From bob_helenlucas@msn.com  Mon Jun  2 01:22:14 2003
From: bob_helenlucas@msn.com (bob_helenlucas@msn.com)
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 18:22:14 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306020122.h521MEBS013419@Ag.arizona.edu>

We have patches of dead grass in our Bermuda.  We have watered, but it doesn't seem to help.  Do you have any suggestions, or know what the problem could be?


From dwbelectric@yahoo.com  Sun Jun  1 14:51:59 2003
From: dwbelectric@yahoo.com (Donald Blake)
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 07:51:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] bougainvillea puncture
Message-ID: <20030601145159.32273.qmail@web12404.mail.yahoo.com>

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I am looking for help with my wife who was punctured in the finger by a bouginvillea plant. I cut the plant down. We did not know how dangerous the plant was when we planted it by our pool. They should let people know on a warning label about these lethal thorns especially with small children. The little plant we bought did not have thorns they grew with the plants maturity. She no longer has use of the finger (right index).  We have been to the doctor, multiple antibiotic treatments, surgery to look for imbedded thorn material, and to a joint hand specialist who said that this finger probably will always be deformed and have limited movement. This injury occured 3-4 months ago. My wife is very sad about the loss of her finger she is an art teacher and can no longer draw or paint or write or sew with her right hand without the use of that finger.
 
 
 
Don and Linda 



---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
--0-401381901-1054479119=:32223
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

<DIV>
<DIV>I am looking for help with my wife who was punctured in the finger by a bouginvillea plant. I cut the plant down. We did not know how dangerous the plant was when we planted it by our pool. They should let people know on a warning label about these lethal thorns especially with small children. The little plant we bought did not have thorns they grew with the plants maturity. She no longer has use of the finger (right index).&nbsp; We have been to the doctor, multiple antibiotic treatments, surgery to look for imbedded thorn material, and to a joint hand specialist who said that this finger probably will always be deformed and have limited movement. This injury occured 3-4 months ago. My wife is very sad about the loss of her finger she is an art teacher and can no longer draw or paint or write or sew with her right hand without the use of that finger.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Don and Linda&nbsp;</DIV></DIV><p><hr SIZE=1>
Do you Yahoo!?<br>
Free <a href="http://us.rd.yahoo.com/mail_us/tag/*http://calendar.yahoo.com">online calendar</a> with sync to Outlook(TM).
--0-401381901-1054479119=:32223--

From arc211@iwon.com  Sun Jun  1 22:48:36 2003
From: arc211@iwon.com (arc211@iwon.com)
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 15:48:36 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306012248.h51MmaBS001160@Ag.arizona.edu>

Tell me, please, how to kill yucca.  It was invading yard, flower bed(2o yrs.old), etc.  Finally was cut down--at ground level last fall.  Now it's coming back, of course.  Some 'expert' I was referred to by a nursery said to use RoundUp....what a joke.(Itried it.)  Now what--plan B--read something abt. burning it, but think unwise.
Carolyn Appelt
Fort Worth, TX


From weasel74@cox.net  Sun Jun  1 21:47:33 2003
From: weasel74@cox.net (weasel74@cox.net)
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 14:47:33 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306012147.h51LlXBS026100@Ag.arizona.edu>

My question concerns what kind of soil conditioning is recommended for the growing of peppers. In the past several years, I have had no problem growing them but this year the plants do not seem to be growing. We planted them about two or three months ago and they aren't but about foot or so high now. They just don't seem to be growing. We have used Miracle Grow on them like their directions say but to no avail. I know that we probably need to have the soil tested but what does the soil need to be high in. High in acids, alkalines, or what. I mean we have tomatoes planted in the same garden and they are already about 5 foot tall and we have had to cut them back several times. Any information that you can give me would be greatly appreciated. Thank You!!!


From dsa23@comcast.net  Sun Jun  1 18:25:01 2003
From: dsa23@comcast.net (dsa23@comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 11:25:01 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306011825.h51IP1BS009986@Ag.arizona.edu>

I live in the northeast, and about a month ago i noticed a large (about 12 inches around)  lump of bright yellow fungus on the ground between the hedges next to my home.  When I touched it with a loose branch it seemed like a thick cheesy like substance.  Within a few days it dried up and turned brown.  Then again this week there was another large lump of this stuff about 2 feet from the previous site.  when I touched it again with a loose branch, i noticed that it oozed a chocolate color later that afternoon.  Again, it is starting to dry up and turn brown.  

Do you have any idea what this stuff is?  
It is disgusting looking.

Appreciate any information you might have.

Many thaks,
Debra


From djsilva7@aol.com  Sun Jun  1 18:03:15 2003
From: djsilva7@aol.com (djsilva7@aol.com)
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 11:03:15 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306011803.h51I3FBS008235@Ag.arizona.edu>

what is the recomended watering amounts for bermuda grass in Maricopa county? 


From Starlene Stewart" <techmama@starlene.com  Sun Jun  1 17:10:03 2003
From: Starlene Stewart" <techmama@starlene.com (Starlene Stewart)
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 10:10:03 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Thanks and now melons not growing
Message-ID: <000001c32860$c8ac1c80$8e078144@stewart>

Hi everyone,

Thanks for the responses to my questions about the sunflower insect problem
I was having.  Stripping the leaves seemed to help quite a bit, I've noticed
the little birds that squeeze into the garden are spending all their time
munching away on the bugs so that is helping.

Now I have another question.  I have planted watermelon and cantaloupe.  The
watermelon are Sweet Diane (a small watermelon) and Moon and Stars (a large
type heirloom).   The Sweet Diane got about the size of a softball and there
it seems to be staying.  I just recently found about half a dozen
baseball-sized Moon and Stars, one is now bigger than a softball.  I hope
they will continue to grow to their full potential.

The melons I planted are Minnesota Midget and Fastbreak.  The Midgets won't
get much bigger than a softball and I have several about the size of a
baseball.  The Fastbreaks are staying steady at baseball sized as well, even
though they should be getting to 5-7 pounds.  Some of these are hanging on
the cage, and interestingly the ones that are hanging by their stem seem to
be growing bigger than the ones resting on the ground.

Are there specific reasons why melons stop growing.  Am I not watering
enough?  It has gotten so hot so quickly I've started watering every other
day with soaker hose for 3-4 hours.  The new babies seem to have a big
growth spurt the day after watering, but then they all get to the certain
size and stop there.

Is this normal for melons?  Will they one day just be way bigger?  Do they
need a ton of fertilizer?  I've been using a generic Miracle Gro every
couple of weeks.  Also the soil has some organic matter (cow manure,
bloodmeal, bonemeal and wood ash).

Thanks in advance!!

Starlene



From bsotta@pol.net  Sun Jun  1 00:39:58 2003
From: bsotta@pol.net (bsotta@pol.net)
Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 17:39:58 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306010039.h510dwBS026447@Ag.arizona.edu>

Live in Sun Lakes. This year, could not grow good tomatoes. The plants were stunted and bore little fruit. Have a raised bed with wonderfully fertile soil; renewed each year with compost and fertilizer. Automatic irrigation system. Prev. years yielded good fruit. Even the green onions were small and very hot. Early lettuce, spinach, & radishes did well. Any suggestions? Thank you.


From OBONANZA@aol.com  Mon Jun  2 13:15:31 2003
From: OBONANZA@aol.com (OBONANZA@aol.com)
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 09:15:31 EDT
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Saguaro cactus
Message-ID: <1a7.150cb02e.2c0ca7f3@aol.com>

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I have a old 40' sahuaro that lost an arm two summers ago, then another last 
summer, then a third one yesterday. There are dark brown colorations in the 
cavities. I researched in the library & read about narcosis. Should I put screen 
over the three huge cavities? It has always had other "arms" close together & 
I fear the loss of the entire plant if the "shedding" continues. Any comment?
Jim O'Day

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<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=
=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">I have a old 40' sahuaro that lost an arm two summers=20=
ago, then another last summer, then a third one yesterday. There are dark br=
own colorations in the cavities. I researched in the library &amp; read abou=
t narcosis. Should I put screen over the three huge cavities? It has always=20=
had other "arms" close together &amp; I fear the loss of the entire plant if=
 the "shedding" continues. Any comment?<BR>
Jim O'Day</FONT></HTML>

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From ASUsped@aol.com  Mon Jun  2 06:28:39 2003
From: ASUsped@aol.com (ASUsped@aol.com)
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 02:28:39 EDT
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Christian Dior rose
Message-ID: <aa.1db946c0.2c0c4897@aol.com>

              Hello everyone,

      A friend of mine planted Christian Dior rose few months ago and is not 
doing very well; he's watering frequntly and feeding it regulary. He is 
wondering if this rose does well in Phoenix.?       Mike

From Starlene Stewart" <starlene@starlene.com  Mon Jun  2 15:30:18 2003
From: Starlene Stewart" <starlene@starlene.com (Starlene Stewart)
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 08:30:18 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Thrips???  was re: Sunflower Insect Parasites - how to treat?
Message-ID: <007101c3291b$e01600a0$390f4bab@stewart>

I found my Sunset Western Garden Book.  I guess I need to go to Half.com (I
got my copy for under $4) and buy two or three more copies since I can't
seem to keep this one handy.  ;-)

I think they are thrips that were doing the deed.

"The natural enemies of flower thrips are numerous, including ladybird
beetles and larvae, green lacewing larvae, and predaceous thrips and mites."

"For serious thrips infestations on ornamental plants, try malathion,
diazinon, Dursban, Orthene, and Thiodan.  On edible plants, use malathion."

My sunflowers are in the vegetable garden.  I am reluctant to use poison.

Are "ladybird beetles" the same thing as ladybugs?  I had dozens of ladybugs
on my dill plants that had gone to seed, and moved a couple over to the
sunflowers and the ladybugs flew away within seconds.

Any natural solutions for ridding thrips?  They aren't as plentiful as they
were, but I'd like to know how to manage them in the future.

Starlene




From Jonathan Kandell" <jkandell@sysmatrix.net  Mon Jun  2 14:43:29 2003
From: Jonathan Kandell" <jkandell@sysmatrix.net (Jonathan Kandell)
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 07:43:29 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sunflower Insect Parasites - how to treat?
References: <002401c3223b$afb9a560$74164bab@stewart>
Message-ID: <002501c32917$65e503c0$39588144@oemcomputer>

I would think stripping off the leaves will be throwing out the baby with
the bathwater, since more and more leaves will get these bugs, and plants
need leaves for photosynthesis.  The condition you describe is certainly
common in Tucson, where just about all sunflowers get those bugs, then a
black soot (virus) and then leaf death.

My most successful solution is to rub them off each morning early in the
season (they seem less mobile in the mornig, and to let lacewings do the
rest.  Be careful not to rub out the lacewing eggs which will also be all
over the leaves, especially those with a lot of whitefiles!  These are tiny
green pinhead sized egges atop of slim hairs coming off the leaf.  These
lacewings will keep those white bugs (are they whiteflies?) in check.  I'm
impressed every day when I see what they've done!

jk

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Starlene Stewart" <gardener@starlene.com>
To: <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Sent: Saturday, May 24, 2003 2:30 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sunflower Insect Parasites - how to treat?


> Hi,
>
> Can someone please help me identify what is destroying my sunflowers?
>
> The leaves are covered with very small whitish-grey looking insects.  It
> looks like they have wings - they look sort of fuzzy.  I have tried
spraying
> them off with a powerful spray from the hose -- hoping I could get rid of
> them easily (like aphids).  I've tried spraying them with a Dawn
dishwashing
> liquid and garlic spray, that didn't faze them.  My sunflowers were
supposed
> to be five feet tall, but many are now pressing their heads against my
fully
> enclosed 6' tall garden, so I've had to snip holes through the chicken
wire
> to let them out and several are more than 7 feet tall.  So the bugs don't
> seem to be stunting their growth.
>
> But early this morning I was out there looking closely at the leaves --
> which were drying up and turning black, and realized they are now covered
> with what appears to be the larvae of these insects -- millions of them.
> The larvae are clustered all over the leaves of the sunflowers, top and
> bottom.  I got the hose and started spraying, but realized it was going to
> take several hundred gallons of water to hose them all off, if I could
even
> get to them all.   So I decided to just strip off all the leaves which
were
> covered with larvae.  Well, that took every leaf on the stem up to about
the
> last 6-10 leaves at the very top.  I figured it would be best to just
> eliminate the damaged leaves and the larvae altogether.
>
> After I stripped off most of the leaves, I went in with the hose and
sprayed
> off the rest of the larvae and flies that I could find (not very many,
> thankfully).  I can't get to the sunflower's leaves that are already
poking
> their heads up out of the top.
>
> Now I'm worried the sunflower's stems will burn in the hot sun.  On the
> bright side, the things that were trying their hardest to grow under the
> sunflowers will now get some sunlight.
>
> I planted the sunflowers as an afterthought, to be honest, and realized as
I
> was planting them that they would begin to overshadow other things, but
then
> I decided to just let it go as an experiment and see if the shade would
help
> protect from the sun.  In retrospect I realize if I was going to plant
them
> anywhere, it should have been at the west end of my garden instead of the
> east end.  The west end *is* solid on the bottom 3 feet to offer some
shade
> in the late afternoon.
>
> I really am reluctant to use *poison*.  I was wondering if a spray made of
> cayenne or chili powder and garlic would get rid of those insects?  Or
maybe
> I didn't use enough dishwashing liquid in the first batch?   Any recipes
> that have been proven to work?
>
> Or will I be forced to resort to using chemicals?  If there is no other
> solution aside from chemicals, what should I get?  Also, should I paint
the
> stem of the sunflower with anything to protect it from sunburn??
>
> I've grown sunflowers for the last nine years when I lived in Phoenix and
> never experienced this problem.  We're now located in Maricopa.
>
> Thanks for any suggestions or solutions!
>
> Starlene
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>


From Jonathan Kandell" <jkandell@sysmatrix.net  Mon Jun  2 14:51:17 2003
From: Jonathan Kandell" <jkandell@sysmatrix.net (Jonathan Kandell)
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 07:51:17 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] bougainvillea puncture
References: <20030601145159.32273.qmail@web12404.mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <002601c32917$77ee5300$39588144@oemcomputer>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_001A_01C328DB.BF8948A0
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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Let me second the caution about treating pricks seriously. I got an =
infection from a tip of a cactus needle a few years ago, which turned to =
cellulitus. I was stunned how physically weak I got from this tiny =
little piece!  I was surprised to learn from the doctor how dangerous it =
was! =20

I'm not trying to scare anyone, most of my dozens of thorn pricks over =
the years have been perfectly fine without treatment (other than the =
discomfort until they work their way out).  But if you notice it getting =
infected or you notice you're weak, get immediate medical help.  Even =
days can make a difference, as your wife's story attests.

jk
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Donald Blake=20
  To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20
  Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2003 7:51 AM
  Subject: [Arid_gardener] bougainvillea puncture


  I am looking for help with my wife who was punctured in the finger by =
a bouginvillea plant. I cut the plant down. We did not know how =
dangerous the plant was when we planted it by our pool. They should let =
people know on a warning label about these lethal thorns especially with =
small children. The little plant we bought did not have thorns they grew =
with the plants maturity. She no longer has use of the finger (right =
index).  We have been to the doctor, multiple antibiotic treatments, =
surgery to look for imbedded thorn material, and to a joint hand =
specialist who said that this finger probably will always be deformed =
and have limited movement. This injury occured 3-4 months ago. My wife =
is very sad about the loss of her finger she is an art teacher and can =
no longer draw or paint or write or sew with her right hand without the =
use of that finger.



  Don and Linda=20


-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
-----
  Do you Yahoo!?
  Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1170" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Let me second the caution about treating pricks =
seriously.=20
I got an infection from a tip of a cactus needle a few years ago, which =
turned=20
to cellulitus. I was stunned how physically weak I got from this tiny =
little=20
piece!&nbsp; I was surprised to learn from the doctor how dangerous it=20
was!&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>I'm not trying to scare anyone, most of my =
dozens of thorn=20
pricks over the years have been perfectly fine without treatment (other =
than the=20
discomfort until they work their way out).&nbsp; But if you notice it =
getting=20
infected or you notice you're weak, get immediate medical help.&nbsp; =
Even days=20
can make a difference, as your wife's story attests.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>jk</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3Ddwbelectric@yahoo.com =
href=3D"mailto:dwbelectric@yahoo.com">Donald=20
  Blake</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3DArid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20
  =
href=3D"mailto:Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu">Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=
</A>=20
  </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, June 01, 2003 =
7:51 AM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [Arid_gardener] =
bougainvillea=20
  puncture</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV>
  <DIV>I am looking for help with my wife who was punctured in the =
finger by a=20
  bouginvillea plant. I cut the plant down. We did not know how =
dangerous the=20
  plant was when we planted it by our pool. They should let people know =
on a=20
  warning label about these lethal thorns especially with small =
children. The=20
  little plant we bought did not have thorns they grew with the plants =
maturity.=20
  She no longer has use of the finger (right index).&nbsp; We have been =
to the=20
  doctor, multiple antibiotic treatments, surgery to look for imbedded =
thorn=20
  material, and to a joint hand specialist who said that this finger =
probably=20
  will always be deformed and have limited movement. This injury occured =
3-4=20
  months ago. My wife is very sad about the loss of her finger she is an =
art=20
  teacher and can no longer draw or paint or write or sew with her right =
hand=20
  without the use of that finger.</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Don and Linda&nbsp;</DIV></DIV>
  <P>
  <HR SIZE=3D1>
  Do you Yahoo!?<BR>Free <A=20
  =
href=3D"http://us.rd.yahoo.com/mail_us/tag/*http://calendar.yahoo.com">on=
line=20
  calendar</A> with sync to Outlook(TM).</BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_001A_01C328DB.BF8948A0--


From linda.l.van@boeing.com  Mon Jun  2 16:56:41 2003
From: linda.l.van@boeing.com (linda.l.van@boeing.com)
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 09:56:41 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306021656.h52GufBS013792@Ag.arizona.edu>

Is it too late to bald the lawn and seed burmuda?
If ok to do this time of year, what is the procedure? 


From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net  Mon Jun  2 16:55:15 2003
From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin)
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 09:55:15 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Stunted Tomato Plants/Hot Onions
References: <200306010039.h510dwBS026447@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <011801c3292a$c3190d30$5c53530c@olin>

Difficult question.  A few ideas.

Exceptionally hot onions suggest stress.  The usual reasons for the
stress are improper watering, too high temperatures (planted too late),
alkaline soil, insects, diseases, etc.

Check the irrigation clock to make sure it is working properly.  You
should be applying about 1/2 inch of water 2-3 times per week, less if
the soil is covered with an organic mulch.  The similar problem with all
of the plants suggests a watering problem.

Test the soil moisture.  It should be moist but not waterlogged.

Tomato plants are susceptible to a Curley Top Virus which cause stunting
and leaf curl.  The disease is vectored by a leaf hopper that avoids
shade so that covering the tomatoes with a shade cloth minimizes that
problem.  The shade cloth should not touch the foliage - requires some
type of structure.

Nutrient withdrawal due to last year's crop along with alkaline
irrigation water may have created an alkaline soil condition.  Amending
the bed with sulfur prior to planting can help lower the pH to an
acceptable  level.  Soil sulfur is best and long lasting but it may take
one gardening season to break down.  Wettable sulfur powders work
faster.

Olin

----- Original Message ----- From: <bsotta@pol.net> Live in Sun Lakes.
This year, could not grow good tomatoes. The plants were stunted and
bore little fruit. Have a raised bed with wonderfully fertile soil;
renewed each year with compost and fertilizer. Automatic irrigation
system. Prev. years yielded good fruit. Even the green onions were small
and very hot. Early lettuce, spinach, & radishes did well. Any
suggestions? Thank you.


From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net  Mon Jun  2 16:58:38 2003
From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin)
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 09:58:38 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bermudagrass Lawn Water Requirements
References: <200306011803.h51I3FBS008235@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <011901c3292a$c419db60$5c53530c@olin>

For the Phoenix area, see:
http://ag.arizona.edu/AZMET/data/00plawn.htm

----- Original Message ----- From: <djsilva7@aol.com>
> what is the recomended watering amounts for bermuda grass in Maricopa
county?


From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net  Mon Jun  2 17:16:39 2003
From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin)
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 10:16:39 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pepper Problem
References: <200306012147.h51LlXBS026100@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <011a01c3292a$c4f45ce0$5c53530c@olin>

If your tomatoes are growing too fast, it suggests either too much water
or too much fertilizer.  Tomatoes can also take up more water than
peppers.  Check the soil around the peppers to make sure it isn't too
wet.   If the soil is okay for tomatoes, it should also be okay for
sweet peppers.  -Olin

----- Original Message ----- From: <weasel74@cox.net>
> My question concerns what kind of soil conditioning is recommended for
the growing of peppers. In the past several years, I have had no problem
growing them but this year the plants do not seem to be growing. We
planted them about two or three months ago and they aren't but about
foot or so high now. They just don't seem to be growing. We have used
Miracle Grow on them like their directions say but to no avail. I know
that we probably need to have the soil tested but what does the soil
need to be high in. High in acids, alkalines, or what. I mean we have
tomatoes planted in the same garden and they are already about 5 foot
tall and we have had to cut them back several times. Any information
that you can give me would be greatly appreciated. Thank You!!!


From mmittelstaedt@earthlink.net  Mon Jun  2 17:24:05 2003
From: mmittelstaedt@earthlink.net (Mark Mittelstaedt)
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 10:24:05 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
References: <200305311910.h4VJA8BS002157@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <006d01c3292b$c4dbd660$1602a8c0@0f1by>

Dichondra works well in shade, but it can't handle traffic.
----- Original Message -----
From: <azwards@msn.com>
To: <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Sent: Saturday, May 31, 2003 12:10 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page


> Hello,
>
> Can you recommend some grass seed choices that propagate well for a
residential lawn that is mostly, but not completely, shaded in Tempe?
>
> Thank you for your assistance in advance.
>
> Best regards,
>
> John Ward
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener


From cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu  Mon Jun  2 18:08:04 2003
From: cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu (Carol Noyes)
Date: Mon, 02 Jun 2003 11:08:04 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] 2-day Green Guerrilla Course in Organics
Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20030602103200.00ad5eb0@ag.arizona.edu>

--=====================_11384388==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed


June 25-26, 2003
Designed for Green Industry Professionals
8:00 AM - 5:00 PM
Room 101, Sands Classroom Bldg, ASU West, Thunderbird Rd., Glendale, AZ
http://www.artistic-arborist.com


Come join us, as Jeff Frank, Director of the Lyceum School of Environmental 
Horticulture shares his 30 years of organic and biological wisdom.

This conference will be fast-paced, exciting, and will cover the complete 
spectrum.

At the end of the seminar you will be able to consider alternative methods 
of treating tree and landscape problems and, at the same time,nurture 
healthier plants at reduced costs.  The goal?  To prosper in the new 
millennium.

Mr Jeff Frank is the Founder and Director of the Lyceum School for 
Environmental Horticulture, a not for profit foundation.  "Home of the 
Green Guerilla," the Lyceum is dedicated to teaching organic horticulture 
across America.

In addition to being a noted author, Jeff also consults to Yankee Stadium 
and over 80 golf courses and landscape operations across the country.

Artistic Arborist, Inc. is pleased to be hosting this first-ever event in 
the Phoenix metropolitan area.

Receive Organic, ISA & SPC credits!  Plus Green Guerrilla Certification!

Class is limited to 35 people only, 2-day course includes lunch, textbooks, 
handouts, samples, hat and certificate.  Registration and payment of $395 
must be paid by check to get tax deduction.  Must be received by June 15, 
2003.  Please make payments out to The Nature Lyceum, send to: Artistic 
Arborist, 4519 North 7th Ave Phoenix, AZ 85013.

Contact: Mark Adams, Artistic Arborist, 602-263-8889, 
store@artistic-arborist.com

--=====================_11384388==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
<div align="center">
<b>June 25-26, 2003<br>
Designed for Green Industry Professionals<br>
8:00 AM - 5:00 PM<br>
Room 101, Sands Classroom Bldg, ASU West, Thunderbird Rd., Glendale, AZ
<br>
<a href="http://www.artistic-arborist.com/" eudora="autourl">http://www.artistic-arborist.com<br>
<br>
<br>
</a></b></div>
Come join us, as Jeff Frank, Director of the Lyceum School of
Environmental Horticulture shares his 30 years of organic and biological
wisdom.&nbsp; <br>
<br>
This conference will be fast-paced, exciting, and will cover the complete
spectrum.<br>
<br>
At the end of the seminar you will be able to consider alternative
methods of treating tree and landscape problems and, at the same
time,nurture healthier plants at reduced costs.&nbsp; The goal?&nbsp; To
prosper in the new millennium.<br>
<br>
<b>Mr Jeff Frank is the Founder and Director</b> of the Lyceum School for
Environmental Horticulture, a<i><u> not for profit
foundation</u></i>.&nbsp; &quot;Home of the Green Guerilla,&quot; the
Lyceum is dedicated to teaching organic horticulture across
America.&nbsp; <br>
<br>
In addition to being a noted author, Jeff also consults to Yankee Stadium
and over 80 golf courses and landscape operations across the
country.<br>
<br>
Artistic Arborist, Inc. is pleased to be hosting this first-ever event in
the Phoenix metropolitan area.<br>
<br>
<b>Receive Organic, ISA &amp; SPC credits!&nbsp; Plus Green Guerrilla
Certification!<br>
<br>
</b>Class is limited to 35 people only, 2-day course includes lunch,
textbooks, handouts, samples, hat and certificate.&nbsp; Registration and
payment of $395 must be paid by check to get tax deduction.&nbsp; Must be
received by June 15, 2003.&nbsp; Please make payments out to The Nature
Lyceum, send to: Artistic Arborist, 4519 North 7th Ave Phoenix, AZ
85013.<br>
<br>
<b>Contact: Mark Adams, Artistic Arborist, 602-263-8889,
<i>store@artistic-arborist.com<br>
</b></i></html>

--=====================_11384388==_.ALT--


From fittedshirt@hotmail.com  Mon Jun  2 19:01:15 2003
From: fittedshirt@hotmail.com (Thomas Homans)
Date: Mon, 02 Jun 2003 13:01:15 -0600
Subject: [Arid_gardener] woes of a Tipu
Message-ID: <Law14-F38YnhTyr2Ae600021d1d@hotmail.com>

Last October I had a 24" Tipu planted on the west side of the house, where 
it gets full sun from mid morning until sunset.  The tree dropped it's 
leaves January, recovered quickly with full leaves in March, but now is 
shedding all of it's leaves again.  I thought perhaps it was the heat, but 
was told by a local nursery that the browning of the edges which leads to 
leaf droppage is a sign of salt burn.  I was given some soil conditioner and 
told to deeply water the tree, but these extra steps have not helped.  The 
tree is down to about 40-50% leaf coverage and I'm just wondering if this is 
usual for the Tipu during it's first hot summer in the ground, and should I 
be concerned?  Logically, if the problem was salt burn, why did the problem 
appear when the temps skyrocketed in mid-May.  The tree was beautiful just 1 
month prior and I have since increased my watering to account for the heat 
(to a depth of 2-3 feet once to twice a week),

thanks
tom

_________________________________________________________________
Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online  
http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963


From cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu  Mon Jun  2 22:35:35 2003
From: cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu (Carol Noyes)
Date: Mon, 02 Jun 2003 15:35:35 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] 24th Annual Conference of the American Community Gardening
 Association
Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20030602151230.00ad54d0@ag.arizona.edu>

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24th Annual Conference of the American Community Gardening Association
July 31-August 3, 2003
Chicago, Illinois

Jones College Prep High School
Hostelling International - Chicago
Harold Washington Library

Each year the American Community Gardening Association (ACGA) convenes a 
national conference to gather people involved in all aspects of community 
gardening, food security, and greening programs to share experiences and 
learn from each other.  This year's conference program includes keynote 
speakers, hands-on workshops, panel discussions, visits to Chicago's 
diverse community gardens and other green sites.  A one-day pre-conference 
workshop, "Curriculum Connections," offers educators an opportunity to 
learn.  During the conference, attendees can take advantage of networking, 
brainstorming, and connecting to others in the hospitality areas provided 
at the hostel and the conference venue.  Every session has a time slot for 
round table discussion.  Enjoy Thursday's casual welcome supper and 
reception, Friday's dinner and silent auction at the Chicago Botanic 
Garden, and Saturday's Annual Meeting and Luncheon in the Winter Garden at 
the Harold Washington Library, as well as a reception and slide show in the 
early evening.  Locally grown and produced food will be featured in a 
number of meals and refreshments.  Chicago offers visitors a wide variety 
of venues, events, and activities at no cost - parks, open-air concerts, 
and film festivals.  On Saturday, Venetian Night will light up the sky as 
hundreds of boats parade along the lakefront in the annual festival.  Pay 
special attention to conference tours provide a myriad of choices, full-day 
and part-day trips.  Don't miss the chance to be a part of this lively 
national event and to enjoy America's greenest city and meet its 
greeners.  Chicago is green and growing and looks forward to your visit.

For more detailed and updated information, please visit the ACGA website at 
www.communitygarden.org or contact Marti Ross Bjornson at m-bjornson@nwu.edu.

Registration fees:      Full Conference                         Early 
Bird              Regular
                         ACGA 
member                                     $225.00                 $250.00
                         Non-ACGA 
member                         $275.00                 $300.00
                         Student 
$125.00                 $150.00
                         Youth (18 & 
younger)                            $100.00                 $125.00

Daily and a la carte fees also available.
--=====================_27437608==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html>
<div align=3D"center">
<font size=3D4><b>24th Annual Conference of the American Community
Gardening Association<br>
July 31-August 3, 2003<br>
Chicago, Illinois<br>
<br>
</b></font></div>
Jones College Prep High School<br>
Hostelling International - Chicago<br>
Harold Washington Library<br>
<br>
Each year the American Community Gardening Association (ACGA) convenes a
national conference to gather people involved in all aspects of community
gardening, food security, and greening programs to share experiences and
learn from each other.&nbsp; This year's conference program includes
keynote speakers, hands-on workshops, panel discussions, visits to
Chicago's diverse community gardens and other green sites.&nbsp; A
one-day pre-conference workshop, &quot;Curriculum Connections,&quot;
offers educators an opportunity to learn.&nbsp; During the conference,
attendees can take advantage of networking, brainstorming, and connecting
to others in the hospitality areas provided at the hostel and the
conference venue.&nbsp; Every session has a time slot for round table
discussion.&nbsp; Enjoy Thursday's casual welcome supper and reception,
Friday's dinner and silent auction at the Chicago Botanic Garden, and
Saturday's Annual Meeting and Luncheon in the Winter Garden at the Harold
Washington Library, as well as a reception and slide show in the early
evening.&nbsp; Locally grown and produced food will be featured in a
number of meals and refreshments.&nbsp; Chicago offers visitors a wide
variety of venues, events, and activities at no cost - parks, open-air
concerts, and film festivals.&nbsp; On Saturday, Venetian Night will
light up the sky as hundreds of boats parade along the lakefront in the
annual festival.&nbsp; Pay special attention to conference tours provide
a myriad of choices, full-day and part-day trips.&nbsp; Don't miss the
chance to be a part of this lively national event and to enjoy America's
greenest city and meet its greeners.&nbsp; Chicago is green and growing
and looks forward to your visit.<br>
<br>
For more detailed and updated information, please visit the ACGA website
at
<a href=3D"http://www.communitygarden.org/"=
 eudora=3D"autourl">www.communitygarden.</a><a=
 href=3D"http://www.communitygarden.org/" eudora=3D"autourl">org</a>
or contact Marti Ross Bjornson at m-bjornson@nwu.edu.<br>
<br>
<b>Registration fees: <x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab><u>Full=
 Conference<x-tab>&nbsp;</x-tab><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&=
nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</=
x-tab><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab>Early=
 Bird<x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&=
nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab>Regular<br>
</u></b><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab><x-ta=
b>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab>ACGA=
 member<x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&=
nbsp;</x-tab><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab>=
$225.00<x-tab>&nbsp;</x-tab><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;</x-tab><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-ta=
b>$250.00<br>
<x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab><x-tab>&nbsp;=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&=
nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab>Non-ACGA=
 member<x-tab>&nbsp;</x-tab><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;</x-tab><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-ta=
b><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab>$275.00<x-t=
ab>&nbsp;</x-tab><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-=
tab><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab>$300.00<b=
r>
<x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab><x-tab>&nbsp;=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&=
nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab>Student<x-tab>&nbsp;</x-tab><x-tab>&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&=
nbsp;</x-tab><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab>=
$125.00<x-tab>&nbsp;</x-tab><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;</x-tab><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-ta=
b>$150.00<br>
<x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab><x-tab>&nbsp;=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&=
nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab>Youth (18 &amp;=
 younger)<x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb=
sp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;</x-tab>$100.00<x-tab>&nbsp;</x-tab><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&n=
bsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb=
sp;</x-tab>$125.00<br>
<br>
Daily and a la carte fees also available.</html>

--=====================_27437608==_.ALT--


From rodmmcq6@highstream.net  Mon Jun  2 23:08:28 2003
From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net)
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 16:08:28 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bermuda Grass with dead patches
Message-ID: <005a01c3295b$e282ede0$2f31db43@ibmbna6040>

Bob,
If the brown patches are circular you should check for pearl scale. At the
edge of the brown spot with a shovel dig about 6 inches deep and look for
small globules 1/8 inch in diameter that look like pearls. If you find them
your turf does have pearl scale. The insect feeds on the grass roots causing
the grass to die.
If you don't find them you may not be applying enough water. I am watering
for 40 minutes three times a week and find that it is barely enough water.
And today I increased that time to 48 minutes.
  The water should be penetrating 6 to 8
inches deep, you can check this by inserting a screwdriver into the ground
after you irrigate, it will go easily to the depth the water has penetrated.
Most sprinkler systems do not always apply the water uniformly. In many
cases the sprinkler heads can be adjusted for better coverage.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener

-----Original Message-----
From: bob_helenlucas@msn.com <bob_helenlucas@msn.com>
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Date: Sunday, June 01, 2003 10:20 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page


>We have patches of dead grass in our Bermuda.  We have watered, but it
doesn't seem to help.  Do you have any suggestions, or know what the problem
could be?
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>


From rodmmcq6@highstream.net  Mon Jun  2 23:27:33 2003
From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net)
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 16:27:33 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Christian Dior rose
Message-ID: <006201c3295e$a8257e80$2f31db43@ibmbna6040>

Mike,
The rose Christian Dior will do ok here in the low desert. However some
roses may take as much as two to three years to become established. Since I
haven't grown this rose I can't comment on how much time it takes to become
established.
Time of planting can make a difference, if the rose was planted bareroot it
should have been planted before March 1, preferrably in January. Some people
plant potted roses year round but they will not do much growing when the
temperature is over 90.
Watering is very important, apply 4 to 5 gallons to each bush each time you
water and with temps what they are now, water every other day.
A three to four inch mulch will help keep the roots cooler and conserve
water.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
-----Original Message-----
From: ASUsped@aol.com <ASUsped@aol.com>
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Date: Monday, June 02, 2003 8:14 AM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Christian Dior rose


>
>              Hello everyone,
>
>      A friend of mine planted Christian Dior rose few months ago and is
not
>doing very well; he's watering frequntly and feeding it regulary. He is
>wondering if this rose does well in Phoenix.?       Mike
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>


From watsontl@mindspring.com  Tue Jun  3 01:43:44 2003
From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson)
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 18:43:44 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Thanks and now melons not growing
References: <000001c32860$c8ac1c80$8e078144@stewart>
Message-ID: <004e01c32971$92a50f40$7931b83f@S0029317241>

How does the foliage look on these plants?   Lush and green?  Or skimpy and
a bit on the pale side?

Tom

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Starlene Stewart" <starstewart@msn.com>
To: <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2003 10:10 AM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Thanks and now melons not growing


> Hi everyone,
>
> Thanks for the responses to my questions about the sunflower insect
problem
> I was having.  Stripping the leaves seemed to help quite a bit, I've
noticed
> the little birds that squeeze into the garden are spending all their time
> munching away on the bugs so that is helping.
>
> Now I have another question.  I have planted watermelon and cantaloupe.
The
> watermelon are Sweet Diane (a small watermelon) and Moon and Stars (a
large
> type heirloom).   The Sweet Diane got about the size of a softball and
there
> it seems to be staying.  I just recently found about half a dozen
> baseball-sized Moon and Stars, one is now bigger than a softball.  I hope
> they will continue to grow to their full potential.
>
> The melons I planted are Minnesota Midget and Fastbreak.  The Midgets
won't
> get much bigger than a softball and I have several about the size of a
> baseball.  The Fastbreaks are staying steady at baseball sized as well,
even
> though they should be getting to 5-7 pounds.  Some of these are hanging on
> the cage, and interestingly the ones that are hanging by their stem seem
to
> be growing bigger than the ones resting on the ground.
>
> Are there specific reasons why melons stop growing.  Am I not watering
> enough?  It has gotten so hot so quickly I've started watering every other
> day with soaker hose for 3-4 hours.  The new babies seem to have a big
> growth spurt the day after watering, but then they all get to the certain
> size and stop there.
>
> Is this normal for melons?  Will they one day just be way bigger?  Do they
> need a ton of fertilizer?  I've been using a generic Miracle Gro every
> couple of weeks.  Also the soil has some organic matter (cow manure,
> bloodmeal, bonemeal and wood ash).
>
> Thanks in advance!!
>
> Starlene
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>



From watsontl@mindspring.com  Tue Jun  3 01:42:17 2003
From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson)
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 18:42:17 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
References: <200306012147.h51LlXBS026100@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <004901c32971$5edf6d90$7931b83f@S0029317241>

There are a variety of conditions that could slow down growth as you've
described.   If the plants are otherwise a good green color, the nutrients
provided by Miracle Grow are there in large enough quantities.   However,
such a product will not address micronutrient deficiencies such as sulfur or
magnesium.    You can add such materials as soil sulfur or Epsom salts, but
until you do that soil test you will be shooting in the dark.

