From ShySky7144@aol.com Wed Oct 1 01:34:57 2003 From: ShySky7144@aol.com (ShySky7144@aol.com) Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 21:34:57 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] A terrible problem Message-ID: <50.22c680b4.2cab8941@aol.com> --part1_50.22c680b4.2cab8941_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Rod, while searching the Internet for a solution to my awful problem, I foun= d=20 a message from you to another person about the use of Prometon.=A0 Long stor= y=20 short, that product (Spectracide Total Vegetation Killer) got sprayed on my=20 compete lawn; what a nightmare.=A0 I have been given two possible remedies.= =A0 One is=20 to remove six to seven inches of soil and dispose of it properly; then bring= =20 in new soil and plant grass seed or sod.=A0 This is a very expensive endeavo= r,=20 for sure.=A0 It is especially problematic or perhaps close to impossible in=20= my=20 back yard, as the houses are very close together which affords little access= to=20 my back yard.=A0 The other suggested remedy is to till flowable charcoal int= o=20 the soil, water it immediately, wait a few days and then till again, then wa= it=20 three to four weeks, bring in new soil, till again, and then plant grass see= d=20 or soil.=A0 Certainly, the latter remedy would be easier and cheaper than th= e=20 first.=A0 Do you think either would work?=A0 I cannot imagine living with lo= oking at=20 nothing growing in my back and front yards for a year or more.=A0 I would=20 appreciate any help that you can give me, including any other resources you=20= might=20 suggest. Thank you very much.=A0 If possible, please respond to me directly without=20 publishing this email, or publish it without my email address. Leslie --part1_50.22c680b4.2cab8941_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Rod, while se= arching the Internet for a solution to my awful problem, I found a message f= rom you to another person about the use of Prometon.=A0 Long story short, th= at product (Spectracide Total Vegetation Killer) got sprayed on my compete l= awn; what a nightmare.=A0 I have been given two possible remedies.=A0 One is= to remove six to seven inches of soil and dispose of it properly; then brin= g in new soil and plant grass seed or sod.=A0 This is a very expensive endea= vor, for sure.=A0 It is especially problematic or perhaps close to impossibl= e in my back yard, as the houses are very close together which affords littl= e access to my back yard.=A0 The other suggested remedy is to till flowable=20= charcoal into the soil, water it immediately, wait a few days and then till=20= again, then wait three to four weeks, bring in new soil, till again, and the= n plant grass seed or soil.=A0 Certainly, the latter remedy would be easier=20= and cheaper than the first.=A0 Do you think either would work?=A0 I cannot i= magine living with looking at nothing growing in my back and front yards for= a year or more.=A0 I would appreciate any help that you can give me, includ= ing any other resources you might suggest.

Thank you very much.=A0 If possible, please respond to me directly without p= ublishing this email, or publish it without my email address.

Leslie
--part1_50.22c680b4.2cab8941_boundary-- From jloj@earthlink.net Wed Oct 1 01:43:49 2003 From: jloj@earthlink.net (Janet Jacobson) Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 20:43:49 -0500 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Red Yucca Message-ID: <5.1.1.6.2.20030930204115.00a5a7e0@pop.earthlink.net> We have 20+ Red Yuccas bordering our front yard in the Austin, TX area that have been gnawed badly by the local white-tail deer population this summer. The plants are also overgrown with some type of weed. Can I cut the yuccas back for the winter? Will they grow back next spring if I do so? Thanks, Janet Jacobson From mmjrwin@cox.net Wed Oct 1 22:02:00 2003 From: mmjrwin@cox.net (mmjrwin@cox.net) Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 15:02:00 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310012202.h91M20Q4013986@Ag.arizona.edu> Pecan tree My tree is about 15 years old. I gave it zinc this spring and it has looked great. Today I notice sap on the leaves for the first time this year. Does it need more Zinc or is it just reacting to the late summer heat? I live in Phoenix, and the tree is holding te best crop of nuts ever. Thanks, Jim Winston From rodmcq6@highstream.net Wed Oct 1 22:04:31 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 15:04:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] A terrible problem References: <50.22c680b4.2cab8941@aol.com> Message-ID: <008401c38868$989fed60$ca31db43@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_006F_01C3882D.5112D380 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Leslie, The chemical Promton is as it is advertised, a total vegetation killer. = I doubt that your first option of removing the soil entirely will do the = job. As for the second option, that of using charcoal, I've not had = experience nor have I heard of anyone who has used charcoal to remove = an unwanted chemical from the soil. My suggestion is to contact the manufacturer of Prompton telling them of = your problem and ask them how to solve the problem. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ----- Original Message -----=20 From: ShySky7144@aol.com=20 To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2003 6:34 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] A terrible problem Rod, while searching the Internet for a solution to my awful problem, = I found a message from you to another person about the use of Prometon. = Long story short, that product (Spectracide Total Vegetation Killer) got = sprayed on my compete lawn; what a nightmare. I have been given two = possible remedies. One is to remove six to seven inches of soil and = dispose of it properly; then bring in new soil and plant grass seed or = sod. This is a very expensive endeavor, for sure. It is especially = problematic or perhaps close to impossible in my back yard, as the = houses are very close together which affords little access to my back = yard. The other suggested remedy is to till flowable charcoal into the = soil, water it immediately, wait a few days and then till again, then = wait three to four weeks, bring in new soil, till again, and then plant = grass seed or soil. Certainly, the latter remedy would be easier and = cheaper than the first. Do you think either would work? I cannot = imagine living with looking at nothing growing in my back and front = yards for a year or more. I would appreciate any help that you can give = me, including any other resources you might suggest. Thank you very much. If possible, please respond to me directly = without publishing this email, or publish it without my email address. Leslie ------=_NextPart_000_006F_01C3882D.5112D380 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Leslie,

The chemical Promton is as it is advertised, a total = vegetation killer. I doubt that your first option of removing the soil = entirely=20 will do the job. As for the second option, that of using charcoal, I've = not had=20 experience nor have I heard of anyone who has used charcoal = to remove=20 an unwanted chemical from the soil.

My suggestion is to contact the manufacturer of = Prompton=20 telling them of your problem and ask them how to solve the = problem.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick

Master Gardener

----- Original Message -----

From:=20 ShySky7144@aol.com

To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= =20

Sent: Tuesday, September 30, = 2003 6:34=20 PM

Subject: [Arid_gardener] A = terrible=20 problem

Rod, while searching the Internet for a solution to = my awful=20 problem, I found a message from you to another person about the use of = Prometon. Long story short, that product (Spectracide Total = Vegetation=20 Killer) got sprayed on my compete lawn; what a nightmare. I have = been=20 given two possible remedies. One is to remove six to seven = inches of=20 soil and dispose of it properly; then bring in new soil and plant = grass seed=20 or sod. This is a very expensive endeavor, for sure. It is = especially problematic or perhaps close to impossible in my back yard, = as the=20 houses are very close together which affords little access to my back=20 yard. The other suggested remedy is to till flowable charcoal = into the=20 soil, water it immediately, wait a few days and then till again, then = wait=20 three to four weeks, bring in new soil, till again, and then plant = grass seed=20 or soil. Certainly, the latter remedy would be easier and = cheaper than=20 the first. Do you think either would work? I cannot = imagine living=20 with looking at nothing growing in my back and front yards for a year = or=20 more. I would appreciate any help that you can give me, = including any=20 other resources you might suggest.

Thank you very much. = If=20 possible, please respond to me directly without publishing this email, = or=20 publish it without my email address.

Leslie
------=_NextPart_000_006F_01C3882D.5112D380-- From pwolterb@Ag.arizona.edu Wed Oct 1 14:09:43 2003 From: pwolterb@Ag.arizona.edu (Paul Wolterbeek) Date: Wed, 01 Oct 2003 07:09:43 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] announcement? Message-ID: <3.0.6.32.20031001070943.008cbe20@ag.arizona.edu> Master Gardeners: Boyce Thompson Arboretum wants you! Are you available to put in a weekend morning or afternoon during the Fall Plant Sale which is held from Oct. 10-27? Do you have a Friday, Saturday or Sunday to help assist customers during this important annual fundraiser at Boyce Thompson Arboretum? Duties range from answering general plant queries and assisting customers to helping load purchases. If you're available please contact the volunteer coordinator with an email or by phone 520-689-2723 . The Arboretum is located at highway 60 milepost #223, just three miles west of Superior (or 45 minutes east of Mesa) via the Superstition Freeway. For more information click on: http://arboretum.ag.arizona.edu/events/plantsale.html From gwright@Ag.arizona.edu Wed Oct 1 15:50:27 2003 From: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu (Glenn C. Wright) Date: Wed, 01 Oct 2003 08:50:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Recommended grapefruits Message-ID: <5.1.1.6.2.20031001084144.03184760@ag.arizona.edu> Dear JohnnieB: Grapefruit recommended for Arizona include 'White Marsh', 'Pink Marsh', 'Redblush', 'Ruby Red', 'Rio Red' and 'Flame'. We do not recommend 'Star Ruby'. You might also consider 'Oro Blanco' and 'Melogold', both white-fleshed grapefruit x pummelo hybrids. Best regards, GCW Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D. Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist University of Arizona - Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center 2186 W. County 15th Street Somerton, AZ 85350 Phone: 928-726-0458 FAX: 928-726-1363 e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu From MRDUCKSMRNOT41@MSN.COM Thu Oct 2 05:26:55 2003 From: MRDUCKSMRNOT41@MSN.COM (MRDUCKSMRNOT41@MSN.COM) Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 22:26:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310020526.h925QsQ4013232@Ag.arizona.edu> Mature Date Palms.Can you "skin" them without harming them? From cstephens@infinet-is.com Wed Oct 1 16:43:03 2003 From: cstephens@infinet-is.com (Charles Stephens) Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 09:43:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: reese mesquite References: Message-ID: <000901c3883b$15f79160$a3da13d8@default> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01C38800.687CE920 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Din, Sorry, but I never heard of the "Reese Mesquite". Maybe somone else on = the Arid_Gardener list can help you. I'll forward your message. Charlie ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Din Din=20 To: cstephens@infinet-is.com=20 Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2003 6:59 PM Subject: reese mesquite I have heard of a hybrid mesquite called 'Reese' or something. What can you tell me about this? How evergreen is it? How fast = growing? Appearance? How can I get one? Thanks for your help. Din in Tucson, AZ -------------------------------------------------------------------------= ----- Get more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : = http://explorer.msn.com ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01C38800.687CE920 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Din,

Sorry, but I never heard of = the "Reese=20 Mesquite". Maybe somone else on the Arid_Gardener list can help you. = I'll=20 forward your message.

Charlie

----- Original Message -----

From:=20 Din Din =

To: cstephens@infinet-is.com

Sent: Tuesday, September 30, = 2003 6:59=20 PM

Subject: reese mesquite

I have heard of a hybrid mesquite called 'Reese' or = something.

What can you tell me about this? How evergreen is it? = How=20 fast growing? Appearance? How can I get one?

Thanks for your help.

Din in Tucson, AZ

Get more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : http://explorer.msn.com

------=_NextPart_000_0006_01C38800.687CE920-- From kalldg@aol.com Wed Oct 1 18:21:35 2003 From: kalldg@aol.com (kalldg@aol.com) Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 11:21:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310011821.h91ILZQ4026283@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like to plant vegetables, flowers and herbs both in pots and in plots of garden that rabbits will not eat. Do you have any suggestions? Thank You. From kyoung@Ag.arizona.edu Wed Oct 1 16:22:45 2003 From: kyoung@Ag.arizona.edu (Kelly Young) Date: Wed, 01 Oct 2003 09:22:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fall Garden Festival Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20031001091908.01c37e38@cals.arizona.edu> --=====================_6347066==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Garden Festival If you want to give your landscape and gardens a face-lift and don't know where to start, check out the co-sponsored Maricopa County Master Gardeners/Metro Tech High School Garden Festival. The Festival is set for Saturday, October 25, at Metro Tech High School, 19th Avenue and Thomas Road, Phoenix. Refresh your garden for fall. Come select from hundreds of varieties of plants at unbelievably low prices! Shop the Fall Garden Rummage Sale. Presentations by master gardeners in the areas of gardening, composting, recycling, and water gardens. Visit with representatives of local garden clubs. Check out garden-related projects by students at Metro Tech High School or visit many other exhibitor booths featuring holiday arts and crafts, gardening books, seeds and fresh produce. A little something for everyone, bring the family and your friends. DETAILS: 8:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. Saturday, October 25, 2003. Free Admission. For more, call 602-470-1556, ext. 1017 or visit http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/calendar/fallgdnf.htm. Kelly Young Program Coordinator, Urban Horticulture The University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone (602) 470-8086 ext. 311 Fax (602) 470-8092 kyoung@ag.arizona.edu The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona. --=====================_6347066==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Garden Festival

If you want to give your landscape and gardens a face-lift and don�t know where to start, check out the co-sponsored Maricopa County Master Gardeners/Metro Tech High School Garden Festival. The Festival is set for Saturday, October 25, at Metro Tech High School, 19th Avenue and Thomas Road, Phoenix.

Refresh your garden for fall. Come select from hundreds of varieties of plants at unbelievably low prices! Shop the Fall Garden Rummage Sale. Presentations by master gardeners in the areas of gardening, composting, recycling, and water gardens. Visit with representatives of local garden clubs. Check out garden-related projects by students at Metro Tech High School or visit many other exhibitor booths featuring holiday arts and crafts, gardening books, seeds and fresh produce. A little something for everyone, bring the family and your friends.

DETAILS: 8:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. Saturday, October 25, 2003. Free Admission. For more, call 602-470-1556, ext. 1017 or visit http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/calendar/fallgdnf.htm.

Kelly Young

Program Coordinator, Urban Horticulture

The University of Arizona

Maricopa County Cooperative Extension

4341 E. Broadway Rd.

Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807

Phone (602) 470-8086 ext. 311

Fax (602) 470-8092

kyoung@ag.arizona.edu

The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona.

--=====================_6347066==_.ALT-- From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net Wed Oct 1 23:45:32 2003 From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 16:45:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sweet Potato HArvest References: <200309302120.h8ULKeA1029564@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <00a201c38878$dd5c69a0$2b50530c@olin> The usual recommendation one hears is to harvest after the leaves begin to die back, usually after a frost. Problem is, the leaves may not die back here and we may not get a frost so I recommend harvesting when they are big enough to eat. According to my notes, I usually harvest about November 1 (Phoenix area) but I did not grow any this year so I can't give you a better answer. Back in 2001, I grew the largest one I have ever seen and it was harvested just before a garden show on November 10. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > My son took a yam or sweet potato that had sprouted and planted it in my garden. The garden is now being over run by the plant. I am new to growing yams and am wondering how I tell when they are ready to harvest and if there is anything special I should be doing to the plant. From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net Wed Oct 1 23:32:20 2003 From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 16:32:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Real Soil Probe References: <200309302225.h8UMPEA1013208@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <00a101c38878$dc67f780$2b50530c@olin> I purchased mine from A.M. Leonard's catalog. Also available on line at http://www.amleo.com/ Search for "soil probe" or "soil sampler". Mine is the 21 inch probe but there is also a 36 inch probe. Very useful device. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2003 3:25 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Does anyone know where I can purchase a soil probe in the Phoenix area? I just want to test the ground to see how often I need to deep water trees. I have heard of the suggestion of using rebar, however, it's for a church and I was asked to purchase a real one. From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net Wed Oct 1 23:54:21 2003 From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 16:54:21 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Seaons for Allergenic Plants in AZ References: <200309292329.h8TNTFA1027299@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <00a301c38878$de528970$2b50530c@olin> There is a list at http://www.peds.arizona.edu/allergyimmunology/southwest/grass_weeds/commongrass.html I don't know if dogs and cats would have the same sensitivities as humans. A google search using <"allergenic plants" +arizona> will bring up several other sites. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > I treat a lot of dogs and cats with pollen allergies. Is there any source where I can find pollenating seasons for the weeds, trees and shrubs indigenous to the Phoenix valley area > Thanks for your immediate reply > Leland Veith From Jonathan Kandell" <00a201c38878$dd5c69a0$2b50530c@olin> Message-ID: <005901c388f7$1cff5120$ace08044@oemcomputer> in tucson about a month before thanksgiving is about right... then "cured" three weeks in your house. when leaves start to yellow is about right, or when you start to see flowers, or when they die back. you can check out the size by carefully digging. ----- Original Message ----- From: "olin" To: ; Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2003 4:45 PM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Sweet Potato HArvest > The usual recommendation one hears is to harvest after the leaves begin > to die back, usually after a frost. Problem is, the leaves may not die > back here and we may not get a frost so I recommend harvesting when they > are big enough to eat. According to my notes, I usually harvest about > November 1 (Phoenix area) but I did not grow any this year so I can't > give you a better answer. Back in 2001, I grew the largest one I have > ever seen and it was harvested just before a garden show on November 10. > Olin > > ----- Original Message ----- From: > > My son took a yam or sweet potato that had sprouted and planted it in > my garden. The garden is now being over run by the plant. I am new to > growing yams and am wondering how I tell when they are ready to harvest > and if there is anything special I should be doing to the plant. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From kelli.m.riley@wachoviasec.com Thu Oct 2 17:39:28 2003 From: kelli.m.riley@wachoviasec.com (kelli.m.riley@wachoviasec.com) Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2003 10:39:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310021739.h92HdSQ4029349@Ag.arizona.edu> I have mature (8 yr) oleanders that are one by one dying (they are planted in a row)the leaves turn brown and fall off-- I have replanted 3 of them and they don't appear to be progressing very well. My landscaper said he didn't really know what was causing it but treated the ground for a fungus--the condition is continuing passing one plant further down the line--the next guy said it is a bug carried by birds. I don't know what to do--I thought it was hard to kill these plants--Can you help? Thanks From garyb135@cox.net Fri Oct 3 21:51:09 2003 From: garyb135@cox.net (garyb135@cox.net) Date: Fri, 3 Oct 2003 14:51:09 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310032151.h93Lp9Q4016082@Ag.arizona.edu> Greetings, What types of herbs do well in the climate around Phoenix? I am interested in planting herbs that will grow in the fall and winter, and year round if that is possible. I could use some tips on the planting and care of herbs as well. I live just south and east of the phoenix metro area. Thanks, Gary From rdburrow@prodigy.net Fri Oct 3 18:25:41 2003 From: rdburrow@prodigy.net (rdburrow@prodigy.net) Date: Fri, 3 Oct 2003 11:25:41 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310031825.h93IPfQ4029755@Ag.arizona.edu> I have small (no larger than 1")mound of dirt all through my garden. The mounds are very granular in appearance, but do not look anything like regular ant hills. Can you tell me what's going on? From arizbunzer@msn.com Fri Oct 3 22:33:06 2003 From: arizbunzer@msn.com (arizbunzer@msn.com) Date: Fri, 3 Oct 2003 15:33:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310032233.h93MX6Q4023861@Ag.arizona.edu> I am a six-month resident of the Phoenix area. Is it acceptable to prune Bougainvillea and Baja Ruellia in the fall? From rodmcq6@highstream.net Thu Oct 2 22:07:29 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2003 15:07:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palm Tree Care References: <200310020526.h925QsQ4013232@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <006b01c38931$97007be0$fa31db43@ibmbna6040> An excellent bulletin about palm tree care and titled ARIZONA LANDSCAPE PALMS is available on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2003 10:26 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Mature Date Palms.Can you "skin" them without harming them? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From fck82@yahoo.com Thu Oct 2 23:36:51 2003 From: fck82@yahoo.com (fck82@yahoo.com) Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2003 16:36:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310022336.h92NapQ4019113@Ag.arizona.edu> Please, help. How can I find out what my garden needs to improve the soil, I have so much problems: tomatoes , cucumbers, eggplants are starting to grow and then stop flowering and no vegeta bles I get at the end. I have only peppers, that somehow are growing. Do you offer seminars, or lectures about gardening? Thank you Isak From rodmcq6@highstream.net Thu Oct 2 22:44:39 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2003 15:44:39 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oleanders dying References: <200310021739.h92HdSQ4029349@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <00bc01c38936$c4d5efa0$fa31db43@ibmbna6040> Kelli, The problem with your oleanders could be as simple as inadequate irrigation. One way to find out is to deep water them now at 2 week intervals, they will respond if that is the problem provided they are not already too far gone. Another possibility is Oleander Leaf Scorch. If this is the problem water will not help them recover. You can find out for sure by taking a sample shoot that has both live and dead growth on it to U. of A., Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for an opinion and a lab test. Unfortunately there is no known cure for Oleander Leaf Scorch. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ---- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2003 10:39 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I have mature (8 yr) oleanders that are one by one dying (they are planted in a row)the leaves turn brown and fall off-- I have replanted 3 of them and they don't appear to be progressing very well. My landscaper said he didn't really know what was causing it but treated the ground for a fungus--the condition is continuing passing one plant further down the line--the next guy said it is a bug carried by birds. I don't know what to do--I thought it was hard to kill these plants--Can you help? Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rodmcq6@highstream.net Thu Oct 2 22:18:46 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2003 15:18:46 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus, Pruning References: <200309282016.h8SKGVA1020840@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <008c01c38933$2845b420$fa31db43@ibmbna6040> Citrus trees should only be pruned to to remove dead or damaged branches, crossing branches, new growth from below the graft and wayward branches. Dead wood can be pruned at any time however live growth should be pruned in the spring. An excellent bulletin titled CITRUS TREES IN THE HOME GARDEN is available for $1.00 from U. of A., Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2003 1:16 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I have a lime, orange and a lemon tree. I need to have information about pruning. Where can I get it > Glad Stern > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rodmcq6@highstream.net Sat Oct 4 23:22:53 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Sat, 4 Oct 2003 16:22:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvillea, Pruning References: <200310032233.h93MX6Q4023861@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <002801c38ace$70e72b40$7d04e043@ibmbna6040> Bougainvillea growth is so vigorous that it is usually necessary to prune it several times a year. It is best to not prune it in late fall because it is quite frost tender and pruning will spur new growth. Ruellia pensularis does not require much pruning however if it needs pruning it should be done right away. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, October 03, 2003 3:33 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I am a six-month resident of the Phoenix area. Is it acceptable to prune Bougainvillea and Baja Ruellia in the fall? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From kbert5@yahoo.com Sun Oct 5 06:59:26 2003 From: kbert5@yahoo.com (Bertrand Kovac) Date: Sat, 4 Oct 2003 23:59:26 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sick Brazillian Pepper Tree Message-ID: <20031005065926.40953.qmail@web40506.mail.yahoo.com> I had a mature pepper tree with multiple trunks of 6 to 8 inch diameter. Every August it would lose one or two branches but this year the whole tree turned brown. The arborist I hired offered Cotton Rot as a possible explanation and cut the tree back to one foot stumps. I sent root samples to the Tucson lab' but the plant pathologist could not identify any pathogen. The tree was growing in an area where it is very difficult to control water; next to a golf course. It was not receiving the same deep waterings that I apply to my citrus. To water it properly in the future, I will have to use ahose. Everything else on my property is on a sprinkler timer. During the six weeks since the tree was drastically cut back, the stumps have produced a luxurious growth of leafy branches. The new growth is very vigorous. Two questions: How best to nurture the new growth? How long will it take to reach a ten foot height? Thanks in advance. Bert Keates ===== Bertrand Kovac __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search http://shopping.yahoo.com From dropzone457@aol.com Sat Oct 4 20:33:39 2003 From: dropzone457@aol.com (dropzone457@aol.com) Date: Sat, 4 Oct 2003 13:33:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310042033.h94KXdQ4006331@Ag.arizona.edu> Hello: We have 3 Queen Palms planted on a berm on our property. My problem is watering. How much? How often? At the prsent time the longest frond have turned yellow. Everyone thinks they are a landscaper and know thw answer to watering and they are all different. I have just capped the 4 emitters per tree and have discontinued the once a week deep watering. The trees have been serviced and fertilized, (spikes and Manganese) by Valley Tree Service but only time will tell. They say deep water once a week and a garden center says "you're killing them." AAGH !!! From sbarvian1@cableaz.com Sat Oct 4 19:21:09 2003 From: sbarvian1@cableaz.com (Scott Barvian) Date: Sat, 4 Oct 2003 12:21:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Master Gardener Manual Message-ID: <011801c38aac$aa9056e0$2824a8c0@lbmelman> Is the MG Manual written by the Master Gardeners with the techniques needed in the Arizona climate, or is it more generic? I'm asking because I was looking for tips on container vegetable gardening, and found these two pages which look very similar: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/vegetable/container.html http://www.mastergardenproducts.com/gardenerscorner/container_gardening.htm the latter being copyrighted. (And, if anyone has tips for growing peppers and tomatoes in containers during the fall, please let me know. Looking for recommendations on container size, fertilizing advice, etc.) From Jstrat2226@aol.com Sun Oct 5 23:23:25 2003 From: Jstrat2226@aol.com (Jstrat2226@aol.com) Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2003 19:23:25 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] bob sod Message-ID: --part1_c3.38a08e8e.2cb201ed_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit should bob sod be overseeded with winter rye? Will bob sod remain green all winter or die out like Bermuda? --part1_c3.38a08e8e.2cb201ed_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable should bob sod be overseeded with winter rye? Will bob sod=20= remain green all winter or die out like Bermuda? --part1_c3.38a08e8e.2cb201ed_boundary-- From emy_wa@yahoo.com Tue Oct 7 18:37:27 2003 From: emy_wa@yahoo.com (emy_wa@yahoo.com) Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2003 11:37:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310071837.h97IbRQ4004497@Ag.arizona.edu> We have a large glass enclosed atrium in our office and there are glossy spots appearing on the leaves of the plants. It constantly looks as if someone has just watered. Scale has been suggested but that doesn't seem to fit the information I just found on the internet. Any help in identifying and clearing up will be appreciated. From watsontl@mindspring.com Sat Oct 4 00:47:59 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Fri, 3 Oct 2003 17:47:59 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Herbs in Phoenix References: <200310032151.h93Lp9Q4016082@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000701c38a11$293433f0$6261b83f@S0029317241> When I lived in Phoenix we found the various peppermints to do well year 'round. The same for oregano. Both benefited from a little shade during the hottest part of summer. Lavenders also grew well, although they needed a bit more shade (and in fact did best when fully shaded during the afternoon during the summer. Ditto for horehound. Basil absolutely thrives in hot weather, so long as you can meet its water needs. Our were tremendously productive. Other herbs (lemon verbena, dill, and cilantro were the ones we grew) seemed to do well only during the cooler months. Organically rich, well-drained soil turned out to be the key to success for us. Go easy on nitrogen fertilizers. We had a little trouble with aphids in the spring, which were dealt with by using a mild soap solution (really need to rinse the herbs well before using if that should prove necessary). Otherwise, pests weren't much of a problem. When growing peppermint, consider restricting it to pots. Otherwise it spreads like crazy, and can be difficult to control. (But then, all our problems should smell so good!) Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, October 03, 2003 2:51 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Greetings, > What types of herbs do well in the climate around Phoenix? I am interested in planting herbs that will grow in the fall and winter, and year round if that is possible. I could use some tips on the planting and care of herbs as well. I live just south and east of the phoenix metro area. > Thanks, > Gary > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From tomarg@att.net Mon Oct 6 00:45:25 2003 From: tomarg@att.net (Tom Blount) Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2003 19:45:25 -0500 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Killing bermuda grass Message-ID: <008b01c38ba4$fc8aad30$9008570c@tom> Can you help me . I have a bed of Asian Jasmine which Bermuda grass is invading. Can I kill the Bermuda without killing the Jasmine? From typographer@cox.net Sat Oct 4 17:17:00 2003 From: typographer@cox.net (Mark Sarantos) Date: Sat, 04 Oct 2003 10:17:00 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] ....ailing Italian Cypress Message-ID: <20031004171640.SWBH1644.fed1mtao04.cox.net@[68.2.168.205]> Arid Gardener-- My 15-year-old 20-foot-tall Italian Cypress are displaying unsettling symptoms. The once spire-like columns are now droopy and random areas midway up the tree are losing needles and turning brown. I've inspected the tree and don't see any tell-tale 'webs' from mites. I water thoroughly once a week (deep soaks) and have given them MiracleGro feeds once every 3 months. What's wrong with my trees...hate to lose them. Mark mark@sumdesign.com From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net Sat Oct 4 00:16:50 2003 From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Fri, 3 Oct 2003 17:16:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Small Dirt Mounds in Garden References: <200310031825.h93IPfQ4029755@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <012901c38a0c$d568ed50$0752530c@olin> Probably doodle bugs, . In the larva stage they are called antlions. They dig a shallow cone-shaped pit in loose soil with 1 1/2 to 2 " mounds and wait at the bottom for an ant or other insect to slip and and fall in. It is not always easy to dig one from the pit because it remains motionless when disturbed and covered with a layer of dust The adult resembles a damselfly but is seldom seen - comes out only in the evening. Photo at:: http://insects.tamu.edu/images/insects/common/images/b-txt/bimg127.html The larva lurks at the bottom of the pit. Photo at: http://insects.tamu.edu/images/insects/common/images/b-txt/bimg128.html For more info, try googling using "myrmeleontidae". to confirm the ID. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > I have small (no larger than 1")mound of dirt all through my garden. The mounds are very granular in appearance, but do not look anything like regular ant hills. Can you tell me what's going on? From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Oct 7 22:44:17 2003 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 07 Oct 2003 15:44:17 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: propagating red yucca] Message-ID: <3F8341C1.9090900@qwest.net> --------------050607000008070808000602 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Could someone help Jane, please? -------- Original Message -------- Subject: propagating red yucca Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2003 13:51:01 -0500 From: "jane" To: lindaguy@qwest.net What time of year do you plant the seeds? I live at 6000 ft in the desert mountains of texas.........and ideas? thanks, Jane --------------050607000008070808000602 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Could someone help Jane, please?

-------- Original Message --------

Subject:	propagating red yucca
Date:	Tue, 7 Oct 2003 13:51:01 -0500
From:	"jane" <jane1@starband.net>
To:	lindaguy@qwest.net

What time of year do you plant the seeds? I live at 6000 ft in the desert mountains of texas.........and ideas? thanks, Jane

--------------050607000008070808000602-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Oct 7 22:52:40 2003 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 07 Oct 2003 15:52:40 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: pruning orange trees] Message-ID: <3F8343B8.7020602@qwest.net> --------------070509080700000503060908 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Could someone please reply to John? -------- Original Message -------- Subject: pruning orange trees Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2003 09:04:18 -0400 From: "John" To: lindaguy@qwest.net Would like info on pruning my navel orange tree. I live in South Florida. Thank you John --------------070509080700000503060908 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Could someone please reply to John?

-------- Original Message --------

Subject:	pruning orange trees
Date:	Tue, 7 Oct 2003 09:04:18 -0400
From:	"John" <travel13@worldnet.att.net>
To:	lindaguy@qwest.net

Would like info on pruning my navel orange tree. I live in South Florida. Thank you

John

--------------070509080700000503060908-- From travel13@worldnet.att.net Tue Oct 7 13:07:47 2003 From: travel13@worldnet.att.net (John) Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2003 09:07:47 -0400 Subject: [Arid_gardener] pruning orange trees Message-ID: <000801c38cd4$021fa6d0$9865fea9@john> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C38CB2.7A4363D0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Would like info. on pruning orange trees. I live in south Florida. Thank you John ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C38CB2.7A4363D0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Would like info. on pruning orange = trees. I live in=20 south Florida.

