From olinger@cox.net Mon Sep 1 01:23:11 2003 From: olinger@cox.net (olinger@cox.net) Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 18:23:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309010123.h811NBZr013233@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a large agave that has developed some sort of black root in the center of the plant which will kill it. The plant has an order. It is to late to treat this plant however i would like to know what it is and how to prevent it in the future and how to keep my other agaves from becoming infected. I don't beleive it is from over watering. This plant has been in the ground for apx. 3 years. Type is a blue agave. thank you From Surfrgirl338@aol.com Mon Sep 1 01:21:17 2003 From: Surfrgirl338@aol.com (Surfrgirl338@aol.com) Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 21:21:17 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: --part1_a.34f77536.2c83f90d_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit We have seven humongous pecan trees around our house, They are probably 60+ years old. Probably have never had anything done to them in the way of care/pruning. This is the producing year and they are loaded! We have been here almost three years and this will be our second harvest. However we cannot let these trees remain as they are. We are both retired and getting older and to think of having to go out every day and pick up branches is a little more than we want to do. Huge (and I mean huge!) limbs break and fall off, in the last week we have lost two very large limbs and I dread to think what would happen should someone be standing/walking under these trees when another limb decides to let go. This is a regular occurence. We have consulted a man who has been in the business for ten years and despite all I have read we are seriously thinking of having them topped when the crop is gathered. I tried to contact a lumber company to remove them and perhaps replace them with nice shade trees but no one seems interested. I figured they would do that for the wood. (Pecan) is expensive!. So unless you can give me another alternative to reduce the size of these babies. they are ging to be topped. Sincerely Barbara Puszert Gaffney SC --part1_a.34f77536.2c83f90d_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable We have seven humongous pecan trees around our house,=20= They are probably 60+ years old. Probably have never had anything done to th= em in the way of care/pruning.
This is the producing year and they are loaded!
We have been here almost three years and this will be our second harvest.&nb= sp; However we cannot let these trees remain as they are. We are both retire= d and getting older and to think of having to go out every day and pick up b= ranches is a little more than we want to do.
Huge (and I mean huge!) limbs break and fall off, in the last week we have l= ost two very large limbs and I dread to think what would happen should someo= ne be standing/walking under these trees when another limb decides to let go= . This is a regular occurence.
We have consulted a man who has been in the business for ten years and despi= te all I have read we are seriously thinking of having them topped when the=20= crop is gathered. I tried to contact a lumber company to remove them and per= haps replace them with nice shade trees but no one seems interested. I figur= ed they would do that for the wood. (Pecan) is expensive!.
So unless you can give me another alternative to reduce the size of these ba= bies. they are ging to be topped.
Sincerely
Barbara Puszert
Gaffney SC --part1_a.34f77536.2c83f90d_boundary-- From j_harrell@NetZero.net Mon Sep 1 02:13:36 2003 From: j_harrell@NetZero.net (Jackie and Bill Harrell) Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 19:13:36 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Burmuda grass length Message-ID: <3F52AB50.5200DBE0@NetZero.net> Dear Master Gardener, I bought a Neuton battery powered mower (from Vermont) and love many things about it, but it only cuts to 1 1/2". We want to mulch, too, and it just blows the leaves around, and when it does cut, it doesn't mulch very finely. What do you now recommend for the length of our grass here? I used to hear that we can start at 3/4" in the spring and gradually raise the mower to maybe 1 1/2" by the end of the season, like now. However, that seems too high to make a neat lawn, even by this time of the year. And is 3/4" o.k. for the start? I'll have to return the Neuton. The tech man there just gasped over the phone when I told him how short we cut it out here. A Michigan friend of mine cuts hers at 2-2 1/2". Why the differences? Am I wrong in my thinking? Also, what mulching mower is any good that isn't gas powered? Our Ryobi costs so much money with new betteries and "checks" on the systems every 12-18 months that we'd like something else and still be environmentally smart. I'd appreciate any suggestions. Thanks! Jackie From j_harrell@NetZero.net Mon Sep 1 02:21:49 2003 From: j_harrell@NetZero.net (Jackie and Bill Harrell) Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 19:21:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Passion vine Message-ID: <3F52AD3D.B8E36B67@NetZero.net> Dear Master Gardener, Another question - I have a Passion Vine started from a slip from Indiana, and I rue the day! It's still a lovely vine and flower, BUT in about 2 years it has taken over my 20 x 30 foot garden, 3 feet high (I haven't been able to work it this year), and it's coming up all over my yard. The problem is that it seems to grow deep and migrate underground - I had plans to contain it with perhaps 10" barriers, but my daughter had hers in a 3 foot high rock wall and it still came out in the grass! Maybe it's impossible to contain, except in a POT? Any of you have experience with this vine? I'm anxious to hear! And to think that I can't plant the purple Morning Glory but this vine is totally legal! The Gulf Fritillery butterflies are nice - I rival the Botanical Garden in certain months, BUT... Jackie From bvickerman1@cox.net Mon Sep 1 04:43:12 2003 From: bvickerman1@cox.net (Barb & Bruce Vickerman) Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 21:43:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Australian willow trees Message-ID: <000c01c37043$8cd20640$6401a8c0@home> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C37008.E049FB60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have 4 Australian willows that are almost 10 years old and 20-30' = tall. They're on drip and did well until a couple of years ago. The = nursery man told me the problem is borers--branches just turn brown and = die. You can see small scars on the branches. It seems strange because = the rest of the branch will look green and healthy. I tried spraying = borer spray but the trees are too tall to do a decent job. Are we = destined to lose these trees? We've already lost 2--branch by branch. =20 Thanks. =20 ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C37008.E049FB60 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I have 4 Australian = willows that=20 are almost 10 years old and 20-30' tall. They're on drip and did = well=20 until a couple of years ago. The nursery man told me the problem = is=20 borers--branches just turn brown and die. You can see small scars = on the=20 branches. It seems strange because the rest of the branch = will look=20 green and healthy. I tried spraying borer spray but the trees are = too tall=20 to do a decent job. Are we destined to lose these trees? = We've=20 already lost 2--branch by branch.

Thanks.

------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C37008.E049FB60-- From Marshalovesros@aol.com Mon Sep 1 16:22:05 2003 From: Marshalovesros@aol.com (Marshalovesros@aol.com) Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 12:22:05 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Recomended planting season for Queen Palms in Phoenix Message-ID: <127.302d6368.2c84cc2d@aol.com> --part1_127.302d6368.2c84cc2d_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have a dead queen palm tree, i have been seriously trying to dig it out since looks like it has no hope, please help me to first how would i dig it out, if indeed has no hope, and if it does, how can i revive it? and then if is not revivable, what month of the year should I plant a new one right on the same place of the old one. you prompt reply will be greatly appreciated. Marsha --part1_127.302d6368.2c84cc2d_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have a dead queen palm tree, i have been seriously t= rying to dig it out since looks like it has no hope, please help me to= first how would i dig it out, if indeed has no hope, and if it does, how ca= n i revive it? and then if is not revivable, what month of the year should I= plant a new one right on the same place of the old one.
you prompt reply will be greatly appreciated.

&nbs= p; Marsha --part1_127.302d6368.2c84cc2d_boundary-- From isaiah58@cgmailbox.com Mon Sep 1 16:23:56 2003 From: isaiah58@cgmailbox.com (White O' Mornin') Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 09:23:56 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Veggie's garden? References: <3F52AB50.5200DBE0@NetZero.net> Message-ID: <001801c370a5$76a75b60$db7d953f@robertde> Greetings, We have a large area (20 x 40) that we planted with sweet corn in the spring. Now that the corn is gone and the weather is cooling, some, we would like to plant carrots and radishes. Do you think this space has enough nutrients to support another crop? I understand that corn is very hard on the soil and am thinking maybe we should give the soil a rest for the winter and plant in another spot? What do you think? What would you plant there, if anything? What would you recommend to enhance the soil in that area so that we can plant there again now, and then hopefully more corn in the spring? Thanks, Rachel Zone - 13 Arizona low desert From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Mon Sep 1 19:04:25 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 12:04:25 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Australian willow trees dying Message-ID: <006001c370bb$dd5471c0$7c2c0a3f@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_005D_01C37081.2FD842E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Barb and Bruce, We have just gone through five years of severe drought and the hottest = July on record. What may have been adequate water a few years ago has = not been adequate this year. Unless you are watering to a three foot = depth the trees are not getting enough water. Without adequate water = trees and plants become stressed and stressed trees attract all kinds of = insects and disease. If borers are causing the damage you should see holes where the insects = enter the tree. The lindane treatment will usually help to get rid of = the borers. Because of the size of the trees you may have to call in a Certified = Arborist to do the spraying. He will also be able to tell you if borers = are the problem. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: Barb & Bruce Vickerman To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, September 01, 2003 6:43 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Australian willow trees I have 4 Australian willows that are almost 10 years old and = 20-30' tall. They're on drip and did well until a couple of years ago. = The nursery man told me the problem is borers--branches just turn brown = and die. You can see small scars on the branches. It seems strange = because the rest of the branch will look green and healthy. I tried = spraying borer spray but the trees are too tall to do a decent job. Are = we destined to lose these trees? We've already lost 2--branch by = branch. =20 Thanks. =20 =20 ------=_NextPart_000_005D_01C37081.2FD842E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Barb and Bruce,

We have just gone through five years of severe = drought and the=20 hottest July on record. What may have been adequate water a few years = ago has=20 not been adequate this year. Unless you are watering to a three foot = depth the=20 trees are not getting enough water. Without adequate water trees and = plants=20 become stressed and stressed trees attract all kinds of insects and=20 disease.

