simply the problem?
 
   What if anything can I do to stimulate new growth to = these=20 plants?
 
Lee......
------=_NextPart_000_001E_01C34537.C5D9A9C0-- From fduanem@msn.com Tue Jul 8 17:22:21 2003 From: fduanem@msn.com (fduanem@msn.com) Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 10:22:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200307081722.h68HMLw4002846@Ag.arizona.edu> I am making a raised vegetablegarden area and I need to know ratio for top soil/mulch/sand/fertilizer etc. From Pauline Marx" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0035_01C3453E.24B2EAA0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Propagation of Schleffera plants is difficult but not impossible.=20 Take stem cuttings in summer. Use a rooting hormone (available at garden = centers) and provide bottom heat. It can also be propagated by air layering, but this is best done in = early Spring. To air layer, scrape away a bit of the bark to make a wound all around = the stem about 10 inches from the top. Dust the wound with a rooting = compound such as Rootone. Moisten a handful of sphagnum moss, squeeze = out the moisture, then wrap the moss around the branch. Wrap a piece of = black polyethylene plastic around the moss. Seal it tightly on all = sides with tape. When roots are well formed, cut off the branch just = below the bag, then carefully remove the plastic sheet. Pot up the new = plant, then cut back some top growth so that the new roots can support = it. Pauline Marx, Special Contributor Prodigy Garden Group Master Gardener, Maricopa County Arizona ------=_NextPart_000_0035_01C3453E.24B2EAA0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Propagation of Schleffera plants is difficult but not impossible. =
 
Take stem cuttings in summer. Use a rooting hormone (available at = garden=20 centers) and provide bottom heat.

It can also be propagated by = air=20 layering, but this is best done in  early Spring.

To air = layer,=20 scrape away a bit of the bark to make  a wound all around the stem = about 10=20 inches from the top.  Dust the wound with a rooting compound such = as=20 Rootone.  Moisten a handful of sphagnum moss, squeeze out the = moisture,=20 then wrap the moss around the branch.  Wrap a piece of  black=20 polyethylene plastic around the moss.  Seal it tightly on all sides = with=20 tape.  When roots are well formed, cut off the branch just below = the bag,=20 then carefully remove the plastic sheet.  Pot up  the new = plant, then=20 cut back some top growth so that the new roots can support = it.

