From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net Thu Feb 26 17:18:06 2004 From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2004 10:18:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] shrubs & hibiscus References: <009101c3e3a8$5b29c1e0$1f6ebacd@RSIOAQ3YCFIW63> Message-ID: <006101c3fc8c$9032dfa0$fc69480c@olin> ----- Original Message -----From: "Mike Hills" >..we still have chance of a > frost, ... There was ice in our birdbath this morning. -Olin . From cstephens@infinet-is.com Sun Feb 1 01:49:05 2004 From: cstephens@infinet-is.com (Charles Stephens) Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 18:49:05 -0700 Subject: Fw: [Arid_gardener] Question: I'm looking for (proven) organic methods for getting rid of Aphids. Message-ID: <002501c3e865$94469360$1bda13d8@default> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0022_01C3E82A.E6CA6480 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Marc, If you can't find an organic method that works, try spraying with a = solution of a mild a mild liquid dishwashing detergent that does NOT = contain citrus products or a commercial insecticidal soap. If you decide = to try the dishwashing liquid start with about 2 tsp./gal. to make sure = it isn't a product that will harm the plants. You can gradually work up = to about 2 TBSP/gal if need be. If that doesn't work for you there are = products containing Imidacplorid , a systemic, that can be applied as an = annual soil drench and are quite effective at controlling aphids. AS = WITH ALL PESTICIDES BE SURE TO READ THE LABEL AND FOLLOW DIRECTIONS = CAREFULLY. Good luck, Charlie Stephens Master Gardener Maricopa County, AZ Levine ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Marc=20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Friday, January 30, 2004 9:53 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question: I'm looking for (proven) organic = methods for getting rid of Aphids. The little green @#%&*&^ are starting at my roses, and I don't want to = spend the next month squishing them on a twice-daily basis. Squirting = streams of water has gotten old too. =20 This year I'm looking for an effective, organic method to try. Has = anyone had success they'd like to share? =20 How bout' some chemical options, just in case..... =20 Thanks for your help. =20 Mr. Green Thumb (squished aphid reference) ------=_NextPart_000_0022_01C3E82A.E6CA6480 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Marc,

If you can't find an organic method that works, try spraying with a = solution of a mild a mild liquid dishwashing detergent that does NOT = contain=20 citrus products or a commercial insecticidal soap. If you decide to try = the=20 dishwashing liquid start with about 2 tsp./gal. to make sure it isn't a = product=20 that will harm the plants. You can gradually work up to about 2 TBSP/gal = if need=20 be. If that doesn't work for you there are products containing = Imidacplorid , a=20 systemic, that can be applied as an annual soil drench and are quite = effective=20 at controlling aphids. AS WITH ALL PESTICIDES BE SURE TO READ THE LABEL = AND=20 FOLLOW DIRECTIONS CAREFULLY.

Good luck,

Charlie Stephens
Master Gardener
Maricopa County, AZ

Levine

----- Original Message -----=20

From: Marc =

To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu =

Sent: Friday, January 30, 2004 9:53 PM

Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question: I'm looking for (proven) = organic=20 methods for getting rid of Aphids.

The little green @#%&*&^ are = starting at my=20 roses, and I don't want to spend the next month squishing them on a = twice-daily=20 basis. Squirting streams of water has gotten old too.

This year I'm looking for an effective, = organic=20 method to try. Has anyone had success they'd like to = share?

How bout' some chemical options, just = in=20 case.....

Thanks for your help.

Mr. Green Thumb (squished aphid=20 reference)

------=_NextPart_000_0022_01C3E82A.E6CA6480-- From billbetgueho@netzero.net Sun Feb 1 21:32:40 2004 From: billbetgueho@netzero.net (billbetgueho@netzero.net) Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2004 14:32:40 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200402012132.i11LWesZ005770@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like to locate a suggested watering schedule for citrus trees in Maricopa County.The trees are over 5 years old. The schedule should cover a full 12 month period. Thanks From clcohee@gte.net Sun Feb 1 20:31:43 2004 From: clcohee@gte.net (Curt Cohee) Date: Sun, 01 Feb 2004 12:31:43 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Removal of oleander hedge Message-ID: <6.0.0.22.0.20040201122042.027e4200@incoming.verizon.net> --=====================_100339076==.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed The back edge of my lot has a very old (20 years+) growth of oleander across its entire 100 foot length. After cutting away the above ground growth at about 15" above ground level, I have some 24 root crowns ranging in diameter from 12 to 20 inches. This irrigated oleander hedge was/is in vigorous health when it was cut several weeks ago. I now wish to remove the root structures but I am unsure of the best procedure ( and cost) of such an effort. Can you advise me? Thanks for your help Sincerely, Curt Cohee 73-441 Tamarisk Street Palm Desert, CA 92260 760-340-2224 clcohee@gte.net --=====================_100339076==.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" The back edge of my lot has a very old (20 years+) growth of oleander across its entire 100 foot length. After cutting away the above ground growth at about 15" above ground level, I have some 24 root crowns ranging in diameter from 12 to 20 inches. This irrigated oleander hedge was/is in vigorous health when it was cut several weeks ago.

I now wish to remove the root structures but I am unsure of the best procedure ( and cost) of such an effort. Can you advise me?