If borers are causing the damage you should see = holes where=20 the insects enter the tree. The lindane treatment will usually help to=20 get rid of the borers.

Because of the size of the trees you may have to = call in a=20 Certified Arborist to do the spraying. He will also be able to tell you = if=20 borers are the problem.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick

Master Gardener

-----Original = Message-----
From:=20 Barb & Bruce Vickerman <bvickerman1@cox.net>
To: = Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu = <Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Date:=20 Monday, September 01, 2003 6:43 AM
Subject: = [Arid_gardener]=20 Australian willow trees

   I have 4 Australian = willows =20 that are almost 10 years old and 20-30' tall. They're on drip = and did=20 well until a couple of years ago. The nursery man told me the = problem is=20 borers--branches just turn brown and die. You can see small = scars on the=20 branches. It seems strange because the rest of the branch = will look=20 green and healthy. I tried spraying borer spray but the trees = are too=20 tall to do a decent job. Are we destined to lose these = trees? =20 We've already lost 2--branch by branch.

    = Thanks.

------=_NextPart_000_005D_01C37081.2FD842E0-- From popsy97@yahoo.com Mon Sep 1 19:42:59 2003 From: popsy97@yahoo.com (Judy Braden) Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 12:42:59 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Passion vine In-Reply-To: <3F52AD3D.B8E36B67@NetZero.net> Message-ID: <20030901194259.82913.qmail@web11003.mail.yahoo.com> I have the variety 'Incense' and it suckers a lot, too. And deeply, as you say. I just take a little hand spade and dig down as far as I can and get as much as possible. Sometimes they don't come up again and if they do, I do the same thing. You might try painting some Roundup on the leaves of the ones you don't want. --- Jackie and Bill Harrell wrote: > Dear Master Gardener, > > Another question - I have a Passion Vine started > from a slip from > Indiana, and I rue the day! It's still a lovely > vine and flower, BUT in > about 2 years it has taken over my 20 x 30 foot > garden, 3 feet high (I > haven't been able to work it this year), and it's > coming up all over my > yard. > > The problem is that it seems to grow deep and > migrate underground - I > had plans to contain it with perhaps 10" barriers, > but my daughter had > hers in a 3 foot high rock wall and it still came > out in the grass! > Maybe it's impossible to contain, except in a POT? > > Any of you have experience with this vine? I'm > anxious to hear! > > And to think that I can't plant the purple Morning > Glory but this vine > is totally legal! The Gulf Fritillery butterflies > are nice - I rival > the Botanical Garden in certain months, BUT... > > Jackie > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Mon Sep 1 18:50:08 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 11:50:08 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Burmuda grass length Message-ID: <004b01c370b9$de724fc0$7c2c0a3f@ibmbna6040> Jackie, I suspect that your electric mower is not made to mulch and does not have enough power to do so. The mowing height of your bermuda grass will depend on the type of bermuda that you have. If you have common bermuda or Midiron hybrid bermuda it can be cut anywhere from one inch to 2 1/2 inches high. If the grass is Tifgreen, Tifway or Santa Ana it can be cut shorter. The shorter you cut the grass the more often you will have to cut it. You should never cut off more than 1/3 of the total height at one time. Personally I cut the grass to 2 1/2 inches high because the grass doesn't have to be cut as often and the greater height shades the ground better and helps to keep the weeds down. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: Jackie and Bill Harrell To: arid gardener Date: Monday, September 01, 2003 6:42 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Burmuda grass length >Dear Master Gardener, > > I bought a Neuton battery powered mower (from Vermont) and love many >things about it, but it only cuts to 1 1/2". We want to mulch, too, and >it just blows the leaves around, and when it does cut, it doesn't mulch >very finely. > > What do you now recommend for the length of our grass here? I used to >hear that we can start at 3/4" in the spring and gradually raise the >mower to maybe 1 1/2" by the end of the season, like now. However, that >seems too high to make a neat lawn, even by this time of the year. > > And is 3/4" o.k. for the start? > > I'll have to return the Neuton. The tech man there just gasped over >the phone when I told him how short we cut it out here. A Michigan >friend of mine cuts hers at 2-2 1/2". Why the differences? Am I wrong >in my thinking? > > Also, what mulching mower is any good that isn't gas powered? Our >Ryobi costs so much money with new betteries and "checks" on the systems >every 12-18 months that we'd like something else and still be >environmentally smart. I'd appreciate any suggestions. > > Thanks! Jackie > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Mon Sep 1 18:23:51 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 11:23:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pecan Trees oversized Message-ID: <003801c370b6$325fbe00$7c2c0a3f@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0035_01C3707B.84F45800 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Barbara, It is a no-no to top any kind of tree. Yes I know that the utility = companies do it but they have no choice. Trees that are planted under = utility lines, when they interfere with the lines must be cut back. My recommendation is to have a Certified Arborist inspect your trees and = recommend a course of action. A certified Arborist will be well = qualified to make recommendations and to do the work. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener=20 -----Original Message----- From: Surfrgirl338@aol.com To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Sunday, August 31, 2003 7:10 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) We have seven humongous pecan trees around our house, They are = probably 60+ years old. Probably have never had anything done to them in = the way of care/pruning. This is the producing year and they are loaded! =20 We have been here almost three years and this will be our second = harvest. However we cannot let these trees remain as they are. We are = both retired and getting older and to think of having to go out every = day and pick up branches is a little more than we want to do.=20 Huge (and I mean huge!) limbs break and fall off, in the last week we = have lost two very large limbs and I dread to think what would happen = should someone be standing/walking under these trees when another limb = decides to let go. This is a regular occurence. We have consulted a man who has been in the business for ten years and = despite all I have read we are seriously thinking of having them topped = when the crop is gathered. I tried to contact a lumber company to remove = them and perhaps replace them with nice shade trees but no one seems = interested. I figured they would do that for the wood. (Pecan) is = expensive!. So unless you can give me another alternative to reduce the size of = these babies. they are ging to be topped. Sincerely Barbara Puszert Gaffney SC=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0035_01C3707B.84F45800 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Barbara,

It is a no-no to top any kind of tree. Yes I know = that the=20 utility companies do it but they have no choice. Trees that are planted = under=20 utility lines, when they interfere with the lines must be cut=20 back.

My recommendation is to have a Certified Arborist = inspect your=20 trees and recommend a course of action. A certified Arborist will = be well=20 qualified to make recommendations and to do the work.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick

Master Gardener

-----Original=20 Message-----
From: Surfrgirl338@aol.com <Surfrgirl338@aol.com>
To: = Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu = <Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Date:=20 Sunday, August 31, 2003 7:10 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = (no=20 subject)

We have=20 seven humongous pecan trees around our house, They are probably 60+ = years old.=20 Probably have never had anything done to them in the way of=20 care/pruning.
This is the producing year and they are loaded! =
We=20 have been here almost three years and this will be our second = harvest. =20 However we cannot let these trees remain as they are. We are both = retired and=20 getting older and to think of having to go out every day and pick up = branches=20 is a little more than we want to do.
Huge (and I mean huge!) limbs = break=20 and fall off, in the last week we have lost two very large limbs and I = dread=20 to think what would happen should someone be standing/walking under = these=20 trees when another limb decides to let go. This is a regular = occurence.
We=20 have consulted a man who has been in the business for ten years and = despite=20 all I have read we are seriously thinking of having them topped when = the crop=20 is gathered. I tried to contact a lumber company to remove them and = perhaps=20 replace them with nice shade trees but no one seems interested. I = figured they=20 would do that for the wood. (Pecan) is expensive!.
So unless you = can give=20 me another alternative to reduce the size of these babies. they are = ging to be=20 topped.
Sincerely
Barbara Puszert
Gaffney SC=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0035_01C3707B.84F45800-- From Fraser475@aol.com Mon Sep 1 19:39:03 2003 From: Fraser475@aol.com (Fraser475@aol.com) Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 15:39:03 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gibberalic Acid use - grapes and camelias Message-ID: --part1_f8.2ff0c139.2c84fa57_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have, in the past, used gibberalic acid on camelia buds to have larger, earlier specimens, but have used the small supply I had on hand. Can you tell me where I may purchase another supply to be used, if not this year then next year. Also, I had not heard of using gibberalic acid on grapes, but am very interested in this, too. Please respond to my email site: Fraser475@aol.com. Thank you very much. Nell --part1_f8.2ff0c139.2c84fa57_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have, in the past, used gibberalic acid on camelia bud= s to have larger, earlier specimens, but have used the small supply I had on= hand. Can you tell me where I may purchase another supply to be used,= if not this year then next year.

Also, I had not heard of using gibberalic acid on grapes, but am very intere= sted in this, too.

Please respond to my email site: Fraser475@aol.com.

Thank you very much.

