From judsch375@hotmail.com Sat Nov 1 07:59:26 2003 From: judsch375@hotmail.com (judy schrock) Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2003 00:59:26 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Taller flowers Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0045_01C3A013.6571B780 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have stock (Harmony Mix) which grow 8 to 10 inches. Can I pinch the = tops out so they will spread more? Or should I let them just stand tall? ------=_NextPart_000_0045_01C3A013.6571B780 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I have stock (Harmony Mix) which grow 8 to 10 inches.  Can = I =20 pinch the tops out so they will spread more?  Or should I let them = just=20 stand tall?
------=_NextPart_000_0045_01C3A013.6571B780-- From graves" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C3A061.B7F0F680 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I planted a Pecan tree 4 yrs back and it hasn't grown but about an inch = since then..also it's leaves stay yellow looking all the time..I live in = south Arkansas. My daugther who lives next door planted the same kind of tree..the same = yr and hers is beauitful, she does nothing to it at all..I'm having a = hard time trying to figure out what is wrong..hers is growing and mine = is not . Can you maybe give me some advice as to way this maybe = happening?=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C3A061.B7F0F680 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I planted a Pecan tree 4 yrs back and = it hasn't=20 grown but about an inch since then..also it's leaves stay yellow looking = all the=20 time..I live in south Arkansas.
My daugther who lives next door planted = the same=20 kind of tree..the same yr and hers is beauitful, she does nothing to it = at=20 all..I'm having a hard time trying to figure out what is wrong..hers is = growing=20 and mine is not . Can you maybe give me some advice as to way this maybe = happening?
------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C3A061.B7F0F680-- From honeyb127@comcast.net Sat Nov 1 19:27:54 2003 From: honeyb127@comcast.net (honeyb127@comcast.net) Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2003 12:27:54 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311011927.hA1JRsAi016931@Ag.arizona.edu> I am new to AZ gardening. Please tell me is Otto Quast Spanish Lavender will grow in the Phoenix area? From oooohflowers@yahoo.com Sat Nov 1 20:57:20 2003 From: oooohflowers@yahoo.com (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2003 12:57:20 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Identifying columnar cactus In-Reply-To: <001701c39f0f$45f4c1e0$2824a8c0@lbmelman> Message-ID: <20031101205720.23235.qmail@web20416.mail.yahoo.com> --0-480621294-1067720240=:22255 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Hello Scott; As you have clearly already figured out, identifying cacti is no easy feat! There are 2,000 described species in this family. I found this website: http://cactiguide.com/, which provides a key for identification. I'm curious to know if it is at all helpful to you. The ASU herbarium and the Desert Botanical Garden are also really great resources for identifying cacti. Good luck! Kelly Scott Barvian wrote: What is a good resource for identifying the different varieties of columnar cacti? I have one in my yard that has 8 ribs on each column. And I bought a small one at the Master Gardener plant-swap event last weekend (thank you, MG's) that only has 5 ribs. I don't know the precise names of either. Just wondering if maybe the number of ribs can be used to identify the different cactus families. That would be a starting point if so. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Exclusive Video Premiere - Britney Spears --0-480621294-1067720240=:22255 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Hello Scott;
 
As you have clearly already figured out, identifying cacti is no easy feat!  There are 2,000 described species in this family. I found this website: http://cactiguide.com/, which provides a key for identification.  I'm curious to know if it is at all helpful to you.
 
The ASU herbarium and the Desert Botanical Garden are also really great resources for identifying cacti.
 
Good luck!
 
Kelly
 
 


Scott Barvian <sbarvian1@cableaz.com> wrote:
What is a good resource for identifying the different varieties
of columnar cacti?

I have one in my yard that has 8 ribs on each column. And
I bought a small one at the Master Gardener plant-swap
event last weekend (thank you, MG's) that only has 5 ribs.
I don't know the precise names of either.

Just wondering if maybe the number of ribs can be used to
identify the different cactus families. That would be a starting
point if so.
_______________________________________________
Arid_gardener mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener

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Exclusive Video Premiere - Britney Spears --0-480621294-1067720240=:22255-- From oooohflowers@yahoo.com Sat Nov 1 20:30:00 2003 From: oooohflowers@yahoo.com (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2003 12:30:00 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] pecan tree In-Reply-To: <000a01c3a094$037e03e0$6fc336d0@q6z2b1> Message-ID: <20031101203000.58811.qmail@web20421.mail.yahoo.com> --0-370124618-1067718600=:58704 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Hello Graves; You should probably contact your local cooperative extension office in regards to your pecan problems. The Arid Gardener Listserve (where you posted your question) focuses on gardening in the arid Southwest. We have a whole different set of soil and pest problems here than in Arkansas. I've included a link to the University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension as well as their mailing address. Good luck with your pecans! http://www.uaex.edu/ University of Arkansas • Division of Agriculture Cooperative Extension Service 2301 South University Avenue Little Rock, Arkansas 72204 • USA Phone (501) 671-2000 • Fax (501) 671-2209 Kelly graves wrote: I planted a Pecan tree 4 yrs back and it hasn't grown but about an inch since then..also it's leaves stay yellow looking all the time..I live in south Arkansas. My daugther who lives next door planted the same kind of tree..the same yr and hers is beauitful, she does nothing to it at all..I'm having a hard time trying to figure out what is wrong..hers is growing and mine is not . Can you maybe give me some advice as to way this maybe happening? --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Exclusive Video Premiere - Britney Spears --0-370124618-1067718600=:58704 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Hello Graves;
 
You should probably contact your local cooperative extension office in regards to your pecan problems.  The Arid Gardener Listserve (where you posted your question) focuses on gardening in the arid Southwest.  We have a whole different set of soil and pest problems here than in Arkansas. 
 
I've included a link to the University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension as well as their mailing address.  Good luck with your pecans!
http://www.uaex.edu/
University of Arkansas • Division of Agriculture
Cooperative Extension Service
2301 South University Avenue
Little Rock, Arkansas 72204 • USA
Phone (501) 671-2000 • Fax (501) 671-2209
 
 
Kelly
 
 

graves <ctn56734@centurytel.net> wrote:
I planted a Pecan tree 4 yrs back and it hasn't grown but about an inch since then..also it's leaves stay yellow looking all the time..I live in south Arkansas.
My daugther who lives next door planted the same kind of tree..the same yr and hers is beauitful, she does nothing to it at all..I'm having a hard time trying to figure out what is wrong..hers is growing and mine is not . Can you maybe give me some advice as to way this maybe happening?

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Exclusive Video Premiere - Britney Spears --0-370124618-1067718600=:58704-- From oooohflowers@yahoo.com Sat Nov 1 20:48:46 2003 From: oooohflowers@yahoo.com (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2003 12:48:46 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Texas Ebony vs. Ironwood In-Reply-To: <20031030.205014.-1687213.2.xenaandsilverback@juno.com> Message-ID: <20031101204846.85990.qmail@web20413.mail.yahoo.com> --0-1921718076-1067719726=:85107 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Hi Phil; Decisions, decisions! You narrowed your choices down to two wonderful trees. Both trees do very well in the southwest deserts, grow very slowly to a height of approximately 40 feet, are very thorny and require very little maintenance. Texas ebony, Ebonopsis ebono (formerly Pithecellobium flexicaule, is native to the Chihuahuan desert. It produces numberous woody pods that can be fairly messy. It is also prone to wood-boring beetles. Ironwood, Olneya tesota is a native to the Sonoran desert. It produces flowers and pods that will seasonally create a mess, but all plants produce some sort of mess at some point (all living things do :) Most "trees" grow much taller than 12 feet in height. Parkinsonia microphyllum (Foothills Paloverde) doesn't usually get as tall as many of the other desert legumenous trees, not usually growing much beyond 20 feet in height. You might also consider looking at some of the taller desert shrubs and pruning them up as small trees. Good luck! Kelly phil noland wrote: Looking to put desert shade tree in front yard, next to boulder water feature and over flagstone area with two benches. I want a desert-type tree that is hardy, gives some shade, and that I will not have to constantly trim. It would also be nice if it did not shed profusely. I have a great little Texas Ebony in the back that started as a 4' bush. It is now a 8' bush. Someone told me that Texas Ebonies can turn into great trees. I have always liked Ironwood trees. I am looking for a tree about 12' tall with equal canopy to plant as shade/accent in this area. How big do the respective plants get to be? Which grows faster, needs more trimming, sheds more, and has more "issues"? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Exclusive Video Premiere - Britney Spears --0-1921718076-1067719726=:85107 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Hi Phil;

Decisions, decisions!  You narrowed your choices down to two wonderful trees. Both trees do very well in the southwest deserts, grow  very slowly to a height of approximately 40 feet, are very thorny and require very little maintenance. 
 
Texas ebony, Ebonopsis ebono (formerly Pithecellobium flexicaule, is native to the Chihuahuan desert.  It produces numberous woody pods that can be fairly messy.  It is also prone to wood-boring beetles.
 
Ironwood, Olneya tesota is a native to the Sonoran desert.  It produces flowers and pods that will seasonally create a mess, but all plants produce some sort of mess at some point (all living things do :)
 
Most "trees" grow much taller than 12 feet in height.  Parkinsonia microphyllum (Foothills Paloverde) doesn't usually get as tall as many of the other desert legumenous trees, not usually growing much beyond 20 feet in height. You might also consider looking at some of the taller desert shrubs and pruning them up as small trees.
 
Good luck!
 