Pauline=20 Marx, Special Contributor Prodigy  Garden  Group
Master = Gardener,=20 Maricopa County Arizona
------=_NextPart_000_0035_01C3453E.24B2EAA0-- From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Tue Jul 8 22:38:08 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 15:38:08 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Vines for western facing wall Message-ID: <002201c345a2$7e5dc980$f9a9db43@ibmbna6040> George, Sorry but the Star Jasmine will not handle the heat of the hot afternoon sun on a west facing wall. I've had good luck with the Cat's Claw which will climb on a stucco wall with out a trellis. Queen's Wreath will also handle the PM sun. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: gfgranger@cox.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Tuesday, July 08, 2003 6:40 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I am thinking of planting Star Jasmine to cover a four foot high stucco wall that is a North-South wall and gets full sun all afternoon. I would like to know if it will take the full sun? I plan on covering the wall with a trellis if it is acceptable because I know it will not climb without a trellis. Is there any other plant that might I might consider to serve the purpose of covering this wall? Thanks for your help. George Granger > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From jackievance@webtv.net Wed Jul 9 02:33:39 2003 From: jackievance@webtv.net (jackievance@webtv.net) Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 19:33:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200307090233.h692Xdw4004932@Ag.arizona.edu> I have been unable to find out anything about sloe berries. If you could furnish me with any information on this and possibly a picture of the berry and the bush, I would appreciate it. I have a huge bush that I think may be one. Thank you. From mary_schillinger@yahoo.com Wed Jul 9 04:24:08 2003 From: mary_schillinger@yahoo.com (mary_schillinger@yahoo.com) Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 21:24:08 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200307090424.h694O8w4018105@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a huge pine tree and gravel (3/4 inch stone) on my back lawn. All of a sudden I have noticed a lot if pine needles have dropped. I went outside with a wet/dry vac and expected to pick these all up. These pine needles have wedged themselves underneath the rocks. What was suppose to be a 1 hour job is still incomplete. Can anyone tell me the best way to remove these pine needles and keep them removed ? Thanks, Mary From supenski@yahoo.com Wed Jul 9 07:22:17 2003 From: supenski@yahoo.com (supenski@yahoo.com) Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 00:22:17 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200307090722.h697MHw4003425@Ag.arizona.edu> Hello, I have a large number of cicadas in my back yard ever year around this time. I would very much like to get rid of them, but haven't found much information. Any ideas? thanks, Dave Supenski From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Jul 9 13:19:03 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2003 13:19:03 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] sloe berries Message-ID: According to the dictionary, sloe berries are the small plums of Prunus spinosa or various other wild plums; the name is also used for an eastern hawthorn. I have heard the term used in reference to juniper berries also in the southwest. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: jackievance@webtv.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 19:33:39 -0700 (MST) > >I have been unable to find out anything about sloe berries. If you could >furnish me with any information on this and possibly a picture of the berry >and the bush, I would appreciate it. I have a huge bush that I think may be >one. Thank you. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Help STOP SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From lindasacredheart57santoro@att.net Wed Jul 9 15:38:00 2003 From: lindasacredheart57santoro@att.net (Linda R Santoro) Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2003 08:38:00 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Need to ask about maturing melons Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20030709083728.01d53ff0@ag.arizona.edu> Good morning, Please direct this to the correct mail address to answer our question. Thank you. We have one honeydew melon on the vine. How do we tell when it is ready to harvest? We have no idea when it was set or how long the growing time frame should be observed. John & Linda Santoro 480-998-5241 Linda R Santoro From plantperson@prodigy.net Wed Jul 9 18:04:39 2003 From: plantperson@prodigy.net (plantperson) Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 11:04:39 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sloe Berries References: <200307090233.h692Xdw4004932@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <001501c34644$9369a2c0$2c114bab@z3j2h2> Sloes are the fruit of the blackthorn , Prunus spinosa,which is a medium-sized shrub, many branches, very thorny, with blackish bark. The fruits are black ovids with a bloom the resembles plums, and hard juicy green flesh that is usually far to astringent to eat raw. Sloe berries are used for liquers, especially gin-based ones. Sloe berries are very hardy and good at making wind breaks. they like an open site and thrive on quite poor soils. However, they need a cool period and would not get enough cold days to grow well here and produce berries. Pauline Marx, Special Contributor Prodigy Garden Group Master Gardener, Maricopa County Arizona ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2003 7:33 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I have been unable to find out anything about sloe berries. If you could furnish me with any information on this and possibly a picture of the berry and the bush, I would appreciate it. I have a huge bush that I think may be one. Thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From olga@torosay1.fsnet.co.uk Wed Jul 9 20:14:13 2003 From: olga@torosay1.fsnet.co.uk (olga@torosay1.fsnet.co.uk) Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 13:14:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200307092014.h69KEDw4002634@Ag.arizona.edu> crops planted in the vicinity of certain factories have been observed to show more rapid and prolific growth than planted in identical soil elsewhere From rita.lundahl@robson.com Wed Jul 9 20:42:45 2003 From: rita.lundahl@robson.com (rita.lundahl@robson.com) Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 13:42:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200307092042.h69Kgjw4008451@Ag.arizona.edu> My lawn needs dethatching - can I do it now? From helen.c.whelan@intel.com Wed Jul 9 20:58:43 2003 From: helen.c.whelan@intel.com (Whelan, Helen C) Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2003 13:58:43 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gardeninig lessons Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20030709135818.01d73f50@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_3449770==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed I moved to Arizona 2 years ago from Ireland and just recently moved into my new home in Gilbert. I m interested in learning about gardening in the southwest (and in general) as this is my first home. Can you advise where I might obtain gardening classes opportunities preferably evening time or week-ends many thanks Helen Whelan FCED Service Planning "Whelan, Helen C" --=====================_3449770==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
 

 

I moved to Arizona 2 years ago from Ireland and just recently moved into my

new home in Gilbert. I m interested in learning about gardening in the southwest

(and in general) as this is my first home. Can you advise where I might obtain

gardening classes opportunities preferably evening time or week-ends

 

many thanks

 