Thank you

John

------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C38CB2.7A4363D0-- From darizona@ieee.org Tue Oct 7 04:34:25 2003 From: darizona@ieee.org (darizona@ieee.org) Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 21:34:25 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310070434.h974YPQ4011967@Ag.arizona.edu> When should Lady Banks roses be fertilized? From JJcsieger@aol.com Sun Oct 5 05:33:28 2003 From: JJcsieger@aol.com (JJcsieger@aol.com) Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2003 01:33:28 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] MESQUITE TREES Message-ID: <11a.291e4866.2cb10728@aol.com> -------------------------------1065332007 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I am looking for any information about the removal or treatment of mistle toe infected mesquite trees. any information about products to treat the infection, or methods to effectively irradicate it. thank you. -------------------------------1065332007 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I am looking for any information about the removal or treatment of mist= le toe infected mesquite trees. any information about products to treat the=20= infection, or methods to effectively irradicate it. thank you.

<= /HTML> -------------------------------1065332007-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Oct 6 20:04:14 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 20:04:14 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] What's burrowing into my soil? Message-ID: one possibility might be decollette snails >From: Krulich@aol.com >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] What's burrowing into my soil? >Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 15:29:15 EDT > >I have some small trees in 5 gallon pots, and I noticed that in each pot >there are a few holes around 1/4" in diameter in the soil. Also, the soil >is >getting pushed out through the drain holes around the bottom. Does anyone >know >what is causing this? > >Tom >Tucson, AZ >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Instant message with integrated webcam using MSN Messenger 6.0. Try it now FREE! http://msnmessenger-download.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Oct 6 19:57:45 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 19:57:45 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Red Yucca Message-ID: I have no expereince with cutting red yucca back. I suggest you contact your local Cooperative Extension office (in the "County" pages of the phone book). They should be able to give you better advice. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Janet Jacobson >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Red Yucca >Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 20:43:49 -0500 > >We have 20+ Red Yuccas bordering our front yard in the Austin, TX area that >have been gnawed badly by the local white-tail deer population this summer. > The plants are also overgrown with some type of weed. Can I cut the >yuccas back for the winter? Will they grow back next spring if I do so? > >Thanks, >Janet Jacobson > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Instant message with integrated webcam using MSN Messenger 6.0. Try it now FREE! http://msnmessenger-download.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Oct 6 19:53:02 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 19:53:02 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] fall herbs Message-ID: here is an earlier response to a similar question: Mints, Parsley, Oregano and Sage are all best planted in the fall. Basil is a warm season herb that will die back with a freeze. It prefers a sunny location. Mints require a moist soil with shade. If you grow mint it is a good idea to keep it contained. You can get more information on growing herbs in the low desert from the Arizona Herb Association. You can visit their web page by going to: http://www.accessarizona.com/community/groups/azherb/index.html Sue Bass Master Gardener >From: garyb135@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 3 Oct 2003 14:51:09 -0700 (MST) > >Greetings, >What types of herbs do well in the climate around Phoenix? I am interested >in planting herbs that will grow in the fall and winter, and year round if >that is possible. I could use some tips on the planting and care of herbs >as well. I live just south and east of the phoenix metro area. >Thanks, >Gary > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Instant message in style with MSN Messenger 6.0. Download it now FREE! http://msnmessenger-download.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Oct 6 19:55:43 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 19:55:43 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] pruning bougainvillea and ruellia Message-ID: Bougainvillea and Ruellia are usually pruned in the spring after growth begins again. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: arizbunzer@msn.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 3 Oct 2003 15:33:06 -0700 (MST) > >I am a six-month resident of the Phoenix area. Is it acceptable to prune >Bougainvillea and Baja Ruellia in the fall? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get MSN 8 Dial-up Internet Service FREE for one month. Limited time offer-- sign up now! http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/dialup From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Oct 6 19:50:12 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 19:50:12 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] ant dirt mound Message-ID: These sound like new ant nests just getting started by a single ant. Most of these will perish quickly. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: rdburrow@prodigy.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 3 Oct 2003 11:25:41 -0700 (MST) > >I have small (no larger than 1")mound of dirt all through my garden. The >mounds are very granular in appearance, but do not look anything like >regular ant hills. Can you tell me what's going on? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Share your photos without swamping your Inbox. Get Hotmail Extra Storage today! http://join.msn.com/?PAGE=features/es From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Oct 6 19:47:14 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 19:47:14 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] vegetable garden Message-ID: Our soils need as much organic matter as you can supply each time you plant. Some nitrogen and phosphorus sources are also necessary. Water is critical and it takes some time and experimenting to develop a watering schedule that works for your plants and soil. Planting at the right time is also important. Here is a planting guide for Maricopa County: http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1005.pdf Linda Drew Master Gardener And here is some advice published earlier: You might want to keep abreast of the monthly garden activities at our Timely Tips section at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm The page with the recommended reading list is located at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/library/ref-grdn.htm I really like George Brookbank's Desert Gardening and Nyhuis' Desert Harvest. Of course you could try our own Desert Gardening for Beginners, which many nurseries carry, or you can order online. Sometimes life gets the best of me and I purchase six packs of transplants, particularly cabbage, broccoli, etc. from my favorite local nursery. But I adore my salad greens and purchase an array of seeds to keep the salad bowl in both the house and the rabbit hutch filled to overflowing. You might be amazed to learn that the seeds from the catalogs of our more northerly neighbors, which feature short-season varieties, can do well here. That's because our seasons are also short....short autumns before the coolness causes a temporary hibernation of some winter crops which recover come February or so. Similarly, we plant tomatos, usually with some protection in February and the short season or "early" varieties start producing well before the summer's blast. >From: fck82@yahoo.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2003 16:36:51 -0700 (MST) > >Please, help. > >How can I find out what my garden needs to > >improve the soil, I have so much problems: > >tomatoes , cucumbers, eggplants are starting > >to grow and then stop flowering and no vegeta > >bles I get at the end. I have only peppers, > >that somehow are growing. > >Do you offer seminars, or lectures about > >gardening? > >Thank you > >Isak > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Add MSN 8 Internet Software to your existing Internet access and enjoy patented spam protection and more. Sign up now! http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/byoa From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Oct 6 19:38:29 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 19:38:29 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] rabbit-resistant plants Message-ID: Rabbits will eat almost anything if hungry enough. THe best deterrent is a barrier to exclude them. Here is some information: http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening/news/azdailystar/rabbits_in_garden.html http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1237.pdf Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: kalldg@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2003 11:21:35 -0700 (MST) > >I would like to plant vegetables, flowers and herbs both in pots and in >plots of garden that rabbits will not eat. Do you have any suggestions? >Thank You. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get McAfee virus scanning and cleaning of incoming attachments. Get Hotmail Extra Storage! http://join.msn.com/?PAGE=features/es From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Oct 6 19:28:41 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 19:28:41 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] tree ID Message-ID: One possibility is the pink floss silk tree (Chorisia speciosa) Another possibility is one of the Bauhinia species. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: duane.floyd@pinnaclewest.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 13:42:32 -0700 (MST) > >I just purchased a new home and have a tree I have never seen before. The >truck is uniformly covered with thons thst most resemble taht of a rose >bush. It has small semi-round leaves and a smooth, greyish back above the >thorn cover. Any hints? >Thank you, >Duane > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Frustrated with dial-up? Get high-speed for as low as $29.95/month (depending on the local service providers in your area). https://broadband.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Oct 6 19:18:50 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 19:18:50 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] mesquites, African sumac Message-ID: My experience is that both of these trees do produce quite a bit of litter; haven't noticed much difference between them. One big difference is African sumac is very susceptible to cotton (Texas) root rot and mesquite is tolerant of it. Also sumac reseeds readily; mesquite has invasive roots that may cause problems near leaky plumbing and sewer lines. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: tkrilling@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 13:11:48 -0700 (MST) > >I would like to know the lifespan of both African Sumac and Mesquite trees. > >The house I purchased has two African Sumacs, which are probably about 20 >years old. They are VERY high maintenance. I'm wondering about replacing >them with one or two Mesquite trees, which also demand a certain degree of >maintenance, but I don't think they are quite as bad as the A.S. > >Does this make sense to you? > >Thanks for any imput you can provide. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Add MSN 8 Internet Software to your existing Internet access and enjoy patented spam protection and more. Sign up now! http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/byoa From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Oct 6 19:10:58 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 19:10:58 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] tortoises, grasses Message-ID: I am not an expert on grasses, but here is some information I have found: Bermuda grass may eventually crowd out everything else, so you may want to plant it in a contained area. Buffalo grass will form a turf, but is not as aggressive as bermuda (needs the same amount of water though). The bluestems and gramas are bunch grasses and a variety of them should grow together. The fescues are usually cool season grasses here (those listed above are warm season). You might also want to see if there are other supplemental foods you can provide (I would think you will need a lot of grasses to feed them as they get bigger). I have a desert tortoise through the Arizona Sonora Desert Museum and they offer a list of supplemental foods that are acceptable. The recommended diet is of course a variety of native grasses and small herbaceous plants such as globe mallow. It may be necessary to have "pastures" so you can move them around and let the vegetation rebound. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: kjatjh@cableaz.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 09:45:55 -0700 (MST) > >I hope I have reached the right officer, if I have not, please forward this >email. I have African Spur Tortoises (also known as sulcata) that grow to >150lbs. I live in Mesa and have an average size shaded home lot. I need >to grow grasses for the tortoises but do not know which of the following >would grow in my area and conditions, which would grow together, or when >they should be planted. The following is a list of recommended grasses for >these tortoises, they also recommend a feeding a variety of them. Can you >please advise? >Buffalo grass (Buchloe dactyloides) >Bermuda grass (Cynodon dactylon -- which actually originated in Africa!) >Orchardgrass (Dactylis glomerata) >Big Bluestem (Andropogon gerardii) >Little Bluestem (Andropogon scoparious) >Western wheatgrass (Agropyron smithii) >Blue Grama (Bouteloua gracilis) >Arizona Fescue (Festuca arizonica) >Lawn Fescue (Festuca arundinacea) >Sheep Fescue (Festuca ovina) >Creeping Red Fescue (Festuca rubra) > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Instant message during games with MSN Messenger 6.0. Download it now FREE! http://msnmessenger-download.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Oct 6 18:48:29 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 18:48:29 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] wall and patio around tree Message-ID: Both of these actions might cause damage to the tree. If possible, locate the planter and patio beyond the dripline of the tree. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: hefjay@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 16:25:14 -0700 (MST) > >I have a ficus tree that is about 25' tall, 20' in diameter and about 8 >years old. I want to build a brick planter around the bottom of it about >12-18 inches tall, and then brick patio out from their. The problem there >are some surface roots where I want to put the patio. Will cutting out the >problem roots or building the planter hurt the tree? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Instant message in style with MSN Messenger 6.0. Download it now FREE! http://msnmessenger-download.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Oct 6 18:45:33 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 18:45:33 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] bougainvillea Message-ID: The symptoms you described might be caused by too much water -- either overwatering or poor drainage so the plant stands in water. Could you give us some additional information about how the palnts is being watered? Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: mdecindis@mag.maricopa.gov >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 09:56:39 -0700 (MST) > >I have a 10 year old bougainvillea plant that has started to look very bad. >Thin, and the leaves are light green with white/yellow around the edges. >Please tell me explicitly what to buy and what to do. Thanks. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Instant message during games with MSN Messenger 6.0. Download it now FREE! http://msnmessenger-download.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Oct 6 18:41:36 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 18:41:36 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] blue agave Message-ID: blue agave: Agave tequilana Weber azul this species is somewhat frost-tender and sun-tender in the low desert and should be given overhead protection or light shade (Irish, "Agaves, Yuccas, and Related Plants") Do you think it is getting too much sun? Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: bchristie@att.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2003 19:11:06 -0700 (MST) > > One of our Blue Agaves has drooping leaves on the bottom. THis >started with the leaves (do you call them leaves?) curling, now about the >bottom 1/3 are lying on the rock beneath them. They are still the >bluish-green color. Anything we can/should do? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Instant message during games with MSN Messenger 6.0. Download it now FREE! http://msnmessenger-download.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Oct 6 18:29:17 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2003 18:29:17 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cooperative Extension offices Message-ID: in Phoenix, the main Cooperative Extension office is: 4341 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040, (602) 470-8086 in Tucson, the main Cooperative Extension office is: 4210 N. Campbell Avenue, Tucson, Az 85719, (520) 626-5161 Not sure what you have on your oak - brining in a sample is probably the best thing to do. If it is wholly galls, these are caused by a small wasp and are not considered a problem (no treatment necessary). Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: >To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) >Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 12:14:55 -0400 > >I will apologize upfront for not saving the address that you have given out >so many times before. However, the "fuzzy-woolys" are back on my Southern >Live Oak. These appear to be fresh & unhatched egg cases located on the >underside of the leaves. Can you give me the address >that I can walk-in or send a specimen to. I would like to identify what >these are & ascertain if a treatment is available. The affected leaves >will turn brown & drop off in the spring. There are a lot of them > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Share your photos without swamping your Inbox. Get Hotmail Extra Storage today! http://join.msn.com/?PAGE=features/es From angelwingranch@cox.net Mon Oct 6 01:00:30 2003 From: angelwingranch@cox.net (Janet Jorgensen) Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2003 18:00:30 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bird of Paradise Message-ID: <002501c38ba5$3d2140c0$42ad0244@Janet> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0022_01C38B6A.90A85110 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I found your email on the web. I live in North Phoenix... I have a Purple/yellow flower type BOP (sorry I don't know the real = name). It has one bloom but the previous owner of the house seemed to just = "hack" at it...what is the correct way to prune and when should it be = done? Thanks for your help! Janet Jorgensen ------=_NextPart_000_0022_01C38B6A.90A85110 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I found your email on the = web.

I live in North Phoenix...

I have a Purple/yellow flower type BOP = (sorry I=20 don't know the real name).

It has one bloom but the previous owner = of the=20 house seemed to just "hack" at it...what is the correct way to prune and = when=20 should it be done?

Thanks for your help!

Janet Jorgensen

------=_NextPart_000_0022_01C38B6A.90A85110-- From jimtinnell@hotmail.com Wed Oct 8 05:01:15 2003 From: jimtinnell@hotmail.com (Jim Tinnell) Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2003 22:01:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Nightshade Vegetables Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C38D1E.878FF640 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable To Whom It May Concern, What fruits and vegetables are in the nightshade family? My doctor = believes that my wife and I are allergic to these foods, so I need a = more comprehensive list of foods to avoid. Thank you, Jim Tinnell ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C38D1E.878FF640 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

To Whom It May Concern,

What fruits and vegetables are in the = nightshade=20 family? My doctor believes that my wife and I are allergic to these = foods, so I=20 need a more comprehensive list of foods to avoid.

Thank you,

Jim Tinnell

------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C38D1E.878FF640-- From jonadels@netscape.net Wed Oct 8 04:03:34 2003 From: jonadels@netscape.net (jonadels@netscape.net) Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2003 21:03:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310080403.h9843YQ4013461@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a 5 year old miniature mexican lime tree that is bearing fruit and was doing quite well until 3 days ago. Since then, almost all of the leaves have curled into cigar-like tubes over the entire plant, and the whole tree is drooping. There is no discoloration of the leaves, and I can see no evidence of any spots or insects on the leaves. I did let it go a little longer bewteen waterings, but I've done this before, and at most it results in dropping of yellowing leaves. Is there anything I can do to save this poor tree? From jjmollerus@juno.com Wed Oct 8 14:36:22 2003 From: jjmollerus@juno.com (jjmollerus@juno.com) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 07:36:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310081436.h98EaMQ4016497@Ag.arizona.edu> Where in the valley can I buy French marigold seeds? I have nematodes. Soil sterilization has helped but more need to be done. A local nursery recommended planting marigold seeds with my tomatoes etc. for nematode relief. Searching the web I found plenty of info regarding the use of marigolds for nematode control (ex. No. Carolina Dept of Agriculture at www.ncagr.com/agronomi/nnote1.htm). However, most of the articles point to the use of French or African marigolds. The African marigold is rather large and wouldn't fit the garden. I tried to find French marigold seeds however no luck at nurseries near me. The seed company catalogs don't seem to carry them. Can buy them on the web, however the outfits that seem to bee selling French marigold seeds are located in other countries. Therefore, my question about local seed sources. Thanks John Mollerus From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net Wed Oct 8 18:01:51 2003 From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 11:01:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Nightshade Vegetables References: Message-ID: <000701c38dc6$44c889a0$c653530c@olin> The best known and most common are the solanaceous (nightshade family): Tomatoes, potatoes, eggplant, and peppers. There is also a "vegetable huckleberry" that is actually a solanaceous ground cherry, but it isn't seen very often and only in some home gardens. Olin Miller ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Tinnell" To Whom It May Concern, What fruits and vegetables are in the nightshade family? My doctor believes that my wife and I are allergic to these foods, so I need a more comprehensive list of foods to avoid. Thank you, Jim Tinnell From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net Wed Oct 8 17:40:00 2003 From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 10:40:00 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Growing Container Tomatoes and Peppers (long) References: <011801c38aac$aa9056e0$2824a8c0@lbmelman> Message-ID: <003801c38dc4$4b8d3e40$c653530c@olin> ----- Original Message -----From: "Scott Barvian" Subject: [Arid_gardener] Master Gardener Manual > Is the MG Manual written by the Master Gardeners with the techniques > needed in the Arizona climate, or is it more generic? > I'm asking because I was looking for tips on container vegetable > gardening, and found these two pages which look very similar: > http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/vegetable/container.html > http://www.mastergardenproducts.com/gardenerscorner/container_gardening.htm > the latter being copyrighted. > (And, if anyone has tips for growing peppers and tomatoes in > containers during the fall, please let me know. Looking for > recommendations on container size, fertilizing advice, etc.) You can plant in containers at any time but for best and consistent results, plant: Tomatoes: Mid July to mid August and Mid February to April 1 Sweet Peppers: July and Mid February to April 1 Hot Peppers: March and April If you plant now and keep the containers outdoors, don't expect much growth after December 1 but they should still do okay and you will get a jump start on the sprong growing season. The following article may also be helpful: ================================================= "Gardening in Containers, By Bert Konzal (Adapted from: �Gardening in the Sun�) If you like fresh picked produce but don�t have the space or time for a full fledged vegetable garden, try small scale gardening in containers. If you like color on your patio or in the yard, try flower gardening in containers. In addition to its being fun, there are several reasons for growing flowers in containers: 1. Space for a large garden may not be available if you live in an apartment, a townhouse, a mobile home or a home with a small area for gardening. 2. You may want to grow a few favorite vegetables or a few of your favorite flowers. 3. You can make pleasing arrangements that can be moved around to give variety and change since the combination of attractive plants and containers allows creative ideas to flow. 4. By growing your flowers and vegetables in containers you can protect the plants from gophers, squirrels and rabbits. 5. If you have health problems you can get the containers off the ground to a reasonable height so you can work on them and enjoy them. 6. You can regulate the amount of water each plant gets as well as the nutrients. 7. You may have heavy deposits of caliche or soil contaminated by weed killing chemicals or nematodes. 8. Because our seasons change it is an advantage to be able to move plants into more sheltered places when cold weather or excessive heat requires it. 9. If you are a renter, you can take your garden with you when you move. WHAT KIND OF CONTAINERS CAN BE USED? You can grow flowers or vegetables in expensive clay pots and bowls, plastic pots, drainpipes on end, recycled trash cans, old tires, buckets, cans, boxes, plastic bags, styrofoam chests, bushel baskets, half barrels, produce boxes, steel drums, old boots or shoes and anything else that will hold planting mix. Containers must have drainage holes punched in them on the side or bottom and be free of toxic residue. They can be painted to fit a color scheme or be left in their natural state. Large containers such as half whiskey barrels can be used to grow dwarf fruit trees or heavily pruned standard trees and grapes. Smaller containers for single plants should not be less than two gallons in capacity, otherwise the heat of summer will require water on a daily basis or the roots will burn. Hanging baskets may be used, but require daily watering and increased care. PREPARATION OF CONTAINERS Be sure the containers are clean! New containers can be used immediately, but if you reuse containers they should be sanitized before using. Use one cup of bleach to 5 gallons of water, soak for at least 15 minutes, then wash and dry. Container grown plants need good drainage. You need to cover the drainage holes with some screen or pieces of a broken clay pot. I use the screen covering as it keeps the potting mix in the container and keeps insects and snails from entering the container. If you are using galvanized metal containers they should be painted inside with a non-lead base paint. Zinc in the galvanized coating can be toxic to many plants. WHAT CAN BE GROWN IN CONTAINERS? You can grow practically any flowers or vegetables, especially those which grow rapidly. Plant breeders have recently developed dwarf varieties that grow quickly and well in containers. Listed on page 8 are some of the vegetables I have grown in containers in the Phoenix area WHAT GOES INTO THE CONTAINER The type of planting mix you use will determine your success with container gardening. The growing medium must perform three functions: a. Water holding capacity; b. Air holding capacity; c. Nutrient holding capacity. If you purchase a planting mix be sure it contains peat moss, forest mulch, sand, perlite and vermiculite. A homemade substitute made of equal parts of peat moss, sharp coarse sand, forest mulch or compost and one fourth part perlite and vermiculite. No Arizona soil is used. A slow-release balanced fertilizer, such as Osmocote 14-14-14, should be mixed well into the potting medium at the rate of two ounces per cubic foot of mix. Do not fill the container to the very top. Leave about two inches of space that can be filled with water at each irrigation. The potting medium should not be packed, but remain light and open to allow good root development, aeration and drainage. PLANT THE CORRECT FLOWERS OR VEGETABLES IN THE RIGHT SEASON Seed may be sown directly into the container, but it is preferable to start your seeds in cups earlier or purchase transplants from your favorite nursery. Remember that there are two planting seasons in the low desert, early spring and late summer. Your local nursery can direct you as to what to plant and when to plant. WHERE TO PLACE THE CONTAINERS Flowers and vegetables require six to eight hours of sunlight so place your containers in a location where they will receive the most sunshine. In summer move the containers so they will get protection from afternoon sun. HOW TO GROW THE PLANTS Plants in containers need to be watered more often than plants growing in the ground. Water thoroughly until water comes out the drain holes. In the summer plants in containers need water each day whereas in the winter or cooler weather once or twice per week. Plants in containers need to be fed every seven to ten days with a water soluble plant food such as �Miracle Gro�, one tablespoon per gallon of water. Vegetables will do best if the nitrogen content of the water soluble fertilizer is a little lower. If flowering plants or vegetables get too much nitrogen the plant will be all foliage and very few flowers, fruits or vegetables. Insects like plants grown in containers just as well as those grown in the ground. Worms or caterpillars can be controlled with �BT� or by manually picking them off and giving them the �sole� treatment. Aphids can be controlled by daily spraying with water, washing them off the plants CAUTION The container gardener�s major problems are: 1. Over-watering or under-watering and salt buildup. 2. Letting containers get too hot from the sun�s rays or absorbed heat from pavement." From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net Wed Oct 8 18:19:57 2003 From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 11:19:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [Arid_gardener]Fall Herbs References: Message-ID: <001601c38dc8$d1abf8f0$c653530c@olin> ----- Original Message ----- > >From: garyb135@cox.net > >To: > >Greetings, > >What types of herbs do well in the climate around Phoenix? I am interested > >in planting herbs that will grow in the fall and winter, and year round if > >that is possible. I could use some tips on the planting and care of herbs > >as well. I live just south and east of the phoenix metro area. > >Thanks, > >Gary Many perennial herbs are grown from seeds or transplants as hardy annuals in October and November. Most of the usual, frost-tender herbs are planted in the early spring. The following list for October is taken from the Appendix in the book, "Desert Gardening for Beginners: How to Grow Vegetables, Flowers and Herbs in an Arid Climate". Information at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/mgpress/dgfb.htm The book contains the entire herb planting schedule as well as planting calendars for vegetables and flowers. Anise, Borage, Caraway, Catnip, Chervil, Chives, Cilantro(Coriander), Dill, Fennel, Oct-Jan, Garlic Chives, Horehound, Lavender, Lemon Balm, Marjoram, Mint, Oregano, Parsley, Rosemary, Sage, Salad Burnet, Santolina, Winter Savory, Scented Geraniums, Thyme, Yarrow. I am not an herb expert but I grow quite a few among vegetables with good success by following the planting calendar. Olin October Herb Planting Calendar From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net Wed Oct 8 18:36:25 2003 From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 11:36:25 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [Arid_gardener]Rabbit-Proof Plants References: <200310011821.h91ILZQ4026283@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <004501c38dcb$1a47daa0$c653530c@olin> The only sure way is to put a 2-foot chicken wire fence, tight to the ground or buried a few inches, around the garden. I have heard they can jump over a 2-foot fence; jack rabbits certainly can but cottontails are less likely to jump that high. Rabbits will burrow under the fence once they have tasted the plants and know where they are but won't (usually) if they have never sampled the plants. If practical, container plants could be placed too high for the rabbits to reach. Repellents like chile pepper spray and blood meal work to some extent but need to be renewed afar irrigating. Olin Miller ----- Original Message ----- From: > I would like to plant vegetables, flowers and herbs both in pots and in plots of garden that rabbits will not eat. Do you have any suggestions? Thank You. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Oct 8 20:26:55 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 08 Oct 2003 20:26:55 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Nightshade Vegetables Message-ID: Potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, tobacco others: sacred datura/jimson weed, petunias, nierembergia, butterfly flower(Schizanthus) The nightshade family (Solanaceae) includes about 2000 species of herbs, shrubs, trees and vines. In addition to many ornamentals, the family abounds in plants with medicinal or poisonous properties, and the potato, tomato, eggplant, peppers, tobacco and others. (from Hortus). Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Jim Tinnell" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Nightshade Vegetables >Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2003 22:01:15 -0700 > >To Whom It May Concern, > >What fruits and vegetables are in the nightshade family? My doctor believes >that my wife and I are allergic to these foods, so I need a more >comprehensive list of foods to avoid. > >Thank you, > >Jim Tinnell _________________________________________________________________ Instant message during games with MSN Messenger 6.0. Download it now FREE! http://msnmessenger-download.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Oct 8 20:15:35 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 08 Oct 2003 20:15:35 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] lime tree, leaves curling Message-ID: The curling leaves sound like a symptom of water stress and that may be what is happening since it went a bit long between waterings. If you haven't deep-watered it yet, I would do that and see if it responds. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: jonadels@netscape.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2003 21:03:34 -0700 (MST) > >I have a 5 year old miniature mexican lime tree that is bearing fruit and >was doing quite well until 3 days ago. Since then, almost all of the leaves >have curled into cigar-like tubes over the entire plant, and the whole tree >is drooping. There is no discoloration of the leaves, and I can see no >evidence of any spots or insects on the leaves. I did let it go a little >longer bewteen waterings, but I've done this before, and at most it results >in dropping of yellowing leaves. Is there anything I can do to save this >poor tree? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Instant message with integrated webcam using MSN Messenger 6.0. Try it now FREE! http://msnmessenger-download.com From BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu Wed Oct 8 17:32:22 2003 From: BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Wed, 08 Oct 2003 10:32:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] website updates on West Nile Virus in Arizona. Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20031008103145.047292b0@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_11215707==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed >Peder Cuneo has provided us with a website that has updates on the West >Nile Virus in Arizona. It can be found >at: http://www.hs.state.az.us/phs/oids/vector/wnv_update.htm. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert. "The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona." ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ --=====================_11215707==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

Peder Cuneo has provided us with a website that has updates on the West
Nile Virus in Arizona. It can be found
at: http://www.hs.state.az.us/phs/oids/vector/wnv_update.htm.

Remove the mistletoe infected branches one foot below the = infection in=20 the direction of the trunk. Break off flower stalks before they produce = seeds.=20 Prune as new infections appear.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick

Master Gardener

From: JJcsieger@aol.com

To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= =20

Sent: Saturday, October 04, = 2003 10:33=20 PM

Subject: [Arid_gardener] = MESQUITE=20 TREES

I am looking for any information about the removal or treatment = of mistle=20 toe infected mesquite trees. any information about products to treat = the=20 infection, or methods to effectively irradicate it. thank=20 you.

