From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net Fri Jan 2 00:41:11 2004 From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2004 17:41:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [Arid_gardener]Last Frost Dates References: <003001c3cff3$d211f2a0$ad04e043@ibmbna6040> Message-ID: <006901c3d0c9$52df5dc0$c66b480c@olin> At our NW Phoenix "colder valley location" we had lows of 30 deg and 28 deg the past week. According to information at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/weather/frost.htm#first the average last frost date in the valley may range from February 7 through March depending on location The last frost date on record for downtown Phoenix was March 31 in 1987. Confirming what Rod said, the site shows the temperature in the suburbs is usually quite a bit lower. I find that once the lows drop below 45 deg our low is almost always 5 deg below downtown Phoenix. Because of our low humidity, the temperature will often drop below freezing and cause plant damage with no sign of the ice particle accumulation on plants or rooftops that are usually associated with freezing morning temperatures. ----- Original Message -----From: "Rod" rodmcq6@highstream.net >The Ficus nitida is frost tender and can be damaged at 25F and especially since it was just planted. There is nothing you can do now except to make sure that it is watered properly and to cover the crown and wrap the trunk if freezing temperatures are forecast. Remember that if you live in the suburbs the temperatures can be as much as 10 degrees lower than those forcast for Sky Harbor Airport. The Hibiscus can be damaged at 28F. An established Hibiscus will usually survive even if frozen to the ground but the newly planted Hibiscus may not make it if severely damaged. From Virginianns@aol.com Fri Jan 2 01:43:59 2004 From: Virginianns@aol.com (Virginianns@aol.com) Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2004 20:43:59 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Help Message-ID: My Yucca aloifolia (Spanish bannet) is six years old. Has been doing very well until about three months ago (during our very hot spell here in Arizona). Since then it appears as though all of its leaves are dying. I am very concerned. Some tell me to water it more. Others tell me not to water it at all. Can you tell me what the problem is and how do I help this poor tree? Thank you. Virginia From mongotu@cox.net Thu Jan 1 20:00:47 2004 From: mongotu@cox.net (Lois Greer) Date: Thu, 01 Jan 2004 20:00:47 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Frost Dates Message-ID: <20040102025859.UOQJ27510.fed1mtao02.cox.net@pavilion> I too have frostbit lantana and bougainvillae. Living in Mesa, would a good rule of thumb be: Cover plants if wx forecast is 42 or below? I had already realized at least 5 degrees difference from The Weather Channel forecase for Phoenix and actual Mesa temp, but this one snuck up on me big time! Can I leave oranges and grapefruit on a tree thru this cold wx??? Thanks, Lois From ericafrishkorn@hotmail.com Sat Jan 3 03:36:07 2004 From: ericafrishkorn@hotmail.com (ericafrishkorn@hotmail.com) Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2004 20:36:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401030336.i033a7F1017703@Ag.arizona.edu> I am concerned that ficus trees that I recently planted may have been severely damaged or possibly killed during the extremely cold frost we had last week. Temperatures at my home in Gilbert dropped as low as 25 degrees and were below freezing for at least 5-6 hours. Is it possible to tell at this time if they have died? Is there a certified arborist that you would recommend that might be of assistance? Thanks. From mhills@seedsolutions.com Fri Jan 2 20:15:18 2004 From: mhills@seedsolutions.com (Mike Hills) Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2004 13:15:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] hollyhocks and native mesquite In-Reply-To: <3FF0B43C.000003.15961@default.ph.cox.net> Message-ID: <002001c3d16d$26138600$0500a8c0@RSIOAQ3YCFIW63> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01C3D132.79B4AE00 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_001_0022_01C3D132.79B4AE00" ------=_NextPart_001_0022_01C3D132.79B4AE00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Gus A couple of suggestions and answers: Hollyhocks - these plants do usually take more than a year to start blooming in the Low Desert - and the bloom date the second year will depend on when the seeds were planted the first year. Usually the plants that bloom the best are about 15-18 months old. The plants also need plenty of sunlight for best bloom - perhaps your plants are shaded by a tree or on the north or east side of a wall or house where they do not get enough sunlight? Hollyhocks generally do not go fully dormant, but they can show some freeze damage when we have a hard frost as this year. Keep watering them, as a water-stressed hollyhock will freeze worse if we have more hard freezes this winter. With the return of warm temperatures this spring you should see the bloom stalks appear and have towering blooms all summer. Check out the many hollyhocks growing in the Arizona Herb Association demonstration garden at the Maricopa County Extension office - 4341 east Broadway Road, Phoenix - they look the same as yours. (members of the Arizona Herb Association will be working in the garden this Saturday morning Jan. 3rd if you are in the area) We have had hollyhocks blooming in this demonstration garden for many years. The plants are techincally perennials, and if you cut the first bloom stalk to the base when it is done, you can get additional shorter bloom stalks the same year, and the crown will continue to grow and bloom for several more years. Mesquite - most mesquites are "semi-deciduous" or "semi-evergreen", meaning they drop some of their leaves each winter. In a harder, colder winter such as this year, they will drop more leaves than you have seen for the past 2-3 warm winters. If you will check the twigs and branches they should be still pliable and green, just waiting for warm temperatures to leaf out again. Native American farmers in the southwest always considered the mesquite the true signpost of spring - once all frost danger was truly past, the mesquites leafed out. Good Luck with your gardening, Mike Hills Master Gardener, Maricopa County ---------------------------------------------------------------------- -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of gusnaz@cox.net Sent: Monday, December 29, 2003 4:10 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] hollyhocks and native mesquite Hello, I have a couple of questions, I planted 3 areas of my yard with hollyhocks from seed. The first year I had plenty of healthy green leaves and no stocks. This is the end of the second year and still no stocks, with plenty of green leaves. Do I wait 3 years until I get flowers. They are all on a drip system and I am wondering if I should stop the water on them so that they can be dormant. The hard frost we have had has burnt most of the leaves. Also I planted what I was told was a native mesquite, It was in a 24 inch box, and it is in its 2nd year. Last winter at this time, it lost some leaves but this year the tree is bare. I am only watering it once a month now that it is winter. Is it deciduous? Thanks for your help. Gus Nelson ____________________________________________________ IncrediMail - Email has finally evolved - Click Here ------=_NextPart_001_0022_01C3D132.79B4AE00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Gus
 
A couple of = suggestions and=20 answers:
 
Hollyhocks - these = plants do=20 usually take more than a year to start blooming in the Low Desert - and = the=20 bloom date the second year will depend on when the seeds were planted = the first=20 year.   Usually the plants that bloom the best are about 15-18 = months=20 old.    The plants also need plenty of sunlight for best = bloom -=20 perhaps your plants are shaded by a tree or on the north or east side of = a wall=20 or house where they do not get enough sunlight?    =20 Hollyhocks generally do not go fully dormant, but they can show some = freeze=20 damage when we have a hard frost as this year.    Keep = watering=20 them, as a water-stressed hollyhock will freeze worse if we have more = hard=20 freezes this winter.    With the return of warm = temperatures this=20 spring you should see the bloom stalks appear and have towering blooms = all=20 summer.     Check out the many hollyhocks growing in = the=20 Arizona Herb Association demonstration garden at the Maricopa County = Extension=20 office - 4341 east Broadway Road, Phoenix - they look the same as=20 yours.   (members of the Arizona Herb Association will be = working in=20 the garden this Saturday morning Jan. 3rd if you are in the area)   = We have=20 had hollyhocks blooming in this demonstration garden for many=20 years.    The plants are techincally perennials, and if = you cut=20 the first bloom stalk to the base when it is done, you can get = additional=20 shorter bloom stalks the same year, and the crown will continue to grow = and=20 bloom for several more years.
 
Mesquite - most = mesquites are=20 "semi-deciduous" or "semi-evergreen", meaning they drop some of their = leaves=20 each winter.   In a harder, colder winter such as this = year, they=20 will drop more leaves than you have seen for the past 2-3 warm=20 winters.    If you will check the twigs and branches they = should=20 be still pliable and green, just waiting for warm temperatures to leaf = out=20 again.    Native American farmers in the southwest always = considered the mesquite the true signpost of spring - once all frost = danger was=20 truly past, the mesquites leafed out.
 
Good Luck with your = gardening,
Mike Hills
Master Gardener, Maricopa=20 County
 
----------------------------------------------------------------= ------
-----Original Message-----
From:=20 arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu=20 [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of=20 gusnaz@cox.net
Sent: Monday, December 29, 2003 4:10=20 PM
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject:=20 [Arid_gardener] hollyhocks and native mesquite

Hello,
    I have a couple of questions, I planted = 3 areas=20 of my yard with hollyhocks from seed. The first year I had = plenty of=20 healthy green leaves and no stocks. This is the end of the = second=20 year and still no stocks, with plenty of green leaves. Do I wait = 3 years=20 until I get flowers. They are all on a drip system and I am = wondering if=20 I should stop the water on them so that they can be dormant. The = hard=20 frost we have had has burnt most of the leaves.  Also I = planted=20 what I was told was a native mesquite, It was in a 24 inch box, = and it=20 is in its 2nd year. Last winter at this time, it lost some = leaves but=20 this year the tree is bare. I am only watering it once a month = now that=20 it is winter. Is it deciduous? Thanks for your help. Gus Nelson=20
____________________________________________________
 =20 IncrediMail - Email has finally evolved - Click=20 = Here
------=_NextPart_001_0022_01C3D132.79B4AE00-- ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01C3D132.79B4AE00 Content-Type: image/gif; name="IMSTP.gif" Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 Content-ID: <142220320@02012004-3057> R0lGODlhFAAPALMIAP9gAM9gAM8vAM9gL/+QL5AvAGAvAP9gL////wAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAACH/C05FVFNDQVBFMi4wAwEAAAAh+QQJFAAIACwAAAAAFAAPAAAEVRDJSaudJuudrxlEKI6B URlCUYyjKpgYAKSgOBSCDEuGDKgrAtC3Q/R+hkPJEDgYCjpKr5A8WK9OaPFZwHoPqm3366VKyeRt E30tVVRscMHDqV/u+AgAIfkEBWQACAAsAAAAABQADwAABBIQyUmrvTjrzbv/YCiOZGmeaAQAIfkE CRQACAAsAgABABAADQAABEoQIUOrpXIOwrsPxiQUheeRAgUA49YNhbCqK1kS9grQhXGAhsDBUJgZ AL2Dcqkk7ogFpvRAokSn0p4PO6UIuUsQggSmFjKXdAgRAQAh+QQFCgAIACwAAAAAFAAPAAAEEhDJ Sau9OOvNu/9gKI5kaZ5oBAAh+QQJFAAIACwCAAEAEAANAAAEShAhQ6ulcg7Cuw/GJBSF55ECBQDj 1g2FsKorWRL2CtCFcYCGwMFQmBkAvYNyqSTuiAWm9ECiRKfSng87pQi5SxCCBKYWMpd0CBEBACH5 BAVkAAgALAAAAAAUAA8AAAQSEMlJq7046827/2AojmRpnmgEADs= ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01C3D132.79B4AE00-- From mhills@seedsolutions.com Fri Jan 2 19:53:28 2004 From: mhills@seedsolutions.com (Mike Hills) Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2004 12:53:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lawns - herbicides In-Reply-To: <200312311421.hBVELmF1004412@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000601c3d16a$182321c0$0500a8c0@RSIOAQ3YCFIW63> It is best to apply pre-emergent weed killers to existing turf in late February or early March - this is the best time period to catch the spring germinating weeds such as spurge or crabgrass, just before warmer spring temperatures start them germinating. Fall pre-emergent herbicide can be applied in August or September for non-overseeded lawns or 2 weeks after ryegrass planting for those who overseed - this will help to control many of the the fall lawn weeds such as clovers. One other important Spring note, for the best recovery of your base bermudagrass: Pick a date in the first half of May and mow the grass down to about 1/2 inch (remove the clippings this time to your compost pile), add some high Nitrogen lawn fertilizer and water well. This is a good time to stimulate the bermuda to start growing again, while many of the dormant stolons and rhizomes (stems above and below ground) are still alive and ready to grow (check out your neighbors who did not plant ryegrass - their bermuda actually wakes up in April). Mowing the ryegrass down as low as you can, allows sunlight to reach the dormant bermuda and awaken it from its winter sleep. Many people wait until the ryegrass starts to go away on its own in late June or even July, but this is far too late - usually by that time the bermuda has starved to death due to shading from the ryegrass, and you get a poor stand of bermuda late in the summer, that has a hard time recovering. Forcing the ryegrass out in May and waking the bermuda up will give you the best results, and is more similar to what the more successful professional turf managers practice each year. Mike Hills Master Gardener, Maricopa County -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of davepolen@msn.com Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2003 7:22 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When should I apply pre-emergent crabgrass killer to my lawn? Currently, my lawn is overseeded with rye grass, and the summer turf is a bermuda variety known as BOB sod. Thanks. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From trifive@aol.com Fri Jan 2 17:47:45 2004 From: trifive@aol.com (trifive@aol.com) Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2004 10:47:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401021747.i02HljF1026366@Ag.arizona.edu> I have several 40-50 year old alepo pine trees in my lawn. One of them is brown and loosing needles on the entire south side. Small patches of green remain on each branch. My neighbors have the same thing. Could it be a worm/beetle or is it some sort of blight? What should I do? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Jan 2 16:53:38 2004 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 02 Jan 2004 16:53:38 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Yucca aloifolia Message-ID: According to Mary & Gary Irish, "Agaves, Yuccas and Related Plants": Yucca aloifolia... tolerates dry sandy soils or even soils that are moist for some parts of the year. It survives on natural rainfall in the southeastern United States and in Europe, but should be given supplemental water when planted in the driest parts of deserts in the Southwest. Watering is usually focused in the summer dry periods. - Based on that information, the summer drought may have damaged the plants but watering now is probably not helpful; if we do not get winter rains, one watering in this month might be helpful. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Virginianns@aol.com >To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Help >Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2004 20:43:59 EST > >My Yucca aloifolia (Spanish bannet) is six years old. Has been doing very >well until about three months ago (during our very hot spell here in >Arizona). >Since then it appears as though all of its leaves are dying. I am very >concerned. Some tell me to water it more. Others tell me not to water it >at all. > Can you tell me what the problem is and how do I help this poor tree? >Thank >you. Virginia >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Worried about inbox overload? Get MSN Extra Storage now! http://join.msn.com/?PAGE=features/es From kato.haws@asu.edu Fri Jan 2 16:24:27 2004 From: kato.haws@asu.edu (kato.haws@asu.edu) Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2004 09:24:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401021624.i02GORF1017541@Ag.arizona.edu> I really need to find out the answer to a couple questions about pecan trees. BACKGROUND: We have two pecan trees in our front yard. One is a really great pecan, more round than long. Fairly good bearer and a great keeper. The other is a long pecan, not round. It bears pretty well, but the nuts are misshapen and start to sprout almost before they hit the ground. QUESTION: How can I make the tree with the longish pecans more satisfactory -- a) replace it with one like the other one, or b) is a fertilization likely to improve the quality of the fruit, including its storability? Thanks, From flatspin@intelligencia.com Fri Jan 2 03:45:47 2004 From: flatspin@intelligencia.com (Shawn) Date: Thu, 01 Jan 2004 21:45:47 -0600 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Landscaping help in Mesa Message-ID: <5.2.1.1.0.20040101210115.00a89cb8@127.0.0.1> Happy New Year to all,

I'm moving back into my house in East Mesa in about ninty days and want to change the landscape both out front and in the back.  The house was built by Fulton, two car garage on left, entry in middle, windows on right (must be a million like it in the valley).  There is about 9' on each side of the house.

The back is easy, I want sod.  I'd never understood the appeal of grass until I spent a year in Pittsburgh.  I plan to remove all the half a**ed irrigation the prior owners installed and do the sod and irrigation correctly.  I'll keep all the roses and the lemon tree and maybe add lantana on the borders.  Before you cringe, it's only a 20'x60' area I want to sod, the 9'x60' areas on both sides will return to garden with desert appropriate irrigation I had prior to my transfer.  My garden areas (all above ground planter boxes) will also serve as a buffer between grass in back and desert out front.

It's the front where I really need help, the area is about 60'x30' including the 2 Car driveway..  I currently have a lava rock and the typical gravel so popular here.  I have three ocotillos and an assortment of very generic builder supplied desert/non-desert plants, the rock seems to be THE predominant heat attracting feature I notice.  I picture the house, see that rock and always picture a very hot summer day.

I want to add two large trees, acacias, mesquite or other desert trees (no thorns preferred) for the shade the will provide to the front of the south facing house, get rid of all that rock creating a more natural desert surface like I've seen in the open desert and DBG and finally, wild things up a bit with salt bush, milkweed (butterflies), etc.  Somehow the open desert doesn't seem as warm as all that unnatural rock.

In a nutshell, get rid of the rocks restoring a natural desert surface, add appropriate desert trees and plants and do any required irrigation.