Helen Whelan

FCED Service Planning

"Whelan, Helen C" <helen.c.whelan@intel.com>

 
 --=====================_3449770==_.ALT-- From bethdambrow@yahoo.com Wed Jul 9 22:57:16 2003 From: bethdambrow@yahoo.com (bethdambrow@yahoo.com) Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 15:57:16 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200307092257.h69MvGw4002110@Ag.arizona.edu> I purchased a Echeveria Mexican Hen & Chicks this spring. I potted it in succulent potting soil in a shallow terra cotta pot and have it on my patio. It bloomed fine all spring and it has 3 'pups'. Yesteday I noticed that the center of it has turned black and appears to be dying. What am I doing wrong? I water it once a week. Thank you. From swilliams@gaineyranchca.com Thu Jul 10 16:49:21 2003 From: swilliams@gaineyranchca.com (swilliams@gaineyranchca.com) Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 09:49:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200307101649.h6AGnLw4003017@Ag.arizona.edu> Looking for information and help in controlling or eliminating rabbits on a large scale basis in our landscape common areas at multiple subdivisions. Thank you in advance for your help! Scott From csdevane@yahoo.com Thu Jul 10 18:35:57 2003 From: csdevane@yahoo.com (csdevane@yahoo.com) Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 11:35:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200307101835.h6AIZvw4005613@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a bed of Bearded Iris that is being invaded with grass. I want to dig up the bulbs to REALLY clean out that flower bed. When is the right time to unearth Iris? Also, I don't know if there is a "right" way to deadhead Iris. Thanks, Carolyn From JRMCD64@MSN.COM Thu Jul 10 20:28:21 2003 From: JRMCD64@MSN.COM (JRMCD64@MSN.COM) Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 13:28:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200307102028.h6AKSLw4010018@Ag.arizona.edu> WHY WOULD SOME OF MY CUCUMBERS HAVE SUCH A SOUR TASTE? THANK YOU From ssmith709@cox.net Thu Jul 10 20:35:55 2003 From: ssmith709@cox.net (ssmith709@cox.net) Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 13:35:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200307102035.h6AKZtw4012387@Ag.arizona.edu> trimming an australian bottlebrush tree when and when not too. They are large and old From dougtomdorine2@earthlink.net Thu Jul 10 20:37:43 2003 From: dougtomdorine2@earthlink.net (dougtomdorine2@earthlink.net) Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 13:37:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200307102037.h6AKbhw4012874@Ag.arizona.edu> My hibiscus bushes are failing from the heat, I assume. Can I prune them back really far and hope they will come back when the weather cools? Also, can I cut the tops off my iris now that the blooms have died and the leaves are turning brown. Thanks for your help From delsea@qwest.net Thu Jul 10 20:55:57 2003 From: delsea@qwest.net (JJE) Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 13:55:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] pineapple guava Message-ID: <00b301c34725$a974ec00$633c10ac@gr.casino> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00B0_01C346EA.FCA61420 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable When & what type of fertilizer do I use for a pineapple quava? Are they = considered citrus? Thanks ------=_NextPart_000_00B0_01C346EA.FCA61420 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
When & what type of fertilizer do I = use for a=20 pineapple quava?  Are they considered citrus?=20 Thanks
------=_NextPart_000_00B0_01C346EA.FCA61420-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Jul 10 22:34:57 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 22:34:57 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] pineapple guava Message-ID: Pineapple guava (Feijoa sellowiana) is a versatile plant that does well in heat, cold, and poor soil with little water. Maintenance is minimal (Duffield & Jones, "Plants for Dry Climates"). I didn't find any reference for fertilizer needs, so I suspect it would do well with a light general-purpose fertilizer in the spring. Too much water can cause iron chlorosis. It does not have the fertilizer needs of citrus. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "JJE" >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] pineapple guava >Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 13:55:57 -0700 > >When & what type of fertilizer do I use for a pineapple quava? Are they >considered citrus? Thanks _________________________________________________________________ Help STOP SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Jul 10 22:38:38 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 22:38:38 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] cucumbers sour Message-ID: Response to a similar question: According to George Brookbank, in his book Desert Gardening, "Due to the hot weather, cucumbers begin to decline even in the shade. The summer sun is too fierce. If your plants are producing some fruit they are likely to be bitter. No one is quite sure why, and there is no antidote. Some kinds are worse than others. The best variety for the desert is Armenian. Its a big fruit, though its better not to let it grow big - and sometimes the skin is thick. All other kinds are a summer disappointment." >From: JRMCD64@msn.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 13:28:21 -0700 (MST) > >WHY WOULD SOME OF MY CUCUMBERS HAVE SUCH A SOUR TASTE? THANK YOU > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From carol_jjohnson@hotmail.com Thu Jul 10 22:56:53 2003 From: carol_jjohnson@hotmail.com (carol_jjohnson@hotmail.com) Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 15:56:53 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200307102256.h6AMurw4014579@Ag.arizona.edu> We planted an ocotillo approximately 3 1/2 weeks ago. We've watered it every day and gave it one Vit. B1 treatment, but as yet see no signs of life. How long does it usually take after planting for it to "green up"? Thank you very much1 Carol Johnson From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Jul 11 00:53:48 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 00:53:48 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] ocotillo care Message-ID: Was the ocotillo bareroot or container-grown? These are treated differently and it would help us better answer your question. Best to plant this shrub (its not a cactus) in the fall when temperatures are cooler and the Ocotillo flat-headed larvae borers are not active. Remember this plants does not produce root hairs, so they take a long time to establish after bare-root planting. If any roots are broken or frayed at transplanting, make clean cuts to remove damaged portion. Dust roots with sulfur prior to planting to prevent root rot. Do not mulch or fertilize plants. Provide with well draining soil and avoid garden locations where plants receive excess