Do they get full sun all day?   (Everyone reading this will be assuming you
live in the desert southwest, by the way - if this is not the case, let us
know, or the advice we give may be less than effective.)   Not enough
sunlight will slow a plant's growth.   Are the leaves a uniform color?   Are
the lower leaves dying?   Have the plants at least tried to flower (without
setting fruit)?

Sorry for all the questions, when what you need is an answer.   But the more
you tell us, the more likely it is we can help.

Tom

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <weasel74@cox.net>
To: <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2003 2:47 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page


> My question concerns what kind of soil conditioning is recommended for the
growing of peppers. In the past several years, I have had no problem growing
them but this year the plants do not seem to be growing. We planted them
about two or three months ago and they aren't but about foot or so high now.
They just don't seem to be growing. We have used Miracle Grow on them like
their directions say but to no avail. I know that we probably need to have
the soil tested but what does the soil need to be high in. High in acids,
alkalines, or what. I mean we have tomatoes planted in the same garden and
they are already about 5 foot tall and we have had to cut them back several
times. Any information that you can give me would be greatly appreciated.
Thank You!!!
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>



From drew_linda@hotmail.com  Tue Jun  3 15:22:43 2003
From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew)
Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2003 15:22:43 +0000
Subject: [Arid_gardener] woes of a Tipu
Message-ID: <Law14-F31JJNToFTs4y00031243@hotmail.com>

I'm not familiar with this tree, so I'm sure someone else will respond
with a good answer. In the meantime....

Sunset Western Garden Book notes that Tipu will not tolerate strongly
alkaline soil (most of ours are). Also, salt burn can be an indicator of
insufficient irrigation -- I think this tree has moderate to high water
requirements and perhaps it lost the leaves in mid-May because of
water stress. Watering to 3 feet once/twice a week is good for most
trees this time of year.

Linda Drew
Master Gardener


>From: "Thomas Homans" <fittedshirt@hotmail.com>
>To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
>Subject: [Arid_gardener] woes of a Tipu
>Date: Mon, 02 Jun 2003 13:01:15 -0600
>
>Last October I had a 24" Tipu planted on the west side of the house, where 
>it gets full sun from mid morning until sunset.  The tree dropped it's 
>leaves January, recovered quickly with full leaves in March, but now is 
>shedding all of it's leaves again.  I thought perhaps it was the heat, but 
>was told by a local nursery that the browning of the edges which leads to 
>leaf droppage is a sign of salt burn.  I was given some soil conditioner 
>and told to deeply water the tree, but these extra steps have not helped.  
>The tree is down to about 40-50% leaf coverage and I'm just wondering if 
>this is usual for the Tipu during it's first hot summer in the ground, and 
>should I be concerned?  Logically, if the problem was salt burn, why did 
>the problem appear when the temps skyrocketed in mid-May.  The tree was 
>beautiful just 1 month prior and I have since increased my watering to 
>account for the heat (to a depth of 2-3 feet once to twice a week),
>
>thanks
>tom
>
>_________________________________________________________________
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From jareagan@wellsfargo.com  Tue Jun  3 15:16:09 2003
From: jareagan@wellsfargo.com (jareagan@wellsfargo.com)
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 08:16:09 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306031516.h53FG9BS003688@Ag.arizona.edu>

what does gypsum do for soil? I have blossom end rot in tomatoes in alkaline soil and don't want to make the soil more alkaline.  What can I use to increase the calcium without changing the pH?  Thanks. James


From gwright@Ag.arizona.edu  Tue Jun  3 15:56:43 2003
From: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu (Glenn C. Wright)
Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2003 08:56:43 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: My new orange tree
Message-ID: <5.1.1.6.2.20030603085636.028f9448@ag.arizona.edu>

--=====================_520341703==.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed


>X-Sender: granmash@pop.fastq.com
>Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 08:54:39 -0700
>To: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu
>From: Shirley Hart <granmash@fastq.com>
>Subject: My new orange tree
>
>
> > My son planted a 2 foot Valencia orange tree on Friday.  How often should I
> > be watering it and how much?  I live in Apache Junction.
> > Thank you very much
> >

Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D.
Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist
University of Arizona - Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center
2186 W. County 15th Street
Somerton, AZ 85350
Phone: 928-726-0458
FAX: 928-726-1363
e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu
--=====================_520341703==.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
<font size=3><br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>X-Sender:
granmash@pop.fastq.com<br>
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 08:54:39 -0700<br>
To: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu<br>
From: Shirley Hart &lt;granmash@fastq.com&gt;<br>
Subject: My new orange tree<br><br>
<br>
&gt; My son planted a 2 foot Valencia orange tree on Friday.&nbsp; How
often should I<br>
&gt; be watering it and how much?&nbsp; I live in Apache Junction.<br>
&gt; Thank you very much<br>
&gt;</blockquote>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D.<br>
Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist<br>
University of Arizona - Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center<br>
2186 W. County 15th Street<br>
Somerton, AZ 85350<br>
Phone: 928-726-0458<br>
FAX: 928-726-1363<br>
e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu</font></html>

--=====================_520341703==.ALT--



From drew_linda@hotmail.com  Tue Jun  3 15:59:18 2003
From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew)
Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2003 15:59:18 +0000
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sunflower Insect Parasites - how to treat?
Message-ID: <Law14-F1035sqMaSORH0000a344@hotmail.com>

We've seen a number of cases of lace bug damage in Tucson lately.
(lace bugs --- different than lacewings who are "good guys").

Lace bug adults and nymphs suck jiuces from the underside of leaves,
spotting leaves with black excrement and leaving speckled white or
gray, blotchy appearance on leaf surface.

Lace bugs are difficult to get rid of -- try stong water spray, soap spray;
pyrethrin as a last resort (or to protect your beneficials, just prune out
heavily infested plants).

Linda Drew
Master Gardener

>From: "Jonathan Kandell" <jkandell@sysmatrix.net>
>Reply-To: "Jonathan Kandell" <jkandell@sysmatrix.net>
>To: <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
>Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Sunflower Insect Parasites - how to treat?
>Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 07:43:29 -0700
>
>I would think stripping off the leaves will be throwing out the baby with
>the bathwater, since more and more leaves will get these bugs, and plants
>need leaves for photosynthesis.  The condition you describe is certainly
>common in Tucson, where just about all sunflowers get those bugs, then a
>black soot (virus) and then leaf death.
>
>My most successful solution is to rub them off each morning early in the
>season (they seem less mobile in the mornig, and to let lacewings do the
>rest.  Be careful not to rub out the lacewing eggs which will also be all
>over the leaves, especially those with a lot of whitefiles!  These are tiny
>green pinhead sized egges atop of slim hairs coming off the leaf.  These
>lacewings will keep those white bugs (are they whiteflies?) in check.  I'm
>impressed every day when I see what they've done!
>
>jk
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Starlene Stewart" <gardener@starlene.com>
>To: <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
>Sent: Saturday, May 24, 2003 2:30 PM
>Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sunflower Insect Parasites - how to treat?
>
>
> > Hi,
> >
> > Can someone please help me identify what is destroying my sunflowers?
> >
> > The leaves are covered with very small whitish-grey looking insects.  It
> > looks like they have wings - they look sort of fuzzy.  I have tried
>spraying
> > them off with a powerful spray from the hose -- hoping I could get rid 
>of
> > them easily (like aphids).  I've tried spraying them with a Dawn
>dishwashing
> > liquid and garlic spray, that didn't faze them.  My sunflowers were
>supposed
> > to be five feet tall, but many are now pressing their heads against my
>fully
> > enclosed 6' tall garden, so I've had to snip holes through the chicken
>wire
> > to let them out and several are more than 7 feet tall.  So the bugs 
>don't
> > seem to be stunting their growth.
> >
> > But early this morning I was out there looking closely at the leaves --
> > which were drying up and turning black, and realized they are now 
>covered
> > with what appears to be the larvae of these insects -- millions of them.
> > The larvae are clustered all over the leaves of the sunflowers, top and
> > bottom.  I got the hose and started spraying, but realized it was going 
>to
> > take several hundred gallons of water to hose them all off, if I could
>even
> > get to them all.   So I decided to just strip off all the leaves which
>were
> > covered with larvae.  Well, that took every leaf on the stem up to about
>the
> > last 6-10 leaves at the very top.  I figured it would be best to just
> > eliminate the damaged leaves and the larvae altogether.
> >
> > After I stripped off most of the leaves, I went in with the hose and
>sprayed
> > off the rest of the larvae and flies that I could find (not very many,
> > thankfully).  I can't get to the sunflower's leaves that are already
>poking
> > their heads up out of the top.
> >
> > Now I'm worried the sunflower's stems will burn in the hot sun.  On the
> > bright side, the things that were trying their hardest to grow under the
> > sunflowers will now get some sunlight.
> >
> > I planted the sunflowers as an afterthought, to be honest, and realized 
>as
>I
> > was planting them that they would begin to overshadow other things, but
>then
> > I decided to just let it go as an experiment and see if the shade would
>help
> > protect from the sun.  In retrospect I realize if I was going to plant
>them
> > anywhere, it should have been at the west end of my garden instead of 
>the
> > east end.  The west end *is* solid on the bottom 3 feet to offer some
>shade
> > in the late afternoon.
> >
> > I really am reluctant to use *poison*.  I was wondering if a spray made 
>of
> > cayenne or chili powder and garlic would get rid of those insects?  Or
>maybe
> > I didn't use enough dishwashing liquid in the first batch?   Any recipes
> > that have been proven to work?
> >
> > Or will I be forced to resort to using chemicals?  If there is no other
> > solution aside from chemicals, what should I get?  Also, should I paint
>the
> > stem of the sunflower with anything to protect it from sunburn??
> >
> > I've grown sunflowers for the last nine years when I lived in Phoenix 
>and
> > never experienced this problem.  We're now located in Maricopa.
> >
> > Thanks for any suggestions or solutions!
> >
> > Starlene
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Arid_gardener mailing list
> > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> >
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener

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From drew_linda@hotmail.com  Tue Jun  3 15:50:02 2003
From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew)
Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2003 15:50:02 +0000
Subject: [Arid_gardener] lawn care in June
Message-ID: <Law14-F23kvcxaMc2vK000316e7@hotmail.com>

According to Western Sod's turf calendar, bermuda lawns can be
thatched (if more that 1/2-inch of thatch) and aerified now.  Common
or seed type bermudagrass can be sown. The tif grasses/ hybrid
bermudas are grown from stolons or sod and can be planted now
(they are not grown from seed).

What kind of bermuda lawn do you have -- seeded or hybrid?

Scalping is usually done in April to encourage turf density. My
understanding is that it is too late to do that now.

Linda Drew
Master Gardener

>From: linda.l.van@boeing.com
>To: <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
>Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 09:56:41 -0700 (MST)
>
>Is it too late to bald the lawn and seed burmuda?
>If ok to do this time of year, what is the procedure?
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener

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From drew_linda@hotmail.com  Tue Jun  3 16:11:00 2003
From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew)
Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2003 16:11:00 +0000
Subject: [Arid_gardener] saguaro question - termites
Message-ID: <Law14-F51wD6qTtKlL3000050df@hotmail.com>

What you describe sounds like the mud tunnels made by our native termite.
It is harmless to the saquaro and you can wash away the tunnels with water.

These encrusting native termites are not the same as the subterranean 
termites
that invade houses. They eat grasses, native plant material but not solid 
wood.
What they are doing on the saquaro is cleaning up the old papery layer of 
dead
plant tissue.

Linda Drew
Master Gardener

>From: "A & B Marshall" <allmarsh@quixnet.net>
>To: <arid_gardener@cals.arizona.edu>
>Subject: [Arid_gardener] saguaro question
>Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 20:37:56 -0700
>
>We have a saguaro in our front yard that has some mud going up the base to 
>the lower part of the cactus.  The mud flakes off and it appears they may 
>be termite mud tunnels.  The dried mud flakes off easily when scraped, but 
>the flesh of the cactus is no longer the normal green color where the mud 
>was.
>
>Does this sound possible to have termites on a saguaro and should we be 
>concerned that they may damage the cactus?  Otherwise, the cactus is doing 
>well and several birds have taken up nests in the cactus "condos".
>
>Thank you for your help.

_________________________________________________________________
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From pivobier2@msn.com  Tue Jun  3 20:19:52 2003
From: pivobier2@msn.com (pivobier2@msn.com)
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 13:19:52 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306032019.h53KJqBS005995@Ag.arizona.edu>

I am looking for a tree for our front yard that must take full sun.  We are replacing a messy Sweet Acacia.  I like the shape and size of the Palo Brea in our back yard, but it has messy yellow blossoms.  Can you please recommend a hardy tree that will look nice in a front yard and won't be blown over by the monsoon winds, and is clean?  I look forward to your response.


From Jonathan Kandell" <jkandell@sysmatrix.net  Tue Jun  3 16:16:56 2003
From: Jonathan Kandell" <jkandell@sysmatrix.net (Jonathan Kandell)
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 09:16:56 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sunflower Insect Parasites - how to treat?
References: <Law14-F1035sqMaSORH0000a344@hotmail.com>
Message-ID: <002101c329ee$0a305200$64768144@oemcomputer>

My sunflowers definitely suffer from the "black extriment, leaving
speckled...blotchy appearance".  But the white bugs associated with it hang
out on the top of the leaves, the sunniest leaves at that.  (They seem to
love heat!)  There also appear to sometimes be aphid-type bugs on the
bottoms of the leaves.  Are you saying these are nymphs, which then go atop
the leaves once they're grown?  Interesting that these bugs attack
evergreens in other parts of country, as sunflowers have a "pine" type smell
to the sap....

jk

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Linda Drew" <drew_linda@hotmail.com>
To: <jkandell@sysmatrix.net>; <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2003 8:59 AM
Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Sunflower Insect Parasites - how to treat?


>
> We've seen a number of cases of lace bug damage in Tucson lately.
> (lace bugs --- different than lacewings who are "good guys").
>
> Lace bug adults and nymphs suck jiuces from the underside of leaves,
> spotting leaves with black excrement and leaving speckled white or
> gray, blotchy appearance on leaf surface.
>
> Lace bugs are difficult to get rid of -- try stong water spray, soap
spray;
> pyrethrin as a last resort (or to protect your beneficials, just prune out
> heavily infested plants).
>
> Linda Drew
> Master Gardener
>
> >From: "Jonathan Kandell" <jkandell@sysmatrix.net>
> >Reply-To: "Jonathan Kandell" <jkandell@sysmatrix.net>
> >To: <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
> >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Sunflower Insect Parasites - how to treat?
> >Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 07:43:29 -0700
> >
> >I would think stripping off the leaves will be throwing out the baby with
> >the bathwater, since more and more leaves will get these bugs, and plants
> >need leaves for photosynthesis.  The condition you describe is certainly
> >common in Tucson, where just about all sunflowers get those bugs, then a
> >black soot (virus) and then leaf death.
> >
> >My most successful solution is to rub them off each morning early in the
> >season (they seem less mobile in the mornig, and to let lacewings do the
> >rest.  Be careful not to rub out the lacewing eggs which will also be all
> >over the leaves, especially those with a lot of whitefiles!  These are
tiny
> >green pinhead sized egges atop of slim hairs coming off the leaf.  These
> >lacewings will keep those white bugs (are they whiteflies?) in check.
I'm
> >impressed every day when I see what they've done!
> >
> >jk
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Starlene Stewart" <gardener@starlene.com>
> >To: <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
> >Sent: Saturday, May 24, 2003 2:30 PM
> >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sunflower Insect Parasites - how to treat?
> >
> >
> > > Hi,
> > >
> > > Can someone please help me identify what is destroying my sunflowers?
> > >
> > > The leaves are covered with very small whitish-grey looking insects.
It
> > > looks like they have wings - they look sort of fuzzy.  I have tried
> >spraying
> > > them off with a powerful spray from the hose -- hoping I could get rid
> >of
> > > them easily (like aphids).  I've tried spraying them with a Dawn
> >dishwashing
> > > liquid and garlic spray, that didn't faze them.  My sunflowers were
> >supposed
> > > to be five feet tall, but many are now pressing their heads against my
> >fully
> > > enclosed 6' tall garden, so I've had to snip holes through the chicken
> >wire
> > > to let them out and several are more than 7 feet tall.  So the bugs
> >don't
> > > seem to be stunting their growth.
> > >
> > > But early this morning I was out there looking closely at the
leaves --
> > > which were drying up and turning black, and realized they are now
> >covered
> > > with what appears to be the larvae of these insects -- millions of
them.
> > > The larvae are clustered all over the leaves of the sunflowers, top
and
> > > bottom.  I got the hose and started spraying, but realized it was
going
> >to
> > > take several hundred gallons of water to hose them all off, if I could
> >even
> > > get to them all.   So I decided to just strip off all the leaves which
> >were
> > > covered with larvae.  Well, that took every leaf on the stem up to
about
> >the
> > > last 6-10 leaves at the very top.  I figured it would be best to just
> > > eliminate the damaged leaves and the larvae altogether.
> > >
> > > After I stripped off most of the leaves, I went in with the hose and
> >sprayed
> > > off the rest of the larvae and flies that I could find (not very many,
> > > thankfully).  I can't get to the sunflower's leaves that are already
> >poking
> > > their heads up out of the top.
> > >
> > > Now I'm worried the sunflower's stems will burn in the hot sun.  On
the
> > > bright side, the things that were trying their hardest to grow under
the
> > > sunflowers will now get some sunlight.
> > >
> > > I planted the sunflowers as an afterthought, to be honest, and
realized
> >as
> >I
> > > was planting them that they would begin to overshadow other things,
but
> >then
> > > I decided to just let it go as an experiment and see if the shade
would
> >help
> > > protect from the sun.  In retrospect I realize if I was going to plant
> >them
> > > anywhere, it should have been at the west end of my garden instead of
> >the
> > > east end.  The west end *is* solid on the bottom 3 feet to offer some
> >shade
> > > in the late afternoon.
> > >
> > > I really am reluctant to use *poison*.  I was wondering if a spray
made
> >of
> > > cayenne or chili powder and garlic would get rid of those insects?  Or
> >maybe
> > > I didn't use enough dishwashing liquid in the first batch?   Any
recipes
> > > that have been proven to work?
> > >
> > > Or will I be forced to resort to using chemicals?  If there is no
other
> > > solution aside from chemicals, what should I get?  Also, should I
paint
> >the
> > > stem of the sunflower with anything to protect it from sunburn??
> > >
> > > I've grown sunflowers for the last nine years when I lived in Phoenix
> >and
> > > never experienced this problem.  We're now located in Maricopa.
> > >
> > > Thanks for any suggestions or solutions!
> > >
> > > Starlene
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Arid_gardener mailing list
> > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> > >
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >Arid_gardener mailing list
> >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Help STOP SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE*
> http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
>
>


From Starlene Stewart" <starlene@starlene.com  Wed Jun  4 04:33:11 2003
From: Starlene Stewart" <starlene@starlene.com (Starlene Stewart)
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 21:33:11 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Compost Dummy
Message-ID: <003901c32a52$68e181c0$05003b41@stewart>

Hi,

In my previous post I mentioned that I've been using Duane Newcomb's
intensive gardening techniques for almost a decade.

However, I am beginning to change my gardening methods somewhat.  For one
thing, we have a lot more room to garden, the current one is 18' x 22'.

In addition to the room, we now have chickens, and goats.  I'm trying to
figure out how to manage their manure for use in the garden.  I'm told goat
manure is perfect right away, while I know chicken manure is "hot".

So far what I've been doing is taking the hay stems that the goats will not
eat (and have been pooping and peeing on since they pulled the stems from
the manger and dropped them on the ground) and putting it in the chicken
yard under their roosts.  They love scratching around in it, and it cushions
their landing in the morning when they fly down from the roosts.

After a month or so it's time to clean out the goat's barn again.  But first
I remove the now nicely chopped up hay stems (the chickens peck and scratch
it into little bits, also now rich with chicken poop) from the chicken yard
into a pile surrounded by wooden pallets.  Then I start all over -- bring
the hay stems to the chickens, etc.

I soak the hay/manure pile with water, and use a fork to move it around
somewhat, but it never turns into that pretty brown earth smelling compost
that I'm wishing for.  It is certainly hot enough to "cook".  Maybe I'm not
being patient enough?

I also have a giant pile of cow manure (fresh originally, but now about four
months old) in a different area that I don't do anything with.

What else should I be doing?  I feel like a composting dummy.

Starlene





From Starlene Stewart" <starlene@starlene.com  Wed Jun  4 04:21:40 2003
From: Starlene Stewart" <starlene@starlene.com (Starlene Stewart)
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 21:21:40 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Thanks and now melons not growing
References: <000001c32860$c8ac1c80$8e078144@stewart> <004e01c32971$92a50f40$7931b83f@S0029317241> <004701c32984$597b98c0$20074bab@stewart> <000601c32987$4e946e20$c040b83f@S0029317241>
Message-ID: <003801c32a50$cd341a40$05003b41@stewart>

Tom Watson wrote:

> No, it should be lush and green.   I was looking for signs that there was
> some sort of mineral nutrient shortage going on.   The bulk of what
> nourishes the fruit is manufactured in the leaves, so if they aren't
looking
> good, you can't expect good fruit.

Oh, okay good.  This is my first time ever to grow cantaloupe and
watermelon.

> Sounds like the plants are healthy
> enough to support good-sized fruit.   At this point I'd wait and see what
> happens.   Some of the melons I've grown seemed to take an absurd amount
of
> time to enlarge and ripen, but they eventually did.   (Do you happen to
> remember the days-to-maturity from the seed packets?)

Yes, I remember them all -- let me just get the catalog.  :-)

I planted everything on February 22nd, BTW.

*4" Minnesota Midget Cantaloupe Heirloom 60 days
*7" Fastbreak Cantaloupe F1 Hybrid 67 days
*Large up to 28 pound Watermelon Moon and Stars Heirloom 105 days
*Oval 15 pound Watermelon Sweet Diane F1 Hybrid 85 days

So giving them all ten days for germination, I should have been able to pick
some Minnesota Midgets by now -- it's been well over *90* days.  I have
noticed that my days to maturity *rarely* match the seed packets.  Okay,
radishes usually match.  ;-)

Maybe part of the problem could be that I planted too soon... our temps here
were 10 to 15 degrees colder than Phoenix temps all winter long.  Maybe it
was too cold still on February 22nd.

> I'm curious - why are you adding wood ash to your soil?

I have followed author Duane Newcomb's intensive gardening techniques for
almost a decade now.  One of his organic fertilizer "formulas" calls for 2
pints bloodmeal, 4 pints bonemeal and 2 pints wood ash.  He says the wood
ash adds potassium.  The book of his that I like _The Backyard Vegetable
Factory : Super Yields from Small Spaces_ has been out of print for years.
However, it has been reprinted under a new name (can't remember that name
right now).

Starlene




From watsontl@mindspring.com  Wed Jun  4 01:46:08 2003
From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson)
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 18:46:08 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
References: <200306031516.h53FG9BS003688@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <002101c32a3b$12d79060$f860b83f@S0029317241>

Basically, gypsum is supposed to keep clay particles from sticking together,
making the soil easier to work.

Our soils have no shortage of calcium.   Blossom end rot in this region is
usually the result of "irregular watering," which is a misleading term in
this case.   You may be offering the plants water on a rigorous schedule and
still see this problem.   What is happening is the soil dries out too much
between waterings for the roots to function properly, but not enough that
the plants show any visible stress.   If the roots aren't up to speed, a
variety of nutrients are difficult for the plants to absorb.   The first
step to preventing the problem is to make sure the soil is well-amended with
organic material, since such material can hold a lot of water in the soil,
but not hold it so tightly (the way clay will) that the roots can't get it.
(Constant additions of organic material also help to gradually relieve the
alkalinity of our soil.)   Then, after putting the tomatoes in, place a
generous layer (at least 3 inches) of mulch such as shredded paper or (much
more attractive) straw.   This will slow the loss of water from the surface
of the soil.   Between these two methods you will reduce the amount of
change in moisture the roots endure between waterings, and the plant will
have less trouble taking up nutrients, especially calcium.

Of course, since the plants are already in the ground you will need to rely
on the mulch, and hope that whatever you put in the soil in the spring will
be enough.   If the mulch is enough at this point to do the trick, you
should see the fruit that forms later in the season showing much less
blossom end rot - and perhaps see it eliminated altogether.   The fruit
currently on the plants is, I'm sorry to say, permanently affected.

Hope this helps.

Tom

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <jareagan@wellsfargo.com>
To: <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2003 8:16 AM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page


> what does gypsum do for soil? I have blossom end rot in tomatoes in
alkaline soil and don't want to make the soil more alkaline.  What can I use
to increase the calcium without changing the pH?  Thanks. James
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>



From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net  Wed Jun  4 00:23:03 2003
From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin)
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 17:23:03 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tomato Blossom End Rot
References: <200306031516.h53FG9BS003688@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <000601c32a2f$7f8d1dd0$0b52530c@olin>

BER is usually thought to be due to watering fluctuations such that
calcium can not be utilized efficiently although Ca may be abundant in
the soil.  The usual recommendation is to use mulch to retard plant
water fluctuations and avoid intermittent wet and dry periods at the
plant roots.

Ca is usually abundant in AZ desert soil but may be tied up as calcium
carbonate (lime) at high pH and may not available to the plant.
Amending with sulfur helps lower pH and make the Ca available.

The function of gypsum (calcium sulfate) is to displace sodium is sodic
soils.  The current conventional wisdom is that it is pH neutral and
most of the manufacturer's labels on the bags no longer make the claim
that their gypsum  lowers pH although at least one sold in the Phoenix
area still makes that claim.  I use gypsum on a regularly because it
seems to improve tilth.

Olin

----- Original Message ----- From: <jareagan@wellsfargo.com>
> what does gypsum do for soil? I have blossom end rot in tomatoes in
alkaline soil and don't want to make the soil more alkaline.  What can I
use to increase the calcium without changing the pH?  Thanks. James


From rodmmcq6@highstream.net  Wed Jun  4 00:13:47 2003
From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net)
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 17:13:47 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gypsum, its use
Message-ID: <005901c32a2e$4209b320$9804e043@ibmbna6040>

Gypsum has a number of uses for the gardener here in the southwest. Gypsum
is 1/3 calcium and will provide that element where it is required. Gypsum
will loosen the soil thus allowing for better water penetration. Gypsum will
help to displace some of the harmful salts left in the soil when water that
contains salt evaporates.
Gypsum will help to prevent the blossom end rot that you are experiencing on
your tomatoes. A uniform soil moisture will also help to prevent blossom end
rot.
Gypsum does not change the soil pH.
If what you want is a product to reduce the soil pH, soil sulfur will help
to accomplish that.

Good Luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener   -----Original Message-----
From: jareagan@wellsfargo.com <jareagan@wellsfargo.com>
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Date: Tuesday, June 03, 2003 8:34 AM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page


>what does gypsum do for soil? I have blossom end rot in tomatoes in
alkaline soil and don't want to make the soil more alkaline.  What can I use
to increase the calcium without changing the pH?  Thanks. James
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>


From delsea@qwest.net  Wed Jun  4 16:34:15 2003
From: delsea@qwest.net (JJE)
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2003 09:34:15 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] salt in soil
Message-ID: <003d01c32ab7$23afee60$633c10ac@gr.casino>

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I was told to run my drip irrigation for 24 hours once a year to leach =
the salts out of the soil.  Is there any other way as I did that in my =
veggie bed but the soil is still full of salt about 8 inches down.
Thanks

Spay/Neuter, Adopt, Rescue, Don't Breed.
The animals don't need your excuses -- they need YOU
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<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dwindows-1252">
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><EM><FONT color=3D#008080>I was told to run my drip irrigation for =
24 hours=20
once a year to leach the salts out of the soil.&nbsp; Is there any other =
way as=20
I did that in my veggie bed but the soil is still full of salt about 8 =
inches=20
down.</FONT></EM></DIV>
<DIV><EM><FONT color=3D#008080>Thanks</FONT></EM></DIV>
<DIV><EM><FONT color=3D#008080></FONT></EM>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><EM><FONT color=3D#008080>Spay/Neuter, Adopt, Rescue, Don't =
Breed.<BR>The=20
animals don't need your excuses -- they need =
YOU</FONT></EM></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From rodmmcq6@highstream.net  Wed Jun  4 22:48:49 2003
From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net)
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2003 15:48:49 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] What Can I Do For My Diseased Palo Brea Trees
Message-ID: <003101c32aeb$8c07abe0$772c0a3f@ibmbna6040>

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Mike,
The first thinhg that you need to address on your Palo Verde trees is to =
correct your watering practice. Watering for 30 minutes means that the =
water is only penetrating a few inches where it should be penetrating =
three feet deep. The shallow watering encourages the roots to come close =
to the surface for water and  the soil becomes very hot during the =
summer. It also allows the salt which is in our water to remain in the =
root zone. All of which allows the trees to become stressed aand =
stressed trees are a prime target of diseases and insects. Another =
problem with shallow rooted trees is that they are not anchored solidly =
and blow over easily when the monsoons arive.
The Palo Brea are very drought tolerant and can exist on our annual =
rainfall however they won't look very good.
I have several Palo Breas that are summer deep  watered once every two =
weeks with a drip system and they all look beautiful.
I need to see a photo of the new growth which you think is mistletoe in =
order to make a judgement, but I suspect that all the shoots that you =
mentioned is new growth put out by a stressed tree.
The chemical you need for your trees is H2O applied in the proper =
amounts.
A free booklet tilled LANDSCAPE WATERING BY THE NUMBERS is available =
from most nurseries and the Water Conservation office of your city.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
   =20
  -----Original Message-----
  From: Mike <mlshermancpa@cox.net>
  To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
  Date: Sunday, June 01, 2003 10:23 PM
  Subject: [Arid_gardener] What Can I Do For My Diseased Palo Brea Trees


  REQUESTING ASSISTANCE. Please provide assistance on the following tree =
problem:=20



  n          Name and age of plant; Two Palo Brea trees, approximately =
15 years old.=20

  =20

  n          Description of the problem: Both trees have developed =
large, blistered knots and are oozing sap on all major limbs.   Around =
each knot, there lots of green shoots growing.  I suspect that this =
might be mistletoe but not sure.  Also, there are crusty lesions in the =
bark, which are also oozing sap and there is rotting at the joints =
between the large limbs.  We=92ve noticed what appear to be ants in the =
area of the sap.

  =20

  This problem started about 5-7 years ago and has gotten progressively =
worse.  However, the trees still appear to be growing and bloom each =
year. =20

  =20

  n          Location of the trees: Southern exposure, full sun, north =
Scottsdale.  The two infected trees are about 75 feet apart.



  n          How often you water the plant, where you apply the water, =
how much water is applied? Watered 3 times a week for about a half-hour =
using a drip system.

  =20

  n          Are other plants in the vicinity affected?   See below.



  n          Other things that might be affecting the plant =96 not =
determined.



  n          What do you think the problem might be and why: I=92ve =
already mentioned mistletoe but this is just a guess.  Mistletoe also =
seems to be present in our Palo Verde trees but they don=92t have the =
other symptoms.


  =20

  Prunning the diseased areas is not an option as the entire tree is =
infected.  Is there any fertilizer or chemical that will correct this =
problem?


  =20

  Thanks.



  Mike Sherman


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<HTML xmlns:o =3D "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office"><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dwindows-1252">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2600.0" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"COLOR: #000000; FONT-FAMILY: " bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Mike,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>The first thinhg that you need to address on your =
Palo Verde=20
trees is to correct your watering practice. Watering for 30 minutes =
means that=20
the water is only penetrating a few inches where it should be =
penetrating three=20
feet deep. The shallow watering encourages the roots to come close to =
the=20
surface for water and&nbsp; the soil becomes very hot during the summer. =
It also=20
allows the salt which is in our water to remain in the root zone. All of =
which=20
allows the trees to become stressed aand stressed trees are a prime =
target of=20
diseases and insects.&nbsp;Another problem with shallow rooted trees is =
that=20
they are not anchored solidly and blow over easily&nbsp;when the =
monsoons=20
arive.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>The Palo Brea are very drought tolerant and can =
exist on our=20
annual rainfall however they won't look very good.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I have several Palo Breas that are summer=20
deep&nbsp;&nbsp;watered once every two&nbsp;weeks with a drip system and =
they=20
all look beautiful.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I&nbsp;need to see a photo of the new growth which =
you think=20
is mistletoe in order to make a judgement, but I suspect that&nbsp;all =
the=20
shoots that you mentioned is new growth put out by a stressed =
tree.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>The chemical you need for your trees is H2O applied =
in the=20
proper amounts.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>A free booklet tilled LANDSCAPE WATERING BY THE =
NUMBERS is=20
available from most nurseries and the Water Conservation office of your=20
city.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Good luck.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Rod McKusick</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Master Gardener and Arborist</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px =
solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original =
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
  </B>Mike &lt;<A=20
  =
href=3D"mailto:mlshermancpa@cox.net">mlshermancpa@cox.net</A>&gt;<BR><B>T=
o:=20
  </B><A=20
  =
href=3D"mailto:arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu">arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=
</A>=20
  &lt;<A=20
  =
href=3D"mailto:arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu">arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=
</A>&gt;<BR><B>Date:=20
  </B>Sunday, June 01, 2003 10:23 PM<BR><B>Subject: </B>[Arid_gardener] =
What Can=20
  I Do For My Diseased Palo Brea Trees<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>
  <P class=3DMsoNormal style=3D"MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt">REQUESTING =
ASSISTANCE. Please=20
  provide&nbsp;assistance on the following tree problem: <BR=20
  style=3D"mso-special-character: line-break"><BR=20
  style=3D"mso-special-character: line-break"></P>
  <P class=3DMsoNormal=20
  style=3D"MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt 0.25in; TEXT-INDENT: -0.25in; mso-list: =
l1 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .25in"><SPAN=20
  style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 4pt; FONT-FAMILY: Wingdings; mso-bidi-font-size: =
10.0pt">n<SPAN=20
  style=3D"FONT: 7pt 'Times New =
Roman'">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
  </SPAN></SPAN><STRONG>Name and age of plant</STRONG>; Two Palo Brea =
trees,=20
  approximately 15 years old. </P>
  <P class=3DMsoNormal style=3D"MARGIN: 0in 0in =
0pt">&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></P>
  <P class=3DMsoNormal=20
  style=3D"MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt 0.25in; TEXT-INDENT: -0.25in; mso-list: =
l1 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .25in"><SPAN=20
  style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 4pt; FONT-FAMILY: Wingdings; mso-bidi-font-size: =
10.0pt">n<SPAN=20
  style=3D"FONT: 7pt 'Times New =
Roman'">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
  </SPAN></SPAN><STRONG>Description of the problem</STRONG>: Both trees =
have=20
  developed large, blistered knots and are oozing sap on all major =
limbs.<SPAN=20
  style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp;&nbsp; </SPAN>Around each knot, =
there lots of=20
  green shoots growing.<SPAN style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN>I =
suspect=20
  that this might be mistletoe but not sure.<SPAN=20
  style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN>Also, there are crusty =
lesions in the=20
  bark, which are also oozing sap and there is rotting at the joints =
between the=20
  large limbs.<SPAN style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN>We=92ve =
noticed what=20
  appear to be ants in the area of the sap.</P>
  <P class=3DMsoNormal style=3D"MARGIN: 0in 0in =
0pt">&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></P>
  <P class=3DMsoBodyTextIndent style=3D"MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt 0.25in">This =
problem=20
  started about 5-7 years ago and has gotten progressively worse.<SPAN=20
  style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN>However, the trees still =
appear to be=20
  growing and bloom each year.<SPAN style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; =
</SPAN></P>
  <P class=3DMsoNormal style=3D"MARGIN: 0in 0in =
0pt">&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></P>
  <P class=3DMsoNormal=20
  style=3D"MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt 0.25in; TEXT-INDENT: -0.25in; mso-list: =
l1 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .25in"><SPAN=20
  style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 4pt; FONT-FAMILY: Wingdings; mso-bidi-font-size: =
10.0pt">n<SPAN=20
  style=3D"FONT: 7pt 'Times New =
Roman'">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
  </SPAN></SPAN><STRONG>Location of the trees</STRONG>: Southern =
exposure, full=20
  sun, north Scottsdale.<SPAN style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; =
</SPAN>The two=20
  infected trees are about 75 feet apart.<BR=20
  style=3D"mso-special-character: line-break"><BR=20
  style=3D"mso-special-character: line-break"></P>
  <P class=3DMsoNormal=20
  style=3D"MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt 0.25in; TEXT-INDENT: -0.25in; mso-list: =
l1 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .25in"><SPAN=20
  style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 4pt; FONT-FAMILY: Wingdings; mso-bidi-font-size: =
10.0pt">n<SPAN=20
  style=3D"FONT: 7pt 'Times New =
Roman'">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
  </SPAN></SPAN><STRONG>How often you water the plant, where you apply =
the=20
  water, how much water is applied</STRONG>? Watered 3 times a week for =
about a=20
  half-hour using a drip system.</P>
  <P class=3DMsoNormal style=3D"MARGIN: 0in 0in =
0pt">&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></P>
  <P class=3DMsoNormal=20
  style=3D"MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt 0.25in; TEXT-INDENT: -0.25in; mso-list: =
l1 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .25in"><SPAN=20
  style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 4pt; FONT-FAMILY: Wingdings; mso-bidi-font-size: =
10.0pt">n<SPAN=20
  style=3D"FONT: 7pt 'Times New =
Roman'">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
  </SPAN></SPAN><STRONG>Are other plants in the vicinity =
affected?</STRONG><SPAN=20
  style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp;&nbsp; </SPAN>See below.<BR=20
  style=3D"mso-special-character: line-break"><BR=20
  style=3D"mso-special-character: line-break"></P>
  <P class=3DMsoNormal=20
  style=3D"MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt 0.25in; TEXT-INDENT: -0.25in; mso-list: =
l1 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .25in"><SPAN=20
  style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 4pt; FONT-FAMILY: Wingdings; mso-bidi-font-size: =
10.0pt">n<SPAN=20
  style=3D"FONT: 7pt 'Times New =
Roman'">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
  </SPAN></SPAN><STRONG>Other things that might be affecting the =
plant</STRONG>=20
  =96 not determined.<BR style=3D"mso-special-character: line-break"><BR =

  style=3D"mso-special-character: line-break"></P>
  <P class=3DMsoNormal=20
  style=3D"MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt 0.25in; TEXT-INDENT: -0.25in; mso-list: =
l1 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .25in"=20
  align=3Dleft><SPAN=20
  style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 4pt; FONT-FAMILY: Wingdings; mso-bidi-font-size: =
10.0pt">n<SPAN=20
  style=3D"FONT: 7pt 'Times New =
Roman'">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
  </SPAN></SPAN><STRONG>What do you think the problem might be and =
why</STRONG>:=20
  I=92ve already mentioned mistletoe but this is just a guess.<SPAN=20
  style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN>Mistletoe also seems to be =
present in=20
  our Palo Verde trees&nbsp;but they don=92t have the other =
symptoms.</P>
  <P class=3DMsoNormal=20
  style=3D"MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt 0.25in; TEXT-INDENT: -0.25in; mso-list: =
l1 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .25in"=20
  align=3Dleft><BR style=3D"mso-special-character: =
line-break">&nbsp;</P>
  <P class=3DMsoNormal=20
  style=3D"MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt 0.25in; TEXT-INDENT: -0.25in; mso-list: =
l1 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .25in"=20
  align=3Dleft>Prunning the diseased areas is not an option as the =
entire tree is=20
  infected.&nbsp; Is there any fertilizer or chemical that will correct =
this=20
  problem?<BR style=3D"mso-special-character: line-break"></P>
  <P class=3DMsoNormal style=3D"MARGIN: 0in 0in =
0pt"><o:p></o:p>&nbsp;</P>
  <P class=3DMsoNormal style=3D"MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt">Thanks.</P>
  <P class=3DMsoNormal style=3D"MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt">&nbsp;</P>
  <P class=3DMsoNormal style=3D"MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt">Mike=20
  Sherman</P></FONT></DIV></FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From rodmmcq6@highstream.net  Wed Jun  4 23:10:06 2003
From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net)
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2003 16:10:06 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <003c01c32aee$71490620$772c0a3f@ibmbna6040>

Barry,
You said that you have one mesquite that is doing well and another that is
not doing well.
Here are some possibilities:
    One tree may have good drainage and the other have poor drainage.
   If you live in an area where there is caliche, the caliche could be
affecting one and not the other.
   One tree could be getting more water than the other.
   The soil could be compacted where one tree is located.
   There could be construction debris under one tree.
   One tree could have been root bound when planted.
   Has there been any construction activity near the tree?
   Have you applied any weed killer near the tree ?
If none of the above apply I would suggest deep watering the tree every two
weeks during the summer.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener



-----Original Message-----
From: leshowitz@asu.edu <leshowitz@asu.edu>
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Date: Sunday, June 01, 2003 10:22 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page


>My 5-year-old Mesquite tree in not doing well. The tree shows little growht
this year and its leaves are pale green. A mesquite 20 feet from it is doing
wondefully. I recently deep watered the tree in the hope it was just lacking
water.
>Please advise.
>Barry Leshowitz
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>


From abenamar@earthlink.net  Wed Jun  4 22:52:35 2003
From: abenamar@earthlink.net (abenamar@earthlink.net)
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2003 15:52:35 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306042252.h54MqZBS019970@Ag.arizona.edu>

I keep reading that one shouldn't plant too close to the house to avoid disturbing the "termite barrier", but no details.  How close is too close?  How deep is this barrier?  Is it just along the house or along the porch
slab as well?  How do you find out if you have a physical barrier or a chemical one that needs to be reapplied periodically?

