From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net Fri Jan 2 00:41:11 2004 From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2004 17:41:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [Arid_gardener]Last Frost Dates References: <003001c3cff3$d211f2a0$ad04e043@ibmbna6040> Message-ID: <006901c3d0c9$52df5dc0$c66b480c@olin> At our NW Phoenix "colder valley location" we had lows of 30 deg and 28 deg the past week. According to information at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/weather/frost.htm#first the average last frost date in the valley may range from February 7 through March depending on location The last frost date on record for downtown Phoenix was March 31 in 1987. Confirming what Rod said, the site shows the temperature in the suburbs is usually quite a bit lower. I find that once the lows drop below 45 deg our low is almost always 5 deg below downtown Phoenix. Because of our low humidity, the temperature will often drop below freezing and cause plant damage with no sign of the ice particle accumulation on plants or rooftops that are usually associated with freezing morning temperatures. ----- Original Message -----From: "Rod" rodmcq6@highstream.net >The Ficus nitida is frost tender and can be damaged at 25F and especially since it was just planted. There is nothing you can do now except to make sure that it is watered properly and to cover the crown and wrap the trunk if freezing temperatures are forecast. Remember that if you live in the suburbs the temperatures can be as much as 10 degrees lower than those forcast for Sky Harbor Airport. The Hibiscus can be damaged at 28F. An established Hibiscus will usually survive even if frozen to the ground but the newly planted Hibiscus may not make it if severely damaged. From Virginianns@aol.com Fri Jan 2 01:43:59 2004 From: Virginianns@aol.com (Virginianns@aol.com) Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2004 20:43:59 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Help Message-ID: My Yucca aloifolia (Spanish bannet) is six years old. Has been doing very well until about three months ago (during our very hot spell here in Arizona). Since then it appears as though all of its leaves are dying. I am very concerned. Some tell me to water it more. Others tell me not to water it at all. Can you tell me what the problem is and how do I help this poor tree? Thank you. Virginia From mongotu@cox.net Thu Jan 1 20:00:47 2004 From: mongotu@cox.net (Lois Greer) Date: Thu, 01 Jan 2004 20:00:47 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Frost Dates Message-ID: <20040102025859.UOQJ27510.fed1mtao02.cox.net@pavilion> I too have frostbit lantana and bougainvillae. Living in Mesa, would a good rule of thumb be: Cover plants if wx forecast is 42 or below? I had already realized at least 5 degrees difference from The Weather Channel forecase for Phoenix and actual Mesa temp, but this one snuck up on me big time! Can I leave oranges and grapefruit on a tree thru this cold wx??? Thanks, Lois From ericafrishkorn@hotmail.com Sat Jan 3 03:36:07 2004 From: ericafrishkorn@hotmail.com (ericafrishkorn@hotmail.com) Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2004 20:36:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401030336.i033a7F1017703@Ag.arizona.edu> I am concerned that ficus trees that I recently planted may have been severely damaged or possibly killed during the extremely cold frost we had last week. Temperatures at my home in Gilbert dropped as low as 25 degrees and were below freezing for at least 5-6 hours. Is it possible to tell at this time if they have died? Is there a certified arborist that you would recommend that might be of assistance? Thanks. From mhills@seedsolutions.com Fri Jan 2 20:15:18 2004 From: mhills@seedsolutions.com (Mike Hills) Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2004 13:15:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] hollyhocks and native mesquite In-Reply-To: <3FF0B43C.000003.15961@default.ph.cox.net> Message-ID: <002001c3d16d$26138600$0500a8c0@RSIOAQ3YCFIW63> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01C3D132.79B4AE00 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_001_0022_01C3D132.79B4AE00" ------=_NextPart_001_0022_01C3D132.79B4AE00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Gus A couple of suggestions and answers: Hollyhocks - these plants do usually take more than a year to start blooming in the Low Desert - and the bloom date the second year will depend on when the seeds were planted the first year. Usually the plants that bloom the best are about 15-18 months old. The plants also need plenty of sunlight for best bloom - perhaps your plants are shaded by a tree or on the north or east side of a wall or house where they do not get enough sunlight? Hollyhocks generally do not go fully dormant, but they can show some freeze damage when we have a hard frost as this year. Keep watering them, as a water-stressed hollyhock will freeze worse if we have more hard freezes this winter. With the return of warm temperatures this spring you should see the bloom stalks appear and have towering blooms all summer. Check out the many hollyhocks growing in the Arizona Herb Association demonstration garden at the Maricopa County Extension office - 4341 east Broadway Road, Phoenix - they look the same as yours. (members of the Arizona Herb Association will be working in the garden this Saturday morning Jan. 3rd if you are in the area) We have had hollyhocks blooming in this demonstration garden for many years. The plants are techincally perennials, and if you cut the first bloom stalk to the base when it is done, you can get additional shorter bloom stalks the same year, and the crown will continue to grow and bloom for several more years. Mesquite - most mesquites are "semi-deciduous" or "semi-evergreen", meaning they drop some of their leaves each winter. In a harder, colder winter such as this year, they will drop more leaves than you have seen for the past 2-3 warm winters. If you will check the twigs and branches they should be still pliable and green, just waiting for warm temperatures to leaf out again. Native American farmers in the southwest always considered the mesquite the true signpost of spring - once all frost danger was truly past, the mesquites leafed out. Good Luck with your gardening, Mike Hills Master Gardener, Maricopa County ---------------------------------------------------------------------- -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of gusnaz@cox.net Sent: Monday, December 29, 2003 4:10 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] hollyhocks and native mesquite Hello, I have a couple of questions, I planted 3 areas of my yard with hollyhocks from seed. The first year I had plenty of healthy green leaves and no stocks. This is the end of the second year and still no stocks, with plenty of green leaves. Do I wait 3 years until I get flowers. They are all on a drip system and I am wondering if I should stop the water on them so that they can be dormant. The hard frost we have had has burnt most of the leaves. Also I planted what I was told was a native mesquite, It was in a 24 inch box, and it is in its 2nd year. Last winter at this time, it lost some leaves but this year the tree is bare. I am only watering it once a month now that it is winter. Is it deciduous? Thanks for your help. Gus Nelson ____________________________________________________ IncrediMail - Email has finally evolved - Click Here ------=_NextPart_001_0022_01C3D132.79B4AE00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Gus
 
A couple of = suggestions and=20 answers:
 
Hollyhocks - these = plants do=20 usually take more than a year to start blooming in the Low Desert - and = the=20 bloom date the second year will depend on when the seeds were planted = the first=20 year.   Usually the plants that bloom the best are about 15-18 = months=20 old.    The plants also need plenty of sunlight for best = bloom -=20 perhaps your plants are shaded by a tree or on the north or east side of = a wall=20 or house where they do not get enough sunlight?    =20 Hollyhocks generally do not go fully dormant, but they can show some = freeze=20 damage when we have a hard frost as this year.    Keep = watering=20 them, as a water-stressed hollyhock will freeze worse if we have more = hard=20 freezes this winter.    With the return of warm = temperatures this=20 spring you should see the bloom stalks appear and have towering blooms = all=20 summer.     Check out the many hollyhocks growing in = the=20 Arizona Herb Association demonstration garden at the Maricopa County = Extension=20 office - 4341 east Broadway Road, Phoenix - they look the same as=20 yours.   (members of the Arizona Herb Association will be = working in=20 the garden this Saturday morning Jan. 3rd if you are in the area)   = We have=20 had hollyhocks blooming in this demonstration garden for many=20 years.    The plants are techincally perennials, and if = you cut=20 the first bloom stalk to the base when it is done, you can get = additional=20 shorter bloom stalks the same year, and the crown will continue to grow = and=20 bloom for several more years.
 
Mesquite - most = mesquites are=20 "semi-deciduous" or "semi-evergreen", meaning they drop some of their = leaves=20 each winter.   In a harder, colder winter such as this = year, they=20 will drop more leaves than you have seen for the past 2-3 warm=20 winters.    If you will check the twigs and branches they = should=20 be still pliable and green, just waiting for warm temperatures to leaf = out=20 again.    Native American farmers in the southwest always = considered the mesquite the true signpost of spring - once all frost = danger was=20 truly past, the mesquites leafed out.
 
Good Luck with your = gardening,
Mike Hills
Master Gardener, Maricopa=20 County
 
----------------------------------------------------------------= ------
-----Original Message-----
From:=20 arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu=20 [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of=20 gusnaz@cox.net
Sent: Monday, December 29, 2003 4:10=20 PM
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject:=20 [Arid_gardener] hollyhocks and native mesquite