Thanks for your help

Sincerely,

Curt Cohee
73-441 Tamarisk Street
Palm Desert, CA 92260

760-340-2224
clcohee@gte.net --=====================_100339076==.ALT-- From watsontl@mindspring.com Sun Feb 1 23:28:12 2004 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2004 16:28:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question: I'm looking for (proven) organic methods for getting rid of Aphids. References: <001801c3e7b6$2306acd0$7000a8c0@Marc> Message-ID: <00a901c3e91b$0fe74770$a908b83f@S0029317241> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00A6_01C3E8E0.628BBFF0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I've always found a mild solution of dishwashing liquid (unscented) = works well enough to keep them under control. Start out with half a = teaspoon per gallon and apply it with an ordinary spray bottle. You = can make it stronger if the number of aphids does not go down quickly = enough. For the most part, this trick is safe for aphid predators, who = are not as soft-bodied as aphids. Soap breaks down the waxy cuticle = that forms a natural barrier to preserve the aphid's moisture, and the = aphid dies of dehydration. =20 I have not found the purchase of lady bugs or lacewing eggs to be of any = use at all. The beetles don't stick around and there are plenty of = naturally occurring lacewings anyway. You might consider planting some = sweet alyssum around the roses, if you want to work with beneficial = insects. The tiny, fragrant flowers attract tiny flies and wasps that = parasitize aphids, using the aphids as food for their offspring. The = plain white varieties work best.=20 Using organic means, you probably won't completely eliminate aphids. = However, by using a mild soap spray and encouraging predators by = offering them flowers that feed their adult phases, you should be able = to reduce their numbers to the point that they stop causing problems. Best of luck! Tom ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Marc=20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Friday, January 30, 2004 9:53 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question: I'm looking for (proven) organic = methods for getting rid of Aphids. The little green @#%&*&^ are starting at my roses, and I don't want to = spend the next month squishing them on a twice-daily basis. Squirting = streams of water has gotten old too. This year I'm looking for an effective, organic method to try. Has = anyone had success they'd like to share? How bout' some chemical options, just in case..... Thanks for your help. Mr. Green Thumb (squished aphid reference) ------=_NextPart_000_00A6_01C3E8E0.628BBFF0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I've always found a mild solution of = dishwashing=20 liquid (unscented) works well enough to keep them under=20 control. Start out with half a teaspoon per gallon and apply = it with=20 an ordinary spray bottle. You can make it stronger if the = number of=20 aphids does not go down quickly enough. For the most part, = this=20 trick is safe for aphid predators, who are not as soft-bodied as=20 aphids. Soap breaks down the waxy cuticle that forms a = natural=20 barrier to preserve the aphid's moisture, and the aphid dies = of=20 dehydration.

I have not found the purchase of lady = bugs or=20 lacewing eggs to be of any use at all. The beetles don't = stick=20 around and there are plenty of naturally occurring lacewings = anyway. =20 You might consider planting some sweet alyssum around the roses, if you = want to=20 work with beneficial insects. The tiny, fragrant flowers = attract=20 tiny flies and wasps that parasitize aphids, using the aphids as food = for their=20 offspring. The plain white varieties work = best.

Using organic means, you probably won't = completely=20 eliminate aphids. However, by using a mild soap spray and=20 encouraging predators by offering them flowers that feed their adult = phases, you=20 should be able to reduce their numbers to the point that they stop = causing=20 problems.

Best of luck!

Tom

----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Marc
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= =20

Sent: Friday, January 30, 2004 = 9:53=20 PM

Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Question: I'm=20 looking for (proven) organic methods for getting rid of Aphids.

The little green @#%&*&^ are = starting at=20 my roses, and I don't want to spend the next month squishing them on a = twice-daily basis. Squirting streams of water has gotten old=20 too.

This year I'm looking for an = effective, organic=20 method to try. Has anyone had success they'd like to = share?

How bout' some chemical options, just = in=20 case.....

Thanks for your help.

Mr. Green Thumb (squished aphid=20 reference)

------=_NextPart_000_00A6_01C3E8E0.628BBFF0-- From s.rogers1@juno.com Mon Feb 2 00:32:19 2004 From: s.rogers1@juno.com (s.rogers1@juno.com) Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2004 17:32:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200402020032.i120WJsZ023588@Ag.arizona.edu> We recently moved here from New Mexico and don't know too much about the landscaping here. I was wondering about Queen palms. Do you water them at the drip line like most trees--mine has a drip line to it at the trunk and I wondered if it is getting enough water. Last summer some of the leaves turned brown. What is the best method to water these trees? Thanks From s.rogers1@juno.com Mon Feb 2 00:46:25 2004 From: s.rogers1@juno.com (s.rogers1@juno.com) Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2004 17:46:25 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200402020046.i120kPsZ024937@Ag.arizona.edu> I planted an avacado tree last October and it seems to be doing okay so far. My question is, I know the summer is really hard on new trees. What can I do for it so that it has the best chance of survival. It is next to a cinderblock wall where it gets as much shade as possible. Thanks From amyshil@bellsouth.net Sun Feb 1 16:08:47 2004 From: amyshil@bellsouth.net (Amy Nicol) Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2004 11:08:47 -0500 Subject: [Arid_gardener] kumquat tree Message-ID: <001901c3e8e0$02d5f300$e614da44@Default> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000E_01C3E8B3.C3D03CA0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I bought my kumquat tree about 6 months and it is barely hanging in = there. It produces some fruit but the leaves are turning yellow again = and it doesn't seem to be growing. ANy suggestions: I live in Florida. THanks ------=_NextPart_000_000E_01C3E8B3.C3D03CA0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I bought my kumquat tree about 6 months = and it is=20 barely hanging in there. It produces some fruit but the leaves are = turning=20 yellow again and it doesn't seem to be growing. ANy suggestions: I live = in=20 Florida.

THanks

------=_NextPart_000_000E_01C3E8B3.C3D03CA0-- From PollyFred@aol.com Mon Feb 2 04:03:42 2004 From: PollyFred@aol.com (PollyFred@aol.com) Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2004 23:03:42 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning Fruit Trees.... Message-ID: <1dc.1992c092.2d4f261e@aol.com> --part1_1dc.1992c092.2d4f261e_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The patio home I've moved to has a peach tree planted in the small, north-facing patio area....I do not know what variety this tree is, nor its age....Its main trunk is approx 4-5" diameter....Its branches are tall enough to reach half-way past the window in the upper story....Its lower branches and twigs are down so far they take too much space in this small area....I would like to prune the tree but have no experience w/fruit trees.... I would like to reduce some of the lower-growing branches/twigs and perhaps also thin out some of the inner branches.....Is this advisable.....? If so, what do I need to know to do the pruning properly.....? What time of year is best for this type of pruning.... Thanks for your help.... Polly Mason --part1_1dc.1992c092.2d4f261e_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable The patio home I've moved to has a= peach tree planted in the small, north-facing patio area....I do not know w= hat variety this tree is, nor its age....Its main trunk is approx 4-5" diame= ter....Its branches are tall enough to reach half-way past the window in the= upper story....Its lower branches and twigs are down so far they take too m= uch space in this small area....I would like to prune the tree but have no e= xperience w/fruit trees....

I would like to reduce some of the lower-growing branches/twigs and perhaps=20= also thin out some of the inner branches.....Is this advisable.....?&n= bsp; If so, what do I need to know to do the pruning properly...= ..? What time of year is best for this type of pruning....=

Thanks for your help....