moisture. If watering with drip irrigation place emitters at least 2 feet from base of plant. (Information taken from a book called Pruning, Planting and Care by Eric A. Johnson). Answer to a similar question: I water our ocotillo rarely, and then only to supplement the rainfall we receive in Tucson. At most, I water the plant five or six times a year. In between rains/waterings, you would swear the plant was quite dead, except that the wands remain flexible. I do not fertilize this plant, and have been told that such is unnecessary for a native plant. The flowers are seasonal, showing in April, and are an annual event. I have seen mine bloom without a single leaf visible and when the wands are thick with leaves. It seems to make no difference - except that the leafless flowering is such a strange sight. By the way, hummingbirds love the blossoms. I have seen ocotillos kept perpetually in leaf by regular watering, but have read that this is not recommended, as the roots in moist soil might rot. And in fact, I have seen such ocotillos blown over in strong winds on a number of occasions, an indication that the root systems were not robust enough to hold the plant upright. To briefly summarize, do not mulch, do not fertilize, do not use vitamins; water sparingly to keep the soil moist - not wet, until established. Ocotillo are naturally leafless most of the year; the whole plant looks 'dead' until rain stimulates leaves to sprout. These leaves die and drop quickly when soil moisture dries out. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: carol_jjohnson@hotmail.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 15:56:53 -0700 (MST) > >We planted an ocotillo approximately 3 1/2 weeks ago. We've watered it >every day and gave it one Vit. B1 treatment, but as yet see no signs of >life. How long does it usually take after planting for it to "green up"? >Thank you very much1 >Carol Johnson > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Fri Jul 11 22:39:18 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 15:39:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf Dethatching Message-ID: <003801c347fd$4491a700$f12c0a3f@ibmbna6040> Summer is the preferred time to dethatch turf rather than to wait until time to overseed. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: rita.lundahl@robson.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Wednesday, July 09, 2003 2:51 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >My lawn needs dethatching - can I do it now? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From watsontl@mindspring.com Sat Jul 12 16:03:28 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2003 09:03:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] cucumbers sour References: Message-ID: <004401c3488f$d19aeb60$aa68b83f@S0029317241> The sourness is the result of a chemical cucumbers produce when under stress. (I think it's called cucurbitacin.) They also do this if attacked by insect pests or diseases. The first time I experienced this sour/bitter taste, in a variety called Suyo Long, the plants were being attacked by squash vine borers. I was at first quite pleased that the vines were still flowering and producing, in spite of the infestation. Then I tasted the fruit. Dare I say it was a bitter disappointment? Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Linda Drew" To: ; Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 3:38 PM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] cucumbers sour > > Response to a similar question: > > According to George Brookbank, in his book Desert Gardening, "Due to the hot > weather, cucumbers begin to decline even in the > shade. The summer sun is too fierce. If your plants are producing some > fruit they are likely to be bitter. No one is quite sure > why, and there is no antidote. Some kinds are worse than others. The best > variety for the desert is Armenian. Its a big fruit, > though its better not to let it grow big - and sometimes the skin is thick. > All other kinds are a summer disappointment." > > >From: JRMCD64@msn.com > >To: > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 13:28:21 -0700 (MST) > > > >WHY WOULD SOME OF MY CUCUMBERS HAVE SUCH A SOUR TASTE? THANK YOU > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Arid_gardener mailing list > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _________________________________________________________________ > STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* > http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From watsontl@mindspring.com Sat Jul 12 16:20:53 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2003 09:20:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200307101835.h6AIZvw4005613@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <007a01c34891$91a7b1d0$aa68b83f@S0029317241> Here in Tucson we dig and divide irises in late summer/early fall. I did mine near the end of September last year. As for deadheading, I go down as far as I can (to the ground where possible) and snip the old flower stalk off. Follow the links below for more details in iris care in our region. Tom http://www.tucsoniris.org/index.html http://www.suncountryiris.org/ ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2003 11:35 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I have a bed of Bearded Iris that is being invaded with grass. I want to dig up the bulbs to REALLY clean out that flower bed. When is the right time to unearth Iris? Also, I don't know if there is a "right" way to deadhead Iris. > Thanks, > Carolyn > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From m4g4@hotmail.com Sat Jul 12 22:05:51 2003 From: m4g4@hotmail.com (m4g4@hotmail.com) Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2003 15:05:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200307122205.h6CM5pw4009473@Ag.arizona.edu> My 6 Shamel Ash trees leaves are drying out(3 months old from 24" boxes) . I have them on a drip line that waters them at a rate of 5gph for 2 hours every 3rd day. the ground is moist, and I have 2" of mulch on top. What sould I be doing? From wobbles@citlink.net Sun Jul 13 01:52:11 2003 From: wobbles@citlink.net (Stacy) Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2003 18:52:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] ivy Message-ID: <000201c348e1$642fedd0$6bc643d8@cindiandstacy> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0003_01C348A6.B7D115D0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_001_0004_01C348A6.B7D115D0" ------=_NextPart_001_0004_01C348A6.B7D115D0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello! I live in NorthWestern Arizona, and am actively looking for a strong, semi-fast growing ivy in which to cover my metal fence. Can you suggest a certain type, and maybe where I might purchase something like this? I appreciate any assistance you can offer! Thank you, Stacy ------=_NextPart_001_0004_01C348A6.B7D115D0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Message

