From olinger@cox.net Mon Sep 1 01:23:11 2003 From: olinger@cox.net (olinger@cox.net) Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 18:23:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309010123.h811NBZr013233@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a large agave that has developed some sort of black root in the center of the plant which will kill it. The plant has an order. It is to late to treat this plant however i would like to know what it is and how to prevent it in the future and how to keep my other agaves from becoming infected. I don't beleive it is from over watering. This plant has been in the ground for apx. 3 years. Type is a blue agave. thank you From Surfrgirl338@aol.com Mon Sep 1 01:21:17 2003 From: Surfrgirl338@aol.com (Surfrgirl338@aol.com) Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 21:21:17 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: --part1_a.34f77536.2c83f90d_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit We have seven humongous pecan trees around our house, They are probably 60+ years old. Probably have never had anything done to them in the way of care/pruning. This is the producing year and they are loaded! We have been here almost three years and this will be our second harvest. However we cannot let these trees remain as they are. We are both retired and getting older and to think of having to go out every day and pick up branches is a little more than we want to do. Huge (and I mean huge!) limbs break and fall off, in the last week we have lost two very large limbs and I dread to think what would happen should someone be standing/walking under these trees when another limb decides to let go. This is a regular occurence. We have consulted a man who has been in the business for ten years and despite all I have read we are seriously thinking of having them topped when the crop is gathered. I tried to contact a lumber company to remove them and perhaps replace them with nice shade trees but no one seems interested. I figured they would do that for the wood. (Pecan) is expensive!. So unless you can give me another alternative to reduce the size of these babies. they are ging to be topped. Sincerely Barbara Puszert Gaffney SC --part1_a.34f77536.2c83f90d_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable We have seven humongous pecan trees around our house,=20= They are probably 60+ years old. Probably have never had anything done to th= em in the way of care/pruning.
This is the producing year and they are loaded! 
We have been here almost three years and this will be our second harvest.&nb= sp; However we cannot let these trees remain as they are. We are both retire= d and getting older and to think of having to go out every day and pick up b= ranches is a little more than we want to do.
Huge (and I mean huge!) limbs break and fall off, in the last week we have l= ost two very large limbs and I dread to think what would happen should someo= ne be standing/walking under these trees when another limb decides to let go= . This is a regular occurence.
We have consulted a man who has been in the business for ten years and despi= te all I have read we are seriously thinking of having them topped when the=20= crop is gathered. I tried to contact a lumber company to remove them and per= haps replace them with nice shade trees but no one seems interested. I figur= ed they would do that for the wood. (Pecan) is expensive!.
So unless you can give me another alternative to reduce the size of these ba= bies. they are ging to be topped.
Sincerely
Barbara Puszert
Gaffney SC --part1_a.34f77536.2c83f90d_boundary-- From j_harrell@NetZero.net Mon Sep 1 02:13:36 2003 From: j_harrell@NetZero.net (Jackie and Bill Harrell) Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 19:13:36 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Burmuda grass length Message-ID: <3F52AB50.5200DBE0@NetZero.net> Dear Master Gardener, I bought a Neuton battery powered mower (from Vermont) and love many things about it, but it only cuts to 1 1/2". We want to mulch, too, and it just blows the leaves around, and when it does cut, it doesn't mulch very finely. What do you now recommend for the length of our grass here? I used to hear that we can start at 3/4" in the spring and gradually raise the mower to maybe 1 1/2" by the end of the season, like now. However, that seems too high to make a neat lawn, even by this time of the year. And is 3/4" o.k. for the start? I'll have to return the Neuton. The tech man there just gasped over the phone when I told him how short we cut it out here. A Michigan friend of mine cuts hers at 2-2 1/2". Why the differences? Am I wrong in my thinking? Also, what mulching mower is any good that isn't gas powered? Our Ryobi costs so much money with new betteries and "checks" on the systems every 12-18 months that we'd like something else and still be environmentally smart. I'd appreciate any suggestions. Thanks! Jackie From j_harrell@NetZero.net Mon Sep 1 02:21:49 2003 From: j_harrell@NetZero.net (Jackie and Bill Harrell) Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 19:21:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Passion vine Message-ID: <3F52AD3D.B8E36B67@NetZero.net> Dear Master Gardener, Another question - I have a Passion Vine started from a slip from Indiana, and I rue the day! It's still a lovely vine and flower, BUT in about 2 years it has taken over my 20 x 30 foot garden, 3 feet high (I haven't been able to work it this year), and it's coming up all over my yard. The problem is that it seems to grow deep and migrate underground - I had plans to contain it with perhaps 10" barriers, but my daughter had hers in a 3 foot high rock wall and it still came out in the grass! Maybe it's impossible to contain, except in a POT? Any of you have experience with this vine? I'm anxious to hear! And to think that I can't plant the purple Morning Glory but this vine is totally legal! The Gulf Fritillery butterflies are nice - I rival the Botanical Garden in certain months, BUT... Jackie From bvickerman1@cox.net Mon Sep 1 04:43:12 2003 From: bvickerman1@cox.net (Barb & Bruce Vickerman) Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 21:43:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Australian willow trees Message-ID: <000c01c37043$8cd20640$6401a8c0@home> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C37008.E049FB60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have 4 Australian willows that are almost 10 years old and 20-30' = tall. They're on drip and did well until a couple of years ago. The = nursery man told me the problem is borers--branches just turn brown and = die. You can see small scars on the branches. It seems strange because = the rest of the branch will look green and healthy. I tried spraying = borer spray but the trees are too tall to do a decent job. Are we = destined to lose these trees? We've already lost 2--branch by branch. =20 Thanks. =20 ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C37008.E049FB60 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
   I have 4 Australian = willows  that=20 are almost 10 years old and 20-30' tall.  They're on drip and did = well=20 until a couple of years ago.  The nursery man told me the problem = is=20 borers--branches just turn brown and die.  You can see small scars = on the=20 branches.  It seems strange because the rest of the branch = will look=20 green and healthy.  I tried spraying borer spray but the trees are = too tall=20 to do a decent job.  Are we destined to lose these trees?  = We've=20 already lost 2--branch by branch. 
    Thanks.
   

 

------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C37008.E049FB60-- From Marshalovesros@aol.com Mon Sep 1 16:22:05 2003 From: Marshalovesros@aol.com (Marshalovesros@aol.com) Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 12:22:05 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Recomended planting season for Queen Palms in Phoenix Message-ID: <127.302d6368.2c84cc2d@aol.com> --part1_127.302d6368.2c84cc2d_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have a dead queen palm tree, i have been seriously trying to dig it out since looks like it has no hope, please help me to first how would i dig it out, if indeed has no hope, and if it does, how can i revive it? and then if is not revivable, what month of the year should I plant a new one right on the same place of the old one. you prompt reply will be greatly appreciated. Marsha --part1_127.302d6368.2c84cc2d_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have a dead queen palm tree, i have been seriously t= rying to dig it out since looks like  it has no hope, please help me to= first how would i dig it out, if indeed has no hope, and if it does, how ca= n i revive it? and then if is not revivable, what month of the year should I= plant a new one right on the same place of the old one.
you prompt reply will be greatly appreciated.

            &nbs= p;          Marsha --part1_127.302d6368.2c84cc2d_boundary-- From isaiah58@cgmailbox.com Mon Sep 1 16:23:56 2003 From: isaiah58@cgmailbox.com (White O' Mornin') Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 09:23:56 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Veggie's garden? References: <3F52AB50.5200DBE0@NetZero.net> Message-ID: <001801c370a5$76a75b60$db7d953f@robertde> Greetings, We have a large area (20 x 40) that we planted with sweet corn in the spring. Now that the corn is gone and the weather is cooling, some, we would like to plant carrots and radishes. Do you think this space has enough nutrients to support another crop? I understand that corn is very hard on the soil and am thinking maybe we should give the soil a rest for the winter and plant in another spot? What do you think? What would you plant there, if anything? What would you recommend to enhance the soil in that area so that we can plant there again now, and then hopefully more corn in the spring? Thanks, Rachel Zone - 13 Arizona low desert From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Mon Sep 1 19:04:25 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 12:04:25 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Australian willow trees dying Message-ID: <006001c370bb$dd5471c0$7c2c0a3f@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_005D_01C37081.2FD842E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Barb and Bruce, We have just gone through five years of severe drought and the hottest = July on record. What may have been adequate water a few years ago has = not been adequate this year. Unless you are watering to a three foot = depth the trees are not getting enough water. Without adequate water = trees and plants become stressed and stressed trees attract all kinds of = insects and disease. If borers are causing the damage you should see holes where the insects = enter the tree. The lindane treatment will usually help to get rid of = the borers. Because of the size of the trees you may have to call in a Certified = Arborist to do the spraying. He will also be able to tell you if borers = are the problem. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: Barb & Bruce Vickerman To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, September 01, 2003 6:43 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Australian willow trees I have 4 Australian willows that are almost 10 years old and = 20-30' tall. They're on drip and did well until a couple of years ago. = The nursery man told me the problem is borers--branches just turn brown = and die. You can see small scars on the branches. It seems strange = because the rest of the branch will look green and healthy. I tried = spraying borer spray but the trees are too tall to do a decent job. Are = we destined to lose these trees? We've already lost 2--branch by = branch. =20 Thanks. =20 =20 ------=_NextPart_000_005D_01C37081.2FD842E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Barb and Bruce,
We have just gone through five years of severe = drought and the=20 hottest July on record. What may have been adequate water a few years = ago has=20 not been adequate this year. Unless you are watering to a three foot = depth the=20 trees are not getting enough water. Without adequate water trees and = plants=20 become stressed and stressed trees attract all kinds of insects and=20 disease.
If borers are causing the damage you should see = holes where=20 the insects enter the tree. The lindane treatment will usually help to=20 get rid of the borers.
Because of the size of the trees you may have to = call in a=20 Certified Arborist to do the spraying. He will also be able to tell you = if=20 borers are the problem.
 
Good luck.
 
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
-----Original = Message-----
From:=20 Barb & Bruce Vickerman <bvickerman1@cox.net>
To: = Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu = <Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Date:=20 Monday, September 01, 2003 6:43 AM
Subject: = [Arid_gardener]=20 Australian willow trees

   I have 4 Australian = willows =20 that are almost 10 years old and 20-30' tall.  They're on drip = and did=20 well until a couple of years ago.  The nursery man told me the = problem is=20 borers--branches just turn brown and die.  You can see small = scars on the=20 branches.  It seems strange because the rest of the branch = will look=20 green and healthy.  I tried spraying borer spray but the trees = are too=20 tall to do a decent job.  Are we destined to lose these = trees? =20 We've already lost 2--branch by branch. 
    = Thanks.
   

 

------=_NextPart_000_005D_01C37081.2FD842E0-- From popsy97@yahoo.com Mon Sep 1 19:42:59 2003 From: popsy97@yahoo.com (Judy Braden) Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 12:42:59 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Passion vine In-Reply-To: <3F52AD3D.B8E36B67@NetZero.net> Message-ID: <20030901194259.82913.qmail@web11003.mail.yahoo.com> I have the variety 'Incense' and it suckers a lot, too. And deeply, as you say. I just take a little hand spade and dig down as far as I can and get as much as possible. Sometimes they don't come up again and if they do, I do the same thing. You might try painting some Roundup on the leaves of the ones you don't want. --- Jackie and Bill Harrell wrote: > Dear Master Gardener, > > Another question - I have a Passion Vine started > from a slip from > Indiana, and I rue the day! It's still a lovely > vine and flower, BUT in > about 2 years it has taken over my 20 x 30 foot > garden, 3 feet high (I > haven't been able to work it this year), and it's > coming up all over my > yard. > > The problem is that it seems to grow deep and > migrate underground - I > had plans to contain it with perhaps 10" barriers, > but my daughter had > hers in a 3 foot high rock wall and it still came > out in the grass! > Maybe it's impossible to contain, except in a POT? > > Any of you have experience with this vine? I'm > anxious to hear! > > And to think that I can't plant the purple Morning > Glory but this vine > is totally legal! The Gulf Fritillery butterflies > are nice - I rival > the Botanical Garden in certain months, BUT... > > Jackie > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Mon Sep 1 18:50:08 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 11:50:08 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Burmuda grass length Message-ID: <004b01c370b9$de724fc0$7c2c0a3f@ibmbna6040> Jackie, I suspect that your electric mower is not made to mulch and does not have enough power to do so. The mowing height of your bermuda grass will depend on the type of bermuda that you have. If you have common bermuda or Midiron hybrid bermuda it can be cut anywhere from one inch to 2 1/2 inches high. If the grass is Tifgreen, Tifway or Santa Ana it can be cut shorter. The shorter you cut the grass the more often you will have to cut it. You should never cut off more than 1/3 of the total height at one time. Personally I cut the grass to 2 1/2 inches high because the grass doesn't have to be cut as often and the greater height shades the ground better and helps to keep the weeds down. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: Jackie and Bill Harrell To: arid gardener Date: Monday, September 01, 2003 6:42 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Burmuda grass length >Dear Master Gardener, > > I bought a Neuton battery powered mower (from Vermont) and love many >things about it, but it only cuts to 1 1/2". We want to mulch, too, and >it just blows the leaves around, and when it does cut, it doesn't mulch >very finely. > > What do you now recommend for the length of our grass here? I used to >hear that we can start at 3/4" in the spring and gradually raise the >mower to maybe 1 1/2" by the end of the season, like now. However, that >seems too high to make a neat lawn, even by this time of the year. > > And is 3/4" o.k. for the start? > > I'll have to return the Neuton. The tech man there just gasped over >the phone when I told him how short we cut it out here. A Michigan >friend of mine cuts hers at 2-2 1/2". Why the differences? Am I wrong >in my thinking? > > Also, what mulching mower is any good that isn't gas powered? Our >Ryobi costs so much money with new betteries and "checks" on the systems >every 12-18 months that we'd like something else and still be >environmentally smart. I'd appreciate any suggestions. > > Thanks! Jackie > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Mon Sep 1 18:23:51 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 11:23:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pecan Trees oversized Message-ID: <003801c370b6$325fbe00$7c2c0a3f@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0035_01C3707B.84F45800 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Barbara, It is a no-no to top any kind of tree. Yes I know that the utility = companies do it but they have no choice. Trees that are planted under = utility lines, when they interfere with the lines must be cut back. My recommendation is to have a Certified Arborist inspect your trees and = recommend a course of action. A certified Arborist will be well = qualified to make recommendations and to do the work. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener=20 -----Original Message----- From: Surfrgirl338@aol.com To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Sunday, August 31, 2003 7:10 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) We have seven humongous pecan trees around our house, They are = probably 60+ years old. Probably have never had anything done to them in = the way of care/pruning. This is the producing year and they are loaded! =20 We have been here almost three years and this will be our second = harvest. However we cannot let these trees remain as they are. We are = both retired and getting older and to think of having to go out every = day and pick up branches is a little more than we want to do.=20 Huge (and I mean huge!) limbs break and fall off, in the last week we = have lost two very large limbs and I dread to think what would happen = should someone be standing/walking under these trees when another limb = decides to let go. This is a regular occurence. We have consulted a man who has been in the business for ten years and = despite all I have read we are seriously thinking of having them topped = when the crop is gathered. I tried to contact a lumber company to remove = them and perhaps replace them with nice shade trees but no one seems = interested. I figured they would do that for the wood. (Pecan) is = expensive!. So unless you can give me another alternative to reduce the size of = these babies. they are ging to be topped. Sincerely Barbara Puszert Gaffney SC=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0035_01C3707B.84F45800 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Barbara,
It is a no-no to top any kind of tree. Yes I know = that the=20 utility companies do it but they have no choice. Trees that are planted = under=20 utility lines, when they interfere with the lines  must be cut=20 back.
My recommendation is to have a Certified Arborist = inspect your=20 trees and recommend a course of action. A  certified Arborist will = be well=20 qualified to make recommendations and to do the work.
 
Good luck.
 
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener 
 -----Original=20 Message-----
From: Surfrgirl338@aol.com <Surfrgirl338@aol.com>
To: = Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu = <Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Date:=20 Sunday, August 31, 2003 7:10 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = (no=20 subject)

We have=20 seven humongous pecan trees around our house, They are probably 60+ = years old.=20 Probably have never had anything done to them in the way of=20 care/pruning.
This is the producing year and they are loaded!  =
We=20 have been here almost three years and this will be our second = harvest. =20 However we cannot let these trees remain as they are. We are both = retired and=20 getting older and to think of having to go out every day and pick up = branches=20 is a little more than we want to do.
Huge (and I mean huge!) limbs = break=20 and fall off, in the last week we have lost two very large limbs and I = dread=20 to think what would happen should someone be standing/walking under = these=20 trees when another limb decides to let go. This is a regular = occurence.
We=20 have consulted a man who has been in the business for ten years and = despite=20 all I have read we are seriously thinking of having them topped when = the crop=20 is gathered. I tried to contact a lumber company to remove them and = perhaps=20 replace them with nice shade trees but no one seems interested. I = figured they=20 would do that for the wood. (Pecan) is expensive!.
So unless you = can give=20 me another alternative to reduce the size of these babies. they are = ging to be=20 topped.
Sincerely
Barbara Puszert
Gaffney SC=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0035_01C3707B.84F45800-- From Fraser475@aol.com Mon Sep 1 19:39:03 2003 From: Fraser475@aol.com (Fraser475@aol.com) Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 15:39:03 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gibberalic Acid use - grapes and camelias Message-ID: --part1_f8.2ff0c139.2c84fa57_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have, in the past, used gibberalic acid on camelia buds to have larger, earlier specimens, but have used the small supply I had on hand. Can you tell me where I may purchase another supply to be used, if not this year then next year. Also, I had not heard of using gibberalic acid on grapes, but am very interested in this, too. Please respond to my email site: Fraser475@aol.com. Thank you very much. Nell --part1_f8.2ff0c139.2c84fa57_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have, in the past, used gibberalic acid on camelia bud= s to have larger, earlier specimens, but have used the small supply I had on= hand.  Can you tell me where I may purchase another supply to be used,= if not this year then next year.

Also, I had not heard of using gibberalic acid on grapes, but am very intere= sted in this, too.

Please respond to my email site: Fraser475@aol.com.

Thank you very much.

Nell --part1_f8.2ff0c139.2c84fa57_boundary-- From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Mon Sep 1 18:12:49 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 11:12:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Agave Weevil Message-ID: <002601c370b4$a8a1b520$7c2c0a3f@ibmbna6040> The Agave Weevil, a black insect about an inch long with a long snout, in early summer chews the surface of the leaves of the agave and introduces a bacterial rot which is what you are seeing on your agave. Meanwhile their lavae which look like white grubs have bored into the ground and are feasting on the roots of the agave. Once you have seen the rot it is too late to do anything about the insect except to remove and destroy the plant. Control can be effected by sprinkling a granular insecticide such as Diazanon on the ground around the plant in May, June and July. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: olinger@cox.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Sunday, August 31, 2003 7:09 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I have a large agave that has developed some sort of black root in the center of the plant which will kill it. The plant has an order. It is to late to treat this plant however i would like to know what it is and how to prevent it in the future and how to keep my other agaves from becoming infected. >I don't beleive it is from over watering. This plant has been in the ground for apx. 3 years. Type is a blue agave. thank you > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From popsy97@yahoo.com Tue Sep 2 02:06:43 2003 From: popsy97@yahoo.com (Judy Braden) Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 19:06:43 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] bamboo and desert willow In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20030902020643.57203.qmail@web11005.mail.yahoo.com> Golden bamboo can really be a problem. It spreads by runners, and they may pop up far from where you expect them. If you don't get all the runner, it keeps trying to grow. There are other bamboos you could try, if you like the look. Make sure that it is a 'clumper' not a 'runner'. Golden Goddess is one you might like. It is Bambusa multiplex. Golden is Phyllostachys. --- Thomas Homans wrote: > 2 quick questions: > > 1) I'm looking for something to plant along the > house, facing north, which > sees shade approx. > 80% of the day, even in summer. Saw some golden > bamboo at a nursery in > Prescott today (we > live in Apache Jct) and am wondering if this would > be a suitable solution, > since it appears to be a > moderately fast grower, but am not sure if it would > need more sunlight to > survive. If this isn't > feasible, what other options would I have for > something that grows to > approx. 8-10 feet in > height and is low sun/low water? > > 2) We're pulling a Tipu planted last October that > doesn't seem interested > in living in the west > side of our yard, and rather than waiting to see if > it will ever put out > leaves again, I'm looking to > replace it with a low water solution, a native tree > that grows to approx. > 20' by 20'. I've looked > at the Desert Willow, but you don't get much tree > for your money (24'' boxes > I've seen are > barely 2 feet tall). Any suggestions? > > If anyone's interested, pictures of our house, > inside and out, are available > at www.geocities.com/adamyouch2001. > > thanks in advance, > tom > > _________________________________________________________________ > Help protect your PC: Get a free online virus scan > at McAfee.com. > http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com From Laminacknancy@aol.com Tue Sep 2 05:11:49 2003 From: Laminacknancy@aol.com (by way of Lucy Bradley ) Date: Mon, 01 Sep 2003 22:11:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20030901221126.01fe5070@ag.arizona.edu> The leaves on my crepe myrtle are burned. I was told to apply gypsum to reduce the salt in the soil. I have lantana growing in the same bed. If the gypsum were applied, will it affect the lantana? Thank you! Laminacknancy@aol.com From gardenguy@gardenerscorner.com Tue Sep 2 17:58:47 2003 From: gardenguy@gardenerscorner.com (Garden Guy) Date: Tue, 02 Sep 2003 13:58:47 -0400 Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: No, gypsum will not hurt the lantana. -- Chat with you later, Alan -- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ----- Alan Zelhart gizmoaz@cox.net Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- Today is National Existential Ennui Awareness Day > The leaves on my crepe myrtle are burned. I was told to apply gypsum to > reduce the salt in the soil. I have lantana growing in the same bed. If > the gypsum were applied, will it affect the lantana? > > Thank you! > Laminacknancy@aol.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > -- From gwright@Ag.arizona.edu Tue Sep 2 17:02:30 2003 From: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu (Glenn C. Wright) Date: Tue, 02 Sep 2003 10:02:30 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: Holes in citrus Message-ID: <5.1.1.6.2.20030902100150.00bb04d8@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_5269875==.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed >X-WebTV-Signature: 1 > ETAtAhUAhUQZfEeqAaetp8kf80MwXJXh0UYCFGDbuLCR0FRDXrCb6VeroWCsFp+d >From: blrjwr@webtv.net (Joseph Ralston) >Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 22:12:36 -0700 (MST) >To: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: Holes in citrus > >My AZ sweet orange, and Tx Ruby Red grapefruit trees have fruit that >drops with a hole poked into them. Woodpeckers? Parasite? I started last >year and is continung with the current crop, which is abundent on both >trees. Thanks, Joseph W . Ralston, blrjwr@webtv.net Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D. Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist University of Arizona - Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center 2186 W. County 15th Street Somerton, AZ 85350 Phone: 928-726-0458 FAX: 928-726-1363 e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu --=====================_5269875==.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
X-WebTV-Signature: 1
        ETAtAhUAhUQZfEeqAaetp8kf80MwXJXh0UYCFGDbuLCR0FRDXrCb6VeroWCsFp+d
From: blrjwr@webtv.net (Joseph Ralston)
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2003 22:12:36 -0700 (MST)
To: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: Holes in citrus

My AZ sweet orange, and Tx Ruby Red grapefruit trees have fruit that
drops with a hole poked into them. Woodpeckers? Parasite? I started last
year and is continung with the current crop, which is abundent on both
trees. Thanks, Joseph  W . Ralston, blrjwr@webtv.net 

Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D.
Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist
University of Arizona - Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center
2186 W. County 15th Street
Somerton, AZ 85350
Phone: 928-726-0458
FAX: 928-726-1363
e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu --=====================_5269875==.ALT-- From fnader@comcast.net Tue Sep 2 18:23:34 2003 From: fnader@comcast.net (Faran Nader) Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 11:23:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvilliea Message-ID: <004601c3717f$546004f0$567ae80c@central.com> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0043_01C37144.A5680B80 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable My Bougainvilliea looks healthy but the leaves are getting bigger and = bigger and blooms are getting fewer and fewer. The first year was doing = very good. Could you tell me what could be the reason. Thanks for your time Faran Nader MIS Director Oregon Human Development Corp. (503) 452-6673 OR (925) 426-5636 CA fnader@ohdc.org ------=_NextPart_000_0043_01C37144.A5680B80 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

My Bougainvilliea looks healthy but the = leaves are=20 getting bigger and bigger and blooms are getting fewer and fewer. The = first year=20 was doing very good. Could you tell me what could be the = reason.
Thanks for your time
 
Faran Nader
MIS Director
Oregon = Human=20 Development Corp.
(503) 452-6673  OR
(925) 426-5636  = CA
fnader@ohdc.org
------=_NextPart_000_0043_01C37144.A5680B80-- From kroon@mindspring.com Tue Sep 2 19:12:04 2003 From: kroon@mindspring.com (kroon@mindspring.com) Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 12:12:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309021912.h82JC4Zr011171@Ag.arizona.edu> Hello - Please forward this request for information to the appropriate office/agency. Thank you. This is a request for information about a fungus or what ever it is tha is growing in the yard of our Phoenix home. The growth appeared first in the bermuda grass, now I have found it in dirt between bricks in the front entryway ( nothing there is watered - i.e. no plants ) and this morning found a large growth in the dirt underneath a citrus tree in the yard. Color - about like that of bread dough. Rubbery like consistency. Starts small and if left alone can grow up to the size of the growth found this morning under the citrus - about 12 -14 inches across -- about 6 inches tall. Does not appear to have very deep roots. I have taken samples to commercial nurserys. They state they have never seen anything like it before, and suggested the use of various commercial fungicides. The jury is still out on whether these fungicides work or not. Can you help identify this and suggest a treatment. Thank you C.R.Kroon 3845 E. Sunnyside Drive Phoenix, AZ 85028 602-390-0861 From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Tue Sep 2 21:40:07 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 14:40:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvilliea Message-ID: <003401c3719a$c8cbaf40$f52c0a3f@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0031_01C37160.1AE32A00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Faran, I suspect that you may be over watering or over fertilizing your = bougainvillea or both. Once bougainvillea is established ( one year )it = requires very little water or fertilizer. Also bougainvillea will have = the best bloom when planted where it has full sun. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: Faran Nader To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Tuesday, September 02, 2003 1:54 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvilliea My Bougainvilliea looks healthy but the leaves are getting bigger and = bigger and blooms are getting fewer and fewer. The first year was doing = very good. Could you tell me what could be the reason. Thanks for your time Faran Nader MIS Director Oregon Human Development Corp. (503) 452-6673 OR (925) 426-5636 CA fnader@ohdc.org ------=_NextPart_000_0031_01C37160.1AE32A00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Faran,
I suspect that you may be over watering or over = fertilizing=20 your bougainvillea or both. Once bougainvillea is established ( one year = )it=20 requires very little water or fertilizer. Also bougainvillea will have = the best=20 bloom when planted where it has full sun.
 
Good luck.
 
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
-----Original = Message-----
From:=20 Faran Nader <fnader@comcast.net>
To: = Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu = <Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Date:=20 Tuesday, September 02, 2003 1:54 PM
Subject: = [Arid_gardener]=20 Bougainvilliea

My Bougainvilliea looks healthy but = the leaves=20 are getting bigger and bigger and blooms are getting fewer and fewer. = The=20 first year was doing very good. Could you tell me what could be the=20 reason.
Thanks for your time
 
Faran Nader
MIS Director
Oregon = Human=20 Development Corp.
(503) 452-6673  OR
(925) 426-5636  = CA
fnader@ohdc.org
------=_NextPart_000_0031_01C37160.1AE32A00-- From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Tue Sep 2 21:51:32 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 14:51:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Recomended planting season for Queen Palms in Phoenix Message-ID: <004601c3719c$60b64260$f52c0a3f@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0043_01C37161.B2D55E40 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Marsha If all the fronds on your queen palm have turned brown with no green = showing the palm is dead and should be removed. If the palm is very = large it will be quite difficult to dig it out by hand. The preferred time for planting palms is during warm weather (April = through September). Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: Marshalovesros@aol.com To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, September 01, 2003 9:40 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Recomended planting season for Queen Palms in = Phoenix I have a dead queen palm tree, i have been seriously trying to dig it = out since looks like it has no hope, please help me to first how would = i dig it out, if indeed has no hope, and if it does, how can i revive = it? and then if is not revivable, what month of the year should I plant = a new one right on the same place of the old one.=20 you prompt reply will be greatly appreciated.=20 Marsha=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0043_01C37161.B2D55E40 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Marsha
If all the fronds on your queen palm have turned = brown with no=20 green showing the palm is dead and should be removed. If the palm is = very large=20 it will be quite difficult to dig it out by hand.
 
The preferred time for planting palms is during warm = weather=20 (April through September).
 
Good luck.
 
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
-----Original = Message-----
From:=20 Marshalovesros@aol.com <Marshalovesros@aol.com>
To:=20 Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu = <Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Date:=20 Monday, September 01, 2003 9:40 AM
Subject: = [Arid_gardener]=20 Recomended planting season for Queen Palms in = Phoenix

I have=20 a dead queen palm tree, i have been seriously trying to dig it out = since looks=20 like  it has no hope, please help me to first how would i dig it = out, if=20 indeed has no hope, and if it does, how can i revive it? and then if = is not=20 revivable, what month of the year should I plant a new one right on = the same=20 place of the old one.
you prompt reply will be greatly = appreciated.=20 =

           = ;           =20 Marsha
------=_NextPart_000_0043_01C37161.B2D55E40-- From THEOCEANBUMS@aol.com Wed Sep 3 06:01:32 2003 From: THEOCEANBUMS@aol.com (THEOCEANBUMS@aol.com) Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 02:01:32 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] broken cacti Message-ID: <78.4686ab85.2c86ddbc@aol.com> --part1_78.4686ab85.2c86ddbc_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit i have a small indoor cactus, one pillar about eight in long, a wind storm knocked the stand over and broke it off at the base, i cant find any info on how to save Fred, can i replant without roots? or how should i try and save him?? thank you, please e-mail with a sight or any thing that will help, april theoceanbums@aol.com --part1_78.4686ab85.2c86ddbc_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable i have a small indoor cactus, one pillar about eight i= n long, a wind storm knocked the stand over and broke it off at the base, i=20= cant find any info on how to save Fred, can i replant without roots? or how=20= should i try and save him?? 
thank you, please e-mail with a sight or any thing that will help,
april
theoceanbums@aol.com --part1_78.4686ab85.2c86ddbc_boundary-- From Msmink8259@aol.com Wed Sep 3 05:47:18 2003 From: Msmink8259@aol.com (Msmink8259@aol.com) Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 01:47:18 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bottle Trees (Brachychiton Populneus) Message-ID: <1ec.f11d787.2c86da66@aol.com> --part1_1ec.f11d787.2c86da66_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi, I have three bottle trees in my back yard. I live in nw Tucson. My problem seems to be that leaves are turning brown and smaller branches are just falling off. The trees are on a drip with 1 gph emiters that run for about two hours a couple days a week. Can you please tell me what the problem is? Are they getting too much water or not enough? The middle tree is the youngest and it is not growing as fast as the other two had when they were first planted. Also, the neighbor behind me had planted a couple of palo verde trees at his fence line that is only a couple feet from my trees. Is it possible that his trees are stealing the water for my trees? It seems that these problems started after his trees were planted. Thank you for your help. Lisa Zeno --part1_1ec.f11d787.2c86da66_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi,

I have three bottle trees in my back yard.  I live in nw Tucson. =20= My problem seems to be that leaves are turning brown and smaller branches ar= e just falling off.  The trees are on a drip with 1 gph emiters that ru= n for about two hours a couple days a week.  Can you please tell me wha= t the problem is?  Are they getting too much water or not enough? = The middle tree is the youngest and it is not growing as fast as the other=20= two had when they were first planted.  Also, the neighbor behind me had= planted a couple of palo verde trees at his fence line that is only a coupl= e feet from my trees.  Is it possible that his trees are stealing the w= ater for my trees?  It seems that these problems started after his tree= s were planted.

Thank you for your help.

Lisa Zeno --part1_1ec.f11d787.2c86da66_boundary-- From mmb@storyteller.net Wed Sep 3 04:35:42 2003 From: mmb@storyteller.net (mmb@storyteller.net) Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 21:35:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Edging bermuda lawn with flashing? Message-ID: <3700.68.106.224.204.1062563742.squirrel@www.storyteller.net> I am thinking of burying a barrier of aluninum flashing under a brick border to help keep my vigorous Bermuda lawn out of the flower beds, which are level with the lawn. Does anyone have any thoughts on this? Perhaps something other than the flashing? How many inches deep should the barrier be? Thanks so much for any insights! Michelle Avondale, Zone 13 From boahiss@earthlink.net Wed Sep 3 00:47:24 2003 From: boahiss@earthlink.net (Marcia Lincoln) Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 17:47:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Moth problems References: <200308310008.h7V08cZr003887@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <006001c371b4$f173dca0$6401a8c0@athlon2100> Are your moths tan to dark brown, about 1" long? We always have a problem here in Tucson with these sneaking into the house in summer. Right now their numbers have increased. They are quite pesky and as you say, insist on flying inside when the door is open. What we do is keep a flyswatter outside the door and swat all the ones hanging around before opening the door. If you miss, they tend to settle again quickly nearby, so you get another shot. They are fragile so it doesn't take much of a whack. This takes 30 seconds or a minute but has greatly reduced the number of pesky moths inside the house without the use of pesticide or UV bug killers, which are indiscriminant in what they zap. Marcia Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 22:12:54 -0700 (MST) To: From: rsigler@w3az.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live in the Wickenburg area. July & Aug bring a very large number of moths to our entry way with many resting on & around the door. They also collect around other doors as well (shade, cooler temp,less wind, or?). When the door is opened several fly inside even though we try to brush them away. Some of our neighbors use UV bug killers, I'm hoping for some other solution. Thanks From lanna64@cox.net Wed Sep 3 01:44:01 2003 From: lanna64@cox.net (lanna64@cox.net) Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2003 18:44:01 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309030144.h831i1Zr025167@Ag.arizona.edu> I have three hibiscus which were planted about 18 months ago. They were thriving until about three weeks ago. Suddenly, they started to wilt. In three more days they started to turn brown and lost their leaves. What is the cause? Thank you. From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Wed Sep 3 16:49:40 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 09:49:40 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bottle Trees Dying Message-ID: <003e01c3723b$60687040$1831db43@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_003B_01C37200.B1C74960 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Lisa, The problem with your Bottle Trees is that they are receiving inadequate = water. I don't know what kind of soil you have, I suspect it is clay. If = so and you are watering for two hours with a drip system the water is = probably not penetrating more than one foot deep. The entire root = system of your Bottle Trees should be getting water to a depth of three = feet deep, and the root system extends out to the drip line of the tree = and beyond.=20 You should have 6 to 10 drippers depending on the size of the tree and = be running the drippers 6 to 8 hours at a time once every 10 days to two = weeks during summer. A great resourse on watering is a free booklet titled LANDSCAPE WATERING = BY THE NUMBERS available from most nurseries and the Cooperative = Extension. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener @aol.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Wednesday, September 03, 2003 6:41 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bottle Trees (Brachychiton Populneus) Hi, I have three bottle trees in my back yard. I live in nw Tucson. My = problem seems to be that leaves are turning brown and smaller branches = are just falling off. The trees are on a drip with 1 gph emiters that = run for about two hours a couple days a week. Can you please tell me = what the problem is? Are they getting too much water or not enough? = The middle tree is the youngest and it is not growing as fast as the = other two had when they were first planted. Also, the neighbor behind = me had planted a couple of palo verde trees at his fence line that is = only a couple feet from my trees. Is it possible that his trees are = stealing the water for my trees? It seems that these problems started = after his trees were planted. Thank you for your help. Lisa Zeno=20 ------=_NextPart_000_003B_01C37200.B1C74960 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Lisa,
The problem with your Bottle Trees is that they are = receiving=20 inadequate water. I don't know what kind of soil you have, I suspect it = is clay.=20 If so and you are watering for two hours with a drip system the = water  is=20 probably not penetrating more than one foot deep.  The entire root = system=20 of your Bottle Trees should be getting water to a depth of three feet = deep, and=20 the root system extends out to the drip line of the tree and=20 beyond. 
 You should have 6 to 10 drippers depending on = the size=20 of the tree  and be running the drippers 6 to 8 hours at a time = once every=20 10 days to two weeks
 during summer.
A great resourse on watering is a free = booklet=20 titled LANDSCAPE WATERING BY THE NUMBERS available from most nurseries = and the=20 Cooperative Extension.
 
Good luck.
 
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
@aol.com <Msmink8259@aol.com>
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu = <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Date:=20 Wednesday, September 03, 2003 6:41 AM
Subject: = [Arid_gardener]=20 Bottle Trees (Brachychiton Populneus)

Hi,

I have three bottle trees in my back = yard.  I=20 live in nw Tucson.  My problem seems to be that leaves are = turning brown=20 and smaller branches are just falling off.  The trees are on a = drip with=20 1 gph emiters that run for about two hours a couple days a week.  = Can you=20 please tell me what the problem is?  Are they getting too much = water or=20 not enough?  The middle tree is the youngest and it is not = growing as=20 fast as the other two had when they were first planted.  Also, = the=20 neighbor behind me had planted a couple of palo verde trees at his = fence line=20 that is only a couple feet from my trees.  Is it possible that = his trees=20 are stealing the water for my trees?  It seems that these = problems=20 started after his trees were planted.