Polly Mason --part1_1dc.1992c092.2d4f261e_boundary-- From sbarvian1@cableaz.com Mon Feb 2 03:49:36 2004 From: sbarvian1@cableaz.com (Scott Barvian) Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2004 20:49:36 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Is it true what they say about the Blind Cactus? References: <004e01c3e824$60b7a2a0$06cca718@SPonath> Message-ID: <003301c3e93f$94457fe0$2824a8c0@lbmelman> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0030_01C3E904.E76060E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Well, there's this: http://www.desert-tropicals.com/Plants/Cactaceae/Opuntia_rufida.html which like most prickly pears, has little hairlike spines (Glochids) = that break off at the slightest touch. Is this what you have? ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Sarah Ponath=20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2004 11:02 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Is it true what they say about the Blind = Cactus? My father sent a cutting of a cactus that is called a Blind Cactus. = He says that the plant will give off spores, just by any movement. = Apparently these spores will cause a rash if they come in contact with = your skin and can cause blindness if they get into your eyes. If this warning is correct, I am leery of planting the cutting and = having it in my garden. Please advise. ------=_NextPart_000_0030_01C3E904.E76060E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Well, there's this:

http://www.desert-tropicals.com/Plants/Cactaceae/Opuntia_rufida.html=

which like most prickly pears, has little hairlike spines = (Glochids)=20 that

break off at the slightest touch. Is this what you = have?

----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Sarah = Ponath=20
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= =20

Sent: Saturday, January 31, = 2004 11:02=20 AM

Subject: [Arid_gardener] Is it = true what=20 they say about the Blind Cactus?

My father sent a cutting of a cactus = that is=20 called a Blind Cactus. He says that the plant will give = off=20 spores, just by any movement. Apparently these spores will cause = a rash=20 if they come in contact with your skin and can cause blindness if they = get=20 into your eyes.

If this warning is correct, I am = leery of=20 planting the cutting and having it in my garden.

Please advise.

------=_NextPart_000_0030_01C3E904.E76060E0-- From sbarvian1@cableaz.com Mon Feb 2 03:41:17 2004 From: sbarvian1@cableaz.com (Scott Barvian) Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2004 20:41:17 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: citrus watering schedule References: <200402012132.i11LWesZ005770@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <001701c3e93e$6af9b620$2824a8c0@lbmelman> There is a publication (PDF file) buried somewhere on the Extension web site, that I can never seem to find when I need it. Here is a watering schedule: http://www.greenfieldcitrus.com/grow.htm This time of year, I water my two mature tangelo trees once a month. During the hot part of the summer, once a week. At each watering, I run for about 6 hours, and each tree has four 2 GPH drippers. This seems to be less water than Greenfield Citrus recommends (that's where I bought my trees) but it has worked for me. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, February 01, 2004 2:32 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I would like to locate a suggested watering schedule for citrus trees in Maricopa County.The trees are over 5 years old. The schedule should cover a full 12 month period. > Thanks From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net Mon Feb 2 08:16:04 2004 From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2004 01:16:04 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: citrus watering schedule References: <200402012132.i11LWesZ005770@Ag.arizona.edu> <001701c3e93e$6af9b620$2824a8c0@lbmelman> Message-ID: <004801c3e964$d611fb90$3e68480c@olin> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Barvian" > There is a publication (PDF file) buried somewhere on the Extension > web site, that I can never seem to find when I need it. Try http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Olin From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Feb 2 14:06:19 2004 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 02 Feb 2004 14:06:19 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] avocado tree Message-ID: You may want to get involved with a garden club that focuses on avocado and similiar plants: Arizona Rare Fruit Growers http://cals.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/sub-trpc.htm Meet at 7:00 p.m. the second Thursday of each month, Palo Verde room The University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ Contact: Dick Gross, 623-939-4570; E-mail; rkgross3@cox.net http://home.earthlink.net/~tropicalfruit/ Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: s.rogers1@juno.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2004 17:46:25 -0700 (MST) > >I planted an avacado tree last October and it seems to be doing okay so >far. My question is, I know the summer is really hard on new trees. What >can I do for it so that it has the best chance of survival. It is next to >a cinderblock wall where it gets as much shade as possible. Thanks > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ What are the 5 hot job markets for 2004? Click here to find out. http://msn.careerbuilder.com/Custom/MSN/CareerAdvice/WPI_WhereWillWeFindJobsIn2004.htm?siteid=CBMSN3006&sc_extcmp=JS_wi08_dec03_hotmail1 From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Feb 2 14:14:21 2004 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 02 Feb 2004 14:14:21 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen palm Message-ID: This publication should give you the information you request: http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf Queen palms require ample water; plant in a protected area to minimize wind damage. Water to a depth of 2-3 feet with 2 to 4 emitters on opposite sides of the trunk and in an area 24 to 36 inches from the trunk. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: s.rogers1@juno.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2004 17:32:19 -0700 (MST) > >We recently moved here from New Mexico and don't know too much about the >landscaping here. I was wondering about Queen palms. Do you water them at >the drip line like most trees--mine has a drip line to it at the trunk and >I wondered if it is getting enough water. Last summer some of the leaves >turned brown. What is the best method to water these trees? Thanks > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Scope out the new MSN Plus Internet Software � optimizes dial-up to the max! http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-us&page=byoa/plus&ST=1 From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Feb 2 14:00:34 2004 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 02 Feb 2004 14:00:34 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning Fruit Trees.... Message-ID: Here is the information with illustrations on pruning fruit trees: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs//garden/mg/fruit/irrigation.html#pruning You may want to go slowly, sincve the tree sounds like it hasn't been pruned on a regular schedule. Remove dead wood, crossing branches and some of the lower branches that are in your way. You may want to consult with an arborist before doing too much pruning. Check the phonebook yellow pages under "trees" and look for the certified arborist seal. Talk with several over the phone and get an estimate of what work would be done and costs before proceeding. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: PollyFred@aol.com >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning Fruit Trees.... >Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2004 23:03:42 EST > >The patio home I've moved to has a peach tree planted in the small, >north-facing patio area....I do not know what variety this tree is, nor its >age....Its >main trunk is approx 4-5" diameter....Its branches are tall enough to reach >half-way past the window in the upper story....Its lower branches and twigs >are >down so far they take too much space in this small area....I would like to >prune the tree but have no experience w/fruit trees.... > >I would like to reduce some of the lower-growing branches/twigs and perhaps >also thin out some of the inner branches.....Is this advisable.....? If >so, >what do I need to know to do the pruning properly.....? What time of >year >is best for this type of pruning.... > >Thanks for your help.... > >Polly Mason _________________________________________________________________ Scope out the new MSN Plus Internet Software � optimizes dial-up to the max! http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-us&page=byoa/plus&ST=1 From CarolynHills@cox.net Mon Feb 2 16:39:59 2004 From: CarolynHills@cox.net (Carolyn Hills) Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2004 08:39:59 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200402012132.i11LWesZ005770@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <00ac01c3e9ab$3322bd60$a70f6244@ph.cox.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00A9_01C3E968.24C581A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Bill: Check out this publication from UofA Cooperative Extension on = Maricopa County citrus watering. AZ1151 "Irrigating Citrus Trees" = (http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf) Hope this helps. Carolyn ----- Original Message -----=20 From: billbetgueho@netzero.net=20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Sunday, February 01, 2004 1:32 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I would like to locate a suggested watering schedule for citrus trees = in Maricopa County.The trees are over 5 years old. The schedule should = cover a full 12 month period. Thanks _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener ------=_NextPart_000_00A9_01C3E968.24C581A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Bill: Check out this publication from UofA = Cooperative=20 Extension on Maricopa County citrus watering.