Any advice/assistance appreciated?  By the way, any suggestions for a less utilized plant than lantana is also appreciated, it's pretty, but already everywhere.  My wife isn't a big fan of bees, they don't bother me but, I assume lantana in bloom gets its fair share.

Shawn
noli fovere canem ardentum

(Plain and simple. No HTML, large type, bold print, underlined text, flashy multiple colors, exotic fonts or =A2=DB=865|=CA numeric or symbol= substitutions. No bells, whistles, flashing lights or :). No self= glorification, new-age bonding, hyphenated buzz words, politics, political= correctness or religion. Not even a spell cheque! Simply a name and motto,= just a plain, two-line signature) From FarmerGreg@UrbanFarm.org Sat Jan 3 16:42:17 2004 From: FarmerGreg@UrbanFarm.org (Greg) Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 09:42:17 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200401030336.i033a7F1017703@Ag.arizona.edu> References: <200401030336.i033a7F1017703@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Check to see if the branches snap when you break them. If they bend and are soft and greenish inside it hasn't died. If they crack/snap then I would say they are done. If you end up replacing them, consider replacing them with fruit trees. Many citrus, apples, apricots, peaches, plums and other fruits do really well here and are not subject to being frozen. Then once a year they give you something really great to eat. Farmer Greg >I am concerned that ficus trees that I recently planted may have >been severely damaged or possibly killed during the extremely cold >frost we had last week. Temperatures at my home in Gilbert dropped >as low as 25 degrees and were below freezing for at least 5-6 hours. >Is it possible to tell at this time if they have died? Is there a >certified arborist that you would recommend that might be of >assistance? Thanks. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener -- ***ATTENTION*** Please note my new email address. FarmerGreg@UrbanFarm.org The Urban Farm Growing good food Having fun gardening Connecting with nature Greg Peterson http://www.urbanfarm.org 602/565-7045 From Joanpaz5729@aol.com Sat Jan 3 19:52:19 2004 From: Joanpaz5729@aol.com (Joanpaz5729@aol.com) Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 14:52:19 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Freeze Message-ID: <1e1.16c48320.2d287773@aol.com> -------------------------------1073159539 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have a Lemon and Lime tree, both are two years plus a couple months,,, they were doing great until last weeks freeze,, they are pretty sorry looking now,,, all the leaves are drooping ,some on the lime are yellow,,, they had both been reacently flood watered ,, several days before the freeze,,, can you tell me is there any hope for them now,,, and what do I need to do to help them,,,, Thank You for your advise,,, Joan Perry -------------------------------1073159539 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable   I=20= have a Lemon and Lime tree, both are two years plus a couple months,,, they=20= were doing great until last weeks freeze,, they are pretty sorry looking now= ,,, all the leaves are drooping ,some on the lime are yellow,,, they had bot= h been reacently flood watered ,, several days before the freeze,,, can you=20= tell me is there any hope for them now,,, and what do I need to do to help t= hem,,,,           &nb= sp;            &= nbsp;      Thank You for your advise,,, Joan Perry<= /FONT> -------------------------------1073159539-- From boster4evr@aol.com Sat Jan 3 17:57:31 2004 From: boster4evr@aol.com (boster4evr@aol.com) Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 10:57:31 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401031757.i03HvVF1022211@Ag.arizona.edu> Our ficus trees suffered frost damage last week. They are less than 3 years old - when do we trim the damaged areas? How much should we trim off? From mne@juno.com Sat Jan 3 19:13:16 2004 From: mne@juno.com (mne@juno.com) Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 12:13:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: <20040103.121616.3280.4.MNE@juno.com> Hello~ We have, in our neighborhood, a carob tree. One of the persons considering moving in has heard that the carob tree is especially attractive to bees, more-so than the citrus trees which are locally abundant. None of the encyclopedias, etc., that I've researched mention any special attraction of carob trees, nor the special affinity of bees (that might sting) to carob trees. I'd appreciate any information that You might have on this. Sincerely, Marshall Esty, Secretary, Shasta Valley Home Owners Association. MNE@juno.com From mongotu@cox.net Sat Jan 3 16:06:57 2004 From: mongotu@cox.net (Lois Greer) Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2004 16:06:57 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Weed Killer Message-ID: <20040103230518.EENA11788.fed1mtao08.cox.net@pavilion> "It is best to apply pre-emergent weed killers to existing turf in late February or early March - this is the best time period to catch the spring germinating weeds such as spurge or crabgrass, just before warmer spring temperatures start them germinating. Fall pre-emergent herbicide can be applied in August or September for non-overseeded lawns or 2 weeks after ryegrass planting for those who overseed - this will help to control many of the the fall lawn weeds such as clovers." Can you give a couple of brand names? I have rock around the edges of my yard - would like to get the weeds early (not many last year, but fear they were establishing a foothold). How close with the weed killer can I get to citrus, palms, roses, ornamental bushes???? Thanks, and Holiday Hugs! Lois From boster4evr@aol.com Sat Jan 3 18:10:57 2004 From: boster4evr@aol.com (boster4evr@aol.com) Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 11:10:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401031810.i03IAvF1023433@Ag.arizona.edu> When do we trim regal mist grass? From GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com Sun Jan 4 01:19:06 2004 From: GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com (GardenGuy) Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2004 18:19:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200401031757.i03HvVF1022211@Ag.arizona.edu> References: <200401031757.i03HvVF1022211@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3FF76A0A.4030803@GardenersCorner.com> In the spring when you see new growth coming on, prune the areas that are dead and have new new growth at all. -- -- Chat with you later... Alan ----- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ***** LIVE Garden Chat Now Available ***** ----- Alan Zelhart GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- What do you mean that 2 years have passed?? boster4evr@aol.com wrote: >Our ficus trees suffered frost damage last week. They are less than 3 years old - when do we trim the damaged areas? How much should we trim off? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > From Jb5034@aol.com Sun Jan 4 01:29:16 2004 From: Jb5034@aol.com (Jb5034@aol.com) Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2004 20:29:16 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Saguaro seeds..... Message-ID: <187.23c0f43e.2d28c66c@aol.com> -------------------------------1073179756 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I ordered and received an envelope of saguaro seeds. Please tell me how to plant them. Thank you, Josh, San Antonio, TX -------------------------------1073179756 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I ordered and received an envelope of saguaro seeds. Please tell me how t= o plant them. Thank you, Josh, San Antonio, TX -------------------------------1073179756-- From watsontl@mindspring.com Sun Jan 4 15:49:24 2004 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2004 08:49:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Carobs and Bees References: <20040103.121616.3280.4.MNE@juno.com> Message-ID: <03da01c3d2da$54b24aa0$0f09b83f@S0029317241> I've lived with both carobs and various types of citrus over the years. Both attract bees, and I can't honestly say one does so more than the other. The only difference I've noticed is that carobs seem to draw a wider variety of pollen and nectar feeding insects (just an impression, nothing scientific). In my experience, bees drawn to a food source are not much of a risk for stinging. Bees become aggressive when they think their homes are threatened. My garden is planted with the aim of attracting bees for the sake of getting plants such as peppers thoroughly pollinated. I routinely work outside with honey bees and carpenter bees bumbling around just inches away. The only time I've ever been stung it was because I lost my balance and put a hand out to catch myself, right on top of a hapless honey bee. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2004 12:13 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) > Hello~ > > We have, in our neighborhood, a carob tree. One of the persons > considering moving in has heard that the carob tree is especially > attractive to bees, more-so than the citrus trees which are locally > abundant. > > None of the encyclopedias, etc., that I've researched mention any special > attraction of carob trees, nor the special affinity of bees (that might > sting) to carob trees. > > I'd appreciate any information that You might have on this. > > Sincerely, > > Marshall Esty, > > Secretary, Shasta Valley Home Owners Association. > MNE@juno.com > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From ericafrishkorn@hotmail.com Sun Jan 4 17:46:19 2004 From: ericafrishkorn@hotmail.com (ericafrishkorn@hotmail.com) Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2004 10:46:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401041746.i04HkJF1008467@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like to put up a privacy screen along my backyard wall. I believe I may have lost 48 columnar ficus trees during the recent cold snap we experienced. Because of the huge expense of my loss ($20K) I am concerned about putting in a plant which will survive as well as provide a very dense screen. I am considering either Leyland cypress or Italian cypress. Does one do better than the other or are there any other recommendations? The site location is Gilbert (my lot reached 25 degrees last week and was below freezing for at least 6 hours). Thanks. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Jan 4 21:38:44 2004 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 04 Jan 2004 21:38:44 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Aleppo pines turning brown Message-ID: Your tree may have suffered from a physiological condition known as Aleppo Pine Blight. Our online Master Gardener Manual contains a plant pathology section, with a chart dedicated to pine tree problems. You can reach it at: http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/pathology/pine.html#pine The condition is controlled culturally. Maintain a uniform deep water supply to the tree throughout the year. Irrigate so that water is available to a depth of at least 5' for a mature tree. Just remember not to water the trunk--put the water at the drip line of the canopy. Some fertilizer is also recommended (1/4 cup per inch of trunk diameter at about 4' above the ground--apply half in March and half in July). The Timely Tips column for February had a link that discusses this http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/cultural/aleppo.htm symptoms: Symptoms usually occur in the upper part of the tree in December, but the damage was done several months earlier in the hot dry summer. Needles turn grey then brown but continue to cling to plump healthy branches until normal seasonal needle drop in the summer. Twigs and branches may die. Water-soaked cankers can appear on branches, which may split. Other diseases organisms may invade, but are not the cause of the blight. Sun-exposed sides are most affected. cause: Thought to be induced by day/night temperature extremes on tender, actively growing sections of the trees, or to drought stress. Linda Drew Master GArdener >From: trifive@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2004 10:47:45 -0700 (MST) > >I have several 40-50 year old alepo pine trees in my lawn. One of them is >brown and loosing needles on the entire south side. Small patches of green >remain on each branch. My neighbors have the same thing. Could it be a >worm/beetle or is it some sort of blight? What should I do? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get reliable dial-up Internet access now with our limited-time introductory offer. http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/dialup From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Jan 4 21:44:13 2004 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 04 Jan 2004 21:44:13 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] pruning grapes Message-ID: Response to an earlier, similar question: We have a publication called Backyard Grapes (MC 59) which is not unfortunately, available online. Send $1 to Home Horticulture Publications,University of Arizona Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040. Now is the time to prune grapes (early January to late February). This publication also has good information on fertilizing, irrigation and pest/disease control. Watch for Cooperative Extension demonstrations in January that will show you how to prune grapes. Following are the recommendations for pruning grapes in the low desert scanned from Maricopa County Fact Sheet MC 59, "Backyard grapes" -Olin Pruning Mature Plants - Long Cane System Handle anytime from early January into early February. From the main trunk on cane pruned varieties (Thompson seedless, Black Monukka and Concord) select 4 canes which are smooth and light tan in color. Have two of these canes near the top of the vine and two farther down on the main trunk. Cut back these four canes so that only 12 to 15 buds remain on each cane. These will be the fruiting canes. Then select four more canes, one below each fruiting cane and cut back to two buds. These will be the renewal spurs and will provide the canes one will select from the following year for fruiting canes. When the grapes are pruned in late winter some bleeding may occur at these cuts. Canes will normally tolerate this. Improper dormant pruning will eliminate its ability to bear grapes for that season. Pruning Mature Plants - Cordon System Varieties such as Perlette, Flame seedless, Cardinal and Exotic are trained to cordons which consist of two permanent arms extending two to two and a out horizontally from the head of the vine. These cordons must be trained on a wire initially but become rigid and self supporting by the 3rd or 4th year. Buds on these cordons will produce upright shoot growth (spurs) which is thinned to 6 to 7 spurs per arm or 12 to 14 total for the vine. The pruning of cordon trained vines is simply cutting all cane growth produced the previous summer except two buds (the spur) extending above the main cordon arm. These spurs, each two buds long, will produce the crop that season. The spurs will extend higher above the cordon arm each season. As two buds are added to their total length. >From: ejneary@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 08:45:44 -0700 (MST) > >When is a good time to prune red grape vines? Where can I find a good >reference for grape vine pruning techniques? Thanks for your help. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Tired of slow downloads? Compare online deals from your local high-speed providers now. https://broadband.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Jan 4 21:32:12 2004 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 04 Jan 2004 21:32:12 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] planting grass in January? Message-ID: I haven't tried this, but from what I've read I think the soil is too cold now for the grass to germinate. Rye does germinate and grow fairly quickly in warmer soils. Planting in late February/early March might still give you some nice lawn for the wedding. I'm sure more qualified readers will have a better answer. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Jenni Vercelli" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] planting grass in January? >Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 22:44:34 -0700 > >Hi - I am having a wedding in my backyard in April, but the backyard is >mostly dirt and some dead grass. Is it still possible to plant rye grass in >January and have it looking good come April? > >Thanks, > >Jenni - Mesa _________________________________________________________________ Working moms: Find helpful tips here on managing kids, home, work — and yourself. http://special.msn.com/msnbc/workingmom.armx From annjessop@aol.com Sun Jan 4 20:11:50 2004 From: annjessop@aol.com (annjessop@aol.com) Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2004 13:11:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401042011.i04KBoF1019204@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a Hoya plant that has white fuzzy things that yield a scale-like creature that attacks the new growth. How do I get rid of this pest? Thanks From jonadels@cox.net Sun Jan 4 20:04:33 2004 From: jonadels@cox.net (jonadels@cox.net) Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2004 13:04:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401042004.i04K4XF1018675@Ag.arizona.edu> Question: What would be a good privacy or hedge type plant to plant in a very narrow space by a pool? My pool is bordered by a 2 foot high wall. Behind this is a long strip of soil about 3 feet wide and bordered on the other side by a 6 foot wall. Oleanders had been planted there, were quite messy, and were not doing well, so I removed them. What would you recommend? Thanks for your help. From ericafrishkorn@hotmail.com Sun Jan 4 17:51:45 2004 From: ericafrishkorn@hotmail.com (ericafrishkorn@hotmail.com) Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2004 10:51:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401041751.i04HpjF1008782@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like to plant citrus trees this spring. Can anyone recommend varieties they believe to do best in our climate? I am interested in a lime, lemon, red grapefruit, white grapefruit, a few different oranges (not sour) and a blood orange. Thanks. From ericafrishkorn@hotmail.com Sun Jan 4 17:56:17 2004 From: ericafrishkorn@hotmail.com (ericafrishkorn@hotmail.com) Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2004 10:56:17 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401041756.i04HuHF1009056@Ag.arizona.edu> I am looking for flowers that will do well planted in northern exposure (part sun/part shade). I particularly like roses and other flowers with a long bloom season. Any suggestions? From mhills@seedsolutions.com Mon Jan 5 18:08:04 2004 From: mhills@seedsolutions.com (Mike Hills) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 11:08:04 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] planting grass in January? In-Reply-To: <000801c2b222$07a6cf80$5f990244@ph.cox.net> Message-ID: <001c01c3d3b6$df0e97d0$0500a8c0@RSIOAQ3YCFIW63> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001D_01C3D37C.3300C600 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello Jenni YES, you can still plant perennial ryegrass seed this time of year. It will be slow to germinate due to the cold, but should be well enough established by April to help with the traffic at a wedding. I've show below some links to University of Arizona turfgrass planting information that will be helpful. Be sure that you purchase "Perennial Ryegrass Seed" from your nursery or garden center - do not buy Annual Ryegrass seed, even though it is less expensive. The annual is messy and makes a lot of stems, plus requires far more mowing and maintenance to keep it under control. The perennial ryegrasses are darker green, less fast growing and stand up to traffic far btter, without all the green stains. Plan on about 10-15 pounds of ryegrass seed per 1,000 square feet - the higher rate will be better, since you are planting so late. Check the label on the bags at your local garden center or nursery to be sure you are buying "perennial" ryegrass seed. (NOTE: even though it is labeled "perennial", in our high summer temperatures it will die out - you still need a bermuda base as your permanent turf) One other thought if you want a permanent lawn, would be to purchase "overseeded bermuda sod" and have it installed now, to be wel rooted by April and capable of witrhstanding the party traffic. The sod farms in our area usually have this available throughout the winter season and they can either plant it themselves for a fee, deliver it for you to plant, or recommend a landscaper for the installation. It is a dormant bermudagrass base, with ryegrass already seeded into it in September so the ryegrass is growing lushly now, even in the winter cold. The benefit to this - you will have a stronger base sod that will withstand the traffic of a party much better, AND you will have a permanent bermuda lawn already planted and growing to replace your dead dirt yard. The sod farms can give you information on prepping your yard, if you choose this route, plus one of the university articles below details the process. Several key factors that will help with establishment of ryegrass seed in this cold winter weather: 1) soil preparation - not essential, but it wil help germination a lot if you can at least roto-till the yard to loosen the soil for the new roots - adding several inches of organic mulch, plus some high phosphate fertilizer will also be helpful and greatly improve your results (check the fertilizer bag labels - Phosphate is shown on the label and for turf starter should be about 20% or higher). AND, if you plan to plant bermudagrass this coming summer for a permanent lawn after the wedding, you will already have some of the soil prep out of the way. 2) water - an irrigation system will be helpful - again, not essential, but it is critical to irrigate lightly several times a day for the 3-4 weeks it will take the seeds to germinate this time of year, and this is hard to do uniformly with a hose and sprinklers 3) topdress, mulch - very critical when planting ryegrass seed late like this to add a dark mulch or manure to the surface after you put the seed down - you should apply about 1/2 inch layer for the best results. This dark mulch will help to hold moisture near the seeds for better results, and will also warm the soil which is helpful this late in the winter. 4) mowing - as soon as the grass seedlings reach 1 inch tall, start mowing them at about 3/4 inch height - this early mowing at a lower height will help the seedlings to leaf out and get stronger. BE SURE YOUR MOWER BLADES ARE SHARP, AND DO NOT WATER FOR AT LEAST 24 HOURS BEFORE YOUR MOW. Starting 2-3 weeks before the wedding party, let the grass grow up to 1-1/2 to 2 inch height - this extra grass blade height will help with wear tolerance with the high traffic. 5) fertilizer - after you have mowed the new grass seedlings the first 2-3 times, you should definitely add some fertilizer with a higher Nitrate nitrogen content, and preferably with some Iron. These will help the late planted ryegrass seedlings to grow and establish better. http://ag.arizona.edu/turf/tips1297.html http://ag.arizona.edu/turf/tt.htm http://ag.arizona.edu/turf/tips894.html http://ag.arizona.edu/turf/tips1195.html http://ag.arizona.edu/turf/tips1298.html http://ag.arizona.edu/turf/tips698.html Good Luck, Mike Hills Master Gardener Volunteer, Maricopa County -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Jenni Vercelli Sent: Wednesday, January 01, 2003 10:45 PM To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] planting grass in January? Hi - I am having a wedding in my backyard in April, but the backyard is mostly dirt and some dead grass. Is it still possible to plant rye grass in January and have it looking good come April? Thanks, Jenni - Mesa ------=_NextPart_000_001D_01C3D37C.3300C600 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hello=20 Jenni
 