Thank you for your=20 help.

Lisa Zeno ------=_NextPart_000_003B_01C37200.B1C74960-- From BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu Wed Sep 3 18:03:28 2003 From: BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Wed, 03 Sep 2003 11:03:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] EPA Cancelled Registration for Diazinon Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20030903110209.04e73c20@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_9577471==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed No. 170 Page A-8 Wednesday, September 3, 2003 ISSN 1521-9402 News Pesticides Cancellation of Registration Requirements For Diazinon Sets Stage for Final Phaseout The Environmental Protection Agency has canceled its registration of the organophosphate diazinon, setting the stage for the final phaseout of one of the most widely used home and garden insecticides. The cancellation order, slated for publication Sept. 3, comes nearly three years after a December 2000 EPA risk assessment found the insecticide posed risks "of concern" for residential usage, including health risks to children in post-application settings. The manufacturer of the chemical for residential uses, Syngenta Crop Protection, of Greensboro, N.C., then agreed to begin phasing out the use of the chemical (139 DEN A-8, 7/20/01). The chemical was required to be registered with the agency under the Federal Insecticide, Fungicide, and Rodenticide Act. In May, the company formally asked EPA to cancel all of its diazinon product registrations (DEN A-1, 5/30/03 ). The EPA cancellation order is effective immediately, according to the notice. The insecticide is sold as Spectracide, D.Z.N., Knox-Out, Diazol, and under other trade names. Ken Gordon, a spokesman for Syngenta Crop Protection in Greensboro, N.C., said the company ceased manufacturing diazinon as of June 30. Approximately 80 percent of the product has been sold as granular insecticide, though the cancellation order affects all diazinon products manufactured by the company for such residential uses. Under its agreement with EPA, the existing stocks of the product may continue to be moved through its distribution system until Dec. 31, 2004. "At the end at the end of 2004, the diazinon business, as far as Syngenta is concerned, will be completed," he said. Risk to Agricultural Workers On a somewhat separate track, EPA in September 2002 issued an Interim Reregistration Eligibility Decision that expressed concerns over the risks of exposure to agricultural workers who apply diazinon or work in areas where the chemical has been applied. Approximately 13 million pounds of diazinon are used each year on agricultural sites, where it has been used extensively on almonds and stone fruits, according to EPA. The IRED called for similar cancellations of registrations for the product's agricultural applications, but the decision has yet to be finalized. Both Syngenta and another manufacturer of the chemical, Makhteshim Agan, of New York, informed EPA in 2000 that they would no longer support continued registration of the chemical for some agricultural uses. More information is available by contacting Stephanie Plummer, Special Review and Reregistration Division (7508C), EPA Office of Pesticide Programs, 1200 Pennsylvania Ave. N.W., Washington, D.C. 20460-001; telephone (703) 305-0076; e-mail plummer.stephanie@epa.gov. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert. "The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona." ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ --=====================_9577471==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"   No. 170                                                           Page A-8
   Wednesday, September 3, 2003

   ISSN 1521-9402

                                                       News

   Pesticides
   Cancellation of Registration Requirements
   For Diazinon Sets Stage for Final Phaseout


                    The Environmental Protection Agency has canceled its
                    registration of the organophosphate diazinon, setting
                    the stage for the final phaseout of one of the most
                    widely used home and garden insecticides.

                    The cancellation order, slated for publication Sept.
                    3, comes nearly three years after a December 2000 EPA
                    risk assessment found the insecticide posed risks "of
                    concern" for residential usage, including health risks
                    to children in post-application settings.

                    The manufacturer of the chemical for residential uses,
                    Syngenta Crop Protection, of Greensboro, N.C., then
                    agreed to begin phasing out the use of the chemical
                    (139 DEN A-8, 7/20/01).

                    The chemical was required to be registered with the
                    agency under the Federal Insecticide, Fungicide, and
                    Rodenticide Act. In May, the company formally asked
                    EPA to cancel all of its diazinon product
                    registrations (DEN A-1, 5/30/03 ).

                    The EPA cancellation order is effective immediately,
                    according to the notice.

                    The insecticide is sold as Spectracide, D.Z.N.,
                    Knox-Out, Diazol, and under other trade names.

                    Ken Gordon, a spokesman for Syngenta Crop Protection
                    in Greensboro, N.C., said the company ceased
                    manufacturing diazinon as of June 30. Approximately 80
                    percent of the product has been sold as granular
                    insecticide, though the cancellation order affects all
                    diazinon products manufactured by the company for such
                    residential uses.

                    Under its agreement with EPA, the existing stocks of
                    the product may continue to be moved through its
                    distribution system until Dec. 31, 2004.

                    "At the end at the end of 2004, the diazinon business,
                    as far as Syngenta is concerned, will be completed,"
                    he said.


                                 Risk to Agricultural Workers

                    On a somewhat separate track, EPA in September 2002
                    issued an Interim Reregistration Eligibility Decision
                    that expressed concerns over the risks of exposure to
                    agricultural workers who apply diazinon or work in
                    areas where the chemical has been applied.
                    Approximately 13 million pounds of diazinon are used
                    each year on agricultural sites, where it has been
                    used extensively on almonds and stone fruits,
                    according to EPA.

                    The IRED called for similar cancellations of
                    registrations for the product's agricultural
                    applications, but the decision has yet to be
                    finalized. Both Syngenta and another manufacturer of
                    the chemical, Makhteshim Agan, of New York, informed
                    EPA in 2000 that they would no longer support
                    continued registration of the chemical for some
                    agricultural uses.

                    More information is available by contacting Stephanie
                    Plummer, Special Review and Reregistration Division
                    (7508C), EPA Office of Pesticide Programs, 1200
                    Pennsylvania Ave. N.W., Washington, D.C. 20460-001;
                    telephone (703) 305-0076; e-mail
                    plummer.stephanie@epa.gov.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ  85040-8807

Phone:  (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax:  (602) 470-8092
email:  BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/
http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens

Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program
To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert.

"The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona."
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


--=====================_9577471==_.ALT-- From fittedshirt@hotmail.com Wed Sep 3 20:53:21 2003 From: fittedshirt@hotmail.com (Thomas Homans) Date: Wed, 03 Sep 2003 14:53:21 -0600 Subject: [Arid_gardener] browning bird of paradise Message-ID: I have 2 Mexican bird of paradises, both are browning from the bottom up, is this an indication of too much or not enough water? I thought these were relatively low water usage plants, but maybe I've watered them too little. thanks tom _________________________________________________________________ Help protect your PC: Get a free online virus scan at McAfee.com. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 From chseter.L.gandy@boeing.com Wed Sep 3 22:29:07 2003 From: chseter.L.gandy@boeing.com (chseter.L.gandy@boeing.com) Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2003 15:29:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309032229.h83MT7Zr012213@Ag.arizona.edu> I purchased a piece of property in Strawberry, Arizona. There is an apple tree on the property and I would like to know how to care for it. Thanx, Chet From pperkins@whpacific.com Thu Sep 4 16:51:46 2003 From: pperkins@whpacific.com (pperkins@whpacific.com) Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2003 09:51:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309041651.h84GpkZr019198@Ag.arizona.edu> I have recently made jam from some wild plums that I picked in the high desert of Eastern Oregon. What is the best method to get a tree to grom from the plum pits? Thank you for you time. From kyoung@Ag.arizona.edu Thu Sep 4 17:11:41 2003 From: kyoung@Ag.arizona.edu (Kelly Young) Date: Thu, 04 Sep 2003 10:11:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Perennial Divide 2003 Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20030904094231.00ce7558@cals.arizona.edu> --=====================_8618512==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed PERENNIAL DIVIDE 2003 AT THE FALL GARDEN FESTIVAL Is a particular plant overrunning your garden but you cannot bear to dig them up and throw them out? Then please take part in our Great Perennial Divide. The Perennial Divide allows you to place your prolific plants in loving homes, all the while stocking your own yard with new and unusual specimens. The Perennial Divide works. 1. Bring in plants from your yard; they can be seedlings, pups, cuttings, or offsets (potted and labeled). 2. You are given credit towards plants that Master Gardeners and other members of the community brought in. It is a great way to diversify your yard fast on a tight budget. Start propagating and rooting cuttings now for trade at the Perennial Divide. (no Aloe barbadensis, please) Bring your potted, rooted plants that are clearly labelled with the following information: * scientific name * common name * landscape or culinary use * flower color and season * light requirements * irrigation requirements * special cultural requirements The Garden Festival will be held on Saturday, October 25, 2003, from 8:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. in the courtyard at Metro Tech High School, 1900 West Thomas Road in Phoenix. The event is free and everyone is welcome. For more information please e-mail Stacy Pratt: pratty@mindspring.com or call 602-470-1556 extension 1017. --=====================_8618512==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

PERENNIAL DIVIDE 2003
AT
THE FALL GARDEN FESTIVAL


Is a particular plant overrunning your garden but you cannot bear to dig them up and throw them out?  Then please take part in our Great Perennial Divide. The Perennial Divide allows you to place your prolific plants in loving homes, all the while stocking your own yard with new and unusual specimens.  The Perennial Divide works.  1.  Bring in plants from your yard; they can be seedlings, pups, cuttings, or offsets (potted and labeled).   2. You are given credit towards plants that Master Gardeners and other members of the community brought in.  It is a great way to diversify your yard fast on a tight budget.

Start propagating and rooting cuttings now for trade at the Perennial Divide.
(no Aloe barbadensis, please)

Bring your potted, rooted plants that are clearly labelled with the following information:
  •         scientific name
  •         common name
  •         landscape or culinary use
  •         flower color and season
  •         light requirements
  •         irrigation requirements
  •         special cultural requirements



The Garden Festival will be held on Saturday, October 25, 2003, from 8:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m.  in the courtyard at Metro Tech High School, 1900 West Thomas Road in Phoenix.  The event is free and everyone is welcome.

For more information please e-mail Stacy Pratt:  pratty@mindspring.com or call 602-470-1556 extension 1017.





--=====================_8618512==_.ALT-- From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Thu Sep 4 21:26:48 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2003 14:26:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plums in the Low Desert Message-ID: <001901c3732b$41ac3a60$81a9db43@ibmbna6040> If you live in the low desert (Phoenix area) and want to plant a plum tree for fruit I would suggest against doing so. In order for plums to bear fruit colder weather than what we have here in the low desert is required. And I'm sure that the high desert of Oregon has colder weather than here during the winter. Even if you do not care about planting a plum tree for the fruit the plum trees do not do well here in the low desert. If I haven't discouraged you with the above you will find info on plant propagation in the Master Gardener Manual chapter on Plant Propagation found on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/ Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: pperkins@whpacific.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Thursday, September 04, 2003 10:27 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I have recently made jam from some wild plums that I picked in the high desert of Eastern Oregon. What is the best method to get a tree to grom from the plum pits? >Thank you for you time. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From www.facilities@nativeresources.com Thu Sep 4 21:31:09 2003 From: www.facilities@nativeresources.com (www.facilities@nativeresources.com) Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2003 14:31:09 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309042131.h84LV9Zr026288@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a nursery full of native mesquites and some are starting to decline I notice some holes in my trunks and a lot of sap. what kind of bug attacks native mesquites. From Tigerlillydun@aol.com Fri Sep 5 05:26:27 2003 From: Tigerlillydun@aol.com (Tigerlillydun@aol.com) Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2003 01:26:27 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] growing palo verdes from seed Message-ID: <73.347bd4b0.2c897883@aol.com> -------------------------------1062739587 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I understand that there is a way to grow palo verde trees from seed. I have pods from both the green variety as well as the blue. So far I've had no luck. Are there any hints you can share? Thanks, Liane -------------------------------1062739587 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
  &nbs= p;  I understand that there is a way to grow palo verde trees from seed= .  I have pods from both the green variety as well as the blue.  S= o far I've had no luck.  Are there any hints you can share?=
 
Thanks,
 
Liane
-------------------------------1062739587-- From deloughery@cox.net Fri Sep 5 04:05:21 2003 From: deloughery@cox.net (deloughery@cox.net) Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2003 21:05:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309050405.h8545LZr027622@Ag.arizona.edu> I am new to Arizona, so please forgive my ignorance about living in the desert. My question concerns the use of mulch or wood chips around trees. I know that mulch helps protect the tree roots and slows water evaporation. But I have also read that scorpions live in decaying wood. What is the level of risk that I am creating a habitat for scorpions and other unwanted creatures by mulching around trees in my yard? Thanks for any guidance. From je1s@msn.com Fri Sep 5 02:25:06 2003 From: je1s@msn.com (je1s@msn.com) Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2003 19:25:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309050225.h852P6Zr014076@Ag.arizona.edu> I had a 7 year old desert spoon. The plant was not showing any overt signs of stress. After the last storm, I found the center sworl tipped on its side. I was able to pull each spoon of the plant easily from its place in the sworl. The inside of the spoons had a dark brown coloration and an oder. The plant was never over-watered. The roots seemed fine and showed no indication of grub or pest infestation. And the spoons themselves looked healthy. Could this plant have suffered from a toxic substance? (There has been some minor vandalism in the neighborhood.) Also a seven year-old acacia saligna looked fine on Saturday, and the following Monday all the leaves were desicated and brittle. Again, no signs of soil pests. What's going on? Thanks for your responses. Also, there are other desert spoons and acacias on the property, and they're fine. From dfischer@fnfinc.com Fri Sep 5 16:31:35 2003 From: dfischer@fnfinc.com (dfischer@fnfinc.com) Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2003 09:31:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309051631.h85GVZZr006585@Ag.arizona.edu> I have left a phone message, but no one has called back. My 20+ year old Arizona Ash looks very healthy, but individual branches are wilting and dieing. Do you know what might be happening and how I can treat? I live in Phx and the tree is flood irrigated with the yard. From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Fri Sep 5 17:47:36 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2003 10:47:36 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Scorpions in wood chip mulch Message-ID: <004701c373d5$cc2f8340$f231db43@ibmbna6040> Yes, scorpions will hide in wood chip mulch but they only come out at night. Scorpions are solitary creatures and do not nest together. They do not enter homes unless their envirement is disturbed by construction or tree removal. They also are a plus in that the feed on undesireable insects such as crickets and cockroaches. I take care of a church grounds where I have mulched with wood chips at least 50 trees, some of them adjoining a playground and in 10 years no one has observed a scorpion. The benefits of mulch around trees are great,such as cutting down on water usage, keeping the tree roots cooler in summer, eliminating most weeds and as the wood chips break down providing food for the trees. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --Original Message----- From: deloughery@cox.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Friday, September 05, 2003 7:04 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I am new to Arizona, so please forgive my ignorance about living in the desert. My question concerns the use of mulch or wood chips around trees. I know that mulch helps protect the tree roots and slows water evaporation. But I have also read that scorpions live in decaying wood. What is the level of risk that I am creating a habitat for scorpions and other unwanted creatures by mulching around trees in my yard? Thanks for any guidance. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From cstephens@infinet-is.com Fri Sep 5 19:06:43 2003 From: cstephens@infinet-is.com (Charles Stephens) Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2003 12:06:43 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200309051631.h85GVZZr006585@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <001901c373e0$d9166d20$1bda13d8@default> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C373A6.2BAB0720 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Sorry that no one has answered your phone message. The folks who reply = to phone messages have been swamped lately. I have been having the same problem with our old ash trees. Some of our = 30+ year old trees have been in decline for at least 10 years, but are = still providing lots of shade. I have had some conversations with Dr. = Mary Olsen, U of A Extension Plant Pathologist, about it; and she says = that no one knows what causes the problem or how to treat it. All that = she could suggest was to make sure the trees are being watered and = fertilized properly. Since you have flood irrigation, it is unlikely = that the trees need more water. I would suggest fertilizing with a = complete fertilizer following the directions on the bag. Charlie Stephens Master Gardener Phoenix ----- Original Message -----=20 From: dfischer@fnfinc.com=20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Friday, September 05, 2003 9:31 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have left a phone message, but no one has called back. My 20+ year old Arizona Ash looks very healthy, but individual = branches are wilting and dieing. =20 Do you know what might be happening and how I can treat? I live in Phx and the tree is flood irrigated with the yard. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener ------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C373A6.2BAB0720 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Sorry that no one has answered your = phone message.=20 The folks who reply to phone messages have been swamped = lately.
 
I have been having the same problem = with our old=20 ash trees.  Some of our 30+ year old trees have been in decline for = at=20 least 10 years, but are still providing lots of shade. I have had some=20 conversations with Dr. Mary Olsen, U of A Extension Plant Pathologist, = about it;=20 and she says that no one knows what causes the problem or how to treat = it. All=20 that she could suggest was to make sure the trees are being watered and=20 fertilized properly. Since you have flood irrigation, it is unlikely = that the=20 trees need more water. I would suggest fertilizing with a complete = fertilizer=20 following the directions on the bag.
 
Charlie Stephens
Master=20 Gardener
Phoenix
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 dfischer@fnfinc.com
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu =
Sent: Friday, September 05, = 2003 9:31=20 AM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Question from=20 Home-Hort WWW page

I have left a phone message, but no one has called = back.
My=20 20+ year old Arizona Ash looks very healthy, but individual branches = are=20 wilting and dieing. 
Do you know what might be happening and = how I=20 can treat?
I live in Phx and the tree is flood irrigated with the=20 = yard.

_______________________________________________
Arid_gard= ener=20 mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu=
http://Ag.A= rizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C373A6.2BAB0720-- From Jhedgpeth@aol.com Fri Sep 5 19:36:11 2003 From: Jhedgpeth@aol.com (Jhedgpeth@aol.com) Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2003 15:36:11 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: <42.3d3f5788.2c8a3fab@aol.com> -------------------------------1062790571 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have a yellow/orang fungus in my garden soil. I have tried captian and ferti-lome ( tetrachloroiso-phthalonitrite ) neither one affects the fungus. I have search fungi on line and I have not found a solution to the problem. I would appreciate any help I can get. thx Jay -------------------------------1062790571 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I have a yellow/orang fungus in my garden soil. I have tried captian an= d ferti-lome ( tetrachloroiso-phthalonitrite ) neither one affects the=20= fungus. I have search fungi on line and I have not found a solution to the p= roblem. I would appreciate any help I can get.
thx Jay
-------------------------------1062790571-- From deloughery@cox.net Fri Sep 5 19:07:46 2003 From: deloughery@cox.net (Paul Deloughery) Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2003 14:07:46 -0500 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Scorpions in wood chip mulch References: <004701c373d5$cc2f8340$f231db43@ibmbna6040> Message-ID: <001601c373e0$fe38a6e0$d50c6244@ph.cox.net> Thanks for the response. I have not notice many homeowners mulch around trees in Arizona. At least now I know it is a good idea. Paul Deloughery ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Cc: Sent: Friday, September 05, 2003 12:47 PM Subject: Scorpions in wood chip mulch > Yes, scorpions will hide in wood chip mulch but they only come out at night. > Scorpions are solitary creatures and do not nest together. They do not enter > homes unless their envirement is disturbed by construction or tree removal. > They also are a plus in that the feed on undesireable insects such as > crickets and cockroaches. > I take care of a church grounds where I have mulched with wood chips at > least 50 trees, some of them adjoining a playground and in 10 years no one > has observed a scorpion. > The benefits of mulch around trees are great,such as cutting down on water > usage, keeping the tree roots cooler in summer, eliminating most weeds and > as the wood chips break down providing food for the trees. > > Good luck. > > Rod McKusick > Master Gardener > > --Original Message----- > From: deloughery@cox.net > To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu > Date: Friday, September 05, 2003 7:04 AM > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > > >I am new to Arizona, so please forgive my ignorance about living in the > desert. My question concerns the use of mulch or wood chips around trees. I > know that mulch helps protect the tree roots and slows water evaporation. > But I have also read that scorpions live in decaying wood. What is the level > of risk that I am creating a habitat for scorpions and other unwanted > creatures by mulching around trees in my yard? Thanks for any guidance. > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Arid_gardener mailing list > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Fri Sep 5 22:17:46 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2003 15:17:46 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Desert spoon problem Message-ID: <004301c373fb$8a31a240$2aa9db43@ibmbna6040> I've not heard of the problem before so this is a guess. Since the symptoms are similiar to what the agave weevil causes on agaves I suspect that the agave weevil has attacked the desert spoon by chewing on the leaves and has transmitted a bacterial rot to the spoon. If this is the case you can help to stop the weevil next year by applying an insecticide such as diazanon to the ground around the spoons during May and June. You might be wise to purchase the diazanon or Spectricide now since it is being taken off the market soon. The symptoms on your Acacia saligna sound like those of Texas Root Rot. If so there is little that can be done to save the tree now. You can confirm the diagnosis by taking a root sample (8 to 10 inches long by finger diameter) to U. of A., Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for a lab test. Do not wash the root sample, placed in a plastic bag and refrigerate. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener Original Message----- From: je1s@msn.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Friday, September 05, 2003 7:08 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I had a 7 year old desert spoon. The plant was not showing any overt signs of stress. >After the last storm, I found the center sworl tipped on its side. I was able to pull each spoon of the plant easily from its place in the sworl. >The inside of the spoons had a dark brown coloration and an oder. >The plant was never over-watered. > The roots seemed fine and showed no indication of grub or pest infestation. And the spoons themselves looked healthy. >Could this plant have suffered from a toxic substance? (There has been some minor vandalism in the neighborhood.) >Also a seven year-old acacia saligna looked fine on Saturday, and the following Monday all the leaves were desicated and brittle. >Again, no signs of soil pests. >What's going on? >Thanks for your responses. >Also, there are other desert spoons and acacias on the property, and they're fine. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From bunkie@stevensleinweber.com Sat Sep 6 16:54:11 2003 From: bunkie@stevensleinweber.com (Bunkie McBride) Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2003 09:54:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] New house, old citrus Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0038_01C3745C.D270FFE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit We bought a house in Queen Creek last year that has 4 orange trees. One of the trees has never been pruned “up” and looks like the trees in an active citrus farm (lots of vegetation down to the ground). It’s nearly impossible to get “under” the tree to prune dead branches and thin. Other circumstances that may impact the tree are: (1) we have irrigation and will use that for watering, (2) we have two horses that will be brought to the property within 30 – 45 days (waiting for the new pasture grass to mature). Questions we have: 1. When can heavy pruning occur and how much is allowable to keep the tree from going into shock? 2. We assume exposing the trunk bark will cause the bark to burn. Is typical tree paint all that’s required to protect? 3. When is the proper time to feed the citrus trees and what is the proper product / quantity to use? 4. We also assume the tree will have to be protected from the horses. Do you know if horses are likely to eat the leaves, etc.? Thank you so much, Bunkie ------=_NextPart_000_0038_01C3745C.D270FFE0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

We = bought a house in Queen Creek last year that has 4 orange trees.  One of the trees has never been pruned = “up” and looks like the trees in an active citrus farm (lots of vegetation down to the ground).  It’s = nearly impossible to get “under” the tree to prune dead branches and thin.  Other circumstances that may impact the tree are: (1) = we have irrigation and will use that for watering, (2) we have two horses = that will be brought to the property within 30 – 45 days (waiting for = the new pasture grass to mature).

 

Questions we have: =

 

1.       When can = heavy pruning occur and how much is allowable to keep the tree from going into shock? =

2.       We assume = exposing the trunk bark will cause the bark to burn.  Is typical tree paint all that’s required to protect? =

3.       When is the = proper time to feed the citrus trees and what is the proper product / quantity to = use?

4.       We also = assume the tree will have to be protected from the horses.  Do you know if horses are likely to eat the leaves, = etc.?

 

Thank = you so much, Bunkie

 

 

------=_NextPart_000_0038_01C3745C.D270FFE0-- From neffkiwiboy@aol.com Sat Sep 6 16:09:15 2003 From: neffkiwiboy@aol.com (neffkiwiboy@aol.com) Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2003 09:09:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309061609.h86G9FZr016802@Ag.arizona.edu> I live in Mesa. Is it possible to grow columbines or peonies here? From Weilerstr@aol.com Sat Sep 6 16:01:01 2003 From: Weilerstr@aol.com (Weilerstr@aol.com) Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2003 12:01:01 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: <6f.3c4cc839.2c8b5ebd@aol.com> --part1_6f.3c4cc839.2c8b5ebd_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit We had three 35' Ash trees removed, which had been planted in one hole. Will the remaining roots keep on growing for a while? Thank you. Inge --part1_6f.3c4cc839.2c8b5ebd_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable We had three 35' Ash trees removed, which had been pla= nted in one hole. Will the remaining roots keep on growing for a while? Than= k you. Inge --part1_6f.3c4cc839.2c8b5ebd_boundary-- From dmjc54@msn.com Sat Sep 6 15:50:26 2003 From: dmjc54@msn.com (dmjc54@msn.com) Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2003 08:50:26 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309061550.h86FoQZr015469@Ag.arizona.edu> what is the best way to control pearl scales in yard? what products can you recomend ? thanks David From PERFLOWERS@aol.com Sun Sep 7 02:03:16 2003 From: PERFLOWERS@aol.com (PERFLOWERS@aol.com) Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2003 22:03:16 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <115.28659e12.2c8bebe4@aol.com> I have never seen peonies growing here. I grew a yellow columbine for a while. In fact, it grew to be quite a pest as it kept volunteering, so I finally got rid of all of them. Val From celadoncove@cox.net Sat Sep 6 23:20:55 2003 From: celadoncove@cox.net (celadoncove@cox.net) Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2003 16:20:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309062320.h86NKtZr021539@Ag.arizona.edu> I am trying to find some flowering trees that will do well in Chandler. Not your run-of-the mill stuff. I've found a few that sound like they might be OK, but I can't tell for sure: Stenocarpus sinuatus (Firewheel Tree); Delonix regia (Royal Poinciana); Spathodea campanulata (African Tulip tree); Xanthorrhoea australis (Australian Grass tree); Contorted Mulberry; Port Wine banana shrub. I've looked on the internet and it's difficult to tell which, if any, would work here. Also, will any of the Canna varieties do well here, or only certain types (i.e. Canna Tropicana)? Thanks. From mnip@juno.com Sun Sep 7 22:05:40 2003 From: mnip@juno.com (mnip@juno.com) Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2003 15:05:40 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309072205.h87M5eZr026045@Ag.arizona.edu> Can you grow berries here? From micheledesigns@yahoo.com Sun Sep 7 21:21:25 2003 From: micheledesigns@yahoo.com (micheledesigns@yahoo.com) Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2003 14:21:25 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309072121.h87LLPZr022429@Ag.arizona.edu> I am interested in planting raspberries in my backyard here in Scottsdale. Will they grow? When do I plant them if they grow here, and what type should I buy? Is there a good local source for this? I am interested in your replies. Thanks for reading this. Michele From hfortin@cox.net Mon Sep 8 00:08:44 2003 From: hfortin@cox.net (hfortin@cox.net) Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2003 17:08:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309080008.h8808iZr008065@Ag.arizona.edu> New gardening in Az.(Maricopa County)would like to find information as to what vegetables grow the best and when to plant them. Is it to hot to plant any vegetables now or should I just be preparing my soil.\ Thank you in advance. From jhedgpeth@aol.com Mon Sep 8 04:32:07 2003 From: jhedgpeth@aol.com (jhedgpeth@aol.com) Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2003 21:32:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309080432.h884W7Zr003361@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a yellow/orange fungus in my soil how do I getv rid of it. j From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net Mon Sep 8 17:04:53 2003 From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2003 10:04:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Fall Vegetable Garden References: <200309080008.h8808iZr008065@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000b01c3762b$586bd8c0$ac56530c@olin> Cool season vegetables can be grown by direct seeding, sometimes in August (you may need to shade the seedlings) or in September and early October. . After that, success is better with transplants for leafy crops but root crops do not transplant as well. Most of the vegetables that can be grown successfully during our cool fall through early spring season are of the leafy variety, cabbage related varieties, and edible roots that can survive a light frost. For a planting calendar see the Master Gardener Manual at: http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/vegetable/regions13.html Use region 1 for the low desert. For general vegetable gardening information see: http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/vegetable/index.html http://home.att.net/~millero/DesertGardening/allveg.htm Right now is also a good time to prepare the soil. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > New gardening in Az.(Maricopa County)would like to find information as to what vegetables grow the best and when to plant them. Is it to hot to plant any vegetables now or should I just be preparing my soil. From plcgendel01@cox.net Mon Sep 8 17:20:06 2003 From: plcgendel01@cox.net (plcgendel01@cox.net) Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2003 10:20:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309081720.h88HK6Zr022096@Ag.arizona.edu> Pine tree/needles and toxin make it nearly impossible to grow Bermuda grass beneath (Rye is easy). Last year, I cut down several pine trees, however, this summer - still no Bermuda grass growth - completely bare. 1. Is there anything to be added to the soil to fix the toxins? 2. Should I remove the top 1-2 inches of soil and either plant new seed or sod? 3. It's probably too late to use new seed - how about sod? 4. Rye will be planted in mid Oct. - should I wait to next year to fix the problem? 5. Other suggestions re getting Bermuda grass to grow in this former pine tree area? Thanks, Paul From dopeyleam@msn.com Tue Sep 9 14:20:40 2003 From: dopeyleam@msn.com (dopeyleam@msn.com) Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 07:20:40 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309091420.h89EKeZr010788@Ag.arizona.edu> I have many mushrooms growing in my lawn, what is the cause and what if anything should I do about it? thank you From keithsue@san.rr.com Tue Sep 9 14:32:32 2003 From: keithsue@san.rr.com (Keith & Sue Colestock) Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 07:32:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] How much water for an African Sumac in a large clay pot? Message-ID: <000801c376df$3cfffda0$a1a7a118@san.rr.com> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C376A4.87DB0DA0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Help! We have a new 10-12' African Sumac in our courtyard in a very = large clay pot. We got a healthy specimen from the nursery 2 weeks ago = and it was transplanted into the pot with potting soil and gravel on the = bottom. The courtyard has a southern exposure, with about 5-6 hours of = hot sun in the middle of the day. We live in San Diego, inland where it = is dry and hot. A couple days ago the tree began to drop lots of leaves, = but the leaves are not brown or yellow. How much water should we give = the tree if it is in a clay pot (the roots will stay small and compact = in the pot). We were told to water frequently because the clay pot sucks = moisture from the soil, but we also know the African Sumac is suppose to = be drought tolerant. In the last 2 weeks the tree has been watered by = hand every 3-4 days -- a deep watering until it runs out the bottom of = the pot. P.S. The pot is elevated off the cement on pot feet. Please = help ... we are fairly new gardeners with little experience and don't = want to lose this beautiful tree. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C376A4.87DB0DA0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Help! We have a new 10-12' African = Sumac in our=20 courtyard in a very large clay pot. We got a healthy specimen from = the=20 nursery 2 weeks ago and it was transplanted into the pot with = potting soil=20 and gravel on the bottom. The courtyard has a southern exposure, with = about 5-6=20 hours of hot sun in the middle of the day. We live in San Diego, inland = where it=20 is dry and hot. A couple days ago the tree began to drop lots of = leaves,=20 but the leaves are not brown or yellow. How much water should we give = the tree=20 if it is in a clay pot (the roots will stay small and compact in the = pot). We=20 were told to water frequently because the clay pot sucks moisture from = the soil,=20 but we also know the African Sumac is suppose to be drought tolerant. In = the=20 last 2 weeks the tree has been watered by hand every 3-4 days -- a deep = watering=20 until it runs out the bottom of the pot. P.S. The pot is elevated off = the cement=20 on pot feet. Please help ... we are fairly new gardeners with little = experience=20 and don't want to lose this beautiful tree.
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C376A4.87DB0DA0-- From krqloser@yahoo.com Tue Sep 9 17:55:28 2003 From: krqloser@yahoo.com (Andre Mischel) Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 10:55:28 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] ryegrass prior to bermuda Message-ID: <20030909175528.76002.qmail@web11106.mail.yahoo.com> I am landscaping my new home but it is too late in the year to seed bermuda grass. If I seed ryegrass now will I still be able to grow bermuda grass successfully in the spring, or will I need to kill the rygrass before-hand? Or should I just stay away from this method entirely and be patient to plant bermuda in the spring? Thank you for any help, Andre (phoenix, az) __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com From ldigiacomo@cox.net Tue Sep 9 17:30:11 2003 From: ldigiacomo@cox.net (ldigiacomo@cox.net) Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 10:30:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309091730.h89HUBZr020074@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like to attract lizards to my city yard (to help control the crickets.) Any suggestions on what environment lizards like? Thanks, Laura From carole.flores@asu.edu Tue Sep 9 21:31:16 2003 From: carole.flores@asu.edu (Carole Flores) Date: Tue, 09 Sep 2003 14:31:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] remove me from mailing list please Message-ID: <01c201c37719$c3300de0$ad65db81@tonysmachine> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --Boundary_(ID_BG7YEtUZ3sMXwkjFqEkcZQ) Content-type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable Hi could you please remove me from the mailing list? Thanks! Carole Flores= --Boundary_(ID_BG7YEtUZ3sMXwkjFqEkcZQ) Content-type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable
Hi could you please remove me from the = mailing=20 list?  Thanks!
Carole = Flores
--Boundary_(ID_BG7YEtUZ3sMXwkjFqEkcZQ)-- From kthmart@cableaz.com Tue Sep 9 21:13:58 2003 From: kthmart@cableaz.com (kthmart@cableaz.com) Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 14:13:58 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309092113.h89LDwZr009190@Ag.arizona.edu> I am growing, (exceptionally well) snail vine on the western exposure of my house...there is almost as much vine on the ground as on the trellis...when I trimmed the 'ground'vine, much of the climbing vine died. I will want to clear much of the vine away to decrease the insect population between the vine and the house...When is the best time to do this AND, how??? Thank you.KM From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Tue Sep 9 22:22:33 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 15:22:33 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] ryegrass prior to bermuda Message-ID: <005801c37720$df4362a0$d231db43@ibmbna6040> Andre, Yes it is too late to plant bermuda grass this year unles you were to use sod that has been overseeded with rye grass. Should you decide to plant rye this fall you will need to wait until the rye has died or kill it with an herbicide before seeding with bermuda. If next spring is as cool as it was this spring you would have to wait a while before planting bermuda. I still had rye that was green in July this year which didn't allow the bermuda to grow very well. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --Original Message----- From: Andre Mischel To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Tuesday, September 09, 2003 1:24 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] ryegrass prior to bermuda >I am landscaping my new home but it is too late in the >year to seed bermuda grass. If I seed ryegrass now >will I still be able to grow bermuda grass >successfully in the spring, or will I need to kill the >rygrass before-hand? Or should I just stay away from >this method entirely and be patient to plant bermuda >in the spring? > >Thank you for any help, > >Andre (phoenix, az) > >__________________________________ >Do you Yahoo!? >Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software >http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From ainsley@azorchids.com Tue Sep 9 20:51:07 2003 From: ainsley@azorchids.com (Ainsley LaCour) Date: Tue, 09 Sep 2003 13:51:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Desert Garden Institute: Tree Pruning and Care Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20030909135017.02248608@cals.arizona.edu> --=====================_21851951==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed The Desert Garden Institute Public Classes Taught by Master Gardeners presents Tree Pruning and Care Saturday, September 27, 2003 9:00 a.m. - 12:00 p.m. Instructor: Laurel Reader Cost: $20 Public, No charge for Master Gardeners To register: 602-470-8086 x 823 ainsley@azorchids.com Come and learn how to protect your investment. Learn the ins and outs of selecting, planting, staking and maintaining a structurally beautiful addition to your landscape. Avoid the hazards associated with improper pruning practices. Tell your friends! --=====================_21851951==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
The Desert Garden Institute
Public Classes Taught by Master Gardeners
presents
 
Tree Pruning and Care
Saturday, September 27, 2003
9:00 a.m. - 12:00 p.m.
Instructor:  Laurel Reader
 
Cost:  $20 Public, No charge for Master Gardeners
To register:  602-470-8086 x 823
ainsley@azorchids.com
 
Come and learn how to protect your investment.  Learn the ins and outs of selecting, planting, staking and maintaining a structurally beautiful addition to your landscape.  Avoid the hazards associated with improper pruning practices.  Tell your friends!
 --=====================_21851951==_.ALT-- From TylerStorey@aol.com Tue Sep 9 21:09:57 2003 From: TylerStorey@aol.com (by way of Lucy Bradley ) Date: Tue, 09 Sep 2003 14:09:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] [MG] Urban Plant Care Classes Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20030909140950.0289f3d0@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_9061259==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Two great courses in Urban Plant Care are being offered this Fall at Glendale Community College, and there's still plenty of time to register. The classes are being taught by George Hull, who is in charge of new plant introductions for Mountain States Wholesale Nursery and also teaches in the school of Planning and Landscape Architecture at Arizona State University. He's also a terrific and engaging teacher with years of professional experience in desert-adapted plants, so if you want to increase your knowledge, these are great classes to take. AGS192AB is all about the maintenance of urban plants, including irrigation, pruning, and preventive maintenance. AGS192AC will focus on diagnosing and curing urban plant problems, including diseases, insects, and natural controls. Each class is one credit and meets Tuesday and Thursday evenings from 5 to 7:50pm. AB meets for 5 weeks from September 30 through October 30; AC meets from November 4 through December 4. You can register on-line at www.gc.maricopa.edu, or by calling 623-845-3333. If you have any questions, let me know at tylerstorey@aol.com. --=====================_9061259==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Two great courses in Urban Plant Care are being offered this Fall at Glendale Community College, and there's still plenty of time to register. 
 