AZ1151 "Irrigating Citrus = Trees"=20 (http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf)

Hope this helps.

Carolyn

----- Original Message -----

From:=20 billbetgueho@netzero.net =

To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= =20

Sent: Sunday, February 01, 2004 = 1:32=20 PM

Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Question from=20 Home-Hort WWW page

I would like to locate a suggested watering schedule = for citrus=20 trees in Maricopa County.The trees are over 5 years old. The schedule = should=20 cover a full 12 month period.
=20 = Thanks

_______________________________________________
Arid_gar= dener=20 mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu=
http://Ag.A= rizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener ------=_NextPart_000_00A9_01C3E968.24C581A0-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Feb 2 18:02:30 2004 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 02 Feb 2004 18:02:30 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] kumquat tree Message-ID: First, talk with the Cooperative Extension people near you (check the government pages in your phone book under 'county'). Yellow leaves might be a sign of too much water or poor drainage that retains water. Also check to see the tree is not buried too deeply as soil against the trunk can cause these symptoms --- when you dig near the trunk you should encounter horizontal roots within an inch of the soil surface. again, the experts in your area can give you better advice (we are in southern Arizona). Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Amy Nicol" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] kumquat tree >Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2004 11:08:47 -0500 > >I bought my kumquat tree about 6 months and it is barely hanging in there. >It produces some fruit but the leaves are turning yellow again and it >doesn't seem to be growing. ANy suggestions: I live in Florida. >THanks _________________________________________________________________ Get a FREE online virus check for your PC here, from McAfee. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 From bayberrysunshine@yahoo.com Mon Feb 2 17:03:06 2004 From: bayberrysunshine@yahoo.com (bayberrysunshine@yahoo.com) Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2004 10:03:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200402021703.i12H36sZ004373@Ag.arizona.edu> Where may I find information on Integrated pest management? Thanks! sunshine From sbarvian1@cableaz.com Mon Feb 2 16:38:03 2004 From: sbarvian1@cableaz.com (Scott Barvian) Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2004 09:38:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: citrus watering schedule References: <200402012132.i11LWesZ005770@Ag.arizona.edu> <001701c3e93e$6af9b620$2824a8c0@lbmelman> <004801c3e964$d611fb90$3e68480c@olin> Message-ID: <009201c3e9aa$ed96c8e0$2824a8c0@lbmelman> > Try http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf > > Olin Yeah, that's it. The problem is, I can never find this file and other useful ones like it (like the one on palms that was just mentioned) because I have the Extension home page bookmarked: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden and the PDF files aren't found under the "Publications" page which is where I always seem to think they should be. There are (at least) two folders full of PDF files: http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/crops and http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/garden but as far as I can tell, the documents (the ones that would be useful, that is) aren't linked to from within the Extension site. Are they? If these files were easier to find, these topics wouldn't get asked on the list so often. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Feb 2 18:09:56 2004 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 02 Feb 2004 18:09:56 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Removal of oleander hedge Message-ID: Others are more qualified and can give you good advice. My personal opinion is that you may need to get some heavy equipment like a backhoe to get those root crowns out. If so, be sure you know where all your utility and irrigation lines are located before you start to dig. Linda >From: Curt Cohee >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Removal of oleander hedge >Date: Sun, 01 Feb 2004 12:31:43 -0800 > >The back edge of my lot has a very old (20 years+) growth of oleander >across its entire 100 foot length. After cutting away the above ground >growth at about 15" above ground level, I have some 24 root crowns ranging >in diameter from 12 to 20 inches. This irrigated oleander hedge was/is in >vigorous health when it was cut several weeks ago. > >I now wish to remove the root structures but I am unsure of the best >procedure ( and cost) of such an effort. Can you advise me? > >Thanks for your help > >Sincerely, > > >Curt Cohee >73-441 Tamarisk Street >Palm Desert, CA 92260 > >760-340-2224 >clcohee@gte.net _________________________________________________________________ What are the 5 hot job markets for 2004? Click here to find out. http://msn.careerbuilder.com/Custom/MSN/CareerAdvice/WPI_WhereWillWeFindJobsIn2004.htm?siteid=CBMSN3006&sc_extcmp=JS_wi08_dec03_hotmail1 From Evljohn@aol.com Mon Feb 2 19:15:52 2004 From: Evljohn@aol.com (Evljohn@aol.com) Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2004 12:15:52 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200402021915.i12JFqsZ022900@Ag.arizona.edu> Is it ok (health wise) to have citrus trees planted over or near leach pits for a septic system? Thanks for your assistance! From BradleyL@cox.net Mon Feb 2 19:49:03 2004 From: BradleyL@cox.net (Lucy Bradley) Date: Mon, 02 Feb 2004 12:49:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Location of UA Publications on-line Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20040202124458.06787d80@cals.arizona.edu> Greetings Many of the UA bulletins relevant to gardening in the low desert are linked from the Maricopa County Website: http://cals.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm You can find this site by going to our main page: http://cals.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ Select "Publications" Select "Bulletins" Select "Maricopa County" From sbailey@mail.de.state.az.us Mon Feb 2 22:57:14 2004 From: sbailey@mail.de.state.az.us (sbailey@mail.de.state.az.us) Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2004 15:57:14 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200402022257.i12MvEsZ017271@Ag.arizona.edu> My boss bought 2 doz roses for the office. They were left in the office over the weekend. Today, I found shoots growing from the stem of several of the roses. Can you do anything with them? From GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com Mon Feb 2 23:42:45 2004 From: GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com (GardenGuy) Date: Mon, 02 Feb 2004 16:42:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200402022257.i12MvEsZ017271@Ag.arizona.edu> References: <200402022257.i12MvEsZ017271@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <401EE075.5050305@GardenersCorner.com> Oh, one other thing. here is my favorite method of rooting roses. I find it far more successful than any other method: http://www.rdrop.com/~paul/hulse.html Be careful, the website above could get you seriously addicted to roses, and you might never recover from it. ;) -- -- Chat with you later... Alan ----- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ***** LIVE Garden Chat Now Available ***** ----- Alan Zelhart GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- Bore: A person who talks when you wish him to listen. sbailey@mail.de.state.az.us wrote: >My boss bought 2 doz roses for the office. They were left in the office over the weekend. > >Today, I found shoots growing from the stem of several of the roses. Can you do anything with them? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > >. > > > From GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com Mon Feb 2 23:40:28 2004 From: GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com (GardenGuy) Date: Mon, 02 Feb 2004 16:40:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200402022257.i12MvEsZ017271@Ag.arizona.edu> References: <200402022257.i12MvEsZ017271@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <401EDFEC.9060909@GardenersCorner.com> It doesn't hurt to try. My Mom got a beautiful two dozen roses a couple of weeks ago for her birthday. When she clipped them to fit in the vase, I took the stems and put them in soil to see if they will root. New growth continues to bud out from the stems. If they can just make it through their first summer, I believe I'll have me some roses. One thing to remember about florist roses is, they are green house roses. Many times they are not disease resistant, or do not hold up well to extreme cold or our extreme heat. They may not bloom as beautifully in the garden as they did in the green house. But, the ones my Mom got were so pretty, I just had to give it a try. A stunning tangerine color, beautifully cupped and ruffled edges. -- -- Chat with you later... Alan ----- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ***** LIVE Garden Chat Now Available ***** ----- Alan Zelhart GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- Bore: A person who talks when you wish him to listen. sbailey@mail.de.state.az.us wrote: >My boss bought 2 doz roses for the office. They were left in the office over the weekend. > >Today, I found shoots growing from the stem of several of the roses. Can you do anything with them? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > >. > > > From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Feb 3 01:37:32 2004 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2004 01:37:32 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] IPM - Integrated Pest Management Message-ID: Here are places to get started concerning IPM: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs//garden/mg/entomology/ipm.html http://cals.arizona.edu/urbanipm/schoolipm/schoolipm.html http://cals.arizona.edu/urbanipm/whatisipm.html The first step is to identify the host plant and the pest that is the cause of the problem. With that information, you can begin looking at simple methods to stop the problem. The first steps often involve creating a barrier, physically removing the pest, altering the environment (wetter, drier, etc.) and using sprays of water or a soap water solution to deter the pest. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: bayberrysunshine@yahoo.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2004 10:03:06 -0700 (MST) > >Where may I find information on Integrated pest management? Thanks! >sunshine > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Find high-speed �net deals � comparison-shop your local providers here. https://broadband.msn.com From azbrandts2@cox.net Tue Feb 3 15:16:52 2004 From: azbrandts2@cox.net (azbrandts2@cox.net) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2004 08:16:52 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200402031516.i13FGqsZ001738@Ag.arizona.edu> Can you tell me if Vine Lilacs can be planted on the west side of the house. There are some sites that say full sun but I want to make sure. Thank you! From cstephens@infinet-is.com Tue Feb 3 18:22:48 2004 From: cstephens@infinet-is.com (Charles Stephens) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2004 11:22:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] IPM - Integrated Pest Management References: Message-ID: <001601c3ea82$bb5713c0$d6da13d8@default> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C3EA48.0DB1B200 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable The University of Arizona's Urban IPM home page is: http://cals.arizona.edu/urbanipm/ .There are links from this page to = those that Linda mentioned as well as a several others. Charlie Stephens Master Gardener Phoenix ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Linda Drew=20 To: bayberrysunshine@yahoo.com ; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Monday, February 02, 2004 6:37 PM Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] IPM - Integrated Pest Management Here are places to get started concerning IPM: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs//garden/mg/entomology/ipm.html http://cals.arizona.edu/urbanipm/schoolipm/schoolipm.html http://cals.arizona.edu/urbanipm/whatisipm.html The first step is to identify the host plant and the pest that is the cause of the problem. With that information, you can begin looking at simple methods to stop the problem. The first steps often involve creating a barrier, physically removing the pest, altering the environment (wetter, drier, etc.) and using sprays of water or a soap water solution to deter the pest. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: bayberrysunshine@yahoo.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2004 10:03:06 -0700 (MST) > >Where may I find information on Integrated pest management? Thanks! = >sunshine > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Find high-speed 'net deals - comparison-shop your local providers = here.=20 https://broadband.msn.com _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener ------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C3EA48.0DB1B200 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