------=_NextPart_000_007F_01C38DB8.926CAB40-- From watsontl@mindspring.com Wed Oct 8 22:45:04 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (watsontl@mindspring.com) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 15:45:04 -0700 (GMT-07:00) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Marigolds and Nematodes Message-ID: <9263789.1065653170228.JavaMail.root@wamui03.slb.atl.earthlink.net> French marigolds are not a single type of marigold, but one of several horticultural catagories marigolds are broken down into. So you won't find a packet of seeds simply labeled French marigold. You might, however, find some that, in the fine print, describe the variety they contain to be "a French type" or words to that effect. There are a lot of varieties of French marigolds. Many of the marigolds sold in nurseries are of the French type, so you might be able to get what you need by asking for such. There is a specific marigold sold by Seeds of Change (in New Mexico) that is grown as a cover crop to kill nematodes. The link below will lead you to it. I doubt you will find this one locally. These are big plants (up to 7 feet tall) so I don't know how this would work for your space situation. They are, however, and by all accounts, the most effective marigold for the job. http://www.seedsofchange.com/garden_center/product_details.asp?UID=2003100812281399&item_no=PS15493 Can you tell us what sort of plants were damaged by nematodes, and how you determined that these worms were the cause? Tom -----Original Message----- From: jjmollerus@juno.com Sent: Oct 8, 2003 7:36 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Where in the valley can I buy French marigold seeds? I have nematodes. Soil sterilization has helped but more need to be done. A local nursery recommended planting marigold seeds with my tomatoes etc. for nematode relief. Searching the web I found plenty of info regarding the use of marigolds for nematode control (ex. No. Carolina Dept of Agriculture at www.ncagr.com/agronomi/nnote1.htm). However, most of the articles point to the use of French or African marigolds. The African marigold is rather large and wouldn't fit the garden. I tried to find French marigold seeds however no luck at nurseries near me. The seed company catalogs don't seem to carry them. Can buy them on the web, however the outfits that seem to bee selling French marigold seeds are located in other countries. Therefore, my question about local seed sources. Thanks John Mollerus _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From rodmcq6@highstream.net Wed Oct 8 23:04:23 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 16:04:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palm Tree Watering and Care Message-ID: <007601c38df0$8568a100$d531db43@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0073_01C38DB5.D75E8A00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable University of Arizona Cooperative Extension publishes a bulletin on palm care titled ARIZONA LANDSCAPE PALMS available on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf This bulletin states that most species of palms should be deep watered = in summer every couple weeks. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0073_01C38DB5.D75E8A00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

University of Arizona Cooperative = Extension=20 publishes a bulletin on palm
care titled ARIZONA LANDSCAPE PALMS = available on=20 line at:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf

This bulletin states that most species of palms = should be=20 deep watered in summer every couple weeks.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick

Master Gardener

------=_NextPart_000_0073_01C38DB5.D75E8A00-- From the_idoru@hotmail.com Wed Oct 8 23:02:16 2003 From: the_idoru@hotmail.com (the_idoru@hotmail.com) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 16:02:16 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310082302.h98N2GQ4003814@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a question about a weed infestation that I have in my front yard. There is a single type of weed that is growing in the yard, and it's so successful that it is killing whole patches of grass. I'll try to describe it: It's short, each plant is a single stem, maybe 5 inches long max. The stem and leaves are a reddish-green color. Each plant has numerous leaves that branch off in pairs directly from the stem. There are no branches off the stem otherwise. There are what appear to be small seed bundles along the stem, in between the leaf pairs. It grows only in direct sunlight. Basically, there are a million of these little buggers growing in the front yard, and they are so successful that despite their diminutive size they are taking over and killing the grass. They started growing this summer, and I tried pulling them, but inevitably I would miss a whole lot. I've tried a spray-on "kill the weeds not the grass" type herbicide that is supposedly good for killing broad-leaf plants, but this weed just laughed it off and thanked me for watering it. I'm sure a picture would help, and I will gladly take one upon request. Alternatively, I could stop by with a sample of the plant. Could I please get some advice as to what kind of steps I can take to kill this while hopefully not killing the grass? Worst case scenario, my front yard (it's small) goes desert landscape, but I need to know how to kill this thing in case it spreads to the back yard, which I can't turn desert. Thank you. From rodmcq6@highstream.net Wed Oct 8 23:43:38 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 16:43:38 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Italian Cypress Ailing References: <20031004171640.SWBH1644.fed1mtao04.cox.net@[68.2.168.205]> Message-ID: <009401c38df6$017ac480$d531db43@ibmbna6040> Mark, I would suspect spider mites even though you said that you did not see webs. Mites are very small and difficult to see. Hold a white sheet of paper under a branch as you shake it. You will be able to see the mites on the white paper. A strong spray of water will often dislodge the mites unless the infestion is bad. In this case use a miticide spray. I would not recommend applying fertilizer more then once a year. The Arizona Cypress is subject to injury from nitrogen and the Italian Cypress is the same genus. Good luck. Rod Mckusick Master Gardener ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Sarantos" To: Sent: Saturday, October 04, 2003 10:17 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] ....ailing Italian Cypress > > > Arid Gardener-- > My 15-year-old 20-foot-tall Italian Cypress are displaying unsettling > symptoms. The once spire-like columns are now droopy and random areas midway > up the tree are losing needles and turning brown. I've inspected the tree > and don't see any tell-tale 'webs' from mites. I water thoroughly once a > week (deep soaks) and have given them MiracleGro feeds once every 3 months. > What's wrong with my trees...hate to lose them. > > Mark > mark@sumdesign.com > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net Thu Oct 9 00:53:12 2003 From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 17:53:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200310081436.h98EaMQ4016497@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <002801c38dff$b96d22a0$1150530c@olin> I saw French marigold seeds at our local Home Depot today (NW Phoenix). Double blossoms - Ferry Morse. Our local Summer Winds nursery has 6 cell pony packs of French marigolds, many with 2 per cell. I always plant French among the vegetables, mainly for the color and aroma. I have never had a root knot nematode problem but have no hard evidence that marigolds had a role in that. As I understand the theory, the marigolds resist the root knot nematodes such that the population is reduced in the area where the marigolds are planted. Then a susceptible plant is grown in that area and the marigolds are planted somewhere else. This requires rigorous attention to crop rotation. You mentioned soil sterilization. Was that chemical or by solarization? Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > Where in the valley can I buy French marigold seeds? > I have nematodes. Soil sterilization has helped but more need to be done. A local nursery recommended planting marigold seeds with my tomatoes etc. for nematode relief. Searching the web I found plenty of info regarding the use of marigolds for nematode control (ex. No. Carolina Dept of Agriculture at www.ncagr.com/agronomi/nnote1.htm). However, most of the articles point to the use of French or African marigolds. The African marigold is rather large and wouldn't fit the garden. I tried to find French marigold seeds however no luck at nurseries near me. The seed company catalogs don't seem to carry them. Can buy them on the web, however the outfits that seem to bee selling French marigold seeds are located in other countries. Therefore, my question about local seed sources. > > Thanks > > John Mollerus > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From smhunter@cox.net Wed Oct 8 21:09:41 2003 From: smhunter@cox.net (Shirley) Date: Wed, 08 Oct 2003 14:09:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] az trees Dalbergia Sissoo Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20031008140925.00b1e008@ag.arizona.edu> I am trying to locate information on this particular species of tree. Cannot seem to locate it in your lists. Please advise if you have any info. Need to know if this tree is evergreen in the Phoenix area and how rapidly it grows? Is it recommended for yard planting in an irrigated situation and is it a 'messy' tree?. Thank You. Shirley From pleary6@cox.net Wed Oct 8 21:09:06 2003 From: pleary6@cox.net (Rick Leary) Date: Wed, 08 Oct 2003 14:09:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ocotillo Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20031008140847.01f086d8@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_26852531==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Hi! We planted Ocotillo several weeks ago and it still hasn't turned green with leaves. ? Any suggestions? Initially, we watered and then stopped. Help please. Thanks - Linda "Rick Leary" --=====================_26852531==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Hi!

We planted Ocotillo several weeks ago and it still hasn't turned green with leaves. ?
Any suggestions?

Initially, we watered and then stopped.

Help please.

Thanks - Linda
"Rick Leary" <pleary6@cox.net>
--=====================_26852531==_.ALT-- From je1s@msn.com Wed Oct 8 23:50:47 2003 From: je1s@msn.com (Jane Schoder) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 16:50:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pathology Lab Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0527_01C38DBC.52BB98E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hello Mr. McKusick, Thank you for the prompt response to my request for information about a = desert spoon plant and acacia tree. I have taken root and soil samples as you described. I have the mailing = address of the lab. Is there a fee schedule for lab analysis? Also, if the plant or a tree were subjected to such acts as gasoline = being poured on the plant/ soil around the trunk, would a lab analysis = indicate this condition? Is there a certain length of time beyond which = analysis would not be feasible or would the roots retain the chemicals? Thank you for your attention to this concern. ------=_NextPart_000_0527_01C38DBC.52BB98E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hello = Mr.=20 McKusick,

Thank = you for the=20 prompt response to my request for information about a desert spoon plant = and=20 acacia tree.

I have taken root and soil = samples as you=20 described. I have the mailing address of the lab.

Is there a fee schedule for = lab=20 analysis?

Also, if the plant or a tree = were=20 subjected to such acts as gasoline being poured on the plant/ soil = around the=20 trunk, would a lab analysis indicate this condition? Is there a certain = length=20 of time beyond which analysis would not be feasible or would the roots = retain=20 the chemicals?

Thank you for your attention = to this=20 concern.

------=_NextPart_000_0527_01C38DBC.52BB98E0-- From rodmcq6@highstream.net Wed Oct 8 23:54:22 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 16:54:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Killing bermuda grass References: <008b01c38ba4$fc8aad30$9008570c@tom> Message-ID: <009c01c38df7$80d09e20$d531db43@ibmbna6040> Tom, Killing bermuda grass in your Jasmine bed without killing the jasmine can be accomplished by using an herbicide that has the chemical Flazifop. Be sure to read the instructions. One such herbicide is called "Grass be Gone", There are others on the market. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener Blount" To: Sent: Sunday, October 05, 2003 5:45 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Killing bermuda grass > Can you help me . I have a bed of Asian Jasmine which Bermuda grass is > invading. Can I kill the Bermuda without killing the Jasmine? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rodmcq6@highstream.net Thu Oct 9 00:20:22 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 17:20:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sick Brazillian Pepper Tree References: <20031005065926.40953.qmail@web40506.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <00a701c38dfb$226a37c0$d531db43@ibmbna6040> Bert, The Brazilian Pepper tree is very susceptable to Texas Root Rot ( cotton rot) and particularly if over watered. TRR doesn't always affect all the roots of the tree so you may have sent in to the pathologist roots that were not infected. If the Texas Root Rot fungi are still in the soil they will also attack the tree that is starting to grow and the fungi is active during hot weather. Starting a tree from the growth on an existing stump is not a recommended way to start a tree although I have done it several times. If you want a multiple trunk tree prune off all but a few of the most vigorous shoots. It will be a continuous process of keeping the growth that you do not want removed. Sorry but I would have to guess how long it would take to grow to ten feet tall. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bertrand Kovac" To: Sent: Saturday, October 04, 2003 11:59 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sick Brazillian Pepper Tree > I had a mature pepper tree with multiple trunks of 6 > to 8 inch diameter. Every August it would lose one or > two branches but this year the whole tree turned > brown. > > The arborist I hired offered Cotton Rot as a possible > explanation and cut the tree back to one foot stumps. > > I sent root samples to the Tucson lab' but the plant > pathologist could not identify any pathogen. The tree > was growing in an area where it is very difficult to > control water; next to a golf course. It was not > receiving the same deep waterings that I apply to my > citrus. To water it properly in the future, I will > have to use ahose. Everything else on my property is > on a sprinkler timer. > > During the six weeks since the tree was drastically > cut back, the stumps have produced a luxurious growth > of leafy branches. The new growth is very vigorous. > > Two questions: > > How best to nurture the new growth? > > How long will it take to reach a ten foot height? > > Thanks in advance. > > Bert Keates > > > > ===== > Bertrand Kovac > > __________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search > http://shopping.yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From cstephens@infinet-is.com Thu Oct 9 03:47:46 2003 From: cstephens@infinet-is.com (Charles Stephens) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 20:47:46 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Marigolds and Nematodes References: <9263789.1065653170228.JavaMail.root@wamui03.slb.atl.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <004401c38e18$1bb1c3e0$23da13d8@default> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0041_01C38DDD.6E0C6220 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I too have done some online research on marigolds and nematodes and = have seen some claims, from apparently credible sources, similar to = those that John mentions, and they have all specified French marigolds. = I have also discussed this with Dr. Mary Olsen, the U. of A. Extension = Plant Pathologist. Mary says that while the nematodes won't bother = marigolds, the marigolds won't protect susceptible plants. I've also = heard pretty much the same thing from Terry Mikel, a U.of A. Cooperative = Extension Commercial Horticulture Agent. I can only conclude that the = "experts" disagree on this subject. I would certainly take claims made = by seed vendors with a grain of salt. =20 French marigolds, Tagetes patula, are fairly easy to find but, there are = many different cultivars around. I have seen even seeds at Wal-Mart. = Park Seed is one of several online companies that have them. Most of the = seed packets prominently display the cultivar (variety) name only, you = must read the fine print. There are also several other species of = Tagetes, one of which is the one that Tom mentioned. Tomato plant labels and seed packets may show any or all of the letters = VFTN. A variety with the N is nematode resistant, the V, F and T refer = to resistance to Verticillium wilt, Fusarium wilt and Tobacco mosaic = virus. I have had fairly good luck this year with Celebrity and Champion = tomatoes, both of which are nematode resistant and were suggested by Dr. = Mike McClure, U. of A Nematologist. It is also a good idea to get your = plants into the ground early in the season while the soil is still cool = and the nematodes aren't too active. You will may have to provide some = frost protection. Soil solarization, three year rotation with nonsusceptible crops and = resistant varieties is the most effective strategy that I've been able = to find. If you find some other practical solution, I would be very = interested to hear about it! Best of luck, Charlie, MG, Phx ----- Original Message -----=20 From: watsontl@mindspring.com=20 To: jjmollerus@juno.com ; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2003 3:45 PM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Marigolds and Nematodes French marigolds are not a single type of marigold, but one of several horticultural catagories marigolds are broken down into. So you = won't find a packet of seeds simply labeled French marigold. You might, however, = find some that, in the fine print, describe the variety they contain to be "a = French type" or words to that effect. There are a lot of varieties of French = marigolds. Many of the marigolds sold in nurseries are of the French = type, so you might be able to get what you need by asking for such. There is a specific marigold sold by Seeds of Change (in New Mexico) = that is grown as a cover crop to kill nematodes. The link below will = lead you to it. I doubt you will find this one locally. These are = big plants (up to 7 feet tall) so I don't know how this would work for = your space situation. They are, however, and by all accounts, the most = effective marigold for the job. = http://www.seedsofchange.com/garden_center/product_details.asp?UID=3D2003= 100812281399&item_no=3DPS15493 Can you tell us what sort of plants were damaged by nematodes, and how = you determined that these worms were the cause? Tom -----Original Message----- From: jjmollerus@juno.com Sent: Oct 8, 2003 7:36 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Where in the valley can I buy French marigold seeds? I have nematodes. Soil sterilization has helped but more need to be = done. A local nursery recommended planting marigold seeds with my = tomatoes etc. for nematode relief. Searching the web I found plenty of = info regarding the use of marigolds for nematode control (ex. No. = Carolina Dept of Agriculture at www.ncagr.com/agronomi/nnote1.htm). = However, most of the articles point to the use of French or African = marigolds. The African marigold is rather large and wouldn't fit the = garden. I tried to find French marigold seeds however no luck at = nurseries near me. The seed company catalogs don't seem to carry them. = Can buy them on the web, however the outfits that seem to bee selling = French marigold seeds are located in other countries. Therefore, my = question about local seed sources. Thanks John Mollerus _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener ------=_NextPart_000_0041_01C38DDD.6E0C6220 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I too have done some online research on marigolds and nematodes and = have=20 seen some claims, from apparently credible sources, similar to those = that John=20 mentions, and they have all specified French marigolds. I have = also=20 discussed this with Dr. Mary Olsen, the U. of A. Extension Plant = Pathologist.=20 Mary says that while the nematodes won't bother marigolds, the marigolds = won't=20 protect susceptible plants. I've also heard pretty much the same thing = from=20 Terry Mikel, a U.of A. Cooperative Extension Commercial Horticulture = Agent. I=20 can only conclude that the "experts" disagree on this subject. I would = certainly=20 take claims made by seed vendors with a grain of salt.

French marigolds, Tagetes patula, are fairly easy to find = but,=20 there are many different cultivars around. I have seen even seeds at=20 Wal-Mart. Park Seed is one of several online companies that have = them.=20 Most of the seed packets prominently display the cultivar (variety) name = only,=20 you must read the fine print. There are also several other species = of =20 Tagetes, one of which is the one that Tom mentioned.

Tomato plant labels and seed packets may show any or all of the = letters=20 VFTN. A variety with the N is nematode resistant, the V, F and T refer = to=20 resistance to Verticillium wilt, Fusarium wilt and Tobacco mosaic virus. = I have=20 had fairly good luck this year with Celebrity and Champion tomatoes, = both of=20 which are nematode resistant and were suggested by Dr. Mike McClure, U. = of A=20 Nematologist. It is also a good idea to get your plants into the ground = early in=20 the season while the soil is still cool and the nematodes aren't too = active. You=20 will may have to provide some frost protection.

Soil solarization, three year rotation with nonsusceptible crops = and=20 resistant varieties is the most effective strategy that I've been able = to find.=20 If you find some other practical solution, I would be very interested to = hear=20 about it!

Best of luck,

Charlie, MG, Phx

----- Original Message -----

From:=20 watsontl@mindspring.com

To: jjmollerus@juno.com ; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu =

Sent: Wednesday, October 08, = 2003 3:45=20 PM

Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] = Marigolds=20 and Nematodes

French marigolds are not a single type of marigold, but = one of=20 several
horticultural catagories marigolds are broken down=20 into.   So you won't find a
packet of seeds simply = labeled French=20 marigold.   You might, however, find some
that, in the = fine=20 print, describe the variety they contain to be "a French
type" or = words to=20 that effect. There are a lot of varieties of French=20 marigolds.   Many of the marigolds sold in nurseries are of = the=20 French type, so you might be able to get what you need by asking = for=20 such.

There is a specific marigold sold by Seeds of Change (in = New=20 Mexico) that is grown as a cover crop to kill nematodes.   = The link=20 below will lead you to it.   I doubt you will find this one=20 locally.   These are big plants (up to 7 feet tall) so I = don't know=20 how this would work for your space situation.   They are, = however,=20 and by all accounts, the most effective marigold for the = job.

http://www.seedsofchange.com/= garden_center/product_details.asp?UID=3D2003100812281399&item_no=3DPS= 15493

Can=20 you tell us what sort of plants were damaged by nematodes, and how=20 you
determined that these worms were the=20 cause?

Tom

-----Original Message-----
From: jjmollerus@juno.com
Sent: = Oct 8, 2003=20 7:36 AM
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=
Subject:=20 [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page

Where in the = valley=20 can I buy French marigold seeds?

I have nematodes. Soil = sterilization=20 has helped but more need to be done. A local nursery recommended = planting marigold seeds with my tomatoes etc. for nematode = relief. =20 Searching the web I found plenty of info regarding the use of = marigolds for=20 nematode control (ex. No. Carolina Dept of Agriculture at www.ncagr.com/agronomi/= nnote1.htm). =20 However, most of the articles point to the use of French or African=20 marigolds. The African marigold is rather large and wouldn't fit = the=20 garden. I tried to find French marigold seeds however no luck at = nurseries near me. The seed company catalogs don't seem to carry = them. Can buy them on the web, however the outfits that seem to = bee=20 selling French marigold seeds are located in other countries. = Therefore,=20 my question about local seed sources.

Thanks

John=20 = Mollerus

_______________________________________________
Arid_g= ardener=20 mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu=
http://Ag.A= rizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener

____________________= ___________________________
Arid_gardener=20 mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu=
http://Ag.A= rizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
------=_NextPart_000_0041_01C38DDD.6E0C6220-- From cstephens@infinet-is.com Thu Oct 9 04:27:28 2003 From: cstephens@infinet-is.com (Charles Stephens) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 21:27:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sick Brazillian Pepper Tree References: <20031005065926.40953.qmail@web40506.mail.yahoo.com> <00a701c38dfb$226a37c0$d531db43@ibmbna6040> Message-ID: <005801c38e1d$a7201800$23da13d8@default> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0055_01C38DE2.F9825760 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Terry Mikel, the Commercial Horticulture Agent in the Maricopa County = Cooperative Extension Office, discussed the problem of sick or dieing = Brazilian pepper trees at this Master Gardener update this morning. The problem has been very common in the valley lately and is usually = caused by a combination of our current drought and the soil mix in which = the tree was originally grown. Essentially all of the pepper trees sold in this area are grown in more = humid areas of California and the growers there use a mix which is = nearly all peat moss and vermiculite. This mixture is hydrophobic i.e. = repels water if allowed to dry and becomes extremely difficult to rewet = even when the surrounding soil is quite moist. One can check for this = problem by examining the soil in the area which was in the original = container. If this was the problem, sprinkling or drip irrigation is = unlikely to change the situation. You must use a hose and make sure that = the original root ball is soaked when watering until you are sure that = the tree has adequate roots grown into the native soil. Charlie Stephens Master Gardener Phoenix ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Rod=20 To: Bertrand Kovac=20 Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2003 5:20 PM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Sick Brazillian Pepper Tree Bert, The Brazilian Pepper tree is very susceptable to Texas Root Rot ( = cotton rot) and particularly if over watered. TRR doesn't always affect all = the roots of the tree so you may have sent in to the pathologist roots = that were not infected. If the Texas Root Rot fungi are still in the soil they will also = attack the tree that is starting to grow and the fungi is active during hot = weather. Starting a tree from the growth on an existing stump is not a = recommended way to start a tree although I have done it several times. If you want a multiple trunk tree prune off all but a few of the most vigorous shoots. It will be a continuous process of keeping the growth = that you do not want removed. Sorry but I would have to guess how long it would take to grow to ten = feet tall. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bertrand Kovac" To: Sent: Saturday, October 04, 2003 11:59 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sick Brazillian Pepper Tree > I had a mature pepper tree with multiple trunks of 6 > to 8 inch diameter. Every August it would lose one or > two branches but this year the whole tree turned > brown. > > The arborist I hired offered Cotton Rot as a possible > explanation and cut the tree back to one foot stumps. > > I sent root samples to the Tucson lab' but the plant > pathologist could not identify any pathogen. The tree > was growing in an area where it is very difficult to > control water; next to a golf course. It was not > receiving the same deep waterings that I apply to my > citrus. To water it properly in the future, I will > have to use ahose. Everything else on my property is > on a sprinkler timer. > > During the six weeks since the tree was drastically > cut back, the stumps have produced a luxurious growth > of leafy branches. The new growth is very vigorous. > > Two questions: > > How best to nurture the new growth? > > How long will it take to reach a ten foot height? > > Thanks in advance. > > Bert Keates > > > > =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D > Bertrand Kovac > > __________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search > http://shopping.yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener ------=_NextPart_000_0055_01C38DE2.F9825760 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Terry Mikel, the Commercial Horticulture Agent in the Maricopa = County=20 Cooperative Extension Office, discussed the problem of sick or dieing = Brazilian=20 pepper trees at this Master Gardener update this morning.

The problem has been very common in the valley lately and is = usually=20 caused by a combination of our current drought and the soil mix in which = the=20 tree was originally grown.

Essentially all of the pepper trees sold in this area are grown in = more=20 humid areas of California and the growers there use a mix which is = nearly all=20 peat moss and vermiculite. This mixture is hydrophobic i.e. repels water = if=20 allowed to dry and becomes extremely difficult to rewet even when the=20 surrounding soil is quite moist. One can check for this problem by = examining the=20 soil in the area which was in the original container. If this was the = problem,=20 sprinkling or drip irrigation is unlikely to change the situation. You = must use=20 a hose and make sure that the original root ball is soaked when watering = until=20 you are sure that the tree has adequate roots grown into the native = soil.

Charlie Stephens
Master Gardener
Phoenix

----- Original Message -----

From:=20 Rod=20

To: Bertrand Kovac

Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu =

Sent: Wednesday, October 08, = 2003 5:20=20 PM

Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] = Sick=20 Brazillian Pepper Tree

Bert,
The Brazilian Pepper tree is very susceptable = to Texas=20 Root Rot ( cotton
rot) and particularly if over watered. TRR = doesn't always=20 affect all the
roots of the tree so you may have sent in to the = pathologist=20 roots that were
not infected.
If the Texas Root Rot fungi are=20 still in the soil they will also attack the
tree that is = starting to=20 grow and the fungi is active during hot weather.
Starting a tree = from the=20 growth on an existing stump is not a recommended
way to start a = tree=20 although I have done it several times.
If you want a multiple trunk = tree=20 prune off all but a few of the most
vigorous shoots. It will be a=20 continuous process of keeping the growth that
you do not want=20 removed.
Sorry but I would have to guess how long it would take to = grow to=20 ten feet
tall.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master=20 Gardener

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bertrand Kovac" = <kbert5@yahoo.com>
To: = <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= >
Sent:=20 Saturday, October 04, 2003 11:59 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sick=20 Brazillian Pepper Tree

> I had a mature pepper tree with = multiple trunks of 6
> to 8 inch diameter. Every August it = would=20 lose one or
> two branches but this year the whole tree = turned
>=20 brown.
>
> The arborist I hired offered Cotton Rot as a=20 possible
> explanation and cut the tree back to one foot=20 stumps.
>
> I sent root samples to the Tucson lab' but the = plant
> pathologist could not identify any pathogen. The=20 tree
> was growing in an area where it is very difficult = to
>=20 control water; next to a golf course. It was not
> = receiving the=20 same deep waterings that I apply to my
> citrus. To water = it=20 properly in the future, I will
> have to use ahose. = Everything=20 else on my property is
> on a sprinkler timer.
>
> = During=20 the six weeks since the tree was drastically
> cut back, the = stumps have=20 produced a luxurious growth
> of leafy branches. The new = growth is=20 very vigorous.
>
> Two questions:
>
> How best = to=20 nurture the new growth?
>
> How long will it take to reach = a ten=20 foot height?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Bert=20 Keates
>
>
>
> =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
> = Bertrand=20 Kovac
>
> __________________________________
> Do = you=20 Yahoo!?
> The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product = search
>=20 http://shopping.yahoo.com
> = _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener = mailing=20 list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu=
>=20 http://Ag.A= rizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>

____________= ___________________________________
Arid_gardener=20 mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu=
http://Ag.A= rizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
------=_NextPart_000_0055_01C38DE2.F9825760-- From GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com Thu Oct 9 04:10:08 2003 From: GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com (GardenerGuy) Date: Wed, 08 Oct 2003 21:10:08 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ocotillo In-Reply-To: <5.1.0.14.2.20031008140847.01f086d8@ag.arizona.edu> References: <5.1.0.14.2.20031008140847.01f086d8@ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3F84DFA0.3060508@GardenersCorner.com> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------040503020300030600050103 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ocotillo generally takes some time to get established once planted. As long as the lines running up and down the whips are green you are ok. I wouldn't expect to see any leaves or possibly bloom for about a year. I have seen very few become established sooner than that. I've heard that you can mist the whips to encourage the process, but I have never tried it myself. -- -- Chat with you later... Alan ----- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ***** LIVE Garden Chat Now Available ***** ----- Alan Zelhart GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- One tactical thermonuclear weapon can ruin your whole day Rick Leary (by way of Lucy Bradley ) wrote: > Hi! > > We planted Ocotillo several weeks ago and it still hasn't turned green > with leaves. ? > Any suggestions? > > Initially, we watered and then stopped. > > Help please. > > Thanks - Linda > "Rick Leary" --------------040503020300030600050103 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ocotillo generally takes some time to get established once planted. As long as the lines running up and down the whips are green you are ok. I wouldn't expect to see any leaves or possibly bloom for about a year. I have seen very few become established sooner than that. I've heard that you can mist the whips to encourage the process, but I have never tried it myself.

-- 
--
Chat with you later...
Alan
-----
Chandler, Arizona        Sunset Zone: 13
http://www.GardenersCorner.com
***** LIVE Garden Chat Now Available *****
-----
Alan Zelhart       
GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com
Gardens Co-listowner
http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html
-----
 One tactical thermonuclear weapon can ruin your whole day

Rick Leary (by way of Lucy Bradley ) wrote:

Hi!

We planted Ocotillo several weeks ago and it still hasn't turned green with leaves. ?
Any suggestions?

Initially, we watered and then stopped.

Help please.

Thanks - Linda
"Rick Leary" <pleary6@cox.net>

--------------040503020300030600050103-- From samdeny@juno.com Thu Oct 9 03:13:35 2003 From: samdeny@juno.com (samdeny@juno.com) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 20:13:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310090313.h993DZQ4010144@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like to know if I can plant my tomato plant in the shade of a line of oleander trees. From frostlin@aol.com Thu Oct 9 18:36:13 2003 From: frostlin@aol.com (frostlin@aol.com) Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2003 11:36:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310091836.h99IaDQ4008532@Ag.arizona.edu> Can you tell me why oranges split when they are still on the tree? I have heard that it is probably a water problem, but can't seem to find if it is too much or too little water. Thank you. From mongotu@cox.net Thu Oct 9 12:55:24 2003 From: mongotu@cox.net (Lois Greer) Date: Thu, 09 Oct 2003 12:55:24 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oranges and Grapefruit Message-ID: <20031009195732.ROZA8365.fed1mtao06.cox.net@pavilion> In what season do the fruit ripen? I have a grapefruit/orange tree - had grapefruit when I arrived in July thru August - Now green fruits the size of large oranges that are doing nothing much. Someone said oranges appear at top and grapefruit at bottom, but these lovely green orbs are all over the tree. Lois Greer From sejensen@email.arizona.edu Thu Oct 9 22:06:47 2003 From: sejensen@email.arizona.edu (sejensen@email.arizona.edu) Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2003 15:06:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] root eaters In-Reply-To: <200310091304.h99D4lQ4008488@Ag.arizona.edu> References: <200310091304.h99D4lQ4008488@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <1065737207.6255d80e3b8c0@www.email.arizona.edu> A friend has something caterpillar-looking eating the roots of her tomato and basil plants (so far). It is about an inch long and has a red head and white body -- perhaps a june bug larvae? Diatomaceous earth doesn't seem to be making much of an impact. Any suggestions? Thanks, Sara Quoting arid_gardener-request@Ag.arizona.edu: > Send Arid_gardener mailing list submissions to > arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > arid_gardener-request@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > You can reach the person managing the list at > arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Arid_gardener digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Ocotillo (Rick Leary) > 2. Pathology Lab (Jane Schoder) > 3. Re: Killing bermuda grass (Rod) > 4. Re: Sick Brazillian Pepper Tree (Rod) > 5. Re: Marigolds and Nematodes (Charles Stephens) > 6. Re: Sick Brazillian Pepper Tree (Charles Stephens) > > --__--__-- > > Message: 1 > Date: Wed, 08 Oct 2003 14:09:06 -0700 > To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu > From: "Rick Leary" (by way of Lucy Bradley > ) > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ocotillo > > --=====================_26852531==_.ALT > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed > > Hi! > > We planted Ocotillo several weeks ago and it still hasn't turned green with > leaves. ? > Any suggestions? > > Initially, we watered and then stopped. > > Help please. > > Thanks - Linda > "Rick Leary" > > --=====================_26852531==_.ALT > Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" > > > Hi!
>
> We planted Ocotillo several weeks ago and it > still hasn't turned green with leaves. ?
> Any suggestions?
>
> Initially, we watered and then stopped.
>
> Help please.
>
> Thanks - Linda
> "Rick Leary" <pleary6@cox.net>
> > > --=====================_26852531==_.ALT-- > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 2 > From: "Jane Schoder" > To: > Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 16:50:47 -0700 > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pathology Lab > > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > > ------=_NextPart_000_0527_01C38DBC.52BB98E0 > Content-Type: text/plain; > charset="iso-8859-1" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > Hello Mr. McKusick, > Thank you for the prompt response to my request for information about a = > desert spoon plant and acacia tree. > I have taken root and soil samples as you described. I have the mailing = > address of the lab. > Is there a fee schedule for lab analysis? > Also, if the plant or a tree were subjected to such acts as gasoline = > being poured on the plant/ soil around the trunk, would a lab analysis = > indicate this condition? Is there a certain length of time beyond which = > analysis would not be feasible or would the roots retain the chemicals? > > Thank you for your attention to this concern. > > ------=_NextPart_000_0527_01C38DBC.52BB98E0 > Content-Type: text/html; > charset="iso-8859-1" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > > > content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1> > > > > style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 10px; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; = > COLOR: #000000; BORDER-TOP-STYLE: none; PADDING-TOP: 15px; FONT-STYLE: = > normal; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana; BORDER-RIGHT-STYLE: none; = > BORDER-LEFT-STYLE: none; TEXT-DECORATION: none; BORDER-BOTTOM-STYLE: = > none"=20 > leftMargin=3D0 topMargin=3D0 acc_role=3D"text" CanvasTabStop=3D"true"=20 > name=3D"Compose message area"> /> >

Hello = > Mr.=20 > McKusick,

Thank = > you for the=20 > prompt response to my request for information about a desert spoon plant = > and=20 > acacia tree.

I have taken root and soil = > samples as you=20 > described. I have the mailing address of the lab.

Is there a fee schedule for = > lab=20 > analysis?

Also, if the plant or a tree = > were=20 > subjected to such acts as gasoline being poured on the plant/ soil = > around the=20 > trunk, would a lab analysis indicate this condition? Is there a certain = > length=20 > of time beyond which analysis would not be feasible or would the roots = > retain=20 > the chemicals?