Hello!

I live in NorthWestern Arizona, and = am=20 actively looking for a strong, semi-fast growing ivy in which to cover = my metal=20 fence. Can you suggest a certain type, and maybe where I might purchase=20 something like this? I appreciate any assistance you can = offer!

Thank you,

Stacy

------=_NextPart_001_0004_01C348A6.B7D115D0-- ------=_NextPart_000_0003_01C348A6.B7D115D0 Content-Type: image/gif; name="Blank Bkgrd.gif" Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 Content-ID: <007065101@13072003-2941> R0lGODlhLQAtAID/AP////f39ywAAAAALQAtAEACcAxup8vtvxKQsFon6d02898pGkgiYoCm6sq2 7iqWcmzOsmeXeA7uPJd5CYdD2g9oPF58ygqz+XhCG9JpJGmlYrPXGlfr/Yo/VW45e7amp2tou/lW xo/zX513z+Vt+1n/tiX2pxP4NUhy2FM4xtjIUQAAOw== ------=_NextPart_000_0003_01C348A6.B7D115D0-- From dodojd@msn.com Sun Jul 13 02:35:27 2003 From: dodojd@msn.com (dodojd@msn.com) Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2003 19:35:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200307130235.h6D2ZRw4028251@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a natal plum plant in the ground on the north side of my house in Phoenix. This plant is quite large and expansive. Lately, portions of it are dying. I prune the dead branches and foliage out, but it just keeps spreading. The leaves start drying up and then turn completely brown. I'm wondering if it's a moisture problem or a disease problem. Thx for your help. From fpidgeon@msn.com Sun Jul 13 04:43:19 2003 From: fpidgeon@msn.com (fpidgeon@msn.com) Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2003 21:43:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200307130443.h6D4hJw4008559@Ag.arizona.edu> What is best way to control earwigs in the house? From kgarby@cox.net Sat Jul 12 00:29:18 2003 From: kgarby@cox.net (kgarby) Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 17:29:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ficus nitida dying Message-ID: <00e901c3480c$a1dc90a0$6401a8c0@TELERAD> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00EA_01C347D1.F57DB8A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I am having what appears to be a TRR problem, every 3-5 days I have another brown tree. I have lost 5 of 40. Can TRR be stopped? What causes it? What kind of tree can I plant in its place?? Ken Garby > The very rapid colapse of your Ficus nitidas sounds as if the cause may be a > toxic chemical. > Have you watered the trees with pool backwash water ? > Does your pool have a leak ? > Has a weed killer been used in your yard ? > Texas Root Rot will usually cause a rapid decline but I've not seen a case > where death was as fast as you describe, usually over a period of a few > days. With TRR the leaves will usually hang onto the tree. Positive ID can > only be made by a lab exam. If you think that TRR might be the problem, dig > up samples of roots ( finger size by 8 or 10 inches long ), do not wash, > place in a plastic bag, refrigerate and take the samples to U. of A., > Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040. > > Good luck. > > Rod McKusick > Master Gardener ------=_NextPart_000_00EA_01C347D1.F57DB8A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable 
I am having what appears to be a TRR problem, =
every 3-5 days I have another brown tree.  I have lost 5 of 40.  Can TRR be stopped?  What causes it?  What kind of tree can I plant =
in its place??
 