The University of Arizona's Urban IPM home page is:

http://cals.arizona.edu/urbanipm/ .There = are links=20 from this page to those that Linda mentioned as well as a several = others.

Charlie Stephens
Master Gardener
Phoenix

----- Original Message -----

From:=20 Linda=20 Drew

To: bayberrysunshine@yahoo.com ; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu =

Sent: Monday, February 02, 2004 = 6:37=20 PM

Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] = IPM -=20 Integrated Pest Management

Here are places to get started concerning=20 IPM:

http:/= /ag.arizona.edu/pubs//garden/mg/entomology/ipm.html

&nbs= p; =20 http:/= /cals.arizona.edu/urbanipm/schoolipm/schoolipm.html

&nbs= p; =20 http://cals.ariz= ona.edu/urbanipm/whatisipm.html

The=20 first step is to identify the host plant and the pest that
is the = cause of=20 the problem. With that information, you can
begin looking at simple = methods=20 to stop the problem.

The first steps often involve creating a = barrier,=20 physically removing
the pest, altering the environment (wetter, = drier,=20 etc.) and
using sprays of water or a soap water solution to deter = the=20 pest.

Linda Drew
Master Gardener

>From: bayberrysunshine@yahoo.com=
>To:=20 <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= >
>Subject:=20 [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>Date: Mon, 2 = Feb 2004=20 10:03:06 -0700 (MST)
>
>Where may I find information on = Integrated=20 pest management? Thanks! =20 =
>sunshine
>
>_________________________________________= ______
>Arid_gardener=20 mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu=
>http://Ag.A= rizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener

____________________= _____________________________________________
Find=20 high-speed 'net deals - comparison-shop your local providers here. =
https://broadband.msn.com