Nell --part1_f8.2ff0c139.2c84fa57_boundary-- From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Mon Sep 1 18:12:49 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 11:12:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Agave Weevil Message-ID: <002601c370b4$a8a1b520$7c2c0a3f@ibmbna6040> The Agave Weevil, a black insect about an inch long with a long snout, in early summer chews the surface of the leaves of the agave and introduces a bacterial rot which is what you are seeing on your agave. Meanwhile their lavae which look like white grubs have bored into the ground and are feasting on the roots of the agave. Once you have seen the rot it is too late to do anything about the insect except to remove and destroy the plant. Control can be effected by sprinkling a granular insecticide such as Diazanon on the ground around the plant in May, June and July. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: olinger@cox.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Sunday, August 31, 2003 7:09 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I have a large agave that has developed some sort of black root in the center of the plant which will kill it. The plant has an order. It is to late to treat this plant however i would like to know what it is and how to prevent it in the future and how to keep my other agaves from becoming infected. >I don't beleive it is from over watering. This plant has been in the ground for apx. 3 years. Type is a blue agave. thank you > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From popsy97@yahoo.com Tue Sep 2 02:06:43 2003 From: popsy97@yahoo.com (Judy Braden) Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 19:06:43 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] bamboo and desert willow In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20030902020643.57203.qmail@web11005.mail.yahoo.com> Golden bamboo can really be a problem. It spreads by runners, and they may pop up far from where you expect them. If you don't get all the runner, it keeps trying to grow. There are other bamboos you could try, if you like the look. Make sure that it is a 'clumper' not a 'runner'. Golden Goddess is one you might like. It is Bambusa multiplex. Golden is Phyllostachys. --- Thomas Homans wrote: > 2 quick questions: > > 1) I'm looking for something to plant along the > house, facing north, which > sees shade approx. > 80% of the day, even in summer. Saw some golden > bamboo at a nursery in > Prescott today (we > live in Apache Jct) and am wondering if this would > be a suitable solution, > since it appears to be a > moderately fast grower, but am not sure if it would > need more sunlight to > survive. If this isn't > feasible, what other options would I have for > something that grows to > approx. 8-10 feet in > height and is low sun/low water? > > 2) We're pulling a Tipu planted last October that > doesn't seem interested > in living in the west > side of our yard, and rather than waiting to see if > it will ever put out > leaves again, I'm looking to > replace it with a low water solution, a native tree > that grows to approx. > 20' by 20'. I've looked > at the Desert Willow, but you don't get much tree > for your money (24'' boxes > I've seen are > barely 2 feet tall). Any suggestions? > > If anyone's interested, pictures of our house, > inside and out, are available > at www.geocities.com/adamyouch2001. > > thanks in advance, > tom > > _________________________________________________________________ > Help protect your PC: Get a free online virus scan > at McAfee.com. > http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com From Laminacknancy@aol.com Tue Sep 2 05:11:49 2003 From: Laminacknancy@aol.com (by way of Lucy Bradley ) Date: Mon, 01 Sep 2003 22:11:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20030901221126.01fe5070@ag.arizona.edu> The leaves on my crepe myrtle are burned. I was told to apply gypsum to reduce the salt in the soil. I have lantana growing in the same bed. If the gypsum were applied, will it affect the lantana? Thank you! Laminacknancy@aol.com From gardenguy@gardenerscorner.com Tue Sep 2 17:58:47 2003 From: gardenguy@gardenerscorner.com (Garden Guy) Date: Tue, 02 Sep 2003 13:58:47 -0400 Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: No, gypsum will not hurt the lantana. -- Chat with you later, Alan -- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ----- Alan Zelhart gizmoaz@cox.net Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- Today is National Existential Ennui Awareness Day > The leaves on my crepe myrtle are burned. I was told to apply gypsum to > reduce the salt in the soil. I have lantana growing in the same bed. If > the gypsum were applied, will it affect the lantana? > > Thank you! > Laminacknancy@aol.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > -- From gwright@Ag.arizona.edu Tue Sep 2 17:02:30 2003 From: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu (Glenn C. Wright) Date: Tue, 02 Sep 2003 10:02:30 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: Holes in citrus Message-ID: <5.1.1.6.2.20030902100150.00bb04d8@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_5269875==.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed >X-WebTV-Signature: 1 > ETAtAhUAhUQZfEeqAaetp8kf80MwXJXh0UYCFGDbuLCR0FRDXrCb6VeroWCsFp+d >From: blrjwr@webtv.net (Joseph Ralston) >Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 22:12:36 -0700 (MST) >To: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: Holes in citrus > >My AZ sweet orange, and Tx Ruby Red grapefruit trees have fruit that >drops with a hole poked into them. Woodpeckers? Parasite? I started last >year and is continung with the current crop, which is abundent on both >trees. Thanks, Joseph W . Ralston, blrjwr@webtv.net Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D. Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist University of Arizona - Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center 2186 W. County 15th Street Somerton, AZ 85350 Phone: 928-726-0458 FAX: 928-726-1363 e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu --=====================_5269875==.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

X-WebTV-Signature: 1
ETAtAhUAhUQZfEeqAaetp8kf80MwXJXh0UYCFGDbuLCR0FRDXrCb6VeroWCsFp+d
From: blrjwr@webtv.net (Joseph Ralston)
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 22:12:36 -0700 (MST)
To: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: Holes in citrus

My AZ sweet orange, and Tx Ruby Red grapefruit trees have fruit that
drops with a hole poked into them. Woodpeckers? Parasite? I started last
year and is continung with the current crop, which is abundent on both
trees. Thanks, Joseph W . Ralston, blrjwr@webtv.net

Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D.
Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist
University of Arizona - Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center
2186 W. County 15th Street
Somerton, AZ 85350
Phone: 928-726-0458
FAX: 928-726-1363
e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu --=====================_5269875==.ALT-- From fnader@comcast.net Tue Sep 2 18:23:34 2003 From: fnader@comcast.net (Faran Nader) Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 11:23:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvilliea Message-ID: <004601c3717f$546004f0$567ae80c@central.com> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0043_01C37144.A5680B80 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable My Bougainvilliea looks healthy but the leaves are getting bigger and = bigger and blooms are getting fewer and fewer. The first year was doing = very good. Could you tell me what could be the reason. Thanks for your time Faran Nader MIS Director Oregon Human Development Corp. (503) 452-6673 OR (925) 426-5636 CA fnader@ohdc.org ------=_NextPart_000_0043_01C37144.A5680B80 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

My Bougainvilliea looks healthy but the = leaves are=20 getting bigger and bigger and blooms are getting fewer and fewer. The = first year=20 was doing very good. Could you tell me what could be the = reason.

Thanks for your time

Faran Nader
MIS Director
Oregon = Human=20 Development Corp.
(503) 452-6673 OR
(925) 426-5636 = CA
fnader@ohdc.org

------=_NextPart_000_0043_01C37144.A5680B80-- From kroon@mindspring.com Tue Sep 2 19:12:04 2003 From: kroon@mindspring.com (kroon@mindspring.com) Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 12:12:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309021912.h82JC4Zr011171@Ag.arizona.edu> Hello - Please forward this request for information to the appropriate office/agency. Thank you. This is a request for information about a fungus or what ever it is tha is growing in the yard of our Phoenix home. The growth appeared first in the bermuda grass, now I have found it in dirt between bricks in the front entryway ( nothing there is watered - i.e. no plants ) and this morning found a large growth in the dirt underneath a citrus tree in the yard. Color - about like that of bread dough. Rubbery like consistency. Starts small and if left alone can grow up to the size of the growth found this morning under the citrus - about 12 -14 inches across -- about 6 inches tall. Does not appear to have very deep roots. I have taken samples to commercial nurserys. They state they have never seen anything like it before, and suggested the use of various commercial fungicides. The jury is still out on whether these fungicides work or not. Can you help identify this and suggest a treatment. Thank you C.R.Kroon 3845 E. Sunnyside Drive Phoenix, AZ 85028 602-390-0861 From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Tue Sep 2 21:40:07 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 14:40:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvilliea Message-ID: <003401c3719a$c8cbaf40$f52c0a3f@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0031_01C37160.1AE32A00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Faran, I suspect that you may be over watering or over fertilizing your = bougainvillea or both. Once bougainvillea is established ( one year )it = requires very little water or fertilizer. Also bougainvillea will have = the best bloom when planted where it has full sun. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: Faran Nader To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Tuesday, September 02, 2003 1:54 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvilliea My Bougainvilliea looks healthy but the leaves are getting bigger and = bigger and blooms are getting fewer and fewer. The first year was doing = very good. Could you tell me what could be the reason. Thanks for your time Faran Nader MIS Director Oregon Human Development Corp. (503) 452-6673 OR (925) 426-5636 CA fnader@ohdc.org ------=_NextPart_000_0031_01C37160.1AE32A00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Faran,

I suspect that you may be over watering or over = fertilizing=20 your bougainvillea or both. Once bougainvillea is established ( one year = )it=20 requires very little water or fertilizer. Also bougainvillea will have = the best=20 bloom when planted where it has full sun.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick

Master Gardener

-----Original = Message-----
From:=20 Faran Nader <fnader@comcast.net>
To: = Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu = <Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Date:=20 Tuesday, September 02, 2003 1:54 PM
Subject: = [Arid_gardener]=20 Bougainvilliea

My Bougainvilliea looks healthy but = the leaves=20 are getting bigger and bigger and blooms are getting fewer and fewer. = The=20 first year was doing very good. Could you tell me what could be the=20 reason.

Thanks for your time

Faran Nader
MIS Director
Oregon = Human=20 Development Corp.
(503) 452-6673 OR
(925) 426-5636 = CA
fnader@ohdc.org
------=_NextPart_000_0031_01C37160.1AE32A00-- From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Tue Sep 2 21:51:32 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 14:51:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Recomended planting season for Queen Palms in Phoenix Message-ID: <004601c3719c$60b64260$f52c0a3f@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0043_01C37161.B2D55E40 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Marsha If all the fronds on your queen palm have turned brown with no green = showing the palm is dead and should be removed. If the palm is very = large it will be quite difficult to dig it out by hand. The preferred time for planting palms is during warm weather (April = through September). Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: Marshalovesros@aol.com To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, September 01, 2003 9:40 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Recomended planting season for Queen Palms in = Phoenix I have a dead queen palm tree, i have been seriously trying to dig it = out since looks like it has no hope, please help me to first how would = i dig it out, if indeed has no hope, and if it does, how can i revive = it? and then if is not revivable, what month of the year should I plant = a new one right on the same place of the old one.=20 you prompt reply will be greatly appreciated.=20 Marsha=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0043_01C37161.B2D55E40 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Marsha

If all the fronds on your queen palm have turned = brown with no=20 green showing the palm is dead and should be removed. If the palm is = very large=20 it will be quite difficult to dig it out by hand.