Thanks,
Linda Wilson


From rodmmcq6@highstream.net  Wed Jun  4 23:26:39 2003
From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net)
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2003 16:26:39 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bermuda grass, planting
Message-ID: <004101c32af0$c24dc4a0$772c0a3f@ibmbna6040>

Here in the low desert bermuda grass can be seeded up to about August 1st.
Information is available on line about planting and lawn care at:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener

-----Original Message-----
From: linda.l.van@boeing.com <linda.l.van@boeing.com>
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Date: Monday, June 02, 2003 10:15 AM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page


>Is it too late to bald the lawn and seed burmuda?
>If ok to do this time of year, what is the procedure?
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>


From watsontl@mindspring.com  Thu Jun  5 00:43:31 2003
From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson)
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2003 17:43:31 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Compost Dummy
References: <003901c32a52$68e181c0$05003b41@stewart>
Message-ID: <002c01c32afb$7d8df8c0$1209b83f@S0029317241>

Patience may be a factor.   How long have you been letting this stuff
compost?

The main problem I have composting here in Tucson is moisture.   If the bin
gets on the dry side, things really slow down.   We wet it down about once a
week and our material (a mix of mesquite pods/litter, kitchen scraps, and
privet leaves mostly) takes a couple of months to yield usable compost.
I'd think the stuff you have (and talk about an embarassment of riches!)
would go faster than that, but I've never worked with goat or chicken
manure, so I can't say that for certain.   Other than moisture, lack of air
can slow things, but it sounds like you have that issue well in hand.   It
also sounds like you have a good mix of ingredients to make compost.

By the way, compost dummies are gardeners who don't try to compost.   So
don't be so hard on yourself!

Tom

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Starlene Stewart" <starlene@starlene.com>
To: <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2003 9:33 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Compost Dummy


> Hi,
>
> In my previous post I mentioned that I've been using Duane Newcomb's
> intensive gardening techniques for almost a decade.
>
> However, I am beginning to change my gardening methods somewhat.  For one
> thing, we have a lot more room to garden, the current one is 18' x 22'.
>
> In addition to the room, we now have chickens, and goats.  I'm trying to
> figure out how to manage their manure for use in the garden.  I'm told
goat
> manure is perfect right away, while I know chicken manure is "hot".
>
> So far what I've been doing is taking the hay stems that the goats will
not
> eat (and have been pooping and peeing on since they pulled the stems from
> the manger and dropped them on the ground) and putting it in the chicken
> yard under their roosts.  They love scratching around in it, and it
cushions
> their landing in the morning when they fly down from the roosts.
>
> After a month or so it's time to clean out the goat's barn again.  But
first
> I remove the now nicely chopped up hay stems (the chickens peck and
scratch
> it into little bits, also now rich with chicken poop) from the chicken
yard
> into a pile surrounded by wooden pallets.  Then I start all over -- bring
> the hay stems to the chickens, etc.
>
> I soak the hay/manure pile with water, and use a fork to move it around
> somewhat, but it never turns into that pretty brown earth smelling compost
> that I'm wishing for.  It is certainly hot enough to "cook".  Maybe I'm
not
> being patient enough?
>
> I also have a giant pile of cow manure (fresh originally, but now about
four
> months old) in a different area that I don't do anything with.
>
> What else should I be doing?  I feel like a composting dummy.
>
> Starlene
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>



From watsontl@mindspring.com  Thu Jun  5 00:34:38 2003
From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson)
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2003 17:34:38 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] salt in soil
References: <003d01c32ab7$23afee60$633c10ac@gr.casino>
Message-ID: <001d01c32afa$405fb2f0$1209b83f@S0029317241>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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	charset="Windows-1252"
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I'm curious: what is it you are seeing that makes you think the soil is =
full of salt?   (It would help to solve the problem to know this.)

Tom
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: JJE=20
  To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20
  Sent: Wednesday, June 04, 2003 9:34 AM
  Subject: [Arid_gardener] salt in soil


  I was told to run my drip irrigation for 24 hours once a year to leach =
the salts out of the soil.  Is there any other way as I did that in my =
veggie bed but the soil is still full of salt about 8 inches down.
  Thanks

  Spay/Neuter, Adopt, Rescue, Don't Breed.
  The animals don't need your excuses -- they need YOU
------=_NextPart_000_001A_01C32ABF.92E531C0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="Windows-1252"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dwindows-1252">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1170" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I'm curious: what is it you are seeing =
that makes=20
you think the soil is full of salt?&nbsp;&nbsp; (It would help to solve =
the=20
problem to know this.)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Tom</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3Ddelsea@qwest.net href=3D"mailto:delsea@qwest.net">JJE</A> =
</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Darid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20
  =
href=3D"mailto:arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu">arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=
</A>=20
  </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, June 04, 2003 =
9:34=20
  AM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [Arid_gardener] salt =
in=20
  soil</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV><EM><FONT color=3D#008080>I was told to run my drip irrigation =
for 24 hours=20
  once a year to leach the salts out of the soil.&nbsp; Is there any =
other way=20
  as I did that in my veggie bed but the soil is still full of salt =
about 8=20
  inches down.</FONT></EM></DIV>
  <DIV><EM><FONT color=3D#008080>Thanks</FONT></EM></DIV>
  <DIV><EM><FONT color=3D#008080></FONT></EM>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><EM><FONT color=3D#008080>Spay/Neuter, Adopt, Rescue, Don't =
Breed.<BR>The=20
  animals don't need your excuses -- they need=20
YOU</FONT></EM></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_001A_01C32ABF.92E531C0--



From HOTSTUFF0327@hotmail.com  Thu Jun  5 05:36:31 2003
From: HOTSTUFF0327@hotmail.com (PHILIP  CUIFFO)
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 01:36:31 -0400
Subject: [Arid_gardener] EUCALYPTUS MULCH
Message-ID: <Law9-OE26UJfT73Ao3e0002e958@hotmail.com>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C32B02.E454D680
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I live in the NorthEast, Long Island N.Y.  Looking to purchase some =
Eucalyptus Mulch which I've heard lots of good things about it. The =
problem is I can't seem to find any in these parts.
Could you possibly know of any Garden suppliers who carry some.
Thank you
Phil

------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C32B02.E454D680
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I live in the NorthEast, Long Island =
N.Y.&nbsp;=20
Looking to purchase some Eucalyptus Mulch which I've heard lots of good =
things=20
about it. The problem is I can't seem to find any in these =
parts.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Could you possibly know of any Garden =
suppliers who=20
carry some.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thank you</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Phil</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From Chris_Nichols@Dell.com  Thu Jun  5 15:52:48 2003
From: Chris_Nichols@Dell.com (Chris_Nichols@Dell.com)
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 10:52:48 -0500
Subject: [Arid_gardener] eucalyptus mulch
Message-ID: <451D83A24404FD4DA2B6C5495A9654CD083BD6@AUSXMPS318.aus.amer.dell.com>

here's a google search....
Question: Is there any commercial use for eucalyptus, cottonwood, or willow
trees other than for energy crops?
Answer: Eucalyptus trees have commercial value as landscaping mulch. If you
visit any Home Depot in the U.S., their eucalyptus mulch comes from Florida!




From bholc@juno.com  Thu Jun  5 16:49:27 2003
From: bholc@juno.com (bholc@juno.com)
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 09:49:27 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Amber-colored sap globules
Message-ID: <20030605.094928.-1853041.0.bholc@juno.com>

Our grapefruit and mesquite trees, both have these,
and the bark, especially on the mesquite, is separating
from the wood, all over the mesquite.  On the grapefruit,
one large branch died and we removed that, and haven't
noticed any spreading on that one lately.
  We've been painting on the "sap" areas, a liquified
mixture of Bordeau Mixture and a Chlorothalonil fungicide
but it seems to be continueing to spread on the mesquite.

I believe that Lucy Bradley sent you an email from us
some time ago, but we haven't heard anything from anyone
as to what the problem may be or what can be done, etc.
Thank you.

Boyd Holcomb, 13854 Tan Tara Dr., Sun City, AZ 85351
bholc@juno.com

From gusbalons@aol.com  Thu Jun  5 20:18:34 2003
From: gusbalons@aol.com (gusbalons@aol.com)
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 13:18:34 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306052018.h55KIYBS024568@Ag.arizona.edu>

Do creosote bushes create problems for seasonal allergy sufferers?


From rodmmcq6@highstream.net  Thu Jun  5 23:51:41 2003
From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net)
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 16:51:41 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Amber-colored sap globules
Message-ID: <002701c32bbd$6b2f9680$1331db43@ibmbna6040>

Boyd,
It is common for most Eucalyptus trees to shed their bark and to show sap
globules.
As for the grapefruit tree it sounds as though the tree may have a fungus
called Rio Grande Gummosis. Unfortunately there is not any treatment
available for this fungus. The trees may appear unhealthy and yellow but
seldom die.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
-----Original Message-----
From: bholc@juno.com <bholc@juno.com>
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Date: Thursday, June 05, 2003 10:13 AM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Amber-colored sap globules


>Our grapefruit and mesquite trees, both have these,
>and the bark, especially on the mesquite, is separating
>from the wood, all over the mesquite.  On the grapefruit,
>one large branch died and we removed that, and haven't
>noticed any spreading on that one lately.
>  We've been painting on the "sap" areas, a liquified
>mixture of Bordeau Mixture and a Chlorothalonil fungicide
>but it seems to be continueing to spread on the mesquite.
>
>I believe that Lucy Bradley sent you an email from us
>some time ago, but we haven't heard anything from anyone
>as to what the problem may be or what can be done, etc.
>Thank you.
>
>Boyd Holcomb, 13854 Tan Tara Dr., Sun City, AZ 85351
>bholc@juno.com
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>


From Jonathan Kandell" <jkandell@sysmatrix.net  Fri Jun  6 01:43:25 2003
From: Jonathan Kandell" <jkandell@sysmatrix.net (Jonathan Kandell)
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 18:43:25 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Compost Dummy
References: <003901c32a52$68e181c0$05003b41@stewart> <002c01c32afb$7d8df8c0$1209b83f@S0029317241>
Message-ID: <006201c32bce$6160d860$cd178144@oemcomputer>

Jane Nuhuis's "Desert Gardening" recommends pit-composting for the desert
for this reason, it keeps moisture in.
jk

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tom & Linda Watson" <watsontl@mindspring.com>
To: "Starlene Stewart" <starlene@starlene.com>;
<arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Sent: Wednesday, June 04, 2003 5:43 PM
Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Compost Dummy


> Patience may be a factor.   How long have you been letting this stuff
> compost?
>
> The main problem I have composting here in Tucson is moisture.   If the
bin
> gets on the dry side, things really slow down.   We wet it down about once
a
> week and our material (a mix of mesquite pods/litter, kitchen scraps, and
> privet leaves mostly) takes a couple of months to yield usable compost.
> I'd think the stuff you have (and talk about an embarassment of riches!)
> would go faster than that, but I've never worked with goat or chicken
> manure, so I can't say that for certain.   Other than moisture, lack of
air
> can slow things, but it sounds like you have that issue well in hand.   It
> also sounds like you have a good mix of ingredients to make compost.
>
> By the way, compost dummies are gardeners who don't try to compost.   So
> don't be so hard on yourself!
>
> Tom
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Starlene Stewart" <starlene@starlene.com>
> To: <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2003 9:33 PM
> Subject: [Arid_gardener] Compost Dummy
>
>
> > Hi,
> >
> > In my previous post I mentioned that I've been using Duane Newcomb's
> > intensive gardening techniques for almost a decade.
> >
> > However, I am beginning to change my gardening methods somewhat.  For
one
> > thing, we have a lot more room to garden, the current one is 18' x 22'.
> >
> > In addition to the room, we now have chickens, and goats.  I'm trying to
> > figure out how to manage their manure for use in the garden.  I'm told
> goat
> > manure is perfect right away, while I know chicken manure is "hot".
> >
> > So far what I've been doing is taking the hay stems that the goats will
> not
> > eat (and have been pooping and peeing on since they pulled the stems
from
> > the manger and dropped them on the ground) and putting it in the chicken
> > yard under their roosts.  They love scratching around in it, and it
> cushions
> > their landing in the morning when they fly down from the roosts.
> >
> > After a month or so it's time to clean out the goat's barn again.  But
> first
> > I remove the now nicely chopped up hay stems (the chickens peck and
> scratch
> > it into little bits, also now rich with chicken poop) from the chicken
> yard
> > into a pile surrounded by wooden pallets.  Then I start all over -- 
bring
> > the hay stems to the chickens, etc.
> >
> > I soak the hay/manure pile with water, and use a fork to move it around
> > somewhat, but it never turns into that pretty brown earth smelling
compost
> > that I'm wishing for.  It is certainly hot enough to "cook".  Maybe I'm
> not
> > being patient enough?
> >
> > I also have a giant pile of cow manure (fresh originally, but now about
> four
> > months old) in a different area that I don't do anything with.
> >
> > What else should I be doing?  I feel like a composting dummy.
> >
> > Starlene
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Arid_gardener mailing list
> > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>


From ab7mx@msn.com  Fri Jun  6 00:49:17 2003
From: ab7mx@msn.com (gary roberts)
Date: Thu, 05 Jun 2003 17:49:17 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] bamboo
Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20030605174852.02f9fdd0@ag.arizona.edu>

--=====================_27028024==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

my neighbors bamboo is coming up in my yard. I have a pecan tree about
5 feet from the bamboo. the pecan tree was there way before he moved
in and planted the bamboo. how do I get rid of the bamboo?
I do not want his bamboo to take over my grass and yard. 
thanks. 
Gary    <mailto:ab7mx@msn.com>ab7mx@msn.com



--=====================_27028024==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
my neighbors bamboo is coming up in my yard. I have a pecan tree
about<br>
5 feet from the bamboo. the pecan tree was there way before he 
moved<br>
in and planted the bamboo. how do I get rid of the bamboo?<br>
I do not want his bamboo to take over my grass and yard.
thanks.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
Gary&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
<a href="mailto:ab7mx@msn.com">ab7mx@msn.com</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
<br>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
 <br><br>
</html>

--=====================_27028024==_.ALT--


From gwright@Ag.arizona.edu  Fri Jun  6 15:58:12 2003
From: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu (Glenn C. Wright)
Date: Fri, 06 Jun 2003 08:58:12 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: Grapefruit tree pruning
Message-ID: <5.1.1.6.2.20030606085757.00bcb458@ag.arizona.edu>

--=====================_779762359==.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed


>From: "Larry Olsen" <LarryROlsen@cox.net>
>To: <gwright@Ag.arizona.edu>
>Subject: Grapefruit tree pruning
>Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2003 21:50:23 -0700
>X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook IMO, Build 9.0.2416 (9.0.2910.0)
>Importance: Normal
>
>Glenn,
>
>I have a grapefruit tree that is getting out of control from a growth 
>standpoint. It appears healthy with a lot fruit and leaves are green.
>
>The branches are getting close to the ground and it's starting to look 
>loop sided. There is some dead wood in the interior.
>
>When is a good time to prune?
>
>How severe?
>
>Do you have any publications on pruning grapefruit trees in Arizona.
>
>I live in Phoenix
>
>Thnaks for your help
>
>Larry

Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D.
Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist
University of Arizona - Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center
2186 W. County 15th Street
Somerton, AZ 85350
Phone: 928-726-0458
FAX: 928-726-1363
e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu
--=====================_779762359==.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
<font size=3><br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>From: &quot;Larry Olsen&quot;
&lt;LarryROlsen@cox.net&gt;<br>
To: &lt;gwright@Ag.arizona.edu&gt;<br>
Subject: Grapefruit tree pruning<br>
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2003 21:50:23 -0700<br>
X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook IMO, Build 9.0.2416 (9.0.2910.0)<br>
Importance: Normal<br><br>
</font><font face="arial" size=2>Glenn,</font><font size=3><br>
&nbsp;<br>
</font><font face="arial" size=2>I have a grapefruit tree that is getting
out of control from a growth standpoint. It appears healthy with a lot
fruit and leaves are green.</font><font size=3><br>
&nbsp;<br>
</font><font face="arial" size=2>The branches are getting close to the
ground and it's starting to look loop sided. There is some dead wood in
the interior.</font><font size=3><br>
&nbsp;<br>
</font><font face="arial" size=2>When is a good time to
prune?</font><font size=3><br>
&nbsp;<br>
</font><font face="arial" size=2>How severe?</font><font size=3><br>
&nbsp;<br>
</font><font face="arial" size=2>Do you have any publications on pruning
grapefruit trees in Arizona.</font><font size=3><br>
&nbsp;<br>
</font><font face="arial" size=2>I live in
Phoenix</font><font size=3><br>
&nbsp;<br>
</font><font face="arial" size=2>Thnaks for your
help</font><font size=3><br>
&nbsp;<br>
</font><font face="arial" size=2>Larry</font><font size=3></blockquote>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D.<br>
Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist<br>
University of Arizona - Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center<br>
2186 W. County 15th Street<br>
Somerton, AZ 85350<br>
Phone: 928-726-0458<br>
FAX: 928-726-1363<br>
e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu</font></html>

--=====================_779762359==.ALT--



From BeverlyFz2@aol.com  Fri Jun  6 14:10:14 2003
From: BeverlyFz2@aol.com (BeverlyFz2@aol.com)
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2003 10:10:14 EDT
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oleanders
Message-ID: <7a.414f59d7.2c11fac6@aol.com>

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Are oleanders really poisonous?  Thx B

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<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=
=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">Are oleanders really poisonous?&nbsp; Thx B</FONT></HT=
ML>

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From ASaperstein@PeaceCorps.gov  Thu Jun  5 21:00:07 2003
From: ASaperstein@PeaceCorps.gov (Saperstein, Alexandra)
Date: Thu, 05 Jun 2003 14:00:07 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Peace Corps Recruiter Coming to Arizona June 7th-16th!
Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20030605135941.01cbad40@ag.arizona.edu>

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PEACE CORPS JOB RECRUITING EVENTS & INTERVIEWS

  JUNE 7-16th in ARIZONA!



Are you or anyone you know looking for work that can provide you with one=20
of the most meaningful, all-expense paid travel adventures of a lifetime?=20
The United States Peace Corps, founded by President Kennedy in 1961, sends=
=20
more than 3,000 American citizens, many whom are recent college graduates,=
=20
to more than 75 countries worldwide every year across Africa, Asia, South=20
America, Eastern Europe, South Pacific, and the Caribbean. Peace Corps=20
covers all living/travel/health/training expenses while you gain two years=
=20
of international development experience, fluency in a foreign language, and=
=20
have the extraordinary opportunity to live in a foreign country for two=20
years. We have positions open in many areas including Education/Teaching,=20
Agriculture, Business Development, Public Health, Information Technology,=20
Forestry / Environmental Education, and Community Development/ Social Work.



Peace Corps Regional Recruiter, Cristina Hernandez, will be holding=20
presentations throughout Arizona this coming week (please see events=20
below). Ms. Hernandez will also available by appointment by calling (310)=20
356-1111.



We look very forward to seeing you there!




Saturday, June 7th                                  Thursday, June=20
12                             Monday, June 16th

2:00pm- 3:30pm                         3:00pm =96=20
4:30pm                           7:00pm =96 8:30pm

Information Session                      Information=20
Session                          Prescott City Gov. Adult Center

Sedona Public Library                  Cottonwood Public=20
Library              335 E. Aubrey St.

3250 White Bear Rd                     100 South 6th=20
St                                Prescott, AZ 86302

Sedona, AZ 86336                       Cottonwood, AZ 86326










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<html>
<img src=3D"cid:5.1.0.14.2.20030605135941.01cbad40@ag.arizona.edu.0"=
 alt=3D"c151cb.jpg">&nbsp;<br><br>
<div align=3D"center"><font face=3D"arial" size=3D4 color=3D"#427D64"><b><u>=
PEACE
CORPS JOB RECRUITING EVENTS &amp; INTERVIEWS<br><br>
&nbsp;JUNE 7-16<sup>th</sup> in ARIZONA!<br><br>
</u></b></font></div>
<font face=3D"arial" color=3D"#427D64">&nbsp;<br><br>
Are you or anyone you know looking for work that can provide you with one
of the most meaningful, all-expense paid travel adventures of a lifetime?
The United States Peace Corps, founded by President Kennedy in 1961,
sends more than 3,000 American citizens, many whom are recent college
graduates, to more than 75 countries worldwide every year across Africa,
Asia, South America, Eastern Europe, South Pacific, and the Caribbean.
Peace Corps covers all living/travel/health/training expenses while you
gain two years of international development experience, fluency in a
foreign language, and have the extraordinary opportunity to live in a
foreign country for two years. We have positions open in many areas
including Education/Teaching, Agriculture, Business Development, Public
Health, Information Technology, Forestry / Environmental Education, and
Community Development/ Social Work.<br><br>
&nbsp;<br><br>
Peace Corps Regional Recruiter, Cristina Hernandez, will be holding
presentations throughout Arizona this coming week (please see events
below). Ms. Hernandez will also available by appointment by calling (310)
356-1111. <br><br>
&nbsp;<br><br>
We look very forward to seeing you there!<br><br>
&nbsp;<br><br>
</font><h1><font face=3D"Times New Roman, Times" color=3D"#427D64"><b>Saturd=
ay,
June
7th&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&=
nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
</sup>Thursday, June
12&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&n=
bsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
Monday, June
16th</sup></b></font></h1><font face=3D"arial" color=3D"#427D64"><b>2:00pm-
3:30pm&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
3:00pm =96
4:30pm&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&n=
bsp;&nbsp;
7:00pm =96 8:30pm<br><br>
</b>Information
Session&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb=
sp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
Information
Session&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb=
sp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&=
nbsp;
Prescott City Gov. Adult Center<br><br>
Sedona Public
Library&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb=
sp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
Cottonwood Public
Library&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb=
sp;&nbsp;
335 E. Aubrey St.<br><br>
3250 White Bear
Rd&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&n=
bsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
100 South 6<sup>th</sup>
St&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&n=
bsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
Prescott, AZ 86302<br><br>
Sedona, AZ
86336&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
Cottonwood, AZ 86326<br><br>
&nbsp;<br><br>
&nbsp;<br><br>
&nbsp;<br><br>
&nbsp;<br><br>
</font></html>

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From gwright@Ag.arizona.edu  Fri Jun  6 15:57:23 2003
From: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu (Glenn C. Wright)
Date: Fri, 06 Jun 2003 08:57:23 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Note to the Master Gardeners
Message-ID: <5.1.1.6.2.20030606084357.00bc34c0@ag.arizona.edu>

Hello MG's:
I am the Citrus Specialist at the U of A, and I monitor this list serve 
regularly in case any of you have difficulty answering a question about 
citrus.  I have met several of you in person, but there are also some of 
you whom I have not had the pleasure of meeting.

In the course of my job, I find that I must spend most of my time assisting 
commercial growers, although I do spend some of my time teaching MG 
courses.  I try to avoid answering homeowner citrus questions, because I 
could easily be overwhelmed.  Also, you all are quite knowledgeable, and 
can handle most inquiries.  However, I regularly receive e-mails from 
homeowners, and unless the question is truly unique, I will forward them on 
to the arid gardener list.

Recently I forwarded two messages, and the replies came from the MG direct 
to me, rather than to the original  sender.  I then forwarded the reply to 
the sender.  So the message is that if you see a message from me, chances 
are it is a forwarded posting.  Please reply to the original sender, as I 
cannot always be here to forward the message myself in a timely manner.

Thanks for your understanding of this matter, and thanks for providing such 
a valuable service for me and for the other U of A professionals who rely 
on you all to answer the great majority of  homeowner gardening questions.

Best regards,
GCW


Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D.
Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist
University of Arizona - Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center
2186 W. County 15th Street
Somerton, AZ 85350
Phone: 928-726-0458
FAX: 928-726-1363
e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu



From watsontl@mindspring.com  Sat Jun  7 01:10:16 2003
From: watsontl@mindspring.com (watsontl@mindspring.com)
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2003 18:10:16 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oleanders
Message-ID: <1567952.1054936966396.JavaMail.nobody@wamui10.slb.atl.earthlink.net>

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Yes they are, to members of the animal kingdom.  The toxins effect the cardiovascular system and can be quite dangerous if ingested (or inhaled - NEVER use oleander as kindling or firewood!)  I have not found, however (and contrary to common belief) that oleanders are especially toxic to plants.   A considerable amount of the yard waste I compost consists of oleander leaves and flowers.   I have never had any trouble with the compost I harvest.

Tom

Original message attached.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">Are oleanders really poisonous?&nbsp; Thx B</FONT></HTML>

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From rodmmcq6@highstream.net  Fri Jun  6 21:49:36 2003
From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net)
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2003 14:49:36 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oleanders
Message-ID: <001b01c32c75$873fb180$77a9db43@ibmbna6040>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Beverly,
Yes the leaves, wood and bark from oleanders are poisonous. Even the =
smoke from burning oleander wood is toxic.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
  -----Original Message-----
  From: BeverlyFz2@aol.com <BeverlyFz2@aol.com>
  To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
  Date: Friday, June 06, 2003 9:16 AM
  Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oleanders


  Are oleanders really poisonous?  Thx B=20

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dwindows-1252">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2600.0" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"COLOR: #000000; FONT-FAMILY: " bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Beverly,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Yes the leaves, wood and bark from oleanders are =
poisonous.=20
Even the smoke from burning oleander wood is toxic.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Good luck.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Rod McKusick</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Master Gardener</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px =
solid">
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original =
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
  </B><A href=3D"mailto:BeverlyFz2@aol.com">BeverlyFz2@aol.com</A> =
&lt;<A=20
  =
href=3D"mailto:BeverlyFz2@aol.com">BeverlyFz2@aol.com</A>&gt;<BR><B>To: =
</B><A=20
  =
href=3D"mailto:arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu">arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=
</A>=20
  &lt;<A=20
  =
href=3D"mailto:arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu">arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=
</A>&gt;<BR><B>Date:=20
  </B>Friday, June 06, 2003 9:16 AM<BR><B>Subject: </B>[Arid_gardener]=20
  Oleanders<BR><BR></DIV></FONT><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT =
lang=3D0=20
  face=3DArial size=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF">Are oleanders really =
poisonous?&nbsp; Thx=20
  B</FONT> </FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From rodmmcq6@highstream.net  Fri Jun  6 22:09:47 2003
From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net)
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2003 15:09:47 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: Grapefruit tree pruning
Message-ID: <001801c32c78$592069e0$77a9db43@ibmbna6040>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Larry,
I'm answering your email sent to Glen Wright.
Citrus should not be pruned except to remove dead or crossing branches,
suckers that grow from below the graft and wayward growth.Then care must =
be
taken not to expose the trunk or branches to sunburn. Never trim just =
for
the sake of trimming. Dead branches can be removed at any time however =
spring is the preferred time to do any other pruning.
An excellent bulletin titled Citrus in the Home Garden is available for =
$1.00 from  U. of A., Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. =
Broadway, Phoenix 85040.


-----Original Message-----
From: Glenn C. Wright <gwright@Ag.arizona.edu>
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Date: Friday, June 06, 2003 9:15 AM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: Grapefruit tree pruning




    From: "Larry Olsen" <LarryROlsen@cox.net>
    To: <gwright@Ag.arizona.edu>
    Subject: Grapefruit tree pruning
    Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2003 21:50:23 -0700
    X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook IMO, Build 9.0.2416 (9.0.2910.0)
    Importance: Normal

    Glenn,
    =20
    I have a grapefruit tree that is getting out of control from a =
growth standpoint. It appears healthy with a lot fruit and leaves are =
green.
    =20
    The branches are getting close to the ground and it's starting to =
look loop sided. There is some dead wood in the interior.
    =20
    When is a good time to prune?
    =20
    How severe?
    =20
    Do you have any publications on pruning grapefruit trees in Arizona.
    =20
    I live in Phoenix
    =20
    Thnaks for your help
    =20
    Larry
  Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D.
  Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist
  University of Arizona - Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center
  2186 W. County 15th Street
  Somerton, AZ 85350
  Phone: 928-726-0458
  FAX: 928-726-1363
  e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu=20


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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dwindows-1252">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2600.0" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style=3D"COLOR: #000000; FONT-FAMILY: " bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Larry,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I'm answering your email sent to Glen =
Wright.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><FONT size=3D3>Citrus should not be pruned except to =
remove dead=20
or crossing branches,<BR>suckers that grow from below the graft and =
wayward=20
growth.Then care must be<BR>taken not to expose the trunk or branches to =

sunburn. Never trim just for<BR>the sake of trimming. Dead branches can =
be=20
removed at any time however spring is the preferred time to do any other =

pruning.</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><FONT size=3D3>An excellent bulletin titled Citrus =
in the Home=20
Garden is available for $1.00 from&nbsp;&nbsp;</FONT><FONT size=3D2>U. =
of A.,=20
Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix=20
85040.<BR></FONT></DIV></FONT>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial><FONT size=3D2><B>-----Original =
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
</B>Glenn C. Wright &lt;</FONT><A =
href=3D"mailto:gwright@Ag.arizona.edu"><FONT=20
size=3D2>gwright@Ag.arizona.edu</FONT></A><FONT size=3D2>&gt;<BR><B>To:=20
</B></FONT><A href=3D"mailto:arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu"><FONT=20
size=3D2>arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu</FONT></A><FONT size=3D2> =
&lt;</FONT><A=20
href=3D"mailto:arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu"><FONT=20
size=3D2>arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu</FONT></A><FONT =
size=3D2>&gt;<BR><B>Date:=20
</B>Friday, June 06, 2003 9:15 AM<BR><B>Subject: </B>[Arid_gardener] =
Fwd:=20
Grapefruit tree pruning<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px =
solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"></FONT><FONT=20
  size=3D3><BR>
  <BLOCKQUOTE class=3Dcite cite=3D"" type=3D"cite">From: "Larry Olsen" =
&lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:LarryROlsen@cox.net">LarryROlsen@cox.net</A>&gt;<BR>To: =
&lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:gwright@Ag.arizona.edu">gwright@Ag.arizona.edu</A>&gt;<BR>=
Subject:=20
    Grapefruit tree pruning<BR>Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2003 21:50:23 =
-0700<BR>X-Mailer:=20
    Microsoft Outlook IMO, Build 9.0.2416 (9.0.2910.0)<BR>Importance:=20
    Normal<BR><BR></FONT><FONT face=3Darial size=3D2>Glenn,</FONT><FONT=20
    size=3D3><BR>&nbsp;<BR></FONT><FONT face=3Darial size=3D2>I have a =
grapefruit tree=20
    that is getting out of control from a growth standpoint. It appears =
healthy=20
    with a lot fruit and leaves are green.</FONT><FONT=20
    size=3D3><BR>&nbsp;<BR></FONT><FONT face=3Darial size=3D2>The =
branches are getting=20
    close to the ground and it's starting to look loop sided. There is =
some dead=20
    wood in the interior.</FONT><FONT =
size=3D3><BR>&nbsp;<BR></FONT><FONT=20
    face=3Darial size=3D2>When is a good time to prune?</FONT><FONT=20
    size=3D3><BR>&nbsp;<BR></FONT><FONT face=3Darial size=3D2>How =
severe?</FONT><FONT=20
    size=3D3><BR>&nbsp;<BR></FONT><FONT face=3Darial size=3D2>Do you =
have any=20
    publications on pruning grapefruit trees in Arizona.</FONT><FONT=20
    size=3D3><BR>&nbsp;<BR></FONT><FONT face=3Darial size=3D2>I live in=20
    Phoenix</FONT><FONT size=3D3><BR>&nbsp;<BR></FONT><FONT face=3Darial =

    size=3D2>Thnaks for your help</FONT><FONT =
size=3D3><BR>&nbsp;<BR></FONT><FONT=20
    face=3Darial size=3D2>Larry</FONT><FONT =
size=3D3></BLOCKQUOTE><X-SIGSEP>
  <P></X-SIGSEP>Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D.<BR>Associate Research Scientist =
and=20
  Citrus Specialist<BR>University of Arizona - Yuma Mesa Agriculture=20
  Center<BR>2186 W. County 15th Street<BR>Somerton, AZ 85350<BR>Phone:=20
  928-726-0458<BR>FAX: 928-726-1363<BR>e-mail: =
gwright@ag.arizona.edu</FONT>=20
</P></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From drew_linda@hotmail.com  Sat Jun  7 01:57:37 2003
From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew)
Date: Sat, 07 Jun 2003 01:57:37 +0000
Subject: [Arid_gardener] creosote good choice for allergic people
Message-ID: <Law14-F40xHYvRvNNab00007274@hotmail.com>

No. Creosote is listed as a plant suitable for homes of allergic people.

For more information, see:

    
http://www.peds.arizona.edu/allergyimmunology/southwest/lowallrgyshrubs.htm

In general, the plants that cause allergies for most people are those plants 
that
have insignificant flowers (i.e. grasses, weeds) - these are usually 
wind-pollinated.
The plants with noticeable flowers are usually pollinated by insects and 
don't usually
cause much allergy.

Allergenic plants listed in the above site include:   
http://www.peds.arizona.edu/allergyimmunology/southwest/grass_weeds/index.html

"Native allergenic plants include triangle leaf bursage (a species of  
Ambrosia), desert ragweed (Ambrosia dumosa), desert broom (Baccharis), Wing 
Scale (Atriplex canescens), Mesquite (Prosopis) and PaloVerde (Cercidium).  
A large number of introduced trees, shrubs and grasses, such as Olive, White 
Mulberry, Russian Thistle (Salsola) and Bermuda grass (Cynodon dactylon), 
produce allergenic pollen. "

Various molds and dust are also allergens for some people.

Linda Drew
Master Gardener

>From: gusbalons@aol.com
>To: <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
>Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 13:18:34 -0700 (MST)
>
>Do creosote bushes create problems for seasonal allergy sufferers?
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener

_________________________________________________________________
Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.  
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail


From mishelle@usscreen.com  Fri Jun  6 22:41:50 2003
From: mishelle@usscreen.com (Mishelle Fresener)
Date: Fri, 06 Jun 2003 15:41:50 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oleanders
Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20030606154027.02fb3ec0@mail2.usscreen.com>

  I know that oleanders are toxic but I had a goat that ate them for 15 
years. I never understood how!