_= ______________________________________________
Arid_gardener=20 mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu=
http://Ag.A= rizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C3EA48.0DB1B200-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Feb 3 23:05:31 2004 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2004 23:05:31 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lilac vine, Hardenbergia violaceae Message-ID: In our demonstration gardens in Tucson, Lilac vine is planted with a full south and west exposure and does well there. It is not against a wall (which could cause some additional stress with reflected heat). Exposed stems sunburn in summer, so be careful about pruning. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: azbrandts2@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2004 08:16:52 -0700 (MST) > >Can you tell me if Vine Lilacs can be planted on the west side of the >house. There are some sites that say full sun but I want to make sure. >Thank you! > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ High-speed users�be more efficient online with the new MSN Premium Internet Software. http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-us&page=byoa/prem&ST=1 From sallyhy@qwest.net Wed Feb 4 20:48:33 2004 From: sallyhy@qwest.net (sallyhy@qwest.net) Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 13:48:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200402042048.i14KmXsZ007156@Ag.arizona.edu> When is the best time to plant basil?Where in the garden should it be planted? Thank you, Sally From DBender815@aol.com Wed Feb 4 22:53:40 2004 From: DBender815@aol.com (DBender815@aol.com) Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 17:53:40 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Winter Lawn Message-ID: --part1_f8.362e85af.2d52d1f4_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I DID NOT overseed my lawn. I would like to put a pre-emergent weed control product on my lawn. Can you recommend a product and tell me when to install same? Also, when to thatch? Thank you, Don Bender dbender815@aol.com --part1_f8.362e85af.2d52d1f4_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I DID NOT overseed my lawn. I= would like to put a pre-emergent weed control product on my lawn. Can= you recommend a product and tell me when to install same? Also, when to tha= tch? Thank you, Don Bender dbender815@aol.com --part1_f8.362e85af.2d52d1f4_boundary-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Feb 5 00:41:40 2004 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 05 Feb 2004 00:41:40 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] basil Message-ID: In the low desert (Phoenix area), basil seed can be started indoors in January through April. Seeds can be started outdoors March into May. Transplants can be set out March into June. Basil is usually planted in mixed sun or morning sun/afternoon shade. Use average garden soil that drains well. references: The Low Desert Herb Gardening Book, Arizona Herb Association A Desert Gardener's Companion, Kim Nelson Beautiful Easy Herbs, Laurence Sombke (I enjoy reading these books, especially the second one, for inspiration!) Good luck in growing herbs. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: sallyhy@qwest.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 13:48:33 -0700 (MST) > >When is the best time to plant basil?Where in the garden should it be >planted? > >Thank you, >Sally > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get a FREE online virus check for your PC here, from McAfee. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 From gregory.terhall@sbcglobal.net Thu Feb 5 00:22:21 2004 From: gregory.terhall@sbcglobal.net (gregory.terhall@sbcglobal.net) Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 17:22:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200402050022.i150MLsZ007193@Ag.arizona.edu> Do you know if agave weevils attack mature or older plants only? From CarolynHills@cox.net Wed Feb 4 23:01:14 2004 From: CarolynHills@cox.net (Carolyn Hills) Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 15:01:14 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] When to Plant Basil References: <200402042048.i14KmXsZ007156@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <00ff01c3eb72$ca200100$a70f6244@ph.cox.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00FC_01C3EB2F.BBC13EA0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Sally: Per "The Low Desert Herb Gardening Handbook" (published by the Arizona = Herb Association), you can plant basil *indoors* as early as January, = but don't plant it outside until April. Basil loves heat and sun, and is = one of the few herbs that thrives in full Arizona sun all summer (basil = is native to India and the Middle East). Basil requires well-drained, = moist, medium-rich soil. You can plant basil in a large pot or in your = landscape or garden, but make sure that you add mulch or compost to = enrich the soil. It is also a good idea to place several inches of = gravel or river rocks at the bottom of the hole or pot to ensure good = drainage. Many basil species will grow through the winter in Maricopa = County, as long as you are careful to protect the plants from frost. If you would like to learn more about growing herbs in Arizona, consider = joining The Arizona Herb Association (www.azherb.org). Hope this helps. = --carolyn ----- Original Message -----=20 From: sallyhy@qwest.net=20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2004 12:48 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When is the best time to plant basil?Where in the garden should it be = planted? Thank you, Sally _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener ------=_NextPart_000_00FC_01C3EB2F.BBC13EA0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Sally:

Per "The Low Desert Herb Gardening Handbook" = (published by the=20 Arizona Herb Association), you can plant basil *indoors* as early as = January,=20 but don't plant it outside until April. Basil loves heat and sun, and is = one of=20 the few herbs that thrives in full Arizona sun all summer (basil is = native to=20 India and the Middle East). Basil requires well-drained, moist, = medium-rich=20 soil. You can plant basil in a large pot or in your landscape or garden, = but=20 make sure that you add mulch or compost to enrich the soil. It is also a = good=20 idea to place several inches of gravel or river rocks at the = bottom of=20 the hole or pot to ensure good drainage. Many basil species will = grow=20 through the winter in Maricopa County, as long as you are careful to = protect the=20 plants from frost.

If you would like to learn more about growing herbs = in=20 Arizona, consider joining The Arizona Herb Association (www.azherb.org). Hope this = helps. =20 --carolyn

----- Original Message -----

From:=20 sallyhy@qwest.net

To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= =20

Sent: Wednesday, February 04, = 2004 12:48=20 PM

Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Question from=20 Home-Hort WWW page

When is the best time to plant basil?Where in the = garden should=20 it be planted?