Hello,
    I have a couple of questions, I planted = 3 areas=20 of my yard with hollyhocks from seed. The first year I had = plenty of=20 healthy green leaves and no stocks. This is the end of the = second=20 year and still no stocks, with plenty of green leaves. Do I wait = 3 years=20 until I get flowers. They are all on a drip system and I am = wondering if=20 I should stop the water on them so that they can be dormant. The = hard=20 frost we have had has burnt most of the leaves.  Also I = planted=20 what I was told was a native mesquite, It was in a 24 inch box, = and it=20 is in its 2nd year. Last winter at this time, it lost some = leaves but=20 this year the tree is bare. I am only watering it once a month = now that=20 it is winter. Is it deciduous? Thanks for your help. Gus Nelson=20
____________________________________________________
 =20 IncrediMail - Email has finally evolved - Click=20 = Here
------=_NextPart_001_0022_01C3D132.79B4AE00-- ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01C3D132.79B4AE00 Content-Type: image/gif; name="IMSTP.gif" Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 Content-ID: <142220320@02012004-3057> R0lGODlhFAAPALMIAP9gAM9gAM8vAM9gL/+QL5AvAGAvAP9gL////wAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAACH/C05FVFNDQVBFMi4wAwEAAAAh+QQJFAAIACwAAAAAFAAPAAAEVRDJSaudJuudrxlEKI6B URlCUYyjKpgYAKSgOBSCDEuGDKgrAtC3Q/R+hkPJEDgYCjpKr5A8WK9OaPFZwHoPqm3366VKyeRt E30tVVRscMHDqV/u+AgAIfkEBWQACAAsAAAAABQADwAABBIQyUmrvTjrzbv/YCiOZGmeaAQAIfkE CRQACAAsAgABABAADQAABEoQIUOrpXIOwrsPxiQUheeRAgUA49YNhbCqK1kS9grQhXGAhsDBUJgZ AL2Dcqkk7ogFpvRAokSn0p4PO6UIuUsQggSmFjKXdAgRAQAh+QQFCgAIACwAAAAAFAAPAAAEEhDJ Sau9OOvNu/9gKI5kaZ5oBAAh+QQJFAAIACwCAAEAEAANAAAEShAhQ6ulcg7Cuw/GJBSF55ECBQDj 1g2FsKorWRL2CtCFcYCGwMFQmBkAvYNyqSTuiAWm9ECiRKfSng87pQi5SxCCBKYWMpd0CBEBACH5 BAVkAAgALAAAAAAUAA8AAAQSEMlJq7046827/2AojmRpnmgEADs= ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01C3D132.79B4AE00-- From mhills@seedsolutions.com Fri Jan 2 19:53:28 2004 From: mhills@seedsolutions.com (Mike Hills) Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2004 12:53:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lawns - herbicides In-Reply-To: <200312311421.hBVELmF1004412@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000601c3d16a$182321c0$0500a8c0@RSIOAQ3YCFIW63> It is best to apply pre-emergent weed killers to existing turf in late February or early March - this is the best time period to catch the spring germinating weeds such as spurge or crabgrass, just before warmer spring temperatures start them germinating. Fall pre-emergent herbicide can be applied in August or September for non-overseeded lawns or 2 weeks after ryegrass planting for those who overseed - this will help to control many of the the fall lawn weeds such as clovers. One other important Spring note, for the best recovery of your base bermudagrass: Pick a date in the first half of May and mow the grass down to about 1/2 inch (remove the clippings this time to your compost pile), add some high Nitrogen lawn fertilizer and water well. This is a good time to stimulate the bermuda to start growing again, while many of the dormant stolons and rhizomes (stems above and below ground) are still alive and ready to grow (check out your neighbors who did not plant ryegrass - their bermuda actually wakes up in April). Mowing the ryegrass down as low as you can, allows sunlight to reach the dormant bermuda and awaken it from its winter sleep. Many people wait until the ryegrass starts to go away on its own in late June or even July, but this is far too late - usually by that time the bermuda has starved to death due to shading from the ryegrass, and you get a poor stand of bermuda late in the summer, that has a hard time recovering. Forcing the ryegrass out in May and waking the bermuda up will give you the best results, and is more similar to what the more successful professional turf managers practice each year. Mike Hills Master Gardener, Maricopa County -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of davepolen@msn.com Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2003 7:22 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When should I apply pre-emergent crabgrass killer to my lawn? Currently, my lawn is overseeded with rye grass, and the summer turf is a bermuda variety known as BOB sod. Thanks. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From trifive@aol.com Fri Jan 2 17:47:45 2004 From: trifive@aol.com (trifive@aol.com) Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2004 10:47:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401021747.i02HljF1026366@Ag.arizona.edu> I have several 40-50 year old alepo pine trees in my lawn. One of them is brown and loosing needles on the entire south side. Small patches of green remain on each branch. My neighbors have the same thing. Could it be a worm/beetle or is it some sort of blight? What should I do? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Jan 2 16:53:38 2004 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 02 Jan 2004 16:53:38 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Yucca aloifolia Message-ID: According to Mary & Gary Irish, "Agaves, Yuccas and Related Plants": Yucca aloifolia... tolerates dry sandy soils or even soils that are moist for some parts of the year. It survives on natural rainfall in the southeastern United States and in Europe, but should be given supplemental water when planted in the driest parts of deserts in the Southwest. Watering is usually focused in the summer dry periods. - Based on that information, the summer drought may have damaged the plants but watering now is probably not helpful; if we do not get winter rains, one watering in this month might be helpful. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Virginianns@aol.com >To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Help >Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2004 20:43:59 EST > >My Yucca aloifolia (Spanish bannet) is six years old. Has been doing very >well until about three months ago (during our very hot spell here in >Arizona). >Since then it appears as though all of its leaves are dying. I am very >concerned. Some tell me to water it more. Others tell me not to water it >at all. > Can you tell me what the problem is and how do I help this poor tree? >Thank >you. Virginia >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Worried about inbox overload? Get MSN Extra Storage now! http://join.msn.com/?PAGE=features/es From kato.haws@asu.edu Fri Jan 2 16:24:27 2004 From: kato.haws@asu.edu (kato.haws@asu.edu) Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2004 09:24:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401021624.i02GORF1017541@Ag.arizona.edu> I really need to find out the answer to a couple questions about pecan trees. BACKGROUND: We have two pecan trees in our front yard. One is a really great pecan, more round than long. Fairly good bearer and a great keeper. The other is a long pecan, not round. It bears pretty well, but the nuts are misshapen and start to sprout almost before they hit the ground. QUESTION: How can I make the tree with the longish pecans more satisfactory -- a) replace it with one like the other one, or b) is a fertilization likely to improve the quality of the fruit, including its storability? Thanks, From flatspin@intelligencia.com Fri Jan 2 03:45:47 2004 From: flatspin@intelligencia.com (Shawn) Date: Thu, 01 Jan 2004 21:45:47 -0600 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Landscaping help in Mesa Message-ID: <5.2.1.1.0.20040101210115.00a89cb8@127.0.0.1> Happy New Year to all,

I'm moving back into my house in East Mesa in about ninty days and want to change the landscape both out front and in the back.  The house was built by Fulton, two car garage on left, entry in middle, windows on right (must be a million like it in the valley).  There is about 9' on each side of the house.

The back is easy, I want sod.  I'd never understood the appeal of grass until I spent a year in Pittsburgh.  I plan to remove all the half a**ed irrigation the prior owners installed and do the sod and irrigation correctly.  I'll keep all the roses and the lemon tree and maybe add lantana on the borders.  Before you cringe, it's only a 20'x60' area I want to sod, the 9'x60' areas on both sides will return to garden with desert appropriate irrigation I had prior to my transfer.  My garden areas (all above ground planter boxes) will also serve as a buffer between grass in back and desert out front.

It's the front where I really need help, the area is about 60'x30' including the 2 Car driveway..  I currently have a lava rock and the typical gravel so popular here.  I have three ocotillos and an assortment of very generic builder supplied desert/non-desert plants, the rock seems to be THE predominant heat attracting feature I notice.  I picture the house, see that rock and always picture a very hot summer day.

I want to add two large trees, acacias, mesquite or other desert trees (no thorns preferred) for the shade the will provide to the front of the south facing house, get rid of all that rock creating a more natural desert surface like I've seen in the open desert and DBG and finally, wild things up a bit with salt bush, milkweed (butterflies), etc.  Somehow the open desert doesn't seem as warm as all that unnatural rock.

In a nutshell, get rid of the rocks restoring a natural desert surface, add appropriate desert trees and plants and do any required irrigation.

Any advice/assistance appreciated?  By the way, any suggestions for a less utilized plant than lantana is also appreciated, it's pretty, but already everywhere.  My wife isn't a big fan of bees, they don't bother me but, I assume lantana in bloom gets its fair share.

