From ShySky7144@aol.com Wed Oct 1 01:34:57 2003 From: ShySky7144@aol.com (ShySky7144@aol.com) Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 21:34:57 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] A terrible problem Message-ID: <50.22c680b4.2cab8941@aol.com> --part1_50.22c680b4.2cab8941_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Rod, while searching the Internet for a solution to my awful problem, I foun= d=20 a message from you to another person about the use of Prometon.=A0 Long stor= y=20 short, that product (Spectracide Total Vegetation Killer) got sprayed on my=20 compete lawn; what a nightmare.=A0 I have been given two possible remedies.= =A0 One is=20 to remove six to seven inches of soil and dispose of it properly; then bring= =20 in new soil and plant grass seed or sod.=A0 This is a very expensive endeavo= r,=20 for sure.=A0 It is especially problematic or perhaps close to impossible in=20= my=20 back yard, as the houses are very close together which affords little access= to=20 my back yard.=A0 The other suggested remedy is to till flowable charcoal int= o=20 the soil, water it immediately, wait a few days and then till again, then wa= it=20 three to four weeks, bring in new soil, till again, and then plant grass see= d=20 or soil.=A0 Certainly, the latter remedy would be easier and cheaper than th= e=20 first.=A0 Do you think either would work?=A0 I cannot imagine living with lo= oking at=20 nothing growing in my back and front yards for a year or more.=A0 I would=20 appreciate any help that you can give me, including any other resources you=20= might=20 suggest. Thank you very much.=A0 If possible, please respond to me directly without=20 publishing this email, or publish it without my email address. Leslie --part1_50.22c680b4.2cab8941_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Rod, while se= arching the Internet for a solution to my awful problem, I found a message f= rom you to another person about the use of Prometon.=A0 Long story short, th= at product (Spectracide Total Vegetation Killer) got sprayed on my compete l= awn; what a nightmare.=A0 I have been given two possible remedies.=A0 One is= to remove six to seven inches of soil and dispose of it properly; then brin= g in new soil and plant grass seed or sod.=A0 This is a very expensive endea= vor, for sure.=A0 It is especially problematic or perhaps close to impossibl= e in my back yard, as the houses are very close together which affords littl= e access to my back yard.=A0 The other suggested remedy is to till flowable=20= charcoal into the soil, water it immediately, wait a few days and then till=20= again, then wait three to four weeks, bring in new soil, till again, and the= n plant grass seed or soil.=A0 Certainly, the latter remedy would be easier=20= and cheaper than the first.=A0 Do you think either would work?=A0 I cannot i= magine living with looking at nothing growing in my back and front yards for= a year or more.=A0 I would appreciate any help that you can give me, includ= ing any other resources you might suggest.

Thank you very much.=A0 If possible, please respond to me directly without p= ublishing this email, or publish it without my email address.

Leslie

--part1_50.22c680b4.2cab8941_boundary-- From jloj@earthlink.net Wed Oct 1 01:43:49 2003 From: jloj@earthlink.net (Janet Jacobson) Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 20:43:49 -0500 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Red Yucca Message-ID: <5.1.1.6.2.20030930204115.00a5a7e0@pop.earthlink.net> We have 20+ Red Yuccas bordering our front yard in the Austin, TX area that have been gnawed badly by the local white-tail deer population this summer. The plants are also overgrown with some type of weed. Can I cut the yuccas back for the winter? Will they grow back next spring if I do so? Thanks, Janet Jacobson From mmjrwin@cox.net Wed Oct 1 22:02:00 2003 From: mmjrwin@cox.net (mmjrwin@cox.net) Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 15:02:00 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310012202.h91M20Q4013986@Ag.arizona.edu> Pecan tree My tree is about 15 years old. I gave it zinc this spring and it has looked great. Today I notice sap on the leaves for the first time this year. Does it need more Zinc or is it just reacting to the late summer heat? I live in Phoenix, and the tree is holding te best crop of nuts ever. Thanks, Jim Winston From rodmcq6@highstream.net Wed Oct 1 22:04:31 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 15:04:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] A terrible problem References: <50.22c680b4.2cab8941@aol.com> Message-ID: <008401c38868$989fed60$ca31db43@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_006F_01C3882D.5112D380 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Leslie, The chemical Promton is as it is advertised, a total vegetation killer. = I doubt that your first option of removing the soil entirely will do the = job. As for the second option, that of using charcoal, I've not had = experience nor have I heard of anyone who has used charcoal to remove = an unwanted chemical from the soil. My suggestion is to contact the manufacturer of Prompton telling them of = your problem and ask them how to solve the problem. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ----- Original Message -----=20 From: ShySky7144@aol.com=20 To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2003 6:34 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] A terrible problem Rod, while searching the Internet for a solution to my awful problem, = I found a message from you to another person about the use of Prometon. = Long story short, that product (Spectracide Total Vegetation Killer) got = sprayed on my compete lawn; what a nightmare. I have been given two = possible remedies. One is to remove six to seven inches of soil and = dispose of it properly; then bring in new soil and plant grass seed or = sod. This is a very expensive endeavor, for sure. It is especially = problematic or perhaps close to impossible in my back yard, as the = houses are very close together which affords little access to my back = yard. The other suggested remedy is to till flowable charcoal into the = soil, water it immediately, wait a few days and then till again, then = wait three to four weeks, bring in new soil, till again, and then plant = grass seed or soil. Certainly, the latter remedy would be easier and = cheaper than the first. Do you think either would work? I cannot = imagine living with looking at nothing growing in my back and front = yards for a year or more. I would appreciate any help that you can give = me, including any other resources you might suggest. Thank you very much. If possible, please respond to me directly = without publishing this email, or publish it without my email address. Leslie ------=_NextPart_000_006F_01C3882D.5112D380 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Leslie,
The chemical Promton is as it is advertised, a total = vegetation killer. I doubt that your first option of removing the soil = entirely=20 will do the job. As for the second option, that of using charcoal, I've = not had=20 experience nor have I heard of anyone who has used  charcoal = to remove=20 an unwanted chemical from the soil.
My suggestion is to contact the manufacturer of = Prompton=20 telling them of your problem and ask them how to solve the = problem.
 
Good luck.
 
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
 
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 ShySky7144@aol.com
To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= =20
Sent: Tuesday, September 30, = 2003 6:34=20 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] A = terrible=20 problem

Rod, while searching the Internet for a solution to = my awful=20 problem, I found a message from you to another person about the use of = Prometon.  Long story short, that product (Spectracide Total = Vegetation=20 Killer) got sprayed on my compete lawn; what a nightmare.  I have = been=20 given two possible remedies.  One is to remove six to seven = inches of=20 soil and dispose of it properly; then bring in new soil and plant = grass seed=20 or sod.  This is a very expensive endeavor, for sure.  It is = especially problematic or perhaps close to impossible in my back yard, = as the=20 houses are very close together which affords little access to my back=20 yard.  The other suggested remedy is to till flowable charcoal = into the=20 soil, water it immediately, wait a few days and then till again, then = wait=20 three to four weeks, bring in new soil, till again, and then plant = grass seed=20 or soil.  Certainly, the latter remedy would be easier and = cheaper than=20 the first.  Do you think either would work?  I cannot = imagine living=20 with looking at nothing growing in my back and front yards for a year = or=20 more.  I would appreciate any help that you can give me, = including any=20 other resources you might suggest.

Thank you very much.  = If=20 possible, please respond to me directly without publishing this email, = or=20 publish it without my email address.

Leslie

------=_NextPart_000_006F_01C3882D.5112D380-- From pwolterb@Ag.arizona.edu Wed Oct 1 14:09:43 2003 From: pwolterb@Ag.arizona.edu (Paul Wolterbeek) Date: Wed, 01 Oct 2003 07:09:43 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] announcement? Message-ID: <3.0.6.32.20031001070943.008cbe20@ag.arizona.edu> Master Gardeners: Boyce Thompson Arboretum wants you! Are you available to put in a weekend morning or afternoon during the Fall Plant Sale which is held from Oct. 10-27? Do you have a Friday, Saturday or Sunday to help assist customers during this important annual fundraiser at Boyce Thompson Arboretum? Duties range from answering general plant queries and assisting customers to helping load purchases. If you're available please contact the volunteer coordinator with an email or by phone 520-689-2723 . The Arboretum is located at highway 60 milepost #223, just three miles west of Superior (or 45 minutes east of Mesa) via the Superstition Freeway. For more information click on: http://arboretum.ag.arizona.edu/events/plantsale.html From gwright@Ag.arizona.edu Wed Oct 1 15:50:27 2003 From: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu (Glenn C. Wright) Date: Wed, 01 Oct 2003 08:50:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Recommended grapefruits Message-ID: <5.1.1.6.2.20031001084144.03184760@ag.arizona.edu> Dear JohnnieB: Grapefruit recommended for Arizona include 'White Marsh', 'Pink Marsh', 'Redblush', 'Ruby Red', 'Rio Red' and 'Flame'. We do not recommend 'Star Ruby'. You might also consider 'Oro Blanco' and 'Melogold', both white-fleshed grapefruit x pummelo hybrids. Best regards, GCW Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D. Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist University of Arizona - Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center 2186 W. County 15th Street Somerton, AZ 85350 Phone: 928-726-0458 FAX: 928-726-1363 e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu From MRDUCKSMRNOT41@MSN.COM Thu Oct 2 05:26:55 2003 From: MRDUCKSMRNOT41@MSN.COM (MRDUCKSMRNOT41@MSN.COM) Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 22:26:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310020526.h925QsQ4013232@Ag.arizona.edu> Mature Date Palms.Can you "skin" them without harming them? From cstephens@infinet-is.com Wed Oct 1 16:43:03 2003 From: cstephens@infinet-is.com (Charles Stephens) Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 09:43:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: reese mesquite References: Message-ID: <000901c3883b$15f79160$a3da13d8@default> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01C38800.687CE920 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Din, Sorry, but I never heard of the "Reese Mesquite". Maybe somone else on = the Arid_Gardener list can help you. I'll forward your message. Charlie ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Din Din=20 To: cstephens@infinet-is.com=20 Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2003 6:59 PM Subject: reese mesquite I have heard of a hybrid mesquite called 'Reese' or something. What can you tell me about this? How evergreen is it? How fast = growing? Appearance? How can I get one? Thanks for your help. Din in Tucson, AZ -------------------------------------------------------------------------= ----- Get more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : = http://explorer.msn.com ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01C38800.687CE920 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Din,
Sorry, but I never heard of = the "Reese=20 Mesquite". Maybe somone else on the Arid_Gardener list can help you. = I'll=20 forward your message.
Charlie
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Din Din =
To: cstephens@infinet-is.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 30, = 2003 6:59=20 PM
Subject: reese mesquite

I have heard of a hybrid mesquite called 'Reese' or = something.
 