 
Kelly
 
 
 
 
 

phil noland <xenaandsilverback@juno.com> wrote:
Looking to put desert shade tree in front yard, next to boulder water
feature and over flagstone area with two benches. I want a desert-type
tree that is hardy, gives some shade, and that I will not have to
constantly trim. It would also be nice if it did not shed profusely. I
have a great little Texas Ebony in the back that started as a 4' bush.
It is now a 8' bush. Someone told me that Texas Ebonies can turn into
great trees. I have always liked Ironwood trees. I am looking for a
tree about 12' tall with equal canopy to plant as shade/accent in this
area. How big do the respective plants get to be? Which grows faster,
needs more trimming, sheds more, and has more "issues"?
_______________________________________________
Arid_gardener mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener

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Exclusive Video Premiere - Britney Spears --0-1921718076-1067719726=:85107-- From GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com Sat Nov 1 22:25:46 2003 From: GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com (GardenGuy) Date: Sat, 01 Nov 2003 15:25:46 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ligustrum japonica Message-ID: <3FA432EA.5030206@GardenersCorner.com> Hi folks, I went to Lowes this afternoon, and they had five gallon Ligustrum japonica clearance priced at just $5 bucks a piece. I saw two of these as standard this spring, absolutely lovely, and that fragrance was heaven sent. So I purchased the three that were there, gave one to my neighbor who just bought a house and kept two for myself. The reason I didn't get them at walmart this spring was because they were $200 a piece...beautiful standards! Now mine are just shrub size, and I'm thinking I will train them as small multi-branch trees. I planted them in oak barrels and planted pansies all around them. It looks so perty. Does anyone else grow Ligustrum? Curious to hear what you have to say about it. Like it? Hate it? Any special care requirements? -- -- Chat with you later... Alan ----- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ***** LIVE Garden Chat Now Available ***** ----- Alan Zelhart GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- "It's not the money I want, it's the stuff""" From alamo@dakotacom.net Mon Nov 3 01:50:16 2003 From: alamo@dakotacom.net (Signa) Date: Sun, 02 Nov 2003 18:50:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Slim Leaf Bursage Infestation Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20031102180450.00a50cf0@pop3.norton.antivirus> Is eradication of Slim Leaf Bursage possible, and if so by what method(s)? My bursage "crop" started in the alley behind my patio wall a few years ago, and has persisted in coming back, evidently from its underground root runners, after repeated removals of the plants and regular treatments of the alley with pre-emergent. It has more recently apparently crossed under the footing of my patio wall into a planting border and from there several feet into the lawn, despite my regularly removing all the visible plants (with as much of the roots as I can get) from inside my yard approximately twice a month. I have been less assiduous in the alley and have observed there that it produces seeds as well as spreading by its subterranean rooting system. Questions: 1. Does pre-emergent treatment (such as Weed Stop) prevent germination of this bursage's seeds? 2. Would herbicide treatment (such as RoundUp) of all the above-ground plantlets eventually put the root system out of business and kill off this pest? (I'm thinking I could fashion a paper cone to use inverted around the bursage in the lawn and planting border so that I could spray each weed while shielding the lawn and border plants. Might this work?) I have just finished clearing out the dang things yet again, and I'd surely admire to find a way to eradicate this ongoing infestation with which I seem to have been blessed. Thanks, Signa From Pandabear561@aol.com Mon Nov 3 13:45:26 2003 From: Pandabear561@aol.com (Pandabear561@aol.com) Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 08:45:26 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Drying Gourds Message-ID: <2f.40faff9b.2cd7b5f6@aol.com> --part1_2f.40faff9b.2cd7b5f6_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Please tell me how to or, why I might find the instructions for drying gourds. I have tried in the past but, I had no luck. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you, Ginny --part1_2f.40faff9b.2cd7b5f6_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Please tell me how to or, why=20= I might find the instructions for drying gourds.
I have tried in the past but, I had no luck.
Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you, Ginny --part1_2f.40faff9b.2cd7b5f6_boundary-- From s2@auroranow.org Mon Nov 3 14:49:19 2003 From: s2@auroranow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Mon, 03 Nov 2003 07:49:19 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Slim Leaf Bursage Infestation References: <5.1.0.14.2.20031102180450.00a50cf0@pop3.norton.antivirus> Message-ID: <3FA66AEF.5030701@auroranow.org> > (I'm thinking I could fashion a paper cone to use inverted around the bursage in the lawn and planting border so that I could spray each weed while shielding the lawn and border plants. Might this work?) I cut the bottom off a milk jug and hold the sprayer through the top and use the milk jug as a cone to protect adjacent plants when using Round-up. I also try to go out and spray early in the morning when winds are at their lowest. Pre-emergent will prevent seeds from germinating, and has to be re-applied every 6 months or so (I find it most effective right before rainy seasons, i.e., November-December and again in June.) If a seed has germinated, but hasn't emerged, it will still come up. Round up kills growing plants only if they are actively growing. Sometimes it takes re-applying round-up at different times of the season if you're not sure if a plant is "actively growing" or not. My experience (we have the same issue with creosote and desert tobacco on our property) is that these are never-ending battles. Use both the round up and pre-emergent in addition to good ol' fashioned cutting and pulling, and just consider it a regular part of your landscape maintenance. not a master gardener, -- Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. Aurora Now Foundation | http://www.auroranow.org Helping human systems create better futures ----------------------------------------------- Tucson office: 520.578-2801 | AOL IM: Aurora S2 ----------------------------------------------- "I became convinced that we're here for each other." --R. Buckminster Fuller From BeverlyFz2@aol.com Mon Nov 3 21:25:01 2003 From: BeverlyFz2@aol.com (BeverlyFz2@aol.com) Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 16:25:01 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mountain Lion Message-ID: <1d1.13912104.2cd821ad@aol.com> --part1_1d1.13912104.2cd821ad_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I live against the South Mountain Preserve off of 22nd street on the north side of the mountain. I awoke at 2:00 am to the meow of a mountion lion outside my door. I first though a cat had found a way into the house it was so loud. This morning there are definitely mountain lion tracks all around the yard. I measure them at 2.75 inches across. I spend a lot of time outside and am wondering what's the risk of this large cat jumping off the roof onto my back or some surprise like this. I don't want to sneak around watching my back, or find it between me and the door. Other people think I should be afraid. Thx B --part1_1d1.13912104.2cd821ad_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I live against the South Mountain Preserve off of 22nd= street on the north side of the mountain. I awoke at 2:00 am to the meow of= a mountion lion outside my door. I first though a cat had found a way into=20= the house it was so loud. This morning there are definitely mountain lion tr= acks all around the yard. I measure them at 2.75 inches across. I spend a lo= t of time outside and am wondering what's the risk of this large cat jumping= off the roof onto my back or some surprise like this. I don't want to sneak= around watching my back, or find it between me and the door.  Other pe= ople think I should be afraid.  Thx B --part1_1d1.13912104.2cd821ad_boundary-- From watsontl@mindspring.com Tue Nov 4 01:46:41 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 18:46:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mountain Lion References: <1d1.13912104.2cd821ad@aol.com> Message-ID: <002d01c3a275$7fc29dc0$5a48b83f@S0029317241> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_002A_01C3A23A.D26E4230 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Wow! Now there's a garden pest I never would have thought of! On the one hand, what an amazing thing to have for a neighbor. On the = other, attacks by these cats, while uncommon, are not unheard of either. = To obtain good advice regarding this situation, contact Arizona Game = and Fish (602-942-3000). They have the expertise you will need, and = most likely should be informed of the cat's presence in a residential = area. Tom ----- Original Message -----=20 From: BeverlyFz2@aol.com=20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Monday, November 03, 2003 2:25 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mountain Lion I live against the South Mountain Preserve off of 22nd street on the = north side of the mountain. I awoke at 2:00 am to the meow of a mountion = lion outside my door. I first though a cat had found a way into the = house it was so loud. This morning there are definitely mountain lion = tracks all around the yard. I measure them at 2.75 inches across. I = spend a lot of time outside and am wondering what's the risk of this = large cat jumping off the roof onto my back or some surprise like this. = I don't want to sneak around watching my back, or find it between me and = the door. Other people think I should be afraid. Thx B ------=_NextPart_000_002A_01C3A23A.D26E4230 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Wow!   Now there's a garden = pest I never=20 would have thought of!
 
On the one hand, what an amazing thing = to have for=20 a neighbor.   On the other, attacks by these cats, while = uncommon, are=20 not unheard of either.   To obtain good advice regarding this=20 situation, contact Arizona Game and Fish (602-942-3000).   They have=20 the expertise you will need, and most likely should be informed of the = cat's=20 presence in a residential area.
 
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 BeverlyFz2@aol.com
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2003 = 2:25=20 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Mountain=20 Lion