The classes are being taught by George Hull, who is in charge of new plant introductions for Mountain States Wholesale Nursery and also teaches in the school of Planning and Landscape Architecture at Arizona State University.  He's also a terrific and engaging teacher with years of professional experience in desert-adapted plants, so if you want to increase your knowledge, these are great classes to take. 
 
AGS192AB is all about the maintenance of urban plants, including irrigation, pruning, and preventive maintenance.
 
AGS192AC will focus on diagnosing and curing urban plant problems, including diseases, insects, and natural controls. 
 
Each class is one credit and meets Tuesday and Thursday evenings from 5 to 7:50pm.  AB meets for 5 weeks from September 30 through October 30; AC meets from November 4 through December 4. 
 
You can register on-line at www.gc.maricopa.edu, or by calling 623-845-3333. 
 
If you have any questions, let me know at tylerstorey@aol.com. 
--=====================_9061259==_.ALT-- From jfoster@ccrtc.com Tue Sep 9 20:16:17 2003 From: jfoster@ccrtc.com (Josephine Foster) Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 15:16:17 -0500 Subject: [Arid_gardener] night blooming cereus Message-ID: <000801c3770f$3b191460$d1ae84d1@ccrtc.com> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C376E5.50BC1E40 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have a large night blooming cereus, that was given to me, It has never = bloomed in the years I have owned it, but did bloom prior to this. It did have some buds on it this year, then they dried up and fell off. Should I place the plant in any particular place in the house when I = bring it inside, should I replant it, does it need any sort of plant = food ? I live in Indiana and it has to be brought in during the winter months. = I usually bring it in the end of Sept. It has several buds on it now, = Will I lose them if I move it inside ? Thank you, J. Foster ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C376E5.50BC1E40 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I have a large night blooming cereus, = that was=20 given to me, It has never bloomed in the years I have owned it, but did = bloom=20 prior to this.
It did have some buds on it this year, = then they=20 dried up and fell off.
Should I place the plant in any = particular place in=20 the house when I bring it inside, should I replant it, does it need any = sort of=20 plant food ?
I live in Indiana and it has to be = brought in=20 during the winter months. I usually bring it in the end of Sept. It has = several=20 buds on it now, Will I lose them if I move it inside ?
Thank you,
J. Foster

------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C376E5.50BC1E40-- From rosesable@webtv.net Wed Sep 10 16:27:23 2003 From: rosesable@webtv.net (rosesable@webtv.net) Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 09:27:23 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309101627.h8AGRMZr022919@Ag.arizona.edu> the oranges on my tree are splitting and falling off???? any idea why ?? thanks From pclay@Ag.arizona.edu Wed Sep 10 15:38:55 2003 From: pclay@Ag.arizona.edu (Patrick Clay) Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 08:38:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: White grapes In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20030910081804.00b1bbe0@ag.arizona.edu> Mr. Gilbert I have referred your question to the Maricopa County Master Gardeners. Master Gardeners please send response to Mort Gilbert At 10:15 PM 9/9/2003, you wrote: >I have had to cut back my grape vines this afternoon. What I need to know is >should I cut the actual vines back to the ground or how far do I cut them >back. I had white bugs on the vines. Yes I sprayed then with a solution >of dish detergent, to no avail. What have I done wrong? > >Thanks for your help. > >Mort Gilbert >mgilbert3@cox.net Patrick A. Clay Extension Agent, Field Crops Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Office: (602) 470-8086 ext. 313 Fax: (602) 470-8092 Mobile: (602) 677-9738 From BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu Tue Sep 9 23:10:02 2003 From: BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Tue, 09 Sep 2003 16:10:02 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] How do you get rid of Nut Sedge Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20030909160839.028a0fd0@ag.arizona.edu> Please reply to >Email: rlwest@srpnet.com >City: Chandler State: AZ >Country: USA >Comment: Question about nut grass: what would you recommend to get rid of >this? I have purchased different products and it still keeps taking over >my yard. Any suggestions?Thanks for your help! From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Tue Sep 9 23:22:47 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 16:22:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tree roots Message-ID: <00a901c37729$4ac69a80$d231db43@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00A6_01C376EE.9B18E5A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable If the trees were alive when they were removed the roots will keep on = growing. Rod -----Original Message----- From: Weilerstr@aol.com To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Saturday, September 06, 2003 12:49 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) We had three 35' Ash trees removed, which had been planted in one = hole. Will the remaining roots keep on growing for a while? Thank you. = Inge=20 ------=_NextPart_000_00A6_01C376EE.9B18E5A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
If the trees were alive when they were removed the = roots will=20 keep on growing.
 
Rod
-----Original = Message-----
From:=20 Weilerstr@aol.com <Weilerstr@aol.com>
To: = Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= =20 <Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= >
Date:=20 Saturday, September 06, 2003 12:49 PM
Subject: = [Arid_gardener]=20 (no subject)

We had three 35' Ash trees = removed, which=20 had been planted in one hole. Will the remaining roots keep on growing = for a=20 while? Thank you. Inge ------=_NextPart_000_00A6_01C376EE.9B18E5A0-- From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Tue Sep 9 23:19:27 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 16:19:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pearl Scale Message-ID: <009301c37728$d3d5b0a0$d231db43@ibmbna6040> David, The following letter gives you as much info as is available on the control of pearl scale. Good luck. Rod Pearl scale are tiny soil borne insects that attach themselves to the roots
of hybrid Bermuda grass used as lawns in the Southwest.  While in the
"pearl" stage the insect is protected by the hard covering that surrounds
it.  It is only when the insects are in the "crawler" stage and unprotected
that they are vulnerable to any means of control.  Treatments should be
applied from May 15 to the end of June.

Symptoms of pearl scale damage appear on actively growing Bermuda hybrid
lawns.  Generally, small circular patches of dead grass are the first
indication that these insects are feeding on the roots.  These circular
areas gradually increase in size.  Samples dug the edges of the circles
where the grass is green will reveal the scale insects.  When the area is
small, the affected sod and soil can be carefully removed and replaced.  Be
very careful with contaminated soil and the tools used to examine the lawn,
as they can contaminate unaffected areas.  Samples can be taken to the U of
A Cooperative Extension office for free analysis.

Sulfur or a sulfur bearing product gives some control by itself. Couple it
with an insecticide designed for soil applications on lawns and the control
may go up to 60 to 70%.  Applications must be made and watered in thoroughly.

At the present time the product known as Merit is not labeled for the
control of pearl scale.  As representatives of the University of Arizona,
Master Gardeners cannot legally recommend the use of Merit for this
pest.  It is illegal to recommend the use of a product for anything  that
is not included on its label.  You can check the Merit product specimen
label at http://www.bayerprocentral.com/products/merit/index.html

However, homeowners and golf course superintendents have noticed that using
Merit for the control of white grubs in turf (which the label lists) has
also resulted in a significant control of  any pearl scale that might also
be present.

Common Bermuda seems to tolerate any pearl scale while Dichondra lawns
don't seem to be affected.

Good luck.

Cathy
-----Original Message----- From: dmjc54@msn.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Saturday, September 06, 2003 12:49 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >what is the best way to control pearl scales in yard? what products can you recomend ? >thanks >David > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Tue Sep 9 23:06:14 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 16:06:14 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] New house, old citrus Message-ID: <009001c37727$16c2c940$d231db43@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_008A_01C376EC.4B178D60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Bunkie, The rule on pruning citrus trees is do not prune except to remove dead = or crossing branches, growth from below the graft and wayward branches. The preferred time to prune citrus is in the spring, never in hot = weather. Never remove more than 15% at one time. If you raise the crown away from the ground so that the suns rays hit = the trunk you must paint the trunk with a white or tan paint to protect = from sunburn. Fertilizer should be applied three times a year in Feb. or March, April = or May and July or August. One pound of actual nitrogen should be = applied for the year to mature citrus trees. If you use amonium sulfate = which is 21% nitrogen then your total fertilizer for the year will be 5 = pounds. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener=20 -----Original Message----- From: Bunkie McBride To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Cc: Renee McBride Date: Saturday, September 06, 2003 12:50 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] New house, old citrus We bought a house in Queen Creek last year that has 4 orange trees. = One of the trees has never been pruned =93up=94 and looks like the trees = in an active citrus farm (lots of vegetation down to the ground). = It=92s nearly impossible to get =93under=94 the tree to prune dead = branches and thin. Other circumstances that may impact the tree are: = (1) we have irrigation and will use that for watering, (2) we have two = horses that will be brought to the property within 30 =96 45 days = (waiting for the new pasture grass to mature).=20 =20 Questions we have:=20 =20 1. When can heavy pruning occur and how much is allowable to = keep the tree from going into shock?=20 2. We assume exposing the trunk bark will cause the bark to = burn. Is typical tree paint all that=92s required to protect?=20 3. When is the proper time to feed the citrus trees and what is = the proper product / quantity to use?=20 4. We also assume the tree will have to be protected from the = horses. Do you know if horses are likely to eat the leaves, etc.?=20 =20 Thank you so much, Bunkie=20 =20 =20 ------=_NextPart_000_008A_01C376EC.4B178D60 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Bunkie,
The rule on pruning citrus trees is do not prune = except to=20 remove dead or crossing branches, growth from below the graft and = wayward=20 branches.
The preferred time to prune citrus is in the = spring,=20 never in hot weather.
Never remove more than 15% at one time.
If you raise the crown away from the ground so that = the suns=20 rays hit the trunk you must paint the trunk with a white or tan paint to = protect=20 from sunburn.
Fertilizer should be applied three times a year in = Feb. or=20 March, April or May and July or August. One pound of actual nitrogen = should be=20 applied for the year to mature citrus trees. If you use amonium sulfate = which is=20 21% nitrogen then your total fertilizer for the year will be 5=20 pounds.
 
Good luck.
 
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener 
-----Original = Message-----
From:=20 Bunkie McBride <bunkie@stevensleinweber.com>
To:=20 arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu = <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Cc:=20 Renee McBride <rmcbride@ecllaw.com>
Date: = Saturday,=20 September 06, 2003 12:50 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] New = house, old=20 citrus

We bought = a house in=20 Queen Creek last year that has 4 orange trees.  One of the trees has never = been pruned=20 =93up=94 and looks like the trees in an active citrus farm (lots of = vegetation=20 down to the ground).  = It=92s nearly=20 impossible to get =93under=94 the tree to prune dead branches and = thin.  Other circumstances that may = impact=20 the tree are: (1) we have irrigation and will use that for watering, = (2) we=20 have two horses that will be brought to the property within 30 =96 45 = days=20 (waiting for the new pasture grass to mature).=20

 

Questions = we have:=20

 

1.      =20 When can = heavy pruning=20 occur and how much is allowable to keep the tree from going into = shock?=20

2.      =20 We = assume exposing the=20 trunk bark will cause the bark to burn. =20 Is typical tree paint all that=92s required to protect?=20

3.      =20 When is = the proper=20 time to feed the citrus trees and what is the proper product / = quantity to=20 use?

4.      =20 We also = assume the=20 tree will have to be protected from the horses.  Do you know if horses are = likely to=20 eat the leaves, etc.?

 

Thank you = so much,=20 Bunkie

 

 

<= /DIV>
------=_NextPart_000_008A_01C376EC.4B178D60-- From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Tue Sep 9 22:38:15 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2003 15:38:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] How much water for an African Sumac in a large clay pot? Message-ID: <008d01c37727$11319d80$d231db43@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_006F_01C376E8.627C2820 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Keith and Sue, Trees will drop their leaves when they do not get enough water as a = first line defense. You need to water more frequently.=20 Since your climate conditions in San Diego are quite different from what = we have here in the Phoenix area I would suggest that you contact your = county Cooperative Extension who will be familiar with your area. You = will find them listed in your phone book under county government. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener Original Message----- From: Keith & Sue Colestock To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Tuesday, September 09, 2003 1:22 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] How much water for an African Sumac in a large = clay pot? Help! We have a new 10-12' African Sumac in our courtyard in a very = large clay pot. We got a healthy specimen from the nursery 2 weeks ago = and it was transplanted into the pot with potting soil and gravel on the = bottom. The courtyard has a southern exposure, with about 5-6 hours of = hot sun in the middle of the day. We live in San Diego, inland where it = is dry and hot. A couple days ago the tree began to drop lots of leaves, = but the leaves are not brown or yellow. How much water should we give = the tree if it is in a clay pot (the roots will stay small and compact = in the pot). We were told to water frequently because the clay pot sucks = moisture from the soil, but we also know the African Sumac is suppose to = be drought tolerant. In the last 2 weeks the tree has been watered by = hand every 3-4 days -- a deep watering until it runs out the bottom of = the pot. P.S. The pot is elevated off the cement on pot feet. Please = help ... we are fairly new gardeners with little experience and don't = want to lose this beautiful tree. ------=_NextPart_000_006F_01C376E8.627C2820 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Keith and Sue,
Trees will drop their leaves when they do not get = enough water=20 as a first line defense. You need to water more frequently. =
Since your climate conditions in San Diego are quite = different=20 from what we have here in the Phoenix area I would suggest that you = contact your=20 county Cooperative Extension who will be familiar with your area. You = will find=20 them listed in your phone book under county government.
 
Good luck.
 
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
 
Original = Message-----
From:=20 Keith & Sue Colestock <keithsue@san.rr.com>
To: = arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu = <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Date:=20 Tuesday, September 09, 2003 1:22 PM
Subject: = [Arid_gardener] How=20 much water for an African Sumac in a large clay = pot?

Help! We have a new 10-12' African = Sumac in our=20 courtyard in a very large clay pot. We got a healthy = specimen from the=20 nursery 2 weeks ago and it was transplanted into the pot with = potting=20 soil and gravel on the bottom. The courtyard has a southern exposure, = with=20 about 5-6 hours of hot sun in the middle of the day. We live in San = Diego,=20 inland where it is dry and hot. A couple days ago the tree began to=20 drop lots of leaves, but the leaves are not brown or yellow. How = much=20 water should we give the tree if it is in a clay pot (the roots will = stay=20 small and compact in the pot). We were told to water frequently = because the=20 clay pot sucks moisture from the soil, but we also know the African = Sumac is=20 suppose to be drought tolerant. In the last 2 weeks the tree has been = watered=20 by hand every 3-4 days -- a deep watering until it runs out the bottom = of the=20 pot. P.S. The pot is elevated off the cement on pot feet. Please help = ... we=20 are fairly new gardeners with little experience and don't want to lose = this=20 beautiful tree.
------=_NextPart_000_006F_01C376E8.627C2820-- From Jannuzzix3@aol.com Thu Sep 11 16:52:36 2003 From: Jannuzzix3@aol.com (Jannuzzix3@aol.com) Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 12:52:36 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite Tree problems Message-ID: <12b.3146413c.2c920254@aol.com> --part1_12b.3146413c.2c920254_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit My neighbor has a mesquite tree that is 30+ ft. tall. It was put in as a 36" box tree several years ago. It has sap coming out every where! The entire side of the trunk from the ground to about 4ft. is just black from the sap. Looks like it was spray painted. Other parts are oozing too, mostly in the y's of the branches. To make matters worse, one side of the tree was so heavy the tree split almost nearly in half. It does not appear that it has bugs, etc. They did very severe pruning to lighten the load. The tree has been bolted together to close up the trunk. There are cacti planted around the tree and the lawn is only 5 ft. away. Tree, cacti and plants are on a drip and lawn is on sprinklers, everything gets watered every day. Anyhting else we should do to help the tree survive? I suspect that the watering regimen is too much. Any suggestions are appreciated. --part1_12b.3146413c.2c920254_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable My neighbor has a mesquite tree that is 30+ ft. tall.&= nbsp;   It was put in as a 36" box tree several years ago. &n= bsp; It has sap coming out every where!  The entire side of the trunk f= rom  the ground to about 4ft. is just black from the sap.  Looks l= ike it was spray painted.  Other parts are oozing too, mostly in the y'= s of the branches.   To make matters worse, one side of the tree w= as so heavy the tree split almost nearly in half.   It does not ap= pear that it has bugs, etc.    They did very severe pruning t= o lighten the load.  The tree has been bolted together to close up the=20= trunk.     There are cacti planted around  the tree= and the lawn is only 5 ft. away.    Tree, cacti and plants a= re on a drip and  lawn is on sprinklers, everything gets watered every=20= day.     Anyhting else we should do to help the tree sur= vive?   I suspect that the watering regimen is too much. &nbs= p;  Any suggestions are appreciated. --part1_12b.3146413c.2c920254_boundary-- From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Wed Sep 10 21:28:24 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 14:28:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oranges splitting Message-ID: <004601c377e2$79cd0760$b92c0a3f@ibmbna6040> The high temperatures are causing your oranges to split. Sorry but there is not anything that can be done to prevent the cracking. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ---Original Message----- From: rosesable@webtv.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Wednesday, September 10, 2003 10:11 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >the oranges on my tree are splitting and falling off???? any idea why ?? >thanks > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Wed Sep 10 21:23:29 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 14:23:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Nut Grass Message-ID: <004101c377e1$c9821bc0$b92c0a3f@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_003E_01C377A7.1B4D4B40 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable An herbicide called Manage is the best available for ridding your turf = of nut grass. Be sure to follow directions precisely. You will probably = have to make two applications, however it is too late to make the second = application this year. Try again next year early enough so that two = applications can be made since 6 weeks is required between applications. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ------=_NextPart_000_003E_01C377A7.1B4D4B40 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
An herbicide called Manage is the best = available for=20 ridding your turf of nut grass. Be sure to follow directions precisely. = You will=20 probably have to make two applications, however it is too late to make = the=20 second application  this year. Try again next year early enough so = that two=20 applications can be made since 6 weeks is required between=20 applications.
 
Good luck.
 
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
------=_NextPart_000_003E_01C377A7.1B4D4B40-- From FarmerGreg@UrbanFarm.org Wed Sep 10 17:15:49 2003 From: FarmerGreg@UrbanFarm.org (Greg) Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 10:15:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Urban Farm Tours, Classes and Salons. Tour this Saturday the 13th. Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20030910101540.01f3d5d8@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_15211823==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Hey there fellow gardeners and farmers, After a long hot summer (I realize we are still in the throws of the heat) it is time to start thinking about your fall and winter garden. Now is a great time to get your garden going so that you have some veggies by Thanksgiving. There are several hot weather fall crops that can be planted direct from seed right into the ground. They include chard, snow peas, arrugala, nasturtiums, and onions to name a few. Interested in finding out how to grow these and more? Read on for our latest list of classes. All Events are offered on a donation basis in order to make them available to everyone. We are asking for donations in order to make these classes sustainable upon themselves. Suggested donations are between $5 and $75 per class, but please attend our classes even if you cannot afford a donation. All events listed here are held at: The Urban Farm 6750 N 13th Place Phoenix, AZ 85014 602-248-9256 for RSVP, messages, directions and current list of events. 602-565-7045 for questions. Quick Recap - for more detailed info see below. 1. Urban Farm Tours - Saturday's Sept 13, Oct 4, Nov 1 2. Classes - Saturday's - Please register Sept 26 - Planning your Garden Oct 11 - Designing with Nature in Mind Oct 25 - Soil, mulching, fertilizers Nov 8 - Building your Spring Compost Pile 3. Fruit Tree Classes - Tuesday's - Please RSVP Sept 23 - 7 pm Oct 14 - 7 pm Nov 11 - 7 pm 4. Garden Consultations by Greg and Crew 5. Dance of Universal Peace 6. Can We Talk? - Please RSVP Tuesday, October 7 - Beyond Organic - A view of a 12-acre organic urban farm in Santa Barbara, CA. Tuesday, November 18 - Water Harvesting and use in the desert. Tuesday, December 9 - Drylands, We will be viewing Bill Mollisons video on living in the Drylands It's Tour Time It is also time for our fall tour and class line up. Come by and get some ideas for your yard. I will be speaking about Permaculture, water harvesting, organic gardening, fruit trees and much more. Tours run for one hour, are on a donation basis and cover many aspects of our garden yard here at the Urban Farm. Tour dates - Saturday Sept 13 October 4 November 1. Tours are held at 8 and 10 am. The Urban Farm Classes We will be offering classes on organic gardening and Permaculture here at the Urban Farm on Saturday's throughout the fall. These classes are on a donation basis and you can attend all of them or individual classes. See above for location information. September 27 - 10 am Planning your garden. Where to plant, what to plant when, desert gardening, mulching, seeds and more. October 11 - 10 am Designing with nature in mind? Introduction to Permaculture, Pc ethics and using Pc in your daily lives. Permaculture is the art and science of living with nature. In this class we offer you the basic tenants of Pc and how they can apply to your lives. For more information check out www.permaculture.net. October 25 - 10 am Soil, soil prep, fertilizers, mulching November 8 - 10 am Composting - building your spring compost pile. Fruit Tree Classes Tuesday September 23 - 7 pm Tuesday October 14 - 7 pm Tuesday November 11 - 7 pm The Urban Farm offers a class in picking the perfect fruit tree for you. These classes are offered on a donation basis and will cover how to pick the right tree for your yard, planting, chill hours and much more. You will also be able to order trees from us for delivery in January. Order Fruit Trees Order your trees from us and save. The Urban Farm offers fruit trees for sale at an affordable price. You will be able to purchase apples, peaches, pears, apricots, plums, loquats, pomegranates, almonds, grapes and more. To place your order download an order form from our new website at http://www.urbanfarm.org. Your new trees will arrive in January for immediate planting. Additionally on tree pick up day we will offer tree planting, fertilizing and care classes so that you have the most success with your new trees. Garden Consultations We are also available for garden consultations & installations and Permaculture design consultations and installations. We will come in and survey your garden or yard space and assist you with tree placement, garden design, resource management, water use, and much more. Our basic consultations start with a visit to your garden space and conversation with you about your goals. We observe your space from a whole system view taking into account all that is in your space and speak to you from this place. We can provide you with verbal as well as written recommendation. Call Greg Peterson at 602-565-7045 for more information. Dances of Universal Peace - Sunday October 26, 5:30 pm. For those of you who have never experienced a circle dance they are incredible. John Hinton will come into the space of the Urban Farm and lead us in a spiritual and grounding circle dance and chant. We will use the outdoor space in the back yard here at the Urban Farm and begin by grounding ourselves into the earth, then spend a delightful time singing and dancing. The entire process is lead by John and is offered on a donation basis. Come, bring your friends and relax here at the Urban Farm. Can we talk? We are offering Salons throughout the fall here at the Urban Farm. A salon is a community discussion that revolves around a central topic. We will be viewing a video to launch the discussion then spend an hour so discussing the topic at hand. Typically these discussion groups address the bigger social issues of our time. All salons are held at 7 pm at the Urban Farm. Tuesday, October 7 - Beyond Organic - A view of a 12-acre organic urban farm in Santa Barbara, CA. Tuesday, November 18 - Water Harvesting and use in the desert. Tuesday, December 9 - Drylands, We will be viewing Bill Mollisons video on living in the Drylands Bioneers Conference in Prescott There is a group of us that will be attending the Bioneers conference that is being broadcast from California. This event will take place concurrently with the Bioneers yearly conference plus it will include local issues and events. Dates are October 17 to 19. For more information see www.bioneers.org. We may be congregating some place locally to car pool to the event - anyone interested in coordinating this project? Call Greg Peterson at 602-565-7045. -- ***ATTENTION*** Please note my new email address. FarmerGreg@UrbanFarm.org The Urban Farm Growing good food Having fun gardening Connecting with nature Greg Peterson http://www.urbanfarm.org 602/279-3713 --=====================_15211823==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hey there fellow gardeners and farmers,


After a long hot summer (I realize we are still in the throws of the heat) it is time to start thinking about your fall and winter garden.  Now is a great time to get your garden going so that you have some veggies by Thanksgiving.  There are several hot weather fall crops that can be planted direct from seed right into the ground.  They include chard, snow peas, arrugala, nasturtiums, and onions to name a few.  Interested in finding out how to grow these and more?  Read on for our latest list of classes.

All Events are offered on a donation basis in order to make them available to everyone.  We are asking for donations in order to make these classes sustainable upon themselves.  Suggested donations are between $5 and $75 per class, but please attend our classes even if you cannot afford a donation.

All events listed here are held at:
The Urban Farm

6750 N 13th Place

Phoenix, AZ 85014

602-248-9256 for RSVP, messages, directions and current list of events.

602-565-7045 for questions.



Quick Recap - for more detailed info see below.
1.  Urban Farm Tours - Saturday's Sept 13, Oct 4, Nov=20 1



2.  Classes - Saturday's - Please register
Sept 26 - Planning your Garden

Oct 11 - Designing with Nature in Mind

Oct 25 - Soil, mulching, fertilizers

Nov 8 - Building your Spring Compost Pile



3.  Fruit Tree Classes - Tuesday's - Please RSVP
Sept 23 - 7 pm

Oct 14 - 7 pm

Nov 11 - 7 pm



4.  Garden Consultations by Greg and Crew



5.  Dance of Universal Peace



6.  Can We Talk? - Please RSVP
Tuesday, October 7 - Beyond Organic - A view of a 12-acre organic urban= farm in Santa Barbara, CA.

Tuesday, November 18 - Water Harvesting and use in the desert.

Tuesday, December 9 - Drylands, We will be viewing Bill Mollisons video= on living in the Drylands
It's Tour Time
It is also time for our fall= tour and class line up.  Come by and get some ideas for your= yard.  I will be speaking about Permaculture, water harvesting,= organic gardening, fruit trees and much more.  Tours run for one hour,= are on a donation basis and cover many aspects of our garden yard here at= the Urban Farm.=20
Tour dates -

Saturday Sept 13

October 4

November 1.

Tours are held at 8 and 10 am.
The Urban Farm Classes
We will be offering classes= on organic gardening and Permaculture here at the Urban Farm on Saturday's= throughout the fall.  These classes are on a donation basis and you= can attend all of them or individual classes.  See above for location= information.
September 27 - 10 am

Planning your garden.  Where to plant, what to plant when, desert= gardening, mulching, seeds and more.



October 11 - 10 am

Designing with nature in mind?  Introduction to Permaculture, Pc= ethics and using Pc in your daily lives.  Permaculture is the art and= science of living with nature.  In this class we offer you the basic= tenants of Pc and how they can apply to your lives.  For more= information check out www.permaculture.net.



October 25 - 10 am

Soil, soil prep, fertilizers, mulching



November 8 - 10 am

Composting - building your spring compost pile.



Fruit Tree Classes
Tuesday September 23 - 7 pm

Tuesday October 14 - 7 pm

Tuesday November 11 - 7 pm



The Urban Farm offers a class in picking the perfect fruit tree for= you.  These classes are offered on a donation basis and will cover how= to pick the right tree for your yard, planting, chill hours and much= more.  You will also be able to order trees from us for delivery in= January.

Order Fruit Trees
Order your trees from us and= save.  The Urban Farm offers fruit trees for sale at an affordable= price.  You will be able to purchase apples, peaches, pears, apricots,= plums, loquats, pomegranates, almonds, grapes and more.  To place your= order download an order form from our new website at http://www.urbanfarm.org. Your new= trees will arrive in January for immediate planting.  Additionally on= tree pick up day we will offer tree planting, fertilizing and care classes= so that you have the most success with your new trees.

Garden Consultations
We are also available for= garden consultations & installations and Permaculture design= consultations and installations.  We will come in and survey your= garden or yard space and assist you with tree placement, garden design,= resource management, water use, and much more.  Our basic= consultations start with a visit to your garden space and conversation with= you about your goals.  We observe your space from a whole system view= taking into account all that is in your space and speak to you from this= place.  We can provide you with verbal as well as written= recommendation.  Call Greg Peterson at 602-565-7045 for more= information.
Dances of Universal Peace -= Sunday October 26, 5:30 pm.
For those of you who have= never experienced a circle dance they are incredible.  John Hinton= will come into the space of the Urban Farm and lead us in a spiritual and= grounding circle dance and chant.  We will use the outdoor space in= the back yard here at the Urban Farm and begin by grounding ourselves into= the earth, then spend a delightful time singing and dancing.  The= entire process is lead by John and is offered on a donation basis. = Come, bring your friends and relax here at the Urban Farm.

Can we talk?
We are offering Salons= throughout the fall here at the Urban Farm.  A salon is a community= discussion that revolves around a central topic.  We will be viewing a= video to launch the discussion then spend an hour so discussing the topic= at hand.  Typically these discussion groups address the bigger social= issues of our time.  All salons are held at 7 pm at the Urban Farm.
Tuesday, October 7 - Beyond Organic - A view of a 12-acre organic urban= farm in Santa Barbara, CA.



Tuesday, November 18 - Water Harvesting and use in the desert.



Tuesday, December 9 - Drylands, We will be viewing Bill Mollisons video= on living in the Drylands
Bioneers Conference in= Prescott
There is a group of us that= will be attending the Bioneers conference that is being broadcast from= California.  This event will take place concurrently with the Bioneers= yearly conference plus it will include local issues and events.  Dates= are October 17 to 19.  For more information see www.bioneers.org.= We may be congregating some place locally to car pool to the event -= anyone interested in coordinating this project?  Call Greg Peterson at= 602-565-7045.


--=20
***ATTENTION***  Please note my new email address. = FarmerGreg@UrbanFarm.org

The Urban Farm
Growing good food
Having fun gardening
Connecting with nature


Greg Peterson
http://www.urbanfarm.org
602/279-3713


--=====================_15211823==_.ALT-- From RITACHMIEL@aol.com Wed Sep 10 17:21:53 2003 From: RITACHMIEL@aol.com (by way of Lucy Bradley ) Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2003 10:21:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question to answer Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20030910102141.04aec5a8@ag.arizona.edu> This is a question on one of the email I received that I am interested in getting an answer. I am trying to find some flowering trees that will do well in Chandler. Not your run-of-the mill stuff. I've found a few that sound like they might be OK, but I can't tell for sure: Stenocarpus sinuatus (Firewheel Tree); Delonix regia (Royal Poinciana); Spathodea campanulata (African Tulip tree); Xanthorrhoea australis (Australian Grass tree); Contorted Mulberry; Port Wine banana shrub. I've looked on the internet and it's difficult to tell which, if any, would work here. Also, will any of the Canna varieties do well here, or only certain types (i.e. Canna Tropicana)? Thanks. From charlene3263@cox.net Thu Sep 11 19:38:45 2003 From: charlene3263@cox.net (charlene3263@cox.net) Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 12:38:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309111938.h8BJcjZr022813@Ag.arizona.edu> What is the difference between a grafted palo verde tree and a palo verde grown from a cutting? Which of these trees (grafted or cutting grown) would be the better to use? Thank you for your attention to this question. From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Thu Sep 11 22:54:06 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 15:54:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite Tree problems Message-ID: <003f01c378b7$b2b41340$44a9db43@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_003C_01C3787C.EE5DAC20 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable It is normal for most mesquite trees to bleed sap and that is what your = neighbor's tree is doing. Over irrigation causes trees to grow rapidly and fast growing trees are = not as strong as slower growing trees this being a factor in the trunk = splitting. The fast growing tree unless pruned regularly forms a very = dense crown which makes the tree susceptable to wind damage.=20 Recommended irrigation for desert adapted mature trees such as the = mesquite is to deep water once every two to three weeks during summer. = The cacti will do very well on that irrigation schedule. The grass if = watered every day is being watered too often also. We have been in a severe drought for five years and we need to conserve = as much water as possible. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener Message----- From: Jannuzzix3@aol.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Thursday, September 11, 2003 10:04 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite Tree problems My neighbor has a mesquite tree that is 30+ ft. tall. It was put in = as a 36" box tree several years ago. It has sap coming out every = where! The entire side of the trunk from the ground to about 4ft. is = just black from the sap. Looks like it was spray painted. Other parts = are oozing too, mostly in the y's of the branches. To make matters = worse, one side of the tree was so heavy the tree split almost nearly in = half. It does not appear that it has bugs, etc. They did very = severe pruning to lighten the load. The tree has been bolted together = to close up the trunk. There are cacti planted around the tree and = the lawn is only 5 ft. away. Tree, cacti and plants are on a drip and = lawn is on sprinklers, everything gets watered every day. Anyhting = else we should do to help the tree survive? I suspect that the = watering regimen is too much. Any suggestions are appreciated.=20 ------=_NextPart_000_003C_01C3787C.EE5DAC20 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
It is normal for most mesquite trees to bleed sap = and that is=20 what your neighbor's tree is doing.
Over irrigation causes trees to grow rapidly and = fast growing=20 trees are not as strong as slower growing trees this being a factor in = the trunk=20 splitting. The fast growing tree unless pruned regularly forms a very = dense=20 crown which makes the tree susceptable to wind = damage. 
Recommended irrigation for desert adapted = mature trees=20 such as the mesquite is to deep water once every two to three weeks = during=20 summer. The cacti will do very well on that irrigation schedule. The = grass if=20 watered every day is being watered too often also.
We have been in a severe drought for five years and = we need to=20 conserve as much water as possible.
 
Good luck.
 
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
Message-----
From: = Jannuzzix3@aol.com <Jannuzzix3@aol.com>
To: = arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu = <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Date:=20 Thursday, September 11, 2003 10:04 AM
Subject: = [Arid_gardener]=20 Mesquite Tree problems

My=20 neighbor has a mesquite tree that is 30+ ft. tall.    = It was=20 put in as a 36" box tree several years ago.   It has sap = coming out=20 every where!  The entire side of the trunk from  the ground = to about=20 4ft. is just black from the sap.  Looks like it was spray = painted. =20 Other parts are oozing too, mostly in the y's of the = branches.   To=20 make matters worse, one side of the tree was so heavy the tree split = almost=20 nearly in half.   It does not appear that it has bugs,=20 etc.    They did very severe pruning to lighten the = load. =20 The tree has been bolted together to close up the=20 trunk.     There are cacti planted around  = the tree=20 and the lawn is only 5 ft. away.    Tree, cacti and = plants are=20 on a drip and  lawn is on sprinklers, everything gets watered = every=20 day.     Anyhting else we should do to help the = tree=20 survive?   I suspect that the watering regimen is too=20 much.    Any suggestions are appreciated.=20 ------=_NextPart_000_003C_01C3787C.EE5DAC20-- From cliveval@hotmail.com Fri Sep 12 02:32:23 2003 From: cliveval@hotmail.com (cliveval@hotmail.com) Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 19:32:23 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309120232.h8C2WNZr003252@Ag.arizona.edu> Are there any berries that will grow really well in the West Valley? I see them in the garden centers but am not sure if I will be wasting my money to buy any. Many thanks Valerie From watsontl@mindspring.com Fri Sep 12 01:39:34 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2003 18:39:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Is This Thing On? Message-ID: <000a01c378ce$b9561b50$fe61b83f@S0029317241> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C37894.0C14AB80 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Gotten very quiet on the listserv these days. Did I somehow get = dropped off the list? Or have all the gardeners gone south for the = winter? Tom ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C37894.0C14AB80 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Gotten very quiet on the listserv these = days.   Did I somehow get dropped off the list?   Or = have=20 all the gardeners gone south for the winter?
 