YES,=20 you can still plant perennial ryegrass seed this time of=20 year.     It will be slow to germinate due to the = cold, but=20 should be well enough established by April to help with the traffic at a = wedding.     I've show below some links to = University of=20 Arizona turfgrass planting information that will be helpful.   = Be sure=20 that you purchase "Perennial Ryegrass Seed" from your nursery or garden = center -=20 do not buy Annual Ryegrass seed, even though it is less=20 expensive.    The annual is messy and makes a lot of = stems, plus=20 requires far more mowing and maintenance to keep it under=20 control.    The perennial ryegrasses are darker green, = less fast=20 growing and stand up to traffic far btter, without all the green=20 stains.     Plan on about 10-15 pounds of ryegrass = seed per=20 1,000 square feet - the higher rate will be better, since you are = planting so=20 late.   Check the label on the bags at your local garden = center or=20 nursery to be sure you are buying "perennial" ryegrass = seed.   =20 (NOTE:  even though it is labeled "perennial", in our high=20 summer temperatures it will die out - you still need a bermuda base = as your=20 permanent turf)
 
One=20 other thought if you want a permanent lawn, would be to purchase=20 "overseeded bermuda sod" and have it installed now, to be wel rooted by = April=20 and capable of witrhstanding the party traffic.    The = sod farms=20 in our area usually have this available throughout the winter season and = they=20 can either plant it themselves for a fee, deliver it for you to plant, = or=20 recommend a landscaper for the installation.   It is a dormant = bermudagrass base, with ryegrass already seeded into it in September so = the=20 ryegrass is growing lushly now, even in the winter = cold.    =20 The benefit to this - you will have a stronger base sod that will = withstand the=20 traffic of a party much better, AND you will have a permanent bermuda = lawn=20 already planted and growing to replace your dead dirt yard.   = The sod=20 farms can give you information on prepping your yard, if you choose this = route,=20 plus one of the university articles below details the=20 process.
 
Several key factors that will help with establishment of = ryegrass seed in=20 this cold winter weather:
1)  soil preparation - not essential, but it wil help = germination a=20 lot if you can at least roto-till the yard to loosen the soil for the = new roots=20 - adding several inches of organic mulch, plus some high phosphate = fertilizer=20 will also be helpful and greatly improve your results (check the = fertilizer bag=20 labels - Phosphate is shown on the label and for turf starter = should be=20 about 20% or higher).    AND, if you plan to plant = bermudagrass=20 this coming summer for a permanent lawn after the wedding, you will = already have=20 some of the soil prep out of the way.
2)  water - an irrigation system will be helpful - again, = not=20 essential, but it is critical to irrigate lightly several times a day = for the=20 3-4 weeks it will take the seeds to germinate this time of year, and = this is=20 hard to do uniformly with a hose and sprinklers
3)  topdress, mulch - very critical when planting ryegrass = seed late=20 like this to add a dark mulch or manure to the surface after you put the = seed=20 down - you should apply about 1/2 inch layer for the best=20 results.    This dark mulch will help to hold moisture = near the=20 seeds for better results, and will also warm the soil which is helpful = this late=20 in the winter.  
4)  mowing - as soon as the grass seedlings reach 1 inch = tall, start=20 mowing them at about 3/4 inch height - this early mowing at a lower = height=20 will help the seedlings to leaf out and get = stronger.     BE=20 SURE YOUR MOWER BLADES ARE SHARP, AND DO NOT WATER FOR AT LEAST 24 HOURS = BEFORE=20 YOUR MOW.    Starting 2-3 weeks before the wedding party, let = the=20 grass grow up to 1-1/2 to 2 inch height - this extra grass blade height = will=20 help with wear tolerance with the high traffic.
5)  fertilizer - after you have mowed the new grass = seedlings the=20 first 2-3 times, you should definitely add some fertilizer with a = higher=20 Nitrate nitrogen content, and preferably with some = Iron.    These=20 will help the late planted ryegrass seedlings to grow and establish=20 better.
 
http://ag.arizona.edu/t= urf/tips1297.html
 
http://ag.arizona.edu/turf/tt.= htm
 
http://ag.arizona.edu/tu= rf/tips894.html
 
http://ag.arizona.edu/t= urf/tips1195.html
 
http://ag.arizona.edu/t= urf/tips1298.html
 
http://ag.arizona.edu/tu= rf/tips698.html
 
 
Good=20 Luck,
Mike=20 Hills
Master=20 Gardener Volunteer, Maricopa County
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From:=20 arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu=20 [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Jenni=20 Vercelli
Sent: Wednesday, January 01, 2003 10:45 = PM
To:=20 Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = planting grass=20 in January?

Hi - I am having a wedding in my = backyard in=20 April, but the backyard is mostly dirt and some dead grass. Is it = still=20 possible to plant rye grass in January and have it looking good come=20 April?
 
Thanks,
 
Jenni -=20 Mesa
------=_NextPart_000_001D_01C3D37C.3300C600-- From mhills@seedsolutions.com Mon Jan 5 18:47:33 2004 From: mhills@seedsolutions.com (Mike Hills) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 11:47:33 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Carobs and Bees In-Reply-To: <03da01c3d2da$54b24aa0$0f09b83f@S0029317241> Message-ID: <002601c3d3bc$62191830$0500a8c0@RSIOAQ3YCFIW63> I would agree completely with Tom. I raised bees for many years in Maricopa County, and they do like to collect nectar and pollen from Carob trees, but no more than from any other blooms such as citrus, garden flowers, native trees, herbs, etc. AND, he is completely correct that bees working at honey gathering are NOT aggressive - they are busy with more important matters. Bees only get aggressive when their hive, queen and young are threatened. Even the Africanised bees that have moved into Arizona, only attack people and animals when their hive is threatened or damaged. If you step on a nectar working bee, or squish one with your hand, yes you may get stung, but otherwise working bees should leave you and your family and pets well enough alone. Bees are an essential part of human food production, so value any honeybees you see working in your yard and neighborhood. http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/insects/ahb/inf18.html - excellent article on bees and safetly questions http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/insects/ahb/inf5.html http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/insects/ahb/inf10.html Many more articles on bees and beekeeping if you or your friends and family have nterest http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/insects/ahb/inflist.html Hope this has helped with your concerns, Mike Hills Master Gardener Volunteer, Maricopa County ----------------------------------------------------------------------- -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Tom & Linda Watson Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2004 8:49 AM To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu; mne@juno.com Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Carobs and Bees I've lived with both carobs and various types of citrus over the years. Both attract bees, and I can't honestly say one does so more than the other. The only difference I've noticed is that carobs seem to draw a wider variety of pollen and nectar feeding insects (just an impression, nothing scientific). In my experience, bees drawn to a food source are not much of a risk for stinging. Bees become aggressive when they think their homes are threatened. My garden is planted with the aim of attracting bees for the sake of getting plants such as peppers thoroughly pollinated. I routinely work outside with honey bees and carpenter bees bumbling around just inches away. The only time I've ever been stung it was because I lost my balance and put a hand out to catch myself, right on top of a hapless honey bee. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2004 12:13 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) > Hello~ > > We have, in our neighborhood, a carob tree. One of the persons > considering moving in has heard that the carob tree is especially > attractive to bees, more-so than the citrus trees which are locally > abundant. > > None of the encyclopedias, etc., that I've researched mention any special > attraction of carob trees, nor the special affinity of bees (that might > sting) to carob trees. > > I'd appreciate any information that You might have on this. > > Sincerely, > > Marshall Esty, > > Secretary, Shasta Valley Home Owners Association. > MNE@juno.com > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From mhills@seedsolutions.com Mon Jan 5 18:52:34 2004 From: mhills@seedsolutions.com (Mike Hills) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 11:52:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Weed Killer In-Reply-To: <20040103230518.EENA11788.fed1mtao08.cox.net@pavilion> Message-ID: <002701c3d3bd$152ce7d0$0500a8c0@RSIOAQ3YCFIW63> LOIS We cannot recommend specific brands. I would suggest that you go to your favorite nursery or garden center to discuss your specific herbicide needs. Talk with them about the different brands and products available for preventing weeds in turf areas, versus pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides for the graveled areas of your yard. Used correctly, and applied according to label recommendations, these products are safe with existing plants and turf. Read the labels closely for any cautions during application. As with any gardening products, there are many suitable versions on the market, with a wide range of prices and effectiveness - your local garden supplier can best help you choose a specific product to meet all your needs. Mike Hills Master Gardener Volunteer, Maricopa County -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Lois Greer Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2004 9:07 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Weed Killer "It is best to apply pre-emergent weed killers to existing turf in late February or early March - this is the best time period to catch the spring germinating weeds such as spurge or crabgrass, just before warmer spring temperatures start them germinating. Fall pre-emergent herbicide can be applied in August or September for non-overseeded lawns or 2 weeks after ryegrass planting for those who overseed - this will help to control many of the the fall lawn weeds such as clovers." Can you give a couple of brand names? I have rock around the edges of my yard - would like to get the weeds early (not many last year, but fear they were establishing a foothold). How close with the weed killer can I get to citrus, palms, roses, ornamental bushes???? Thanks, and Holiday Hugs! Lois _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From rodmcq6@highstream.net Mon Jan 5 23:53:10 2004 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 16:53:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Flowers for a partly shaded area Message-ID: <001e01c3d3e7$5b133f40$1c04e043@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001A_01C3D3AC.665B4900 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Erica, Roses will do well in a partly shaded area particularly if the shade is = in the afternoon. I always try to plant roses where they have PM shade. January is the time to plant roses and especially if they are bare root. Should you elect to plant roses I'll be glad to send you info on = planting, pruning and rose care. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian ------=_NextPart_000_001A_01C3D3AC.665B4900 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Erica,
Roses will do well in a partly shaded area = particularly if the=20 shade is in the afternoon. I always try to plant roses where they have = PM=20 shade.
January is the time to plant roses and especially if = they are=20 bare root.
Should you elect to plant roses I'll be glad to send = you info=20 on planting, pruning and rose care.
 
Good luck.
 
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Consulting=20 Rosarian 
------=_NextPart_000_001A_01C3D3AC.665B4900-- From rodmcq6@highstream.net Mon Jan 5 23:31:41 2004 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 16:31:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Freeze Damaged Lemons and Limes Message-ID: <001d01c3d3e7$59c51460$1c04e043@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C3D3A9.664900E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Joan, Lemon and lime trees are quite frost tender and can be damaged in a hard = freeze which we had last week in some areas of the valley . The best thing you can do is to be sure that the trees are irrigated = properly and the next time a frost is forcast cover the trees with a = blanket or sheet (the best is a frost blanket available at most = nurseries), wrap the trunks with several layers of newspaper, burlap or = blanket. The cover over the top should be removed during the day but the = trunk wrap can be left on. In addition if a hard freeze is forcast I string Xmas tree lights on the = tree and put a light bulb under the tree. Remember that if you live in the suburbs the temps are usually several = degrees colder than what is forcast for Sky Harbor. A thermometer is a = good investment. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C3D3A9.664900E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Joan,
Lemon and lime trees are quite frost = tender and=20 can be damaged in a hard freeze which we had last week in some = areas of the=20 valley .
The best thing you can do is to be = sure that the=20 trees are irrigated properly and the next time a frost is forcast cover = the=20 trees with a blanket or sheet (the best is a frost blanket available at = most=20 nurseries), wrap the trunks with several layers of newspaper, burlap or = blanket.=20 The cover over the top should be removed during the day but the trunk = wrap can=20 be left on.
In addition if a hard freeze is = forcast I string=20 Xmas tree lights on the tree and put a light bulb under the=20 tree.
Remember that if you live in the = suburbs the=20 temps are usually several degrees colder than what is forcast for Sky = Harbor. A=20 thermometer is a good investment.
 
Good luck.
 
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
 
------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C3D3A9.664900E0-- From hellofamoment@excite.com Tue Jan 6 00:28:44 2004 From: hellofamoment@excite.com (hellofamoment@excite.com) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 17:28:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401060028.i060SiF1023873@Ag.arizona.edu> There is an orange tree planted at the stable where I keep my horse. It is about 3 years old. It is planted in full sun and is between a riding arena & a turn out area. It receives regular deep watering & is covered during frost nights. The tree has hardly grown and the leaves are very sparse. The soil is very sandy so I don't think there is a problem with the roots. There has been little if any fruit. We also have 3 apple trees in the same situation that are thriving & producing fruit. Is there anything that can be done for this poor orange tree or does it just need more time to grow & develop a better root structure? Thank you for any information you can share with me. Diann From Lky2bfreeX2@aol.com Tue Jan 6 01:51:04 2004 From: Lky2bfreeX2@aol.com (Lky2bfreeX2@aol.com) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 20:51:04 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] palm trees Message-ID: --part1_dd.bb593a.2d2b6e88_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit what are all the different kinds of palm trees in AZ. --part1_dd.bb593a.2d2b6e88_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable what are=20= all the different kinds of palm trees in AZ. --part1_dd.bb593a.2d2b6e88_boundary-- From Lorkna@aol.com Tue Jan 6 06:10:45 2004 From: Lorkna@aol.com (Lorkna@aol.com) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 23:10:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401060610.i066AjF1025594@Ag.arizona.edu> My queen palm looks sickly for a few years. Is there something I can do to revitalize it and make it look healthier? It does get water once a month in summer, no water during the winter. Thanks in advance for your help. From Big3dogguys@aol.com Tue Jan 6 19:07:35 2004 From: Big3dogguys@aol.com (Big3dogguys@aol.com) Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 12:07:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401061907.i06J7ZF1010814@Ag.arizona.edu> What types of material can be used for a root barrier? From gwright@Ag.arizona.edu Tue Jan 6 18:18:31 2004 From: gwright@Ag.arizona.edu (Glenn C. Wright) Date: Tue, 06 Jan 2004 11:18:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Clementine Tangerines In-Reply-To: <200312300541.hBU5fPF1006575@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <5.1.1.6.2.20040105111103.03231dc0@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_98223375==.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed At 10:38 PM 12/29/2003 -0700, you wrote: >Happy Holidays! I found a website about Arizona citrus with your email >address enclosed and thought that I would email you a question or two. > > > >I live in Arizona (Phoenix area) and am very interested in planting about >six citrus trees; i.e., a couple of Washington Navels, a dwarf grapefruit >and then perhaps the remainder of trees in the Clementine variety of Mandarin. > > > >My first question is, do you know if Clementines (must be of the seedless >variety) will grow well in our hot desert climate? After purchasing a >small box of California Clementines (from Sun Pacific growers out of >Bakersfield) from our local grocery store, I thought that these are the >perfect citrus fruit: extremely easy to peel, very sweet, and absolutely >no seeds. Ever since tasting them I have been looking to buy three or four >trees. Can you help me find where to buy these trees? Are they a >proprietary variety that has some sort of patent? > > > >I called all the local nurseries in the phone book here and they are all >saying that the Clementine is the same as the Algerian. When I asked if >they have seeds, the nurseries tell me yes, they have seeds . I told them, >of course, these are not the Clementines that are selling in the stores >that have no seeds and that will soon be the most popular citrus fruit >around. The local Albertson s grocer here in Mesa told me that they can t >keep them on the self! > > > >Thanks for a reply. Anything you know would help. Dear Gary: Your question has a much more complex answer than you may have expected. It turns out that Clementines usually do grow well here in the desert, although less so if you have a sandy soil. Sandier soils will sometimes lead to granulation of the fruit, particularly if the tree is planted on a vigorous rootstock, such as volkameriana, macrophylla or rough lemon. To avoid this problem, (most of the time), plant a tree on a sour orange or 'Carrizo' rootstock, and plant in a heavier (silt or clay) soil. Seediness of the Clementine depends on the relative isolation of the trees in relation to other citrus trees. That is, the closer your tree is to other citrus, the more likely you will have seeds. The reason the Clementines you purchase in the store are seedless is that those fruit come from groves that are specifically planted in areas that are isolated from other citrus groves. It is unlikely that you will achieve seedlessness in your tree regardless of the Clementine that you purchase. Having said that, Clementines are still less seedy than many other mandarins, and are still easy to peel regardless of seeds. Several varieties of Clementines are available. The 'Algerian' (known in Spain as the 'Fino') is good. You may also see the 'Delite' or 'W. Murcott Afourer' varieties. ifn 5 to 10 years, you will see several truly seedless varieties originating in California on the market, however at this time, they are proprietary. Another variety that you could possibly find is called the 'Gold Nugget'. It is also from California, and is late, truly seedless, and fairly easy to peel. It is not as "pretty" as a Clementine, but still tastes good. If you wish to discuss Clementines further, you may wish to come to one of the two Citrus Clinics held in the Phoenix area (Mesa and Waddell) in late January. I'll be there and we can talk. For information on the Clinics, call the Maricopa County Extension Office at 602-470-8086. Best regards, GCW > Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D. Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist University of Arizona - Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center 2186 W. County 15th Street Somerton, AZ 85350 Phone: 928-726-0458 FAX: 928-726-1363 e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu --=====================_98223375==.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" At 10:38 PM 12/29/2003 -0700, you wrote:

Happy Holidays! I found a website about Arizona citrus with your email address enclosed and thought that I would email you a question or two.

 

I live in Arizona (Phoenix area) and am very interested in planting about six citrus trees; i.e., a couple of Washington Navels, a dwarf grapefruit and then perhaps the remainder of trees in the Clementine variety of Mandarin.

 

My first question is, do you know if Clementines (must be of the seedless variety) will grow well in our hot desert climate? After purchasing a small box of California Clementines (from Sun Pacific growers out of Bakersfield) from our local grocery store, I thought that these are the perfect citrus fruit: extremely easy to peel, very sweet, and absolutely no seeds. Ever since tasting them I have been looking to buy three or four trees. Can you help me find where to buy these trees? Are they a proprietary variety that has some sort of patent?

 

I called all the local nurseries in the phone book here and they are all saying that the Clementine is the same as the Algerian. When I asked if they have seeds, the nurseries tell me yes, they have seeds . I told them, of course, these are not the Clementines that are selling in the stores that have no seeds and that will soon be the most popular citrus fruit around. The local Albertson s grocer here in Mesa told me that they can t keep them on the self!

 

Thanks for a reply. Anything you know would help.

Dear Gary:
Your question has a much more complex answer than you may have expected.  It turns out that Clementines usually do grow well here in the desert, although less so if you have a sandy soil.  Sandier soils will sometimes lead to granulation of the fruit, particularly if the tree is planted on a vigorous rootstock, such as volkameriana, macrophylla or rough lemon.  To avoid this problem, (most of the time), plant a tree on a sour orange or 'Carrizo' rootstock, and plant in a heavier (silt or clay) soil.

Seediness of the Clementine depends on the relative isolation of the trees in relation to other citrus trees.  That is, the closer your tree is to other citrus, the more likely you will have seeds.  The reason the Clementines you purchase in the store are seedless is that those fruit come from groves that are specifically planted in areas that are isolated from other citrus groves.  It is unlikely that you will achieve seedlessness in your tree regardless of the Clementine that you purchase.  Having said that, Clementines are still less seedy than many other mandarins, and are still easy to peel regardless of seeds.

Several varieties of Clementines are available.  The 'Algerian' (known in Spain as the 'Fino') is good.  You may also see the 'Delite' or 'W. Murcott Afourer' varieties.  ifn 5 to 10 years, you will see several truly seedless varieties originating in California on the market, however at this time, they are proprietary.  Another variety that you could possibly find is called the 'Gold Nugget'.  It is also from California, and is late, truly seedless, and fairly easy to peel.  It is not as "pretty" as a Clementine, but still tastes good.  If you wish to discuss Clementines further, you may wish to come to one of the two Citrus Clinics held in the Phoenix area (Mesa and Waddell) in late January.  I'll be there and we can talk.  For information on the Clinics, call the Maricopa County Extension Office at 602-470-8086.

Best regards,
GCW





 

Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D.
Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist
University of Arizona - Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center
2186 W. County 15th Street
Somerton, AZ 85350
Phone: 928-726-0458
FAX: 928-726-1363
e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu --=====================_98223375==.ALT-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Jan 6 14:48:49 2004 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 06 Jan 2004 14:48:49 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] palm trees Message-ID: Check this publication about palms in Arizona: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021/ Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Lky2bfreeX2@aol.com >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] palm trees >Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 20:51:04 EST > >what are all the different kinds of palm trees in AZ. _________________________________________________________________ Have fun customizing MSN Messenger — learn how here! http://www.msnmessenger-download.com/tracking/reach_customize From mhills@seedsolutions.com Tue Jan 6 20:14:00 2004 From: mhills@seedsolutions.com (Mike Hills) Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 13:14:00 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Request - speaker raised bed gardening Message-ID: <002e01c3d491$a00d2bb0$0500a8c0@RSIOAQ3YCFIW63> Hello Arid Gardeners Our Phoenix area gardening group, the Arizona Herb Association, is looking for a speaker or two this spring on the topic of raised bed gardening - how to's, designs, materials, pros and cons, benefits, problems, what plants, etc. Can anyone recommend a potential speaker for this topic? Our meetings are the first Thursday of each month at 7pm and this would be for about 40-60 attendees. We are thinking of this topic for possible March or April or May, or even at one of our Fall meetings, depending on schedules. Look forward to hearing your replies and suggestions. Thank you, mike Mike Hills - President 2004 Arizona Herb Association www.arizonaherb.org From watsontl@mindspring.com Wed Jan 7 01:18:09 2004 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 18:18:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Orange Tree at Stable References: <200401060028.i060SiF1023873@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <04cd01c3d4bc$1d9b8f20$0f09b83f@S0029317241> It is on the young side to produce fruit, but that should not stop it from leafing out. It could be a nutrient problem; are the leaves it has nice and green, or are they yellowish. What sort of fertilizer does it receive? Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 5:28 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > There is an orange tree planted at the stable where I keep my horse. It is about 3 years old. It is planted in full sun and is between a riding arena & a turn out area. It receives regular deep watering & is covered during frost nights. The tree has hardly grown and the leaves are very sparse. The soil is very sandy so I don't think there is a problem with the roots. There has been little if any fruit. We also have 3 apple trees in the same situation that are thriving & producing fruit. Is there anything that can be done for this poor orange tree or does it just need more time to grow & develop a better root structure? Thank you for any information you can share with me. > > Diann > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From mhills@seedsolutions.com Wed Jan 7 00:15:34 2004 From: mhills@seedsolutions.com (Mike Hills) Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 17:15:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Request - speaker raised bed gardening In-Reply-To: <002e01c3d491$a00d2bb0$0500a8c0@RSIOAQ3YCFIW63> Message-ID: <003f01c3d4b3$5f4de200$0500a8c0@RSIOAQ3YCFIW63> Oooops All - thank you for those who pointed out my error. Here I am the President of the group and I typed in the wrong website. For anyone interested in our Arizona Herb Association, it is correctly www.azherb.org We have our first meeting of 2004 this Thursday January 8th, at 7pm in the Ocotillo Room at the Extension Office. Master Gardener and Desert Botanical Garden Horitulturalist Kirti Mathura will be speaking on native herb plants - growing and using. Please feel free to join us as our guests for this interesting presentation. Mike Hills Arizona Herb Association -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Mike Hills Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2004 1:14 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Cc: 'Mike McNatt' Subject: [Arid_gardener] Request - speaker raised bed gardening Hello Arid Gardeners Our Phoenix area gardening group, the Arizona Herb Association, is looking for a speaker or two this spring on the topic of raised bed gardening - how to's, designs, materials, pros and cons, benefits, problems, what plants, etc. Can anyone recommend a potential speaker for this topic? Our meetings are the first Thursday of each month at 7pm and this would be for about 40-60 attendees. We are thinking of this topic for possible March or April or May, or even at one of our Fall meetings, depending on schedules. Look forward to hearing your replies and suggestions. Thank you, mike Mike Hills - President 2004 Arizona Herb Association www.arizonaherb.org _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From phoenixbrd@cox.net Wed Jan 7 16:52:41 2004 From: phoenixbrd@cox.net (Gail Bonham) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 09:52:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tipu tree Message-ID: <000801c3d53e$aa864240$8900a8c0@yourw92p4bhlzg> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C3D503.FDDB1F00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have two 24 gal Tipu trees that I purchased in Nov. of 2002. One of = them has not looked like it was doing very well and on closer = examination I found the trunk had several small holes in it. Some of the = holes have a red substance coming out of them. Could you tell me if this = is an insect and what I need to do to eradicate it and save my tree. = There are just a few holes towards the top of the trunk of the second = tree and it is looking healthier then the first tree. Thank you for any = help you can give me.=20 Gail ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C3D503.FDDB1F00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I have two  24 gal Tipu trees that = I purchased=20 in Nov. of  2002. One of them has not looked like it was doing very = well=20 and on closer examination I found the trunk had several small holes in = it. Some=20 of the holes have a red substance coming out of them. Could you tell me = if this=20 is an insect and what I need to do to eradicate it and save my tree. = There are=20 just a few holes towards the top of the trunk of the second tree and it = is=20 looking healthier then the first tree. Thank you for any help you can = give=20 me. 
 Gail
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C3D503.FDDB1F00-- From taiseyh@hotmail.com Wed Jan 7 20:00:21 2004 From: taiseyh@hotmail.com (taiseyh@hotmail.com) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 13:00:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401072000.i07K0Ltg008944@Ag.arizona.edu> How do I treat white fly on a basil plant? From CathyR@ci.gilbert.az.us Wed Jan 7 23:52:26 2004 From: CathyR@ci.gilbert.az.us (Cathy Rymer) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 16:52:26 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Free Landscape Resource Message-ID: This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C3D579.4DC597A0 Content-Type: text/plain Your city's Water Conservation Office is extremely pleased to announce the publication of Landscape Plants for the Arizona Desert! This new publication replaces emphasizes the beauty and practicality of more than 200 low-water-use plants, carefully chosen from the Arizona Department of Water Resources low-water-use plant list by a team of landscape professionals. In our region of the Sonoran Desert, hundreds of low-water-use plants are available that vary in color, texture, form, and function. The purpose of the booklet is to help you select from the best of these plants to create an attractive, water-efficient landscape. The featured plants are drought hardy, tolerant of heat and cold, and adapted to our soil conditions. Many are native to our region, while others come from arid climates around the world. Details about each plant are arranged in easy-to-reference charts, and each plant is beautifully illustrated with a color photograph. A guide to understanding plant names and a cross reference index are included in the booklet as well. By selecting low-water use plants and watering them properly, home gardeners and landscape professionals have a unique opportunity to reduce the amount of water it takes to keep our landscapes attractive, healthy and thriving. This new 47 page booklet is available free to most Valley residents at your local nursery or by calling your water conservation office. For a complete list of offices visit the Arizona Municipal Water Users at http://www.amwua.org . Cathy Rymer Water Conservation Specialist Town of Gilbert 90 East Civic Center Drive Gilbert, Ariz. 85296 480-503-6896 ------_=_NextPart_001_01C3D579.4DC597A0 Content-Type: text/html

Your city's Water Conservation Office is extremely pleased to announce the publication of Landscape Plants for the Arizona Desert!

This new publication replaces emphasizes the beauty and practicality of more than 200 low-water-use plants, carefully chosen from the Arizona Department of Water Resources low-water-use plant list by a team of landscape professionals.

In our region of the Sonoran Desert, hundreds of low-water-use plants are available that vary in color, texture, form, and function. The purpose of the booklet is to help you select from the best of these plants to create an attractive, water-efficient landscape. The featured plants are drought hardy, tolerant of heat and cold, and adapted to our soil conditions. Many are native to our region, while others come from arid climates around the world.

Details about each plant are arranged in easy-to-reference charts, and each plant is beautifully illustrated with a color photograph. A guide to understanding plant names and a cross reference index are included in the booklet as well.

By selecting low-water use plants and watering them properly, home gardeners and landscape professionals have a unique opportunity to reduce the amount of water it takes to keep our landscapes attractive, healthy and thriving.

This new 47 page booklet is available free to most Valley residents at your local nursery or by calling your water conservation office. For a complete list of offices visit the Arizona Municipal Water Users at http://www.amwua.org .

 

 

Cathy Rymer

Water Conservation Specialist

Town of Gilbert

90 East Civic Center Drive
Gilbert, Ariz. 85296

480-503-6896

 