Thank you for your attention = > to this=20 > concern.

size=3D4>

> > ------=_NextPart_000_0527_01C38DBC.52BB98E0-- > > --__--__-- > > Message: 3 > From: "Rod" > To: "Tom Blount" > Cc: > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Killing bermuda grass > Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 16:54:22 -0700 > > Tom, > Killing bermuda grass in your Jasmine bed without killing the jasmine can be > accomplished by using an herbicide that has the chemical Flazifop. Be sure > to read the instructions. One such herbicide is called "Grass be Gone", > There are others on the market. > > Good luck. > > Rod McKusick > Master Gardener > > > Blount" > To: > Sent: Sunday, October 05, 2003 5:45 PM > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Killing bermuda grass > > > > Can you help me . I have a bed of Asian Jasmine which Bermuda grass is > > invading. Can I kill the Bermuda without killing the Jasmine? > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 4 > From: "Rod" > To: "Bertrand Kovac" > Cc: > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Sick Brazillian Pepper Tree > Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 17:20:22 -0700 > > Bert, > The Brazilian Pepper tree is very susceptable to Texas Root Rot ( cotton > rot) and particularly if over watered. TRR doesn't always affect all the > roots of the tree so you may have sent in to the pathologist roots that were > not infected. > If the Texas Root Rot fungi are still in the soil they will also attack the > tree that is starting to grow and the fungi is active during hot weather. > Starting a tree from the growth on an existing stump is not a recommended > way to start a tree although I have done it several times. > If you want a multiple trunk tree prune off all but a few of the most > vigorous shoots. It will be a continuous process of keeping the growth that > you do not want removed. > Sorry but I would have to guess how long it would take to grow to ten feet > tall. > > Good luck. > > Rod McKusick > Master Gardener > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Bertrand Kovac" > To: > Sent: Saturday, October 04, 2003 11:59 PM > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sick Brazillian Pepper Tree > > > > I had a mature pepper tree with multiple trunks of 6 > > to 8 inch diameter. Every August it would lose one or > > two branches but this year the whole tree turned > > brown. > > > > The arborist I hired offered Cotton Rot as a possible > > explanation and cut the tree back to one foot stumps. > > > > I sent root samples to the Tucson lab' but the plant > > pathologist could not identify any pathogen. The tree > > was growing in an area where it is very difficult to > > control water; next to a golf course. It was not > > receiving the same deep waterings that I apply to my > > citrus. To water it properly in the future, I will > > have to use ahose. Everything else on my property is > > on a sprinkler timer. > > > > During the six weeks since the tree was drastically > > cut back, the stumps have produced a luxurious growth > > of leafy branches. The new growth is very vigorous. > > > > Two questions: > > > > How best to nurture the new growth? > > > > How long will it take to reach a ten foot height? > > > > Thanks in advance. > > > > Bert Keates > > > > > > > > ===== > > Bertrand Kovac > > > > __________________________________ > > Do you Yahoo!? > > The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search > > http://shopping.yahoo.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 5 > From: "Charles Stephens" > To: , , > > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Marigolds and Nematodes > Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 20:47:46 -0700 > > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > > ------=_NextPart_000_0041_01C38DDD.6E0C6220 > Content-Type: text/plain; > charset="iso-8859-1" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > I too have done some online research on marigolds and nematodes and = > have seen some claims, from apparently credible sources, similar to = > those that John mentions, and they have all specified French marigolds. = > I have also discussed this with Dr. Mary Olsen, the U. of A. Extension = > Plant Pathologist. Mary says that while the nematodes won't bother = > marigolds, the marigolds won't protect susceptible plants. I've also = > heard pretty much the same thing from Terry Mikel, a U.of A. Cooperative = > Extension Commercial Horticulture Agent. I can only conclude that the = > "experts" disagree on this subject. I would certainly take claims made = > by seed vendors with a grain of salt. > =20 > French marigolds, Tagetes patula, are fairly easy to find but, there are = > many different cultivars around. I have seen even seeds at Wal-Mart. = > Park Seed is one of several online companies that have them. Most of the = > seed packets prominently display the cultivar (variety) name only, you = > must read the fine print. There are also several other species of = > Tagetes, one of which is the one that Tom mentioned. > > Tomato plant labels and seed packets may show any or all of the letters = > VFTN. A variety with the N is nematode resistant, the V, F and T refer = > to resistance to Verticillium wilt, Fusarium wilt and Tobacco mosaic = > virus. I have had fairly good luck this year with Celebrity and Champion = > tomatoes, both of which are nematode resistant and were suggested by Dr. = > Mike McClure, U. of A Nematologist. It is also a good idea to get your = > plants into the ground early in the season while the soil is still cool = > and the nematodes aren't too active. You will may have to provide some = > frost protection. > > Soil solarization, three year rotation with nonsusceptible crops and = > resistant varieties is the most effective strategy that I've been able = > to find. If you find some other practical solution, I would be very = > interested to hear about it! > > Best of luck, > Charlie, MG, Phx > > ----- Original Message -----=20 > From: watsontl@mindspring.com=20 > To: jjmollerus@juno.com ; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 > Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2003 3:45 PM > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Marigolds and Nematodes > > > French marigolds are not a single type of marigold, but one of several > horticultural catagories marigolds are broken down into. So you = > won't find a > packet of seeds simply labeled French marigold. You might, however, = > find some > that, in the fine print, describe the variety they contain to be "a = > French > type" or words to that effect. There are a lot of varieties of French = > marigolds. Many of the marigolds sold in nurseries are of the French = > type, so you might be able to get what you need by asking for such. > > There is a specific marigold sold by Seeds of Change (in New Mexico) = > that is grown as a cover crop to kill nematodes. The link below will = > lead you to it. I doubt you will find this one locally. These are = > big plants (up to 7 feet tall) so I don't know how this would work for = > your space situation. They are, however, and by all accounts, the most = > effective marigold for the job. > > = > http://www.seedsofchange.com/garden_center/product_details.asp?UID=3D2003= > 100812281399&item_no=3DPS15493 > > Can you tell us what sort of plants were damaged by nematodes, and how = > you > determined that these worms were the cause? > > Tom > > > -----Original Message----- > From: jjmollerus@juno.com > Sent: Oct 8, 2003 7:36 AM > To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > Where in the valley can I buy French marigold seeds? > > I have nematodes. Soil sterilization has helped but more need to be = > done. A local nursery recommended planting marigold seeds with my = > tomatoes etc. for nematode relief. Searching the web I found plenty of = > info regarding the use of marigolds for nematode control (ex. No. = > Carolina Dept of Agriculture at www.ncagr.com/agronomi/nnote1.htm). = > However, most of the articles point to the use of French or African = > marigolds. The African marigold is rather large and wouldn't fit the = > garden. I tried to find French marigold seeds however no luck at = > nurseries near me. The seed company catalogs don't seem to carry them. = > Can buy them on the web, however the outfits that seem to bee selling = > French marigold seeds are located in other countries. Therefore, my = > question about local seed sources. > > Thanks > > John Mollerus > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > ------=_NextPart_000_0041_01C38DDD.6E0C6220 > Content-Type: text/html; > charset="iso-8859-1" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > > > http-equiv=3DContent-Type> > > > > >

I too have done some online research on marigolds and nematodes and = > have=20 > seen some claims, from apparently credible sources, similar to those = > that John=20 > mentions, and they have all specified French marigolds. I have = > also=20 > discussed this with Dr. Mary Olsen, the U. of A. Extension Plant = > Pathologist.=20 > Mary says that while the nematodes won't bother marigolds, the marigolds = > won't=20 > protect susceptible plants. I've also heard pretty much the same thing = > from=20 > Terry Mikel, a U.of A. Cooperative Extension Commercial Horticulture = > Agent. I=20 > can only conclude that the "experts" disagree on this subject. I would = > certainly=20 > take claims made by seed vendors with a grain of salt.

French marigolds, Tagetes patula, are fairly easy to find = > but,=20 > there are many different cultivars around. I have seen even seeds at=20 > Wal-Mart. Park Seed is one of several online companies that have = > them.=20 > Most of the seed packets prominently display the cultivar (variety) name = > only,=20 > you must read the fine print. There are also several other species = > of =20 > Tagetes, one of which is the one that Tom mentioned.

Tomato plant labels and seed packets may show any or all of the = > letters=20 > VFTN. A variety with the N is nematode resistant, the V, F and T refer = > to=20 > resistance to Verticillium wilt, Fusarium wilt and Tobacco mosaic virus. = > I have=20 > had fairly good luck this year with Celebrity and Champion tomatoes, = > both of=20 > which are nematode resistant and were suggested by Dr. Mike McClure, U. = > of A=20 > Nematologist. It is also a good idea to get your plants into the ground = > early in=20 > the season while the soil is still cool and the nematodes aren't too = > active. You=20 > will may have to provide some frost protection.

Soil solarization, three year rotation with nonsusceptible crops = > and=20 > resistant varieties is the most effective strategy that I've been able = > to find.=20 > If you find some other practical solution, I would be very interested to = > hear=20 > about it!

Best of luck,

Charlie, MG, Phx

> style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: = > 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px"> >

----- Original Message -----

> style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: = > black">From:=20 > title=3Dwatsontl@mindspring.com>watsontl@mindspring.com >

To: href=3D"mailto:jjmollerus@juno.com"=20 > title=3Djjmollerus@juno.com>jjmollerus@juno.com ; href=3D"mailto:arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu"=20 > title=3Darid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu = >

Sent: Wednesday, October 08, = > 2003 3:45=20 > PM

Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] = > Marigolds=20 > and Nematodes

French marigolds are not a single type of marigold, but = > one of=20 > several
horticultural catagories marigolds are broken down=20 > into.   So you won't find a
packet of seeds simply = > labeled French=20 > marigold.   You might, however, find some
that, in the = > fine=20 > print, describe the variety they contain to be "a French
type" or = > words to=20 > that effect. There are a lot of varieties of French=20 > marigolds.   Many of the marigolds sold in nurseries are of = > the=20 > French type, so you might be able to get what you need by asking = > for=20 > such.

There is a specific marigold sold by Seeds of Change (in = > New=20 > Mexico) that is grown as a cover crop to kill nematodes.   = > The link=20 > below will lead you to it.   I doubt you will find this one=20 > locally.   These are big plants (up to 7 feet tall) so I = > don't know=20 > how this would work for your space situation.   They are, = > however,=20 > and by all accounts, the most effective marigold for the = > job.

= > href=3D"http://www.seedsofchange.com/garden_center/product_details.asp?UI= > D=3D2003100812281399&item_no=3DPS15493">http://www.seedsofchange.com/= > garden_center/product_details.asp?UID=3D2003100812281399&item_no=3DPS= > 15493

Can=20 > you tell us what sort of plants were damaged by nematodes, and how=20 > you
determined that these worms were the=20 > cause?

Tom

-----Original Message-----
From: href=3D"mailto:jjmollerus@juno.com">jjmollerus@juno.com
Sent: = > Oct 8, 2003=20 > 7:36 AM
To: = > href=3D"mailto:arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu">arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= >
Subject:=20 > [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page

Where in the = > valley=20 > can I buy French marigold seeds?

I have nematodes. Soil = > sterilization=20 > has helped but more need to be done. A local nursery recommended = > > planting marigold seeds with my tomatoes etc. for nematode = > relief. =20 > Searching the web I found plenty of info regarding the use of = > marigolds for=20 > nematode control (ex. No. Carolina Dept of Agriculture at = > href=3D"http://www.ncagr.com/agronomi/nnote1.htm">www.ncagr.com/agronomi/= > nnote1.htm). =20 > However, most of the articles point to the use of French or African=20 > marigolds. The African marigold is rather large and wouldn't fit = > the=20 > garden. I tried to find French marigold seeds however no luck at = > > nurseries near me. The seed company catalogs don't seem to carry = > > them. Can buy them on the web, however the outfits that seem to = > bee=20 > selling French marigold seeds are located in other countries. = > Therefore,=20 > my question about local seed sources.

Thanks

John=20 > = > Mollerus

_______________________________________________
Arid_g= > ardener=20 > mailing list
= > href=3D"mailto:Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu">Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu= >
= > href=3D"http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener">http://Ag.A= > rizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener

____________________= > ___________________________
Arid_gardener=20 > mailing list
= > href=3D"mailto:Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu">Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu= >
= > href=3D"http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener">http://Ag.A= > rizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
ML> > > ------=_NextPart_000_0041_01C38DDD.6E0C6220-- > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 6 > From: "Charles Stephens" > To: "Rod" , "Bertrand Kovac" > Cc: > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Sick Brazillian Pepper Tree > Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 21:27:28 -0700 > > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > > ------=_NextPart_000_0055_01C38DE2.F9825760 > Content-Type: text/plain; > charset="iso-8859-1" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > Terry Mikel, the Commercial Horticulture Agent in the Maricopa County = > Cooperative Extension Office, discussed the problem of sick or dieing = > Brazilian pepper trees at this Master Gardener update this morning. > The problem has been very common in the valley lately and is usually = > caused by a combination of our current drought and the soil mix in which = > the tree was originally grown. > Essentially all of the pepper trees sold in this area are grown in more = > humid areas of California and the growers there use a mix which is = > nearly all peat moss and vermiculite. This mixture is hydrophobic i.e. = > repels water if allowed to dry and becomes extremely difficult to rewet = > even when the surrounding soil is quite moist. One can check for this = > problem by examining the soil in the area which was in the original = > container. If this was the problem, sprinkling or drip irrigation is = > unlikely to change the situation. You must use a hose and make sure that = > the original root ball is soaked when watering until you are sure that = > the tree has adequate roots grown into the native soil. > > Charlie Stephens > Master Gardener > Phoenix > > > ----- Original Message -----=20 > From: Rod=20 > To: Bertrand Kovac=20 > Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 > Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2003 5:20 PM > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Sick Brazillian Pepper Tree > > > Bert, > The Brazilian Pepper tree is very susceptable to Texas Root Rot ( = > cotton > rot) and particularly if over watered. TRR doesn't always affect all = > the > roots of the tree so you may have sent in to the pathologist roots = > that were > not infected. > If the Texas Root Rot fungi are still in the soil they will also = > attack the > tree that is starting to grow and the fungi is active during hot = > weather. > Starting a tree from the growth on an existing stump is not a = > recommended > way to start a tree although I have done it several times. > If you want a multiple trunk tree prune off all but a few of the most > vigorous shoots. It will be a continuous process of keeping the growth = > that > you do not want removed. > Sorry but I would have to guess how long it would take to grow to ten = > feet > tall. > > Good luck. > > Rod McKusick > Master Gardener > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Bertrand Kovac" > To: > Sent: Saturday, October 04, 2003 11:59 PM > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sick Brazillian Pepper Tree > > > > I had a mature pepper tree with multiple trunks of 6 > > to 8 inch diameter. Every August it would lose one or > > two branches but this year the whole tree turned > > brown. > > > > The arborist I hired offered Cotton Rot as a possible > > explanation and cut the tree back to one foot stumps. > > > > I sent root samples to the Tucson lab' but the plant > > pathologist could not identify any pathogen. The tree > > was growing in an area where it is very difficult to > > control water; next to a golf course. It was not > > receiving the same deep waterings that I apply to my > > citrus. To water it properly in the future, I will > > have to use ahose. Everything else on my property is > > on a sprinkler timer. > > > > During the six weeks since the tree was drastically > > cut back, the stumps have produced a luxurious growth > > of leafy branches. The new growth is very vigorous. > > > > Two questions: > > > > How best to nurture the new growth? > > > > How long will it take to reach a ten foot height? > > > > Thanks in advance. > > > > Bert Keates > > > > > > > > =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D > > Bertrand Kovac > > > > __________________________________ > > Do you Yahoo!? > > The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search > > http://shopping.yahoo.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > ------=_NextPart_000_0055_01C38DE2.F9825760 > Content-Type: text/html; > charset="iso-8859-1" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > > > http-equiv=3DContent-Type> > > > > >

Terry Mikel, the Commercial Horticulture Agent in the Maricopa = > County=20 > Cooperative Extension Office, discussed the problem of sick or dieing = > Brazilian=20 > pepper trees at this Master Gardener update this morning.

The problem has been very common in the valley lately and is = > usually=20 > caused by a combination of our current drought and the soil mix in which = > the=20 > tree was originally grown.

Essentially all of the pepper trees sold in this area are grown in = > more=20 > humid areas of California and the growers there use a mix which is = > nearly all=20 > peat moss and vermiculite. This mixture is hydrophobic i.e. repels water = > if=20 > allowed to dry and becomes extremely difficult to rewet even when the=20 > surrounding soil is quite moist. One can check for this problem by = > examining the=20 > soil in the area which was in the original container. If this was the = > problem,=20 > sprinkling or drip irrigation is unlikely to change the situation. You = > must use=20 > a hose and make sure that the original root ball is soaked when watering = > until=20 > you are sure that the tree has adequate roots grown into the native = > soil.

Charlie Stephens
Master Gardener
Phoenix

> style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: = > 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px"> >

----- Original Message -----

> style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: = > black">From:=20 > title=3Drodmcq6@highstream.net>Rod=20 > >

To: href=3D"mailto:kbert5@yahoo.com"=20 > title=3Dkbert5@yahoo.com>Bertrand Kovac

Cc: href=3D"mailto:arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu"=20 > title=3Darid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu = >

Sent: Wednesday, October 08, = > 2003 5:20=20 > PM

Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] = > Sick=20 > Brazillian Pepper Tree

Bert,
The Brazilian Pepper tree is very susceptable = > to Texas=20 > Root Rot ( cotton
rot) and particularly if over watered. TRR = > doesn't always=20 > affect all the
roots of the tree so you may have sent in to the = > pathologist=20 > roots that were
not infected.
If the Texas Root Rot fungi are=20 > still in the soil they will also attack the
tree that is = > starting to=20 > grow and the fungi is active during hot weather.
Starting a tree = > from the=20 > growth on an existing stump is not a recommended
way to start a = > tree=20 > although I have done it several times.
If you want a multiple trunk = > tree=20 > prune off all but a few of the most
vigorous shoots. It will be a=20 > continuous process of keeping the growth that
you do not want=20 > removed.
Sorry but I would have to guess how long it would take to = > grow to=20 > ten feet
tall.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master=20 > Gardener

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bertrand Kovac" = > < href=3D"mailto:kbert5@yahoo.com">kbert5@yahoo.com>
To: = > < = > href=3D"mailto:arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu">arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= > >
Sent:=20 > Saturday, October 04, 2003 11:59 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sick=20 > Brazillian Pepper Tree

> I had a mature pepper tree with = > > multiple trunks of 6
> to 8 inch diameter. Every August it = > would=20 > lose one or
> two branches but this year the whole tree = > turned
>=20 > brown.
>
> The arborist I hired offered Cotton Rot as a=20 > possible
> explanation and cut the tree back to one foot=20 > stumps.
>
> I sent root samples to the Tucson lab' but the = > > plant
> pathologist could not identify any pathogen. The=20 > tree
> was growing in an area where it is very difficult = > to
>=20 > control water; next to a golf course. It was not
> = > receiving the=20 > same deep waterings that I apply to my
> citrus. To water = > it=20 > properly in the future, I will
> have to use ahose. = > Everything=20 > else on my property is
> on a sprinkler timer.
>
> = > During=20 > the six weeks since the tree was drastically
> cut back, the = > stumps have=20 > produced a luxurious growth
> of leafy branches. The new = > growth is=20 > very vigorous.
>
> Two questions:
>
> How best = > to=20 > nurture the new growth?
>
> How long will it take to reach = > a ten=20 > foot height?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Bert=20 > Keates
>
>
>
> =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
> = > Bertrand=20 > Kovac
>
> __________________________________
> Do = > you=20 > Yahoo!?
> The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product = > search
>=20 > href=3D"http://shopping.yahoo.com">http://shopping.yahoo.com
> = > > _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener = > mailing=20 > list
> = > href=3D"mailto:Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu">Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu= >
>=20 > = > href=3D"http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener">http://Ag.A= > rizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>

____________= > ___________________________________
Arid_gardener=20 > mailing list
= > href=3D"mailto:Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu">Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu= >
= > href=3D"http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener">http://Ag.A= > rizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
ML> > > ------=_NextPart_000_0055_01C38DE2.F9825760-- > > > > --__--__-- > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > End of Arid_gardener Digest > From rodmcq6@highstream.net Thu Oct 9 23:14:56 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2003 16:14:56 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oranges and Grapefruit References: <20031009195732.ROZA8365.fed1mtao06.cox.net@pavilion> Message-ID: <004301c38ebb$28de6d40$6004e043@ibmbna6040> Lois, A citrus tree that produces both grapefruit and oranges started out as one or the other, probably a grapefruit tree, the orange cuttings were then grafted to the grapefruit tree at one or more spots. If the grafts did not take the tree would remain a grapefruit tree. Grapefruit and naval oranges will start to ripen in November, sweet oranges in December and valencia oranges in March. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ---- Original Message ----- From: "Lois Greer" To: Sent: Thursday, October 09, 2003 5:55 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oranges and Grapefruit > In what season do the fruit ripen? I have a grapefruit/orange tree - had > grapefruit > when I arrived in July thru August - Now green fruits the size of large > oranges that > are doing nothing much. Someone said oranges appear at top and grapefruit > at bottom, but these lovely green orbs are all over the tree. > > Lois Greer > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rodmcq6@highstream.net Thu Oct 9 22:49:15 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2003 15:49:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] az trees Dalbergia Sissoo References: <5.1.0.14.2.20031008140925.00b1e008@ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <001b01c38eb7$96d1d840$6004e043@ibmbna6040> The Sissoo tree appears to be an excellent choice for a residential or a commercial shade tree. It is fast growing, quite clean, grows to 30 to 50 feet high and is classed as simi evergreen. If planted in a turf area as with any other tree it should have supplimental deep irrigation periodically. When young the Sissoo can be damaged by temperatures in the high 20s and should be covered if the forcast is for high 20s. I take care of a property where we have planted approximately 50 Sissoo trees over the past 4 years and am most happy with this tree. Should you care to see these trees they are located at 933 N. Lindsay in Mesa. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ----- Original Message ----- From: "Shirley (by way of Lucy Bradley )" To: Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2003 2:09 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] az trees Dalbergia Sissoo > I am trying to locate information on this particular species of tree. > Cannot seem to locate it in your lists. Please advise if you have any info. > Need to know if this tree is evergreen in the Phoenix area and how rapidly > it grows? Is it recommended for yard planting in an irrigated situation and > is it a 'messy' tree?. Thank You. > > > Shirley > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From cstephens@infinet-is.com Thu Oct 9 22:58:00 2003 From: cstephens@infinet-is.com (Charles Stephens) Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2003 15:58:00 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oranges and Grapefruit--Harvest Dates References: <20031009195732.ROZA8365.fed1mtao06.cox.net@pavilion> Message-ID: <008801c38eb8$cb461400$08da13d8@default> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0083_01C38E7E.1D345BE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Lois, Ripening times vary for different varieties. The publication Low Desert = Citrus Varieties has a chart showing harvest times for the common = varieties. Availabe at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1001.pdf. Charlie Stephens Master Gardener Phoenix ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Lois Greer=20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Thursday, October 09, 2003 5:55 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oranges and Grapefruit In what season do the fruit ripen? I have a grapefruit/orange tree - = had grapefruit when I arrived in July thru August - Now green fruits the size of = large oranges that are doing nothing much. Someone said oranges appear at top and = grapefruit at bottom, but these lovely green orbs are all over the tree. Lois Greer=20 _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener ------=_NextPart_000_0083_01C38E7E.1D345BE0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Lois,

Ripening times vary for different varieties. The publication Low = Desert=20 Citrus Varieties has a chart showing harvest times for the common = varieties.=20 Availabe at http://ag.arizona.e= du/pubs/garden/az1001.pdf.

Charlie Stephens
Master Gardener
Phoenix

----- Original Message -----

From:=20 Lois = Greer

To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu =

Sent: Thursday, October 09, = 2003 5:55=20 AM

Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Oranges and=20 Grapefruit

In what season do the fruit ripen? I have a=20 grapefruit/orange tree - had
grapefruit
when I arrived in July = thru=20 August - Now green fruits the size of large
oranges that
are = doing=20 nothing much. Someone said oranges appear at top and = grapefruit
at=20 bottom, but these lovely green orbs are all over the tree.

Lois = Greer=20 =

_______________________________________________
Arid_g= ardener=20 mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu=
http://Ag.A= rizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
------=_NextPart_000_0083_01C38E7E.1D345BE0-- From ReneeDelgado@wincup.com Thu Oct 9 21:00:38 2003 From: ReneeDelgado@wincup.com (Renee Delgado) Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2003 14:00:38 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Summer Lawns Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C38EA8.6436C1F9 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Dear Arid Gardener =20 I happened upon your exchange with someone about summer bermuda and = winter rye here in AZ. I am in Gilbert AZ. I do this routine, however my = HOA doesn't like the time between the thin dead looking bermuda and when = it's finally time to seed with the rye. I also have the added problem = that I have 3 wonderful full trees in my small grass area. The yards in = the zero lot line community aren't very big to begin with. I love having = the small lawn and the trees shade and cool my home so getting rid of = them is not an option. Is there a grass that is more shade tolerant = during the summer? Or even one that might last yearound? The rye does = fine in the winter. My water bill is small since it is such a small area = so if I had to water a little more, it's not a real big problem.=20 =20 I appreciate any help you can give.=20 =20 Thanks =20 See Ya Renee Delgado There are two kinds of pedestrians -- the quick and the dead.=20 =20 ------_=_NextPart_001_01C38EA8.6436C1F9 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Dear Arid Gardener

I happened upon your exchange with someone = about summer=20 bermuda and winter rye here in AZ. I am in Gilbert AZ. I do this = routine,=20 however my HOA doesn't like the time between the thin dead looking = bermuda and=20 when it's finally time to seed with the rye. I also have the added = problem that=20 I have 3 wonderful full trees in my small grass area. The yards in the = zero lot=20 line community aren't very big to begin with. I love having the small = lawn and=20 the trees shade and cool my home so getting rid of them is not an = option. Is=20 there a grass that is more shade tolerant during the summer? Or even one = that=20 might last yearound? The rye does fine in the winter. My water bill is = small=20 since it is such a small area so if I had to water a little more, it's = not a=20 real big problem.

I appreciate any help you can give.=20

Thanks

See = Ya

Renee Delgado

There are two = kinds of=20 pedestrians -- the quick and the dead.

------_=_NextPart_001_01C38EA8.6436C1F9-- From LevineMarc@cox.net Thu Oct 9 20:32:09 2003 From: LevineMarc@cox.net (Marc) Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2003 13:32:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvilla question for Mailing List Message-ID: <000e01c38ea4$6a0b1dc0$7000a8c0@Marc> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C38E69.BD7EF430 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I would like to dig a hole in my lawn and plant bougainvilla. It will = be trained on a trellis against a block wall. In the summer the lawn is = watered 3 times a day, and every other day in the winter. Also, the area I want to plant gets approximately 5 hours of afternoon = sun in the summer, and a bit less in the winter. Here are my questions: 1) Will the water from the sprinklers prevent = the (normally drought tolerant) plant from thriving? 2) Will the 5 = hours of sun be enough for it to flourish? Thanks! Marc ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C38E69.BD7EF430 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I would like to dig a hole in my lawn = and=20 plant bougainvilla. It will be trained on a trellis = against=20 a block wall. In the summer the lawn is watered 3 times a = day, and=20 every other day in the winter.

Also, the area I want to plant gets = approximately 5=20 hours of afternoon sun in the summer, and a bit less in the = winter.

Here are my questions: 1) Will = the water from=20 the sprinklers prevent the (normally drought tolerant) plant from=20 thriving? 2) Will the 5 hours of sun be enough for it to=20 flourish?

Thanks!

Marc

------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C38E69.BD7EF430-- From je1s@msn.com Fri Oct 10 00:06:02 2003 From: je1s@msn.com (Jane Schoder) Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2003 17:06:02 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lab Fee Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0549_01C38E87.9E567060 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Rod, Again, thank you for the courtesy of a (very) prompt response. I have used a soil lab in Tempe. I'll contact them. Thanks, Jane Schoder ------=_NextPart_000_0549_01C38E87.9E567060 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Rod,

Again, thank = you for the=20 courtesy of a (very) prompt response.

I have used a = soil lab in=20 Tempe. I'll contact them.

Thanks,

Jane = Schoder

------=_NextPart_000_0549_01C38E87.9E567060-- From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net Thu Oct 9 21:55:48 2003 From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2003 14:55:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oranges and Grapefruit References: <20031009195732.ROZA8365.fed1mtao06.cox.net@pavilion> Message-ID: <000601c38eb0$20bdbe00$4a52530c@olin> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lois Greer" Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oranges and Grapefruit > In what season do the fruit ripen? I have a grapefruit/orange tree - had > grapefruit > when I arrived in July thru August - Now green fruits the size of large > oranges that > are doing nothing much. Someone said oranges appear at top and grapefruit > at bottom, but these lovely green orbs are all over the tree. > > Lois Greer Depends on the variety. Some AZ Sweet varieties will be ready in a few weeks and are still good picked from the tree for few months. Valencias won't be ready until February and can be left on the tree until about June. Other varieties ripen between these dates. Most citrus stores better on the tree than in the fridge. Most grapefruit varieties can be picked in December. We leave ours on the tree until mid June. Take a look at the publication at http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1001.pdf to see if you can identify yours. Olin From rodmcq6@highstream.net Thu Oct 9 23:44:46 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2003 16:44:46 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Spurge References: <200310082302.h98N2GQ4003814@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <005301c38ebf$533e5ec0$6004e043@ibmbna6040> The weed you describe sounds like a weed called Spurge. It is not an easy weed to eliminate because of the vast number of seeds it grows. When you kill the plant with an herbicide the seeds are not killed and remain to grow again. Next spring apply a preemergent herbicide which will help to prevent the seeds from sprouting. Any seeds that are missed you should be able to kill when they are young with a Weed and Feed fertilizer. It probably will take two to three years before you have complete control. Be sure to keep the grass healthy with monthly fertilization and adequate water during the growing season and cut the grass at at 2 to 2 1/2 inches to provide shade for the weed. When the spurge is away from the grass it can be killed with Roundup. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2003 4:02 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I have a question about a weed infestation that I have in my front yard. There is a single type of weed that is growing in the yard, and it's so successful that it is killing whole patches of grass. > > I'll try to describe it: It's short, each plant is a single stem, maybe 5 inches long max. The stem and leaves are a reddish-green color. Each plant has numerous leaves that branch off in pairs directly from the stem. There are no branches off the stem otherwise. There are what appear to be small seed bundles along the stem, in between the leaf pairs. It grows only in direct sunlight. > > Basically, there are a million of these little buggers growing in the front yard, and they are so successful that despite their diminutive size they are taking over and killing the grass. They started growing this summer, and I tried pulling them, but inevitably I would miss a whole lot. I've tried a spray-on "kill the weeds not the grass" type herbicide that is supposedly good for killing broad-leaf plants, but this weed just laughed it off and thanked me for watering it. > > I'm sure a picture would help, and I will gladly take one upon request. Alternatively, I could stop by with a sample of the plant. > > Could I please get some advice as to what kind of steps I can take to kill this while hopefully not killing the grass? Worst case scenario, my front yard (it's small) goes desert landscape, but I need to know how to kill this thing in case it spreads to the back yard, which I can't turn desert. > > Thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From Delu1234@aol.com Fri Oct 10 01:47:48 2003 From: Delu1234@aol.com (Delu1234@aol.com) Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2003 18:47:48 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310100147.h9A1lmQ4024323@Ag.arizona.edu> All the leaves on two of my hibiscus bushes suddenly wilted and dropped off. What would cause that? From je1s@msn.com Fri Oct 10 00:27:21 2003 From: je1s@msn.com (Jane Schoder) Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2003 17:27:21 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tree Selection and Drip Irrigation vs. Soaker Hose Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_055B_01C38E8A.98D60620 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_001_055C_01C38E8A.98D60620" ------=_NextPart_001_055C_01C38E8A.98D60620 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Rod, Just thought of these 2 questions after I hit "send". I would like to plant trees that would serve as a privacy screen in the = event=20 houses are built in the lots behind my house. I am considering Sweet Acacias and Mulga Anueras because of their : = low-water requirements, evergreen, and aesthetics. Will these 2 acacias = reach a sufficient height, and will their canopies be wide and dense = enough? Or should I choose trees that grow taller? My backyard is roughly 60 feet across( back wall) and 125 feet (side = walls). There is a 3 yr. old Sweet Acacia at one end of the 60' wall = and a yr.-old Mulga at the other end. There is an adult Acacia Saligna = on one of the side walls. Currently my existing trees are on drip irrigation. I have moved the = lines out under the canopies. A nurseryman suggested that a soaker hose = left on overnight is more beneficial to foster wider and deeper root = growth. I do own a soaker hose. I'd appreciate your insight. Thanks, Jane Schoder Ps I take trees very seriously. I landscaped (xeriscape) my front and = backyards before I bought furniture. I also take classes offered by the = City of Glendale. ------=_NextPart_001_055C_01C38E8A.98D60620 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Rod,

Just thought of these 2 = questions after I=20 hit "send".