Tom
------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C37894.0C14AB80-- From Artis45@aol.com Fri Sep 12 12:06:24 2003 From: Artis45@aol.com (Artis45@aol.com) Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2003 08:06:24 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cactus Message-ID: <32.3dcc9a37.2c9310c0@aol.com> --part1_32.3dcc9a37.2c9310c0_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have many houseplants that are cactus. I would like to know the trick to transplanting them without getting pricked. I would like to make a cactus garden with them, but can't figure out how to do it and not end up being a human porcipine. Thanks for your help. Doris (artis45@aol,com) --part1_32.3dcc9a37.2c9310c0_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have many houseplants that are cactus. I woul= d like to know the trick to transplanting them without getting pricked. I wo= uld like to make a cactus garden with them, but can't figure out how to do i= t and not end up being a human porcipine.
            &nbs= p;     Thanks for your help.
            &nbs= p;            &n= bsp;      Doris (artis45@aol,com) --part1_32.3dcc9a37.2c9310c0_boundary-- From Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com Fri Sep 12 14:48:29 2003 From: Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com (Zelhart Alan-rpcs30) Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2003 07:48:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cactus Message-ID: <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B9930707151D86@az33exm25.corp.mot.com> This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C3793C.EE2538A2 Content-Type: text/plain Hi Doris, Here is how I do it. Depending on how big they are, I wrap either a dish towel or a large bath towel around them. Lay the pot on it's side. Put on my my heavy duty leather work gloves, and work them out of the pot that way. Gripping the towel, pull them out of the pot, and tipping the cactus by the towel into it's new pot or new hole in the ground. This worked very well on some golden barrel cactus I had, and on some of my long spiney cactus. -- Chat with you later, Alan -- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ----- Alan Zelhart gizmoaz@cox.net Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- Man has his will Woman has her won't! -----Original Message----- From: Artis45@aol.com [mailto:Artis45@aol.com] Sent: Friday, September 12, 2003 5:06 AM To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cactus I have many houseplants that are cactus. I would like to know the trick to transplanting them without getting pricked. I would like to make a cactus garden with them, but can't figure out how to do it and not end up being a human porcipine. Thanks for your help. Doris (artis45@aol,com) ------_=_NextPart_001_01C3793C.EE2538A2 Content-Type: text/html Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 PCFET0NUWVBFIEhUTUwgUFVCTElDICItLy9XM0MvL0RURCBIVE1MIDQuMCBUcmFuc2l0aW9uYWwv L0VOIj4NCjxIVE1MPjxIRUFEPg0KPE1FVEEgSFRUUC1FUVVJVj0iQ29udGVudC1UeXBlIiBDT05U RU5UPSJ0ZXh0L2h0bWw7IGNoYXJzZXQ9dXMtYXNjaWkiPg0KDQoNCjxNRVRBIGNvbnRlbnQ9Ik1T SFRNTCA2LjAwLjI4MDAuMTE0MSIgbmFtZT1HRU5FUkFUT1I+PC9IRUFEPg0KPEJPRFk+DQo8RElW PjxTUEFOIGNsYXNzPTU1MjE1NDkxNC0xMjA5MjAwMz48Rk9OVCBmYWNlPVZlcmRhbmEgY29sb3I9 IzAwMDBmZj5IaSANCkRvcmlzLDwvRk9OVD48L1NQQU4+PC9ESVY+DQo8RElWPjxTUEFOIGNsYXNz PTU1MjE1NDkxNC0xMjA5MjAwMz48Rk9OVCBmYWNlPVZlcmRhbmEgY29sb3I9IzAwMDBmZj48QlI+ SGVyZSBpcyANCmhvdyBJIGRvIGl0LiZuYnNwOyBEZXBlbmRpbmcgb24gaG93IGJpZyB0aGV5IGFy ZSwgSSB3cmFwIGVpdGhlciBhIGRpc2ggdG93ZWwgb3IgDQphIGxhcmdlIGJhdGggdG93ZWwgYXJv dW5kIHRoZW0uJm5ic3A7IExheSB0aGUgcG90IG9uIGl0J3Mgc2lkZS4mbmJzcDsgUHV0IG9uIG15 IA0KbXkgaGVhdnkgZHV0eSBsZWF0aGVyIHdvcmsgZ2xvdmVzLCBhbmQgd29yayB0aGVtIG91dCBv ZiB0aGUgcG90IHRoYXQgd2F5LiZuYnNwOyANCkdyaXBwaW5nIHRoZSB0b3dlbCwgcHVsbCB0aGVt IG91dCBvZiB0aGUgcG90LCBhbmQgdGlwcGluZyB0aGUgY2FjdHVzIGJ5IHRoZSANCnRvd2VsIGlu dG8gaXQncyBuZXcgcG90IG9yIG5ldyBob2xlIGluIHRoZSBncm91bmQuJm5ic3A7IFRoaXMgd29y a2VkIHZlcnkgd2VsbCANCm9uIHNvbWUgZ29sZGVuIGJhcnJlbCBjYWN0dXMgSSBoYWQsIGFuZCBv biBzb21lIG9mIG15IGxvbmcgc3BpbmV5IA0KY2FjdHVzLjwvRk9OVD48L1NQQU4+PC9ESVY+DQo8 RElWPjxGT05UIGZhY2U9VmVyZGFuYSBjb2xvcj0jMDAwMGZmPi0tPEJSPkNoYXQgd2l0aCB5b3Ug bGF0ZXIsPEJSPkFsYW48QlI+LS0gDQo8QlI+Q2hhbmRsZXIsIEFyaXpvbmEmbmJzcDsmbmJzcDsm bmJzcDsmbmJzcDsmbmJzcDsmbmJzcDsmbmJzcDsgU3Vuc2V0IFpvbmU6IA0KMTM8QlI+PEEgDQpo cmVmPSJodHRwOi8vd3d3LkdhcmRlbmVyc0Nvcm5lci5jb20iPmh0dHA6Ly93d3cuR2FyZGVuZXJz Q29ybmVyLmNvbTwvQT48QlI+LS0tLS08QlI+QWxhbiANClplbGhhcnQmbmJzcDsmbmJzcDsmbmJz cDsmbmJzcDsmbmJzcDsmbmJzcDsgPEJSPjxBIA0KaHJlZj0ibWFpbHRvOmdpem1vYXpAY294Lm5l dCI+Z2l6bW9hekBjb3gubmV0PC9BPjxCUj5HYXJkZW5zIENvLWxpc3Rvd25lcjxCUj48QSANCmhy ZWY9Imh0dHA6Ly93d3cuZ2FyZGVuZXJzY29ybmVyLmNvbS9ub3Rlcy5odG1sIj5odHRwOi8vd3d3 LmdhcmRlbmVyc2Nvcm5lci5jb20vbm90ZXMuaHRtbDwvQT48QlI+LS0tLS08QlI+Jm5ic3A7IA0K TWFuIGhhcyBoaXMgd2lsbCBXb21hbiBoYXMgaGVyIHdvbid0ITxCUj48L0ZPTlQ+PC9ESVY+DQo8 QkxPQ0tRVU9URT4NCiAgPERJViBjbGFzcz1PdXRsb29rTWVzc2FnZUhlYWRlciBkaXI9bHRyIGFs aWduPWxlZnQ+PEZPTlQgZmFjZT1UYWhvbWEgDQogIHNpemU9Mj4tLS0tLU9yaWdpbmFsIE1lc3Nh Z2UtLS0tLTxCUj48Qj5Gcm9tOjwvQj4gQXJ0aXM0NUBhb2wuY29tIA0KICBbbWFpbHRvOkFydGlz NDVAYW9sLmNvbV08QlI+PEI+U2VudDo8L0I+IEZyaWRheSwgU2VwdGVtYmVyIDEyLCAyMDAzIDU6 MDYgDQogIEFNPEJSPjxCPlRvOjwvQj4gQXJpZF9nYXJkZW5lckBBZy5hcml6b25hLmVkdTxCUj48 Qj5TdWJqZWN0OjwvQj4gDQogIFtBcmlkX2dhcmRlbmVyXSBDYWN0dXM8QlI+PEJSPjwvRk9OVD48 L0RJVj48Rk9OVCBmYWNlPWFyaWFsLGhlbHZldGljYT48Rk9OVCANCiAgbGFuZz0wIGZhY2U9QXJp YWwgc2l6ZT0zIEZBTUlMWT0iU0FOU1NFUklGIj48Qj48ST5JIGhhdmUgbWFueSBob3VzZXBsYW50 cyB0aGF0IA0KICBhcmUgY2FjdHVzLiBJIHdvdWxkIGxpa2UgdG8ga25vdyB0aGUgdHJpY2sgdG8g dHJhbnNwbGFudGluZyB0aGVtIHdpdGhvdXQgDQogIGdldHRpbmcgcHJpY2tlZC4gSSB3b3VsZCBs aWtlIHRvIG1ha2UgYSBjYWN0dXMgZ2FyZGVuIHdpdGggdGhlbSwgYnV0IGNhbid0IA0KICBmaWd1 cmUgb3V0IGhvdyB0byBkbyBpdCBhbmQgbm90IGVuZCB1cCBiZWluZyBhIGh1bWFuIA0KICBwb3Jj aXBpbmUuPEJSPiZuYnNwOyZuYnNwOyZuYnNwOyZuYnNwOyZuYnNwOyZuYnNwOyZuYnNwOyZuYnNw OyZuYnNwOyZuYnNwOyZuYnNwOyZuYnNwOyZuYnNwOyZuYnNwOyZuYnNwOyZuYnNwOyZuYnNwOyAN CiAgVGhhbmtzIGZvciB5b3VyIA0KICBoZWxwLjxCUj4mbmJzcDsmbmJzcDsmbmJzcDsmbmJzcDsm bmJzcDsmbmJzcDsmbmJzcDsmbmJzcDsmbmJzcDsmbmJzcDsmbmJzcDsmbmJzcDsmbmJzcDsmbmJz cDsmbmJzcDsmbmJzcDsmbmJzcDsmbmJzcDsmbmJzcDsmbmJzcDsmbmJzcDsmbmJzcDsmbmJzcDsm bmJzcDsmbmJzcDsmbmJzcDsmbmJzcDsmbmJzcDsmbmJzcDsmbmJzcDsmbmJzcDsgDQogIERvcmlz IChhcnRpczQ1QGFvbCxjb20pPC9CPjwvST48L0ZPTlQ+IDwvRk9OVD48L0JMT0NLUVVPVEU+PC9C T0RZPjwvSFRNTD4NCg== ------_=_NextPart_001_01C3793C.EE2538A2-- From s2@auroranow.org Fri Sep 12 16:47:41 2003 From: s2@auroranow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2003 09:47:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cactus References: <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B9930707151D86@az33exm25.corp.mot.com> Message-ID: <3F61F8AD.2010405@auroranow.org> > I wrap either a dish towel or a large bath towel around them. On smaller cacti, I've found that large barbecue tongs work great, too. Someone once asked me how I managed to transplant a bunch of cacti. My response: "Veerrrry carefully!" :-P -- Sherryl R. Stalinski, M.A. Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation - http://www.auroranow.org Helping human systems create better futures. http://www.IntegrityIncubator.com A program of Aurora Now helping new and young companies succeed Tucson Office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 ===================================================== "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Sep 13 19:34:57 2003 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2003 12:34:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: I need advice] Message-ID: <3F637161.3010801@qwest.net> --------------080004010707040601000805 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Can someone assist Annette? I'm not familiar with amaryllis. Thanks. Linda Guy, MG -------- Original Message -------- Subject: I need advice Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2003 14:25:30 -0500 From: "AnnetteShelton" To: lindaguy@qwest.net Hello Linda, Early this spring I transplanted old but healthy amaryllis bulbs. When they came up with only two leaves of foliage and no blooms, I read and found that I had planted them too deep. Will they eventually start blooming? What do you advise? Regards, Annette Shelton --------------080004010707040601000805 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Can someone assist Annette? I'm not familiar with amaryllis. Thanks.

Linda Guy, MG

-------- Original Message --------
Subject: I need advice
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2003 14:25:30 -0500
From: "AnnetteShelton" <mashelton@jam.rr.com>
To: lindaguy@qwest.net


Hello Linda,
Early this spring I transplanted old but healthy amaryllis bulbs.  When they came up with only two leaves of foliage and no blooms, I read and found that I had planted them too deep.  Will they eventually start blooming?  What do you advise?
Regards,
Annette Shelton
--------------080004010707040601000805-- From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Sat Sep 13 00:16:49 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2003 17:16:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plant Propagation by cuttings and grafting Message-ID: <000601c3798c$5509e500$cb31db43@ibmbna6040> Charlene, Plant propagation by either cuttings or by grafting are both called asexual propagation and both will produce a clone of the parent tree. Cuttings are more commonly used because it is easier to do than grafting. Grafting is used when problems are encountered in getting the cuttings to root. I don't know that one process is superior to the other. However my preferance is for the cuttings. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: charlene3263@cox.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Thursday, September 11, 2003 2:43 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >What is the difference between a grafted palo verde tree and a palo verde grown from a cutting? Which of these trees (grafted or cutting grown) would be the better to use? > >Thank you for your attention to this question. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From Passport43@qwest.net Sun Sep 14 05:48:24 2003 From: Passport43@qwest.net (Passport43@qwest.net) Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2003 22:48:24 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309140548.h8E5mOZr001589@Ag.arizona.edu> Hello, I have a problem with caterpillars on Sophora secundiflora (Texas Mountain Laurel) I have sprayed with insecticide and have had no real success. What would you recommend that could be used to control these pests? Thank you for your time and hopefully help with this problem. Ralph From Starlene Stewart" Message-ID: <005601c37a83$17296880$7e164bab@stewart> Hi, I'm not a MG but I have an indoor amaryllis that I keep at work that has bloomed for two years. This is not the time of year for them to bloom. I recall that the directions I received with mine said they must have cold temperatures for several weeks in order to blossom. My mom had mine sitting on her porch for several weeks, then gave it to me at Christmas (so when I read the directions that said it should be in the cold for several weeks I was glad to find out where mom had stored it). It bloomed within a month or so, it was just gorgeous!! I also found this: http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening/news/articles/6.2.html Amaryllis are spectacular flowering bulbs which bear gigantic trumpet blooms in a wide range and mix of holiday colors. You can find them for sale in florist shops, garden centers and nurseries in bloom or potted, ready to grow and bloom for the holidays. When growing amaryllis from the bulb indoors, give it plenty of water and keep it in a warm, sunny location as leaves and flower stalk grow. As soon as the buds develop move it to a spot where it has indirect light. Water regularly, as blooming amaryllis are thirsty! Heat shortens the bloom life, so move blooming amaryllis to a cool location at night. When finished blooming, amaryllis may be kept as a house plant for next year's bloom. As flowers fade, cut off the bloom spike, not the leaves. Apply water soluble fertilizer, such as 20-20-20 or similar analysis every two weeks, for the next 6 months. At the end of the period the plant will go dormant and leaves will yellow. At that time store the bulb, pot and all, in a cool, dark place. Don't water until the following November. Amaryllis can also be planted directly outside in a shady location. The north side of the house is best. Every couple of years divide the bulbs in the fall and replant the largest spacing them out several inches apart. HTH, Starlene ----- Original Message ----- From: "Linda Guy" To: "Arid_gardener" Sent: Saturday, September 13, 2003 12:34 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: I need advice] > Can someone assist Annette? I'm not familiar with amaryllis. Thanks. > > Linda Guy, MG > > -------- Original Message -------- > Subject: I need advice > Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2003 14:25:30 -0500 > From: "AnnetteShelton" > To: lindaguy@qwest.net > > > > Hello Linda, > Early this spring I transplanted old but healthy amaryllis bulbs. When > they came up with only two leaves of foliage and no blooms, I read and > found that I had planted them too deep. Will they eventually start > blooming? What do you advise? > Regards, > Annette Shelton > From watsontl@mindspring.com Sat Sep 13 23:53:00 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2003 16:53:00 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Amaryllis References: <3F637161.3010801@qwest.net> Message-ID: <001101c37a52$2ab72b20$d350b83f@S0029317241> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000E_01C37A17.7D5BA3A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable The amaryllis I've grown have always appeared short on leaves, so don't = be too worried about it. I suspect that age may have more to do with lack of blooms than planting = depth. You may have exceeded the recommended depth, but since they put = out leaves successfully, it can't have been by enough to stop the plants = from growing. I don't know what you mean by 'old' but if the bulbs = were old enough to be short on energy when planted they would not have = produced flowers right away. Get them through what's left of summer's = heat (I'm assuming, by the way, that you are a gardener in the desert = southwest) and see what they do in cooler weather. I'll bet you get = flowers later this year, or early next spring. Tom ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Linda Guy=20 To: Arid_gardener=20 Sent: Saturday, September 13, 2003 12:34 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: I need advice] Can someone assist Annette? I'm not familiar with amaryllis. Thanks. Linda Guy, MG -------- Original Message -------- Subject: I need advice=20 Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2003 14:25:30 -0500=20 From: "AnnetteShelton" =20 To: lindaguy@qwest.net=20 Hello Linda, Early this spring I transplanted old but healthy amaryllis bulbs. = When they came up with only two leaves of foliage and no blooms, I read = and found that I had planted them too deep. Will they eventually start = blooming? What do you advise? Regards, Annette Shelton ------=_NextPart_000_000E_01C37A17.7D5BA3A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
The amaryllis I've grown have always = appeared short=20 on leaves, so don't be too worried about it.
 
I suspect that age may have more to do = with lack of=20 blooms than planting depth.   You may have exceeded the = recommended=20 depth, but since they put out leaves successfully, it can't have been by = enough=20 to stop the plants from growing.   I don't know what you mean = by 'old'=20 but if the bulbs were old enough to be short on energy when planted they = would=20 not have produced flowers right away.   Get them through = what's left=20 of summer's heat (I'm assuming, by the way, that you are a gardener in = the=20 desert southwest) and see what they do in cooler weather.   = I'll bet=20 you get flowers later this year, or early next spring.
 
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Linda = Guy=20
Sent: Saturday, September 13, = 2003 12:34=20 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: = I need=20 advice]

Can someone assist Annette? I'm not familiar with = amaryllis.=20 Thanks.

Linda Guy, MG

-------- Original Message -------- =
Subject: I need advice
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2003 14:25:30 -0500
From: "AnnetteShelton" "><mashelton@jam.rr.com>
To: lindaguy@qwest.net


Hello Linda,
Early this spring I transplanted old = but healthy=20 amaryllis bulbs.  When they came up with only two leaves of = foliage and=20 no blooms, I read and found that I had planted them too = deep.  Will=20 they eventually start blooming?  What do you advise?
Regards,
Annette=20 Shelton
------=_NextPart_000_000E_01C37A17.7D5BA3A0-- From jgreene_85020@yahoo.com Sun Sep 14 16:42:42 2003 From: jgreene_85020@yahoo.com (jgreene_85020@yahoo.com) Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 09:42:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309141642.h8EGggZr007797@Ag.arizona.edu> I have three lantana plants in my west-facing front yard. The yard slopes downhill toward the west and gets plenty of sun. These plants bloomed terrifically last year, which was their first year. However beginning with the warmer weather this year, they stopped blooming altogether, although they are still lush and green and show no signs of disease. Could they be getting too much water? From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Sun Sep 14 18:50:15 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 11:50:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lantana not blooming Message-ID: <002101c37af1$0ad45360$d331db43@ibmbna6040> Too much water and or fertilizer will cause a lack of blooms on lantana. If you are watering more often then once per week or 10 days in summer it is too often. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ----Original Message----- From: jgreene_85020@yahoo.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Sunday, September 14, 2003 10:00 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I have three lantana plants in my west-facing front yard. The yard slopes downhill toward the west and gets plenty of sun. These plants bloomed terrifically last year, which was their first year. However beginning with the warmer weather this year, they stopped blooming altogether, although they are still lush and green and show no signs of disease. Could they be getting too much water? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Sun Sep 14 18:42:13 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 11:42:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Caterpillars on Texas Mountain Laurel Message-ID: <001a01c37aef$eb8d8a40$d331db43@ibmbna6040> If there are not too many caterpillars pick them off and stomp them. If the number is great an insecticide called " BT " ( Bacillus thuringensis) should do the job. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: Passport43@qwest.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Sunday, September 14, 2003 6:53 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Hello, > >I have a problem with caterpillars on Sophora secundiflora (Texas Mountain Laurel) I have sprayed with insecticide and have had no real success. What would you recommend that could be used to control these pests? > >Thank you for your time and hopefully help with this problem. >Ralph > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From ralawrence@telco4u.net Sun Sep 14 21:21:27 2003 From: ralawrence@telco4u.net (Roger Lawrence) Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 22:21:27 +0100 Subject: [Arid_gardener] cucumber Message-ID: <003f01c37b0d$69f597c0$ca140a0a@main.felsted.essex.sch.uk> I have just read your description of unusual round cucumbers found in your desert garden in Arizona last year. I have just picked 2 fruits which exactly fit your description growing in my garden in SE England. The plant appeared from nowhere and I had almost given up hope of any fruit when I spied these 2. I had never heard of round cucumbers and so was very interested to read about the round Italian variety called Manduria. Best wishes Diana Message has been scanned by Webshield From kboswell@cox.net Sun Sep 14 20:11:37 2003 From: kboswell@cox.net (kboswell@cox.net) Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 13:11:37 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309142011.h8EKBbZr023902@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a garden area in Scottsdale and I would like to know what to plant now (Sept15/03) .I was considering,tomatoes,peas,golden wax or green beans,carrots,corn.Can I plant any other vegetables at this time without the frost getting to these vegetables. Where do I go to purchase these seeds as I don't want to run out of time if I have to order the seeds,would Home Depot of Walmart carry these seeds? Thankyou for your advise Ken Boswell From watsontl@mindspring.com Mon Sep 15 00:51:08 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 17:51:08 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Vegetable Dates and Seed Sources References: <200309142011.h8EKBbZr023902@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <003001c37b23$74748150$3030b83f@S0029317241> http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/vegetable/guide.html The above link will get you to information on best planting dates for vegetables where you are. Remember that it is a guide, not a set of rules. Unusual weather can sometimes force you to shift planting dates. As for seeds, I prefer to order from catalogs because of the wider variety available that way. However, I've grown plenty of vegetables from seed purchased on racks at hardware stores and garden centers, so if you need the seeds right now, go for it. (My personal preference is to try an actual nursery.) The link below is to a company that has been very quick to get seeds to me in the past, and carries a lot of varieties not commonly available elsewhere. http://www.seedsofchange.com/default.asp?UID=2003091417405026 For future reference, seeds companies such as Johnny's Selected Seeds, Burpees, and Park Seed Co. all have websites that are worth browsing. Best of luck! Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2003 1:11 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I have a garden area in Scottsdale and I would like to know what to plant now (Sept15/03) .I was considering,tomatoes,peas,golden wax or green beans,carrots,corn.Can I plant any other vegetables at this time without the frost getting to these vegetables. > Where do I go to purchase these seeds as I don't want to run out of time if I have to order the seeds,would Home Depot of Walmart carry these seeds? > > Thankyou for your advise > > Ken Boswell > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From Starlene Stewart" Message-ID: <004701c37b43$c2384a00$08063b41@stewart> Hello Ken, My favorite place to order seeds is Pinetree. They sell small amounts of seeds at very reasonable prices just perfect for my gardening needs. $1.95 to ship the seeds, and they have a fast turnaround. I've ordered via the Internet and usually receive the seeds within 5-7 days. www.superseeds.com According to my records gleaned from the Cooperative Extension beginning September 15th it is time to plant (TS stands for Transplant or Seeds. The others are Seeds): Beets Broccoli TS Brussel Sprouts TS Carrots Cauliflower TS Celery TS Chard TS Cucumbers Endive Lettuce, Head TS Lettuce, Leaf TS Leek Onions, Green Peas Radishes Spinach According to the calendar, "Beans, Snap" can be planted between August 1st and September 15th, so you could plant those now. They can also be planted between March 15th and May 1st. I planted green beans in March, and the plants grew nicely, but we didn't get even one green bean from them. As for corn, I've got July 15th to September 1st, and February 15th to April 1st. Tomatoes -- buy seeds to start them indoors late December, early January. I have CE Publication Q295 and it recommends growing tomatoes that are short season varieties (less than 70 days), plant 6" plants outdoors mid-February, and it takes about 6 weeks to grow a 6" plant. I also prefer growing indeterminate varieties as you get tomatoes for weeks and weeks instead of all at once. Yellow Pear Tomatoes (a small cherry type but pear shaped) have always done very well for me and yielded a couple hundred from each plant. I'm planning to buy these seeds from Pinetree, to start in January: #395 Cluster Grande (F1 Hybrid 63 days) 5 ounce fruits; indeterminate type; 15 seeds minimum per packet $1.25 (These are the cluster type tomatoes you see in the grocery store) #417 Golden Queen (Amish Heirloom 65 days) 3" - 4" round fruit; indeterminate 20 seeds minimum per packet $0.80 #420 Yellow Pear (Heirloom 80 days) 1 1/2" long pear-like fruit; indeterminate 20 seeds minimum per packet $0.70 I'm also tempted to try some of these Jelly Bean Grape tomatoes. #396; 15 seeds per packet minimum $1.25; Hybrid Last year I made a last minute run to Home Depot and all they had were Early Girl and Jubilee Gold. The Early Girl's did okay, and many of the plants survived the summer and we are beginning to see flowers and even some very small tomatoes. The Jubilee Gold tomatoes were *heavenly* -- juicy and full of taste. But they were an 80 day variety and we got maybe a dozen tomatoes from 4 plants. That's why I'm planning to buy the yellow varieties from Pinetree since those didn't do too well. FWIW, I like to plant both heirloom and hybrid varieties each year, that way I can save the heirloom's seeds to plant the next year. The hybrid's seeds don't reproduce themselves so it's best not to use their seeds. HTH, Starlene, not a MG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2003 1:11 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I have a garden area in Scottsdale and I would like to know what to plant now (Sept15/03) .I was considering,tomatoes,peas,golden wax or green beans,carrots,corn.Can I plant any other vegetables at this time without the frost getting to these vegetables. > Where do I go to purchase these seeds as I don't want to run out of time if I have to order the seeds,would Home Depot of Walmart carry these seeds? > > Thankyou for your advise > > Ken Boswell From Starlene Stewart" My eggplant plants (6) actually thrived through the summer. I planted Ichiban transplants back in mid-February but I think I stunted their growth initially since the CE's recommended date for transplanting is March 1st. Here's the problem... I've not gotten even one edible eggplant. They all start out nice and purple, but as they grow (even when only about two inches long) they are striped with light green. I have tried eating these, but they are bitter. Any ideas what can be done to prevent the bitterness? Could it be my soil missing something? Thanks in advance, Starlene From margyg@cox.net Mon Sep 15 14:44:39 2003 From: margyg@cox.net (margyg@cox.net) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 07:44:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309151444.h8FEidZr023526@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like information on iris. I have some in pots. Possibly they are too crowded. Should the leaves be cut back at this time? Should they be separated? Thanks Margaret From CMWestby@aol.com Mon Sep 15 14:46:15 2003 From: CMWestby@aol.com (CMWestby@aol.com) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 07:46:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309151446.h8FEkFZr023724@Ag.arizona.edu> This summer I have been plagued with a fungus that I have never seen before...ever! It is a very large non-uniform mass that has the consistancy and odor of mushrooms! It has popped up along the walls of my home in places I normally do not water a lot, as well as in the grass that has overgrown, and along my perimter wall in the flower beds. What is it, and how can I control it? I live near Thunderbird and Scottsdale roads. From Starlene Stewart" AnnetteShelton emailed me privately but when I tried to respond her post came back that it was refused. She asked about the depth of planting the amaryllis bulb. I followed the directions I received in the package as closely as I could, and my two amaryllis at work are showing 1/2" of the bulb above the soil. So I'd make sure the bulb shows 1/2" above the soil. HTH, Starlene, not a MG From BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu Mon Sep 15 17:16:00 2003 From: BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 10:16:00 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fall Garden Festival - Master Gardeners and Metro Tech High School Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20030915101521.05196018@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_6256055==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Hi Garden Enthusiasts, Attached is a Press Release which is being distributed with regard to the Master Gardeners and Metro Tech High School Garden Festival to be held on October 25 at Metro Tech. We would like to invite you to share the information with any persons you feel would be interested in attending the venue as either an exhibitor or a visitor. You won't want to miss: - Plant Sale - Presentations on hot topics given by Master Gardener Speakers - Facts and information from local Garden Clubs - Garden items and beautiful crafts by Garden Vendors and Metro Tech students/artists - Plants and seeds for your yard and/or gifts - "How to" presentations - Hands on activities, contests and drawings - Fun, Fun, Fun To learn more about the day's events or to request a reservation packet, please call 602-470-1556, ext. 1017. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ PRESS RELEASE DRAFT PRESS RELEASE DRAFT PRESS RELEASE DRAFT Maricopa County Master Gardeners/Metro Tech High School Garden Festival Have you noticed that the home and garden shows seem to be filled with more mops and gadgets than shrubs and flowers? Are you tired of having the alarm system sales man try to set up an appointment to come to your home? If you would rather spend your time focusing on landscaping and gardening then this the event for you! Mark your calendars now Saturday, October 25, from 8:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m.--for the co-sponsored Maricopa County Master Gardeners/Metro Tech High School Garden Festival. Join local master gardeners and students from Metro Tech High School for this educational, fun filled event. The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension through the Maricopa County office conducts the Master Gardener Program. Each year, almost 150 people go through an extensive training program to become master gardeners, learning how to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner, based on research specific to the low desert. Trained master gardeners provide 15,000 hours of volunteer time each year, delivering talks at local gardening events, staffing the "horticulture hotline" and many more educational activities. Metro Tech High School, a magnet high school, combines all the necessary academic courses for graduation and post secondary education with a wide variety of vocational programs. One of those programs is a Practical Horticulture program for special-needs students. Students learn basic botany, propagation and plant care. They organize plant sales that include a varied selection of vegetables, herbs, houseplants and unusual succulents, which gives them experience in a retail environment. Money from sales is used to pay students to maintain the greenhouse over the summer, providing real-life job experience. The skills developed transfer to a range of horticultural industry positions in such areas as greenhouse, interiorscape, landscape and nursery. This is the 3rd year for this educational medium, a Festival where you can learn more about the plants that grow in the low desert all the while beautifying your garden. Purchase some wildflower seeds, pick out some vegetable starts, learn about planting times, or ask one of our expert Master Gardeners for advice. Visit with representatives of the local garden clubs and learn how to become involved. Browse the flourishing houseplants, garden signs, and birdhouses made by the able hands of Metro Tech Students. Fun activities for all ages! Is a particular plant overrunning your garden but you cannot bear to dig them up and throw them out? Then please take part in our Great Perennial Divide. The Perennial Divide allows you to place your prolific plants in loving homes, all the while stocking your own yard with new and unusual specimens. The Perennial Divide works. 1. Bring in plants from your yard; they can be seedlings, pups, cuttings, or offsets (potted and labeled). 2. You are given credit towards plants that Master Gardeners and other members of the community brought in. It is a great way to diversify your yard fast on a tight budget. The Garden Festival will be held on Saturday, October 25, 2003, from 8:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. in the courtyard at Metro Tech High School. The event is free and everyone is welcome. Questions? Contact the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension office at 602-470-1556, x. 1017 or http//ag.Arizona.edu/Maricopa/garden/. We hope to see you there and bring a friend! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert. "The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona." ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ --=====================_6256055==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Hi Garden Enthusiasts,
 
Attached is a Press Release which is being distributed with regard to the Master Gardeners and Metro Tech High School Garden Festival to be held on October 25 at Metro Tech. 
 
We would like to invite you to share the information with any persons you feel would be interested in attending the venue as either an exhibitor or a visitor.
 
You won't want to miss:
    -    Plant Sale
    -    Presentations on hot topics given by Master Gardener Speakers
    -    Facts and information from local Garden Clubs
    -    Garden items and beautiful crafts by Garden Vendors and Metro Tech students/artists
    -    Plants and seeds for your yard and/or gifts
    -    "How to" presentations
    -    Hands on activities, contests and drawings
    -    Fun, Fun, Fun
 
To learn more about the day's events or to request a reservation packet, please call 602-470-1556, ext. 1017.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
PRESS RELEASE DRAFT PRESS RELEASE DRAFT PRESS RELEASE DRAFT



Maricopa County Master Gardeners/Metro Tech High School Garden Festival

Have you noticed that the home and garden shows seem to be filled with more mops and gadgets than shrubs and flowers?  Are you tired of having the alarm system sales man try to set up an appointment to come to your home?  If you would rather spend your time focusing on landscaping and gardening then this the event for you!  Mark your calendars now Saturday, October 25, from 8:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m.--for the co-sponsored Maricopa County Master Gardeners/Metro Tech High School Garden Festival.  Join local master gardeners and students from Metro Tech High School for this educational, fun filled event.

The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension through the Maricopa County office conducts the Master Gardener Program.  Each year, almost 150 people go through an extensive training program to become master gardeners, learning how to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner, based on research specific to the low desert. Trained master gardeners provide 15,000 hours of volunteer time each year, delivering talks at local gardening events, staffing the “horticulture hotline” and many more educational activities.

Metro Tech High School, a magnet high school, combines all the necessary academic courses for graduation and post secondary education with a wide variety of vocational programs. One of those programs is a Practical Horticulture program for special-needs students.  Students learn basic botany, propagation and plant care.  They organize plant sales that include a varied selection of vegetables, herbs, houseplants and unusual succulents, which gives them experience in a retail environment.  Money from sales is used to pay students to maintain the greenhouse over the summer, providing real-life job experience.  The skills developed transfer to a range of horticultural industry positions in such areas as greenhouse, interiorscape, landscape and nursery. 

This is the 3rd year for this educational medium, a Festival where you can learn more about the plants that grow in the low desert all the while beautifying your garden.  Purchase some wildflower seeds, pick out some vegetable starts, learn about planting times, or ask one of our expert Master Gardeners for advice.  Visit with representatives of the local garden clubs and learn how to become involved.  Browse the flourishing houseplants, garden signs, and birdhouses made by the able hands of Metro Tech Students.  Fun activities for all ages!

Is a particular plant overrunning your garden but you cannot bear to dig them up and throw them out?  Then please take part in our Great Perennial Divide. The Perennial Divide allows you to place your prolific plants in loving homes, all the while stocking your own yard with new and unusual specimens.  The Perennial Divide works.  1.  Bring in plants from your yard; they can be seedlings, pups, cuttings, or offsets (potted and labeled).   2. You are given credit towards plants that Master Gardeners and other members of the community brought in.  It is a great way to diversify your yard fast on a tight budget.

The Garden Festival will be held on Saturday, October 25, 2003, from 8:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m.  in the courtyard at Metro Tech High School.  The event is free and everyone is welcome.  Questions?  Contact the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension office at 602-470-1556, x. 1017 or http//ag.Arizona.edu/Maricopa/garden/.   We hope to see you there and bring a friend!


 


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ  85040-8807

Phone:  (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax:  (602) 470-8092
email:  BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/
http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens

Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program
To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert.