Ken =
Garby
 
 
> The very rapid colapse of your Ficus nitidas sounds =
as if the cause may be =
a
> toxic =
chemical.
> Have you watered the trees with pool =
backwash water =
?
> Does your pool have a leak =
?
> Has a weed killer been used in your yard =
?
> =
Texas Root Rot will usually cause a rapid decline =
but I've not seen a case
> where death was =
as fast as you describe, usually over a period of a =
few
> days. With TRR =
the leaves will usually hang onto the tree. Positive ID =
can
> only be made by =
a lab exam. If you think that TRR might be the =
problem,
dig
=
> up samples of =
roots ( finger size by 8 or 10 inches long ), do not =
wash,
> place in a plastic bag,  =
refrigerate and take the samples to =
U. of A.<=
span
style=3D'font-style:italic'>,
> =
Maricopa County=
 Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, =
Phoenix<=
span
style=3D'font-style:italic'> =
85040.
>
> Good = luck.
>
> Rod McKusick<= pre>> Master = Gardener

 

 

 

------=_NextPart_000_00EA_01C347D1.F57DB8A0-- From oravetz@cox.net Sun Jul 13 03:09:26 2003 From: oravetz@cox.net (Jim Oravetz) Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2003 20:09:26 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Shamel Ash watering In-Reply-To: <200307122205.h6CM5pw4009473@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <5.2.0.9.2.20030712194913.00b1e620@pop.west.cox.net> --=====================_44873935==.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed A 'rule of thumb' for watering newly planted trees and shrubs; a five gallon size plant should get five gallons of water at each watering. A fifteen gallon size needs fifteen gallons and your new 24" box trees would like 24-25 gallons at each watering. This method supplies enough water to wet the entire root ball plus some of the surrounding soil. With the surrounding soil moist, roots are encouraged to grow out of the original root ball and into the native soil. Right now with only 10 gallons of water being applied, just the upper portion on the root ball is getting wet. How often you water will depend on your soil type, how well it drains and if caliche is present under the root system. After you increase the amount of water applied, continue to water now for three times a week for about 1 1/2 to 2 weeks. Reduce the frequency to twice a week until fall. Watch your trees carefully and if additional leaf drying continues, go back to three times a week. JimO. At 03:05 PM 7/12/2003 -0700, you wrote: >My 6 Shamel Ash trees leaves are drying out(3 months old from 24" boxes) . >I have them on a drip line that waters them at a rate of 5gph for 2 hours >every 3rd day. the ground is moist, and I have 2" of mulch on top. What >sould I be doing? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener --=====================_44873935==.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" A 'rule of thumb' for watering newly planted trees and shrubs; a five gallon size plant should get five gallons of water at each watering. A fifteen gallon size needs fifteen gallons and your new 24" box trees would like 24-25 gallons at each watering. This method supplies enough water to wet the entire root ball plus some of the surrounding soil. With the surrounding soil moist, roots are encouraged to grow out of the original root ball and into the native soil. Right now with only 10 gallons of water being applied, just the upper portion on the root ball is getting wet. How often you water will depend on your soil type, how well it drains and if caliche is present under the root system.  After you increase the amount of water applied, continue to water now for three times a week for about 1 1/2 to 2 weeks. Reduce the frequency to twice a week until fall. Watch your trees carefully and if additional leaf drying continues, go back to three times a week.
JimO.


At 03:05 PM 7/12/2003 -0700, you wrote:
My 6 Shamel Ash trees leaves are drying out(3 months old from 24" boxes) . I have them on a drip line that waters them at a rate of 5gph for 2 hours every 3rd day. the ground is moist, and I have 2" of mulch on top. What sould I be doing?

