From judsch375@hotmail.com Sat Nov 1 07:59:26 2003 From: judsch375@hotmail.com (judy schrock) Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2003 00:59:26 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Taller flowers Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0045_01C3A013.6571B780 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have stock (Harmony Mix) which grow 8 to 10 inches. Can I pinch the = tops out so they will spread more? Or should I let them just stand tall? ------=_NextPart_000_0045_01C3A013.6571B780 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I have stock (Harmony Mix) which grow 8 to 10 inches.  Can = I =20 pinch the tops out so they will spread more?  Or should I let them = just=20 stand tall?
------=_NextPart_000_0045_01C3A013.6571B780-- From graves" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C3A061.B7F0F680 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I planted a Pecan tree 4 yrs back and it hasn't grown but about an inch = since then..also it's leaves stay yellow looking all the time..I live in = south Arkansas. My daugther who lives next door planted the same kind of tree..the same = yr and hers is beauitful, she does nothing to it at all..I'm having a = hard time trying to figure out what is wrong..hers is growing and mine = is not . Can you maybe give me some advice as to way this maybe = happening?=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C3A061.B7F0F680 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I planted a Pecan tree 4 yrs back and = it hasn't=20 grown but about an inch since then..also it's leaves stay yellow looking = all the=20 time..I live in south Arkansas.
My daugther who lives next door planted = the same=20 kind of tree..the same yr and hers is beauitful, she does nothing to it = at=20 all..I'm having a hard time trying to figure out what is wrong..hers is = growing=20 and mine is not . Can you maybe give me some advice as to way this maybe = happening?
------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C3A061.B7F0F680-- From honeyb127@comcast.net Sat Nov 1 19:27:54 2003 From: honeyb127@comcast.net (honeyb127@comcast.net) Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2003 12:27:54 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311011927.hA1JRsAi016931@Ag.arizona.edu> I am new to AZ gardening. Please tell me is Otto Quast Spanish Lavender will grow in the Phoenix area? From oooohflowers@yahoo.com Sat Nov 1 20:57:20 2003 From: oooohflowers@yahoo.com (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2003 12:57:20 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Identifying columnar cactus In-Reply-To: <001701c39f0f$45f4c1e0$2824a8c0@lbmelman> Message-ID: <20031101205720.23235.qmail@web20416.mail.yahoo.com> --0-480621294-1067720240=:22255 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Hello Scott; As you have clearly already figured out, identifying cacti is no easy feat! There are 2,000 described species in this family. I found this website: http://cactiguide.com/, which provides a key for identification. I'm curious to know if it is at all helpful to you. The ASU herbarium and the Desert Botanical Garden are also really great resources for identifying cacti. Good luck! Kelly Scott Barvian wrote: What is a good resource for identifying the different varieties of columnar cacti? I have one in my yard that has 8 ribs on each column. And I bought a small one at the Master Gardener plant-swap event last weekend (thank you, MG's) that only has 5 ribs. I don't know the precise names of either. Just wondering if maybe the number of ribs can be used to identify the different cactus families. That would be a starting point if so. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Exclusive Video Premiere - Britney Spears --0-480621294-1067720240=:22255 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Hello Scott;
 
As you have clearly already figured out, identifying cacti is no easy feat!  There are 2,000 described species in this family. I found this website: http://cactiguide.com/, which provides a key for identification.  I'm curious to know if it is at all helpful to you.
 
The ASU herbarium and the Desert Botanical Garden are also really great resources for identifying cacti.
 
Good luck!
 
Kelly
 
 


Scott Barvian <sbarvian1@cableaz.com> wrote:
What is a good resource for identifying the different varieties
of columnar cacti?

I have one in my yard that has 8 ribs on each column. And
I bought a small one at the Master Gardener plant-swap
event last weekend (thank you, MG's) that only has 5 ribs.
I don't know the precise names of either.

Just wondering if maybe the number of ribs can be used to
identify the different cactus families. That would be a starting
point if so.
_______________________________________________
Arid_gardener mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener

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Exclusive Video Premiere - Britney Spears --0-480621294-1067720240=:22255-- From oooohflowers@yahoo.com Sat Nov 1 20:30:00 2003 From: oooohflowers@yahoo.com (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2003 12:30:00 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] pecan tree In-Reply-To: <000a01c3a094$037e03e0$6fc336d0@q6z2b1> Message-ID: <20031101203000.58811.qmail@web20421.mail.yahoo.com> --0-370124618-1067718600=:58704 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Hello Graves; You should probably contact your local cooperative extension office in regards to your pecan problems. The Arid Gardener Listserve (where you posted your question) focuses on gardening in the arid Southwest. We have a whole different set of soil and pest problems here than in Arkansas. I've included a link to the University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension as well as their mailing address. Good luck with your pecans! http://www.uaex.edu/ University of Arkansas • Division of Agriculture Cooperative Extension Service 2301 South University Avenue Little Rock, Arkansas 72204 • USA Phone (501) 671-2000 • Fax (501) 671-2209 Kelly graves wrote: I planted a Pecan tree 4 yrs back and it hasn't grown but about an inch since then..also it's leaves stay yellow looking all the time..I live in south Arkansas. My daugther who lives next door planted the same kind of tree..the same yr and hers is beauitful, she does nothing to it at all..I'm having a hard time trying to figure out what is wrong..hers is growing and mine is not . Can you maybe give me some advice as to way this maybe happening? --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Exclusive Video Premiere - Britney Spears --0-370124618-1067718600=:58704 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Hello Graves;
 
You should probably contact your local cooperative extension office in regards to your pecan problems.  The Arid Gardener Listserve (where you posted your question) focuses on gardening in the arid Southwest.  We have a whole different set of soil and pest problems here than in Arkansas. 
 
I've included a link to the University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension as well as their mailing address.  Good luck with your pecans!
http://www.uaex.edu/
University of Arkansas • Division of Agriculture
Cooperative Extension Service
2301 South University Avenue
Little Rock, Arkansas 72204 • USA
Phone (501) 671-2000 • Fax (501) 671-2209
 
 
Kelly
 
 

graves <ctn56734@centurytel.net> wrote:
I planted a Pecan tree 4 yrs back and it hasn't grown but about an inch since then..also it's leaves stay yellow looking all the time..I live in south Arkansas.
My daugther who lives next door planted the same kind of tree..the same yr and hers is beauitful, she does nothing to it at all..I'm having a hard time trying to figure out what is wrong..hers is growing and mine is not . Can you maybe give me some advice as to way this maybe happening?

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Exclusive Video Premiere - Britney Spears --0-370124618-1067718600=:58704-- From oooohflowers@yahoo.com Sat Nov 1 20:48:46 2003 From: oooohflowers@yahoo.com (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2003 12:48:46 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Texas Ebony vs. Ironwood In-Reply-To: <20031030.205014.-1687213.2.xenaandsilverback@juno.com> Message-ID: <20031101204846.85990.qmail@web20413.mail.yahoo.com> --0-1921718076-1067719726=:85107 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Hi Phil; Decisions, decisions! You narrowed your choices down to two wonderful trees. Both trees do very well in the southwest deserts, grow very slowly to a height of approximately 40 feet, are very thorny and require very little maintenance. Texas ebony, Ebonopsis ebono (formerly Pithecellobium flexicaule, is native to the Chihuahuan desert. It produces numberous woody pods that can be fairly messy. It is also prone to wood-boring beetles. Ironwood, Olneya tesota is a native to the Sonoran desert. It produces flowers and pods that will seasonally create a mess, but all plants produce some sort of mess at some point (all living things do :) Most "trees" grow much taller than 12 feet in height. Parkinsonia microphyllum (Foothills Paloverde) doesn't usually get as tall as many of the other desert legumenous trees, not usually growing much beyond 20 feet in height. You might also consider looking at some of the taller desert shrubs and pruning them up as small trees. Good luck! Kelly phil noland wrote: Looking to put desert shade tree in front yard, next to boulder water feature and over flagstone area with two benches. I want a desert-type tree that is hardy, gives some shade, and that I will not have to constantly trim. It would also be nice if it did not shed profusely. I have a great little Texas Ebony in the back that started as a 4' bush. It is now a 8' bush. Someone told me that Texas Ebonies can turn into great trees. I have always liked Ironwood trees. I am looking for a tree about 12' tall with equal canopy to plant as shade/accent in this area. How big do the respective plants get to be? Which grows faster, needs more trimming, sheds more, and has more "issues"? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Exclusive Video Premiere - Britney Spears --0-1921718076-1067719726=:85107 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Hi Phil;

Decisions, decisions!  You narrowed your choices down to two wonderful trees. Both trees do very well in the southwest deserts, grow  very slowly to a height of approximately 40 feet, are very thorny and require very little maintenance. 
 
Texas ebony, Ebonopsis ebono (formerly Pithecellobium flexicaule, is native to the Chihuahuan desert.  It produces numberous woody pods that can be fairly messy.  It is also prone to wood-boring beetles.
 
Ironwood, Olneya tesota is a native to the Sonoran desert.  It produces flowers and pods that will seasonally create a mess, but all plants produce some sort of mess at some point (all living things do :)
 
Most "trees" grow much taller than 12 feet in height.  Parkinsonia microphyllum (Foothills Paloverde) doesn't usually get as tall as many of the other desert legumenous trees, not usually growing much beyond 20 feet in height. You might also consider looking at some of the taller desert shrubs and pruning them up as small trees.
 
Good luck!
 
 
Kelly
 
 
 
 
 

phil noland <xenaandsilverback@juno.com> wrote:
Looking to put desert shade tree in front yard, next to boulder water
feature and over flagstone area with two benches. I want a desert-type
tree that is hardy, gives some shade, and that I will not have to
constantly trim. It would also be nice if it did not shed profusely. I
have a great little Texas Ebony in the back that started as a 4' bush.
It is now a 8' bush. Someone told me that Texas Ebonies can turn into
great trees. I have always liked Ironwood trees. I am looking for a
tree about 12' tall with equal canopy to plant as shade/accent in this
area. How big do the respective plants get to be? Which grows faster,
needs more trimming, sheds more, and has more "issues"?
_______________________________________________
Arid_gardener mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener

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Exclusive Video Premiere - Britney Spears --0-1921718076-1067719726=:85107-- From GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com Sat Nov 1 22:25:46 2003 From: GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com (GardenGuy) Date: Sat, 01 Nov 2003 15:25:46 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ligustrum japonica Message-ID: <3FA432EA.5030206@GardenersCorner.com> Hi folks, I went to Lowes this afternoon, and they had five gallon Ligustrum japonica clearance priced at just $5 bucks a piece. I saw two of these as standard this spring, absolutely lovely, and that fragrance was heaven sent. So I purchased the three that were there, gave one to my neighbor who just bought a house and kept two for myself. The reason I didn't get them at walmart this spring was because they were $200 a piece...beautiful standards! Now mine are just shrub size, and I'm thinking I will train them as small multi-branch trees. I planted them in oak barrels and planted pansies all around them. It looks so perty. Does anyone else grow Ligustrum? Curious to hear what you have to say about it. Like it? Hate it? Any special care requirements? -- -- Chat with you later... Alan ----- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ***** LIVE Garden Chat Now Available ***** ----- Alan Zelhart GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- "It's not the money I want, it's the stuff""" From alamo@dakotacom.net Mon Nov 3 01:50:16 2003 From: alamo@dakotacom.net (Signa) Date: Sun, 02 Nov 2003 18:50:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Slim Leaf Bursage Infestation Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20031102180450.00a50cf0@pop3.norton.antivirus> Is eradication of Slim Leaf Bursage possible, and if so by what method(s)? My bursage "crop" started in the alley behind my patio wall a few years ago, and has persisted in coming back, evidently from its underground root runners, after repeated removals of the plants and regular treatments of the alley with pre-emergent. It has more recently apparently crossed under the footing of my patio wall into a planting border and from there several feet into the lawn, despite my regularly removing all the visible plants (with as much of the roots as I can get) from inside my yard approximately twice a month. I have been less assiduous in the alley and have observed there that it produces seeds as well as spreading by its subterranean rooting system. Questions: 1. Does pre-emergent treatment (such as Weed Stop) prevent germination of this bursage's seeds? 2. Would herbicide treatment (such as RoundUp) of all the above-ground plantlets eventually put the root system out of business and kill off this pest? (I'm thinking I could fashion a paper cone to use inverted around the bursage in the lawn and planting border so that I could spray each weed while shielding the lawn and border plants. Might this work?) I have just finished clearing out the dang things yet again, and I'd surely admire to find a way to eradicate this ongoing infestation with which I seem to have been blessed. Thanks, Signa From Pandabear561@aol.com Mon Nov 3 13:45:26 2003 From: Pandabear561@aol.com (Pandabear561@aol.com) Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 08:45:26 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Drying Gourds Message-ID: <2f.40faff9b.2cd7b5f6@aol.com> --part1_2f.40faff9b.2cd7b5f6_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Please tell me how to or, why I might find the instructions for drying gourds. I have tried in the past but, I had no luck. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you, Ginny --part1_2f.40faff9b.2cd7b5f6_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Please tell me how to or, why=20= I might find the instructions for drying gourds.
I have tried in the past but, I had no luck.
Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you, Ginny --part1_2f.40faff9b.2cd7b5f6_boundary-- From s2@auroranow.org Mon Nov 3 14:49:19 2003 From: s2@auroranow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Mon, 03 Nov 2003 07:49:19 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Slim Leaf Bursage Infestation References: <5.1.0.14.2.20031102180450.00a50cf0@pop3.norton.antivirus> Message-ID: <3FA66AEF.5030701@auroranow.org> > (I'm thinking I could fashion a paper cone to use inverted around the bursage in the lawn and planting border so that I could spray each weed while shielding the lawn and border plants. Might this work?) I cut the bottom off a milk jug and hold the sprayer through the top and use the milk jug as a cone to protect adjacent plants when using Round-up. I also try to go out and spray early in the morning when winds are at their lowest. Pre-emergent will prevent seeds from germinating, and has to be re-applied every 6 months or so (I find it most effective right before rainy seasons, i.e., November-December and again in June.) If a seed has germinated, but hasn't emerged, it will still come up. Round up kills growing plants only if they are actively growing. Sometimes it takes re-applying round-up at different times of the season if you're not sure if a plant is "actively growing" or not. My experience (we have the same issue with creosote and desert tobacco on our property) is that these are never-ending battles. Use both the round up and pre-emergent in addition to good ol' fashioned cutting and pulling, and just consider it a regular part of your landscape maintenance. not a master gardener, -- Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. Aurora Now Foundation | http://www.auroranow.org Helping human systems create better futures ----------------------------------------------- Tucson office: 520.578-2801 | AOL IM: Aurora S2 ----------------------------------------------- "I became convinced that we're here for each other." --R. Buckminster Fuller From BeverlyFz2@aol.com Mon Nov 3 21:25:01 2003 From: BeverlyFz2@aol.com (BeverlyFz2@aol.com) Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 16:25:01 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mountain Lion Message-ID: <1d1.13912104.2cd821ad@aol.com> --part1_1d1.13912104.2cd821ad_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I live against the South Mountain Preserve off of 22nd street on the north side of the mountain. I awoke at 2:00 am to the meow of a mountion lion outside my door. I first though a cat had found a way into the house it was so loud. This morning there are definitely mountain lion tracks all around the yard. I measure them at 2.75 inches across. I spend a lot of time outside and am wondering what's the risk of this large cat jumping off the roof onto my back or some surprise like this. I don't want to sneak around watching my back, or find it between me and the door. Other people think I should be afraid. Thx B --part1_1d1.13912104.2cd821ad_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I live against the South Mountain Preserve off of 22nd= street on the north side of the mountain. I awoke at 2:00 am to the meow of= a mountion lion outside my door. I first though a cat had found a way into=20= the house it was so loud. This morning there are definitely mountain lion tr= acks all around the yard. I measure them at 2.75 inches across. I spend a lo= t of time outside and am wondering what's the risk of this large cat jumping= off the roof onto my back or some surprise like this. I don't want to sneak= around watching my back, or find it between me and the door.  Other pe= ople think I should be afraid.  Thx B --part1_1d1.13912104.2cd821ad_boundary-- From watsontl@mindspring.com Tue Nov 4 01:46:41 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 18:46:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mountain Lion References: <1d1.13912104.2cd821ad@aol.com> Message-ID: <002d01c3a275$7fc29dc0$5a48b83f@S0029317241> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_002A_01C3A23A.D26E4230 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Wow! Now there's a garden pest I never would have thought of! On the one hand, what an amazing thing to have for a neighbor. On the = other, attacks by these cats, while uncommon, are not unheard of either. = To obtain good advice regarding this situation, contact Arizona Game = and Fish (602-942-3000). They have the expertise you will need, and = most likely should be informed of the cat's presence in a residential = area. Tom ----- Original Message -----=20 From: BeverlyFz2@aol.com=20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Monday, November 03, 2003 2:25 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mountain Lion I live against the South Mountain Preserve off of 22nd street on the = north side of the mountain. I awoke at 2:00 am to the meow of a mountion = lion outside my door. I first though a cat had found a way into the = house it was so loud. This morning there are definitely mountain lion = tracks all around the yard. I measure them at 2.75 inches across. I = spend a lot of time outside and am wondering what's the risk of this = large cat jumping off the roof onto my back or some surprise like this. = I don't want to sneak around watching my back, or find it between me and = the door. Other people think I should be afraid. Thx B ------=_NextPart_000_002A_01C3A23A.D26E4230 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Wow!   Now there's a garden = pest I never=20 would have thought of!
 
On the one hand, what an amazing thing = to have for=20 a neighbor.   On the other, attacks by these cats, while = uncommon, are=20 not unheard of either.   To obtain good advice regarding this=20 situation, contact Arizona Game and Fish (602-942-3000).   They have=20 the expertise you will need, and most likely should be informed of the = cat's=20 presence in a residential area.
 
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 BeverlyFz2@aol.com
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2003 = 2:25=20 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Mountain=20 Lion

I live against the South Mountain Preserve off of = 22nd=20 street on the north side of the mountain. I awoke at 2:00 am to the = meow of a=20 mountion lion outside my door. I first though a cat had found a way = into the=20 house it was so loud. This morning there are definitely mountain lion = tracks=20 all around the yard. I measure them at 2.75 inches across. I spend a = lot of=20 time outside and am wondering what's the risk of this large cat = jumping off=20 the roof onto my back or some surprise like this. I don't want to = sneak around=20 watching my back, or find it between me and the door.  Other = people think=20 I should be afraid.  Thx B = ------=_NextPart_000_002A_01C3A23A.D26E4230-- From pwolterb@Ag.arizona.edu Mon Nov 3 22:32:08 2003 From: pwolterb@Ag.arizona.edu (Paul Wolterbeek) Date: Mon, 03 Nov 2003 15:32:08 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] please announce this week... Message-ID: <3.0.6.32.20031103153208.008b8a60@ag.arizona.edu> Hot Cakes & Cool Tunes Nov. 8 at the Arboretum Master Gardeners who have visited Boyce Thompson Arboretum know this splendid botanical park as a place with more than two miles of walking paths, fall color and spring wildflowers. This Saturday there's a great way to enjoy the Arboretum - with live music from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. during the annual Fall Folk Festival. And here's a special deal for early-arrivals: just $5 buys you a hearty pancake breakfast, the day's admission to Boyce Thompson Arboretum, and also the satisfaction of helping fund scholarships for high school students in Superior. Superior Rotary Club's annual pancake breakfast will be from 8-10 a.m. on Nov. 8; the very same Saturday as the annual live music festival at Boyce Thompson Arboretum. And, since regular adult admission is $6 per day, attending the pancake breakfast even saves a buck on park entry! Bring your family...tell your friends....enjoy a great breakfast in the Arboretum picnic area and stroll the trails at Boyce Thompson Arboretum. Then stay for a day featuring live music "both acoustic and eclectic" on the grounds from 10 a.m. until 4 p.m. at the 3nd Annual Fall Folk Festival. Don't miss this great event! Review the talent lineup and check out photos from the 2002 performances at the website: http://ag.arizona.edu/events/folkfestival.html From edawson@u.arizona.edu Tue Nov 4 16:38:07 2003 From: edawson@u.arizona.edu (edawson@u.arizona.edu) Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 09:38:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311041638.hA4Gc7Ai011866@Ag.arizona.edu> When should I -- or should I -- take my potted bushes, palms, citrus tree and bird of paradise inside the house? From watsontl@mindspring.com Tue Nov 4 01:39:41 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 18:39:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Drying Gourds References: <2f.40faff9b.2cd7b5f6@aol.com> Message-ID: <001b01c3a274$86b26490$5a48b83f@S0029317241> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C3A239.D7CB0CF0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Check this link out: http://www.growinglifestyle.com/s/Drying_Gourds/index.html Everything you could want to know, from the looks of it. Tom ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Pandabear561@aol.com=20 To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Monday, November 03, 2003 6:45 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Drying Gourds Please tell me how to or, why I might find the instructions for drying = gourds. I have tried in the past but, I had no luck. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you, Ginny ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C3A239.D7CB0CF0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Check this link out:
 
http:= //www.growinglifestyle.com/s/Drying_Gourds/index.html
 
Everything you could want to know, from = the looks=20 of it.
 
Tom
 
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Pandabear561@aol.com
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2003 = 6:45=20 AM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Drying = Gourds

Please tell me how to or, = why I might=20 find the instructions for drying gourds.
I have tried in the past = but, I=20 had no luck.
Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you, = Ginny=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C3A239.D7CB0CF0-- From oooohflowers@yahoo.com Tue Nov 4 18:59:01 2003 From: oooohflowers@yahoo.com (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 10:59:01 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Mountain Lion Message-ID: <20031104185901.70305.qmail@web20421.mail.yahoo.com> --0-1346425922-1067972341=:69284 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii B; I would definitely notify the regional wildlife specialist at Arizona Game and Fish right away. His name is Joe Yarchin, 480-981-9400I ext. 217. He's out of the office until Wednesday, but I'm sure he would be interested to know about cats in town! Please let us know what he tells you. Good luck and be careful! Kelly --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Protect your identity with Yahoo! Mail AddressGuard --0-1346425922-1067972341=:69284 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
B;
 
I would definitely notify the regional wildlife specialist at Arizona Game and Fish right away.  His name is Joe Yarchin, 480-981-9400I ext. 217.  He's out of the office until Wednesday, but I'm sure he would be interested to know about cats in town!  Please let us know what he tells you.
 
Good luck and be careful!
 
 
Kelly

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Protect your identity with Yahoo! Mail AddressGuard --0-1346425922-1067972341=:69284-- From oooohflowers@yahoo.com Tue Nov 4 19:08:57 2003 From: oooohflowers@yahoo.com (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 11:08:57 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200311041638.hA4Gc7Ai011866@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20031104190857.91460.qmail@web20413.mail.yahoo.com> --0-1383996402-1067972937=:91396 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii A plant's cold tolerance varies greatly by species, size and health of the plant. It is generally not necessary to move plants indoors, unless you know them to be particularly cold sensitive. The UA publication AZ 1002 Frost Protection should be especially useful. It can be found online with the following link: http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1002.pdf Good luck! Kelly edawson@u.arizona.edu wrote: When should I -- or should I -- take my potted bushes, palms, citrus tree and bird of paradise inside the house? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Protect your identity with Yahoo! Mail AddressGuard --0-1383996402-1067972937=:91396 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
A plant's cold tolerance varies greatly by species, size and health of the plant. It is generally not necessary to move plants indoors, unless you know them to be particularly cold sensitive.  The UA publication  AZ 1002 Frost Protection should be especially useful.  It can be found online with the following link:
Good luck!
 
Kelly
 
 

edawson@u.arizona.edu wrote:
When should I -- or should I -- take my potted bushes, palms, citrus tree and bird of paradise inside the house?