What can you tell me about this?  How evergreen is it?  = How=20 fast growing?  Appearance?  How can I get one?
 
Thanks for your help.
 
Din in Tucson, AZ



Get more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : http://explorer.msn.com

------=_NextPart_000_0006_01C38800.687CE920-- From kalldg@aol.com Wed Oct 1 18:21:35 2003 From: kalldg@aol.com (kalldg@aol.com) Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 11:21:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310011821.h91ILZQ4026283@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like to plant vegetables, flowers and herbs both in pots and in plots of garden that rabbits will not eat. Do you have any suggestions? Thank You. From kyoung@Ag.arizona.edu Wed Oct 1 16:22:45 2003 From: kyoung@Ag.arizona.edu (Kelly Young) Date: Wed, 01 Oct 2003 09:22:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fall Garden Festival Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20031001091908.01c37e38@cals.arizona.edu> --=====================_6347066==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Garden Festival If you want to give your landscape and gardens a face-lift and don't know where to start, check out the co-sponsored Maricopa County Master Gardeners/Metro Tech High School Garden Festival. The Festival is set for Saturday, October 25, at Metro Tech High School, 19th Avenue and Thomas Road, Phoenix. Refresh your garden for fall. Come select from hundreds of varieties of plants at unbelievably low prices! Shop the Fall Garden Rummage Sale. Presentations by master gardeners in the areas of gardening, composting, recycling, and water gardens. Visit with representatives of local garden clubs. Check out garden-related projects by students at Metro Tech High School or visit many other exhibitor booths featuring holiday arts and crafts, gardening books, seeds and fresh produce. A little something for everyone, bring the family and your friends. DETAILS: 8:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. Saturday, October 25, 2003. Free Admission. For more, call 602-470-1556, ext. 1017 or visit http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/calendar/fallgdnf.htm. Kelly Young Program Coordinator, Urban Horticulture The University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone (602) 470-8086 ext. 311 Fax (602) 470-8092 kyoung@ag.arizona.edu The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona. --=====================_6347066==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Garden Festival

If you want to give your landscape and gardens a face-lift and don’t know where to start, check out the co-sponsored Maricopa County Master Gardeners/Metro Tech High School Garden Festival.  The Festival is set for Saturday, October 25, at Metro Tech High School, 19th Avenue and Thomas Road, Phoenix.

     Refresh your garden for fall. Come select from hundreds of varieties of plants at unbelievably low prices! Shop the Fall Garden Rummage Sale.  Presentations by master gardeners in the areas of gardening, composting, recycling, and water gardens.  Visit with representatives of local garden clubs.  Check out garden-related projects by students at Metro Tech High School or visit many other exhibitor booths featuring holiday arts and crafts, gardening books, seeds and fresh produce.  A little something for everyone, bring the family and your friends.

DETAILS:  8:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. Saturday, October 25, 2003.  Free Admission.  For more, call 602-470-1556, ext. 1017 or visit http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/calendar/fallgdnf.htm.  


Kelly Young
Program Coordinator, Urban Horticulture
The University of Arizona
Maricopa County Cooperative Extension
4341 E. Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ  85040-8807
Phone (602) 470-8086 ext. 311
Fax (602) 470-8092
kyoung@ag.arizona.edu