The preferred time for planting palms is during warm = weather=20 (April through September).

Good luck.

Rod McKusick

Master Gardener

-----Original = Message-----
From:=20 Marshalovesros@aol.com <Marshalovesros@aol.com>
To:=20 Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu = <Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Date:=20 Monday, September 01, 2003 9:40 AM
Subject: = [Arid_gardener]=20 Recomended planting season for Queen Palms in = Phoenix

I have=20 a dead queen palm tree, i have been seriously trying to dig it out = since looks=20 like it has no hope, please help me to first how would i dig it = out, if=20 indeed has no hope, and if it does, how can i revive it? and then if = is not=20 revivable, what month of the year should I plant a new one right on = the same=20 place of the old one.
you prompt reply will be greatly = appreciated.=20 =

= ; =20 Marsha

------=_NextPart_000_0043_01C37161.B2D55E40-- From THEOCEANBUMS@aol.com Wed Sep 3 06:01:32 2003 From: THEOCEANBUMS@aol.com (THEOCEANBUMS@aol.com) Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 02:01:32 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] broken cacti Message-ID: <78.4686ab85.2c86ddbc@aol.com> --part1_78.4686ab85.2c86ddbc_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit i have a small indoor cactus, one pillar about eight in long, a wind storm knocked the stand over and broke it off at the base, i cant find any info on how to save Fred, can i replant without roots? or how should i try and save him?? thank you, please e-mail with a sight or any thing that will help, april theoceanbums@aol.com --part1_78.4686ab85.2c86ddbc_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable i have a small indoor cactus, one pillar about eight i= n long, a wind storm knocked the stand over and broke it off at the base, i=20= cant find any info on how to save Fred, can i replant without roots? or how=20= should i try and save him??
thank you, please e-mail with a sight or any thing that will help,
april
theoceanbums@aol.com --part1_78.4686ab85.2c86ddbc_boundary-- From Msmink8259@aol.com Wed Sep 3 05:47:18 2003 From: Msmink8259@aol.com (Msmink8259@aol.com) Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 01:47:18 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bottle Trees (Brachychiton Populneus) Message-ID: <1ec.f11d787.2c86da66@aol.com> --part1_1ec.f11d787.2c86da66_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi, I have three bottle trees in my back yard. I live in nw Tucson. My problem seems to be that leaves are turning brown and smaller branches are just falling off. The trees are on a drip with 1 gph emiters that run for about two hours a couple days a week. Can you please tell me what the problem is? Are they getting too much water or not enough? The middle tree is the youngest and it is not growing as fast as the other two had when they were first planted. Also, the neighbor behind me had planted a couple of palo verde trees at his fence line that is only a couple feet from my trees. Is it possible that his trees are stealing the water for my trees? It seems that these problems started after his trees were planted. Thank you for your help. Lisa Zeno --part1_1ec.f11d787.2c86da66_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi,

I have three bottle trees in my back yard. I live in nw Tucson. =20= My problem seems to be that leaves are turning brown and smaller branches ar= e just falling off. The trees are on a drip with 1 gph emiters that ru= n for about two hours a couple days a week. Can you please tell me wha= t the problem is? Are they getting too much water or not enough? = The middle tree is the youngest and it is not growing as fast as the other=20= two had when they were first planted. Also, the neighbor behind me had= planted a couple of palo verde trees at his fence line that is only a coupl= e feet from my trees. Is it possible that his trees are stealing the w= ater for my trees? It seems that these problems started after his tree= s were planted.

Thank you for your help.

Lisa Zeno --part1_1ec.f11d787.2c86da66_boundary-- From mmb@storyteller.net Wed Sep 3 04:35:42 2003 From: mmb@storyteller.net (mmb@storyteller.net) Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 21:35:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Edging bermuda lawn with flashing? Message-ID: <3700.68.106.224.204.1062563742.squirrel@www.storyteller.net> I am thinking of burying a barrier of aluninum flashing under a brick border to help keep my vigorous Bermuda lawn out of the flower beds, which are level with the lawn. Does anyone have any thoughts on this? Perhaps something other than the flashing? How many inches deep should the barrier be? Thanks so much for any insights! Michelle Avondale, Zone 13 From boahiss@earthlink.net Wed Sep 3 00:47:24 2003 From: boahiss@earthlink.net (Marcia Lincoln) Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 17:47:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Moth problems References: <200308310008.h7V08cZr003887@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <006001c371b4$f173dca0$6401a8c0@athlon2100> Are your moths tan to dark brown, about 1" long? We always have a problem here in Tucson with these sneaking into the house in summer. Right now their numbers have increased. They are quite pesky and as you say, insist on flying inside when the door is open. What we do is keep a flyswatter outside the door and swat all the ones hanging around before opening the door. If you miss, they tend to settle again quickly nearby, so you get another shot. They are fragile so it doesn't take much of a whack. This takes 30 seconds or a minute but has greatly reduced the number of pesky moths inside the house without the use of pesticide or UV bug killers, which are indiscriminant in what they zap. Marcia Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 22:12:54 -0700 (MST) To: From: rsigler@w3az.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live in the Wickenburg area. July & Aug bring a very large number of moths to our entry way with many resting on & around the door. They also collect around other doors as well (shade, cooler temp,less wind, or?). When the door is opened several fly inside even though we try to brush them away. Some of our neighbors use UV bug killers, I'm hoping for some other solution. Thanks From lanna64@cox.net Wed Sep 3 01:44:01 2003 From: lanna64@cox.net (lanna64@cox.net) Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 18:44:01 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309030144.h831i1Zr025167@Ag.arizona.edu> I have three hibiscus which were planted about 18 months ago. They were thriving until about three weeks ago. Suddenly, they started to wilt. In three more days they started to turn brown and lost their leaves. What is the cause? Thank you. From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Wed Sep 3 16:49:40 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 09:49:40 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bottle Trees Dying Message-ID: <003e01c3723b$60687040$1831db43@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_003B_01C37200.B1C74960 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Lisa, The problem with your Bottle Trees is that they are receiving inadequate = water. I don't know what kind of soil you have, I suspect it is clay. If = so and you are watering for two hours with a drip system the water is = probably not penetrating more than one foot deep. The entire root = system of your Bottle Trees should be getting water to a depth of three = feet deep, and the root system extends out to the drip line of the tree = and beyond.=20 You should have 6 to 10 drippers depending on the size of the tree and = be running the drippers 6 to 8 hours at a time once every 10 days to two = weeks during summer. A great resourse on watering is a free booklet titled LANDSCAPE WATERING = BY THE NUMBERS available from most nurseries and the Cooperative = Extension. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener @aol.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Wednesday, September 03, 2003 6:41 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bottle Trees (Brachychiton Populneus) Hi, I have three bottle trees in my back yard. I live in nw Tucson. My = problem seems to be that leaves are turning brown and smaller branches = are just falling off. The trees are on a drip with 1 gph emiters that = run for about two hours a couple days a week. Can you please tell me = what the problem is? Are they getting too much water or not enough? = The middle tree is the youngest and it is not growing as fast as the = other two had when they were first planted. Also, the neighbor behind = me had planted a couple of palo verde trees at his fence line that is = only a couple feet from my trees. Is it possible that his trees are = stealing the water for my trees? It seems that these problems started = after his trees were planted. Thank you for your help. Lisa Zeno=20 ------=_NextPart_000_003B_01C37200.B1C74960 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Lisa,

The problem with your Bottle Trees is that they are = receiving=20 inadequate water. I don't know what kind of soil you have, I suspect it = is clay.=20 If so and you are watering for two hours with a drip system the = water is=20 probably not penetrating more than one foot deep. The entire root = system=20 of your Bottle Trees should be getting water to a depth of three feet = deep, and=20 the root system extends out to the drip line of the tree and=20 beyond.

You should have 6 to 10 drippers depending on = the size=20 of the tree and be running the drippers 6 to 8 hours at a time = once every=20 10 days to two weeks

during summer.

A great resourse on watering is a free = booklet=20 titled LANDSCAPE WATERING BY THE NUMBERS available from most nurseries = and the=20 Cooperative Extension.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick

Master Gardener

@aol.com <Msmink8259@aol.com>
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu = <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Date:=20 Wednesday, September 03, 2003 6:41 AM
Subject: = [Arid_gardener]=20 Bottle Trees (Brachychiton Populneus)

Hi,

I have three bottle trees in my back = yard. I=20 live in nw Tucson. My problem seems to be that leaves are = turning brown=20 and smaller branches are just falling off. The trees are on a = drip with=20 1 gph emiters that run for about two hours a couple days a week. = Can you=20 please tell me what the problem is? Are they getting too much = water or=20 not enough? The middle tree is the youngest and it is not = growing as=20 fast as the other two had when they were first planted. Also, = the=20 neighbor behind me had planted a couple of palo verde trees at his = fence line=20 that is only a couple feet from my trees. Is it possible that = his trees=20 are stealing the water for my trees? It seems that these = problems=20 started after his trees were planted.

Thank you for your=20 help.