------_=_NextPart_001_01C3D579.4DC597A0-- From mhills@seedsolutions.com Thu Jan 8 00:57:19 2004 From: mhills@seedsolutions.com (Mike Hills) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 17:57:19 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Basil - Whitefly In-Reply-To: <200401072000.i07K0Ltg008944@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <004c01c3d582$5fc95280$0500a8c0@RSIOAQ3YCFIW63> Hello - Is your basil plant in the ground, a patio pot or in a greenhouse and are you here in Arizona? Could make a difference in the recommendations for white fly control on a food crop like this. If your plant is out in the garden and exposed, you may just want to pull and discard it and start with a new transplant after warmer temperatures return - you will not miss much production during the next few months due to the cold. Most people in Arizona would not be facing this problem, as our garden basil plants have frozen dead, due to the recent colder spells. But a few varieties such as 'Sweet Green' and 'African Blue' are much hardier, may still have some green leaves lower down, and may recover and regrow from the crown or lower stems after things warm up this Spring. Most other basil varieties are only weakly perennial in the garden and rarely survive even a mild winter (lemon, cinnamon, spicy globe, etc.). And the cold weather usually kills the adult white flies and some of the immatures, unless they are protected in a greenhouse, enclosed patio or sunroom. Most of the commercial products to control white flies can be toxic and are not recommended on edible leaf garden produce such as basil. Organic home gardeners will often use other methods, some as simple as just using a hard spray of water on the underside of the leaves to dislodge the immature white fly larvae. Other companies sell "sticky traps" and other items to trap and kill the flying adults. Here is the link to an information sheet with more details, plus some spray suggestions that may be worth trying. As recommended here, please try this only on 1 plant or part of the plant at first and wait 24 hours to see if there is any damage, before spraying everything. You will also have to wash any basil harvest well afterwards, in order to remove any of this residual spary, but it is not toxic. This webpage also has links to more detailed and commercial information on whitefly life cycles, large scale control, etc. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/whitefly.htm You may also want to attend our herb association monthly meeting on Thursday January 8th as a guest. 7 pm in the Ocotillo Room at Maricopa County Extension offices - 4341 East Broadway Road - Phoenix, AZ 85040. Our speaker at this meeting manages the herb and vegetable demonstration garden at the Desert Botanical Garden in Phoenix. She or any number of our members can also help with your questions at the meeting. Mike Hills Arizona Herb Association Phoenix, Arizona www.azherb.org -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of taiseyh@hotmail.com Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2004 1:00 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How do I treat white fly on a basil plant? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From mhills@seedsolutions.com Thu Jan 8 17:39:35 2004 From: mhills@seedsolutions.com (Mike Hills) Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 10:39:35 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] basil question In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <003b01c3d60e$62498f20$0500a8c0@RSIOAQ3YCFIW63> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_003C_01C3D5D3.B5EAB720 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello Duane Not sure where you are located, nor whether your plant is in the ground or a patio or in your house, but below is a message on basil and whiteflies that we provided to another gardener recently. Bottom line, some basils will make it through a winter and give you a headstart on your production the following season. If your plant seems to be healthy otherwise, I would leave it in the ground until all frost danger is past - you can even cover it with frostcloth or a towel on coldest nights to give it a better chance. With warm temperatures, and when you start seeing some new growth from buds lower down, then cut the frosted and old parts back to the new emerging buds, add some compost to the surface and water well. The plant should start growing fast, which will put you ahead of waiting until new transplants are available in the nurseries later in the Spring. I do this with my own basil plants, and the Sweet Green and African Blue varieties usually make a nice comeback for at least the first couple of years. One other note - you comment on small and few leaves on your existing basil plant. This is normal during the winter, and also a response to low fertilizr levels. To keep the production up in the warm weather growing season, or in a warm winter greenhouse it is necessary to make sure that basil has plenty of water and fertilizer for the best growth and production. If it is exposed to cold, then DO NOT add any fertilizer until warm temperatures return. Mike Hills Master Gardener Volunteer, Maricopa County Arizona Herb Association www.azherb.org ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Hills" To: ; Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2004 5:57 PM Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] Basil - Whitefly > Hello - > > Is your basil plant in the ground, a patio pot or in a greenhouse and are > you here in Arizona? Could make a difference in the recommendations for > white fly control on a food crop like this. If your plant is out in the > garden and exposed, you may just want to pull and discard it and start with > a new transplant after warmer temperatures return - you will not miss much > production during the next few months due to the cold. > > Most people in Arizona would not be facing this problem, as our garden basil > plants have frozen dead, due to the recent colder spells. But a few > varieties such as 'Sweet Green' and 'African Blue' are much hardier, may > still have some green leaves lower down, and may recover and regrow from the > crown or lower stems after things warm up this Spring. Most other basil > varieties are only weakly perennial in the garden and rarely survive even a > mild winter (lemon, cinnamon, spicy globe, etc.). And the cold weather > usually kills the adult white flies and some of the immatures, unless they > are protected in a greenhouse, enclosed patio or sunroom. > > Most of the commercial products to control white flies can be toxic and are > not recommended on edible leaf garden produce such as basil. Organic home > gardeners will often use other methods, some as simple as just using a hard > spray of water on the underside of the leaves to dislodge the immature white > fly larvae. Other companies sell "sticky traps" and other items to trap > and kill the flying adults. > > Here is the link to an information sheet with more details, plus some spray > suggestions that may be worth trying. As recommended here, please try this > only on 1 plant or part of the plant at first and wait 24 hours to see if > there is any damage, before spraying everything. You will also have to > wash any basil harvest well afterwards, in order to remove any of this > residual spary, but it is not toxic. This webpage also has links to more > detailed and commercial information on whitefly life cycles, large scale > control, etc. > > http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/whitefly.htm > > You may also want to attend our herb association monthly meeting on Thursday > January 8th as a guest. 7 pm in the Ocotillo Room at Maricopa County > Extension offices - 4341 East Broadway Road - Phoenix, AZ 85040. Our > speaker at this meeting manages the herb and vegetable demonstration garden > at the Desert Botanical Garden in Phoenix. She or any number of our > members can also help with your questions at the meeting. > > Mike Hills > Arizona Herb Association > Phoenix, Arizona > www.azherb.org > > > -----Original Message----- > From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu > [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of > taiseyh@hotmail.com > Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2004 1:00 PM > To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > > How do I treat white fly on a basil plant? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu -----Original Message----- From: F. Duane Marcum [mailto:fduanem@msn.com] Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2004 10:16 AM To: mhills@seedsolutions.com Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Request - speaker raised bed gardening I have a basil plant left over from last year. It looks very alive and continues to bloom but the leaves are very small and not too usable. Should I get rid of it and get a new one or can the old one be revived? ----- Original Message ----- From: Mike Hills To: mhills@seedsolutions.com ; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Cc: 'Mike McNatt' Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2004 5:15 PM Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] Request - speaker raised bed gardening Oooops All - thank you for those who pointed out my error. Here I am the President of the group and I typed in the wrong website. For anyone interested in our Arizona Herb Association, it is correctly www.azherb.org We have our first meeting of 2004 this Thursday January 8th, at 7pm in the Ocotillo Room at the Extension Office. Master Gardener and Desert Botanical Garden Horitulturalist Kirti Mathura will be speaking on native herb plants - growing and using. Please feel free to join us as our guests for this interesting presentation. Mike Hills Arizona Herb Association ------=_NextPart_000_003C_01C3D5D3.B5EAB720 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hello = Duane

Not = sure where you=20 are located, nor whether your plant is in the ground or a patio or in = your=20 house, but below is a message on basil and whiteflies that we provided = to=20 another gardener recently.   Bottom line, some basils will = make it=20 through a winter and give you a headstart on your production the = following=20 season.    If your plant seems to be healthy otherwise, I = would=20 leave it in the ground until all frost danger is past - you can even = cover it=20 with frostcloth or a towel on coldest nights to give it a better=20 chance.   With warm temperatures, and when you start seeing = some new=20 growth from buds lower down, then cut the frosted and old parts back to = the new=20 emerging buds, add some compost to the surface and water = well.  =20 The plant should start growing fast, which will put you ahead of waiting = until=20 new transplants are available in the nurseries later in the = Spring.  =20 I do this with my own basil plants, and the Sweet Green and African Blue = varieties usually make a nice comeback for at least the first couple of=20 years.

 

One = other note -=20 you comment on small and few leaves on your existing basil = plant.  =20 This is normal during the winter, and also a response to low fertilizr=20 levels.    To keep the production up in the=20 warm weather growing season, or in a warm winter greenhouse it = is=20 necessary to make sure that basil has plenty of water and fertilizer for = the=20 best growth and production.    If it is exposed to = cold,=20 then DO NOT add any fertilizer until warm temperatures = return.   =20

 

Mike=20 Hills

Master Gardener=20 Volunteer, Maricopa County

Arizona Herb=20 Association

www.azherb.org

 

----- Original Message = -----

From: "Mike Hills"=20 <mhills@seedsolutions.com>

To: <taiseyh@hotmail.com>;=20 <arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu>

Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2004 5:57 = PM

Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] Basil -=20 Whitefly

 

> Hello -

>

> Is your basil plant in the = ground, a patio=20 pot or in a greenhouse and are

> you here in Arizona? Could make a = difference=20 in the recommendations for

> white fly control on a food crop = like this.=20 If your plant is out in the

> garden and exposed, you may just = want to pull=20 and discard it and start

with

> a new transplant after warmer = temperatures=20 return - you will not miss much

> production during the next few = months due to=20 the cold.

>

> Most people in Arizona would not = be facing=20 this problem, as our garden

basil

> plants have frozen dead, due to = the recent=20 colder spells. But a few

> varieties such as 'Sweet Green' = and 'African=20 Blue' are much hardier, may

> still have some green leaves = lower down, and=20 may recover and regrow from

the

> crown or lower stems after things = warm up=20 this Spring. Most other basil

> varieties are only weakly = perennial in the=20 garden and rarely survive even

a

> mild winter (lemon, cinnamon, = spicy globe,=20 etc.). And the cold weather

> usually kills the adult white = flies and some=20 of the immatures, unless they

> are protected in a greenhouse, = enclosed patio=20 or sunroom.

>

> Most of the commercial products = to control=20 white flies can be toxic and

are

> not recommended on edible leaf = garden produce=20 such as basil. Organic

home

> gardeners will often use other = methods, some=20 as simple as just using a

hard

> spray of water on the underside = of the leaves=20 to dislodge the immature

white

> fly larvae. Other companies sell = "sticky=20 traps" and other items to trap

> and kill the flying = adults.

>

> Here is the link to an = information sheet with=20 more details, plus some

spray

> suggestions that may be worth = trying. As=20 recommended here, please try

this

> only on 1 plant or part of the = plant at first=20 and wait 24 hours to see if

> there is any damage, before = spraying=20 everything. You will also have to

> wash any basil harvest well = afterwards, in=20 order to remove any of this

> residual spary, but it is not = toxic. This=20 webpage also has links to more

> detailed and commercial = information on=20 whitefly life cycles, large scale

> control, etc.

>

>=20 http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/whitefly.htm

>

> You may also want to attend our = herb=20 association monthly meeting on

Thursday

> January 8th as a guest. 7 pm in = the Ocotillo=20 Room at Maricopa County

> Extension offices - 4341 East = Broadway Road -=20 Phoenix, AZ 85040. Our

> speaker at this meeting manages = the herb and=20 vegetable demonstration

garden

> at the Desert Botanical Garden in = Phoenix.=20 She or any number of our

> members can also help with your = questions at=20 the meeting.

>

> Mike Hills

> Arizona Herb = Association

> Phoenix, Arizona

> www.azherb.org

>

>

> -----Original = Message-----

> From:=20 arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu

> = [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On=20 Behalf Of

> taiseyh@hotmail.com

> Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2004 = 1:00=20 PM

> To: = arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu

> Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question = from=20 Home-Hort WWW page

>

>

> How do I treat white fly on a = basil=20 plant?

>

>=20 _______________________________________________

> Arid_gardener mailing = list

> = Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu

>=20 http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener

>

>=20 _______________________________________________

> Arid_gardener mailing = list

> = Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu

-----Original Message-----
From: F. Duane Marcum=20 [mailto:fduanem@msn.com]
Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2004 10:16 = AM
To:=20 mhills@seedsolutions.com
Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Request - = speaker=20 raised bed gardening

I have a basil plant left over from last year.  It looks = very alive=20 and continues to bloom but the leaves are very small and not too = usable. =20 Should I get rid of it and get a new one or can the old one be = revived? =20
 
 
 
 
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Hills
To: mhills@seedsolutions.com ; = arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= =20
Cc: 'Mike McNatt'
Sent: Tuesday, January 06, = 2004 5:15=20 PM
Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] = Request -=20 speaker raised bed gardening

Oooops All - thank you for those who pointed out my=20 error.

Here I am the President of the group and I typed in = the wrong=20 website.

For anyone interested in our Arizona Herb = Association, it is=20 correctly

www.azherb.org


We have = our first=20 meeting of 2004 this Thursday January 8th, at 7pm in the
Ocotillo = Room at=20 the Extension Office.   Master Gardener and = Desert
Botanical=20 Garden Horitulturalist Kirti Mathura will be speaking on = native
herb=20 plants - growing and using.   Please feel free to join us = as our=20 guests
for this interesting presentation.


Mike=20 Hills
Arizona Herb=20 Association


------=_NextPart_000_003C_01C3D5D3.B5EAB720-- From tera@terasgarden.com Thu Jan 8 15:08:05 2004 From: tera@terasgarden.com (Tera's Garden) Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 08:08:05 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bare Root Roses Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20040108080752.00ab5be0@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_641625==_ Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Bare Root Rose Season Bare Root Roses from Meilland Star Roses have arrived! Our selection of roses is composed of ones that I like. They are, for the most part fragrant, easy care or both (Although I chose Guy De Maupassant because I am a fan of his writing). Bare roots run from $10.99 - $13.99 and potted trees run from $28.99 for 24" tall trees, to $58.99 for 60" tall trees. The following is a partial list. Please come in to see the full assortment. New Introductions for 2004: Honey Perfume: 2004 AARS winner with apricot yellow blooms that have a sweet-spicy scent from spring through autumn Memorial Day: 2004 AARS winner with old fashioned pink blossoms and a strong classic rose scent. Betty White: Has the fragrance, soft pink-apricot color, and shape of a true antique rose. Ideal for cutting and disease resistant. Bronze Star: Deep apricot hybrid tea. World War II Memorial: Hybrid tea with distinctive white, gray and lavender coloring. Preference: Free flowering floribunda with a deep red bloom that won't fade in the heat. Proven Favorites: Gina Lollobrigida: A hybrid tea rose with a deep, deep yellow color and a slight fragrance. It blooms all summer long and looks like an antique rose with a 120 petal count. Sunsprite: A miniature yellow rose trained into a 36" tall tree. Iceberg: A white climbing rose trained into a 24" tall weeping rose tree. Don Juan Climbing: A classic red rose with a climbing habit. Polka Climbing: A heat loving peach rose with a climbing habit and an old fashioned look. Comtesse de Provence: Coral pink, quatrered blooms, strongly scented of ripe apricots. Peter Mayle: Extremely vigorous Romantica with fragrant, long lasting pink blooms. Guy de Maupassant: Pink, old fashioned blooms with apple fragrance. Gertrude Jekyll: Large pink rosettes with a damask rose fragrance. Tamora: Compact David Austin rose with apricot blooms and a myrrh fragrance. Graham Thomas: David Austin rose with deep yellow, cup-shaped blooms and tea-rose fragrance. Prospero: David Austin rose in deep red with a mum shape. Gruss an Achen: Small antique rose with pale pink blooms. Marmalade Skies: Compact, ever-blooming floribunda with tangerine orange blooms. If you have never done bare root roses before, they are a nice alternative to canned roses as they are less expensive and offer a better selection. It is also easier to see the overall structure of a rose when it is leafless, and therefore make a better selection. We can offer instructions to guarantee success for first time planters. Now is not just a good time to plant bare root roses, but soon to arrive (February 1st) are the pips for the Lily of the Valley. These short-lived plants are grown indoors to flood your home with a springtime fragrance. We also have some potted early spring bulbs (alliums, camassias, irises etc.) that have started to come up. It is not too late to get some of your spring bulbs in, but we potted up some of our more unusual choices to demonstrate how they grow. Bare root roses have not been our only delivery in the new year, a new shipment of fountains have arrived from Stonesmith Garden Vessels and we have a new selection of iron work from local artisan Kevin Hummelgard with Garden Iron Designs. Please stop in soon to see all of our new offerings. -Tera Tera's Garden 606 n. 4th Ave. Phoenix, AZ 85003 (602) 253-4744 Hours: Tues - Fri: 10AM - 6PM Sat: 9AM - 5PM Sun: 10AM - 5PM Closed Mondays --=====================_641625==_ Content-Type: application/mac-binhex40; name="Bare Root Roses1" Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="Bare Root Roses1" (This file must be converted with BinHex 4.0) :%%*KFQ8J8Qp[G#"5Eh0PFc%!3NP13@eNEh-!!!!!!Vm!!!!!qd4iRciL$!)""T! !#!!%!!!!!!!"!!%!!3H3!!B!#!!!!13%!!!!!!!!k!!"#)!(!"J!!!"*8%dZ6@P MFQpcEfCd)%eKD@`Z6QpdC3!a#!%,J!%!)3!!!$P&-6Bc-N)h0MG&1$G%0$*#36& %0M8d38%i-cJj-cP"!$!(!3f!"!!#!!!!!J!#!!%%N!!'!#`"!!!"!!!!$3!!!!- !!$!#!!!!#`!2$J!!!!!#!Im2!3!!!%N!!!!!!!!!J5XIT,kM%"QGEJ$G!3p8!J! !!!"MEQpjCA0!B@FZBA*THQpZB5jPC(8!8de88!"MEQpjCA0!B@FZBA*THQpZB5j PC(8!!!!!(J!#-!%!!!!&!!!!8de88!!!!!!H!!-`!3!!!"B!!!"MEQpjCA0!B@F ZBA*THQpZB5jPC(8!!!!$!"8-!3!!!!-!rJm'!!!!(J!"-!%!!!!B!!!!*f0ZEhP PFd"KCbjKFQPkEfjK,Q9NG5F!!J%,-!%!!!!E!!!!8de88$T$6NpC490!38FZ39* *@Np135j&4&8!!!-!!$N!!!!!#`"!1J%!!!!$!(%k!!!!!!)"pJm"!!!!"!!!!!! !!!)H0`%%J!%!%!!!!%*KFQ8J8Qp[G#"5Eh0PF`"U"3%&J!-!$J!!!03(!3!(!"- !!`!C!!-!&3%"))!$!!i!!!$8"`%!"`!6!!-!'3!$!"8"!3Q!!3!K!!!!188a0M- b3MFf0d8i0d3d-N*"-83f064"36Jc1$Nc18%!-!F"!j!!"J#!!!!!#!!!!!-!*J! !!!!!3!!j!,!#TTQ,eF-"(J!H$!%!!!!&!!!!8de88!!!!!!H!"m-!3!!!"8!!!" dCA*K3(4PFQ&cCf&bC'9Z,Q0[E3!!!!"!!!F`X!+QQB[9``&!!!J`X!+QQB[9``% H!$d!!3!!!!%!!!!!!!!!!`!002dh!!#('D#q!!!!: --=====================_641625==_-- From marc20031@cox.net Fri Jan 9 00:21:01 2004 From: marc20031@cox.net (marc20031@cox.net) Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 17:21:01 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401090021.i090L1tg025632@Ag.arizona.edu> My mother in Mesa is having a hard time figuring out why her trees are having problems regarding the roots. We just planted pepper trees last year and they were fine until the plant just died. She checked the roots and there's alot of mildew. How do you get rid of the mildew. It's killing certain plants. I advised to her using fertilizer but she does not agree. What is the secret? THank you for your time. Marc From sylviac@ispwest.com Thu Jan 8 22:59:37 2004 From: sylviac@ispwest.com (sylvia crawford) Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 15:59:37 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fiscus tree Message-ID: <3FFDE0D8.4072069F@ispwest.com> Master Gardener, I have a ficus tree that is about 12 feet tall and the top 1 1/2 feet the leaves are brown. The rest is green and looks good. Should I have the brown section cut off? This tree is about 10 years old and is in good shape otherwise. Thank you, Sylvia Crawford From mhills@seedsolutions.com Fri Jan 9 18:04:09 2004 From: mhills@seedsolutions.com (Mike Hills) Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 11:04:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Powdery Mildew Message-ID: <000801c3d6da$fc02ea90$0500a8c0@RSIOAQ3YCFIW63> Gladys - thank you for attending our herb meeting last night - we hope to see you and Phillip again. Here is some information on the Powdery Mildew you were asking about on your roses. You can also get some expert rose advice at the Home and Garden Show taking place today through Sunday at the Fairgrounds in downtown Phoenix. Several local rose gardening clubs will be displaying and answering questions in the gardening area at the show. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/pdr-mldw.htm Usually in this area, Powdery Mildew is only an occasional problem. If the problem persists and is worse on specific bushes, you may want to remove the susceptible roses and plant new roses of a variety that is resistant to the disease - local rose experts can provide lists of recommended varieties. This is a perfect time to plant new rose bushes. The rose gardening clubs on the website below, can also give you helpful information on care, and invite you to their next meeting where you can ask more detailed questions. http://cals.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/clubs.htm Hope this is helpful, Mike Hills Master Gardener Volunteer, Maricopa County Arizona Herb Association www.azherb.org From Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com Fri Jan 9 19:31:44 2004 From: Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com (Zelhart Alan-rpcs30) Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 12:31:44 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fiscus tree Message-ID: <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B99307088943C6@az33exm25.corp.mot.com> Sylvia, yes, you can have the dead stuff cut off, but wait until around mid February when all chances of frost are past. Then you will see where new leaves are coming out, and where the dead wood really as so that you will be able to have it cut back properly. Also, the dead leaves will help protect the rest of the tree from further frost damage. -- Chat with you later, Alan -- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ----- Alan Zelhart gizmoaz@cox.net Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- ***** Make up a language and ask people for directions. -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu] On Behalf Of sylvia crawford Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2004 4:00 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fiscus tree Master Gardener, I have a ficus tree that is about 12 feet tall and the top 1 1/2 feet the leaves are brown. The rest is green and looks good. Should I have the brown section cut off? This tree is about 10 years old and is in good shape otherwise. Thank you, Sylvia Crawford _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From mconner@Ag.arizona.edu Fri Jan 9 20:50:05 2004 From: mconner@Ag.arizona.edu (Mary Conner) Date: Fri, 09 Jan 2004 13:50:05 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] 50 Citrus Trees Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20040109133535.01edf3f0@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_17375164==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Please reply to: "HEPPLER, DIANNE" >From: "HEPPLER, DIANNE" >To: "'mconner@cals.arizona.edu'" >Subject: >Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 11:58:05 -0600 > >Garden Guy, > >I have about 50 citrus trees and I have noticed this year that one of the >tangerine trees started to die. It hung on for awhile still producing >fruit but very little leaves. The only thing on the outside that was >unusual was at the base of the trunk it cracked a little and had black >stuff oozing from it. Green sprouts came out above the crack and >fruit. We sealed the crack but the tree continued to not have green >leaves. Some of the other trees are not doing as well but they look a >little different. We did have some old cottonwood trees on the next yard >over that are slowly dying off either from old age or a disease not >sure. My question is what do you think is killing the tree and do you >think it has anything to do with the cottonwoods? We have since cut the >tree down to the groung level. Do I need to take out the whole root if I >try to plant another tree near this spot? We do not want to plant anymore >fruit trees and were thinking of a cottonwood. Someone suggested to us >that it might be nematoeds? (unsure about spelling) IF so, is there >anyway to get rid of this so not to spread? We use irrigation to water the >yard and trees. Also, What is a good disease fighting tree that I can plant? > >Dianne --=====================_17375164==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Please reply to:  "HEPPLER, DIANNE" <DIANNE.HEPPLER@acs-inc.com>