I would like to plant trees = that would=20 serve as a privacy screen in the event

houses are built in the lots = behind my=20 house.

I am considering Sweet = Acacias and Mulga=20 Anueras because of their : low-water requirements, evergreen, and = aesthetics.=20 Will these 2 acacias reach a sufficient height, and will their canopies = be wide=20 and dense enough? Or should I choose trees that grow = taller?

My backyard is = roughly 60=20 feet across( back wall) and 125 feet (side = walls). =20 There is a 3 yr. old Sweet Acacia at one end of the 60' wall and a = yr.-old Mulga=20 at the other end. There is an adult Acacia Saligna on one of the side=20 walls.

Currently my existing trees = are on drip=20 irrigation. I have moved the lines out under the canopies. A nurseryman=20 suggested that a soaker hose left on overnight is more beneficial=20 to foster wider and deeper root growth. I do own a soaker=20 hose.

I'd appreciate your = insight.

Thanks,

Jane Schoder

Ps I take trees very = seriously. I=20 landscaped (xeriscape) my front and backyards before I bought=20 furniture. 3D"Smiley

I also=20 take classes offered by the City of Glendale.

------=_NextPart_001_055C_01C38E8A.98D60620-- ------=_NextPart_000_055B_01C38E8A.98D60620 Content-Type: image/gif; name="Emoticon1.gif" Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 Content-ID: <055a01c38ec5$452d3d00$5b6abacd@q8m4j8> R0lGODlhEwATALMPAPXv3v3pTvDHOei2K9u4a9qoLunPkLGLMdOZKfvbQMeyl5p4J+7JbrebXoAy GAAAACH5BAEAAA8ALAAAAAATABMAAASu8EkJDBNjMAOmf5UgJEGQJBj3AVfpuslAdBRDvu8p04YQ CIuFrzQIDgQFA2i4AAAWruYTgwiVFopnNCsUICy3hUMBvY67hcYwIHaU2Q43ZnAYuIDCUixYmC8G NzgmJyIZBQcXgYMnKIUDCA09jA4FgCcFCA4ZdFlHl5SbmQiGBx0GR0iZcXEIo5wUBH1ImK2tGQcN NCCxm70Dh7krBq2VvwgHB1kfExUNBwu4yh4RADs= ------=_NextPart_000_055B_01C38E8A.98D60620-- From mariawildflower@hotmail.com Fri Oct 10 04:35:54 2003 From: mariawildflower@hotmail.com (mariawildflower@hotmail.com) Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2003 21:35:54 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310100435.h9A4ZsQ4013458@Ag.arizona.edu> If I graft a schley pecan onto a cheyenne pecan will the schley take on the dwarf qualities of the cheyenne? From gwright@Ag.arizona.edu Fri Oct 10 15:32:19 2003 From: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu (Glenn C. Wright) Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2003 08:32:19 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oranges and grapefruit Message-ID: <5.1.1.6.2.20031010082609.02cddb00@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_84668000==.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed From: "Lois Greer" To: Sent: Thursday, October 09, 2003 5:55 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oranges and Grapefruit > In what season do the fruit ripen? I have a grapefruit/orange tree - had > grapefruit > when I arrived in July thru August - Now green fruits the size of large > oranges that > are doing nothing much. Someone said oranges appear at top and grapefruit > at bottom, but these lovely green orbs are all over the tree. > > Lois Greer Dear Ms. Greer: It is easy to tell the difference between oranges and grapefruit even when the fruit are still green, and the shape is similar. Simply examine the leaves that are closest to the fruit you are interested. You will note that each leaf is attached to the branch by a short stem. That "leaf stem" is known as the petiole. You will also note that the petiole has two small leafy "wings" on it. If the wings are rounded, and if together they form a shape similar to a heart, then you have a grapefruit stem. Alternatively, if the wings are narrow, you have an orange stem. Best regards, GCW Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D. Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist University of Arizona - Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center 2186 W. County 15th Street Somerton, AZ 85350 Phone: 928-726-0458 FAX: 928-726-1363 e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu --=====================_84668000==.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" From: "Lois Greer" <mongotu@cox.net>
To: <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Sent: Thursday, October 09, 2003 5:55 AM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oranges and Grapefruit

> In what season do the fruit ripen? I have a grapefruit/orange tree - had
> grapefruit
> when I arrived in July thru August - Now green fruits the size of large
> oranges that
> are doing nothing much. Someone said oranges appear at top and grapefruit
> at bottom, but these lovely green orbs are all over the tree.
>
> Lois Greer

Dear Ms. Greer:
It is easy to tell the difference between oranges and grapefruit even when the fruit are still green, and the shape is similar. Simply examine the leaves that are closest to the fruit you are interested. You will note that each leaf is attached to the branch by a short stem. That "leaf stem" is known as the petiole. You will also note that the petiole has two small leafy "wings" on it. If the wings are rounded, and if together they form a shape similar to a heart, then you have a grapefruit stem. Alternatively, if the wings are narrow, you have an orange stem.

Best regards,
GCW

Marc,

The amount of sunshine that will be available for = the=20 Bougainvillea that you intend to plant is borderline, but the plant = would=20 probably grow with nothing but green leaves and little if any color = with=20 the amount of water that grass receives. With that much water the leaves = would=20 probably yellow.

Incidentally your irrigation schedule for your grass = will lead=20 to problems in the future. Grass will be far healthier if watered every = 2 to 3=20 days during summer and once a week during the winter if you over seed = with rye.=20 If you do not overseed with rye grass watering once a month in winter is = adequate.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick

Master Gardener

----- Original Message -----

From:=20 Marc
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= =20

Sent: Thursday, October 09, = 2003 1:32=20 PM

Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Bougainvilla=20 question for Mailing List

I would like to dig a hole in my lawn = and=20 plant bougainvilla. It will be trained on a trellis = against=20 a block wall. In the summer the lawn is watered 3 times a = day, and=20 every other day in the winter.

Also, the area I want to plant gets = approximately=20 5 hours of afternoon sun in the summer, and a bit less in the=20 winter.

Here are my questions: 1) Will = the water=20 from the sprinklers prevent the (normally drought tolerant) plant from = thriving? 2) Will the 5 hours of sun be enough for it to=20 flourish?

Thanks!

Marc

------=_NextPart_000_000C_01C38F52.8C5E8200-- From rodmcq6@highstream.net Sat Oct 11 00:25:02 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2003 17:25:02 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Characteristics of a Grafted Tree References: <200310100435.h9A4ZsQ4013458@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <001d01c38f8e$1e4d0d40$6c04e043@ibmbna6040> The characteristics of a grafted tree will be a clone of the parent tree. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, October 09, 2003 9:35 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > If I graft a schley pecan onto a cheyenne pecan will the schley take on the dwarf qualities of the cheyenne? > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From geopine@yahoo.com Sat Oct 11 02:45:45 2003 From: geopine@yahoo.com (geopine@yahoo.com) Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2003 19:45:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310110245.h9B2jjQ4012326@Ag.arizona.edu> We have a hibiscus plant that suddenly had all of its leaves turn: 1.) first yellow then 2.) brown. Both the yellow and the brown leaves do not seem "dry", rather they feel the same as the remaining green leaves which appear to be wilting. The plant has had regular water (2 gallons each 5 days) through out the summer but once the temps were no longer regularily daytime over 100 degrees it seemed to be doing fine. Any ideas as to what is happening? Any and all help appreciated. Thanks, George p.s. we live in Surprise From watsontl@mindspring.com Sat Oct 11 13:59:24 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2003 06:59:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hibiscus Suddenly Wilts References: <200310100147.h9A1lmQ4024323@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <005001c38fff$e16d1240$2269b83f@S0029317241> There are a number of things that could cause a plant to do something this dramatic, but the most common would be an interuption of the water supply. How are these bushes watered (how much and how often)? Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, October 09, 2003 6:47 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > All the leaves on two of my hibiscus bushes suddenly wilted and dropped off. What would cause that? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From watsontl@mindspring.com Sat Oct 11 14:10:20 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2003 07:10:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tomatoes in the shade References: <200310090313.h993DZQ4010144@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <005e01c39001$688b6a00$2269b83f@S0029317241> It depends on how long they will be under that shade. If the bushes will shade them only during the afternoon, it should work. If the shade in pretty much there all day long, the tomatoes will not grow very well, and may not produce fruit at all. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2003 8:13 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > I would like to know if I can plant my tomato plant in the shade of a line of oleander trees. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From watsontl@mindspring.com Sat Oct 11 14:07:58 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2003 07:07:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] root eaters References: <200310091304.h99D4lQ4008488@Ag.arizona.edu> <1065737207.6255d80e3b8c0@www.email.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <005501c39001$142a9d50$2269b83f@S0029317241> They are indeed beetle larvae of some sort. I find them whenever I dig in the kitchen garden and toss them out into the yard for the birds (who always seem to appear, just in case, whenever I'm out in the garden). I have only rarely had so many of these grubs that they caused problems, but they can be a serious pest. Diatomaceous earth won't bother them because down in the soil where the grubs live the moisture renders the stuff useless. If you can remove them by hand without seriously disturbing plant roots, feed them to the birds. If that isn't practical, there are sources for products that deal with these grubs. One that I use can be found here: http://www.gardensalive.com/index.asp They offer a could of different options. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, October 09, 2003 3:06 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] root eaters > A friend has something caterpillar-looking eating the roots of her tomato and > basil plants (so far). It is about an inch long and has a red head and white > body -- perhaps a june bug larvae? Diatomaceous earth doesn't seem to be making > much of an impact. Any suggestions? > > Thanks, > Sara > > > > Quoting arid_gardener-request@Ag.arizona.edu: > > > Send Arid_gardener mailing list submissions to > > arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > > arid_gardener-request@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > > You can reach the person managing the list at > > arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > > than "Re: Contents of Arid_gardener digest..." > > > > > > Today's Topics: > > > > 1. Ocotillo (Rick Leary) > > 2. Pathology Lab (Jane Schoder) > > 3. Re: Killing bermuda grass (Rod) > > 4. Re: Sick Brazillian Pepper Tree (Rod) > > 5. Re: Marigolds and Nematodes (Charles Stephens) > > 6. Re: Sick Brazillian Pepper Tree (Charles Stephens) > > > > --__--__-- > > > > Message: 1 > > Date: Wed, 08 Oct 2003 14:09:06 -0700 > > To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu > > From: "Rick Leary" (by way of Lucy Bradley > > ) > > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ocotillo > > > > --=====================_26852531==_.ALT > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed > > > > Hi! > > > > We planted Ocotillo several weeks ago and it still hasn't turned green with > > leaves. ? > > Any suggestions? > > > > Initially, we watered and then stopped. > > > > Help please. > > > > Thanks - Linda > > "Rick Leary" > > > > --=====================_26852531==_.ALT > > Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" > > > > > > Hi!
> >
> > We planted Ocotillo several weeks ago and it > > still hasn't turned green with leaves. ?
> > Any suggestions?
> >
> > Initially, we watered and then stopped.
> >
> > Help please.
> >
> > Thanks - Linda
> > "Rick Leary" <pleary6@cox.net>
> > > > > > --=====================_26852531==_.ALT-- > > > > > > --__--__-- > > > > Message: 2 > > From: "Jane Schoder" > > To: > > Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 16:50:47 -0700 > > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pathology Lab > > > > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > > > > ------=_NextPart_000_0527_01C38DBC.52BB98E0 > > Content-Type: text/plain; > > charset="iso-8859-1" > > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > > > Hello Mr. McKusick, > > Thank you for the prompt response to my request for information about a = > > desert spoon plant and acacia tree. > > I have taken root and soil samples as you described. I have the mailing = > > address of the lab. > > Is there a fee schedule for lab analysis? > > Also, if the plant or a tree were subjected to such acts as gasoline = > > being poured on the plant/ soil around the trunk, would a lab analysis = > > indicate this condition? Is there a certain length of time beyond which = > > analysis would not be feasible or would the roots retain the chemicals? > > > > Thank you for your attention to this concern. > > > > ------=_NextPart_000_0527_01C38DBC.52BB98E0 > > Content-Type: text/html; > > charset="iso-8859-1" > > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > > > > > > > > content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1> > > > > > > > > > style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 10px; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; = > > COLOR: #000000; BORDER-TOP-STYLE: none; PADDING-TOP: 15px; FONT-STYLE: = > > normal; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana; BORDER-RIGHT-STYLE: none; = > > BORDER-LEFT-STYLE: none; TEXT-DECORATION: none; BORDER-BOTTOM-STYLE: = > > none"=20 > > leftMargin=3D0 topMargin=3D0 acc_role=3D"text" CanvasTabStop=3D"true"=20 > > name=3D"Compose message area"> > /> > >

Hello = > > Mr.=20 > > McKusick,

> >

Thank = > > you for the=20 > > prompt response to my request for information about a desert spoon plant = > > and=20 > > acacia tree.

> >

I have taken root and soil = > > samples as you=20 > > described. I have the mailing address of the lab.

> >

Is there a fee schedule for = > > lab=20 > > analysis?

> >

Also, if the plant or a tree = > > were=20 > > subjected to such acts as gasoline being poured on the plant/ soil = > > around the=20 > > trunk, would a lab analysis indicate this condition? Is there a certain = > > length=20 > > of time beyond which analysis would not be feasible or would the roots = > > retain=20 > > the chemicals?

> >

Thank you for your attention = > > to this=20 > > concern.

> >

> size=3D4>

> > > > ------=_NextPart_000_0527_01C38DBC.52BB98E0-- > > > > --__--__-- > > > > Message: 3 > > From: "Rod" > > To: "Tom Blount" > > Cc: > > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Killing bermuda grass > > Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 16:54:22 -0700 > > > > Tom, > > Killing bermuda grass in your Jasmine bed without killing the jasmine can be > > accomplished by using an herbicide that has the chemical Flazifop. Be sure > > to read the instructions. One such herbicide is called "Grass be Gone", > > There are others on the market. > > > > Good luck. > > > > Rod McKusick > > Master Gardener > > > > > > Blount" > > To: > > Sent: Sunday, October 05, 2003 5:45 PM > > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Killing bermuda grass > > > > > > > Can you help me . I have a bed of Asian Jasmine which Bermuda grass is > > > invading. Can I kill the Bermuda without killing the Jasmine? > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > > > > > --__--__-- > > > > Message: 4 > > From: "Rod" > > To: "Bertrand Kovac" > > Cc: > > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Sick Brazillian Pepper Tree > > Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 17:20:22 -0700 > > > > Bert, > > The Brazilian Pepper tree is very susceptable to Texas Root Rot ( cotton > > rot) and particularly if over watered. TRR doesn't always affect all the > > roots of the tree so you may have sent in to the pathologist roots that were > > not infected. > > If the Texas Root Rot fungi are still in the soil they will also attack the > > tree that is starting to grow and the fungi is active during hot weather. > > Starting a tree from the growth on an existing stump is not a recommended > > way to start a tree although I have done it several times. > > If you want a multiple trunk tree prune off all but a few of the most > > vigorous shoots. It will be a continuous process of keeping the growth that > > you do not want removed. > > Sorry but I would have to guess how long it would take to grow to ten feet > > tall. > > > > Good luck. > > > > Rod McKusick > > Master Gardener > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Bertrand Kovac" > > To: > > Sent: Saturday, October 04, 2003 11:59 PM > > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sick Brazillian Pepper Tree > > > > > > > I had a mature pepper tree with multiple trunks of 6 > > > to 8 inch diameter. Every August it would lose one or > > > two branches but this year the whole tree turned > > > brown. > > > > > > The arborist I hired offered Cotton Rot as a possible > > > explanation and cut the tree back to one foot stumps. > > > > > > I sent root samples to the Tucson lab' but the plant > > > pathologist could not identify any pathogen. The tree > > > was growing in an area where it is very difficult to > > > control water; next to a golf course. It was not > > > receiving the same deep waterings that I apply to my > > > citrus. To water it properly in the future, I will > > > have to use ahose. Everything else on my property is > > > on a sprinkler timer. > > > > > > During the six weeks since the tree was drastically > > > cut back, the stumps have produced a luxurious growth > > > of leafy branches. The new growth is very vigorous. > > > > > > Two questions: > > > > > > How best to nurture the new growth? > > > > > > How long will it take to reach a ten foot height? > > > > > > Thanks in advance. > > > > > > Bert Keates > > > > > > > > > > > > ===== > > > Bertrand Kovac > > > > > > __________________________________ > > > Do you Yahoo!? > > > The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search > > > http://shopping.yahoo.com > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > > > > > --__--__-- > > > > Message: 5 > > From: "Charles Stephens" > > To: , , > > > > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Marigolds and Nematodes > > Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 20:47:46 -0700 > > > > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > > > > ------=_NextPart_000_0041_01C38DDD.6E0C6220 > > Content-Type: text/plain; > > charset="iso-8859-1" > > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > > > I too have done some online research on marigolds and nematodes and = > > have seen some claims, from apparently credible sources, similar to = > > those that John mentions, and they have all specified French marigolds. = > > I have also discussed this with Dr. Mary Olsen, the U. of A. Extension = > > Plant Pathologist. Mary says that while the nematodes won't bother = > > marigolds, the marigolds won't protect susceptible plants. I've also = > > heard pretty much the same thing from Terry Mikel, a U.of A. Cooperative = > > Extension Commercial Horticulture Agent. I can only conclude that the = > > "experts" disagree on this subject. I would certainly take claims made = > > by seed vendors with a grain of salt. > > =20 > > French marigolds, Tagetes patula, are fairly easy to find but, there are = > > many different cultivars around. I have seen even seeds at Wal-Mart. = > > Park Seed is one of several online companies that have them. Most of the = > > seed packets prominently display the cultivar (variety) name only, you = > > must read the fine print. There are also several other species of = > > Tagetes, one of which is the one that Tom mentioned. > > > > Tomato plant labels and seed packets may show any or all of the letters = > > VFTN. A variety with the N is nematode resistant, the V, F and T refer = > > to resistance to Verticillium wilt, Fusarium wilt and Tobacco mosaic = > > virus. I have had fairly good luck this year with Celebrity and Champion = > > tomatoes, both of which are nematode resistant and were suggested by Dr. = > > Mike McClure, U. of A Nematologist. It is also a good idea to get your = > > plants into the ground early in the season while the soil is still cool = > > and the nematodes aren't too active. You will may have to provide some = > > frost protection. > > > > Soil solarization, three year rotation with nonsusceptible crops and = > > resistant varieties is the most effective strategy that I've been able = > > to find. If you find some other practical solution, I would be very = > > interested to hear about it! > > > > Best of luck, > > Charlie, MG, Phx > > > > ----- Original Message -----=20 > > From: watsontl@mindspring.com=20 > > To: jjmollerus@juno.com ; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 > > Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2003 3:45 PM > > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Marigolds and Nematodes > > > > > > French marigolds are not a single type of marigold, but one of several > > horticultural catagories marigolds are broken down into. So you = > > won't find a > > packet of seeds simply labeled French marigold. You might, however, = > > find some > > that, in the fine print, describe the variety they contain to be "a = > > French > > type" or words to that effect. There are a lot of varieties of French = > > marigolds. Many of the marigolds sold in nurseries are of the French = > > type, so you might be able to get what you need by asking for such. > > > > There is a specific marigold sold by Seeds of Change (in New Mexico) = > > that is grown as a cover crop to kill nematodes. The link below will = > > lead you to it. I doubt you will find this one locally. These are = > > big plants (up to 7 feet tall) so I don't know how this would work for = > > your space situation. They are, however, and by all accounts, the most = > > effective marigold for the job. > > > > = > > http://www.seedsofchange.com/garden_center/product_details.asp?UID=3D2003= > > 100812281399&item_no=3DPS15493 > > > > Can you tell us what sort of plants were damaged by nematodes, and how = > > you > > determined that these worms were the cause? > > > > Tom > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: jjmollerus@juno.com > > Sent: Oct 8, 2003 7:36 AM > > To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu > > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > > > Where in the valley can I buy French marigold seeds? > > > > I have nematodes. Soil sterilization has helped but more need to be = > > done. A local nursery recommended planting marigold seeds with my = > > tomatoes etc. for nematode relief. Searching the web I found plenty of = > > info regarding the use of marigolds for nematode control (ex. No. = > > Carolina Dept of Agriculture at www.ncagr.com/agronomi/nnote1.htm). = > > However, most of the articles point to the use of French or African = > > marigolds. The African marigold is rather large and wouldn't fit the = > > garden. I tried to find French marigold seeds however no luck at = > > nurseries near me. The seed company catalogs don't seem to carry them. = > > Can buy them on the web, however the outfits that seem to bee selling = > > French marigold seeds are located in other countries. Therefore, my = > > question about local seed sources. > > > > Thanks > > > > John Mollerus > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > > ------=_NextPart_000_0041_01C38DDD.6E0C6220 > > Content-Type: text/html; > > charset="iso-8859-1" > > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > > > > > > > > http-equiv=3DContent-Type> > > > > > > > > > >

I too have done some online research on marigolds and nematodes and = > > have=20 > > seen some claims, from apparently credible sources, similar to those = > > that John=20 > > mentions, and they have all specified French marigolds. I have = > > also=20 > > discussed this with Dr. Mary Olsen, the U. of A. Extension Plant = > > Pathologist.=20 > > Mary says that while the nematodes won't bother marigolds, the marigolds = > > won't=20 > > protect susceptible plants. I've also heard pretty much the same thing = > > from=20 > > Terry Mikel, a U.of A. Cooperative Extension Commercial Horticulture = > > Agent. I=20 > > can only conclude that the "experts" disagree on this subject. I would = > > certainly=20 > > take claims made by seed vendors with a grain of salt.

> >

French marigolds, Tagetes patula, are fairly easy to find = > > but,=20 > > there are many different cultivars around. I have seen even seeds at=20 > > Wal-Mart. Park Seed is one of several online companies that have = > > them.=20 > > Most of the seed packets prominently display the cultivar (variety) name = > > only,=20 > > you must read the fine print. There are also several other species = > > of =20 > > Tagetes, one of which is the one that Tom mentioned.

> >

Tomato plant labels and seed packets may show any or all of the = > > letters=20 > > VFTN. A variety with the N is nematode resistant, the V, F and T refer = > > to=20 > > resistance to Verticillium wilt, Fusarium wilt and Tobacco mosaic virus. = > > I have=20 > > had fairly good luck this year with Celebrity and Champion tomatoes, = > > both of=20 > > which are nematode resistant and were suggested by Dr. Mike McClure, U. = > > of A=20 > > Nematologist. It is also a good idea to get your plants into the ground = > > early in=20 > > the season while the soil is still cool and the nematodes aren't too = > > active. You=20 > > will may have to provide some frost protection.

> >

Soil solarization, three year rotation with nonsusceptible crops = > > and=20 > > resistant varieties is the most effective strategy that I've been able = > > to find.=20 > > If you find some other practical solution, I would be very interested to = > > hear=20 > > about it!

> >

Best of luck,

> >

Charlie, MG, Phx

> >

> > > style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: = > > 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px"> > >

----- Original Message -----

> > > style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: = > > black">From:=20 > > > title=3Dwatsontl@mindspring.com>watsontl@mindspring.com > >

To: > href=3D"mailto:jjmollerus@juno.com"=20 > > title=3Djjmollerus@juno.com>jjmollerus@juno.com ; > href=3D"mailto:arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu"=20 > > title=3Darid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu = > >

> >

Sent: Wednesday, October 08, = > > 2003 3:45=20 > > PM

> >

Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] = > > Marigolds=20 > > and Nematodes

> >

French marigolds are not a single type of marigold, but = > > one of=20 > > several
horticultural catagories marigolds are broken down=20 > > into.   So you won't find a
packet of seeds simply = > > labeled French=20 > > marigold.   You might, however, find some
that, in the = > > fine=20 > > print, describe the variety they contain to be "a French
type" or = > > words to=20 > > that effect. There are a lot of varieties of French=20 > > marigolds.   Many of the marigolds sold in nurseries are of = > > the=20 > > French type, so you might be able to get what you need by asking = > > for=20 > > such.

There is a specific marigold sold by Seeds of Change (in = > > New=20 > > Mexico) that is grown as a cover crop to kill nematodes.   = > > The link=20 > > below will lead you to it.   I doubt you will find this one=20 > > locally.   These are big plants (up to 7 feet tall) so I = > > don't know=20 > > how this would work for your space situation.   They are, = > > however,=20 > > and by all accounts, the most effective marigold for the = > > job.

> = > > href=3D"http://www.seedsofchange.com/garden_center/product_details.asp?UI= > > D=3D2003100812281399&item_no=3DPS15493">http://www.seedsofchange.com/= > > garden_center/product_details.asp?UID=3D2003100812281399&item_no=3DPS= > > 15493

Can=20 > > you tell us what sort of plants were damaged by nematodes, and how=20 > > you
determined that these worms were the=20 > > cause?

Tom

-----Original Message-----
From: > href=3D"mailto:jjmollerus@juno.com">jjmollerus@juno.com
Sent: = > > Oct 8, 2003=20 > > 7:36 AM
To: > = > > href=3D"mailto:arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu">arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= > >
Subject:=20 > > [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page

Where in the = > > valley=20 > > can I buy French marigold seeds?

I have nematodes. Soil = > > sterilization=20 > > has helped but more need to be done. A local nursery recommended = > > > > planting marigold seeds with my tomatoes etc. for nematode = > > relief. =20 > > Searching the web I found plenty of info regarding the use of = > > marigolds for=20 > > nematode control (ex. No. Carolina Dept of Agriculture at > = > > href=3D"http://www.ncagr.com/agronomi/nnote1.htm">www.ncagr.com/agronomi/= > > nnote1.htm). =20 > > However, most of the articles point to the use of French or African=20 > > marigolds. The African marigold is rather large and wouldn't fit = > > the=20 > > garden. I tried to find French marigold seeds however no luck at = > > > > nurseries near me. The seed company catalogs don't seem to carry = > > > > them. Can buy them on the web, however the outfits that seem to = > > bee=20 > > selling French marigold seeds are located in other countries. = > > Therefore,=20 > > my question about local seed sources.

Thanks

John=20 > > = > > Mollerus

_______________________________________________
Arid_g= > > ardener=20 > > mailing list
> = > > href=3D"mailto:Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu">Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu= > >
> = > > href=3D"http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener">http://Ag.A= > > rizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener

____________________= > > ___________________________
Arid_gardener=20 > > mailing list
> = > > href=3D"mailto:Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu">Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu= > >
> = > > href=3D"http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener">http://Ag.A= > > rizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> ML> > > > > ------=_NextPart_000_0041_01C38DDD.6E0C6220-- > > > > > > --__--__-- > > > > Message: 6 > > From: "Charles Stephens" > > To: "Rod" , "Bertrand Kovac" > > Cc: > > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Sick Brazillian Pepper Tree > > Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 21:27:28 -0700 > > > > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > > > > ------=_NextPart_000_0055_01C38DE2.F9825760 > > Content-Type: text/plain; > > charset="iso-8859-1" > > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > > > Terry Mikel, the Commercial Horticulture Agent in the Maricopa County = > > Cooperative Extension Office, discussed the problem of sick or dieing = > > Brazilian pepper trees at this Master Gardener update this morning. > > The problem has been very common in the valley lately and is usually = > > caused by a combination of our current drought and the soil mix in which = > > the tree was originally grown. > > Essentially all of the pepper trees sold in this area are grown in more = > > humid areas of California and the growers there use a mix which is = > > nearly all peat moss and vermiculite. This mixture is hydrophobic i.e. = > > repels water if allowed to dry and becomes extremely difficult to rewet = > > even when the surrounding soil is quite moist. One can check for this = > > problem by examining the soil in the area which was in the original = > > container. If this was the problem, sprinkling or drip irrigation is = > > unlikely to change the situation. You must use a hose and make sure that = > > the original root ball is soaked when watering until you are sure that = > > the tree has adequate roots grown into the native soil. > > > > Charlie Stephens > > Master Gardener > > Phoenix > > > > > > ----- Original Message -----=20 > > From: Rod=20 > > To: Bertrand Kovac=20 > > Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 > > Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2003 5:20 PM > > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Sick Brazillian Pepper Tree > > > > > > Bert, > > The Brazilian Pepper tree is very susceptable to Texas Root Rot ( = > > cotton > > rot) and particularly if over watered. TRR doesn't always affect all = > > the > > roots of the tree so you may have sent in to the pathologist roots = > > that were > > not infected. > > If the Texas Root Rot fungi are still in the soil they will also = > > attack the > > tree that is starting to grow and the fungi is active during hot = > > weather. > > Starting a tree from the growth on an existing stump is not a = > > recommended > > way to start a tree although I have done it several times. > > If you want a multiple trunk tree prune off all but a few of the most > > vigorous shoots. It will be a continuous process of keeping the growth = > > that > > you do not want removed. > > Sorry but I would have to guess how long it would take to grow to ten = > > feet > > tall. > > > > Good luck. > > > > Rod McKusick > > Master Gardener > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Bertrand Kovac" > > To: > > Sent: Saturday, October 04, 2003 11:59 PM > > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sick Brazillian Pepper Tree > > > > > > > I had a mature pepper tree with multiple trunks of 6 > > > to 8 inch diameter. Every August it would lose one or > > > two branches but this year the whole tree turned > > > brown. > > > > > > The arborist I hired offered Cotton Rot as a possible > > > explanation and cut the tree back to one foot stumps. > > > > > > I sent root samples to the Tucson lab' but the plant > > > pathologist could not identify any pathogen. The tree > > > was growing in an area where it is very difficult to > > > control water; next to a golf course. It was not > > > receiving the same deep waterings that I apply to my > > > citrus. To water it properly in the future, I will > > > have to use ahose. Everything else on my property is > > > on a sprinkler timer. > > > > > > During the six weeks since the tree was drastically > > > cut back, the stumps have produced a luxurious growth > > > of leafy branches. The new growth is very vigorous. > > > > > > Two questions: > > > > > > How best to nurture the new growth? > > > > > > How long will it take to reach a ten foot height? > > > > > > Thanks in advance. > > > > > > Bert Keates > > > > > > > > > > > > =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D > > > Bertrand Kovac > > > > > > __________________________________ > > > Do you Yahoo!? > > > The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search > > > http://shopping.yahoo.com > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > > ------=_NextPart_000_0055_01C38DE2.F9825760 > > Content-Type: text/html; > > charset="iso-8859-1" > > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > > > > > > > > http-equiv=3DContent-Type> > > > > > > > > > >

Terry Mikel, the Commercial Horticulture Agent in the Maricopa = > > County=20 > > Cooperative Extension Office, discussed the problem of sick or dieing = > > Brazilian=20 > > pepper trees at this Master Gardener update this morning.

> >

The problem has been very common in the valley lately and is = > > usually=20 > > caused by a combination of our current drought and the soil mix in which = > > the=20 > > tree was originally grown.