Mishelle


From eavance@netzero.net  Sat Jun  7 16:37:26 2003
From: eavance@netzero.net (eavance@netzero.net)
Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 09:37:26 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306071637.h57GbQQH029599@Ag.arizona.edu>

I Have an Oleander that is about a year old now and it is growing like crazy and blooming beautifully but the problem is it needs to be pruned as it is gangly looking and needs to be fuller.  I had also thought of training it to be a tree.  I have no idea about when or the proper method of puning.  I have the same problem with Potato bushes.
Would appreciate any help you could give me.
Thanks, B Vance


From Jonathan Kandell" <jkandell@sysmatrix.net  Sat Jun  7 16:51:20 2003
From: Jonathan Kandell" <jkandell@sysmatrix.net (Jonathan Kandell)
Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 09:51:20 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] potato question
Message-ID: <004d01c32d16$aa760ea0$0b178144@oemcomputer>

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I have irish potatoes growing in Tucson AZ. The plants are flowering and =
still strong.  I thought by now the plants would be dying.  How do I =
ensure that I dig them up before the potatoes sprout new plants from =
them and get ruined (in July?)?
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>I have irish potatoes growing in Tucson AZ. The =
plants are=20
flowering and still strong.&nbsp; I thought by now the plants would be=20
dying.&nbsp; How do I ensure that I dig them up before the potatoes =
sprout new=20
plants from them and get ruined (in July?)?</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From watsontl@mindspring.com  Sat Jun  7 12:50:06 2003
From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson)
Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 05:50:06 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oleanders
References: <5.1.0.14.0.20030606154027.02fb3ec0@mail2.usscreen.com>
Message-ID: <002d01c32cf3$53389cc0$1750b83f@S0029317241>

That really is puzzling.   I've known people with horses who ended up with
some pretty heavy vet bills because their horses ate oleander.   Sturdy
creatures, those goats!

Tom

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mishelle Fresener" <mishelle@usscreen.com>
To: <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Sent: Friday, June 06, 2003 3:41 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oleanders


>   I know that oleanders are toxic but I had a goat that ate them for 15
> years. I never understood how!
>
> Mishelle
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>



From GACarmack@aol.com  Sat Jun  7 06:32:40 2003
From: GACarmack@aol.com (GACarmack@aol.com)
Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 02:32:40 EDT
Subject: [Arid_gardener] oleander
Message-ID: <143.12bb00fc.2c12e108@aol.com>

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a friend's cat ate them and died.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=
=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">a friend's cat ate them and died.</FONT></HTML>

--part1_143.12bb00fc.2c12e108_boundary--

From Jo Setliff" <josetliff2@cox.net  Sat Jun  7 03:55:56 2003
From: Jo Setliff" <josetliff2@cox.net (Jo Setliff)
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2003 20:55:56 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Phoenix pond tour
Message-ID: <005901c32ca8$b39dd8a0$271a0244@ph.cox.net>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0056_01C32C6E.06A7F0C0
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	charset="Windows-1252"
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I'm looking for details on the Phoenix Pond Society pond tour in June
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<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dwindows-1252">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1126" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I'm looking for details on the Phoenix =
Pond Society=20
pond tour in June</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From dianehbacon@yahoo.com  Sun Jun  8 14:44:53 2003
From: dianehbacon@yahoo.com (dianehbacon@yahoo.com)
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2003 07:44:53 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306081444.h58EirQH001702@Ag.arizona.edu>

We have a grape arbor in our backyard which was doing really well in Spring (lots of big leaves and grapes), but recently many of the leaves have started to yellow and drop off.  I don't remember this as being normal, especially at this time of year.

We get irrigation once a month at this point and will soon be getting it twice a month.  We just mulched them this weekend and I'm hoping this will help.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

Diane


From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net  Sun Jun  8 17:32:13 2003
From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin)
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2003 10:32:13 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] potato question
References: <004d01c32d16$aa760ea0$0b178144@oemcomputer>
Message-ID: <000d01c32de3$f043d7f0$2a53530c@olin>

We always start grabbling for new potatoes by digging at the sides
leaving the plant intact for others to get larger.  So I would suggest
you try that to get a look at what's happening.  Doesn't hurt the plant
if you're careful.   Potatoes grown as cash crops in Maricopa  county
are grown primarily for fresh market potatoes.  Doesn't pay to try for
the large baking size - tend to get scabby in our alkaline soil alkaline
irrigation water if left in the ground too long.   -Olin

----- Original Message -----From: "Jonathan Kandell"
<jkandell@sysmatrix.net>
I have irish potatoes growing in Tucson AZ. The plants are flowering and
still strong.  I thought by now the plants would be dying.  How do I
ensure that I dig them up before the potatoes sprout new plants from
them and get ruined (in July?)?


From karon.grundy@sympatico.ca  Sun Jun  8 16:51:21 2003
From: karon.grundy@sympatico.ca (Karon Grundy)
Date: Sun, 08 Jun 2003 11:51:21 -0500
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Boxwood blues
Message-ID: <3EE36989.EAA54ABF@sympatico.ca>

We have a boxwood plant which was about 10 years old when we bought our
home 2 years ago. Last summer it was beautiful but this past winter was
very very cold. It lines the walkway to the front door so is open to the
frost and wind. The leaves are all pale yellow with just a bit of green
near the bottom and only in spots. Should we prune it very low to the
ground or do you have another suggestion? We are in South central
Ontario. Thanks for any info you can provide.


From amgough@cox.net  Sun Jun  8 06:42:40 2003
From: amgough@cox.net (Andrew Gough)
Date: Sat, 07 Jun 2003 23:42:40 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] identity of ground clover in yard [Phoenix]
Message-ID: <5.2.0.9.0.20030607233908.00ab2d80@pop.west.cox.net>

Hi,
    The yard in the house I purchased in Phoenix consists of mainly clover 
(plus bermudagrass and a lot of weeds).  I'm interested in seeding more of 
the clover, so I'd appreciate some help in identifying the common or 
scientific name of it.
    The "head" of the clover consists of 3 heart-shaped leaves.  Multiple 
"heads" can come from one "stalk".  It stays green throughout the 
winter.  Let me know if you need any more information.

Thanks,
Andy
-- 
_____________________________________________________________________
Andy Gough                       |      "Knowledge is power."
Internet: amgough@nospam@cox.net |                -- Francis Bacon
ICBM: 33^18'29" N  111^48'39" W  |
---------------------------------------------------------------------


From popsy97@yahoo.com  Sat Jun  7 19:30:07 2003
From: popsy97@yahoo.com (Judy Braden)
Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 12:30:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oleanders
In-Reply-To: <5.1.0.14.0.20030606154027.02fb3ec0@mail2.usscreen.com>
Message-ID: <20030607193007.89640.qmail@web11004.mail.yahoo.com>

Perhaps it has something to do with the goat having
four stomachs. Maybe the bacteria in the rumen, the
first stomach, neutalizes the poison. I've not heard
of cattle, another ruminate, being poisoned by
oleander, either.

Goats are such tough little guys. I had one that drank
bleach accidentally. He coughed a bit, but that was
all. I think all 4 of those stomachs must be
cast-iron.

--- Mishelle Fresener <mishelle@usscreen.com> wrote:
>   I know that oleanders are toxic but I had a goat
> that ate them for 15 
> years. I never understood how!
> 
> Mishelle
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener


__________________________________
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Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
http://calendar.yahoo.com

From watsontl@mindspring.com  Mon Jun  9 02:44:41 2003
From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson)
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2003 19:44:41 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] identity of ground clover in yard [Phoenix]
References: <5.2.0.9.0.20030607233908.00ab2d80@pop.west.cox.net>
Message-ID: <001001c32e31$14b75420$7209b83f@S0029317241>

If this plant has small, five-petaled yellow flowers, it is not a clover of
any sort at all.   It is creeping oxalis (creeping woodsorrel).   Your
description of the leaves as heart-shaped fits the leaves of this plant
better than it does any clovers I'm familiar with.   Oxalis is a common
weed.

Tom

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Andrew Gough" <amgough@cox.net>
To: <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Sent: Saturday, June 07, 2003 11:42 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] identity of ground clover in yard [Phoenix]


> Hi,
>     The yard in the house I purchased in Phoenix consists of mainly clover
> (plus bermudagrass and a lot of weeds).  I'm interested in seeding more of
> the clover, so I'd appreciate some help in identifying the common or
> scientific name of it.
>     The "head" of the clover consists of 3 heart-shaped leaves.  Multiple
> "heads" can come from one "stalk".  It stays green throughout the
> winter.  Let me know if you need any more information.
>
> Thanks,
> Andy
> -- 
> _____________________________________________________________________
> Andy Gough                       |      "Knowledge is power."
> Internet: amgough@nospam@cox.net |                -- Francis Bacon
> ICBM: 33^18'29" N  111^48'39" W  |
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>



From tom.nancy.mach@cox.net  Sun Jun  8 19:13:51 2003
From: tom.nancy.mach@cox.net (tom.nancy.mach@cox.net)
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2003 12:13:51 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306081913.h58JDpQH021054@Ag.arizona.edu>

Hello there,

Re: Poisonous plants

I'll be working with red and pink oleanders plus purple lantanas, (trimming/moving them around, etc) and I have read that they are poisonous, however, the information didn't specify what poisonous means, ie., when you eat it or touch it or what.  (I have no plans on eating it.)  What precautions should I take when working with these two plants?  Does my clothing need to be washed afterward or can I just wash my hands?  I've had poison ivy and oak before and know that when your clothing comes in touch, it must be washed or the oil will transfer to the touch.

Thanks....Tom Machczynski  


From rodmmcq6@highstream.net  Sun Jun  8 19:24:38 2003
From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net)
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2003 12:24:38 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Boxwood blues
Message-ID: <003501c32df3$9b8085a0$4331db43@ibmbna6040>

In the low desert of southern Arizona where we are located the boxwood shrub
will not survive the heat and alkaline soil. Consequently I do not have any
experience with the boxwood.
The yellow leaves often indicate too much water,if there are green veins,
chlorosis is indicated which can be corrected by applying chelated iron
available at most nurseries.
In the states I would refer you to the county Cooperative Extension in the
county in which you live whose purpose is to help consumers with gardening
and household problems at no charge. You in Canada may have a similiar
service.
If not you might try Wayne County, Michigan, the county where Detroit is
located. The climate there is similiar to yours. Go on line and search for
Wayne County Cooperative Extension, They no doubt have an on line answering
service as we do here.
If all that fails search for ''Master Gardener''

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
From: Karon Grundy <karon.grundy@sympatico.ca>
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Date: Sunday, June 08, 2003 10:54 AM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Boxwood blues


>We have a boxwood plant which was about 10 years old when we bought our
>home 2 years ago. Last summer it was beautiful but this past winter was
>very very cold. It lines the walkway to the front door so is open to the
>frost and wind. The leaves are all pale yellow with just a bit of green
>near the bottom and only in spots. Should we prune it very low to the
>ground or do you have another suggestion? We are in South central
>Ontario. Thanks for any info you can provide.
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>


From desertjule@yahoo.com  Mon Jun  9 17:27:04 2003
From: desertjule@yahoo.com (desertjule@yahoo.com)
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 10:27:04 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306091727.h59HR4QH005006@Ag.arizona.edu>

We've had these Ficus nitida plants around our pool for two years now...all doing well until recently. Three (of 16) have died in unusually short periods of time. In the morning, they have looked great; by the same afternoon, they look like burned up Christmas trees. One appears to have had some infestation at the roots. Two others, completely apart from the first death, have gone in similar manners, but with no root or bug infestation visible. The leaves just wilt very quickly and the tree is dead at this point. The others right next to the dying trees have survived and thrived. No evidence of thrips. These were established, healthy looking plants and then one day, gone. No one seems to be able to figure it out. Any ideas or experience would be appreciated.


From rodmmcq6@highstream.net  Mon Jun  9 22:43:52 2003
From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net)
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 15:43:52 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ficus nitida dying
Message-ID: <005b01c32ed8$af135800$83a9db43@ibmbna6040>

The very rapid colapse of your Ficus nitidas sounds as if the cause may be a
toxic chemical.
Have you watered the trees with pool backwash water ?
Does your pool have a leak ?
Has a weed killer been used in your yard ?
Texas Root Rot will usually cause a rapid decline but I've not seen a case
where death was as fast as you describe, usually over a period of a few
days. With TRR the leaves will usually hang onto the tree. Positive ID can
only be made by a lab exam. If you think that TRR might be the problem, dig
up samples of roots ( finger size by 8 or 10 inches long ), do not wash,
place in a plastic bag,  refrigerate and take the samples to U. of A.,
Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener

-----Original Message-----
From: desertjule@yahoo.com <desertjule@yahoo.com>
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Date: Monday, June 09, 2003 10:48 AM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page


>We've had these Ficus nitida plants around our pool for two years now...all
doing well until recently. Three (of 16) have died in unusually short
periods of time. In the morning, they have looked great; by the same
afternoon, they look like burned up Christmas trees. One appears to have had
some infestation at the roots. Two others, completely apart from the first
death, have gone in similar manners, but with no root or bug infestation
visible. The leaves just wilt very quickly and the tree is dead at this
point. The others right next to the dying trees have survived and thrived.
No evidence of thrips. These were established, healthy looking plants and
then one day, gone. No one seems to be able to figure it out. Any ideas or
experience would be appreciated.
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>


From billstephens4@msn.com  Mon Jun  9 22:32:40 2003
From: billstephens4@msn.com (billstephens4@msn.com)
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 15:32:40 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306092232.h59MWeQH004691@Ag.arizona.edu>

I have a mature apricot tree that seems to be on it's way out. Last year it hardly had any fruit and lots of leafs but this year hardly any leafs but more fruit. (most of the fruit has fallen off) Is there anything I can do to help the tree?

Thanks for your help.
Bill


From Sleepwboss@aol.com  Tue Jun 10 01:29:14 2003
From: Sleepwboss@aol.com (Sleepwboss@aol.com)
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 21:29:14 EDT
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Peppers not Thriving
Message-ID: <103.2fe80608.2c168e6a@aol.com>

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In a message dated 6/2/03 11:51:31 PM Central Daylight Time, 
watsontl@mindspring.com writes:

> In the past several years, I have had no problem growing peppers but this 
> year the plants do not seem to be growing. We planted them about two or three 
> months ago and they aren't but about foot or so high now. They just don't 
> seem to be growing. 

I had the same problem last year with peppers.  I transplanted some from the 
nursery into my square foot garden and they just kind of sat there not 
growing.  After about 3 or 4 weeks, I moved 3 plants to a different location (a new 
area that had not been a vegetable garden before).  These "moved" plants did 
quite well whereas the original location plants never did thrive.  

As I investigated further, I found there were root-knot nematodes causing 
problems in the old bed.  You can tell if you have them if you pull out some 
plants that have been growing awhile and see small white "knots" in the roots 
where it should be smooth.  They are a microscopic roundworm which feeds on plant 
roots.  The root-knot nematode is Meloidogyne species.  Once you have them 
they are very difficult to get ride of.  A plant which is infected with nematodes 
will NOT respond to changes in watering, fertilizing or chemical sprays.  

The Maricopa County Home Horticulture Publication AZ1187, "Root-knot 
Nematode" may be helpful to you.  Adding lots of organic compost to your garden and 
solarization of the area in the heat of the summer for 6-8 weeks may reduce but 
not eradicate root-knot nematodes.   

You may also find that you can grow vegetables in that same soil in the 
winter, but not much after the weather warms up.   That's because nematodes 
proliferate in warm weather.  Also, nematodes can come in from nursery stock, but by 
planting from seed you can avoid adding more root-knot nematodes since they 
are not seed borne. 

Lee Ann Aronson

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<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=3D2 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=
=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0"><B>In a message dated 6/2/03 11:51:31 PM Central Dayli=
ght Time, watsontl@mindspring.com writes:<I><BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=3DCITE style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT=
: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px"></B></I>In the past several yea=
rs, I have had no problem growing peppers but this year the plants do not se=
em to be growing. We planted them about two or three months ago and they are=
n't but about foot or so high now. They just don't seem to be growing. </BLO=
CKQUOTE><BR>
<B><I><BR>
</I>I had the same problem last year with peppers.&nbsp; I transplanted some=
 from the nursery into my square foot garden and they just kind of sat there=
 not growing.&nbsp; After about 3 or 4 weeks, I moved 3 plants to a differen=
t location (a new area that had not been a vegetable garden before).&nbsp; T=
hese "moved" plants did quite well whereas the original location plants neve=
r did thrive.&nbsp; <BR>
<BR>
As I investigated further, I found there were root-knot nematodes causing pr=
oblems in the old bed.&nbsp; You can tell if you have them if you pull out s=
ome plants that have been growing awhile and see small white "knots" in the=20=
roots where it should be smooth.&nbsp; They are a microscopic roundworm whic=
h feeds on plant roots.&nbsp; The root-knot nematode is <I>Meloidogyne</I> s=
pecies.&nbsp; Once you have them they are very difficult to get ride of.&nbs=
p; A plant which is infected with nematodes will NOT respond to changes in w=
atering, fertilizing or chemical sprays.&nbsp; <BR>
<BR>
The Maricopa County Home Horticulture Publication AZ1187, "Root-knot Nematod=
e" may be helpful to you.&nbsp; Adding lots of organic compost to your garde=
n and solarization of the area in the heat of the summer for 6-8 weeks may r=
educe but not eradicate root-knot nematodes.&nbsp;&nbsp; <BR>
<BR>
You may also find that you can grow vegetables in that same soil in the wint=
er, but not much after the weather warms up.&nbsp;&nbsp; That's because nema=
todes proliferate in warm weather.&nbsp; Also, nematodes can come in from nu=
rsery stock, but by planting from seed you can avoid adding more root-knot n=
ematodes since they are not seed borne. <BR>
<BR>
Lee Ann Aronson<BR>
</B></FONT></HTML>
--part1_103.2fe80608.2c168e6a_boundary--

From nfk54401@cox.net  Tue Jun 10 04:01:11 2003
From: nfk54401@cox.net (Norma Kafer)
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 21:01:11 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ficus nitida dying
References: <005b01c32ed8$af135800$83a9db43@ibmbna6040>
Message-ID: <001a01c32f04$ee4638e0$c5fa0344@gpwa.com>

This past Fri. Dr. Olsen attended Terry's diagnostic class.  She is
currently doing research on TRR and would appreciate root samples with soil
as Rod mentioned.  You can drop them off at the office at 4341 E. Broadway
and after the sample is tested, Dr. Olsen will get back to you with the
results.  Dr. Olsen is the plant pathologist from the UofA.

Norma Kafer
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <rodmmcq6@highstream.net>
To: <desertjule@yahoo.com>
Cc: <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Sent: Monday, June 09, 2003 3:43 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ficus nitida dying


> The very rapid colapse of your Ficus nitidas sounds as if the cause may be
a
> toxic chemical.
> Have you watered the trees with pool backwash water ?
> Does your pool have a leak ?
> Has a weed killer been used in your yard ?
> Texas Root Rot will usually cause a rapid decline but I've not seen a case
> where death was as fast as you describe, usually over a period of a few
> days. With TRR the leaves will usually hang onto the tree. Positive ID can
> only be made by a lab exam. If you think that TRR might be the problem,
dig
> up samples of roots ( finger size by 8 or 10 inches long ), do not wash,
> place in a plastic bag,  refrigerate and take the samples to U. of A.,
> Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Rod McKusick
> Master Gardener
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: desertjule@yahoo.com <desertjule@yahoo.com>
> To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
> Date: Monday, June 09, 2003 10:48 AM
> Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>
>
> >We've had these Ficus nitida plants around our pool for two years
now...all
> doing well until recently. Three (of 16) have died in unusually short
> periods of time. In the morning, they have looked great; by the same
> afternoon, they look like burned up Christmas trees. One appears to have
had
> some infestation at the roots. Two others, completely apart from the first
> death, have gone in similar manners, but with no root or bug infestation
> visible. The leaves just wilt very quickly and the tree is dead at this
> point. The others right next to the dying trees have survived and thrived.
> No evidence of thrips. These were established, healthy looking plants and
> then one day, gone. No one seems to be able to figure it out. Any ideas or
> experience would be appreciated.
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >Arid_gardener mailing list
> >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>



From watsontl@mindspring.com  Tue Jun 10 00:35:29 2003
From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson)
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 17:35:29 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
References: <200306081913.h58JDpQH021054@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <000601c32ee8$32914f20$0230b83f@S0029317241>

Oleander is poisonous if injested.   I've heard of people who had skin
sensitive to the sap, but never seen such a thing myself.   When I trim
oleanders I wear gloves and glasses, which is what I do for any pruning job,
for safety's sake.   Oleanders don't exude their toxins the way poison ivy
and poison oak do.   Nor do they leak sap over everything when pruned.
There isn't much risk here.   Hand washing is a sensible precaution
following any garden chore.   As for clothes, I just stuff them into the
laundry.

Tom

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <tom.nancy.mach@cox.net>
To: <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Sent: Sunday, June 08, 2003 12:13 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page


> Hello there,
>
> Re: Poisonous plants
>
> I'll be working with red and pink oleanders plus purple lantanas,
(trimming/moving them around, etc) and I have read that they are poisonous,
however, the information didn't specify what poisonous means, ie., when you
eat it or touch it or what.  (I have no plans on eating it.)  What
precautions should I take when working with these two plants?  Does my
clothing need to be washed afterward or can I just wash my hands?  I've had
poison ivy and oak before and know that when your clothing comes in touch,
it must be washed or the oil will transfer to the touch.
>
> Thanks....Tom Machczynski
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>



From Geoffrey.Brady@apollogrp.edu  Tue Jun 10 14:37:24 2003
From: Geoffrey.Brady@apollogrp.edu (Geoff Brady)
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 07:37:24 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Spider identification
Message-ID: <670193290CCBD511BA6600B0D079B7FD022B7895@usvphxex1.apollogrp.edu>

This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

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Hello all,

Does the Maricopa extension on Broadway have someone that can identify some
spiders for me?

Geoff Brady
Network Administrator
University of Phoenix ITECH Programs
4615 E Elwood St 4th Floor 
Phoenix, AZ 85040
(480) 966-5394


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<META HTTP-EQUIV="Content-Type" CONTENT="text/html; charset=US-ASCII">
<META NAME="Generator" CONTENT="MS Exchange Server version 5.5.2656.13">
<TITLE>Spider identification</TITLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY>

<P><FONT SIZE=2 FACE="Arial">Hello all,</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=2 FACE="Arial">Does the Maricopa extension on Broadway have someone that can identify some spiders for me?</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=2 FACE="Arial">Geoff Brady</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2 FACE="Arial">Network Administrator</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2 FACE="Arial">University of Phoenix ITECH Programs</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2 FACE="Arial">4615 E Elwood St 4th Floor </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2 FACE="Arial">Phoenix, AZ 85040</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2 FACE="Arial">(480) 966-5394</FONT>
</P>

</BODY>
</HTML>
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From gmbliss@juno.com  Tue Jun 10 14:30:04 2003
From: gmbliss@juno.com (gmbliss@juno.com)
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 07:30:04 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306101430.h5AEU4QH009557@Ag.arizona.edu>

One of my Goldwater (Elderica?)pine trees needles are seriously turning brown, yet I've new growth at the ends of the branches.  The other pines don't seem to have the problem in such extreme.  What can/should I do?  I'm concerned I'll end up with a naked tree except for green needles on the ends of the branches.  Also, is there any way to control the trees horizontal growth?  I think it has reached its mature height but now it is spreading horizontally.  I didn't realize they would get so big (I've got four in a space that is way to small for them.

Thanks for your help.


From nfk54401@cox.net  Tue Jun 10 15:16:50 2003
From: nfk54401@cox.net (Norma Kafer)
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 08:16:50 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Spider identification
References: <670193290CCBD511BA6600B0D079B7FD022B7895@usvphxex1.apollogrp.edu>
Message-ID: <001901c32f63$51561690$c5fa0344@gpwa.com>

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Spider identificationYes, you will need to bring in your sample and fill =
out a form.  If the diagnostic clinic cannot ID your spider on Fri. =
morning, we will send it to Tucson for a positive ID.  The diagnostic =
clinic meets Fri. morning at 7:30 if you want to attend.  Otherwise drop =
off your sample at 4341 E. Broadway and somebody will call you with the =
results.

Norma Kafer
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Geoff Brady=20
  To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20
  Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 7:37 AM
  Subject: [Arid_gardener] Spider identification


  Hello all,=20

  Does the Maricopa extension on Broadway have someone that can identify =
some spiders for me?=20

  Geoff Brady=20
  Network Administrator=20
  University of Phoenix ITECH Programs=20
  4615 E Elwood St 4th Floor=20
  Phoenix, AZ 85040=20
  (480) 966-5394=20

------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C32F28.A4E1BAC0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD><TITLE>Spider identification</TITLE>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1170" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Yes, you will need to bring in your =
sample and fill=20
out a form.&nbsp; If the diagnostic clinic cannot ID your spider on Fri. =

morning, we will send it to Tucson for a positive ID.&nbsp; The =
diagnostic=20
clinic meets Fri. morning at 7:30 if you want to attend.&nbsp; Otherwise =
drop=20
off your sample at 4341 E. Broadway and somebody will call you with the=20
results.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Norma Kafer</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3DGeoffrey.Brady@apollogrp.edu=20
  href=3D"mailto:Geoffrey.Brady@apollogrp.edu">Geoff Brady</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Darid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20
  =
href=3D"mailto:arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu">arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=
</A>=20
  </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, June 10, 2003 =
7:37=20
AM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [Arid_gardener] Spider =

  identification</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <P><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hello all,</FONT> </P>
  <P><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Does the Maricopa extension on Broadway =
have=20
  someone that can identify some spiders for me?</FONT> </P>
  <P><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Geoff Brady</FONT> <BR><FONT =
face=3DArial=20
  size=3D2>Network Administrator</FONT> <BR><FONT face=3DArial =
size=3D2>University of=20
  Phoenix ITECH Programs</FONT> <BR><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>4615 E =
Elwood St 4th=20
  Floor </FONT><BR><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Phoenix, AZ 85040</FONT> =
<BR><FONT=20
  face=3DArial size=3D2>(480) 966-5394</FONT> =
</P></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C32F28.A4E1BAC0--



From sandra.m.koster@att.net  Tue Jun 10 17:21:36 2003
From: sandra.m.koster@att.net (sandra.m.koster@att.net)
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 10:21:36 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306101721.h5AHLaQH011252@Ag.arizona.edu>

Two things:

When do I fertilize my lemon tree?

I planted the pit of a Haas avocado from the grocery store and it is actually turned into a tree. Will it bear fruit? How do I care for this tree?

Thanks,
Sandy


From John.Gravina@Azbar.org  Tue Jun 10 20:36:24 2003
From: John.Gravina@Azbar.org (John Gravina)
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 13:36:24 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pests
Message-ID: <BAY4-F25Wbp0Zwf92Ij0003e13b@hotmail.com>

I have had a terrible time w/ rats, birds, something eating my vegetable 
seedlings.  I have been trapping them; but am unable to keep up.  Any 
suggestions would be appreciated.


John A Gravina

_________________________________________________________________
STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE*  
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail


From drew_linda@hotmail.com  Tue Jun 10 21:50:40 2003
From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew)
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 21:50:40 +0000
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pests -exclude with Dimeglio System
Message-ID: <Law14-F13vKWrbDESct0003c9da@hotmail.com>

The most effective treatment is exclusion. Check this reference to
learn about the "DiMeglio System":

    http://www.garden.org/articles/scripts/articles.taf?id=163

Linda Drew
Master Gardener

>From: "John Gravina" <johngravina@msn.com>
>Reply-To: John.Gravina@Azbar.org
>To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
>Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pests
>Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 13:36:24 -0700
>
>I have had a terrible time w/ rats, birds, something eating my vegetable 
>seedlings.  I have been trapping them; but am unable to keep up.  Any 
>suggestions would be appreciated.
>
>
>John A Gravina
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE*  
>http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener

_________________________________________________________________
The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE*  
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail


From ljvaughan1@netzero.com  Tue Jun 10 21:54:50 2003
From: ljvaughan1@netzero.com (ljvaughan1@netzero.com)
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 14:54:50 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306102154.h5ALsoQH004780@Ag.arizona.edu>

i'd like to identify this spider: found in house (x's 2) large abdomen, red hour glass on belly, large red stripe down center of back with yellow/black stripes with red elongated spot in middle  conected and running horizontally down body.  slightly smaller then a black widow. legs appear to be stripped also. it's beautiful but we'd like to know it's not poisonous.  thanks


From kyoung@Ag.arizona.edu  Wed Jun 11 14:46:37 2003
From: kyoung@Ag.arizona.edu (Kelly Young)
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 07:46:37 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Employment Opportunity
Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20030611074549.00c73960@cals.arizona.edu>

--=====================_259262==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed


HELP WANTED at Pointe South Mountain Resort :  Assistant Flower 
Gardener.  a Monday thru Friday , 6am to 2 pm shift, taking care of the 
color beds throughout the resort.    This is hands-on, back-bending, 
knee-dirty-ing labor.  little actual 'desert landscaping,' but lots of 
flower garden maintence and installation.  Weed, pinch, deadhead, replace 
plants to keep gardens tidy, if not perfect.  job requirements include 
being able to work in all weather for an 8 hour a day, 5 day a week shift, 
lift about 40 pounds, pull hoses, lug watering cans, follow directions, 
work independently, be friendly and helpful with all guests and 
co-workers.   literacy skills are good, Latin is a little 
helpful.  gardening knowledge is good, an ability to ask questions, 
better.  applications can be made at the human resource office off Beverly 
and So. Pointe Parkway. Resort is at 7777 so. Pointe parkway. baseline and 
48th St. is the major intersection.  please use Pam Perry as a reference 
when filling out an application.  pay is  around eight bucks,  benefits are 
available and pretty good.  work is endless. but it is nice when the beds 
come together and work, and everyone on property is generous with praise 
and appreciation. the guests love it.

Kelly Young
Program Coordinator, Urban Horticulture
The University of Arizona
Maricopa County Cooperative Extension
4341 E. Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ  85040-8807
Phone (602) 470-8086 ext. 311
Fax (602) 470-8092
kyoung@ag.arizona.edu

The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be 
taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona.

--=====================_259262==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html>

<dl><font face=3D"Book Antiqua, Bookman">
<dd>HELP WANTED at Pointe South Mountain Resort :&nbsp; Assistant Flower
Gardener.&nbsp; a Monday thru Friday , 6am to 2 pm shift, taking care of
the color beds throughout the resort.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; This is hands-on,
back-bending, knee-dirty-ing labor.&nbsp; little actual 'desert
landscaping,' but lots of flower garden maintence and installation.&nbsp;
Weed, pinch, deadhead, replace plants to keep gardens tidy, if not
perfect.&nbsp; job requirements include being able to work in all weather
for an 8 hour a day, 5 day a week shift, lift about 40 pounds, pull
hoses, lug watering cans, follow directions, work independently, be
friendly and helpful with all guests and co-workers.&nbsp;&nbsp; literacy
skills are good, Latin is a little helpful.&nbsp; gardening knowledge is
good, an ability to ask questions, better.&nbsp; applications can be made
at the human resource office off Beverly and So. Pointe Parkway. Resort
is at 7777 so. Pointe parkway. baseline and 48th St. is the major
intersection.&nbsp; please use Pam Perry as a reference when filling out
an application.&nbsp; pay is&nbsp; around eight bucks,&nbsp; benefits are
available and pretty good.&nbsp; work is endless. but it is nice when the
beds come together and work, and everyone on property is generous with
praise and appreciation. the guests love it.  </font>
</dl><br>
<div>Kelly Young</div>
<div>Program Coordinator, Urban Horticulture</div>
<div>The University of Arizona </div>
<div>Maricopa County Cooperative Extension</div>
<div>4341 E. Broadway Rd.</div>
<div>Phoenix, AZ&nbsp; 85040-8807</div>
<div>Phone (602) 470-8086 ext. 311</div>
<div>Fax (602) 470-8092</div>
<div>kyoung@ag.arizona.edu</div>
<br>
<div>The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should
not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of
Arizona.</div>
</html>

--=====================_259262==_.ALT--


From kbaxa@juno.com  Wed Jun 11 15:27:49 2003
From: kbaxa@juno.com (Kathy J Baxa)
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 08:27:49 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] dodder
Message-ID: <20030611.082750.120.0.kbaxa@juno.com>

I live in Bisbee and dodder has developed on a couple of small plants I
just started from seed this winter.  I pulled 2 of the plants (oxeye
daisys) and pulled the dodder off the 3rd, which was only just starting
on it, leaving the plant in the bed but with a close eye on it.  Dodder
is new to me.  It's such a curiosity.  My question is, how common is this
parasite in these parts?  Also, where would I find Bisbee's latest annual
rainfall statistics?  (I'm writing a book about Bisbee gardening).
Thanks,
Kathy Baxa
Box 946
Bisbee, AZ  85603

From gwright@Ag.arizona.edu  Wed Jun 11 15:20:20 2003
From: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu (Glenn C. Wright)
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 08:20:20 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: help
Message-ID: <5.1.1.6.2.20030611082014.02886df0@ag.arizona.edu>

--=====================_75141687==.ALT
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>From: Digjng@aol.com
>Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 00:04:11 EDT
>Subject: help
>To: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu
>X-Mailer: 8.0 for Windows sub 6011
>
>I LIVE IN CHANDLER AZ. I MOVED HERE FROM WISCONSIN 2 YEARS A GO.
>I HAVE A LEMON TREE A GRAPFRUIT TREE AND A ORANGE TREE.
>     BEING FROM WIS, I OVER WATERED THEM LAST YEAR. I WAS WATERING THEM 3 
> TIMES A WEEK
>.    THIS YEAR I HAVE BEEN WATERING THEM EVERY 2 WEEKS DURING THE WINTER 
>AND I JUST STARTED EVERY WATERING THEM WEEKLY 3 WEEKS AGO WHEN IT GOT HOT 
>!        I USE CITRUS FERTALZER ON THEM EVERY 3 MONTHS.
>    TWO WEEKS AGO SMALL FRUIT WAS FALLING OFF OF THEM. AND THIS WEEK THE 
> LEAVES ARE TURNING YELLOW AND BROWN AND DYING!
>HELP ME SAVE THESE TREES WHAT DO I DO???????
>                                             JIM G

Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D.
Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist
University of Arizona - Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center
2186 W. County 15th Street
Somerton, AZ 85350
Phone: 928-726-0458
FAX: 928-726-1363
e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu
--=====================_75141687==.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
<font size=3><br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>From: Digjng@aol.com<br>
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 00:04:11 EDT<br>
Subject: help<br>
To: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu<br>
X-Mailer: 8.0 for Windows sub 6011<br><br>
</font><font face="Arial, Helvetica" size=2>I LIVE IN CHANDLER AZ. I
MOVED HERE FROM WISCONSIN 2 YEARS A GO.<br>
I HAVE A LEMON TREE A GRAPFRUIT TREE AND A ORANGE TREE.&nbsp; <br>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; BEING FROM WIS, I OVER WATERED THEM LAST YEAR. I WAS
WATERING THEM 3 TIMES A WEEK <br>
.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; THIS YEAR I HAVE BEEN WATERING THEM EVERY 2 WEEKS
DURING THE WINTER AND I JUST STARTED EVERY WATERING THEM WEEKLY 3 WEEKS
AGO WHEN IT GOT HOT !&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I USE
CITRUS FERTALZER ON THEM EVERY 3 MONTHS.<br>
&nbsp;&nbsp; TWO WEEKS AGO SMALL FRUIT WAS FALLING OFF OF THEM. AND THIS
WEEK THE LEAVES ARE TURNING YELLOW AND BROWN AND DYING!<br>
HELP ME SAVE THESE TREES WHAT DO I DO???????<br>
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
JIM G</blockquote>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D.<br>
Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist<br>
University of Arizona - Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center<br>
2186 W. County 15th Street<br>
Somerton, AZ 85350<br>
Phone: 928-726-0458<br>
FAX: 928-726-1363<br>
e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu</font></html>

--=====================_75141687==.ALT--



From fuey@robsoncom.net  Wed Jun 11 16:30:03 2003
From: fuey@robsoncom.net (fuey@robsoncom.net)
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 09:30:03 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306111630.h5BGU3QH006821@Ag.arizona.edu>

My grapefruit tree (5 or 6 years old) had more young fruit than ever before.  Now recently most of the fruit has fallen, there are many yellowing leaves, along with black spots on some and curled up leaves with "webs" or some kind of insect cocoons. .. .  some branches seem to be ok, and some of the fruit also.

Is there something I can do to stop this infestation, and maybe save some of the fruit?  

I am watering deeply, once a week, and have fertilized according to schedule.  The last fertilization was on May 19, and I used 1-1/2 lbs. of 14% nitrogen citrus mix.

Thanks for your help


From yourdad@worldnet.att.net  Wed Jun 11 17:11:31 2003
From: yourdad@worldnet.att.net (olin)
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 10:11:31 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] dodder
References: <20030611.082750.120.0.kbaxa@juno.com>
Message-ID: <001001c3303c$a11fe960$7c53530c@olin>

Can't say how common dodder is in Bisbee but is fairly widespread in AZ
in hayfields below 5,000 feet elevation and is classified as a "noxious
weed" because it parasitizes field crops like alfalfa and clover.  It is
sometimes reported in residential gardens in the Phoenix area but I have
never seen it.  There is a response to a question about dodder a few
years back at
http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/arid_gardener/1200.html

For monthly average rainfall, see:
http://www.worldclimate.com/cgi-bin/data.pl?ref=N31W109+2200+020775C
For the latest info, you might try the Cochise County Cooperative
Extension at
http://ag.arizona.edu/cochise/ or at the "Ask A Question" site at
http://cals.arizona.edu/cochise/mg/question.htm

Olin


----- Original Message ----- From: "Kathy J Baxa" <kbaxa@juno.com>
> I live in Bisbee and dodder has developed on a couple of small plants
I
> just started from seed this winter.  I pulled 2 of the plants (oxeye
> daisys) and pulled the dodder off the 3rd, which was only just
starting
> on it, leaving the plant in the bed but with a close eye on it.
Dodder
> is new to me.  It's such a curiosity.  My question is, how common is
this
> parasite in these parts?  Also, where would I find Bisbee's latest
annual
> rainfall statistics?  (I'm writing a book about Bisbee gardening).
> Thanks,
> Kathy Baxa
> Box 946
> Bisbee, AZ  85603
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener


From EileNan6@aol.com  Wed Jun 11 23:57:57 2003
From: EileNan6@aol.com (by way of Lucy Bradley <BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu>)
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 16:57:57 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] RE:  Gardenias
Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20030611165721.032b8458@ag.arizona.edu>

--=====================_32211337==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

Hi

I'm trying to locate some information on growing Gardenias in Phoenix.  I'm 
not sure you are the person to help but maybe you could direct me to the 
correct person

Thanks for your help
EileNan6@aol.com
--=====================_32211337==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
<font size=2>Hi<br><br>
I'm trying to locate some information on growing Gardenias in
Phoenix.&nbsp; I'm not sure you are the person to help but maybe you
could direct me to the correct person<br><br>
Thanks for your help</font><font face="arial"> <br>
EileNan6@aol.com</font></html>

--=====================_32211337==_.ALT--


From watsontl@mindspring.com  Wed Jun 11 13:29:19 2003
From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson)
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 06:29:19 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
References: <200306102154.h5ALsoQH004780@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <000001c33076$662a7ac0$5b31b83f@S0029317241>

Sounds like an immature black widow, on it's way to adult markings.