"The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona."
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


--=====================_6256055==_.ALT-- From Dandylyn@aol.com Mon Sep 15 19:07:13 2003 From: Dandylyn@aol.com (Dandylyn@aol.com) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 12:07:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309151907.h8FJ7DZr020599@Ag.arizona.edu> We have just moved here from Chicago and there are so many "bug" experts here! (exterminators) What do we really need to do to keep scorpions at bay? Some exterminators spray inside and outside every month. Some leave granuals outside. Who's right and what chemicals should we agree to having them use? From jansisaz@aol.com Mon Sep 15 18:20:25 2003 From: jansisaz@aol.com (jansisaz@aol.com) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 11:20:25 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309151820.h8FIKPZr009325@Ag.arizona.edu> We come from Montana and I was wondering if you have heard this before. Some homeowners to keep rattlesnakes away from their homes and gardens would put mothballs in carton that they had poked holes in and set them around their homes. Do you know if this is a hoax or if maybe it actually works. Thanks From dudley16@cox.net Mon Sep 15 17:41:49 2003 From: dudley16@cox.net (George Rath) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 10:41:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Myoporum appears to be dying Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20030915104126.01f4dcc8@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_6256075==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Hello We have a large Myoporum which is about 14 years old. Within the last few weeks it has started turning brown and dry in many places, which it has never done before. It is receiving the same amount of water as it has at this time every year, and we have not applied anything to the plant. Could it be that the plant has reached the end of its lifespan? Is there anything else that would cause this? Thank you for whatever assistance you can provide. Sincerely, George Rath "George Rath" --=====================_6256075==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Hello
We have a large Myoporum which is about 14 years old.  Within the last few weeks it has started turning brown and dry in many places, which it has never done before.  It is receiving the same amount of water as it has at this time every year, and we have not applied anything to the plant.  Could it be that the plant has reached the end of its lifespan?  Is there anything else that would cause this?
Thank you for whatever assistance you can provide.
Sincerely,
George Rath 
"George  Rath" <dudley16@cox.net>
--=====================_6256075==_.ALT-- From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net Mon Sep 15 16:43:56 2003 From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 09:43:56 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200309142011.h8EKBbZr023902@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <003901c37ba8$923c8db0$7a53530c@olin> Wait until late February to transplant tomatoes. You can transplant now and get some growth and may even get some fruit production before the weather cools, but from December 1 until later February you won't see much in the way of growth and any fruit will usually not ripen. You may also need some frost protection. Beans and corn are two-season, warm season crops and are usually planted in the spring (March) or late summer (July-August). The reason isn't only because they are frost tender, but they also need more heat and light than we have in our winter months. Peas can be planted now and again after New Years Day. Carrots can be planted from now until spring. Germination is pretty slow in cooler weather - about 3 weeks from mid November through February. For a vegetable planting calendar, see the Master Gardener Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/vegetable/regions13.html#1-3 You may also find it helpful to review the MG Manual's entire vegetable guide at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/vegetable/ The Home Depots, Lowes, and Wally Worlds seem to stock seeds only when it's planting time somewhere back east. Try a real Southwestern garden center - like the Summer Winds, Harpers, and Baker Nursery to name a few. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > I have a garden area in Scottsdale and I would like to know what to plant now (Sept15/03) .I was considering,tomatoes,peas,golden wax or green beans,carrots,corn.Can I plant any other vegetables at this time without the frost getting to these vegetables. > Where do I go to purchase these seeds as I don't want to run out of time if I have to order the seeds,would Home Depot of Walmart carry these seeds? >Ken Boswell From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net Mon Sep 15 16:19:47 2003 From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 09:19:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Eggplant References: <001b01c37b8e$f5b10f20$16849e40@stewart> Message-ID: <002301c37ba5$338636c0$7a53530c@olin> Most eggplant skins are bitter (at least to me). Try slicing, then salt the slices and let it set for an hour or so, then rinse off with water. Draws out the bitterness. Bitterness in vegetables is usually a sign of stress. The plants may do okay in the heat but the fruit still suffers from heat stress. You should be getting new blossoms and new fruit with the cooler weather that not be so bitter. Transplanting February should not be a problem. - only gets off to a slower start. There are more than 25 different varieties of eggplant. There is a green-striped variety. May have been impure seed (cross pollination). Olin ----- Original Message -----From: "Starlene Stewart" To: > My eggplant plants (6) actually thrived through the summer. I planted > Ichiban transplants back in mid-February but I think I stunted their growth > initially since the CE's recommended date for transplanting is March 1st. > > Here's the problem... I've not gotten even one edible eggplant. They all > start out nice and purple, but as they grow (even when only about two inches > long) they are striped with light green. I have tried eating these, but they > are bitter. > > Any ideas what can be done to prevent the bitterness? Could it be my soil > missing something? > > Thanks in advance, > Starlene > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From bobgood32@cox.net Mon Sep 15 21:24:36 2003 From: bobgood32@cox.net (bobgood32@cox.net) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 14:24:36 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309152124.h8FLOaZr019996@Ag.arizona.edu> I have orange and grapefruit trees in my small urban yard. I have much of the crop destroyed by birds. When the trees were smaller I netted but now this is cumbersome. I have an owl and have used home made reflective strips but nothing seems to help. What can you suggest From domebuilder1@netzero.net Mon Sep 15 21:53:10 2003 From: domebuilder1@netzero.net (domebuilder1@netzero.net) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 14:53:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309152153.h8FLrAZr025806@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a 20 foot high palm tree which was doing quite well until recently when it's branches started drooping ( even the new top center branch which bent in half although still green). Several of the lower branches have turned half brown. All the branches look sickly. Could I have screwed up the watering time ( too much-too little). Please advise. Thank you From sbarvian1@cableaz.com Mon Sep 15 21:33:09 2003 From: sbarvian1@cableaz.com (Scott Barvian) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 14:33:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Lantana not blooming Message-ID: <002601c37bd0$f55358c0$2824a8c0@lbmelman> >> Too much water and or fertilizer will cause a lack of blooms on lantana. >> If you are watering more often then once per week or 10 days in summer >> it is too often. I have told this to many people. Lantana, like Bougainvillea, seem to "thrive on neglect". However, I have also noticed that Lantana seem to put on a flush of bloom after being trimmed, or after getting an unusually deep watering (if they are otherwise being kept "dry"). So, I wonder... perhaps they also bloom as a reaction to "shock" - a change in their normal routine? From watsontl@mindspring.com Tue Sep 16 05:07:09 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 22:07:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Iris Care References: <200309151444.h8FEidZr023526@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <003d01c37c10$6245ac00$f930b83f@S0029317241> http://www.tucsoniris.org/ http://www.suncountryiris.org/ The best answer I can give is the pair of links above. Both have iris care information for desert environments. The top one would be best if you are in or around Tucson, the bottom is for the Phoenix metro area. In either case, we are quickly coming up on the right time of year to dig and divide irises, so your question is timely. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, September 15, 2003 7:44 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I would like information on iris. I have some in pots. Possibly they are too crowded. Should the leaves be cut back at this time? Should they be separated? > Thanks Margaret > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From watsontl@mindspring.com Tue Sep 16 05:02:27 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 22:02:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Lantana not blooming References: <002601c37bd0$f55358c0$2824a8c0@lbmelman> Message-ID: <003801c37c0f$ba646080$f930b83f@S0029317241> I believe lantana flowers appear on new growth. A healthy plant of that type will respond to trimming by producing a flush of new growth, and so there's a good chance you would increase for a time the number of flowers. The same sort of thing happens when a plant suddenly finds itself with abundant water after a drought. So you may be on to something. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Barvian" To: Cc: Sent: Monday, September 15, 2003 2:33 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Lantana not blooming > >> Too much water and or fertilizer will cause a lack of blooms on lantana. > >> If you are watering more often then once per week or 10 days in summer > >> it is too often. > > I have told this to many people. Lantana, like Bougainvillea, > seem to "thrive on neglect". > > However, I have also noticed that Lantana seem to put on a > flush of bloom after being trimmed, or after getting an > unusually deep watering (if they are otherwise being kept > "dry"). So, I wonder... perhaps they also bloom as a reaction > to "shock" - a change in their normal routine? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From passport43@uswest.net Tue Sep 16 04:48:11 2003 From: passport43@uswest.net (Ralph Smith) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 21:48:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] FW: Caterpillars on Texas Mountain Laurel Message-ID: <002201c37c0d$bb645640$6501a8c0@ralph> Mr. Rod McKusick, Thank you, I will try that. The caterpillars seem to re appear about a month after I have sprayed in the past. Is there any systemic insecticide that I can use? Are there eggs that I am missing? Again, I thank you for your very prompt reply. You have a great week.... Regards, Ralph -----Original Message----- From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net [mailto:rodmmcq6@highstream.net] Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2003 11:42 AM To: Passport43@qwest.net Cc: arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu Subject: Caterpillars on Texas Mountain Laurel If there are not too many caterpillars pick them off and stomp them. If the number is great an insecticide called " BT " ( Bacillus thuringensis) should do the job. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: Passport43@qwest.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Sunday, September 14, 2003 6:53 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Hello, > >I have a problem with caterpillars on Sophora secundiflora (Texas >Mountain Laurel) I have sprayed with insecticide and have had no real success. What would you recommend that could be used to control these pests? > >Thank you for your time and hopefully help with this problem. Ralph > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From jamie123@bigfoot.com Tue Sep 16 04:26:08 2003 From: jamie123@bigfoot.com (Jamie the Gardner) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 21:26:08 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200309151820.h8FIKPZr009325@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: I don't know about rattlesnakes but in Washington state I drove a family of skunks out of my detached garage using mothballs. -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of jansisaz@aol.com Sent: Monday, September 15, 2003 11:20 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We come from Montana and I was wondering if you have heard this before. Some homeowners to keep rattlesnakes away from their homes and gardens would put mothballs in carton that they had poked holes in and set them around their homes. Do you know if this is a hoax or if maybe it actually works. Thanks _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From jamie123@bigfoot.com Tue Sep 16 04:24:01 2003 From: jamie123@bigfoot.com (Jamie the Gardner) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 21:24:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200309151907.h8FJ7DZr020599@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: I've lived in Phoenix for 2 years and never seen a scorpion. I'd wait until I knew I had a scorpion problem. -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Dandylyn@aol.com Sent: Monday, September 15, 2003 12:07 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have just moved here from Chicago and there are so many "bug" experts here! (exterminators) What do we really need to do to keep scorpions at bay? Some exterminators spray inside and outside every month. Some leave granuals outside. Who's right and what chemicals should we agree to having them use? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From watsontl@mindspring.com Tue Sep 16 04:58:54 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 21:58:54 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200309151907.h8FJ7DZr020599@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <002501c37c0f$3b823ad0$f930b83f@S0029317241> All I've ever done is pay attention to keeping the yard clean, and I've yet to see a scorpion on my property in Tucson. Doesn't meant they aren't here, of course, but they need places to hide and a clean yard doesn't give them much to work with. We use exterminators only for termite control. I knew someone in Phoenix who allowed carob tree seed pods to accumulate and when these were finally raked up there were scorpions all over the place. By the way, do you know for certain you have a scorpion problem? Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, September 15, 2003 12:07 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > We have just moved here from Chicago and there are so many "bug" experts here! (exterminators) What do we really need to do to keep scorpions at bay? Some exterminators spray inside and outside every month. Some leave granuals outside. Who's right and what chemicals should we agree to having them use? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From custerd@fm.arizona.edu Tue Sep 16 18:48:24 2003 From: custerd@fm.arizona.edu (custerd@fm.arizona.edu) Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 11:48:24 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309161848.h8GImOZr009557@Ag.arizona.edu> I have an Italian Cypress that has turned brown. I have about 6 of them approx 30 ft tall. All the rest are doing o.k. except one. What can I do to bring life back into it? From watsontl@mindspring.com Tue Sep 16 17:50:25 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (watsontl@mindspring.com) Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 11:50:25 -0600 (GMT-06:00) Subject: [Arid_gardener] FW: Caterpillars on Texas Mountain Laurel Message-ID: <15739895.1063734625918.JavaMail.root@wamui06.slb.atl.earthlink.net> Ralph, Could you briefly describe the caterpillars you've been seeing? Tom -----Original Message----- From: Ralph Smith Sent: Sep 15, 2003 10:48 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] FW: Caterpillars on Texas Mountain Laurel Mr. Rod McKusick, Thank you, I will try that. The caterpillars seem to re appear about a month after I have sprayed in the past. Is there any systemic insecticide that I can use? Are there eggs that I am missing? Again, I thank you for your very prompt reply. You have a great week.... Regards, Ralph -----Original Message----- From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net [mailto:rodmmcq6@highstream.net] Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2003 11:42 AM To: Passport43@qwest.net Cc: arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu Subject: Caterpillars on Texas Mountain Laurel If there are not too many caterpillars pick them off and stomp them. If the number is great an insecticide called " BT " ( Bacillus thuringensis) should do the job. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: Passport43@qwest.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Sunday, September 14, 2003 6:53 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Hello, > >I have a problem with caterpillars on Sophora secundiflora (Texas >Mountain Laurel) I have sprayed with insecticide and have had no real success. What would you recommend that could be used to control these pests? > >Thank you for your time and hopefully help with this problem. Ralph > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From GACarmack@aol.com Tue Sep 16 16:23:50 2003 From: GACarmack@aol.com (GACarmack@aol.com) Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 12:23:50 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] lantana Message-ID: <11d.2608e018.2c989316@aol.com> --part1_11d.2608e018.2c989316_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have 2 different types of trailing lantana, one is purple and one is yellow. My neighbor pointed out last year that one blooms during the summer and one blooms during the winter/spring. I hadn't noticed, but now I do and she is right. I don't know if that is part of the problem but I wanted to share this for those that might not know. Thanks. Gail --part1_11d.2608e018.2c989316_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have 2 different types of trailing lantana, one is p= urple and one is yellow.  My neighbor pointed out last year that one bl= ooms during the summer and one blooms during the winter/spring.  I hadn= 't noticed, but now I do and she is right.  I don't know if that is par= t of the problem but I wanted to share this for those that might not know.&n= bsp; Thanks. Gail --part1_11d.2608e018.2c989316_boundary-- From GACarmack@aol.com Tue Sep 16 16:22:13 2003 From: GACarmack@aol.com (GACarmack@aol.com) Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 12:22:13 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rattlesnakes Message-ID: --part1_c5.38110a12.2c9892b5_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Regarding the question about using moth balls. You could likely ask the Garden Guy from Channel 3. I would think he would know the answer. His website is gardenguy.com. Good luck. Gail --part1_c5.38110a12.2c9892b5_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Regarding the question about using moth balls.  Y= ou could likely ask the Garden Guy from Channel 3.  I would think he wo= uld know the answer.  His website is gardengu= y.com.  Good luck.  Gail --part1_c5.38110a12.2c9892b5_boundary-- From Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com Tue Sep 16 14:37:41 2003 From: Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com (Zelhart Alan-rpcs30) Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 07:37:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B9930707151EAA@az33exm25.corp.mot.com> I can top that ;) I've lived here 27 years and never seen a scorpion except at the zoo. I've never seen a rattle snake yet either (except at the zoo). But please do not take that as a complaint. I'm quite happy with my record!!! ;) -- Chat with you later, Alan -- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ----- Alan Zelhart gizmoaz@cox.net Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- The name is Mail ... E Mail -----Original Message----- From: Jamie the Gardner [mailto:jamie123@bigfoot.com] Sent: Monday, September 15, 2003 9:24 PM To: Dandylyn@aol.com; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I've lived in Phoenix for 2 years and never seen a scorpion. I'd wait until I knew I had a scorpion problem. -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Dandylyn@aol.com Sent: Monday, September 15, 2003 12:07 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have just moved here from Chicago and there are so many "bug" experts here! (exterminators) What do we really need to do to keep scorpions at bay? Some exterminators spray inside and outside every month. Some leave granuals outside. Who's right and what chemicals should we agree to having them use? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From KathyScudder@aol.com Tue Sep 16 15:05:28 2003 From: KathyScudder@aol.com (KathyScudder@aol.com) Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 08:05:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309161505.h8GF5SZr018986@Ag.arizona.edu> I'm seeing a milky white sustance on a couple of my desert plants. Can you tell me what this is and if it's necessary to do anything about it? Thanks much! From brobinson111@hotmail.com Tue Sep 16 15:15:38 2003 From: brobinson111@hotmail.com (brobinson111@hotmail.com) Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 08:15:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309161515.h8GFFcZr020945@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like some small cascading plants to be placed on a French garden cart for fall. What do you recommend> Thank you! From bmovie_1999@yahoo.com Tue Sep 16 20:47:02 2003 From: bmovie_1999@yahoo.com (Tom G.) Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 13:47:02 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Blood orange question Message-ID: <20030916204702.50754.qmail@web41302.mail.yahoo.com> Dear Sir: I read a few posts you have made saying the Salustiana was the blood orange variety that most consistantly produced a red flesh in the fruit. I have not been able to find these anywhere. Do you know of a nursery in the valley that carries these? Thanks, Tom G. - Mesa __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com From brettrv@hotmail.com Tue Sep 16 21:11:59 2003 From: brettrv@hotmail.com (brettrv@hotmail.com) Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 14:11:59 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309162111.h8GLBxZr009261@Ag.arizona.edu> When is the best time to plant iris bulbs this fall? What type of soil is needed and what is the procedure? From sallybreyer@hotmail.com Tue Sep 16 21:22:53 2003 From: sallybreyer@hotmail.com (Sally Breyer) Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 14:22:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Geraniums Message-ID:

Hi,
Months ago I inquired about bringing my Geraniums indoors for the summer.  I waited until the end of June before bringing them indoors.  They took no time to recover from the change and started putting out flowers after just a month.  I have them in a East facing window. 
Sally Breyer

Get 10MB of e-mail storage! Sign up for Hotmail Extra Storage. From rodmmcq6@highstream.net Tue Sep 16 22:36:29 2003 From: rodmmcq6@highstream.net (rodmmcq6@highstream.net) Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 15:36:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Myoporum dying Message-ID: <004d01c37ca3$012c4da0$c4a9db43@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_004A_01C37C68.4C62EB20 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I assume that you are talking about Myoporum parvifolium, a ground = cover. It is the only one of several species that will grow in the low = desert.=20 As myoporum grows it requires more water, if you have not changed the = amount of water applied that may be the cause of the dying shoots. = Another possible cause of the dying shoots could be if there has been = foot traffic over the plant the shoots will break off quite easily. Myoporium unless fertilized regularly will start to look pretty ragged. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ------=_NextPart_000_004A_01C37C68.4C62EB20 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I assume that you are talking about Myoporum = parvifolium, a=20 ground cover. It is the only one of several species that will grow in = the low=20 desert. 
 
As myoporum grows it requires more water, if you = have not=20 changed the amount of water applied that may be the cause of the dying = shoots.=20 Another possible cause of the dying shoots could be if there has = been foot=20 traffic over the plant the shoots will break off quite = easily.
Myoporium unless fertilized  regularly will = start to look=20 pretty ragged.
 
Good luck.
 
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
------=_NextPart_000_004A_01C37C68.4C62EB20-- From Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com Tue Sep 16 21:39:55 2003 From: Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com (Zelhart Alan-rpcs30) Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 14:39:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Blood orange question Message-ID: <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B9930707151EFC@az33exm25.corp.mot.com> I'm sorry, I forgot the link to their citrus ratings. See below: -----Original Message----- From: Zelhart Alan-rpcs30 Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2003 2:36 PM To: 'Tom G.'; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] Blood orange question Tom, Are you sure you want Salustiana? From everyone I've talked to the best Blood Orange for metro-Phoenix is the Sanguinelli. It came highly recommended by "Greenfield Citrus". One of the oldest citrus nurseries in Arizona, as I recall. Below is a link to their ratings on the various blood oranges. http://www.greenfieldcitrus.com/orange.htm I purchased one from them almost two years ago. It will have fruit for the first time this year. I anxiously await for them to become ripe so that I can savor them! -- Chat with you later, Alan -- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ----- Alan Zelhart gizmoaz@cox.net Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- -----Original Message----- From: Tom G. [mailto:bmovie_1999@yahoo.com] Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2003 1:47 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Blood orange question Dear Sir: I read a few posts you have made saying the Salustiana was the blood orange variety that most consistantly produced a red flesh in the fruit. I have not been able to find these anywhere. Do you know of a nursery in the valley that carries these? Thanks, Tom G. - Mesa __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From watsontl@mindspring.com Tue Sep 16 21:51:12 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (watsontl@mindspring.com) Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 15:51:12 -0600 (GMT-06:00) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <21629158.1063749072486.JavaMail.root@wamui03.slb.atl.earthlink.net> Need a bit more information to make a guess at what's going on. Is this material sticky? Is it associated with wounds in the plants? If you wipe it away, does the plant look as if it's been harmed by this material? What are the names of the plants affected? -----Original Message----- From: KathyScudder@aol.com Sent: Sep 16, 2003 9:05 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I'm seeing a milky white sustance on a couple of my desert plants. Can you tell me what this is and if it's necessary to do anything about it? Thanks much! _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com Tue Sep 16 21:31:54 2003 From: Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com (Zelhart Alan-rpcs30) Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 14:31:54 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Blood orange question Message-ID: <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B9930707151EFA@az33exm25.corp.mot.com> Tom, Are you sure you want Salustiana? From everyone I've talked to the best Blood Orange for metro-Phoenix is the Sanguinelli. It came highly recommended by "Greenfield Citrus". One of the oldest citrus nurseries in Arizona, as I recall. Below is a link to their ratings on the various blood oranges. I purchased one from them almost two years ago. It will have fruit for the first time this year. I anxiously await for them to become ripe so that I can savor them! -- Chat with you later, Alan -- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ----- Alan Zelhart gizmoaz@cox.net Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- -----Original Message----- From: Tom G. [mailto:bmovie_1999@yahoo.com] Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2003 1:47 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Blood orange question Dear Sir: I read a few posts you have made saying the Salustiana was the blood orange variety that most consistantly produced a red flesh in the fruit. I have not been able to find these anywhere. Do you know of a nursery in the valley that carries these? Thanks, Tom G. - Mesa __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sejensen@email.arizona.edu Tue Sep 16 21:25:47 2003 From: sejensen@email.arizona.edu (sejensen@email.arizona.edu) Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 14:25:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] compost In-Reply-To: <200309162019.h8GKJlZr028548@Ag.arizona.edu> References: <200309162019.h8GKJlZr028548@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <1063747547.bc0c4d9d6dce7@www.email.arizona.edu> I'm starting a compost pile and finding that there are about a billion different methods -- and most of them seem like an unreasonable amount of work. Does anyone have local (s. Arizona) experience in composting with lots of mesquite pods and some kitchen (vegetable, eggshell) waste? Does it work with a high proportion of pods, or do I need to add something else? And how do I keep them from sprouting? Thanks, Sara Jensen From rodmcq6@highstream.net Wed Sep 17 00:12:41 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 17:12:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Italian Cypress turning brown Message-ID: <001501c37cb0$705039a0$5904e043@ibmbna6040> Italian Cypress are quite drought tolerant but still require periodic deep watering especially since we have just gone through one of the hottest summers on record. If you are using a drip system be sure that the dripper is not plugged. Also check for spider mites which can cause the foliage to brown. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: custerd@fm.arizona.edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Tuesday, September 16, 2003 1:13 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I have an Italian Cypress that has turned brown. I have about 6 of them approx 30 ft tall. All the rest are doing o.k. except one. What can I do to bring life back into it? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From mongotu@cox.net Tue Sep 16 20:45:12 2003 From: mongotu@cox.net (Lois Greer) Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 20:45:12 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mothballs and Rattlesnakes Message-ID: <20030917034314.RRWT9283.fed1mtao06.cox.net@pavilion> If I had snakes, I gess I'd try anything. But! Mothball fumes are extremely toxic to humans (and I should imagine animals). I once used them in a planter box to keep cats out, and I was told their use was dangerous. I switched to medicated foot powder which worked just as well. Lois From steveazroses@yahoo.com Wed Sep 17 03:18:08 2003 From: steveazroses@yahoo.com (Steve Sheard) Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 20:18:08 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] compost In-Reply-To: <1063747547.bc0c4d9d6dce7@www.email.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20030917031808.84561.qmail@web41704.mail.yahoo.com> --0-1335798669-1063768688=:81471 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Dear Sarah, I use "recycled City Trash Bins". I use 4 of these Tempe 50-gal bins. 3 I have further modified to have about 12 x 2" holes in the sides, plus a 18" x 18" door in the bottom. I have them on one of my watering timers so they get a sprinkled every 3rd day in winter, every day in summer for about 5 minutes. I feed from the top making sure no layer is more than 1"-2" thick trying to alternate contents, leaves, grass, rose dead head cuttings, kitchen waist (no animal products). To get air in, I have 2" PVC pipe down the middle that has many 1/2" holes drilled in it to get air into the center, I also use an old broom handle and poke it in through the side holes and down the sides about every two weeks. I pull from the door in the bottom about every 6 weeks and add the damp content to my 4th bin for drying. I make about 150 to 200 Gal of dried compost a year. I do not know about the percentage of mesquite pods to put in - if you put them through a shredder they would work the same as dried leaves. Regards Steve Sheard (Not a Master Gardener) sejensen@email.arizona.edu wrote: I'm starting a compost pile and finding that there are about a billion different methods -- and most of them seem like an unreasonable amount of work. Does anyone have local (s. Arizona) experience in composting with lots of mesquite pods and some kitchen (vegetable, eggshell) waste? Does it work with a high proportion of pods, or do I need to add something else? And how do I keep them from sprouting? Thanks, Sara Jensen _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software --0-1335798669-1063768688=:81471 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Dear Sarah,
I use "recycled City Trash Bins".

I use 4 of these Tempe 50-gal bins.

3 I have further modified to have about 12 x 2" holes in the sides, plus a 18" x 18" door in the bottom.

I have them on one of my watering timers so they get a sprinkled every 3rd day in winter, every day in summer for about 5 minutes.

I feed from the top making sure no layer is more than 1"-2" thick trying to alternate contents, leaves, grass, rose dead head cuttings, kitchen waist (no animal products).

To get air in, I have 2" PVC pipe down the middle that has many 1/2" holes drilled in it to get air into the center, I also use an old broom handle and poke it in through the side holes and down the sides about every two weeks.

I pull from the door in the bottom about every 6 weeks and add the damp content to my 4th bin for drying.

I make about 150 to 200 Gal of dried compost a year.

I do not know about the percentage of mesquite pods to put in - if you put them through a shredder they would work the same as dried leaves.

Regards

Steve Sheard

(Not a Master Gardener)


sejensen@email.arizona.edu wrote:
I'm starting a compost pile and finding that there are about a billion different
methods -- and most of them seem like an unreasonable amount of work. Does
anyone have local (s. Arizona) experience in composting with lots of mesquite
pods and some kitchen (vegetable, eggshell) waste? Does it work with a high
proportion of pods, or do I need to add something else? And how do I keep them
from sprouting?

Thanks,
Sara Jensen

_______________________________________________
Arid_gardener mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener

Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software --0-1335798669-1063768688=:81471-- From bubbaa1212@cox.com Wed Sep 17 01:45:27 2003 From: bubbaa1212@cox.com (bubbaa1212@cox.com) Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 18:45:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309170145.h8H1jRZr027207@Ag.arizona.edu> Do you have anything on "growing" earth worms? Thanks From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net Wed Sep 17 06:05:57 2003 From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 23:05:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200309161505.h8GF5SZr018986@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <008901c37ce2$0a1b99e0$3053530c@olin> ----- Original Message ----- From: > I'm seeing a milky white sustance on a couple of my desert plants. Can you tell me what this is and if it's necessary to do anything about it? Cochineal scale is pretty common on prickly pear cacti. There is a photo of it about 2/3 down the page at http://www.livingdesert.org/educate.htm There is a red insect under the white protective substance. If you determine it is cochineal scale, the best control is to wash it off with a strong water spray from a garden hose. This needs to be repeated every week or so or the infected part of the plant will die. Olin From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net Wed Sep 17 05:52:31 2003 From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 22:52:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [Arid_gardener]When to plant bulbs (longish) References: <200309162111.h8GLBxZr009261@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <008801c37ce2$090b8970$3053530c@olin> ----- Original Message ----- From: > When is the best time to plant iris bulbs this fall? What type of soil is needed and what is the procedure? Following is an article by Bert Konzal which gives some practical advice for the Phoenix area: ====================================================== Bulbs for Spring Blooms By Bert Konzal Now is the time to prepare your soil for bulb planting. A little preparation now will produce healthier growth and more beautiful flowers in spring. Bulbs like good drainage and organic matter. It’s best to spade in about four to six inches of organic material along with a low nitrogen fertilizer such as 5-10-10 which is rich in phosphorus and potassium. Bulbs need phosphorus and potassium to keep them strong and healthy. Water the area well and allow it to rest before planting your bulbs. With our warm temperatures it is best not to rush mother nature. Buy bulbs as soon as they are available and store them in a cool spot until planting time. The largest bulbs will produce the best flowers. The following favorites do very well in the valley: Ranunculus and Anemone: Plant about November 1st, about 2 inches deep and about 10 inches apart. Plant ranunculus with claws pointing down and anemone with point down. Keep moist but not wet. Daffodils or Narcissus: Plant about November 1st, about six inches deep and about six to nine inches apart. Plant with pointed end up. Dutch Iris: Plant about November 1st, about five to six inches deep and about six to eight inches apart. Tulips: Plant tulip bulbs about around the middle of November, but first you must keep them in your refrigerator for six to eight weeks so they will think they are up North. It’s best to store in paper sack, in vegetable drawer. Plant bulbs about six inches deep and about six to nine inches apart. Hyacinths: Plant about November 1st, about six inches deep, about six to nine inches apart. Hyacinths, like tulips, must be kept in the refrigerator in order to have success. Hyacinths do well also in special hyacinth water jars. Freesia: Plant about November 1st, about six inches deep, and about six to nine inches apart. Freesia, like all bulbs, like morning sun and afternoon shade if possible. Gladiolus; Plant about November 1st, about six inches deep and about six to nine inches apart. Gladiolus do well with morning sun and afternoon shade. Petals may burn in the sun especially if corms are planted in December or January. Asiatic Lilies: Plant about November 1st, about six inches deep and about twelve to fifteen inches apart. Do best when they get morning sun and afternoon shade. Amaryllis: Plant bulbs about November 1st to the 15th , require morning sun and afternoon shade. Plant with about two thirds of the bulb above the surface of the ground. The larger the bulb the bigger the flowers. Please note that most of the above mentioned bulbs, corms, or fleshy root do well in containers as well as in the ground. In containers use a good quality potting soil instead of Arizona soil. From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net Wed Sep 17 05:27:09 2003 From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 22:27:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Scorpions References: <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B9930707151EAA@az33exm25.corp.mot.com> Message-ID: <004401c37cdc$5fc12a50$3053530c@olin> I've lived here since March 1966 and I have seen quite a few scorpions, the latest was Monday. I was removing some 15 foot tall Yucca Gloriosa plants that had lots of side shoots with dead leaves (blades) in the lower 5 feet and it crawled out of that. It was one of the larger varieties, about 2 inches long. Probably a Giant Hairy - I didn't pay much attention to it. It was well away from the house and I just shooed it away and continued working. As I understand it, there are several small (1 inch) yellowish types with a dull straw color. One of these has a pretty seriously poisonous venom. As I recall from an entomology course where we also covered the arachnids, the poisonous one is a "Bark" scorpion that can be identified by a saw-tooth-like projection at its anal vent - something I have never confirmed. Actually, I have never seen one of the straw-colored ones - just the Striped-tailed and Giant Hairy types. Scorpions are nocturnal and lurk quietly in dark areas waiting for their unsuspecting prey to come close. So I believe there are still quite a few around but are seldom seen by humans. Might be a good idea to do a search for scorpions using a "black light" to determine if there is a problem before spraying chemicals. The scorpions are phosphorescent and will glow when exposed to the uv rays from a black light. Some 30 years ago when we relatively new to the valley and still worried about such things we would hunt scorpions at night using black light and we did find quite a few. Olin Miller ----- Original Message ----- From: "Zelhart Alan-rpcs30" > I can top that ;) I've lived here 27 years and never seen a scorpion except at the zoo (...)>Alan > Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 > Alan Zelhart > gizmoaz@cox.net > -----Original Message----- > From: Jamie the Gardner [mailto:jamie123@bigfoot.com] > Sent: Monday, September 15, 2003 9:24 PM > To: Dandylyn@aol.com; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu > Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I've lived in Phoenix for 2 years and never seen a scorpion. I'd wait until > I knew I had a scorpion problem. > > -----Original Message----- > From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu > [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Dandylyn@aol.com > Sent: Monday, September 15, 2003 12:07 PM > To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > We have just moved here from Chicago and there are so many "bug" experts > here! (exterminators) What do we really need to do to keep scorpions at > bay? Some exterminators spray inside and outside every month. Some leave > granuals outside. Who's right and what chemicals should we agree to having > them use? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From watsontl@mindspring.com Wed Sep 17 04:58:29 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 21:58:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] compost References: <200309162019.h8GKJlZr028548@Ag.arizona.edu> <1063747547.bc0c4d9d6dce7@www.email.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <003b01c37cd8$5715ea20$6e68b83f@S0029317241> I am currently using a pair of bins made of old lumber, 4x4x3, and fill them with yard waste that is largely made up of mesquite pods, with leaves from mesquite, privet, and oleander. I dump it all into one bin, and while it decomposes add my kitchen scraps and any new stuff out of the vegetable garden to the empty bin. I have a set of five equally spaced 2" pvc pipes stuck into it, with holes drilled in the bottom two feet of each pipe; this provides air top the deeper parts of the pile. I moisten it as needed, which isn't as often as would have expected. When it stops settling visibly (usually a couple of months), I pitchfork the whole thing over into the other bin, on top of the kitchen scraps, etc. (The scraps and such go into the now empty bin, and the vent pipes are set into the one just filled.) In a couple more months I can harvest compost (the kitchen scraps are gone without a trace, eggshells and all), by which time I usually need to rake up the yard again, giving me plenty of new material to work with. I have found that mesquite pods, while a bit slow to break down, do so well enough without chipping or shredding. Most of the seeds are killed by the composting, but I always get a few seedlings, but these are easily recognized and pulled. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2003 2:25 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] compost > I'm starting a compost pile and finding that there are about a billion different > methods -- and most of them seem like an unreasonable amount of work. Does > anyone have local (s. Arizona) experience in composting with lots of mesquite > pods and some kitchen (vegetable, eggshell) waste? Does it work with a high > proportion of pods, or do I need to add something else? And how do I keep them > from sprouting? > > Thanks, > Sara Jensen > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net Wed Sep 17 05:39:55 2003 From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 22:39:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200309170145.h8H1jRZr027207@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <004b01c37cde$25c5a680$3053530c@olin> If it's vermicomposting that you are interests you, there is a good article on the topic at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/0803/worms.html The best worms for this are the red "Eisenia fetida " but they need to be contained in a bin and will not survive out in the garden. For the garden variety earthworm, I don't exactly understand where they come from but if you keep lots of organic matter in the soil and don't let the soil get too dry, they will come and thrive. Or you could get a jump start by importing them from another site. ----- Original Message -----From: > Do you have anything on "growing" earth worms? From gwright@Ag.arizona.edu Wed Sep 17 15:51:01 2003 From: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu (Glenn C. Wright) Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 08:51:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Blood oranges Message-ID: <5.1.1.6.2.20030917083554.027819e0@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_404086812==.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Hello: Regarding oranges, it is important to note that Salustiana is not a blood orange. It is a normal (blonde) orange, very highly prized in both Spain and Mexico, and second most important in Spain to the Valencia. Salustiana is similar to the "Arizona Sweet" sold locally. It is virtually seedless, productive and is good for both eating fresh and for juicing, beginning in late November, and continuing through early February. It also has excellent flavor here in Yuma; we have several Salustiana trees within the variety block, and it is one of my favorites. You can get budwood of Salustiana by contacting me (see address and phone below). Sanguinelli is an excellent blood orange, it colors up well in the Phoenix area. However, I believe that Tarocco is better tasting. While Sanguinelli will color better, Tarocco will have specks or streaks of color; it requires more cold than we get normally to become completely colored. Best regards, GCW Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D. Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist University of Arizona - Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center 2186 W. County 15th Street Somerton, AZ 85350 Phone: 928-726-0458 FAX: 928-726-1363 e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu --=====================_404086812==.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Hello:
Regarding  oranges, it is important to note that Salustiana is not a blood orange.  It is a normal (blonde) orange, very highly prized in both Spain and Mexico, and second most important in Spain to the Valencia.  Salustiana is similar to the "Arizona Sweet" sold locally.  It is virtually seedless, productive and is good for both eating fresh and for juicing, beginning in late November, and continuing through early February.  It also has excellent flavor here in Yuma; we have several Salustiana trees within the variety block, and it is one of my favorites.  You can get budwood of Salustiana by contacting me (see address and phone below).

Sanguinelli is an excellent blood orange, it colors up well in the Phoenix area.  However, I believe that Tarocco is better tasting.  While Sanguinelli will color better, Tarocco will have specks or streaks of color; it requires more cold than we get normally to become completely colored.

Best regards,
GCW

Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D.
Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist
University of Arizona - Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center
2186 W. County 15th Street
Somerton, AZ 85350
Phone: 928-726-0458
FAX: 928-726-1363
e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu --=====================_404086812==.ALT-- From P. Torres" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C37D06.A6FD4DC0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Dear Arid,=20 I was on vacation in Mexico when I fist saw the Bouganvillia, can you = tell me what kinfd of plant this is, what the official name , whether it = grows in the tropics and where I can order these kind of plants. I thank you in advance for your help, Regards, Paul Torres ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C37D06.A6FD4DC0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Dear Arid,
 
I was on vacation in Mexico when I fist = saw the=20 Bouganvillia, can you tell me what kinfd of plant this is, what the = official=20 name , whether it grows in the tropics and where I can order these kind = of=20 plants.
 
I thank you in advance for your = help,
 
Regards,
 
Paul Torres
------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C37D06.A6FD4DC0-- From rkgross3@cox.net Wed Sep 17 16:53:07 2003 From: rkgross3@cox.net (Dick Gross) Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 09:53:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] AzCRFG-2003-Fall-Fair Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20030917095247.01f40710@mail.sisna.com> --=====================_4047079==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed ARIZONA RARE FRUIT GROWERS FALL GARDEN FAIR SATURDAY OCTOBER 4, 2003 9am to 2pm LOCATION Subtropical Demonstration Garden University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 EAST BROADWAYPHOENIX, ARIZONA How do you find the place? Enter Broadway Rd from 1-10 exits at 40th St or 48th St Drive on Broadway West from 48thEast from 40th Street The facility is a brick building on the south side of Broadway at the only signal light (43rd Dr.) between 40th St and 48th St A wide variety of tropical and subtropical plant species in various sizes will be for sale. All plants are propagated and grown by members of the Arizona Rare Fruit Growers Club. The Demonstration Garden will show you what will grow in this high desert and member growers will be on hand to explain and demonstrate budding, grafting and the rooting of cuttings. FOR MORE INFORMATION Dick Gross, 623-939-4570, rkgross3@cox.net Carl Denig, 480-730-8423, cdenig@earthlink.net http://home.earthlink.net/~tropicalfruit http://crfg.org/ ARIZONA RARE FRUIT GROWERS FALL GARDEN FAIR SATURDAY OCTOBER 4, 2003 9am to 2pm LOCATION Subtropical Demonstration Garden University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 EAST BROADWAYPHOENIX, ARIZONA How do you find the place? Enter Broadway Rd from 1-10 exits at 40th St or 48th St Drive on Broadway West from 48thEast from 40th Street The facility is a brick building on the south side of Broadway at the only signal light (43rd Dr.) between 40th St and 48th St A wide variety of tropical and subtropical plant species in various sizes will be for sale. All plants are propagated and grown by members of the Arizona Rare Fruit Growers Club. The Demonstration Garden will show you what will grow in this high desert and member growers will be on hand to explain and demonstrate budding, grafting and the rooting of cuttings. FOR MORE INFORMATION Dick Gross, 623-939-4570, rkgross3@cox.net Carl Denig, 480-730-8423, cdenig@earthlink.net http://home.earthlink.net/~tropicalfruit http://crfg.org/ ARIZONA RARE FRUIT GROWERS FALL GARDEN FAIR SATURDAY OCTOBER 4, 2003 9am to 2pm LOCATION Subtropical Demonstration Garden University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 EAST BROADWAYPHOENIX, ARIZONA How do you find the place? Enter Broadway Rd from 1-10 exits at 40th St or 48th St Drive on Broadway West from 48thEast from 40th Street The facility is a brick building on the south side of Broadway at the only signal light (43rd Dr.) between 40th St and 48th St A wide variety of tropical and subtropical plant species in various sizes will be for sale. All plants are propagated and grown by members of the Arizona Rare Fruit Growers Club. The Demonstration Garden will show you what will grow in this high desert and member growers will be on hand to explain and demonstrate budding, grafting and the rooting of cuttings. FOR MORE INFORMATION Dick Gross, 623-939-4570, rkgross3@cox.net Carl Denig, 480-730-8423, cdenig@earthlink.net http://home.earthlink.net/~tropicalfruit http://crfg.org/ --=====================_4047079==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
ARIZONA RARE FRUIT GROWERS

FALL GARDEN FAIR

SATURDAY

OCTOBER 4, 2003 9am to 2pm


LOCATION

Subtropical Demonstration Garden

University of Arizona

Maricopa County Cooperative Extension

4341 EAST BROADWAYPHOENIX, ARIZONA

 

How do you find the place?

Enter Broadway Rd from 

1-10 exits at 40th St or 48th St

Drive on Broadway

West from 48thEast from 40th Street

The facility is a brick building on the south side of Broadway at the only signal light (43rd Dr.)

 between

40th St and 48th St

A wide variety of tropical and subtropical plant species in various sizes will be for sale. All plants are propagated and grown by members of the Arizona Rare Fruit Growers Club. The Demonstration Garden will show you what will grow in this high desert and member growers will be on hand

 to explain and demonstrate  budding, grafting and the rooting of cuttings.

 

FOR MORE INFORMATION

Dick Gross, 623-939-4570, rkgross3@cox.net

Carl Denig, 480-730-8423, cdenig@earthlink.net

http://home.earthlink.net/~tropicalfruit

http://crfg.org/

 

 

 

 

ARIZONA RARE FRUIT GROWERS

FALL GARDEN FAIR

SATURDAY

OCTOBER 4, 2003 9am to 2pm


LOCATION

Subtropical Demonstration Garden

University of Arizona

Maricopa County Cooperative Extension

4341 EAST BROADWAYPHOENIX, ARIZONA

 

How do you find the place?