Lisa Zeno ------=_NextPart_000_003B_01C37200.B1C74960-- From BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu Wed Sep 3 18:03:28 2003 From: BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Wed, 03 Sep 2003 11:03:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] EPA Cancelled Registration for Diazinon Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20030903110209.04e73c20@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_9577471==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed No. 170 Page A-8 Wednesday, September 3, 2003 ISSN 1521-9402 News Pesticides Cancellation of Registration Requirements For Diazinon Sets Stage for Final Phaseout The Environmental Protection Agency has canceled its registration of the organophosphate diazinon, setting the stage for the final phaseout of one of the most widely used home and garden insecticides. The cancellation order, slated for publication Sept. 3, comes nearly three years after a December 2000 EPA risk assessment found the insecticide posed risks "of concern" for residential usage, including health risks to children in post-application settings. The manufacturer of the chemical for residential uses, Syngenta Crop Protection, of Greensboro, N.C., then agreed to begin phasing out the use of the chemical (139 DEN A-8, 7/20/01). The chemical was required to be registered with the agency under the Federal Insecticide, Fungicide, and Rodenticide Act. In May, the company formally asked EPA to cancel all of its diazinon product registrations (DEN A-1, 5/30/03 ). The EPA cancellation order is effective immediately, according to the notice. The insecticide is sold as Spectracide, D.Z.N., Knox-Out, Diazol, and under other trade names. Ken Gordon, a spokesman for Syngenta Crop Protection in Greensboro, N.C., said the company ceased manufacturing diazinon as of June 30. Approximately 80 percent of the product has been sold as granular insecticide, though the cancellation order affects all diazinon products manufactured by the company for such residential uses. Under its agreement with EPA, the existing stocks of the product may continue to be moved through its distribution system until Dec. 31, 2004. "At the end at the end of 2004, the diazinon business, as far as Syngenta is concerned, will be completed," he said. Risk to Agricultural Workers On a somewhat separate track, EPA in September 2002 issued an Interim Reregistration Eligibility Decision that expressed concerns over the risks of exposure to agricultural workers who apply diazinon or work in areas where the chemical has been applied. Approximately 13 million pounds of diazinon are used each year on agricultural sites, where it has been used extensively on almonds and stone fruits, according to EPA. The IRED called for similar cancellations of registrations for the product's agricultural applications, but the decision has yet to be finalized. Both Syngenta and another manufacturer of the chemical, Makhteshim Agan, of New York, informed EPA in 2000 that they would no longer support continued registration of the chemical for some agricultural uses. More information is available by contacting Stephanie Plummer, Special Review and Reregistration Division (7508C), EPA Office of Pesticide Programs, 1200 Pennsylvania Ave. N.W., Washington, D.C. 20460-001; telephone (703) 305-0076; e-mail plummer.stephanie@epa.gov. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert. "The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona." ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ --=====================_9577471==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" No. 170                                                           Page A-8
   Wednesday, September 3, 2003

   ISSN 1521-9402

                                                       News

   Pesticides
   Cancellation of Registration Requirements
   For Diazinon Sets Stage for Final Phaseout

                    The Environmental Protection Agency has canceled its
                    registration of the organophosphate diazinon, setting
                    the stage for the final phaseout of one of the most
                    widely used home and garden insecticides.

                    The cancellation order, slated for publication Sept.
                    3, comes nearly three years after a December 2000 EPA
                    risk assessment found the insecticide posed risks "of
                    concern" for residential usage, including health risks
                    to children in post-application settings.

                    The manufacturer of the chemical for residential uses,
                    Syngenta Crop Protection, of Greensboro, N.C., then
                    agreed to begin phasing out the use of the chemical
                    (139 DEN A-8, 7/20/01).

                    The chemical was required to be registered with the
                    agency under the Federal Insecticide, Fungicide, and
                    Rodenticide Act. In May, the company formally asked
                    EPA to cancel all of its diazinon product
                    registrations (DEN A-1, 5/30/03 ).

                    The EPA cancellation order is effective immediately,
                    according to the notice.

                    The insecticide is sold as Spectracide, D.Z.N.,
                    Knox-Out, Diazol, and under other trade names.

                    Ken Gordon, a spokesman for Syngenta Crop Protection
                    in Greensboro, N.C., said the company ceased
                    manufacturing diazinon as of June 30. Approximately 80
                    percent of the product has been sold as granular
                    insecticide, though the cancellation order affects all
                    diazinon products manufactured by the company for such
                    residential uses.

                    Under its agreement with EPA, the existing stocks of
                    the product may continue to be moved through its
                    distribution system until Dec. 31, 2004.

                    "At the end at the end of 2004, the diazinon business,
                    as far as Syngenta is concerned, will be completed,"
                    he said.

                                 Risk to Agricultural Workers

                    On a somewhat separate track, EPA in September 2002
                    issued an Interim Reregistration Eligibility Decision
                    that expressed concerns over the risks of exposure to
                    agricultural workers who apply diazinon or work in
                    areas where the chemical has been applied.
                    Approximately 13 million pounds of diazinon are used
                    each year on agricultural sites, where it has been
                    used extensively on almonds and stone fruits,
                    according to EPA.

                    The IRED called for similar cancellations of
                    registrations for the product's agricultural
                    applications, but the decision has yet to be
                    finalized. Both Syngenta and another manufacturer of
                    the chemical, Makhteshim Agan, of New York, informed
                    EPA in 2000 that they would no longer support
                    continued registration of the chemical for some
                    agricultural uses.

                    More information is available by contacting Stephanie
                    Plummer, Special Review and Reregistration Division
                    (7508C), EPA Office of Pesticide Programs, 1200
                    Pennsylvania Ave. N.W., Washington, D.C. 20460-001;
                    telephone (703) 305-0076; e-mail
                    plummer.stephanie@epa.gov.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807

Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax: (602) 470-8092
email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/
http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens

Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program
To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert.

"The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona."
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

--=====================_9577471==_.ALT-- From fittedshirt@hotmail.com Wed Sep 3 20:53:21 2003 From: fittedshirt@hotmail.com (Thomas Homans) Date: Wed, 03 Sep 2003 14:53:21 -0600 Subject: [Arid_gardener] browning bird of paradise Message-ID: I have 2 Mexican bird of paradises, both are browning from the bottom up, is this an indication of too much or not enough water? I thought these were relatively low water usage plants, but maybe I've watered them too little. thanks tom _________________________________________________________________ Help protect your PC: Get a free online virus scan at McAfee.com. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 From chseter.L.gandy@boeing.com Wed Sep 3 22:29:07 2003 From: chseter.L.gandy@boeing.com (chseter.L.gandy@boeing.com) Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 15:29:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309032229.h83MT7Zr012213@Ag.arizona.edu> I purchased a piece of property in Strawberry, Arizona. There is an apple tree on the property and I would like to know how to care for it. Thanx, Chet From pperkins@whpacific.com Thu Sep 4 16:51:46 2003 From: pperkins@whpacific.com (pperkins@whpacific.com) Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2003 09:51:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309041651.h84GpkZr019198@Ag.arizona.edu> I have recently made jam from some wild plums that I picked in the high desert of Eastern Oregon. What is the best method to get a tree to grom from the plum pits? Thank you for you time. From kyoung@Ag.arizona.edu Thu Sep 4 17:11:41 2003 From: kyoung@Ag.arizona.edu (Kelly Young) Date: Thu, 04 Sep 2003 10:11:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Perennial Divide 2003 Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20030904094231.00ce7558@cals.arizona.edu> --=====================_8618512==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed PERENNIAL DIVIDE 2003 AT THE FALL GARDEN FESTIVAL Is a particular plant overrunning your garden but you cannot bear to dig them up and throw them out? Then please take part in our Great Perennial Divide. The Perennial Divide allows you to place your prolific plants in loving homes, all the while stocking your own yard with new and unusual specimens. The Perennial Divide works. 1. Bring in plants from your yard; they can be seedlings, pups, cuttings, or offsets (potted and labeled). 2. You are given credit towards plants that Master Gardeners and other members of the community brought in. It is a great way to diversify your yard fast on a tight budget. Start propagating and rooting cuttings now for trade at the Perennial Divide. (no Aloe barbadensis, please) Bring your potted, rooted plants that are clearly labelled with the following information: * scientific name * common name * landscape or culinary use * flower color and season * light requirements * irrigation requirements * special cultural requirements The Garden Festival will be held on Saturday, October 25, 2003, from 8:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. in the courtyard at Metro Tech High School, 1900 West Thomas Road in Phoenix. The event is free and everyone is welcome. For more information please e-mail Stacy Pratt: pratty@mindspring.com or call 602-470-1556 extension 1017. --=====================_8618512==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

PERENNIAL DIVIDE 2003
AT
THE FALL GARDEN FESTIVAL

Is a particular plant overrunning your garden but you cannot bear to dig them up and throw them out? Then please take part in our Great Perennial Divide. The Perennial Divide allows you to place your prolific plants in loving homes, all the while stocking your own yard with new and unusual specimens. The Perennial Divide works. 1. Bring in plants from your yard; they can be seedlings, pups, cuttings, or offsets (potted and labeled). 2. You are given credit towards plants that Master Gardeners and other members of the community brought in. It is a great way to diversify your yard fast on a tight budget.

Start propagating and rooting cuttings now for trade at the Perennial Divide.
(no Aloe barbadensis, please)

Bring your potted, rooted plants that are clearly labelled with the following information:

scientific name
common name
landscape or culinary use
flower color and season
light requirements
irrigation requirements
special cultural requirements

The Garden Festival will be held on Saturday, October 25, 2003, from 8:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. in the courtyard at Metro Tech High School, 1900 West Thomas Road in Phoenix. The event is free and everyone is welcome.