_______________________________________________
Arid_gardener mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
--=====================_44873935==.ALT-- From missphx@cox.net Sun Jul 13 21:11:43 2003 From: missphx@cox.net (missphx@cox.net) Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 14:11:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200307132111.h6DLBhw4007161@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a small orange tree. Many of the leaves are yellow and curled. I do not notice green viens. I have kept it fertilized and several weeks ago also applied iron. How much water should this tree receive and how often? Once it reached over 100 degrees, I have been watering it twice per week with a hose -- is this too much? This is the first year it is bearing fruit. It was planted (in my yard) about two years ago. From gmyers_az@yahoo.com Mon Jul 14 05:01:43 2003 From: gmyers_az@yahoo.com (gmyers_az@yahoo.com) Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 22:01:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200307140501.h6E51hw4012223@Ag.arizona.edu> What type of soil and conditions should I provide for herbs if I want to grow them all year around ? Should I bring them inside in the summer ? Pots ? What size ? raised bed ? What works best ? thanks ! From GFabrici@aol.com Mon Jul 14 16:14:56 2003 From: GFabrici@aol.com (GFabrici@aol.com) Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 09:14:56 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200307141614.h6EGEuw4005799@Ag.arizona.edu> How far down can I prune a 15 foot tall,15 year old star jasmine and when? From Huw_Williams@Vanguard.com Mon Jul 14 17:18:35 2003 From: Huw_Williams@Vanguard.com (Huw_Williams@Vanguard.com) Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 10:18:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200307141718.h6EHIZw4019224@Ag.arizona.edu> Oleanders are dying at my home on 32nd street and Cactus. The first one died quickly. First wilting a little, then turning a light green, and finally brown and dead looking. A couple of weeks later the oleander next to that one began to go through the same dying process. I have been told it is too much water, too little water, and I believe it is a disease like Texas Root. But I would like to know for sure and to get it fixed once and for all so it doesnt keep happening. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Tue Jul 15 00:36:14 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 17:36:14 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oleanders Dying Message-ID: <000401c34a69$2eccc8a0$b72c0a3f@ibmbna6040> Oleanders are classified as resistant to Texas Root Rot however this does not mean that they cannot get TRR. When TRR invades a plant the change from the plant looking healthy to dead occurs quite rapidly with the brown leaves clinging to the plant. Roots infected by TRR will be dark brown or black. The way for a positive ID is to take a sample root to U. of A., Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for a lab exam. The root should be finger size by 8 to 10 inches long. Do not wash the roots , place in a plastic bag and refrigerate. If your oleanders have not been getting adequate water they will soon sucumb. Watering once a week with enough water to wet the root zone to a depth of two feet would be considered adequate. Oleanders in California have been attacked by a fungus called Oleander Leaf Scorch which is killing plants. Unfortunately there is no known cure. One or more branches may be affected. The symptoms resemble those of drought stress except that with OLS the leaves start to yellow from the leaf tips and edges inward whereas with drought stress the leaves start yellowing from the center outward. With drought stress the whole plant will be affected. Also with drought stress when water is applied the plants will recover if they have not become too stressed. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: Huw_Williams@Vanguard.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, July 14, 2003 11:10 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Oleanders are dying at my home on 32nd street and Cactus. The first one died quickly. First wilting a little, then turning a light green, and finally brown and dead looking. A couple of weeks later the oleander next to that one began to go through the same dying process. I have been told it is too much water, too little water, and I believe it is a disease like Texas Root. But I would like to know for sure and to get it fixed once and for all so it doesnt keep happening. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From helen.schubert@honeywell.com Tue Jul 15 18:48:57 2003 From: helen.schubert@honeywell.com (helen.schubert@honeywell.com) Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 11:48:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200307151848.h6FImvjb029319@Ag.arizona.edu> Can I plant cilantro now either from seed or from transplants? From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Tue Jul 15 23:14:09 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 16:14:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Texas Root Rot Message-ID: <005f01c34b26$e619d940$ee04e043@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_005C_01C34AEC.1FA2B500 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Texas Root Rot is caused by a fungus called Phymatotrichum omnivorum = which occurs naturally in soils in the southwestern U.S. at elevations = below 4500 feet. Extreme temperatures, high soil pH, and excessive = moisture are contributing factors. Control can sometimes take place if immediately on recognizing the = symptoms of TRR the suspect limb or limbs are removed, the soil is = loosened out to the drip line of the tree and 2 inches of composted = manure plus one pound of amonium sulfate and one pound of soil sulfur = per 10 square feet are applied to the root zone out to the drip line. = Then apply enough water to penetrate to 3 to 4 feet deep. If other = trees are close by the same treatment should be given them. Trees that = do survive should be treated annually in April or May with the above = treatment. If other trees are to be planted where TRR exists the planting hole = should be treated with a chemical called Vapam. Trees that are resistant to TRR should be used when replanting in places = where TRR is known to exist. A bulletin titled Root Rot in Arizona is available for $1.00 from U. of = A., Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix = 85040. More detail is given about TRR plus a list of resistant trees. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: kgarby To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Sunday, July 13, 2003 7:24 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ficus nitida dying I am having what appears to be a TRR problem, every 3-5 days I have = another brown tree. I have lost 5 of 40. Can TRR be stopped? What = causes it? What kind of tree can I plant in its place?? =20 Ken Garby =20 =20 > The very rapid colapse of your Ficus nitidas sounds as if the cause = may be a > toxic chemical. > Have you watered the trees with pool backwash water ? > Does your pool have a leak ? > Has a weed killer been used in your yard ? > Texas Root Rot will usually cause a rapid decline but I've not seen a = case > where death was as fast as you describe, usually over a period of a = few > days. With TRR the leaves will usually hang onto the tree. Positive ID = can > only be made by a lab exam. If you think that TRR might be the = problem, dig > up samples of roots ( finger size by 8 or 10 inches long ), do not = wash, > place in a plastic bag, refrigerate and take the samples to U. of A., > Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix = 85040. > > Good luck. > > Rod McKusick > Master Gardener =20 =20 =20 ------=_NextPart_000_005C_01C34AEC.1FA2B500 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Texas Root Rot is caused by a fungus called = Phymatotrichum=20 omnivorum which occurs naturally in soils in the southwestern U.S. at = elevations=20 below 4500 feet. Extreme temperatures, high soil pH, and excessive = moisture are=20 contributing factors.
Control can sometimes take place if immediately on = recognizing=20 the symptoms of TRR the suspect limb or limbs are removed, the soil is = loosened=20 out to the drip line of the tree and 2 inches of composted manure plus = one pound=20 of amonium sulfate and one pound of soil sulfur per 10 square feet = are=20 applied to the root zone out to the drip line. Then apply enough = water to=20 penetrate to 3 to 4 feet deep.  If other trees are close by the = same=20 treatment should be given them. Trees that do survive should be treated = annually=20 in April or May with the above treatment.
If other trees are to be planted where TRR exists = the planting=20 hole should be treated with a chemical called Vapam.
Trees that are resistant to TRR should be used=20 when replanting in places where TRR is known to exist.
A bulletin titled Root Rot in Arizona is available = for $1.00=20 from U. of A., Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, = Phoenix=20 85040.  More detail is given about TRR plus a list of resistant=20 trees.
 