> >

Essentially all of the pepper trees sold in this area are grown in = > > more=20 > > humid areas of California and the growers there use a mix which is = > > nearly all=20 > > peat moss and vermiculite. This mixture is hydrophobic i.e. repels water = > > if=20 > > allowed to dry and becomes extremely difficult to rewet even when the=20 > > surrounding soil is quite moist. One can check for this problem by = > > examining the=20 > > soil in the area which was in the original container. If this was the = > > problem,=20 > > sprinkling or drip irrigation is unlikely to change the situation. You = > > must use=20 > > a hose and make sure that the original root ball is soaked when watering = > > until=20 > > you are sure that the tree has adequate roots grown into the native = > > soil.

> >

Charlie Stephens
Master Gardener
Phoenix

> >

> > > style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: = > > 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px"> > >

----- Original Message -----

> > > style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: = > > black">From:=20 > > > title=3Drodmcq6@highstream.net>Rod=20 > > > >

To: > href=3D"mailto:kbert5@yahoo.com"=20 > > title=3Dkbert5@yahoo.com>Bertrand Kovac

> >

Cc: > href=3D"mailto:arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu"=20 > > title=3Darid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu = > >

> >

Sent: Wednesday, October 08, = > > 2003 5:20=20 > > PM

> >

Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] = > > Sick=20 > > Brazillian Pepper Tree

> >

Bert,
The Brazilian Pepper tree is very susceptable = > > to Texas=20 > > Root Rot ( cotton
rot) and particularly if over watered. TRR = > > doesn't always=20 > > affect all the
roots of the tree so you may have sent in to the = > > pathologist=20 > > roots that were
not infected.
If the Texas Root Rot fungi are=20 > > still in the soil they will also attack the
tree that is = > > starting to=20 > > grow and the fungi is active during hot weather.
Starting a tree = > > from the=20 > > growth on an existing stump is not a recommended
way to start a = > > tree=20 > > although I have done it several times.
If you want a multiple trunk = > > tree=20 > > prune off all but a few of the most
vigorous shoots. It will be a=20 > > continuous process of keeping the growth that
you do not want=20 > > removed.
Sorry but I would have to guess how long it would take to = > > grow to=20 > > ten feet
tall.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master=20 > > Gardener

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bertrand Kovac" = > > < > href=3D"mailto:kbert5@yahoo.com">kbert5@yahoo.com>
To: = > > < > = > > href=3D"mailto:arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu">arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= > > >
Sent:=20 > > Saturday, October 04, 2003 11:59 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sick=20 > > Brazillian Pepper Tree

> I had a mature pepper tree with = > > > > multiple trunks of 6
> to 8 inch diameter. Every August it = > > would=20 > > lose one or
> two branches but this year the whole tree = > > turned
>=20 > > brown.
>
> The arborist I hired offered Cotton Rot as a=20 > > possible
> explanation and cut the tree back to one foot=20 > > stumps.
>
> I sent root samples to the Tucson lab' but the = > > > > plant
> pathologist could not identify any pathogen. The=20 > > tree
> was growing in an area where it is very difficult = > > to
>=20 > > control water; next to a golf course. It was not
> = > > receiving the=20 > > same deep waterings that I apply to my
> citrus. To water = > > it=20 > > properly in the future, I will
> have to use ahose. = > > Everything=20 > > else on my property is
> on a sprinkler timer.
>
> = > > During=20 > > the six weeks since the tree was drastically
> cut back, the = > > stumps have=20 > > produced a luxurious growth
> of leafy branches. The new = > > growth is=20 > > very vigorous.
>
> Two questions:
>
> How best = > > to=20 > > nurture the new growth?
>
> How long will it take to reach = > > a ten=20 > > foot height?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Bert=20 > > Keates
>
>
>
> =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
> = > > Bertrand=20 > > Kovac
>
> __________________________________
> Do = > > you=20 > > Yahoo!?
> The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product = > > search
>=20 > > > href=3D"http://shopping.yahoo.com">http://shopping.yahoo.com
> = > > > > _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener = > > mailing=20 > > list
> > = > > href=3D"mailto:Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu">Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu= > >
>=20 > > > = > > href=3D"http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener">http://Ag.A= > > rizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>

____________= > > ___________________________________
Arid_gardener=20 > > mailing list
> = > > href=3D"mailto:Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu">Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu= > >
> = > > href=3D"http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener">http://Ag.A= > > rizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> ML> > > > > ------=_NextPart_000_0055_01C38DE2.F9825760-- > > > > > > > > --__--__-- > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > > End of Arid_gardener Digest > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Oct 12 01:48:24 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 01:48:24 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] az trees Dalbergia Sissoo Message-ID: Duffield & Jones book, "Plants for Dry Climates", has good information about this tree. It is evergreen to partly deciduous (cold can brown foliage and causes thin and wan appearance in late winter. Recovers quickly in spring. Moderate to fast growth to 30 to 50 feet. Trees need weekly irrigation until established; then monthly deep irrigation. No indication that it is a "messy" tree. (small flowers and pods listed as little litter problem). Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Shirley (by way of Lucy Bradley >) >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] az trees Dalbergia Sissoo >Date: Wed, 08 Oct 2003 14:09:41 -0700 > >I am trying to locate information on this particular species of tree. >Cannot seem to locate it in your lists. Please advise if you have any info. >Need to know if this tree is evergreen in the Phoenix area and how rapidly >it grows? Is it recommended for yard planting in an irrigated situation and >is it a 'messy' tree?. Thank You. > > >Shirley > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get McAfee virus scanning and cleaning of incoming attachments. Get Hotmail Extra Storage! http://join.msn.com/?PAGE=features/es From sunsfan2@earthlink.net Sat Oct 11 20:33:50 2003 From: sunsfan2@earthlink.net (sunsfan2@earthlink.net) Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2003 13:33:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310112033.h9BKXoQ4008766@Ag.arizona.edu> Help!! I have something burrowing in my front yard. There are holes all over the place and the gravel is a big mess. I've heard the problem is kangaroo rats. Is there any solution for this? Thank you very much, Betty From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Oct 12 01:40:29 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 01:40:29 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] propagating red yucca Message-ID: Mary & Gary Irish's book, "Agaves, Yuccas, and Related Plants", states that most species germinate faster and grow faster after germination if the soil and air temperatures are above 80 F. So, you may want to wait until next spring to plant the seed. You might wat to check out the book for additional information- lots of very useful information for the gardener! Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Linda Guy" >To: "Arid_gardener" >Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: propagating red yucca] >Date: Tue, 07 Oct 2003 15:44:17 -0700 > > Could someone help Jane, please? > >-------- Original Message -------- >Subject: propagating red yucca >Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2003 13:51:01 -0500 >From: "jane" >To: lindaguy@qwest.net > > > >What time of year do you plant the seeds? I live at 6000 ft in the desert >mountains of texas.........and ideas? thanks, Jane _________________________________________________________________ High-speed Internet access as low as $29.95/month (depending on the local service providers in your area). Click here. https://broadband.msn.com From Budinphx@aol.com Sun Oct 12 03:09:04 2003 From: Budinphx@aol.com (Budinphx@aol.com) Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2003 23:09:04 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Apply nutrients to plants & trees thru existing drip system... Message-ID: <23.360c73e5.2cba1fd0@aol.com> --part1_23.360c73e5.2cba1fd0_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Recently I added a siphon to the supply portion of my drip system. This will allow me to apply liguid nutrients to my citrus, mesquite, paloverde trees, and bushes such as Texas sage, casia, hoop seed,..... How do I mix a nutrient for this purpose? All the growth is mature. Thx in advance for your help, Bud Woodward , 521 East Piping Rock Road, Phoenix, AZ 85022 tele 602/866-0157 --part1_23.360c73e5.2cba1fd0_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Recently I added a siphon to the supply portion of my=20= drip system. This will allow me to apply liguid nutrients to my citrus= , mesquite, paloverde trees, and bushes such as Texas sage, casia, hoop seed= ,.....
      How do I mix a nutrient for this purpose?

     All the growth is mature.

     Thx in advance for your help, Bud Woodward ,&= nbsp; 521 East Piping Rock Road,
            &nbs= p;
            &nbs= p;            &n= bsp;            = Phoenix, AZ 85022   tele 602/866-0157 --part1_23.360c73e5.2cba1fd0_boundary-- From JAGA1700@aol.com Sat Oct 11 23:21:30 2003 From: JAGA1700@aol.com (JAGA1700@aol.com) Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2003 19:21:30 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oro Blanco Message-ID: <149.1a1dd571.2cb9ea7a@aol.com> --part1_149.1a1dd571.2cb9ea7a_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit We are thinking about planting this grapfruit. Any comments regarding the success in Chandler area, size of tree at maturity, quality of the fruit, etc. From what we have read it is a sweeter grapefuit being a cross with a pummelo. We already have a mature red ruby tree. Thanks, John --part1_149.1a1dd571.2cb9ea7a_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable We are thinking about planting this grapfruit= . Any comments regarding the success in Chandler area, size of tree a= t maturity, quality of the fruit, etc. From what we have read it is a= sweeter grapefuit being a cross with a pummelo. We already have a ma= ture red ruby tree.
Thanks,
John --part1_149.1a1dd571.2cb9ea7a_boundary-- From rodmcq6@highstream.net Sun Oct 12 19:18:24 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 12:18:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Root Rot - Chinese Elm, replacement Tipu? References: <20031012173913.70660.qmail@web41408.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000201c390fa$0e59dd60$7ca9db43@ibmbna6040> The Chinese Elm is very susceptable to the fungus that causes Texas Root Rot which is prevalent in most southwestern soils at elevations under 4500 feet. The only trees that are immune to Texas Root Rot are bamboo and palms. However nearly all of the desert adapted trees such as mesquite, palo verde,eucalyptus, acacia, aleppo pine, lysiloma, mulberry, desert willow and cypress are resistant to TRR and especially if watered properly. Over watering helps the fungus to thrive. As for the Tipu tree, I did not find anything that classified it as to susceptability to TRR, it is not a desert adapted tree so I would have to personally classify the Tipu as susceptable to TRR. Another negative is that it will not handle strongly alkaline soil and if you live in Maricopa county our soils are very alkaline. Hope this helps. Rod ----- Original Message ----- From: "J Shook" To: Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2003 10:39 AM Subject: Root Rot - Chinese Elm, replacement Tipu? > Hello Rod, > > When we moved into our brand new home it backed up to > a greenbelt with three Chinese Elms. Therefore to go > with the them we planted two ourselves. About three > months later two of the elms on the greenbelt died > almost instantaneously and the last a month later. > The property management company called it Texas root > rot and said it was in the soil. A year later we > suddenly lost one of the elms we planted and recently > we lost the other. > > Needless to say we are looking to replace these trees > but would like a hardy tree that is not susceptible to > root rot. An individual at Moon Valley talked us into > the Tipu tree. However, in my readings and web > searches I have not been able to determine if this is > a hardy tree that is not susceptible to diseases and > would be a good fit for our soil. We have time to > change, I just don't want to lose two more trees. > > Thank you for all of your helpful insight! > > __________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search > http://shopping.yahoo.com > From LevineMarc@cox.net Mon Oct 13 03:25:59 2003 From: LevineMarc@cox.net (Marc) Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2003 20:25:59 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hibiscus question Message-ID: <001a01c39139$b9274db0$7000a8c0@Marc> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0017_01C390FF.0CA70B00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable What variety of Hibiscus (aside from "San Diego Red") has anyone had = success with here in the valley? I'd like a variety that blooms during = the summer, as well as the fall and spring. Any suggestions? I heard = the darkers flowered hibiscus handle the heat better. Any truth to = that? Thanks! Marc ------=_NextPart_000_0017_01C390FF.0CA70B00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

What variety of Hibiscus (aside from = "San Diego=20 Red") has anyone had success with here in the valley? I'd like a = variety=20 that blooms during the summer, as well as the fall and spring. Any = suggestions? I heard the darkers flowered hibiscus handle the heat = better. Any truth to that?

Thanks!

Marc

------=_NextPart_000_0017_01C390FF.0CA70B00-- From s2@auroranow.org Mon Oct 13 16:17:44 2003 From: s2@auroranow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 09:17:44 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ocotillo, Desert Willow, AZ Ash ??s References: <5.1.0.14.2.20031008140847.01f086d8@ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3F8AD028.8080801@auroranow.org> Hi fellow desert gardeners, After neglecting my property all summer except to turn on and off the drip irrigation, I did a thorough "fall inspection" over the weekend. A couple questions: Ocotillo: 2 of the 3 ocotillos I planted 18 months ago were gonners . The one had greened up within 6 months, and knowing it can take up to 2 years, I waited patiently for the other 2, which still looked ok. But the canes were yellow/green and not green-green. Finally, I pulled at a cane and the thing literally disintegrated. The roots were rotted and there were grubs/beetles (borers?) around the roots. I had these on the same drip irrigation as the cacti, which meant they were only getting water about every 3-4 weeks in the summer. Obviously cacti can take more water than ocotillo. Lesson learned. No more extra water on these things at all! Here's my question: the nursery staff at Big Box Store said to treat the soil with triazicide. Will that do the trick? I did happen to find 2 more very green bare root ocotillos at the store, but planted them in new areas, this time with even more rocks than the first time (the one that is very healthy was planted in almost all rock and very little soil, which is how they seem to grow best in the wild). What should I do to the soil in the spots where the 2 ocotillos died before I plant something new there? I went ahead and treated the 2 new and one established ocotillo with triazicide around the base, but am wondering if this will really prevent the borers? 2nd Question: Desert Willow. One of my desert willows was planted last fall as a 5 gallon. It didn't shoot up to 6 feet the first season like my other one did, but it is growing steadily. However, some of the leaves are pale green/yellowish and some of the leaf tips are blackened. Any clues? just not enough water on this particular tree? (same as all my other desert trees, which are thriving)? 3rd question: AZ Ash. My Arizona Ash is growing, sorta, but just doesn't seem very happy. I had some browning/dying leaves over the summer, did a double watering on it and gave it a bit of fish emulsion (I usually don't fertilize anything native). It still doesn't seem real happy. I've also noticed most of the AZ Ash around Tucson look the same as mine: growing, but barely, with some dead leaves. Anyone know if there's something going on with these or are they just not quite getting enough water? BTW... the few problems shouldn't overshadow my successes, I suppose. I really have been neglecting the yard and it is absolutely beautiful! I have a tecoma stans orange jubilee next to my porch that gets some monsoon roof run off, and the thing is 15 feet tall and has been LOADED with blooms all summer. My roses are over 5 ft and covered with blossoms, and my vitex is swarmed with butterflies :-) and cape honeysuckle growing up the pillar of the porch and loaded with hummingbirds. And to think, I couldn't grow a thing in rich Michigan peat to save my life ! -- Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. Aurora Now Foundation | http://www.auroranow.org Helping human systems create better futures ----------------------------------------------- Tucson office: 520.578-2801 | AOL IM: Aurora S2 ----------------------------------------------- "I became convinced that we're here for each other." --R. Buckminster Fuller From WGPMEP1118@aol.com Mon Oct 13 20:12:19 2003 From: WGPMEP1118@aol.com (WGPMEP1118@aol.com) Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 16:12:19 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit tree not producing any fruit Message-ID: -------------------------------1066075939 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have a grapefruit tree in my yard, planted about 3 yrs. ago. It is covered with flowers in spring but never produces any fruit. The navel orange tree, planted at same time is a great producer. I fertilize with a citrus fertilizer as the bag instructs. I do prune the tree to shape it into a globe shape, the same size as the orange tree. The tree is otherwise beautiful, good color and leaf structure,what do you think the problem could be? Bill from Green Valley -------------------------------1066075939 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I have a grapefruit tree in my yard, planted about 3 yrs. ago. It= is covered with flowers in spring but never produces any fruit. The n= avel orange tree, planted at same time is a great producer. I fertiliz= e with a citrus fertilizer as the bag instructs. I do prune the tree t= o shape it into a globe shape, the same size as the orange tree. The t= ree is otherwise beautiful, good color and leaf structure,what do you think=20= the problem could be?

Bill from Green Valley

-------------------------------1066075939-- From rodmcq6@highstream.net Mon Oct 13 23:17:19 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 16:17:19 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit tree not producing any fruit References: Message-ID: <002201c391e0$294e3940$1031db43@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001F_01C391A5.79881A60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Bill, Usually citrus do not bear fruit until they have been planted 4 to 5 = years. Hang in there you should have fruit in a year or two. I would suggest that you prune the citrus with care so that the trunk or = limbs are not exposed to the sun for citrus sunburn quite easily. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener----- Original Message -----=20 From: WGPMEP1118@aol.com=20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Monday, October 13, 2003 1:12 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit tree not producing any fruit I have a grapefruit tree in my yard, planted about 3 yrs. ago. It is = covered with flowers in spring but never produces any fruit. The navel = orange tree, planted at same time is a great producer. I fertilize with = a citrus fertilizer as the bag instructs. I do prune the tree to shape = it into a globe shape, the same size as the orange tree. The tree is = otherwise beautiful, good color and leaf structure,what do you think the = problem could be? Bill from Green Valley ------=_NextPart_000_001F_01C391A5.79881A60 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Bill,

Usually citrus do not bear fruit until they have = been planted=20 4 to 5 years. Hang in there you should have fruit in a year or = two.

I would suggest that you prune the citrus with = care so=20 that the trunk or limbs are not exposed to the sun for citrus sunburn = quite=20 easily.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick

Master Gardener----- Original Message ----- =

From:=20 WGPMEP1118@aol.com
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= =20

Sent: Monday, October 13, 2003 = 1:12=20 PM

Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Grapefruit tree=20 not producing any fruit

I have a grapefruit tree in my yard, planted about 3 yrs. = ago. It=20 is covered with flowers in spring but never produces any fruit. = The=20 navel orange tree, planted at same time is a great producer. I = fertilize=20 with a citrus fertilizer as the bag instructs. I do prune the = tree to=20 shape it into a globe shape, the same size as the orange tree. = The tree=20 is otherwise beautiful, good color and leaf structure,what do you = think the=20 problem could be?

Bill from Green Valley

------=_NextPart_000_001F_01C391A5.79881A60-- From zucka@cox.net Tue Oct 14 12:16:31 2003 From: zucka@cox.net (zucka@cox.net) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 05:16:31 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310141216.h9ECGVQ4019650@Ag.arizona.edu> I have two Ficus Trees in my backyard. They were 24 inch box when installed. They are at least 36 inch size toaday. I just had two large planters erected around them that are two half foot deep. I was told however that was bad thing to do because of I fill the planter with dirt that the trunk will rot. I was also told that because it's a non grafted tree that it will be o,k, I was also told I have a 50 50 chance, which i'm not willing to take. Finally to my question. Can I add over two foot of dirt to an existing tree without harming it. If I should not what would your recommendation be as far as keeping soil off the trunk but still being able to use the planter. Thankyou Frank Zuckerbrow From jc_minano@hotmail.com Tue Oct 14 16:35:28 2003 From: jc_minano@hotmail.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Juan_C._Mi=F1ano_Hotmail?=) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 18:35:28 +0200 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question: When should I sow Palo Verde seeds? Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0015_01C39281.F0D715D0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Name and age of plant: Palo Verde seeds=20 Description of the problem: I want to sow these seeds in a region = located in the South East of Spain. This region (it is called Murcia) = has a dry mediterranean climate. I don't know when should I sow them. = The seeds were picked up last week in Arizona. Thank you, Juan Carlos ------=_NextPart_000_0015_01C39281.F0D715D0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Name and age of plant: Palo = Verde seeds=20
Description of the problem: I want to sow these seeds in a region = located in=20 the South East of Spain. This region (it is called Murcia) has a = dry=20 mediterranean climate. I don't know when should I sow them. The seeds = were=20 picked up last week in Arizona.

Thank you, Juan=20 Carlos

------=_NextPart_000_0015_01C39281.F0D715D0-- From rodmcq6@highstream.net Wed Oct 15 00:18:48 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 17:18:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Planter around a tree References: <200310141216.h9ECGVQ4019650@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000f01c392b1$e8b5c880$2e2c0a3f@ibmbna6040> Frank, The tree will not live long if you build a two foot high planter around it. The only way this can be done is to erect a retaining wall around the tree allowing space for air circulation. Even this will shorten the life of the tree. You will sometimes see trees in a comercial area or the down town area planted with a planter around them, but they are planted with the knowledge that the trees will be short lived. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2003 5:16 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I have two Ficus Trees in my backyard. They were 24 inch box when installed. They are at least 36 inch size toaday. I just had two large planters erected around them that are two half foot deep. I was told however that was bad thing to do because of I fill the planter with dirt that the trunk will rot. I was also told that because it's a non grafted tree that it will be o,k, > I was also told I have a 50 50 chance, which i'm not willing to take. > Finally to my question. Can I add over two foot of dirt to an existing tree without harming it. > If I should not what would your recommendation be as far as keeping soil off the trunk but still being able to use the planter. > Thankyou > Frank Zuckerbrow > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From MYLLE1@JUNO.COM Wed Oct 15 04:46:22 2003 From: MYLLE1@JUNO.COM (MYLLE1@JUNO.COM) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003 21:46:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310150446.h9F4kMQ4003998@Ag.arizona.edu> What might cause leaves on a 30 yr. old eucalyptus to dry and turn brown. Most the tree is affected. the watering hasn't changed and no chemicles have been used in the area. From thenetts@aol.com Wed Oct 15 19:04:54 2003 From: thenetts@aol.com (thenetts@aol.com) Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 12:04:54 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310151904.h9FJ4sQ4003739@Ag.arizona.edu> How much should I be watering my citrus right now? The bowls around the base remain damp between watering-is this too much water? Should I be fertilizing also? I have pink grapefruit, tangerine and valencia orange. Where can I get a freestone peach that would grow well in the area-one of my neighbors has 2 so I shouldn't have problems with fruit. Thanks From rodmcq6@highstream.net Thu Oct 16 00:12:11 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 17:12:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus Watering References: <200310151904.h9FJ4sQ4003739@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <002301c3937a$2e37ae00$812c0a3f@ibmbna6040> The following site will give you the information on how much and how often to water citrus: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Citrus should be fertilized three times per year in Feb. or March, April or May and July or August. I'm not familiar with a freestone peach. The varieties that do well in Maricopa County are Desertgold, Junegold and Bonanza. There are several others that will do well if you are at an elevation of 2500 feet +. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2003 12:04 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > How much should I be watering my citrus right now? The bowls around the base remain damp between watering-is this too much water? Should I be fertilizing also? I have pink grapefruit, tangerine and valencia orange. Where can I get a freestone peach that would grow well in the area-one of my neighbors has 2 so I shouldn't have problems with fruit. Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From Fbyocko@aol.com Thu Oct 16 01:21:29 2003 From: Fbyocko@aol.com (Fbyocko@aol.com) Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 21:21:29 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tree "orange" Message-ID: <44.368aaee0.2cbf4c99@aol.com> Have a 2 yr. old tree first year did good, this year not so hot. Early spring all the leaves were green growing, then they turned yellow, around July some new growth then stopped.I deep root water and fertilize every 3 mos. All yellow leaf's have fallen. Can help? Fred, Green Valley From joyful622@cox.net Thu Oct 16 13:44:31 2003 From: joyful622@cox.net (joyful622@cox.net) Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 06:44:31 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310161344.h9GDiVQ4028131@Ag.arizona.edu> I'm looking for something to use on my citrus trees for bores. I was given the name of Lindone but have been told recently that that was taken off the market. Can you tell my what I can use on edible fruit trees? From fchaudhry3@cox.net Thu Oct 16 19:50:23 2003 From: fchaudhry3@cox.net (fchaudhry3@cox.net) Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 12:50:23 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310161950.h9GJoNQ4005477@Ag.arizona.edu> We purchasedindoor trees for our new home a month ago. We replanted them into clay pots, 18" in diameter. The ficus are shedding leaves like crazy, and the other plant, with long leaves like banana leaves seems to be rotting. The palm tree leaves are becoming brown around the edges. What am I doing wrong? How much water should I give them and how often? From john.hosmar@earthlink.net Thu Oct 16 20:29:46 2003 From: john.hosmar@earthlink.net (john.hosmar@earthlink.net) Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 13:29:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310162029.h9GKTkQ4013104@Ag.arizona.edu> My Oranges are not ripe yet, but a few are spliting open. What causes the oranges skin to split? From joyful622@cox.net Thu Oct 16 15:33:41 2003 From: joyful622@cox.net (joyful622@cox.net) Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 08:33:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus Tree Bores Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20031016083333.00aab850@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_831212==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed I've been advised to spray our citrus trees with Lindone to get rid of the bores in it, but I've been told by the nursery that Lindone was removed from the market. Is there another product we can use to save our trees and that is safe to use on edible fruit trees? --=====================_831212==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" I've been advised to spray our citrus trees with Lindone to get rid of the bores in it, but I've been told by the nursery that Lindone was removed from the market. Is there another product we can use to save our trees and that is safe to use on edible fruit trees?
--=====================_831212==_.ALT-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Oct 16 13:02:10 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 13:02:10 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tree "orange" Message-ID: Fred Why don't you call or stop by our Green Valley office? They are located at 18050 S. La Canada Road, Sahuarita, telephone 648-0808. I think they are best able to help answer your question. The symptoms could be caused by lack of water - they will get more information about how you are watering. Might also be a symptom of a root-bound plant. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Fbyocko@aol.com >To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tree "orange" >Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 21:21:29 EDT > > Have a 2 yr. old tree first year did good, this year not so hot. Early >spring all the leaves were green growing, then they turned yellow, around >July some >new growth then stopped.I deep root water and fertilize every 3 mos. All >yellow leaf's have fallen. > > Can help? > >Fred, Green Valley >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Page a contact�s mobile phone with MSN Messenger 6.0. Download it now FREE! http://msnmessenger-download.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Oct 17 00:56:56 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2003 00:56:56 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] oranges split Message-ID: This condition is usually thought to be a result of inappropriate watering practices. You can see a discussion of this under September's or October's Timely Tips at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/sept.htm The only recommendation is to study up on good irrigation practices [see AZ 1151 at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Citrus and implement them for next year's fruit production. >From: john.hosmar@earthlink.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 13:29:46 -0700 (MST) > >My Oranges are not ripe yet, but a few are spliting open. What causes the >oranges skin to split? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Never get a busy signal because you are always connected with high-speed Internet access. Click here to comparison-shop providers. https://broadband.msn.com From cnjlab5@msn.com Fri Oct 17 01:59:25 2003 From: cnjlab5@msn.com (CYNTHIA COON) Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 18:59:25 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Your invited Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20031016185847.049ad4a0@ag.arizona.edu> Ceramic Planter Sale This Weekend Your invited - or send this e-mail on to a gardener you know! All planters are handmade and fired by local potter Jeremy Briddell. The studio is conveniently located in North Tempe near the Desert Botanical Garden. This planter sale coincides with the Botanical Garden plant sale on the 17th, 18th, and 19th of October. The sale will be open from 9am to 5pm on those dates. Planters are also available for custom orders. Sneak peek image attached! DIRECTIONS: We are located in North Tempe - off of 68th Street. We are south of McDowell, north of Mckellips, east of Papago park and west of Scottsdale Road. Head south on 68th Street, just past the light at Continental, go a few more streets to Pierce Street (if you hit McKellips you�ve go too far) Turn right onto Pierce St off of 68th. We are the 4th house down on the south side of the street #207 � look for the signs! If you have any questions please contact: Cyndi Coon or Jeremy Briddell 480.425. 8677 _________________________________________________________________ Try MSN Messenger 6.0 with integrated webcam functionality! http://www.msnmessenger-download.com/tracking/reach_webcam From bpob@cox.net Fri Oct 17 17:56:57 2003 From: bpob@cox.net (bpob) Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2003 10:56:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fox Tail Palm (Wodyetia bifurcata) Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20031017105642.01f51558@ag.arizona.edu> We recently returned from a trip to Queensland, Australia. Saw this beautiful palm (Fox Tail Palm - Wodyetia bifurcata). Can you tell me if this palm is available here, and will it grow in the Phoenix area? Bob O'Brien "bpob" From eaglequads@webtv.net Fri Oct 17 16:30:35 2003 From: eaglequads@webtv.net (J L Retzlaff) Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2003 12:30:35 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] goards Message-ID: <27920-3F90192B-43@storefull-2313.public.lawson.webtv.net> Hi I need info on growing and drying and uses of goards, can you send some email on it can they freez? thanks, 73's Big Jim Retzlaff KA4ZSM From rodmcq6@highstream.net Fri Oct 17 18:35:26 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2003 11:35:26 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oranges Splitting References: <200310162029.h9GKTkQ4013104@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <001901c394dd$723ba2a0$242c0a3f@ibmbna6040> John, The hot weather and inadequate water are causing the oranges to split open. Check out this URL for info on citrus watering: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2003 1:29 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > My Oranges are not ripe yet, but a few are spliting open. What causes the oranges skin to split? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From browncat85032@yahoo.com Fri Oct 17 20:46:34 2003 From: browncat85032@yahoo.com (browncat85032@yahoo.com) Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2003 13:46:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310172046.h9HKkYQ4008551@Ag.arizona.edu> I purchased a 12' jacaranda tree and while bringing it home, the top snapped off. What should I do? I am heartbroken - it was a beautiful tree ;-( Cathie From BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu Fri Oct 17 20:40:44 2003 From: BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2003 13:40:44 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oversized Tractor Tires - FREE Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20031017133647.0497e600@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_12156460==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Greetings, We have 6 oversized tractor tires left over from our garden construction project. They would be great instant raised planter beds. They are available for pick up free of charge, first come first serve. They are located in the South West Corner of the parking lot. Come help your self. Lucy ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert. "The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona." ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ --=====================_12156460==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Greetings,

We have 6 oversized tractor tires left over from our garden construction project. They would be great instant raised planter beds.

They are available for pick up free of charge, first come first serve.

They are located in the South West Corner of the parking lot.

Come help your self.

Lucy

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807

Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax: (602) 470-8092
email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/
http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens

Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program
To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert.

"The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona."
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

--=====================_12156460==_.ALT-- From rodmcq6@highstream.net Fri Oct 17 21:57:23 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2003 14:57:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Jacaranda tree that has been topped. References: <200310172046.h9HKkYQ4008551@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <001301c394f9$a6fd6de0$9d31db43@ibmbna6040> Cathie, Cut off the trunk of the tree approximately 1/4 inch above the next most vigorous limb, that limb will eventually become the leader of the tree and after a few years you will have to look closely to find that spot. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, October 17, 2003 1:46 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I purchased a 12' jacaranda tree and while bringing it home, the top snapped off. What should I do? > > I am heartbroken - it was a beautiful > tree ;-( > > Cathie > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu Sat Oct 18 00:15:24 2003 From: BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2003 17:15:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] The Tires Have Been Claimed Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20031017171246.04994448@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_25181619==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Many thanks to those of you who have already responded requesting the tires. Quickest on the draw was Susan Solliday with Simus Elementary School. She will be by to pick them up so they are no longer available. Lucy ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert. "The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona." ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ --=====================_25181619==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Many thanks to those of you who have already responded requesting the tires.

Quickest on the draw was Susan Solliday with Simus Elementary School.

She will be by to pick them up so they are no longer available.

Lucy

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807

Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax: (602) 470-8092
email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/
http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens

Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program
To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert.