Shawn
noli fovere canem ardentum

(Plain and simple. No HTML, large type, bold print, underlined text, flashy multiple colors, exotic fonts or =A2=DB=865|=CA numeric or symbol= substitutions. No bells, whistles, flashing lights or :). No self= glorification, new-age bonding, hyphenated buzz words, politics, political= correctness or religion. Not even a spell cheque! Simply a name and motto,= just a plain, two-line signature) From FarmerGreg@UrbanFarm.org Sat Jan 3 16:42:17 2004 From: FarmerGreg@UrbanFarm.org (Greg) Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 09:42:17 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200401030336.i033a7F1017703@Ag.arizona.edu> References: <200401030336.i033a7F1017703@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Check to see if the branches snap when you break them. If they bend and are soft and greenish inside it hasn't died. If they crack/snap then I would say they are done. If you end up replacing them, consider replacing them with fruit trees. Many citrus, apples, apricots, peaches, plums and other fruits do really well here and are not subject to being frozen. Then once a year they give you something really great to eat. Farmer Greg >I am concerned that ficus trees that I recently planted may have >been severely damaged or possibly killed during the extremely cold >frost we had last week. Temperatures at my home in Gilbert dropped >as low as 25 degrees and were below freezing for at least 5-6 hours. >Is it possible to tell at this time if they have died? Is there a >certified arborist that you would recommend that might be of >assistance? Thanks. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener -- ***ATTENTION*** Please note my new email address. FarmerGreg@UrbanFarm.org The Urban Farm Growing good food Having fun gardening Connecting with nature Greg Peterson http://www.urbanfarm.org 602/565-7045 From Joanpaz5729@aol.com Sat Jan 3 19:52:19 2004 From: Joanpaz5729@aol.com (Joanpaz5729@aol.com) Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 14:52:19 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Freeze Message-ID: <1e1.16c48320.2d287773@aol.com> -------------------------------1073159539 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have a Lemon and Lime tree, both are two years plus a couple months,,, they were doing great until last weeks freeze,, they are pretty sorry looking now,,, all the leaves are drooping ,some on the lime are yellow,,, they had both been reacently flood watered ,, several days before the freeze,,, can you tell me is there any hope for them now,,, and what do I need to do to help them,,,, Thank You for your advise,,, Joan Perry -------------------------------1073159539 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable   I=20= have a Lemon and Lime tree, both are two years plus a couple months,,, they=20= were doing great until last weeks freeze,, they are pretty sorry looking now= ,,, all the leaves are drooping ,some on the lime are yellow,,, they had bot= h been reacently flood watered ,, several days before the freeze,,, can you=20= tell me is there any hope for them now,,, and what do I need to do to help t= hem,,,,           &nb= sp;            &= nbsp;      Thank You for your advise,,, Joan Perry<= /FONT> -------------------------------1073159539-- From boster4evr@aol.com Sat Jan 3 17:57:31 2004 From: boster4evr@aol.com (boster4evr@aol.com) Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 10:57:31 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401031757.i03HvVF1022211@Ag.arizona.edu> Our ficus trees suffered frost damage last week. They are less than 3 years old - when do we trim the damaged areas? How much should we trim off? From mne@juno.com Sat Jan 3 19:13:16 2004 From: mne@juno.com (mne@juno.com) Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 12:13:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: <20040103.121616.3280.4.MNE@juno.com> Hello~ We have, in our neighborhood, a carob tree. One of the persons considering moving in has heard that the carob tree is especially attractive to bees, more-so than the citrus trees which are locally abundant. None of the encyclopedias, etc., that I've researched mention any special attraction of carob trees, nor the special affinity of bees (that might sting) to carob trees. I'd appreciate any information that You might have on this. Sincerely, Marshall Esty, Secretary, Shasta Valley Home Owners Association. MNE@juno.com From mongotu@cox.net Sat Jan 3 16:06:57 2004 From: mongotu@cox.net (Lois Greer) Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2004 16:06:57 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Weed Killer Message-ID: <20040103230518.EENA11788.fed1mtao08.cox.net@pavilion> "It is best to apply pre-emergent weed killers to existing turf in late February or early March - this is the best time period to catch the spring germinating weeds such as spurge or crabgrass, just before warmer spring temperatures start them germinating. Fall pre-emergent herbicide can be applied in August or September for non-overseeded lawns or 2 weeks after ryegrass planting for those who overseed - this will help to control many of the the fall lawn weeds such as clovers." Can you give a couple of brand names? I have rock around the edges of my yard - would like to get the weeds early (not many last year, but fear they were establishing a foothold). How close with the weed killer can I get to citrus, palms, roses, ornamental bushes???? Thanks, and Holiday Hugs! Lois From boster4evr@aol.com Sat Jan 3 18:10:57 2004 From: boster4evr@aol.com (boster4evr@aol.com) Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 11:10:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401031810.i03IAvF1023433@Ag.arizona.edu> When do we trim regal mist grass? From GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com Sun Jan 4 01:19:06 2004 From: GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com (GardenGuy) Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2004 18:19:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200401031757.i03HvVF1022211@Ag.arizona.edu> References: <200401031757.i03HvVF1022211@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3FF76A0A.4030803@GardenersCorner.com> In the spring when you see new growth coming on, prune the areas that are dead and have new new growth at all. -- -- Chat with you later... Alan ----- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ***** LIVE Garden Chat Now Available ***** ----- Alan Zelhart GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- What do you mean that 2 years have passed?? boster4evr@aol.com wrote: >Our ficus trees suffered frost damage last week. They are less than 3 years old - when do we trim the damaged areas? How much should we trim off? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > From Jb5034@aol.com Sun Jan 4 01:29:16 2004 From: Jb5034@aol.com (Jb5034@aol.com) Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 20:29:16 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Saguaro seeds..... Message-ID: <187.23c0f43e.2d28c66c@aol.com> -------------------------------1073179756 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I ordered and received an envelope of saguaro seeds. Please tell me how to plant them. Thank you, Josh, San Antonio, TX -------------------------------1073179756 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I ordered and received an envelope of saguaro seeds. Please tell me how t= o plant them. Thank you, Josh, San Antonio, TX -------------------------------1073179756-- From watsontl@mindspring.com Sun Jan 4 15:49:24 2004 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2004 08:49:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Carobs and Bees References: <20040103.121616.3280.4.MNE@juno.com> Message-ID: <03da01c3d2da$54b24aa0$0f09b83f@S0029317241> I've lived with both carobs and various types of citrus over the years. Both attract bees, and I can't honestly say one does so more than the other. The only difference I've noticed is that carobs seem to draw a wider variety of pollen and nectar feeding insects (just an impression, nothing scientific). In my experience, bees drawn to a food source are not much of a risk for stinging. Bees become aggressive when they think their homes are threatened. My garden is planted with the aim of attracting bees for the sake of getting plants such as peppers thoroughly pollinated. I routinely work outside with honey bees and carpenter bees bumbling around just inches away. The only time I've ever been stung it was because I lost my balance and put a hand out to catch myself, right on top of a hapless honey bee. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2004 12:13 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) > Hello~ > > We have, in our neighborhood, a carob tree. One of the persons > considering moving in has heard that the carob tree is especially > attractive to bees, more-so than the citrus trees which are locally > abundant. > > None of the encyclopedias, etc., that I've researched mention any special > attraction of carob trees, nor the special affinity of bees (that might > sting) to carob trees. > > I'd appreciate any information that You might have on this. > > Sincerely, > > Marshall Esty, > > Secretary, Shasta Valley Home Owners Association. > MNE@juno.com > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From ericafrishkorn@hotmail.com Sun Jan 4 17:46:19 2004 From: ericafrishkorn@hotmail.com (ericafrishkorn@hotmail.com) Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2004 10:46:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401041746.i04HkJF1008467@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like to put up a privacy screen along my backyard wall. I believe I may have lost 48 columnar ficus trees during the recent cold snap we experienced. Because of the huge expense of my loss ($20K) I am concerned about putting in a plant which will survive as well as provide a very dense screen. I am considering either Leyland cypress or Italian cypress. Does one do better than the other or are there any other recommendations? The site location is Gilbert (my lot reached 25 degrees last week and was below freezing for at least 6 hours). Thanks. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Jan 4 21:38:44 2004 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 04 Jan 2004 21:38:44 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Aleppo pines turning brown Message-ID: Your tree may have suffered from a physiological condition known as Aleppo Pine Blight. Our online Master Gardener Manual contains a plant pathology section, with a chart dedicated to pine tree problems. You can reach it at: http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/pathology/pine.html#pine The condition is controlled culturally. Maintain a uniform deep water supply to the tree throughout the year. Irrigate so that water is available to a depth of at least 5' for a mature tree. Just remember not to water the trunk--put the water at the drip line of the canopy. Some fertilizer is also recommended (1/4 cup per inch of trunk diameter at about 4' above the ground--apply half in March and half in July). The Timely Tips column for February had a link that discusses this http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/cultural/aleppo.htm symptoms: Symptoms usually occur in the upper part of the tree in December, but the damage was done several months earlier in the hot dry summer. Needles turn grey then brown but continue to cling to plump healthy branches until normal seasonal needle drop in the summer. Twigs and branches may die. Water-soaked cankers can appear on branches, which may split. Other diseases organisms may invade, but are not the cause of the blight. Sun-exposed sides are most affected. cause: Thought to be induced by day/night temperature extremes on tender, actively growing sections of the trees, or to drought stress. Linda Drew Master GArdener >From: trifive@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2004 10:47:45 -0700 (MST) > >I have several 40-50 year old alepo pine trees in my lawn. One of them is >brown and loosing needles on the entire south side. Small patches of green >remain on each branch. My neighbors have the same thing. Could it be a >worm/beetle or is it some sort of blight? What should I do? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get reliable dial-up Internet access now with our limited-time introductory offer. http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/dialup From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Jan 4 21:44:13 2004 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 04 Jan 2004 21:44:13 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] pruning grapes Message-ID: Response to an earlier, similar question: We have a publication called Backyard Grapes (MC 59) which is not unfortunately, available online. Send $1 to Home Horticulture Publications,University of Arizona Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040. Now is the time to prune grapes (early January to late February). This publication also has good information on fertilizing, irrigation and pest/disease control. Watch for Cooperative Extension demonstrations in January that will show you how to prune grapes. Following are the recommendations for pruning grapes in the low desert scanned from Maricopa County Fact Sheet MC 59, "Backyard grapes" -Olin Pruning Mature Plants - Long Cane System Handle anytime from early January into early February. From the main trunk on cane pruned varieties (Thompson seedless, Black Monukka and Concord) select 4 canes which are smooth and light tan in color. Have two of these canes near the top of the vine and two farther down on the main trunk. Cut back these four canes so that only 12 to 15 buds remain on each cane. These will be the fruiting canes. Then select four more canes, one below each fruiting cane and cut back to two buds. These will be the renewal spurs and will provide the canes one will select from the following year for fruiting canes. When the grapes are pruned in late winter some bleeding may occur at these cuts. Canes will normally tolerate this. Improper dormant pruning will eliminate its ability to bear grapes for that season. Pruning Mature Plants - Cordon System Varieties such as Perlette, Flame seedless, Cardinal and Exotic are trained to cordons which consist of two permanent arms extending two to two and a out horizontally from the head of the vine. These cordons must be trained on a wire initially but become rigid and self supporting by the 3rd or 4th year. Buds on these cordons will produce upright shoot growth (spurs) which is thinned to 6 to 7 spurs per arm or 12 to 14 total for the vine. The pruning of cordon trained vines is simply cutting all cane growth produced the previous summer except two buds (the spur) extending above the main cordon arm. These spurs, each two buds long, will produce the crop that season. The spurs will extend higher above the cordon arm each season. As two buds are added to their total length. >From: ejneary@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 08:45:44 -0700 (MST) > >When is a good time to prune red grape vines? Where can I find a good >reference for grape vine pruning techniques? Thanks for your help. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Tired of slow downloads? Compare online deals from your local high-speed providers now. https://broadband.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Jan 4 21:32:12 2004 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 04 Jan 2004 21:32:12 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] planting grass in January? Message-ID: I haven't tried this, but from what I've read I think the soil is too cold now for the grass to germinate. Rye does germinate and grow fairly quickly in warmer soils. Planting in late February/early March might still give you some nice lawn for the wedding. I'm sure more qualified readers will have a better answer. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Jenni Vercelli" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] planting grass in January? >Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 22:44:34 -0700 > >Hi - I am having a wedding in my backyard in April, but the backyard is >mostly dirt and some dead grass. Is it still possible to plant rye grass in >January and have it looking good come April? > >Thanks, > >Jenni - Mesa _________________________________________________________________ Working moms: Find helpful tips here on managing kids, home, work — and yourself. http://special.msn.com/msnbc/workingmom.armx From annjessop@aol.com Sun Jan 4 20:11:50 2004 From: annjessop@aol.com (annjessop@aol.com) Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2004 13:11:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401042011.i04KBoF1019204@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a Hoya plant that has white fuzzy things that yield a scale-like creature that attacks the new growth. How do I get rid of this pest? Thanks From jonadels@cox.net Sun Jan 4 20:04:33 2004 From: jonadels@cox.net (jonadels@cox.net) Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2004 13:04:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401042004.i04K4XF1018675@Ag.arizona.edu> Question: What would be a good privacy or hedge type plant to plant in a very narrow space by a pool? My pool is bordered by a 2 foot high wall. Behind this is a long strip of soil about 3 feet wide and bordered on the other side by a 6 foot wall. Oleanders had been planted there, were quite messy, and were not doing well, so I removed them. What would you recommend? Thanks for your help. From ericafrishkorn@hotmail.com Sun Jan 4 17:51:45 2004 From: ericafrishkorn@hotmail.com (ericafrishkorn@hotmail.com) Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2004 10:51:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401041751.i04HpjF1008782@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like to plant citrus trees this spring. Can anyone recommend varieties they believe to do best in our climate? I am interested in a lime, lemon, red grapefruit, white grapefruit, a few different oranges (not sour) and a blood orange. Thanks. From ericafrishkorn@hotmail.com Sun Jan 4 17:56:17 2004 From: ericafrishkorn@hotmail.com (ericafrishkorn@hotmail.com) Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2004 10:56:17 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401041756.i04HuHF1009056@Ag.arizona.edu> I am looking for flowers that will do well planted in northern exposure (part sun/part shade). I particularly like roses and other flowers with a long bloom season. Any suggestions? From mhills@seedsolutions.com Mon Jan 5 18:08:04 2004 From: mhills@seedsolutions.com (Mike Hills) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 11:08:04 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] planting grass in January? In-Reply-To: <000801c2b222$07a6cf80$5f990244@ph.cox.net> Message-ID: <001c01c3d3b6$df0e97d0$0500a8c0@RSIOAQ3YCFIW63> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001D_01C3D37C.3300C600 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello Jenni YES, you can still plant perennial ryegrass seed this time of year. It will be slow to germinate due to the cold, but should be well enough established by April to help with the traffic at a wedding. I've show below some links to University of Arizona turfgrass planting information that will be helpful. Be sure that you purchase "Perennial Ryegrass Seed" from your nursery or garden center - do not buy Annual Ryegrass seed, even though it is less expensive. The annual is messy and makes a lot of stems, plus requires far more mowing and maintenance to keep it under control. The perennial ryegrasses are darker green, less fast growing and stand up to traffic far btter, without all the green stains. Plan on about 10-15 pounds of ryegrass seed per 1,000 square feet - the higher rate will be better, since you are planting so late. Check the label on the bags at your local garden center or nursery to be sure you are buying "perennial" ryegrass seed. (NOTE: even though it is labeled "perennial", in our high summer temperatures it will die out - you still need a bermuda base as your permanent turf) One other thought if you want a permanent lawn, would be to purchase "overseeded bermuda sod" and have it installed now, to be wel rooted by April and capable of witrhstanding the party traffic. The sod farms in our area usually have this available throughout the winter season and they can either plant it themselves for a fee, deliver it for you to plant, or recommend a landscaper for the installation. It is a dormant bermudagrass base, with ryegrass already seeded into it in September so the ryegrass is growing lushly now, even in the winter cold. The benefit to this - you will have a stronger base sod that will withstand the traffic of a party much better, AND you will have a permanent bermuda lawn already planted and growing to replace your dead dirt yard. The sod farms can give you information on prepping your yard, if you choose this route, plus one of the university articles below details the process. Several key factors that will help with establishment of ryegrass seed in this cold winter weather: 1) soil preparation - not essential, but it wil help germination a lot if you can at least roto-till the yard to loosen the soil for the new roots - adding several inches of organic mulch, plus some high phosphate fertilizer will also be helpful and greatly improve your results (check the fertilizer bag labels - Phosphate is shown on the label and for turf starter should be about 20% or higher). AND, if you plan to plant bermudagrass this coming summer for a permanent lawn after the wedding, you will already have some of the soil prep out of the way. 2) water - an irrigation system will be helpful - again, not essential, but it is critical to irrigate lightly several times a day for the 3-4 weeks it will take the seeds to germinate this time of year, and this is hard to do uniformly with a hose and sprinklers 3) topdress, mulch - very critical when planting ryegrass seed late like this to add a dark mulch or manure to the surface after you put the seed down - you should apply about 1/2 inch layer for the best results. This dark mulch will help to hold moisture near the seeds for better results, and will also warm the soil which is helpful this late in the winter. 4) mowing - as soon as the grass seedlings reach 1 inch tall, start mowing them at about 3/4 inch height - this early mowing at a lower height will help the seedlings to leaf out and get stronger. BE SURE YOUR MOWER BLADES ARE SHARP, AND DO NOT WATER FOR AT LEAST 24 HOURS BEFORE YOUR MOW. Starting 2-3 weeks before the wedding party, let the grass grow up to 1-1/2 to 2 inch height - this extra grass blade height will help with wear tolerance with the high traffic. 5) fertilizer - after you have mowed the new grass seedlings the first 2-3 times, you should definitely add some fertilizer with a higher Nitrate nitrogen content, and preferably with some Iron. These will help the late planted ryegrass seedlings to grow and establish better. http://ag.arizona.edu/turf/tips1297.html http://ag.arizona.edu/turf/tt.htm http://ag.arizona.edu/turf/tips894.html http://ag.arizona.edu/turf/tips1195.html http://ag.arizona.edu/turf/tips1298.html http://ag.arizona.edu/turf/tips698.html Good Luck, Mike Hills Master Gardener Volunteer, Maricopa County -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Jenni Vercelli Sent: Wednesday, January 01, 2003 10:45 PM To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] planting grass in January? Hi - I am having a wedding in my backyard in April, but the backyard is mostly dirt and some dead grass. Is it still possible to plant rye grass in January and have it looking good come April? Thanks, Jenni - Mesa ------=_NextPart_000_001D_01C3D37C.3300C600 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hello=20 Jenni
 