Enter Broadway Rd from 

1-10 exits at 40th St or 48th St

Drive on Broadway

West from 48thEast from 40th Street

The facility is a brick building on the south side of Broadway at the only signal light (43rd Dr.)

 between

40th St and 48th St

A wide variety of tropical and subtropical plant species in various sizes will be for sale. All plants are propagated and grown by members of the Arizona Rare Fruit Growers Club. The Demonstration Garden will show you what will grow in this high desert and member growers will be on hand

 to explain and demonstrate  budding, grafting and the rooting of cuttings.

 

FOR MORE INFORMATION

Dick Gross, 623-939-4570, rkgross3@cox.net

Carl Denig, 480-730-8423, cdenig@earthlink.net

http://home.earthlink.net/~tropicalfruit

http://crfg.org/ 

 

 

 

 

ARIZONA RARE FRUIT GROWERS

FALL GARDEN FAIR

SATURDAY

OCTOBER 4, 2003 9am to 2pm


LOCATION

Subtropical Demonstration Garden

University of Arizona

Maricopa County Cooperative Extension

4341 EAST BROADWAYPHOENIX, ARIZONA

 

How do you find the place?

Enter Broadway Rd from 

1-10 exits at 40th St or 48th St

Drive on Broadway

West from 48thEast from 40th Street

The facility is a brick building on the south side of Broadway at the only signal light (43rd Dr.)

 between

40th St and 48th St

A wide variety of tropical and subtropical plant species in various sizes will be for sale. All plants are propagated and grown by members of the Arizona Rare Fruit Growers Club. The Demonstration Garden will show you what will grow in this high desert and member growers will be on hand

 to explain and demonstrate  budding, grafting and the rooting of cuttings.

 

FOR MORE INFORMATION

Dick Gross, 623-939-4570, rkgross3@cox.net

Carl Denig, 480-730-8423, cdenig@earthlink.net

http://home.earthlink.net/~tropicalfruit

http://crfg.org/

 

 
 --=====================_4047079==_.ALT-- From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net Wed Sep 17 18:39:44 2003 From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 11:39:44 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re; Scorpions ( & Composting) Message-ID: <000701c37d4b$14a59140$4150530c@olin> ----- Original Message ----- From: > Thanks for your info. The few I have already seen are tiny, straw colored and almost transparent. I couldn't wait to ammend the soil when we moved in so I had ordered a compost bin from the city and started working at that right away. I saw it crawling out of the vent holes. Is composting a mistake here? > Composting is almost always recommended here but one of the best ways to guard against scorpions is to eliminate their habitat which may include eliminating the compost operation. See http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/scorpions/scorpions.html for a good writeup on scorpions in AZ. You can also find lots of other suggestions by googling (use scorpions +control). Olin From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Sep 17 22:44:38 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 22:44:38 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re; Scorpions ( & Composting) Message-ID: You might also want to verify that what you have is a true scorpion and not a pseudoscorpion -- for differences see this earlier posting: FYI -- the insect is a pseudoscorpion >From: steveazroses@yahoo.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 14:00:32 -0700 (MST) > >Looking to identify small bugs on my orange peals sitting in my compost >bins. I thought they may be baby scorpions. 1/8" long, have pincers but no >tail - I understand baby scorpions have a tail but no pincers - am I >wrong? >I can send a picture. The critters pictured are called pseudoscorpions. They are predators of numerous smaller insects, etc., and live in a variety of habitats. They are not scorpions, but an order of beasts similar. They have a poison gland in the moveable finger of the pincers, but they prey of small bugs and could not come cllose to even breaking the skin of people, so no problems there. The question about baby scorpions: they have both a stinger and pincers, but they can't use them when first born. Must stay on mother's back for about two weeks, then they harden and the pincers and sting are useable on prey. >From: "olin" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re; Scorpions ( & Composting) >Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 11:39:44 -0700 > > ----- Original Message ----- From: > > Thanks for your info. The few I have already seen are tiny, straw >colored and almost transparent. I couldn't wait to ammend the soil when >we moved in so I had ordered a compost bin from the city and started >working at that right away. I saw it crawling out of the vent holes. Is >composting a mistake here? > > > Composting is almost always recommended here but one of the best ways >to guard against scorpions is to eliminate their habitat which may >include eliminating the compost operation. See > http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/scorpions/scorpions.html > for a good writeup on scorpions in AZ. You can also find lots of other >suggestions by googling (use scorpions +control). > > Olin > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get 10MB of e-mail storage! Sign up for Hotmail Extra Storage. http://join.msn.com/?PAGE=features/es From Jimrbrownsax@aol.com Thu Sep 18 02:12:31 2003 From: Jimrbrownsax@aol.com (Jimrbrownsax@aol.com) Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 22:12:31 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pecan Tree Problems Message-ID: --part1_a3.48c28b0b.2c9a6e8f_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dear Sir: I have two large pecan trees and each year they get a crop of green pecans and fall off while still green and not ripe. Could you please let me know what the problem could be. Thank you kindly, Jim Brown jimrbrownsax@aol.com --part1_a3.48c28b0b.2c9a6e8f_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Dear Sir:
   I have two large pecan trees and each year they get a crop of green pecans and fall off while still green and not ripe.  Could you pl= ease let me know what the problem could be.
            &nbs= p;            &n= bsp;            =             &nbs= p;            &n= bsp;          Thank you kindly,=
            &nbs= p;            &n= bsp;            =             &nbs= p;            &n= bsp;            =     Jim Brown
       jimrbrownsax@aol.com --part1_a3.48c28b0b.2c9a6e8f_boundary-- From BAILLIED@aol.com Thu Sep 18 14:25:30 2003 From: BAILLIED@aol.com (BAILLIED@aol.com) Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 10:25:30 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Replace St. Augustine grass Message-ID: <16a.23dd2b0f.2c9b1a5a@aol.com> --part1_16a.23dd2b0f.2c9b1a5a_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Due to a multitude of problems, it's time to look for another type of perennial grass. The area is partially shady under a Mimosa tree. Any suggestions for a broad leaf grass to grow in the Phoenix area? --part1_16a.23dd2b0f.2c9b1a5a_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable   Due to a multitude of problems, it's time to lo= ok for another type of perennial grass.  The area is partially shady un= der a Mimosa tree.  Any suggestions for a broad leaf grass to grow in t= he Phoenix area? --part1_16a.23dd2b0f.2c9b1a5a_boundary-- From hgmaz@aol.com Fri Sep 19 01:48:06 2003 From: hgmaz@aol.com (hgmaz@aol.com) Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 18:48:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309190148.h8J1m6Zr028005@Ag.arizona.edu> What is Pearl Scale and how do I treat it. Our lawn is about dead and we think that's what is wrong with it. Any help you can give us will be appreciated. Thanks From jmnave@osb.net Fri Sep 19 01:39:07 2003 From: jmnave@osb.net (Michael Nave) Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 18:39:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Date Palm sources? References: Message-ID: <004701c37e4e$d238ea00$add75142@jmnave> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0044_01C37E14.24706FE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi, Where is a good place to buy date palms in southern AZ? Thanks, Mike ------=_NextPart_000_0044_01C37E14.24706FE0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi,
 
Where is a good place to buy date = palms in=20 southern AZ?
 
Thanks,
 
Mike
------=_NextPart_000_0044_01C37E14.24706FE0-- From GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com Fri Sep 19 03:34:55 2003 From: GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com (GardenerGuy) Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 20:34:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Pearl Scale In-Reply-To: <200309190148.h8J1m6Zr028005@Ag.arizona.edu> References: <200309190148.h8J1m6Zr028005@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3F6A795F.7020903@GardenersCorner.com> The answer to this question was just posted a couple of days ago, see answer below: A. The following letter gives you as much info as is available on the control of pearl scale. Pearl scale are tiny soil borne insects that attach themselves to the roots of hybrid Bermuda grass used as lawns in the Southwest. While in the "pearl" stage the insect is protected by the hard covering that surrounds it. It is only when the insects are in the "crawler" stage and unprotected that they are vulnerable to any means of control. Treatments should be applied from May 15 to the end of June. Symptoms of pearl scale damage appear on actively growing Bermuda hybrid lawns. Generally, small circular patches of dead grass are the first indication that these insects are feeding on the roots. These circular areas gradually increase in size. Samples dug the edges of the circles where the grass is green will reveal the scale insects. When the area is small, the affected sod and soil can be carefully removed and replaced. Be very careful with contaminated soil and the tools used to examine the lawn, as they can contaminate unaffected areas. Samples can be taken to the U of A Cooperative Extension office for free analysis. Sulfur or a sulfur bearing product gives some control by itself. Couple it with an insecticide designed for soil applications on lawns and the control may go up to 60 to 70%. Applications must be made and watered in thoroughly. At the present time the product known as Merit is not labeled for the control of pearl scale. As representatives of the University of Arizona, Master Gardeners cannot legally recommend the use of Merit for this pest. It is illegal to recommend the use of a product for anything that is not included on its label. You can check the Merit product specimen label at http://www.bayerprocentral.com/products/merit/index.html However, homeowners and golf course superintendents have noticed that using Merit for the control of white grubs in turf (which the label lists) has also resulted in a significant control of any pearl scale that might also be present. Common Bermuda seems to tolerate any pearl scale while Dichondra lawns don't seem to be affected. -- -- Chat with you later... Alan ----- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ***** LIVE Garden Chat Now Available ***** ----- Alan Zelhart GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- "I've learned.... That I can't choose how I feel, but I can choose what I do about it. " hgmaz@aol.com wrote: >What is Pearl Scale and how do I treat it. Our lawn is about dead and we think that's what is wrong with it. Any help you can give us will be appreciated. Thanks > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > >. > > > From betket@msn.com Fri Sep 19 06:40:40 2003 From: betket@msn.com (betket@msn.com) Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 23:40:40 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309190640.h8J6eeZr029130@Ag.arizona.edu> what month should bouganvilla be trimmed? how and what do you feed the newly planted ones so they take off quicker? From karlinick@yahoo.com Fri Sep 19 17:05:40 2003 From: karlinick@yahoo.com (karlinick@yahoo.com) Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 10:05:40 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309191705.h8JH5eZr002699@Ag.arizona.edu> Would like to plant year-round green plants in back yard easy to care for . . . what do you suggest?? Also what shade tree?? Thank you!! Barb From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Sep 19 15:46:00 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 15:46:00 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bouganvillia Message-ID: Isn't bougainvillea a beautiful plant! Bougainvillea is the genus (scientific name). There are many species, both vines and shrubs. You are most likely to find many different cultivars of these species for sale in the nursery. It is a native of Brazil but is now grown in warm climates throughout the world. Check your local nurseries to see if they carry the plant or can special order it. On the internet do a search (with an engine like google) for "bougainvillea +nursery" to locate online sources for the plant. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "P. Torres" >Reply-To: "P. Torres" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bouganvillia >Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 10:30:02 -0400 > >Dear Arid, > >I was on vacation in Mexico when I fist saw the Bouganvillia, can you tell >me what kinfd of plant this is, what the official name , whether it grows >in the tropics and where I can order these kind of plants. > >I thank you in advance for your help, > >Regards, > >Paul Torres _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive larger attachments with Hotmail Extra Storage. http://join.msn.com/?PAGE=features/es From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Sep 19 15:36:00 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 15:36:00 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Date Palm sources? Message-ID: A quick "google" search shows White Tank Palms in Phoenix (wholesale) and Civano Nursery in Tucson carry the landscape pygmy date palms. If you want to grow palms for date production, I did not find a local source. I suggest you contact the Cooperative Extension Office in Yuma for more information. Yuma County Cooperative Extension 2200 W. 28th Street, Suite 102 Yuma, AZ 85364-6928 Phone: (928) 726-3904 Fax: (928) 726-8472 Linda Drew Master GArdener >From: "Michael Nave" >To: >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Date Palm sources? >Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 18:39:07 -0700 > >Hi, > >Where is a good place to buy date palms in southern AZ? > >Thanks, > >Mike _________________________________________________________________ Get a FREE computer virus scan online from McAfee. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 From VanzantPN@logcom.usmc.mil Fri Sep 19 17:14:04 2003 From: VanzantPN@logcom.usmc.mil (Vanzant GS09 Pamela N) Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 13:14:04 -0400 Subject: [Arid_gardener] rye grass Message-ID: This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C37ED1.6D767410 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I read the note about rye grass where you said to buy the perennial instead of annual. I just bought the annual rye grass. I have centipede in my front yard and dirt on side and back. Plan to put Bermuda down in the spring. Will it hurt to put this annual rye grass down. I bought 200 pounds. My yard is 130X250 but my house (3100 sq ft) and a pool with a deck are also on this. Is this enough. Is there a certain way I need to do this. Can I put this rye right in with the existing grass in the front? Thanks for your help. Pam ------_=_NextPart_001_01C37ED1.6D767410 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable rye grass

I read the note about rye grass where = you said to buy the perennial = instead of annual.  I just = bought the annual rye grass.  I have centipede in my front yard = and dirt on side and back.  Plan to put Bermuda down in the = spring.  Will it hurt to put this annual rye grass down.  I = bought 200 pounds.  My yard is 130X250 but my house (3100 sq ft) = and a pool with a deck are also on this.  Is this enough.  Is = there a certain way I need to do this.  Can I put this rye right = in with the existing grass in the front?

Thanks for your help.

Pam

------_=_NextPart_001_01C37ED1.6D767410-- From mldyge@cox.net Fri Sep 19 19:15:07 2003 From: mldyge@cox.net (mldyge@cox.net) Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 12:15:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309191915.h8JJF7Zr027327@Ag.arizona.edu> Hello I planted a blue potato bush in my flower garden that has become too large for the space. I was wondering if I could transplant it to a better location without killing it. It has been in this spot in my garden for 1 year & 4 months so it is well established. I appreciate any help you can give me. Thank-you. Melody Geary From wahi548@att.net Fri Sep 19 19:16:29 2003 From: wahi548@att.net (wahi548@att.net) Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 12:16:29 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309191916.h8JJGTZr027556@Ag.arizona.edu> I have rodents biting off my AZ sweet oranges at night. Any suggestioons to remove them other than poison bait or traps. Have tried Stickum and in morning found trap twenty feet away with a pile of pellet sized feces. Any suggestions...my tree is near a wall allowing rodents to jump to the tree and not have to climb. From Krulich@aol.com Fri Sep 19 19:29:15 2003 From: Krulich@aol.com (Krulich@aol.com) Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 15:29:15 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] What's burrowing into my soil? Message-ID: <9.19044cdc.2c9cb30b@aol.com> I have some small trees in 5 gallon pots, and I noticed that in each pot there are a few holes around 1/4" in diameter in the soil. Also, the soil is getting pushed out through the drain holes around the bottom. Does anyone know what is causing this? Tom Tucson, AZ From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Sep 19 15:20:11 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 15:20:11 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] bougainvillea pruning Message-ID: Generally, bougainvillea are pruned in the spring (after growth begins in about mid-April) to remove any frost-damaged wood. Some pruning may be necessary in the beginning to train the plant. Supply spring and summer feedings, but keep in mind that overfertilized and overwatered plants bloom little, if at all. Requires little water once established (after one year in the ground). (Duffield & Jones, "Plants For Dry Climates"). Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: betket@msn.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 23:40:40 -0700 (MST) > >what month should bouganvilla be trimmed? how and what do you feed the >newly planted ones so they take off quicker? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get 10MB of e-mail storage! Sign up for Hotmail Extra Storage. http://join.msn.com/?PAGE=features/es From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Sep 19 16:24:56 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 16:24:56 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pecan Tree Problems Message-ID: I don't have personal expereince, but this information comes from the bulletin "Pecans in Arizona": Proper filling is influenced by the following factors: choice of a variety well-adapted to the area maintaining good leaf surface throughout the growing season fertilizing early in the sping with nitrogen and zinc possible repeated applications of zinc through the growing season regular and adequate irrigation water sunlight to all parts of the tree control any leaf diseases control the yellow pecan aphid if it appears Check that you are fulfilling these factors; if you don't think these are the problem, call your local Cooperative Extension office for more assistance. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Jimrbrownsax@aol.com >To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pecan Tree Problems >Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 22:12:31 EDT > >Dear Sir: > I have two large pecan trees and each year they get a crop of >green pecans and fall off while still green and not ripe. Could you please >let me know what the problem could be. > >Thank you kindly, > > Jim Brown > jimrbrownsax@aol.com _________________________________________________________________ Get 10MB of e-mail storage! Sign up for Hotmail Extra Storage. http://join.msn.com/?PAGE=features/es From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Sep 19 16:13:44 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 16:13:44 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Replace St. Augustine grass Message-ID: from Ortho's "All About Lawns": Most turfgrasses are sunlovers. A few species - fine fescue, St. Augustinegrass and Zoysiagrass - are shade tolerant. Some 'shade mixes' include mostly fine fescue, with some Kentucky bluegrass and perennial rye (these probably will not survive in our summers). So...there don't seem to be many options. you could try trimming trees to reduce shade or consider some other groundcover in place of grass. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: BAILLIED@aol.com >To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Replace St. Augustine grass >Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 10:25:30 EDT > > Due to a multitude of problems, it's time to look for another type of >perennial grass. The area is partially shady under a Mimosa tree. Any >suggestions >for a broad leaf grass to grow in the Phoenix area? _________________________________________________________________ Get a FREE computer virus scan online from McAfee. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 From Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com Fri Sep 19 21:07:11 2003 From: Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com (Zelhart Alan-rpcs30) Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 14:07:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] rye grass Message-ID: <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B99307077A0193@az33exm25.corp.mot.com> This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C37EF1.FE4557A2 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" Annual is OK to use, just be aware that it will be more messy. It will stain your cloths green worse than perennial, and it clogs up lawn mowers much more easy than perennial. If it were me I would take it back and get the Perennial. :) -- Chat with you later, Alan -- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ----- Alan Zelhart gizmoaz@cox.net Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- They told me I was gullible and I believed them! From: Vanzant GS09 Pamela N [mailto:VanzantPN@logcom.usmc.mil] Sent: Friday, September 19, 2003 10:14 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] rye grass I read the note about rye grass where you said to buy the perennial instead of annual. I just bought the annual rye grass. I have centipede in my front yard and dirt on side and back. Plan to put Bermuda down in the spring. Will it hurt to put this annual rye grass down. I bought 200 pounds. My yard is 130X250 but my house (3100 sq ft) and a pool with a deck are also on this. Is this enough. Is there a certain way I need to do this. Can I put this rye right in with the existing grass in the front? Thanks for your help. Pam ------_=_NextPart_001_01C37EF1.FE4557A2 Content-Type: text/html; charset="ISO-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 PCFET0NUWVBFIEhUTUwgUFVCTElDICItLy9XM0MvL0RURCBIVE1MIDQuMCBUcmFuc2l0aW9uYWwv L0VOIj4NCjxIVE1MPjxIRUFEPg0KPE1FVEEgSFRUUC1FUVVJVj0iQ29udGVudC1UeXBlIiBDT05U RU5UPSJ0ZXh0L2h0bWw7IGNoYXJzZXQ9SVNPLTg4NTktMSI+DQo8VElUTEU+cnllIGdyYXNzPC9U SVRMRT4NCg0KPE1FVEEgY29udGVudD0iTVNIVE1MIDYuMDAuMjgwMC4xMTcwIiBuYW1lPUdFTkVS QVRPUj48L0hFQUQ+DQo8Qk9EWT4NCjxESVY+PFNQQU4gY2xhc3M9NTA5MjMwOTIxLTE5MDkyMDAz PjxGT05UIGZhY2U9VmVyZGFuYSBjb2xvcj0jMDAwMGZmPkFubnVhbCBpcyANCk9LIHRvIHVzZSwg anVzdCBiZSBhd2FyZSB0aGF0IGl0IHdpbGwgYmUgbW9yZSBtZXNzeS4mbmJzcDsgSXQgd2lsbCBz dGFpbiB5b3VyIA0KY2xvdGhzIGdyZWVuIHdvcnNlIHRoYW4gcGVyZW5uaWFsLCBhbmQgaXQgY2xv Z3MgdXAgbGF3biBtb3dlcnMgbXVjaCBtb3JlIGVhc3kgDQp0aGFuIHBlcmVubmlhbC4mbmJzcDsg SWYgaXQgd2VyZSBtZSBJIHdvdWxkIHRha2UgaXQgYmFjayBhbmQgZ2V0IHRoZSBQZXJlbm5pYWwu IA0KOik8L0ZPTlQ+PC9TUEFOPjwvRElWPg0KPERJVj48U1BBTiBjbGFzcz01MDkyMzA5MjEtMTkw OTIwMDM+PC9TUEFOPjxGT05UIGZhY2U9QXJpYWw+PEZPTlQgZmFjZT1UYWhvbWEgDQpzaXplPTI+ LS08QlI+Q2hhdCB3aXRoIHlvdSBsYXRlciw8QlI+QWxhbjxCUj4tLSA8QlI+Q2hhbmRsZXIsIA0K QXJpem9uYSZuYnNwOyZuYnNwOyZuYnNwOyZuYnNwOyZuYnNwOyZuYnNwOyZuYnNwOyBTdW5zZXQg Wm9uZTogMTM8QlI+PEEgDQpocmVmPSJodHRwOi8vd3d3LkdhcmRlbmVyc0Nvcm5lci5jb20iPmh0 dHA6Ly93d3cuR2FyZGVuZXJzQ29ybmVyLmNvbTwvQT48QlI+LS0tLS08QlI+QWxhbiANClplbGhh cnQmbmJzcDsmbmJzcDsmbmJzcDsmbmJzcDsmbmJzcDsmbmJzcDsgPEJSPjxBIA0KaHJlZj0ibWFp bHRvOmdpem1vYXpAY294Lm5ldCI+Z2l6bW9hekBjb3gubmV0PC9BPjxCUj5HYXJkZW5zIENvLWxp c3Rvd25lcjxCUj48QSANCmhyZWY9Imh0dHA6Ly93d3cuZ2FyZGVuZXJzY29ybmVyLmNvbS9ub3Rl cy5odG1sIj5odHRwOi8vd3d3LmdhcmRlbmVyc2Nvcm5lci5jb20vbm90ZXMuaHRtbDwvQT48QlI+ LS0tLS08QlI+Jm5ic3A7IA0KVGhleSB0b2xkIG1lIEkgd2FzIGd1bGxpYmxlJm5ic3A7IGFuZCBJ IGJlbGlldmVkIHRoZW0hPFNQQU4gDQpjbGFzcz01MDkyMzA5MjEtMTkwOTIwMDM+PEZPTlQgZmFj ZT1WZXJkYW5hIGNvbG9yPSMwMDAwZmYgDQpzaXplPTM+Jm5ic3A7PC9GT05UPjwvU1BBTj48L0ZP TlQ+PC9GT05UPjwvRElWPg0KPFA+PEZPTlQgZmFjZT1BcmlhbD48Rk9OVCBmYWNlPVRhaG9tYSBz aXplPTI+PFNQQU4gDQpjbGFzcz01MDkyMzA5MjEtMTkwOTIwMDM+Jm5ic3A7PC9TUEFOPjwvRk9O VD48L0ZPTlQ+PEZPTlQgZmFjZT1UYWhvbWEgDQpzaXplPTI+PEJSPjxCPkZyb206PC9CPiBWYW56 YW50IEdTMDkgUGFtZWxhIE4gDQpbbWFpbHRvOlZhbnphbnRQTkBsb2djb20udXNtYy5taWxdPEJS PjxCPlNlbnQ6PC9CPiBGcmlkYXksIFNlcHRlbWJlciAxOSwgMjAwMyANCjEwOjE0IEFNPEJSPjxC PlRvOjwvQj4gYXJpZF9nYXJkZW5lckBBZy5hcml6b25hLmVkdTxCUj48Qj5TdWJqZWN0OjwvQj4g DQpbQXJpZF9nYXJkZW5lcl0gcnllIGdyYXNzPEJSPjxCUj48L1A+PC9GT05UPg0KPEJMT0NLUVVP VEUgZGlyPWx0ciBzdHlsZT0iTUFSR0lOLVJJR0hUOiAwcHgiPg0KICA8UD48Rk9OVCBmYWNlPUFy aWFsIHNpemU9Mj5JIHJlYWQgdGhlIG5vdGUgYWJvdXQgcnllIGdyYXNzIHdoZXJlIHlvdSBzYWlk IHRvIA0KICBidXkgdGhlPC9GT05UPiA8Rk9OVCBmYWNlPSJUaW1lcyBOZXcgUm9tYW4iPnBlcmVu bmlhbCBpbnN0ZWFkIG9mIA0KICBhbm51YWw8L0ZPTlQ+PEZPTlQgZmFjZT1BcmlhbCBzaXplPTI+ LiZuYnNwOyBJIGp1c3QgYm91Z2h0IHRoZSBhbm51YWwgcnllIA0KICBncmFzcy4mbmJzcDsgSSBo YXZlIGNlbnRpcGVkZSBpbiBteSBmcm9udCB5YXJkIGFuZCBkaXJ0IG9uIHNpZGUgYW5kIA0KICBi YWNrLiZuYnNwOyBQbGFuIHRvIHB1dCBCZXJtdWRhIGRvd24gaW4gdGhlIHNwcmluZy4mbmJzcDsg V2lsbCBpdCBodXJ0IHRvIHB1dCANCiAgdGhpcyBhbm51YWwgcnllIGdyYXNzIGRvd24uJm5ic3A7 IEkgYm91Z2h0IDIwMCBwb3VuZHMuJm5ic3A7IE15IHlhcmQgaXMgDQogIDEzMFgyNTAgYnV0IG15 IGhvdXNlICgzMTAwIHNxIGZ0KSBhbmQgYSBwb29sIHdpdGggYSBkZWNrIGFyZSBhbHNvIG9uIA0K ICB0aGlzLiZuYnNwOyBJcyB0aGlzIGVub3VnaC4mbmJzcDsgSXMgdGhlcmUgYSBjZXJ0YWluIHdh eSBJIG5lZWQgdG8gZG8gDQogIHRoaXMuJm5ic3A7IENhbiBJIHB1dCB0aGlzIHJ5ZSByaWdodCBp biB3aXRoIHRoZSBleGlzdGluZyBncmFzcyBpbiB0aGUgDQogIGZyb250PzwvRk9OVD48L1A+DQog IDxQPjxGT05UIGZhY2U9QXJpYWwgc2l6ZT0yPlRoYW5rcyBmb3IgeW91ciBoZWxwLjwvRk9OVD4g PC9QPg0KICA8UD48Rk9OVCBmYWNlPUFyaWFsIHNpemU9Mj5QYW08L0ZPTlQ+IDwvUD48L0JMT0NL UVVPVEU+PC9CT0RZPjwvSFRNTD4NCg== ------_=_NextPart_001_01C37EF1.FE4557A2-- From landelius8@aol.com Fri Sep 19 23:48:10 2003 From: landelius8@aol.com (landelius8@aol.com) Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 16:48:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309192348.h8JNmAZr018586@Ag.arizona.edu> How do I get a coppy of publication AZ1100 - flowers? From BMUnterman@aol.com Sat Sep 20 07:07:50 2003 From: BMUnterman@aol.com (BMUnterman@aol.com) Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2003 03:07:50 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] mc23-home grown figs Message-ID: <4f.344a43e5.2c9d56c6@aol.com> --part1_4f.344a43e5.2c9d56c6_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit please mail and bill me. thanks, david David A. Buttross 8701 ampezo trail Austin, TX 78749 --part1_4f.344a43e5.2c9d56c6_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable please mail and bill me.  thanks, david
David A. Buttross
8701 ampezo trail
Austin, TX 78749 --part1_4f.344a43e5.2c9d56c6_boundary-- From BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu Sat Sep 20 05:36:09 2003 From: BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 22:36:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Green Building Expo 10/3 - 10/4/03 Phoenix City Hall Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20030919223314.01fb3f28@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_1300530==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Here is a link to the City of Scottsdale site that has information regarding the Green Building Expo ... http://www.scottsdaleaz.gov/greenbuilding/default.asp?catID=5 Green Building Expo Phoenix City Hall Atrium October 3rd & 4th, 2003 Green Building Expo News Release (pdf / 98 kb / 1Pg) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert. "The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona." ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ --=====================_1300530==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
 
Here is a link to the City of Scottsdale site that has information regarding the Green  Building Expo ...
 
http://www.scottsdaleaz.gov/greenbuilding/default.asp?catID=5
 
Green Building Expo
      Phoenix City Hall Atrium
      October 3rd & 4th, 2003
      Green Building Expo News Release (pdf / 98 kb / 1Pg)
 
 

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ  85040-8807

Phone:  (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax:  (602) 470-8092
email:  BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/
http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens

Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program
To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert.

"The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona."
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


--=====================_1300530==_.ALT-- From cstephens@infinet-is.com Sat Sep 20 22:58:54 2003 From: cstephens@infinet-is.com (Charles Stephens) Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2003 15:58:54 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort --Rodents References: <200309191916.h8JJGTZr027556@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000a01c37fca$c53f7ee0$dada13d8@default> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C37F90.17D418E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable It sounds like you have roof rats, especially if you are in or near the = Arcadia district of Phoenix. You can get the U of A publication on roof rats by following the link = below. http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/insects/az1280.pdf Good luck, Charlie Stephens Master Gardener Phoenix ----- Original Message -----=20 From: wahi548@att.net=20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Friday, September 19, 2003 12:16 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have rodents biting off my AZ sweet oranges at night. Any = suggestioons to remove them other than poison bait or traps. Have tried = Stickum and in morning found trap twenty feet away with a pile of pellet = sized feces. Any suggestions...my tree is near a wall allowing rodents = to jump to the tree and not have to climb. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C37F90.17D418E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

It sounds like you have roof rats, = especially if=20 you are in or near the Arcadia district of Phoenix.
You can get the U of A publication on = roof rats by=20 following the link below.
http://ag.arizona.= edu/pubs/insects/az1280.pdf
 
Good luck,
Charlie Stephens
Master=20 Gardener
Phoenix
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 wahi548@att.net=20
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu =
Sent: Friday, September 19, = 2003 12:16=20 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Question from=20 Home-Hort WWW page

I have rodents biting off my AZ sweet oranges at night. = Any=20 suggestioons to remove them other than poison bait or traps. Have = tried=20 Stickum and in morning found trap twenty feet away with a pile of = pellet sized=20 feces. Any suggestions...my tree is near a wall allowing rodents to = jump to=20 the tree and not have to=20 = climb.

_______________________________________________
Arid_gar= dener=20 mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu=
http://Ag.A= rizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C37F90.17D418E0-- From BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu Sat Sep 20 20:07:14 2003 From: BradleyL@Ag.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2003 13:07:14 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Desert Museum Butterfly Festival 9/20-9/21 Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20030919083549.01fc3c30@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_14573285==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Arizona Sonora Desert Museum, Tucson 3rd Annual Desert Museum Butterfly Festival & Plant Sale! September 20-21, 2003 7:30 a.m. - 9:00 p.m. Saturday 7:30 a.m. - 4:00 p.m. Sunday http://www.desertmuseum.org/calendar/butterflyfest.html Celebrate the season at the annual celebration of butterflies! More than 250 species of butterfly can be spotted at this time of year in=20 the Sonoran Desert! =B7 Museum-grown butterfly-attracting plants will be available for=20 purchase along with free gardening demonstrations. =B7 Enjoy family and kid-friendly activities such as face painting,=20 crafts and puppet shows =B7 Visit our famous "Live Caterpillar and Chrysalis" table =B7 Participate in butterfly walks and butterfly natural history=20 interpretations in the Pollination Garden =B7 Purchase Museum-grown butterfly-attracting plants =B7 Participate in a gardening for butterfly class =B7 Attend a special natural history lecture by a local lepidopterist. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally= =20 responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert. "The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be=20 taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona." ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ --=====================_14573285==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Arizona Sonora Desert Museum, Tucson

3rd Annual
Desert Museum Butterfly Festival & Plant Sale!
September 20-21, 2003
7:30 a.m. - 9:00 p.m. Saturday
7:30 a.m. - 4:00 p.m. Sunday

http://www.desertmuseum.org/calendar/butterflyfest.html<= /a>


Celebrate the season at the annual celebration of butterflies!

More than 250 species of butterfly can be spotted at this time of year in the Sonoran Desert!
=B7       Museum-grown butterfly-attracting plants will be available for purchase along with free gardening demonstrations.

=B7       Enjoy family and kid-friendly activities such as face painting, crafts and puppet shows

=B7       Visit our famous "Live Caterpillar and Chrysalis" table

=B7       Participate in butterfly walks and butterfly natural history interpretations in the Pollination Garden

=B7       Purchase Museum-grown butterfly-attracting plants

=B7       Participate in a gardening for butterfly class

=B7       Attend a special natural history lecture by a local lepidopterist.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ  85040-8807

Phone:  (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax:  (602) 470-8092
email:  BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/
http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens

Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program
To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert.

"The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona."
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


--=====================_14573285==_.ALT-- From kdickey1950@cox.net Sat Sep 20 17:33:44 2003 From: kdickey1950@cox.net (kdickey1950@cox.net) Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2003 10:33:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309201733.h8KHXiZr002768@Ag.arizona.edu> Oleander plants have leaves turning yellow & dropping. I don't know if they need more water or if they are not getting enough. The leaves are not turning brown before they drop. Help! From kalinaknows@yahoo.com Sun Sep 21 06:00:53 2003 From: kalinaknows@yahoo.com (Kim Kalina) Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2003 23:00:53 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] rye grass In-Reply-To: <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B99307077A0193@az33exm25.corp.mot.com> Message-ID: <20030921060053.19258.qmail@web40012.mail.yahoo.com> --0-451555342-1064124053=:19225 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I missed everything about the Rye Grass....I see that perennial is much better. But when are we suspose to sow it and how do you suggest we sow it. Cut the bermuda way down then sow the rye and water a couple of times a day until it comes in? What do you fertilize it with and how often do you fertilize???? Thanks for your expertice.....Kim Zelhart Alan-rpcs30 wrote:Annual is OK to use, just be aware that it will be more messy. It will stain your cloths green worse than perennial, and it clogs up lawn mowers much more easy than perennial. If it were me I would take it back and get the Perennial. :) -- Chat with you later, Alan -- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ----- Alan Zelhart gizmoaz@cox.net Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- They told me I was gullible and I believed them! From: Vanzant GS09 Pamela N [mailto:VanzantPN@logcom.usmc.mil] Sent: Friday, September 19, 2003 10:14 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] rye grass I read the note about rye grass where you said to buy the perennial instead of annual. I just bought the annual rye grass. I have centipede in my front yard and dirt on side and back. Plan to put Bermuda down in the spring. Will it hurt to put this annual rye grass down. I bought 200 pounds. My yard is 130X250 but my house (3100 sq ft) and a pool with a deck are also on this. Is this enough. Is there a certain way I need to do this. Can I put this rye right in with the existing grass in the front? Thanks for your help. Pam --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software --0-451555342-1064124053=:19225 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

I missed everything about the Rye Grass....I see that perennial is much better. But when are we suspose to sow it and how do you suggest we sow it. Cut the bermuda way down then sow the rye and water a couple of times a day until it comes in? What do you fertilize it with and how often do you fertilize???? Thanks for your expertice.....Kim

Zelhart Alan-rpcs30 <Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com> wrote:
Annual is OK to use, just be aware that it will be more messy.  It will stain your cloths green worse than perennial, and it clogs up lawn mowers much more easy than perennial.  If it were me I would take it back and get the Perennial. :)
--
Chat with you later,
Alan
--
Chandler, Arizona        Sunset Zone: 13
http://www.GardenersCorner.com
-----
Alan Zelhart      
gizmoaz@cox.net
Gardens Co-listowner
http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html
-----
  They told me I was gullible  and I believed them! 


From: Vanzant GS09 Pamela N [mailto:VanzantPN@logcom.usmc.mil]
Sent: Friday, September 19, 2003 10:14 AM
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: [Arid_gardener] rye grass

I read the note about rye grass where you said to buy the perennial instead of annual.  I just bought the annual rye grass.  I have centipede in my front yard and dirt on side and back.  Plan to put Bermuda down in the spring.  Will it hurt to put this annual rye grass down.  I bought 200 pounds.  My yard is 130X250 but my house (3100 sq ft) and a pool with a deck are also on this.  Is this enough.  Is there a certain way I need to do this.  Can I put this rye right in with the existing grass in the front?

Thanks for your help.