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Protect your identity with Yahoo! Mail AddressGuard --0-1383996402-1067972937=:91396-- From jengay@cox.net Tue Nov 4 20:08:50 2003 From: jengay@cox.net (jengay@cox.net) Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 13:08:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311042008.hA4K8o8o001398@Ag.arizona.edu> I am having a problem selecting a tree for my backyard. There is not a lot of space and I need it to screen a neighbor's house. It is in a pool area. I think I've narrowed it to either Acacia Salicina or Acacia Saligna. Your information does not recommend Acacia Salicina near a pool but does say that it is low maintenance. Why is it not recommended near a pool? From manzorick@qwest.net Wed Nov 5 23:00:39 2003 From: manzorick@qwest.net (manzorick@qwest.net) Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 16:00:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311052300.hA5N0d8o001486@Ag.arizona.edu> When can I plant naked ladies, gladiolas? Will colchius grow here? From rodmcq6@highstream.net Wed Nov 5 23:11:53 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 16:11:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rose buds eaten by black beetles References: <200310271548.h9RFm0Ai016821@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <001c01c3a3f2$34e76960$b531db43@ibmbna6040> I haven't seen an answer to your question of10/27 so I'll try to help. I'm unable to identify the black beetle so I'll tell you what usually works. I would suggest using the insecticide orthene along with a sticker spreader and spray the rose buds only. It will no doubt take more than one application. Systemic insecticides applied to the soil are not always effective on insects that are eating the rose blooms. For the insect identification I would suggest that you take sample insects to U. of A., Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for an opinion. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, October 27, 2003 8:48 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I have black, hard shelled bugs (appx 1/8" long on my roses that I can't seem to get rid of. They are found in the blossom buds, which are stunted and deformed. The plants are healthy, & the insects don't appear on the plants themselves, only inside the flowers. I have used both systemic rose insect control & Malathion with no success. I have questioned several local nurserys, & no one can inentify the bug. Can someone help me? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From Kidolibrarian@yahoo.com Wed Nov 5 03:18:38 2003 From: Kidolibrarian@yahoo.com (Kidolibrarian@yahoo.com) Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 20:18:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311050318.hA53Ic8o007886@Ag.arizona.edu> Will a Black Mission Fig fruit if it is kept trimmed to about 15 feet? From sellickaz@aol.com Wed Nov 5 15:16:48 2003 From: sellickaz@aol.com (sellickaz@aol.com) Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 08:16:48 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311051516.hA5FGm8o020053@Ag.arizona.edu> Hello! I have purchased a "Mr lincoln" red rose bush and as I have never owned roses before, could you tell me if I should plant it in the ground or leave it in the container, should I trim it way back? It has lots of very healthy growth: leaves, etc. I have a spot in the front yard that gets morning and afternoon direct sun and late afternoon filtered sun. Can I plant it now? Thanks for your help!! Barbara Sellick sellickaz@aol.com From jtrog002@aol.com Wed Nov 5 05:19:04 2003 From: jtrog002@aol.com (jtrog002@aol.com) Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 22:19:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311050519.hA55J48o018014@Ag.arizona.edu> Do you know of a site that provides a database containing crop/landscape coefficients for various local plants that can be utilized for irrigation purposes? From oooohflowers@yahoo.com Tue Nov 4 21:19:06 2003 From: oooohflowers@yahoo.com (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 13:19:06 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200311042008.hA4K8o8o001398@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20031104211906.17891.qmail@web20414.mail.yahoo.com> --0-766381076-1067980746=:17784 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Jengay; Actually, Acacia salicina is recommended in UA Publication AZ 1058 Plants for Poolside Landscapes http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1058.pdf for use near a pool. It doesn't usually produce as many flowers as A. saligna, potentially reducing the mess that will fall into the pool. A. salicina also grows taller than its cousin, which may be a benefit when trying to screen out an unwanted view. Visit these sites to see what Mountain States Wholesale Nursery has to say about each of them: http://www.mswn.com/IS-Acacia%20salicina-1.htm http://www.mswn.com/IS-Acacia%20saligna-1.htm Good luck! Kelly jengay@cox.net wrote: I am having a problem selecting a tree for my backyard. There is not a lot of space and I need it to screen a neighbor's house. It is in a pool area. I think I've narrowed it to either Acacia Salicina or Acacia Saligna. Your information does not recommend Acacia Salicina near a pool but does say that it is low maintenance. Why is it not recommended near a pool? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Protect your identity with Yahoo! Mail AddressGuard --0-766381076-1067980746=:17784 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Jengay;
 
Actually, Acacia salicina is recommended in
UA Publication AZ 1058 Plants for Poolside Landscapes
for use near a pool. It doesn't usually produce as many flowers as A. saligna, potentially reducing the mess that will fall into the pool. A. salicina also grows taller than its cousin, which may be a benefit when trying to screen out an unwanted view. 
 
Visit these sites to see what Mountain States Wholesale Nursery has to say about each of them:
 
Good luck!
 
Kelly
 

jengay@cox.net wrote:
I am having a problem selecting a tree for my backyard. There is not a lot of space and I need it to screen a neighbor's house. It is in a pool area. I think I've narrowed it to either Acacia Salicina or Acacia Saligna. Your information does not recommend Acacia Salicina near a pool but does say that it is low maintenance. Why is it not recommended near a pool?

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Protect your identity with Yahoo! Mail AddressGuard --0-766381076-1067980746=:17784-- From oooohflowers@cox.net Thu Nov 6 16:29:20 2003 From: oooohflowers@cox.net (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2003 09:29:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: The University of California has done a lot of work to develop crop coefficients for landscape plants. They provide some Kc data that may be useful to you. Visit these sites: http://www.wateright.org/site2/publications/wucolsb.pdf http://www.owue.water.ca.gov/docs/wucols00.pdf I have not yet found anything published recently about Arizona landscape plants, but there is a publication UA puts out called MC14 Water Requirements for Landscape Plants. It is an older publication and isn't available online, but you can pick it up for free in person at the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension. Good luck and let us know if you find more specific crop coefficient data. Kelly -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of jtrog002@aol.com Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2003 10:19 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Do you know of a site that provides a database containing crop/landscape coefficients for various local plants that can be utilized for irrigation purposes? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From oooohflowers@cox.net Thu Nov 6 15:59:08 2003 From: oooohflowers@cox.net (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2003 08:59:08 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: Kido; Figs produce fruit on current season's growth. That makes it a little easier to decide what limbs to remove without worrying about cutting off all of next season's fruit. You should be able to prune your fig to control the size and still get a good fruit crop. Some folks recommend pruning figs in late winter, while it is dormant and leafless. Be careful not to remove any more than 1/4 - 1/3 of the tree's canopy when you prune. The UA has an excellent pruning publication AZ 1139 Pruning Deciduous Shade Trees can be downloaded free online at http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1139.pdf Good luck with your figs! Kelly Will a Black Mission Fig fruit if it is kept trimmed to about 15 feet? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Joanne.Triplett@pima.gov Thu Nov 6 01:20:51 2003 From: Joanne.Triplett@pima.gov (Joanne Triplett) Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2003 18:20:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bottlebush Message-ID: <4AC0094C65EDD711AF9500A0C9D189B1DFA584@exchange.co.pima.az.us> Trying to establish in BottleBush my yard. Info desired on maintaining transplants, soil and water needs, pruning. JCT From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Nov 6 14:36:30 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 06 Nov 2003 14:36:30 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] figs for small yards Message-ID: Here in Tucson, we are looking at a new fig variety called Black Jack. It is supposed to be well-adapted and is a dwarf, growing to only about 15 feet. It should be much more realistic for small urban gardens than other varieties. We plan to plant it in our demonstration orchard. You might want to try it. (We found it at Catalina Heights Nursery in Tucson). Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Kidolibrarian@yahoo.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 20:18:38 -0700 (MST) > >Will a Black Mission Fig fruit if it is kept trimmed to about 15 feet? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN Messenger with backgrounds, emoticons and more. http://www.msnmessenger-download.com/tracking/cdp_customize From oooohflowers@cox.net Thu Nov 6 19:58:33 2003 From: oooohflowers@cox.net (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2003 12:58:33 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bottlebush In-Reply-To: <4AC0094C65EDD711AF9500A0C9D189B1DFA584@exchange.co.pima.az.us> Message-ID: JCT; You didn't mention which bottlebrush you are interested in growing, but here's a site that gives you everything you ever wanted to know (and more) about the genus Callistemon: http://farrer.riv.csu.edu.au/ASGAP/callistn.html, it's an Australian site. For limited, but local info, try http://www.desert-tropicals.com/Plants/Myrtaceae/Callistemon_viminalis.html Good luck! Kelly -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Joanne Triplett Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2003 6:21 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bottlebush Trying to establish in BottleBush my yard. Info desired on maintaining transplants, soil and water needs, pruning. JCT _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From PERFLOWERS@aol.com Thu Nov 6 20:16:09 2003 From: PERFLOWERS@aol.com (PERFLOWERS@aol.com) Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2003 15:16:09 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Drying Gourds Message-ID: Ginny, You might try one of the following Gourd organizations about your gourd question: Arizona Gourd - Leif 602-686-3852 - azgourds@hotmail.com Southwest Gourd Assn - Linda 623-853-1243 - SWGA@worldnet.att.net Tolleson Gourd Patch - Anne 623-977-7673 West Valley Gourd Patch - Jean 623-933-5353 - sonnyj2308@aol.com Val From Ashtaroth@lvcm.com Thu Nov 6 20:13:47 2003 From: Ashtaroth@lvcm.com (Lisa Kennedy) Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2003 12:13:47 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] RE: Ironwood and breaking branches Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_010D_01C3A45F.6E0D0020 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have an Ironwood tree in my front yard and every time even the slightest breeze blows through, it snaps the branches off. I don't know how old the tree is it's about 10 feet tall. It is in direct sunlight in our northern exposure front yard. It gets watered twice every other day for about 10 minutes. I do know that the people who lived here before me trimmed back the tree IMMENSELY before selling the house. Did this weaken the tree? Can anything be done to fix it? Thanks. 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January is the time to do major pruning here in the low desert, but because you will have just planted it I would suggest that only a light pruning be done now or in January. When you plant be sure to dig the planting hole two to three times the diameter of the pot, mix in 1/3 to 1/2 mulch with part of the dirt that is used to fill around the root ball. The rose will really appreciate a three inch layer of mulch around the bush before next summer's heat arrives. Mister Lincoln is an excellent red rose and its blossoms are quite fragrant. February is the time to fertilize then be watching for aphids and powdery mildew. Aphids can be controlled with a strong stream of water but you will need to spray for the powdery mildew. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2003 8:16 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Hello! I have purchased a "Mr lincoln" red rose bush and as I have never owned roses before, could you tell me if I should plant it in the ground or leave it in the container, should I trim it way back? It has lots of very healthy growth: leaves, etc. > I have a spot in the front yard that gets morning and afternoon direct sun and late afternoon filtered sun. Can I plant it now? Thanks for your help!! > Barbara Sellick > sellickaz@aol.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From CopOut332@Highstream.net Fri Nov 7 19:54:14 2003 From: CopOut332@Highstream.net (CopOut332@Highstream.net) Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2003 12:54:14 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311071954.hA7JsE8o029591@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a 10 year old African Sumac in my front yard. The roots are sprouting small growth over a large area beneath the tree. Is there any way to stop or slow these sprouts without inuring the tree? From gibshry@cox.net Sat Nov 8 18:03:11 2003 From: gibshry@cox.net (gibshry@cox.net) Date: Sat, 8 Nov 2003 11:03:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311081803.hA8I3B8o014151@Ag.arizona.edu> Is Lantana a good choice to plant in Good- year,AZ. I've a 8 yr old Saguaro. In the past 8-mo it has started to yellow [plant faces south, same as before being moved] from the base to the head. Used Vit.B @ time it was moved. Couple of times a year some cactus food. Now In the last 6-mo the plant is starting to lean to the north. It has always been healthy. From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net Fri Nov 7 23:24:12 2003 From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2003 16:24:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: African Sumac Sprouts References: <200311071954.hA7JsE8o029591@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000a01c3a586$45593220$1953530c@olin> Are you certain they are sprouts from the roots. Mine A.S. shoots are actually sprouts from seeds that I can pull up or dig out. Not to say they can't sprout from the roots, but I've had mine over 20 years I have never had root sprouts. But I did get suckers at the base of the trees that needed to be trimmed annually until they finally gave up. With a sprout from tree roots, one usually needs to dig down and cut it off where it is joined to the root, then cover it up again to slow it down a bit. ----- Original Message ----- From: > I have a 10 year old African Sumac in my front yard. The roots are sprouting small growth over a large area beneath the tree. Is there any way to stop or slow these sprouts without inuring the tree? From rodmcq6@highstream.net Fri Nov 7 23:35:02 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2003 16:35:02 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Desert Ironwood (Olneya tesota) References: Message-ID: <003401c3a587$c5511820$0504e043@ibmbna6040> Lisa and Robert, Sorry, but your irrigation practice of watering the Desert Ironwood twice every other day for 10 minutes is gradually killing the tree. The Desert Ironwood is a desert adapted tree and very drought tolerant. It should be deep watered every two to three weeks during summer and once every month or two during winter. Watering for such a short period of time allows the water to penetrate only a few inches deep, the roots seek out the water, the salt which is in our water is left in the root zone when the water evaporates and salt is a poison to plants. By deep watering each time you water, the salt is flushed out of the root zone and the roots are encouraged to grow deeper away from the hot soil surface. You should change your irrigation practice gradually so that the tree will acustom itself to proper irrigation. The heavy pruning that the previous owner did certainly did not help the tree. Recommended practice dictates that no more than 15% should be pruned at one time and no more than 25% in one year. An excellent bulletin titled LANDSCAPE WATERING BY THE NUMBERS is available free at most nurseries and your cities Water Conservation Dept. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --- Original Message ----- From: "Lisa Kennedy" To: Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2003 1:13 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] RE: Ironwood and breaking branches > I have an Ironwood tree in my front yard and every time even the slightest > breeze blows through, it snaps the branches off. I don't know how old the > tree is it's about 10 feet tall. It is in direct sunlight in our northern > exposure front yard. It gets watered twice every other day for about 10 > minutes. I do know that the people who lived here before me trimmed back > the tree IMMENSELY before selling the house. Did this weaken the tree? Can > anything be done to fix it? > > Thanks. > > Lisa & Robert > From rodmcq6@highstream.net Fri Nov 7 22:54:45 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2003 15:54:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] African Sumac sucker growth References: <200311071954.hA7JsE8o029591@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <001e01c3a582$253270a0$0504e043@ibmbna6040> Sucker growth appears to be the norm for the African Sumac. I have several of them and it is a continuous battle. I have used Roundup on them with some success (this is not a recommended practice because it could kill the tree). Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, November 07, 2003 12:54 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I have a 10 year old African Sumac in my front yard. The roots are sprouting small growth over a large area beneath the tree. Is there any way to stop or slow these sprouts without inuring the tree? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From oooohflowers@cox.net Sun Nov 9 00:52:10 2003 From: oooohflowers@cox.net (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Sat, 8 Nov 2003 17:52:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] RE: Ironwood and breaking branches In-Reply-To: Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C3A621.08EE6A80 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello Lisa and Robert; I'm sorry to hear about your problems with your Ironwood tree. They are such magnificent trees both wild in the desert and in the home landscape. There are a number of plants that carry the common name Ironwood, but I am going to assume that you are talking about Olneya tesota, the Sonoran Desert native that has grayish foliage and fierce thorns. The folks at Arid Zone Trees have an article that discusses care of Ironwoods, it can be found on the web at: http://www.aridzonetrees.com/aztimes/aztimes95/jul95vol2-7.htm You are absolutely correct in your concerned about the pruning and watering of the tree. Ironwood trees grow very slowly and require minimal pruning. Sometimes, when trees are exposed to very harsh pruning they produce lots of weakly attached, upright shoots called watersprouts. These watersprouts are tree's way of replacing lost foliage. Ironwood trees need leaves do photosynthesize and produce their food. Although the tree temporarily solves the food shortage problem, watersprouts, as mentioned previously, are weakly attached to the stem where they are produced and break off very easily (as you noticed). Personally, I wouldn't prune the tree again, but down the road it may require some light pruning to reduce hazards. Here is a link to an excellent pruning publication from the UA that should be very helpful: http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1139.pdf Ironwood trees are native to some of the driest areas of our desert. In the wild they survive on rainfall alone. In a landscape, we should irrigate an Ironwood long enough to get it established, really only for the first year or two (we will probably hear from some folks who beg to differ). I wouldn't water it at all during the winter (Nov - Feb) and once each of the rest of the months. Every time we irrigate a plant, we should wet the entire root zone. This means watering down to a depth of at least three feet under the entire canopy. If you are using a drip system, and depending on your soil type, this would probably take several hours. The Arizona Municipal Water Users Association publishes some wonderful, free brochures that can help you with your landscape irrigation: Landscape Watering by the Numbers and Xeriscape are both must-haves. Visit AMWUA's site to find out the nearest place to pick them up: http://www.amwua.org/xscp-brochure-waterbynumbers.htm I hope that with a little time and TLC, your Ironwood tree recovers and becomes a beautiful tree. Good luck! Kelly > -----Original Message----- > From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu > [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu] > Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2003 1:14 PM > To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu > Subject: [Arid_gardener] RE: Ironwood and breaking branches > > I have an Ironwood tree in my front yard and every time even the slightest > breeze blows through, it snaps the branches off. I don't know how old > the tree is it's about 10 feet tall. It is in direct sunlight in our > northern exposure front yard. It gets watered twice every other day for > about 10 minutes. I do know that the people who lived here before me > trimmed back the tree IMMENSELY before selling the house. Did this weaken > the tree? 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How far away should we plant from underground utility lines (gas, water, sewer and electrical)and a fire hydrant? For future reference were is this information published? Should I contact each utility company to get there recommendations? Is there a list of trees not recommended for such areas? -Chris From agave@cox.net Mon Nov 10 02:53:22 2003 From: agave@cox.net (agave@cox.net) Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2003 19:53:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311100253.hAA2rM8o028418@Ag.arizona.edu> I just transplanted an fouquieria spendens/ Octillo. How much should I water and for how long. I live in east mesa with native soil, did amend with the Kellogg product that has rice hulls to ariate soil some. From perucreek@aol.com Mon Nov 10 01:13:41 2003 From: perucreek@aol.com (perucreek@aol.com) Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2003 18:13:41 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311100113.hAA1Df8o020665@Ag.arizona.edu> We have a Texas Honey Mesquite with yellowing leaves. Its about 2 1/2years old. It was on irrigation , three 1 gal. drippers, the first 1 1/2 year. The past year we its been on a one gallon dripper. We live in Saddlebrooke, Northeast of Catalina. So is it getting too much water or did not get enough? From cchare@qwest.net Sun Nov 9 22:26:35 2003 From: cchare@qwest.net (cchare@qwest.net) Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2003 15:26:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311092226.hA9MQZ8o007722@Ag.arizona.edu> Something is eating my potted annuals, particularly my petunias. Birds, doves and quail, hang around the pots, seemingly eating the plants, but perhaps they are eating bugs that are eating the plants. I have been spraying the plants with insect repellent and a product called Repel (for insects and animals). Is there some home made solution which could be used? Thanks. From drgarnett@msn.com Mon Nov 10 03:59:11 2003 From: drgarnett@msn.com (Donald Garnett) Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2003 20:59:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Ironwood and breaking branches Message-ID: Dear Lisa & Robert: I don't know how the previous owner's pruning of your ironwood might have affected it (without seeing the tree), but your watering practices are not the best for this tree. Ironwood is a drought-tolerant desert native. At this time of year it should be watered deeply (meaning to a soil depth of three feet, or several hours if you have a drip system) no more than once every 2 or 3 weeks - once a month during the winter. We have an ironwood about the same size as yours. Watering only once or twice a month, its very full - actually too full, so I have to think about pruning it again (ugh). These trees actually do quite better with minimum care, although you have to keep in mind that we are in the middle of a long-standing drought, so some supplemental watering is recommended. Good luck Don Garnett (not a Master Gardener) Tucson From meljoaz@earthlink.net Mon Nov 10 17:48:59 2003 From: meljoaz@earthlink.net (meljoaz@earthlink.net) Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 10:48:59 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311101749.hAAHmx8o015918@Ag.arizona.edu> We just planted a new dwarf Arizona Sweet Orange Tree. We notice that many leaves are curled and deformed looking. It does not appear that any bugs are on them - What is the problem? We also have a Mexican lime tree that has just a few leaves that look similar. Thank you for any help you may offer From ac93041@aol.com Mon Nov 10 19:20:20 2003 From: ac93041@aol.com (ac93041@aol.com) Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 14:20:20 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning Palo Brea and Jacaranda trees Message-ID: <84.1c0e449e.2ce13ef4@aol.com> --part1_84.1c0e449e.2ce13ef4_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I am new to the Phoenix, Arizone area. Can you give me any help on the pruning of Palo Brea and Jacaranda trees? Al Crandall ac93041@aol.com --part1_84.1c0e449e.2ce13ef4_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable   I am new to the Phoenix, Arizone area. Can you=20= give me any help on the pruning of Palo Brea and Jacaranda trees?


            &nbs= p;            &n= bsp;            =   Al Crandall

            &nbs= p;            &n= bsp;            = ac93041@aol.com --part1_84.1c0e449e.2ce13ef4_boundary-- From ttrew@bgcmp.org Mon Nov 10 19:47:53 2003 From: ttrew@bgcmp.org (ttrew@bgcmp.org) Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 12:47:53 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311101947.hAAJlr8o010618@Ag.arizona.edu> I just discovered some western subterranean termite nymphs in the core of a branch to my large, frontyard Arizona ash tree. The branch was dead and tore away from the tree very easily. I've been keeping my eye on this tree because, during this past spring, I noticed that the bark was blistering off in a vertical path starting about 5 feet from the base. At the very top of the blistered bark (about 12 feet from the bsae), I then noticed some holes a bit larger than the diameter of a pencil. At first I thought that ants were doing the damage, because I would always see ants racing along the damaged bark. The ash tree is about 30 years old. I have another ash tree in the front yard, but it does not appear to have any damage. What is the recommended course of action? I have not found any termite tunnels around my block home. I am going nuts thinking about what I should do. Please, please provide me with your advice. I fear that this ash tree may be suffering from both termites and borers. I look forward to receiving your response. You may call me at 602.343.1211 (work) or 623.937.5860 (home) if you wish. Thank you. Tricia Trew From biankis@hotmail.com Tue Nov 11 05:17:32 2003 From: biankis@hotmail.com (biankis@hotmail.com) Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 22:17:32 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311110517.hAB5HW8o005007@Ag.arizona.edu> Does a gardenia stand a chance for survival in Tucson? I just bought one I have in a pot under my porch. My questions are what should I do to keep it alive? How much sun does the plant need? What type of sun is better morning? How much water? How big of a pot does it need? As you can tell by my questions I am fairly new at this gardening thing, I bought the plant without knowing that our desert climate was not the best for gardenias. I appreciate any advice. Thank You. -Bianca From rodmcq6@highstream.net Mon Nov 10 23:37:03 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 16:37:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus with curled leaves References: <200311101749.hAAHmx8o015918@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <004201c3a7e3$8ce8fd00$ae31db43@ibmbna6040> A tiny insect called thrips is probably responsible for the curled and distorted leaves on your citrus trees. The damage is only cosmetic and usually does not require any treatment. Good Luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, November 10, 2003 10:48 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > We just planted a new dwarf Arizona Sweet Orange Tree. We notice that many leaves are curled and deformed looking. It does not appear that any bugs are on them - What is the problem? We also have a Mexican lime tree that has just a few leaves that look similar. Thank you for any help you may offer > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rodmcq6@highstream.net Mon Nov 10 23:31:29 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 16:31:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning Palo Brea and Jacaranda trees References: <84.1c0e449e.2ce13ef4@aol.com> Message-ID: <003601c3a7e2$c6596260$ae31db43@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0033_01C3A7A8.18261880 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi Al, The Master Gardener Manual has excellent info on pruning trees in the = chapter on Arborculture which is on line at=20 http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/=20 I am in the process of pruning about 40 Palo Breas and two Jacarandas, = If you live in the east valley and can come by in the mornings I will be = happy to show you do how to prune them. Email me back if you are = interested. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist----- Original Message -----=20 From: ac93041@aol.com=20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Monday, November 10, 2003 12:20 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning Palo Brea and Jacaranda trees I am new to the Phoenix, Arizone area. Can you give me any help on = the pruning of Palo Brea and Jacaranda trees? Al Crandall ac93041@aol.com ------=_NextPart_000_0033_01C3A7A8.18261880 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi Al,
The Master Gardener Manual has excellent info on = pruning trees=20 in  the chapter on Arborculture which is on line at
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs= /garden/mg/ 
 
I am in the process of pruning about 40 Palo Breas and two = Jacarandas, If=20 you live in the east valley and can come by in the mornings I will be = happy=20 to show you do how to prune them. Email me back if you are=20 interested.
 
Good luck.
 
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist----- Original Message -----
From:=20 ac93041@aol.com=20
Sent: Monday, November 10, 2003 = 12:20=20 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Pruning Palo=20 Brea and Jacaranda trees

  I am new to the Phoenix, Arizone area. Can = you give=20 me any help on the pruning of Palo Brea and Jacaranda=20 = trees?