I live against the South Mountain Preserve off of = 22nd=20 street on the north side of the mountain. I awoke at 2:00 am to the = meow of a=20 mountion lion outside my door. I first though a cat had found a way = into the=20 house it was so loud. This morning there are definitely mountain lion = tracks=20 all around the yard. I measure them at 2.75 inches across. I spend a = lot of=20 time outside and am wondering what's the risk of this large cat = jumping off=20 the roof onto my back or some surprise like this. I don't want to = sneak around=20 watching my back, or find it between me and the door.  Other = people think=20 I should be afraid.  Thx B = ------=_NextPart_000_002A_01C3A23A.D26E4230-- From pwolterb@Ag.arizona.edu Mon Nov 3 22:32:08 2003 From: pwolterb@Ag.arizona.edu (Paul Wolterbeek) Date: Mon, 03 Nov 2003 15:32:08 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] please announce this week... Message-ID: <3.0.6.32.20031103153208.008b8a60@ag.arizona.edu> Hot Cakes & Cool Tunes Nov. 8 at the Arboretum Master Gardeners who have visited Boyce Thompson Arboretum know this splendid botanical park as a place with more than two miles of walking paths, fall color and spring wildflowers. This Saturday there's a great way to enjoy the Arboretum - with live music from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. during the annual Fall Folk Festival. And here's a special deal for early-arrivals: just $5 buys you a hearty pancake breakfast, the day's admission to Boyce Thompson Arboretum, and also the satisfaction of helping fund scholarships for high school students in Superior. Superior Rotary Club's annual pancake breakfast will be from 8-10 a.m. on Nov. 8; the very same Saturday as the annual live music festival at Boyce Thompson Arboretum. And, since regular adult admission is $6 per day, attending the pancake breakfast even saves a buck on park entry! Bring your family...tell your friends....enjoy a great breakfast in the Arboretum picnic area and stroll the trails at Boyce Thompson Arboretum. Then stay for a day featuring live music "both acoustic and eclectic" on the grounds from 10 a.m. until 4 p.m. at the 3nd Annual Fall Folk Festival. Don't miss this great event! Review the talent lineup and check out photos from the 2002 performances at the website: http://ag.arizona.edu/events/folkfestival.html From edawson@u.arizona.edu Tue Nov 4 16:38:07 2003 From: edawson@u.arizona.edu (edawson@u.arizona.edu) Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 09:38:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311041638.hA4Gc7Ai011866@Ag.arizona.edu> When should I -- or should I -- take my potted bushes, palms, citrus tree and bird of paradise inside the house? From watsontl@mindspring.com Tue Nov 4 01:39:41 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 18:39:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Drying Gourds References: <2f.40faff9b.2cd7b5f6@aol.com> Message-ID: <001b01c3a274$86b26490$5a48b83f@S0029317241> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C3A239.D7CB0CF0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Check this link out: http://www.growinglifestyle.com/s/Drying_Gourds/index.html Everything you could want to know, from the looks of it. Tom ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Pandabear561@aol.com=20 To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Monday, November 03, 2003 6:45 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Drying Gourds Please tell me how to or, why I might find the instructions for drying = gourds. I have tried in the past but, I had no luck. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you, Ginny ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C3A239.D7CB0CF0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Check this link out:
 
http:= //www.growinglifestyle.com/s/Drying_Gourds/index.html
 
Everything you could want to know, from = the looks=20 of it.
 
Tom
 
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Pandabear561@aol.com
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2003 = 6:45=20 AM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Drying = Gourds

Please tell me how to or, = why I might=20 find the instructions for drying gourds.
I have tried in the past = but, I=20 had no luck.
Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you, = Ginny=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C3A239.D7CB0CF0-- From oooohflowers@yahoo.com Tue Nov 4 18:59:01 2003 From: oooohflowers@yahoo.com (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 10:59:01 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Mountain Lion Message-ID: <20031104185901.70305.qmail@web20421.mail.yahoo.com> --0-1346425922-1067972341=:69284 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii B; I would definitely notify the regional wildlife specialist at Arizona Game and Fish right away. His name is Joe Yarchin, 480-981-9400I ext. 217. He's out of the office until Wednesday, but I'm sure he would be interested to know about cats in town! Please let us know what he tells you. Good luck and be careful! Kelly --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Protect your identity with Yahoo! Mail AddressGuard --0-1346425922-1067972341=:69284 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
B;
 
I would definitely notify the regional wildlife specialist at Arizona Game and Fish right away.  His name is Joe Yarchin, 480-981-9400I ext. 217.  He's out of the office until Wednesday, but I'm sure he would be interested to know about cats in town!  Please let us know what he tells you.
 
Good luck and be careful!
 
 
Kelly

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Protect your identity with Yahoo! Mail AddressGuard --0-1346425922-1067972341=:69284-- From oooohflowers@yahoo.com Tue Nov 4 19:08:57 2003 From: oooohflowers@yahoo.com (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 11:08:57 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200311041638.hA4Gc7Ai011866@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20031104190857.91460.qmail@web20413.mail.yahoo.com> --0-1383996402-1067972937=:91396 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii A plant's cold tolerance varies greatly by species, size and health of the plant. It is generally not necessary to move plants indoors, unless you know them to be particularly cold sensitive. The UA publication AZ 1002 Frost Protection should be especially useful. It can be found online with the following link: http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1002.pdf Good luck! Kelly edawson@u.arizona.edu wrote: When should I -- or should I -- take my potted bushes, palms, citrus tree and bird of paradise inside the house? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Protect your identity with Yahoo! Mail AddressGuard --0-1383996402-1067972937=:91396 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
A plant's cold tolerance varies greatly by species, size and health of the plant. It is generally not necessary to move plants indoors, unless you know them to be particularly cold sensitive.  The UA publication  AZ 1002 Frost Protection should be especially useful.  It can be found online with the following link:
Good luck!
 
Kelly
 
 

edawson@u.arizona.edu wrote:
When should I -- or should I -- take my potted bushes, palms, citrus tree and bird of paradise inside the house?

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Protect your identity with Yahoo! Mail AddressGuard --0-1383996402-1067972937=:91396-- From jengay@cox.net Tue Nov 4 20:08:50 2003 From: jengay@cox.net (jengay@cox.net) Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 13:08:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311042008.hA4K8o8o001398@Ag.arizona.edu> I am having a problem selecting a tree for my backyard. There is not a lot of space and I need it to screen a neighbor's house. It is in a pool area. I think I've narrowed it to either Acacia Salicina or Acacia Saligna. Your information does not recommend Acacia Salicina near a pool but does say that it is low maintenance. Why is it not recommended near a pool? From manzorick@qwest.net Wed Nov 5 23:00:39 2003 From: manzorick@qwest.net (manzorick@qwest.net) Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 16:00:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311052300.hA5N0d8o001486@Ag.arizona.edu> When can I plant naked ladies, gladiolas? Will colchius grow here? From rodmcq6@highstream.net Wed Nov 5 23:11:53 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 16:11:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rose buds eaten by black beetles References: <200310271548.h9RFm0Ai016821@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <001c01c3a3f2$34e76960$b531db43@ibmbna6040> I haven't seen an answer to your question of10/27 so I'll try to help. I'm unable to identify the black beetle so I'll tell you what usually works. I would suggest using the insecticide orthene along with a sticker spreader and spray the rose buds only. It will no doubt take more than one application. Systemic insecticides applied to the soil are not always effective on insects that are eating the rose blooms. For the insect identification I would suggest that you take sample insects to U. of A., Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for an opinion. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, October 27, 2003 8:48 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I have black, hard shelled bugs (appx 1/8" long on my roses that I can't seem to get rid of. They are found in the blossom buds, which are stunted and deformed. The plants are healthy, & the insects don't appear on the plants themselves, only inside the flowers. I have used both systemic rose insect control & Malathion with no success. I have questioned several local nurserys, & no one can inentify the bug. Can someone help me? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From Kidolibrarian@yahoo.com Wed Nov 5 03:18:38 2003 From: Kidolibrarian@yahoo.com (Kidolibrarian@yahoo.com) Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 20:18:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311050318.hA53Ic8o007886@Ag.arizona.edu> Will a Black Mission Fig fruit if it is kept trimmed to about 15 feet? From sellickaz@aol.com Wed Nov 5 15:16:48 2003 From: sellickaz@aol.com (sellickaz@aol.com) Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 08:16:48 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311051516.hA5FGm8o020053@Ag.arizona.edu> Hello! I have purchased a "Mr lincoln" red rose bush and as I have never owned roses before, could you tell me if I should plant it in the ground or leave it in the container, should I trim it way back? It has lots of very healthy growth: leaves, etc. I have a spot in the front yard that gets morning and afternoon direct sun and late afternoon filtered sun. Can I plant it now? Thanks for your help!! Barbara Sellick sellickaz@aol.com From jtrog002@aol.com Wed Nov 5 05:19:04 2003 From: jtrog002@aol.com (jtrog002@aol.com) Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 22:19:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311050519.hA55J48o018014@Ag.arizona.edu> Do you know of a site that provides a database containing crop/landscape coefficients for various local plants that can be utilized for irrigation purposes? From oooohflowers@yahoo.com Tue Nov 4 21:19:06 2003 From: oooohflowers@yahoo.com (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 13:19:06 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200311042008.hA4K8o8o001398@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20031104211906.17891.qmail@web20414.mail.yahoo.com> --0-766381076-1067980746=:17784 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Jengay; Actually, Acacia salicina is recommended in UA Publication AZ 1058 Plants for Poolside Landscapes http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1058.pdf for use near a pool. It doesn't usually produce as many flowers as A. saligna, potentially reducing the mess that will fall into the pool. A. salicina also grows taller than its cousin, which may be a benefit when trying to screen out an unwanted view. Visit these sites to see what Mountain States Wholesale Nursery has to say about each of them: http://www.mswn.com/IS-Acacia%20salicina-1.htm http://www.mswn.com/IS-Acacia%20saligna-1.htm Good luck! Kelly jengay@cox.net wrote: I am having a problem selecting a tree for my backyard. There is not a lot of space and I need it to screen a neighbor's house. It is in a pool area. I think I've narrowed it to either Acacia Salicina or Acacia Saligna. Your information does not recommend Acacia Salicina near a pool but does say that it is low maintenance. Why is it not recommended near a pool? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Protect your identity with Yahoo! Mail AddressGuard --0-766381076-1067980746=:17784 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Jengay;
 
Actually, Acacia salicina is recommended in
UA Publication AZ 1058 Plants for Poolside Landscapes
for use near a pool. It doesn't usually produce as many flowers as A. saligna, potentially reducing the mess that will fall into the pool. A. salicina also grows taller than its cousin, which may be a benefit when trying to screen out an unwanted view. 
 
Visit these sites to see what Mountain States Wholesale Nursery has to say about each of them:
 
Good luck!
 
Kelly
 

jengay@cox.net wrote:
I am having a problem selecting a tree for my backyard. There is not a lot of space and I need it to screen a neighbor's house. It is in a pool area. I think I've narrowed it to either Acacia Salicina or Acacia Saligna. Your information does not recommend Acacia Salicina near a pool but does say that it is low maintenance. Why is it not recommended near a pool?