The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona.
--=====================_6347066==_.ALT-- From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net Wed Oct 1 23:45:32 2003 From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 16:45:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sweet Potato HArvest References: <200309302120.h8ULKeA1029564@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <00a201c38878$dd5c69a0$2b50530c@olin> The usual recommendation one hears is to harvest after the leaves begin to die back, usually after a frost. Problem is, the leaves may not die back here and we may not get a frost so I recommend harvesting when they are big enough to eat. According to my notes, I usually harvest about November 1 (Phoenix area) but I did not grow any this year so I can't give you a better answer. Back in 2001, I grew the largest one I have ever seen and it was harvested just before a garden show on November 10. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > My son took a yam or sweet potato that had sprouted and planted it in my garden. The garden is now being over run by the plant. I am new to growing yams and am wondering how I tell when they are ready to harvest and if there is anything special I should be doing to the plant. From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net Wed Oct 1 23:32:20 2003 From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 16:32:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Real Soil Probe References: <200309302225.h8UMPEA1013208@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <00a101c38878$dc67f780$2b50530c@olin> I purchased mine from A.M. Leonard's catalog. Also available on line at http://www.amleo.com/ Search for "soil probe" or "soil sampler". Mine is the 21 inch probe but there is also a 36 inch probe. Very useful device. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2003 3:25 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Does anyone know where I can purchase a soil probe in the Phoenix area? I just want to test the ground to see how often I need to deep water trees. I have heard of the suggestion of using rebar, however, it's for a church and I was asked to purchase a real one. From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net Wed Oct 1 23:54:21 2003 From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 16:54:21 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Seaons for Allergenic Plants in AZ References: <200309292329.h8TNTFA1027299@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <00a301c38878$de528970$2b50530c@olin> There is a list at http://www.peds.arizona.edu/allergyimmunology/southwest/grass_weeds/commongrass.html I don't know if dogs and cats would have the same sensitivities as humans. A google search using <"allergenic plants" +arizona> will bring up several other sites. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > I treat a lot of dogs and cats with pollen allergies. Is there any source where I can find pollenating seasons for the weeds, trees and shrubs indigenous to the Phoenix valley area > Thanks for your immediate reply > Leland Veith From Jonathan Kandell" <00a201c38878$dd5c69a0$2b50530c@olin> Message-ID: <005901c388f7$1cff5120$ace08044@oemcomputer> in tucson about a month before thanksgiving is about right... then "cured" three weeks in your house. when leaves start to yellow is about right, or when you start to see flowers, or when they die back. you can check out the size by carefully digging. ----- Original Message ----- From: "olin" To: ; Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2003 4:45 PM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Sweet Potato HArvest > The usual recommendation one hears is to harvest after the leaves begin > to die back, usually after a frost. Problem is, the leaves may not die > back here and we may not get a frost so I recommend harvesting when they > are big enough to eat. According to my notes, I usually harvest about > November 1 (Phoenix area) but I did not grow any this year so I can't > give you a better answer. Back in 2001, I grew the largest one I have > ever seen and it was harvested just before a garden show on November 10. > Olin > > ----- Original Message ----- From: > > My son took a yam or sweet potato that had sprouted and planted it in > my garden. The garden is now being over run by the plant. I am new to > growing yams and am wondering how I tell when they are ready to harvest > and if there is anything special I should be doing to the plant. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From kelli.m.riley@wachoviasec.com Thu Oct 2 17:39:28 2003 From: kelli.m.riley@wachoviasec.com (kelli.m.riley@wachoviasec.com) Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2003 10:39:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310021739.h92HdSQ4029349@Ag.arizona.edu> I have mature (8 yr) oleanders that are one by one dying (they are planted in a row)the leaves turn brown and fall off-- I have replanted 3 of them and they don't appear to be progressing very well. My landscaper said he didn't really know what was causing it but treated the ground for a fungus--the condition is continuing passing one plant further down the line--the next guy said it is a bug carried by birds. I don't know what to do--I thought it was hard to kill these plants--Can you help? Thanks From garyb135@cox.net Fri Oct 3 21:51:09 2003 From: garyb135@cox.net (garyb135@cox.net) Date: Fri, 3 Oct 2003 14:51:09 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310032151.h93Lp9Q4016082@Ag.arizona.edu> Greetings, What types of herbs do well in the climate around Phoenix? I am interested in planting herbs that will grow in the fall and winter, and year round if that is possible. I could use some tips on the planting and care of herbs as well. I live just south and east of the phoenix metro area. Thanks, Gary From rdburrow@prodigy.net Fri Oct 3 18:25:41 2003 From: rdburrow@prodigy.net (rdburrow@prodigy.net) Date: Fri, 3 Oct 2003 11:25:41 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310031825.h93IPfQ4029755@Ag.arizona.edu> I have small (no larger than 1")mound of dirt all through my garden. The mounds are very granular in appearance, but do not look anything like regular ant hills. Can you tell me what's going on? From arizbunzer@msn.com Fri Oct 3 22:33:06 2003 From: arizbunzer@msn.com (arizbunzer@msn.com) Date: Fri, 3 Oct 2003 15:33:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310032233.h93MX6Q4023861@Ag.arizona.edu> I am a six-month resident of the Phoenix area. Is it acceptable to prune Bougainvillea and Baja Ruellia in the fall? From rodmcq6@highstream.net Thu Oct 2 22:07:29 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2003 15:07:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palm Tree Care References: <200310020526.h925QsQ4013232@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <006b01c38931$97007be0$fa31db43@ibmbna6040> An excellent bulletin about palm tree care and titled ARIZONA LANDSCAPE PALMS is available on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2003 10:26 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Mature Date Palms.Can you "skin" them without harming them? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From fck82@yahoo.com Thu Oct 2 23:36:51 2003 From: fck82@yahoo.com (fck82@yahoo.com) Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2003 16:36:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310022336.h92NapQ4019113@Ag.arizona.edu> Please, help. How can I find out what my garden needs to improve the soil, I have so much problems: tomatoes , cucumbers, eggplants are starting to grow and then stop flowering and no vegeta bles I get at the end. I have only peppers, that somehow are growing. Do you offer seminars, or lectures about gardening? Thank you Isak From rodmcq6@highstream.net Thu Oct 2 22:44:39 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2003 15:44:39 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oleanders dying References: <200310021739.h92HdSQ4029349@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <00bc01c38936$c4d5efa0$fa31db43@ibmbna6040> Kelli, The problem with your oleanders could be as simple as inadequate irrigation. One way to find out is to deep water them now at 2 week intervals, they will respond if that is the problem provided they are not already too far gone. Another possibility is Oleander Leaf Scorch. If this is the problem water will not help them recover. You can find out for sure by taking a sample shoot that has both live and dead growth on it to U. of A., Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for an opinion and a lab test. Unfortunately there is no known cure for Oleander Leaf Scorch. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ---- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2003 10:39 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I have mature (8 yr) oleanders that are one by one dying (they are planted in a row)the leaves turn brown and fall off-- I have replanted 3 of them and they don't appear to be progressing very well. My landscaper said he didn't really know what was causing it but treated the ground for a fungus--the condition is continuing passing one plant further down the line--the next guy said it is a bug carried by birds. I don't know what to do--I thought it was hard to kill these plants--Can you help? Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rodmcq6@highstream.net Thu Oct 2 22:18:46 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2003 15:18:46 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus, Pruning References: <200309282016.h8SKGVA1020840@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <008c01c38933$2845b420$fa31db43@ibmbna6040> Citrus trees should only be pruned to to remove dead or damaged branches, crossing branches, new growth from below the graft and wayward branches. Dead wood can be pruned at any time however live growth should be pruned in the spring. An excellent bulletin titled CITRUS TREES IN THE HOME GARDEN is available for $1.00 from U. of A., Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2003 1:16 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I have a lime, orange and a lemon tree. I need to have information about pruning. Where can I get it > Glad Stern > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rodmcq6@highstream.net Sat Oct 4 23:22:53 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Sat, 4 Oct 2003 16:22:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvillea, Pruning References: <200310032233.h93MX6Q4023861@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <002801c38ace$70e72b40$7d04e043@ibmbna6040> Bougainvillea growth is so vigorous that it is usually necessary to prune it several times a year. It is best to not prune it in late fall because it is quite frost tender and pruning will spur new growth. Ruellia pensularis does not require much pruning however if it needs pruning it should be done right away. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, October 03, 2003 3:33 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I am a six-month resident of the Phoenix area. Is it acceptable to prune Bougainvillea and Baja Ruellia in the fall? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From kbert5@yahoo.com Sun Oct 5 06:59:26 2003 From: kbert5@yahoo.com (Bertrand Kovac) Date: Sat, 4 Oct 2003 23:59:26 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sick Brazillian Pepper Tree Message-ID: <20031005065926.40953.qmail@web40506.mail.yahoo.com> I had a mature pepper tree with multiple trunks of 6 to 8 inch diameter. Every August it would lose one or two branches but this year the whole tree turned brown. The arborist I hired offered Cotton Rot as a possible explanation and cut the tree back to one foot stumps. I sent root samples to the Tucson lab' but the plant pathologist could not identify any pathogen. The tree was growing in an area where it is very difficult to control water; next to a golf course. It was not receiving the same deep waterings that I apply to my citrus. To water it properly in the future, I will have to use ahose. Everything else on my property is on a sprinkler timer. During the six weeks since the tree was drastically cut back, the stumps have produced a luxurious growth of leafy branches. The new growth is very vigorous. Two questions: How best to nurture the new growth? How long will it take to reach a ten foot height? Thanks in advance. Bert Keates ===== Bertrand Kovac __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search http://shopping.yahoo.com From dropzone457@aol.com Sat Oct 4 20:33:39 2003 From: dropzone457@aol.com (dropzone457@aol.com) Date: Sat, 4 Oct 2003 13:33:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310042033.h94KXdQ4006331@Ag.arizona.edu> Hello: We have 3 Queen Palms planted on a berm on our property. My problem is watering. How much? How often? At the prsent time the longest frond have turned yellow. Everyone thinks they are a landscaper and know thw answer to watering and they are all different. I have just capped the 4 emitters per tree and have discontinued the once a week deep watering. The trees have been serviced and fertilized, (spikes and Manganese) by Valley Tree Service but only time will tell. They say deep water once a week and a garden center says "you're killing them." AAGH !!! From sbarvian1@cableaz.com Sat Oct 4 19:21:09 2003 From: sbarvian1@cableaz.com (Scott Barvian) Date: Sat, 4 Oct 2003 12:21:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Master Gardener Manual Message-ID: <011801c38aac$aa9056e0$2824a8c0@lbmelman> Is the MG Manual written by the Master Gardeners with the techniques needed in the Arizona climate, or is it more generic? I'm asking because I was looking for tips on container vegetable gardening, and found these two pages which look very similar: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/vegetable/container.html http://www.mastergardenproducts.com/gardenerscorner/container_gardening.htm the latter being copyrighted. (And, if anyone has tips for growing peppers and tomatoes in containers during the fall, please let me know. Looking for recommendations on container size, fertilizing advice, etc.) From Jstrat2226@aol.com Sun Oct 5 23:23:25 2003 From: Jstrat2226@aol.com (Jstrat2226@aol.com) Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2003 19:23:25 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] bob sod Message-ID: --part1_c3.38a08e8e.2cb201ed_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit should bob sod be overseeded with winter rye? Will bob sod remain green all winter or die out like Bermuda? --part1_c3.38a08e8e.2cb201ed_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable should bob sod be overseeded with winter rye?  Will bob sod=20= remain green all winter or die out like Bermuda? --part1_c3.38a08e8e.2cb201ed_boundary-- From emy_wa@yahoo.com Tue Oct 7 18:37:27 2003 From: emy_wa@yahoo.com (emy_wa@yahoo.com) Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2003 11:37:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310071837.h97IbRQ4004497@Ag.arizona.edu> We have a large glass enclosed atrium in our office and there are glossy spots appearing on the leaves of the plants. It constantly looks as if someone has just watered. Scale has been suggested but that doesn't seem to fit the information I just found on the internet. Any help in identifying and clearing up will be appreciated. From watsontl@mindspring.com Sat Oct 4 00:47:59 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Fri, 3 Oct 2003 17:47:59 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Herbs in Phoenix References: <200310032151.h93Lp9Q4016082@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000701c38a11$293433f0$6261b83f@S0029317241> When I lived in Phoenix we found the various peppermints to do well year 'round. The same for oregano. Both benefited from a little shade during the hottest part of summer. Lavenders also grew well, although they needed a bit more shade (and in fact did best when fully shaded during the afternoon during the summer. Ditto for horehound. Basil absolutely thrives in hot weather, so long as you can meet its water needs. Our were tremendously productive. Other herbs (lemon verbena, dill, and cilantro were the ones we grew) seemed to do well only during the cooler months. Organically rich, well-drained soil turned out to be the key to success for us. Go easy on nitrogen fertilizers. We had a little trouble with aphids in the spring, which were dealt with by using a mild soap solution (really need to rinse the herbs well before using if that should prove necessary). Otherwise, pests weren't much of a problem. When growing peppermint, consider restricting it to pots. Otherwise it spreads like crazy, and can be difficult to control. (But then, all our problems should smell so good!) Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, October 03, 2003 2:51 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Greetings, > What types of herbs do well in the climate around Phoenix? I am interested in planting herbs that will grow in the fall and winter, and year round if that is possible. I could use some tips on the planting and care of herbs as well. I live just south and east of the phoenix metro area. > Thanks, > Gary > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From tomarg@att.net Mon Oct 6 00:45:25 2003 From: tomarg@att.net (Tom Blount) Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2003 19:45:25 -0500 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Killing bermuda grass Message-ID: <008b01c38ba4$fc8aad30$9008570c@tom> Can you help me . I have a bed of Asian Jasmine which Bermuda grass is invading. Can I kill the Bermuda without killing the Jasmine? From typographer@cox.net Sat Oct 4 17:17:00 2003 From: typographer@cox.net (Mark Sarantos) Date: Sat, 04 Oct 2003 10:17:00 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] ....ailing Italian Cypress Message-ID: <20031004171640.SWBH1644.fed1mtao04.cox.net@[68.2.168.205]> Arid Gardener-- My 15-year-old 20-foot-tall Italian Cypress are displaying unsettling symptoms. The once spire-like columns are now droopy and random areas midway up the tree are losing needles and turning brown. I've inspected the tree and don't see any tell-tale 'webs' from mites. I water thoroughly once a week (deep soaks) and have given them MiracleGro feeds once every 3 months. What's wrong with my trees...hate to lose them. Mark mark@sumdesign.com From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net Sat Oct 4 00:16:50 2003 From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Fri, 3 Oct 2003 17:16:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Small Dirt Mounds in Garden References: <200310031825.h93IPfQ4029755@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <012901c38a0c$d568ed50$0752530c@olin> Probably doodle bugs, . In the larva stage they are called antlions. They dig a shallow cone-shaped pit in loose soil with 1 1/2 to 2 " mounds and wait at the bottom for an ant or other insect to slip and and fall in. It is not always easy to dig one from the pit because it remains motionless when disturbed and covered with a layer of dust The adult resembles a damselfly but is seldom seen - comes out only in the evening. Photo at:: http://insects.tamu.edu/images/insects/common/images/b-txt/bimg127.html The larva lurks at the bottom of the pit. Photo at: http://insects.tamu.edu/images/insects/common/images/b-txt/bimg128.html For more info, try googling using "myrmeleontidae". to confirm the ID. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > I have small (no larger than 1")mound of dirt all through my garden. The mounds are very granular in appearance, but do not look anything like regular ant hills. Can you tell me what's going on? From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Oct 7 22:44:17 2003 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 07 Oct 2003 15:44:17 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: propagating red yucca] Message-ID: <3F8341C1.9090900@qwest.net> --------------050607000008070808000602 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Could someone help Jane, please? -------- Original Message -------- Subject: propagating red yucca Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2003 13:51:01 -0500 From: "jane" To: lindaguy@qwest.net What time of year do you plant the seeds? I live at 6000 ft in the desert mountains of texas.........and ideas? thanks, Jane --------------050607000008070808000602 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Could someone help Jane, please?

-------- Original Message --------
Subject: propagating red yucca
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2003 13:51:01 -0500
From: "jane" <jane1@starband.net>
To: lindaguy@qwest.net


What time of year do you plant the seeds?  I live at 6000 ft in the desert mountains of texas.........and ideas?    thanks,   Jane
--------------050607000008070808000602-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Oct 7 22:52:40 2003 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 07 Oct 2003 15:52:40 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: pruning orange trees] Message-ID: <3F8343B8.7020602@qwest.net> --------------070509080700000503060908 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Could someone please reply to John? -------- Original Message -------- Subject: pruning orange trees Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2003 09:04:18 -0400 From: "John" To: lindaguy@qwest.net Would like info on pruning my navel orange tree. I live in South Florida. Thank you John --------------070509080700000503060908 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Could someone please reply to John?

-------- Original Message --------
Subject: pruning orange trees
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2003 09:04:18 -0400
From: "John" <travel13@worldnet.att.net>
To: lindaguy@qwest.net


Would like info on pruning my navel orange tree. I live in South Florida.  Thank you
 
John
--------------070509080700000503060908-- From travel13@worldnet.att.net Tue Oct 7 13:07:47 2003 From: travel13@worldnet.att.net (John) Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2003 09:07:47 -0400 Subject: [Arid_gardener] pruning orange trees Message-ID: <000801c38cd4$021fa6d0$9865fea9@john> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C38CB2.7A4363D0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Would like info. on pruning orange trees. I live in south Florida. Thank you John ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C38CB2.7A4363D0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Would like info. on pruning orange = trees. I live in=20 south Florida.
 