From: "HEPPLER, DIANNE" <DIANNE.HEPPLER@acs-inc.com>
To: "'mconner@cals.arizona.edu'" <mconner@cals.arizona.edu>
Subject:
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2004 11:58:05 -0600

Garden Guy,
 
I have about 50 citrus trees and I have notice= d this year that one of the tangerine trees started to die.  It hung on for awhile still producing fruit but very little leaves.  The only thing on the outside that was unusual was at the base of the trunk it cracked a little and had black stuff oozing from it.  Green sprouts came out above  the crack and fruit.  We sealed the crack but the tree continued to not have green leaves.  Some of the other trees are not doing as well but they look a little different.  We did have some old cottonwood trees on the next yard over that are slowly dying off either from old age or a disease not sure.  My question is what do you think is killing the tree and do you think it has anything to do with the cottonwoods?  We have since cut the tree down to the groung level.  Do I need to take out the whole root if I try to plant another tree near this spot?  We do not want to plant anymore fruit trees and were thinking of a cottonwood.  Someone suggested to us that it might be nematoeds?  (unsure about spelling)  IF so, is there anyway to get rid of this so not to spread? We use irrigation to water the yard and trees. Also,  What is a good disease fighting tree that I can plant?
 
Dianne
--=====================_17375164==_.ALT-- From donna_fr@yahoo.com Fri Jan 9 23:10:48 2004 From: donna_fr@yahoo.com (donna_fr@yahoo.com) Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 16:10:48 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401092310.i09NAmtg023857@Ag.arizona.edu> I have some 4-5-6 foot tall, 25-year old sea green juniper bushes. My lawn guy cut them into giant bonsai shapes and now the bottoms are bare and scraggly looking. However, I must admit that it is a strangely interesting look. What can I plant under these junipers that will stay short and enhance the look? Something that takes little trimming and can take abuse from my creative lawn guy would be nice. And, when should I plant whatever it is? I am located near 48th ST and Southern in Phoenix. Please keep in mind my low skill level (but kind heart). Thank you for any ideas or advice you may have. - donna From pblee@cox.net Sat Jan 10 14:16:57 2004 From: pblee@cox.net (pblee@cox.net) Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 07:16:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401101416.i0AEGvtg014622@Ag.arizona.edu> where can i find chokecherries in az. From western49@msn.com Sat Jan 10 16:40:50 2004 From: western49@msn.com (western49@msn.com) Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 09:40:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401101640.i0AGeotg023531@Ag.arizona.edu> our bougainvilleas look dead can anything be done to them? From rodmcq6@highstream.net Sun Jan 11 19:51:13 2004 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 12:51:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: frost damaged hibiscus rosa-sinensis References: Message-ID: <004a01c3d87c$5e8ab9c0$d2a9db43@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0047_01C3D841.981B36A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable J Wait until new growth starts in the spring to do any pruning on your = frost damaged hibiscus. At that time you will be able to determine how = extensive is the freeze damage and know where to prune. Continue normal winter time watering but with hold fertilizing until the new growth starts. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Matthew HOLLIBUSH=20 To: rodmcq6@highstream.net=20 Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2004 7:11 PM Subject: frost damaged hibiscus rosa-sinensis My hibiscus has been frost damaged. I think it will survive but I = need to know what to do to the damaged foliage. Should I wait until = spring to prune or should I prune now in the winter? Some leaves are = still green but many of the top leaves have been affected. I just need = to know how to maintain it now. Thank you in advance for the reply. J. Valdes ------=_NextPart_000_0047_01C3D841.981B36A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
J
Wait until new growth starts in the = spring to do=20 any pruning on your frost damaged hibiscus. At that time you will be = able to=20 determine how extensive is the freeze damage and know where to=20 prune.
Continue normal winter time = watering
but with hold fertilizing until the new = growth=20 starts.
 
Good luck.
 
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
 
 ----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Matthew=20 HOLLIBUSH
Sent: Saturday, January 10, = 2004 7:11=20 PM
Subject: frost damaged hibiscus = rosa-sinensis

My hibiscus has been frost damaged.  I think it will survive = but I=20 need to know what to do to the damaged foliage.  Should I wait = until=20 spring to prune or should I prune now in the winter?  Some leaves = are=20 still green but many of the top leaves have been affected.  I = just need=20 to know how to maintain it now.  Thank you in advance for the=20 reply.
 
J. Valdes

------=_NextPart_000_0047_01C3D841.981B36A0-- From bandgwatson@worldnet.att.net Sun Jan 11 00:14:30 2004 From: bandgwatson@worldnet.att.net (Bonnie & Gregg Watson) Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 17:14:30 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Christmas Cactus Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20040110171403.046fb520@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_11555836==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed An ear (?) of my cactus broke off and I am wondering if it can be rooted and, if so , how? "Bonnie & Gregg Watson" --=====================_11555836==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" An ear (?) of my cactus broke off and I am wondering if it can be rooted and, if so , how?

"Bonnie & Gregg Watson" <bandgwatson@worldnet.att.net> --=====================_11555836==_.ALT-- From LBradley@cals.arizona.edu Sat Jan 10 23:59:19 2004 From: LBradley@cals.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 16:59:19 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Desert Gardening Institute Schedule Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20040110165639.046ee238@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_11555786==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed The 2004 Desert Gardening Institute Schedule is now available on Line. 19 Classes offered by Master Gardeners at the Cooperative Extension Office. For more information on Topics and Dates see the website below. http://cals.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/calendar/PublicClasses2004.pdf ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: LBradley@cals.arizona.edu http://cals.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ http://cals.arizona.edu/youthgardens Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert. "The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona." ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ --=====================_11555786==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" The 2004 Desert Gardening Institute Schedule is now available on Line.

19 Classes offered by Master Gardeners at the Cooperative Extension Office.

For more information on Topics and Dates see the website below.

http://cals.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/calendar/PublicClasses2004.pdf

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ  85040-8807

Phone:  (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax:  (602) 470-8092
email:  LBradley@cals.arizona.edu
http://cals.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/
http://cals.arizona.edu/youthgardens

Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program
To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert.

"The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona."
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


--=====================_11555786==_.ALT-- From summerstar@earthlink.net Sat Jan 10 20:59:26 2004 From: summerstar@earthlink.net (summerstar@earthlink.net) Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 13:59:26 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401102059.i0AKxQtg013163@Ag.arizona.edu> Requesting information: I live in Cave Creek and several of my landscape plants have heavy frost damage (lantana, yellow dot, hybiscus and bougainvillea) as well as my vegetables (tomatoes, peppers, eggplant). My question is when to prune them? I read that waiting until you see signs of new growth is recommended for fruit trees. Is this true for the plants I listed or is there a different method for plants, and if so what is it? I would appreciate some advice from those of you more experienced than I. Thanks, Mary From samdeny@juno.com Sun Jan 11 06:01:50 2004 From: samdeny@juno.com (by way of Lucy Bradley ) Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 23:01:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] droop Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20040110230119.01ffee30@ag.arizona.edu> At the end of summer I added some sages to my garden they dont look very happy right now. They look like they need some fertilizer. When can I safely fertilize them? Help! SS samdeny@juno.com From oooohflowers@cox.net Mon Jan 12 15:54:46 2004 From: oooohflowers@cox.net (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 08:54:46 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] RE: Frost Damage in Cave Creek In-Reply-To: <200401102059.i0AKxQtg013163@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Hi Mary; You are not alone with your frost-damaged landscape. I left town for the holidays and came back to much death and destruction in my garden. Fortunately, there's lots of information out there addressing this very problem. The Arizona Republic ran a very good article last week, find it on the web at http://www.azcentral.com/arizonarepublic/arizonaliving/articles/0107frost07. html Also, the UofA Cooperative Extension has an excellent publication that tells us how to prevent frost damage and how to handle it once the damage has occurred [chocolate helped me handle it ;)]. Find this pub at http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1002.pdf It's possible that you will have to replace your veggies next spring. Although we can sometimes get several years' production from a pepper, we really can't depend on it. Again, resources abound to help us decide when to plant our veggies. Find the extension's publication on this subject at http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1005.pdf Good luck! Kelly From mhills@seedsolutions.com Mon Jan 12 16:36:39 2004 From: mhills@seedsolutions.com (Mike Hills) Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 09:36:39 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] droop - sages In-Reply-To: <5.1.0.14.2.20040110230119.01ffee30@ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <002301c3d92a$41916f90$0500a8c0@RSIOAQ3YCFIW63> Please advise which "sages" you have planted - if you know the scientific name or even the common name from the label, it will really help. Some are frost sensitive, others need varying amounts of water, and other details can change based on exactly which "sage" you planted. There are even some plants called sage i ntheir common name which are not true sages. Also, please advise how you are currently watering these plants - by hand, drip irrigation, or? How often, how much and how long watering? At this pint do not fertilize, as that may make the problem worse and there are not many plants that need fertilizer in the winter. Mike Hills Master Gardener Volunteer, Maricopa County Arizona Herb Association ----------------------------------------- -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of by way of Lucy Bradley Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2004 11:02 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] droop At the end of summer I added some sages to my garden they dont look very happy right now. They look like they need some fertilizer. When can I safely fertilize them? Help! SS samdeny@juno.com _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From oooohflowers@cox.net Mon Jan 12 16:07:54 2004 From: oooohflowers@cox.net (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 09:07:54 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Christmas Cactus In-Reply-To: <5.1.0.14.2.20040110171403.046fb520@ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C3D8EB.907A6380 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello Bonnie and Gregg; Many cacti are fairly easily rooted from a piece that breaks off. In fact, the prickly pears and chollas "use" that a strategy for cloning themselves. If you've ever had the experience of getting a cholla bur stuck in your boot, you have been an unwitting character in the reproductive cycle of that plant. Don't get me started... Anyway, it should be easy to get it rooted, but be patient because it might take some time. First, give the "ear" or "pad" or "joint" or whatever you want to call it a few days to scab over. Christmas cacti need more water than a cholla or prickly pear, so I'd give it just a few days to seal. If you try to plant it with any gooey surfaces it will likely rot before it takes root. After it is scabbed over, plant it bottom-down in a well drained cactus mix. Equal parts potting soil and clean sand is good. How much and how often to water is subject to some debate, but I would recommend wetting the soil at planting time and forgetting about it for a couple of weeks. It's better to err on the side of "too dry" rather than "too wet". Put it in a sunny windowsill and hope for the best. Good luck! Kelly ------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C3D8EB.907A6380 Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hello=20 Bonnie and Gregg;
 
Many=20 cacti are fairly easily rooted from a piece that breaks off.  In = fact, the=20 prickly pears and chollas "use" that a strategy for cloning = themselves.  If=20 you've ever had the experience of getting a cholla bur stuck in your = boot, you=20 have been an unwitting character in the reproductive cycle of that = plant. =20 Don't get me started...
 
Anyway, it should be easy to get it rooted, but be patient = because it=20 might take some time.  First, give the "ear" or "pad" or "joint" or = whatever you want to call it a few days to scab over. Christmas cacti = need more=20 water than a cholla or prickly pear, so I'd give it just a few days to = seal. If=20 you try to plant it with any gooey surfaces it will likely rot before it = takes=20 root.  After it is scabbed over, plant it bottom-down in a well = drained=20 cactus mix.  Equal parts potting soil and clean sand is good.  = How=20 much and how often to water is subject to some debate, but I would = recommend=20 wetting the soil at planting time and forgetting about it for a couple = of=20 weeks.  It's better to err on the side of "too dry" rather than = "too=20 wet".  Put it in a sunny windowsill and hope for the best. =20
 
Good=20 luck!
 