         &= nbsp;           &n= bsp;           &nb= sp;     =20 Al=20 = Crandall

         &nb= sp;           &nbs= p;            = ;    =20 ac93041@aol.com=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0033_01C3A7A8.18261880-- From Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com Mon Nov 10 20:49:31 2003 From: Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com (Zelhart Alan-rpcs30) Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 13:49:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B9930707DD70CB@az33exm25.corp.mot.com> Leaf curling such as you describe is generally caused by thrips. Which are very hard to see with the naked eye. The damage is only cosmetic, and will not harm your fruit. -- Chat with you later, Alan -- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ----- Alan Zelhart gizmoaz@cox.net Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- ***** This will shut down Windows, do you want to play another game ? -----Original Message----- From: meljoaz@earthlink.net [mailto:meljoaz@earthlink.net] Sent: Monday, November 10, 2003 10:49 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We just planted a new dwarf Arizona Sweet Orange Tree. We notice that many leaves are curled and deformed looking. It does not appear that any bugs are on them - What is the problem? We also have a Mexican lime tree that has just a few leaves that look similar. Thank you for any help you may offer _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From kimorph@att.net Wed Nov 12 02:17:49 2003 From: kimorph@att.net (kimorph@att.net) Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 02:17:49 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] care of citrus trees in az Message-ID: <111220030217.19451.51cd@att.net> hello - we are new homeowners in az with; grapefruit lemon/lime orange trees in our backyard. we are having a problem with fruit splitting open as they ripen - are we overwatering or do we have other problems??? many trhanx jim and mary kimorph@att.net From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Nov 11 15:26:23 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 15:26:23 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] ocotillo care Message-ID: Answer to a similar question: Was the ocotillo bareroot or container-grown? These are treated differently and it would help us better answer your question. Best to plant this shrub (its not a cactus) in the fall when temperatures are cooler and the Ocotillo flat-headed larvae borers are not active. Remember this plants does not produce root hairs, so they take a long time to establish after bare-root planting. If any roots are broken or frayed at transplanting, make clean cuts to remove damaged portion. Dust roots with sulfur prior to planting to prevent root rot. Do not mulch or fertilize plants. Provide with well draining soil and avoid garden locations where plants receive excess moisture. If watering with drip irrigation place emitters at least 2 feet from base of plant. (Information taken from a book called Pruning, Planting and Care by Eric A. Johnson). I water our ocotillo rarely, and then only to supplement the rainfall we receive in Tucson. At most, I water the plant five or six times a year. In between rains/waterings, you would swear the plant was quite dead, except that the wands remain flexible. I do not fertilize this plant, and have been told that such is unnecessary for a native plant. The flowers are seasonal, showing in April, and are an annual event. I have seen mine bloom without a single leaf visible and when the wands are thick with leaves. It seems to make no difference - except that the leafless flowering is such a strange sight. By the way, hummingbirds love the blossoms. I have seen ocotillos kept perpetually in leaf by regular watering, but have read that this is not recommended, as the roots in moist soil might rot. And in fact, I have seen such ocotillos blown over in strong winds on a number of occasions, an indication that the root systems were not robust enough to hold the plant upright. To briefly summarize, do not mulch, do not fertilize, do not use vitamins; water sparingly to keep the soil moist - not wet, until established. Ocotillo are naturally leafless most of the year; the whole plant looks 'dead' until rain stimulates leaves to sprout. These leaves die and drop quickly when soil moisture dries out. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: agave@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2003 19:53:22 -0700 (MST) > >I just transplanted an fouquieria spendens/ Octillo. How much should I >water and for how long. I live in east mesa with native soil, did amend >with the Kellogg product that has rice hulls to ariate soil some. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Great deals on high-speed Internet access as low as $26.95. https://broadband.msn.com (Prices may vary by service area.) From sealoveraz@aol.com Tue Nov 11 14:23:21 2003 From: sealoveraz@aol.com (sealoveraz@aol.com) Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 07:23:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311111423.hABENL8o028736@Ag.arizona.edu> My lemon tree looks like it's dying. The leaves are turning yellow, the fruit is rotting and some of the branches we've cut backlook dead with dried up shriveled leaves on it. The tree is about 7 feet tall so not a huge one. Can I save it? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Nov 11 15:21:13 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 15:21:13 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] small urban lot, utility lines Message-ID: this is an excelent question. In researching an answer, I did not find specific guidelines for Arizona, but did find some good resources (see below). In general, you want to contact Blue Stake first to locate all underground utilities. Avoid planting over the lines. For trees, plant far enough away that the tree will not be destroyed if the utility has to be dug up. Linda Drew Master Gardener =========================== GOOD GENERAL information about placement (from U. of Ohio): http://ohioline.osu.edu/b845/b845_2.html Trees may cause problems by clogging storm sewers, drains and sewage systems with flowers, fruits, leaves or roots. Once the tree root gets into a sewer it will find water, air and nutrients that allow it to grow rapidly and clog the sewer. Fortunately, modern sewer installations involve cemented pipe that greatly reduces or eliminates this problem. Although these underground utilities need servicing infrequently, thought should be given to ensure that the lines could be dug up and serviced without destroying permanent plantings, such as trees. ------ Information from Miami/Dade, Florida: As a general rule, trees that will grow to a maximum height of less than 20 feet can be planted below or very close to overhead utility lines. Trees that top out at 30 feet need to be planted at least 20 feet from all surrounding utility lines. Large trees (taller than 30 feet when mature) should be planted at least 30 feet from all surrounding utility lines. Besides overhead lines, you need to remember that there are cables and pipes buried underground as well. For a free underground utility check of your property, contact “Sunshine State One” at 1.800.432.4770 ["BLUE STAKE" service in Arizona]. This service provides a comprehensive analysis of your property and lets you know where the utilities are buried on your property so you don’t accidentally damage them while planting your new tree. You will also want to plant your new tree a distance from these utilities so its roots don’t interfere with buried cables and pipes. ----- Trees and shrubs planted over underground utilities may be damaged or completely removed if utility lines must be dug up for service. (Benton, Washington) >From: freeair@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2003 15:03:06 -0700 (MST) > >We are planning a landscape design for as small urban lot in Phoenix. How >far away should we plant from underground utility lines (gas, water, sewer >and electrical)and a fire hydrant? For future reference were is this >information published? Should I contact each utility company to get there >recommendations? Is there a list of trees not recommended for such areas? > >-Chris > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ >From Beethoven to the Rolling Stones, your favorite music is always playing on MSN Radio Plus. No ads, no talk. Trial month FREE! http://join.msn.com/?page=offers/premiumradio From oooohflowers@cox.net Wed Nov 12 02:17:23 2003 From: oooohflowers@cox.net (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 19:17:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200311110517.hAB5HW8o005007@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Hi Bianca; You can grow gardenias in our deserts if you give them some special care and have luck on your side. I know people that have done very well with them and others (myself included) that have killed them in record time. Gardenias prefer acidic soil (our native soils are alkaline, just the opposite of what gardenias need). You are probably best off growing them in pots in a location where they get just a little sun each day, perhaps a NE exposure. Plant them in potting soil and fertilize them with special fertilizer for acid-loving plants. They might also require some supplemental iron as well. The larger the pot that you plant them in, the less often you will have to water. A nice 5-gallon container ought to suffice, make sure it has drainage holes in the bottom. This website provides some specific details about caring for gardenias: http://www.desert-tropicals.com/Plants/Rubiaceae/Gardenia_jasminoides.html Don't get discouraged if your gardenia doesn't make it. There are lots of other beautiful, fragrant plants that you can grow that won't require nearly as much fuss. If your gardenia does make it, you probably have an extremely green thumb and can grow anything! Good luck. Kelly -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of biankis@hotmail.com Sent: Monday, November 10, 2003 10:18 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Does a gardenia stand a chance for survival in Tucson? I just bought one I have in a pot under my porch. My questions are what should I do to keep it alive? How much sun does the plant need? What type of sun is better morning? How much water? How big of a pot does it need? As you can tell by my questions I am fairly new at this gardening thing, I bought the plant without knowing that our desert climate was not the best for gardenias. I appreciate any advice. Thank You. -Bianca _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From rodmcq6@highstream.net Tue Nov 11 22:48:32 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 15:48:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite watering References: <200311100113.hAA1Df8o020665@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <003601c3a8a5$f06dbe20$a52c0a3f@ibmbna6040> Since you didn't tell us how long or how often you watered your mesquite it is difficult to answer your question. However since you are only using a single one gallon dripper for watering your two year mesquite I suspect that the tree is not getting enough water. A one gallon dripper is adequate for watering a single petunia. Check out this website for info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Also available at many nurseries is a free booklet titled LANDSCAPE WATERING BY THE NUMBERS. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ---- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2003 6:13 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > We have a Texas Honey Mesquite with yellowing leaves. Its about 2 1/2years old. > It was on irrigation , three 1 gal. drippers, the first 1 1/2 year. The past year we its been on a one gallon dripper. > We live in Saddlebrooke, Northeast of Catalina. > So is it getting too much water or did not get enough? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From oooohflowers@cox.net Tue Nov 11 22:15:53 2003 From: oooohflowers@cox.net (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 15:15:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200311101947.hAAJlr8o010618@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Hi Tricia; For what it's worth, termites and most borers don't attack healthy trees. We can think of them as a clean-up crew, disposing of dead plant material. Borers usually attack trees that are showing signs of stress, often as a result of over-pruning or under-irrigation. Ash trees require a lot of water and, over time, often decline after a life-long struggle with insufficient irrigation. Remember that every time you irrigate your trees, the water should penetrate to at least 3 feet deep under the entire canopy of the tree. In the summertime, those ash trees should be watered that much every week. I wouldn't be surprised to find extensive decay in your tree. The borers and termites are just making their living off of the tree's misfortune. Chemical controls that are available for termites aren't labeled for use on living trees, so they will be very difficult to get rid of. If the tree isn't of significant value, I would consider removing it. If this is completely out of the question, you might contract a certified arborist to take a look and see how extensive the damage is to the tree and what can be done to hold it together. Here is a link to a publication that can help you find a qualified arborist: http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1003.pdf Good luck and let us know what happens. Kelly -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of ttrew@bgcmp.org Sent: Monday, November 10, 2003 12:48 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I just discovered some western subterranean termite nymphs in the core of a branch to my large, frontyard Arizona ash tree. The branch was dead and tore away from the tree very easily. I've been keeping my eye on this tree because, during this past spring, I noticed that the bark was blistering off in a vertical path starting about 5 feet from the base. At the very top of the blistered bark (about 12 feet from the bsae), I then noticed some holes a bit larger than the diameter of a pencil. At first I thought that ants were doing the damage, because I would always see ants racing along the damaged bark. The ash tree is about 30 years old. I have another ash tree in the front yard, but it does not appear to have any damage. What is the recommended course of action? I have not found any termite tunnels around my block home. I am going nuts thinking about what I should do. Please, please provide me with your advice. I fear that this ash tree may be suffering from both termites and borers. I look forward to receiving your response. You may call me at 602.343.1211 (work) or 623.937.5860 (home) if you wish. Thank you. Tricia Trew _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From oneredpepperdesign@hotmail.com Tue Nov 11 21:47:51 2003 From: oneredpepperdesign@hotmail.com (oneredpepperdesign@hotmail.com) Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 14:47:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311112147.hABLlp8o021571@Ag.arizona.edu> When is the average time for the Sauguaro to begin blooming, and how long after they are pollinated does the fruit appear? Also if a flower is not polinated, does it just dry up and fall off; how long does that process take? From HONOR@CHA.FORTHNET.GR Tue Nov 11 13:45:26 2003 From: HONOR@CHA.FORTHNET.GR (honor & jonathan bartley) Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 15:45:26 +0200 Subject: [Arid_gardener] fire damage to pine trees Message-ID: <000801c3a85a$10d62ae0$afb810d5@CPQ63428334105> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C3A86A.D35E53C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable We live in North Western Crete (Greece). In our garden we planted = about five years ago some pine trees which have flourished. However, = two weeks ago we suffered a bad fire in the area which ravaged our = garden. /The fire went through very quickly .. about four minutes .. = and the damage to the trees is not so much burning as scorching. The = needles have now lost their greeness and look grey/green. They are not = dropping and will not pull out. Are the needles irrevocably damaged or = will they recover? Does a pine tree have the ability to grow new = needles on the same branches? Will the trees survive with their = grey/green needles? It is important we know this as otherwise we will have to cut down the = trees and start all over again. Your advice would be very much appreciated. Regards, Jonathan & Honor Bartley ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C3A86A.D35E53C0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
We live in North Western Crete=20 (Greece).   In our garden we planted about five years ago some = pine=20 trees which have flourished.   However, two weeks ago we = suffered a=20 bad fire in the area which ravaged our garden.   /The fire = went=20 through very quickly .. about four minutes .. and the damage to the = trees is not=20 so much burning as scorching.   The needles have now lost = their=20 greeness and look grey/green.   They are not dropping and will = not=20 pull out.   Are the needles irrevocably damaged or will they=20 recover?   Does a pine tree have the ability to grow new = needles on=20 the same branches?   Will the trees survive with their = grey/green=20 needles?
It is important we know this as = otherwise we=20 will have to cut down the trees and start all over again.
Your advice would be very much=20 appreciated.
Regards,
Jonathan & Honor=20 Bartley
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C3A86A.D35E53C0-- From oooohflowers@cox.net Wed Nov 12 16:18:36 2003 From: oooohflowers@cox.net (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 09:18:36 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200311081803.hA8I3B8o014151@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Hi gibsshry; Lantana is an excellent choice for Goodyear, AZ. They come in a rainbow of colors and do very well in our hot, dry climate. They do suffer from frost damage and may require some pruning in the spring, after the last frost. UA publication AZ 1110 Groundcovers for Arizona Landscapes addresses the lantanas and can be found online at http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1110.pdf Your saguaro sounds like it's in trouble. How often are you watering it? Saguaros usually do quite well on rainfall alone. They are very sensitive to over watering and require good soil drainage. If their roots stay wet, they can rot and the plant dies as a result. They also do not require fertilizer, as they are adapted to our desert soils. Has the plant been exposed to trenching, construction activities, chemical exposures or other damaging factors? I would investigate the root system. Have they grown since transplant? Are they wet? Let us know what you find. Good luck. Kelly -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of gibshry@cox.net Sent: Saturday, November 08, 2003 11:03 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Is Lantana a good choice to plant in Good- year,AZ. I've a 8 yr old Saguaro. In the past 8-mo it has started to yellow [plant faces south, same as before being moved] from the base to the head. Used Vit.B @ time it was moved. Couple of times a year some cactus food. Now In the last 6-mo the plant is starting to lean to the north. It has always been healthy. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From oooohflowers@cox.net Wed Nov 12 16:08:32 2003 From: oooohflowers@cox.net (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 09:08:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200311112147.hABLlp8o021571@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C3A8FC.8BF79770 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello red pepper; Saguaros usually begin blooming anywhere from late April through June, depending on latitude and elevation. Fruits ripen approximately 30 days later (bringing white winged doves into the area in huge numbers). Flowers last 24 hours, opening at night and presenting their pollen. In Mexico and Southern Arizona, saguaros may be pollinated by certain bats. Here, in the northern reaches of the saguaro's range, left-over pollen is picked up and transferred by bees. Bees do a pretty good job of it, luckily for the saguaro. Unpollinated flowers usually shrivel up, but don't completely dry out, and fall off within a day or so. I ate a spent flower on a dare once and it was actually quite tasty! For more information on the life history of the saguaro and other Sonoran Desert organisms read A Natural History of the Sonoran Desert , a truly wonderful book edited by Stephen Phillips and Pat Comus. You can find excerpts online at: http://www.desertmuseum.org/books/nhsd_cacti.html I hope this helps. Kelly -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of oneredpepperdesign@hotmail.com Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2003 2:48 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When is the average time for the Sauguaro to begin blooming, and how long after they are pollinated does the fruit appear? Also if a flower is not polinated, does it just dry up and fall off; how long does that process take? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C3A8FC.8BF79770 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hello red pepper;

Saguaros usually begin = blooming=20 anywhere from late April through June, depending on latitude and=20 elevation.  Fruits ripen approximately 30 days later (bringing = white winged=20 doves into the area in huge numbers).  Flowers last 24 hours, = opening at=20 night and presenting their pollen.  In Mexico and Southern Arizona, = saguaros may be pollinated by certain bats.  Here, in the northern = reaches=20 of the saguaro's range, left-over pollen is picked up and transferred by = bees.  Bees do a pretty good job of it, luckily for the = saguaro. =20 Unpollinated flowers usually shrivel up, but don't completely dry out, = and fall=20 off within a day or so.  I ate a spent flower on a dare once and it = was=20 actually quite tasty!


For more information on the life = history of the=20 saguaro and other Sonoran Desert organisms read A Natural History of = the=20 Sonoran Desert , a truly wonderful book edited by Stephen Phillips = and Pat=20 Comus.
You can find excerpts online at: http://www.desertmuseum.org/books/nhsd_cacti.html
=

I hope this helps.

 
 
 
Kelly
 
 


-----Original Message-----
From:=20 arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu
[mailto:arid_gardener-a= dmin@Ag.arizona.edu]On=20 Behalf Of
oneredpepperdesign@hotmail.com
Sent: Tuesday, November = 11, 2003=20 2:48 PM
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Question=20 from Home-Hort WWW page


When is the average time for the = Sauguaro to=20 begin blooming, and how long after they are pollinated does the fruit = appear?=20 Also if a flower is not polinated, does it just dry up and fall off; how = long=20 does that process=20 take?


_______________________________________________
Arid_= gardener=20 mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener<= BR>

 ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C3A8FC.8BF79770-- From oooohflowers@cox.net Wed Nov 12 15:32:24 2003 From: oooohflowers@cox.net (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 08:32:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] care of citrus trees in az In-Reply-To: <111220030217.19451.51cd@att.net> Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C3A8F7.7F39AAA0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Jim and Mary; I found the answer to your question at the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension Home Horticulture website: http://cals.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm Citrus fruit split Inappropriate water management leads to sunburn, or tough rind that is then unable to expand as fruit matures. There is nothing to be done for this season, monitor irrigation carefully next summer. One summer, when I just couldn't drag myself outside to water my trees, my citrus and my pomegranates split! Good luck Kelly -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of kimorph@att.net Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2003 7:18 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] care of citrus trees in az hello - we are new homeowners in az with; grapefruit lemon/lime orange trees in our backyard. we are having a problem with fruit splitting open as they ripen - are we over watering or do we have other problems??? many trhanx jim and mary kimorph@att.net _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C3A8F7.7F39AAA0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hi Jim and Mary;

I found the answer to your question at the Maricopa = County=20 Cooperative Extension Home Horticulture website: h= ttp://cals.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm &n= bsp;

Citrus fruit split
Inappropriate water = management leads=20 to sunburn, or tough rind that is then unable to expand as fruit = matures. There=20 is nothing to be done for this season, monitor irrigation carefully next = summer.

One summer, when I just = couldn't drag=20 myself outside to water my trees, my citrus and my pomegranates = split!

 
Good luck

Kelly

 
 




-----Original Message-----
From:=20 arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu
[mailto:arid_gardener-a= dmin@Ag.arizona.edu]On=20 Behalf Of kimorph@att.net
Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2003 7:18 = PM
To:=20 arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: [Arid_gardener] care of citrus = trees in=20 az


hello - we are new homeowners in az=20 with;
     grapefruit
     = lemon/lime
     orange
trees in our = backyard.  we=20 are having a problem with fruit splitting open as
they ripen - are we = over=20 watering or do we have other problems???

   many=20 trhanx   jim and mary   =20 kimorph@att.net
_______________________________________________
Ari= d_gardener=20 mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener<= BR>

 ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C3A8F7.7F39AAA0-- From cchare@qwest.net Wed Nov 12 22:10:26 2003 From: cchare@qwest.net (cchare@qwest.net) Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 15:10:26 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311122210.hACMAQ8o005140@Ag.arizona.edu> I have quail in my back yard, and they are eating my potted plants. (I know that many of you don't believe they do this, but read this from the internet:"Gambel’s quail eat leaves, shoots, some fruit, and a few insects." What spray can I use to keep the birds from eating the plants? Thanks. Curtis Hare From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Nov 13 13:35:10 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 13:35:10 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Quail in the garden Message-ID: I don't know of any sprays that would deter the quail. The most effective deterent is exclusion -- putting up a barrier to keep them out, usually chicken wire. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: cchare@qwest.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 15:10:26 -0700 (MST) > >I have quail in my back yard, and they are eating my potted plants. (I >know that many of you don't believe they do this, but read this from the >internet:"Gambel’s quail eat leaves, shoots, some fruit, and a few >insects." What spray can I use to keep the birds from eating the plants? >Thanks. Curtis Hare > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Send a QuickGreet with MSN Messenger http://www.msnmessenger-download.com/tracking/cdp_games From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Nov 13 14:21:01 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 14:21:01 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] termites in ash tree Message-ID: Kelly's answer is excellent. I checked with the UA entomologist and he stated The tree sounds like it has other problems which makes it available to wood borers. Borers and termites are only working at recycling dead wood. There is no reason to think they are causing any problems to the ash tree. Any course of action would be to find out if there are water or nutrient problems or some physical problem with the tree. The termites and borers are a result of other damage, NOT the cause of the damage. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Ooooh Flowers!" >To: , >Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 15:15:53 -0700 > >Hi Tricia; > >For what it's worth, termites and most borers don't attack healthy trees. >We can think of them as a clean-up crew, disposing of dead plant material. >Borers usually attack trees that are showing signs of stress, often as a >result of over-pruning or under-irrigation. Ash trees require a lot of >water and, over time, often decline after a life-long struggle with >insufficient irrigation. >Remember that every time you irrigate your trees, the water should >penetrate >to at least 3 feet deep under the entire canopy of the tree. In the >summertime, those ash trees should be watered that much every week. > >I wouldn't be surprised to find extensive decay in your tree. The borers >and termites are just making their living off of the tree's misfortune. >Chemical controls that are available for termites aren't labeled for use on >living trees, so they will be very difficult to get rid of. If the tree >isn't of significant value, I would consider removing it. If this is >completely out of the question, you might contract a certified arborist to >take a look and see how extensive the damage is to the tree and what can be >done to hold it together. Here is a link to a publication that can help >you >find a qualified arborist: http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1003.pdf > >Good luck and let us know what happens. > > >Kelly > > > > >-----Original Message----- >From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu >[mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of ttrew@bgcmp.org >Sent: Monday, November 10, 2003 12:48 PM >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > >I just discovered some western subterranean termite nymphs in the core of a >branch to my large, frontyard Arizona ash tree. The branch was dead and >tore away from the tree very easily. > >I've been keeping my eye on this tree because, during this past spring, I >noticed that the bark was blistering off in a vertical path starting about >5 >feet from the base. At the very top of the blistered bark (about 12 feet >from the bsae), I then noticed some holes a bit larger than the diameter of >a pencil. At first I thought that ants were doing the damage, because I >would always see ants racing along the damaged bark. > >The ash tree is about 30 years old. I have another ash tree in the front >yard, but it does not appear to have any damage. > >What is the recommended course of action? I have not found any termite >tunnels around my block home. I am going nuts thinking about what I should >do. Please, please provide me with your advice. I fear that this ash tree >may be suffering from both termites and borers. > >I look forward to receiving your response. You may call me at 602.343.1211 >(work) or 623.937.5860 (home) if you wish. Thank you. > >Tricia Trew > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Frustrated with dial-up? Get high-speed for as low as $26.95. https://broadband.msn.com (Prices may vary by service area.) From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Nov 13 14:10:02 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 14:10:02 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] quail and doves in garden Message-ID: The most effective approach is exclusion, putting up chickenwire (or similar) enclossures around the plants that you want to protect. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: cchare@qwest.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2003 15:26:35 -0700 (MST) > >Something is eating my potted annuals, particularly my petunias. Birds, >doves and quail, hang around the pots, seemingly eating the plants, but >perhaps they are eating bugs that are eating the plants. > >I have been spraying the plants with insect repellent and a product called >Repel (for insects and animals). Is there some home made solution which >could be used? Thanks. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN Messenger with backgrounds, emoticons and more. http://www.msnmessenger-download.com/tracking/cdp_customize From hojo60@worldnet.att.net Thu Nov 13 16:01:16 2003 From: hojo60@worldnet.att.net (hojo60@worldnet.att.net) Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 09:01:16 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311131601.hADG1F8o014658@Ag.arizona.edu> Have been growing zucchini for months in large pots in Glendale AZ. Plenty of flowers, but no fruit. The flowers are large, last a while and then die. What am I doing wrong? From rodmcq6@highstream.net Thu Nov 13 17:19:06 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 10:19:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: sumac..... References: <20031112.230515.-562421.3.rhailey1@juno.com> Message-ID: <001301c3aa0a$3fae7aa0$4ba9db43@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01C3A9CF.91B52C80 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Raymond, The sumac that you are asking about is very likely an African Sumac = (Rhus lancea). Yes it does look quite different from the sumacs that = grow in the northwest. The African Sumac is a native of the arid lands = of South Africa and does well in the low desert. It cannot handle temps = much under 20F so would not grow in most of the North West. Hope this answers your question. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist Message -----=20 From: rhailey1@juno.com=20 To: rodmcq6@highstream.net=20 Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2003 11:01 PM Subject: sumac..... I live in Palm Springs CA I showed a nurseryman a tree we have here = and ask him the name. He said it was=20 a sumac..... I come from the NW....WA state....and I know what = sumacs look like....even the elkhorn variety. Is there another sumac.....that could be the one that is common here = in The Desert Area of Palm Springs, CA.? Thank you rhailey1@juno.com Raymond Hailey... ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01C3A9CF.91B52C80 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Raymond,
The sumac that you are asking about is very likely = an African=20 Sumac (Rhus lancea). Yes it does look quite different from the sumacs = that grow=20 in the northwest. The African Sumac is a native of the arid lands of = South=20 Africa and does well in the low desert. It cannot handle temps much = under 20F so=20 would not grow in most of the North West.
 
Hope this answers your question.
 
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
Message -----
From:=20 rhailey1@juno.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 12, = 2003 11:01=20 PM
Subject: sumac.....

 
I live in Palm Springs CA    I showed a nurseryman = a tree=20 we have here and ask him the name.  He said it was
a sumac.....    I come from the NW....WA=20 state....and I know what sumacs look = like....even the=20 elkhorn variety.
 
Is there another sumac.....that could be = the one=20 that is common here in The Desert Area of Palm Springs, = CA.?
 