YES,=20 you can still plant perennial ryegrass seed this time of=20 year.     It will be slow to germinate due to the = cold, but=20 should be well enough established by April to help with the traffic at a = wedding.     I've show below some links to = University of=20 Arizona turfgrass planting information that will be helpful.   = Be sure=20 that you purchase "Perennial Ryegrass Seed" from your nursery or garden = center -=20 do not buy Annual Ryegrass seed, even though it is less=20 expensive.    The annual is messy and makes a lot of = stems, plus=20 requires far more mowing and maintenance to keep it under=20 control.    The perennial ryegrasses are darker green, = less fast=20 growing and stand up to traffic far btter, without all the green=20 stains.     Plan on about 10-15 pounds of ryegrass = seed per=20 1,000 square feet - the higher rate will be better, since you are = planting so=20 late.   Check the label on the bags at your local garden = center or=20 nursery to be sure you are buying "perennial" ryegrass = seed.   =20 (NOTE:  even though it is labeled "perennial", in our high=20 summer temperatures it will die out - you still need a bermuda base = as your=20 permanent turf)
 
One=20 other thought if you want a permanent lawn, would be to purchase=20 "overseeded bermuda sod" and have it installed now, to be wel rooted by = April=20 and capable of witrhstanding the party traffic.    The = sod farms=20 in our area usually have this available throughout the winter season and = they=20 can either plant it themselves for a fee, deliver it for you to plant, = or=20 recommend a landscaper for the installation.   It is a dormant = bermudagrass base, with ryegrass already seeded into it in September so = the=20 ryegrass is growing lushly now, even in the winter = cold.    =20 The benefit to this - you will have a stronger base sod that will = withstand the=20 traffic of a party much better, AND you will have a permanent bermuda = lawn=20 already planted and growing to replace your dead dirt yard.   = The sod=20 farms can give you information on prepping your yard, if you choose this = route,=20 plus one of the university articles below details the=20 process.
 
Several key factors that will help with establishment of = ryegrass seed in=20 this cold winter weather:
1)  soil preparation - not essential, but it wil help = germination a=20 lot if you can at least roto-till the yard to loosen the soil for the = new roots=20 - adding several inches of organic mulch, plus some high phosphate = fertilizer=20 will also be helpful and greatly improve your results (check the = fertilizer bag=20 labels - Phosphate is shown on the label and for turf starter = should be=20 about 20% or higher).    AND, if you plan to plant = bermudagrass=20 this coming summer for a permanent lawn after the wedding, you will = already have=20 some of the soil prep out of the way.
2)  water - an irrigation system will be helpful - again, = not=20 essential, but it is critical to irrigate lightly several times a day = for the=20 3-4 weeks it will take the seeds to germinate this time of year, and = this is=20 hard to do uniformly with a hose and sprinklers
3)  topdress, mulch - very critical when planting ryegrass = seed late=20 like this to add a dark mulch or manure to the surface after you put the = seed=20 down - you should apply about 1/2 inch layer for the best=20 results.    This dark mulch will help to hold moisture = near the=20 seeds for better results, and will also warm the soil which is helpful = this late=20 in the winter.  
4)  mowing - as soon as the grass seedlings reach 1 inch = tall, start=20 mowing them at about 3/4 inch height - this early mowing at a lower = height=20 will help the seedlings to leaf out and get = stronger.     BE=20 SURE YOUR MOWER BLADES ARE SHARP, AND DO NOT WATER FOR AT LEAST 24 HOURS = BEFORE=20 YOUR MOW.    Starting 2-3 weeks before the wedding party, let = the=20 grass grow up to 1-1/2 to 2 inch height - this extra grass blade height = will=20 help with wear tolerance with the high traffic.
5)  fertilizer - after you have mowed the new grass = seedlings the=20 first 2-3 times, you should definitely add some fertilizer with a = higher=20 Nitrate nitrogen content, and preferably with some = Iron.    These=20 will help the late planted ryegrass seedlings to grow and establish=20 better.
 
http://ag.arizona.edu/t= urf/tips1297.html
 
http://ag.arizona.edu/turf/tt.= htm
 
http://ag.arizona.edu/tu= rf/tips894.html
 
http://ag.arizona.edu/t= urf/tips1195.html
 
http://ag.arizona.edu/t= urf/tips1298.html
 
http://ag.arizona.edu/tu= rf/tips698.html
 
 
Good=20 Luck,
Mike=20 Hills
Master=20 Gardener Volunteer, Maricopa County
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From:=20 arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu=20 [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Jenni=20 Vercelli
Sent: Wednesday, January 01, 2003 10:45 = PM
To:=20 Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = planting grass=20 in January?

Hi - I am having a wedding in my = backyard in=20 April, but the backyard is mostly dirt and some dead grass. Is it = still=20 possible to plant rye grass in January and have it looking good come=20 April?
 