"The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona."
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

--=====================_25181619==_.ALT-- From Thule-APJ@worldnet.att.net Sat Oct 18 03:25:01 2003 From: Thule-APJ@worldnet.att.net (Thule-APJ@worldnet.att.net) Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2003 20:25:01 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310180325.h9I3P1Q4000466@Ag.arizona.edu> How do you care for a Christmas Cactus? From BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu Sat Oct 18 03:55:16 2003 From: BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2003 20:55:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oct/Nov Master Gardener Journal Available on Line Now Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20031017204103.01f6a788@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_1415775==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Greetings! They have done it again! Kudos to Candice Sherrill and her whole writing team, Donna Atwood for the graphic design, and Jo Cook for making it possible to distribute the MG Journal on the web! The Oct/Nov MG Journal is now available on line. Enjoy! http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/index.html Lucy ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert. "The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona." ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ --=====================_1415775==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Greetings!

They have done it again! Kudos to Candice Sherrill and her whole writing team, Donna Atwood for the graphic design, and Jo Cook for making it possible to distribute the MG Journal on the web!

The Oct/Nov MG Journal is now available on line.

Enjoy!

http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/index.html

Lucy

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807

Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax: (602) 470-8092
email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/
http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens

Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program
To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert.

"The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona."
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

--=====================_1415775==_.ALT-- From morrigan19@hotmail.com Sat Oct 18 03:32:38 2003 From: morrigan19@hotmail.com (morrigan19@hotmail.com) Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2003 20:32:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310180332.h9I3WbQ4001119@Ag.arizona.edu> Do you sell tree seedlings or do you know if there is an organization in the state who does? From nashombi@obleton.com Sat Oct 18 04:55:58 2003 From: nashombi@obleton.com (nashombi@obleton.com) Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2003 21:55:58 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310180455.h9I4twQ4006897@Ag.arizona.edu> I've got a row of 3, 20 ft tall cylindrical shaped junipers ajacent to the southwest corner of my Tempe house. There is aprox 3 ft between each trunk. They have been neglected for maybe 15 yrs or so. At this point they are a real eye sore. They look as if they've been hit by a dust devil. They have completely lost their seperate cylindrical shapes and look like one gigantic monstrosity of a bush. They are brownish in spots(not dead leaves, but the green leaves just look dirty). Their branches are growing wildly outward in all directions in patches. I'm thinking of either pruning them or cutting them down completely. BUT, I've never done any type of pruning or shrub removal in my life. My questions are... If I try pruning, how drastically can I cut them back without killing them? (I'm thinking about cutting all the brances off flush to the trunk.) AND Would you advise I prune them now, in October? OR If I decide to just take a chain-saw to them what might be some consequences of cutting them as flush to the ground as possible and leaving it without digging up the roots? From mikemitchell_az@att.net Sat Oct 18 06:21:01 2003 From: mikemitchell_az@att.net (Mike Mitchell) Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2003 23:21:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite tree Message-ID: <000a01c39540$0338b740$3341530c@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C39505.5432DB20 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable We have a mesquite tree with has received a lot of watering over the = past 5 years and has grown like a weed. Recently it split down the = middle due, apparently due to overweight of its branches. We cut it off = at about 6 feet off the ground hoping to save 3 branches. It appears to = have survived and new shoots are sprouting from the remaining branches. = Now I am worried that the remaining branches are getting too heavy and = will split off. The tree man we have been using does not appear to know = how to trim them. Any suggestions. Mike Mitchell =20 ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C39505.5432DB20 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

We have a mesquite tree with has = received a lot of=20 watering over the past 5 years and has grown like a weed. Recently = it=20 split down the middle due, apparently due to overweight of its = branches. =20 We cut it off at about 6 feet off the ground hoping to save 3 = branches. It=20 appears to have survived and new shoots are sprouting from the = remaining=20 branches. Now I am worried that the remaining branches are getting = too=20 heavy and will split off. The tree man we have been using does not = appear=20 to know how to trim them. Any suggestions.

Mike=20 Mitchell

------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C39505.5432DB20-- From j_harrell@NetZero.net Sat Oct 18 17:50:38 2003 From: j_harrell@NetZero.net (Jackie and Bill Harrell) Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2003 10:50:38 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roto-tiller advice Message-ID: <3F917D6E.6030703@NetZero.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------020004040906080108010601 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dear Master Gardeners, What kind of roto-tiller do you use for moderate (at least) use? We have had a Mantis for years and tried to make it work for everything, but the larger areas are taking too long to roto-till - I run out of husband-power before we're finished! My ground hasn't been worked in 2 years and I'm trying to bring back the garden. I know I need to water it better first, but even then, the Mantis doesn't go deeper than 8 inches without a lot of effort, and we do have hard ground below that. And it takes so long. Do YOU guys dig deeper than 8 inches, really? And if so, what kind of machine do you use? In talking to Home Depot rentals, they rent Hondas but say that even one or two "above" the Mantis is still a light machine and needs "pushing on" to make it go deeper. My plots are divided up into smaller areas - 4 x 10, 2 x 10 and pie-shaped pieces in the largest garden. I sure would appreciate hearing what the Master Gardeners use for serious gardening! Thanks! Sincerely, Jackie Harrell --------------020004040906080108010601 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dear Master Gardeners,

    What kind of roto-tiller do you use for moderate (at least) use? We have had a Mantis for years and tried to make it work for everything, but the larger areas are taking too long to roto-till - I run out of husband-power before we're finished!

    My ground hasn't been worked in 2 years and I'm trying to bring back the garden. I know I need to water it better first, but even then, the Mantis doesn't go deeper than 8 inches without a lot of effort, and we do have hard ground below that. And it takes so long.

    Do YOU guys dig deeper than 8 inches, really? And if so, what kind of machine do you use?

    In talking to Home Depot rentals, they rent Hondas but say that even one or two "above" the Mantis is still a light machine and needs "pushing on" to make it go deeper. My plots are divided up into smaller areas - 4 x 10, 2 x 10 and pie-shaped pieces in the largest garden.

    I sure would appreciate hearing what the Master Gardeners use for serious gardening!

     Thanks!
                                                          Sincerely, Jackie Harrell
--------------020004040906080108010601-- From rodmcq6@highstream.net Sun Oct 19 00:07:04 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2003 17:07:04 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Eucalyptus tree with brown leaves References: <200310150446.h9F4kMQ4003998@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <004b01c395d4$ee8f9b20$ca04e043@ibmbna6040> Most Eucalyptus trees are quite drought tolerant and especially an older tree, however they should receive periodic deep watering if the annual rainfall is less than 12 inches. If the leaves first turned light green with dark green veins the problem is called chlorosis which means that iron is not available to the roots. Chlorosis is often caused by too much water. It can be corrected by correcting the watering practice and applying chelated iron to the root zone. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2003 9:46 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > What might cause leaves on a 30 yr. old eucalyptus to dry and turn brown. Most the tree is affected. > the watering hasn't changed and no chemicles have been used in the area. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rodmcq6@highstream.net Sat Oct 18 23:42:02 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2003 16:42:02 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Trees in Trouble References: <200310180455.h9I4twQ4006897@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <003701c395d1$6fcb3e00$ca04e043@ibmbna6040> >From the description that you have given about the condition of your trees your best bet might be to have them removed. Are you sure that your trees are not Italian Cypress whose foliage does possibly resemble a Juniper. I don't know of a cylindrical shaped Juniper. Should you elect to remove the trees by cutting them flush to the ground you will have shoots growing out of the stump. You can stop this by using a chemical available at most nurseries. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, October 17, 2003 9:55 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I've got a row of 3, 20 ft tall cylindrical shaped junipers ajacent to the southwest corner of my Tempe house. There is aprox 3 ft between each trunk. They have been neglected for maybe 15 yrs or so. At this point they are a real eye sore. They look as if they've been hit by a dust devil. They have completely lost their seperate cylindrical shapes and look like one gigantic monstrosity of a bush. They are brownish in spots(not dead leaves, but the green leaves just look dirty). Their branches are growing wildly outward in all directions in patches. I'm thinking of either pruning them or cutting them down completely. BUT, I've never done any type of pruning or shrub removal in my life. My questions are... If I try pruning, how drastically can I cut them back without killing them? (I'm thinking about cutting all the brances off flush to the trunk.) AND Would you advise I prune them now, in October? OR If I decide to just take a chain-saw to them what might be some conseque! > nces of cutting them as flush to the ground as possible and leaving it without digging up the roots? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rodmcq6@highstream.net Sat Oct 18 23:47:04 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2003 16:47:04 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite tree References: <000a01c39540$0338b740$3341530c@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <004301c395d2$23a088e0$ca04e043@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0040_01C39597.7602C840 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Mike, I would suggest that you have a Certrified Arborist look at your = Mesquite tree that has split and tell you what course of action should = be taken. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Mike Mitchell=20 To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Friday, October 17, 2003 11:21 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite tree We have a mesquite tree with has received a lot of watering over the = past 5 years and has grown like a weed. Recently it split down the = middle due, apparently due to overweight of its branches. We cut it off = at about 6 feet off the ground hoping to save 3 branches. It appears to = have survived and new shoots are sprouting from the remaining branches. = Now I am worried that the remaining branches are getting too heavy and = will split off. The tree man we have been using does not appear to know = how to trim them. Any suggestions. Mike Mitchell ------=_NextPart_000_0040_01C39597.7602C840 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Mike,

I would suggest that you have a Certrified Arborist = look at=20 your Mesquite tree that has split and tell you what course of = action=20 should be taken.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick

Master Gardener

----- Original Message -----

From:=20 Mike=20 Mitchell
To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= =20

Sent: Friday, October 17, 2003 = 11:21=20 PM

Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Mesquite=20 tree

We have a mesquite tree with has = received a lot=20 of watering over the past 5 years and has grown like a weed. = Recently it=20 split down the middle due, apparently due to overweight of its = branches. =20 We cut it off at about 6 feet off the ground hoping to save 3 = branches. =20 It appears to have survived and new shoots are sprouting from the = remaining branches. Now I am worried that the remaining branches = are=20 getting too heavy and will split off. The tree man we have been = using=20 does not appear to know how to trim them. Any = suggestions.

Mike=20 Mitchell

------=_NextPart_000_0040_01C39597.7602C840-- From gcapek@earthlink.net Sun Oct 19 18:22:36 2003 From: gcapek@earthlink.net (gcapek@earthlink.net) Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2003 11:22:36 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310191822.h9JIMaQ4010848@Ag.arizona.edu> Recently I have had patches of bermuda grass go from healthy grass to dead in a few weeks regardless of watering. My yard is irrigated. The dead grass looks like ash from a fire, grey colored. Any idea what caused this, and more importantly, what I can do to stop this. I can send a photo if you send me an email adr. Thank you. From watsontl@mindspring.com Sun Oct 19 23:53:52 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2003 16:53:52 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roto-tiller advice References: <3F917D6E.6030703@NetZero.net> Message-ID: <002e01c3969c$40ecef40$6240b83f@S0029317241> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_002B_01C39661.939893B0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I dig down at least 12" when establishing a new garden bed, and will go = a little deeper if there seems to be hardpan at about that level (to = prevent drainage problems). After that, I dig that deeply only rarely, = generally using a spading fork to mix in compost, manure, etc. into the = top few inches of soil. The trick here is to never walk on the = cultivated soil after you've dug it up. You should be able to manage = this, judging from the dimensions you give for your beds. If you can = work them from around the edges, the soil that you loosen will stay that = way, never being packed down by footsteps (or heavy tillers). I use a spade and a spading fork to work the soil. I've seen the = Mantis tiller used and, frankly, can't understand the attraction. It = is good for mixing amendments into the tops layers of soil, but so is a = fork, and the spading fork is cheaper. As for a larger tiller, unless = you are dealing with physical limitations (bad back, etc) that you = didn't mention in your message, that sounds like overkill to me. =20 Consider bringing this garden back one bed at a time, to better conserve = husband-power. Do a thorough digging = (http://www.gardenwithinsight.com/help100/00000608.htm for the basic = instructions on double-digging) and amend the soil with plenty of = organic material and perhaps some soil sulfur. Get things growing, and = when your shovel-weilding spouse has caught his breath. . . Well, I'll = leave the two of you to work the pace of things out. But remember = that, if you stay off the soil afterwards, and keep things growing in = it, then it may be a long time (years) before you need to go through = this again. Tom (not a master gardener, but then, nobody's perfect) ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Jackie and Bill Harrell=20 To: arid gardener=20 Sent: Saturday, October 18, 2003 10:50 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roto-tiller advice Dear Master Gardeners, What kind of roto-tiller do you use for moderate (at least) use? = We have had a Mantis for years and tried to make it work for everything, = but the larger areas are taking too long to roto-till - I run out of = husband-power before we're finished! My ground hasn't been worked in 2 years and I'm trying to bring = back the garden. I know I need to water it better first, but even then, = the Mantis doesn't go deeper than 8 inches without a lot of effort, and = we do have hard ground below that. And it takes so long. Do YOU guys dig deeper than 8 inches, really? And if so, what = kind of machine do you use? In talking to Home Depot rentals, they rent Hondas but say that = even one or two "above" the Mantis is still a light machine and needs = "pushing on" to make it go deeper. My plots are divided up into smaller = areas - 4 x 10, 2 x 10 and pie-shaped pieces in the largest garden. I sure would appreciate hearing what the Master Gardeners use for = serious gardening! Thanks! Sincerely, = Jackie Harrell ------=_NextPart_000_002B_01C39661.939893B0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I dig down at least 12" when = establishing a new=20 garden bed, and will go a little deeper if there seems to be hardpan at = about=20 that level (to prevent drainage problems). After that, I dig = that=20 deeply only rarely, generally using a spading fork to mix in compost, = manure,=20 etc. into the top few inches of soil. The trick here is = to=20 never walk on the cultivated soil after you've dug it=20 up. You should be able to manage this, judging from the = dimensions=20 you give for your beds. If you can work them from around the = edges,=20 the soil that you loosen will stay that way, never being packed down by=20 footsteps (or heavy tillers).

I use a spade and = a spading fork to work=20 the soil. I've seen the Mantis tiller used and, frankly, = can't=20 understand the attraction. It is good for mixing amendments = into the=20 tops layers of soil, but so is a fork, and the spading fork is=20 cheaper. As for a larger tiller, unless you are dealing with = physical limitations (bad back, etc) that you didn't mention in your = message,=20 that sounds like overkill to me.

Consider bringing this garden back one = bed at a=20 time, to better conserve husband-power. Do a thorough = digging (http://www= .gardenwithinsight.com/help100/00000608.htm&n= bsp; for=20 the basic instructions on double-digging) and amend the soil with plenty = of=20 organic material and perhaps some soil sulfur. Get things = growing,=20 and when your shovel-weilding spouse has caught his breath. . . Well, = I'll leave=20 the two of you to work the pace of things out. But remember = that, if=20 you stay off the soil afterwards, and keep things growing in it, then it = may be=20 a long time (years) before you need to go through this = again.

Tom

(not a master gardener, but then, = nobody's=20 perfect)

----- Original Message -----

From:=20 Jackie and=20 Bill Harrell

To: arid gardener

Sent: Saturday, October 18, = 2003 10:50=20 AM

Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Roto-tiller=20 advice

Dear Master Gardeners,

    What = kind of=20 roto-tiller do you use for moderate (at least) use? We have had = a Mantis=20 for years and tried to make it work for everything, but the larger = areas are=20 taking too long to roto-till - I run out of husband-power before we're = finished!

    My ground hasn't been worked in 2 = years=20 and I'm trying to bring back the garden. I know I need to water = it=20 better first, but even then, the Mantis doesn't go deeper than 8 = inches=20 without a lot of effort, and we do have hard ground below that. = And it=20 takes so long.

    Do YOU guys dig deeper than 8 = inches,=20 really? And if so, what kind of machine do you=20 use?

    In talking to Home Depot rentals, they = rent=20 Hondas but say that even one or two "above" the Mantis is still a = light=20 machine and needs "pushing on" to make it go deeper. My plots = are=20 divided up into smaller areas - 4 x 10, 2 x 10 and pie-shaped pieces = in the=20 largest garden.

    I sure would appreciate = hearing what=20 the Master Gardeners use for serious=20 gardening!

     = Thanks!
   =20                =   =20                =   =20                =   =20 Sincerely, Jackie Harrell
------=_NextPart_000_002B_01C39661.939893B0-- From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net Sun Oct 19 23:27:16 2003 From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2003 16:27:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roto-tiller advice References: <3F917D6E.6030703@NetZero.net> Message-ID: <001501c39698$a6b5e600$9a53530c@olin> A few considerations based on my experience. Others will have different experiences and different opinions. Tilling depth ========= The deeper the better. But as a practical matter, eight inches is adequate for most vegetables if there is good drainage in the subsoil and no underlying caliche layer. It is usually best not to bring too much of the subsoil to the top, but the topsoil layer in our desert soil is so thin that it is unavoidable. The best way is to till the basic soil to a depth of eight inches, then add 2 - 4 inches of compost and the recommended amount of agricultural gypsum (directions are on the bag) and till that into the loosened soil. Then wet that in and leave it alone for a few weeks before planting. The compost should be renewed annually because organic matter seems to dissolve in our alkaline soil. After a few years of adding compost and loosening the soil with a tiller, tilling depth to 12 inches (my preference) will not be an issue. If you have a large area, you can buy composted dairy cow manure locally in the Phoenix area at very reasonable price. Tiller Types ========= The mini 2-stroke tillers work well in loose soil where a tiller is not really required. They are also useful for mixing additives in the soil if the soil is already loosened. But it is best to think of them as motorized hoes, not as rototillers. With the 2-stroke cycle engines, one mixes the oil with the gasoline, a formula that ensures gummed up carburetors and makes starting difficult if the tank is not emptied after each use and there is still fuel left in the carburetor. There is also a Honda 4-stroke mini but I don't have any experience with it. I once owned a Mantis which I discarded and I also still have a Troy Bilt mini that has been hanging in the garage for a few years because I really have no use for it. At the higher end there are several brands of 8 HP rear tine rototillers that are great sod busters and work well for the first tilling. I have an 8 HP Troy Bilt that is about 35 years old, have replaced the engine twice, overhauled the transmission once, and have lost count of how many times the tines have been replaced. The soil here is pretty hard on tines. But for most home gardens, these big tillers are not often necessary and you can rent one for the few occasions when it is needed. I no longer use my 8HP Troy Bilt very often since I scaled down the garden space. I now also have a Sears Craftsman tiller with the engine over the tines and I use it almost exclusively. If you have the transport wheels, it' pretty easy to get in an and out of a raised bed using a ramp. The newer engines on rototillers, lawn mowers and most gasoline engines have the carburetor redesigned to reduce pollution which, with the winter fuel additives, has resulted in varnish deposits and gummed up carburetors making starting difficult. An easy fix is to add a fuel stabilizing product to the gasoline container. Olin Miller From azcyclone1@hotmail.com Mon Oct 20 22:14:25 2003 From: azcyclone1@hotmail.com (azcyclone1@hotmail.com) Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 15:14:25 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310202214.h9KMEPQ4011915@Ag.arizona.edu> How do I get the seeds from a Mediterrean Palm tree to germinate as well as the seeds from a desert spoon plant? Also what is the best way to grow/germinate Saguaro seeds? Many thanks for your service and support for these requests. From rchmiel@qwest.net Mon Oct 20 19:31:16 2003 From: rchmiel@qwest.net (Rita Chmiel) Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 12:31:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Help Message-ID: <000001c39740$bf085000$0500a8c0@Rita> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0001_01C39706.12A97800 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have been trying to grow turf in my backyard in Tempe. Half of area gets very little sun and the other half receives sun much of the day. Every gardener I speak to has a different story on what type of sod will grow in these conditions. What do you recommend? Thank you Rita in Tempe ------=_NextPart_000_0001_01C39706.12A97800 Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I have been trying to grow turf in my backyard in =Tempe. = Half of area gets very little sun and the other half receives sun much of the day. = Every gardener I speak to has a different story on what type of sod will grow = in these conditions. What do you recommend?
Thank you
Rita in =Tempe

------=_NextPart_000_0001_01C39706.12A97800-- From vita4832@wmconnect.com Mon Oct 20 17:07:20 2003 From: vita4832@wmconnect.com (vita4832@wmconnect.com) Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 10:07:20 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310201707.h9KH7KQ4010899@Ag.arizona.edu> I recently planted some butterfly weed (asclepias) in my garden and tiny mustard colored substances are appearing on the stems. I can easily rub them off or spray them with a soapy water solution. Is this a disease or something harmless? Please advise how I should deal with this condition. Thank you. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Oct 21 14:20:47 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 14:20:47 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] yellow aphids on milkweed Message-ID: What you describe sounds like yellow aphids that feed on milkweed. This particular aphid lives on oleander and milkweeds only (per Carl Olson's book, "Insects of the Southwest"). We get these aphids in our garden but they never seem to do much harm. You are using the recommended methods to get rid of them -- a strong spray of water every day and/or spraying with a soapy water solution. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: vita4832@wmconnect.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 10:07:20 -0700 (MST) > >I recently planted some butterfly weed (asclepias) in my garden and tiny >mustard colored substances are appearing on the stems. I can easily rub >them off or spray them with a soapy water solution. Is this a disease or >something harmless? Please advise how I should deal with this condition. > >Thank you. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Fretting that your Hotmail account may expire because you forgot to sign in enough? Get Hotmail Extra Storage today! http://join.msn.com/?PAGE=features/es From rchmiel@qwest.net Tue Oct 21 16:24:26 2003 From: rchmiel@qwest.net (Rita Chmiel) Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 09:24:26 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Help Message-ID: <000001c397ef$cf0512e0$0500a8c0@Rita> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0001_01C397B5.22A8ABE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have been trying to contact and all the emails have been coming back. I am still testing to see if this goes through. Please email back to let me know if this is finally working. Rita ------=_NextPart_000_0001_01C397B5.22A8ABE0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have been trying to contact and all the emails have been coming = back

I have been trying to contact and all the emails have = been coming back. I am still testing to see if this goes through. Please = email back to let me know if this is finally working.

Rita

------=_NextPart_000_0001_01C397B5.22A8ABE0-- From cstephens@infinet-is.com Tue Oct 21 20:20:48 2003 From: cstephens@infinet-is.com (Charles Stephens) Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 13:20:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Help References: <000001c397ef$cf0512e0$0500a8c0@Rita> Message-ID: <006a01c39810$d1ea5580$3dda13d8@default> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0067_01C397D6.24774E60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have been trying to contact and all the emails have been coming = backRita, it's working. Charlie Stephens Master Gardener Phoenix ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Rita Chmiel=20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2003 9:24 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Help I have been trying to contact and all the emails have been coming = back. I am still testing to see if this goes through. Please email = back to let me know if this is finally working. =20 Rita ------=_NextPart_000_0067_01C397D6.24774E60 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have been trying to contact and all the emails have = been coming back

Rita,

it's working.

Charlie Stephens
Master Gardener
Phoenix

----- Original Message -----

From:=20 Rita = Chmiel=20

To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu =

Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2003 = 9:24=20 AM

Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Help

I have been trying to = contact and=20 all the emails have been coming back. I am still testing to see = if this=20 goes through. Please email back to let me know if this is = finally=20 working.

Rita

------=_NextPart_000_0067_01C397D6.24774E60-- From plantperson@prodigy.net Tue Oct 21 21:53:28 2003 From: plantperson@prodigy.net (plantperson) Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 14:53:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Christmas Cactus Message-ID: <002101c3981e$8cc70580$b5114bab@z3j2h2> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C397E3.16280E00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable CHRISTMAS (Zygocactus truncatus), or THANKSGIVING (Schlumbergera truncatus) CACTUS The Christmas cactus is a sensational plant when in bloom for the = holiday season---if it blooms. It can be grown with success, but it requires a bit of "watching". The ideal soil for a Christmas cactus is composed of equal parts of = garden loam, leaf mold and clean coarse sand (not from the seashore). Add a = quart of wood ashes per bushel of mixture. If the soil is poor add 1/10 part = of composted cow manure. Most of us however don't have the luxury of mixing our own soil, but if = your Christmas cactus isn't doing well you might try repotting it. The Christmas cactus does not like direct summer sun. If you want to = grow it indoors in a south or west window you should shade the plant with = curtains. The broken shade of a porch or patio is ideal. Or plunge the pot into a shady spot in the garden during the summer months. This plant needs = shading from the sun between May and September. Unlike the prickly members of the cactus family, Christmas cactus is not = a dry soil plant that you can neglect for weeks. It can be drier during Feb/March.....right after flowering, but water it like other houseplants = at other times of the year. During the pre-flowering period of mid-September to mid-November keep it dryish and cool until flower buds form. Then increase water and = temperature. I leave mine outdoors until nights are down to 50 and the buds have = formed. Water normally during the flowering period of mid-November through mid-January with a minimum temperature of 55 degrees. After flowering it needs a rest period, keep it cool (55 degrees) and = water infrequently. During April and May water it thoroughly whenever the soil begins to dry out. June, July and August is a good time to put it outdoors in that shady = spot and start the cycle all over again! Fertilize your plant only when it is actively growing, and propagate by taking cuttings from recently matured stems or shoots when the plant is = not in flower. Maybe a little bit of watching is involved in taking care of your = cactus, but seeing it burst into bloom during the holiday season is worth the = time and effort it takes. ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C397E3.16280E00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

CHRISTMAS
(Zygocactus=20 truncatus),
or
THANKSGIVING
(Schlumbergera=20 truncatus)
CACTUS

The Christmas cactus is a sensational plant = when in=20 bloom for the holiday
season---if it blooms.

It can be grown = with=20 success, but it requires a bit of "watching".

The ideal soil for = a=20 Christmas cactus is composed of equal parts of garden
loam, leaf mold = and=20 clean coarse sand (not from the seashore). Add a quart
of wood ashes = per=20 bushel of mixture. If the soil is poor add 1/10 part of
composted cow = manure.

Most of us however don't have the luxury of mixing our = own soil,=20 but if your
Christmas cactus isn't doing well you might try repotting = it.

The Christmas cactus does not like direct summer sun. If you = want to=20 grow it
indoors in a south or west window you should shade the plant = with=20 curtains.
The broken shade of a porch or patio is ideal. Or plunge = the pot=20 into a
shady spot in the garden during the summer months. This plant = needs=20 shading
from the sun between May and September.

Unlike the = prickly=20 members of the cactus family, Christmas cactus is not a
dry soil = plant that=20 you can neglect for weeks. It can be drier during
Feb/March.....right = after=20 flowering, but water it like other houseplants at
other times of the=20 year.

During the pre-flowering period of mid-September to = mid-November=20 keep it
dryish and cool until flower buds form. Then increase water = and=20 temperature.
I leave mine outdoors until nights are down to 50 and = the buds=20 have formed.

Water normally during the flowering period of = mid-November=20 through
mid-January with a minimum temperature of 55 = degrees.

After=20 flowering it needs a rest period, keep it cool (55 degrees) and=20 water
infrequently.

During April and May water it thoroughly = whenever=20 the soil begins to dry
out.

June, July and August is a good = time to=20 put it outdoors in that shady spot
and start the cycle all over=20 again!

Fertilize your plant only when it is actively growing, and = propagate by
taking cuttings from recently matured stems or shoots = when the=20 plant is not
in flower.

Maybe a little bit of watching is = involved in=20 taking care of your cactus,
but seeing it burst into bloom during the = holiday=20 season is worth the time
and effort it takes.