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Protect your identity with Yahoo! Mail AddressGuard --0-766381076-1067980746=:17784-- From oooohflowers@cox.net Thu Nov 6 16:29:20 2003 From: oooohflowers@cox.net (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2003 09:29:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: The University of California has done a lot of work to develop crop coefficients for landscape plants. They provide some Kc data that may be useful to you. Visit these sites: http://www.wateright.org/site2/publications/wucolsb.pdf http://www.owue.water.ca.gov/docs/wucols00.pdf I have not yet found anything published recently about Arizona landscape plants, but there is a publication UA puts out called MC14 Water Requirements for Landscape Plants. It is an older publication and isn't available online, but you can pick it up for free in person at the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension. Good luck and let us know if you find more specific crop coefficient data. Kelly -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of jtrog002@aol.com Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2003 10:19 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Do you know of a site that provides a database containing crop/landscape coefficients for various local plants that can be utilized for irrigation purposes? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From oooohflowers@cox.net Thu Nov 6 15:59:08 2003 From: oooohflowers@cox.net (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2003 08:59:08 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: Kido; Figs produce fruit on current season's growth. That makes it a little easier to decide what limbs to remove without worrying about cutting off all of next season's fruit. You should be able to prune your fig to control the size and still get a good fruit crop. Some folks recommend pruning figs in late winter, while it is dormant and leafless. Be careful not to remove any more than 1/4 - 1/3 of the tree's canopy when you prune. The UA has an excellent pruning publication AZ 1139 Pruning Deciduous Shade Trees can be downloaded free online at http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1139.pdf Good luck with your figs! Kelly Will a Black Mission Fig fruit if it is kept trimmed to about 15 feet? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Joanne.Triplett@pima.gov Thu Nov 6 01:20:51 2003 From: Joanne.Triplett@pima.gov (Joanne Triplett) Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 18:20:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bottlebush Message-ID: <4AC0094C65EDD711AF9500A0C9D189B1DFA584@exchange.co.pima.az.us> Trying to establish in BottleBush my yard. Info desired on maintaining transplants, soil and water needs, pruning. JCT From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Nov 6 14:36:30 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 06 Nov 2003 14:36:30 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] figs for small yards Message-ID: Here in Tucson, we are looking at a new fig variety called Black Jack. It is supposed to be well-adapted and is a dwarf, growing to only about 15 feet. It should be much more realistic for small urban gardens than other varieties. We plan to plant it in our demonstration orchard. You might want to try it. (We found it at Catalina Heights Nursery in Tucson). Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Kidolibrarian@yahoo.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 20:18:38 -0700 (MST) > >Will a Black Mission Fig fruit if it is kept trimmed to about 15 feet? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN Messenger with backgrounds, emoticons and more. http://www.msnmessenger-download.com/tracking/cdp_customize From oooohflowers@cox.net Thu Nov 6 19:58:33 2003 From: oooohflowers@cox.net (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2003 12:58:33 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bottlebush In-Reply-To: <4AC0094C65EDD711AF9500A0C9D189B1DFA584@exchange.co.pima.az.us> Message-ID: JCT; You didn't mention which bottlebrush you are interested in growing, but here's a site that gives you everything you ever wanted to know (and more) about the genus Callistemon: http://farrer.riv.csu.edu.au/ASGAP/callistn.html, it's an Australian site. For limited, but local info, try http://www.desert-tropicals.com/Plants/Myrtaceae/Callistemon_viminalis.html Good luck! Kelly -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Joanne Triplett Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2003 6:21 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bottlebush Trying to establish in BottleBush my yard. Info desired on maintaining transplants, soil and water needs, pruning. JCT _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From PERFLOWERS@aol.com Thu Nov 6 20:16:09 2003 From: PERFLOWERS@aol.com (PERFLOWERS@aol.com) Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2003 15:16:09 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Drying Gourds Message-ID: Ginny, You might try one of the following Gourd organizations about your gourd question: Arizona Gourd - Leif 602-686-3852 - azgourds@hotmail.com Southwest Gourd Assn - Linda 623-853-1243 - SWGA@worldnet.att.net Tolleson Gourd Patch - Anne 623-977-7673 West Valley Gourd Patch - Jean 623-933-5353 - sonnyj2308@aol.com Val From Ashtaroth@lvcm.com Thu Nov 6 20:13:47 2003 From: Ashtaroth@lvcm.com (Lisa Kennedy) Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2003 12:13:47 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] RE: Ironwood and breaking branches Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_010D_01C3A45F.6E0D0020 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have an Ironwood tree in my front yard and every time even the slightest breeze blows through, it snaps the branches off. I don't know how old the tree is it's about 10 feet tall. It is in direct sunlight in our northern exposure front yard. It gets watered twice every other day for about 10 minutes. I do know that the people who lived here before me trimmed back the tree IMMENSELY before selling the house. Did this weaken the tree? Can anything be done to fix it? Thanks. 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January is the time to do major pruning here in the low desert, but because you will have just planted it I would suggest that only a light pruning be done now or in January. When you plant be sure to dig the planting hole two to three times the diameter of the pot, mix in 1/3 to 1/2 mulch with part of the dirt that is used to fill around the root ball. The rose will really appreciate a three inch layer of mulch around the bush before next summer's heat arrives. Mister Lincoln is an excellent red rose and its blossoms are quite fragrant. February is the time to fertilize then be watching for aphids and powdery mildew. Aphids can be controlled with a strong stream of water but you will need to spray for the powdery mildew. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2003 8:16 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Hello! I have purchased a "Mr lincoln" red rose bush and as I have never owned roses before, could you tell me if I should plant it in the ground or leave it in the container, should I trim it way back? It has lots of very healthy growth: leaves, etc. > I have a spot in the front yard that gets morning and afternoon direct sun and late afternoon filtered sun. Can I plant it now? Thanks for your help!! > Barbara Sellick > sellickaz@aol.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From CopOut332@Highstream.net Fri Nov 7 19:54:14 2003 From: CopOut332@Highstream.net (CopOut332@Highstream.net) Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2003 12:54:14 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311071954.hA7JsE8o029591@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a 10 year old African Sumac in my front yard. The roots are sprouting small growth over a large area beneath the tree. Is there any way to stop or slow these sprouts without inuring the tree? From gibshry@cox.net Sat Nov 8 18:03:11 2003 From: gibshry@cox.net (gibshry@cox.net) Date: Sat, 8 Nov 2003 11:03:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311081803.hA8I3B8o014151@Ag.arizona.edu> Is Lantana a good choice to plant in Good- year,AZ. I've a 8 yr old Saguaro. In the past 8-mo it has started to yellow [plant faces south, same as before being moved] from the base to the head. Used Vit.B @ time it was moved. Couple of times a year some cactus food. Now In the last 6-mo the plant is starting to lean to the north. It has always been healthy. From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net Fri Nov 7 23:24:12 2003 From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2003 16:24:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: African Sumac Sprouts References: <200311071954.hA7JsE8o029591@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000a01c3a586$45593220$1953530c@olin> Are you certain they are sprouts from the roots. Mine A.S. shoots are actually sprouts from seeds that I can pull up or dig out. Not to say they can't sprout from the roots, but I've had mine over 20 years I have never had root sprouts. But I did get suckers at the base of the trees that needed to be trimmed annually until they finally gave up. With a sprout from tree roots, one usually needs to dig down and cut it off where it is joined to the root, then cover it up again to slow it down a bit. ----- Original Message ----- From: > I have a 10 year old African Sumac in my front yard. The roots are sprouting small growth over a large area beneath the tree. Is there any way to stop or slow these sprouts without inuring the tree? From rodmcq6@highstream.net Fri Nov 7 23:35:02 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2003 16:35:02 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Desert Ironwood (Olneya tesota) References: Message-ID: <003401c3a587$c5511820$0504e043@ibmbna6040> Lisa and Robert, Sorry, but your irrigation practice of watering the Desert Ironwood twice every other day for 10 minutes is gradually killing the tree. The Desert Ironwood is a desert adapted tree and very drought tolerant. It should be deep watered every two to three weeks during summer and once every month or two during winter. Watering for such a short period of time allows the water to penetrate only a few inches deep, the roots seek out the water, the salt which is in our water is left in the root zone when the water evaporates and salt is a poison to plants. By deep watering each time you water, the salt is flushed out of the root zone and the roots are encouraged to grow deeper away from the hot soil surface. You should change your irrigation practice gradually so that the tree will acustom itself to proper irrigation. The heavy pruning that the previous owner did certainly did not help the tree. Recommended practice dictates that no more than 15% should be pruned at one time and no more than 25% in one year. An excellent bulletin titled LANDSCAPE WATERING BY THE NUMBERS is available free at most nurseries and your cities Water Conservation Dept. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --- Original Message ----- From: "Lisa Kennedy" To: Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2003 1:13 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] RE: Ironwood and breaking branches > I have an Ironwood tree in my front yard and every time even the slightest > breeze blows through, it snaps the branches off. I don't know how old the > tree is it's about 10 feet tall. It is in direct sunlight in our northern > exposure front yard. It gets watered twice every other day for about 10 > minutes. I do know that the people who lived here before me trimmed back > the tree IMMENSELY before selling the house. Did this weaken the tree? Can > anything be done to fix it? > > Thanks. > > Lisa & Robert > From rodmcq6@highstream.net Fri Nov 7 22:54:45 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2003 15:54:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] African Sumac sucker growth References: <200311071954.hA7JsE8o029591@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <001e01c3a582$253270a0$0504e043@ibmbna6040> Sucker growth appears to be the norm for the African Sumac. I have several of them and it is a continuous battle. I have used Roundup on them with some success (this is not a recommended practice because it could kill the tree). Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, November 07, 2003 12:54 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I have a 10 year old African Sumac in my front yard. The roots are sprouting small growth over a large area beneath the tree. Is there any way to stop or slow these sprouts without inuring the tree? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From oooohflowers@cox.net Sun Nov 9 00:52:10 2003 From: oooohflowers@cox.net (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Sat, 8 Nov 2003 17:52:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] RE: Ironwood and breaking branches In-Reply-To: Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C3A621.08EE6A80 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello Lisa and Robert; I'm sorry to hear about your problems with your Ironwood tree. They are such magnificent trees both wild in the desert and in the home landscape. There are a number of plants that carry the common name Ironwood, but I am going to assume that you are talking about Olneya tesota, the Sonoran Desert native that has grayish foliage and fierce thorns. The folks at Arid Zone Trees have an article that discusses care of Ironwoods, it can be found on the web at: http://www.aridzonetrees.com/aztimes/aztimes95/jul95vol2-7.htm You are absolutely correct in your concerned about the pruning and watering of the tree. Ironwood trees grow very slowly and require minimal pruning. Sometimes, when trees are exposed to very harsh pruning they produce lots of weakly attached, upright shoots called watersprouts. These watersprouts are tree's way of replacing lost foliage. Ironwood trees need leaves do photosynthesize and produce their food. Although the tree temporarily solves the food shortage problem, watersprouts, as mentioned previously, are weakly attached to the stem where they are produced and break off very easily (as you noticed). Personally, I wouldn't prune the tree again, but down the road it may require some light pruning to reduce hazards. Here is a link to an excellent pruning publication from the UA that should be very helpful: http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1139.pdf Ironwood trees are native to some of the driest areas of our desert. In the wild they survive on rainfall alone. In a landscape, we should irrigate an Ironwood long enough to get it established, really only for the first year or two (we will probably hear from some folks who beg to differ). I wouldn't water it at all during the winter (Nov - Feb) and once each of the rest of the months. Every time we irrigate a plant, we should wet the entire root zone. This means watering down to a depth of at least three feet under the entire canopy. If you are using a drip system, and depending on your soil type, this would probably take several hours. The Arizona Municipal Water Users Association publishes some wonderful, free brochures that can help you with your landscape irrigation: Landscape Watering by the Numbers and Xeriscape are both must-haves. Visit AMWUA's site to find out the nearest place to pick them up: http://www.amwua.org/xscp-brochure-waterbynumbers.htm I hope that with a little time and TLC, your Ironwood tree recovers and becomes a beautiful tree. Good luck! Kelly > -----Original Message----- > From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu > [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu] > Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2003 1:14 PM > To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu > Subject: [Arid_gardener] RE: Ironwood and breaking branches > > I have an Ironwood tree in my front yard and every time even the slightest > breeze blows through, it snaps the branches off. I don't know how old > the tree is it's about 10 feet tall. It is in direct sunlight in our > northern exposure front yard. It gets watered twice every other day for > about 10 minutes. I do know that the people who lived here before me > trimmed back the tree IMMENSELY before selling the house. Did this weaken > the tree? 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How far away should we plant from underground utility lines (gas, water, sewer and electrical)and a fire hydrant? For future reference were is this information published? Should I contact each utility company to get there recommendations? Is there a list of trees not recommended for such areas? -Chris From agave@cox.net Mon Nov 10 02:53:22 2003 From: agave@cox.net (agave@cox.net) Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2003 19:53:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311100253.hAA2rM8o028418@Ag.arizona.edu> I just transplanted an fouquieria spendens/ Octillo. How much should I water and for how long. I live in east mesa with native soil, did amend with the Kellogg product that has rice hulls to ariate soil some. From perucreek@aol.com Mon Nov 10 01:13:41 2003 From: perucreek@aol.com (perucreek@aol.com) Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2003 18:13:41 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311100113.hAA1Df8o020665@Ag.arizona.edu> We have a Texas Honey Mesquite with yellowing leaves. Its about 2 1/2years old. It was on irrigation , three 1 gal. drippers, the first 1 1/2 year. The past year we its been on a one gallon dripper. We live in Saddlebrooke, Northeast of Catalina. So is it getting too much water or did not get enough? From cchare@qwest.net Sun Nov 9 22:26:35 2003 From: cchare@qwest.net (cchare@qwest.net) Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2003 15:26:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311092226.hA9MQZ8o007722@Ag.arizona.edu> Something is eating my potted annuals, particularly my petunias. Birds, doves and quail, hang around the pots, seemingly eating the plants, but perhaps they are eating bugs that are eating the plants. I have been spraying the plants with insect repellent and a product called Repel (for insects and animals). Is there some home made solution which could be used? Thanks. From drgarnett@msn.com Mon Nov 10 03:59:11 2003 From: drgarnett@msn.com (Donald Garnett) Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2003 20:59:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Ironwood and breaking branches Message-ID: Dear Lisa & Robert: I don't know how the previous owner's pruning of your ironwood might have affected it (without seeing the tree), but your watering practices are not the best for this tree. Ironwood is a drought-tolerant desert native. At this time of year it should be watered deeply (meaning to a soil depth of three feet, or several hours if you have a drip system) no more than once every 2 or 3 weeks - once a month during the winter. We have an ironwood about the same size as yours. Watering only once or twice a month, its very full - actually too full, so I have to think about pruning it again (ugh). These trees actually do quite better with minimum care, although you have to keep in mind that we are in the middle of a long-standing drought, so some supplemental watering is recommended. Good luck Don Garnett (not a Master Gardener) Tucson From meljoaz@earthlink.net Mon Nov 10 17:48:59 2003 From: meljoaz@earthlink.net (meljoaz@earthlink.net) Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 10:48:59 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311101749.hAAHmx8o015918@Ag.arizona.edu> We just planted a new dwarf Arizona Sweet Orange Tree. We notice that many leaves are curled and deformed looking. It does not appear that any bugs are on them - What is the problem? We also have a Mexican lime tree that has just a few leaves that look similar. Thank you for any help you may offer From ac93041@aol.com Mon Nov 10 19:20:20 2003 From: ac93041@aol.com (ac93041@aol.com) Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 14:20:20 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning Palo Brea and Jacaranda trees Message-ID: <84.1c0e449e.2ce13ef4@aol.com> --part1_84.1c0e449e.2ce13ef4_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I am new to the Phoenix, Arizone area. Can you give me any help on the pruning of Palo Brea and Jacaranda trees? Al Crandall ac93041@aol.com --part1_84.1c0e449e.2ce13ef4_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable   I am new to the Phoenix, Arizone area. Can you=20= give me any help on the pruning of Palo Brea and Jacaranda trees?