Tom

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <ljvaughan1@netzero.com>
To: <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 2:54 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page


> i'd like to identify this spider: found in house (x's 2) large abdomen,
red hour glass on belly, large red stripe down center of back with
yellow/black stripes with red elongated spot in middle  conected and running
horizontally down body.  slightly smaller then a black widow. legs appear to
be stripped also. it's beautiful but we'd like to know it's not poisonous.
thanks
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>



From sbarvian@prodigy.net  Thu Jun 12 00:06:42 2003
From: sbarvian@prodigy.net (Scott Barvian)
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 17:06:42 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] TRR
References: <200306100619.h5A6JUQH005903@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <015201c33076$823e48e0$9a084bab@lbmelman>

> From: "Norma Kafer" <nfk54401@cox.net>
> Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Ficus nitida dying
> Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 21:01:11 -0700
> 
> This past Fri. Dr. Olsen attended Terry's diagnostic class.  She is
> currently doing research on TRR and would appreciate root samples with soil
> as Rod mentioned.  You can drop them off at the office at 4341 E. Broadway
> and after the sample is tested, Dr. Olsen will get back to you with the
> results.  Dr. Olsen is the plant pathologist from the UofA.
> 
> Norma Kafer


I lost a tree a couple of years ago.  The tree died in just a few days,
and the leaves did not drop - both signs of possible TRR.  I submitted
some root samples but no TRR was found.

This causes me to wonder - what is the current thinking about how
common TRR is in the Valley?   What percentage of the samples they
examine actually have it?  Just curious.

From tidyspidey@netscape.net  Thu Jun 12 04:10:33 2003
From: tidyspidey@netscape.net (tidyspidey@netscape.net)
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 21:10:33 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306120410.h5C4AXQH015001@Ag.arizona.edu>

My neighbors apparently have an ant colony in
their yard and every night these ants climb
over our cement block fence (dedicated little
buggers) and into my yard.  Their main goal
seems to be climbing my trees.  The tree
closest to the wall is an Acacia Mulga - which
I only planted last year and have only corrected
poor nursery pruning.  I have not pruned the tree
beyond that.  Then some other brave energetic
ants cross my whole yard (about 40 feet) to get
to my Acacia Smallii.  This plant does have some 
fresh pruning cuts.  My question is, why are 
these ants doing this and can they hurt the tree?

I was actually pruning some Sweet Acacia trees
on some property owned by my company and the angle
on two limbs was so bad I could not do a proper
cut.  I would guess there was no more than a 30 degree
angle, and I am guessing more like 20 degrees between
the branch and the trunk (both branches had
grown as tall as the tree).  When I cut the one on 
top I only messed up slightly and left a 
gap between the bark and tissue of the tree.  On
the bottom cut however I tore off a section of bark
about 3 inches long and 1/2 inch wide.  I did not
damage the flesh part of the tree, only the bark.
So almost immediately after I did these cuts ants
invaded.  Maybe 50 ants came out of nowhere and
were climbing all over the new cuts.  So again,
will these ants hurt the tree?


From klandell@hotmail.com  Thu Jun 12 18:20:55 2003
From: klandell@hotmail.com (klandell@hotmail.com)
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 11:20:55 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306121820.h5CIKtIZ017553@Ag.arizona.edu>

We put in a "Mid-iron"  sod lawn at least 4 weeks ago. The landscaper set our sprinkler to come on 3 times a day. The lawn is usually soggy. How long should we keep this watering schedule, and when we readjust it, what should we set it to? 


From ydsavio@ucdavis.edu  Thu Jun 12 18:11:17 2003
From: ydsavio@ucdavis.edu (Yvonne Savio)
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 11:11:17 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] MG:  Office move delayed
Message-ID: <5.0.2.1.2.20030612105706.01e8dd70@mailbox.ucdavis.edu>

>Hi, All--
>
>The current anticipated date for our office move is the week of June 
>30-July 3.  (July 4 is a holiday.)
>
>I will be out of the office (conference, vacation, office move, holiday) 
>from June 16-July 4.
>
>If you need assistance, please contact Administrative Assistant Gloria 
>Mitchell at 323-838-4532 or email gjmitche@ucdavis.edu.  Phone messages 
>will be forwarded for 2 months.
>
>We expect to be "back in business" on Monday, July 7.
>
>Our new address:  4800 E. Cesar Chavez Blvd., Los Angeles 90022.
>Our building is located on Cesar Chavez Blvd. at the Corner of Mednick, 
>about half way between the 710 freeway and Atlantic Blvd, north of the 60 
>freeway. The entrance to the parking lot is on Mednick.
>
>Our new fax number is 323-881-0067.
>
>Our new individual phone numbers:
>
>Yvonne Savio
>Program Manager, Master Gardener Coordinator
>323-260-3407
>ydsavio@ucdavis.edu
>
>Gloria Mitchell
>Administrative Assistant
>323-260-3348
>gjmitche@ucdavis.edu
>
>Pete Beaudoin
>Landscape Coordinator
>323-260-3349
>pjbeaudoin@ucdavis.edu
>
>Cynthia Flock
>Fresh From the Garden Program Assistant
>323-260-3347
>ccflock@ucdavis.edu
>
>Sue Giordano
>Food and Nutrition Education Coordinator
>323-260-3201
>sugiordano@ucdavis.edu
>
>Master Gardener Helpline
>323-260-3238
>mglosangeleshelpline@ucdavis.edu
>
>Ciao for now.
>
>Yvonne Savio
>Common Ground Garden Program Manager
>University of California Cooperative Extension in Los Angeles County
>
>Volunteers of the Common Ground Garden Program help low-income and 
>limited-resource county residents to grow and eat more nutritious 
>vegetables and fruits.  Programs include Master Gardeners (seasonal 
>gardening presentations), Fresh From The Garden (simple nutrition and food 
>safety presentations), Gardening Angels (school garden consultants), and 
>Community Gardens.

Ciao for now.

Yvonne Savio
Common Ground Garden Program Manager
University of California Cooperative Extension in Los Angeles County
2 Coral Circle, Monterey Park, CA 91755
Phone:	323-838-4532
Fax:		323-838-7408
Email:		ydsavio@ucdavis.edu
Website:	celosangeles.ucdavis.edu (click on "Common Ground Garden Program")

Master Gardener Email Gardening Helpline:  mastergardenqs@hotmail.com
Master Gardener Phone Gardening Helpline:  323-838-4541

Volunteers of the Common Ground Garden Program help low-income and 
limited-resource county residents to grow and eat more nutritious 
vegetables and fruits.  Programs include Master Gardeners (seasonal 
gardening presentations), Fresh From The Garden (simple nutrition, recipe 
and food safety presentations), Gardening Angels (school garden 
consultants), and Community Gardens.


From crookedskyfarms@yahoo.com  Thu Jun 12 19:39:57 2003
From: crookedskyfarms@yahoo.com (Frank Martin)
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 12:39:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Last Hoorah Corn Festival
Message-ID: <20030612193957.39051.qmail@web14608.mail.yahoo.com>

Our Last Hoorah Corn Festival
June 14, 2003
8:00 AM - 4:00 PM
Crooked Sky Farms (used to be Min's Farm)
5658 W. Northern Ave  (Northern & 56th Ave)
Glendale, AZ 85301

Come help us say Goodbye to the Farm!  We are closing
the store and leaving the farm.  Come and Enjoy
Roasted
Corn, Roasted Chiles, Melons,  Gourd painting, and
Cooking Demonstrations by Chef Stephanie Green of
Nutrition Studio. Kids will enjoy the Moon Bounce,
farm games and activities and a hayride.  Everyone
will love the Live Music from 1:00—4:00 PM by group
“Canyon Walls” and much more.

=====
Crooked Sky Farms Organic Produce
Frank Martin
5658 W. Northern
Glendale, AZ 85301

=====
Crooked Sky Farms Organic Produce
Frank Martin
5658 W. Northern
Glendale, AZ 85301

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
http://calendar.yahoo.com

From crookedskyfarms@yahoo.com  Wed Jun 11 21:54:09 2003
From: crookedskyfarms@yahoo.com (Frank Martin)
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 14:54:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Corn Festival
Message-ID: <20030611215409.18360.qmail@web14607.mail.yahoo.com>

Our Last Hoorah Corn Festival
June 14, 2003
8:00 AM - 4:00 PM
Crooked Sky Farms (used to be Min's Farm)
5658 W. Northern Ave  (Northern & 56th Ave)
Glendale, AZ 85301

Come help us say Goodbye to the Farm!  We are closing
the 
store and leaving the farm.  Come and Enjoy Roasted
Corn, Roasted Chiles, Melons,  Gourd painting, and
Cooking Demonstrations by Chef Stephanie Green of
Nutrition Studio. Kids will enjoy the Moon Bounce,
farm games and activities and a hayride.  Everyone
will love the Live Music from 1:00—4:00 PM by group
“Canyon Walls” and much more.

=====
Crooked Sky Farms Organic Produce
Frank Martin
5658 W. Northern
Glendale, AZ 85301

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
http://calendar.yahoo.com

From ljvaughan1@netzero.net  Wed Jun 11 20:51:43 2003
From: ljvaughan1@netzero.net (ljvaughan1)
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 13:51:43 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject)
Message-ID: <003801c3305b$464ca090$634c3542@yourpjfwswxkvr>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0035_01C33020.97A5AD50
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

THANKS SO MUCH FOR THE INFO.  WE WILL DEFINITELY RESPECT THE BITE AND =
FIND A NICE NEW HOME FOR IT AWAY FROM THE HOUSE!!!!!
------=_NextPart_000_0035_01C33020.97A5AD50
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1106" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>THANKS SO MUCH FOR THE INFO.&nbsp; WE =
WILL=20
DEFINITELY RESPECT THE BITE AND FIND A NICE NEW HOME FOR IT AWAY FROM =
THE=20
HOUSE!!!!!</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0035_01C33020.97A5AD50--


From nfk54401@cox.net  Wed Jun 11 20:07:08 2003
From: nfk54401@cox.net (Norma Kafer)
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 13:07:08 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
References: <200306102154.h5ALsoQH004780@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <002601c33055$098c02f0$c5fa0344@gpwa.com>

What you have is an immature black widow.  The different markings are
typical of juveniles.  Elegant, aren't they?  The bites must be taken
seriously, same as an adult black widow.

Norma Kafer
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <ljvaughan1@netzero.com>
To: <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 2:54 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page


> i'd like to identify this spider: found in house (x's 2) large abdomen,
red hour glass on belly, large red stripe down center of back with
yellow/black stripes with red elongated spot in middle  conected and running
horizontally down body.  slightly smaller then a black widow. legs appear to
be stripped also. it's beautiful but we'd like to know it's not poisonous.
thanks
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>



From beth.difelice@asu.edu  Wed Jun 11 19:46:29 2003
From: beth.difelice@asu.edu (beth.difelice@asu.edu)
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 12:46:29 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306111946.h5BJkTQH025222@Ag.arizona.edu>

I have a purple orchid tree in my front yard in a house I bought last December. The tree looked nice then and bloomed beautifully this spring. Now, almost all the leaves have fallen off. I have no idea how old the tree is. Any advice?


From rodmmcq6@highstream.net  Thu Jun 12 23:06:09 2003
From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net)
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 16:06:09 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lawn Watering
Message-ID: <008f01c33137$3742e8c0$d02c0a3f@ibmbna6040>

It is time to cut back on the number of irrigations per day to one time but
increase the amount of water applied each time. In about two weeks try
watering every other day again increase the amount.
On the weather page of our daily newspaper is a listing of how much to water
your grass if watered three days ago. Todays listing showed 0.71 inches or
approximately 3/4 inch.
You can measure how much water you are applying by putting out several tuna
fish type cans before your sprinklers run and average the results.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
-----Original Message-----
From: klandell@hotmail.com <klandell@hotmail.com>
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Date: Thursday, June 12, 2003 11:52 AM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page


>We put in a "Mid-iron"  sod lawn at least 4 weeks ago. The landscaper set
our sprinkler to come on 3 times a day. The lawn is usually soggy. How long
should we keep this watering schedule, and when we readjust it, what should
we set it to?
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>


From rodmmcq6@highstream.net  Thu Jun 12 22:51:43 2003
From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net)
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 15:51:43 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Orchid tree loosing leaves.
Message-ID: <008a01c33135$488e0300$d02c0a3f@ibmbna6040>

Beth,
The orchid tree is not well adapted to our alkaline soil, salty water and
hot drying winds. It will usually look great in the spring and then when hot
weather gets here not look so great with leaf drop and browning leaves.
Proper watering will do a lot to help the orchid tree to get through the hot
weather.
For the past three weeks the temperature has been way above normal, the
relative humidity extremely low and with lots of drying winds all of which
translates into high water use and  stress for our trees and plants.
Most of out trees except the desert adapted ones should be deep watered once
a week during summer.  This means running a drip system a minimum of six
hours to get water to a depth of three  feet.
A free booklet titled LANDSCAPE WATERING BY THE NUMBERS is available from
most nurseries and the Water Conservation Dept. of your city.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener

-----Original Message-----
From: beth.difelice@asu.edu <beth.difelice@asu.edu>
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Date: Thursday, June 12, 2003 2:25 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page


>I have a purple orchid tree in my front yard in a house I bought last
December. The tree looked nice then and bloomed beautifully this spring.
Now, almost all the leaves have fallen off. I have no idea how old the tree
is. Any advice?
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>


From msannieredrose@aol.com  Fri Jun 13 05:13:29 2003
From: msannieredrose@aol.com (msannieredrose@aol.com)
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 22:13:29 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306130513.h5D5DTt4001323@Ag.arizona.edu>

 my sago is turning yellow what do i do for that.


From GardenGuy@gardenerscorner.com  Fri Jun 13 01:26:00 2003
From: GardenGuy@gardenerscorner.com (GardenerGuy@gardenerscorner.com)
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 18:26:00 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Orchid tree loosing leaves.
References: <008a01c33135$488e0300$d02c0a3f@ibmbna6040>
Message-ID: <3EE92828.9030208@gardenerscorner.com>

--------------060707070600020502080107
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Rod hit it right on the nail head.  Your tree is most likely not getting 
enough water.  I have a beautiful Purple Orchid Tree in my front yard, 
and nearly lost it. Over the past three years it has produced less and 
less leaves and blooms.  I almost lost it.  About 3 months ago I started 
deep watering it.  Turning on the hose very, very slow, just barely a 
dribble coming out, and letting it run over night in areas around the 
outside canopy and at the center of the tree.  I'm already noticing a 
tremendous difference.  Leaves are coming out everywhere, and I think 
the tree is going to make it.  It would have been terrible to loose this 
beautiful tree.  It appears they just need more water than some of our 
other trees...as even my Mulberry does fine on less water than I am 
giving the Purple Orchid tree.  I am deep watering it once per week, 
during the night, when their is less water loss to evaporation, and it 
can soak in really well.

Chat with you later...
Alan
-----
Chandler, Arizona        Sunset Zone: 13
http://www.GardenersCorner.com
-----
Alan Zelhart      
GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com
Gardens Co-listowner
http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html
-----
 Oxymoron - Military Intelligence


rodmmcq6@highstream.net wrote:

>Beth,
>The orchid tree is not well adapted to our alkaline soil, salty water and
>hot drying winds. It will usually look great in the spring and then when hot
>weather gets here not look so great with leaf drop and browning leaves.
>Proper watering will do a lot to help the orchid tree to get through the hot
>weather.
>For the past three weeks the temperature has been way above normal, the
>relative humidity extremely low and with lots of drying winds all of which
>translates into high water use and  stress for our trees and plants.
>Most of out trees except the desert adapted ones should be deep watered once
>a week during summer.  This means running a drip system a minimum of six
>hours to get water to a depth of three  feet.
>A free booklet titled LANDSCAPE WATERING BY THE NUMBERS is available from
>most nurseries and the Water Conservation Dept. of your city.
>
>Good luck.
>
>Rod McKusick
>Master Gardener
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: beth.difelice@asu.edu <beth.difelice@asu.edu>
>To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
>Date: Thursday, June 12, 2003 2:25 PM
>Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>
>
>  
>
>>I have a purple orchid tree in my front yard in a house I bought last
>>    
>>
>December. The tree looked nice then and bloomed beautifully this spring.
>Now, almost all the leaves have fallen off. I have no idea how old the tree
>is. Any advice?
>  
>
>>_______________________________________________
>>Arid_gardener mailing list
>>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>>
>>    
>>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>
>
>
>  
>

-- 
Chat with you later...
Alan
-----
Chandler, Arizona        Sunset Zone: 13
http://www.GardenersCorner.com
-----
Alan Zelhart       
GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com
Gardens Co-listowner
http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html
-----
 THINK --it gives you something to do while the computer is down.




--------------060707070600020502080107
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN">
<html>
<head>
  <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=ISO-8859-1">
  <title></title>
</head>
<body>
Rod hit it right on the nail head. &nbsp;Your tree is most likely not getting enough
water. &nbsp;I have a beautiful Purple Orchid Tree in my front yard, and nearly
lost it. Over the past three years it has produced less and less leaves and
blooms. &nbsp;I almost lost it. &nbsp;About 3 months ago I started deep watering it.
&nbsp;Turning on the hose very, very slow, just barely a dribble coming out, and
letting it run over night in areas around the outside canopy and at the center
of the tree. &nbsp;I'm already noticing a tremendous difference. &nbsp;Leaves are coming
out everywhere, and I think the tree is going to make it. &nbsp;It would have
been terrible to loose this beautiful tree. &nbsp;It appears they just need more
water than some of our other trees...as even my Mulberry does fine on less
water than I am giving the Purple Orchid tree. &nbsp;I am deep watering it once
per week, during the night, when their is less water loss to evaporation, 
and it can soak in really well.<br>
 <br>
 Chat with you later...<br>
 Alan<br>
 -----<br>
 Chandler, Arizona&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Sunset Zone: 13<br>
 <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.GardenersCorner.com">http://www.GardenersCorner.com</a><br>
 -----<br>
 Alan Zelhart&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <br>
 <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com">GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com</a><br>
 Gardens Co-listowner<br>
 <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html">http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html</a><br>
 -----<br>
 &nbsp;Oxymoron - Military Intelligence<br>
<br>
<br>
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:rodmmcq6@highstream.net">rodmmcq6@highstream.net</a> wrote:<br>
<blockquote type="cite"
 cite="mid008a01c33135$488e0300$d02c0a3f@ibmbna6040">
  <pre wrap="">Beth,
The orchid tree is not well adapted to our alkaline soil, salty water and
hot drying winds. It will usually look great in the spring and then when hot
weather gets here not look so great with leaf drop and browning leaves.
Proper watering will do a lot to help the orchid tree to get through the hot
weather.
For the past three weeks the temperature has been way above normal, the
relative humidity extremely low and with lots of drying winds all of which
translates into high water use and  stress for our trees and plants.
Most of out trees except the desert adapted ones should be deep watered once
a week during summer.  This means running a drip system a minimum of six
hours to get water to a depth of three  feet.
A free booklet titled LANDSCAPE WATERING BY THE NUMBERS is available from
most nurseries and the Water Conservation Dept. of your city.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener

-----Original Message-----
From: <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:beth.difelice@asu.edu">beth.difelice@asu.edu</a> <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:beth.difelice@asu.edu">&lt;beth.difelice@asu.edu&gt;</a>
To: <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu">arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu</a> <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu">&lt;arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu&gt;</a>
Date: Thursday, June 12, 2003 2:25 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page


  </pre>
  <blockquote type="cite">
    <pre wrap="">I have a purple orchid tree in my front yard in a house I bought last
    </pre>
  </blockquote>
  <pre wrap=""><!---->December. The tree looked nice then and bloomed beautifully this spring.
Now, almost all the leaves have fallen off. I have no idea how old the tree
is. Any advice?
  </pre>
  <blockquote type="cite">
    <pre wrap="">_______________________________________________
Arid_gardener mailing list
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu">Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu</a>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener">http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener</a>

    </pre>
  </blockquote>
  <pre wrap=""><!---->
_______________________________________________
Arid_gardener mailing list
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu">Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu</a>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener">http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener</a>



  </pre>
</blockquote>
<br>
<pre class="moz-signature" cols="$mailwrapcol">-- 
Chat with you later...
Alan
-----
Chandler, Arizona        Sunset Zone: 13
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.GardenersCorner.com">http://www.GardenersCorner.com</a>
-----
Alan Zelhart       
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com">GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com</a>
Gardens Co-listowner
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html">http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html</a>
-----
 THINK --it gives you something to do while the computer is down.

</pre>
<br>
</body>
</html>

--------------060707070600020502080107--


From drew_linda@hotmail.com  Thu Jun 12 23:49:58 2003
From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew)
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 23:49:58 +0000
Subject: [Arid_gardener] RE: Gardenias
Message-ID: <Law14-F99nrvDOv5y4F00027331@hotmail.com>

Here is an earlier response to a similar question:

Gardenias are difficult to grow in Southern Arizona.
Morning sun and at least partial shade in the afternoons
are necessary. They don't like our soil, our intense heat
nor our water.

A higher percentage of organic matter [up to 50% volume],
particularly of slightly acidic material like peat moss
or chipped bark is desirable. Pumice or vermiculite
incorporated [up to 1/3 the soil mix] improved drainage.
I have been taught  that the gravel in the bottom is more
to stop soil from running out drain holes. So you could
use a pice of screen across the bottom and fill the whole
pot with your mix.

Water the plant thoroughly until the water drains and
do NOT allow the water [with its leached salts] to be
reabsorbed into the pot. Our fact sheet on camellias
suggests incorporating some alkali neutralizing material
like soil sulfur or iron sulfate. Phosphate is necessary,
but not high levels of nitrogen. A mixed fertilizer is
recommended ever 4 to 6 weeks during the active growing
season.

They are susceptible to iron chlorosis or foliage yellowing
which is an indication that the watering interval should be
lengthened.

The appropriate pot size [diameter] for your gardenia is
about 1/3 the height of the plant from its top to the soil
line. Perhaps your pot isn't large enough?

Our fact sheet MC 29 on Gardenias and Camellias can be
ordered with instructions at
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm

Sometimes your local public library will have a notebook
with our Home Horticulture publications in the Reference
area, call # 635.

Linda Guy
Master Gardener

>From: EileNan6@aol.com (by way of Lucy Bradley <BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu>)
>To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
>Subject: [Arid_gardener] RE:  Gardenias
>Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 16:57:57 -0700
>
>Hi
>
>I'm trying to locate some information on growing Gardenias in Phoenix.  I'm 
>not sure you are the person to help but maybe you could direct me to the 
>correct person
>
>Thanks for your help
>EileNan6@aol.com

_________________________________________________________________
Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.  
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail


From BDMWUNO@aol.com  Fri Jun 13 16:12:22 2003
From: BDMWUNO@aol.com (BDMWUNO@aol.com)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 09:12:22 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306131612.h5DGCMt4025452@Ag.arizona.edu>

HI I AM HAVING INFESTATION OF TINY BUGS THAT JUMP LIKE FLEAS. THEY SEEM TO HAVE WINGS AND I ASSUME THEY ARE FLEA BEETLES.  ALSO HAVE SOME TINIER BUGS THAT JUST CRAWL THAT LOOK LIKE ANTS.  THE FLEA BEETLES ARE EVERYWHERE.  I EVEN FOUND THEM IN THE ROOTS BALLS OF SOME SNAP DRAGONS I HAD.  THEY HAVE BEEN HERE BEFORE BUT NEVER THIS BAD.  AT FIRST I THOUGHT THEY WERE JUST FRUIT FLY TYPE BUGS BECAUSE THEY WERE CONGREGATING IN THE COMPOST PILE.  CAN I USE NEMATODES, LADY BUGS OR WHAT.  I ALSO HAVE PROBLEM WITH SPIDER MITES AND ALWAYS HAVE.  ROSES HAVE APHIDS BUT IM NOT TOO WORRIED ABOUT THAT.  DONT WANT TO SPRAY BECAUSE OF THE HERBS.  I DID SPRAY ONCE.  HELP!  THANKS


From miskiel@email.msn.com  Thu Jun 12 23:23:06 2003
From: miskiel@email.msn.com (miskiel)
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 16:23:06 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] shade screen for new garden
Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20030612162222.01d66850@ag.arizona.edu>

--=====================_2349878==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

     I am forming an organic garden.  Although my tomato plants get some 
shade during the day, I would like to provide shade for the rest of the 
vegetables.  How can I do this, and do you know where I can purchase the 
necessary shading material of 50% shade or so.  All I can find is 60% and 
up to 90%
Irene Miskiel
<miskiel@email.msn.com>
--=====================_2349878==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
<font color="#800000">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I am forming an organic
garden.&nbsp; Although my tomato plants get some shade during the day, I
would like to provide shade for the rest of the vegetables.&nbsp; How can
I do this, and do you know where I can purchase the necessary shading
material of 50% shade or so.&nbsp; All I can find is 60% and up to
90%<br>
Irene Miskiel<br>
</font>&lt;miskiel@email.msn.com&gt;</html>

--=====================_2349878==_.ALT--


From elsberry@comcast.net  Fri Jun 13 16:59:11 2003
From: elsberry@comcast.net (Terry Elsberry)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 09:59:11 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Shredded Cedar Mulch
Message-ID: <000501c331cd$240c04d0$46502544@Ray>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--Boundary_(ID_p1A8vtd3G8NtTY/8RP65sg)
Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

I have read in several of your articles that shredded cedar mulch
resists blowing and washing away while providing and attractive and
functional ground cover. I am having some difficulty in locating a
landscaping supply in the Tucson area that carries this product. Any
assistance you can provide will be greatly appreciated.

 

T. Elsberry

Marana, AZ


--Boundary_(ID_p1A8vtd3G8NtTY/8RP65sg)
Content-type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

<html>

<head>
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<meta name=Generator content="Microsoft Word 10 (filtered)">

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<div class=Section1>

<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 face=Arial><span style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>I have read in several of your articles that shredded cedar
mulch resists blowing and washing away while providing and attractive and
functional ground cover. I am having some difficulty in locating a landscaping
supply in the Tucson area that carries this product. Any assistance you can
provide will be greatly appreciated.</span></font></p>

<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 face=Arial><span style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>&nbsp;</span></font></p>

<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 face=Arial><span style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>T. Elsberry</span></font></p>

<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 face=Arial><span style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>Marana, AZ</span></font></p>

</div>

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--Boundary_(ID_p1A8vtd3G8NtTY/8RP65sg)--

From sbarvian@prodigy.net  Fri Jun 13 16:54:13 2003
From: sbarvian@prodigy.net (Scott Barvian)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 09:54:13 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: sago palm
Message-ID: <004001c331cc$6beeb000$91014bab@lbmelman>

>> my sago is turning yellow what do i do for that.

Not much info here - where are you, how old is it, how often are you
watering/fertilizing, is it in the ground or in a pot, etc.

I have some sagos in my yard in Phoenix.  Several years ago they were in full sun,
but now my trees give them some shade.  In the early years they would turn yellow,
almost brown in the summertime.  Shade cloth helped a little but I put it directly
on the plants and this distorts the new growth.  They would always get their green
color back during the winter.  They really don't like the intense sun here - but seem
to be almost indestructible.  Rarely if ever do I fertilize them, and they get water
once a week for 4-5 hours on a 1 gph dripper.

See also http://www.rhapisgardens.com/sagos
I am currently trying to grow some plants from "pups" as this site shows.


From drew_linda@hotmail.com  Fri Jun 13 21:07:52 2003
From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 21:07:52 +0000
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Shredded Cedar Mulch
Message-ID: <Law14-F83CnMS08x2fI0002b7b5@hotmail.com>

re: shredded cedar mulch

In Tucson, several of the Ace Harware stores carried it (call ahead because
stock varies from one store to another), Rillito Nursery has it or can order 
it
I think, some of the Home Depots have carried it; I've not checked the
new Lowe's Store. Best to try calling ahead to be sure.

Linda Drew
Master Gardener

>From: Terry Elsberry <elsberry@comcast.net>
>To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
>Subject: [Arid_gardener] Shredded Cedar Mulch
>Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 09:59:11 -0700
>
>I have read in several of your articles that shredded cedar mulch
>resists blowing and washing away while providing and attractive and
>functional ground cover. I am having some difficulty in locating a
>landscaping supply in the Tucson area that carries this product. Any
>assistance you can provide will be greatly appreciated.
>
>
>
>T. Elsberry
>
>Marana, AZ
>

_________________________________________________________________
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http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963


From jalux@netzero.net  Fri Jun 13 21:36:03 2003
From: jalux@netzero.net (jalux@netzero.net)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 14:36:03 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306132136.h5DLa3t4018924@Ag.arizona.edu>

I have some Malathion insecticide that emits a strong odor. Is there a liquid chemical that can be mixed with the Malathion to eliminte or reduce the odor?
Thankyou.


From denisq@msn.com  Fri Jun 13 22:49:04 2003
From: denisq@msn.com (denisq@msn.com)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 15:49:04 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306132249.h5DMn4t4000920@Ag.arizona.edu>

I am looking for a landscape architect who can help me put together a design for my backyard.  Can anyone provide me with recommendations.  I've asked many people & no one is able to come up with a name for me.  I want someone who can design it & then I can decide what I can do & what I need to hire someone else to do.  thanks!


From drew_linda@hotmail.com  Fri Jun 13 23:24:15 2003
From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 23:24:15 +0000
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Malathion odor
Message-ID: <Law14-F82zDskqC5Etr00009543@hotmail.com>

Malathion is a synthetic chemical that emits a strong odor. I have not
found any references about how the smell could be neutralized or
covered up.

Here is some information from the Sunset Garden Book:

Is it necessary to use Malathion?
Integrated Pest Management (IPM) focuses first on good cultural practices,
second on physical controls, third on biological controls. As a last resort, 
IPM
turns to various sorts of pesticides, first selecting the least toxic ones, 
such
as insecticidal soap. If these are not successful, the use of stronger 
chemicals
(synthetics) may be warranted.

Chemical-based pesticides were introduced in the 1940s (some from nerve
gas research during the war). Over the long term, these chemicals have
been general unsuccessful, particularly in the home garden, and in several
cases have proven to be actively harmful to a wide range of nontarget
organisms, including humans and other mammals, birds, and beneficial 
insects.
malthion is toxic to honeybees, birds and fish.

>From: jalux@netzero.net
>To: <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
>Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 14:36:03 -0700 (MST)
>
>I have some Malathion insecticide that emits a strong odor. Is there a 
>liquid chemical that can be mixed with the Malathion to eliminte or reduce 
>the odor?
>Thankyou.
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener

_________________________________________________________________
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From mark@idec.com  Sat Jun 14 12:51:50 2003
From: mark@idec.com (mneufeld)
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2003 05:51:50 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Santa Ana Grass
Message-ID: <HCEMLPANNJGPKEFDDCBHEELJCMAA.mark@idec.com>

Hi ,
My Santa Ana grass is not growing well. Yes I fertilized it properly. Any
suggestions?



Thanks


From djcclp2@msn.com  Sat Jun 14 14:16:08 2003
From: djcclp2@msn.com (djcclp2@msn.com)
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2003 07:16:08 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306141416.h5EEG8t4010631@Ag.arizona.edu>

We live in north central Phoenix and want to replace the old burmuda grass in our yard.  In a previous home in Phoenix we had planted Zoysia and really like it, however we are finding it very difficult to obtain Zoysias this year - which makes us wonder if there have been problems with Zoysias in the Phoenix area.  How well does Empire Zoysia do in Phoenix?  Are there reasons we should chose a hybred-burmuda over a Zoysia?  What are the disavantages of either?  

Thank you for your time and attention


From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net  Sat Jun 14 16:12:09 2003
From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin)
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2003 09:12:09 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Malathion odor
References: <Law14-F82zDskqC5Etr00009543@hotmail.com>
Message-ID: <002001c3328f$b8662580$bd51530c@olin>

Organophosphate insecticides have an identifying odor that warns of
possible hazards.   Malathion is considered safe if used in
concentrations listed on the label but can overstimulate the nervous
system causing nausea, dizziness, confusion, and, at very high exposures
(e.g. accidents, major spills), respiratory paralysis and death.
Reference:
http://www.epa.gov/pesticides/op/malathion/summary.htm  q.v.
There is a good reason for the skunk-like (or garlic-like) odor and I
don't believe and I do not believe you would want to mask the
odor.  -Olin

----- Original Message ----- From:  jalux@netzero.net
>I have some Malathion insecticide that emits a strong odor.
>Is there a liquid chemical that can be mixed with the Malathion
>to eliminte or reduce the odor?


From rodmmcq6@highstream.net  Sat Jun 14 22:01:48 2003
From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net)
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2003 15:01:48 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf grasses for the low desert
Message-ID: <000601c332c0$a401d900$972c0a3f@ibmbna6040>

The following comparison  of turf grasses that are grown in the Arizona low
desert was done by Master Gardener and Research Agronomist Mike Hills.


Seeded Turfgrass Choices for the Low Desert                         7/30/99
Mike Hills - Master Gardener, Maricopa County - Research Agronomist, Seed
Research of Oregon

In general, the prime choice of turf for the low deserts of the Southwestern
USA is a variety of “Bermuda” or “Bermudagrass”.  This is primarily due to
our temperature extremes that may range from the mid-20’s for short periods
in winter, to 120 degrees F. in mid-summer.  The Cynodon or Bermudagrass
genus originates in Africa and India, with a wide genetic variation and
excellent ability to tolerate and survive stress.   Several other turfgrass
species are potential choices for the homeowner or professional turf manager
in the low deserts , under specific planting and care conditions.  These
minor choices include Dichondra, Zoysiagrass, St. Augustinegrass, Tall
Fescue, American Buffalograss and Perennial Ryegrass.

Please keep in mind, that just because turfgrass seeds are offered for sale
in your local nurseries and garden centers, they are not necessarily adapted
to or appropriate choices for your area.   With many stores participating in
national purchasing plans from their suppliers, we often see turfgrass seeds
inadvertently offered for sale that will not perform or last in the low
desert.  If you are unsure, check with your local extension office before
purchasing.

BERMUDAGRASS
In 90% of the turfgrass situations in these areas, a bermudagrass is the
best recommendation.   These can be obtained as vegetative or hybrid
bermudas, or seeded bermudas depending on your project plans, site, soil,
budget, maintenance plans, etc.  The commercially available hybrid
bermudagrass varieties generally do not produce seed and must be planted by
vegetative or clonal means - sod, sprigs or stolons and plugs.  Most bloom
at varying levels, especially when stressed, and a few hybrid bermuda
varieties may even produce a small amount of pollen.  Sod farms, nurseries
and garden centers in your area will handle the varieties adapted to the
local conditions.

For the non-professional or homeowner, the seeded bermudagrass varieties are
generally easier to plant, less expensive to establish and easier to
maintain than the hybrid bermudas.  If you have decided to plant your
bermuda turf from seed, you have numerous choices these days of varieties
and blends that are available.  These range from inexpensive “common”
bermuda harvested from natural populations in Arizona & California to a
number of “improved, turf-type” bermuda varieties that have been developed
in recent years, with a wide range of pricing.  Pollen and allergy
 “problems” with these seeded, blooming bermudas are minimal when mowed and
maintained as a healthy turf.

“Common” Bermudagrass seed is just that - COMMON.   Approximately 14 million
pounds of this seed is harvested from farmers’ fields in Arizona and
California each year and distributed worldwide.  99% of the world’s supply
of bermudagrass seed comes from these two states due to the perfect
combination of temperature, soil and water conditions.  Farmers have
developed this seed from naturalized stands of wild bermudagrass that were
introduced to this area by Spanish cattle several hundred years ago.  As
such, “common” bermuda is extremely variable in appearance (texture, color,
density, growth rate, etc.) and performance when planted in turf situations.
These bermuda plants are usually light green in color, prone to summer
chlorosis, have an open growth habit and a long dormancy period in winter.
Much of this seed is actually used around the world for pasture and hay
production, as well as erosion control and roadside dust control.  With good
care and perseverance, the homeowner or turf manager can produce an adequate
looking lawn with this seed, but better choices are readily available for
only minimal higher costs.   To further confuse the issue, bermudagrass seed
is available in a number of seed forms, depending on how it has been
processed after harvest. The natural form of the seed is “unhulled” with the
tan colored outer skin intact, which will slow germination speed.  “Hulled”
seed has had this skin mechanically removed to increase seed count and speed
germination.  “Coated” seed has been wrapped in a lime or clay based
substance, with traces of fertilizer for easier planting of the tiny seeds.
Seed counts range from 1 to 2 million seeds per pound with suggested
planting rates from 1 to 3 pounds seed per 1,000 square feet.  More is
definitely NOT better when seeding your lawn area!
 “Improved” or “Turf-Type” Bermudagrass seed has been developed by turfgrass
breeders specifically for use in turf situations.  The breeders have
selected plants for these varieties, that show darker green color, finer
texture, better density, less winter dormancy and better resistance to
insects and pests.  Generally these better quality seeded turf bermudas are
sold as “certified” or “blue tag” seed, with the addition to the label of a
blue, certified label assuring that the production fields were inspected by
an independent agency to verify that the seed is the improved variety shown
on the package.  Area nurseries and garden centers have been slow to handle
these improved seeded products, as they have been introduced and made
available over the last 10-12 years.  Most of the use of these newer seeded
bermuda varieties has been with turfgrass professionals with golf courses,
landscapers, parks, schools and sports fields in the USA and overseas.  It
has only been in the last 2-3 years that these better seeded bermuda
products have made it onto the homeowner consumer shelves.