Thank you      rhailey1@juno.com   =    =20 Raymond Hailey...
------=_NextPart_000_0010_01C3A9CF.91B52C80-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Nov 13 16:30:35 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 16:30:35 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] fire damage to pine trees Message-ID: Jonathan & Honor Bartley The damage your pine trees suffered sounds like a moderate fire intensity. In order for a conifer tree to survive, some of the roots, the cambium of the main trunk, and buds must survive. The cambium is the sensitive layer of growing cells that produces the vascular system that conducts water and nutrients throughout the tree. The bark insulates the cambium from the damaging intensity of a fire; the thicker the bark, the better the protection. Bark thickness varies with age and differs by species. The amount of scorched foliage in the tree crown can predict conifer survival to a certain degree. Even with severe scorch damage, the buds may survive and grow the following spring. Basing survival estimates on scorch alone can be misleading; foliage color after a fire can be deceptive. Buds should be carefully examined – they should be firm and the terminal stem flexible. The bud or stem should not break off easily. The following website offers some information (skip to the section an "assessing tree damage"). http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/natresources/az1294/ You may also want to contact your local forest authority for specific information for your location. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "honor & jonathan bartley" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] fire damage to pine trees >Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 15:45:26 +0200 > >We live in North Western Crete (Greece). In our garden we planted about >five years ago some pine trees which have flourished. However, two weeks >ago we suffered a bad fire in the area which ravaged our garden. /The >fire went through very quickly .. about four minutes .. and the damage to >the trees is not so much burning as scorching. The needles have now lost >their greeness and look grey/green. They are not dropping and will not >pull out. Are the needles irrevocably damaged or will they recover? >Does a pine tree have the ability to grow new needles on the same branches? > Will the trees survive with their grey/green needles? >It is important we know this as otherwise we will have to cut down the >trees and start all over again. >Your advice would be very much appreciated. >Regards, >Jonathan & Honor Bartley _________________________________________________________________ >From Beethoven to the Rolling Stones, your favorite music is always playing on MSN Radio Plus. No ads, no talk. Trial month FREE! http://join.msn.com/?page=offers/premiumradio From cstephens@infinet-is.com Thu Nov 13 17:18:01 2003 From: cstephens@infinet-is.com (Charles Stephens) Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 10:18:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Squash Problem References: <200311131601.hADG1F8o014658@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <002101c3aa0a$18e28880$e0da13d8@default> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01C3A9CF.6B44C7E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hojo, You squash are probably not being pollinated. See = http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2003-May/000292.html for = an explaination the problem and how to deal with it. ----- Original Message -----=20 From: hojo60@worldnet.att.net=20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2003 9:01 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Have been growing zucchini for months in large pots in Glendale AZ. = Plenty of flowers, but no fruit. The flowers are large, last a while and = then die. What am I doing wrong? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01C3A9CF.6B44C7E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hojo,
You squash are probably not being pollinated. See http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2003-May/000292.html=  for=20 an explaination the problem and how to deal with it.
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 hojo60@worldnet.att.net
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu =
Sent: Thursday, November 13, = 2003 9:01=20 AM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Question from=20 Home-Hort WWW page

Have been growing zucchini for months in large pots in = Glendale=20 AZ. Plenty of flowers, but no fruit. The flowers are large, last a = while and=20 then die.  What am I doing=20 = wrong?

_______________________________________________
Arid_gar= dener=20 mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu=
http://Ag.A= rizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
------=_NextPart_000_001E_01C3A9CF.6B44C7E0-- From ttrew@bgclubs-phx.org Thu Nov 13 20:21:58 2003 From: ttrew@bgclubs-phx.org (Tricia Trew) Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 13:21:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] RE: Termites & borers in ash tree Message-ID: There is one other interesting thing about this ash tree that I failed to mention. Each summer there are thousands of cicadas that emerge from under its canopy. You can literally stand under the tree in the evening during cicada season, and one or two of the little buggars will be on your feet crawling upwards within seconds. I frankly like the little guys and have researched their effects on tree roots. All of my research indicates the cicadas are harmless. Nevertheless, I have so many cicadas emerging under the tree each year that I still worry they are sucking my tree's roots dry! Could there possibly be a relationship between the excessive cicadas and the afflicted ash tree and that, in extreme cases, the cicadas can affect the health of an Arizona ash tree? I thought that I would mention the cicada anomaly to you. I am just wrought with guilt and concern over my ash tree and would most welcome your expeditious response. Thank you very much. Tricia Trew 602.343.1211 (o) 623.937.5860 (h) -----Original Message----- From: Linda Drew [mailto:drew_linda@hotmail.com] Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2003 7:21 AM To: oooohflowers@cox.net; Tricia Trew; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] termites in ash tree Kelly's answer is excellent. I checked with the UA entomologist and he stated The tree sounds like it has other problems which makes it available to wood borers. Borers and termites are only working at recycling dead wood. There is no reason to think they are causing any problems to the ash tree. Any course of action would be to find out if there are water or nutrient problems or some physical problem with the tree. The termites and borers are a result of other damage, NOT the cause of the damage. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Ooooh Flowers!" >To: , >Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 15:15:53 -0700 > >Hi Tricia; > >For what it's worth, termites and most borers don't attack healthy >trees. We can think of them as a clean-up crew, disposing of dead plant >material. Borers usually attack trees that are showing signs of stress, >often as a result of over-pruning or under-irrigation. Ash trees >require a lot of water and, over time, often decline after a life-long >struggle with insufficient irrigation. Remember that every time you >irrigate your trees, the water should penetrate >to at least 3 feet deep under the entire canopy of the tree. In the >summertime, those ash trees should be watered that much every week. > >I wouldn't be surprised to find extensive decay in your tree. The >borers and termites are just making their living off of the tree's >misfortune. Chemical controls that are available for termites aren't >labeled for use on living trees, so they will be very difficult to get >rid of. If the tree isn't of significant value, I would consider >removing it. If this is completely out of the question, you might >contract a certified arborist to take a look and see how extensive the >damage is to the tree and what can be done to hold it together. Here >is a link to a publication that can help you find a qualified arborist: >http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1003.pdf > >Good luck and let us know what happens. > > >Kelly > > > > >-----Original Message----- >From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu >[mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of ttrew@bgcmp.org >Sent: Monday, November 10, 2003 12:48 PM >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > >I just discovered some western subterranean termite nymphs in the core >of a branch to my large, frontyard Arizona ash tree. The branch was >dead and tore away from the tree very easily. > >I've been keeping my eye on this tree because, during this past spring, >I noticed that the bark was blistering off in a vertical path starting >about 5 feet from the base. At the very top of the blistered bark >(about 12 feet from the bsae), I then noticed some holes a bit larger >than the diameter of a pencil. At first I thought that ants were doing >the damage, because I would always see ants racing along the damaged >bark. > >The ash tree is about 30 years old. I have another ash tree in the >front yard, but it does not appear to have any damage. > >What is the recommended course of action? I have not found any termite >tunnels around my block home. I am going nuts thinking about what I >should do. Please, please provide me with your advice. I fear that >this ash tree may be suffering from both termites and borers. > >I look forward to receiving your response. You may call me at >602.343.1211 >(work) or 623.937.5860 (home) if you wish. Thank you. > >Tricia Trew > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Frustrated with dial-up? Get high-speed for as low as $26.95. https://broadband.msn.com (Prices may vary by service area.) From LisaGPain@msn.com Thu Nov 13 22:14:15 2003 From: LisaGPain@msn.com (LisaGPain@msn.com) Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 15:14:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311132214.hADMEF8o011344@Ag.arizona.edu> Hi. I have a Palo Brea palo verde that recently died. Over a period of weeks, a brown, fuzzy substance covered the leaves/trunk. Could anyone tell me what type of disease killed my tree? Thank you! From debbie.compitello@bestwestern.com Thu Nov 13 20:08:34 2003 From: debbie.compitello@bestwestern.com (debbie.compitello@bestwestern.com) Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 13:08:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311132008.hADK8Y8o011940@Ag.arizona.edu> We have a problem with oleanders that were planted 40 years ago on the side of our condo;s. They were planted 4' above our sewer lines and they have damaged our plumbing severly. We would like to know how to kill them and then pull the roots up never to plant anything again. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Nov 14 13:53:34 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 13:53:34 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] no fruit on zucchini squash Message-ID: the problem could be one of two things: 1) the plant is producing only male flowers (females have a tiny squash behind the flower) -- this sometimes happens but I have no cause for why this happens 2) the flowers are not being pollinated. Do you see lots of bees working on your flowers? You may need to hand-pollinate by dusting the male flowers over the female flowers Hope this helps. If neither of these seems to be true for you, write back and we can try other possibilities. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: hojo60@worldnet.att.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 09:01:16 -0700 (MST) > >Have been growing zucchini for months in large pots in Glendale AZ. Plenty >of flowers, but no fruit. The flowers are large, last a while and then die. > What am I doing wrong? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Concerned that messages may bounce because your Hotmail account is over limit? Get Hotmail Extra Storage! http://join.msn.com/?PAGE=features/es From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Nov 14 13:48:31 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 13:48:31 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] cicadas and ash tree Message-ID: Hi, Tricia I also have quite a few cicadas (not as many as you!) and have not noticed any damage from them. I did some literature searching, too, and agree with your conclusion that these guys do not seem to cause damage. Water is such a critical component here in the desert that I think that is what may be affecting the tree. Linda >From: "Tricia Trew" >To: , >CC: "Linda Drew " > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] RE: Termites & borers in ash tree >Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 13:21:58 -0700 > >There is one other interesting thing about this ash tree that I failed >to mention. Each summer there are thousands of cicadas that emerge from >under its canopy. You can literally stand under the tree in the evening >during cicada season, and one or two of the little buggars will be on >your feet crawling upwards within seconds. I frankly like the little >guys and have researched their effects on tree roots. All of my >research indicates the cicadas are harmless. Nevertheless, I have so >many cicadas emerging under the tree each year that I still worry they >are sucking my tree's roots dry! Could there possibly be a relationship >between the excessive cicadas and the afflicted ash tree and that, in >extreme cases, the cicadas can affect the health of an Arizona ash tree? > >I thought that I would mention the cicada anomaly to you. I am just >wrought with guilt and concern over my ash tree and would most welcome >your expeditious response. Thank you very much. > >Tricia Trew >602.343.1211 (o) >623.937.5860 (h) > >-----Original Message----- >From: Linda Drew [mailto:drew_linda@hotmail.com] >Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2003 7:21 AM >To: oooohflowers@cox.net; Tricia Trew; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] termites in ash tree > > > >Kelly's answer is excellent. > >I checked with the UA entomologist and he stated >The tree sounds like it has other problems which makes it available to >wood >borers. >Borers and termites are only working at recycling dead wood. There is no > >reason to >think they are causing any problems to the ash tree. Any course of >action >would be >to find out if there are water or nutrient problems or some physical >problem >with the >tree. The termites and borers are a result of other damage, NOT the >cause of >the >damage. > >Linda Drew >Master Gardener > > > >From: "Ooooh Flowers!" > >To: , > >Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 15:15:53 -0700 > > > >Hi Tricia; > > > >For what it's worth, termites and most borers don't attack healthy > >trees. We can think of them as a clean-up crew, disposing of dead plant > > >material. Borers usually attack trees that are showing signs of stress, > > >often as a result of over-pruning or under-irrigation. Ash trees > >require a lot of water and, over time, often decline after a life-long > >struggle with insufficient irrigation. Remember that every time you > >irrigate your trees, the water should penetrate > >to at least 3 feet deep under the entire canopy of the tree. In the > >summertime, those ash trees should be watered that much every week. > > > >I wouldn't be surprised to find extensive decay in your tree. The > >borers and termites are just making their living off of the tree's > >misfortune. Chemical controls that are available for termites aren't > >labeled for use on living trees, so they will be very difficult to get > >rid of. If the tree isn't of significant value, I would consider > >removing it. If this is completely out of the question, you might > >contract a certified arborist to take a look and see how extensive the > >damage is to the tree and what can be done to hold it together. Here > >is a link to a publication that can help you find a qualified arborist: > > >http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1003.pdf > > > >Good luck and let us know what happens. > > > > > >Kelly > > > > > > > > > >-----Original Message----- > >From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu > >[mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of ttrew@bgcmp.org > >Sent: Monday, November 10, 2003 12:48 PM > >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > > > > >I just discovered some western subterranean termite nymphs in the core > >of a branch to my large, frontyard Arizona ash tree. The branch was > >dead and tore away from the tree very easily. > > > >I've been keeping my eye on this tree because, during this past spring, > > >I noticed that the bark was blistering off in a vertical path starting > >about 5 feet from the base. At the very top of the blistered bark > >(about 12 feet from the bsae), I then noticed some holes a bit larger > >than the diameter of a pencil. At first I thought that ants were doing > > >the damage, because I would always see ants racing along the damaged > >bark. > > > >The ash tree is about 30 years old. I have another ash tree in the > >front yard, but it does not appear to have any damage. > > > >What is the recommended course of action? I have not found any termite > > >tunnels around my block home. I am going nuts thinking about what I > >should do. Please, please provide me with your advice. I fear that > >this ash tree may be suffering from both termites and borers. > > > >I look forward to receiving your response. You may call me at > >602.343.1211 > >(work) or 623.937.5860 (home) if you wish. Thank you. > > > >Tricia Trew > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Arid_gardener mailing list > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Arid_gardener mailing list > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > >_________________________________________________________________ >Frustrated with dial-up? Get high-speed for as low as $26.95. >https://broadband.msn.com (Prices may vary by service area.) > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Concerned that messages may bounce because your Hotmail account is over limit? Get Hotmail Extra Storage! http://join.msn.com/?PAGE=features/es From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Nov 14 13:57:50 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 13:57:50 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palo brea died, bbrown fuzzy substance Message-ID: It is hard to tell what this might be - perhaps a fungus? (but that might be a secondary issue after the tree is already dying). Do you still have samples of the tree and the substance? That would help us determine what the brwon substance is. If you can, take samles to your nearest Cooperative Extension Office. (for Arizona, check cals.arizona.edu/extension). Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: LisaGPain@msn.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 15:14:15 -0700 (MST) > >Hi. I have a Palo Brea palo verde that recently died. Over a period of >weeks, a brown, fuzzy substance covered the leaves/trunk. Could anyone >tell me what type of disease killed my tree? Thank you! > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Frustrated with dial-up? Get high-speed for as low as $26.95. https://broadband.msn.com (Prices may vary by service area.) From oooohflowers@cox.net Thu Nov 13 23:23:50 2003 From: oooohflowers@cox.net (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 16:23:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] RE: Termites & borers in ash tree In-Reply-To: Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0029_01C3AA02.8593AC50 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Golly Tricia, you've got me. Although cicadas rarely cause any significant root damage, they don't usually emerge by the thousands from beneath any one tree. It is probably possible that such a huge number of them could damage the tree roots and thereby interfere with the tree's ability to take up water. Here's a link to The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension Fact Sheet MC 76, a Cicada publication: http://behave.net/urbanipm/insects/cicadas.html Is anyone on this listserve aware of any significant damage caused by the feeding behavior of cicadas? I'm still stubbornly holding on to my belief that the tree's problems are most likely caused by under-irrigation or over-pruning. Do you know if the tree may have been exposed to either of those situations? Kelly -----Original Message-----From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Tricia Trew Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2003 1:22 PM To: oooohflowers@cox.net; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Cc: Linda Drew Subject: [Arid_gardener] RE: Termites & borers in ash tree Importance: High There is one other interesting thing about this ash tree that I failed to mention. Each summer there are thousands of cicadas that emerge from under its canopy. You can literally stand under the tree in the evening during cicada season, and one or two of the little buggars will be on your feet crawling upwards within seconds. I frankly like the little guys and have researched their effects on tree roots. All of my research indicates the cicadas are harmless. Nevertheless, I have so many cicadas emerging under the tree each year that I still worry they are sucking my tree's roots dry! Could there possibly be a relationship between the excessive cicadas and the afflicted ash tree and that, in extreme cases, the cicadas can affect the health of an Arizona ash tree? I thought that I would mention the cicada anomaly to you. I am just wrought with guilt and concern over my ash tree and would most welcome your expeditious response. Thank you very much. Tricia Trew 602.343.1211 (o) 623.937.5860 (h) -----Original Message----- From: Linda Drew [mailto:drew_linda@hotmail.com] Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2003 7:21 AM To: oooohflowers@cox.net; Tricia Trew; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] termites in ash tree Kelly's answer is excellent. I checked with the UA entomologist and he stated The tree sounds like it has other problems which makes it available to wood borers. Borers and termites are only working at recycling dead wood. There is no reason to think they are causing any problems to the ash tree. Any course of action would be to find out if there are water or nutrient problems or some physical problem with the tree. The termites and borers are a result of other damage, NOT the cause of the damage. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Ooooh Flowers!" >To: , >Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 15:15:53 -0700 > >Hi Tricia; > >For what it's worth, termites and most borers don't attack healthy >trees. We can think of them as a clean-up crew, disposing of dead plant >material. Borers usually attack trees that are showing signs of stress, >often as a result of over-pruning or under-irrigation. Ash trees >require a lot of water and, over time, often decline after a life-long >struggle with insufficient irrigation. Remember that every time you >irrigate your trees, the water should penetrate >to at least 3 feet deep under the entire canopy of the tree. In the >summertime, those ash trees should be watered that much every week. > >I wouldn't be surprised to find extensive decay in your tree. The >borers and termites are just making their living off of the tree's >misfortune. Chemical controls that are available for termites aren't >labeled for use on living trees, so they will be very difficult to get >rid of. If the tree isn't of significant value, I would consider >removing it. If this is completely out of the question, you might >contract a certified arborist to take a look and see how extensive the >damage is to the tree and what can be done to hold it together. Here >is a link to a publication that can help you find a qualified arborist: >http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1003.pdf > >Good luck and let us know what happens. > > >Kelly > > > > >-----Original Message----- >From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu >[mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of ttrew@bgcmp.org >Sent: Monday, November 10, 2003 12:48 PM >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > >I just discovered some western subterranean termite nymphs in the core >of a branch to my large, frontyard Arizona ash tree. The branch was >dead and tore away from the tree very easily. > >I've been keeping my eye on this tree because, during this past spring, >I noticed that the bark was blistering off in a vertical path starting >about 5 feet from the base. At the very top of the blistered bark >(about 12 feet from the bsae), I then noticed some holes a bit larger >than the diameter of a pencil. At first I thought that ants were doing >the damage, because I would always see ants racing along the damaged >bark. > >The ash tree is about 30 years old. I have another ash tree in the >front yard, but it does not appear to have any damage. > >What is the recommended course of action? I have not found any termite >tunnels around my block home. I am going nuts thinking about what I >should do. Please, please provide me with your advice. I fear that >this ash tree may be suffering from both termites and borers. > >I look forward to receiving your response. You may call me at >602.343.1211 >(work) or 623.937.5860 (home) if you wish. Thank you. > >Tricia Trew > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Frustrated with dial-up? Get high-speed for as low as $26.95. https://broadband.msn.com (Prices may vary by service area.) _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener ------=_NextPart_000_0029_01C3AA02.8593AC50 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Golly Tricia, you've got me.  Although = cicadas rarely=20 cause any significant root damage, they don't usually emerge by the=20 thousands from beneath any one tree.  It is probably = possible that=20 such a huge number of them could damage the tree roots and thereby = interfere=20 with the tree's ability to take up water. 
Here's a link to The = University of Arizona Cooperative Extension Fact Sheet MC 76, a Cicada=20 publication: http://behave.net/urbanipm/insects/cicadas.html

Is anyone on this listserve aware of any = significant damage=20 caused by the feeding behavior of cicadas?


I'm still=20 stubbornly holding on to my belief that the tree's problems are most = likely=20 caused by under-irrigation or over-pruning.  Do you know if the = tree may=20 have been exposed to either of those situations?

Kelly

-----Original Message-----From:=20 arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu
[mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On=20 Behalf Of Tricia Trew
Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2003 1:22 = PM
To:=20 oooohflowers@cox.net; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Cc: Linda = Drew
Subject:=20 [Arid_gardener] RE: Termites & borers in ash tree
Importance:=20 High


There is one other interesting thing about this ash tree = that I=20 failed
to mention.  Each summer there are thousands of cicadas = that=20 emerge from
under its canopy.  You can literally stand under the = tree in=20 the evening
during cicada season, and one or two of the little = buggars will=20 be on
your feet crawling upwards within seconds.  I frankly like = the=20 little
guys and have researched their effects on tree roots.  = All of=20 my
research indicates the cicadas are harmless.  Nevertheless, I = have=20 so
many cicadas emerging under the tree each year that I still worry=20 they
are sucking my tree's roots dry!  Could there possibly be a = relationship
between the excessive cicadas and the afflicted ash tree = and=20 that, in
extreme cases, the cicadas can affect the health of an = Arizona ash=20 tree?

I thought that I would mention the cicada anomaly to = you.  I=20 am just
wrought with guilt and concern over my ash tree and would = most=20 welcome
your expeditious response.  Thank you very = much.

Tricia=20 Trew
602.343.1211 (o)
623.937.5860 (h)

-----Original=20 Message-----
From: Linda Drew [mailto:drew_linda@hotmail.com]
Sent: Thursday,=20 November 13, 2003 7:21 AM
To: oooohflowers@cox.net; Tricia Trew;=20 arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] termites in = ash=20 tree



Kelly's answer is excellent.

I checked with = the UA=20 entomologist and he stated
The tree sounds like it has other problems = which=20 makes it available to
wood
borers.
Borers and termites are only = working=20 at recycling dead wood. There is no

reason to
think they are = causing=20 any problems to the ash tree. Any course of
action
would be
to = find out=20 if there are water or nutrient problems or some = physical
problem
with=20 the
tree. The termites and borers are a result of other damage, NOT=20 the
cause of
the
damage.

Linda Drew
Master=20 Gardener


>From: "Ooooh Flowers!"=20 <oooohflowers@cox.net>
>To: <ttrew@bgcmp.org>,=20 <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
>Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] = Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2003 15:15:53=20 -0700
>
>Hi Tricia;
>
>For what it's worth, = termites and=20 most borers don't attack healthy
>trees. We can think of them as a = clean-up crew, disposing of dead plant

>material. Borers = usually=20 attack trees that are showing signs of stress,

>often as a = result of=20 over-pruning or under-irrigation.  Ash trees
>require a lot = of water=20 and, over time, often decline after a life-long
>struggle with=20 insufficient irrigation. Remember that every time you
>irrigate = your=20 trees, the water should penetrate
>to at least 3 feet deep under = the=20 entire canopy of the tree.  In the
>summertime, those ash = trees=20 should be watered that much every week.
>
>I wouldn't be = surprised=20 to find extensive decay in your tree.  The
>borers and = termites are=20 just making their living off of the tree's
>misfortune. Chemical = controls=20 that are available for termites aren't
>labeled for use on living = trees,=20 so they will be very difficult to get
>rid of.  If the tree = isn't of=20 significant value, I would consider
>removing it.  If this is = completely out of the question, you might
>contract a certified = arborist=20 to take a look and see how extensive the
>damage is to the tree = and what=20 can be done to hold it together.  Here
>is a link to a = publication=20 that can help you find a qualified arborist:

>http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1003.pdf
>
>Good luck and let us know what=20 happens.
>
>
>Kelly
>
>
>
>
= >-----Original=20 Message-----
>From: = arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu
>[mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On=20 Behalf Of ttrew@bgcmp.org
>Sent: Monday, November 10, 2003 12:48=20 PM
>To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
>Subject: = [Arid_gardener]=20 Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>
>
>I just = discovered some=20 western subterranean termite nymphs in the core
>of a branch to my = large,=20 frontyard Arizona ash tree.  The branch was
>dead and tore = away from=20 the tree very easily.
>
>I've been keeping my eye on this = tree=20 because, during this past spring,

>I noticed that the bark was = blistering off in a vertical path starting
>about 5 feet from the=20 base.  At the very top of the blistered bark
>(about 12 feet = from the=20 bsae), I then noticed some holes a bit larger
>than the diameter = of a=20 pencil.  At first I thought that ants were doing

>the = damage,=20 because I would always see ants racing along the=20 damaged
>bark.
>
>The ash tree is about 30 years = old.  I=20 have another ash tree in the
>front yard, but it does not appear = to have=20 any damage.
>
>What is the recommended course of = action?  I=20 have not found any termite

>tunnels around my block = home.  I am=20 going nuts thinking about what I
>should do.  Please, please = provide=20 me with your advice. I fear that
>this ash tree may be suffering = from both=20 termites and borers.
>
>I look forward to receiving your=20 response.  You may call me at
>602.343.1211
>(work) or=20 623.937.5860 (home) if you wish.  Thank you.
>
>Tricia=20 Trew
>
>_______________________________________________
&g= t;Arid_gardener=20 mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener<= BR>>
>
>____________________________________________= ___
>Arid_gardener=20 mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener<= BR>
________________________________________________________________= _
Frustrated=20 with dial-up? Get high-speed for as low as $26.95. 
https://broadband.msn.com (Prices may = vary by=20 service=20 area.)