------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C397E3.16280E00-- From w81269@msn.com Tue Oct 21 21:54:59 2003 From: w81269@msn.com (w81269@msn.com) Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 14:54:59 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310212154.h9LLsxQ4017442@Ag.arizona.edu> I need advice on how to prune my 1 yr. old chilean mesquites.I've checked & read but have not been able to get the proper tecnique.Most of the branches are like 4-6' long. Some have a multi trunk. What do I do? From Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com Wed Oct 22 14:29:23 2003 From: Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com (Zelhart Alan-rpcs30) Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 07:29:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Christmas Cactus Message-ID: <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B9930707DD66EA@az33exm25.corp.mot.com> This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C398A8.E37E911A Content-Type: text/plain This is good information about setting bloom. I moved mine outdoors last week, since it hasn't cooled down as quickly as I would like ;) I'm not sure when it will start setting blooms, perhaps later since I didn't get it out in September. But I'm glad to hear there is hope ;) I have a question for you though. Where is it outdoors that you are able to keep it through the summer, and it survive. Everyone I have tired to keep outdoors through the summer, in a shady spot has died during the hottest part of the summer. I've tried bright shade, dark shade, north side next to the house shade, and not a single one has made it through the summer. About the end of July, first of August they start looking a little sick, then they start turning yellow, then they die. This year, I kept my new Christmas Cactus plant inside, in a bright window (no direct sun) and it has done remarkable well, growing in leaps and bounds. -- Chat with you later, Alan -- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ----- Alan Zelhart gizmoaz@cox.net Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- ***** Every time I lose weight, It finds me again ! -----Original Message----- From: plantperson [mailto:plantperson@prodigy.net] Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2003 2:53 PM To: arid Subject: [Arid_gardener] Christmas Cactus CHRISTMAS (Zygocactus truncatus), or THANKSGIVING (Schlumbergera truncatus) CACTUS The Christmas cactus is a sensational plant when in bloom for the holiday season---if it blooms. It can be grown with success, but it requires a bit of "watching". The ideal soil for a Christmas cactus is composed of equal parts of garden loam, leaf mold and clean coarse sand (not from the seashore). Add a quart of wood ashes per bushel of mixture. If the soil is poor add 1/10 part of composted cow manure. Most of us however don't have the luxury of mixing our own soil, but if your Christmas cactus isn't doing well you might try repotting it. The Christmas cactus does not like direct summer sun. If you want to grow it indoors in a south or west window you should shade the plant with curtains. The broken shade of a porch or patio is ideal. Or plunge the pot into a shady spot in the garden during the summer months. This plant needs shading from the sun between May and September. Unlike the prickly members of the cactus family, Christmas cactus is not a dry soil plant that you can neglect for weeks. It can be drier during Feb/March.....right after flowering, but water it like other houseplants at other times of the year. During the pre-flowering period of mid-September to mid-November keep it dryish and cool until flower buds form. Then increase water and temperature. I leave mine outdoors until nights are down to 50 and the buds have formed. Water normally during the flowering period of mid-November through mid-January with a minimum temperature of 55 degrees. After flowering it needs a rest period, keep it cool (55 degrees) and water infrequently. During April and May water it thoroughly whenever the soil begins to dry out. June, July and August is a good time to put it outdoors in that shady spot and start the cycle all over again! Fertilize your plant only when it is actively growing, and propagate by taking cuttings from recently matured stems or shoots when the plant is not in flower. Maybe a little bit of watching is involved in taking care of your cactus, but seeing it burst into bloom during the holiday season is worth the time and effort it takes. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C398A8.E37E911A Content-Type: text/html Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 PCFET0NUWVBFIEhUTUwgUFVCTElDICItLy9XM0MvL0RURCBIVE1MIDQuMCBUcmFuc2l0aW9uYWwv L0VOIj4NCjxIVE1MPjxIRUFEPg0KPE1FVEEgSFRUUC1FUVVJVj0iQ29udGVudC1UeXBlIiBDT05U RU5UPSJ0ZXh0L2h0bWw7IGNoYXJzZXQ9dXMtYXNjaWkiPg0KPFRJVExFPk1lc3NhZ2U8L1RJVExF Pg0KDQo8TUVUQSBjb250ZW50PSJNU0hUTUwgNi4wMC4yODAwLjEyNjQiIG5hbWU9R0VORVJBVE9S Pg0KPFNUWUxFPjwvU1RZTEU+DQo8L0hFQUQ+DQo8Qk9EWSBiZ0NvbG9yPSNmZmZmZmY+DQo8RElW PjxTUEFOIGNsYXNzPTA4NTA3MjUxNC0yMjEwMjAwMz48Rk9OVCBmYWNlPVZlcmRhbmEgY29sb3I9 IzAwMDBmZiBzaXplPTI+VGhpcyANCmlzIGdvb2QgaW5mb3JtYXRpb24gYWJvdXQgc2V0dGluZyBi bG9vbS4mbmJzcDsgSSBtb3ZlZCBtaW5lIG91dGRvb3JzIGxhc3Qgd2VlaywgDQpzaW5jZSBpdCBo YXNuJ3QgY29vbGVkIGRvd24gYXMgcXVpY2tseSBhcyBJIHdvdWxkIGxpa2UgOykmbmJzcDsgSSdt 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dXJzdCBpbnRvIGJsb29tIGR1cmluZyB0aGUgDQogIGhvbGlkYXkgc2Vhc29uIGlzIHdvcnRoIHRo ZSB0aW1lPEJSPmFuZCBlZmZvcnQgaXQgDQp0YWtlcy48L0RJVj48L0JMT0NLUVVPVEU+PC9CT0RZ PjwvSFRNTD4NCg== ------_=_NextPart_001_01C398A8.E37E911A-- From shopnsave2@cs.com Wed Oct 22 17:13:56 2003 From: shopnsave2@cs.com (shopnsave2@cs.com) Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 10:13:56 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310221713.h9MHDuQ4004766@Ag.arizona.edu> Where would I find the information on how to trim/prune the Mesquite trees? From cchare@qwest.net Wed Oct 22 16:45:46 2003 From: cchare@qwest.net (cchare@qwest.net) Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 09:45:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310221645.h9MGjkQ4027492@Ag.arizona.edu> Can I use ammonium sulfate or nitrate to fertilize citrus trees? How much should one use? Thank you. Curtis Hare From jb414@cox.net Wed Oct 22 01:37:02 2003 From: jb414@cox.net (jb414@cox.net) Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 18:37:02 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310220137.h9M1b2Q4023327@Ag.arizona.edu> Several of our citrus trees - grapefruit and orange - have curling leaves and don't look well. Other trees next to them look good and healthy. All are mature trees, 15-20 years old. What causes this and what should we be doing to help our trees? Also 1 tree, a tangelo, has completely died - it was loaded with fruit and then branches started dying. From rodmcq6@highstream.net Wed Oct 22 23:38:20 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 16:38:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning References: <200310212154.h9LLsxQ4017442@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <001201c398f6$e3bd0be0$c32c0a3f@ibmbna6040> Very little pruning should be done to newly planted trees until the tree is at least two years old. The exception is to remove any dead, damaged or crossing branches. Limbs can be shortened by cutting to a side branch. Excellent info is available on line in the Master Gardener Manual chapter on Pruning at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/ A book titled DESERT LANDSCAPING FOR BEGINNERS written by master gardeners has an excellent chapter on Pruning. This book is available at many nurseries, bookstores and U. of A., Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040. Price is about $15.00. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2003 2:54 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I need advice on how to prune my 1 yr. old chilean mesquites.I've checked & read but have not been able to get the proper tecnique.Most of the branches are like 4-6' long. Some have a multi trunk. What do I do? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rodmcq6@highstream.net Wed Oct 22 22:42:47 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 15:42:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus, Fertil;izing References: <200310221645.h9MGjkQ4027492@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <003701c398ed$d29a3b20$bb04e043@ibmbna6040> Curtis, Citrus should be fertilized three times a year in Feb. or March, April or May, and July or August with a total for the year of one pound of nitrogen for mature citrus. If you use amonium sulfate which is 21% nitrogen you should apply a total of 5 pounds for the year. Do not use amonium nitrate, it contains 34% nitrogen and releases too fast for warm weather use, it would burn your citrus. Amonium nitrate is used mainly for fertilizing turf in the winter. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, October 22, 2003 9:45 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Can I use ammonium sulfate or nitrate to fertilize citrus trees? How much should one use? Thank you. Curtis Hare > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From jrtandmet@aol.com Wed Oct 22 22:28:06 2003 From: jrtandmet@aol.com (jrtandmet@aol.com) Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 15:28:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310222228.h9MMS6Q4015884@Ag.arizona.edu> We have a prickly pear catus that has a white spongy material exuding from the pores on all the paddles. What should we do to correct this? From susan@greenleafcompaction.com Wed Oct 22 23:47:37 2003 From: susan@greenleafcompaction.com (susan@greenleafcompaction.com) Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 16:47:37 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310222347.h9MNlbQ4002332@Ag.arizona.edu> Do you have a list of plants that are appropriate for placement near pools (i.e., low litter)? Thanks. From ibba@uswest.net Thu Oct 23 03:03:34 2003 From: ibba@uswest.net (Iva Anderson) Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 20:03:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvillea Message-ID: I have three potted bougainvillea, white, purple, pink, that I would like to permanently plant in the ground. They are all now doing very well on southern and western exposures. Do they need trellis' - how big do they get - how far apart should they be planted? From rodmcq6@highstream.net Thu Oct 23 00:19:12 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 17:19:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus leaves curling References: <200310220137.h9M1b2Q4023327@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <003101c398fb$51113000$c32c0a3f@ibmbna6040> Curling and or distorted leaves on citrus can be caused by an insect called thrips. Usually the damage is only cosmetic and is not reason for concern. Inadequate irrigation and fertilization will cause citrus trees to look unhealthy. Since you do have healthy looking trees there may be a disease causing the problem. A bullitin titled CITRUS TREES IN THE HOME GARDEN is available for $1.00 from U. of A., Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040. This bulletin details citrus care as well as diseases that can be a problem. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From: To: Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2003 6:37 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Several of our citrus trees - grapefruit and orange - have curling leaves and don't look well. Other trees next to them look good and healthy. All are mature trees, 15-20 years old. What causes this and what should we be doing to help our trees? Also 1 tree, a tangelo, has completely died - it was loaded with fruit and then branches started dying. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From amay@azcc.arizona.edu Thu Oct 23 16:51:01 2003 From: amay@azcc.arizona.edu (Amber May) Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2003 09:51:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] watering desert trees Message-ID: <08763362EA8F5442887E9550C3B957F8010EB91D@azccpo1.azcc.local> I've planted some desert trees in the last 6 months and have watered them every 2-3 days (total of 4-6 gallons) using a drip system. I have wanted the trees to grow quickly, but have heard that over-watering desert trees can cause rot, or prevent them from being truly heat tolerant. They have grown rapidly, but I am wondering if I am over or under-watering them and if I need to change the watering schedule now that we are nearing a cooler season. Thanks. ACM From peacetolive@cox.net Thu Oct 23 21:54:23 2003 From: peacetolive@cox.net (peacetolive@cox.net) Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2003 14:54:23 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310232154.h9NLsNQ4028089@Ag.arizona.edu> Pomegranites...what is up with them all of sudden turning white inside instead of red? Still sweet, but not as sweet andddd the inner seeds of the seeds seem larger and harder. a friend next door has had her bush/tree for 30 years with huge success with red pomegranets, another friend has a tree that is 3 years old and has only produced white on the inside. I explained to the woman next door about my friends problem with white pomegranets and she said she hasn't opened one from this years tree, and much to her surprise when she did, found that they too wwere white? Hope this makes sense. We are in a quandry of why right now, so thought we would ask the experts. thank you in advance. From rodmcq6@highstream.net Fri Oct 24 00:34:11 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2003 17:34:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cochineal Scale References: <200310222228.h9MMS6Q4015884@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <004d01c399c6$8c772a20$4e04e043@ibmbna6040> An Insect called Cochineal Scale is responsible for the white spongy material that you are seeing on your Prickly Pear cactus. A strong spray of water will usually remove them from the cacti. This will be necessary every few months. The red beneath the cottony material is the insect which incidently was used by the Indians to make red dye. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, October 22, 2003 3:28 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > We have a prickly pear catus that has a white spongy material exuding from the pores on all the paddles. What should we do to correct this? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rodmcq6@highstream.net Fri Oct 24 00:23:13 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2003 17:23:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] watering desert trees References: <08763362EA8F5442887E9550C3B957F8010EB91D@azccpo1.azcc.local> Message-ID: <004501c399c5$04c91580$4e04e043@ibmbna6040> Amber, You are still watering your desert adapted trees at a rate and interval that is recommended for three to four weeks after planting. As long as this hot weather lasts and hopefully it won't be much longer your trees should be watered every week to 10 days with enough water to wet the entire root zone. to a depth of two to three feet. As the weather cools continue applying the same amount of water but gradually extend the interval to three weeks during winter. An excellent booklet titled LANDSCAPE WATERING BY THE NUMBERS is available from most nurseries and your cities Water Conservation Dept. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ----- Original Message ----- From: "Amber May" To: Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2003 9:51 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] watering desert trees > I've planted some desert trees in the last 6 months and have watered them every 2-3 days (total of 4-6 gallons) using a drip system. I have wanted the trees to grow quickly, but have heard that over-watering desert trees can cause rot, or prevent them from being truly heat tolerant. They have grown rapidly, but I am wondering if I am over or under-watering them and if I need to change the watering schedule now that we are nearing a cooler season. Thanks. > > ACM > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rodmcq6@highstream.net Fri Oct 24 00:46:48 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2003 17:46:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvillea References: Message-ID: <005301c399c8$4fcab720$4e04e043@ibmbna6040> Iva, When you transplant your bougainvillea be very careful not to disturb the roots, that is one thing that bougainvillea does not like. If you are planting against a building or a fence you probably should use a trellis to tie the canes to and to help to keep the plant confined. I have a very vigorous red ( Barbara Karst ) which grows to 20 feet high and nearly as wide. Most other colors are not quite that vigorous. I would suggest not planting any closer than 8 feet apart. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ----- Original Message ----- From: "Iva Anderson" To: Sent: Wednesday, October 22, 2003 8:03 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvillea > I have three potted bougainvillea, white, purple, pink, that I would like to > permanently plant in the ground. They are all now doing very well on > southern and western exposures. Do they need trellis' - how big do they > get - how far apart should they be planted? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu Fri Oct 24 02:45:58 2003 From: BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2003 19:45:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] question from Maricopa resident on cactus Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20031023194513.05013210@ag.arizona.edu> ---------- Forwarded message ---------- Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 14:27:50 -0700 (MST) From: jrtandmet@aol.com To: webmaster@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: Comment from the College site A new comment has been posted to the College general site Individual: Elaine Thomas Email: jrtandmet@aol.com City: Scottsdale State: Arizona Country: USA Comment: What should I do with my prickly pear cactus which has white sticky substance on the paddles?Thank you. From cstephens@infinet-is.com Fri Oct 24 03:17:03 2003 From: cstephens@infinet-is.com (Charles Stephens) Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2003 20:17:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pomagranates References: <200310232154.h9NLsNQ4028089@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <004401c399dd$4cd73420$a7da13d8@default> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0041_01C399A2.9F5B0540 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable You may just be harvesting a little too early. Mine typically color up = on the outside before they are really ripe. Also, the weather probably = has something to do with it. We've been having record setting heat this = year. Try waiting a few weeks Good luck, Charlie Stephens Master Gardener Phoenix ----- Original Message -----=20 From: peacetolive@cox.net=20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2003 2:54 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Pomegranites...what is up with them all of sudden turning white inside = instead of red? Still sweet, but not as sweet andddd the inner seeds of = the seeds seem larger and harder. a friend next door has had her bush/tree for 30 years with huge = success with red pomegranets, another friend has a tree that is 3 years = old and has only produced white on the inside. I explained to the woman = next door about my friends problem with white pomegranets and she said = she hasn't opened one from this years tree, and much to her surprise = when she did, found that they too wwere white? Hope this makes sense. We are in a quandry of why right now, so = thought we would ask the experts. thank you in advance. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener ------=_NextPart_000_0041_01C399A2.9F5B0540 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

You may just be harvesting a little too early. Mine typically color = up on=20 the outside before they are really ripe. Also, the weather probably has=20 something to do with it. We've been having record setting heat this = year. Try=20 waiting a few weeks

Good luck,

Charlie Stephens
Master Gardener
Phoenix

----- Original Message -----

From:=20 peacetolive@cox.net

To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu =

Sent: Thursday, October 23, = 2003 2:54=20 PM

Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Question from=20 Home-Hort WWW page

Pomegranites...what is up with them all of sudden = turning white=20 inside instead of red? Still sweet, but not as sweet andddd the = inner=20 seeds of the seeds seem larger and harder.
a friend next door has = had her=20 bush/tree for 30 years with huge success with red pomegranets, another = friend=20 has a tree that is 3 years old and has only produced white on the=20 inside. I explained to the woman next door about my friends = problem with=20 white pomegranets and she said she hasn't opened one from this years = tree, and=20 much to her surprise when she did, found that they too wwere = white?
Hope=20 this makes sense. We are in a quandry of why right now, so = thought we=20 would ask the experts. thank you in=20 = advance.

_______________________________________________
Arid_g= ardener=20 mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu=
http://Ag.A= rizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
------=_NextPart_000_0041_01C399A2.9F5B0540-- From bwjones123@hotmail.com Fri Oct 24 15:18:13 2003 From: bwjones123@hotmail.com (bwjones123@hotmail.com) Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2003 08:18:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310241518.h9OFIDAi001691@Ag.arizona.edu> my father is having a house built in northwest tucson. I have asked the builder to relocate any plants before digging. Is there anything else I should do to preserve plants or top soil before construction or to prevent damage to plants/soil? thanks! From rodmcq6@highstream.net Fri Oct 24 16:45:26 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2003 09:45:26 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tree "orange" References: <44.368aaee0.2cbf4c99@aol.com> Message-ID: <003101c39a4e$3bbbdd00$552c0a3f@ibmbna6040> Fred, I haven't seen an answer to your question about why your orange tree has lost its leaves. I assume that you live in Green Valley or is your last name Green Valley. In either case if you live any where in Arizona where you can grow citrus, watering once every three months is grossly inadequate and the reason that the leaves have dropped. Check out this site for info on proper watering for citrus: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2003 6:21 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tree "orange" > Have a 2 yr. old tree first year did good, this year not so hot. Early > spring all the leaves were green growing, then they turned yellow, around July some > new growth then stopped.I deep root water and fertilize every 3 mos. All > yellow leaf's have fallen. > > Can help? > > Fred, Green Valley > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From pwolterb@Ag.arizona.edu Fri Oct 24 17:19:55 2003 From: pwolterb@Ag.arizona.edu (Paul Wolterbeek) Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2003 10:19:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Arboretum Plant Sale ends Monday Message-ID: <3.0.6.32.20031024101955.00b3fc00@ag.arizona.edu> greetings listserve administrators! could you share this "final notice" about the BTA fall plant sale? my thanks! ~paul boyce thompson arboretum _____________ Fall Plant Sale ends Oct. 27 Just a few days remain to enjoy great savings on drought-tolerant plants during the Fall Plant Sale at Boyce Thompson Arboretum. And its a bit cooler up in superior at 2,200 feet elevation; come stroll the tree-shaded trails this weekend, then bring home a carload of wonderful autumn landscaping plants. Final weekend programs include a question-and-answer session with Catherine "The Herb Lady" Crowley Saturday from 10 a.m. til noon at the Visitor Center, and a tree pruning workshop Sunday afternoon at 1:30 with Horticulturist Kim Stone. For full details about the plant sale check out the website: http://arboretum.ag.arizona.edu/events/plantsale.html From gwright@Ag.arizona.edu Fri Oct 24 17:32:44 2003 From: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu (Glenn C. Wright) Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2003 10:32:44 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Message from Inge Herbert Fwd: curling leaves Message-ID: <5.1.1.6.2.20031024103208.029b54d0@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_61203687==.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed >From: "Inge Herbert" >To: >Subject: curling leaves >Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2003 07:46:09 -0700 >X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook, Build 10.0.2616 >Importance: Normal > >Hi, > >We leave in surprise and have a few citrus trees. They produce quite a >lot of fruit, but the leaves do curl, what is the cause? The trees were >planted last year. > >We would appreciate an answer if possible. > >Thank you > >Inge Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D. Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist University of Arizona - Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center 2186 W. County 15th Street Somerton, AZ 85350 Phone: 928-726-0458 FAX: 928-726-1363 e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu --=====================_61203687==.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

From: "Inge Herbert" <iherbert1@cox.net>
To: <gwright@Ag.arizona.edu>
Subject: curling leaves
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2003 07:46:09 -0700
X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook, Build 10.0.2616
Importance: Normal

Hi,

We leave in surprise and have a few citrus trees. They produce quite a lot of fruit, but the leaves do curl, what is the cause? The trees were planted last year.

We would appreciate an answer if possible.

Thank you

Inge

Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D.
Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist
University of Arizona - Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center
2186 W. County 15th Street
Somerton, AZ 85350
Phone: 928-726-0458
FAX: 928-726-1363
e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu --=====================_61203687==.ALT-- From fittedshirt@hotmail.com Fri Oct 24 22:24:42 2003 From: fittedshirt@hotmail.com (Thomas Homans) Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2003 16:24:42 -0600 Subject: [Arid_gardener] browning yellow bells Message-ID: Last october a local nursery planted what I considered to be 2 5 gal. yellow bells that were "stressed". By that I mean that approx. a third of their leaves were brown and crunchy when planted. They looked haggard the entire winter and greened up in the spring, probably tripling in size until the heat came on. THIS october they seem to be doing the same thing, browning from the bottom up, except this year the browning is even more pronounced. These bushes receive direct sunlight from sunrise until approx. 2-3pm every afternoon and are watered to a depth of 1-2 feet twice a week. Doesn't crunchy brown usually indicate a lack of water? I can't imagine I'm underwatering, but I don't know. I also have in my yard about 10 orange jubillee that were planted at the same time as these yellow bells, and they're all over 6 feet tall now, on the same watering schedule as the yellow bells. Are jubillee just hardier here? thanks tom _________________________________________________________________ Add MSN 8 Internet Software to your current Internet access and enjoy patented spam control and more. Get two months FREE! http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/byoa From azdorans@att.net Sat Oct 25 15:27:14 2003 From: azdorans@att.net (azdorans@att.net) Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2003 08:27:14 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310251527.h9PFREAi002995@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a Diller orange tree that has been in the ground for 5 years. This past summer (and now) the ends of the leaves in the middle have been a dark brown. Production for the tree, as well as my pink grapefruit tree is way down. I bought the trees from Greenfield Citrus in Mesa, and they have been very healthy until this past year. Any ideas as to what the problem could be? Thanks. From watsontl@mindspring.com Sat Oct 25 04:48:45 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2003 21:48:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: browning yellow bells References: Message-ID: <024901c39ab3$46946660$6240b83f@S0029317241> It could also indicate salt poisoning, which can cause the tips and edges of leaves to develop a brown, almost burned look. Root fungus diseases can also cause such symptoms. However, since they were okay until just now, and are doing what they did this time last year, I've got to wonder if this isn't just a seasonal change. Some plants, when they go dormant (or semidormant) sacrifice leaves as part of their preparation. It's possibly you don't have a problem at all. (Unfortunately, only time will tell.) Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Thomas Homans" To: Sent: Friday, October 24, 2003 3:24 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] browning yellow bells > Last october a local nursery planted what I considered to be 2 5 gal. yellow > bells that were "stressed". By that I mean that approx. a third of their > leaves were brown and crunchy when planted. They looked haggard the entire > winter and greened up in the spring, probably tripling in size until the > heat came on. THIS october they seem to be doing the same thing, browning > from the bottom up, except this year the browning is even more pronounced. > > These bushes receive direct sunlight from sunrise until approx. 2-3pm every > afternoon and are watered to a depth of 1-2 feet twice a week. Doesn't > crunchy brown usually indicate a lack of water? I can't imagine I'm > underwatering, but I don't know. I also have in my yard about 10 orange > jubillee that were planted at the same time as these yellow bells, and > they're all over 6 feet tall now, on the same watering schedule as the > yellow bells. Are jubillee just hardier here? > > thanks > tom > > _________________________________________________________________ > Add MSN 8 Internet Software to your current Internet access and enjoy > patented spam control and more. Get two months FREE! > http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/byoa > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net Sun Oct 26 04:09:07 2003 From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2003 21:09:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] browning yellow bells References: Message-ID: <000601c39b76$eaf29b00$9c51530c@olin> Yellow Balls, Tecoma stans augustata, which is the most common variety of yellow bells grown in the valley, are cold deciduous (or semi deciduous - not certain of the correct term). In our part of the valley, one of those "colder valley locations", they always shed most of their leaves in winter and sometimes all of the leaves will drop. Ours have lost their bright green luster but haven't really turned brown yet, probably because of the later warm weather. So what you are seeing is probably normal. Once established, they don't need much water. They can get by with monthly watering in the summer to a depth of a foot or two once each month but will look better and bloom more if watered every two weeks. Our Orange Bells, which was trade-marked as 'Orange Jubilee' by Mountain States Nursery, is evergreen and blooms profusely nearly every month of the year with the exception of the coldest winter months. I'm not certain of the watering needs because we have it on a drip system with other moderate water use shrubs but I suspect it is getting more water than it really needs. Olin Miller ----- Original Message ----- From: "Thomas Homans" > Last october a local nursery planted what I considered to be 2 5 gal. yellow > bells that were "stressed". By that I mean that approx. a third of their > leaves were brown and crunchy when planted. They looked haggard the entire > winter and greened up in the spring, probably tripling in size until the > heat came on. THIS october they seem to be doing the same thing, browning > from the bottom up, except this year the browning is even more pronounced. > > These bushes receive direct sunlight from sunrise until approx. 2-3pm every > afternoon and are watered to a depth of 1-2 feet twice a week. Doesn't > crunchy brown usually indicate a lack of water? I can't imagine I'm > underwatering, but I don't know. I also have in my yard about 10 orange > jubillee that were planted at the same time as these yellow bells, and > they're all over 6 feet tall now, on the same watering schedule as the > yellow bells. Are jubillee just hardier here? > > thanks > tom From jwbgood@AOL.com Sun Oct 26 23:06:24 2003 From: jwbgood@AOL.com (jwbgood@AOL.com) Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2003 16:06:24 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310262306.h9QN6OAi004411@Ag.arizona.edu> In my Tempe yard is a acacia (senesis?) tree, in August the leaves started to turn brown. Today, 1/4 of the tree is still green and the brown leaves are just beginning to fall. Do you have any suggestions? I appreciate your assistance. From rodmcq6@highstream.net Sun Oct 26 19:36:18 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2003 12:36:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus with brown leaf tips References: <200310251527.h9PFREAi002995@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000c01c39bf8$6eb5aaa0$1504e043@ibmbna6040> The brown leaf tips may be from salt burn. If enough water is not being applied to flush the salts out of the root zone the results will show up on the leaves. Be sure that the water is penetrating two to three feet deep each time that you water. The hotter than normal temps this summer may also have contributed. It is normal for citrus trees to not produce much fruit until they are at least 5 years old. Once the do start producing it is also normal to have alternate good and bad years. Check out this site for information on proper citrus watering: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, October 25, 2003 8:27 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I have a Diller orange tree that has been in the ground for 5 years. This past summer (and now) the ends of the leaves in the middle have been a dark brown. Production for the tree, as well as my pink grapefruit tree is way down. I bought the trees from Greenfield Citrus in Mesa, and they have been very healthy until this past year. Any ideas as to what the problem could be? Thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From danmarcs@aol.com Mon Oct 27 13:27:11 2003 From: danmarcs@aol.com (danmarcs@aol.com) Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 06:27:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310271327.h9RDRBAi028430@Ag.arizona.edu> Have a problem with leaf cutting ants stripping leafs off of plants - how do I get rid of them? From x211@cox.net Sun Oct 26 19:24:07 2003 From: x211@cox.net (Catheryn Smith) Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2003 12:24:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] will it grow in arizona? Message-ID: <000801c39bf6$b9ec5840$8f8d0244@mainsystem> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C39BBC.0D56B8D0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I'm in Maricopa Co and would like to grow a Kiwi Vine and Ginger for = cooking do you have any information ? catheryn smith ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C39BBC.0D56B8D0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I'm in Maricopa Co and would like to grow a Kiwi = Vine and=20 Ginger for cooking

do you have any information ?

catheryn smith

------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C39BBC.0D56B8D0-- From gwright@Ag.arizona.edu Mon Oct 27 15:28:46 2003 From: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu (Glenn C. Wright) Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 08:28:46 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd message: GRAPEFRUIT Message-ID: <5.1.1.6.2.20031027082801.00b73950@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_494562==.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Please advise this lady. Thanks, GCW >From: Cookque47@aol.com >Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2003 14:28:41 EDT >Subject: GRAPEFRUIT >To: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu >X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Windows sub 124 > >MY GRAPEFRUIT ARE FALLING FROM TREE. presently HAVE THREE GROCERY BAGS. . >what IS THE PROBLEM Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D. Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist University of Arizona - Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center 2186 W. County 15th Street Somerton, AZ 85350 Phone: 928-726-0458 FAX: 928-726-1363 e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu --=====================_494562==.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Please advise this lady.
Thanks,
GCW

From: Cookque47@aol.com
Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2003 14:28:41 EDT
Subject: GRAPEFRUIT
To: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu
X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Windows sub 124

MY GRAPEFRUIT ARE FALLING FROM TREE. presently HAVE THREE GROCERY BAGS. .
what IS THE PROBLEM

Hi Ted;

Here's a few web pages that can give you some information about the plants in question. Sounds like you have a pretty landscape; I love the way the puple flowers of ruellia look against the orange flowers of the orange bells!

Good luck!

Palo Brea - be advised that the scientfic name has recently been changed from Cercidium praecox to Parkinsonia praecox

http://ag.arizona.edu/classes/lar520/unit4/cercprae.htm

http://www.mswn.com/I-Parkinsonia%20praecox.htm

Ruellia - there are couple of different species used in the landscape. I'm not sure which one is called "Desert Ruellia"

http://ag.arizona.edu/classes/lar520/unit3/ruelpeni.htm

http://www.mswn.com/I-Ruellia%20penin-1.htm

Orange Jubilee http://www.mswn.com/I-Tecoma%20OJ-1.htm

Kelly

starktddybr@aol.com wrote:

I just purchased a new home and have the following plants which I cannot find in Pruning Planting and Care-common names only-Desert ruellia, Orange Jubilee, and a Palo Brea tree. Can someone tell me where to look? Thanks Ted

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Arid_gardener mailing list
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http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener

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Exclusive Video Premiere - Britney Spears --0-1296168654-1067357684=:12635-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Oct 28 19:48:33 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 19:48:33 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] pruning native plants Message-ID: Desert ruellia -- Ruellia species (page 144) Orange Jubilee -- Tecoma (page 149) - this species not specifically addressed Palo brea -- Cercidium species (page 95, 96) - this species not specifically addressed All require very minimal pruning. Enjoy your new home and beautiful plants! Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: starktddybr@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 20:28:35 -0700 (MST) > >I just purchased a new home and have the following plants which I cannot >find in Pruning Planting and Care-common names only-Desert ruellia, Orange >Jubilee, and a Palo Brea tree. Can someone tell me where to look? Thanks >Ted > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Enjoy MSN 8 patented spam control and more with MSN 8 Dial-up Internet Service. Try it FREE for one month! http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/dialup From lawrencekasian@cs.com Tue Oct 28 16:53:22 2003 From: lawrencekasian@cs.com (lawrencekasian@cs.com) Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 09:53:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200310281653.h9SGrMAi011878@Ag.arizona.edu> I have ten Italian Cypress trees I planted 14 years ago. In the past year, half of them at the top 6-8 feet or so have started to lean over. I have them planted in a row as a border. What can I do to straighten them at the top? What is my problem Thanks....lk From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Oct 29 00:47:03 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 00:47:03 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Western Soapberry trees in Tucson? Message-ID: Check first with Desert Survivors (791-9309). I believe they had some stock this fall, but just finished their fall sale so I don't know what is available now. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Jim Davis >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Western Soapberry trees in Tucson? >Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 08:49:57 -0700 > >Does anyone know of a nursery in or around Tucson carrying Western >Soapberry (Sapindus drummondii) trees, preferably in 5 gallon containers? > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Enjoy MSN 8 patented spam control and more with MSN 8 Dial-up Internet Service. Try it FREE for one month! http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/dialup From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Oct 29 00:40:57 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 00:40:57 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] eradicating salt cedar Message-ID: >From what I have read, the most successful methods to date have been to chainsaw out the salt cedar and then to selectively treat sprouts with Roundup as they appear. For more extensive information, see: http://www.hort.agri.umn.edu/h5015/98papers/mccown.html A web search of "eradicate salt cedar Arizona" will give you more than a hundred articles dealing with this very difficult issue. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: hgtreasurer@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 09:36:57 -0700 (MST) > >I represent a homeowners association in central Phoenix. We want to >eradicate salt cedar growing in an alley. First we need to identify the >water source that allow the plant to exist. Next would be to eradicate. >Are products such as Garlon readily available for (responsible and >reasonably knowledgeable)non-professionals for use in such a project? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Never get a busy signal because you are always connected with high-speed Internet access. Click here to comparison-shop providers. https://broadband.msn.com From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Oct 30 01:46:22 2003 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 18:46:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: Sick boxwood] Message-ID: <3FA06D6E.2010608@qwest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------040000060004000407010607 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="------------050707080308030607050409" --------------050707080308030607050409 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I am unable to assist Candice [our outgoing Master Gardener Journal editor] with this problem with her friend's boxwoods...these just aren't plants that I've dealt with here in Arizona. Could someone do the honors? No need to keep me in the loop as I'm on the list-server. Many thanks. Linda -------- Original Message -------- Subject: Sick boxwood Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2003 19:55:11 -0700 From: "Candice Sherrill" To: "Guy, Linda" Hi Linda Hope your weekend went well. I thought of something you might be able to help me with. I had e-mailed Kelly about this but she resigned before getting back to me on it. I met a neighbor lady out taking pictures, who asked whether I had any idea what was wrong with her boxwoods. (See attached). She's a winter visitor, so they probably don't get watered much during the summer. The thing is, there must be 5 or 6 inches of dead leaves underneath the green part. I could hardly push my finger down through them. Should she prune severely and clean out the dead stuff? Next spring before she leaves for home? Or is it something else? If you could enlighten me, I'd sure appreciate it. Thanks Candice ____________________________________________________ IncrediMail - Email has finally evolved - Click Here --------------050707080308030607050409 Content-Type: multipart/related; boundary="------------030400080104020607030809" --------------030400080104020607030809 Content-Type: multipart/related; boundary="------------000401070303040407090807" --------------000401070303040407090807 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I am unable to assist Candice [our outgoing Master Gardener Journal editor] with this problem with her friend's boxwoods...these just aren't plants that I've dealt with here in Arizona. Could someone do the honors? No need to keep me in the loop as I'm on the list-server. Many thanks.

Linda

-------- Original Message --------

Subject:	Sick boxwood
Date:	Sun, 26 Oct 2003 19:55:11 -0700
From:	"Candice Sherrill" <candicesherrill@cox.net>
To:	"Guy, Linda" <lindaguy@qwest.net>

Hi Linda

Hope your weekend went well. I thought of something you might be able to help me with. I had e-mailed Kelly about this but she resigned before getting back to me on it.

I met a neighbor lady out taking pictures, who asked whether I had any idea what was wrong with her boxwoods. (See attached).

She's a winter visitor, so they probably don't get watered much during the summer. The thing is, there must be 5 or 6 inches of dead leaves underneath the green part. I could hardly push my finger down through them. Should she prune severely and clean out the dead stuff? Next spring before she leaves for home? Or is it something else?

If you could enlighten me, I'd sure appreciate it.

Thanks

Candice

____________________________________________________

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