            &nbs= p;            &n= bsp;            =   Al Crandall

            &nbs= p;            &n= bsp;            = ac93041@aol.com --part1_84.1c0e449e.2ce13ef4_boundary-- From ttrew@bgcmp.org Mon Nov 10 19:47:53 2003 From: ttrew@bgcmp.org (ttrew@bgcmp.org) Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 12:47:53 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311101947.hAAJlr8o010618@Ag.arizona.edu> I just discovered some western subterranean termite nymphs in the core of a branch to my large, frontyard Arizona ash tree. The branch was dead and tore away from the tree very easily. I've been keeping my eye on this tree because, during this past spring, I noticed that the bark was blistering off in a vertical path starting about 5 feet from the base. At the very top of the blistered bark (about 12 feet from the bsae), I then noticed some holes a bit larger than the diameter of a pencil. At first I thought that ants were doing the damage, because I would always see ants racing along the damaged bark. The ash tree is about 30 years old. I have another ash tree in the front yard, but it does not appear to have any damage. What is the recommended course of action? I have not found any termite tunnels around my block home. I am going nuts thinking about what I should do. Please, please provide me with your advice. I fear that this ash tree may be suffering from both termites and borers. I look forward to receiving your response. You may call me at 602.343.1211 (work) or 623.937.5860 (home) if you wish. Thank you. Tricia Trew From biankis@hotmail.com Tue Nov 11 05:17:32 2003 From: biankis@hotmail.com (biankis@hotmail.com) Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 22:17:32 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311110517.hAB5HW8o005007@Ag.arizona.edu> Does a gardenia stand a chance for survival in Tucson? I just bought one I have in a pot under my porch. My questions are what should I do to keep it alive? How much sun does the plant need? What type of sun is better morning? How much water? How big of a pot does it need? As you can tell by my questions I am fairly new at this gardening thing, I bought the plant without knowing that our desert climate was not the best for gardenias. I appreciate any advice. Thank You. -Bianca From rodmcq6@highstream.net Mon Nov 10 23:37:03 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 16:37:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus with curled leaves References: <200311101749.hAAHmx8o015918@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <004201c3a7e3$8ce8fd00$ae31db43@ibmbna6040> A tiny insect called thrips is probably responsible for the curled and distorted leaves on your citrus trees. The damage is only cosmetic and usually does not require any treatment. Good Luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, November 10, 2003 10:48 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > We just planted a new dwarf Arizona Sweet Orange Tree. We notice that many leaves are curled and deformed looking. It does not appear that any bugs are on them - What is the problem? We also have a Mexican lime tree that has just a few leaves that look similar. Thank you for any help you may offer > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rodmcq6@highstream.net Mon Nov 10 23:31:29 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 16:31:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning Palo Brea and Jacaranda trees References: <84.1c0e449e.2ce13ef4@aol.com> Message-ID: <003601c3a7e2$c6596260$ae31db43@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0033_01C3A7A8.18261880 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi Al, The Master Gardener Manual has excellent info on pruning trees in the = chapter on Arborculture which is on line at=20 http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/=20 I am in the process of pruning about 40 Palo Breas and two Jacarandas, = If you live in the east valley and can come by in the mornings I will be = happy to show you do how to prune them. Email me back if you are = interested. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist----- Original Message -----=20 From: ac93041@aol.com=20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Monday, November 10, 2003 12:20 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning Palo Brea and Jacaranda trees I am new to the Phoenix, Arizone area. Can you give me any help on = the pruning of Palo Brea and Jacaranda trees? Al Crandall ac93041@aol.com ------=_NextPart_000_0033_01C3A7A8.18261880 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi Al,
The Master Gardener Manual has excellent info on = pruning trees=20 in  the chapter on Arborculture which is on line at
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs= /garden/mg/ 
 
I am in the process of pruning about 40 Palo Breas and two = Jacarandas, If=20 you live in the east valley and can come by in the mornings I will be = happy=20 to show you do how to prune them. Email me back if you are=20 interested.
 