_______________________________________________
Arid= _gardener=20 mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener<= BR>

------=_NextPart_000_0029_01C3AA02.8593AC50-- From oooohflowers@cox.net Fri Nov 14 17:40:26 2003 From: oooohflowers@cox.net (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 10:40:26 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200311132008.hADK8Y8o011940@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Hi Debbie; The best way to get rid of those oleanders is to cut them down and grind the stumps. Digging the stumps out with a backhoe could put the sewer lines at risk. Make sure to wear protective equipment (long sleeves, gloves, goggles) when doing the removal because oleanders are toxic and you want to minimize your exposure to the sap. Good luck. Kelly -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of debbie.compitello@bestwestern.com Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2003 1:09 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have a problem with oleanders that were planted 40 years ago on the side of our condo;s. They were planted 4' above our sewer lines and they have damaged our plumbing severly. We would like to know how to kill them and then pull the roots up never to plant anything again. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From oooohflowers@cox.net Fri Nov 14 17:56:18 2003 From: oooohflowers@cox.net (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 10:56:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200311132214.hADMEF8o011344@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Hi Lisa; Fungal diseases in Palo Breas are extremely rare. Did you notice the brown fuzz before or after the tree died? Was the substance on the tree truly fuzzy or was it pebbly or scaly? How old was the tree? Where are you located (Phoenix, Tucson)? How is the tree irrigated? How and when was the tree pruned? If you can answer these questions, we can come closer to finding out what killed your tree. Please let us know. Kelly -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of LisaGPain@msn.com Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2003 3:14 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hi. I have a Palo Brea palo verde that recently died. Over a period of weeks, a brown, fuzzy substance covered the leaves/trunk. Could anyone tell me what type of disease killed my tree? Thank you! _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From fittedshirt@hotmail.com Fri Nov 14 19:55:56 2003 From: fittedshirt@hotmail.com (Thomas Homans) Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 12:55:56 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] black fig & shade bush suggestion Message-ID: 2 quick questions: 1) I planted a black mission fig against the house, facing west, in the shade until NOON, 5 gallon in size. Do you think by May, when it heats up, that this guy will stand a chance of surviving the afternoon sun? I've read that figs love heat, but how much heat? 2) I'd like to plant a bush that matures to 5-10 feet tall, in front of a window facing north. This time of year, it'll be in the shade all day, summer time in the shade for most of the day. What can I plant that would like this much shade, grow to this height, and not be eaten by a bored dog? I have no preference whether it blooms or not, given the lack of light. thanks! tom _________________________________________________________________ MSN Shopping upgraded for the holidays! Snappier product search... http://shopping.msn.com From jaydavis1@earthlink.net Fri Nov 14 23:45:48 2003 From: jaydavis1@earthlink.net (jaydavis1@earthlink.net) Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 16:45:48 -0700 (GMT-07:00) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palo brea died, bbrown fuzzy substance Message-ID: <17443875.1068853550102.JavaMail.root@skeeter.psp.pas.earthlink.net> There's an interesting note at http://www.azcentral.com/home/garden/articles/1108southwestgarden08.html about what sounds like a similar condition (though the tree didn't die!). From colonel@juno.com Mon Nov 17 19:53:27 2003 From: colonel@juno.com (colonel@juno.com) Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 12:53:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311171953.hAHJrR8o021908@Ag.arizona.edu> I want to replace Queen Palms for a suitable type of palm of similar height for the Phoenix Az. area, assuming that to be the Canary Island Palm, or Pineapple Palm which should give needed shade near the pool and require less care and water. How fast do they grow? What care & feeding are required?What is a reasonable price for one 8-10 feet high? How should they be planted? Advantages and disadvantages? Where should I look for a reasonable buy? Also interested to learn how to choose someone to trim and shape the trunk as it grows. From Starlene Stewart" ...isn't in yet. My goal is middle of September, but this year it was so hot I figured none of the cool crops would tolerate the heat. At any rate, I'm having a terrible time getting the bed prepared. First of all, I've used soaker hose for years. That makes the job a lot easier. Prepare the bed, lay the hose, voila! The last place I lived I was there for eight years, and never had a problem with the soaker hose. My garden was much smaller, two beds 6' x 4'. I ran soaker hose across the entire two sections, using the plastic hosing to go between the beds at one point. And we had *hard* water at my old place. It was a constant battle keeping the toilet from crusting up with the hard water deposits. Now we're out here in a rural area, and haul our own water from the community well. My soaker hoses -- installed all brand new last fall, are a miserable failure. I don't know what the problem is, I hope someone can help me figure it out. I can't believe I'll have to invest in and lay new soaker hose *once* a year. I thought the stuff lasted a long time. The reason they are a failure is because they are leaving dry patches. They don't seep along the full length of the hose. In the old garden, I basically wound 100' zigzagged through the gardens in long rows. Out here, with a bigger bed, I had to get more official, with the T connectors and such, let me see if I can text draw an image. [] = where the hose from the faucet connects T = T connectors | = soaker hose {] = end piece {]----T-----T-----T-----T-----T----[] | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | There's about one foot between each T connector, and I use the solid plastic black hose in that area. Then each soaker hose comes out for 20 feet. I'm getting dry spots in random areas, floods in other areas. The soaker hose has turned white with, I guess salts? I've tried flushing the hose, to no avail. So I'm giving up, and trying traditional rows. OMG. What a nightmare!!!! My bed is 20 feet long by 8 feet wide. I am having the hardest time making the rows I don't have a hoe currently, so I'm making due with my pickax and a shovel. The bed is totally lopsided, and when I try to water the rows at the highest spots don't get any water. It is painstaking making the rows. I finally carved out a trough around a 8'x8' area, got it leveled, and then carved out rows by hand. Is there an easier way to make rows level that I've missed? As a child, I'd use rows, but this was a tiny garden, maybe 4'x4' at most, with 2"-3" high rows. In my big garden, the trough is about 10 inches deep, the rows are from 10" to 12" high depending on how level the soil is in that area. First, is there a reason my soaker hose isn't working? Do you think I'll have to just replace it every year (it's so hard getting the old hose out of the T connectors, I can't afford to replace *those* too every year!)? Second, would a rototiller help with making rows? If one would, can you suggest a reasonably priced one? Or should I just rent one for a weekend? I'm already looking to the next gardening season with dread, I always add soil amendments (goat berries, composted hay and chicken manure) and I'm going to have to knock down my hard earned rows then try to recreate them. I'm *not* looking forward to that. I can't stand the idea of not having a garden, especially since I'm out on farm land but I've spent the past few weekends in tears over this difficulty, gardening isn't so much fun lately!! Thanks for any help, I'd really appreciate any input. Thanks in advance, Starlene From escape_249085@yahoo.com Sun Nov 16 14:29:30 2003 From: escape_249085@yahoo.com (escape_249085@yahoo.com) Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 07:29:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311161429.hAGETU8o026816@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a tall cactus (approximately 24 feet)-age is unknown but it has quite a few arms and appears to be healthy. The problem is -in the last year it is leaning (progressively getting worse) toward the west. Since I don't want tolose it, I've been told it can be 'straightened up/propped up'. Is this possible and what are approximate costs? Can this be done without drastically affecting the appearance? I would greatly appreciate any comments/suggestions. Thank You From nsistercin@aol.com Sat Nov 15 20:27:17 2003 From: nsistercin@aol.com (nsistercin@aol.com) Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2003 13:27:17 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311152027.hAFKRH8o024005@Ag.arizona.edu> Why are my lemons brown and dry at the pointed end . Also this happened to my fig tree.Almost all of the fruit was this way. Help? From hamlett1964@yahoo.com Sat Nov 15 17:35:18 2003 From: hamlett1964@yahoo.com (hamlett1964@yahoo.com) Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2003 10:35:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311151735.hAFHZI8o009889@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like to know what the proper time to sow wildflower seeds in the Prescott area. We live at aprox 5000' and our temperatures are on average 5 degrees cooler than reported downtown temps. From arkansassweetpea@hotmail.com Sat Nov 15 16:45:12 2003 From: arkansassweetpea@hotmail.com (arkansassweetpea@hotmail.com) Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2003 09:45:12 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311151645.hAFGjC8o005166@Ag.arizona.edu> how do i protect myself from snakes and ground squirls. i am used to gardening in montana and snakes are not a problem and your ground squirls seem to eat everything except my rosemary plants what can i do? From bnanax6@cheqnet.net Sat Nov 15 21:39:05 2003 From: bnanax6@cheqnet.net (Betty Maple) Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2003 15:39:05 -0600 Subject: [Arid_gardener] drying small gourds Message-ID: <3FB69CF9.DCF3FCE0@cheqnet.net> What is the best way to dry gourds? I get conflicting info re: cutting a hole in the gourd before drying, etc. What do you suggest would be the best method to use? The gourds I have are 3 to 6 inches in diameter. Any info you can send will be greatly appreciated. Paul M. in WI From PhxFrank@cox.net Sat Nov 15 15:31:49 2003 From: PhxFrank@cox.net (PhxFrank@cox.net) Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2003 08:31:49 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311151531.hAFFVn8o000161@Ag.arizona.edu> I have some approx. 10x15x8 flower boxes with a Bell Pepper plant in each. My peppers have started to grow but the plant is no more than 12-14" high. What would be the best way to suppport the peppers so they will not break the branches of the plant Thanks From mjgermaine@cox.net Sat Nov 15 14:45:04 2003 From: mjgermaine@cox.net (mjgermaine@cox.net) Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2003 07:45:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311151445.hAFEj48o026815@Ag.arizona.edu> I want to plant two plum trees near my back chain link fence. My backyard neighbor has planted oleanders that are full grown near ie 6ft away on the opposite side of the fence. Will this bes a problem for my trees? How far away must I plant them from the mature oleander hedge? From hank.hughes@arizonarepublic.com Sat Nov 15 06:41:23 2003 From: hank.hughes@arizonarepublic.com (by way of Lucy Bradley ) Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 23:41:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] plant to complement roses Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20031114234034.01fdf9c0@ag.arizona.edu> Hello, I have a small rose bed with about seven plants. I have room for another plant (but not a rose bush), and was wondering if there is a good plant to complement my roses. e.g. I've heard a garlic plant is good for keeping bugs away. The bed's sun conditions aren't the best -- west side of house, but buffered from mid- to late-afternoon sun by trees. Plants are on a drip system. Plant would need roughly the same amount of water and sun as roses take. Any and all suggestions welcome. Thank you. hank.hughes@arizonarepublic.com Get headline news all day on Arizona's Home Page, http://www.azcentral.com From JeanSciFi@mchsi.com Mon Nov 17 20:43:09 2003 From: JeanSciFi@mchsi.com (Jean Twidwell) Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 13:43:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Test Message-ID: <001501c3ad4b$699e7290$6b01a8c0@youro0kwkw9jwc> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C3AD10.BCD1E4A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I've not been able to get onto the arid gardener board so this is a test = to check out the address I have for the board. Please ignore if it goes thru Thanks ------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C3AD10.BCD1E4A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I've not been able to get onto the arid = gardener=20 board so this is a test to check out the address I have for the=20 board.
 
Please ignore if it goes = thru
 
Thanks
------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C3AD10.BCD1E4A0-- From gardenguy@gardenerscorner.com Mon Nov 17 21:20:47 2003 From: gardenguy@gardenerscorner.com (Garden Guy) Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 16:20:47 -0500 Subject: [Arid_gardener] plant to complement roses Message-ID: One of my favorite plants for spaces like this is rain lilies. They work very well in the conditions you describe, and they bloom almost all year long. They like the same soil as roses too. I like to mix a little sand in with the soil when I plant them for good drainage so the bulbs do not rot, although I've seen some doing very well in just plain ole potting soil and native arizona soil. -- Chat with you later... Alan ----- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ***** LIVE Garden Chat Now Available ***** ----- Alan Zelhart GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- He's so conservative his plane doesn't have a left wing. > > > > > Hello, > > I have a small rose bed with about seven plants. I have room for another > plant (but not a rose bush), and was wondering if there is a good plant to > complement my roses. e.g. I've heard a garlic plant is good for keeping > bugs away. > > The bed's sun conditions aren't the best -- west side of house, but > buffered from mid- to late-afternoon sun by trees. Plants are on a drip > system. Plant would need roughly the same amount of water and sun as roses > take. > > Any and all suggestions welcome. > > Thank you. > hank.hughes@arizonarepublic.com > > > > > Get headline news all day on Arizona's Home Page, http://www.azcentral.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > -- From oooohflowers@cox.net Mon Nov 17 23:38:08 2003 From: oooohflowers@cox.net (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 16:38:08 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200311151735.hAFHZI8o009889@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Hello Hamlet; Here's a link to an article about creating a wildflower meadow written by Jeff Schalau, County Director, Agent, Agriculture & Natural Resources Arizona Cooperative Extension in Yavapai County: http://ag.arizona.edu/yavapai/anr/hort/byg/archive/wildflowermeadow.html Good luck! Kelly -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of hamlett1964@yahoo.com Sent: Saturday, November 15, 2003 10:35 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I would like to know what the proper time to sow wildflower seeds in the Prescott area. We live at aprox 5000' and our temperatures are on average 5 degrees cooler than reported downtown temps. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From drgarnett@msn.com Tue Nov 18 05:41:08 2003 From: drgarnett@msn.com (Donald Garnett) Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 22:41:08 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gimlet trees (Eucalyptus salubris) Message-ID: I have two questions about the Gimlet tree (Eucalyptus salubris): (1) Does anyone have experience with it in Tucson? It looks like it would be a good tree for this area. I've seen that it's native to the gold fields area of southwestern Australia. Fell in love with it after seeing a specimen at Boyce Thompson arboretum. (2) Does anyone know of a nursery that might carry it, other than Civano? A place closer to the west side (we live near Tucson Mall) would be ideal. Thanks Don Garnett Tucson From jamie123@bigfoot.com Tue Nov 18 02:22:44 2003 From: jamie123@bigfoot.com (Jamie the Gardner) Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 19:22:44 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] My fall garden... In-Reply-To: <000701c3ac5a$3e9cbf80$08074bab@stewart> Message-ID: I wonder if your water pressure is lower in your new location, since you say you have to haul your water. That might explain the problem you're having with the soaker hoses. Maybe they are not getting enough water to really fill them up throughout the system so the water is collecting in spots along the length of the hose and then seeping out just there. Maybe a low pressure drip system would work better for you. They're really not that expensive and might last as long or longer than a standard soaker hose. Basically you would have to water longer for the same amount of water. You can get a pressure reducer that lowers the pressure down to the pressure needed for the low pressure lines. You can also buy low pressure soaker hose. It's a thin (I think 1/4 inch diameter) hose with holes in it. Not sure one low pressure line can service 100 feet of 1/4 inch soaker hose, but if it can, you'd have something like this - [] = where the hose from the faucet connects < = Pressure reducer / = Backwash preventer = = 5/8" low pressure line B = Barb P = Plug | = 1/4" soaker hose {] = end piece {]================================== Message-ID: Hello Sister; To help us answer your questions, please give us a little more information. Specifically: How often do you water the trees? How were they irrigated this past summer? What method do you use to water them? How long do you let the water run? When was the last time you fertilized? What did you use? How much? When did you prune the trees? How much did you take off? How well does your soil drain? If you can give us some more info, maybe we can get closer to the cause of the problem. Kelly -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of nsistercin@aol.com Sent: Saturday, November 15, 2003 1:27 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Why are my lemons brown and dry at the pointed end . Also this happened to my fig tree.Almost all of the fruit was this way. Help? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Nov 18 14:12:27 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2003 14:12:27 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gimlet trees (Eucalyptus salubris) Message-ID: I don't have personal experience growing this tree but it does seem to be well-adapted to try here. You might want to try Rillito Nursery, it is closer to your location and I believe they will special-order plants. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Donald Garnett" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gimlet trees (Eucalyptus salubris) >Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 22:41:08 -0700 > > >I have two questions about the Gimlet tree (Eucalyptus salubris): > >(1) Does anyone have experience with it in Tucson? It looks like it would >be >a good tree >for this area. I've seen that it's native to the gold fields area of >southwestern Australia. >Fell in love with it after seeing a specimen at Boyce Thompson arboretum. > >(2) Does anyone know of a nursery that might carry it, other than Civano? A >place >closer to the west side (we live near Tucson Mall) would be ideal. > > Thanks > Don Garnett > Tucson >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN Shopping upgraded for the holidays! Snappier product search... http://shopping.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Nov 18 14:44:25 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2003 14:44:25 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] plum trees near oleander Message-ID: We need more information about the location to help answer the question. Oleanders are poisonous if eaten, but they do not harm plants growing near them and they do not release any toxin that might affect the fruit. The two questions that come to me would be competition for water and competition for sunlight. Additional watering may compensate for oleander roots tapping into water for the plum trees. Sunlight might be more difficult to deal with - do you think the trees would receive at least 6-8 hours of sun or would they be shaded by the hedge? Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: mjgermaine@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2003 07:45:04 -0700 (MST) > >I want to plant two plum trees near my back chain link fence. My backyard >neighbor has planted oleanders that are full grown near ie 6ft away on the >opposite side of the fence. Will this bes a problem for my trees? How far >away must I plant them from the mature oleander hedge? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Is your computer infected with a virus? Find out with a FREE computer virus scan from McAfee. Take the FreeScan now! http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Nov 18 14:23:56 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2003 14:23:56 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] bell peppers in containers Message-ID: Perhaps the flower boxes are not large enough to grow a pepper plant; this might explain why they are not larger. I think a width of 15 inches and depth of 24 inches if possible would be more successful. Usually, the stems are strong enough to support the peppers. I have used small bamboo sticks alongside the stem to help. If this isn't answering your question, please send us more information about how you are caring for the pepper plants (type of soil, watering, light, fertilizing, etc.) Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: PhxFrank@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2003 08:31:49 -0700 (MST) > >I have some approx. 10x15x8 flower boxes with a Bell Pepper plant in each. >My peppers have started to grow but the plant is no more than 12-14" high. >What would be the best way to suppport the peppers so they will not break >the branches of the plant >Thanks > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN Shopping upgraded for the holidays! Snappier product search... http://shopping.msn.com From oooohflowers@cox.net Tue Nov 18 16:36:18 2003 From: oooohflowers@cox.net (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2003 09:36:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] RE: Ground squirrels and Snakes In-Reply-To: <200311151645.hAFGjC8o005166@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C3ADB7.6B0BED30 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hey Sweetpea; Welcome to Arizona! I hope that you won't let a couple of varmints chase you away from gardening. As a lifelong Arizona resident, I've never had problems with snakes in the garden. We do have some snakes in my yard called ground snakes, that are considered beneficial and are quite lovely to look at. The only real snake threat to consider is rattlesnakes. Have you already seen some in your garden? Probably not, or the ground squirrels wouldn't be giving you grief! Seriously, though, if you live in an area where rattlesnakes are working their way into your garden you do need to be careful. Never, ever reach into an area that you haven't inspected first. To keep snakes out of your yard, the Book of Answers, put out by the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum recommends installing a low fence around the area you want to keep snake free. An excerpt from another of the Museum's books, A Natural History of the Sonoran Desert, is available on-line and gives a very nice discussion of rattlesnake biology. Check it out at http://www.desertmuseum.org/books/nhsd_rattlesnakes.html I used to have a terrible rock squirrel problem in my backyard; until I got a basenji. That devil extirpated the entire population, one slimy squirrelly corpse after another. I'd lend him out to you but my kids would kill me. The Master Gardener Training Manual offers a chapter on control of vertebrate pests online at http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/pests/index.html Most sources recommend that you to try to exclude them. The low wall for the snakes won't do much to slow down the squirrels. In fact, I once watched a rock squirrel scale our 6 foot fence with a huge navel orange in its mouth! A fairly high fence that extends a good foot below ground will help. Trapping is another option. Live traps are nice, but where do you turn them loose? Kill traps are certainly effective but be advised that the only ground squirrels that you are allowed to kill are rock squirrels, the others are protected by Arizona law. The University of California at Davis Integrated Pest Management team has a publication that deals specifically with ground squirrel control and can be found on-line at http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7438.html I hope this helps. Good luck! Kelly -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of arkansassweetpea@hotmail.com Sent: Saturday, November 15, 2003 9:45 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page how do i protect myself from snakes and ground squirls. i am used to gardening in montana and snakes are not a problem and your ground squirls seem to eat everything except my rosemary plants what can i do? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C3ADB7.6B0BED30 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hey Sweetpea;

Welcome to Arizona!  I hope = that you=20 won't let a couple of varmints chase you away from gardening.  As a = lifelong Arizona resident, I've never had problems with snakes in the=20 garden.  We do have some snakes in my yard called ground snakes, = that are=20 considered beneficial and are quite lovely to look at.  The only = real snake=20 threat to consider is rattlesnakes.  Have you already seen some in = your=20 garden? Probably not, or the ground squirrels wouldn't be giving you=20 grief! 

Seriously, though, if you live in an area where = rattlesnakes=20 are working their way into your garden you do need to be careful.  = Never,=20 ever reach into an area that you haven't inspected first.  To keep = snakes=20 out of your yard, the Book of Answers, put out by the = Arizona-Sonora=20 Desert Museum recommends installing a low fence around the area you want = to keep=20 snake free.  An excerpt from another of the Museum's books, A = Natural=20 History of the Sonoran Desert, is available on-line and gives a very = nice=20 discussion of rattlesnake biology.  Check it out at http://= www.desertmuseum.org/books/nhsd_rattlesnakes.html

I used to have a terrible rock squirrel problem in = my=20 backyard; until I got a  basenji.  That devil extirpated = the=20 entire population, one slimy squirrelly corpse after another.  I'd = lend him=20 out to you but my kids would kill me.  The Master Gardener Training = Manual=20 offers a chapter on control of vertebrate pests online at http://c= als.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/pests/index.html
Most sources recommend that you to try to exclude = them. =20 The low wall for the snakes won't do much to slow down the = squirrels.  In=20 fact, I once watched a rock squirrel scale our 6 foot fence with a huge = navel=20 orange in its mouth!  A fairly high fence that extends a good foot = below=20 ground will help. Trapping is another option.  Live traps are nice, = but=20 where do you turn them loose? Kill traps are certainly effective but be = advised=20 that the only ground squirrels that you are allowed to kill are = rock=20 squirrels, the others are protected by Arizona law.  The University = of=20 California at Davis Integrated Pest Management team has a publication = that deals=20 specifically with ground squirrel control and can be found on-line at http://www.= ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7438.html
 
I hope this helps.  Good luck!
 
 
Kelly
 
 
 






-----Original Message-----
From:=20 arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu
[mailto:arid_gardener-a= dmin@Ag.arizona.edu]On=20 Behalf Of
arkansassweetpea@hotmail.com
Sent: Saturday, November = 15, 2003=20 9:45 AM
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Question=20 from Home-Hort WWW page


how do i protect myself from snakes = and=20 ground squirls.
i am used to gardening in  montana and snakes = are not a=20 problem and your ground squirls seem to eat everything except my = rosemary plants=20 what can i=20 do?

_______________________________________________
Arid_garden= er=20 mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener<= BR>

 ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C3ADB7.6B0BED30-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Nov 18 17:05:25 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2003 17:05:25 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] drying small gourds Message-ID: this was the response to a similar question: Check this link out: http://www.growinglifestyle.com/s/Drying_Gourds/index.html Everything you could want to know, from the looks of it. >From: Betty Maple >Reply-To: bnanax6@cheqnet.net >To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] drying small gourds >Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2003 15:39:05 -0600 > >What is the best way to dry gourds? I get conflicting info re: cutting >a hole in the gourd before drying, etc. What do you suggest would be >the best method to use? The gourds I have are 3 to 6 inches in >diameter. Any info you can send will be greatly appreciated. > >Paul M. in WI > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Send a QuickGreet with MSN Messenger http://www.msnmessenger-download.com/tracking/cdp_games From s2@auroranow.org Tue Nov 18 18:53:21 2003 From: s2@auroranow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2003 11:53:21 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] datura wrightii References: Message-ID: <3FBA6AA1.2060800@auroranow.org> Hi Gardeners, Mom Nature has generously graced our property with several new datura wrightii since the monsoon (one was covered with enormous blossoms for over 2 months... lovely!). I can't seem to find much more than general info in the book I have at home. Are they perennials? What are my odds of transplanting? (they're beautiful, and poisonous so wild critters leave them alone... my favorite kind of flower!) I'd like to spread a few of the smaller volunteers around the property a bit. My question would be, move them now or wait til spring? Are these annuals or perennials? -- Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. Co-Founder, President Aurora Now Foundation | http://www.auroranow.org 2004 President, ASTD Greater Tucson | http://www.astd-tucson.org ----------------------------------------------- Tucson office: 520.578-2801 | AOL IM: Aurora S2 ----------------------------------------------- "I became convinced that we're here for each other." --R. Buckminster Fuller From pbranum111@cox.net Tue Nov 18 19:33:57 2003 From: pbranum111@cox.net (pbranum111@cox.net) Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2003 12:33:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311181933.hAIJXv8o001371@Ag.arizona.edu> My ivy geraniums are making very small, dry flower buds. The plant in general looks very healthy, but it is not bloomin. Do you know what causes this? Thanks. Pat From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Nov 18 23:47:40 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2003 23:47:40 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] datura wrightii Message-ID: Judy Mielke's book lists it as a perennial -- "the herbaceous plant dies to the ground each winter but grows back in the spring from a thick perennial root. The perennial root is cold hardy." Others may have real-life expereince and can comment on transplanting now vs spring. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Sherryl Stalinski >CC: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] datura wrightii >Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2003 11:53:21 -0700 > >Hi Gardeners, >Mom Nature has generously graced our property with several new datura >wrightii since the monsoon (one was covered with enormous blossoms for over >2 months... lovely!). I can't seem to find much more than general info in >the book I have at home. Are they perennials? What are my odds of >transplanting? (they're beautiful, and poisonous so wild critters leave >them alone... my favorite kind of flower!) I'd like to spread a few of the >smaller volunteers around the property a bit. My question would be, move >them now or wait til spring? Are these annuals or perennials? >-- >Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. >Co-Founder, President >Aurora Now Foundation | http://www.auroranow.org > >2004 President, ASTD Greater Tucson | http://www.astd-tucson.org >----------------------------------------------- >Tucson office: 520.578-2801 | AOL IM: Aurora S2 >----------------------------------------------- >"I became convinced that we're here for each other." > --R. Buckminster Fuller > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Gift-shop online from the comfort of home at MSN Shopping! No crowds, free parking. http://shopping.msn.com From vakuna@cox.net Wed Nov 19 03:57:59 2003 From: vakuna@cox.net (vakuna@cox.net) Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2003 20:57:59 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311190358.hAJ3vx8o029760@Ag.arizona.edu> What should I set my drip irrigation timer on for. I have a three valves system,one for shrubs,trees and flowers. From BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu Wed Nov 19 16:26:49 2003 From: BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 09:26:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] English Gardens Study Tour for University of Georgia Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20031119092502.01f36938@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_6139207==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Greetings, the University of Georgia presents an English Gardens Study Tour Certificate Program June 15-24 2004 For more information see their website http://www.gactr.uga.edu/is/gardentour/ warmest regards, Lucy ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert. "The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona." ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ --=====================_6139207==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Greetings,

the University of Georgia presents an English Gardens Study Tour Certificate Program
June 15-24 2004

For more information see their website

http://www.gactr.uga.edu/is/gardentour/


warmest regards,

Lucy

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ  85040-8807

Phone:  (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax:  (602) 470-8092
email:  BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/
http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens

Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program
To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert.