Thanks,
 
Jenni -=20 Mesa
------=_NextPart_000_001D_01C3D37C.3300C600-- From mhills@seedsolutions.com Mon Jan 5 18:47:33 2004 From: mhills@seedsolutions.com (Mike Hills) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 11:47:33 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Carobs and Bees In-Reply-To: <03da01c3d2da$54b24aa0$0f09b83f@S0029317241> Message-ID: <002601c3d3bc$62191830$0500a8c0@RSIOAQ3YCFIW63> I would agree completely with Tom. I raised bees for many years in Maricopa County, and they do like to collect nectar and pollen from Carob trees, but no more than from any other blooms such as citrus, garden flowers, native trees, herbs, etc. AND, he is completely correct that bees working at honey gathering are NOT aggressive - they are busy with more important matters. Bees only get aggressive when their hive, queen and young are threatened. Even the Africanised bees that have moved into Arizona, only attack people and animals when their hive is threatened or damaged. If you step on a nectar working bee, or squish one with your hand, yes you may get stung, but otherwise working bees should leave you and your family and pets well enough alone. Bees are an essential part of human food production, so value any honeybees you see working in your yard and neighborhood. http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/insects/ahb/inf18.html - excellent article on bees and safetly questions http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/insects/ahb/inf5.html http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/insects/ahb/inf10.html Many more articles on bees and beekeeping if you or your friends and family have nterest http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/insects/ahb/inflist.html Hope this has helped with your concerns, Mike Hills Master Gardener Volunteer, Maricopa County ----------------------------------------------------------------------- -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Tom & Linda Watson Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2004 8:49 AM To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu; mne@juno.com Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Carobs and Bees I've lived with both carobs and various types of citrus over the years. Both attract bees, and I can't honestly say one does so more than the other. The only difference I've noticed is that carobs seem to draw a wider variety of pollen and nectar feeding insects (just an impression, nothing scientific). In my experience, bees drawn to a food source are not much of a risk for stinging. Bees become aggressive when they think their homes are threatened. My garden is planted with the aim of attracting bees for the sake of getting plants such as peppers thoroughly pollinated. I routinely work outside with honey bees and carpenter bees bumbling around just inches away. The only time I've ever been stung it was because I lost my balance and put a hand out to catch myself, right on top of a hapless honey bee. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2004 12:13 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) > Hello~ > > We have, in our neighborhood, a carob tree. One of the persons > considering moving in has heard that the carob tree is especially > attractive to bees, more-so than the citrus trees which are locally > abundant. > > None of the encyclopedias, etc., that I've researched mention any special > attraction of carob trees, nor the special affinity of bees (that might > sting) to carob trees. > > I'd appreciate any information that You might have on this. > > Sincerely, > > Marshall Esty, > > Secretary, Shasta Valley Home Owners Association. > MNE@juno.com > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From mhills@seedsolutions.com Mon Jan 5 18:52:34 2004 From: mhills@seedsolutions.com (Mike Hills) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 11:52:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Weed Killer In-Reply-To: <20040103230518.EENA11788.fed1mtao08.cox.net@pavilion> Message-ID: <002701c3d3bd$152ce7d0$0500a8c0@RSIOAQ3YCFIW63> LOIS We cannot recommend specific brands. I would suggest that you go to your favorite nursery or garden center to discuss your specific herbicide needs. Talk with them about the different brands and products available for preventing weeds in turf areas, versus pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides for the graveled areas of your yard. Used correctly, and applied according to label recommendations, these products are safe with existing plants and turf. Read the labels closely for any cautions during application. As with any gardening products, there are many suitable versions on the market, with a wide range of prices and effectiveness - your local garden supplier can best help you choose a specific product to meet all your needs. Mike Hills Master Gardener Volunteer, Maricopa County -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Lois Greer Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2004 9:07 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Weed Killer "It is best to apply pre-emergent weed killers to existing turf in late February or early March - this is the best time period to catch the spring germinating weeds such as spurge or crabgrass, just before warmer spring temperatures start them germinating. Fall pre-emergent herbicide can be applied in August or September for non-overseeded lawns or 2 weeks after ryegrass planting for those who overseed - this will help to control many of the the fall lawn weeds such as clovers." Can you give a couple of brand names? I have rock around the edges of my yard - would like to get the weeds early (not many last year, but fear they were establishing a foothold). How close with the weed killer can I get to citrus, palms, roses, ornamental bushes???? Thanks, and Holiday Hugs! Lois _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From rodmcq6@highstream.net Mon Jan 5 23:53:10 2004 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 16:53:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Flowers for a partly shaded area Message-ID: <001e01c3d3e7$5b133f40$1c04e043@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001A_01C3D3AC.665B4900 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Erica, Roses will do well in a partly shaded area particularly if the shade is = in the afternoon. I always try to plant roses where they have PM shade. January is the time to plant roses and especially if they are bare root. Should you elect to plant roses I'll be glad to send you info on = planting, pruning and rose care. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian ------=_NextPart_000_001A_01C3D3AC.665B4900 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Erica,
Roses will do well in a partly shaded area = particularly if the=20 shade is in the afternoon. I always try to plant roses where they have = PM=20 shade.
January is the time to plant roses and especially if = they are=20 bare root.
Should you elect to plant roses I'll be glad to send = you info=20 on planting, pruning and rose care.
 
Good luck.
 
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Consulting=20 Rosarian 
------=_NextPart_000_001A_01C3D3AC.665B4900-- From rodmcq6@highstream.net Mon Jan 5 23:31:41 2004 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 16:31:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Freeze Damaged Lemons and Limes Message-ID: <001d01c3d3e7$59c51460$1c04e043@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C3D3A9.664900E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Joan, Lemon and lime trees are quite frost tender and can be damaged in a hard = freeze which we had last week in some areas of the valley . The best thing you can do is to be sure that the trees are irrigated = properly and the next time a frost is forcast cover the trees with a = blanket or sheet (the best is a frost blanket available at most = nurseries), wrap the trunks with several layers of newspaper, burlap or = blanket. The cover over the top should be removed during the day but the = trunk wrap can be left on. In addition if a hard freeze is forcast I string Xmas tree lights on the = tree and put a light bulb under the tree. Remember that if you live in the suburbs the temps are usually several = degrees colder than what is forcast for Sky Harbor. A thermometer is a = good investment. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C3D3A9.664900E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Joan,
Lemon and lime trees are quite frost = tender and=20 can be damaged in a hard freeze which we had last week in some = areas of the=20 valley .
The best thing you can do is to be = sure that the=20 trees are irrigated properly and the next time a frost is forcast cover = the=20 trees with a blanket or sheet (the best is a frost blanket available at = most=20 nurseries), wrap the trunks with several layers of newspaper, burlap or = blanket.=20 The cover over the top should be removed during the day but the trunk = wrap can=20 be left on.
In addition if a hard freeze is = forcast I string=20 Xmas tree lights on the tree and put a light bulb under the=20 tree.
Remember that if you live in the = suburbs the=20 temps are usually several degrees colder than what is forcast for Sky = Harbor. A=20 thermometer is a good investment.
 
Good luck.
 
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
 
------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C3D3A9.664900E0-- From hellofamoment@excite.com Tue Jan 6 00:28:44 2004 From: hellofamoment@excite.com (hellofamoment@excite.com) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 17:28:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401060028.i060SiF1023873@Ag.arizona.edu> There is an orange tree planted at the stable where I keep my horse. It is about 3 years old. It is planted in full sun and is between a riding arena & a turn out area. It receives regular deep watering & is covered during frost nights. The tree has hardly grown and the leaves are very sparse. The soil is very sandy so I don't think there is a problem with the roots. There has been little if any fruit. We also have 3 apple trees in the same situation that are thriving & producing fruit. Is there anything that can be done for this poor orange tree or does it just need more time to grow & develop a better root structure? Thank you for any information you can share with me. Diann From Lky2bfreeX2@aol.com Tue Jan 6 01:51:04 2004 From: Lky2bfreeX2@aol.com (Lky2bfreeX2@aol.com) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 20:51:04 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] palm trees Message-ID: --part1_dd.bb593a.2d2b6e88_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit what are all the different kinds of palm trees in AZ. --part1_dd.bb593a.2d2b6e88_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable what are=20= all the different kinds of palm trees in AZ. --part1_dd.bb593a.2d2b6e88_boundary-- From Lorkna@aol.com Tue Jan 6 06:10:45 2004 From: Lorkna@aol.com (Lorkna@aol.com) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 23:10:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401060610.i066AjF1025594@Ag.arizona.edu> My queen palm looks sickly for a few years. Is there something I can do to revitalize it and make it look healthier? It does get water once a month in summer, no water during the winter. Thanks in advance for your help. From Big3dogguys@aol.com Tue Jan 6 19:07:35 2004 From: Big3dogguys@aol.com (Big3dogguys@aol.com) Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 12:07:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401061907.i06J7ZF1010814@Ag.arizona.edu> What types of material can be used for a root barrier? From gwright@Ag.arizona.edu Tue Jan 6 18:18:31 2004 From: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu (Glenn C. Wright) Date: Tue, 06 Jan 2004 11:18:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Clementine Tangerines In-Reply-To: <200312300541.hBU5fPF1006575@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <5.1.1.6.2.20040105111103.03231dc0@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_98223375==.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed At 10:38 PM 12/29/2003 -0700, you wrote: >Happy Holidays! I found a website about Arizona citrus with your email >address enclosed and thought that I would email you a question or two. > > > >I live in Arizona (Phoenix area) and am very interested in planting about >six citrus trees; i.e., a couple of Washington Navels, a dwarf grapefruit >and then perhaps the remainder of trees in the Clementine variety of Mandarin. > > > >My first question is, do you know if Clementines (must be of the seedless >variety) will grow well in our hot desert climate? After purchasing a >small box of California Clementines (from Sun Pacific growers out of >Bakersfield) from our local grocery store, I thought that these are the >perfect citrus fruit: extremely easy to peel, very sweet, and absolutely >no seeds. Ever since tasting them I have been looking to buy three or four >trees. Can you help me find where to buy these trees? Are they a >proprietary variety that has some sort of patent? > > > >I called all the local nurseries in the phone book here and they are all >saying that the Clementine is the same as the Algerian. When I asked if >they have seeds, the nurseries tell me yes, they have seeds . I told them, >of course, these are not the Clementines that are selling in the stores >that have no seeds and that will soon be the most popular citrus fruit >around. The local Albertson s grocer here in Mesa told me that they can t >keep them on the self! > > > >Thanks for a reply. Anything you know would help. Dear Gary: Your question has a much more complex answer than you may have expected. It turns out that Clementines usually do grow well here in the desert, although less so if you have a sandy soil. Sandier soils will sometimes lead to granulation of the fruit, particularly if the tree is planted on a vigorous rootstock, such as volkameriana, macrophylla or rough lemon. To avoid this problem, (most of the time), plant a tree on a sour orange or 'Carrizo' rootstock, and plant in a heavier (silt or clay) soil. Seediness of the Clementine depends on the relative isolation of the trees in relation to other citrus trees. That is, the closer your tree is to other citrus, the more likely you will have seeds. The reason the Clementines you purchase in the store are seedless is that those fruit come from groves that are specifically planted in areas that are isolated from other citrus groves. It is unlikely that you will achieve seedlessness in your tree regardless of the Clementine that you purchase. Having said that, Clementines are still less seedy than many other mandarins, and are still easy to peel regardless of seeds. Several varieties of Clementines are available. The 'Algerian' (known in Spain as the 'Fino') is good. You may also see the 'Delite' or 'W. Murcott Afourer' varieties. ifn 5 to 10 years, you will see several truly seedless varieties originating in California on the market, however at this time, they are proprietary. Another variety that you could possibly find is called the 'Gold Nugget'. It is also from California, and is late, truly seedless, and fairly easy to peel. It is not as "pretty" as a Clementine, but still tastes good. If you wish to discuss Clementines further, you may wish to come to one of the two Citrus Clinics held in the Phoenix area (Mesa and Waddell) in late January. I'll be there and we can talk. For information on the Clinics, call the Maricopa County Extension Office at 602-470-8086. Best regards, GCW > Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D. Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist University of Arizona - Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center 2186 W. County 15th Street Somerton, AZ 85350 Phone: 928-726-0458 FAX: 928-726-1363 e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu --=====================_98223375==.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" At 10:38 PM 12/29/2003 -0700, you wrote:

Happy Holidays! I found a website about Arizona citrus with your email address enclosed and thought that I would email you a question or two.

 

I live in Arizona (Phoenix area) and am very interested in planting about six citrus trees; i.e., a couple of Washington Navels, a dwarf grapefruit and then perhaps the remainder of trees in the Clementine variety of Mandarin.

 

My first question is, do you know if Clementines (must be of the seedless variety) will grow well in our hot desert climate? After purchasing a small box of California Clementines (from Sun Pacific growers out of Bakersfield) from our local grocery store, I thought that these are the perfect citrus fruit: extremely easy to peel, very sweet, and absolutely no seeds. Ever since tasting them I have been looking to buy three or four trees. Can you help me find where to buy these trees? Are they a proprietary variety that has some sort of patent?