Good luck.
 
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist----- Original Message -----
From:=20 ac93041@aol.com=20
Sent: Monday, November 10, 2003 = 12:20=20 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Pruning Palo=20 Brea and Jacaranda trees

  I am new to the Phoenix, Arizone area. Can = you give=20 me any help on the pruning of Palo Brea and Jacaranda=20 = trees?


         &= nbsp;           &n= bsp;           &nb= sp;     =20 Al=20 = Crandall

         &nb= sp;           &nbs= p;            = ;    =20 ac93041@aol.com=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0033_01C3A7A8.18261880-- From Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com Mon Nov 10 20:49:31 2003 From: Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com (Zelhart Alan-rpcs30) Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 13:49:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B9930707DD70CB@az33exm25.corp.mot.com> Leaf curling such as you describe is generally caused by thrips. Which are very hard to see with the naked eye. The damage is only cosmetic, and will not harm your fruit. -- Chat with you later, Alan -- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ----- Alan Zelhart gizmoaz@cox.net Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- ***** This will shut down Windows, do you want to play another game ? -----Original Message----- From: meljoaz@earthlink.net [mailto:meljoaz@earthlink.net] Sent: Monday, November 10, 2003 10:49 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We just planted a new dwarf Arizona Sweet Orange Tree. We notice that many leaves are curled and deformed looking. It does not appear that any bugs are on them - What is the problem? We also have a Mexican lime tree that has just a few leaves that look similar. Thank you for any help you may offer _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From kimorph@att.net Wed Nov 12 02:17:49 2003 From: kimorph@att.net (kimorph@att.net) Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 02:17:49 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] care of citrus trees in az Message-ID: <111220030217.19451.51cd@att.net> hello - we are new homeowners in az with; grapefruit lemon/lime orange trees in our backyard. we are having a problem with fruit splitting open as they ripen - are we overwatering or do we have other problems??? many trhanx jim and mary kimorph@att.net From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Nov 11 15:26:23 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 15:26:23 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] ocotillo care Message-ID: Answer to a similar question: Was the ocotillo bareroot or container-grown? These are treated differently and it would help us better answer your question. Best to plant this shrub (its not a cactus) in the fall when temperatures are cooler and the Ocotillo flat-headed larvae borers are not active. Remember this plants does not produce root hairs, so they take a long time to establish after bare-root planting. If any roots are broken or frayed at transplanting, make clean cuts to remove damaged portion. Dust roots with sulfur prior to planting to prevent root rot. Do not mulch or fertilize plants. Provide with well draining soil and avoid garden locations where plants receive excess moisture. If watering with drip irrigation place emitters at least 2 feet from base of plant. (Information taken from a book called Pruning, Planting and Care by Eric A. Johnson). I water our ocotillo rarely, and then only to supplement the rainfall we receive in Tucson. At most, I water the plant five or six times a year. In between rains/waterings, you would swear the plant was quite dead, except that the wands remain flexible. I do not fertilize this plant, and have been told that such is unnecessary for a native plant. The flowers are seasonal, showing in April, and are an annual event. I have seen mine bloom without a single leaf visible and when the wands are thick with leaves. It seems to make no difference - except that the leafless flowering is such a strange sight. By the way, hummingbirds love the blossoms. I have seen ocotillos kept perpetually in leaf by regular watering, but have read that this is not recommended, as the roots in moist soil might rot. And in fact, I have seen such ocotillos blown over in strong winds on a number of occasions, an indication that the root systems were not robust enough to hold the plant upright. To briefly summarize, do not mulch, do not fertilize, do not use vitamins; water sparingly to keep the soil moist - not wet, until established. Ocotillo are naturally leafless most of the year; the whole plant looks 'dead' until rain stimulates leaves to sprout. These leaves die and drop quickly when soil moisture dries out. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: agave@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2003 19:53:22 -0700 (MST) > >I just transplanted an fouquieria spendens/ Octillo. How much should I >water and for how long. I live in east mesa with native soil, did amend >with the Kellogg product that has rice hulls to ariate soil some. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Great deals on high-speed Internet access as low as $26.95. https://broadband.msn.com (Prices may vary by service area.) From sealoveraz@aol.com Tue Nov 11 14:23:21 2003 From: sealoveraz@aol.com (sealoveraz@aol.com) Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 07:23:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311111423.hABENL8o028736@Ag.arizona.edu> My lemon tree looks like it's dying. The leaves are turning yellow, the fruit is rotting and some of the branches we've cut backlook dead with dried up shriveled leaves on it. The tree is about 7 feet tall so not a huge one. Can I save it? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Nov 11 15:21:13 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 15:21:13 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] small urban lot, utility lines Message-ID: this is an excelent question. In researching an answer, I did not find specific guidelines for Arizona, but did find some good resources (see below). In general, you want to contact Blue Stake first to locate all underground utilities. Avoid planting over the lines. For trees, plant far enough away that the tree will not be destroyed if the utility has to be dug up. Linda Drew Master Gardener =========================== GOOD GENERAL information about placement (from U. of Ohio): http://ohioline.osu.edu/b845/b845_2.html Trees may cause problems by clogging storm sewers, drains and sewage systems with flowers, fruits, leaves or roots. Once the tree root gets into a sewer it will find water, air and nutrients that allow it to grow rapidly and clog the sewer. Fortunately, modern sewer installations involve cemented pipe that greatly reduces or eliminates this problem. Although these underground utilities need servicing infrequently, thought should be given to ensure that the lines could be dug up and serviced without destroying permanent plantings, such as trees. ------ Information from Miami/Dade, Florida: As a general rule, trees that will grow to a maximum height of less than 20 feet can be planted below or very close to overhead utility lines. Trees that top out at 30 feet need to be planted at least 20 feet from all surrounding utility lines. Large trees (taller than 30 feet when mature) should be planted at least 30 feet from all surrounding utility lines. Besides overhead lines, you need to remember that there are cables and pipes buried underground as well. For a free underground utility check of your property, contact “Sunshine State One” at 1.800.432.4770 ["BLUE STAKE" service in Arizona]. This service provides a comprehensive analysis of your property and lets you know where the utilities are buried on your property so you don’t accidentally damage them while planting your new tree. You will also want to plant your new tree a distance from these utilities so its roots don’t interfere with buried cables and pipes. ----- Trees and shrubs planted over underground utilities may be damaged or completely removed if utility lines must be dug up for service. (Benton, Washington) >From: freeair@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2003 15:03:06 -0700 (MST) > >We are planning a landscape design for as small urban lot in Phoenix. How >far away should we plant from underground utility lines (gas, water, sewer >and electrical)and a fire hydrant? For future reference were is this >information published? Should I contact each utility company to get there >recommendations? Is there a list of trees not recommended for such areas? > >-Chris > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ >From Beethoven to the Rolling Stones, your favorite music is always playing on MSN Radio Plus. No ads, no talk. Trial month FREE! http://join.msn.com/?page=offers/premiumradio From oooohflowers@cox.net Wed Nov 12 02:17:23 2003 From: oooohflowers@cox.net (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 19:17:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200311110517.hAB5HW8o005007@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Hi Bianca; You can grow gardenias in our deserts if you give them some special care and have luck on your side. I know people that have done very well with them and others (myself included) that have killed them in record time. Gardenias prefer acidic soil (our native soils are alkaline, just the opposite of what gardenias need). You are probably best off growing them in pots in a location where they get just a little sun each day, perhaps a NE exposure. Plant them in potting soil and fertilize them with special fertilizer for acid-loving plants. They might also require some supplemental iron as well. The larger the pot that you plant them in, the less often you will have to water. A nice 5-gallon container ought to suffice, make sure it has drainage holes in the bottom. This website provides some specific details about caring for gardenias: http://www.desert-tropicals.com/Plants/Rubiaceae/Gardenia_jasminoides.html Don't get discouraged if your gardenia doesn't make it. There are lots of other beautiful, fragrant plants that you can grow that won't require nearly as much fuss. If your gardenia does make it, you probably have an extremely green thumb and can grow anything! Good luck. Kelly -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of biankis@hotmail.com Sent: Monday, November 10, 2003 10:18 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Does a gardenia stand a chance for survival in Tucson? I just bought one I have in a pot under my porch. My questions are what should I do to keep it alive? How much sun does the plant need? What type of sun is better morning? How much water? How big of a pot does it need? As you can tell by my questions I am fairly new at this gardening thing, I bought the plant without knowing that our desert climate was not the best for gardenias. I appreciate any advice. Thank You. -Bianca _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From rodmcq6@highstream.net Tue Nov 11 22:48:32 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 15:48:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite watering References: <200311100113.hAA1Df8o020665@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <003601c3a8a5$f06dbe20$a52c0a3f@ibmbna6040> Since you didn't tell us how long or how often you watered your mesquite it is difficult to answer your question. However since you are only using a single one gallon dripper for watering your two year mesquite I suspect that the tree is not getting enough water. A one gallon dripper is adequate for watering a single petunia. Check out this website for info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Also available at many nurseries is a free booklet titled LANDSCAPE WATERING BY THE NUMBERS. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ---- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2003 6:13 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > We have a Texas Honey Mesquite with yellowing leaves. Its about 2 1/2years old. > It was on irrigation , three 1 gal. drippers, the first 1 1/2 year. The past year we its been on a one gallon dripper. > We live in Saddlebrooke, Northeast of Catalina. > So is it getting too much water or did not get enough? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From oooohflowers@cox.net Tue Nov 11 22:15:53 2003 From: oooohflowers@cox.net (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 15:15:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200311101947.hAAJlr8o010618@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Hi Tricia; For what it's worth, termites and most borers don't attack healthy trees. We can think of them as a clean-up crew, disposing of dead plant material. Borers usually attack trees that are showing signs of stress, often as a result of over-pruning or under-irrigation. Ash trees require a lot of water and, over time, often decline after a life-long struggle with insufficient irrigation. Remember that every time you irrigate your trees, the water should penetrate to at least 3 feet deep under the entire canopy of the tree. In the summertime, those ash trees should be watered that much every week. I wouldn't be surprised to find extensive decay in your tree. The borers and termites are just making their living off of the tree's misfortune. Chemical controls that are available for termites aren't labeled for use on living trees, so they will be very difficult to get rid of. If the tree isn't of significant value, I would consider removing it. If this is completely out of the question, you might contract a certified arborist to take a look and see how extensive the damage is to the tree and what can be done to hold it together. Here is a link to a publication that can help you find a qualified arborist: http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1003.pdf Good luck and let us know what happens. Kelly -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of ttrew@bgcmp.org Sent: Monday, November 10, 2003 12:48 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I just discovered some western subterranean termite nymphs in the core of a branch to my large, frontyard Arizona ash tree. The branch was dead and tore away from the tree very easily. I've been keeping my eye on this tree because, during this past spring, I noticed that the bark was blistering off in a vertical path starting about 5 feet from the base. At the very top of the blistered bark (about 12 feet from the bsae), I then noticed some holes a bit larger than the diameter of a pencil. At first I thought that ants were doing the damage, because I would always see ants racing along the damaged bark. The ash tree is about 30 years old. I have another ash tree in the front yard, but it does not appear to have any damage. What is the recommended course of action? I have not found any termite tunnels around my block home. I am going nuts thinking about what I should do. Please, please provide me with your advice. I fear that this ash tree may be suffering from both termites and borers. I look forward to receiving your response. You may call me at 602.343.1211 (work) or 623.937.5860 (home) if you wish. Thank you. Tricia Trew _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From oneredpepperdesign@hotmail.com Tue Nov 11 21:47:51 2003 From: oneredpepperdesign@hotmail.com (oneredpepperdesign@hotmail.com) Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 14:47:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311112147.hABLlp8o021571@Ag.arizona.edu> When is the average time for the Sauguaro to begin blooming, and how long after they are pollinated does the fruit appear? Also if a flower is not polinated, does it just dry up and fall off; how long does that process take? From HONOR@CHA.FORTHNET.GR Tue Nov 11 13:45:26 2003 From: HONOR@CHA.FORTHNET.GR (honor & jonathan bartley) Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 15:45:26 +0200 Subject: [Arid_gardener] fire damage to pine trees Message-ID: <000801c3a85a$10d62ae0$afb810d5@CPQ63428334105> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C3A86A.D35E53C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable We live in North Western Crete (Greece). In our garden we planted = about five years ago some pine trees which have flourished. However, = two weeks ago we suffered a bad fire in the area which ravaged our = garden. /The fire went through very quickly .. about four minutes .. = and the damage to the trees is not so much burning as scorching. The = needles have now lost their greeness and look grey/green. They are not = dropping and will not pull out. Are the needles irrevocably damaged or = will they recover? Does a pine tree have the ability to grow new = needles on the same branches? Will the trees survive with their = grey/green needles? It is important we know this as otherwise we will have to cut down the = trees and start all over again. Your advice would be very much appreciated. Regards, Jonathan & Honor Bartley ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C3A86A.D35E53C0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
We live in North Western Crete=20 (Greece).   In our garden we planted about five years ago some = pine=20 trees which have flourished.   However, two weeks ago we = suffered a=20 bad fire in the area which ravaged our garden.   /The fire = went=20 through very quickly .. about four minutes .. and the damage to the = trees is not=20 so much burning as scorching.   The needles have now lost = their=20 greeness and look grey/green.   They are not dropping and will = not=20 pull out.   Are the needles irrevocably damaged or will they=20 recover?   Does a pine tree have the ability to grow new = needles on=20 the same branches?   Will the trees survive with their = grey/green=20 needles?
It is important we know this as = otherwise we=20 will have to cut down the trees and start all over again.
Your advice would be very much=20 appreciated.
Regards,
Jonathan & Honor=20 Bartley
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C3A86A.D35E53C0-- From oooohflowers@cox.net Wed Nov 12 16:18:36 2003 From: oooohflowers@cox.net (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 09:18:36 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200311081803.hA8I3B8o014151@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Hi gibsshry; Lantana is an excellent choice for Goodyear, AZ. They come in a rainbow of colors and do very well in our hot, dry climate. They do suffer from frost damage and may require some pruning in the spring, after the last frost. UA publication AZ 1110 Groundcovers for Arizona Landscapes addresses the lantanas and can be found online at http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1110.pdf Your saguaro sounds like it's in trouble. How often are you watering it? Saguaros usually do quite well on rainfall alone. They are very sensitive to over watering and require good soil drainage. If their roots stay wet, they can rot and the plant dies as a result. They also do not require fertilizer, as they are adapted to our desert soils. Has the plant been exposed to trenching, construction activities, chemical exposures or other damaging factors? I would investigate the root system. Have they grown since transplant? Are they wet? Let us know what you find. Good luck. Kelly -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of gibshry@cox.net Sent: Saturday, November 08, 2003 11:03 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Is Lantana a good choice to plant in Good- year,AZ. I've a 8 yr old Saguaro. In the past 8-mo it has started to yellow [plant faces south, same as before being moved] from the base to the head. Used Vit.B @ time it was moved. Couple of times a year some cactus food. Now In the last 6-mo the plant is starting to lean to the north. It has always been healthy. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From oooohflowers@cox.net Wed Nov 12 16:08:32 2003 From: oooohflowers@cox.net (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 09:08:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200311112147.hABLlp8o021571@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C3A8FC.8BF79770 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello red pepper; Saguaros usually begin blooming anywhere from late April through June, depending on latitude and elevation. Fruits ripen approximately 30 days later (bringing white winged doves into the area in huge numbers). Flowers last 24 hours, opening at night and presenting their pollen. In Mexico and Southern Arizona, saguaros may be pollinated by certain bats. Here, in the northern reaches of the saguaro's range, left-over pollen is picked up and transferred by bees. Bees do a pretty good job of it, luckily for the saguaro. Unpollinated flowers usually shrivel up, but don't completely dry out, and fall off within a day or so. I ate a spent flower on a dare once and it was actually quite tasty! For more information on the life history of the saguaro and other Sonoran Desert organisms read A Natural History of the Sonoran Desert , a truly wonderful book edited by Stephen Phillips and Pat Comus. You can find excerpts online at: http://www.desertmuseum.org/books/nhsd_cacti.html I hope this helps. Kelly -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of oneredpepperdesign@hotmail.com Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2003 2:48 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When is the average time for the Sauguaro to begin blooming, and how long after they are pollinated does the fruit appear? Also if a flower is not polinated, does it just dry up and fall off; how long does that process take? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C3A8FC.8BF79770 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hello red pepper;