For more information please e-mail Stacy Pratt: pratty@mindspring.com or call 602-470-1556 extension 1017.

--=====================_8618512==_.ALT-- From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Thu Sep 4 21:26:48 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2003 14:26:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plums in the Low Desert Message-ID: <001901c3732b$41ac3a60$81a9db43@ibmbna6040> If you live in the low desert (Phoenix area) and want to plant a plum tree for fruit I would suggest against doing so. In order for plums to bear fruit colder weather than what we have here in the low desert is required. And I'm sure that the high desert of Oregon has colder weather than here during the winter. Even if you do not care about planting a plum tree for the fruit the plum trees do not do well here in the low desert. If I haven't discouraged you with the above you will find info on plant propagation in the Master Gardener Manual chapter on Plant Propagation found on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/ Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: pperkins@whpacific.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Thursday, September 04, 2003 10:27 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I have recently made jam from some wild plums that I picked in the high desert of Eastern Oregon. What is the best method to get a tree to grom from the plum pits? >Thank you for you time. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From www.facilities@nativeresources.com Thu Sep 4 21:31:09 2003 From: www.facilities@nativeresources.com (www.facilities@nativeresources.com) Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2003 14:31:09 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309042131.h84LV9Zr026288@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a nursery full of native mesquites and some are starting to decline I notice some holes in my trunks and a lot of sap. what kind of bug attacks native mesquites. From Tigerlillydun@aol.com Fri Sep 5 05:26:27 2003 From: Tigerlillydun@aol.com (Tigerlillydun@aol.com) Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2003 01:26:27 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] growing palo verdes from seed Message-ID: <73.347bd4b0.2c897883@aol.com> -------------------------------1062739587 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I understand that there is a way to grow palo verde trees from seed. I have pods from both the green variety as well as the blue. So far I've had no luck. Are there any hints you can share? Thanks, Liane -------------------------------1062739587 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

&nbs= p; I understand that there is a way to grow palo verde trees from seed= . I have pods from both the green variety as well as the blue. S= o far I've had no luck. Are there any hints you can share?=

Thanks,

Liane
-------------------------------1062739587-- From deloughery@cox.net Fri Sep 5 04:05:21 2003 From: deloughery@cox.net (deloughery@cox.net) Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2003 21:05:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309050405.h8545LZr027622@Ag.arizona.edu> I am new to Arizona, so please forgive my ignorance about living in the desert. My question concerns the use of mulch or wood chips around trees. I know that mulch helps protect the tree roots and slows water evaporation. But I have also read that scorpions live in decaying wood. What is the level of risk that I am creating a habitat for scorpions and other unwanted creatures by mulching around trees in my yard? Thanks for any guidance. From je1s@msn.com Fri Sep 5 02:25:06 2003 From: je1s@msn.com (je1s@msn.com) Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2003 19:25:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309050225.h852P6Zr014076@Ag.arizona.edu> I had a 7 year old desert spoon. The plant was not showing any overt signs of stress. After the last storm, I found the center sworl tipped on its side. I was able to pull each spoon of the plant easily from its place in the sworl. The inside of the spoons had a dark brown coloration and an oder. The plant was never over-watered. The roots seemed fine and showed no indication of grub or pest infestation. And the spoons themselves looked healthy. Could this plant have suffered from a toxic substance? (There has been some minor vandalism in the neighborhood.) Also a seven year-old acacia saligna looked fine on Saturday, and the following Monday all the leaves were desicated and brittle. Again, no signs of soil pests. What's going on? Thanks for your responses. Also, there are other desert spoons and acacias on the property, and they're fine. From dfischer@fnfinc.com Fri Sep 5 16:31:35 2003 From: dfischer@fnfinc.com (dfischer@fnfinc.com) Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2003 09:31:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309051631.h85GVZZr006585@Ag.arizona.edu> I have left a phone message, but no one has called back. My 20+ year old Arizona Ash looks very healthy, but individual branches are wilting and dieing. Do you know what might be happening and how I can treat? I live in Phx and the tree is flood irrigated with the yard. From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Fri Sep 5 17:47:36 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2003 10:47:36 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Scorpions in wood chip mulch Message-ID: <004701c373d5$cc2f8340$f231db43@ibmbna6040> Yes, scorpions will hide in wood chip mulch but they only come out at night. Scorpions are solitary creatures and do not nest together. They do not enter homes unless their envirement is disturbed by construction or tree removal. They also are a plus in that the feed on undesireable insects such as crickets and cockroaches. I take care of a church grounds where I have mulched with wood chips at least 50 trees, some of them adjoining a playground and in 10 years no one has observed a scorpion. The benefits of mulch around trees are great,such as cutting down on water usage, keeping the tree roots cooler in summer, eliminating most weeds and as the wood chips break down providing food for the trees. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --Original Message----- From: deloughery@cox.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Friday, September 05, 2003 7:04 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I am new to Arizona, so please forgive my ignorance about living in the desert. My question concerns the use of mulch or wood chips around trees. I know that mulch helps protect the tree roots and slows water evaporation. But I have also read that scorpions live in decaying wood. What is the level of risk that I am creating a habitat for scorpions and other unwanted creatures by mulching around trees in my yard? Thanks for any guidance. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From cstephens@infinet-is.com Fri Sep 5 19:06:43 2003 From: cstephens@infinet-is.com (Charles Stephens) Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2003 12:06:43 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200309051631.h85GVZZr006585@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <001901c373e0$d9166d20$1bda13d8@default> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C373A6.2BAB0720 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Sorry that no one has answered your phone message. The folks who reply = to phone messages have been swamped lately. I have been having the same problem with our old ash trees. Some of our = 30+ year old trees have been in decline for at least 10 years, but are = still providing lots of shade. I have had some conversations with Dr. = Mary Olsen, U of A Extension Plant Pathologist, about it; and she says = that no one knows what causes the problem or how to treat it. All that = she could suggest was to make sure the trees are being watered and = fertilized properly. Since you have flood irrigation, it is unlikely = that the trees need more water. I would suggest fertilizing with a = complete fertilizer following the directions on the bag. Charlie Stephens Master Gardener Phoenix ----- Original Message -----=20 From: dfischer@fnfinc.com=20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Friday, September 05, 2003 9:31 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have left a phone message, but no one has called back. My 20+ year old Arizona Ash looks very healthy, but individual = branches are wilting and dieing. =20 Do you know what might be happening and how I can treat? I live in Phx and the tree is flood irrigated with the yard. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener ------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C373A6.2BAB0720 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Sorry that no one has answered your = phone message.=20 The folks who reply to phone messages have been swamped = lately.

I have been having the same problem = with our old=20 ash trees. Some of our 30+ year old trees have been in decline for = at=20 least 10 years, but are still providing lots of shade. I have had some=20 conversations with Dr. Mary Olsen, U of A Extension Plant Pathologist, = about it;=20 and she says that no one knows what causes the problem or how to treat = it. All=20 that she could suggest was to make sure the trees are being watered and=20 fertilized properly. Since you have flood irrigation, it is unlikely = that the=20 trees need more water. I would suggest fertilizing with a complete = fertilizer=20 following the directions on the bag.

Charlie Stephens
Master=20 Gardener
Phoenix

----- Original Message -----
From:=20 dfischer@fnfinc.com
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu =

Sent: Friday, September 05, = 2003 9:31=20 AM

Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Question from=20 Home-Hort WWW page

I have left a phone message, but no one has called = back.
My=20 20+ year old Arizona Ash looks very healthy, but individual branches = are=20 wilting and dieing.
Do you know what might be happening and = how I=20 can treat?
I live in Phx and the tree is flood irrigated with the=20 = yard.

_______________________________________________
Arid_gard= ener=20 mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu=
http://Ag.A= rizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C373A6.2BAB0720-- From Jhedgpeth@aol.com Fri Sep 5 19:36:11 2003 From: Jhedgpeth@aol.com (Jhedgpeth@aol.com) Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2003 15:36:11 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: <42.3d3f5788.2c8a3fab@aol.com> -------------------------------1062790571 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have a yellow/orang fungus in my garden soil. I have tried captian and ferti-lome ( tetrachloroiso-phthalonitrite ) neither one affects the fungus. I have search fungi on line and I have not found a solution to the problem. I would appreciate any help I can get. thx Jay -------------------------------1062790571 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I have a yellow/orang fungus in my garden soil. I have tried captian an= d ferti-lome ( tetrachloroiso-phthalonitrite ) neither one affects the=20= fungus. I have search fungi on line and I have not found a solution to the p= roblem. I would appreciate any help I can get.