 

I called all the local nurseries in the phone book here and they are all saying that the Clementine is the same as the Algerian. When I asked if they have seeds, the nurseries tell me yes, they have seeds . I told them, of course, these are not the Clementines that are selling in the stores that have no seeds and that will soon be the most popular citrus fruit around. The local Albertson s grocer here in Mesa told me that they can t keep them on the self!

 

Thanks for a reply. Anything you know would help.

Dear Gary:
Your question has a much more complex answer than you may have expected.  It turns out that Clementines usually do grow well here in the desert, although less so if you have a sandy soil.  Sandier soils will sometimes lead to granulation of the fruit, particularly if the tree is planted on a vigorous rootstock, such as volkameriana, macrophylla or rough lemon.  To avoid this problem, (most of the time), plant a tree on a sour orange or 'Carrizo' rootstock, and plant in a heavier (silt or clay) soil.

Seediness of the Clementine depends on the relative isolation of the trees in relation to other citrus trees.  That is, the closer your tree is to other citrus, the more likely you will have seeds.  The reason the Clementines you purchase in the store are seedless is that those fruit come from groves that are specifically planted in areas that are isolated from other citrus groves.  It is unlikely that you will achieve seedlessness in your tree regardless of the Clementine that you purchase.  Having said that, Clementines are still less seedy than many other mandarins, and are still easy to peel regardless of seeds.

Several varieties of Clementines are available.  The 'Algerian' (known in Spain as the 'Fino') is good.  You may also see the 'Delite' or 'W. Murcott Afourer' varieties.  ifn 5 to 10 years, you will see several truly seedless varieties originating in California on the market, however at this time, they are proprietary.  Another variety that you could possibly find is called the 'Gold Nugget'.  It is also from California, and is late, truly seedless, and fairly easy to peel.  It is not as "pretty" as a Clementine, but still tastes good.  If you wish to discuss Clementines further, you may wish to come to one of the two Citrus Clinics held in the Phoenix area (Mesa and Waddell) in late January.  I'll be there and we can talk.  For information on the Clinics, call the Maricopa County Extension Office at 602-470-8086.

Best regards,
GCW





 

Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D.
Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist
University of Arizona - Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center
2186 W. County 15th Street
Somerton, AZ 85350
Phone: 928-726-0458
FAX: 928-726-1363
e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu --=====================_98223375==.ALT-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Jan 6 14:48:49 2004 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 06 Jan 2004 14:48:49 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] palm trees Message-ID: Check this publication about palms in Arizona: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021/ Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Lky2bfreeX2@aol.com >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] palm trees >Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 20:51:04 EST > >what are all the different kinds of palm trees in AZ. _________________________________________________________________ Have fun customizing MSN Messenger — learn how here! http://www.msnmessenger-download.com/tracking/reach_customize From mhills@seedsolutions.com Tue Jan 6 20:14:00 2004 From: mhills@seedsolutions.com (Mike Hills) Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 13:14:00 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Request - speaker raised bed gardening Message-ID: <002e01c3d491$a00d2bb0$0500a8c0@RSIOAQ3YCFIW63> Hello Arid Gardeners Our Phoenix area gardening group, the Arizona Herb Association, is looking for a speaker or two this spring on the topic of raised bed gardening - how to's, designs, materials, pros and cons, benefits, problems, what plants, etc. Can anyone recommend a potential speaker for this topic? Our meetings are the first Thursday of each month at 7pm and this would be for about 40-60 attendees. We are thinking of this topic for possible March or April or May, or even at one of our Fall meetings, depending on schedules. Look forward to hearing your replies and suggestions. Thank you, mike Mike Hills - President 2004 Arizona Herb Association www.arizonaherb.org From watsontl@mindspring.com Wed Jan 7 01:18:09 2004 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 18:18:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Orange Tree at Stable References: <200401060028.i060SiF1023873@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <04cd01c3d4bc$1d9b8f20$0f09b83f@S0029317241> It is on the young side to produce fruit, but that should not stop it from leafing out. It could be a nutrient problem; are the leaves it has nice and green, or are they yellowish. What sort of fertilizer does it receive? Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 5:28 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > There is an orange tree planted at the stable where I keep my horse. It is about 3 years old. It is planted in full sun and is between a riding arena & a turn out area. It receives regular deep watering & is covered during frost nights. The tree has hardly grown and the leaves are very sparse. The soil is very sandy so I don't think there is a problem with the roots. There has been little if any fruit. We also have 3 apple trees in the same situation that are thriving & producing fruit. Is there anything that can be done for this poor orange tree or does it just need more time to grow & develop a better root structure? Thank you for any information you can share with me. > > Diann > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From mhills@seedsolutions.com Wed Jan 7 00:15:34 2004 From: mhills@seedsolutions.com (Mike Hills) Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 17:15:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Request - speaker raised bed gardening In-Reply-To: <002e01c3d491$a00d2bb0$0500a8c0@RSIOAQ3YCFIW63> Message-ID: <003f01c3d4b3$5f4de200$0500a8c0@RSIOAQ3YCFIW63> Oooops All - thank you for those who pointed out my error. Here I am the President of the group and I typed in the wrong website. For anyone interested in our Arizona Herb Association, it is correctly www.azherb.org We have our first meeting of 2004 this Thursday January 8th, at 7pm in the Ocotillo Room at the Extension Office. Master Gardener and Desert Botanical Garden Horitulturalist Kirti Mathura will be speaking on native herb plants - growing and using. Please feel free to join us as our guests for this interesting presentation. Mike Hills Arizona Herb Association -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Mike Hills Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2004 1:14 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Cc: 'Mike McNatt' Subject: [Arid_gardener] Request - speaker raised bed gardening Hello Arid Gardeners Our Phoenix area gardening group, the Arizona Herb Association, is looking for a speaker or two this spring on the topic of raised bed gardening - how to's, designs, materials, pros and cons, benefits, problems, what plants, etc. Can anyone recommend a potential speaker for this topic? Our meetings are the first Thursday of each month at 7pm and this would be for about 40-60 attendees. We are thinking of this topic for possible March or April or May, or even at one of our Fall meetings, depending on schedules. Look forward to hearing your replies and suggestions. Thank you, mike Mike Hills - President 2004 Arizona Herb Association www.arizonaherb.org _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From phoenixbrd@cox.net Wed Jan 7 16:52:41 2004 From: phoenixbrd@cox.net (Gail Bonham) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 09:52:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tipu tree Message-ID: <000801c3d53e$aa864240$8900a8c0@yourw92p4bhlzg> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C3D503.FDDB1F00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have two 24 gal Tipu trees that I purchased in Nov. of 2002. One of = them has not looked like it was doing very well and on closer = examination I found the trunk had several small holes in it. Some of the = holes have a red substance coming out of them. Could you tell me if this = is an insect and what I need to do to eradicate it and save my tree. = There are just a few holes towards the top of the trunk of the second = tree and it is looking healthier then the first tree. Thank you for any = help you can give me.=20 Gail ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C3D503.FDDB1F00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I have two  24 gal Tipu trees that = I purchased=20 in Nov. of  2002. One of them has not looked like it was doing very = well=20 and on closer examination I found the trunk had several small holes in = it. Some=20 of the holes have a red substance coming out of them. Could you tell me = if this=20 is an insect and what I need to do to eradicate it and save my tree. = There are=20 just a few holes towards the top of the trunk of the second tree and it = is=20 looking healthier then the first tree. Thank you for any help you can = give=20 me. 
 Gail
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C3D503.FDDB1F00-- From taiseyh@hotmail.com Wed Jan 7 20:00:21 2004 From: taiseyh@hotmail.com (taiseyh@hotmail.com) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 13:00:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401072000.i07K0Ltg008944@Ag.arizona.edu> How do I treat white fly on a basil plant? From CathyR@ci.gilbert.az.us Wed Jan 7 23:52:26 2004 From: CathyR@ci.gilbert.az.us (Cathy Rymer) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 16:52:26 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Free Landscape Resource Message-ID: This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C3D579.4DC597A0 Content-Type: text/plain Your city's Water Conservation Office is extremely pleased to announce the publication of Landscape Plants for the Arizona Desert! This new publication replaces emphasizes the beauty and practicality of more than 200 low-water-use plants, carefully chosen from the Arizona Department of Water Resources low-water-use plant list by a team of landscape professionals. In our region of the Sonoran Desert, hundreds of low-water-use plants are available that vary in color, texture, form, and function. The purpose of the booklet is to help you select from the best of these plants to create an attractive, water-efficient landscape. The featured plants are drought hardy, tolerant of heat and cold, and adapted to our soil conditions. Many are native to our region, while others come from arid climates around the world. Details about each plant are arranged in easy-to-reference charts, and each plant is beautifully illustrated with a color photograph. A guide to understanding plant names and a cross reference index are included in the booklet as well. By selecting low-water use plants and watering them properly, home gardeners and landscape professionals have a unique opportunity to reduce the amount of water it takes to keep our landscapes attractive, healthy and thriving. This new 47 page booklet is available free to most Valley residents at your local nursery or by calling your water conservation office. For a complete list of offices visit the Arizona Municipal Water Users at http://www.amwua.org . Cathy Rymer Water Conservation Specialist Town of Gilbert 90 East Civic Center Drive Gilbert, Ariz. 85296 480-503-6896 ------_=_NextPart_001_01C3D579.4DC597A0 Content-Type: text/html

Your city's Water Conservation Office is extremely pleased to announce the publication of Landscape Plants for the Arizona Desert!

This new publication replaces emphasizes the beauty and practicality of more than 200 low-water-use plants, carefully chosen from the Arizona Department of Water Resources low-water-use plant list by a team of landscape professionals.

In our region of the Sonoran Desert, hundreds of low-water-use plants are available that vary in color, texture, form, and function. The purpose of the booklet is to help you select from the best of these plants to create an attractive, water-efficient landscape. The featured plants are drought hardy, tolerant of heat and cold, and adapted to our soil conditions. Many are native to our region, while others come from arid climates around the world.

Details about each plant are arranged in easy-to-reference charts, and each plant is beautifully illustrated with a color photograph. A guide to understanding plant names and a cross reference index are included in the booklet as well.

By selecting low-water use plants and watering them properly, home gardeners and landscape professionals have a unique opportunity to reduce the amount of water it takes to keep our landscapes attractive, healthy and thriving.

This new 47 page booklet is available free to most Valley residents at your local nursery or by calling your water conservation office. For a complete list of offices visit the Arizona Municipal Water Users at http://www.amwua.org .