"The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona."
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


--=====================_6139207==_.ALT-- From oooohflowers@cox.net Wed Nov 19 17:29:49 2003 From: oooohflowers@cox.net (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 10:29:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200311190358.hAJ3vx8o029760@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C3AE88.0FA988E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello Vakuna; There are a couple of really good resources available to help you with determining the right amount of water to put on your plants. The Arizona Municipal Water Users Association (AMWUA). One is called Guidelines for Landscape Drip Irrigation Systems. On page 59 (Appendix K) of that document is a wonderful chart that tells you how often to irrigate your plants using a drip system. It is very important to first find out how much water your system is putting out and how long it takes for water to reach different depths. For instance, your trees should be watered to a depth of 3 feet every time you irrigate. Turn on the valve that irrigates your trees and see how long (we're talking hours) it takes to reach 3 feet. You can use a piece of rebar to do this. Your desert trees (palo verdes, mesquite, ironwoods, etc) should be watered once every month or two in the winter, every two weeks to a month in spring and fall, and no more than once a week in the summer. Non-desert adapted plants should be watered approximately twice as often. I would check out the publication on the web at http://www.amwua.org/dripirrigguide.pdf and scroll down to page 59. You can also get a handy plastic card from your city water conservation office if it is a member of AMWUA. There is another really good publication also put out by AMWUA called Landscape Watering by the Numbers. Personally, I think it is a little easier to understand and it has nice, glossy pictures. It too can be picked up at a variety of locations. If you live in one of these cities, you're in luck! City of Chandler Water Conservation Office (480) 782-3580 City of Goodyear Public Works Department (623) 932-1637 City of Phoenix Water Conservation Office (602) 261-8367 Town of Gilbert Water Resources (480) 503-6098 City of Mesa Water Conservation Office (480) 644-3306 City of Scottsdale Water Conservation Office (480) 312-5650 City of Glendale Water Conservation Office (623) 930-4768 City of Peoria Water Conservation Office (623) 773-7268 City of Tempe Water Utilities Department (480) 350-2668 AMWUA (602) 248-8482 Good luck! Kelly -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of vakuna@cox.net Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2003 8:58 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What should I set my drip irrigation timer on for. I have a three valves system,one for shrubs,trees and flowers. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener ------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C3AE88.0FA988E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hello Vakuna;

There are a couple = of really=20 good resources available to help you with determining the right amount = of water=20 to put on your plants.  The Arizona Municipal Water Users = Association=20 (AMWUA).  One is called Guidelines for Landscape Drip Irrigation = Systems.   On page 59 (Appendix K)  of that=20 document  is a wonderful chart that tells you how often to irrigate = your=20 plants using a drip system.  It is very important to first find out = how=20 much water your system is putting out and how long it takes for water to = reach=20 different depths.

For instance, your trees should be watered to a = depth=20 of 3 feet every time you irrigate.  Turn on the valve that = irrigates your=20 trees and see how long (we're talking hours) it takes to reach 3 = feet.  You=20 can use a piece of rebar to do this.  Your desert trees (palo = verdes,=20 mesquite, ironwoods, etc) should be watered once every month or two in = the=20 winter, every two weeks to a month in spring and fall, and no more than = once a=20 week in the summer. Non-desert adapted plants should be watered = approximately=20 twice as often.

 I would check out the publication on the = web at=20 http://www.amwua.org/dripirrigguide.pdf and scroll down to page 59.  You can also = get a handy=20 plastic card from your city water conservation office if it is a member = of=20 AMWUA.

There is another really good publication also put out by = AMWUA=20 called Landscape Watering by the Numbers.  Personally, I = think it is=20 a little easier to understand and it has nice, glossy pictures.  It = too can=20 be picked up at a variety of locations.  If you live in one of = these=20 cities, you're in luck!

City of Chandler
Water Conservation Office =
(480)=20 782-3580 		City of Goodyear
Public Works Department =
(623)=20 932-1637 		City of Phoenix
Water Conservation Office =
(602)=20 261-8367
Town of Gilbert
Water Resources
(480) = 503-6098=20 		City of Mesa
Water Conservation Office =
(480)=20 644-3306 		City of Scottsdale
Water Conservation Office =
(480)=20 312-5650
City of Glendale
Water Conservation Office =
(623)=20 930-4768 		City of Peoria
Water Conservation Office =
(623)=20 773-7268 		City of Tempe
Water Utilities Department =
(480)=20 350-2668
 =20 AMWUA
(602)=20 248-8482


Good luck!

Kelly

 
 


-----Original Message-----
From:=20 arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu
[mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of vakuna@cox.net
Sent: Tuesday, November 18, = 2003 8:58=20 PM
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Question from=20 Home-Hort WWW page


What should I set my drip irrigation timer = on for.=20 I have a three valves system,one for shrubs,trees and=20 flowers.

_______________________________________________
Arid_g= ardener=20 mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener<= BR>

------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C3AE88.0FA988E0-- From jasmar4@juno.com Wed Nov 19 19:13:19 2003 From: jasmar4@juno.com (James A Smith) Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 12:13:19 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Orange juice Message-ID: <20031119.121319.212.1.jasmar4@juno.com> Hi: I like to juice all my oranges at the end of the season and freeze it to drink during the summer. When it is un frozen to drink the pulp has separated from the juice. What can I add to the juice before freezing to stop it from separating? If you can't help me please pass on the E-mail address of the Home Economics Department. Maybe they could help as they are involved in preserving of foods. Thank You. Jim Smith jasmar4@juno.com From mjgermaine@cox.net Wed Nov 19 19:16:50 2003 From: mjgermaine@cox.net (mjgermaine@cox.net) Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 12:16:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311191916.hAJJGoAd027945@Ag.arizona.edu> I have 30 producing navel orange trees. For the past two years I have been loosing a large quantity of fruit to the large brown-black birds call grackles. They pick a single hole through the peel after which the fruit quickly soils and falls from the tree. Any suggestions? From leapfrog_210@hotmail.com Thu Nov 20 02:47:14 2003 From: leapfrog_210@hotmail.com (stephanie perrin) Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 20:47:14 -0600 Subject: [Arid_gardener] do avocado trees produce every year? i live in louisiana (new orleans) and have an avocado tree 30 yrs old that produced at least 100 delicious avocados last year....but not one this year.... the skin was very thin,you could almost eat the skin..and was Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C3AEDE.50148280 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable very easy to peel...the fruit matured in oct _nov was very nutty and = creamy ..matter of fact the best avocados i have had..what kind? a = LULA??? and HOW FREQUENTLY do they PRODUCE>>>thanks for responding..... = stephanie ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C3AEDE.50148280 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
very easy to peel...the fruit matured = in oct _nov=20 was very nutty and creamy ..matter of fact the best avocados i have = had..what=20 kind? a LULA??? and HOW FREQUENTLY do they PRODUCE>>>thanks for = responding.....   stephanie
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C3AEDE.50148280-- From Todd.Sunday@schwab.com Wed Nov 19 22:11:32 2003 From: Todd.Sunday@schwab.com (Sunday, Todd) Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 15:11:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] HIBISCUS HELP PLEASE Message-ID: <8D3F682B0610D411874A00508B6FA8881F03A41A@n2011pmx.nt.schwab.com> This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C3AEEA.16ADF153 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Hello Rod, You had helped me on the following situation a couple of months ago. Well, we've been doing weekly deep watering and pruned it back about a foot (now it's only about 9 feet tall) and there are some leaves growing (although they are few and far between). The rest of the leaves are brown and shriveled. Can you advise what we might do at this point? Any input would be greatly appreciated! Thanks -----Original Message----- From: Rod [mailto:rodmcq6@highstream.net] Sent: Thursday, September 25, 2003 4:13 PM To: Sunday, Todd Cc: arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] HIBISCUS HELP PLEASE >From what you have told us I don't think that the problem with your hibiscus has been caused by the rose bush fertilizer provided you didn't apply too much fertilizer and you watered before and after the fertrilizer was applied. Nitrogen (the first number) in a fertilizer is the chemical that causes burning if not applied properly or too much is applied. Phosphorus (the second number) of a fertilizer analysis will not cause burning. The symptoms of fertilizer burn will show as leaf burn on the leaf tips and or the leaf margins. Has there been a weed killer or some other chemical applied near the hibiscus ? Another possibility is improper irrigation. If you have applied too much fertilizer or a chemical has been applied near the plant the best thing you can do is to deep water the plant. Check out this site for info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html And this site for hibiscus care: http://www.hiddenvalleyhibiscus.com/ Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: Sunday, Todd < Todd.Sunday@schwab.com> To: 'Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu' < Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu> Date: Thursday, September 25, 2003 2:29 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] HIBISCUS HELP PLEASE Hi, I have a mature hibiscus plant (about 10 feet tall) that appears to be dying. It has plenty of new "leaves" but they are all small, shriveled and soon to fall off. It has already lost (or is in the process of losing) almost all of the older leaves. I fear I may have made the critical mistake of fertilizing it improperly. About a month ago, I thought it needed a boost and all I had for fertilizer was some Rose bush fertilizer. I read somewhere that one should use a fertilizer on plants such as this with a low middle number. I forget what the other 2 numbers are but I do know the middle # on the fertilizer I used is 12. Can you provide any advice on how I might save this hibiscus? Thanks ------_=_NextPart_001_01C3AEEA.16ADF153 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hello=20 Rod,
 
You=20 had helped me on the following situation a couple of months = ago.  =20 Well,  we've been doing weekly deep watering and pruned it back = about a=20 foot (now it's only about 9 feet tall) and there are some leaves = growing=20 (although they are few and far between).   The rest of the = leaves are=20 brown and shriveled.   Can you advise what we might do at = this=20 point?      Any input would be greatly=20 appreciated!   Thanks
-----Original Message-----
From: Rod=20 [mailto:rodmcq6@highstream.net]
Sent: Thursday, September = 25, 2003=20 4:13 PM
To: Sunday, Todd
Cc:=20 arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu
Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] = HIBISCUS=20 HELP PLEASE

From what you have told us I don't think that the = problem=20 with your hibiscus has been caused by the rose bush fertilizer = provided you=20 didn't apply too much fertilizer and you watered before and after the = fertrilizer was applied. Nitrogen (the first number) in a = fertilizer is=20 the chemical that causes burning if not applied properly or too much = is=20 applied. Phosphorus (the second number) of a fertilizer analysis will = not=20 cause burning. The symptoms of fertilizer burn will show as leaf burn = on the=20 leaf tips and or the leaf margins.
Has there been a weed killer or some other=20 chemical applied near the hibiscus ?
Another possibility is improper = irrigation.
If you have applied too much fertilizer or a = chemical has=20 been applied near the plant the best thing you can do is to deep = water the=20 plant.
Check out this site for info on = irrigation:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html
And this site for hibiscus care:
http://www.hiddenvalleyhib= iscus.com/
 
Good luck.
 
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
-----Original=20 Message-----
From: Sunday, Todd <Todd.Sunday@schwab.com>
To:=20 'Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu' = <Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Date:=20 Thursday, September 25, 2003 2:29 PM
Subject: = [Arid_gardener]=20 HIBISCUS HELP PLEASE

Hi,=20
 
I = have a mature=20 hibiscus plant (about 10 feet tall) that appears to be = dying.   It=20 has plenty of new "leaves" but they are all small,  shriveled = and soon=20 to fall off.  It has already lost (or is in the process = of losing)=20 almost all of the older leaves.   =
 
I fear I may have made the critical = mistake of=20 fertilizing it improperly.   About a month ago,  I = thought it=20 needed a boost and all I had for fertilizer was some Rose bush=20 fertilizer.   I read somewhere that one should use a = fertilizer on=20 plants such as this with a low middle number.   I forget = what the=20 other 2 numbers are but I do know the middle # on the fertilizer I = used is=20 12.
 
Can you provide=20 any advice on how I might save this hibiscus?  =20
 
Thanks
------_=_NextPart_001_01C3AEEA.16ADF153-- From giacomel@Ag.arizona.edu Wed Nov 19 22:52:28 2003 From: giacomel@Ag.arizona.edu (Gene Giacomelli) Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 15:52:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] invitation to Tucson open greenhouse Tuesday, November 25, noon Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20031119155210.05571a38@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_25623815==_ Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="=====================_25623815==_.ALT" --=====================_25623815==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed >> Tours offered <> Food available <> Get Tomatoes for T-Day<< >>RSVP Required<< The faculty and students within the Controlled Environment Agriculture Program at the University of Arizona, cordially invite you to the Fourth Annual Open-Greenhouse Celebration to be held Tuesday, November 2 5 , 2 003, noon to 3:00 PM *** RSVP by noon Friday, November 21st for lunch *** to Kathleen Crist at ABE (520) 621-3691 kcrist@ag.arizona.edu No reservations required for taking a tour. Where: C.A.C. 1971 E. Roger Rd/Campbell Ave Hydroponic Greenhouse, East on Roger Road off Campbell Ave, 2nd driveway left off Roger Rd. Park only in designated areas (follow directions of orange-vested helpers) Lunch at the CEA Building Why: There are 750 fruit-bearing tomato plants, and pepper and cucumber plants waiting for your visit! Explore the new state-of-the-art greenhouse! Meet the students in the Plant Science Greenhouse Class AND the Greenhouse Engineering Class! Meet the graduate students and learn about their research projects! Take home some fresh veggies! Get a Free Lunch. You must RSVP by noon Friday , November 21st to reserve a lunch!!!!!! ****************************************************************** Dr. Gene A. Giacomelli Professor and Director CEAC The University of Arizona Department of Agricultural & Biosystems Engineering Shantz Bldg. Rm 504 PO Box 210038 Tucson, AZ 85721-0038 520 621 1412 voice; 520 621 3963 FAX http://ag.arizona.edu/ceac --=====================_25623815==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" >> Tours offered <> Food available <> Get Tomatoes for T-Day<< >>RSVP Required<<

The faculty and students within the Controlled Environment Agriculture Program at the University of Arizona,
cordially invite you to the Fourth Annual Open-Greenhouse Celebration to be held Tuesday, November 2 5 , 2 003, noon to 3:00 PM

         *** RSVP by noon Friday, November 21st for lunch ***
       to Kathleen Crist at ABE (520) 621-3691 kcrist@ag.arizona.edu
                  No reservations required for taking a tour.
 
 Where: C.A.C. 1971 E. Roger Rd/Campbell Ave Hydroponic Greenhouse,
        East on Roger Road off Campbell Ave, 2nd driveway left off Roger Rd.
        Park only in designated areas  (follow directions of orange-vested helpers)
        Lunch at the CEA Building

Why: There are 750 fruit-bearing tomato plants, and pepper and cucumber plants waiting for your visit!
        Explore the new state-of-the-art greenhouse!
        Meet the students in the Plant Science Greenhouse Class AND the Greenhouse Engineering Class!
        Meet the graduate students and learn about their research projects!
        Take home some fresh veggies! Get a Free Lunch.
  You must RSVP by noon Friday , November 21st to reserve a lunch!!!!!!

******************************************************************

Dr. Gene A. Giacomelli
Professor and Director CEAC
The University of Arizona
Department of Agricultural & Biosystems Engineering
Shantz Bldg. Rm 504 PO Box 210038
Tucson, AZ 85721-0038
520 621 1412 voice; 520 621 3963 FAX
http://ag.arizona.edu/ceac



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AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA --=====================_25623815==_-- From kumeda@Ag.arizona.edu Wed Nov 19 22:51:56 2003 From: kumeda@Ag.arizona.edu (Kai Umeda) Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 15:51:56 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: Information Please Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20031119155110.05458188@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_25623805==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Please Reply To: "Susan Wiliams" Plz help with these q's from the garden thx kai >From: "Susan Wiliams" >To: >Subject: Information Please >Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 17:25:31 -0700 > > >Hi! >I am new to gardening in AZ. I have had green and red peppers growing al >summer and they still are today. They are not very big in size but adding >food and fertilizer to the soil mix has helped. How long can I expect >them to keep producing with he cooler weather? Can I freeze them and for >how long? > >I also have green Roma and cherry tomatoes. I also have pole beans >started from seeds at the same time and no beans in sight yes but my green >chili peppers are starting to produce ... All have Been planted about a >month from small plants. How long can I expect them to keep producing >with he cooler weather? Can I freeze them and for how long? > >Other questions that maybe you know and can refer me to for >information. My philodendrons are doing great in the yard now--how long >or how cold before I need to bring them indoors? > >Roses are still producing some.... when is the best time to cut back? I >gave fertilizer and food a couple of weeks ago? > >Any tips on herbs outside now---I have oregano and basil ? > >Thanking you in advance for the help! > >Susan --=====================_25623805==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

Please Reply To:  "Susan Wiliams" <drsue007@cox.net>


Plz help with these q's from the garden
thx
kai


From: "Susan Wiliams" <drsue007@cox.net>
To: <kumeda@Ag.arizona.edu>
Subject: Information Please
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 17:25:31 -0700


Hi!
I am new to gardening in AZ.  I have had green and red peppers growing al summer and they still are today.  They are not very big in size but adding food and fertilizer to the soil mix has helped.  How long can I expect them to keep producing with he cooler weather?  Can I freeze them and for how long?
 
I also have green Roma and cherry tomatoes.  I also have pole beans started from seeds at the same time and no beans in sight yes but my green chili peppers are starting to produce ... All have Been planted about a month from small plants.  How long can I expect them to keep producing with he cooler weather?  Can I freeze them and for how long?
 
Other questions that maybe you know and can refer me to for information.  My philodendrons are doing great in the yard now--how long or how cold before I need to bring them indoors?
 
Roses are still producing some.... when is the best time to cut back?  I gave fertilizer and food a couple of weeks ago?
 
Any tips on herbs outside now---I have oregano and basil ?
 
Thanking you in advance for the help!
 
Susan


--=====================_25623805==_.ALT-- From oooohflowers@cox.net Wed Nov 19 23:54:19 2003 From: oooohflowers@cox.net (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 16:54:19 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200311191916.hAJJGoAd027945@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: MJ; Take comfort in knowing that you are not alone in your problems with birds drilling holes in your citrus. In fact, they suffer the exact same problem at the Citrus Agricultural Center. There appears to be no easy answer. Scarecrows are cute, but I've heard they don't work so well. Exclusion is your best hope. Try using bird netting. The grackles might get to the fruit around the edges of the trees, but the interior fruit should be protected. You might also consider offering the birds an alternate water source, like a large birdbath. That might reduce some of the birds drive to drink all of your orange juice! Good luck. Kelly -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of mjgermaine@cox.net Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2003 12:17 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have 30 producing navel orange trees. For the past two years I have been loosing a large quantity of fruit to the large brown-black birds call grackles. They pick a single hole through the peel after which the fruit quickly soils and falls from the tree. Any suggestions? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From oooohflowers@cox.net Wed Nov 19 23:46:49 2003 From: oooohflowers@cox.net (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 16:46:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Orange juice In-Reply-To: <20031119.121319.212.1.jasmar4@juno.com> Message-ID: Hi Jim; I would call the Food Safety Master Consumer Advisors at 602-470-8086 Ext. 341 or send an e-mail to mconner@cals.arizona.edu. They know all about preserving O.J. Good luck. Kelly -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of James A Smith Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2003 12:13 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Orange juice Hi: I like to juice all my oranges at the end of the season and freeze it to drink during the summer. When it is un frozen to drink the pulp has separated from the juice. What can I add to the juice before freezing to stop it from separating? If you can't help me please pass on the E-mail address of the Home Economics Department. Maybe they could help as they are involved in preserving of foods. Thank You. Jim Smith jasmar4@juno.com _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From tara_conklin@msn.com Thu Nov 20 06:39:41 2003 From: tara_conklin@msn.com (tara_conklin@msn.com) Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 23:39:41 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311200639.hAK6dfAd006425@Ag.arizona.edu> Why are my leaves on the pecan trees smaller than my neighbors. I added fertilizer and watered enough i thought. I ahve several orchards and they are all different ages and locations. From jbegeman@Ag.arizona.edu Thu Nov 20 18:58:38 2003 From: jbegeman@Ag.arizona.edu (John Begeman) Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 11:58:38 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] French Gardens Tour Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20031120115802.00a15710@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_12521516==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable 3rd Annual French Gardens, Wine and Cuisine Tour: Paris to Provence June 24 - July 3, 2004 Join University of Arizona horticulturist and Arizona Star garden columnist= =20 John Begeman for 10 fabulous days in France this spring. You'll visit some= =20 of the most beautiful gardens in the world, in Paris and then in=20 Provence. From the classicism of the Chateau of Versailles, to the lovely= =20 Mediterranean gardens of Provence, this small group tour offers something=20 for every garden lover. Also included is a Proven=E7al cooking class and=20 wine tastings in Chateauneuf_du_Pape and other famous=20 appellations. Airline transportation is available from Tucson; those=20 departing from other cities will meet us at our Paris hotel. For more=20 information and a detailed trip itinerary visit our tour web site at:=20 www.paris-france-tours.com or phone John Begeman at: 520-219-8084 John P. Begeman, M.S. Urban Horticulture Agent Pima County Cooperative Extension Phone: (520) 626-5161 Fax: (520) 626-5849 jbegeman@ag.arizona.edu --=====================_12521516==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
3rd Annual French Gardens, Wine and Cuisine Tour:
Paris to Provence
June 24 - July 3, 2004


Join University of Arizona horticulturist and Arizona Star garden columnist= John Begeman for 10 fabulous days in France this spring.  You'll visit= some of the most beautiful gardens in the world, in Paris and then in= Provence.  From the classicism of the Chateau of Versailles, to the= lovely Mediterranean gardens of Provence, this small group tour offers= something for every garden lover.  Also included is a Proven=E7al= cooking class and wine tastings in Chateauneuf_du_Pape and other famous= appellations.  Airline transportation is available from Tucson; those= departing from other cities will meet us at our Paris hotel.  For more= information and a detailed trip itinerary visit our tour web site at:= www.paris-france-tours.com or phone John Begeman at:= 520-219-8084