Thank=20 = you,
Sally

_______________________________________________
A= rid_gardener=20 mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu=
http://Ag.A= rizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
------=_NextPart_000_00FC_01C3EB2F.BBC13EA0-- From mhills@seedsolutions.com Thu Feb 5 01:37:08 2004 From: mhills@seedsolutions.com (Mike Hills) Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 18:37:08 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Winter Lawn & Dethatch Lawn In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <00c501c3eb88$92c353e0$0500a8c0@RSIOAQ3YCFIW63> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00C6_01C3EB4D.E6647BE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello Don Assuming from your note that you have a bermudagrass lawn. Spring applications of pre-emergent herbicides should be applied in February or March at the latest to be the most effective. Applications after that will miss some early sprouting crabgrass, spurge, etc. and you will then need post-emergent herbicides for control of the escapees. We cannot recommend specific product brands, but there are many suitable products available from your local garden centers and nurseries. Be sure to check the label that it clearly says "Pre-Emergent", rather than "Post-Emergent" - sometimes the products are not labeled clearly until you read the fine print. Also note, the combination "weed & feed" type products that include fertilize with the herbicide - these are nice, but usually more expensive than you necessarily need. Purchasing a good lawn herbicide and lawn fertilizer separately and applying separately may get better results, for less cost. On the other hand, the "weed & feed" type products are far easier to handle and apply if you do not want to work with liquid herbicides and sprayers. As the next step in your Spring lawncare process, applications of a high nitrogen content (check the label) fertilizer should be put down in March and April, or when the night air temperatures are 50 degrees consistently, for the best results. Dethatching should NOT be done until mid-summer when the bermudagrass is actively growing and can recover quickly from the process. De-thatching done in spring or even in fall can be very damaging to the longterm life of a bermuda stand, and may result in more bare areas with more weed problems. Instead, you should lower your mowing blades to the lowest cut setting for the first several mowings in Spring. This will remove any brown stems that are upright and clear the way for sunlight to reach the lower stolons and stems to wake them up and stimulate new growth. If you had overseeded with ryegrass, same advice for Spring mowing - this allows the bermuda to wake up, whereas the shade from old bermuda stalks and ryegrass overseed will keep the dormant bermuda sleeping far longer. The lower mower cut height also stimulates better spread and fill-in of the new bermuda growth as the temperatures warm - later you can increase the mowing height gradualy if you prefer a taller lawn. One other note - many people assume you need to de-thatch every year. With many bermuda varieties and lawn growing conditions, this is NOT the case. You only need to de-thatch aggressively when your lawn has built up a layer of dead and dried stems and stolons at the surface that prevents water absorption into the soil. Usually once every 2 years is sufficient, or at the most once a year in mid-summer. The only reason your turf would need dethatching more often is if you are watering and fertilising too much, with resultant excessive growth. More detailed articles on growing turfgrass in Arizona can be accessed at http://ag.arizona.edu/turf - click on the Turf Tips section and then review the large selection of articles available for all types of Arizona turf, for all times of the year - these are based on research by the University of Arizona in Tucson at their Karsten Turf Research Center, and this information is specifically designed to be useful by the Arizona homeowner or turf manager. Mike Hills Master Gardener Volunteer, Maricopa County -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of DBender815@aol.com Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2004 3:54 PM To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Winter Lawn I DID NOT overseed my lawn. I would like to put a pre-emergent weed control product on my lawn. Can you recommend a product and tell me when to install same? Also, when to thatch? Thank you, Don Bender dbender815@aol.com ------=_NextPart_000_00C6_01C3EB4D.E6647BE0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hello=20 Don

Assuming from your note that you have a = bermudagrass=20 lawn. Spring applications of pre-emergent herbicides = should be=20 applied in February or March at the latest to be the most=20 effective. Applications after that will miss some = early=20 sprouting crabgrass, spurge, etc. and you will then need post-emergent=20 herbicides for control of the escapees.

We=20 cannot recommend specific product brands, but there are many = suitable=20 products available from your local garden centers and=20 nurseries. Be sure to check the label that it clearly = says=20 "Pre-Emergent", rather than "Post-Emergent" - sometimes the products are = not=20 labeled clearly until you read the fine print. Also = note, the=20 combination "weed & feed" type products that include fertilize with = the=20 herbicide - these are nice, but usually more expensive than you = necessarily=20 need. Purchasing a good lawn herbicide and lawn = fertilizer=20 separately and applying separately may get better results, for less=20 cost. On the other hand, the "weed & feed" type = products=20 are far easier to handle and apply if you do not want to work with = liquid=20 herbicides and sprayers. As the next step in your = Spring=20 lawncare process, applications of a high nitrogen content = (check the=20 label) fertilizer should be put down in March and April, or when the = night air=20 temperatures are 50 degrees consistently, for the best=20 results.

Dethatching should NOT be done until = mid-summer when=20 the bermudagrass is actively growing and can recover quickly from the=20 process. De-thatching done in spring or even in fall = can be=20 very damaging to the longterm life of a bermuda stand, and may result in = more=20 bare areas with more weed problems. Instead, you = should lower=20 your mowing blades to the lowest cut setting for the first several = mowings in=20 Spring. This will remove any brown stems that are upright = and clear=20 the way for sunlight to reach the lower stolons and stems to wake them = up and=20 stimulate new growth. If you had overseeded with = ryegrass, same advice for Spring mowing - this allows the bermuda to = wake up,=20 whereas the shade from old bermuda stalks and ryegrass overseed will = keep the=20 dormant bermuda sleeping far longer. The lower mower cut = height also=20 stimulates better spread and fill-in of the new bermuda growth as the=20 temperatures warm - later you can increase the mowing height gradualy if = you=20 prefer a taller lawn.

One=20 other note - many people assume you need to de-thatch every = year. =20 With many bermuda varieties and lawn growing conditions, this = is NOT the=20 case. You only need to de-thatch aggressively when your lawn = has=20 built up a layer of dead and dried stems and stolons at the surface that = prevents water absorption into the soil. Usually once = every 2=20 years is sufficient, or at the most once a year in = mid-summer. The=20 only reason your turf would need dethatching more often is if you are = watering=20 and fertilising too much, with resultant excessive = growth.

More=20 detailed articles on growing turfgrass in Arizona can be accessed at http://ag.arizona.edu/turf &= nbsp; =20 - click on the Turf Tips section and then review the large = selection of=20 articles available for all types of Arizona turf, for all times of the = year -=20 these are based on research by the University of Arizona in Tucson at = their=20 Karsten Turf Research Center, and this information is specifically = designed to=20 be useful by the Arizona homeowner or turf manager.

Mike=20 Hills

Master=20 Gardener Volunteer, Maricopa County

-----Original Message-----
From:=20 arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu=20 [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of=20 DBender815@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2004 = 3:54=20 PM
To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject:=20 [Arid_gardener] Winter Lawn

I DID NOT overseed my lawn. I would like to put a=20 pre-emergent weed control product on my lawn. Can you recommend = a=20 product and tell me when to install same? Also, when to thatch? = Thank=20 you, Don Bender dbender815@aol.com=20