Thank you
 
John
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C38CB2.7A4363D0-- From darizona@ieee.org Tue Oct 7 04:34:25 2003 From: darizona@ieee.org (darizona@ieee.org) Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 21:34:25 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310070434.h974YPQ4011967@Ag.arizona.edu> When should Lady Banks roses be fertilized? From JJcsieger@aol.com Sun Oct 5 05:33:28 2003 From: JJcsieger@aol.com (JJcsieger@aol.com) Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2003 01:33:28 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] MESQUITE TREES Message-ID: <11a.291e4866.2cb10728@aol.com> -------------------------------1065332007 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I am looking for any information about the removal or treatment of mistle toe infected mesquite trees. any information about products to treat the infection, or methods to effectively irradicate it. thank you. -------------------------------1065332007 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I am looking for any information about the removal or treatment of mist= le toe infected mesquite trees. any information about products to treat the=20= infection, or methods to effectively irradicate it. thank you.
<= /HTML> -------------------------------1065332007-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Oct 6 20:04:14 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 20:04:14 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] What's burrowing into my soil? Message-ID: one possibility might be decollette snails >From: Krulich@aol.com >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] What's burrowing into my soil? >Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 15:29:15 EDT > >I have some small trees in 5 gallon pots, and I noticed that in each pot >there are a few holes around 1/4" in diameter in the soil. Also, the soil >is >getting pushed out through the drain holes around the bottom. Does anyone >know >what is causing this? > >Tom >Tucson, AZ >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Instant message with integrated webcam using MSN Messenger 6.0. Try it now FREE! http://msnmessenger-download.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Oct 6 19:57:45 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 19:57:45 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Red Yucca Message-ID: I have no expereince with cutting red yucca back. I suggest you contact your local Cooperative Extension office (in the "County" pages of the phone book). They should be able to give you better advice. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Janet Jacobson >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Red Yucca >Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 20:43:49 -0500 > >We have 20+ Red Yuccas bordering our front yard in the Austin, TX area that >have been gnawed badly by the local white-tail deer population this summer. > The plants are also overgrown with some type of weed. Can I cut the >yuccas back for the winter? Will they grow back next spring if I do so? > >Thanks, >Janet Jacobson > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Instant message with integrated webcam using MSN Messenger 6.0. Try it now FREE! http://msnmessenger-download.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Oct 6 19:53:02 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 19:53:02 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] fall herbs Message-ID: here is an earlier response to a similar question: Mints, Parsley, Oregano and Sage are all best planted in the fall. Basil is a warm season herb that will die back with a freeze. It prefers a sunny location. Mints require a moist soil with shade. If you grow mint it is a good idea to keep it contained. You can get more information on growing herbs in the low desert from the Arizona Herb Association. You can visit their web page by going to: http://www.accessarizona.com/community/groups/azherb/index.html Sue Bass Master Gardener >From: garyb135@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 3 Oct 2003 14:51:09 -0700 (MST) > >Greetings, >What types of herbs do well in the climate around Phoenix? I am interested >in planting herbs that will grow in the fall and winter, and year round if >that is possible. I could use some tips on the planting and care of herbs >as well. I live just south and east of the phoenix metro area. >Thanks, >Gary > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Instant message in style with MSN Messenger 6.0. Download it now FREE! http://msnmessenger-download.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Oct 6 19:55:43 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 19:55:43 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] pruning bougainvillea and ruellia Message-ID: Bougainvillea and Ruellia are usually pruned in the spring after growth begins again. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: arizbunzer@msn.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 3 Oct 2003 15:33:06 -0700 (MST) > >I am a six-month resident of the Phoenix area. Is it acceptable to prune >Bougainvillea and Baja Ruellia in the fall? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get MSN 8 Dial-up Internet Service FREE for one month. Limited time offer-- sign up now! http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/dialup From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Oct 6 19:50:12 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 19:50:12 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] ant dirt mound Message-ID: These sound like new ant nests just getting started by a single ant. Most of these will perish quickly. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: rdburrow@prodigy.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 3 Oct 2003 11:25:41 -0700 (MST) > >I have small (no larger than 1")mound of dirt all through my garden. The >mounds are very granular in appearance, but do not look anything like >regular ant hills. Can you tell me what's going on? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Share your photos without swamping your Inbox. Get Hotmail Extra Storage today! http://join.msn.com/?PAGE=features/es From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Oct 6 19:47:14 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 19:47:14 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] vegetable garden Message-ID: Our soils need as much organic matter as you can supply each time you plant. Some nitrogen and phosphorus sources are also necessary. Water is critical and it takes some time and experimenting to develop a watering schedule that works for your plants and soil. Planting at the right time is also important. Here is a planting guide for Maricopa County: http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1005.pdf Linda Drew Master Gardener And here is some advice published earlier: You might want to keep abreast of the monthly garden activities at our Timely Tips section at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm The page with the recommended reading list is located at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/library/ref-grdn.htm I really like George Brookbank's Desert Gardening and Nyhuis' Desert Harvest. Of course you could try our own Desert Gardening for Beginners, which many nurseries carry, or you can order online. Sometimes life gets the best of me and I purchase six packs of transplants, particularly cabbage, broccoli, etc. from my favorite local nursery. But I adore my salad greens and purchase an array of seeds to keep the salad bowl in both the house and the rabbit hutch filled to overflowing. You might be amazed to learn that the seeds from the catalogs of our more northerly neighbors, which feature short-season varieties, can do well here. That's because our seasons are also short....short autumns before the coolness causes a temporary hibernation of some winter crops which recover come February or so. Similarly, we plant tomatos, usually with some protection in February and the short season or "early" varieties start producing well before the summer's blast. >From: fck82@yahoo.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2003 16:36:51 -0700 (MST) > >Please, help. > >How can I find out what my garden needs to > >improve the soil, I have so much problems: > >tomatoes , cucumbers, eggplants are starting > >to grow and then stop flowering and no vegeta > >bles I get at the end. I have only peppers, > >that somehow are growing. > >Do you offer seminars, or lectures about > >gardening? > >Thank you > >Isak > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Add MSN 8 Internet Software to your existing Internet access and enjoy patented spam protection and more. Sign up now! http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/byoa From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Oct 6 19:38:29 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 19:38:29 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] rabbit-resistant plants Message-ID: Rabbits will eat almost anything if hungry enough. THe best deterrent is a barrier to exclude them. Here is some information: http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening/news/azdailystar/rabbits_in_garden.html http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1237.pdf Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: kalldg@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 11:21:35 -0700 (MST) > >I would like to plant vegetables, flowers and herbs both in pots and in >plots of garden that rabbits will not eat. Do you have any suggestions? >Thank You. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get McAfee virus scanning and cleaning of incoming attachments. Get Hotmail Extra Storage! http://join.msn.com/?PAGE=features/es From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Oct 6 19:28:41 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 19:28:41 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] tree ID Message-ID: One possibility is the pink floss silk tree (Chorisia speciosa) Another possibility is one of the Bauhinia species. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: duane.floyd@pinnaclewest.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 13:42:32 -0700 (MST) > >I just purchased a new home and have a tree I have never seen before. The >truck is uniformly covered with thons thst most resemble taht of a rose >bush. It has small semi-round leaves and a smooth, greyish back above the >thorn cover. Any hints? >Thank you, >Duane > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Frustrated with dial-up? Get high-speed for as low as $29.95/month (depending on the local service providers in your area). https://broadband.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Oct 6 19:18:50 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 19:18:50 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] mesquites, African sumac Message-ID: My experience is that both of these trees do produce quite a bit of litter; haven't noticed much difference between them. One big difference is African sumac is very susceptible to cotton (Texas) root rot and mesquite is tolerant of it. Also sumac reseeds readily; mesquite has invasive roots that may cause problems near leaky plumbing and sewer lines. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: tkrilling@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 13:11:48 -0700 (MST) > >I would like to know the lifespan of both African Sumac and Mesquite trees. > >The house I purchased has two African Sumacs, which are probably about 20 >years old. They are VERY high maintenance. I'm wondering about replacing >them with one or two Mesquite trees, which also demand a certain degree of >maintenance, but I don't think they are quite as bad as the A.S. > >Does this make sense to you? > >Thanks for any imput you can provide. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Add MSN 8 Internet Software to your existing Internet access and enjoy patented spam protection and more. Sign up now! http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/byoa From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Oct 6 19:10:58 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 19:10:58 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] tortoises, grasses Message-ID: I am not an expert on grasses, but here is some information I have found: Bermuda grass may eventually crowd out everything else, so you may want to plant it in a contained area. Buffalo grass will form a turf, but is not as aggressive as bermuda (needs the same amount of water though). The bluestems and gramas are bunch grasses and a variety of them should grow together. The fescues are usually cool season grasses here (those listed above are warm season). You might also want to see if there are other supplemental foods you can provide (I would think you will need a lot of grasses to feed them as they get bigger). I have a desert tortoise through the Arizona Sonora Desert Museum and they offer a list of supplemental foods that are acceptable. The recommended diet is of course a variety of native grasses and small herbaceous plants such as globe mallow. It may be necessary to have "pastures" so you can move them around and let the vegetation rebound. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: kjatjh@cableaz.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 09:45:55 -0700 (MST) > >I hope I have reached the right officer, if I have not, please forward this >email. I have African Spur Tortoises (also known as sulcata) that grow to >150lbs. I live in Mesa and have an average size shaded home lot. I need >to grow grasses for the tortoises but do not know which of the following >would grow in my area and conditions, which would grow together, or when >they should be planted. The following is a list of recommended grasses for >these tortoises, they also recommend a feeding a variety of them. Can you >please advise? >Buffalo grass (Buchloe dactyloides) >Bermuda grass (Cynodon dactylon -- which actually originated in Africa!) >Orchardgrass (Dactylis glomerata) >Big Bluestem (Andropogon gerardii) >Little Bluestem (Andropogon scoparious) >Western wheatgrass (Agropyron smithii) >Blue Grama (Bouteloua gracilis) >Arizona Fescue (Festuca arizonica) >Lawn Fescue (Festuca arundinacea) >Sheep Fescue (Festuca ovina) >Creeping Red Fescue (Festuca rubra) > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Instant message during games with MSN Messenger 6.0. Download it now FREE! http://msnmessenger-download.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Oct 6 18:48:29 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 18:48:29 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] wall and patio around tree Message-ID: Both of these actions might cause damage to the tree. If possible, locate the planter and patio beyond the dripline of the tree. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: hefjay@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 16:25:14 -0700 (MST) > >I have a ficus tree that is about 25' tall, 20' in diameter and about 8 >years old. I want to build a brick planter around the bottom of it about >12-18 inches tall, and then brick patio out from their. The problem there >are some surface roots where I want to put the patio. Will cutting out the >problem roots or building the planter hurt the tree? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Instant message in style with MSN Messenger 6.0. Download it now FREE! http://msnmessenger-download.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Oct 6 18:45:33 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 18:45:33 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] bougainvillea Message-ID: The symptoms you described might be caused by too much water -- either overwatering or poor drainage so the plant stands in water. Could you give us some additional information about how the palnts is being watered? Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: mdecindis@mag.maricopa.gov >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 09:56:39 -0700 (MST) > >I have a 10 year old bougainvillea plant that has started to look very bad. >Thin, and the leaves are light green with white/yellow around the edges. >Please tell me explicitly what to buy and what to do. Thanks. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Instant message during games with MSN Messenger 6.0. Download it now FREE! http://msnmessenger-download.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Oct 6 18:41:36 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 18:41:36 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] blue agave Message-ID: blue agave: Agave tequilana Weber azul this species is somewhat frost-tender and sun-tender in the low desert and should be given overhead protection or light shade (Irish, "Agaves, Yuccas, and Related Plants") Do you think it is getting too much sun? Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: bchristie@att.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2003 19:11:06 -0700 (MST) > > One of our Blue Agaves has drooping leaves on the bottom. THis >started with the leaves (do you call them leaves?) curling, now about the >bottom 1/3 are lying on the rock beneath them. They are still the >bluish-green color. Anything we can/should do? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Instant message during games with MSN Messenger 6.0. Download it now FREE! http://msnmessenger-download.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Oct 6 18:29:17 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 18:29:17 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cooperative Extension offices Message-ID: in Phoenix, the main Cooperative Extension office is: 4341 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040, (602) 470-8086 in Tucson, the main Cooperative Extension office is: 4210 N. Campbell Avenue, Tucson, Az 85719, (520) 626-5161 Not sure what you have on your oak - brining in a sample is probably the best thing to do. If it is wholly galls, these are caused by a small wasp and are not considered a problem (no treatment necessary). Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: >To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) >Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 12:14:55 -0400 > >I will apologize upfront for not saving the address that you have given out >so many times before. However, the "fuzzy-woolys" are back on my Southern >Live Oak. These appear to be fresh & unhatched egg cases located on the >underside of the leaves. Can you give me the address >that I can walk-in or send a specimen to. I would like to identify what >these are & ascertain if a treatment is available. The affected leaves >will turn brown & drop off in the spring. There are a lot of them > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Share your photos without swamping your Inbox. Get Hotmail Extra Storage today! http://join.msn.com/?PAGE=features/es From angelwingranch@cox.net Mon Oct 6 01:00:30 2003 From: angelwingranch@cox.net (Janet Jorgensen) Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2003 18:00:30 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bird of Paradise Message-ID: <002501c38ba5$3d2140c0$42ad0244@Janet> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0022_01C38B6A.90A85110 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I found your email on the web. I live in North Phoenix... I have a Purple/yellow flower type BOP (sorry I don't know the real = name). It has one bloom but the previous owner of the house seemed to just = "hack" at it...what is the correct way to prune and when should it be = done? Thanks for your help! Janet Jorgensen ------=_NextPart_000_0022_01C38B6A.90A85110 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I found your email on the = web.
I live in North Phoenix...
I have a Purple/yellow flower type BOP = (sorry I=20 don't know the real name).
 