 

 

Cathy Rymer

Water Conservation Specialist

Town of Gilbert

90 East Civic Center Drive
Gilbert, Ariz. 85296

480-503-6896

 

------_=_NextPart_001_01C3D579.4DC597A0-- From mhills@seedsolutions.com Thu Jan 8 00:57:19 2004 From: mhills@seedsolutions.com (Mike Hills) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 17:57:19 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Basil - Whitefly In-Reply-To: <200401072000.i07K0Ltg008944@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <004c01c3d582$5fc95280$0500a8c0@RSIOAQ3YCFIW63> Hello - Is your basil plant in the ground, a patio pot or in a greenhouse and are you here in Arizona? Could make a difference in the recommendations for white fly control on a food crop like this. If your plant is out in the garden and exposed, you may just want to pull and discard it and start with a new transplant after warmer temperatures return - you will not miss much production during the next few months due to the cold. Most people in Arizona would not be facing this problem, as our garden basil plants have frozen dead, due to the recent colder spells. But a few varieties such as 'Sweet Green' and 'African Blue' are much hardier, may still have some green leaves lower down, and may recover and regrow from the crown or lower stems after things warm up this Spring. Most other basil varieties are only weakly perennial in the garden and rarely survive even a mild winter (lemon, cinnamon, spicy globe, etc.). And the cold weather usually kills the adult white flies and some of the immatures, unless they are protected in a greenhouse, enclosed patio or sunroom. Most of the commercial products to control white flies can be toxic and are not recommended on edible leaf garden produce such as basil. Organic home gardeners will often use other methods, some as simple as just using a hard spray of water on the underside of the leaves to dislodge the immature white fly larvae. Other companies sell "sticky traps" and other items to trap and kill the flying adults. Here is the link to an information sheet with more details, plus some spray suggestions that may be worth trying. As recommended here, please try this only on 1 plant or part of the plant at first and wait 24 hours to see if there is any damage, before spraying everything. You will also have to wash any basil harvest well afterwards, in order to remove any of this residual spary, but it is not toxic. This webpage also has links to more detailed and commercial information on whitefly life cycles, large scale control, etc. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/whitefly.htm You may also want to attend our herb association monthly meeting on Thursday January 8th as a guest. 7 pm in the Ocotillo Room at Maricopa County Extension offices - 4341 East Broadway Road - Phoenix, AZ 85040. Our speaker at this meeting manages the herb and vegetable demonstration garden at the Desert Botanical Garden in Phoenix. She or any number of our members can also help with your questions at the meeting. Mike Hills Arizona Herb Association Phoenix, Arizona www.azherb.org -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of taiseyh@hotmail.com Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2004 1:00 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How do I treat white fly on a basil plant? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From mhills@seedsolutions.com Thu Jan 8 17:39:35 2004 From: mhills@seedsolutions.com (Mike Hills) Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 10:39:35 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] basil question In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <003b01c3d60e$62498f20$0500a8c0@RSIOAQ3YCFIW63> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_003C_01C3D5D3.B5EAB720 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello Duane Not sure where you are located, nor whether your plant is in the ground or a patio or in your house, but below is a message on basil and whiteflies that we provided to another gardener recently. Bottom line, some basils will make it through a winter and give you a headstart on your production the following season. If your plant seems to be healthy otherwise, I would leave it in the ground until all frost danger is past - you can even cover it with frostcloth or a towel on coldest nights to give it a better chance. With warm temperatures, and when you start seeing some new growth from buds lower down, then cut the frosted and old parts back to the new emerging buds, add some compost to the surface and water well. The plant should start growing fast, which will put you ahead of waiting until new transplants are available in the nurseries later in the Spring. I do this with my own basil plants, and the Sweet Green and African Blue varieties usually make a nice comeback for at least the first couple of years. One other note - you comment on small and few leaves on your existing basil plant. This is normal during the winter, and also a response to low fertilizr levels. To keep the production up in the warm weather growing season, or in a warm winter greenhouse it is necessary to make sure that basil has plenty of water and fertilizer for the best growth and production. If it is exposed to cold, then DO NOT add any fertilizer until warm temperatures return. Mike Hills Master Gardener Volunteer, Maricopa County Arizona Herb Association www.azherb.org ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Hills" To: ; Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2004 5:57 PM Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] Basil - Whitefly > Hello - > > Is your basil plant in the ground, a patio pot or in a greenhouse and are > you here in Arizona? Could make a difference in the recommendations for > white fly control on a food crop like this. If your plant is out in the > garden and exposed, you may just want to pull and discard it and start with > a new transplant after warmer temperatures return - you will not miss much > production during the next few months due to the cold. > > Most people in Arizona would not be facing this problem, as our garden basil > plants have frozen dead, due to the recent colder spells. But a few > varieties such as 'Sweet Green' and 'African Blue' are much hardier, may > still have some green leaves lower down, and may recover and regrow from the > crown or lower stems after things warm up this Spring. Most other basil > varieties are only weakly perennial in the garden and rarely survive even a > mild winter (lemon, cinnamon, spicy globe, etc.). And the cold weather > usually kills the adult white flies and some of the immatures, unless they > are protected in a greenhouse, enclosed patio or sunroom. > > Most of the commercial products to control white flies can be toxic and are > not recommended on edible leaf garden produce such as basil. Organic home > gardeners will often use other methods, some as simple as just using a hard > spray of water on the underside of the leaves to dislodge the immature white > fly larvae. Other companies sell "sticky traps" and other items to trap > and kill the flying adults. > > Here is the link to an information sheet with more details, plus some spray > suggestions that may be worth trying. As recommended here, please try this > only on 1 plant or part of the plant at first and wait 24 hours to see if > there is any damage, before spraying everything. You will also have to > wash any basil harvest well afterwards, in order to remove any of this > residual spary, but it is not toxic. This webpage also has links to more > detailed and commercial information on whitefly life cycles, large scale > control, etc. > > http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/whitefly.htm > > You may also want to attend our herb association monthly meeting on Thursday > January 8th as a guest. 7 pm in the Ocotillo Room at Maricopa County > Extension offices - 4341 East Broadway Road - Phoenix, AZ 85040. Our > speaker at this meeting manages the herb and vegetable demonstration garden > at the Desert Botanical Garden in Phoenix. She or any number of our > members can also help with your questions at the meeting. > > Mike Hills > Arizona Herb Association > Phoenix, Arizona > www.azherb.org > > > -----Original Message----- > From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu > [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of > taiseyh@hotmail.com > Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2004 1:00 PM > To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > > How do I treat white fly on a basil plant? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu -----Original Message----- From: F. Duane Marcum [mailto:fduanem@msn.com] Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2004 10:16 AM To: mhills@seedsolutions.com Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Request - speaker raised bed gardening I have a basil plant left over from last year. It looks very alive and continues to bloom but the leaves are very small and not too usable. Should I get rid of it and get a new one or can the old one be revived? ----- Original Message ----- From: Mike Hills To: mhills@seedsolutions.com ; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Cc: 'Mike McNatt' Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2004 5:15 PM Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] Request - speaker raised bed gardening Oooops All - thank you for those who pointed out my error. Here I am the President of the group and I typed in the wrong website. For anyone interested in our Arizona Herb Association, it is correctly www.azherb.org We have our first meeting of 2004 this Thursday January 8th, at 7pm in the Ocotillo Room at the Extension Office. Master Gardener and Desert Botanical Garden Horitulturalist Kirti Mathura will be speaking on native herb plants - growing and using. Please feel free to join us as our guests for this interesting presentation. Mike Hills Arizona Herb Association ------=_NextPart_000_003C_01C3D5D3.B5EAB720 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hello = Duane

Not = sure where you=20 are located, nor whether your plant is in the ground or a patio or in = your=20 house, but below is a message on basil and whiteflies that we provided = to=20 another gardener recently.   Bottom line, some basils will = make it=20 through a winter and give you a headstart on your production the = following=20 season.    If your plant seems to be healthy otherwise, I = would=20 leave it in the ground until all frost danger is past - you can even = cover it=20 with frostcloth or a towel on coldest nights to give it a better=20 chance.   With warm temperatures, and when you start seeing = some new=20 growth from buds lower down, then cut the frosted and old parts back to = the new=20 emerging buds, add some compost to the surface and water = well.  =20 The plant should start growing fast, which will put you ahead of waiting = until=20 new transplants are available in the nurseries later in the = Spring.  =20 I do this with my own basil plants, and the Sweet Green and African Blue = varieties usually make a nice comeback for at least the first couple of=20 years.

 

One = other note -=20 you comment on small and few leaves on your existing basil = plant.  =20 This is normal during the winter, and also a response to low fertilizr=20 levels.    To keep the production up in the=20 warm weather growing season, or in a warm winter greenhouse it = is=20 necessary to make sure that basil has plenty of water and fertilizer for = the=20 best growth and production.    If it is exposed to = cold,=20 then DO NOT add any fertilizer until warm temperatures = return.   =20

 

Mike=20 Hills

Master Gardener=20 Volunteer, Maricopa County

Arizona Herb=20 Association

www.azherb.org

 

----- Original Message = -----

From: "Mike Hills"=20 <mhills@seedsolutions.com>

To: <taiseyh@hotmail.com>;=20 <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>

Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2004 5:57 = PM

Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] Basil -=20 Whitefly

 

> Hello -

>

> Is your basil plant in the = ground, a patio=20 pot or in a greenhouse and are

> you here in Arizona? Could make a = difference=20 in the recommendations for

> white fly control on a food crop = like this.=20 If your plant is out in the

> garden and exposed, you may just = want to pull=20 and discard it and start

with

> a new transplant after warmer = temperatures=20 return - you will not miss much

> production during the next few = months due to=20 the cold.

>

> Most people in Arizona would not = be facing=20 this problem, as our garden

basil

> plants have frozen dead, due to = the recent=20 colder spells. But a few

> varieties such as 'Sweet Green' = and 'African=20 Blue' are much hardier, may

> still have some green leaves = lower down, and=20 may recover and regrow from

the

> crown or lower stems after things = warm up=20 this Spring. Most other basil

> varieties are only weakly = perennial in the=20 garden and rarely survive even

a

> mild winter (lemon, cinnamon, = spicy globe,=20 etc.). And the cold weather

> usually kills the adult white = flies and some=20 of the immatures, unless they

> are protected in a greenhouse, = enclosed patio=20 or sunroom.

>

> Most of the commercial products = to control=20 white flies can be toxic and

are

> not recommended on edible leaf = garden produce=20 such as basil. Organic

home

> gardeners will often use other = methods, some=20 as simple as just using a

hard

> spray of water on the underside = of the leaves=20 to dislodge the immature

white

> fly larvae. Other companies sell = "sticky=20 traps" and other items to trap

> and kill the flying = adults.

>

> Here is the link to an = information sheet with=20 more details, plus some

spray

> suggestions that may be worth = trying. As=20 recommended here, please try

this

> only on 1 plant or part of the = plant at first=20 and wait 24 hours to see if

> there is any damage, before = spraying=20 everything. You will also have to

> wash any basil harvest well = afterwards, in=20 order to remove any of this

> residual spary, but it is not = toxic. This=20 webpage also has links to more

> detailed and commercial = information on=20 whitefly life cycles, large scale

> control, etc.