------=_NextPart_000_00C6_01C3EB4D.E6647BE0-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Feb 5 03:16:35 2004 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 05 Feb 2004 03:16:35 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Agave weevil Message-ID: According to Carl Olson, UA Entomolgy Dept.: Wild agaves become susceptible when they start producing a flower stalk, the time when the plant will soon die anyway. In cultivation, the largest species are all affected, but the common century plant, Agave americana, is the one most often seen in trouble. (from the book Insects of the Southwest). Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: gregory.terhall@sbcglobal.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2004 17:22:21 -0700 (MST) > >Do you know if agave weevils attack mature or older plants only? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ What are the 5 hot job markets for 2004? Click here to find out. http://msn.careerbuilder.com/Custom/MSN/CareerAdvice/WPI_WhereWillWeFindJobsIn2004.htm?siteid=CBMSN3006&sc_extcmp=JS_wi08_dec03_hotmail1 From nickimann@cox.net Thu Feb 5 07:39:57 2004 From: nickimann@cox.net (nickimann@cox.net) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 00:39:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200402050739.i157dvsZ007668@Ag.arizona.edu> I live in Chandler and am planning a small vegetable garden for my family. I have limited space, poor soil and would like to create something beautiful that would provide some organic veggies for my family. Also, my children, ages 4 and 2, would like to be involved. My question is about the soil. What type of soil should I make or purchase to grow organic veggies in raised beds? How deep should the raised beds be? I was thinking of using cement blocks, sized 6x8x16, to build the beds. Thank you in advance for your help! Nicki Mann & family From victasha@yahoo.com Thu Feb 5 18:38:21 2004 From: victasha@yahoo.com (victasha@yahoo.com) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 11:38:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200402051838.i15IcLsZ016255@Ag.arizona.edu> We're buying a house with several citrus trees - oranges, grapefruit, and lemons. Coming from the Pacific Northwest, I have no idea how to take care of them, when to harvest the fruit, etc. Can you suggest a source or sources of information so I don't kill off the trees??? Thanks! From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Feb 6 00:00:10 2004 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2004 00:00:10 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus care Message-ID: You may want to start by reading various articles written by John Begeman, Pima County Urban Horticulture Agent: http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening/news/articles/18.html The following article has good general information to get you started: http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening/news/articles/18.html University of Arizona has an excellent bulletin which has info on citrus care, and is available for $1.00 from Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040. On line you will find useful info on watering and citrus diseases at: www.ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151 http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/diseases/az1154/ For information for newcomers, check: http://cals.arizona.edu/gardening Welcome! and enjoy your new gardening experiences. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: victasha@yahoo.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 11:38:21 -0700 (MST) > >We're buying a house with several citrus trees - oranges, grapefruit, and >lemons. Coming from the Pacific Northwest, I have no idea how to take care >of them, when to harvest the fruit, etc. Can you suggest a source or >sources of information so I don't kill off the trees??? Thanks! > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Let the new MSN Premium Internet Software make the most of your high-speed experience. http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-us&page=byoa/prem&ST=1 From flatspin@intelligencia.com Fri Feb 6 13:22:20 2004 From: flatspin@intelligencia.com (Shawn) Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2004 06:22:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Arid_gardener digest, Vol 1 #706 - 11 msgs In-Reply-To: <200402060149.i161nVsZ010914@Ag.arizona.edu> References: <200402060149.i161nVsZ010914@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <6.0.1.1.0.20040206060643.023dd468@127.0.0.1> I have a house in East Mesa with one of the "sample sized" (20'x60') yards so prevalent here. I opted to use the side of the house (9'x60') for my garden so had the same limited space issues and the same very poor soil conditions, I also had gravel and some construction debris. Rather than excavate, I used 2x12 boards and filled them with straight composted mulch and watered with a soaker hose.

Things grew pretty well at first but in six months, it was like someone really turned the grow switch on. We ended up with so much squash, zucchini, basil, peppers and tomatoes I was giving it away to anyone in the neighborhood that would take it. I was filling an 8 quart bowl with chili peppers about every other month.

One word of advice, things that grow on a vine like squash, zucchini, cantaloupe, pumpkins and watermelon will quickly take over an entire small garden if not watched. If you have kids, be sure to plant sunflowers, mine got over 9' tall. Kids love to sit in the shade of a sunflower.

I never see it mentioned but I bought Dave The Garden Guys book about growing in the desert and it really helped

Message: 9
Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 00:39:57 -0700 (MST)
To: <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>
From: nickimann@cox.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page

I live in Chandler and am planning a small vegetable garden for my family. I have limited space, poor soil and would like to create something beautiful that would provide some organic veggies for my family. Also, my children, ages 4 and 2, would like to be involved. My question is about the soil. What type of soil should I make or purchase to grow organic veggies in raised beds? How deep should the raised beds be? I was thinking of using cement blocks, sized 6x8x16, to build the beds. Thank you in advance for your help! Nicki Mann & family

From GACarmack@aol.com Fri Feb 6 17:56:51 2004 From: GACarmack@aol.com (GACarmack@aol.com) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 12:56:51 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: <3d.3a57feb4.2d552f63@aol.com> -------------------------------1076090211 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I plant the vining things like zucchini, cantalope, etc. near the edge of my planter boxes so they can grow over the yard. They can also be trellised so they don't take over a planter. Gail -------------------------------1076090211 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I plant the vining things like zucchini, cantalope, etc. near the edge=20= of my planter boxes so they can grow over the yard. They can also be t= rellised so they don't take over a planter. Gail

-------------------------------1076090211-- From nanagusgus@cox.net Fri Feb 6 20:20:30 2004 From: nanagusgus@cox.net (nanagusgus@cox.net) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 13:20:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200402062020.i16KKUsZ014586@Ag.arizona.edu> I live in Surprise(west of Phoenix). Many things froze . I know to wait to prune some things but not those below. I would like to know WHEN to cut off the dead parts not how. Paraguay Nightshade shrub , Vittadinia ,Thevetia-peruvian yellow & white appx. 3 years old.,crepe myrtle Petite Plum, 1 year old. Thanks All!! ( :) From azhombre_2000@yahoo.com Fri Feb 6 21:14:42 2004 From: azhombre_2000@yahoo.com (azhombre_2000@yahoo.com) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 14:14:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200402062114.i16LEgsZ026376@Ag.arizona.edu> My waxleaf privit is loosing its leaves. Those remaining are loosing their green color and some have brown edges. What should I do. I gave it cheleate iron in August by digging 6-7 inch deep holes around the dripline and filling with the iron then watering in. Help! I have two of these plants and they are an important part of my landscaping. From gaguilar@brwncald.com Fri Feb 6 23:18:23 2004 From: gaguilar@brwncald.com (gaguilar@brwncald.com) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 16:18:23 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200402062318.i16NINsZ024443@Ag.arizona.edu> What brand and fertilizer so you recomend? Do you recomend anything else for a tree that has not been well taken care of? Where/how are citris trees prooned(sp)? Thank you in advance. From mhartwig1@cox.net Sat Feb 7 17:46:50 2004 From: mhartwig1@cox.net (mhartwig1@cox.net) Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2004 10:46:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200402071746.i17HkosZ022114@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a grouping of red, and yellow bouganvilleas against my wall, about 7 feet tall, the freeze in late December '03 pretty much killed all the leaves. Will they come back? or is there anything i should do with the plants? They are looking pretty sorry right now From rahr at Ag.arizona.edu Thu Feb 12 14:19:25 2004 From: rahr at Ag.arizona.edu (Matthew J. Rahr) Date: Thu Feb 12 14:19:28 2004 Subject: [Arid_gardener] New Mailman Update Message-ID: This is an update. Mailman 2.1 is installed. Matt CALS Networking Lab