It has one bloom but the previous owner = of the=20 house seemed to just "hack" at it...what is the correct way to prune and = when=20 should it be done?
 
Thanks for your help!
 
Janet Jorgensen
 
------=_NextPart_000_0022_01C38B6A.90A85110-- From jimtinnell@hotmail.com Wed Oct 8 05:01:15 2003 From: jimtinnell@hotmail.com (Jim Tinnell) Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2003 22:01:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Nightshade Vegetables Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C38D1E.878FF640 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable To Whom It May Concern, What fruits and vegetables are in the nightshade family? My doctor = believes that my wife and I are allergic to these foods, so I need a = more comprehensive list of foods to avoid. Thank you, Jim Tinnell ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C38D1E.878FF640 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
To Whom It May Concern,
 
What fruits and vegetables are in the = nightshade=20 family? My doctor believes that my wife and I are allergic to these = foods, so I=20 need a more comprehensive list of foods to avoid.
 
Thank you,
 
Jim Tinnell
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C38D1E.878FF640-- From jonadels@netscape.net Wed Oct 8 04:03:34 2003 From: jonadels@netscape.net (jonadels@netscape.net) Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2003 21:03:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310080403.h9843YQ4013461@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a 5 year old miniature mexican lime tree that is bearing fruit and was doing quite well until 3 days ago. Since then, almost all of the leaves have curled into cigar-like tubes over the entire plant, and the whole tree is drooping. There is no discoloration of the leaves, and I can see no evidence of any spots or insects on the leaves. I did let it go a little longer bewteen waterings, but I've done this before, and at most it results in dropping of yellowing leaves. Is there anything I can do to save this poor tree? From jjmollerus@juno.com Wed Oct 8 14:36:22 2003 From: jjmollerus@juno.com (jjmollerus@juno.com) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 07:36:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310081436.h98EaMQ4016497@Ag.arizona.edu> Where in the valley can I buy French marigold seeds? I have nematodes. Soil sterilization has helped but more need to be done. A local nursery recommended planting marigold seeds with my tomatoes etc. for nematode relief. Searching the web I found plenty of info regarding the use of marigolds for nematode control (ex. No. Carolina Dept of Agriculture at www.ncagr.com/agronomi/nnote1.htm). However, most of the articles point to the use of French or African marigolds. The African marigold is rather large and wouldn't fit the garden. I tried to find French marigold seeds however no luck at nurseries near me. The seed company catalogs don't seem to carry them. Can buy them on the web, however the outfits that seem to bee selling French marigold seeds are located in other countries. Therefore, my question about local seed sources. Thanks John Mollerus From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net Wed Oct 8 18:01:51 2003 From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 11:01:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Nightshade Vegetables References: Message-ID: <000701c38dc6$44c889a0$c653530c@olin> The best known and most common are the solanaceous (nightshade family): Tomatoes, potatoes, eggplant, and peppers. There is also a "vegetable huckleberry" that is actually a solanaceous ground cherry, but it isn't seen very often and only in some home gardens. Olin Miller ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Tinnell" To Whom It May Concern, What fruits and vegetables are in the nightshade family? My doctor believes that my wife and I are allergic to these foods, so I need a more comprehensive list of foods to avoid. Thank you, Jim Tinnell From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net Wed Oct 8 17:40:00 2003 From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 10:40:00 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Growing Container Tomatoes and Peppers (long) References: <011801c38aac$aa9056e0$2824a8c0@lbmelman> Message-ID: <003801c38dc4$4b8d3e40$c653530c@olin> ----- Original Message -----From: "Scott Barvian" Subject: [Arid_gardener] Master Gardener Manual > Is the MG Manual written by the Master Gardeners with the techniques > needed in the Arizona climate, or is it more generic? > I'm asking because I was looking for tips on container vegetable > gardening, and found these two pages which look very similar: > http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/vegetable/container.html > http://www.mastergardenproducts.com/gardenerscorner/container_gardening.htm > the latter being copyrighted. > (And, if anyone has tips for growing peppers and tomatoes in > containers during the fall, please let me know. Looking for > recommendations on container size, fertilizing advice, etc.) You can plant in containers at any time but for best and consistent results, plant: Tomatoes: Mid July to mid August and Mid February to April 1 Sweet Peppers: July and Mid February to April 1 Hot Peppers: March and April If you plant now and keep the containers outdoors, don't expect much growth after December 1 but they should still do okay and you will get a jump start on the sprong growing season. The following article may also be helpful: ================================================= "Gardening in Containers, By Bert Konzal (Adapted from: “Gardening in the Sun”) If you like fresh picked produce but don’t have the space or time for a full fledged vegetable garden, try small scale gardening in containers. If you like color on your patio or in the yard, try flower gardening in containers. In addition to its being fun, there are several reasons for growing flowers in containers: 1. Space for a large garden may not be available if you live in an apartment, a townhouse, a mobile home or a home with a small area for gardening. 2. You may want to grow a few favorite vegetables or a few of your favorite flowers. 3. You can make pleasing arrangements that can be moved around to give variety and change since the combination of attractive plants and containers allows creative ideas to flow. 4. By growing your flowers and vegetables in containers you can protect the plants from gophers, squirrels and rabbits. 5. If you have health problems you can get the containers off the ground to a reasonable height so you can work on them and enjoy them. 6. You can regulate the amount of water each plant gets as well as the nutrients. 7. You may have heavy deposits of caliche or soil contaminated by weed killing chemicals or nematodes. 8. Because our seasons change it is an advantage to be able to move plants into more sheltered places when cold weather or excessive heat requires it. 9. If you are a renter, you can take your garden with you when you move. WHAT KIND OF CONTAINERS CAN BE USED? You can grow flowers or vegetables in expensive clay pots and bowls, plastic pots, drainpipes on end, recycled trash cans, old tires, buckets, cans, boxes, plastic bags, styrofoam chests, bushel baskets, half barrels, produce boxes, steel drums, old boots or shoes and anything else that will hold planting mix. Containers must have drainage holes punched in them on the side or bottom and be free of toxic residue. They can be painted to fit a color scheme or be left in their natural state. Large containers such as half whiskey barrels can be used to grow dwarf fruit trees or heavily pruned standard trees and grapes. Smaller containers for single plants should not be less than two gallons in capacity, otherwise the heat of summer will require water on a daily basis or the roots will burn. Hanging baskets may be used, but require daily watering and increased care. PREPARATION OF CONTAINERS Be sure the containers are clean! New containers can be used immediately, but if you reuse containers they should be sanitized before using. Use one cup of bleach to 5 gallons of water, soak for at least 15 minutes, then wash and dry. Container grown plants need good drainage. You need to cover the drainage holes with some screen or pieces of a broken clay pot. I use the screen covering as it keeps the potting mix in the container and keeps insects and snails from entering the container. If you are using galvanized metal containers they should be painted inside with a non-lead base paint. Zinc in the galvanized coating can be toxic to many plants. WHAT CAN BE GROWN IN CONTAINERS? You can grow practically any flowers or vegetables, especially those which grow rapidly. Plant breeders have recently developed dwarf varieties that grow quickly and well in containers. Listed on page 8 are some of the vegetables I have grown in containers in the Phoenix area WHAT GOES INTO THE CONTAINER The type of planting mix you use will determine your success with container gardening. The growing medium must perform three functions: a. Water holding capacity; b. Air holding capacity; c. Nutrient holding capacity. If you purchase a planting mix be sure it contains peat moss, forest mulch, sand, perlite and vermiculite. A homemade substitute made of equal parts of peat moss, sharp coarse sand, forest mulch or compost and one fourth part perlite and vermiculite. No Arizona soil is used. A slow-release balanced fertilizer, such as Osmocote 14-14-14, should be mixed well into the potting medium at the rate of two ounces per cubic foot of mix. Do not fill the container to the very top. Leave about two inches of space that can be filled with water at each irrigation. The potting medium should not be packed, but remain light and open to allow good root development, aeration and drainage. PLANT THE CORRECT FLOWERS OR VEGETABLES IN THE RIGHT SEASON Seed may be sown directly into the container, but it is preferable to start your seeds in cups earlier or purchase transplants from your favorite nursery. Remember that there are two planting seasons in the low desert, early spring and late summer. Your local nursery can direct you as to what to plant and when to plant. WHERE TO PLACE THE CONTAINERS Flowers and vegetables require six to eight hours of sunlight so place your containers in a location where they will receive the most sunshine. In summer move the containers so they will get protection from afternoon sun. HOW TO GROW THE PLANTS Plants in containers need to be watered more often than plants growing in the ground. Water thoroughly until water comes out the drain holes. In the summer plants in containers need water each day whereas in the winter or cooler weather once or twice per week. Plants in containers need to be fed every seven to ten days with a water soluble plant food such as “Miracle Gro”, one tablespoon per gallon of water. Vegetables will do best if the nitrogen content of the water soluble fertilizer is a little lower. If flowering plants or vegetables get too much nitrogen the plant will be all foliage and very few flowers, fruits or vegetables. Insects like plants grown in containers just as well as those grown in the ground. Worms or caterpillars can be controlled with “BT” or by manually picking them off and giving them the “sole” treatment. Aphids can be controlled by daily spraying with water, washing them off the plants CAUTION The container gardener’s major problems are: 1. Over-watering or under-watering and salt buildup. 