Kelly
 
 
 
 
------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C3D8EB.907A6380-- From tuketapr@aol.com Tue Jan 13 02:39:10 2004 From: tuketapr@aol.com (tuketapr@aol.com) Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 19:39:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401130239.i0D2dAtg013344@Ag.arizona.edu> What type of orange trees do well in Phoenix? When is the best time to plant them? Thanks in advance for your help. From mhills@seedsolutions.com Mon Jan 12 18:25:29 2004 From: mhills@seedsolutions.com (Mike Hills) Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 11:25:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Christmas Cactus In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <003401c3d939$7629a5b0$0500a8c0@RSIOAQ3YCFIW63> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0035_01C3D8FE.C9CACDB0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bonnie and Greg Here are links to some articles with some university horticulture departments - these additional details are specifically on the Christmas Cactus and its preferred after-holiday care, plus how to get it to re-bloom the best next fall. Kelly gave you good advice on the rooting of the cuttings, and this one is actually fairly easy to root new plants from your mother plant. Since this is usually grown as a houseplant, most of the care suggestions from other states will also apply here in the Desert Southwest. These cacti do come from rainforest areas, so sometimes a little extra humidity is helpful in our dry climate. http://www.hort.purdue.edu/ext/christmas_cactus.html http://ianrpubs.unl.edu/Horticulture/g187.htm#xmas http://wwwagcomm.ads.orst.edu/agcomwebfile/garden/Holiday/cactus.html Mike Hills Master Gardener Volunteer, Maricopa County -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Ooooh Flowers! Sent: Monday, January 12, 2004 9:08 AM To: Bonnie & Gregg Watson (by way of Lucy Bradley ); arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] Christmas Cactus Hello Bonnie and Gregg; Many cacti are fairly easily rooted from a piece that breaks off. In fact, the prickly pears and chollas "use" that a strategy for cloning themselves. If you've ever had the experience of getting a cholla bur stuck in your boot, you have been an unwitting character in the reproductive cycle of that plant. Don't get me started... Anyway, it should be easy to get it rooted, but be patient because it might take some time. First, give the "ear" or "pad" or "joint" or whatever you want to call it a few days to scab over. Christmas cacti need more water than a cholla or prickly pear, so I'd give it just a few days to seal. If you try to plant it with any gooey surfaces it will likely rot before it takes root. After it is scabbed over, plant it bottom-down in a well drained cactus mix. Equal parts potting soil and clean sand is good. How much and how often to water is subject to some debate, but I would recommend wetting the soil at planting time and forgetting about it for a couple of weeks. It's better to err on the side of "too dry" rather than "too wet". Put it in a sunny windowsill and hope for the best. Good luck! Kelly ------=_NextPart_000_0035_01C3D8FE.C9CACDB0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Bonnie=20 and Greg       
 
Here=20 are links to some articles with some university horticulture = departments -=20 these additional details are specifically on the Christmas Cactus and = its=20 preferred after-holiday care, plus how to get it to re-bloom the best = next=20 fall.   Kelly gave you good advice on the rooting of the = cuttings, and=20 this one is actually fairly easy to root new plants from your mother=20 plant.   Since this is usually grown as a houseplant, most of = the care=20 suggestions from other states will also apply here in the Desert=20 Southwest.   These cacti do come from rainforest areas, so = sometimes a=20 little extra humidity is helpful in our dry = climate. 
 
http://www.= hort.purdue.edu/ext/christmas_cactus.html
 
http://ianrpu= bs.unl.edu/Horticulture/g187.htm#xmas
 
http://wwwagcomm.ads.orst.edu/agcomwebfile/garden/Holiday/cactus.ht= ml
 
Mike=20 Hills
Master=20 Gardener Volunteer, Maricopa County
 
 
 
   
-----Original Message-----
From:=20 arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu=20 [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Ooooh=20 Flowers!
Sent: Monday, January 12, 2004 9:08 = AM
To: Bonnie=20 & Gregg Watson (by way of Lucy Bradley = <LBradley@cals.arizona.edu>);=20 arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] = Christmas=20 Cactus

Hello Bonnie and Gregg;
 
Many=20 cacti are fairly easily rooted from a piece that breaks off.  In = fact,=20 the prickly pears and chollas "use" that a strategy for cloning=20 themselves.  If you've ever had the experience of getting a = cholla bur=20 stuck in your boot, you have been an unwitting character in the = reproductive=20 cycle of that plant.  Don't get me started...
 
Anyway, it should be easy to get it rooted, but be patient = because it=20 might take some time.  First, give the "ear" or "pad" or "joint" = or=20 whatever you want to call it a few days to scab over. Christmas cacti = need=20 more water than a cholla or prickly pear, so I'd give it just a few = days to=20 seal. If you try to plant it with any gooey surfaces it will likely = rot before=20 it takes root.  After it is scabbed over, plant it bottom-down in = a well=20 drained cactus mix.  Equal parts potting soil and clean sand is=20 good.  How much and how often to water is subject to some debate, = but I=20 would recommend wetting the soil at planting time and forgetting about = it for=20 a couple of weeks.  It's better to err on the side of "too dry" = rather=20 than "too wet".  Put it in a sunny windowsill and hope for the=20 best. 
 
Good=20 luck!
 
Kelly
 
 
 
 
------=_NextPart_000_0035_01C3D8FE.C9CACDB0-- From franschott2@msn.com Tue Jan 13 16:28:20 2004 From: franschott2@msn.com (franschott2@msn.com) Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 09:28:20 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401131628.i0DGSKtg013634@Ag.arizona.edu> When is the best time to prune oleanders? If we prune them now (Jan.) will they bloom next summer. When is thelatest to prune so that the bloom cycle isn't squelched? Also when should we prune Texas sage so that we won't interfere with the next blooms? Thanks. Fran From gregtrishba@self-serv.net Tue Jan 13 21:10:52 2004 From: gregtrishba@self-serv.net (gregtrishba@self-serv.net) Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 14:10:52 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401132110.i0DLAqtg020626@Ag.arizona.edu> In reference to the email I have copied below from a Gila County extension office, A Sissou tree was suggested for my property. I live in Phoenix. I have had this tree suggested before but can not find anything on this tree. Can you suggest an information source for this variety ? My web searches have been unsuccessful Thanks Greg From ckjones@Ag.Arizona.Edu Mon Mar 19 17:54:21 2001 From: ckjones@Ag.Arizona.Edu (Chris Jones) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 10:54:21 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] one tree suggestion In-Reply-To: <3AB645AB.2897658@AuroraNow.org> Message-ID: <000f01c0b09d$a0d5e3e0$4401a8c0@cjones> If your site isn't too cold/shady, you may also consider African sumac and sissou, broadleaf trees that tend to be evergreen in our climate. The sissou in particular is fast growing. Christopher Jones, Extension Agent Agriculture and Natural Resources Programs The University of Arizona Gila County Cooperative Extension 1177 Monroe Street Globe, AZ 85501 From Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com Tue Jan 13 21:46:57 2004 From: Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com (Zelhart Alan-rpcs30) Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 14:46:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B9930708894600@az33exm25.corp.mot.com> Try narrowing your focus for information on this tree. There is tons of information out there. I went to google.com and pulled up several pages by typing the following "Sissou tree". Once I pulled that up, I found the scientific name for the tree "Dalbergia sissoo" and pulled up even more information. Note the quotes around the words. This forces google to look for those exact words. Reg -- Chat with you later, Alan -- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ----- Alan Zelhart gizmoaz@cox.net Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- ***** DANGER! Computer store ahead, hide wallet! -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu] On Behalf Of gregtrishba@self-serv.net Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2004 2:11 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In reference to the email I have copied below from a Gila County extension office, A Sissou tree was suggested for my property. I live in Phoenix. I have had this tree suggested before but can not find anything on this tree. Can you suggest an information source for this variety ? My web searches have been unsuccessful Thanks Greg >From ckjones@Ag.Arizona.Edu Mon Mar 19 17:54:21 2001 From: ckjones@Ag.Arizona.Edu (Chris Jones) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 10:54:21 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] one tree suggestion In-Reply-To: <3AB645AB.2897658@AuroraNow.org> Message-ID: <000f01c0b09d$a0d5e3e0$4401a8c0@cjones> If your site isn't too cold/shady, you may also consider African sumac and sissou, broadleaf trees that tend to be evergreen in our climate. The sissou in particular is fast growing. Christopher Jones, Extension Agent Agriculture and Natural Resources Programs The University of Arizona Gila County Cooperative Extension 1177 Monroe Street Globe, AZ 85501 _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From colleen freidberg Tue Jan 13 21:00:47 2004 From: colleen freidberg (colleen freidberg) Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 13:00:47 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] lilacs in Tucson Message-ID: <28001847.1074027647978.JavaMail.root@skeeter.psp.pas.earthlink.net> Can you tell me if there is a lilac species that will do well in Tucson ? If so what might be the best exposure? Thanks, Colleen From pspiegl@cox.net Wed Jan 14 03:43:56 2004 From: pspiegl@cox.net (pspiegl@cox.net) Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 20:43:56 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401140343.i0E3hutg023282@Ag.arizona.edu> Hi, We used to have bermuda grass in our back yard. We then decided to convert our back yard to desert landscaping using rock. Our back yard is entirely rock now except for two mesquite trees and a fountain between the two mesquite trees. Weeds in the back yard are not that bothersome and we can handle those. However, the biggest problem we have in our backyard is grass growing around the trees. Can you give us some ideas on how to get rid of the bermuda grass growing at the base of our trees? If we can't get rid of the grass, what is the best way to keep the grass under control? Thanks for any help you can give us. Pam From mikedarlene@att.net Wed Jan 14 02:55:51 2004 From: mikedarlene@att.net (mikedarlene@att.net) Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 19:55:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401140255.i0E2tptg015745@Ag.arizona.edu> I'm a long term (1972) Az. person. Just constructing a "hot-house". I can see that it's not going to function well(temp. exceeds 100 degs.1/12/04) All I want is Tomato's. I'm moving my seedlings outdoors. Can you recomend a varity that can survive our summer(shaded,early morn.heat?). I have had 3 1/2 year plants.(in the earth) I am trying hydroponics and have built a very inexpensive delivery systewm using "Home Depot" parts. I have the proper nutriants. From bdchamp@mindspring.com Wed Jan 14 05:16:49 2004 From: bdchamp@mindspring.com (bdchamp@mindspring.com) Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 22:16:49 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401140516.i0E5Gntg001813@Ag.arizona.edu> are there any books that describe in detail the care and maintenance, growing and watering patterns of bermuda grass. we have new comers here that think you only have to water the tops of bermuda grass and it will put out deep roots looking for water.I have to have it in print. From jaydavis1@earthlink.net Wed Jan 14 02:55:53 2004 From: jaydavis1@earthlink.net (Jim Davis) Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 19:55:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Retro landscaping? In-Reply-To: <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B9930708894600@az33exm25.corp.mot.com> References: <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B9930708894600@az33exm25.corp.mot.com> Message-ID: <4004AFB9.1030608@earthlink.net> I moved into a 1952 house recently in midtown Tucson, complete with charming rock-over-black-plastic landscaping. While slowly pulling that out, and planting a few small desert-adapted trees and shrubs, I got to wondering -- what might the original landscaping have looked like? There is a large eucalyptus (of the sewer-clogging variety...) and a gangly privet that might be original, or nearly so, but there are few hints after that. I'm sure there was a lawn once and I'm not interested in recreating that, but I thought it might be a nice touch to add a few plants that might have been used back then. Any ideas on what a typical 1950s homeowner might have planted, particularly things that are not commonly used today? From watsontl@mindspring.com Wed Jan 14 01:57:17 2004 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 18:57:17 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Christmas Cactus References: <5.1.0.14.2.20040110171403.046fb520@ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <002e01c3da41$c03230b0$5d09b83f@S0029317241> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_002B_01C3DA07.10E69900 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Make sure you use a very well drained rooting medium. I like to use a = 50/50 mix of perlite and peat moss, both of which are readily available = at garden centers. Soak it, then let the excess water darin off until = nothing more is dripping out. Stick the broken end into the mix and = put it in a spot that gets good light, but no direct sunshine. And = then be patient. It can take weeks for it to root and show signs of = growth. In the meantime, keep the potting mix moist, but not = saturated. =20 Best of luck with this. Tom ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Bonnie & Gregg Watson (by way of Lucy Bradley = )=20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2004 5:14 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Christmas Cactus An ear (?) of my cactus broke off and I am wondering if it can be = rooted and, if so , how? "Bonnie & Gregg Watson" ------=_NextPart_000_002B_01C3DA07.10E69900 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Make sure you use a very well drained = rooting=20 medium.   I like to use a 50/50 mix of perlite and peat moss, = both of=20 which are readily available at garden centers.   Soak it, then = let the=20 excess water darin off until nothing more is dripping out.   = Stick the=20 broken end into the mix and put it in a spot that gets good light, but = no direct=20 sunshine.   And then be patient.   It can take weeks = for it=20 to root and show signs of growth.   In the meantime, keep the = potting=20 mix moist, but not saturated. 
 
Best of luck with this.
 
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 )">Bonnie & Gregg Watson = (by way of=20 Lucy Bradley <LBradley@cals.arizona.edu>)
Sent: Saturday, January 10, = 2004 5:14=20 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Christmas=20 Cactus

An ear (?) of my = cactus broke=20 off and I am wondering if it can be rooted and, if so ,=20 how?

"Bonnie & Gregg Watson" <bandgwatson@worldnet.att.net= >=20 ------=_NextPart_000_002B_01C3DA07.10E69900-- From mhills@seedsolutions.com Tue Jan 13 23:38:41 2004 From: mhills@seedsolutions.com (Mike Hills) Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 16:38:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] lilacs in Tucson In-Reply-To: <28001847.1074027647978.JavaMail.root@skeeter.psp.pas.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <008601c3da2e$61494b50$0500a8c0@RSIOAQ3YCFIW63> Colleen There is a relatively new Lilac variety developed in California by Descanso Gardens & Huntington Botanicla Gardens. This is a variety that does bloom better in the Low Desert with our low chilling hours. This variety is starting to be available at some of our Phoneix area nurseries such as Bakers who will have them in stock in late January or in February as bare root plants. You should be able to check with your local Tucson garden centers and ask them for this by name. You want to be sure that the Lilac they have is a "low chill requirement" variety, rather than the old fashioned traditional varieties. Perhaps mention the name Descanso and see if that matches what they will have in stock. I plan to buy one this Spring from Bakers as soon as his are in stock. You may also want to check with your local Tucson Botanical Garden and see if they have any firsthand knowledge in their plantings of which works better. As a kid in Tucson, we had an old fashioned, eastern type of Lilac and it did bloom each year - just not very many blooms since the winters are not quite cold enough for this. In the higher elevations or foothills around Tucson it is cooler in the winter, so even the traditional varieties will bloom decent. Good Luck, Mike Hills -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of colleen freidberg Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2004 2:01 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] lilacs in Tucson Can you tell me if there is a lilac species that will do well in Tucson ? If so what might be the best exposure? Thanks, Colleen _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From thesollidays@cox.net Wed Jan 14 01:02:53 2004 From: thesollidays@cox.net (Susan Solliday) Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 18:02:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] RGRP Tour: Volunteers Needed at Gardens! Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0064_01C3D9FF.76ED58E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Needs some hours? Want to earn them while enjoying this beautiful weather? ...Then our Real Gardens for Real People Tour Garden Captains would love to hear from you School Garden: Stacy Pratt, 480-314-4830 or pratty@mindspring.com Palmcroft District: Gwen Mastin, 480-831-0079 or g_mastin@msn.com Willow District: Cheryl Bebbington, 602-957-7851or bebbin@aol.com North Central Phoenix: Kay Benson, 480-802-7279 or abenson929@aol.com Fran Schott, 602-840-4668 or franschott2@msn.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---- ------=_NextPart_000_0064_01C3D9FF.76ED58E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Needs some hours?  Want to earn them while enjoying this beautiful=20 weather? =20
           &nb= sp;           &nbs= p;           =20 ...Then our Real Gardens for Real People Tour Garden Captains would love = to hear=20 from you
 
       School = Garden: =20
           =20 Stacy Pratt, 480-314-4830 or pratty@mindspring.com
       Palmcroft=20 District: 
           = =20 Gwen Mastin, 480-831-0079 or g_mastin@msn.com
       Willow=20 District: 
           = =20 Cheryl Bebbington, 602-957-7851or bebbin@aol.com
       North = Central=20 Phoenix: 
           = =20 Kay Benson, 480-802-7279 or abenson929@aol.com
       &nbs= p;    Fran Schott, = 602-840-4668 or=20 franschott2@msn.com=

 

 

------=_NextPart_000_0064_01C3D9FF.76ED58E0-- From fandangooo@aol.com Wed Jan 14 16:40:17 2004 From: fandangooo@aol.com (fandangooo@aol.com) Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 09:40:17 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401141640.i0EGeHtg019922@Ag.arizona.edu> RE: Christmas Cactus I am having trouble with my christmas cactus this year. The leaves seem to be very fragile, i.e., wilting, rather than strong and upright. What causes this? From kjatjh@cableaz.com Wed Jan 14 15:54:48 2004 From: kjatjh@cableaz.com (Kathy) Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 08:54:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Food quality grass for a shaded back yard Message-ID: <000001c3dab6$bd03ed00$1c5ca8c0@VALUEDB8142DE8> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0001_01C3DA7C.10A51500 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have African spur tortoises that eat grasses. My back yard has huge established trees and consequently the grass does not get a lot of sun or for long periods of time. Can you recommend a grass that is food quality and not ornamental or genetically manipulated that will grow in a low light back yard? ------=_NextPart_000_0001_01C3DA7C.10A51500 Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I have African spur tortoises that eat grasses.  = My back yard has huge established trees and consequently the grass does not = get a lot of sun or for long periods of time.  Can you recommend a grass = that is food quality and not ornamental or genetically manipulated that will = grow in a low light back yard?