Saguaros usually begin = blooming=20 anywhere from late April through June, depending on latitude and=20 elevation.  Fruits ripen approximately 30 days later (bringing = white winged=20 doves into the area in huge numbers).  Flowers last 24 hours, = opening at=20 night and presenting their pollen.  In Mexico and Southern Arizona, = saguaros may be pollinated by certain bats.  Here, in the northern = reaches=20 of the saguaro's range, left-over pollen is picked up and transferred by = bees.  Bees do a pretty good job of it, luckily for the = saguaro. =20 Unpollinated flowers usually shrivel up, but don't completely dry out, = and fall=20 off within a day or so.  I ate a spent flower on a dare once and it = was=20 actually quite tasty!


For more information on the life = history of the=20 saguaro and other Sonoran Desert organisms read A Natural History of = the=20 Sonoran Desert , a truly wonderful book edited by Stephen Phillips = and Pat=20 Comus.
You can find excerpts online at: http://www.desertmuseum.org/books/nhsd_cacti.html
=

I hope this helps.

 
 
 
Kelly
 
 


-----Original Message-----
From:=20 arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu
[mailto:arid_gardener-a= dmin@Ag.arizona.edu]On=20 Behalf Of
oneredpepperdesign@hotmail.com
Sent: Tuesday, November = 11, 2003=20 2:48 PM
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Question=20 from Home-Hort WWW page


When is the average time for the = Sauguaro to=20 begin blooming, and how long after they are pollinated does the fruit = appear?=20 Also if a flower is not polinated, does it just dry up and fall off; how = long=20 does that process=20 take?


_______________________________________________
Arid_= gardener=20 mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener<= BR>

 ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C3A8FC.8BF79770-- From oooohflowers@cox.net Wed Nov 12 15:32:24 2003 From: oooohflowers@cox.net (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 08:32:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] care of citrus trees in az In-Reply-To: <111220030217.19451.51cd@att.net> Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C3A8F7.7F39AAA0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Jim and Mary; I found the answer to your question at the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension Home Horticulture website: http://cals.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm Citrus fruit split Inappropriate water management leads to sunburn, or tough rind that is then unable to expand as fruit matures. There is nothing to be done for this season, monitor irrigation carefully next summer. One summer, when I just couldn't drag myself outside to water my trees, my citrus and my pomegranates split! Good luck Kelly -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of kimorph@att.net Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2003 7:18 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] care of citrus trees in az hello - we are new homeowners in az with; grapefruit lemon/lime orange trees in our backyard. we are having a problem with fruit splitting open as they ripen - are we over watering or do we have other problems??? many trhanx jim and mary kimorph@att.net _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C3A8F7.7F39AAA0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hi Jim and Mary;

I found the answer to your question at the Maricopa = County=20 Cooperative Extension Home Horticulture website: h= ttp://cals.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm &n= bsp;

Citrus fruit split
Inappropriate water = management leads=20 to sunburn, or tough rind that is then unable to expand as fruit = matures. There=20 is nothing to be done for this season, monitor irrigation carefully next = summer.