2. Letting containers get too hot from the sun’s rays or absorbed heat from pavement." From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net Wed Oct 8 18:19:57 2003 From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 11:19:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [Arid_gardener]Fall Herbs References: Message-ID: <001601c38dc8$d1abf8f0$c653530c@olin> ----- Original Message ----- > >From: garyb135@cox.net > >To: > >Greetings, > >What types of herbs do well in the climate around Phoenix? I am interested > >in planting herbs that will grow in the fall and winter, and year round if > >that is possible. I could use some tips on the planting and care of herbs > >as well. I live just south and east of the phoenix metro area. > >Thanks, > >Gary Many perennial herbs are grown from seeds or transplants as hardy annuals in October and November. Most of the usual, frost-tender herbs are planted in the early spring. The following list for October is taken from the Appendix in the book, "Desert Gardening for Beginners: How to Grow Vegetables, Flowers and Herbs in an Arid Climate". Information at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/mgpress/dgfb.htm The book contains the entire herb planting schedule as well as planting calendars for vegetables and flowers. Anise, Borage, Caraway, Catnip, Chervil, Chives, Cilantro(Coriander), Dill, Fennel, Oct-Jan, Garlic Chives, Horehound, Lavender, Lemon Balm, Marjoram, Mint, Oregano, Parsley, Rosemary, Sage, Salad Burnet, Santolina, Winter Savory, Scented Geraniums, Thyme, Yarrow. I am not an herb expert but I grow quite a few among vegetables with good success by following the planting calendar. Olin October Herb Planting Calendar From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net Wed Oct 8 18:36:25 2003 From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 11:36:25 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [Arid_gardener]Rabbit-Proof Plants References: <200310011821.h91ILZQ4026283@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <004501c38dcb$1a47daa0$c653530c@olin> The only sure way is to put a 2-foot chicken wire fence, tight to the ground or buried a few inches, around the garden. I have heard they can jump over a 2-foot fence; jack rabbits certainly can but cottontails are less likely to jump that high. Rabbits will burrow under the fence once they have tasted the plants and know where they are but won't (usually) if they have never sampled the plants. If practical, container plants could be placed too high for the rabbits to reach. Repellents like chile pepper spray and blood meal work to some extent but need to be renewed afar irrigating. Olin Miller ----- Original Message ----- From: > I would like to plant vegetables, flowers and herbs both in pots and in plots of garden that rabbits will not eat. Do you have any suggestions? Thank You. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Oct 8 20:26:55 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 08 Oct 2003 20:26:55 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Nightshade Vegetables Message-ID: Potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, tobacco others: sacred datura/jimson weed, petunias, nierembergia, butterfly flower(Schizanthus) The nightshade family (Solanaceae) includes about 2000 species of herbs, shrubs, trees and vines. In addition to many ornamentals, the family abounds in plants with medicinal or poisonous properties, and the potato, tomato, eggplant, peppers, tobacco and others. (from Hortus). Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Jim Tinnell" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Nightshade Vegetables >Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2003 22:01:15 -0700 > >To Whom It May Concern, > >What fruits and vegetables are in the nightshade family? My doctor believes >that my wife and I are allergic to these foods, so I need a more >comprehensive list of foods to avoid. > >Thank you, > >Jim Tinnell _________________________________________________________________ Instant message during games with MSN Messenger 6.0. Download it now FREE! http://msnmessenger-download.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Oct 8 20:15:35 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 08 Oct 2003 20:15:35 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] lime tree, leaves curling Message-ID: The curling leaves sound like a symptom of water stress and that may be what is happening since it went a bit long between waterings. If you haven't deep-watered it yet, I would do that and see if it responds. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: jonadels@netscape.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2003 21:03:34 -0700 (MST) > >I have a 5 year old miniature mexican lime tree that is bearing fruit and >was doing quite well until 3 days ago. Since then, almost all of the leaves >have curled into cigar-like tubes over the entire plant, and the whole tree >is drooping. There is no discoloration of the leaves, and I can see no >evidence of any spots or insects on the leaves. I did let it go a little >longer bewteen waterings, but I've done this before, and at most it results >in dropping of yellowing leaves. Is there anything I can do to save this >poor tree? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Instant message with integrated webcam using MSN Messenger 6.0. Try it now FREE! http://msnmessenger-download.com From BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu Wed Oct 8 17:32:22 2003 From: BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Wed, 08 Oct 2003 10:32:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] website updates on West Nile Virus in Arizona. Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20031008103145.047292b0@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_11215707==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed >Peder Cuneo has provided us with a website that has updates on the West >Nile Virus in Arizona. It can be found >at: http://www.hs.state.az.us/phs/oids/vector/wnv_update.htm. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert. "The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona." ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ --=====================_11215707==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
Peder Cuneo has provided us with a website that has updates on the West
Nile Virus in Arizona.  It can be found
at:  http://www.hs.state.az.us/phs/oids/vector/wnv_update.htm.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ  85040-8807

Phone:  (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax:  (602) 470-8092
email:  BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/
http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens

Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program
To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert.

"The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona."
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


--=====================_11215707==_.ALT-- From rodmcq6@highstream.net Wed Oct 8 23:23:56 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 16:23:56 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] MESQUITE TREES with mistletoe infection References: <11a.291e4866.2cb10728@aol.com> Message-ID: <008201c38df3$40b244a0$d531db43@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_007F_01C38DB8.926CAB40 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Remove the mistletoe infected branches one foot below the infection in = the direction of the trunk. Break off flower stalks before they produce = seeds. Prune as new infections appear. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From: JJcsieger@aol.com=20 To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Saturday, October 04, 2003 10:33 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] MESQUITE TREES I am looking for any information about the removal or treatment of = mistle toe infected mesquite trees. any information about products to = treat the infection, or methods to effectively irradicate it. thank you. ------=_NextPart_000_007F_01C38DB8.926CAB40 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Remove the mistletoe infected branches one foot below the = infection in=20 the direction of the trunk. Break off flower stalks before they produce = seeds.=20 Prune as new infections appear.
 
Good luck.
 
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
 
Sent: Saturday, October 04, = 2003 10:33=20 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = MESQUITE=20 TREES

I am looking for any information about the removal or treatment = of mistle=20 toe infected mesquite trees. any information about products to treat = the=20 infection, or methods to effectively irradicate it. thank=20 you.
------=_NextPart_000_007F_01C38DB8.926CAB40-- From watsontl@mindspring.com Wed Oct 8 22:45:04 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (watsontl@mindspring.com) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 15:45:04 -0700 (GMT-07:00) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Marigolds and Nematodes Message-ID: <9263789.1065653170228.JavaMail.root@wamui03.slb.atl.earthlink.net> French marigolds are not a single type of marigold, but one of several horticultural catagories marigolds are broken down into. So you won't find a packet of seeds simply labeled French marigold. You might, however, find some that, in the fine print, describe the variety they contain to be "a French type" or words to that effect. There are a lot of varieties of French marigolds. Many of the marigolds sold in nurseries are of the French type, so you might be able to get what you need by asking for such. There is a specific marigold sold by Seeds of Change (in New Mexico) that is grown as a cover crop to kill nematodes. The link below will lead you to it. I doubt you will find this one locally. These are big plants (up to 7 feet tall) so I don't know how this would work for your space situation. They are, however, and by all accounts, the most effective marigold for the job. http://www.seedsofchange.com/garden_center/product_details.asp?UID=2003100812281399&item_no=PS15493 Can you tell us what sort of plants were damaged by nematodes, and how you determined that these worms were the cause? Tom -----Original Message----- From: jjmollerus@juno.com Sent: Oct 8, 2003 7:36 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Where in the valley can I buy French marigold seeds? I have nematodes. Soil sterilization has helped but more need to be done. A local nursery recommended planting marigold seeds with my tomatoes etc. for nematode relief. Searching the web I found plenty of info regarding the use of marigolds for nematode control (ex. No. Carolina Dept of Agriculture at www.ncagr.com/agronomi/nnote1.htm). However, most of the articles point to the use of French or African marigolds. The African marigold is rather large and wouldn't fit the garden. I tried to find French marigold seeds however no luck at nurseries near me. The seed company catalogs don't seem to carry them. Can buy them on the web, however the outfits that seem to bee selling French marigold seeds are located in other countries. Therefore, my question about local seed sources. Thanks John Mollerus _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From rodmcq6@highstream.net Wed Oct 8 23:04:23 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 16:04:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palm Tree Watering and Care Message-ID: <007601c38df0$8568a100$d531db43@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0073_01C38DB5.D75E8A00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable University of Arizona Cooperative Extension publishes a bulletin on palm care titled ARIZONA LANDSCAPE PALMS available on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf This bulletin states that most species of palms should be deep watered = in summer every couple weeks. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0073_01C38DB5.D75E8A00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
University of Arizona Cooperative = Extension=20 publishes a bulletin on palm
care titled ARIZONA LANDSCAPE PALMS = available on=20 line at:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf
This bulletin states that most species of palms = should be=20 deep watered in summer every couple weeks.
 