These improved turf-type seeded bermudagrass products are also available in
the same choice of seed
as the common bermudagrass seed - “unhulled”, “hulled” and “coated”.
Generally though, due to marketing practices and seed production success
among the bermudagrass seed companies, the coated seed is the main form
available in garden centers and nurseries.  Approximately 20 different,
distinct varieties have been released in recent years, but visible and
performance differences among these varieties are minimal under typical
homeowner lawn maintenance systems.  In general, we recommend that you buy
whichever one you can find available at your local garden center, as long as
it is a “certified turf-type” variety.  Named varieties you may find
available include:  SAHARA, PRIMAVERA, SONESTA, GUYMON, MAJESTIC, MIRAGE,
PYRAMID, BLUEMUDA, SR9554, SULTAN, YUMA, JACKPOT, BLACKJACK, SR9500, SYDNEY
and SAVANNAH.  Certified blends of these varieties have also performed well
in turfgrass trials and several are marketed through retail channels:  these
include PRIMO Bermudagrass Blend & BERMUDA TRIANGLE Blend.

OTHER SEEDED TURFGRASS CHOICES - These are minor turfgrass choices for the
low desert and are definitely not intended for the novice gardener.  With
some plant knowledge for desert climates, plus some extra effort these turf
choices can make good lawns for the low desert homeowner or turf
professional.  Any turf choices not listed here should be questioned.

Dichondra - not technically a grass, this broadleaf turf choice is for low
traffic, more decorative areas.  Many people grow it in combination with
bermudagrass, although it does better alone.   Tolerant of shade, but not
very tolerant of drought this turf alternative can be planted from seed or
plugs and is generally available at local nurseries and garden centers in
season.
Zoysiagrass - long advertised as the “elite lawngrass”, this turfgrass can
be grown in the low deserts with some success.  It is slow growing, and not
as aggressive as bermuda which interests some people.  Blooms are scarce in
a turf situation, so pollen allergies are rare.  Most traditional varieties
were sold mail order by plugs, but this is not recommended due to the
expense, slow growth and poor adaptation of those mail order eastern
varieties.   Most zoysia prefers neutral or acidic soil and water
conditions, so chlorosis in the low desert is quite common, unless the newer
western origin varieties are used or a regular application of sulfur or iron
is maintained.  Seeded varieties are not usually available from local
sources, except as special order items.  There are some newer seeded
varieties with good turf characteristics, but most seed available is
 “common” seed harvested from pastures in China, and marketed in the USA
under different fancy brand labels - ex: Traveler brand, Zen brand, Panda
brand, etc.
St. Augustinegrass - this is an old standard for use in heavily shaded areas
and is quite common in older neighborhoods in the low desert, where large
trees have shaded out other turfgrasses through the years.   This creeping,
warm season turf is very coarse textured, and generally a light green color.
It is not invasive, as there are no underground rhizomes.  Only rarely
available as seed at this time, this grass is usually planted from plugs or
sod produced by local sod farms and sold through nurseries.
Tall Fescue - this seeded turfgrass choice is very shade tolerant, if
maintained at a higher 3-4 inch mowing height.  It rarely spreads and some
additional seed must be planted each fall to maintain sufficient turf cover.
Seeding is best accomplished in the fall to allow this cool climate,
European native to establish an extensive root system before the desert
summer hits.  Seed is readily available at nurseries, packaged under a wide
range of variety and brand names - all perform similarly in the low desert.
DO NOT FERTILIZE THIS GRASS BETWEEN MAY 15 AND SEPTEMBER 15 IN MOST LOW
DESERT CLIMATES.
American Buffalograss - this short, spreading grass is native to the Great
Plains of North America, from southern Canada south into northern Mexico.
Much in the press the last few years, this warm season turfgrass choice has
a place in the low desert where the turf owner wants a low input, low
maintenance choice - especially if the grass can be left to grow naturally
with only occasional mowing.  Buffalograss does go dormant in winter before
bermuda, and should not be overseeded.  Available at garden centers in the
low desert as seeded varieties or as sod - all perform similarly if properly
planted & maintained.
Perennial Ryegrass - generally a choice for winter overseeding of dormant
bermuda lawns, many of the newer more heat tolerant perennial ryegrasses can
be maintained in shaded, heavily watered areas as a weak year round turf.
Available from seed in a wide choice of varieties from local garden centers
and nurseries - should be planted in mid-fall for best results.

I trust that your questions about turfgrass have been answered.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener


-----Original Message-----
From: djcclp2@msn.com <djcclp2@msn.com>
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Date: Saturday, June 14, 2003 7:55 AM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page


>We live in north central Phoenix and want to replace the old burmuda grass
in our yard.  In a previous home in Phoenix we had planted Zoysia and really
like it, however we are finding it very difficult to obtain Zoysias this
year - which makes us wonder if there have been problems with Zoysias in the
Phoenix area.  How well does Empire Zoysia do in Phoenix?  Are there reasons
we should chose a hybred-burmuda over a Zoysia?  What are the disavantages
of either?
>
>Thank you for your time and attention
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>


From rodmmcq6@highstream.net  Sat Jun 14 21:38:55 2003
From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net)
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2003 14:38:55 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Santa Ana Grass
Message-ID: <002201c332bd$5c99d8e0$e62c0a3f@ibmbna6040>

Is your Santa Ana grass getting plenty of water ? The newspaper shows that
turf should be getting approximately 3/4 inch of water if watered three days
ago. Another way to check is with the screwdriver test. Using a screwdriver
with a 6 to 8 inch blade insert it into the ground after irrigation. The
screwdriver will penetrate easily to the depth the water has penetrated
which should be 6 to 8 inches.
Fertilizer should be applied monthly, 1/2 pound of actual nitrogen per 1000
square feet.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
----Original Message-----
From: mneufeld <mark@idec.com>
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Date: Friday, June 13, 2003 6:40 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Santa Ana Grass


>Hi ,
>My Santa Ana grass is not growing well. Yes I fertilized it properly. Any
>suggestions?
>
>
>
>Thanks
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>


From rogunit@knac.com  Sun Jun 15 09:52:09 2003
From: rogunit@knac.com (rogunit@knac.com)
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2003 02:52:09 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306150952.h5F9q9t4002748@Ag.arizona.edu>

Why are morning glories illegal in Arizona? Is it a serious offense if I plant some anyways? Just curious...

ROG   :}


From indymarilyn48@msn.com  Sun Jun 15 22:47:47 2003
From: indymarilyn48@msn.com (indymarilyn48@msn.com)
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2003 15:47:47 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306152247.h5FMllt4027376@Ag.arizona.edu>

Where is the best place in the Phoenix metro area to purchase bulk, by the yard, mulch?


From tmbc@cox.net  Sun Jun 15 21:03:32 2003
From: tmbc@cox.net (T. Cuprak)
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2003 14:03:32 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf grasses for the low desert
References: <000601c332c0$a401d900$972c0a3f@ibmbna6040>
Message-ID: <002b01c33381$9443e0a0$17c66344@tcjmbpm8f7q9r8>

Rod and others --

Here are some more first hand observations on buffalo grass ...

We have had buffalo grass in our Tempe lawn for over 10 years and are
extremely happy with it.  It is almost the same as bermuda as far as look,
texture, shade tolerance and growing season.   The big advantage we see is
in maintainance.  It grows slowly and does not spread under ground -- only
via surface runners so it is less invasive to other areas of our
landscaping.  We never mow more often than every two weeks, and often let it
go for more than a month.  It grows to about 6 inches and stops -- it looks
overgrown, but not quite as unsightly as overgrown bermuda because it does
not put out seed stalks like bermuda.   Like Zozia, it is very drought
tolerant and traffic areas can be a problem because it it so slow growing.

I have read recommendations to avoid the seeded version of buffalo grass,
because it forms seed pods that can be hard and uncomfortable for barefoot
toes on a lawn.  We have a sterile variety.   Half the yard was installed
from sod by a turf farm located in Stanfield AZ, the other half of the yard
we grew from our own stolens the following spring.

T. Cuprak

----- Original Message -----
From: <rodmmcq6@highstream.net>
To: <djcclp2@msn.com>
Cc: <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2003 3:01 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf grasses for the low desert


> The following comparison  of turf grasses that are grown in the Arizona
low
> desert was done by Master Gardener and Research Agronomist Mike Hills.
>
>
> Seeded Turfgrass Choices for the Low Desert
7/30/99
> Mike Hills - Master Gardener, Maricopa County - Research Agronomist, Seed
> Research of Oregon
>
> In general, the prime choice of turf for the low deserts of the
Southwestern
> USA is a variety of "Bermuda" or "Bermudagrass".  This is primarily due to
> our temperature extremes that may range from the mid-20's for short
periods
> in winter, to 120 degrees F. in mid-summer.  The Cynodon or Bermudagrass
> genus originates in Africa and India, with a wide genetic variation and
> excellent ability to tolerate and survive stress.   Several other
turfgrass
> species are potential choices for the homeowner or professional turf
manager
> in the low deserts , under specific planting and care conditions.  These
> minor choices include Dichondra, Zoysiagrass, St. Augustinegrass, Tall
> Fescue, American Buffalograss and Perennial Ryegrass.
>
> Please keep in mind, that just because turfgrass seeds are offered for
sale
> in your local nurseries and garden centers, they are not necessarily
adapted
> to or appropriate choices for your area.   With many stores participating
in
> national purchasing plans from their suppliers, we often see turfgrass
seeds
> inadvertently offered for sale that will not perform or last in the low
> desert.  If you are unsure, check with your local extension office before
> purchasing.
>
> BERMUDAGRASS
> In 90% of the turfgrass situations in these areas, a bermudagrass is the
> best recommendation.   These can be obtained as vegetative or hybrid
> bermudas, or seeded bermudas depending on your project plans, site, soil,
> budget, maintenance plans, etc.  The commercially available hybrid
> bermudagrass varieties generally do not produce seed and must be planted
by
> vegetative or clonal means - sod, sprigs or stolons and plugs.  Most bloom
> at varying levels, especially when stressed, and a few hybrid bermuda
> varieties may even produce a small amount of pollen.  Sod farms, nurseries
> and garden centers in your area will handle the varieties adapted to the
> local conditions.
>
> For the non-professional or homeowner, the seeded bermudagrass varieties
are
> generally easier to plant, less expensive to establish and easier to
> maintain than the hybrid bermudas.  If you have decided to plant your
> bermuda turf from seed, you have numerous choices these days of varieties
> and blends that are available.  These range from inexpensive "common"
> bermuda harvested from natural populations in Arizona & California to a
> number of "improved, turf-type" bermuda varieties that have been developed
> in recent years, with a wide range of pricing.  Pollen and allergy
>  "problems" with these seeded, blooming bermudas are minimal when mowed
and
> maintained as a healthy turf.
>
> "Common" Bermudagrass seed is just that - COMMON.   Approximately 14
million
> pounds of this seed is harvested from farmers' fields in Arizona and
> California each year and distributed worldwide.  99% of the world's supply
> of bermudagrass seed comes from these two states due to the perfect
> combination of temperature, soil and water conditions.  Farmers have
> developed this seed from naturalized stands of wild bermudagrass that were
> introduced to this area by Spanish cattle several hundred years ago.  As
> such, "common" bermuda is extremely variable in appearance (texture,
color,
> density, growth rate, etc.) and performance when planted in turf
situations.
> These bermuda plants are usually light green in color, prone to summer
> chlorosis, have an open growth habit and a long dormancy period in winter.
> Much of this seed is actually used around the world for pasture and hay
> production, as well as erosion control and roadside dust control.  With
good
> care and perseverance, the homeowner or turf manager can produce an
adequate
> looking lawn with this seed, but better choices are readily available for
> only minimal higher costs.   To further confuse the issue, bermudagrass
seed
> is available in a number of seed forms, depending on how it has been
> processed after harvest. The natural form of the seed is "unhulled" with
the
> tan colored outer skin intact, which will slow germination speed.
"Hulled"
> seed has had this skin mechanically removed to increase seed count and
speed
> germination.  "Coated" seed has been wrapped in a lime or clay based
> substance, with traces of fertilizer for easier planting of the tiny
seeds.
> Seed counts range from 1 to 2 million seeds per pound with suggested
> planting rates from 1 to 3 pounds seed per 1,000 square feet.  More is
> definitely NOT better when seeding your lawn area!
>  "Improved" or "Turf-Type" Bermudagrass seed has been developed by
turfgrass
> breeders specifically for use in turf situations.  The breeders have
> selected plants for these varieties, that show darker green color, finer
> texture, better density, less winter dormancy and better resistance to
> insects and pests.  Generally these better quality seeded turf bermudas
are
> sold as "certified" or "blue tag" seed, with the addition to the label of
a
> blue, certified label assuring that the production fields were inspected
by
> an independent agency to verify that the seed is the improved variety
shown
> on the package.  Area nurseries and garden centers have been slow to
handle
> these improved seeded products, as they have been introduced and made
> available over the last 10-12 years.  Most of the use of these newer
seeded
> bermuda varieties has been with turfgrass professionals with golf courses,
> landscapers, parks, schools and sports fields in the USA and overseas.  It
> has only been in the last 2-3 years that these better seeded bermuda
> products have made it onto the homeowner consumer shelves.
>
> These improved turf-type seeded bermudagrass products are also available
in
> the same choice of seed
> as the common bermudagrass seed - "unhulled", "hulled" and "coated".
> Generally though, due to marketing practices and seed production success
> among the bermudagrass seed companies, the coated seed is the main form
> available in garden centers and nurseries.  Approximately 20 different,
> distinct varieties have been released in recent years, but visible and
> performance differences among these varieties are minimal under typical
> homeowner lawn maintenance systems.  In general, we recommend that you buy
> whichever one you can find available at your local garden center, as long
as
> it is a "certified turf-type" variety.  Named varieties you may find
> available include:  SAHARA, PRIMAVERA, SONESTA, GUYMON, MAJESTIC, MIRAGE,
> PYRAMID, BLUEMUDA, SR9554, SULTAN, YUMA, JACKPOT, BLACKJACK, SR9500,
SYDNEY
> and SAVANNAH.  Certified blends of these varieties have also performed
well
> in turfgrass trials and several are marketed through retail channels:
these
> include PRIMO Bermudagrass Blend & BERMUDA TRIANGLE Blend.
>
> OTHER SEEDED TURFGRASS CHOICES - These are minor turfgrass choices for the
> low desert and are definitely not intended for the novice gardener.  With
> some plant knowledge for desert climates, plus some extra effort these
turf
> choices can make good lawns for the low desert homeowner or turf
> professional.  Any turf choices not listed here should be questioned.
>
> Dichondra - not technically a grass, this broadleaf turf choice is for low
> traffic, more decorative areas.  Many people grow it in combination with
> bermudagrass, although it does better alone.   Tolerant of shade, but not
> very tolerant of drought this turf alternative can be planted from seed or
> plugs and is generally available at local nurseries and garden centers in
> season.
> Zoysiagrass - long advertised as the "elite lawngrass", this turfgrass can
> be grown in the low deserts with some success.  It is slow growing, and
not
> as aggressive as bermuda which interests some people.  Blooms are scarce
in
> a turf situation, so pollen allergies are rare.  Most traditional
varieties
> were sold mail order by plugs, but this is not recommended due to the
> expense, slow growth and poor adaptation of those mail order eastern
> varieties.   Most zoysia prefers neutral or acidic soil and water
> conditions, so chlorosis in the low desert is quite common, unless the
newer
> western origin varieties are used or a regular application of sulfur or
iron
> is maintained.  Seeded varieties are not usually available from local
> sources, except as special order items.  There are some newer seeded
> varieties with good turf characteristics, but most seed available is
>  "common" seed harvested from pastures in China, and marketed in the USA
> under different fancy brand labels - ex: Traveler brand, Zen brand, Panda
> brand, etc.
> St. Augustinegrass - this is an old standard for use in heavily shaded
areas
> and is quite common in older neighborhoods in the low desert, where large
> trees have shaded out other turfgrasses through the years.   This
creeping,
> warm season turf is very coarse textured, and generally a light green
color.
> It is not invasive, as there are no underground rhizomes.  Only rarely
> available as seed at this time, this grass is usually planted from plugs
or
> sod produced by local sod farms and sold through nurseries.
> Tall Fescue - this seeded turfgrass choice is very shade tolerant, if
> maintained at a higher 3-4 inch mowing height.  It rarely spreads and some
> additional seed must be planted each fall to maintain sufficient turf
cover.
> Seeding is best accomplished in the fall to allow this cool climate,
> European native to establish an extensive root system before the desert
> summer hits.  Seed is readily available at nurseries, packaged under a
wide
> range of variety and brand names - all perform similarly in the low
desert.
> DO NOT FERTILIZE THIS GRASS BETWEEN MAY 15 AND SEPTEMBER 15 IN MOST LOW
> DESERT CLIMATES.
> American Buffalograss - this short, spreading grass is native to the Great
> Plains of North America, from southern Canada south into northern Mexico.
> Much in the press the last few years, this warm season turfgrass choice
has
> a place in the low desert where the turf owner wants a low input, low
> maintenance choice - especially if the grass can be left to grow naturally
> with only occasional mowing.  Buffalograss does go dormant in winter
before
> bermuda, and should not be overseeded.  Available at garden centers in the
> low desert as seeded varieties or as sod - all perform similarly if
properly
> planted & maintained.
> Perennial Ryegrass - generally a choice for winter overseeding of dormant
> bermuda lawns, many of the newer more heat tolerant perennial ryegrasses
can
> be maintained in shaded, heavily watered areas as a weak year round turf.
> Available from seed in a wide choice of varieties from local garden
centers
> and nurseries - should be planted in mid-fall for best results.
>
> I trust that your questions about turfgrass have been answered.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Rod McKusick
> Master Gardener
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: djcclp2@msn.com <djcclp2@msn.com>
> To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
> Date: Saturday, June 14, 2003 7:55 AM
> Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>
>
> >We live in north central Phoenix and want to replace the old burmuda
grass
> in our yard.  In a previous home in Phoenix we had planted Zoysia and
really
> like it, however we are finding it very difficult to obtain Zoysias this
> year - which makes us wonder if there have been problems with Zoysias in
the
> Phoenix area.  How well does Empire Zoysia do in Phoenix?  Are there
reasons
> we should chose a hybred-burmuda over a Zoysia?  What are the disavantages
> of either?
> >
> >Thank you for your time and attention
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >Arid_gardener mailing list
> >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>



From GardenGuy@gardenerscorner.com  Sun Jun 15 19:36:17 2003
From: GardenGuy@gardenerscorner.com (GardenerGuy@gardenerscorner.com)
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2003 12:36:17 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
References: <200306150952.h5F9q9t4002748@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <3EECCAB1.1070606@gardenerscorner.com>

I asked this question once a couple of years ago, and was told that the 
morning glories would get into the cotton fields and choke out the 
cotton, although I've never observed this happening.   I do not know the 
fee's associated with violating the law on this.  I was surprised to see 
packets of Morning Glories on sale at Home Depot this last spring, and 
was wondering if they had removed the restrictions on this plant.  I 
still didn't buy any, because I do not want to break the law, I may not 
be able to afford the fee's.  I had tried morning glories a couple of 
times before I knew it was against the law, and they really seemed to 
struggle once it got into the mid 100's.  Most died within a few weeks, 
with only a few blooms before their demise.  So I kind of figured they 
weren't worth having anyway, if they looked scraggly during the hottest 
part of the summer.  I haven't tried them since. although they might 
make it fine in a bright light filtered area.  I had planted them in 
full sun.
Chat with you later...
Alan
-----
Chandler, Arizona        Sunset Zone: 13
http://www.GardenersCorner.com
-----
Alan Zelhart      
GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com
Gardens Co-listowner
http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html
-----
 The first duty of a revolutionary is to get away with it




rogunit@knac.com wrote:

>Why are morning glories illegal in Arizona? Is it a serious offense if I plant some anyways? Just curious...
>
>ROG   :}
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>
>
>
>  
>

-- 
Chat with you later...
Alan
-----
Chandler, Arizona        Sunset Zone: 13
http://www.GardenersCorner.com
-----
Alan Zelhart       
GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com
Gardens Co-listowner
http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html
-----
 Windows NT: Vapourware of the desperate and scared





From watsontl@mindspring.com  Sun Jun 15 22:30:42 2003
From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson)
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2003 15:30:42 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] shade screen for new garden
References: <5.1.0.14.2.20030612162222.01d66850@ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <009c01c3338d$c29adc40$e948b83f@S0029317241>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0099_01C33353.15336DE0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I've never found 50% shade cloth in local garden centers or hardware =
stores, and have settled for 60%, which has worked very well.   I have, =
however, seen 50% cloth available through catalogs such as Charlie's, =
A.M. Leonards, and Worm's Way.   These all have websites, so you can =
check them out online.   But if you are growing your garden in the =
Phoenix metro area, 60% is not overkill by any measure.   So if that's =
readily available, I'd suggest using it.

Tom
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: miskiel (by way of Lucy Bradley <BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu>)=20
  To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20
  Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2003 4:23 PM
  Subject: [Arid_gardener] shade screen for new garden


      I am forming an organic garden.  Although my tomato plants get =
some shade during the day, I would like to provide shade for the rest of =
the vegetables.  How can I do this, and do you know where I can purchase =
the necessary shading material of 50% shade or so.  All I can find is =
60% and up to 90%
  Irene Miskiel
  <miskiel@email.msn.com> 
------=_NextPart_000_0099_01C33353.15336DE0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1170" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I've never found 50% shade cloth in =
local garden=20
centers or hardware stores, and have settled for 60%, which has worked =
very=20
well.&nbsp;&nbsp; I have, however, seen 50% cloth available through =
catalogs=20
such as Charlie's, A.M. Leonards, and Worm's Way.&nbsp;&nbsp; These all =
have=20
websites, so you can check them out online.&nbsp;&nbsp; But if you are =
growing=20
your garden in the Phoenix metro area, 60% is not overkill by any=20
measure.&nbsp;&nbsp; So if that's readily available, I'd suggest using=20
it.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Tom</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3Dmiskiel@email.msn.com =
href=3D"mailto:BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu>)">miskiel=20
  (by way of Lucy Bradley &lt;BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu&gt;)</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Darid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20
  =
href=3D"mailto:arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu">arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=
</A>=20
  </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, June 12, 2003 =
4:23=20
  PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [Arid_gardener] shade =
screen for=20
  new garden</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV><FONT color=3D#800000>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I am forming =
an organic=20
  garden.&nbsp; Although my tomato plants get some shade during the day, =
I would=20
  like to provide shade for the rest of the vegetables.&nbsp; How can I =
do this,=20
  and do you know where I can purchase the necessary shading material of =
50%=20
  shade or so.&nbsp; All I can find is 60% and up to 90%<BR>Irene=20
  Miskiel<BR></FONT>&lt;<A=20
  href=3D"mailto:miskiel@email.msn.com">miskiel@email.msn.com</A>&gt;=20
</BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From gwright@Ag.arizona.edu  Mon Jun 16 15:35:25 2003
From: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu (Glenn C. Wright)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 08:35:25 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd:
Message-ID: <5.1.1.6.2.20030616083518.029487d8@ag.arizona.edu>

--=====================_258103546==.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed


>From: "Mark Rosenberg" <MRosenberg@cox.net>
>To: <gwright@Ag.arizona.edu>
>Subject:
>Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2003 18:56:22 -0700
>X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2720.3000
>
>I've been having a problem lately.Can't tell if it's over 
>watering,underwatering or a root fugus.I've received all of the above as 
>answers from the various nurseries.Almost all my fruit has been dropping 
>off.About the size of quarters to half dollars.They are grapefruit and 
>orange in Arizona. These trees have done fine in the past,any ideas about 
>what usually causes a sudden dropping of the fruit.On my orange tree I've 
>lost almost all of it.

Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D.
Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist
University of Arizona - Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center
2186 W. County 15th Street
Somerton, AZ 85350
Phone: 928-726-0458
FAX: 928-726-1363
e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu
--=====================_258103546==.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
<font size=3><br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>From: &quot;Mark Rosenberg&quot;
&lt;MRosenberg@cox.net&gt;<br>
To: &lt;gwright@Ag.arizona.edu&gt;<br>
Subject: <br>
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2003 18:56:22 -0700<br>
X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2720.3000<br><br>
</font><font face="arial" size=2>I've been having a problem lately.Can't
tell if it's over watering,underwatering or a root fugus.I've received
all of the above as answers from the various nurseries.Almost all my
fruit has been dropping off.About the size of quarters to half
dollars.They are grapefruit and orange in Arizona. These trees have done
fine in the past,any ideas about what usually causes a sudden dropping of
the fruit.On my orange tree I've lost almost all of
it.</font><font size=3></blockquote>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D.<br>
Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist<br>
University of Arizona - Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center<br>
2186 W. County 15th Street<br>
Somerton, AZ 85350<br>
Phone: 928-726-0458<br>
FAX: 928-726-1363<br>
e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu</font></html>

--=====================_258103546==.ALT--



From t-ldavis@worldnet.att.net  Mon Jun 16 19:18:03 2003
From: t-ldavis@worldnet.att.net (t-ldavis@worldnet.att.net)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 12:18:03 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306161918.h5GJI3t4008776@Ag.arizona.edu>

We planted an arizona ash tree.  It is rather large for a boxed tree (45 inch box). We are not sure how much to water it and how often?  Slow soak 2 or 3 times a week?  For how long? Or, do you go by gallons?

Thank You,

Ted Davis in Gilbert


From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net  Mon Jun 16 19:46:28 2003
From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 12:46:28 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] shade screen for new garden
References: <5.1.0.14.2.20030612162222.01d66850@ag.arizona.edu> <009c01c3338d$c29adc40$e948b83f@S0029317241>
Message-ID: <000901c33440$16ae9f80$5157530c@olin>

At this time of the year (expecting 110 deg today), 75 % isn't too
dense.  Fifty per cent is heavy enough in May.  -Olin

----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom & Linda Watson"
<watsontl@mindspring.com>
>I've never found 50% shade cloth in local garden centers or hardware
stores, and have settled for 60%, which >has worked very well.   I have,
however, seen 50% cloth available through catalogs such as Charlie's,
A.M. >Leonards, and Worm's Way.   These all have websites, so you can
check them out online.   But if you are >growing your garden in the
Phoenix metro area, 60% is not overkill by any measure.   So if that's
readily >available, I'd suggest using it.
>Tom

 > ----- Original Message -----  From: miskiel (by way of Lucy Bradley
<BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu>)
>>      I am forming an organic garden.  Although my tomato plants get
some shade during the day, I would like >>to provide shade for the rest
of the vegetables.  How can I do this, and do you know where I can
purchase >>the necessary shading material of 50% shade or so.  All I can
find is 60% and up to 90%
>>  Irene Miskiel


From rhanneman@yahoo.com  Mon Jun 16 20:02:39 2003
From: rhanneman@yahoo.com (rhanneman@yahoo.com)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 13:02:39 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306162002.h5GK2dt4018373@Ag.arizona.edu>

There seems to be a variety of opinions on drip system settings amongst supposed in the know people.  I know deeper less frequent is the way but...

In Surprise, AZ what are your recommeded settings for drip systems and when do they change?  Also is it any better if the settings were changed in 2 steps rather than 1 step?

Using 1 gph emitters

1  General plants (1 per plt)
   [no cacti]

2  Trees          (4 per tree)

Thank you.


From rodmmcq6@highstream.net  Mon Jun 16 22:32:41 2003
From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 15:32:41 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Watering a newly planted tree
Message-ID: <003301c33457$34339260$812c0a3f@ibmbna6040>

Ted,
A newly planted tree this time of year should be watered every other day for
two weeks with enough water to wet the entire root ball. Then extend the
interval to every three days for another two weeks, then extend the interval
to every four days for another two weeks etc. until you are watering once a
week each time wetting the entire root ball. Continue watering once a week
throughout the summer until the temperatures cool off  when you should then
start extending the interval again to once every two to three weeks during
winter.
An excellent booklet titled LANDSCAPE WATERING BY THE NUMBERS is available
free from most nurseries and your cities water conservation department.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener


-----Original Message-----
From: t-ldavis@worldnet.att.net <t-ldavis@worldnet.att.net>
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Date: Monday, June 16, 2003 1:19 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page


>We planted an arizona ash tree.  It is rather large for a boxed tree (45
inch box). We are not sure how much to water it and how often?  Slow soak 2
or 3 times a week?  For how long? Or, do you go by gallons?
>
>Thank You,
>
>Ted Davis in Gilbert
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>


From rodmmcq6@highstream.net  Mon Jun 16 23:03:37 2003
From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 16:03:37 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Irrigation system settings
Message-ID: <003801c3345b$866462e0$812c0a3f@ibmbna6040>

Yes it is best to deep water trees and plants at infrequent intervals,  in
fact the health of the plants will depend on it.
Improperly watered plants will soon become stressed and stressed plants are
very susceptable to attack by disease and insects.
Because of the variable water requirements of different trees and plants it
is impossible to to tell you how to set your drip system with out knowing
what plants you have.
It is also important to know how many programs your time clock has.
As a general rule during summer annuals should be watered every three to
four days, shrubs every five to ten days and trees every one to three weeks.
Water should penetrate 1 foot deep for plants, 2 feet deep for shrubs and
three feet deep for trees.
I would suggest using either 2 GPH or adjustable drippers on trees, you just
won't be able to apply enough water with 1 GPH drippers.
An excellent booklet titled LANDSCAPE WATERING BY THE NUMBERS is available
from most nurseries and the water conservation department of your city.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener


-----Original Message-----
From: rhanneman@yahoo.com <rhanneman@yahoo.com>
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Date: Monday, June 16, 2003 1:52 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page


>There seems to be a variety of opinions on drip system settings amongst
supposed in the know people.  I know deeper less frequent is the way but...
>
>In Surprise, AZ what are your recommeded settings for drip systems and when
do they change?  Also is it any better if the settings were changed in 2
steps rather than 1 step?
>
>Using 1 gph emitters
>
>1  General plants (1 per plt)
>   [no cacti]
>
>2  Trees          (4 per tree)
>
>Thank you.
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>


From rodmmcq6@highstream.net  Mon Jun 16 23:14:57 2003
From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 16:14:57 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus leaf and fruit drop
Message-ID: <004501c3345d$2f4d3de0$812c0a3f@ibmbna6040>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Mark,
Since you didn't tell us how much water you are applying or how often,  =
it is impossible to tell you whether you are over or under watering.
However I suspect that you are under watering your citrus trees.
The following website will tell you how much water to apply to your =
citrus at this time of year:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener

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<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type =
content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2600.0" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Mark,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Since you didn't tell us how much water you are =
applying or=20
how often, &nbsp;it is impossible to tell you whether you are over or =
under=20
watering.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>However I suspect that you are under watering your =
citrus=20
trees.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>The following website will tell you how much water =
to apply to=20
your citrus at this time of year:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf">http://ag.arizona.ed=
u/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Good luck.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Rod McKusick</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Master Gardener</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From rodmmcq6@highstream.net  Mon Jun 16 23:33:19 2003
From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 16:33:19 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pine tree loosing needles
Message-ID: <004f01c3345f$ac520620$812c0a3f@ibmbna6040>

Your pine trees probably have Aleppo Pine Blight, a physiological disorder
rather than one caused by a parasite. Conditions favoring this malady are
hot drying winds and low relative humidity.
Maintaining a deep water supply throughout the year is helpful in preventing
this condition. Irrigate so that water reaches the five foot depth for
mature trees.
As for controlling the size of your pines, I would suggest that you have a
certified arborist out to give you a cost estimate and the practicality of
doing so.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
-----Original Message-----
From: gmbliss@juno.com <gmbliss@juno.com>
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Date: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 7:54 AM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page


>One of my Goldwater (Elderica?)pine trees needles are seriously turning
brown, yet I've new growth at the ends of the branches.  The other pines
don't seem to have the problem in such extreme.  What can/should I do?  I'm
concerned I'll end up with a naked tree except for green needles on the ends
of the branches.  Also, is there any way to control the trees horizontal
growth?  I think it has reached its mature height but now it is spreading
horizontally.  I didn't realize they would get so big (I've got four in a
space that is way to small for them.
>
>Thanks for your help.
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>


From rodmmcq6@highstream.net  Mon Jun 16 23:43:30 2003
From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2003 16:43:30 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus loosing leaves
Message-ID: <005901c33461$187fb300$812c0a3f@ibmbna6040>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0056_01C33426.6B144D00
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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Watering your citrus once a week is proper for summer time watering =
provided you apply enough water each time.
The following site will tell you how much water to apply:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf
It is common to have some immature fruit drop this time of year,  the =
tree will rid itself of any fruit it cannot handle.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener

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<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type =
content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2600.0" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Watering your citrus once a week is proper for =
summer time=20
watering provided you apply enough water each time.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>The following site will tell you how much water to=20
apply:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf">http://ag.arizona.ed=
u/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>It is common to have some immature fruit drop this =
time of=20
year,&nbsp; the tree will rid itself of any fruit it cannot =
handle.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Good luck.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Rod McKusick</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Master Gardener</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From lsveith@swlink.net  Wed Jun 18 14:45:07 2003
From: lsveith@swlink.net (lsveith@swlink.net)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 07:45:07 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306181445.h5IEj7rb009694@Ag.arizona.edu>

Will coconut palms grow in the phoenix valley?
In advance thank you for your immediate response.
Leland Veith


From jahmesa@cox.net  Wed Jun 18 15:43:44 2003
From: jahmesa@cox.net (jahmesa@cox.net)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 08:43:44 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306181543.h5IFhiIc019815@Ag.arizona.edu>

My roses have suffered with leaf burn and general bad conditionfor the past several summers.  I have had conflicting advice about fertilizing during the summer months.  Should I continue to fertilize during the heat and, if so, how often?   And, is there anything else that I can do to help the roses get through the hot months?  My home is in the east valley.


From Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com  Wed Jun 18 16:28:45 2003
From: Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com (Zelhart Alan-rpcs30)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 09:28:45 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] RE: Summer Rose Care, Arizona
Message-ID: <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B9930706527D7F@az33exm25.corp.mot.com>

Hi jahmesa,

I'm assuming you are talking leaf burn from fertilizer?  In order to avoid this on my roses, I fertilize in late afternoon, as the sun is setting.  Also, in the summer I fertilize at half strength.  I generally use a water soluble fertilizer such as Miracle gro.  After I have fertilized all the roses, I go back over them with clear water, no fertilizer to wash the remnants of any fertilizer that might be left off the leaves.  Remember, "always" water your roses first, then fertilize, then water them again.  For more detailed instructions for how I care for my roses throughout the year, feel free to visit a web page I have set up on my website, "Arizona, 12 Months of Rose Care".

http://www.gardenerscorner.com/ArizonaRoseCare.html

Chat with you later,
Alan
-- 
Chandler, Arizona        Sunset Zone: 13
http://www.GardenersCorner.com
-----
Alan Zelhart       
gizmoaz@cox.net
Gardens Co-listowner
http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html
-----
  "I'd love to, but my favorite commercial is on TV"""




-----Original Message-----
From: jahmesa@cox.net [mailto:jahmesa@cox.net]
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2003 8:44 AM
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page


My roses have suffered with leaf burn and general bad conditionfor the past several summers.  I have had conflicting advice about fertilizing during the summer months.  Should I continue to fertilize during the heat and, if so, how often?   And, is there anything else that I can do to help the roses get through the hot months?  My home is in the east valley.

_______________________________________________
Arid_gardener mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener

From mpilley@midsouth.rr.com  Wed Jun 18 16:58:17 2003
From: mpilley@midsouth.rr.com (mpilley@midsouth.rr.com)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 09:58:17 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306181658.h5IGwHIc006404@Ag.arizona.edu>

What can you do about blossom drop in yellow crooked neck squash?


From sam63@cox.net  Wed Jun 18 17:14:07 2003
From: sam63@cox.net (sam63@cox.net)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 10:14:07 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306181714.h5IHE7Ic010321@Ag.arizona.edu>

I have purchased several succelent plants;ie A Jade and Elephant (foot or food) I want to plant these plants out side in a area of constant shade.I would like to plant in the ground with the right soil mixture instead of pots.
Can you advise me 1.If I can plant these plants in the ground instead of pot 2.What is the best soil mixture? 
Thanks
Samuel Hill


From bmahs@worldnet.att.net  Wed Jun 18 23:03:21 2003
From: bmahs@worldnet.att.net (bmahs@worldnet.att.net)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 16:03:21 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306182303.h5IN3LIc022636@Ag.arizona.edu>

I planted a macadamia nut this spring. Now that the heat is here it's not doing well. The California Rare Fruit Growers  weren't much help for this area. Has anyone has any luck and if so what's the secret? I'm trying to grow some of the exotics that you have over on Broadway. Thanks for any help.
              Brian


From drew_linda@hotmail.com  Thu Jun 19 00:49:11 2003
From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew)
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 00:49:11 +0000
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Macadamia tree
Message-ID: <Law14-F65NwG11bsH9w00042d29@hotmail.com>

info from Sunset Western Garden Book:

Macadamia is adapted to coastal climates of Hawaii and southern
California with summer highs of 65-low 80s, winter lows in mid-40s.
It prefers deep, rich soil and regular water. Avoid windy sites.
Best if planted in fall to establish roots before warm weather.

I have not seen in grown, but this description sounds like it isn't
well-adapted to heat and low humidity.

Linda Drew
Master Gardener


>From: bmahs@worldnet.att.net
>To: <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
>Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 16:03:21 -0700 (MST)
>
>I planted a macadamia nut this spring. Now that the heat is here it's not 
>doing well. The California Rare Fruit Growers  weren't much help for this 
>area. Has anyone has any luck and if so what's the secret? I'm trying to 
>grow some of the exotics that you have over on Broadway. Thanks for any 
>help.
>               Brian
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener

_________________________________________________________________
Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.  
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail


From rob@coursejunction.com  Thu Jun 19 04:09:53 2003
From: rob@coursejunction.com (Rob)
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 00:09:53 -0400
Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject)
Message-ID: <000a01c33618$a3354c40$0200000a@cx6s011>

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We have had some requests for gardening courses and would like to invite
you to list on our site: www.coursejunction.com
<http://www.coursejunction.com/> .
 
Please let me know if you have any questions.
 