>

>=20 http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/whitefly.htm

>

> You may also want to attend our = herb=20 association monthly meeting on

Thursday

> January 8th as a guest. 7 pm in = the Ocotillo=20 Room at Maricopa County

> Extension offices - 4341 East = Broadway Road -=20 Phoenix, AZ 85040. Our

> speaker at this meeting manages = the herb and=20 vegetable demonstration

garden

> at the Desert Botanical Garden in = Phoenix.=20 She or any number of our

> members can also help with your = questions at=20 the meeting.

>

> Mike Hills

> Arizona Herb = Association

> Phoenix, Arizona

> www.azherb.org

>

>

> -----Original = Message-----

> From:=20 arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu

> = [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On=20 Behalf Of

> taiseyh@hotmail.com

> Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2004 = 1:00=20 PM

> To: = arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu

> Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question = from=20 Home-Hort WWW page

>

>

> How do I treat white fly on a = basil=20 plant?

>

>=20 _______________________________________________

> Arid_gardener mailing = list

> = Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu

>=20 http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener

>

>=20 _______________________________________________

> Arid_gardener mailing = list

> = Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu

-----Original Message-----
From: F. Duane Marcum=20 [mailto:fduanem@msn.com]
Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2004 10:16 = AM
To:=20 mhills@seedsolutions.com
Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Request - = speaker=20 raised bed gardening

I have a basil plant left over from last year.  It looks = very alive=20 and continues to bloom but the leaves are very small and not too = usable. =20 Should I get rid of it and get a new one or can the old one be = revived? =20
 
 
 
 
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Hills
To: mhills@seedsolutions.com ; = arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= =20
Cc: 'Mike McNatt'
Sent: Tuesday, January 06, = 2004 5:15=20 PM
Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] = Request -=20 speaker raised bed gardening

Oooops All - thank you for those who pointed out my=20 error.

Here I am the President of the group and I typed in = the wrong=20 website.

For anyone interested in our Arizona Herb = Association, it is=20 correctly

www.azherb.org


We have = our first=20 meeting of 2004 this Thursday January 8th, at 7pm in the
Ocotillo = Room at=20 the Extension Office.   Master Gardener and = Desert
Botanical=20 Garden Horitulturalist Kirti Mathura will be speaking on = native
herb=20 plants - growing and using.   Please feel free to join us = as our=20 guests
for this interesting presentation.


Mike=20 Hills
Arizona Herb=20 Association


------=_NextPart_000_003C_01C3D5D3.B5EAB720-- From tera@terasgarden.com Thu Jan 8 15:08:05 2004 From: tera@terasgarden.com (Tera's Garden) Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 08:08:05 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bare Root Roses Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20040108080752.00ab5be0@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_641625==_ Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Bare Root Rose Season Bare Root Roses from Meilland Star Roses have arrived! Our selection of roses is composed of ones that I like. They are, for the most part fragrant, easy care or both (Although I chose Guy De Maupassant because I am a fan of his writing). Bare roots run from $10.99 - $13.99 and potted trees run from $28.99 for 24" tall trees, to $58.99 for 60" tall trees. The following is a partial list. Please come in to see the full assortment. New Introductions for 2004: Honey Perfume: 2004 AARS winner with apricot yellow blooms that have a sweet-spicy scent from spring through autumn Memorial Day: 2004 AARS winner with old fashioned pink blossoms and a strong classic rose scent. Betty White: Has the fragrance, soft pink-apricot color, and shape of a true antique rose. Ideal for cutting and disease resistant. Bronze Star: Deep apricot hybrid tea. World War II Memorial: Hybrid tea with distinctive white, gray and lavender coloring. Preference: Free flowering floribunda with a deep red bloom that won't fade in the heat. Proven Favorites: Gina Lollobrigida: A hybrid tea rose with a deep, deep yellow color and a slight fragrance. It blooms all summer long and looks like an antique rose with a 120 petal count. Sunsprite: A miniature yellow rose trained into a 36" tall tree. Iceberg: A white climbing rose trained into a 24" tall weeping rose tree. Don Juan Climbing: A classic red rose with a climbing habit. Polka Climbing: A heat loving peach rose with a climbing habit and an old fashioned look. Comtesse de Provence: Coral pink, quatrered blooms, strongly scented of ripe apricots. Peter Mayle: Extremely vigorous Romantica with fragrant, long lasting pink blooms. Guy de Maupassant: Pink, old fashioned blooms with apple fragrance. Gertrude Jekyll: Large pink rosettes with a damask rose fragrance. Tamora: Compact David Austin rose with apricot blooms and a myrrh fragrance. Graham Thomas: David Austin rose with deep yellow, cup-shaped blooms and tea-rose fragrance. Prospero: David Austin rose in deep red with a mum shape. Gruss an Achen: Small antique rose with pale pink blooms. Marmalade Skies: Compact, ever-blooming floribunda with tangerine orange blooms. If you have never done bare root roses before, they are a nice alternative to canned roses as they are less expensive and offer a better selection. It is also easier to see the overall structure of a rose when it is leafless, and therefore make a better selection. We can offer instructions to guarantee success for first time planters. Now is not just a good time to plant bare root roses, but soon to arrive (February 1st) are the pips for the Lily of the Valley. These short-lived plants are grown indoors to flood your home with a springtime fragrance. We also have some potted early spring bulbs (alliums, camassias, irises etc.) that have started to come up. It is not too late to get some of your spring bulbs in, but we potted up some of our more unusual choices to demonstrate how they grow. Bare root roses have not been our only delivery in the new year, a new shipment of fountains have arrived from Stonesmith Garden Vessels and we have a new selection of iron work from local artisan Kevin Hummelgard with Garden Iron Designs. Please stop in soon to see all of our new offerings. -Tera Tera's Garden 606 n. 4th Ave. Phoenix, AZ 85003 (602) 253-4744 Hours: Tues - Fri: 10AM - 6PM Sat: 9AM - 5PM Sun: 10AM - 5PM Closed Mondays --=====================_641625==_ Content-Type: application/mac-binhex40; name="Bare Root Roses1" Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="Bare Root Roses1" (This file must be converted with BinHex 4.0) :%%*KFQ8J8Qp[G#"5Eh0PFc%!3NP13@eNEh-!!!!!!Vm!!!!!qd4iRciL$!)""T! !#!!%!!!!!!!"!!%!!3H3!!B!#!!!!13%!!!!!!!!k!!"#)!(!"J!!!"*8%dZ6@P MFQpcEfCd)%eKD@`Z6QpdC3!a#!%,J!%!)3!!!$P&-6Bc-N)h0MG&1$G%0$*#36& %0M8d38%i-cJj-cP"!$!(!3f!"!!#!!!!!J!#!!%%N!!'!#`"!!!"!!!!$3!!!!- !!$!#!!!!#`!2$J!!!!!#!Im2!3!!!%N!!!!!!!!!J5XIT,kM%"QGEJ$G!3p8!J! !!!"MEQpjCA0!B@FZBA*THQpZB5jPC(8!8de88!"MEQpjCA0!B@FZBA*THQpZB5j PC(8!!!!!(J!#-!%!!!!&!!!!8de88!!!!!!H!!-`!3!!!"B!!!"MEQpjCA0!B@F ZBA*THQpZB5jPC(8!!!!$!"8-!3!!!!-!rJm'!!!!(J!"-!%!!!!B!!!!*f0ZEhP PFd"KCbjKFQPkEfjK,Q9NG5F!!J%,-!%!!!!E!!!!8de88$T$6NpC490!38FZ39* *@Np135j&4&8!!!-!!$N!!!!!#`"!1J%!!!!$!(%k!!!!!!)"pJm"!!!!"!!!!!! !!!)H0`%%J!%!%!!!!%*KFQ8J8Qp[G#"5Eh0PF`"U"3%&J!-!$J!!!03(!3!(!"- !!`!C!!-!&3%"))!$!!i!!!$8"`%!"`!6!!-!'3!$!"8"!3Q!!3!K!!!!188a0M- b3MFf0d8i0d3d-N*"-83f064"36Jc1$Nc18%!-!F"!j!!"J#!!!!!#!!!!!-!*J! !!!!!3!!j!,!#TTQ,eF-"(J!H$!%!!!!&!!!!8de88!!!!!!H!"m-!3!!!"8!!!" dCA*K3(4PFQ&cCf&bC'9Z,Q0[E3!!!!"!!!F`X!+QQB[9``&!!!J`X!+QQB[9``% H!$d!!3!!!!%!!!!!!!!!!`!002dh!!#('D#q!!!!: --=====================_641625==_-- From marc20031@cox.net Fri Jan 9 00:21:01 2004 From: marc20031@cox.net (marc20031@cox.net) Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 17:21:01 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401090021.i090L1tg025632@Ag.arizona.edu> My mother in Mesa is having a hard time figuring out why her trees are having problems regarding the roots. We just planted pepper trees last year and they were fine until the plant just died. She checked the roots and there's alot of mildew. How do you get rid of the mildew. It's killing certain plants. I advised to her using fertilizer but she does not agree. What is the secret? THank you for your time. Marc From sylviac@ispwest.com Thu Jan 8 22:59:37 2004 From: sylviac@ispwest.com (sylvia crawford) Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 15:59:37 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fiscus tree Message-ID: <3FFDE0D8.4072069F@ispwest.com> Master Gardener, I have a ficus tree that is about 12 feet tall and the top 1 1/2 feet the leaves are brown. The rest is green and looks good. Should I have the brown section cut off? This tree is about 10 years old and is in good shape otherwise. Thank you, Sylvia Crawford From mhills@seedsolutions.com Fri Jan 9 18:04:09 2004 From: mhills@seedsolutions.com (Mike Hills) Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 11:04:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Powdery Mildew Message-ID: <000801c3d6da$fc02ea90$0500a8c0@RSIOAQ3YCFIW63> Gladys - thank you for attending our herb meeting last night - we hope to see you and Phillip again. Here is some information on the Powdery Mildew you were asking about on your roses. You can also get some expert rose advice at the Home and Garden Show taking place today through Sunday at the Fairgrounds in downtown Phoenix. Several local rose gardening clubs will be displaying and answering questions in the gardening area at the show. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/pdr-mldw.htm Usually in this area, Powdery Mildew is only an occasional problem. If the problem persists and is worse on specific bushes, you may want to remove the susceptible roses and plant new roses of a variety that is resistant to the disease - local rose experts can provide lists of recommended varieties. This is a perfect time to plant new rose bushes. The rose gardening clubs on the website below, can also give you helpful information on care, and invite you to their next meeting where you can ask more detailed questions. http://cals.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/clubs.htm Hope this is helpful, Mike Hills Master Gardener Volunteer, Maricopa County Arizona Herb Association www.azherb.org From Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com Fri Jan 9 19:31:44 2004 From: Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com (Zelhart Alan-rpcs30) Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 12:31:44 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fiscus tree Message-ID: <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B99307088943C6@az33exm25.corp.mot.com> Sylvia, yes, you can have the dead stuff cut off, but wait until around mid February when all chances of frost