Good luck.
 
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener 
------=_NextPart_000_0073_01C38DB5.D75E8A00-- From the_idoru@hotmail.com Wed Oct 8 23:02:16 2003 From: the_idoru@hotmail.com (the_idoru@hotmail.com) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 16:02:16 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310082302.h98N2GQ4003814@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a question about a weed infestation that I have in my front yard. There is a single type of weed that is growing in the yard, and it's so successful that it is killing whole patches of grass. I'll try to describe it: It's short, each plant is a single stem, maybe 5 inches long max. The stem and leaves are a reddish-green color. Each plant has numerous leaves that branch off in pairs directly from the stem. There are no branches off the stem otherwise. There are what appear to be small seed bundles along the stem, in between the leaf pairs. It grows only in direct sunlight. Basically, there are a million of these little buggers growing in the front yard, and they are so successful that despite their diminutive size they are taking over and killing the grass. They started growing this summer, and I tried pulling them, but inevitably I would miss a whole lot. I've tried a spray-on "kill the weeds not the grass" type herbicide that is supposedly good for killing broad-leaf plants, but this weed just laughed it off and thanked me for watering it. I'm sure a picture would help, and I will gladly take one upon request. Alternatively, I could stop by with a sample of the plant. Could I please get some advice as to what kind of steps I can take to kill this while hopefully not killing the grass? Worst case scenario, my front yard (it's small) goes desert landscape, but I need to know how to kill this thing in case it spreads to the back yard, which I can't turn desert. Thank you. From rodmcq6@highstream.net Wed Oct 8 23:43:38 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 16:43:38 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Italian Cypress Ailing References: <20031004171640.SWBH1644.fed1mtao04.cox.net@[68.2.168.205]> Message-ID: <009401c38df6$017ac480$d531db43@ibmbna6040> Mark, I would suspect spider mites even though you said that you did not see webs. Mites are very small and difficult to see. Hold a white sheet of paper under a branch as you shake it. You will be able to see the mites on the white paper. A strong spray of water will often dislodge the mites unless the infestion is bad. In this case use a miticide spray. I would not recommend applying fertilizer more then once a year. The Arizona Cypress is subject to injury from nitrogen and the Italian Cypress is the same genus. Good luck. Rod Mckusick Master Gardener ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Sarantos" To: Sent: Saturday, October 04, 2003 10:17 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] ....ailing Italian Cypress > > > Arid Gardener-- > My 15-year-old 20-foot-tall Italian Cypress are displaying unsettling > symptoms. The once spire-like columns are now droopy and random areas midway > up the tree are losing needles and turning brown. I've inspected the tree > and don't see any tell-tale 'webs' from mites. I water thoroughly once a > week (deep soaks) and have given them MiracleGro feeds once every 3 months. > What's wrong with my trees...hate to lose them. > > Mark > mark@sumdesign.com > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net Thu Oct 9 00:53:12 2003 From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 17:53:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200310081436.h98EaMQ4016497@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <002801c38dff$b96d22a0$1150530c@olin> I saw French marigold seeds at our local Home Depot today (NW Phoenix). Double blossoms - Ferry Morse. Our local Summer Winds nursery has 6 cell pony packs of French marigolds, many with 2 per cell. I always plant French among the vegetables, mainly for the color and aroma. I have never had a root knot nematode problem but have no hard evidence that marigolds had a role in that. As I understand the theory, the marigolds resist the root knot nematodes such that the population is reduced in the area where the marigolds are planted. Then a susceptible plant is grown in that area and the marigolds are planted somewhere else. This requires rigorous attention to crop rotation. You mentioned soil sterilization. Was that chemical or by solarization? Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > Where in the valley can I buy French marigold seeds? > I have nematodes. Soil sterilization has helped but more need to be done. A local nursery recommended planting marigold seeds with my tomatoes etc. for nematode relief. Searching the web I found plenty of info regarding the use of marigolds for nematode control (ex. No. Carolina Dept of Agriculture at www.ncagr.com/agronomi/nnote1.htm). However, most of the articles point to the use of French or African marigolds. The African marigold is rather large and wouldn't fit the garden. I tried to find French marigold seeds however no luck at nurseries near me. The seed company catalogs don't seem to carry them. Can buy them on the web, however the outfits that seem to bee selling French marigold seeds are located in other countries. Therefore, my question about local seed sources. > > Thanks > > John Mollerus > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From smhunter@cox.net Wed Oct 8 21:09:41 2003 From: smhunter@cox.net (Shirley) Date: Wed, 08 Oct 2003 14:09:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] az trees Dalbergia Sissoo Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20031008140925.00b1e008@ag.arizona.edu> I am trying to locate information on this particular species of tree. Cannot seem to locate it in your lists. Please advise if you have any info. Need to know if this tree is evergreen in the Phoenix area and how rapidly it grows? Is it recommended for yard planting in an irrigated situation and is it a 'messy' tree?. Thank You. Shirley From pleary6@cox.net Wed Oct 8 21:09:06 2003 From: pleary6@cox.net (Rick Leary) Date: Wed, 08 Oct 2003 14:09:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ocotillo Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20031008140847.01f086d8@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_26852531==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Hi! We planted Ocotillo several weeks ago and it still hasn't turned green with leaves. ? Any suggestions? Initially, we watered and then stopped. Help please. Thanks - Linda "Rick Leary" --=====================_26852531==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Hi!
 
We planted Ocotillo several weeks ago and it still hasn't turned green with leaves. ?
Any suggestions?
 
Initially, we watered and then stopped.
 
Help please.
 
Thanks - Linda
"Rick Leary" <pleary6@cox.net>
--=====================_26852531==_.ALT-- From je1s@msn.com Wed Oct 8 23:50:47 2003 From: je1s@msn.com (Jane Schoder) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 16:50:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pathology Lab Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0527_01C38DBC.52BB98E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hello Mr. McKusick, Thank you for the prompt response to my request for information about a = desert spoon plant and acacia tree. I have taken root and soil samples as you described. I have the mailing = address of the lab. Is there a fee schedule for lab analysis? Also, if the plant or a tree were subjected to such acts as gasoline = being poured on the plant/ soil around the trunk, would a lab analysis = indicate this condition? Is there a certain length of time beyond which = analysis would not be feasible or would the roots retain the chemicals? Thank you for your attention to this concern. ------=_NextPart_000_0527_01C38DBC.52BB98E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hello = Mr.=20 McKusick,
Thank = you for the=20 prompt response to my request for information about a desert spoon plant = and=20 acacia tree.
I have taken root and soil = samples as you=20 described. I have the mailing address of the lab.
Is there a fee schedule for = lab=20 analysis?
Also, if the plant or a tree = were=20 subjected to such acts as gasoline being poured on the plant/ soil = around the=20 trunk, would a lab analysis indicate this condition? Is there a certain = length=20 of time beyond which analysis would not be feasible or would the roots = retain=20 the chemicals?
 
Thank you for your attention = to this=20 concern.
 