One summer, when I just = couldn't drag=20 myself outside to water my trees, my citrus and my pomegranates = split!

 
Good luck

Kelly

 
 




-----Original Message-----
From:=20 arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu
[mailto:arid_gardener-a= dmin@Ag.arizona.edu]On=20 Behalf Of kimorph@att.net
Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2003 7:18 = PM
To:=20 arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: [Arid_gardener] care of citrus = trees in=20 az


hello - we are new homeowners in az=20 with;
     grapefruit
     = lemon/lime
     orange
trees in our = backyard.  we=20 are having a problem with fruit splitting open as
they ripen - are we = over=20 watering or do we have other problems???

   many=20 trhanx   jim and mary   =20 kimorph@att.net
_______________________________________________
Ari= d_gardener=20 mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener<= BR>

 ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C3A8F7.7F39AAA0-- From cchare@qwest.net Wed Nov 12 22:10:26 2003 From: cchare@qwest.net (cchare@qwest.net) Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 15:10:26 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311122210.hACMAQ8o005140@Ag.arizona.edu> I have quail in my back yard, and they are eating my potted plants. (I know that many of you don't believe they do this, but read this from the internet:"Gambel’s quail eat leaves, shoots, some fruit, and a few insects." What spray can I use to keep the birds from eating the plants? Thanks. Curtis Hare From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Nov 13 13:35:10 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 13:35:10 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Quail in the garden Message-ID: I don't know of any sprays that would deter the quail. The most effective deterent is exclusion -- putting up a barrier to keep them out, usually chicken wire. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: cchare@qwest.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 15:10:26 -0700 (MST) > >I have quail in my back yard, and they are eating my potted plants. (I >know that many of you don't believe they do this, but read this from the >internet:"Gambel’s quail eat leaves, shoots, some fruit, and a few >insects." What spray can I use to keep the birds from eating the plants? >Thanks. Curtis Hare > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Send a QuickGreet with MSN Messenger http://www.msnmessenger-download.com/tracking/cdp_games From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Nov 13 14:21:01 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 14:21:01 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] termites in ash tree Message-ID: Kelly's answer is excellent. I checked with the UA entomologist and he stated The tree sounds like it has other problems which makes it available to wood borers. Borers and termites are only working at recycling dead wood. There is no reason to think they are causing any problems to the ash tree. Any course of action would be to find out if there are water or nutrient problems or some physical problem with the tree. The termites and borers are a result of other damage, NOT the cause of the damage. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Ooooh Flowers!" >To: , >Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 15:15:53 -0700 > >Hi Tricia; > >For what it's worth, termites and most borers don't attack healthy trees. >We can think of them as a clean-up crew, disposing of dead plant material. >Borers usually attack trees that are showing signs of stress, often as a >result of over-pruning or under-irrigation. Ash trees require a lot of >water and, over time, often decline after a life-long struggle with >insufficient irrigation. >Remember that every time you irrigate your trees, the water should >penetrate >to at least 3 feet deep under the entire canopy of the tree. In the >summertime, those ash trees should be watered that much every week. > >I wouldn't be surprised to find extensive decay in your tree. The borers >and termites are just making their living off of the tree's misfortune. >Chemical controls that are available for termites aren't labeled for use on >living trees, so they will be very difficult to get rid of. If the tree >isn't of significant value, I would consider removing it. If this is >completely out of the question, you might contract a certified arborist to >take a look and see how extensive the damage is to the tree and what can be >done to hold it together. Here is a link to a publication that can help >you >find a qualified arborist: http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1003.pdf > >Good luck and let us know what happens. > > >Kelly > > > > >-----Original Message----- >From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu >[mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of ttrew@bgcmp.org >Sent: Monday, November 10, 2003 12:48 PM >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > >I just discovered some western subterranean termite nymphs in the core of a >branch to my large, frontyard Arizona ash tree. The branch was dead and >tore away from the tree very easily. > >I've been keeping my eye on this tree because, during this past spring, I >noticed that the bark was blistering off in a vertical path starting about >5 >feet from the base. At the very top of the blistered bark (about 12 feet >from the bsae), I then noticed some holes a bit larger than the diameter of >a pencil. At first I thought that ants were doing the damage, because I >would always see ants racing along the damaged bark. > >The ash tree is about 30 years old. I have another ash tree in the front >yard, but it does not appear to have any damage. > >What is the recommended course of action? I have not found any termite >tunnels around my block home. I am going nuts thinking about what I should >do. Please, please provide me with your advice. I fear that this ash tree >may be suffering from both termites and borers. > >I look forward to receiving your response. You may call me at 602.343.1211 >(work) or 623.937.5860 (home) if you wish. Thank you. > >Tricia Trew > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Frustrated with dial-up? Get high-speed for as low as $26.95. https://broadband.msn.com (Prices may vary by service area.) From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Nov 13 14:10:02 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 14:10:02 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] quail and doves in garden Message-ID: The most effective approach is exclusion, putting up chickenwire (or similar) enclossures around the plants that you want to protect. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: cchare@qwest.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2003 15:26:35 -0700 (MST) > >Something is eating my potted annuals, particularly my petunias. Birds, >doves and quail, hang around the pots, seemingly eating the plants, but >perhaps they are eating bugs that are eating the plants. > >I have been spraying the plants with insect repellent and a product called >Repel (for insects and animals). Is there some home made solution which >could be used? Thanks. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN Messenger with backgrounds, emoticons and more. http://www.msnmessenger-download.com/tracking/cdp_customize From hojo60@worldnet.att.net Thu Nov 13 16:01:16 2003 From: hojo60@worldnet.att.net (hojo60@worldnet.att.net) Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 09:01:16 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311131601.hADG1F8o014658@Ag.arizona.edu> Have been growing zucchini for months in large pots in Glendale AZ. Plenty of flowers, but no fruit. The flowers are large, last a while and then die. What am I doing wrong? From rodmcq6@highstream.net Thu Nov 13 17:19:06 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 10:19:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: sumac..... References: <20031112.230515.-562421.3.rhailey1@juno.com> Message-ID: <001301c3aa0a$3fae7aa0$4ba9db43@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01C3A9CF.91B52C80 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Raymond, The sumac that you are asking about is very likely an African Sumac = (Rhus lancea). Yes it does look quite different from the sumacs that = grow in the northwest. The African Sumac is a native of the arid lands = of South Africa and does well in the low desert. It cannot handle temps = much under 20F so would not grow in most of the North West. Hope this answers your question. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist Message -----=20 From: rhailey1@juno.com=20 To: rodmcq6@highstream.net=20 Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2003 11:01 PM Subject: sumac..... I live in Palm Springs CA I showed a nurseryman a tree we have here = and ask him the name. He said it was=20 a sumac..... I come from the NW....WA state....and I know what = sumacs look like....even the elkhorn variety. Is there another sumac.....that could be the one that is common here = in The Desert Area of Palm Springs, CA.? Thank you rhailey1@juno.com Raymond Hailey... ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01C3A9CF.91B52C80 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Raymond,
The sumac that you are asking about is very likely = an African=20 Sumac (Rhus lancea). Yes it does look quite different from the sumacs = that grow=20 in the northwest. The African Sumac is a native of the arid lands of = South=20 Africa and does well in the low desert. It cannot handle temps much = under 20F so=20 would not grow in most of the North West.
 
Hope this answers your question.
 
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
Message -----
From:=20 rhailey1@juno.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 12, = 2003 11:01=20 PM
Subject: sumac.....

 
I live in Palm Springs CA    I showed a nurseryman = a tree=20 we have here and ask him the name.  He said it was
a sumac.....    I come from the NW....WA=20 state....and I know what sumacs look = like....even the=20 elkhorn variety.
 
Is there another sumac.....that could be = the one=20 that is common here in The Desert Area of Palm Springs, = CA.?
 
Thank you      rhailey1@juno.com   =    =20 Raymond Hailey...
------=_NextPart_000_0010_01C3A9CF.91B52C80-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Nov 13 16:30:35 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 16:30:35 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] fire damage to pine trees Message-ID: Jonathan & Honor Bartley The damage your pine trees suffered sounds like a moderate fire intensity. In order for a conifer tree to survive, some of the roots, the cambium of the main trunk, and buds must survive. The cambium is the sensitive layer of growing cells that produces the vascular system that conducts water and nutrients throughout the tree. The bark insulates the cambium from the damaging intensity of a fire; the thicker the bark, the better the protection. Bark thickness varies with age and differs by species. The amount of scorched foliage in the tree crown can predict conifer survival to a certain degree. Even with severe scorch damage, the buds may survive and grow the following spring. Basing survival estimates on scorch alone can be misleading; foliage color after a fire can be deceptive. Buds should be carefully examined – they should be firm and the terminal stem flexible. The bud or stem should not break off easily. The following website offers some information (skip to the section an "assessing tree damage"). http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/natresources/az1294/ You may also want to contact your local forest authority for specific information for your location. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "honor & jonathan bartley" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] fire damage to pine trees >Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 15:45:26 +0200 > >We live in North Western Crete (Greece). In our garden we planted about >five years ago some pine trees which have flourished. However, two weeks >ago we suffered a bad fire in the area which ravaged our garden. /The >fire went through very quickly .. about four minutes .. and the damage to >the trees is not so much burning as scorching. The needles have now lost >their greeness and look grey/green. They are not dropping and will not >pull out. Are the needles irrevocably damaged or will they recover? >Does a pine tree have the ability to grow new needles on the same branches? > Will the trees survive with their grey/green needles? >It is important we know this as otherw