Thanks,
 
Rob 
 
 
 
 
 

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<div class=3DSection1>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial;mso-no-proof:yes'>We have had some requests for =
gardening
courses and would like to invite you to list on our site: <a
href=3D"http://www.coursejunction.com/">www.coursejunction.com</a>.<o:p><=
/o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial;mso-no-proof:yes'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial;mso-no-proof:yes'>Please let me know if you have any
questions.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial;mso-no-proof:yes'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial;mso-no-proof:yes'>Thanks,<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial;mso-no-proof:yes'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial;mso-no-proof:yes'>Rob</span></font><span =
style=3D'mso-no-proof:
yes'>&nbsp;</span><o:p></o:p></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 face=3D"Times New Roman"><span =
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12.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></font></p>

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<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 face=3D"Times New Roman"><span =
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12.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 face=3D"Times New Roman"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
12.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 face=3D"Times New Roman"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
12.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></font></p>

</div>

</body>

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From charles.v.sanders@boeing.com  Thu Jun 19 16:20:23 2003
From: charles.v.sanders@boeing.com (Sanders, Charles V)
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 11:20:23 -0500
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ocotillo Cuttings
Message-ID: <93886467E95FCB40A0C2BFD8DD31A177D11062@XCH-SE-11.se.nos.boeing.com>

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What is the best method of collecting and planting Ocotillo cuttings?

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From Brenda@ogccpa.com  Fri Jun 20 13:23:17 2003
From: Brenda@ogccpa.com (Brenda Grundhofer)
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 08:23:17 -0500
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gardenia
Message-ID: <25F6ACFD8C4BD4118B46001083CF12EE2EFC3F@cpa1nt.ogccpa.com>

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I live in Minnesota and just recently my garden has been attacked by
tiny light green flying insects.  They lay there eggs on the leaves,
then the insects destroy each leaf.  It turns brown and falls off. No
visible hole are in the leaf and they only attack the large leaves and
leave the young leaves along.  The gardenia stalk has also turned
brownish, yet keeps on growing.  Can I cut off the dead part of the
stalk and restart the plant? =20
It has only been planted for 1 year and I have not received flowers yet,
which would take two years after potting.  I received the plant as a
stalk w/no leaves.

Thank you for you knowledge.

Brenda M. Grundhofer=20
(763)694-2523=20
brenda@ogccpa.com=20

O'Connor, Gearty & Co., Ltd.=20
3140 Harbor Lane, Suite 100=20
Plymouth, MN 55447=20
www.ogccpa.com=20

O'Connor, Gearty & Co., Ltd.  realizes the importance of protecting the
privacy of our customers.  The information we are transmitting is
intended only for the person to which it is addressed.  If you have
received this information in error, please do not use it, retain it, or
transfer it.  Please contact us and delete the transmission from your
computers. =20



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<P ALIGN=3DLEFT><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">I =
live in Minnesota and just recently my garden has been attacked =
by</FONT></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT =
SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial"> tiny light green flying insects.&nbsp; They lay =
there eggs on the leaves, then the insects destroy each leaf.&nbsp; =
I</FONT></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT =
SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">t turns brown and falls off. No visible hole are =
in the leaf and they only attack the large leaves and leave the young =
leaves along.&nbsp; The gardenia stalk has also turned brownish, yet =
keeps on growing.</FONT></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us">&nbsp;<FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial"> Can I cut off the =
dead part of the stalk and restart the plant?&nbsp; </FONT></SPAN></P>

<P ALIGN=3DLEFT><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">It =
has only been planted for 1 year and I have not received flowers yet, =
which would take two years after potting.</FONT></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us">&nbsp;<FONT SIZE=3D2 =
FACE=3D"Arial"> I received the plant as a stalk w/no =
leaves.</FONT></SPAN></P>

<P ALIGN=3DLEFT><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">Thank =
you for you knowledge.</FONT></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN></P>

<P ALIGN=3DLEFT><SPAN LANG=3D"en"></SPAN><A NAME=3D""><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en"><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Courier New">Brenda M. =
Grundhofer</FONT></SPAN></A><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en"><FONT FACE=3D"Arial"><BR>
</FONT></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en"><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Courier =
New">(763)694-2523</FONT></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en"><FONT FACE=3D"Arial"><BR>
</FONT></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en"><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Courier =
New">brenda@ogccpa.com</FONT></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en"><FONT FACE=3D"Arial"> </FONT></SPAN></P>

<P ALIGN=3DLEFT><SPAN LANG=3D"en"><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Courier =
New">O'Connor, Gearty &amp; Co., Ltd.</FONT></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en"><FONT FACE=3D"Arial"><BR>
</FONT></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en"><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Courier =
New">3140 Harbor Lane, Suite 100</FONT></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en"><FONT FACE=3D"Arial"><BR>
</FONT></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en"><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Courier =
New">Plymouth, MN 55447</FONT></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en"><FONT FACE=3D"Arial"><BR>
</FONT></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en"><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Courier =
New">www.ogccpa.com</FONT></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN =
LANG=3D"en"><FONT FACE=3D"Arial"> </FONT></SPAN></P>

<P ALIGN=3DLEFT><SPAN LANG=3D"en">O&#8217;Connor, Gearty &amp; Co., =
Ltd.&nbsp; realizes the importance of protecting the privacy of our =
customers.&nbsp; The information we are transmitting is intended only =
for the person to which it is addressed.&nbsp; If you have received this =
information in error, please do not use it, retain it, or transfer =
it.&nbsp; Please contact us and delete the transmission from your =
computers.&nbsp;</SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN><SPAN LANG=3D"en"> =
</SPAN></P>

<P ALIGN=3DLEFT><SPAN LANG=3D"en-us"></SPAN></P>

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From Azgrandma2@juno.com  Fri Jun 20 22:08:29 2003
From: Azgrandma2@juno.com (Azgrandma2@juno.com)
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 15:08:29 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306202208.h5KM8Tfv003229@Ag.arizona.edu>

I have a pointsetter plant , that has been planted outside facing East. Last year it did beautiful, this year it had a lot of white flies, which seem to be gone now but the plant looks like it may be dying. I fed it miracle grow, any suggestions? Thanks


From cgglen@msn.com  Sat Jun 21 16:56:33 2003
From: cgglen@msn.com (cgglen@msn.com)
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 09:56:33 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306211656.h5LGuXWQ028173@Ag.arizona.edu>

Hi!

I recently planted a prickly pear-like plant called ficus....(?). It has oval pads, but no visible stickers. 

I planted in a sunny area without connecting it to our drip system and it was doing fine until the temperatures climbed over 100 degrees. The new leaves it had grown since planting started looking wrinkled, so assuming it needed some water I deep-watered it twice. Now some of the leaves have turned yellow and one arm of the plant actually is bent over. 

Is a location that provides sunshine all day the wrong choice, should I include it in my drip system or should I have ignored the wrinkled leaves and not watered it at all?

I appreciate your advice on this!

Connie


From IAMRIGEL@NETSCAPE.NET  Sun Jun 22 00:10:38 2003
From: IAMRIGEL@NETSCAPE.NET (IAMRIGEL@NETSCAPE.NET)
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 17:10:38 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306220010.h5M0AcWQ001053@Ag.arizona.edu>

I have a Bermuda Grass lawn and I was wondering if you had any pictures of diffrent Bermuda grasses that you could send to me so that I could tell what spesific type of Bermuda grass I have on my lawn. I was also wondering if you could tell me the name of a reputable grass seed distributor in town that could supply me with that grass. Thankyou.


From catempleton@msn.com  Sun Jun 22 20:33:56 2003
From: catempleton@msn.com (catempleton@msn.com)
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 13:33:56 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306222033.h5MKXuWQ017458@Ag.arizona.edu>

Planted a sisso tree in yard. The tree was removed as roots were going through yard and pushing up sidewalk. Stump was ground and treated and since removed. There are roots throughout the yard that are sprouting and large roots under patio and sidewalk. How can we kill the roots so we do not have problems in the future?


From MTNKIDZ@aol.com  Mon Jun 23 13:22:07 2003
From: MTNKIDZ@aol.com (MTNKIDZ@aol.com)
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 09:22:07 EDT
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hibiscus health
Message-ID: <1ed.bae01f1.2c2858ff@aol.com>

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Our Hibiscus is blooming beautifully but continues to get many yellow leaves. 
 What are we doing wrong?  When is it best to prune them back here in 
Arizona? 

Thank you.

Marian

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<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=3D3 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=
=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">Our Hibiscus is blooming beautifully but continues to=20=
get many yellow leaves.&nbsp; What are we doing wrong?&nbsp; When is it best=
 to prune them back here in Arizona? <BR>
<BR>
Thank you.<BR>
<BR>
Marian</FONT></HTML>

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From gtodell@earthlink.net  Sun Jun 22 21:24:59 2003
From: gtodell@earthlink.net (Toby Odell)
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 13:24:59 -0800
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plants I need to identify
Message-ID: <NEBBLLOIALNGJACBMGIKCEEJHOAA.gtodell@earthlink.net>

Hi,

There are a number of plants in my yard that I need help identifying so that
I can water them appropriately.  I have attached a link here to a page with
photos I have taken of each plant.

http://home.earthlink.net/~gtodell/Plants/Plants1.htm.

The problem I have (other than not knowing exactly what each plant is!) is
that I 2 zones of drip irrigation - front and back - and I am afraid that
some of the water requirements are vastly different for plants that are in
the same zone!

Thanks very much in advance for any help !

Toby




From jaufder@gblx.net  Mon Jun 23 15:34:39 2003
From: jaufder@gblx.net (Jon P. Aufderheide)
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 08:34:39 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hibiscus health
In-Reply-To: <1ed.bae01f1.2c2858ff@aol.com>
Message-ID: <002501c3399c$f8cb72b0$26ba0244@violet>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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I have the same issue.  I have a hibiscus "tree" we purchased from Moon
Valley that has dozens of new blooms every day.  But I also pick off a half
dozen yellowed/brown leaves every day.
 
>From what I can tell, it's all of the older leaves that are falling off, as
I can see little baby leaves growing at the base of the leaves I remove.
I've been fertilizing and watering regularly, so I'm hoping this is just a
normal transition for the shrub.  Any one else have an opinion?
 
jpa
 
 

-----Original Message-----
From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu
[mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu] On Behalf Of MTNKIDZ@aol.com
Sent: Monday, June 23, 2003 6:22 AM
To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hibiscus health


Our Hibiscus is blooming beautifully but continues to get many yellow
leaves.  What are we doing wrong?  When is it best to prune them back here
in Arizona? 

Thank you.

Marian 


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<DIV><SPAN class=3D640343215-23062003><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =
size=3D2>I have=20
the same issue.&nbsp; I have a hibiscus "tree" we purchased from Moon =
Valley=20
that has dozens of new blooms every day.&nbsp; But I also pick off a =
half dozen=20
yellowed/brown leaves every day.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D640343215-23062003><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =

size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D640343215-23062003><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =
size=3D2>From=20
what I can tell, it's all of the older leaves that are falling off, as I =
can see=20
little baby leaves growing at the base of the leaves I remove.&nbsp; =
I've been=20
fertilizing and watering regularly, so I'm hoping this is just a normal=20
transition for the shrub.&nbsp; Any one else have an=20
opinion?</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D640343215-23062003><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =

size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D640343215-23062003><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =

size=3D2>jpa</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D640343215-23062003><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =

size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D640343215-23062003></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px =
solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV class=3DOutlookMessageHeader lang=3Den-us dir=3Dltr =
align=3Dleft><FONT=20
  face=3DTahoma size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B>=20
  arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu =
[mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]=20
  <B>On Behalf Of </B>MTNKIDZ@aol.com<BR><B>Sent:</B> Monday, June 23, =
2003 6:22=20
  AM<BR><B>To:</B> Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu<BR><B>Subject:</B>=20
  [Arid_gardener] Hibiscus health<BR><BR></FONT></DIV><FONT=20
  face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D3 =
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF">Our=20
  Hibiscus is blooming beautifully but continues to get many yellow=20
  leaves.&nbsp; What are we doing wrong?&nbsp; When is it best to prune =
them=20
  back here in Arizona? <BR><BR>Thank you.<BR><BR>Marian</FONT>=20
</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From jaufder@gblx.net  Mon Jun 23 15:37:30 2003
From: jaufder@gblx.net (Jon P. Aufderheide)
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 08:37:30 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plants I need to identify
In-Reply-To: <NEBBLLOIALNGJACBMGIKCEEJHOAA.gtodell@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <002a01c3399d$5bb6c820$26ba0244@violet>

Plant2:  Hibiscus
Plant3:  Boxwood Beauty
Plant5:  Euonymous (99% certain)
Plant6:  Ruellia
Plant7:  Cape Honeysuckle


I'll leave the watering recommendations to someone with a sunset WG book
handy.

jpa



> -----Original Message-----
> From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu 
> [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu] On Behalf Of Toby Odell
> Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2003 2:25 PM
> To: Arid Gardner
> Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plants I need to identify
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> There are a number of plants in my yard that I need help 
> identifying so that I can water them appropriately.  I have 
> attached a link here to a page with photos I have taken of each plant.
> 
http://home.earthlink.net/~gtodell/Plants/Plants1.htm.

The problem I have (other than not knowing exactly what each plant is!) is
that I 2 zones of drip irrigation - front and back - and I am afraid that
some of the water requirements are vastly different for plants that are in
the same zone!

Thanks very much in advance for any help !

Toby



_______________________________________________
Arid_gardener mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener


From RicheyGLR@aol.com  Mon Jun 23 18:44:04 2003
From: RicheyGLR@aol.com (RicheyGLR@aol.com)
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 14:44:04 EDT
Subject: [Arid_gardener] pruning of "Mexican bird of paridise"
Message-ID: <148.145c6b1d.2c28a474@aol.com>

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I have one bush and it is about 5 ft high. I pruned it last year by cutting 
it back to about 3 ft. It came back with many more blooms. But I would like it 
more bushier and not so high.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=3D4 FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" FACE=
=3D"Arial" LANG=3D"0">I have one bush and it is about 5 ft high. I pruned it=
 last year by cutting it back to about 3 ft. It came back with many more blo=
oms. But I would like it more bushier and not so high.</FONT></HTML>

--part1_148.145c6b1d.2c28a474_boundary--

From tonyquilty1@eircom.net  Mon Jun 23 19:14:38 2003
From: tonyquilty1@eircom.net ( Tony Quilty)
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 20:14:38 +0100
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Soil cracking
Message-ID: <000601c339bb$bda74730$70307dc2@homec0ijc5evqi>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Hi,

I've just sown a new lawn recently and parts of the soil is beginning to =
crack and there is no grass growing. The soil is not fantastic but it's =
ok. I live in a country where rain is plentiful. What I need to know is =
can I overcome this problem by adding some new "Top soil" over the =
ground where the cracks are and add some fresh grass seed.

Regards

 Tony.....

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2726.2500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Hi,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>I've just sown a new lawn recently and parts of =
the soil=20
is beginning to crack and there is no grass growing. The soil is not =
fantastic=20
but it's ok. I live in a country where rain is plentiful. What I need to =
know is=20
can I overcome this problem by adding some new "Top soil" over the =
ground where=20
the cracks are and add some fresh grass seed.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Regards</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>&nbsp;Tony.....</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From Geoffrey.Brady@apollogrp.edu  Mon Jun 23 19:55:14 2003
From: Geoffrey.Brady@apollogrp.edu (Geoff Brady)
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 12:55:14 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Reputable nursery
Message-ID: <670193290CCBD511BA6600B0D079B7FD022B78FE@usvphxex1.apollogrp.edu>

This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

------_=_NextPart_001_01C339C1.5CA8E5F0
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Hi,

I am about ready to shop for my bushes and trees for my yard.  Last time I
did this, I didn't feel I got the deal that I thought I was getting.  I
won't name any names, but it feels like some of the large nurseries around
the phoenix area pull a "bait and switch" with their ads in the papers.

I wanted to see if anyone had any feedback or recommendations pertaining to
a good nursery.

Thanks,

Geoff



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<META HTTP-EQUIV=3D"Content-Type" CONTENT=3D"text/html; =
charset=3DUS-ASCII">
<META NAME=3D"Generator" CONTENT=3D"MS Exchange Server version =
5.5.2656.13">
<TITLE>Reputable nursery</TITLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">Hi,</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">I am about ready to shop for my bushes =
and trees for my yard.&nbsp; Last time I did this, I didn't feel I got =
the deal that I thought I was getting.&nbsp; I won't name any names, =
but it feels like some of the large nurseries around the phoenix area =
pull a &quot;bait and switch&quot; with their ads in the =
papers.</FONT></P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">I wanted to see if anyone had any =
feedback or recommendations pertaining to a good nursery.</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">Thanks,</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">Geoff</FONT>
</P>
<BR>

</BODY>
</HTML>
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From jaufder@gblx.net  Mon Jun 23 20:29:35 2003
From: jaufder@gblx.net (Jon P. Aufderheide)
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 13:29:35 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Reputable nursery
In-Reply-To: <670193290CCBD511BA6600B0D079B7FD022B78FE@usvphxex1.apollogrp.edu>
Message-ID: <002801c339c6$29b1c590$26ba0244@violet>

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Moon Valley seemed to treat us very well.  They didn't change around any of
the pricing in their advertising--they stuck to what the flyer I had in had
said.  They will also allow you to swap out certain things...like a vine is
4/3 of a 5 Gallon shrub.  3 5-gallon shrub was a 15gallon tree, etc.  
 
They deliver, plant, and guarantee plants/trees/shrubs for 90 days from the
date of planting.
 
I've only lost a couple things from my orders and they replaced them.
 
jpa
 
 

-----Original Message-----
From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu
[mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu] On Behalf Of Geoff Brady
Sent: Monday, June 23, 2003 12:55 PM
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Reputable nursery



Hi, 

I am about ready to shop for my bushes and trees for my yard.  Last time I
did this, I didn't feel I got the deal that I thought I was getting.  I
won't name any names, but it feels like some of the large nurseries around
the phoenix area pull a "bait and switch" with their ads in the papers.

I wanted to see if anyone had any feedback or recommendations pertaining to
a good nursery. 

Thanks, 

Geoff 



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<HTML><HEAD>
<META HTTP-EQUIV=3D"Content-Type" CONTENT=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dus-ascii">
<TITLE>Message</TITLE>

<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1170" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D677542720-23062003><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =
size=3D2>Moon=20
Valley seemed to treat us very well.&nbsp; They didn't change around any =
of the=20
pricing in their advertising--they stuck to what the flyer I had in had=20
said.&nbsp; They will also allow you to swap out certain things...like a =
vine is=20
4/3 of a 5 Gallon shrub.&nbsp; 3 5-gallon shrub was a 15gallon tree, =
etc.&nbsp;=20
</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D677542720-23062003><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =

size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D677542720-23062003><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =
size=3D2>They=20
deliver, plant, and guarantee plants/trees/shrubs for 90 days from the =
date of=20
planting.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D677542720-23062003><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =

size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D677542720-23062003><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =
size=3D2>I've=20
only lost a couple things from my orders and they replaced=20
them.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D677542720-23062003><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =

size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D677542720-23062003><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =

size=3D2>jpa</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D677542720-23062003><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff =

size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D677542720-23062003></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px =
solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV></DIV>
  <DIV class=3DOutlookMessageHeader lang=3Den-us dir=3Dltr =
align=3Dleft><FONT=20
  face=3DTahoma size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B>=20
  arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu =
[mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]=20
  <B>On Behalf Of </B>Geoff Brady<BR><B>Sent:</B> Monday, June 23, 2003 =
12:55=20
  PM<BR><B>To:</B> arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu<BR><B>Subject:</B>=20
  [Arid_gardener] Reputable nursery<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>
  <P><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi,</FONT> </P>
  <P><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I am about ready to shop for my bushes =
and trees=20
  for my yard.&nbsp; Last time I did this, I didn't feel I got the deal =
that I=20
  thought I was getting.&nbsp; I won't name any names, but it feels like =
some of=20
  the large nurseries around the phoenix area pull a "bait and switch" =
with=20
  their ads in the papers.</FONT></P>
  <P><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I wanted to see if anyone had any =
feedback or=20
  recommendations pertaining to a good nursery.</FONT> </P>
  <P><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thanks,</FONT> </P>
  <P><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Geoff</FONT> =
</P><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From rodmmcq6@highstream.net  Mon Jun 23 22:06:46 2003
From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net)
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 15:06:46 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Reputable nursery
Message-ID: <002701c339d3$be03ab20$af2c0a3f@ibmbna6040>

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Reputable nurseryGeoff,
I live in the east valley so I'll list the nurseries I've done business =
with sucessfully:
Berridge Nursery, Harper's Nursery, Gardeners World, A and P Nursery and =
 Baker's Nursery. If you live on the west side there will be some one =
with experience there.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
-----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Brady <Geoffrey.Brady@apollogrp.edu>
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Date: Monday, June 23, 2003 1:11 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Reputable nursery


  Hi,=20

  I am about ready to shop for my bushes and trees for my yard.  Last =
time I did this, I didn't feel I got the deal that I thought I was =
getting.  I won't name any names, but it feels like some of the large =
nurseries around the phoenix area pull a "bait and switch" with their =
ads in the papers.

  I wanted to see if anyone had any feedback or recommendations =
pertaining to a good nursery.=20

  Thanks,=20

  Geoff=20




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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD><TITLE>Reputable nursery</TITLE>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dwindows-1252">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2600.0" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Geoff,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I live in the east valley so I'll list the =
nurseries&nbsp;I've=20
done business with sucessfully:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Berridge Nursery, Harper's Nursery, Gardeners World, =
A and P=20
Nursery and &nbsp;Baker's Nursery. If you live on the west side there =
will be=20
some one with experience there.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Good luck.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Rod McKusick</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Master Gardener</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial><FONT size=3D2><B>-----Original =
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
</B>Geoff Brady &lt;</FONT><A =
href=3D"mailto:Geoffrey.Brady@apollogrp.edu"><FONT=20
size=3D2>Geoffrey.Brady@apollogrp.edu</FONT></A><FONT =
size=3D2>&gt;<BR><B>To:=20
</B></FONT><A href=3D"mailto:arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu"><FONT=20
size=3D2>arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu</FONT></A><FONT size=3D2> =
&lt;</FONT><A=20
href=3D"mailto:arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu"><FONT=20
size=3D2>arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu</FONT></A><FONT =
size=3D2>&gt;<BR><B>Date:=20
</B>Monday, June 23, 2003 1:11 PM<BR><B>Subject: </B>[Arid_gardener] =
Reputable=20
nursery<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px =
solid"></FONT>
  <P><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi,</FONT> </P>
  <P><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I am about ready to shop for my bushes =
and trees=20
  for my yard.&nbsp; Last time I did this, I didn't feel I got the deal =
that I=20
  thought I was getting.&nbsp; I won't name any names, but it feels like =
some of=20
  the large nurseries around the phoenix area pull a "bait and switch" =
with=20
  their ads in the papers.</FONT></P>
  <P><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I wanted to see if anyone had any =
feedback or=20
  recommendations pertaining to a good nursery.</FONT> </P>
  <P><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thanks,</FONT> </P>
  <P><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Geoff</FONT> =
</P><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From watsontl@mindspring.com  Tue Jun 24 01:03:50 2003
From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson)
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 18:03:50 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hibiscus health
References: <002501c3399c$f8cb72b0$26ba0244@violet>
Message-ID: <002a01c339ec$7a13aa00$6730b83f@S0029317241>

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MessageI have several established shrubs of various sorts that do this, =
and as far as I can tell they are merely eliminating old leaves that =
have given their all and are worn out.   I have also transplanted shrubs =
and seen a period follow that involves a steady loss of older leaves, =
without any serious problems developing.   As long as the plants are =
blooming normally and produce new leaves of a normal, healthy color, and =
as long as the leaf yellowing is sporadic, you probably don't have a =
problem.   If a large number of older leaves go yellow on you while new =
growth appears normal, you may need to add nitrogen (the plant is =
pulling nutrients out of older leaves to fuel new growth).

Sorry, never needed to prune a hibiscus, so I don't know what they need =
in this regard.

Tom

----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Jon P. Aufderheide=20
  To: MTNKIDZ@aol.com ; Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20
  Sent: Monday, June 23, 2003 8:34 AM
  Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] Hibiscus health


  I have the same issue.  I have a hibiscus "tree" we purchased from =
Moon Valley that has dozens of new blooms every day.  But I also pick =
off a half dozen yellowed/brown leaves every day.

  From what I can tell, it's all of the older leaves that are falling =
off, as I can see little baby leaves growing at the base of the leaves I =
remove.  I've been fertilizing and watering regularly, so I'm hoping =
this is just a normal transition for the shrub.  Any one else have an =
opinion?

  jpa


    -----Original Message-----
    From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu =
[mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu] On Behalf Of MTNKIDZ@aol.com
    Sent: Monday, June 23, 2003 6:22 AM
    To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
    Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hibiscus health


    Our Hibiscus is blooming beautifully but continues to get many =
yellow leaves.  What are we doing wrong?  When is it best to prune them =
back here in Arizona?=20

    Thank you.

    Marian 
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<HTML><HEAD><TITLE>Message</TITLE>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1170" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I have several established shrubs of =
various sorts=20
that do this, and as far as I can tell they are merely&nbsp;eliminating =
old=20
leaves that have given their all and are worn out.&nbsp;&nbsp; I have =
also=20
transplanted shrubs and seen a period follow that involves a steady loss =
of=20
older leaves, without any serious problems developing.&nbsp;&nbsp; As =
long as=20
the plants are&nbsp;blooming normally and produce new leaves of a =
normal,=20
healthy color, and as long as the leaf yellowing is sporadic, you =
probably don't=20
have a problem.&nbsp;&nbsp; If a large number of older leaves go yellow =
on you=20
while new growth appears normal, you may need to add nitrogen (the plant =
is=20
pulling nutrients out of older leaves to fuel new growth).</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Sorry, never needed to prune a =
hibiscus, so I don't=20
know what they need in this regard.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Tom</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3Djaufder@gblx.net href=3D"mailto:jaufder@gblx.net">Jon P.=20
  Aufderheide</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=3DMTNKIDZ@aol.com=20
  href=3D"mailto:MTNKIDZ@aol.com">MTNKIDZ@aol.com</A> ; <A=20
  title=3DArid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20
  =
href=3D"mailto:Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu">Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=
</A>=20
  </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, June 23, 2003 =
8:34 AM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> RE: [Arid_gardener] =
Hibiscus=20
  health</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV><SPAN class=3D640343215-23062003><FONT face=3DArial =
color=3D#0000ff size=3D2>I=20
  have the same issue.&nbsp; I have a hibiscus "tree" we purchased from =
Moon=20
  Valley that has dozens of new blooms every day.&nbsp; But I also pick =
off a=20
  half dozen yellowed/brown leaves every day.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
  <DIV><SPAN class=3D640343215-23062003><FONT face=3DArial =
color=3D#0000ff=20
  size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><SPAN class=3D640343215-23062003><FONT face=3DArial =
color=3D#0000ff size=3D2>From=20
  what I can tell, it's all of the older leaves that are falling off, as =
I can=20
  see little baby leaves growing at the base of the leaves I =
remove.&nbsp; I've=20
  been fertilizing and watering regularly, so I'm hoping this is just a =
normal=20
  transition for the shrub.&nbsp; Any one else have an=20
  opinion?</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
  <DIV><SPAN class=3D640343215-23062003><FONT face=3DArial =
color=3D#0000ff=20
  size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><SPAN class=3D640343215-23062003><FONT face=3DArial =
color=3D#0000ff=20
  size=3D2>jpa</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
  <DIV><SPAN class=3D640343215-23062003><FONT face=3DArial =
color=3D#0000ff=20
  size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><SPAN class=3D640343215-23062003></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <BLOCKQUOTE=20
  style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px =
solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
    <DIV></DIV>
    <DIV class=3DOutlookMessageHeader lang=3Den-us dir=3Dltr =
align=3Dleft><FONT=20
    face=3DTahoma size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B>=20
    arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu=20
    [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu] <B>On Behalf Of=20
    </B>MTNKIDZ@aol.com<BR><B>Sent:</B> Monday, June 23, 2003 6:22=20
    AM<BR><B>To:</B> Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu<BR><B>Subject:</B>=20
    [Arid_gardener] Hibiscus health<BR><BR></FONT></DIV><FONT=20
    face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D3 =
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF">Our=20
    Hibiscus is blooming beautifully but continues to get many yellow=20
    leaves.&nbsp; What are we doing wrong?&nbsp; When is it best to =
prune them=20
    back here in Arizona? <BR><BR>Thank you.<BR><BR>Marian</FONT>=20
  </FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0027_01C339B1.CC9928D0--



From watsontl@mindspring.com  Tue Jun 24 01:12:52 2003
From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson)
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 18:12:52 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plants I need to identify
References: <002a01c3399d$5bb6c820$26ba0244@violet>
Message-ID: <003301c339ed$bd37d0d0$6730b83f@S0029317241>

Plant 1 is an asparagus fern

I agree with Jon on 2,3,5,6, &7

Plant 8 does look like a sage, but the picture isn't clear enough for me to
be sure which one.

If you've ever seen plant 9 produce small, fragrent, yellow puff-ball
flowers, it's Acacia redolens.

(Toby, if you don't have a copy of the Sunset Western Garden Book mentioned
by Jon, you're missing out!)

Tom

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jon P. Aufderheide" <jaufder@gblx.net>
To: "'Toby Odell'" <gtodell@earthlink.net>; "'Arid Gardner'"
<arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Sent: Monday, June 23, 2003 8:37 AM
Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] Plants I need to identify


> Plant2:  Hibiscus
> Plant3:  Boxwood Beauty
> Plant5:  Euonymous (99% certain)
> Plant6:  Ruellia
> Plant7:  Cape Honeysuckle
>
>
> I'll leave the watering recommendations to someone with a sunset WG book
> handy.
>
> jpa
>
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu
> > [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu] On Behalf Of Toby Odell
> > Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2003 2:25 PM
> > To: Arid Gardner
> > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plants I need to identify
> >
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > There are a number of plants in my yard that I need help
> > identifying so that I can water them appropriately.  I have
> > attached a link here to a page with photos I have taken of each plant.
> >
> http://home.earthlink.net/~gtodell/Plants/Plants1.htm.
>
> The problem I have (other than not knowing exactly what each plant is!) is
> that I 2 zones of drip irrigation - front and back - and I am afraid that
> some of the water requirements are vastly different for plants that are in
> the same zone!
>
> Thanks very much in advance for any help !
>
> Toby
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>



From brostevecrawford@w3az.net  Tue Jun 24 04:40:00 2003
From: brostevecrawford@w3az.net (brostevecrawford@w3az.net)
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 21:40:00 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306240440.h5O4e0WQ029797@Ag.arizona.edu>

We are going to be leaving the end of July for a few weeks, and I was
wondering if watering my house plants then putting them in plastic bags
would be a good way to keep them alive while I am gone?  I had read this
on a site from Georgia and since I am new to Arizona,  I do not know if
this works here.  Also, should I use a certain color of plastic bag?  Do
you think black bags will "hurt" them?  Thank you so much for your help!!! 
> T. Crawford


From Pauline Marx" <plantperson@earthlink.net  Tue Jun 24 17:51:55 2003
From: Pauline Marx" <plantperson@earthlink.net (Pauline Marx)
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 10:51:55 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Houseplant Vacation
Message-ID: <002e01c33a79$4e4b08e0$68114bab@z3j2h2>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_002B_01C33A3E.A0DFA2E0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

The plastic bag method is simple and doesn't call for standing water.  =
But you should save clear dry-cleaning bags.  Here's how to protect your =
small and medium sized plants:
1. Water each pot.=20
   2.  Sink tall, thin sticks into the soil around the perimeter of the =
pot - three of four will usually suffice.  The sticks keep the plastic =
up and away from the foliage.  Rot is likely to occur if plant foliage =
comes in contact with the plastic.
3.  Cover your plant with a plastic bag.
4.  Secure the bag lightly to the rim of the pot using rubber bands on =
the small pots. =20

Covering the pot with plastic and then closing it off holds in moisture, =
but it also prevents air circulation around the foliage. Still air =
allows for the growth of fungus and rot could begin. =20
Simply drape the plastic bag over the sticks and let it hang loosly, =
enough air should get in to prevent fungus and rot to develop.

Pauline Marx, Master Gardener, Maricopa County Arizona and lover of =
houseplants!
------=_NextPart_000_002B_01C33A3E.A0DFA2E0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1170" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>The plastic bag method is simple and =
doesn't call=20
for standing water.&nbsp; But you should save clear dry-cleaning =
bags.&nbsp;=20
Here's how to protect your small and medium sized plants:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>1. Water each pot.&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp; 2.&nbsp; Sink tall, thin =
sticks into=20
the soil around the perimeter of the pot - three of four will usually=20
suffice.&nbsp; The sticks keep the plastic up and away from the =
foliage.&nbsp;=20
Rot is likely to occur if plant foliage comes in contact with the=20
plastic.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>3.&nbsp; Cover your plant with a =
plastic=20
bag.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>4.&nbsp; Secure the bag lightly to the =
rim of the=20
pot using rubber bands on the small pots.&nbsp;&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Covering the pot with plastic and then =
closing it=20
off holds in moisture, but it also prevents air circulation around the =
foliage.=20
Still air allows for the growth of fungus and rot could =
begin.</FONT><FONT=20
face=3DArial size=3D2>&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Simply drape the plastic bag over the =
sticks and=20
let it hang loosly, enough air should get in to prevent fungus and rot =
to=20
develop.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Pauline Marx, Master Gardener, Maricopa =
County=20
Arizona and lover of houseplants!</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_002B_01C33A3E.A0DFA2E0--



From kalientekitty@yahoo.com  Tue Jun 24 04:03:34 2003
From: kalientekitty@yahoo.com (kalientekitty@yahoo.com)
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 21:03:34 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306240403.h5O43YWQ026358@Ag.arizona.edu>

My 7-year old son discovered a pair of insects seemingly mating on our pomegranate tree this evening. We are having a very diffucult time identifying this insect. We have consulted our National Audubon Society Field Guide to insects, but had no luck. We have searched our encyclopedia (on CD rom of course, who has the books anymore?) and again are still at a loss. I have searched most of the evening the internet and still cannot identify this insect. I assume that these insects are common on pomegranate trees as there were several of these insects on the fruit. I appreciate your time and am looking forward to some direction to answer the mystery: what kind of bugs are mating on our pomegranate trees. Thanks in advance for your guidance. 
Michele Katz


From DeanH48215@aol.com  Tue Jun 24 19:56:32 2003
From: DeanH48215@aol.com (DeanH48215@aol.com)
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 12:56:32 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306241956.h5OJuWWQ017444@Ag.arizona.edu>

When do you prune Hibiscus bushes and how much?


From nfk54401@cox.net  Tue Jun 24 20:46:29 2003
From: nfk54401@cox.net (Norma Kafer)
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 13:46:29 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
References: <200306240403.h5O43YWQ026358@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <001e01c33a91$affcb8f0$c5fa0344@gpwa.com>

Greetings,

You didn't say where you are located.  If you are in the Phoenix area you
may bring your sample of insects to the UofA Extension office located at
4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix.  If you live in another county, ask your
extension service there.  The Phoenix extension office is open 8-5 and you
will be asked to fill out a form.  You may also bring the insects in Fri.
morning at 8 when the diagnostic class meets.  There you can ask questions
and get answers, if we are unable to answer you, we will send the insect to
Tucson for a positive ID  This Fri. the 28th we have an Entomologist from
Tucson to give a lecture at 9 am on West Nile Virus.  I'm sure she would be
able to ID your insect if the diagnostic class can't.  Or you could send
pictures to the same address if you are unable to come to the office.

Norma Kafer
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <kalientekitty@yahoo.com>
To: <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Sent: Monday, June 23, 2003 9:03 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page


> My 7-year old son discovered a pair of insects seemingly mating on our
pomegranate tree this evening. We are having a very diffucult time
identifying this insect. We have consulted our National Audubon Society
Field Guide to insects, but had no luck. We have searched our encyclopedia
(on CD rom of course, who has the books anymore?) and again are still at a
loss. I have searched most of the evening the internet and still cannot
identify this insect. I assume that these insects are common on pomegranate
trees as there were several of these insects on the fruit. I appreciate your
time and am looking forward to some direction to answer the mystery: what
kind of bugs are mating on our pomegranate trees. Thanks in advance for your
guidance.
> Michele Katz
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener


From aecmhuffman527@msn.com  Wed Jun 25 01:38:54 2003
From: aecmhuffman527@msn.com (aecmhuffman527@msn.com)
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 18:38:54 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306250138.h5P1csWQ017941@Ag.arizona.edu>

> Greetings,
> I have a "Brown Turkey" Fig Tree, and wonder what I can do for it. All of the leaves are turning yellow, not just the bottom branches. The tree is at least twenty to twenty five years old and is taller than my roof. Several years ago, fifteen or more years, the whole main trunk died out and the lower branches took off and the tree has done pretty well most years, some years very well, for fruit.
> Regards,
> Carolyn Huffman
>Tucson, AZ


From geodrum@att.net  Wed Jun 25 02:18:19 2003
From: geodrum@att.net (George D)
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 19:18:19 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
References: <200306240403.h5O43YWQ026358@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <3EF9066B.725A97B0@att.net>


kalientekitty@yahoo.com wrote:
> 
> My 7-year old son discovered a pair of insects seemingly mating on our pomegranate tree this evening. We are having a very diffucult time identifying this insect. We have consulted our National Audubon Society Field Guide to insects, but had no luck. We have searched our encyclopedia (on CD rom of course, who has the books anymore?) and again are still at a loss. I have searched most of the evening the internet and still cannot identify this insect. I assume that these insects are common on pomegranate trees as there were several of these insects on the fruit. I appreciate your time and am looking forward to some direction to answer the mystery: what kind of bugs are mating on our pomegranate trees. Thanks in advance for your guidance.
> Michele Katz
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener

If it is the same type of bug that gets to my tree it is probably the Web Footed Leafhopper.

Look and see if the rear feet are built somewhat like a ducks.
-- 
George D
Phoenix, AZ

AAA, AARP, ANA, NRA, RCC ?+1, PIA, PIAAZ, GATF 85006-3032-18-4

 The reward for a good deed is to have done it.