------=_NextPart_000_0527_01C38DBC.52BB98E0-- From rodmcq6@highstream.net Wed Oct 8 23:54:22 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 16:54:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Killing bermuda grass References: <008b01c38ba4$fc8aad30$9008570c@tom> Message-ID: <009c01c38df7$80d09e20$d531db43@ibmbna6040> Tom, Killing bermuda grass in your Jasmine bed without killing the jasmine can be accomplished by using an herbicide that has the chemical Flazifop. Be sure to read the instructions. One such herbicide is called "Grass be Gone", There are others on the market. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener Blount" To: Sent: Sunday, October 05, 2003 5:45 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Killing bermuda grass > Can you help me . I have a bed of Asian Jasmine which Bermuda grass is > invading. Can I kill the Bermuda without killing the Jasmine? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rodmcq6@highstream.net Thu Oct 9 00:20:22 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 17:20:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sick Brazillian Pepper Tree References: <20031005065926.40953.qmail@web40506.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <00a701c38dfb$226a37c0$d531db43@ibmbna6040> Bert, The Brazilian Pepper tree is very susceptable to Texas Root Rot ( cotton rot) and particularly if over watered. TRR doesn't always affect all the roots of the tree so you may have sent in to the pathologist roots that were not infected. If the Texas Root Rot fungi are still in the soil they will also attack the tree that is starting to grow and the fungi is active during hot weather. Starting a tree from the growth on an existing stump is not a recommended way to start a tree although I have done it several times. If you want a multiple trunk tree prune off all but a few of the most vigorous shoots. It will be a continuous process of keeping the growth that you do not want removed. Sorry but I would have to guess how long it would take to grow to ten feet tall. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bertrand Kovac" To: Sent: Saturday, October 04, 2003 11:59 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sick Brazillian Pepper Tree > I had a mature pepper tree with multiple trunks of 6 > to 8 inch diameter. Every August it would lose one or > two branches but this year the whole tree turned > brown. > > The arborist I hired offered Cotton Rot as a possible > explanation and cut the tree back to one foot stumps. > > I sent root samples to the Tucson lab' but the plant > pathologist could not identify any pathogen. The tree > was growing in an area where it is very difficult to > control water; next to a golf course. It was not > receiving the same deep waterings that I apply to my > citrus. To water it properly in the future, I will > have to use ahose. Everything else on my property is > on a sprinkler timer. > > During the six weeks since the tree was drastically > cut back, the stumps have produced a luxurious growth > of leafy branches. The new growth is very vigorous. > > Two questions: > > How best to nurture the new growth? > > How long will it take to reach a ten foot height? > > Thanks in advance. > > Bert Keates > > > > ===== > Bertrand Kovac > > __________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search > http://shopping.yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From cstephens@infinet-is.com Thu Oct 9 03:47:46 2003 From: cstephens@infinet-is.com (Charles Stephens) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 20:47:46 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Marigolds and Nematodes References: <9263789.1065653170228.JavaMail.root@wamui03.slb.atl.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <004401c38e18$1bb1c3e0$23da13d8@default> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0041_01C38DDD.6E0C6220 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I too have done some online research on marigolds and nematodes and = have seen some claims, from apparently credible sources, similar to = those that John mentions, and they have all specified French marigolds. = I have also discussed this with Dr. Mary Olsen, the U. of A. Extension = Plant Pathologist. Mary says that while the nematodes won't bother = marigolds, the marigolds won't protect susceptible plants. I've also = heard pretty much the same thing from Terry Mikel, a U.of A. Cooperative = Extension Commercial Horticulture Agent. I can only conclude that the = "experts" disagree on this subject. I would certainly take claims made = by seed vendors with a grain of salt. =20 French marigolds, Tagetes patula, are fairly easy to find but, there are = many different cultivars around. I have seen even seeds at Wal-Mart. = Park Seed is one of several online companies that have them. Most of the = seed packets prominently display the cultivar (variety) name only, you = must read the fine print. There are also several other species of = Tagetes, one of which is the one that Tom mentioned. Tomato plant labels and seed packets may show any or all of the letters = VFTN. A variety with the N is nematode resistant, the V, F and T refer = to resistance to Verticillium wilt, Fusarium wilt and Tobacco mosaic = virus. I have had fairly good luck this year with Celebrity and Champion = tomatoes, both of which are nematode resistant and were suggested by Dr. = Mike McClure, U. of A Nematologist. It is also a good idea to get your = plants into the ground early in the season while the soil is still cool = and the nematodes aren't too active. You will may have to provide some = frost protection. Soil solarization, three year rotation with nonsusceptible crops and = resistant varieties is the most effective strategy that I've been able = to find. If you find some other practical solution, I would be very = interested to hear about it! Best of luck, Charlie, MG, Phx ----- Original Message -----=20 From: watsontl@mindspring.com=20 To: jjmollerus@juno.com ; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2003 3:45 PM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Marigolds and Nematodes French marigolds are not a single type of marigold, but one of several horticultural catagories marigolds are broken down into. So you = won't find a packet of seeds simply labeled French marigold. You might, however, = find some that, in the fine print, describe the variety they contain to be "a = French type" or words to that effect. There are a lot of varieties of French = marigolds. Many of the marigolds sold in nurseries are of the French = type, so you might be able to get what you need by asking for such. There is a specific marigold sold by Seeds of Change (in New Mexico) = that is grown as a cover crop to kill nematodes. The link below will = lead you to it. I doubt you will find this one locally. These are = big plants (up to 7 feet tall) so I don't know how this would work for = your space situation. They are, however, and by all accounts, the most = effective marigold for the job. = http://www.seedsofchange.com/garden_center/product_details.asp?UID=3D2003= 100812281399&item_no=3DPS15493 Can you tell us what sort of plants were damaged by nematodes, and how = you determined that these worms were the cause? Tom -----Original Message----- From: jjmollerus@juno.com Sent: Oct 8, 2003 7:36 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Where in the valley can I buy French marigold seeds? I have nematodes. Soil sterilization has helped but more need to be = done. A local nursery recommended planting marigold seeds with my = tomatoes etc. for nematode relief. Searching the web I found plenty of = info regarding the use of marigolds for nematode control (ex. No. = Carolina Dept of Agriculture at www.ncagr.com/agronomi/nnote1.htm). = However, most of the articles point to the use of French or African = marigolds. The African marigold is rather large and wouldn't fit the = garden. I tried to find French marigold seeds however no luck at = nurseries near me. The seed company catalogs don't seem to carry them. = Can buy them on the web, however the outfits that seem to bee selling = French marigold seeds are located in other countries. Therefore, my = question about local seed sources. Thanks John Mollerus _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener ------=_NextPart_000_0041_01C38DDD.6E0C6220 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I too have done some online research on marigolds and nematodes and = have=20 seen some claims, from apparently credible sources, similar to those = that John=20 mentions, and they have all specified  French marigolds. I have = also=20 discussed this with Dr. Mary Olsen, the U. of A. Extension Plant = Pathologist.=20 Mary says that while the nematodes won't bother marigolds, the marigolds = won't=20 protect susceptible plants. I've also heard pretty much the same thing = from=20 Terry Mikel, a U.of A. Cooperative Extension Commercial Horticulture = Agent. I=20 can only conclude that the "experts" disagree on this subject. I would = certainly=20 take claims made by seed vendors with a grain of salt.
 
French marigolds, Tagetes patula, are fairly easy to find = but,=20 there are many different cultivars around. I have seen even seeds at=20 Wal-Mart.  Park Seed is one of several online companies that have = them.=20 Most of the seed packets prominently display the cultivar (variety) name = only,=20 you must read the fine print. There are also several other species = of =20 Tagetes, one of which is the one that Tom mentioned.
 
Tomato plant labels and seed packets may show any or all of the = letters=20 VFTN. A variety with the N is nematode resistant, the V, F and T refer = to=20 resistance to Verticillium wilt, Fusarium wilt and Tobacco mosaic virus. = I have=20 had fairly good luck this year with Celebrity and Champion tomatoes, = both of=20 which are nematode resistant and were suggested by Dr. Mike McClure, U. = of A=20 Nematologist. It is also a good idea to get your plants into the ground = early in=20 the season while the soil is still cool and the nematodes aren't too = active. You=20 will may have to provide some frost protection.
 
Soil solarization, three year rotation with nonsusceptible crops = and=20 resistant varieties is the most effective strategy that I've been able = to find.=20 If you find some other practical solution, I would be very interested to = hear=20 about it!
 
Best of luck,
Charlie, MG, Phx
 
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 watsontl@mindspring.com
To: jjmollerus@juno.com ; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu =
Sent: Wednesday, October 08, = 2003 3:45=20 PM
Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] = Marigolds=20 and Nematodes

French marigolds are not a single type of marigold, but = one of=20 several
horticultural catagories marigolds are broken down=20 into.   So you won't find a
packet of seeds simply = labeled French=20 marigold.   You might, however, find some
that, in the = fine=20 print, describe the variety they contain to be "a French
type" or = words to=20 that effect.  There are a lot of varieties of French=20 marigolds.   Many of the marigolds sold in nurseries are of = the=20 French type, so you might  be able to get what you need by asking = for=20 such.

There is a specific marigold sold by Seeds of Change (in = New=20 Mexico) that is grown as a cover crop to kill nematodes.   = The link=20 below will lead you to it.   I doubt you will find this one=20 locally.   These are big plants (up to 7 feet tall) so I = don't know=20 how this would work for your space situation.   They are, = however,=20 and by all accounts, the most effective marigold for the = job.

http://www.seedsofchange.com/= garden_center/product_details.asp?UID=3D2003100812281399&item_no=3DPS= 15493

Can=20 you tell us what sort of plants were damaged by nematodes, and how=20 you
determined that these worms were the=20 cause?

Tom


-----Original Message-----
From: jjmollerus@juno.com
Sent: = Oct 8, 2003=20 7:36 AM
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=
Subject:=20 [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page

Where in the = valley=20 can I buy French marigold seeds?

I have nematodes. Soil = sterilization=20 has helped but more need to be done.  A local nursery recommended = planting marigold seeds with my tomatoes etc. for nematode = relief. =20 Searching the web I found plenty of info regarding the use of = marigolds for=20 nematode control (ex. No. Carolina Dept of Agriculture at www.ncagr.com/agronomi/= nnote1.htm). =20 However, most of the articles point to the use of French or African=20 marigolds.  The African marigold is rather large and wouldn't fit = the=20 garden.  I tried to find French marigold seeds however no luck at = nurseries near me.  The seed company catalogs don't seem to carry = them.  Can buy them on the web, however the outfits that seem to = bee=20 selling French marigold seeds are located in other countries.  = Therefore,=20 my question about local seed sources.

Thanks

John=20 = Mollerus

_______________________________________________
Arid_g= ardener=20 mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu=
http://Ag.A= rizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener

____________________= ___________________________
Arid_gardener=20 mailing list
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------=_NextPart_000_0041_01C38DDD.6E0C6220-- From cstephens@infinet-is.com Thu Oct 9 04:27:28 2003 From: cstephens@infinet-is.com (Charles Stephens) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 21:27:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sick Brazillian Pepper Tree References: <20031005065926.40953.qmail@web40506.mail.yahoo.com> <00a701c38dfb$226a37c0$d531db43@ibmbna6040> Message-ID: <005801c38e1d$a7201800$23da13d8@default> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0055_01C38DE2.F9825760 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Terry Mikel, the Commercial Horticulture Agent in the Maricopa County = Cooperative Extension Office, discussed the problem of sick or dieing = Brazilian pepper trees at this Master Gardener update this morning. The problem has been very common in the valley lately and is usually = caused by a combination of our current drought and the soil mix in which = the tree was originally grown. Essentially all of the pepper trees sold in this area are grown in more = humid areas of California and the growers there use a mix which is = nearly all peat moss and vermiculite. This mixture is hydrophobic i.e. = repels water if allowed to dry and becomes extremely difficult to rewet = even when the surrounding soil is quite moist. One can check for this = problem by examining the soil in the area which was in the original = container. If this was the problem, sprinkling or drip irrigation is = unlikely to change the situation. You must use a hose and make sure that = the original root ball is soaked when watering until you are sure that = the tree has adequate roots grown into the native soil. Charlie Stephens Master Gardener Phoenix ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Rod=20 To: Bertrand Kovac=20 Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2003 5:20 PM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Sick Brazillian Pepper Tree Bert, The Brazilian Pepper tree is very susceptable to Texas Root Rot ( = cotton rot) and particularly if over watered. TRR doesn't always affect all = the roots of the tree so you may have sent in to the pathologist roots = that were not infected. If the Texas Root Rot fungi are still in the soil they will also = attack the tree that is starting to grow and the fungi is active during hot = weather. Starting a tree from the growth on an existing stump is not a = recommended way to start a tree although I have done it several times. If you want a multiple trunk tree prune off all but a few of the most vigorous shoots. It will be a continuous process of keeping the growth = that you do not want removed. Sorry but I would have to guess how long it would take to grow to ten = feet tall. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bertrand Kovac"