Pam

Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software --0-451555342-1064124053=:19225-- From JamieandAaron@msn.com Sat Sep 20 23:52:59 2003 From: JamieandAaron@msn.com (JamieandAaron@msn.com) Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2003 16:52:59 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309202353.h8KNqxZr002508@Ag.arizona.edu> We were just wondering if an avacado tree would grow in the valley? Thank you From topgunone77@yahoo.com Sun Sep 21 01:31:46 2003 From: topgunone77@yahoo.com (topgunone77@yahoo.com) Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2003 18:31:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309210131.h8L1VkZr009874@Ag.arizona.edu> Can dichondra lawn be successfully planted in Scottsdale area lawns? What are some other good lawn varieties other than bermuda which is invasive an pesky? Is there a year round perenial which is a good choice? Thank you, and best regards, Christopher May From tysontwosome@yahoo.com Sun Sep 21 17:20:34 2003 From: tysontwosome@yahoo.com (tysontwosome@yahoo.com) Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2003 10:20:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309211720.h8LHKYZr012878@Ag.arizona.edu> I am trying to gain information about when/how to trim my boganvilla. It is growing "out of control" in my front yard, pulling the lattice down, and of course creating a million leaves. If someone could answer this one, I would greatly appreciate it. A concerned Arizonian. Mr. Tyson From Tigerlillydun@aol.com Sun Sep 21 19:15:43 2003 From: Tigerlillydun@aol.com (Tigerlillydun@aol.com) Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2003 15:15:43 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Joshua Tree Message-ID: <79.19571fa0.2c9f52df@aol.com> -------------------------------1064171743 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Everyone, I recently drove through the Joshua Tees north of Wikenburg. I fell in love with them. I was wondering if any nurseries carry them & more importantly if they would survive where I live. (Outside of Sierra Vista towards Tombstone). Any info would be helpful :) Thanks, Liane -------------------------------1064171743 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi Everyone,
 
  &nbs= p;  I recently drove through the Joshua Tees north of Wikenburg. =20= I fell in love with them.  I was wondering if any nurseries carry them=20= & more importantly if they would survive where I live.  (Outside of= Sierra Vista towards Tombstone).
 
Any info would b= e helpful :)
 
Thanks, Liane
-------------------------------1064171743-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Sep 21 21:33:09 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2003 21:33:09 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Joshua Tree Message-ID: Joshua Tree (Yucca brevifolia) should survive in your area. It is native to the high desert climates and hardy in arid climates. It can reach 40 feet tall and needs gravelly, sandy alkaline soils with good drainage; tolerates drought but looks better with monthly irrigation. It may be hard to find container-grown plants in nurseries. You will probably need to call nurseries to find one that carries it or can special-order it. (It does not transplant well from the wild). Y. b. herberti is a naturally occurring sub-species that does not gorw as lange and might be easier to find in a nursery. (information from Rose Duffield and Mary Irish) Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Tigerlillydun@aol.com >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Joshua Tree >Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2003 15:15:43 EDT > >Hi Everyone, > > I recently drove through the Joshua Tees north of Wikenburg. I fell >in >love with them. I was wondering if any nurseries carry them & more >importantly if they would survive where I live. (Outside of Sierra Vista >towards >Tombstone). > >Any info would be helpful :) > >Thanks, Liane _________________________________________________________________ Add MSN 8 Internet Software to your existing Internet access and enjoy patented spam protection and more. Sign up now! http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/byoa From JNOVAKY@aol.com Mon Sep 22 00:05:59 2003 From: JNOVAKY@aol.com (JNOVAKY@aol.com) Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2003 20:05:59 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] pruning Message-ID: <9f.3dd641fc.2c9f96e7@aol.com> --part1_9f.3dd641fc.2c9f96e7_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit when is a good time to prune oleander in central Florida. --part1_9f.3dd641fc.2c9f96e7_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable when is a good time to prune=20= oleander in central Florida. --part1_9f.3dd641fc.2c9f96e7_boundary-- From bchristie@att.net Mon Sep 22 02:11:06 2003 From: bchristie@att.net (bchristie@att.net) Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2003 19:11:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309220211.h8M2B6Zr025401@Ag.arizona.edu> One of our Blue Agaves has drooping leaves on the bottom. THis started with the leaves (do you call them leaves?) curling, now about the bottom 1/3 are lying on the rock beneath them. They are still the bluish-green color. Anything we can/should do? From Connie.Golden@usdoj.gov Mon Sep 22 15:25:26 2003 From: Connie.Golden@usdoj.gov (Connie.Golden@usdoj.gov) Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 08:25:26 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] MG in Wisc has AZ plant question Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20030922082456.02239068@cals.arizona.edu> A friend of mine just moved from Chandler to Phoenix (yeah, not a long migration). She's asking me for help and I don't know how to answer this particular question. She has a very narrow space between her home and a 5 - 6 foot tall wall...she thinks it's 15-18 inches wide (the planting space available). I think this is rather tight, and I'll ask her to measure it again... Here's the klinker: the space where she wants to grow something is in the shade, but very hot. I've been dabbling in xeriscaping (even in Wisconsin we can have droughts), but I don't know what would be appropriate for a space like this. I've been looking thru the web and my latest High Country Garden catalog from Santa Fe. Is there a typical desert loving vine that is good for hot, dry areas, but shaded? I'm guessing this family could easily set up a water system for that particular planting area...long and narrow seems very easy for a black soaking hose. If water is available on a regular basis, I suppose this could open up the number of options(?). Thanks in advance for anyone who gets involved in this question. Connie Golden Dane County (Wisc) Master Gardener From carolparry@cox.net Mon Sep 22 13:30:25 2003 From: carolparry@cox.net (Carol Parry) Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 06:30:25 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] wasps in pools Message-ID: <000801c3810d$ae7d21a0$6501a8c0@carolsdesktop> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C380D3.01D46F60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable can you send me info on how to get rid of wasps coming to drink in my = pool ? Thanks Carol Parry Fox carolparry@cox.net phone: 480-488-8546 fax:480-488-8476 10032 E. Reflecting Mountain Way Scottsdale, AZ 85262 ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C380D3.01D46F60 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
can you send me info on how to = get rid of=20 wasps coming to drink in my pool ? Thanks
 
Carol Parry = Fox
carolparry@cox.net
phone: 480-488-8546
fax:480-488-8476
10032 E. Reflecting = Mountain=20 Way
Scottsdale, AZ 85262
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C380D3.01D46F60-- From kyoung@Ag.arizona.edu Mon Sep 22 17:19:04 2003 From: kyoung@Ag.arizona.edu (Kelly Young) Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 10:19:04 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roof Rats Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20030922101230.02262f28@cals.arizona.edu> I just spoke with the folks at Maricopa County Vector Control about roof rats. At this time, they have not been found to carry any diseases of humans and are considered a nuisance rather than a hazard. They are well documented within the Arcadia area in Maricopa County, bordered by Camelback Road to the north, Mc Dowell Road to the south, 24th Street to the west and Scottsdale Road to the east. If you find roof rats outside of these geographic boundaries, please contact Maricopa County Vector Control at 602-506-0700. Kelly Young Program Coordinator, Urban Horticulture The University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone (602) 470-8086 ext. 311 Fax (602) 470-8092 kyoung@ag.arizona.edu The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona. From mdecindis@mag.maricopa.gov Mon Sep 22 16:56:39 2003 From: mdecindis@mag.maricopa.gov (mdecindis@mag.maricopa.gov) Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 09:56:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309221656.h8MGudZr022974@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a 10 year old bougainvillea plant that has started to look very bad. Thin, and the leaves are light green with white/yellow around the edges. Please tell me explicitly what to buy and what to do. Thanks. From ccklsk5501@wmconnect.com Mon Sep 22 19:59:34 2003 From: ccklsk5501@wmconnect.com (ccklsk5501@wmconnect.com) Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 12:59:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309221959.h8MJxYZr013592@Ag.arizona.edu> does it do damage to a common bermuda grass lawn to overseed with rye grass for the winter? Would it be beneficial for a common bermuda grass lawn that is sparse to not overseed with rye grass for a winter or two? From chimels@msn.com Mon Sep 22 22:43:12 2003 From: chimels@msn.com (chimels@msn.com) Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 15:43:12 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309222243.h8MMhCZr029547@Ag.arizona.edu> Do termites invade living deciduous trees? Or under what criteria would they invade a tree? Greg From hefjay@cox.net Mon Sep 22 23:25:14 2003 From: hefjay@cox.net (hefjay@cox.net) Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2003 16:25:14 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309222325.h8MNPEZr008881@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a ficus tree that is about 25' tall, 20' in diameter and about 8 years old. I want to build a brick planter around the bottom of it about 12-18 inches tall, and then brick patio out from their. The problem there are some surface roots where I want to put the patio. Will cutting out the problem roots or building the planter hurt the tree? From s.vaughn@mchsi.com Wed Sep 24 00:06:39 2003 From: s.vaughn@mchsi.com (Stephanie Vaughn) Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 17:06:39 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] african sumac tree Message-ID: <000801c3822f$baa64b00$6401a8c0@owners36f7iee7> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C381F5.0DD96EF0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have a question about these trees. My mother-in-law is looking to = plant these on her horse ranch, but first wants to see if any part of it = may be poisonous to her animals, horses especially. She lives in Lake = Havasu, AZ. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, s. vaughn ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C381F5.0DD96EF0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I have  a question about these = trees. My=20 mother-in-law is looking to plant these on her horse ranch, but first = wants to=20 see if any part of it may be poisonous to her animals, horses = especially. =20 She lives in Lake Havasu, AZ.  Any info would be greatly=20 appreciated.
Thank you,
s. vaughn
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C381F5.0DD96EF0-- From jerica@xeriscapes.com Tue Sep 23 21:40:37 2003 From: jerica@xeriscapes.com (jerica@xeriscapes.com) Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 14:40:37 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309232140.h8NLebZr006534@Ag.arizona.edu> Can you tell me if there are specific plants (cacti and succulents) that deter rabbits? Thank you. From scwfun@cox.net Tue Sep 23 21:57:45 2003 From: scwfun@cox.net (scwfun@cox.net) Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 14:57:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309232157.h8NLvjZr010012@Ag.arizona.edu> I came home in August to find 5 very large Agave plants sick and dying. The leaves were limp and the core was falling over. when my yard man came, he turned a dead one completely over and found a hole as large as his thumb and about 6 inches long. He sprayed Gasoline in the hole and a huge bug came out. Then, we found cockroaches in the soil around the base. He found these huge holes in all of the Agave. I have had my pest control people put various treatments on the other Agave but don't know if this will help in the long run. Any ideas? I'm pretty frustrated. Thank you so much. Bette From ortega@nothnbut.net Tue Sep 23 22:42:33 2003 From: ortega@nothnbut.net (karen ortega) Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 15:42:33 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] madagascar palm Message-ID: <3F70CC59.8070500@nothnbut.net> I also can not find info on this plant, please send any care tips you may have & also any problems that may accompany such as over or underwatering. From Jeanna1jackson@aol.com Wed Sep 24 00:51:35 2003 From: Jeanna1jackson@aol.com (Jeanna1jackson@aol.com) Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 20:51:35 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oleander Bushes in Dallas, TX Area Message-ID: <179.2001f736.2ca24497@aol.com> --part1_179.2001f736.2ca24497_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I was wondering if Oleander bushes are a good idea next to our home (in front of a window that gets alot of sun). How far out from the house should we plant them, or should they be planted away from the house out away by themselves. Please respond!! thank you Jeanna Jackson --part1_179.2001f736.2ca24497_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I was wondering if Oleander bushes are a good idea nex= t to our home (in front of a window that gets alot of sun).

How far out from the house should we plant them, or should they be planted a= way from the house out away by themselves.

Please respond!!  thank you

Jeanna Jackson --part1_179.2001f736.2ca24497_boundary-- From gngw80@sbcglobal.net Wed Sep 24 15:42:28 2003 From: gngw80@sbcglobal.net (gngw80@sbcglobal.net) Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 08:42:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] falling leaves Message-ID: <001201c382b2$76967fb0$acbcfea9@pathome> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C38277.C961BA10 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable i have a citrus that the leaves keep falling do you have any suggestions = the tree appears to be healthy we live in orange \county calif=20 thank you,, gngw80@sbcglobal.net ------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C38277.C961BA10 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
i have a citrus that the leaves keep = falling do you=20 have any suggestions the tree appears to be healthy we live in orange=20 \county calif
thank=20 you,,          gngw80@sbcglobal.net ------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C38277.C961BA10-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Sep 24 20:57:16 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 20:57:16 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] madagascar palm Message-ID: Here is some information I found with a web search: http://www.desert-tropicals.com/Plants/Apocynaceae/Pachypodium_lamerei.html Madagascar Palm Scientific Name: Pachypodium lamerei Drake Synonym: Pachypodium champenoisianum, Pachypodium menabeum, Pachypodium ramosum Family: Apocynaceae Recommended Temperature Zone: sunset: 25 USDA: 10-12 Frost Tolerance: Semi tender in Phoenix, protect it, or keep it in container Sun Exposure: Light shade Origin: Madagascar Growth Habits: Deciduous tree, 8 feet tall (2.4 m), or more with optimal conditions Watering Needs: Regular water when the plant has leaves, else occasional water Propagation: Seeds, cuttings ------ Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: karen ortega >To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] madagascar palm >Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 15:42:33 -0700 > >I also can not find info on this plant, please send any care tips you may >have & also any problems that may accompany such as over or underwatering. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Instant message in style with MSN Messenger 6.0. Download it now FREE! http://msnmessenger-download.com From EarthLady3@aol.com Wed Sep 24 17:44:32 2003 From: EarthLady3@aol.com (EarthLady3@aol.com) Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 13:44:32 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Apple Tree - Falling Leaves Message-ID: <175.20527739.2ca33200@aol.com> --part1_175.20527739.2ca33200_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dear Gardeners, We planted two apple trees here in Tucson about two months ago. They have been thriving and putting forth new growth. This week we noticed that some of the leaves on one of them (Anna's) have been turning bright yellow and falling off within a day or two. It is too early for them to go into winter dormancy isn't it? Any suggestions? The watering schedule has not changed and the tree (Dorsett) next to it still looks fine. Many thanks in advance for your help, Connie --part1_175.20527739.2ca33200_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Dear Gardeners,

We planted two apple trees here in Tucson about two months ago.  They h= ave been thriving and putting forth new growth.  This week we noticed t= hat some of the leaves on one of them (Anna's) have been turning bright yell= ow and falling off within a day or two.  It is too early for them to go= into winter dormancy isn't it?  Any suggestions?  The watering sc= hedule has not changed and the tree (Dorsett) next to it still looks fine.&n= bsp;

Many thanks in advance for your help,
Connie --part1_175.20527739.2ca33200_boundary-- From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net Wed Sep 24 19:06:59 2003 From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 12:06:59 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] madagascar palm References: <3F70CC59.8070500@nothnbut.net> Message-ID: <002f01c382d1$0f3d7ed0$6253530c@olin> See: http://plantsdatabase.com/go/509/ http://www.desert-tropicals.com/Plants/Apocynaceae/Pachypodium_lamerei.html Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "karen ortega" > I also can not find info on this plant, please send any care tips you > may have & also any problems that may accompany such as over or > underwatering. From rodmcq6@highstream.net Wed Sep 24 23:21:49 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 16:21:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Agave Weevil Message-ID: <003c01c382f2$a24da580$4ea9db43@ibmbna6040> I suspect that the problem with your agaves is caused by the Agave Weevil an insect about one inch long with a long snout The weevil chews into the leaves of agaves introducing a bacterial rot that appears to be necessary for larval development. The adults lay eggs in the holes and the larvae burrow into the plant. Infested plants exhibit wilting and wrinkled leaves. Plants should be removed and destroyed as soon as the damage is evident. The larvae resemble white grubs and should be removed from the soil and killed. To help prevent damage to agaves in the future an insecticide such as Diazanon granules should be applied to the soil around the plants in May and June. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener Original Message----- From: scwfun@cox.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Tuesday, September 23, 2003 6:05 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I came home in August to find 5 very large Agave plants sick and dying. The leaves were limp and the core was falling over. when my yard man came, he turned a dead one completely over and found a hole as large as his thumb and about 6 inches long. He sprayed Gasoline in the hole and a huge bug came out. Then, we found cockroaches in the soil around the base. He found these huge holes in all of the Agave. > >I have had my pest control people put various treatments on the other Agave but don't know if this will help in the long run. > >Any ideas? I'm pretty frustrated. > >Thank you so much. Bette > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rodmcq6@highstream.net Wed Sep 24 23:37:47 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 16:37:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] african sumac tree Message-ID: <006701c382f4$dd30cd60$4ea9db43@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0064_01C382BA.2F930CC0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable The African Sumac is not listed as being a poisonous tree. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: Stephanie Vaughn To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Tuesday, September 23, 2003 6:04 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] african sumac tree I have a question about these trees. My mother-in-law is looking to = plant these on her horse ranch, but first wants to see if any part of it = may be poisonous to her animals, horses especially. She lives in Lake = Havasu, AZ. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, s. vaughn ------=_NextPart_000_0064_01C382BA.2F930CC0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
The African Sumac is not listed as being a poisonous = tree.
 
Good luck.
 
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
 
-----Original = Message-----
From:=20 Stephanie Vaughn <s.vaughn@mchsi.com>
To: = Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu = <Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Date:=20 Tuesday, September 23, 2003 6:04 PM
Subject: = [Arid_gardener]=20 african sumac tree

I have  a question about these = trees. My=20 mother-in-law is looking to plant these on her horse ranch, but first = wants to=20 see if any part of it may be poisonous to her animals, horses=20 especially.  She lives in Lake Havasu, AZ.  Any info would = be=20 greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
s. = vaughn
------=_NextPart_000_0064_01C382BA.2F930CC0-- From Taylorbaron@msn.com Wed Sep 24 22:57:04 2003 From: Taylorbaron@msn.com (Taylorbaron@msn.com) Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 15:57:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309242257.h8OMv4Zr006572@Ag.arizona.edu> Is it possible to grow a year-round water garden in our fountain? We live in the Carefree area. From rodmcq6@highstream.net Wed Sep 24 23:32:18 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 16:32:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus with falling leaves Message-ID: <005801c382f4$19622780$4ea9db43@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0055_01C382B9.6BDE5780 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Stress will cause leaves to drop from your citrus and very often = improper irrigation will cause the stress. I suggest that you call the Cooperative Extension in the county in which = you live, they will be familiar with your area. You will find them = listed in your phone book under County Government. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: gngw80@sbcglobal.net To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Wednesday, September 24, 2003 10:24 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] falling leaves i have a citrus that the leaves keep falling do you have any = suggestions the tree appears to be healthy we live in orange \county = calif=20 thank you,, gngw80@sbcglobal.net ------=_NextPart_000_0055_01C382B9.6BDE5780 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Stress will cause leaves to drop from your = citrus and=20 very often improper irrigation will cause the stress.
I suggest that you call the Cooperative Extension in = the=20 county in which you live, they will be familiar with your area. You will = find=20 them listed in your phone book under County Government.
 
Good luck.
 
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
 
-----Original = Message-----
From:=20 gngw80@sbcglobal.net <gngw80@sbcglobal.net>
To: = Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu = <Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Date:=20 Wednesday, September 24, 2003 10:24 AM
Subject: = [Arid_gardener]=20 falling leaves

i have a citrus that the leaves keep = falling do=20 you have any suggestions the tree appears to be healthy we live in = orange=20 \county calif
thank=20 you,,          gngw80@sbcglobal.net
------=_NextPart_000_0055_01C382B9.6BDE5780-- From Dustorm00@aol.com Wed Sep 24 22:40:52 2003 From: Dustorm00@aol.com (Dustorm00@aol.com) Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 15:40:52 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309242240.h8OMeqZr003643@Ag.arizona.edu> We recently removed a large acacia tree from our yard; the roots are still in place. We wish to plant a ficus tree, but we have received some information that suggests planting a tree from a 24 inch box would not be a good idea because it could be root bound. Is this correct? I certainly don't want to have it die once it is in the ground. From rodmcq6@highstream.net Thu Sep 25 00:08:23 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 17:08:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvillea, Pruning Message-ID: <007e01c382f9$24ad2360$4ea9db43@ibmbna6040> Bougainvillea grows so rapidly that it is sometimes necessary to prune two or three times a year in order to keep the wild growth under control. It is preferable to not prune in the fall since pruning spurs new growth which is very frost tender and the bougainvillea is normally quite frost tender anyway. Good luck. Rod Mckusick Master Gardener Original Message----- From: tysontwosome@yahoo.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Sunday, September 21, 2003 12:12 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I am trying to gain information about when/how to trim my boganvilla. It is growing "out of control" in my front yard, pulling the lattice down, and of course creating a million leaves. If someone could answer this one, I would greatly appreciate it. >A concerned Arizonian. >Mr. Tyson > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net Thu Sep 25 01:16:38 2003 From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 18:16:38 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] african sumac tree References: <006701c382f4$dd30cd60$4ea9db43@ibmbna6040> Message-ID: <005101c38302$b043ea40$fb52530c@olin> -----Original Message-----From: Stephanie Vaughn > I have a question about these trees. My mother-in-law is looking to plant these on her horse ranch, but first wants to see if any part of it may be poisonous to her animals, horses especially. She lives in Lake Havasu, AZ. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, s. vaughn It isn't known to be poisonous but some people may have allergic reactions on contact - similar to poison oak. Should not be a problem with horses. -Olin From rodmcq6@highstream.net Wed Sep 24 23:56:23 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 16:56:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bermuda grass, overseeding Message-ID: <007101c382f7$76ebbe40$4ea9db43@ibmbna6040> Overseeding bermuda grass with rye grass can do damage to the bermuda. Yes, if your bermuda is not doing well it would be helpful to skip overseeding for this winter. Be sure to water and fertilize properly for next year. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: ccklsk5501@wmconnect.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, September 22, 2003 1:19 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >does it do damage to a common bermuda grass lawn to overseed with rye grass for the winter? Would it be beneficial for a common bermuda grass lawn that is sparse to not overseed with rye grass for a winter or two? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rodmcq6@highstream.net Wed Sep 24 23:50:06 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 16:50:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Termites Message-ID: <006c01c382f6$95b775e0$4ea9db43@ibmbna6040> Termites do not invade healthy trees, however they will invade trees that are under stress. Insects or improper irrigation are common causes of stress in trees. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener-----Original Message----- From: chimels@msn.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Monday, September 22, 2003 4:08 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Do termites invade living deciduous trees? Or under what criteria would they invade a tree? > >Greg > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From dahlfamily@worldnet.att.net Thu Sep 25 18:39:39 2003 From: dahlfamily@worldnet.att.net (dahlfamily@worldnet.att.net) Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 11:39:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309251839.h8PIddA1028250@Ag.arizona.edu> We have 3 sage bushes. I think they are Texas Sage or something similar. For 7 1/2 years they have been pruned by hedge trimmers into ball shapes. I think they look awful. I have lately read that pruning them with hedge trimmers is wrong, but I don't know how to undo the damage of 7+ years. Any suggestions? From dahlfamily@worldnet.att.net Thu Sep 25 18:45:35 2003 From: dahlfamily@worldnet.att.net (dahlfamily@worldnet.att.net) Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 11:45:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309251845.h8PIjZA1029888@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a new small backyard in Gilbert, AZ and would like to try planting edible plants like fruit trees and vegetables. Is there a book or a web site that has a variety of photos showing many successful food gardens in the arid desert? From idnpeg@netzero.net Thu Sep 25 16:09:28 2003 From: idnpeg@netzero.net (Telker) Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 11:09:28 -0500 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pink Trumpet Vine Message-ID: <000a01c3837f$67d05e60$d6ea3040@gmacm.com> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C38355.7CFB2B00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hello. I planted two pink trumpet vines early spring '03 and they have = never bloomed. They have grown over 6' tall and are very green and lush = but have never had any buds or blooms. They are planted in our backyard against the fence (the West side) Please let me know what I am doing wrong. Thanks, No Blooms In McKinney, Texas ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C38355.7CFB2B00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hello.  I planted two pink trumpet vines early = spring '03=20 and they have never bloomed.  They have grown over 6' tall and are = very=20 green and lush but have never had any buds or blooms.
 
They are planted in our backyard against the fence = (the West=20 side)
 
Please let me know what I am doing = wrong.

Thanks,
No Blooms In McKinney, Texas
 
------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C38355.7CFB2B00-- From Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com Thu Sep 25 19:28:14 2003 From: Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com (Zelhart Alan-rpcs30) Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 12:28:14 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B99307077A046D@az33exm25.corp.mot.com> One of my favorite sites for desert vegetable and fruit growing is at the link below: http://myweb.cableone.net/tfcox/ Great info on best planting dates and times of year to plant what. Also great info on gardening pests you might have to deal with. A favorite book is Extreme Gardening, put out by the GardenGuy who has a show no channel 3 on Saturdays. http://www.gardenguy.com/ Check it out when you have time! -- Chat with you later, Alan -- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ----- Alan Zelhart gizmoaz@cox.net Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- City Planners do it with their eyes shut. -----Original Message----- From: dahlfamily@worldnet.att.net [mailto:dahlfamily@worldnet.att.net] Sent: Thursday, September 25, 2003 11:46 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a new small backyard in Gilbert, AZ and would like to try planting edible plants like fruit trees and vegetables. Is there a book or a web site that has a variety of photos showing many successful food gardens in the arid desert? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Todd.Sunday@schwab.com Thu Sep 25 19:13:59 2003 From: Todd.Sunday@schwab.com (Sunday, Todd) Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 12:13:59 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] HIBISCUS HELP PLEASE Message-ID: <8D3F682B0610D411874A00508B6FA8881F03A2C1@n2011pmx.nt.schwab.com> This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C38399.2C27B7C2 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Hi, I have a mature hibiscus plant (about 10 feet tall) that appears to be dying. It has plenty of new "leaves" but they are all small, shriveled and soon to fall off. It has already lost (or is in the process of losing) almost all of the older leaves. I fear I may have made the critical mistake of fertilizing it improperly. About a month ago, I thought it needed a boost and all I had for fertilizer was some Rose bush fertilizer. I read somewhere that one should use a fertilizer on plants such as this with a low middle number. I forget what the other 2 numbers are but I do know the middle # on the fertilizer I used is 12. Can you provide any advice on how I might save this hibiscus? Thanks ------_=_NextPart_001_01C38399.2C27B7C2 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1"
Hi,
 
I have a mature hibiscus plant (about 10 feet tall) that appears to be dying.   It has plenty of new "leaves" but they are all small,  shriveled and soon to fall off.  It has already lost (or is in the process of losing) almost all of the older leaves.  
 
I fear I may have made the critical mistake of fertilizing it improperly.   About a month ago,  I thought it needed a boost and all I had for fertilizer was some Rose bush fertilizer.   I read somewhere that one should use a fertilizer on plants such as this with a low middle number.   I forget what the other 2 numbers are but I do know the middle # on the fertilizer I used is 12.
 
Can you provide any advice on how I might save this hibiscus?  
 
Thanks
------_=_NextPart_001_01C38399.2C27B7C2-- From rodmcq6@highstream.net Thu Sep 25 23:12:36 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 16:12:36 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] HIBISCUS HELP PLEASE Message-ID: <005a01c383ba$838086e0$9c04e043@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0057_01C3837F.D5DB2520 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable >From what you have told us I don't think that the problem with your = hibiscus has been caused by the rose bush fertilizer provided you didn't = apply too much fertilizer and you watered before and after the = fertrilizer was applied. Nitrogen (the first number) in a fertilizer is = the chemical that causes burning if not applied properly or too much is = applied. Phosphorus (the second number) of a fertilizer analysis will = not cause burning. The symptoms of fertilizer burn will show as leaf = burn on the leaf tips and or the leaf margins. Has there been a weed killer or some other chemical applied near the = hibiscus ? Another possibility is improper irrigation. If you have applied too much fertilizer or a chemical has been applied = near the plant the best thing you can do is to deep water the plant. Check out this site for info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html And this site for hibiscus care: http://www.hiddenvalleyhibiscus.com/ Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: Sunday, Todd To: 'Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu' Date: Thursday, September 25, 2003 2:29 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] HIBISCUS HELP PLEASE Hi,=20 I have a mature hibiscus plant (about 10 feet tall) that appears to be = dying. It has plenty of new "leaves" but they are all small, = shriveled and soon to fall off. It has already lost (or is in the = process of losing) almost all of the older leaves. =20 I fear I may have made the critical mistake of fertilizing it = improperly. About a month ago, I thought it needed a boost and all I = had for fertilizer was some Rose bush fertilizer. I read somewhere = that one should use a fertilizer on plants such as this with a low = middle number. I forget what the other 2 numbers are but I do know the = middle # on the fertilizer I used is 12. Can you provide any advice on how I might save this hibiscus? =20 Thanks ------=_NextPart_000_0057_01C3837F.D5DB2520 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
From what you have told us I don't think that the = problem with=20 your hibiscus has been caused by the rose bush fertilizer provided you = didn't=20 apply too much fertilizer and you watered before and after the = fertrilizer was=20 applied. Nitrogen (the first number) in a fertilizer is the = chemical that=20 causes burning if not applied properly or too much is applied. = Phosphorus (the=20 second number) of a fertilizer analysis will not cause burning. The = symptoms of=20 fertilizer burn will show as leaf burn on the leaf tips and or the leaf=20 margins.
Has there been a weed killer or some other=20 chemical applied near the hibiscus ?
Another possibility is improper = irrigation.
If you have applied too much fertilizer or a = chemical has been=20 applied near the plant the best thing you can do is to deep water the=20 plant.
Check out this site for info on = irrigation:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html
And this site for hibiscus care:
http://www.hiddenvalleyhibi= scus.com/
 
Good luck.
 
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
-----Original = Message-----
From:=20 Sunday, Todd <Todd.Sunday@schwab.com>
To:=20 'Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu' = <Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
Date:=20 Thursday, September 25, 2003 2:29 PM
Subject: = [Arid_gardener]=20 HIBISCUS HELP PLEASE

Hi,=20
 
I = have a mature=20 hibiscus plant (about 10 feet tall) that appears to be = dying.   It=20 has plenty of new "leaves" but they are all small,  shriveled and = soon to=20 fall off.  It has already lost (or is in the process of = losing)=20 almost all of the older leaves.  
 
I fear I may have made the critical mistake = of=20 fertilizing it improperly.   About a month ago,  I = thought it=20 needed a boost and all I had for fertilizer was some Rose bush=20 fertilizer.   I read somewhere that one should use a = fertilizer on=20 plants such as this with a low middle number.   I forget = what the=20 other 2 numbers are but I do know the middle # on the fertilizer I = used is=20 12.
 