Please use this address to mail me. Or remove the arizona in the link.
Remember there is no Arizona.
geodrum@att.net

ALL emails incoming and outgoing are run thru Norton and AVG anti virus.


From greggo6969@aol.com  Wed Jun 25 14:57:31 2003
From: greggo6969@aol.com (greggo6969@aol.com)
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 07:57:31 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306251457.h5PEvVWQ019781@Ag.arizona.edu>

I have sodded my back yard with St. Augustine. Even though it's not a good sod for our climate, I am having good results with it.  However, this year I am getting bermuda cropping in and would like to control it.  Is there ANY product that would feed the St. Augustine and at the same time deter the growth of the bermuda?


From rodmmcq6@highstream.net  Wed Jun 25 22:10:38 2003
From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net)
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 15:10:38 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bermuda Grass growing in a St Augustine lawn.
Message-ID: <001201c33b66$9d6bda60$89a9db43@ibmbna6040>

Sorry but since bermuda and St Augustine turf are the same type of plant a
chemical that will kill one will kill the other.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
-----Original Message-----
From: greggo6969@aol.com <greggo6969@aol.com>
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Date: Wednesday, June 25, 2003 8:15 AM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page


>I have sodded my back yard with St. Augustine. Even though it's not a good
sod for our climate, I am having good results with it.  However, this year I
am getting bermuda cropping in and would like to control it.  Is there ANY
product that would feed the St. Augustine and at the same time deter the
growth of the bermuda?
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>


From gdtym@cox.net  Thu Jun 26 01:23:56 2003
From: gdtym@cox.net (gdtym@cox.net)
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 18:23:56 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306260123.h5Q1NuWQ017503@Ag.arizona.edu>

Just purchased an Easter cactus.  The instructions say that it can be kept indoors or outside if in a shady spot.  I have a friend here in Glendale who keeps hers out most of the yer under a tree in a shady spot.  Can't ask her because she is on vacation in FL...is it OK to keep it outside in the shade on my back patio right now or do I need to keep it indoors until cooler season?


From GardenGuy@gardenerscorner.com  Thu Jun 26 03:57:46 2003
From: GardenGuy@gardenerscorner.com (GardenerGuy@gardenerscorner.com)
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 20:57:46 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
References: <200306260123.h5Q1NuWQ017503@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <3EFA6F3A.2030203@gardenerscorner.com>

Hi gdtym,

I can only tell you my experience.  For years I have tried to grow them 
outside through the summer with no luck.  It seems like once you start 
hitting those 110+ days, they have degraded fast for me. This year I 
kept it outside until it started getting above 95.  Now I have it inside 
in a bright window and it seems quite content there, and is growing.  I 
do not water it again until the soil is very dry to the touch.  I will 
probably move it outside again once it cools down, and until it sets 
bud, then I will bring it in to enjoy.  Lets hope it works out that way, 
huh?  I would be interested in hearing if anyone has kept it alive 
outside too.  For I have tried the last several years to keep them 
alive, outside through the summer, in the shade, after purchase at 
easter with no luck.  This year, since I moved the cactus indoors for 
the summer, it is doing far, far better.  I've even had a few blooms on 
it since I moved it indoors!

-- 
Chat with you later...
Alan
-----
Chandler, Arizona        Sunset Zone: 13
http://www.GardenersCorner.com
-----
Alan Zelhart       
GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com
Gardens Co-listowner
http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html
-----
 "On the other hand, you have different fingers"



gdtym@cox.net wrote:

>Just purchased an Easter cactus.  The instructions say that it can be kept indoors or outside if in a shady spot.  I have a friend here in Glendale who keeps hers out most of the yer under a tree in a shady spot.  Can't ask her because she is on vacation in FL...is it OK to keep it outside in the shade on my back patio right now or do I need to keep it indoors until cooler season?
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>
>
>
>  
>




From gdtym@cox.net  Thu Jun 26 05:23:06 2003
From: gdtym@cox.net (Christine)
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 22:23:06 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
References: <200306260123.h5Q1NuWQ017503@Ag.arizona.edu> <3EFA6F3A.2030203@gardenerscorner.com>
Message-ID: <003a01c33ba3$06650e60$999c6d44@ph.cox.net>

Dear Alan:  Thanks so much for the fast reply...I will bring it in ASAP and,
hopefully, no damage has been done.

Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "GardenerGuy@gardenerscorner.com" <GardenGuy@gardenerscorner.com>
To: <gdtym@cox.net>
Cc: <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2003 8:57 PM
Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page


> Hi gdtym,
>
> I can only tell you my experience.  For years I have tried to grow them
> outside through the summer with no luck.  It seems like once you start
> hitting those 110+ days, they have degraded fast for me. This year I
> kept it outside until it started getting above 95.  Now I have it inside
> in a bright window and it seems quite content there, and is growing.  I
> do not water it again until the soil is very dry to the touch.  I will
> probably move it outside again once it cools down, and until it sets
> bud, then I will bring it in to enjoy.  Lets hope it works out that way,
> huh?  I would be interested in hearing if anyone has kept it alive
> outside too.  For I have tried the last several years to keep them
> alive, outside through the summer, in the shade, after purchase at
> easter with no luck.  This year, since I moved the cactus indoors for
> the summer, it is doing far, far better.  I've even had a few blooms on
> it since I moved it indoors!
>
> --
> Chat with you later...
> Alan
> -----
> Chandler, Arizona        Sunset Zone: 13
> http://www.GardenersCorner.com
> -----
> Alan Zelhart
> GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com
> Gardens Co-listowner
> http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html
> -----
>  "On the other hand, you have different fingers"
>
>
>
> gdtym@cox.net wrote:
>
> >Just purchased an Easter cactus.  The instructions say that it can be
kept indoors or outside if in a shady spot.  I have a friend here in
Glendale who keeps hers out most of the yer under a tree in a shady spot.
Can't ask her because she is on vacation in FL...is it OK to keep it outside
in the shade on my back patio right now or do I need to keep it indoors
until cooler season?
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >Arid_gardener mailing list
> >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>


From walktall@deru.com  Thu Jun 26 05:29:25 2003
From: walktall@deru.com (walktall)
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 22:29:25 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pomegranate tree Insect ID possibility
Message-ID: <000801c33ba3$ecacc700$0200a8c0@DJ7PPD21>

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Leaf-footed bugs are common on pomegranates, I've also had them infest =
my
tomatoes.  Though they may not eat much, once they feed on a fruit, they
open up a window for bacteria and rot.  Immature bugs look quite =
different
than the pics in links below, they're smaller, wingless and orange-red, =
and
I just pick them off.  Once they mature, they're harder to get rid of.

=20

http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/insects/leaffootedplantbug.html

http://milwaukee.uwex.edu/urbanag/bugnet2/indoors/infloor/leaffoot/leaffo=
ot.
html

http://www.ci.austin.tx.us/preserves/fotobug2.htm

http://ag.arizona.edu/yavapai/anr/hort/byg/archive/leaffootedbug.html

http://www.globalgourmet.com/food/special/creepy/bugpizza.html  (!!??!!)

=20

Good luck! =20

=20

Donna Walkuski


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<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>Leaf-footed bugs are common on pomegranates, =
I&#8217;ve also
had them infest my tomatoes.&nbsp; Though they may not eat much, once =
they feed
on a fruit, they open up a window for bacteria and rot.&nbsp; Immature =
bugs
look quite different than the pics in links below, they&#8217;re =
smaller,
wingless and orange-red, and I just pick them off.&nbsp; Once they =
mature, they&#8217;re
harder to get rid of.</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>&nbsp;</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'><a
href=3D"http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/insects/leaffootedplantbug.html">h=
ttp://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/insects/leaffootedplantbug.html</a></span><=
/font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'><a
href=3D"http://milwaukee.uwex.edu/urbanag/bugnet2/indoors/infloor/leaffoo=
t/leaffoot.html">http://milwaukee.uwex.edu/urbanag/bugnet2/indoors/infloo=
r/leaffoot/leaffoot.html</a></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'><a =
href=3D"http://www.ci.austin.tx.us/preserves/fotobug2.htm">http://www.ci.=
austin.tx.us/preserves/fotobug2.htm</a></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'><a
href=3D"http://ag.arizona.edu/yavapai/anr/hort/byg/archive/leaffootedbug.=
html">http://ag.arizona.edu/yavapai/anr/hort/byg/archive/leaffootedbug.ht=
ml</a></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'><a
href=3D"http://www.globalgourmet.com/food/special/creepy/bugpizza.html">h=
ttp://www.globalgourmet.com/food/special/creepy/bugpizza.html</a>&nbsp;
(!!??!!)</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>&nbsp;</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>Good luck!&nbsp; </span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>&nbsp;</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>Donna Walkuski</span></font></p>

</div>

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From walktall@deru.com  Thu Jun 26 05:53:59 2003
From: walktall@deru.com (walktall)
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 22:53:59 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Leaf-footed bug (nymph) pic
In-Reply-To: <001e01c33a91$affcb8f0$c5fa0344@gpwa.com>
Message-ID: <000001c33ba7$5b2eb230$0200a8c0@DJ7PPD21>


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <kalientekitty@yahoo.com>

You can find a picture of the nymph at this link:

http://insects.tamu.edu/images/insects/leptoglossus_nymph_04.jpg


Donna Walkuski



From rjlego2@yahoo.com  Thu Jun 26 13:49:39 2003
From: rjlego2@yahoo.com (ron)
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 06:49:39 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Plants I need to identify
References: <200306261324.h5QDOPWQ017152@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <056001c33be9$ca754e50$6900a8c0@ronputernew>

Hello,
I'm not sure I agree:
#1 is Boxwood also called Natal Plum
#5 Looks like Pittosporum
#9  drawf Bottlebrush shrub(sometimes labeled Little Johns?)
Hope this helps,
Ron

Message: 1
From: "Tom & Linda Watson" <watsontl@mindspring.com>
To: <jaufder@gblx.net>, "'Toby Odell'" <gtodell@earthlink.net>,
   "'Arid Gardner'" <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Plants I need to identify
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 18:12:52 -0700

Plant 1 is an asparagus fern

I agree with Jon on 2,3,5,6, &7

Plant 8 does look like a sage, but the picture isn't clear enough for me to
be sure which one.

If you've ever seen plant 9 produce small, fragrent, yellow puff-ball
flowers, it's Acacia redolens.

(Toby, if you don't have a copy of the Sunset Western Garden Book mentioned
by Jon, you're missing out!)

Tom

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jon P. Aufderheide" <jaufder@gblx.net>
To: "'Toby Odell'" <gtodell@earthlink.net>; "'Arid Gardner'"
<arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Sent: Monday, June 23, 2003 8:37 AM
Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] Plants I need to identify


> Plant2:  Hibiscus
> Plant3:  Boxwood Beauty
> Plant5:  Euonymous (99% certain)
> Plant6:  Ruellia
> Plant7:  Cape Honeysuckle
>
>
> I'll leave the watering recommendations to someone with a sunset WG book
> handy.


From pebbles8@cybertrails.com  Thu Jun 26 16:00:33 2003
From: pebbles8@cybertrails.com (Vikki Kyle)
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 09:00:33 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Help my grapes
Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20030626090012.01e09d00@ag.arizona.edu>

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I have a question about my grapes, they were doing great and the bunches of 
grapes were about the size of my thumb and then poof they dried up and now 
I just have the  vine. What did I do  or not do?? Thanks  Pebbles

"Vikki Kyle" <pebbles8@cybertrails.com>




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<font face="arial" size=2>I have a question about my grapes, they were
doing great and the bunches of grapes were about the size of my thumb and
then poof they dried up and now I just have the&nbsp; vine. What did I
do&nbsp; or not do?? Thanks&nbsp; Pebbles<br><br>
</font>&quot;Vikki Kyle&quot; &lt;pebbles8@cybertrails.com&gt; <br><br>
<br>
&nbsp;<br>
</html>

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From seeuinaz@comcast.net  Thu Jun 26 16:38:19 2003
From: seeuinaz@comcast.net (Pat)
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 09:38:19 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Watering house plants
Message-ID: <30e7c1b30ea8ab.30ea8ab30e7c1b@icomcast.net>

I have had success watering my house plants with  watering cones
purchased at Brookstone. They are sold 3  for $10.  Mine are in place at
all times, not only when I'm on vacation and I don't have to remember to
water the plants.  
Just put the siphon tube in a vase or other container of water and the
ceramic cone in your plant.
They are also sold on-line at gardeners.com

Pat



From sbarvian@prodigy.net  Fri Jun 27 02:35:55 2003
From: sbarvian@prodigy.net (Scott Barvian)
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 19:35:55 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Plants I need to identify
Message-ID: <004301c33c54$d7a46320$9c084bab@lbmelman>

First of all, thank you very, very much for putting your pictures on
a web page instead of emailing them to the list.

To add to the earlier guesses which are as follows:
====
> Plant2:  Hibiscus
> Plant3:  Boxwood Beauty
> Plant5:  Euonymous (99% certain)
> Plant6:  Ruellia
> Plant7:  Cape Honeysuckle
> 
> Plant 1 is an asparagus fern
> Plant 8 does look like a sage

> If you've ever seen plant 9 produce small, fragrent, yellow puff-ball
> flowers, it's Acacia redolens.
====
 
 Plant 1: Asparagus fern
Plant 2: Hibiscus
Plant 3 is a Natal Plum, hard to tell what variety from the picture. 
Plant 4 is a Euonymus.
Plant 5 is a Pittosporum.
Plant 6: Ruellia
Plant 7: Probably cape honeysuckle.
Plant 8 appears to be a Green Cloud Texas Sage.
Plant 9 looks like a Bottlebrush.  Probably the dwarf variety.
 
Except for the asparagus fern and the pittosporum, I have had all of
these at one time or another.  Ruellia was invasive so I got rid of it.
Didn't have good luck with the hibiscus (whitelfy problems every fall).
The rest, I currently have.

>> The problem I have (other than not knowing exactly what each plant is!) is
>> that I 2 zones of drip irrigation - front and back - and I am afraid that
>> some of the water requirements are vastly different for plants that are in
>> the same zone!"

The water requirements for these 9 plants are quite similar.  Certainly
all can be on the same drip circuit - mine are.    Keep in mind that all
plants on the same line will get water at the same frequency (e.g.
weekly, every 10 days) and you can then adjust how much water each
plant gets with different sized drippers.
Where you'd have a problem would be if you had something 
like a rose bush on the drip line, which needs water much
more often.

And instead of the Western Garden Book, I prefer "Plants for
Dry Climates".

From sbarvian@prodigy.net  Fri Jun 27 03:40:34 2003
From: sbarvian@prodigy.net (Scott Barvian)
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 20:40:34 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Plants I need to identify
References: <NEBBLLOIALNGJACBMGIKKEJDHOAA.gtodell@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <00ac01c33c5d$deb16a60$9c084bab@lbmelman>

My drip line to my desert plants is currently running every other
Monday night for 3 hours.  All the plants are mature or close to it,
and all probably have a 1 gph dripper.  I might go a little more
frequent (10 days) now that the 110's are finally here.

My soil in Mesa is a heavy clay.  You may want to check with a
nursery in your area, although it's not an exact science.  Well,
I suppose it is, but what I mean is that the plants will tolerate
quite a range of watering amounts.


> Hi Scott (and everyone else who has responded),
> 
> Thanks for your reply.  I really need to take a few more pics of these
> plants as some of the identities suggested really don't match once the
> actual plants once I get a chance to research the suggested names.
> 
> And I am glad to know I can keep these all on the same circuit.  However, I
> still don't have a suggestion as to how long and how often to water these.
> I am using 2gph flag dippers.  Any suggestions for when and how long to
> water?
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> Toby


From Obrbok@aol.com  Fri Jun 27 11:15:29 2003
From: Obrbok@aol.com (Obrbok@aol.com)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 04:15:29 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306271115.h5RBFTWQ006474@Ag.arizona.edu>

Isn't there qa time when the Christmas Cactus has to be kept in dark area for resting?


From gtodell@earthlink.net  Fri Jun 27 03:16:54 2003
From: gtodell@earthlink.net (Toby Odell)
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 20:16:54 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Plants I need to identify
In-Reply-To: <004301c33c54$d7a46320$9c084bab@lbmelman>
Message-ID: <NEBBLLOIALNGJACBMGIKKEJDHOAA.gtodell@earthlink.net>

Hi Scott (and everyone else who has responded),

Thanks for your reply.  I really need to take a few more pics of these
plants as some of the identities suggested really don't match once the
actual plants once I get a chance to research the suggested names.

And I am glad to know I can keep these all on the same circuit.  However, I
still don't have a suggestion as to how long and how often to water these.
I am using 2gph flag dippers.  Any suggestions for when and how long to
water?

Thanks again,

Toby
-----Original Message-----
From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu
[mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Scott Barvian
Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2003 7:36 PM
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Cc: gtodell@earthlink.net; jaufder@gblx.net; watsontl@mindspring.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Plants I need to identify


First of all, thank you very, very much for putting your pictures on
a web page instead of emailing them to the list.

To add to the earlier guesses which are as follows:
====
> Plant2:  Hibiscus
> Plant3:  Boxwood Beauty
> Plant5:  Euonymous (99% certain)
> Plant6:  Ruellia
> Plant7:  Cape Honeysuckle
>
> Plant 1 is an asparagus fern
> Plant 8 does look like a sage

> If you've ever seen plant 9 produce small, fragrent, yellow puff-ball
> flowers, it's Acacia redolens.
====

 Plant 1: Asparagus fern
Plant 2: Hibiscus
Plant 3 is a Natal Plum, hard to tell what variety from the picture.
Plant 4 is a Euonymus.
Plant 5 is a Pittosporum.
Plant 6: Ruellia
Plant 7: Probably cape honeysuckle.
Plant 8 appears to be a Green Cloud Texas Sage.
Plant 9 looks like a Bottlebrush.  Probably the dwarf variety.

Except for the asparagus fern and the pittosporum, I have had all of
these at one time or another.  Ruellia was invasive so I got rid of it.
Didn't have good luck with the hibiscus (whitelfy problems every fall).
The rest, I currently have.

>> The problem I have (other than not knowing exactly what each plant is!)
is
>> that I 2 zones of drip irrigation - front and back - and I am afraid that
>> some of the water requirements are vastly different for plants that are
in
>> the same zone!"

The water requirements for these 9 plants are quite similar.  Certainly
all can be on the same drip circuit - mine are.    Keep in mind that all
plants on the same line will get water at the same frequency (e.g.
weekly, every 10 days) and you can then adjust how much water each
plant gets with different sized drippers.
Where you'd have a problem would be if you had something
like a rose bush on the drip line, which needs water much
more often.

And instead of the Western Garden Book, I prefer "Plants for
Dry Climates".
_______________________________________________
Arid_gardener mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener



From serenaholder@cox.net  Sat Jun 28 01:06:35 2003
From: serenaholder@cox.net (serenaholder@cox.net)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 18:06:35 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306280106.h5S16Zw4000836@Ag.arizona.edu>

Is it possible to start another plant from an existing Rubber Tree?  We are moving away from a home in Mesa and a magnificant 25 year old "housewarming" plant and want to start another one at our new home from the original one. Can branches be cut and rooted in water or soil?  I've talked to a variety of nurseries in the area and visited sites on the web and can't seen to find an answer. Thank you for your time and help.  Serena


From relecoms@msn.com  Fri Jun 27 23:34:35 2003
From: relecoms@msn.com (relecoms@msn.com)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 16:34:35 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306272334.h5RNYZw4020595@Ag.arizona.edu>

What is the best way and the best product to get rid of nut sedge in the lawn.  How can the summer Bermuda be reestablished?

Thanks for your help.


From watsontl@mindspring.com  Fri Jun 27 13:18:10 2003
From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 06:18:10 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Plants I need to identify
References: <004301c33c54$d7a46320$9c084bab@lbmelman>
Message-ID: <000e01c33cae$8fb5ac90$8369b83f@S0029317241>

Definitely another book worth having.

Tom

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Scott Barvian" <sbarvian@prodigy.net>
To: <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Cc: <gtodell@earthlink.net>; <jaufder@gblx.net>; <watsontl@mindspring.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2003 7:35 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Plants I need to identify


> First of all, thank you very, very much for putting your pictures on
> a web page instead of emailing them to the list.
>
> To add to the earlier guesses which are as follows:
> ====
> > Plant2:  Hibiscus
> > Plant3:  Boxwood Beauty
> > Plant5:  Euonymous (99% certain)
> > Plant6:  Ruellia
> > Plant7:  Cape Honeysuckle
> >
> > Plant 1 is an asparagus fern
> > Plant 8 does look like a sage
>
> > If you've ever seen plant 9 produce small, fragrent, yellow puff-ball
> > flowers, it's Acacia redolens.
> ====
>
>  Plant 1: Asparagus fern
> Plant 2: Hibiscus
> Plant 3 is a Natal Plum, hard to tell what variety from the picture.
> Plant 4 is a Euonymus.
> Plant 5 is a Pittosporum.
> Plant 6: Ruellia
> Plant 7: Probably cape honeysuckle.
> Plant 8 appears to be a Green Cloud Texas Sage.
> Plant 9 looks like a Bottlebrush.  Probably the dwarf variety.
>
> Except for the asparagus fern and the pittosporum, I have had all of
> these at one time or another.  Ruellia was invasive so I got rid of it.
> Didn't have good luck with the hibiscus (whitelfy problems every fall).
> The rest, I currently have.
>
> >> The problem I have (other than not knowing exactly what each plant is!)
is
> >> that I 2 zones of drip irrigation - front and back - and I am afraid
that
> >> some of the water requirements are vastly different for plants that are
in
> >> the same zone!"
>
> The water requirements for these 9 plants are quite similar.  Certainly
> all can be on the same drip circuit - mine are.    Keep in mind that all
> plants on the same line will get water at the same frequency (e.g.
> weekly, every 10 days) and you can then adjust how much water each
> plant gets with different sized drippers.
> Where you'd have a problem would be if you had something
> like a rose bush on the drip line, which needs water much
> more often.
>
> And instead of the Western Garden Book, I prefer "Plants for
> Dry Climates".
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>



From rodmmcq6@highstream.net  Fri Jun 27 22:01:54 2003
From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 15:01:54 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plants I need to identify
Message-ID: <000d01c33cf7$ce7b94a0$5ea9db43@ibmbna6040>

Toby,
I would identify your plants # 2 thru 9 as hibiscus, natal plum, euonymus,
pittosporum, ruella, honeysuckle, Texas sage and bottlebrush. # 1  looked
like myaporum but I'm not positive.
As for watering, all would do well on the same amount except the natal plum
and the Texas sage which do not require as much water. Over watering
especially the natal plum can help to bring on a fungus called charcoal rot
( Macrophomina phasetinia ).

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener

-----Original Message-----
From: Toby Odell <gtodell@earthlink.net>
To: Arid Gardner <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Date: Monday, June 23, 2003 8:00 AM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plants I need to identify


>Hi,
>
>There are a number of plants in my yard that I need help identifying so
that
>I can water them appropriately.  I have attached a link here to a page with
>photos I have taken of each plant.
>
>http://home.earthlink.net/~gtodell/Plants/Plants1.htm.
>
>The problem I have (other than not knowing exactly what each plant is!) is
>that I 2 zones of drip irrigation - front and back - and I am afraid that
>some of the water requirements are vastly different for plants that are in
>the same zone!
>
>Thanks very much in advance for any help !
>
>Toby
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>


From rbrownaz@cox.net  Fri Jun 27 17:18:42 2003
From: rbrownaz@cox.net (rbrownaz@cox.net)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 10:18:42 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306271718.h5RHIgw4007909@Ag.arizona.edu>

What is a solution to pearlscale ?        Who killed Kennedy ? J/K Thank you !!       


From b_ehmann@msn.com  Fri Jun 27 17:55:48 2003
From: b_ehmann@msn.com (b_ehmann@msn.com)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 10:55:48 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306271755.h5RHtmw4015086@Ag.arizona.edu>

My Chinaberry tree is growing very well, but there is quite a lot of yellow leaf growth in the center of the tree.  What should I do?
Also, when can it be pruned? When can I prune my ficus (don't remeber type).


From donsay2@cox.net  Fri Jun 27 19:03:22 2003
From: donsay2@cox.net (Don Richards)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 12:03:22 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hybiscus Pruning
Message-ID: <5.0.2.1.0.20030627115843.01bf5980@pop.west.cox.net>

I have several hybiscus plants (outside) and they have grown too high and 
spread out so they interfere with other plants.  Can I prune them back and 
if so how should this be done?  Is there a "how to" source that I can use 
to guide me?     donsay2@cox.net


From nfk54401@cox.net  Sat Jun 28 14:57:12 2003
From: nfk54401@cox.net (Norma Kafer)
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 07:57:12 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
References: <200306272334.h5RNYZw4020595@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <000701c33d85$8eb1af60$c5fa0344@gpwa.com>

There are two products specifically formulated to get rid of nut sedge,
"Image" and "Manage". You need to be careful of the spray drifting and make
sure you do not spray other plants by accident.  Water and fertilize your
bermuda grass, it should rebound quickly.

Norma Kafer
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <relecoms@msn.com>
To: <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2003 4:34 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page


> What is the best way and the best product to get rid of nut sedge in the
lawn.  How can the summer Bermuda be reestablished?
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>



From EKIMECAP@AOL.COM  Sat Jun 28 20:03:32 2003
From: EKIMECAP@AOL.COM (EKIMECAP@AOL.COM)
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 13:03:32 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306282003.h5SK3Ww4019498@Ag.arizona.edu>

I have a Chinese Orchid tree.  It has been in ground 2 1/2 years.  The first spring it had very few flowers/ Second year...no flowers.  This year , flowers beyond imagination.  Then it formed hundreds of seed pods and promptly proceeded to lose ALL of its leaves.  It is now leafing out with all new leaves.  Are these things normal?  Watering has not changed year to year.


From drew_linda@hotmail.com  Sat Jun 28 22:48:20 2003
From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew)
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 22:48:20 +0000
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Christmas cactus
Message-ID: <Law14-F1047SmIdFCZr0000b539@hotmail.com>

Christmas cactus is a jungle cactus and needs medium light through
spring summer and fall. Beginning in early fall, cover the plant with
a box from twilight to morning to simulate short days necessary for
flower buds to form.

Check your library for the book "Success With Houseplants" for more
information.

Linda Drew
Master Gardener

>From: Obrbok@aol.com
>To: <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
>Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 04:15:29 -0700 (MST)
>
>Isn't there qa time when the Christmas Cactus has to be kept in dark area 
>for resting?
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/ar

_________________________________________________________________
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From drew_linda@hotmail.com  Sat Jun 28 22:30:06 2003
From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew)
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 22:30:06 +0000
Subject: [Arid_gardener] propagating ficus elastica (rubber tree)
Message-ID: <Law14-F30sTLSzrmzZD00004675@hotmail.com>

You should be able to propagate the rubber tree using an air layering
technique. For an excellent description with photos, look for this book
in your library or bookstore:

   "Plant Propagation" by the American Horticultural Society.

page 64 has step-by-step directions for the rubber tree.

Linda Drew
Master Gardener

p.s .what a great idea to take your "housewarming" plant with you!

>From: serenaholder@cox.net
>To: <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
>Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 18:06:35 -0700 (MST)
>
>Is it possible to start another plant from an existing Rubber Tree?  We are 
>moving away from a home in Mesa and a magnificant 25 year old 
>"housewarming" plant and want to start another one at our new home from the 
>original one. Can branches be cut and rooted in water or soil?  I've talked 
>to a variety of nurseries in the area and visited sites on the web and 
>can't seen to find an answer. Thank you for your time and help.  Serena
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener

_________________________________________________________________
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From drew_linda@hotmail.com  Sat Jun 28 22:21:01 2003
From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew)
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 22:21:01 +0000
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Chinaberry
Message-ID: <Law14-F35we1UZA7YqL00081073@hotmail.com>

My chinaberries also show yellowing this time of year. It may be due to
a nitrogen deficiency, but doesn't seem to be a problem for the tree.
Too much water may also cause some yellowing. Prune lightly in
winter (December-January).

Some Ficus are pruned in the winter season - not sure which one you
have.

Linda Drew
Master Gardener

>From: b_ehmann@msn.com
>To: <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
>Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 10:55:48 -0700 (MST)
>
>My Chinaberry tree is growing very well, but there is quite a lot of yellow 
>leaf growth in the center of the tree.  What should I do?
>Also, when can it be pruned? When can I prune my ficus (don't remeber 
>type).
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener

_________________________________________________________________
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From rodmmcq6@highstream.net  Sat Jun 28 22:22:25 2003
From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net)
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 15:22:25 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hong Kong Orchid tree loosing its leaves
Message-ID: <005801c33dc3$c1bcd180$cfa9db43@ibmbna6040>

The Hong Kong Orchid Tree does tend to lose its leaves about the time that
it blooms so nothing to be concerned about.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
-----Original Message-----
From: EKIMECAP@AOL.COM <EKIMECAP@AOL.COM>
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Date: Saturday, June 28, 2003 1:37 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page


>I have a Chinese Orchid tree.  It has been in ground 2 1/2 years.  The
first spring it had very few flowers/ Second year...no flowers.  This year ,
flowers beyond imagination.  Then it formed hundreds of seed pods and
promptly proceeded to lose ALL of its leaves.  It is now leafing out with
all new leaves.  Are these things normal?  Watering has not changed year to
year.
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>


From drew_linda@hotmail.com  Sat Jun 28 22:06:02 2003
From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew)
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 22:06:02 +0000
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning Hibiscus
Message-ID: <Law14-F71xqG6gQQ8HZ0006b506@hotmail.com>


"Arizona Gardener's Guide" by Mary Irish recommends pruning in early
spring (after danger of frost is past).

Pruning stimulates growth, so you should try to avoid pruning during June, a
very stressful months for most plants.

Linda Drew
Master Gardener

>From: Don Richards <donsay2@cox.net>
>To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
>Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hybiscus Pruning
>Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 12:03:22 -0700
>
>I have several hybiscus plants (outside) and they have grown too high and 
>spread out so they interfere with other plants.  Can I prune them back and 
>if so how should this be done?  Is there a "how to" source that I can use 
>to guide me?     donsay2@cox.net
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener

_________________________________________________________________
Tired of spam? Get advanced junk mail protection with MSN 8. 
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From drew_linda@hotmail.com  Sat Jun 28 22:24:09 2003
From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew)
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 22:24:09 +0000
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pearl Scale
Message-ID: <Law14-F42THL2bti2Sb000047b9@hotmail.com>

re: Pearl Scale (an earlier response to a similar question):

Pearl scale is often blamed for poor maintenance practices, but it appears 
that you have truly identified this as the culprit. I am attaching a missive 
we recently received on the listserve about the problem. One thing that
will be essential, since many lawns, even hybrid bermudas, can fend it off 
if given a chance, is that the lawn be very well cared for and otherwise 
kept healthy [good irrigation practice and fertilization, mowing properly,
etc.]. These elements are discussed below as well as management which is to 
(1) acidify the alkaline soil that pearl scale thrive in and (2) try an 
insecticide product called Merit.  It may be too late to make much of a 
dent,
since the grass is approaching dormancy and the pest is best addressed in 
May, but you can give it a go and certainly will be ready to deal with it 
next growing season.

Good luck,
Linda Guy,
Master Gardener

PEARL SCALE OR GROUND PEARL AND YOUR LAWN
By Sharon Dewey, Certified Turfgrass Professional,
and Dave Langston, Ph.D. University of Arizona, College of Agriculture


Pearl scale or ground pearl, refers to an insect that can be a problem for
St. Augustine, Zoysia and Bermuda grasses. Hybrid Bermuda grasses are
usually more affected than common Bermuda. As the name implies, an 
infestation will resemble miniature pearls. Scale insects secrete a whitish 
to brown
substance that covers and protects their bodies, and are seldom larger than
one-sixteenth of an inch.

These insects suck the juices from plants, usually killing the root. The
grass gradually weakens, turns yellow, then brown, thins and dies, and
circular patches of dead grass will appear on the lawn. Damage will appear
in the fall as the grass is going in to dormancy. These damaged areas will 
not
recover the following spring when the grass begins to grow again.

In late May and lasting throughout the summer, the majority of females
emerge from their pearl scales and lay about 100 eggs in a waxy coat. In a 
few days
the eggs hatch into crawlers, which attach to grass roots. They secrete a
hard, waxy coating that becomes the next generation of ground pearl scale.

Here are some tips on detecting pearl scale.

1.  Dig at the edge of the damaged area that is next to an unaffected area.
2.  Carefully dig down two to four inches. Try not to spread scale to
unaffected area.
3.  Look at the roots of unaffected area.
4.  Pearl scale are obvious because of their contrasting color and their
shape.
5.  The insects are soft and can be easily squashed.
6.  Be very careful with contaminated soil and the tools used to examine the
lawn, as they can contaminate unaffected area.

Controlling scale.

Pearl scales are spread in infested turf and through the use of dirty
equipment. Always wash the soil off shovels, trowels or other lawn and
garden equipment after each use. Mowers are not likely to transfer scales 
unless
they are very dirty. There are no chemical control methods that completely
rid the lawn of pearl scale. However, there is some evidence that
applications of soil acidifiers (these reduce soil pH), and/or the product
Merit may help slow down the spread of pearl scale. The optimal time for
treating a lawn with Merit is in late May when the females are emerging.

1.  The best chance for control is early detection when the circular patches
are small and manageable.

2.  Carefully remove damaged patches one foot beyond the affected area and
one foot deep. Then dispose of the affected roots and the surrounding soil.
Pearl scales may withstand long periods of drought in the soil, and may
still be alive after more than a year. So be very careful to avoid spreading 
them
when replacing damaged turf.

3.  Most of the pearl scale will be in the upper two to four inches of soil,
but have been found as deep as grass roots grow, making control very
difficult.

4.  After removing affected portions of the lawn replace the contaminated
soil. At this time you may want to treat with soil acidifiers and/or Merit
and then re-sod or seed the area.

5.  To enhance the penetration of soil acidifiers, make holes in the area to
be treated before applying acid mixtures.

Prevention.

Proper maintenance helps prevent pearl scale infestations. Although rare,
some lawns, particularly common Bermuda have been shown to grow out of an
infestation when the lawn receives proper maintenance. Also, seeded Bermuda
appears to be able to better withstand pearl scale, or at least the spots
can
be reseeded each year to cover the damaged areas. This is NOT a control
method but merely hides the damaged spots.

Maintenance tips:

1.  Water deeply (eight to 10 inches), but only as often as to avoid wilt.
2.  Fertilize every four to six weeks using a complete fertilizer such as a
21-7-14 blend.
3.  Mow no more than the top one third of the grass, using a sharp mower
blade.
4.  Remove thatch if it is more than one-half inch thick.
5.  Use proper soil management.

For more Turf Grass information: Contact the Arizona Cooperative Extension's
Web Site - http://www.ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html

    Web Site:   www.westernsod.com

    E-mail: wsod@westernsod.com

    Phone:  Tuft Hot Line: 10800-321-TURF for turf questions of the
            Lawngevity video




>From: rbrownaz@cox.net
>To: <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
>Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 10:18:42 -0700 (MST)
>
>What is a solution to pearlscale ?        Who killed Kennedy ? J/K Thank 
>you !!
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener

_________________________________________________________________
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From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net  Sun Jun 29 06:53:13 2003
From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin)
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 23:53:13 -0700
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Rubber Plant Propagation Question from Home-Hort WWW page
References: <200306280106.h5S16Zw4000836@Ag.arizona.edu>
Message-ID: <00c801c33e0b$215cfb50$cb51530c@olin>

Try airlayering.  See
http://home.att.net/~millero/DesertGardening/airlayeringHide.htm
for one description of the method.  That article was in response to a
question about propagating oleanders but it works equally well on rubber
plants (ficus elastica).

You can also root a cutting in soil if you can keep the cutting alive
until the roots form - a bit of a challenge if you do not have a
greenhouse.   Absent a greenhouse, you can keep the humidity high by
covering the potted cutting with a jar or plastic bag.  Insert sticks
into the soil at the inside circumference of the pot to keep the plastic
from touching the cutting.  The jar or bag should be removed for a few
minutes every few days to expose the cutting to fresh air.  Do it
indoors - the current high outdoor Phoenix temps are not conducive to
plant growth.

The cuttings will also root easily in water.  But it seems to me that
roots formed in water are not the same as those formed in soil and it
takes a while after transplanting into soil before you see new growth.

Using a rooting hormone, available at local garden centers, seems to
help with both airlayering and cuttings.

Olin

----- Original Message -----From: <serenaholder@cox.net>
> Is it possible to start another plant from an existing Rubber Tree?
We are moving away from a home in Mesa and a magnificant 25 year old
"housewarming" plant and want to start another one at our new home from
the original one. Can branches be cut and rooted in water or soil?  I've
talked to a variety of nurseries in the area and visited sites on the
web and can't seen to find an answer. Thank you for your time and help.
Serena


From virginiaspence4@hotmail.com  Mon Jun 30 19:03:54 2003
From: virginiaspence4@hotmail.com (virginiaspence4@hotmail.com)
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 12:03:54 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306301903.h5UJ3sw4013979@Ag.arizona.edu>

the fruit on my peach tree has holes where the stem holdes the fruit. moisture has gotten into the fruit and caused the seed to split in half also mold. can anyone tell me why this has happend.


From baileyfreed@direcway.com  Sun Jun 29 18:51:22 2003
From: baileyfreed@direcway.com (baileyfreed@direcway.com)
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2003 11:51:22 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306291851.h5TIpMw4019893@Ag.arizona.edu>

I am wanting to know how to keep newly transplanted peach trees from dying.


From isgrock@msn.com  Mon Jun 30 21:06:24 2003
From: isgrock@msn.com (isgrock@msn.com)
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2003 14:06:24 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Message-ID: <200306302106.h5UL6Ow4007670@Ag.arizona.edu>

I planted a Lysiloma Thornberi(Feather Bush) tree in December 2001. It is in good shape, but I think it needs to be thinned rather than pruned.  Can you provide directions on how to do this? Or the name of a competent company that knows what to do rather than a gardener who trims everything in the shape of a ball. Thanks.