thx Jay
-------------------------------1062790571-- From deloughery@cox.net Fri Sep 5 19:07:46 2003 From: deloughery@cox.net (Paul Deloughery) Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2003 14:07:46 -0500 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Scorpions in wood chip mulch References: <004701c373d5$cc2f8340$f231db43@ibmbna6040> Message-ID: <001601c373e0$fe38a6e0$d50c6244@ph.cox.net> Thanks for the response. I have not notice many homeowners mulch around trees in Arizona. At least now I know it is a good idea. Paul Deloughery ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Cc: Sent: Friday, September 05, 2003 12:47 PM Subject: Scorpions in wood chip mulch > Yes, scorpions will hide in wood chip mulch but they only come out at night. > Scorpions are solitary creatures and do not nest together. They do not enter > homes unless their envirement is disturbed by construction or tree removal. > They also are a plus in that the feed on undesireable insects such as > crickets and cockroaches. > I take care of a church grounds where I have mulched with wood chips at > least 50 trees, some of them adjoining a playground and in 10 years no one > has observed a scorpion. > The benefits of mulch around trees are great,such as cutting down on water > usage, keeping the tree roots cooler in summer, eliminating most weeds and > as the wood chips break down providing food for the trees. > > Good luck. > > Rod McKusick > Master Gardener > > --Original Message----- > From: deloughery@cox.net > To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu > Date: Friday, September 05, 2003 7:04 AM > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > > >I am new to Arizona, so please forgive my ignorance about living in the > desert. My question concerns the use of mulch or wood chips around trees. I > know that mulch helps protect the tree roots and slows water evaporation. > But I have also read that scorpions live in decaying wood. What is the level > of risk that I am creating a habitat for scorpions and other unwanted > creatures by mulching around trees in my yard? Thanks for any guidance. > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Arid_gardener mailing list > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Fri Sep 5 22:17:46 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2003 15:17:46 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Desert spoon problem Message-ID: <004301c373fb$8a31a240$2aa9db43@ibmbna6040> I've not heard of the problem before so this is a guess. Since the symptoms are similiar to what the agave weevil causes on agaves I suspect that the agave weevil has attacked the desert spoon by chewing on the leaves and has transmitted a bacterial rot to the spoon. If this is the case you can help to stop the weevil next year by applying an insecticide such as diazanon to the ground around the spoons during May and June. You might be wise to purchase the diazanon or Spectricide now since it is being taken off the market soon. The symptoms on your Acacia saligna sound like those of Texas Root Rot. If so there is little that can be done to save the tree now. You can confirm the diagnosis by taking a root sample (8 to 10 inches long by finger diameter) to U. of A., Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for a lab test. Do not wash the root sample, placed in a plastic bag and refrigerate. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener Original Message----- From: je1s@msn.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Friday, September 05, 2003 7:08 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I had a 7 year old desert spoon. The plant was not showing any overt signs of stress. >After the last storm, I found the center sworl tipped on its side. I was able to pull each spoon of the plant easily from its place in the sworl. >The inside of the spoons had a dark brown coloration and an oder. >The plant was never over-watered. > The roots seemed fine and showed no indication of grub or pest infestation. And the spoons themselves looked healthy. >Could this plant have suffered from a toxic substance? (There has been some minor vandalism in the neighborhood.) >Also a seven year-old acacia saligna looked fine on Saturday, and the following Monday all the leaves were desicated and brittle. >Again, no signs of soil pests. >What's going on? >Thanks for your responses. >Also, there are other desert spoons and acacias on the property, and they're fine. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From bunkie@stevensleinweber.com Sat Sep 6 16:54:11 2003 From: bunkie@stevensleinweber.com (Bunkie McBride) Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2003 09:54:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] New house, old citrus Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0038_01C3745C.D270FFE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit We bought a house in Queen Creek last year that has 4 orange trees. One of the trees has never been pruned �up� and looks like the trees in an active citrus farm (lots of vegetation down to the ground). It�s nearly impossible to get �under� the tree to prune dead branches and thin. Other circumstances that may impact the tree are: (1) we have irrigation and will use that for watering, (2) we have two horses that will be brought to the property within 30 � 45 days (waiting for the new pasture grass to mature). Questions we have: 1. When can heavy pruning occur and how much is allowable to keep the tree from going into shock? 2. We assume exposing the trunk bark will cause the bark to burn. Is typical tree paint all that�s required to protect? 3. When is the proper time to feed the citrus trees and what is the proper product / quantity to use? 4. We also assume the tree will have to be protected from the horses. Do you know if horses are likely to eat the leaves, etc.? Thank you so much, Bunkie ------=_NextPart_000_0038_01C3745C.D270FFE0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

We = bought a house in Queen Creek last year that has 4 orange trees. One of the trees has never been pruned = “up” and looks like the trees in an active citrus farm (lots of vegetation down to the ground). It’s = nearly impossible to get “under” the tree to prune dead branches and thin. Other circumstances that may impact the tree are: (1) = we have irrigation and will use that for watering, (2) we have two horses = that will be brought to the property within 30 – 45 days (waiting for = the new pasture grass to mature).

Questions we have: =

1.       When can = heavy pruning occur and how much is allowable to keep the tree from going into shock? =

2.       We assume = exposing the trunk bark will cause the bark to burn. Is typical tree paint all that’s required to protect? =

3.       When is the = proper time to feed the citrus trees and what is the proper product / quantity to = use?

4.       We also = assume the tree will have to be protected from the horses. Do you know if horses are likely to eat the leaves, = etc.?

Thank = you so much, Bunkie

------=_NextPart_000_0038_01C3745C.D270FFE0-- From neffkiwiboy@aol.com Sat Sep 6 16:09:15 2003 From: neffkiwiboy@aol.com (neffkiwiboy@aol.com) Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2003 09:09:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309061609.h86G9FZr016802@Ag.arizona.edu> I live in Mesa. Is it possible to grow columbines or peonies here? From Weilerstr@aol.com Sat Sep 6 16:01:01 2003 From: Weilerstr@aol.com (Weilerstr@aol.com) Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2003 12:01:01 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: <6f.3c4cc839.2c8b5ebd@aol.com> --part1_6f.3c4cc839.2c8b5ebd_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit We had three 35' Ash trees removed, which had been planted in one hole. Will the remaining roots keep on growing for a while? Thank you. Inge --part1_6f.3c4cc839.2c8b5ebd_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable We had three 35' Ash trees removed, which had been pla= nted in one hole. Will the remaining roots keep on growing for a while? Than= k you. Inge --part1_6f.3c4cc839.2c8b5ebd_boundary-- From dmjc54@msn.com Sat Sep 6 15:50:26 2003 From: dmjc54@msn.com (dmjc54@msn.com) Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2003 08:50:26 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309061550.h86FoQZr015469@Ag.arizona.edu> what is the best way to control pearl scales in yard? what products can you recomend ? thanks David From PERFLOWERS@aol.com Sun Sep 7 02:03:16 2003 From: PERFLOWERS@aol.com (PERFLOWERS@aol.com) Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2003 22:03:16 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <115.28659e12.2c8bebe4@aol.com> I have never seen peonies growing here. I grew a yellow columbine for a while. In fact, it grew to be quite a pest as it kept volunteering, so I finally got rid of all of them. Val From celadoncove@cox.net Sat Sep 6 23:20:55 2003 From: celadoncove@cox.net (celadoncove@cox.net) Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2003 16:20:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309062320.h86NKtZr021539@Ag.arizona.edu> I am trying to find some flowering trees that will do well in Chandler. Not your run-of-the mill stuff. I've found a few that sound like they might be OK, but I can't tell for sure: Stenocarpus sinuatus (Firewheel Tree); Delonix regia (Royal Poinciana); Spathodea campanulata (African Tulip tree); Xanthorrhoea australis (Australian Grass tree); Contorted Mulberry; Port Wine banana shrub. I've looked on the internet and it's difficult to tell which, if any, would work here. Also, will any of the Canna varieties do well here, or only certain types (i.e. Canna Tropicana)? Thanks. From mnip@juno.com Sun Sep 7 22:05:40 2003 From: mnip@juno.com (mnip@juno.com) Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2003 15:05:40 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309072205.h87M5eZr026045@Ag.arizona.edu> Can you grow berries here? From micheledesigns@yahoo.com Sun Sep 7 21:21:25 2003 From: micheledesigns@yahoo.com (micheledesigns@yahoo.com) Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2003 14:21:25 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309072121.h87LLPZr022429@Ag.arizona.edu> I am interested in planting raspberries in my backyard here in Scottsdale. Will they grow? When do I plant them if they grow here, and what type should I buy? Is there a good local source for this? I am interested in your replies. Thanks for reading this. Michele From hfortin@cox.net Mon Sep 8 00:08:44 2003 From: hfortin@cox.net (hfortin@cox.net) Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2003 17:08:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309080008.h8808iZr008065@Ag.arizona.edu> New gardening in Az.(Maricopa County)would like to find information as to what vegetables grow the best and when to plant them. Is it to hot to plant any vegetables now or should I just be preparing my soil.\ Thank you in advance. From jhedgpeth@aol.com Mon Sep 8 04:32:07 2003 From: jhedgpeth@aol.com (jhedgpeth@aol.com) Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2003 21:32:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309080432.h884W7Zr003361@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a yellow/orange fungus in my soil how do I getv rid of it. j From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net Mon Sep 8 17:04:53 2003 From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2003 10:04:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Fall Vegetable Garden References: <200309080008.h8808iZr008065@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000b01c3762b$586bd8c0$ac56530c@olin> Cool season vegetables can be grown by direct seeding, sometimes in August (you may need to shade the seedlings) or in September and early October. . After that, success is better with transplants for leafy crops but root crops do not transplant as well. Most of the vegetables that can be grown successfully during our cool fall through early spring season are of the leafy variety, cabbage related varieties, and edible roots that can survive a light frost. For a planting calendar see the Master Gardener Manual at: http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/vegetable/regions13.html Use region 1 for the low desert. For general vegetable gardening information see: http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/vegetable/index.html http://home.att.net/~millero/DesertGardening/allveg.htm Right now is also a good time to prepare the soil. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > New gardening in Az.(Maricopa County)would like to find information as to what vegetables grow the best and when to plant them. Is it to hot to plant any vegetables now or should I just be preparing my soil. From plcgendel01@cox.net Mon Sep 8 17:20:06 2003 From: plcgendel01@cox.net (plcgendel01@cox.net) Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2003 10:20:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309081720.h88HK6Zr022096@Ag.arizona.edu> Pine tree/needles and toxin make it nearly impossible to grow Bermuda grass beneath (Rye is easy). Last year, I cut down several pine trees, however, this summer - still no Bermuda grass growth - completely bare. 1. Is there anything to be added to the soil to fix the toxins? 2. Should I remove the top 1-2 inches of soil and either plant new seed or sod? 3. It's probably too late to use new seed - how about sod? 4. Rye will be planted in mid Oct. - should I wait to next year to fix the problem? 5. Other suggestions re getting Bermuda grass to grow in this former pine tree area? Thanks, Paul From dopeyleam@msn.com Tue Sep 9 14:20:40 2003 From: dopeyleam@msn.com (dopeyleam@msn.com) Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 07:20:40 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309091420.h89EKeZr010788@Ag.arizona.edu> I have many mushrooms growing in my lawn, what is the cause and what if anything should I do about it? thank you From keithsue@san.rr.com Tue Sep 9 14:32:32 2003 From: keithsue@san.rr.com (Keith & Sue Colestock) Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 07:32:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] How much water for an African Sumac in a large clay pot? Message-ID: <000801c376df$3cfffda0$a1a7a118@san.rr.com> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C376A4.87DB0DA0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Help! We have a new 10-12' African Sumac in our courtyard in a very = large clay pot. We got a healthy specimen from the nursery 2 weeks ago = and it was transplanted into the pot with potting soil and gravel on the = bottom. The courtyard has a southern exposure, with about 5-6 hours of = hot sun in the middle of the day. We live in San Diego, inland where it = is dry and hot. A couple days ago the tree began to drop lots of leaves, = but the leaves are not brown or yellow. How much water should we give = the tree if it is in a clay pot (the roots will stay small and compact = in the pot). We were told to water frequently because the clay pot sucks = moisture from the soil, but we also know the African Sumac is suppose to = be drought tolerant. In the last 2 weeks the tree has been watered by = hand every 3-4 days -- a deep watering until it runs out the bottom of = the pot. P.S. The pot is elevated off the cement on pot feet. Please = help ... we are fairly new gardeners with little experience and don't = want to lose this beautiful tree. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C376A4.87DB0DA0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Help! We have a new 10-12' African = Sumac in our=20 courtyard in a very large clay pot. We got a healthy specimen from = the=20 nursery 2 weeks ago and it was transplanted into the pot with = potting soil=20 and gravel on the bottom. The courtyard has a southern exposure, with = about 5-6=20 hours of hot sun in the middle of the day. We live in San Diego, inland = where it=20 is dry and hot. A couple days ago the tree began to drop lots of = leaves,=20 but the leaves are not brown or yellow. How much water should we give = the tree=20 if it is in a clay pot (the roots will stay small and compact in the = pot). We=20 were told to water frequently because the clay pot sucks moisture from = the soil,=20 but we also know the African Sumac is suppose to be drought tolerant. In = the=20 last 2 weeks the tree has been watered by hand every 3-4 days -- a deep = watering=20 until it runs out the bottom of the pot. P.S. The pot is elevated off = the cement=20 on pot feet. Please help ... we are fairly new gardeners with little = experience=20 and don't want to lose this beautiful tree.
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C376A4.87DB0DA0-- From krqloser@yahoo.com Tue Sep 9 17:55:28 2003 From: krqloser@yahoo.com (Andre Mischel) Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 10:55:28 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] ryegrass prior to bermuda Message-ID: <20030909175528.76002.qmail@web11106.mail.yahoo.com> I am landscaping my new home but it is too late in the year to seed bermuda grass. If I seed ryegrass now will I still be able to grow bermuda grass successfully in the spring, or will I need to kill the rygrass before-hand? Or should I just stay away from this method entirely and be patient to plant bermuda in the spring? Thank you for any help, Andre (phoenix, az) __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com From ldigiacomo@cox.net Tue Sep 9 17:30:11 2003 From: ldigiacomo@cox.net (ldigiacomo@cox.net) Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 10:30:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309091730.h89HUBZr020074@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like to attract lizards to my city yard (to help control the crickets.) Any suggestions on what environment lizards like? Thanks, Laura From carole.flores@asu.edu Tue Sep 9 21:31:16 2003 From: carole.flores@asu.edu (Carole Flores) Date: Tue, 09 Sep 2003 14:31:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] remove me from mailing list please Message-ID: <01c201c37719$c3300de0$ad65db81@tonysmachine> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --Boundary_(ID_BG7YEtUZ3sMXwkjFqEkcZQ) Content-type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable Hi could you please remove me from the mailing list? Thanks! Carole Flores= --Boundary_(ID_BG7YEtUZ3sMXwkjFqEkcZQ) Content-type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable
Hi could you please remove me from the = mailing=20 list? Thanks!