John P. Begeman, M.S.
Urban Horticulture Agent
Pima County Cooperative Extension
Phone: (520) 626-5161
Fax: (520) 626-5849
jbegeman@ag.arizona.edu --=====================_12521516==_.ALT-- From yklenner@bg.dvusd.org Thu Nov 20 17:59:12 2003 From: yklenner@bg.dvusd.org (yklenner@bg.dvusd.org) Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 10:59:12 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311201759.hAKHxCAd003511@Ag.arizona.edu> I am a teacher at Barry Goldwather high school. My special ed students have a grant to build a garden. My colleage and I were hoping someone from the Master Gardener program could come out to help us plan and develope the garden to make it wheelchair friendly and have safe sensory items in it. You can contact me through my e-mail address or call me at 623-445-3160. Thank you very much. From shane110@aol.com Fri Nov 21 17:13:25 2003 From: shane110@aol.com (shane110@aol.com) Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2003 10:13:25 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311211713.hALHDPAd015477@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like to plant a crop of perrinneal rye, My wife purchased some seed but it only says to plant accordingly. How much do I put down? From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net Fri Nov 21 17:39:38 2003 From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2003 10:39:38 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plant Cold Hardiness References: <5.1.0.14.2.20031119155110.05458188@ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <002101c3b056$7da02870$5e69480c@olin> Pepper, tomato, bean, and basil plants and most houseplants are all frost tender. Some winters we get a few hard freezes that will kill those plants. Occasionally we get no freeze at all. But usually we get a few light freezes at some time between mid November and mid March. You can leave the plants outdoors but cover the plants (use frost blankets or old sheets) to protect them from frost. You can use the weather forecasts as a guide - they tend to be pessimistic in their freeze forecasts. As the weather cools, tomatoes may form blossoms but are not likely to set any fruit until warmer weather about March 1. You can regulate the temperature by covering the plants with clear plastic film - the plastic should not touch the foliage. Tomatoes and peppers that are now green may ripen slowly in our cooler weather and short days. But they should be okay and will start to ripen faster again about mid February. Beans like warm soil and warm weather and are usually planted in March for the 1st crop and in July for the 2nd crop. It is best to plant bush beans. Pole beans are productive over a long period in optimum temperatures but are not very productive in the low desert and are not considered to be productive. Success with vegetables can be improved by planting at the recommended time for the specific crop. For a vegetable planting calendar, see the Master Gardener Manual for your region at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/vegetable/regions13.html#1-3 Olin Miller ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kai Umeda (by way of Lucy Bradley )" > Plz help with these q's from the garden > thx > kai > > > >From: "Susan Wiliams" > >To: > >Subject: Information Please > >Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 17:25:31 -0700 > > > > > >Hi! > >I am new to gardening in AZ. I have had green and red peppers growing al > >summer and they still are today. They are not very big in size but adding > >food and fertilizer to the soil mix has helped. How long can I expect > >them to keep producing with he cooler weather? Can I freeze them and for > >how long? > > > >I also have green Roma and cherry tomatoes. I also have pole beans > >started from seeds at the same time and no beans in sight yes but my green > >chili peppers are starting to produce ... All have Been planted about a > >month from small plants. How long can I expect them to keep producing > >with he cooler weather? Can I freeze them and for how long? > > > >Other questions that maybe you know and can refer me to for > >information. My philodendrons are doing great in the yard now--how long > >or how cold before I need to bring them indoors? > > > >Roses are still producing some.... when is the best time to cut back? I > >gave fertilizer and food a couple of weeks ago? > > > >Any tips on herbs outside now---I have oregano and basil ? > > > >Thanking you in advance for the help! > > > >Susan > > > From Evljohn@aol.com Fri Nov 21 19:10:02 2003 From: Evljohn@aol.com (Evljohn@aol.com) Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2003 12:10:02 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311211910.hALJA2Ad011081@Ag.arizona.edu> Three questions: 1. In the Phoenix area, is now a good time to tansplant appx. 5 yr old citrus trees and Arizona Ash trees? 2. How close can citrus trees be planted to a below grade pool...meaning worries about roots? Also, what trees are root friendly around pools? 3. What type of mesquite tree has small to no thorns and how wind resistent are they? Thank you very much for your assistance! From oooohflowers@cox.net Fri Nov 21 19:45:50 2003 From: oooohflowers@cox.net (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2003 12:45:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] do avocado trees produce every year? i live in louisiana (new orleans) and have an avocado tree 30 yrs old that produced at least 100 delicious avocados last year....but not one this year.... the skin was very thin,you could almost ea In-Reply-To: Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01C3B02D.6490BD50 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello Stephanie; We sure wish that we could grow nutty, creamy avocadoes out here in the arid southwest! Unfortunately, we can't and really don't have much experience with them. I would consider contacting your local cooperative extension. I don't know if the Orleans Parish office has a Master Gardener program, but you can contact them at Address: 6400 St. Claude Avenue, Building 104-C New Orleans , LA 70146 Phone: (504)278-7495 Fax: (504)278-7496 The University of California has a whole area devoted to avocadoes and maintains a site to help identify the varieties grown there. Their website can be located at http://www.ucavo.ucr.edu/AvocadoWebSite%20folder/AvocadoWebSite/AvocadoVarie ties/VarietyFrame.html The University of Florida Cooperative Extension also does some work with those fatty green fruits. Their site isn't as pretty as the Cali site but may discuss varieties that you are probably likely to see in Louisiana http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/MG213 Good luck! Kelly -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of stephanie perrin Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2003 7:47 PM To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Cc: leapfrog_210@hotmail.com; linda perrin stapenhorst Subject: [Arid_gardener] do avocado trees produce every year? i live in louisiana (new orleans) and have an avocado tree 30 yrs old that produced at least 100 delicious avocados last year....but not one this year.... the skin was very thin,you could almost eat th very easy to peel...the fruit matured in oct _nov was very nutty and creamy ..matter of fact the best avocados i have had..what kind? a LULA??? and HOW FREQUENTLY do they PRODUCE>>>thanks for responding..... stephanie ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01C3B02D.6490BD50 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hello=20 Stephanie;
 
We = sure wish that we=20 could grow nutty, creamy avocadoes out here in the arid southwest!  = Unfortunately, we can't and really don't have much experience with = them.  I=20 would consider contacting your local cooperative extension.  I = don't know=20 if the Orleans Parish office has a Master Gardener program, but you can = contact=20 them at Address:=20
6400 St. Claude Avenue, Building 104-C
New Orleans , LA 70146=20

Phone:
(504)278-7495
Fax: (504)278-7496=20
 
The University of California has a = whole=20 area devoted to avocadoes and maintains a site to help identify the = varieties=20 grown there.  Their website can be located at http://www.ucavo.ucr.edu/AvocadoWebSite%20folder/AvocadoW= ebSite/AvocadoVarieties/VarietyFrame.html
 
The University of Florida = Cooperative=20 Extension also does some work with those fatty green fruits.  Their = site=20 isn't as pretty as the Cali site but may discuss varieties that you are = probably=20 likely to see in Louisiana http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/MG213
 
Good luck!
 
 
Kelly
 
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From:=20 arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu=20 [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of = stephanie=20 perrin
Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2003 7:47 = PM
To:=20 Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Cc: leapfrog_210@hotmail.com; = linda=20 perrin stapenhorst
Subject: [Arid_gardener] do avocado trees = produce=20 every year? i live in louisiana (new orleans) and have an avocado tree = 30 yrs=20 old that produced at least 100 delicious avocados last year....but not = one=20 this year.... the skin was very thin,you could almost eat=20 th

very easy to peel...the fruit matured = in oct _nov=20 was very nutty and creamy ..matter of fact the best avocados i have = had..what=20 kind? a LULA??? and HOW FREQUENTLY do they PRODUCE>>>thanks = for=20 responding.....   = stephanie
------=_NextPart_000_0006_01C3B02D.6490BD50-- From rodmcq6@highstream.net Sat Nov 22 00:04:31 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2003 17:04:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Perennial Rye, Amount of seed to apply References: <200311211713.hALHDPAd015477@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <002e01c3b08c$35c32f80$0ca9db43@ibmbna6040> The recommendation is to plant 8 to 10 pounds of perennial rye grass seed per 1000 square feet when overseeding bermuda grass. It may be too late in the season to plant rye grass seed because of the cooler temperatures. The recommended time to overseed is from October 15 to November 15. Germination can be expected to decline once the soil temperatures at a 4 inch depth goes below 63F. Ideal temperatures to plant rye are when the night time temps are in the 60s and day time temps are in the 80s. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, November 21, 2003 10:13 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I would like to plant a crop of perrinneal rye, My wife purchased some seed but it only says to plant accordingly. How much do I put down? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From oooohflowers@cox.net Sat Nov 22 01:44:56 2003 From: oooohflowers@cox.net (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2003 18:44:56 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] RE: Pecans In-Reply-To: <200311200639.hAK6dfAd006425@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Hi Tara; Zinc deficiency could cause small leaves and species vary in leaf size. If you applied zinc this year and are sure the leaves aren't supposed to look that way, you might contact the Arizona Pecan Growers Association. Here's a link to their website: http://www.arizonapecangrowers.com/ Good luck. Kelly -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of tara_conklin@msn.com Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2003 11:40 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Why are my leaves on the pecan trees smaller than my neighbors. I added fertilizer and watered enough i thought. I ahve several orchards and they are all different ages and locations. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From gardenguru" Message-ID: <02c801c3b119$e0c03ee0$a0c095ce@ibm22761658747> Citrus and Ash Trees should be planted in Oct or March. The root system of trees will spread as wide at the canopy of the tree. If you citrus is a drawf, it is spread to about 8 ft, Semi - drawf = 12 ft, and Standard = 15 ft. Plant your trees enough distance from you pool to accomodate the spread of the canopy. Depending on the variety of your ash tree, the canopy can vary but most can get large. Mesquite trees develop a wide and shallow root system in order for it to capture any available rain that comes its way. Watering it deeply and keeping the canopy open will help when the monsoons show up. Double staking it will also help against strong winds. Hope this helps Gardenguru ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, November 21, 2003 12:10 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Three questions: > 1. In the Phoenix area, is now a good time to tansplant appx. 5 yr old citrus trees and Arizona Ash trees? > > 2. How close can citrus trees be planted to a below grade pool...meaning worries about roots? Also, what trees are root friendly around pools? > > 3. What type of mesquite tree has small to no thorns and how wind resistent are they? > Thank you very much for your assistance! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > From gpl@cox.net Sun Nov 23 22:47:44 2003 From: gpl@cox.net (gpl@cox.net) Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 15:47:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311232247.hANMliAd018203@Ag.arizona.edu> Hello: We have quite a few cacti that originally were placed on an irrigation system by the landscaper (to our surprise). These cactic are now 1 1/2 years old, grew very quickly, and all flowered this year. Question: Should we continue to keep the cacti on the irrigation system? If so, should we reduce the amount of water (change the bubbler end). This path of the irrigation system is also for other plants (lantana, little johns). We are now concerned that the cacti may receive too much water since they have matured. Thank you. From Skong@primenet.com Mon Nov 24 14:24:13 2003 From: Skong@primenet.com (Skong@primenet.com) Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 07:24:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311241424.hAOEODJ8004730@Ag.arizona.edu> I live in a condo association in Sun City and we want to go to low water landscaping. We have juniper bushes on common property. They are listed as drought resistant. Do we need to get rid of these? Are they incompatible with low water landscaping? We also have three small orange trees and we enjoy their fruit. Do we need to get rid of these to be compatible with low water usage? Thank you. From gardenguru" Message-ID: <039f01c3b1e4$c4aae5e0$a0c095ce@ibm22761658747> Shane , Coverage of Rye grass for overseeding is 15 lb per 1000 sq ft. You should also use a starter fertilizer and a seed cover mulch to help keep the bird from eating all your seeds. . Water new seeds 3 to 4 times per day for 5 to 10 min until it germinates then cut back on watering until you water 30 min / 45 min every 3 days. Try not to use manure since it contains weed seeds. You are a little late since rye seed does not like temperature below 60 degrees at night. It is best to sow them in Oct when temps are more suitable for germination. If you have laid sod within the past 3 months, it is recommended that winter rye not be use the first year. Good Luck Greg Poole- master gardener ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, November 21, 2003 10:13 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I would like to plant a crop of perrinneal rye, My wife purchased some seed but it only says to plant accordingly. How much do I put down? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From escape_249085@yahoo.com Sun Nov 23 13:44:08 2003 From: escape_249085@yahoo.com (escape_249085@yahoo.com) Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 06:44:08 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311231344.hANDi8Ad009164@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a tall cactus (approximately 24 feet)-age is unknown but it has quite a few arms and appears to be healthy. The problem is -in the last year it is leaning (progressively getting worse) toward the west. Since I don't want to lose it, I've been told it can be 'straightened up/propped up'. Is this possible and what are approximate costs? Can this be done without drastically affecting the appearance? I would greatly appreciate any comments/suggestions. Thank You From gardenguru" Message-ID: <03af01c3b1e5$10081c60$a0c095ce@ibm22761658747> Citrus and Ash Trees should be planted in Oct or March. The root system of trees will spread as wide at the canopy of the tree. If you citrus is a drawf, it is spread to about 8 ft, Semi - drawf = 12 ft, and Standard = 15 ft. Plant your trees enough distance from you pool to accomodate the spread of the canopy. Depending on the variety of your ash tree, the canopy can vary but most can get large. Mesquite trees develop a wide and shallow root system in order for it to capture any available rain that comes its way. Watering it deeply and keeping the canopy open will help when the monsoons show up. Double staking it will also help against strong winds. Hope this helps Greg Poole - Master Gardener ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, November 21, 2003 12:10 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Three questions: > 1. In the Phoenix area, is now a good time to tansplant appx. 5 yr old citrus trees and Arizona Ash trees? > > 2. How close can citrus trees be planted to a below grade pool...meaning worries about roots? Also, what trees are root friendly around pools? > > 3. What type of mesquite tree has small to no thorns and how wind resistent are they? > Thank you very much for your assistance! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > From mm5@ev.state.az.us Mon Nov 24 20:19:59 2003 From: mm5@ev.state.az.us (mm5@ev.state.az.us) Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 13:19:59 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311242020.hAOKJxY4016386@Ag.arizona.edu> I have an Asian Pear Tree. It is about five or six years old and bears fruit, which is small and hard. I don't know what to fertilize it with. I thought maybe there had to be a male and female, but it does get fruit on it. Can you please let me know what to fertilize the Asian Pear with and how to care for it in our desert climate, with a granite back yard, (we live at the base of the mountains in Ahwatukee. Thank You, Mary From jwbgood@AOL.com Tue Nov 25 01:52:56 2003 From: jwbgood@AOL.com (jwbgood@AOL.com) Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 18:52:56 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311250152.hAP1quY4013658@Ag.arizona.edu> I have an acacia tree in my yard which was probably planted approximately 15 yr. ago. In August the leaves started to turn brown. Today, 2/3 of the branches have brown leaves remaining on the tree and the other 1/3 is green. Can you give me some advice? I appreciate your assistance From jilldumbauld@yahoo.com Mon Nov 24 05:10:39 2003 From: jilldumbauld@yahoo.com (jilldumbauld@yahoo.com) Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 22:10:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311240510.hAO5AdAd021139@Ag.arizona.edu> We have grown popcorn, and they look ready to dry. We tried to dry a few ears out, and didn't have much luck. Is there a good method for drying out popcorn? We got the seeds from Native Seed Search, and their website has information about making pinole from the corn, but not too much about drying it out for popcorn. Thank you! From kathyscudder@aol.com Mon Nov 24 00:59:46 2003 From: kathyscudder@aol.com (kathyscudder@aol.com) Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2003 17:59:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311240059.hAO0xkAd028116@Ag.arizona.edu> Any idea why Yellow Bells (Tecoma stans angustata)would start growing very tiny leaves? There a lot of very tiny leaves clustered very close together. Thanks! From BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu Mon Nov 24 23:06:16 2003 From: BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 16:06:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Position Announcement - DBG Director of Education Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20031124160517.04c20aa8@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_32129890==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed The Desert Botanical Garden seeks an experienced professional to manage & expand its formal and informal education & volunteer programs. The successful candidate will serve as a key member of the Garden's senior mgmt team and lead the visioning & strategic planning process for the education dept. The Director of Education will supervise a dept containing 13 staff members & 500 adult volunteers, as well as participate fully in the design & interpretation of Garden exhibits, special events & conferences. An advanced degree, strong curriculum dev. skills, teaching ability, project mgmt exp, budgeting/ planning skills & leadership acumen are req'd. A background in botany or desert ecology, fluency in Spanish, & successful grant-writing exp are preferred. Salary is competitive & commensurate with exp. Send resume with 3 letters of reference to: Mary Catellier, HR Director, Desert Botanical Garden, 1201 N Galvin Pkwy, Phx Az 85008. EOE. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert. "The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona." ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ --=====================_32129890==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
The Desert Botanical Garden seeks an experienced professional to manage & expand its formal and informal education & volunteer programs. The successful candidate will serve as a key member of the Garden's senior mgmt team and lead the visioning & strategic planning process for the education dept. The Director of Education will supervise a dept containing 13 staff members & 500 adult volunteers, as well as participate fully in the design & interpretation of Garden exhibits, special events & conferences. An advanced degree, strong curriculum dev. skills, teaching ability, project mgmt exp, budgeting/ planning skills & leadership acumen are req'd. A background in botany or desert ecology, fluency in Spanish, & successful grant-writing exp are preferred. Salary is competitive & commensurate with exp. Send resume with 3 letters of reference to: Mary Catellier, HR Director, Desert Botanical Garden, 1201 N Galvin Pkwy, Phx Az 85008. EOE.=20

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ  85040-8807

Phone:  (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax:  (602) 470-8092
email:  BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/
http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens

Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program
To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert.

"The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona."
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


--=====================_32129890==_.ALT-- From BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu Mon Nov 24 23:45:57 2003 From: BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 16:45:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Save the Date! Citrus Festivals Scheduled for Jan 2004 Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20031124164420.04c024d0@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_32129930==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Two Valley Citrus Festivals Scheduled Get ready for the 2004 citrus planting season by getting answers to all your questions regarding growing healthy citrus in the Valley of the Sun. Learn to care for your citrus and deciduous fruit trees at two Valley Citrus Clinics sponsored by the University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension. The foremost experts in the state will provide a once-a-year opportunity for homeowners to learn and ask questions about the care of Citrus, Apples, Peaches and other fruit crops. The East Valley Citrus Clinic will be held on Saturday, January 24, 2004 at the Greenfield Citrus Nursery in Mesa. The Northwest Valley Citrus Clinic will be held on Saturday, January 31, 2004 in Waddell at the U of A Citrus Agricultural Center. Gates open at 8:30 a.m. at each event with the clinic running from 9:00 a.m. to Noon. Eight half hour presentations will be given concurrently and repeated four times during the morning. Tickets are available for $5.00 by advance purchase, or $8.00 at the gate and may be purchased from the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension located at 4341 East Broadway Road in Phoenix. All presentations will be given outdoors so dress accordingly. There will be a one hour open questions and answer period to consult with the professionals from Noon to 1:00 p.m. Topics at each clinic will include Tasting the Newest and Traditional Varieties, Fertilizing Citrus Trees, Irrigating Citrus Trees, Citrus Pest Management, Diseases of Citrus, Budding Citrus Trees, Planting Citrus Trees, Pruning of Citrus and Deciduous Fruit and Low-Chill Deciduous Fruit Varieties. Greenfield Citrus Nursery is located at 2588 East Lehi Road in Mesa. Their phone number is 480-830-8000. East on 202 to Gilbert Rd, Exit North 300 feet to McDowell Rd, East on McDowell to 1st road (Lehi Road), North to 1st orchard on the left. Young trees and fresh citrus will be offered for sale at Greenfield Citrus Nursery. The UA Citrus Agricultural Center is located North of I-10. Take the Cotton Lane off ramp and go north about ten miles to Greenway Road. Take Greenway Road west for about two miles and follow the signs to the University of Arizona Citrus Agricultural Center. Coming from the Sun City area take Bell Road west to Cotton Lane which is about four miles past Grand Avenue. Go south on Cotton Lane for one mile to Greenway Road. Workshops will be at stations outside. Please dress for the weather, wear walking shoes, and bring a chair if you would like to sit. Persons with a disability may request reasonable accommodations, such as a sign language interpreter by contacting 602-470-8086 and press 323. Requests should be made as early as possible to allow time to arrange the accommodation. For additional information, please call or write: Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 East Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040, 602-470-1556 and press 1013 for Northwest Valley information or press 1012 for East Valley information or find them on the web: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert. "The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona." ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ --=====================_32129930==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Two Valley Citrus Festivals Scheduled


        Get ready for the 2004 citrus planting season by getting answers to all your questions regarding growing healthy citrus in the Valley of the Sun.  Learn to care for your citrus and deciduous fruit trees at two Valley Citrus Clinics sponsored by the University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension.  The foremost experts in the state will provide a once-a-year opportunity for homeowners to learn and ask questions about the care of Citrus, Apples, Peaches and other fruit crops.

        The East Valley Citrus Clinic will be held on Saturday, January 24, 2004 at the Greenfield Citrus Nursery in Mesa.  The Northwest Valley Citrus Clinic will be held on Saturday, January 31, 2004 in Waddell at the U of A Citrus Agricultural Center.  Gates open at 8:30 a.m. at each event with the clinic running from 9:00 a.m. to Noon.

        Eight half hour presentations will be given concurrently and repeated four times during the morning.  Tickets are available for $5.00 by advance purchase, or $8.00 at the gate and may be purchased from the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension located at 4341 East Broadway Road in Phoenix.  All presentations will be given outdoors so dress accordingly.  There will be a one hour open questions and answer period to consult with the professionals from Noon to 1:00 p.m.

        Topics at each clinic will include Tasting the Newest and Traditional Varieties, Fertilizing Citrus  Trees, Irrigating Citrus Trees, Citrus Pest Management, Diseases of Citrus, Budding Citrus Trees, Planting Citrus Trees, Pruning of Citrus and Deciduous Fruit and Low-Chill Deciduous Fruit Varieties.

        Greenfield Citrus Nursery is located at 2588 East Lehi Road in Mesa.  Their phone number is 480-830-8000.  East on 202 to Gilbert Rd, Exit North 300 feet to McDowell Rd, East on McDowell to 1st road (Lehi Road), North to 1st orchard on the left. Young trees  and fresh citrus will be offered for sale at Greenfield Citrus Nursery.

        The UA Citrus Agricultural Center is located North of I-10.  Take the Cotton Lane off ramp and go north about ten miles to Greenway Road.  Take Greenway Road west for about two miles and follow the signs to the University of Arizona Citrus Agricultural Center.  Coming from the Sun City area take Bell Road west to Cotton Lane which is about four miles past Grand Avenue.  Go south on Cotton Lane for one mile to Greenway Road.

       Workshops will be at stations outside.  Please dress for the weather, wear walking shoes, and bring a chair if you would like to sit.

        Persons with a disability may request reasonable accommodations, such as a sign language interpreter by contacting 602-470-8086 and press 323.  Requests should be made as early as possible to allow time to arrange the accommodation.

        For additional information, please call or write: Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 East Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040, 602-470-1556 and press 1013 for Northwest Valley information or press 1012 for East Valley information or find them on the web: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ  85040-8807

Phone:  (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax:  (602) 470-8092
email:  BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/
http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens

Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program
To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert.

"The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona."
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


--=====================_32129930==_.ALT-- From lisajgehl@yahoo.com Tue Nov 25 19:25:15 2003 From: lisajgehl@yahoo.com (Lisa Gehl) Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 11:25:15 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lantana/Edibles Message-ID: <20031125192515.28016.qmail@web14311.mail.yahoo.com> --0-864902028-1069788315=:27373 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii We live in central Phoenix. On the south side of our house we have some lantana that grows directly underneath a chain link fence. Well it was getting out of hand so we chopped it down yet left it to grow again. I wanted to plant some more plants around that spot for some variety and perhaps utilize the fence. I think I have heard that lantana is toxic or at the very least irritating from the sap. So would it be a bad idea to put edible peas on the fence that are planted very near the lantana roots? While I'm asking, the same question goes for anything else that is toxic and then planting something edible near it. Thanks :) Lisa --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now --0-864902028-1069788315=:27373 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

We live in central Phoenix.
 
On the south side of our house we have some lantana that grows directly underneath a chain link fence. Well it was getting out of hand so we chopped it down yet left it to grow again. I wanted to plant some more plants around that spot for some variety and perhaps utilize the fence. I think I have heard that lantana is toxic or at the very least irritating from the sap. So would it be a bad idea to put edible peas on the fence that are planted very near the lantana roots? While I'm asking, the same question goes for anything else that is toxic and then planting something edible near it.
 
Thanks :)
 
Lisa

Do you Yahoo!?
Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now --0-864902028-1069788315=:27373-- From Christopher" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0275_01C3B350.04F00420 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable What are the typical germinating times at this time of year for = grasses.We planted a winter lawn about 1 week ago, and are not yet seeing signs of sprouts yet. We have planted mixed winter grasses, and dicondra. Thanks, Christopher=20 =20 ------=_NextPart_000_0275_01C3B350.04F00420 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable 
What are the typical germinating times at this time of =
year for grasses.
We planted a winter lawn about 1 =
week ago, and
are not yet seeing signs of sprouts yet.  We have
planted mixed winter grasses, and dicondra.

Thanks,

Christopher=20
------=_NextPart_000_0275_01C3B350.04F00420-- From watsontl@mindspring.com Tue Nov 25 20:22:57 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (watsontl@mindspring.com) Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 13:22:57 -0700 (GMT-07:00) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lantana/Edibles Message-ID: <18515005.1069791779335.JavaMail.root@wamui07.slb.atl.earthlink.net>
Nothing toxic will travel from the plant producing it to a plant grown nearby.   The only way you would be at risk would be if you planted something edible that looked a lot like the toxic plant.   You might harvest something nasty by mistake.   In this case, that's unlikely, since peas and lantana don't look alike.   So go ahead and mix things up.
 
 
Tom

-----Original Message-----
From: Lisa Gehl
Sent: Nov 25, 2003 12:25 PM
To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lantana/Edibles

We live in central Phoenix.
 