Good luck.
 
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
 
-----Original = Message-----
From:=20 kgarby <kgarby@cox.net>
To: = arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu = <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Date:=20 Sunday, July 13, 2003 7:24 AM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Ficus=20 nitida dying

I am having what appears to be a TRR problem, =
every 3-5 days I have another brown tree.  I have lost 5 of 40.  Can TRR be stopped?  What causes it?  What kind of tree can I plant in its =
place??
 
Ken =
Garby
 
 
> The very rapid colapse of your Ficus =
nitidas sounds as if the cause may be =
a
> toxic =
chemical.
> Have you watered the =
trees with pool backwash water =
?
> Does your pool have a =
leak =
?
> Has a weed killer been =
used in your yard =
?
> =
Texas Root Rot will usually cause a rapid =
decline but I've not seen a case
> where death was as fast as you describe, usually =
over a period of a =
few
> days. With TRR =
the leaves will usually hang onto the tree. Positive ID =
can
> only be made by =
a lab exam. If you think that TRR might be the =
problem,
dig
> up samples of roots ( finger size by 8 or 10 inches =
long ), do not wash,
> place in a plastic =
bag,  =
refrigerate and take the samples to =
U. of A.,
> =
Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, =
Phoenix =
85040.
>
> Good =
luck.
>
> Rod McKusick
<= PRE>> Master = Gardener

 

 

 

------=_NextPart_000_005C_01C34AEC.1FA2B500-- From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Tue Jul 15 23:27:44 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 16:27:44 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Natal Plum dying Message-ID: <006601c34b28$b28f0bc0$ee04e043@ibmbna6040> The symptoms you describe sound like the the symptoms of a fungus called Charcoal Rot which attacks the roots. When you dig up a root and find black rotted roots with charcoal like substance beneath the bark the culprit is most likely Charcoal Rot. Unfortunately there is no known cure. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener Original Message----- From: dodojd@msn.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Sunday, July 13, 2003 7:14 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I have a natal plum plant in the ground on the north side of my house in Phoenix. This plant is quite large and expansive. Lately, portions of it are dying. I prune the dead branches and foliage out, but it just keeps spreading. The leaves start drying up and then turn completely brown. I'm wondering if it's a moisture problem or a disease problem. > >Thx for your help. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From trifitzge@aol.com Tue Jul 15 23:46:15 2003 From: trifitzge@aol.com (trifitzge@aol.com) Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 16:46:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <20030715