Carole = Flores
--Boundary_(ID_BG7YEtUZ3sMXwkjFqEkcZQ)-- From kthmart@cableaz.com Tue Sep 9 21:13:58 2003 From: kthmart@cableaz.com (kthmart@cableaz.com) Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 14:13:58 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309092113.h89LDwZr009190@Ag.arizona.edu> I am growing, (exceptionally well) snail vine on the western exposure of my house...there is almost as much vine on the ground as on the trellis...when I trimmed the 'ground'vine, much of the climbing vine died. I will want to clear much of the vine away to decrease the insect population between the vine and the house...When is the best time to do this AND, how??? Thank you.KM From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Tue Sep 9 22:22:33 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 15:22:33 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] ryegrass prior to bermuda Message-ID: <005801c37720$df4362a0$d231db43@ibmbna6040> Andre, Yes it is too late to plant bermuda grass this year unles you were to use sod that has been overseeded with rye grass. Should you decide to plant rye this fall you will need to wait until the rye has died or kill it with an herbicide before seeding with bermuda. If next spring is as cool as it was this spring you would have to wait a while before planting bermuda. I still had rye that was green in July this year which didn't allow the bermuda to grow very well. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --Original Message----- From: Andre Mischel To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Tuesday, September 09, 2003 1:24 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] ryegrass prior to bermuda >I am landscaping my new home but it is too late in the >year to seed bermuda grass. If I seed ryegrass now >will I still be able to grow bermuda grass >successfully in the spring, or will I need to kill the >rygrass before-hand? Or should I just stay away from >this method entirely and be patient to plant bermuda >in the spring? > >Thank you for any help, > >Andre (phoenix, az) > >__________________________________ >Do you Yahoo!? >Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software >http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From ainsley@azorchids.com Tue Sep 9 20:51:07 2003 From: ainsley@azorchids.com (Ainsley LaCour) Date: Tue, 09 Sep 2003 13:51:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Desert Garden Institute: Tree Pruning and Care Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20030909135017.02248608@cals.arizona.edu> --=====================_21851951==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed The Desert Garden Institute Public Classes Taught by Master Gardeners presents Tree Pruning and Care Saturday, September 27, 2003 9:00 a.m. - 12:00 p.m. Instructor: Laurel Reader Cost: $20 Public, No charge for Master Gardeners To register: 602-470-8086 x 823 ainsley@azorchids.com Come and learn how to protect your investment. Learn the ins and outs of selecting, planting, staking and maintaining a structurally beautiful addition to your landscape. Avoid the hazards associated with improper pruning practices. Tell your friends! --=====================_21851951==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
The Desert Garden Institute
Public Classes Taught by Master Gardeners
presents

Tree Pruning and Care
Saturday, September 27, 2003
9:00 a.m. - 12:00 p.m.
Instructor: Laurel Reader

Cost: $20 Public, No charge for Master Gardeners
To register: 602-470-8086 x 823
ainsley@azorchids.com

Come and learn how to protect your investment. Learn the ins and outs of selecting, planting, staking and maintaining a structurally beautiful addition to your landscape. Avoid the hazards associated with improper pruning practices. Tell your friends!
--=====================_21851951==_.ALT-- From TylerStorey@aol.com Tue Sep 9 21:09:57 2003 From: TylerStorey@aol.com (by way of Lucy Bradley ) Date: Tue, 09 Sep 2003 14:09:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] [MG] Urban Plant Care Classes Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20030909140950.0289f3d0@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_9061259==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Two great courses in Urban Plant Care are being offered this Fall at Glendale Community College, and there's still plenty of time to register. The classes are being taught by George Hull, who is in charge of new plant introductions for Mountain States Wholesale Nursery and also teaches in the school of Planning and Landscape Architecture at Arizona State University. He's also a terrific and engaging teacher with years of professional experience in desert-adapted plants, so if you want to increase your knowledge, these are great classes to take. AGS192AB is all about the maintenance of urban plants, including irrigation, pruning, and preventive maintenance. AGS192AC will focus on diagnosing and curing urban plant problems, including diseases, insects, and natural controls. Each class is one credit and meets Tuesday and Thursday evenings from 5 to 7:50pm. AB meets for 5 weeks from September 30 through October 30; AC meets from November 4 through December 4. You can register on-line at www.gc.maricopa.edu, or by calling 623-845-3333. If you have any questions, let me know at tylerstorey@aol.com. --=====================_9061259==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Two great courses in Urban Plant Care are being offered this Fall at Glendale Community College, and there's still plenty of time to register.

The classes are being taught by George Hull, who is in charge of new plant introductions for Mountain States Wholesale Nursery and also teaches in the school of Planning and Landscape Architecture at Arizona State University. He's also a terrific and engaging teacher with years of professional experience in desert-adapted plants, so if you want to increase your knowledge, these are great classes to take.

AGS192AB is all about the maintenance of urban plants, including irrigation, pruning, and preventive maintenance.

A