On the south side of our house we have some lantana that grows directly underneath a chain link fence. Well it was getting out of hand so we chopped it down yet left it to grow again. I wanted to plant some more plants around that spot for some variety and perhaps utilize the fence. I think I have heard that lantana is toxic or at the very least irritating from the sap. So would it be a bad idea to put edible peas on the fence that are planted very near the lantana roots? While I'm asking, the same question goes for anything else that is toxic and then planting something edible near it.
 
Thanks :)
 
Lisa

From watsontl@mindspring.com Tue Nov 25 20:24:33 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (watsontl@mindspring.com) Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 13:24:33 -0700 (GMT-07:00) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <29778561.1069791873705.JavaMail.root@wamui07.slb.atl.earthlink.net> NS/S has always been very responsive when I've hit them with a question. You might try sending them an email. TW -----Original Message----- From: jilldumbauld@yahoo.com Sent: Nov 23, 2003 10:10 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have grown popcorn, and they look ready to dry. We tried to dry a few ears out, and didn't have much luck. Is there a good method for drying out popcorn? We got the seeds from Native Seed Search, and their website has information about making pinole from the corn, but not too much about drying it out for popcorn. Thank you! _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From alove3@cox.net Wed Nov 26 00:34:13 2003 From: alove3@cox.net (alove3@cox.net) Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 17:34:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311260034.hAQ0YDY4018938@Ag.arizona.edu> We have a multitruncked ficus that is healthy but very pot bound. It is approx. 30 inches tall. Can we continue to keep this in the pot? If so, how often should it be fed and watered? From yintun@4talking.com Wed Nov 26 02:55:31 2003 From: yintun@4talking.com (yintun@4talking.com) Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 19:55:31 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311260255.hAQ2tVY4003560@Ag.arizona.edu> Please explain to me photosynthesis in leaf. From jamie123@bigfoot.com Wed Nov 26 14:04:07 2003 From: jamie123@bigfoot.com (Jamie the Gardner) Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2003 07:04:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200311241424.hAOEODJ8004730@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Depends on what you mean by low water usage. The ultimate low water usage would be to pull everything up and plant native plants that rely on rainfall and do not require any watering at all, once established. At the other extreme would be a lawn that requires frequently watering via a sprinkler system. My personal opinion is that the plants you describe can be part of a low water landscape. The junipers should be on a drip system. This delivers water right to the roots and is a very efficient use of water. The orange trees should have watering wells placed around their trunks. You do this by mounding up the dirt out at the drip line to form a small berm that will hold the water in. You might want a smaller berm in a ring around the trunk to keep the water from touching the trunk. Then you install a bubbler system on a timer to flood the well as needed. The orange trees will definitely require more water than desert-adapted plants but by using this system you can minimize wastage. On my property, I have 4 citrus trees, a few cactus and ocotillos, many shrubs, and no lawn. Compared to what I have had in the past, I consider this a low-water usage landscape. -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Skong@primenet.com Sent: Monday, November 24, 2003 7:24 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live in a condo association in Sun City and we want to go to low water landscaping. We have juniper bushes on common property. They are listed as drought resistant. Do we need to get rid of these? Are they incompatible with low water landscaping? We also have three small orange trees and we enjoy their fruit. Do we need to get rid of these to be compatible with low water usage? Thank you. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From oooohflowers@cox.net Wed Nov 26 16:20:54 2003 From: oooohflowers@cox.net (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2003 09:20:54 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] RE: Photosynthesis In-Reply-To: <200311260255.hAQ2tVY4003560@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Hello Yintun; Nice timing with your question because it reminds me that this Thanksgiving, I'm especially thankful for photosynthesis. Golly, without it, we wouldn't have anything to eat or any oxygen to breathe. Photosynthesis is a huge topic and there are many excellent sites out there specifically meant to teach people about it. My favorite site is provided by Estrella Mountain Community College. I think it won some awards. If you like pictures and colorful graphics, you'll love it: http://www.emc.maricopa.edu/faculty/farabee/BIOBK/BioBookPS.html Here's a fairly technical treatment offered by the Photosynthesis Center at Arizona State University (who, hopefully, will thoroughly and ruthlessly defeat UA on Friday): http://photoscience.la.asu.edu/photosyn/education/photointro.html Good luck! Kelly -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of yintun@4talking.com Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2003 7:56 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Please explain to me photosynthesis in leaf. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From oooohflowers@cox.net Wed Nov 26 16:42:39 2003 From: oooohflowers@cox.net (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2003 09:42:39 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200311240059.hAO0xkAd028116@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Hi Kathy; When did you first notice the smaller leaves? There are a number of reasons that a plant will have, what appears to be, stunted growth. My experience with yellow bells is that they make big, lush leaves when they get lots of water and produce smaller leaves when they get less water. This was a very hot, dry summer and this may be the plant's way of complaining about it. It got pretty cold by my house the other night and some of my plants have started to show funny color changes as a result. Don't be too surprised if your yellow bells does something else goofy because it doesn't like the cold. The leaves might turn brown or fall off all together! I'll bet this spring it puts on some nice, big leaves. Any other ideas out there? Kelly -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of kathyscudder@aol.com Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2003 6:00 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Any idea why Yellow Bells (Tecoma stans angustata)would start growing very tiny leaves? There a lot of very tiny leaves clustered very close together. Thanks! _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From oooohflowers@cox.net Wed Nov 26 17:40:18 2003 From: oooohflowers@cox.net (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2003 10:40:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] RE: Leaning Cactus Message-ID: Hi Escape; Is this leaning cactus a saguaro? If you're not sure, look at the pic on this page: http://www.azstarnet.com/~ggreene/saguaro.html If it is, according to the Desert Botanical Garden's website, your saguaro could be suffering from bacterial necrosis. Visit their site for all of the details http://www.dbg.org/Gardening/infosht.html#SAGUARO%20CARE but here's a quote that you should read right away: "Another sign that rot is present is when the plant begins to lean. Leaning can be caused by the erosion of soil around the plant's roots, but it is more likely that rot is destroying the inner structure of the cactus. A leaning cactus will eventually fall so immediate action is required to remove the plant to prevent serious injury or property damage when it collapses. If nothing is threatened by the fall of the cactus, allowing it to remain where it falls makes an interesting feature in the home landscape. Saguaros are heavy--large, old plants can weigh up to 2 tons--take great care around a leaning saguaro, and don't stand near it, or push it." That's probably not what you wanted to hear. Good luck. Kelly -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of escape_249085@yahoo.com Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2003 6:44 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a tall cactus (approximately 24 feet)-age is unknown but it has quite a few arms and appears to be healthy. The problem is -in the last year it is leaning (progressively getting worse) toward the west. Since I don't want to lose it, I've been told it can be 'straightened up/propped up'. Is this possible and what are approximate costs? Can this be done without drastically affecting the appearance? I would greatly appreciate any comments/suggestions. Thank You _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From watsontl@mindspring.com Wed Nov 26 20:07:35 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (watsontl@mindspring.com) Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2003 13:07:35 -0700 (GMT-07:00) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <3391136.1069877255703.JavaMail.root@wamui05.slb.atl.earthlink.net> Water is certainly the most likely explanation. However, a shortage of nutrients such as sulfur and magnesium might also lead to smaller than normal leaves. Intense sunlight can also have such an effect; plants tend to make larger leaves in the shade. I once had a plumbago that would spend part of the year in full sun, and part in pretty dense shade. The leaves that grew in one season were noticably different in size from those in the other. Tom -----Original Message----- From: Ooooh Flowers! Sent: Nov 26, 2003 9:42 AM To: kathyscudder@aol.com, arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hi Kathy; When did you first notice the smaller leaves? There are a number of reasons that a plant will have, what appears to be, stunted growth. My experience with yellow bells is that they make big, lush leaves when they get lots of water and produce smaller leaves when they get less water. This was a very hot, dry summer and this may be the plant's way of complaining about it. It got pretty cold by my house the other night and some of my plants have started to show funny color changes as a result. Don't be too surprised if your yellow bells does something else goofy because it doesn't like the cold. The leaves might turn brown or fall off all together! I'll bet this spring it puts on some nice, big leaves. Any other ideas out there? Kelly -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of kathyscudder@aol.com Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2003 6:00 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Any idea why Yellow Bells (Tecoma stans angustata)would start growing very tiny leaves? There a lot of very tiny leaves clustered very close together. Thanks! _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From rodmcq6@highstream.net Tue Nov 25 22:54:49 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 15:54:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Germination Time for Winter Grass References: <027801c3b393$1334d5e0$6700a8c0@ph.cox.net> Message-ID: <000201c3b494$ad2ef0c0$10a9db43@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_002E_01C3B36C.74C1BE80 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Christopher, Germination time for rye grass planted for a winter lawn will vary = depending on the temperature. During the target time for planting winter = grass ( October 15 to November 15) the seed will usually sprout in 6 to = 8 days. When the soil temperature at 4 inch depth falls below 63F the = percentage of seed that germinates declines and the germination time = increases. With this recent cold spell the soil temps are too low to make it = worthwhile to plant winter grass. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Christopher=20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2003 1:31 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] What are the germination times for winter = lawns? What are the typical germinating times at this time of year for = grasses.We planted a winter lawn about 1 week ago, and are not yet seeing signs of sprouts yet. We have planted mixed winter grasses, and dicondra. Thanks, Christopher=20 =20 ------=_NextPart_000_002E_01C3B36C.74C1BE80 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Christopher,
Germination time for rye grass planted for a winter = lawn will=20 vary depending on the temperature. During the target time for planting = winter=20 grass ( October 15 to November 15) the seed will usually sprout in = 6 to 8=20 days. When the soil temperature at 4 inch depth falls below 63F the = percentage=20 of seed that germinates declines and the germination time=20 increases.
With this recent cold spell the soil temps are too = low to make=20 it worthwhile to plant winter grass.
 
Good luck.
 
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Christopher
Sent: Tuesday, November 25, = 2003 1:31=20 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] What = are the=20 germination times for winter lawns?

What are the typical germinating times at this time =
of year for grasses.
We planted a winter lawn about 1 =
week ago, and
are not yet seeing signs of sprouts yet.  We have
planted mixed winter grasses, and dicondra.

Thanks,

Christopher=20
------=_NextPart_000_002E_01C3B36C.74C1BE80-- From rodmcq6@highstream.net Tue Nov 25 23:09:25 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 16:09:25 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Watering junipers and orange trees References: <200311241424.hAOEODJ8004730@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000301c3b494$aef299c0$10a9db43@ibmbna6040> Many junipers are drought resistant however here in the low desert they must be watered periodically. The orange trees are a different story, they are considered a high water use tree and will not survive on the same irrigation line as desert adapted trees and shrubs unless all are watered to satisfy the oranges. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, November 24, 2003 7:24 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I live in a condo association in Sun City and we want to go to low water landscaping. We have juniper bushes on common property. They are listed as drought resistant. Do we need to get rid of these? Are they incompatible with low water landscaping? We also have three small orange trees and we enjoy their fruit. Do we need to get rid of these to be compatible with low water usage? > > Thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From larryburbine@cableaz.com Fri Nov 28 16:35:47 2003 From: larryburbine@cableaz.com (larryburbine@cableaz.com) Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2003 09:35:47 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311281635.hASGZlY4002892@Ag.arizona.edu> We are building a swinmming pool and part of the process was to keep the "shotcrete" wet while it cured. The clean up crew pumped 300 to 400 gallons of the water from the pool into the tree wells of some mature citrus trees as well as the ground around them. This left a white layer of what I believe is lime all over. My question is : What is the best way to remove this and treat the soil so it will not harm the trees? Thank you Larry Burbine From dorisphds1@cs.com Fri Nov 28 22:28:00 2003 From: dorisphds1@cs.com (dorisphds1@cs.com) Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2003 15:28:00 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311282228.hASMS0Y4001785@Ag.arizona.edu> my gourd vines recieved frost bite. i have many large and some small gourds. do i continue to leave them on the vine unit the vine dies before i harvest them? i would appreciate any information about when to harvest my many gourds. thank you, doris smith From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Nov 29 13:44:13 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2003 13:44:13 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] gourds Message-ID: Here are some earlier responses to similar questions: Your gourds will keep growing, generally, until the first frost or freeze. At that time the vine will die. I leave my gourds on the vine until the stem above it dries and turns brown. At that point the gourds are harvested and placed in an area with good air circulation. I actually placed small screw hooks in the eaves of the house and hung them all around the patio to dry (looked kinda nifty). Depending on where you live, it may take six or more months to dry the gourds thoroughly inside and out. Your gourds more than likely will get dark colored patches on them that look like mold. That's okay, it happens. You can pretty much tell when the gourd is dried all the way through as the seeds will become loose and rattle around when shaken. A light sanding with fine sandpaper will remove the dark spots. At that point you may apply a sealer or paint or decorate them to your hearts content. They also make great bird houses. Hope this helps. ---------------------- Web page for local gourd clubs: http://cals.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/azgourdsoc.htm ---------------------- Check this link out: http://www.growinglifestyle.com/s/Drying_Gourds/index.html Everything you could want to know, from the looks of it. >From: dorisphds1@cs.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2003 15:28:00 -0700 (MST) > >my gourd vines recieved frost bite. i have many large and some small >gourds. do i continue to leave them on the vine unit the vine dies before i >harvest them? i would appreciate any information about when to harvest my >many gourds. thank you, doris smith > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Is there a gadget-lover on your gift list? MSN Shopping has lined up some good bets! http://shopping.msn.com From karen_willard@yahoo.com Sat Nov 29 15:37:00 2003 From: karen_willard@yahoo.com (karen_willard@yahoo.com) Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2003 08:37:00 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311291537.hATFb0Y4015684@Ag.arizona.edu> We planted a Mesquite tree in our West facing front yard 3 years ago. We watered it well and it grew very fast but it started to lean towards the street after the 1st year. It has 2 stakes on the north and south sides of the tree. I was told at the time of purchase to stop watering the tree after awhile so the tap root would grow deeper into the ground and hold the tree up. They also said the tap root would come back up if it was watered again. I would like to know if any of that information was true or not. Does the Mesquite Tree send down a tap root and can it come back up later? Thank you, Karen Willard From awonder962@earthlink.net Sat Nov 29 19:13:15 2003 From: awonder962@earthlink.net (awonder962@earthlink.net) Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2003 12:13:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311291913.hATJDFY4000813@Ag.arizona.edu> When is the best time to prune a mesquite tree? From joycezarley@aol.com Sat Nov 29 18:29:54 2003 From: joycezarley@aol.com (joycezarley@aol.com) Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2003 11:29:54 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311291829.hATITsY4027483@Ag.arizona.edu> We planted two fiscus nitida trees last spring, during the summer the leaves turned brown and fell off. one tree is still green half way down but the other one still doesn't have leaves on it and seems to be dead. thank you From rodmcq6@highstream.net Sat Nov 29 23:24:06 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2003 16:24:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite, Time to Prune References: <200311291913.hATJDFY4000813@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <001901c3b6cf$e3c61180$ae31db43@ibmbna6040> The recommended time to prune desert adapted trees is in summer, in fact the mesquites grow so rapidly that it is usually necessary to prune several times during the summer to remove the crossing branches and to reduce the wind load. Do not remove more than 20% at one time. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, November 29, 2003 12:13 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > When is the best time to prune a mesquite tree? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rodmcq6@highstream.net Sat Nov 29 23:12:03 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2003 16:12:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ficus nitida dying References: <200311291829.hATITsY4027483@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <001301c3b6ce$348426e0$ae31db43@ibmbna6040> I suspect that your Ficus nitida was not watered properly, last summer was one of the hottest and dryest on record. The tree that has green leaves should come back ok provided that you correct your watering practice. I would wait until spring to see if the other one shows any green leaves. An excellent booklet titled LANDSCAPE WATERING BY THE NUMBERS is available free from most nurseries and the Water Conservation Dept. of your city. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, November 29, 2003 11:29 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > We planted two fiscus nitida trees last spring, during the summer the leaves turned brown and fell off. one tree is still green half way down but the other one still doesn't have leaves on it and seems to be dead. thank you > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rodmcq6@highstream.net Sat Nov 29 23:43:40 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2003 16:43:40 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite tree, Tap root References: <200311291537.hATFb0Y4015684@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <001f01c3b6d2$9f38e800$ae31db43@ibmbna6040> Karen, Yes the mesquite tree does have a tap root. I have never heard that the tap root would come back toward the surface if irrigation were started again after there had been no water applied for awile. The mesquite tree can exist on very little water, however it will look much better if it receives periodic deep watering. Many mesquites are over watered or watered improperly when they are young which causes the crown to out grow the root system. This plus the lack of pruning to thin the crown and to remove crossing branches makes the tree into a big sail which is prone to blow over from wind gusts. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, November 29, 2003 8:37 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > We planted a Mesquite tree in our West facing front yard 3 years ago. We watered it well and it grew very fast but it started to lean towards the street after the 1st year. It has 2 stakes on the north and south sides of the tree. I was told at the time of purchase to stop watering the tree after awhile so the tap root would grow deeper into the ground and hold the tree up. They also said the tap root would come back up if it was watered again. I would like to know if any of that information was true or not. Does the Mesquite Tree send down a tap root and can it come back up later? > Thank you, Karen Willard > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Nov 30 00:01:07 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 00:01:07 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] mesquite taproot Message-ID: This is an excellent question. I have heard it discussed at length buty did some research to try and find answers. This information is from the US Forest Service (http://www.fs.fed.us/database/feis/plants/tree/progla/botanical_and_ecological_characteristics.html): Honey mesquite's root system is well adapted to dry climates (during and shortly after seedling establishment, the rate of root growth exceeds that of shoot growth [163]). Honey mesquite is a facultative phreatophyte which extracts moisture from a large volume of soil through a well-developed root system [8,81,171]. Honey mesquite's taproot commonly reaches depths of 40 feet (12 m) when subsurface water is available [63], though a taproot 190 feet (58 m) deep has been observed [163]. In areas where the soil is shallow, where water does not penetrate deeply, or where a distinct calcium carbonate layer is present, the taproot seldom extends more than 3 to 6 feet (1-2 m), and an extensive system of lateral roots often extends up to 60 feet (18 m) away from the plant base [9,43,64,81,163]. Lateral roots of a 19.7 foot (6 m) tall honey mesquite tree excavated on the Rolling Plains of north-central Texas were concentrated in the upper 1 foot (0.3 m) of the soil profile [81]. Similarly, Sosebee and Dahl [162] reported that most active lateral roots are in the upper 2.5 feet (0.75 m) of soil. Sprouting from lateral roots is common [81]. These adaptations allow honey mesquite to retain most leaves in all but the most severe droughts. ---- Based on this information, I would think that the presence or absence of a taproot isn't important. Trees grown in containers have probably had the taproot severed. Unless you live in a riverbed with persistent subsurface water, the taproot is probably not going to be much deeper than 3-4 feet even if it is intact. We recommend that you water the tree regularly for at least the first year. Use a probe to make sure water is penetrating to a depth of 3 feet each time you water and that you water the entire root area to at least the dripline of the tree and preferably even further out. This water regime will promote growth of strong lateral roots far beyond the dripline of the tree and these lateral roots serve as anchors to hold the tree firmly in the ground. Some species of mesquite naturally lean and that may be what you see. Or the lateral roots may not be strongly developed to anchor the tree. Staking is a temporary action; stakes should not b left for more than about one year. Deep, widespread periodic watering may prevent further leaning if the cause is underdeveloped lateral roots. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: karen_willard@yahoo.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2003 08:37:00 -0700 (MST) > >We planted a Mesquite tree in our West facing front yard 3 years ago. We >watered it well and it grew very fast but it started to lean towards the >street after the 1st year. It has 2 stakes on the north and south sides of >the tree. I was told at the time of purchase to stop watering the tree >after awhile so the tap root would grow deeper into the ground and hold the >tree up. They also said the tap root would come back up if it was watered >again. I would like to know if any of that information was true or not. >Does the Mesquite Tree send down a tap root and can it come back up later? >Thank you, Karen Willard > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Has one of the new viruses infected your computer? Find out with a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee. Take the FreeScan now! http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 From sammarshall1@cox.net Sun Nov 30 13:50:36 2003 From: sammarshall1@cox.net (sammarshall1@cox.net) Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 06:50:36 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311301350.hAUDoaY4007066@Ag.arizona.edu> Is epson salts a good ammendment in a Phoenix rose garden. If so, how much? Thank you Sam Marshall From gardenguru" Message-ID: <002f01c3b753$30f161c0$5dfbcbd8@ibm22761658747> Mesquites do develop a tap root system but they primarily have a wide spreading shallow root system that enables them to take advantage of any available water that falls. Deep watering past the drip line of the tree will help develop a good anchor system when the monsoons winds show up. Keeping the canopy thinned out will also enable the tree to withstand strong winds as well. Staking your young tree should only be done for 1 year. They can become dependant upon stakes and failed to develop the root needed for a good anchor system Hope this helps Greg - Master Gardener ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, November 29, 2003 8:37 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > We planted a Mesquite tree in our West facing front yard 3 years ago. We watered it well and it grew very fast but it started to lean towards the street after the 1st year. It has 2 stakes on the north and south sides of the tree. I was told at the time of purchase to stop watering the tree after awhile so the tap root would grow deeper into the ground and hold the tree up. They also said the tap root would come back up if it was watered again. I would like to know if any of that information was true or not. Does the Mesquite Tree send down a tap root and can it come back up later? > Thank you, Karen Willard > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From hokey50@earthlink.net Sun Nov 30 02:55:18 2003 From: hokey50@earthlink.net (hokey50@earthlink.net) Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2003 19:55:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200311300255.hAU2tIY4007222@Ag.arizona.edu> I planted a hibiscus in June and it was in bloom. After those blooms were gone it never bloomed again. It is growing like crazy but no blooms. Is there a time of year when they bloom or is there something wrong? From thesollidays@cox.net Sun Nov 30 19:41:18 2003 From: thesollidays@cox.net (Susan Solliday) Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 12:41:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] 2004 Real Gardens for Real People December Meeting Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0056_01C3B73F.3FF02030 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_001_0057_01C3B73F.3FF02030" ------=_NextPart_001_0057_01C3B73F.3FF02030 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Hi Master Gardeners, Your invited to our Monday, December 1, tour meeting in Palo Verde Room at the extension office. The meeting starts at 9:30 a.m. Come to get involved or just to see what’s going on! Susan and Leslie 2004 Real Gardens for Real People Tour Chairs ------=_NextPart_001_0057_01C3B73F.3FF02030 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hi Master = Gardeners,

 

Your invited to = our Monday, December 1, tour meeting in Palo Verde Room at the extension = office.=A0 The meeting starts at 9:30 = a.m.=A0 Come to get involved or just to = see what=92s going on!=A0 =

 

Susan and = Leslie

2004 Real Gardens for Real People Tour Chairs

 

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More basal shoots mean more canes, mean more roses. Please see my web page on what I do to care for my roses all year long. Epsom salt doses (how much to use) are listed there. Also, I generally apply my epsom salts in January after pruning. http://www.gardenerscorner.com/ArizonaRoseCare.html -- -- Chat with you later... Alan ----- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ***** LIVE Garden Chat Now Available ***** ----- Alan Zelhart GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- The cost of feathers has risen Now even DOWN is up! sammarshall1@cox.net wrote: >Is epson salts a good ammendment in a Phoenix rose garden. If so, how much? >Thank you >Sam Marshall > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > -- -- Chat with you later... Alan ----- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ***** LIVE Garden Chat Now Available ***** ----- Alan Zelhart GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- The cost of feathers has risen Now even DOWN is up! From rodmcq6@highstream.net Fri Nov 21 21:45:10 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2003 14:45:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Irrigation, Seasonally Message-ID: <000201c3b08a$0a5abcc0$cc2c0a3f@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C3B03E.1030CB40 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable tburke, The irrigation interval will depend on whether they are desert adapted. SUMMER IRRIGATION Desert adapted trees 7 to 21 days = =20 Non desert adapted trees and shrubs 7 to 10 days WINTER IRRIGATION Desert trees 30 = to 60 days Non desert adapted trees 14 to 30 days Desert adapted shrubs 30 to 45 = days Non desert adapted shrubs 10 to 14 days An excellent booklet titled LANDSCAPE WATERING BY THE NUMBERS is = available free from most nurseries and your city's Water Conservation = Dept. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C3B03E.1030CB40 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
tburke,
The irrigation interval will depend on whether they = are desert=20 adapted.
SUMMER IRRIGATION
Desert adapted=20 trees           &n= bsp;           &nb= sp;           &nbs= p;    7=20 to 21 days          =20
Non desert adapted trees and=20 shrubs           &= nbsp;  7=20 to 10 days
 
WINTER IRRIGATION
Desert=20 trees           &n= bsp;           &nb= sp;           &nbs= p;            = ;       =20 30 to 60 days
Non desert adapted=20 trees           &n= bsp;           &nb= sp;         =20 14 to 30 days
Desert adapted=20 shrubs           &= nbsp;           &n= bsp;           &nb= sp;  =20 30 to 45 days
Non desert adapted=20 shrubs           &= nbsp;           &n= bsp;       =20 10 to 14 days
 
An excellent booklet titled LANDSCAPE WATERING BY = THE NUMBERS=20 is available free from most nurseries and your city's Water Conservation = Dept.
 
Good luck.
 
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
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