Can = you provide=20 any advice on how I might save this hibiscus?   =
 
Thanks
= ------=_NextPart_000_0057_01C3837F.D5DB2520-- From rodmcq6@highstream.net Thu Sep 25 23:27:54 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 16:27:54 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Shrub Pruning Message-ID: <006101c383bc$e9711b20$9c04e043@ibmbna6040> If the shrub is too large then cut back with either hand pruners or loppers to a size that is smaller than the size that you eventually want and remove some of the older shoots at ground level, allow the shrub to grow out then prune with hand pruners cutting alternate shoots. The next time you prune cut back the shoots that you missed the first time. The Master Gardener Manual has a chapter on pruning and is on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/ Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: dahlfamily@worldnet.att.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Thursday, September 25, 2003 12:19 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >We have 3 sage bushes. I think they are Texas Sage or something similar. For 7 1/2 years they have been pruned by hedge trimmers into ball shapes. I think they look awful. I have lately read that pruning them with hedge trimmers is wrong, but I don't know how to undo the damage of 7+ years. Any suggestions? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From emarcurio1@earthlink.net Fri Sep 26 02:49:51 2003 From: emarcurio1@earthlink.net (Ernest Marcurio) Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 19:49:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] italian cypress Message-ID: <3F73A94F.000003.03956@ernie-67k30nihl> --------------Boundary-00=_3VVSG6G0000000000000 Content-Type: Multipart/Alternative; boundary="------------Boundary-00=_4VVSBHK0000000000000" --------------Boundary-00=_4VVSBHK0000000000000 Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have an Italian cypress which was planted a couple of months ago= =2E=20 The branches are hanging and it has lost much of it's green. It get a little water about every day. I have been told that that is too much. Combined with the hot summer .It is about 8 ft tall. Is their any hope ? = I would hate to loose it.=0D =2E =0D =0D ernie --------------Boundary-00=_4VVSBHK0000000000000 Content-Type: Text/HTML; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
       I have an Italian cypress which was planted = a couple of months ago.  The  branches are hanging and it = has lost much of it's green. It get a little water about every day. I hav= e been told that that is too much. Combined with the hot summer .It is ab= out 8 ft tall. Is their any hope ? I would hate to loose it.
. 
 ernie
______________________= ______________________________
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/j1+BzPxuXPw9+r48ZMfbLnqKZzyLq29I1BIiZI1qYP/2Q== --------------Boundary-00=_3VVSG6G0000000000000-- From rodmcq6@highstream.net Thu Sep 25 23:38:36 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 16:38:36 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Root bound trees Message-ID: <000e01c383be$25d2c220$9c04e043@ibmbna6040> Trees become rootbound by remaining in the container too long regardless of what size container. Just because the container is a 24 inch box does not mean that it is root bound. You can protect yourself from a rootbound tree by informing the nursery where you purchase the tree that a root bound tree is not acceptable. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: Dustorm00@aol.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Date: Wednesday, September 24, 2003 4:35 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >We recently removed a large acacia tree from our yard; the roots are still in place. We wish to plant a ficus tree, but we have received some information that suggests planting a tree from a 24 inch box would not be a good idea because it could be root bound. Is this correct? I certainly don't want to have it die once it is in the ground. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Sep 26 14:37:43 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 14:37:43 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] pruning Oleander Message-ID: The best advice will come from your local Cooperative Extension Office (find them in the phone book under County listings). Here in southern Arizona, oleander are pruned during the warm season to expose the interior of the plant to sunlight and stimulate new flowering wood. Avoid shearing and pruning into globes or squares. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: JNOVAKY@aol.com >To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] pruning >Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2003 20:05:59 EDT > >when is a good time to prune oleander in central Florida. _________________________________________________________________ Instant message during games with MSN Messenger 6.0. Download it now FREE! http://msnmessenger-download.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Sep 26 14:25:12 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 14:25:12 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oleander Bushes in Dallas, TX Area Message-ID: I suggest that you check with your local Cooperative Extension office (in the phone book under the County listings). THey will be able to give you the best advice on what to plant. Oleanders are quite large when mature (up to 20 feet); dwarf varieties grow to 3-6 feet. They are evergreen. They are generally used in the farther reaches of the landscape. If you want to block summer sun, but allow winter sun, you might want to look at deciduous plants (lose their leaves in winter). Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Jeanna1jackson@aol.com >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oleander Bushes in Dallas, TX Area >Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 20:51:35 EDT > >I was wondering if Oleander bushes are a good idea next to our home (in >front >of a window that gets alot of sun). > >How far out from the house should we plant them, or should they be planted >away from the house out away by themselves. > >Please respond!! thank you > >Jeanna Jackson _________________________________________________________________ Get McAfee virus scanning and cleaning of incoming attachments. Get Hotmail Extra Storage! http://join.msn.com/?PAGE=features/es From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Sep 26 14:05:23 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 14:05:23 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] italian cypress Message-ID: Spider mites migt be causing the drooping branches. Check carefully for tiny webbing bewteen needles and also shake a branch over a piece of white paper-- if the little dust specks are moving, these are spider mites. If the problem is mites, rinse the entire tree with a strong spray of water from the garden hose. Since this is a newly planted tree, it does need frequent watering, but the goal is to water deeply (24 to 36 inches deep for a tree) and at less frequent intervals. For example, established trees are often watered every 10-14 days in the fall and about once a month in the winter -- note this is after one full growing season. You didn't say how much you waqtered each day, but you may want to try a good deep soaking and then waiting 3-4 days before watering again. Linda Drew Master Gardener Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Ernest Marcurio" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] italian cypress >Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 19:49:51 -0700 > > I have an Italian cypress which was planted a couple of months ago. >The branches are hanging and it has lost much of it's green. It get a >little water about every day. I have been told that that is too much. >Combined with the hot summer .It is about 8 ft tall. Is their any hope ? I >would hate to loose it. >. > > ernie _________________________________________________________________ Instant message during games with MSN Messenger 6.0. Download it now FREE! http://msnmessenger-download.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Sep 26 14:33:28 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 14:33:28 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pink Trumpet Vine Message-ID: You probably want to check with your local Cooperative Extension Office (located in the County listings in your phone book) for the best information. The plants sound healthy. Perhaps the plant is just not established yet (usually takes one full year for plants to become established). They may bloom next summer. I would also check your watering and fertilizing schedule. Many plants will produce lush growth but no blooms if they are receiving an abundance of water and fertilizers. If you are fertilizing, you many want to stop applications and see if the plant responds with blooms. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Telker" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pink Trumpet Vine >Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 11:09:28 -0500 > >Hello. I planted two pink trumpet vines early spring '03 and they have >never bloomed. They have grown over 6' tall and are very green and lush >but have never had any buds or blooms. > >They are planted in our backyard against the fence (the West side) > >Please let me know what I am doing wrong. > >Thanks, >No Blooms In McKinney, Texas > _________________________________________________________________ Get McAfee virus scanning and cleaning of incoming attachments. Get Hotmail Extra Storage! http://join.msn.com/?PAGE=features/es From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Sep 26 13:54:58 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 13:54:58 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Apple Tree - Falling Leaves Message-ID: My pomegranate is showing the same symptoms. Overall, the tree seems healthy and I suspect that there may be some nitrogen deficiency, coupled with the fact that the tree will soon be going dormant -- the tree extracts nitrogen from the old leaves if needed. Your young trees need a few spoonfuls of fertilizer such as ammonium sulphate during the second growing season (apply in early spring). Bearing trees need 1/2 to one pound of actual fertilizer (2 to 5 pounds of 20-0-0 fertilizer). Apply most of this in the early spring before bud break with a light application after fruit thinning. Be sure to water in well and broadcast to beyond the drip line. Composted manure can also be applied during the winter dormant season. If the tree begins to look unhealthy, please contact us again. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: EarthLady3@aol.com >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Apple Tree - Falling Leaves >Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 13:44:32 EDT > >Dear Gardeners, > >We planted two apple trees here in Tucson about two months ago. They have >been thriving and putting forth new growth. This week we noticed that some >of >the leaves on one of them (Anna's) have been turning bright yellow and >falling >off within a day or two. It is too early for them to go into winter >dormancy >isn't it? Any suggestions? The watering schedule has not changed and the >tree (Dorsett) next to it still looks fine. > >Many thanks in advance for your help, >Connie _________________________________________________________________ Instant message with integrated webcam using MSN Messenger 6.0. Try it now FREE! http://msnmessenger-download.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Sep 26 16:19:35 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 16:19:35 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] natural pruning - Texas Rangers Message-ID: Check Eric Johnson's book, "Pruning, Planting & Care" for specific information. What you want to do is cut every other branch back to the first large "V". Vary length of cuts randomly from 6 to 9 inches long. THis will open up the interior to sunlight. It will help create a more natural appearance. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: dahlfamily@worldnet.att.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 11:39:39 -0700 (MST) > >We have 3 sage bushes. I think they are Texas Sage or something similar. >For 7 1/2 years they have been pruned by hedge trimmers into ball shapes. >I think they look awful. I have lately read that pruning them with hedge >trimmers is wrong, but I don't know how to undo the damage of 7+ years. >Any suggestions? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ High-speed Internet access as low as $29.95/month (depending on the local service providers in your area). Click here. https://broadband.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Sep 26 16:12:08 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 16:12:08 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] water garden in fountain Message-ID: Try this website for information: tucsonwatergardeners.tripod.com/ Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Taylorbaron@msn.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 15:57:04 -0700 (MST) > >Is it possible to grow a year-round water garden in our fountain? We live >in the Carefree area. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Instant message during games with MSN Messenger 6.0. Download it now FREE! http://msnmessenger-download.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Sep 26 16:38:31 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 16:38:31 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] plants that deter rabbits Message-ID: I do not know of any plants that will deter rabbits. There are some plants they are less likely to eat, but if hungry enough they will eat almost any plant. We have a great online publication on this topic at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/animals/rabbit.htm It includes a link to plants that have little appeal to rabbits. Be forewarned that if you do not use some sort of barrier [or keep dogs/cats outdoors in a rural area] the rabbits may still eat foliage that is said to be otherwise unappealing in years of extreme drought. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: jerica@xeriscapes.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2003 14:40:37 -0700 (MST) > >Can you tell me if there are specific plants (cacti and succulents) that >deter rabbits? > >Thank you. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Instant message with integrated webcam using MSN Messenger 6.0. Try it now FREE! http://msnmessenger-download.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Sep 26 15:50:47 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 15:50:47 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] fruit trees, vegetable garden Message-ID: This web site is a good place to start: http://cals.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/library/ref-grdn.htm Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: dahlfamily@worldnet.att.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 11:45:35 -0700 (MST) > >I have a new small backyard in Gilbert, AZ and would like to try planting >edible plants like fruit trees and vegetables. Is there a book or a web >site that has a variety of photos showing many successful food gardens in >the arid desert? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ High-speed Internet access as low as $29.95/month (depending on the local service providers in your area). Click here. https://broadband.msn.com From zoniemarcy@qwest.net Fri Sep 26 15:44:42 2003 From: zoniemarcy@qwest.net (zoniemarcy@qwest.net) Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 08:44:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309261544.h8QFigA1029141@Ag.arizona.edu> Is there a disease or insect infestation which is killing well established cactus plants in the East Valley? I have lost several large agave plants and this morning I see my 5 foot tall cactus is collapsing. This cactus is a different variety (flat pads with small needles). The cactus plants collapse, turn brown, and appear to rot from center out with a gooey black mass inside. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Sep 26 15:12:31 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 15:12:31 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] growing avacado Message-ID: Avocado will grow but usually don't produce fruit. For more information contact: Arizona Rare Fruit Growers http://cals.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/sub-trpc.htm Meet at 7:00 p.m. the second Thursday of each month, Palo Verde room The University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ Contact: Dick Gross, 623-939-4570; E-mail; rkgross3@cox.net http://home.earthlink.net/~tropicalfruit/ -------------- Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: JamieandAaron@msn.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2003 16:52:59 -0700 (MST) > >We were just wondering if an avacado tree would grow in the valley? > >Thank you > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Instant message with integrated webcam using MSN Messenger 6.0. Try it now FREE! http://msnmessenger-download.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Sep 26 15:07:29 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 15:07:29 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bulletins available online Message-ID: The pdf version is available online. Go to this location for information: http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/summary/az1100ndx.html It is also available for sale online. See this site for details: http://pubs1.cals.arizona.edu/sales/index.cfm Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: landelius8@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 16:48:10 -0700 (MST) > >How do I get a coppy of publication AZ1100 - flowers? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Add MSN 8 Internet Software to your existing Internet access and enjoy patented spam protection and more. Sign up now! http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/byoa From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Sep 26 15:01:43 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 15:01:43 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] landscape ideas Message-ID: You did not say what part of the country you live in and this is important to choose plants that will thrive. If you are in southern Arizona, popular evergreen shrubs include rosemary, ruellia, several different salvias, myrtle, texas rangers -- many, many others. Shade trees that are often used include acacias, palo verdes, mesquites, various ashes -- depends on whether you want evergreen or deciduous, how much space you have and what kind of a "look" you are trying to create (natural desert, oasis, Mediterrean, southwestern, etc.) you may want to take some time to look at different landscapes, find out what kind of "look" you want and then visit nurseries to find plants that will work in your overall plan. Good luck and happy hunting for your perfect plants! Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: karlinick@yahoo.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 10:05:40 -0700 (MST) > >Would like to plant year-round green plants in back yard easy to care for . >. . what do you suggest?? > >Also what shade tree?? > >Thank you!! Barb > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Share your photos without swamping your Inbox. Get Hotmail Extra Storage today! http://join.msn.com/?PAGE=features/es From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Sep 26 14:51:18 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 14:51:18 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] transplanting blue potato bush Message-ID: You could try to transplant. You have nothing to lose if the plant cannot remain in its present location. The best time to try transplanting is in the fall. Water the plant well; dig up as much of the root ball as you can move. Place in the new hole, being careful to plant to the same depth as the plant was originally (don't allow soil to come up onto the stems.) Continue to water even if the plant wilts and loses leaves after the transplant. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: mldyge@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 12:15:07 -0700 (MST) > >Hello > I planted a blue potato bush in my flower garden that has become too >large for the space. I was wondering if I could transplant it to a better >location without killing it. It has been in this spot in my garden for 1 >year & 4 months so it is well established. >I appreciate any help you can give me. >Thank-you. >Melody Geary > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Add MSN 8 Internet Software to your existing Internet access and enjoy patented spam protection and more. Sign up now! http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/byoa From mapa188@cs.com Fri Sep 26 21:17:20 2003 From: mapa188@cs.com (mapa188@cs.com) Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 14:17:20 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309262117.h8QLHKA1006853@Ag.arizona.edu> I mulch my garden and that creates a great habitat for sow/pill bugs. I have so many pill bugs that I think there is more volume of bug than soil. What can I use to kill the bugs yet spare my earthworms. Or....is there anything good about pill/sow bugs? Thank you, mary page From yael@tao.ca Sat Sep 27 02:03:55 2003 From: yael@tao.ca (yael) Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 02:03:55 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] garden questions In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20030927020355.7CF4717DCD9@dojo.tao.ca> hi all, i live in tucson and i just planted some garbanzo beans, peas and cilantro in my backyard. and there's already three anthills. will ants hurt the seedlings? can i grow greens amongst the amaranth? i want to keep it there because it's already there and also because i hear you can make flour out of the grain. i have some l'itoi onions but not sure how deep to plant them... i also have some wildflowers and fava beans... there's dappled shade from a mesquite tree on the garden, will that hurt the plants? also i get a lot of shade because of the house shadow...but they all still get some sunlight, is that okay? lastly, does anyone know where to get a small amount of compost or manure or potting soil near downtown? i just have a tiny bike basket... From sbarvian1@cableaz.com Fri Sep 26 16:58:51 2003 From: sbarvian1@cableaz.com (Scott Barvian) Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 09:58:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] "Garden Guy" Message-ID: <003501c3844f$7681b280$2824a8c0@lbmelman> >> A favorite book is Extreme Gardening, put out by the GardenGuy who >> has a show no channel 3 on Saturdays. I'm never quite sure what to think of the "Garden Guy". His advice seems well-intentioned, but sometimes his show seems like an informercial for his (organic gardening) products. And the style of the show can sometimes be really annoying, like most of channel 3's locally produced stuff. From Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com Fri Sep 26 19:00:32 2003 From: Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com (Zelhart Alan-rpcs30) Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 12:00:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] RE: "Garden Guy" Message-ID: <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B99307077A052E@az33exm25.corp.mot.com> I'm not really impressed with the GardenGuy himself either. And you are right, there is some infomercial going on. But the nitty gritty of what is recommends in his book has been very beneficial for me. Especially in helping my roses with heat stress. I tend to overlook the character and try to learn from the content of his shows when I do watch them ;) -- Chat with you later, Alan -- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ----- Alan Zelhart gizmoaz@cox.net Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- "If at first you don't succeed, call it v10!""" -----Original Message----- From: Scott Barvian [mailto:sbarvian1@cableaz.com] Sent: Friday, September 26, 2003 9:59 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Cc: Alan Zelhart Subject: "Garden Guy" >> A favorite book is Extreme Gardening, put out by the GardenGuy who >> has a show no channel 3 on Saturdays. I'm never quite sure what to think of the "Garden Guy". His advice seems well-intentioned, but sometimes his show seems like an informercial for his (organic gardening) products. And the style of the show can sometimes be really annoying, like most of channel 3's locally produced stuff. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Sep 27 14:37:27 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 14:37:27 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] garden questions Message-ID: Sounds like a wonderful Tucson garden! First, you may want to check out a nearby community garden, voted one of Tucson's best. Here is the media hype: Dunbar Spring Neighborhood Garden 11th Avenue and University Boulevard READERS' PICK: This feels like one of those funky hipster gardens on New York's Lower East Side. There are round beds, square beds, spirally beds, ornamental junk, murals by neighbors, a bulletin board with intriguing neighborhood and garden gossip, flowers, fruit trees, veggies and perennials. It's especially magical at night when moonlight floods the paths and the sunflowers glow in the dark and the sounds of crickets and trains take over. This garden makes us want to sell our Santa Fe-style foothills palace with the pool in the gated community and move to Dunbar Spring, grow all our own food, and become artists. I believe they make their own compost and you can probably get some there. Dunbar/Spring Organic Community Garden 813 North 9th Avenue Tucson, AZ 85705 Phone: 520/ 882-9443 bradlank@aol.com ------------------------------------------------------------------ Ants - there are several species of ants in Tucson with very differnt lifestyles. Many are beneficial and all are great soil workers (they are the equivalent of earthworms, but in a desert soil). The ones that gardeners don't like are harvesters (collect seeds primarily) and leafcutters (can remove all the leaves from a plant in one night). We have grown greens around our amaranth (it is also a dye plant). If you have onion sets, plant them about an inch below ground. Dappled shade is usually a god thing. Winter vegetables need less shade than summer ones. If the mesquite is a native, it will lose most of its leaves in winter and open up the area to more sun. happy gardening! Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "yael" >Reply-To: yael@tao.ca >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] garden questions >Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 02:03:55 -0000 > >hi all, >i live in tucson and i just planted some garbanzo beans, peas and cilantro >in my backyard. and there's already three anthills. will ants hurt the >seedlings? > >can i grow greens amongst the amaranth? i want to keep it there because >it's >already there and also because i hear you can make flour out of the grain. > >i have some l'itoi onions but not sure how deep to plant them... > >i also have some wildflowers and fava beans... > >there's dappled shade from a mesquite tree on the garden, will that hurt >the >plants? also i get a lot of shade because of the house shadow...but they >all >still get some sunlight, is that okay? > >lastly, does anyone know where to get a small amount of compost or manure >or >potting soil near downtown? i just have a tiny bike basket... >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Instant message during games with MSN Messenger 6.0. Download it now FREE! http://msnmessenger-download.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Sep 27 14:22:12 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 14:22:12 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Agave weevil, cactus rot Message-ID: Agave (these are succulents, but not cactus): The symptoms sound like the Agave weevil. This is a recent response to a similar question: I suspect that the problem with your agaves is caused by the Agave Weevil an insect about one inch long with a long snout The weevil chews into the leaves of agaves introducing a bacterial rot that appears to be necessary for larval development. The adults lay eggs in the holes and the larvae burrow into the plant. Infested plants exhibit wilting and wrinkled leaves. Plants should be removed and destroyed as soon as the damage is evident. The larvae resemble white grubs and should be removed from the soil and killed. To help prevent damage to agaves in the future an insecticide such as Diazanon granules should be applied to the soil around the plants in May and June. (actual cause of death is a bacterial rot introduced by the insects) Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ---------------------------- Cactus It is possible the cactus has a bacterial rot. Our recent wet weather can encourage this infection. If only one area is involved, you can scoop out the diseased tissue to clean, healthy tissue, the treat the area with a 10 percent bleach solution and allow it to dry and callous over naturally. Linda Drew Masater Gardener >From: zoniemarcy@qwest.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 08:44:42 -0700 (MST) > >Is there a disease or insect infestation which is killing well established >cactus plants in the East Valley? I have lost several large agave plants >and this morning I see my 5 foot tall cactus is collapsing. This cactus is >a different variety (flat pads with small needles). The cactus plants >collapse, turn brown, and appear to rot from center out with a gooey black >mass inside. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Instant message with integrated webcam using MSN Messenger 6.0. Try it now FREE! http://msnmessenger-download.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Sep 27 13:57:06 2003 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 13:57:06 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] sow bugs/pill bugs Message-ID: Sowbugs/pillbugs are crustaceans (like shrimp and crab). They can only live in the desert in moist environments, such as your mulch area. It sounds like your mulch area may be very moist and you might want to try letting it dry out a bit. On the other hand, sowbugs and earthworms are partners; both need moisture and both are regarded as beneficial in breaking down dead organic matter in the garden. Both also serve as another food source for birds and lizards in your garden eating pests. Linda Drew Master Gardener Sowbugs can damage seedlings that have just emerged from the ground but I don't know of any other harm they cause. >From: mapa188@cs.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 14:17:20 -0700 (MST) > >I mulch my garden and that creates a great habitat for sow/pill bugs. I >have so many pill bugs that I think there is more volume of bug than soil. >What can I use to kill the bugs yet spare my earthworms. Or....is there >anything good about pill/sow bugs? Thank you, mary page > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get McAfee virus scanning and cleaning of incoming attachments. Get Hotmail Extra Storage! http://join.msn.com/?PAGE=features/es From watsontl@mindspring.com Sat Sep 27 04:41:10 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 21:41:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ants, I'itoi, etc. References: <20030927020355.7CF4717DCD9@dojo.tao.ca> Message-ID: <002701c384b1$942cfd00$8d40b83f@S0029317241> If they are the large, reddish leaf cutter ants, they might be a problem. If they are small (1/4" or less) they shouldn't be any trouble (unless they sting - some of the little guys are surprisingly fierce!) I've never tried to grow anything with amaranth, but as long as the larger plants are not shading out the greens, it just might work. Try it, and let us know how it goes. For information on planting those onions, I would recommend contacting Native Seeds/SEARCH. The link to their web site: http://www.nativeseeds.org The shade from the mesquite should not trouble you, and in fact may help you in the heat of summer. The house is, of course, another matter. It depends on the plant, but most plants need the better part of the day in sunshine in order to be productive. You may have a problem there. I don't know the downtown area well enough to help you with the last question. Best of luck! Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "yael" To: Sent: Friday, September 26, 2003 7:03 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] garden questions > hi all, > i live in tucson and i just planted some garbanzo beans, peas and cilantro > in my backyard. and there's already three anthills. will ants hurt the > seedlings? > > can i grow greens amongst the amaranth? i want to keep it there because it's > already there and also because i hear you can make flour out of the grain. > > i have some l'itoi onions but not sure how deep to plant them... > > i also have some wildflowers and fava beans... > > there's dappled shade from a mesquite tree on the garden, will that hurt the > plants? also i get a lot of shade because of the house shadow...but they all > still get some sunlight, is that okay? > > lastly, does anyone know where to get a small amount of compost or manure or > potting soil near downtown? i just have a tiny bike basket... > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From watsontl@mindspring.com Sat Sep 27 04:32:59 2003 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 21:32:59 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sow Bugs References: <200309262117.h8QLHKA1006853@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <002001c384b0$6ee70410$8d40b83f@S0029317241> I have been told that sow bugs are often blamed for the loss of seedlings, but I have not seen it happen in my garden. I mulch heavily and have millions of these odd little creatures, and we have all gotten along fine. They feed on soil fungi and decaying vegetation, and so are part of the recycling system of the soil that ultimately makes the nutrients in organic material available to plants. They are also found in great numbers in compost bins, where they speed the composting process by breaking down larger particles into smaller bits that decay more readily. If you believe you see any cause for concern, pull the mulch well back from young seedlings, and the sow bugs will for the most part, stick with the mulch. Or cut back a bit on your watering, since they thrive only in moist areas. (In fact, if you have THAT many sow bugs, you may be more generous with watering than you need to be.) Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, September 26, 2003 2:17 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I mulch my garden and that creates a great habitat for sow/pill bugs. I have so many pill bugs that I think there is more volume of bug than soil. What can I use to kill the bugs yet spare my earthworms. Or....is there anything good about pill/sow bugs? Thank you, mary page > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From hwd76@localnet.com Sat Sep 27 20:50:29 2003 From: hwd76@localnet.com (hwd76@localnet.com) Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 13:50:29 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309272050.h8RKoTA1006421@Ag.arizona.edu> Have pocket gophers eating my peppers and tomatillos. digging holes in my garden. Help! what will send them away? Would diatomatious earth, spred around help? any information will be appreciated. From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net Sun Sep 28 05:05:42 2003 From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 22:05:42 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200309262117.h8QLHKA1006853@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <008b01c3857e$31336090$2252530c@olin> Pill bugs will usually feed on decayed matter. But many of us have observed them also feeding on seedlings if the population becomes too numerous. Sanitation in and around the garden where they hide in the daytime (under boards, rocks, etc.) seems to help. From http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/pillbugssowbugs.html : "Pillbugs and Sowbugs These crustacean relatives of insects are about 1" long, usually grayish, with 7 pairs of short legs, 2 pairs of tail-like rear appendages and a hard, shell-like covering above. They breathe by gills and live mostly in moist areas. Pillbugs roll into a compact ball when disturbed, sowbugs remain elongated. They commonly feed on moist decaying vegetable matter but may also attack seedlings, new roots and tender stems of living plants. They are most active at night and hide during the day in damp locations such as under stones, boards, flowerpots or tubs, mulches and plant debris. Garden sanitation, including exposure of such hiding places to light, ventilation and dryness may serve to reduce their numbers. Insecticide applications are seldom necessary." Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > I mulch my garden and that creates a great habitat for sow/pill bugs. I have so many pill bugs that I think there is more volume of bug than soil. What can I use to kill the bugs yet spare my earthworms. Or....is there anything good about pill/sow bugs? Thank you, mary page From popsy97@yahoo.com Sun Sep 28 19:41:16 2003 From: popsy97@yahoo.com (Judy Braden) Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 12:41:16 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200309272050.h8RKoTA1006421@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20030928194116.65069.qmail@web11008.mail.yahoo.com> Trapping them seems to work best for us. We've tried other means but nothing works as well as traps. We have more success with box traps - they're like large covered mouse traps - than the wire traps. Also easier to deal with removal of the trapee. --- hwd76@localnet.com wrote: > Have pocket gophers eating my peppers and > tomatillos. digging holes in my garden. Help! > what will send them away? > Would diatomatious earth, spred around help? > any information will be appreciated. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search http://shopping.yahoo.com From Gtstern@aol.com Sun Sep 28 20:16:31 2003 From: Gtstern@aol.com (Gtstern@aol.com) Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 13:16:31 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309282016.h8SKGVA1020840@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a lime, orange and a lemon tree. I need to have information about pruning. Where can I get it Glad Stern From jon.mclin@cox.net Mon Sep 29 02:11:09 2003 From: jon.mclin@cox.net (jon.mclin@cox.net) Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 19:11:09 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309290211.h8T2B9A1024927@Ag.arizona.edu> Dying Acacia Tree I have a sweet acacia tree in my front yard which is dying back. The infected branches/limbs first show splitting of the bark, then the bark blackens, and finally the limb dies. Under the bark in the dead areas there is an orangish tinge. I cut off all of the visibly affected limbs, but the infection continues unabated. Can someone provide guidance? (what is the problem, what should I do to salvage the tree or preclude tranmission to other trees in the neighborhood, what other trees would be at risk, etc.)? Best regards, Jon From okolehau1@cox.net Mon Sep 29 15:43:59 2003 From: okolehau1@cox.net (okolehau1@cox.net) Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 11:43:59 -0400 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tree Identity Message-ID: <20030929154401.JDZF29846.fed1mtao02.cox.net@smtp.west.cox.net> A message for anyone with a knowledge of tree & the Phoenix Art Museum grounds. I am trying to identify a tree located on the grounds of the Phoenix Art Museum. It is situated adjacent to the restaurant, fountain and concrete steps that lead up to the level of the off street/back entrance of the museum. I believe it is from the Acacia family from the seed pods. However, this tree is quite large. Thanks in advance for any assistance. From okolehau1@cox.net Mon Sep 29 16:14:55 2003 From: okolehau1@cox.net (okolehau1@cox.net) Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 12:14:55 -0400 Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: <20030929161459.FXKS14291.fed1mtao08.cox.net@smtp.west.cox.net> I will apologize upfront for not saving the address that you have given out so many times before. However, the "fuzzy-woolys" are back on my Southern Live Oak. These appear to be fresh & unhatched egg cases located on the underside of the leaves. Can you give me the address that I can walk-in or send a specimen to. I would like to identify what these are & ascertain if a treatment is available. The affected leaves will turn brown & drop off in the spring. There are a lot of them From kjatjh@cableaz.com Mon Sep 29 16:45:55 2003 From: kjatjh@cableaz.com (kjatjh@cableaz.com) Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 09:45:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309291645.h8TGjtA1023494@Ag.arizona.edu> I hope I have reached the right officer, if I have not, please forward this email. I have African Spur Tortoises (also known as sulcata) that grow to 150lbs. I live in Mesa and have an average size shaded home lot. I need to grow grasses for the tortoises but do not know which of the following would grow in my area and conditions, which would grow together, or when they should be planted. The following is a list of recommended grasses for these tortoises, they also recommend a feeding a variety of them. Can you please advise? Buffalo grass (Buchloe dactyloides) Bermuda grass (Cynodon dactylon -- which actually originated in Africa!) Orchardgrass (Dactylis glomerata) Big Bluestem (Andropogon gerardii) Little Bluestem (Andropogon scoparious) Western wheatgrass (Agropyron smithii) Blue Grama (Bouteloua gracilis) Arizona Fescue (Festuca arizonica) Lawn Fescue (Festuca arundinacea) Sheep Fescue (Festuca ovina) Creeping Red Fescue (Festuca rubra) From tkrilling@cox.net Mon Sep 29 20:11:48 2003 From: tkrilling@cox.net (tkrilling@cox.net) Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 13:11:48 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309292011.h8TKBmA1013668@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like to know the lifespan of both African Sumac and Mesquite trees. The house I purchased has two African Sumacs, which are probably about 20 years old. They are VERY high maintenance. I'm wondering about replacing them with one or two Mesquite trees, which also demand a certain degree of maintenance, but I don't think they are quite as bad as the A.S. Does this make sense to you? Thanks for any imput you can provide. From jburnssmith@yahoo.com Mon Sep 29 17:57:01 2003 From: jburnssmith@yahoo.com (jburnssmith@yahoo.com) Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 10:57:01 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309291757.h8THv1A1011531@Ag.arizona.edu> I recently purchased a property with two mature grapefruit tress. Each has a few dead branches. Is there a better/worse time/method to trim them off? What suggestions do you have for caring for mature trees? From duane.floyd@pinnaclewest.com Mon Sep 29 20:42:32 2003 From: duane.floyd@pinnaclewest.com (duane.floyd@pinnaclewest.com) Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 13:42:32 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309292042.h8TKgWA1020877@Ag.arizona.edu> I just purchased a new home and have a tree I have never seen before. The truck is uniformly covered with thons thst most resemble taht of a rose bush. It has small semi-round leaves and a smooth, greyish back above the thorn cover. Any hints? Thank you, Duane From rodmcq6@highstream.net Mon Sep 29 21:59:18 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 14:59:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Acacia Tree dying References: <200309290211.h8T2B9A1024927@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <001301c386d4$efaeb9a0$aaa9db43@ibmbna6040> I would suggest that you take a sample tree limb to U. of A., Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for an opinion. If possible make the cut on the branch where you have some live wood as well as the split bark and the orange tint. The diagnostic clinic meets early Friday morning, you do not have to be there for someone will call you with the results. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2003 7:11 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Dying Acacia Tree > > I have a sweet acacia tree in my front yard which is dying back. The infected branches/limbs first show splitting of the bark, then the bark blackens, and finally the limb dies. Under the bark in the dead areas there is an orangish tinge. I cut off all of the visibly affected limbs, but the infection continues unabated. Can someone provide guidance? (what is the problem, what should I do to salvage the tree or preclude tranmission to other trees in the neighborhood, what other trees would be at risk, etc.)? > > Best regards, > Jon > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From lveith@oasisanimalclinic.com Mon Sep 29 23:29:15 2003 From: lveith@oasisanimalclinic.com (lveith@oasisanimalclinic.com) Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 16:29:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309292329.h8TNTFA1027299@Ag.arizona.edu> I treat a lot of dogs and cats with pollen allergies. Is there any source where I can find pollenating seasons for the weeds, trees and shrubs indigenous to the Phoenix valley area Thanks for your immediate reply Leland Veith From ainsley@azorchids.com Tue Sep 30 00:05:53 2003 From: ainsley@azorchids.com (Ainsley LaCour) Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 17:05:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] The Desert Garden Institute Presents: Container Gardening for Fall Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20030929170458.01bee2a8@cals.arizona.edu> --=====================_33652419==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed The Desert Garden Institute Public Classes Taught by Master Gardeners presents Container Gardening for Fall Wednesday, October 1, 2003 6:00 p.m. - 9:00 p.m. Instructor: Cherie Czaplicki Cost: $20 Public, No charge for Master Gardeners To register: 602-470-8086 x 823 ainsley@azorchids.com Don't miss our last class of the year. Cherie will share her secrets for growing a fabulous container garden in any season. Join us for a "Show and Tell" session, hands-on demonstrations and DOOR PRIZES!! Tell your friends! --=====================_33652419==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
 

The Desert Garden Institute
Public Classes Taught by Master Gardeners
presents
Container Gardening for Fall
Wednesday, October 1, 2003
6:00 p.m. - 9:00 p.m.
Instructor:  Cherie Czaplicki

Cost:  $20 Public, No charge for Master Gardeners
To register:  602-470-8086 x 823
ainsley@azorchids.com <mailto:ainsley@azorchids.com>



Don't miss our last class of the year.  Cherie will share her secrets for growing a fabulous container garden in any season.  Join us for a "Show and Tell" session, hands-on demonstrations and DOOR PRIZES!!  Tell your friends!
--=====================_33652419==_.ALT-- From guy.schneider@sbcglobal.net Tue Sep 30 05:28:55 2003 From: guy.schneider@sbcglobal.net (Guy Schneider) Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 22:28:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Help in selecting the right tree Message-ID: <000001c38713$befc4cc0$6701a8c0@HomeOffice> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0001_01C386D9.129D74C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Dear tree expert: I was told you might be able to help me - I live in San Diego within 2.5 miles of the beach. I am looking for a unique tree that will be the centerpiece (actually at the far end) of my home courtyard (apx. 20' x 50'). There are buildings on both sides of the courtyard but the = planted area does receive direct sun for 3/4 of the day. I don=92t want = something with dense foliage and would prefer to have something that blossoms uniquely. Their will be a small arbor that wraps around the back of it = with vine growth. I am considering the following and want to know what you = think might be the best choice (it can be one not listed). I want the tree to grow fairly quick but not more than 25 feet tall. The rest of the = courtyard is poured concrete so I need to be concerned with the strength of the = root system as I don=92t want it to break my concrete. * Cockspur Coral * Hong Kong Orchid * Brazilian Butterfly * Pink Flame * Cape Chestnut * Morton Bay Chestnut * Chinese Fringe Tree * Pink Dawn * Kiffirboom * Michelia * African Tulip * Golden Trumpet * Ipe, Pink Trumpet * Yellow Elder Your advice is appreciated. Regards, =20 Guy Schneider guy.schneider@sbcglobal.net 760-943-0529 ------=_NextPart_000_0001_01C386D9.129D74C0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Help in selecting the right tree

Dear tree expert:

I was told you might be able to help me - I live = in San Diego within 2.5 miles of the beach.  I am looking for a = unique tree that will be the centerpiece (actually at the far end) of my = home courtyard (apx.  20' x 50').  There are buildings on both = sides of the courtyard but the planted area does receive direct sun for = 3/4 of the day.  I don’t want something with dense foliage = and would prefer to have something that blossoms uniquely.  Their = will be a small arbor that wraps around the back of it with vine = growth.  I am considering the following and want to know what you = think might be the best choice (it can be one not listed).  I want = the tree to grow fairly quick but not more than 25 feet tall.  The = rest of the courtyard is poured concrete so I need to be concerned with = the strength of the root system as I don’t want it to break my = concrete.


  • Cockspur Coral
  • Hong Kong Orchid
  • Brazilian Butterfly
  • Pink Flame
  • Cape Chestnut
  • Morton Bay Chestnut
  • Chinese Fringe Tree
  • Pink Dawn
  • Kiffirboom
  • Michelia
  • African Tulip
  • Golden Trumpet
  • Ipe, Pink Trumpet
  • Yellow Elder


Your advice is appreciated.

Regards,
=A0
Guy = Schneider
guy.schneider@sbcglobal.net
760-943-0529

------=_NextPart_000_0001_01C386D9.129D74C0-- From GJHadleyx6@aol.com Tue Sep 30 21:20:40 2003 From: GJHadleyx6@aol.com (GJHadleyx6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 14:20:40 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309302120.h8ULKeA1029564@Ag.arizona.edu> My son took a yam or sweet potato that had sprouted and planted it in my garden. The garden is now being over run by the plant. I am new to growing yams and am wondering how I tell when they are ready to harvest and if there is anything special I should be doing to the plant. From dbeverly@cox.net Tue Sep 30 17:25:53 2003 From: dbeverly@cox.net (dbeverly@cox.net) Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 10:25:53 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309301725.h8UHPrA1004716@Ag.arizona.edu> I am having a problem with the leaves of my tomato plants, curling upward and becoming very rigid. I was wondering what this was, and how to remedy the situation? Thank you. From rodmcq6@highstream.net Tue Sep 30 22:48:09 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 15:48:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Grapefruit Tree References: <000801c38765$1c1a05e0$e5c943d8@johnelle09mhat> Message-ID: <004701c387a4$ee1d74c0$e704e043@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0044_01C3876A.3F286180 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Johnnie, Bullhead City is listed in zone 13 the same as the Phoenix area and = Marsh and Redblush grapefruit are recommended for our area.=20 I suggest that you call your county Cooperative Extension, they will = know your area better than we do. You will find them listed under county = government in your phone book. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ---- Original Message -----=20 From: Johnnie B=20 To: rodmcq6@highstream.net=20 Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2003 8:11 AM Subject: Grapefruit Tree I live in Bullhead City, AZ and was wondering what type of Grapefruit = tree would grow best in our climate. Can you please advise? Thank you. = Johnnie B ------=_NextPart_000_0044_01C3876A.3F286180 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Johnnie,
Bullhead City is listed in zone 13 the same as the = Phoenix=20 area and Marsh and Redblush grapefruit are recommended for our = area.=20
I suggest that you call your county Cooperative = Extension,=20 they will know your area better than we do. You will find them listed = under=20 county government in your phone book.
 
Good luck.
 
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
---- Original Message -----
From:=20 Johnnie B
Sent: Tuesday, September 30, = 2003 8:11=20 AM
Subject: Grapefruit Tree

I live in Bullhead City, AZ and was = wondering=20 what type of Grapefruit tree would grow best in our climate.  Can = you=20 please advise?  Thank you.
 
 
Johnnie = B
------=_NextPart_000_0044_01C3876A.3F286180-- From jerico@fastq.com Tue Sep 30 22:29:48 2003 From: jerico@fastq.com (jerico@fastq.com) Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 15:29:48 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309302229.h8UMTmA1014103@Ag.arizona.edu> Will Passiflora vitifolia do well in the Phoenix area? (I am currently growing P. caerulea on NE corner of my patio, and it is doing well.) Thanks. From amzinprogress@aol.com Tue Sep 30 22:25:14 2003 From: amzinprogress@aol.com (amzinprogress@aol.com) Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 15:25:14 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200309302225.h8UMPEA1013208@Ag.arizona.edu> Does anyone know where I can purchase a soil probe in the Phoenix area? I just want to test the ground to see how often I need to deep water trees. I have heard of the suggestion of using rebar, however, it's for a church and I was asked to purchase a real one. From rodmcq6@highstream.net Tue Sep 30 22:56:45 2003 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 15:56:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Help in selecting the right tree References: <000001c38713$befc4cc0$6701a8c0@HomeOffice> Message-ID: <005b01c387a6$264e6a60$e704e043@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0058_01C3876B.72DC5A80 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Help in selecting the right treeGuy, Your climate is entirely different from what we have here in the low = desert of Arizona and so are the trees that we are familiar to us. I suggest that you call your county Cooperative Extension who will be = familiar with your area. You will find them listed in your phone book = under County Government. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Guy Schneider=20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Monday, September 29, 2003 10:28 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Help in selecting the right tree Dear tree expert:=20 I was told you might be able to help me - I live in San Diego within = 2.5 miles of the beach. I am looking for a unique tree that will be the = centerpiece (actually at the far end) of my home courtyard (apx. 20' x = 50'). There are buildings on both sides of the courtyard but the = planted area does receive direct sun for 3/4 of the day. I don't want = something with dense foliage and would prefer to have something that = blossoms uniquely. Their will be a small arbor that wraps around the = back of it with vine growth. I am considering the following and want to = know what you think might be the best choice (it can be one not listed). = I want the tree to grow fairly quick but not more than 25 feet tall. = The rest of the courtyard is poured concrete so I need to be concerned = with the strength of the root system as I don't want it to break my = concrete. a.. Cockspur Coral=20 b.. Hong Kong Orchid=20 c.. Brazilian Butterfly=20 d.. Pink Flame=20 e.. Cape Chestnut=20 f.. Morton Bay Chestnut=20 g.. Chinese Fringe Tree=20 h.. Pink Dawn=20 i.. Kiffirboom=20 j.. Michelia=20 k.. African Tulip=20 l.. Golden Trumpet=20 m.. Ipe, Pink Trumpet=20 n.. Yellow Elder=20 Your advice is appreciated.=20 Regards,=20 =20 Guy Schneider=20 guy.schneider@sbcglobal.net=20 760-943-0529=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0058_01C3876B.72DC5A80 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Help in selecting the right tree
Guy,
Your climate is entirely different from what we have = here in=20 the low desert of Arizona and so are the trees that we are familiar to=20 us.
I suggest that you call your county Cooperative = Extension who=20 will be familiar with your area. You will find them listed in your phone = book=20 under County Government.
 
Good luck.
 
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
 
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Guy Schneider
Sent: Monday, September 29, = 2003 10:28=20 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Help = in=20 selecting the right tree

Dear tree expert:

I was told you might be able to help me - I live = in San=20 Diego within 2.5 miles of the beach.  I am looking for a unique = tree that=20 will be the centerpiece (actually at the far end) of my home courtyard = (apx.  20' x 50').  There are buildings on both sides of the = courtyard but the planted area does receive direct sun for 3/4 of the=20 day.  I don=92t want something with dense foliage and would = prefer to have=20 something that blossoms uniquely.  Their will be a small arbor = that wraps=20 around the back of it with vine growth.  I am considering the = following=20 and want to know what you think might be the best choice (it can be = one not=20 listed).  I want the tree to grow fairly quick but not more than = 25 feet=20 tall.  The rest of the courtyard is poured concrete so I need to = be=20 concerned with the strength of the root system as I don=92t want it to = break my=20 concrete.


  • Cockspur Coral=20
  • Hong Kong Orchid=20
  • Brazilian Butterfly=20
  • Pink Flame=20
  • Cape Chestnut=20
  • Morton Bay Chestnut=20
  • Chinese Fringe Tree=20
  • Pink Dawn=20
  • Kiffirboom=20
  • Michelia=20
  • African Tulip=20
  • Golden Trumpet=20
  • Ipe, Pink Trumpet=20
  • Yellow Elder

Your advice is appreciated.

Regards,
 =20
Guy = Schneider=20
guy.schneider@sbcglobal.net
760-943-0529

------=_NextPart_000_0058_01C3876B.72DC5A80-- From okolehau1@cox.net Mon Sep 29 15:43:24 2003 From: okolehau1@cox.net (okolehau1@cox.net) Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2003 11:43:24 -0400 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tree Identity Message-ID: <20030929154326.JDWA29846.fed1mtao02.cox.net@smtp.west.cox.net> A message for anyone with a knowledge of tree & the Phoenix Art Museum grounds. I am trying to identify a tree located on the grounds of the Phoenix Art Museum. It is situated adjacent to the restaurant, fountain and concrete steps that lead up to the level of the off street/back entrance of the museum. I believe it is from the Acacia family from the seed pods. However, this tree is quite large. Thanks in advance for any assistance.