------=_NextPart_000_0001_01C3DA7C.10A51500-- From alamo@dakotacom.net Thu Jan 15 00:19:07 2004 From: alamo@dakotacom.net (Signa) Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 17:19:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Retro landscaping? In-Reply-To: <4004AFB9.1030608@earthlink.net> References: <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B9930708894600@az33exm25.corp.mot.com> <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B9930708894600@az33exm25.corp.mot.com> Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20040114114357.01f3c070@pop3.norton.antivirus> I located my ancient and tattered booklet called "Tucson Planting", put out in the late 1950s by the Tucson Nurserymen's Association for newcomers to the area. Recommended plants listed in it might be of interest to you in your thoughts of recreating a 1950's Tucson residential landscape. I think you've got a fun-sounding idea going there! Some of the plants listed are still commonly planted; others seldom are. Sometimes the ones we no longer plant as frequently have fallen into disfavor due to susceptibility to disease, special coddling needed, maintenance time required, imposition of state quarantines, "messy" growth habit, or because they became so commonplace as to become "trite". Here's the list, and I'll leave it to you to decide which ones seem "retro" and which we still commonly see. SHRUBS: Abelia grandiflora, Acanthus mollis, Acuba japonica, Aralia sieboldii, Arborvitaes "Dwarf Golden", "Baker's" and "Bonita", Arbutus Uneedo ("Strawberry Tree"), bamboos, Bottlebrushes "C. rigidus" and "C. lanceolatus", Japanese Boxwood, a couple of Cassias, Camelias japonica and sasanqua, Crape Myrtle, Cocculus, Cotoneasters "Red Clusterberry", "Silverleaf" and "Spreading", Cyperus papyrus, Euonymus japonica, Fatshedera lizei, various Asparagus Ferns, Firecracker Plant, Gardenias "veitchi", "Miniature" and "Mystery", Pineapple Guava, Chinese Holly, Hibiscus, Italian Jasmine, Junipers "Armstrong", "Hollywood", "Pfitzer" and "Tamarix", Lantanas "camara" and "Trailing", Texas Ranger, Privets "Japanese" and "Waxleaf", Persian Lilac, Bush Morning Glory (which is coming back into use since the state ban has been lifted), Myrtle, Nandina (the taller ones - dwarfs came later), Oleander, Pampas Grass, Pittosporum, Chinese Photinia, Cape Plumbago, Dwarf Pomegranate, Pyracantha, Flowering Quince, Redbud, Rose of Sharon, Rosemary, Santolina, Shrimp Plant, Teucrium, Viburnum, and Xylosma (which can be trained as a specimen shrub, a hedge, or a sizeable tree). TREES: Acacias baileyana and floribunda, Ashes "Modesto" and "Arizona", African Sumac, Bottle Brush C. viminalis, Carolina Cherry, Cedrus Deodara ("California Christmas Tree"), Cottonless Cottonwood, Citruses, Cypresses, Elms "Chinese" and "Evergreen", Eucalypti "hybrid", "polyanthemus" "rostrata" and "rudis", Fruit trees -deciduous, Loquat, Southern Magnolia, Mimosa ("Silk Tree"), Fruitless Mulberry (new plantings now illegal here), European Olive (new plantings now illegal here), Palms "Mexican Fan", "California Fan" and "Ornamental Date", Palo Verdes "Blue" and "Mexican", California Pepper Tree, Aleppo Pine, European Sycamore, Tree Type Privet, Texas Umbrella Tree, and Weeping Willow. (Note the total absence of our now common Mesquites.) VINES: Bougainvillea, Carolina Jessamine, Cape Honeysuckle "Tecoma capensis", Creeping Fig, true "Honeysuckles" Lonicera varieties, Ivies "English", "Algerian" and "Boston", Chinese Jasmine, "Star Jasmine" (which is not a true jasmine at all), Passion Vine, Queen's Wreath, three kinds of Trumpet Vine, and Wisteria chinensis. The booklet also has sections on bulbs and roses, recommended lawn types, citruses, and a listing of 42 flowering bedding plants (annuals and perennials). Signa At 07:55 PM 1/13/04 -0700, Jim Davis wrote: >I moved into a 1952 house recently in midtown Tucson, complete with >charming rock-over-black-plastic landscaping. While slowly pulling that >out, and planting a few small desert-adapted trees and shrubs, I got to >wondering -- what might the original landscaping have looked like? >There is a large eucalyptus (of the sewer-clogging variety...) and a >gangly privet that might be original, or nearly so, but there are few >hints after that. I'm sure there was a lawn once and I'm not interested >in recreating that, but I thought it might be a nice touch to add a few >plants that might have been used back then. Any ideas on what a typical >1950s homeowner might have planted, particularly things that are not >commonly used today? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Jan 15 01:27:46 2004 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 01:27:46 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Food quality grass for a shaded back yard Message-ID: Here are some websites that may help with your tortoise diet: http://www.tortoise.org/archives/sulcata1.html http://www.chelonia.org/Articles/sulcatacare.htm http://www.centralpets.com/pages/critterpages/reptiles/tortoises/TOR2589.shtml http://www.sdturtle.org/AFRICAN%20SPURRED%20TORTOISE%20CARE%20SHEET.htm I would suggest finding mixes of native grasses and wildflowers seed and planting those. Most of the turf grasses prefer lots of sun. Dichondra is a ground cover that is shade-tolerant and is recommended for our native desert tortoises. Filaree (heronbill), spurge, globemallow and dandelion are also recommended foods for the desert tortoise. Linda >From: "Kathy" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Food quality grass for a shaded back yard >Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 08:54:48 -0700 > >I have African spur tortoises that eat grasses. My back yard has huge >established trees and consequently the grass does not get a lot of sun or >for long periods of time. Can you recommend a grass that is food quality >and not ornamental or genetically manipulated that will grow in a low light >back yard? > _________________________________________________________________ Rethink your business approach for the new year with the helpful tips here. http://special.msn.com/bcentral/prep04.armx From gardenguy@gardenerscorner.com Thu Jan 15 02:26:28 2004 From: gardenguy@gardenerscorner.com (Garden Guy) Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 21:26:28 -0500 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Retro landscaping? Message-ID: I would find it very interesting to hear what roses they were recommending back then. If you don't mind sending that would be interesting. - Chat with you later... Alan ----- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ***** LIVE Garden Chat Now Available ***** ----- Alan Zelhart GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- "If I were two faced, would I wear this one?""" > I located my ancient and tattered booklet called "Tucson Planting", put out > in the late 1950s by the Tucson Nurserymen's Association for newcomers to > the area. Recommended plants listed in it might be of interest to you in > your thoughts of recreating a 1950's Tucson residential landscape. I think > you've got a fun-sounding idea going there! > > Some of the plants listed are still commonly planted; others seldom > are. Sometimes the ones we no longer plant as frequently have fallen into > disfavor due to susceptibility to disease, special coddling needed, > maintenance time required, imposition of state quarantines, "messy" growth > habit, or because they became so commonplace as to become "trite". Here's > the list, and I'll leave it to you to decide which ones seem "retro" and > which we still commonly see. > > SHRUBS: > Abelia grandiflora, Acanthus mollis, Acuba japonica, Aralia sieboldii, > Arborvitaes "Dwarf Golden", "Baker's" and "Bonita", Arbutus Uneedo > ("Strawberry Tree"), bamboos, Bottlebrushes "C. rigidus" and "C. > lanceolatus", Japanese Boxwood, a couple of Cassias, Camelias japonica and > sasanqua, Crape Myrtle, Cocculus, Cotoneasters "Red Clusterberry", > "Silverleaf" and "Spreading", Cyperus papyrus, Euonymus japonica, > Fatshedera lizei, various Asparagus Ferns, Firecracker Plant, Gardenias > "veitchi", "Miniature" and "Mystery", Pineapple Guava, Chinese Holly, > Hibiscus, Italian Jasmine, Junipers "Armstrong", "Hollywood", "Pfitzer" and > "Tamarix", Lantanas "camara" and "Trailing", Texas Ranger, Privets > "Japanese" and "Waxleaf", Persian Lilac, Bush Morning Glory (which is > coming back into use since the state ban has been lifted), Myrtle, Nandina > (the taller ones - dwarfs came later), Oleander, Pampas Grass, Pittosporum, > Chinese Photinia, Cape Plumbago, Dwarf Pomegranate, Pyracantha, Flowering > Quince, Redbud, Rose of Sharon, Rosemary, Santolina, Shrimp Plant, > Teucrium, Viburnum, and Xylosma (which can be trained as a specimen shrub, > a hedge, or a sizeable tree). > > TREES: > Acacias baileyana and floribunda, Ashes "Modesto" and "Arizona", African > Sumac, Bottle Brush C. viminalis, Carolina Cherry, Cedrus Deodara > ("California Christmas Tree"), Cottonless Cottonwood, Citruses, Cypresses, > Elms "Chinese" and "Evergreen", Eucalypti "hybrid", "polyanthemus" > "rostrata" and "rudis", Fruit trees -deciduous, Loquat, Southern Magnolia, > Mimosa ("Silk Tree"), Fruitless Mulberry (new plantings now illegal here), > European Olive (new plantings now illegal here), Palms "Mexican Fan", > "California Fan" and "Ornamental Date", Palo Verdes "Blue" and "Mexican", > California Pepper Tree, Aleppo Pine, European Sycamore, Tree Type Privet, > Texas Umbrella Tree, and Weeping Willow. (Note the total absence of our > now common Mesquites.) > > VINES: > Bougainvillea, Carolina Jessamine, Cape Honeysuckle "Tecoma capensis", > Creeping Fig, true "Honeysuckles" Lonicera varieties, Ivies "English", > "Algerian" and "Boston", Chinese Jasmine, "Star Jasmine" (which is not a > true jasmine at all), Passion Vine, Queen's Wreath, three kinds of Trumpet > Vine, and Wisteria chinensis. > > The booklet also has sections on bulbs and roses, recommended lawn types, > citruses, and a listing of 42 flowering bedding plants (annuals and > perennials). > > Signa > > At 07:55 PM 1/13/04 -0700, Jim Davis wrote: > >I moved into a 1952 house recently in midtown Tucson, complete with > >charming rock-over-black-plastic landscaping. While slowly pulling that > >out, and planting a few small desert-adapted trees and shrubs, I got to > >wondering -- what might the original landscaping have looked like? > >There is a large eucalyptus (of the sewer-clogging variety...) and a > >gangly privet that might be original, or nearly so, but there are few > >hints after that. I'm sure there was a lawn once and I'm not interested > >in recreating that, but I thought it might be a nice touch to add a few > >plants that might have been used back then. Any ideas on what a typical > >1950s homeowner might have planted, particularly things that are not > >commonly used today? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > -- From Bschubert@impactautobody.com Thu Jan 15 02:09:02 2004 From: Bschubert@impactautobody.com (Bschubert@impactautobody.com) Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 19:09:02 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401150209.i0F292tg015120@Ag.arizona.edu> We have had a problem for years with rabbits in the back yard eating flowers. I think the rabbits are finally gone as I have put up additional fencing to keep them out and have alwo sprayed a product called liquid fence. Something is still eating allysums very soon after they are planted and to some extent our pansies. We have lots of quail as we live on a preserve lot. Is it possible they are eating these flowers? Any help would be greatly appreciated. From mhills@seedsolutions.com Thu Jan 15 06:05:03 2004 From: mhills@seedsolutions.com (Mike Hills) Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 23:05:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Food quality grass for a shaded back yard In-Reply-To: <000001c3dab6$bd03ed00$1c5ca8c0@VALUEDB8142DE8> Message-ID: <00b401c3db2d$845acba0$bb4b1342@RSIOAQ3YCFIW63> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00B5_01C3DAF2.D7FBF3A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Kathy - grasses asa general rule do not grow well under trees - note the lack of grass in the forest next time you go out hiking. Grasses are sun loving plants. But, there are several turfgrass species and varieties that tolerate low light better than others. I would still recommend that you trim up or thin out the tree canopies somewhat to try and get several hours of indirect light in to help the grass convert sunlight into grass (tortoise food). First - there are very few "genetically manipulated" grass varieties currently and none have yet received official permission to be commercially released. The seeded varieties of turfgrass on the market have all been produced by traditional plant breeding methods. Sodded, non-seeded varieties have been selected from sterile hybrids that often occur naturally and then propagated by cuttings (sprigs) to release as commercial varieties. Second - most of the ornamental grasses can be eaten by animals, but must be kept grazed heavily to produce fresh, more palatable growth. You would be better looking at a turfgrass species for your situation. One other possibility would be Lemongrass, a herbal grass that grows in clumps and is very decorative, as well as edible by humans - and we have found dogs and cats even like to chew on it when given the chance. Bermudagrass is probably the most nutritious of the grass choices in our area - a very popular horse and cattle feed due to the high protein content green or as hay. And I recall reading that tortoises eat bermuda, plus bermuda is native originally to the African savannahs where your tortoises came from. The bermudas currently available by seed are not very shade tolerant. A sod producing bermuda variety marketed in Arizona as "BobSod" and developed at Mississippi State University as MS-Choice is somewhat shade tolerant and can be purchased as sod or sprigs locally from nurseries, landscapers and by checking the yellow pages for sod listings. The other sod bermudas tend to not be shade tolerant. Ryegrass and Fescue - these seeded grasses do fairly well in shaded areas, but can suffer some disease in late summer when the temperatures and humidty are both up. Also, many ryegrass and fescue turf varieties contain a natural insecticide called "endophyte" that has caused some harm to grazing livestock. Dichondra or Lippia - these are non-grass, groundcovers that act like turf and both can be eaten by grazing animals, birds, etc. although they are not as nutritious as bermudagrass - both are fairly shade tolerant. Dichondra seed can be purchased at any local garden center, or you can buy flats at nurseries and plug it into your yard and wait for it to spread and fill in. Lippia needs to be planted from flats and llugged into your area to spread by runners. Zoysiagrass (sometimes called in the USA by name of "Japanese Lawngrass", although it is native to most parts of Asia) - this turf species tolerates shade fairly well and can be planted from either seed or sod, usually available locally as well as on the internet. In Asia Zoysiagrass is eaten by all types of native and domestic animals and is considered nutritious feed value. I hope that this information gives you some ideas for your shaded areas and your tortoises. I work in the turf and forage grass industry for a "real" job, so have some background. A very detailed chapter on turfgrass choices, planting and care can be read in the Master Gardener Press book titled "Desert Landscaping for Beginners" If you want more details on choosing, planting and caring for turf - here is a paraphrased earlier message: "Yes, there is an excellent book written by local gardening experts using information from the University of Arizona. The book can be purchased in some Valley area bookstores as well as at most of the botanical garden gift shops in the State. In addition you can pick it up at the Maricopa County Extension office at 4341 East Boradway Road - Phoenix (tel 602-470-8086). The book is titled "Deadert Landscaping" and here is a weblink to further information on it. This book has a very detailed, well-written and easy to understand chapter on turf care in the Low Desert. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/mgpress/dlfb.htm In addition, some basic turf care articles are available on the web from the University of Arizona's turfgrass research center in Tucson - these may be helpful as well, but do not have the useful illustrations and charts that are in the book. http://www.ag.arizona.edu/turf/watermgmt.htm http://ag.arizona.edu/turf/tt.htm Mike Hills Master Gardener Volunteer, Maricopa County -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Kathy Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2004 8:55 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Food quality grass for a shaded back yard I have African spur tortoises that eat grasses. My back yard has huge established trees and consequently the grass does not get a lot of sun or for long periods of time. Can you recommend a grass that is food quality and not ornamental or genetically manipulated that will grow in a low light back yard? ------=_NextPart_000_00B5_01C3DAF2.D7FBF3A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Kathy=20 - grasses asa general rule do not grow well under trees - note the lack = of grass=20 in the forest next time you go out hiking.   Grasses are sun = loving=20 plants.   But, there are several turfgrass species and = varieties that=20 tolerate low light better than others.    I would still = recommend=20 that you trim up or thin out the tree canopies somewhat to try and get = several=20 hours of indirect light in to help the grass convert sunlight into grass = (tortoise food).   
 
First=20 - there are very few "genetically manipulated" grass varieties currently = and=20 none have yet received official permission to be commercially=20 released.   The seeded varieties of turfgrass on the market = have all=20 been produced by traditional plant breeding methods.    = Sodded,=20 non-seeded varieties have been selected from sterile hybrids that often = occur=20 naturally and then propagated by cuttings (sprigs) to release as = commercial=20 varieties.
 
Second=20 - most of the ornamental grasses can be eaten by animals, but must be = kept=20 grazed heavily to produce fresh, more palatable = growth.    You=20 would be better looking at a turfgrass species for your=20 situation.    One other possibility would be Lemongrass, = a herbal=20 grass that grows in clumps and is very decorative, as well as edible by = humans -=20 and we have found dogs and cats even like to chew on it when given the=20 chance.   
 
Bermudagrass is probably the most nutritious of the grass = choices in our=20 area - a very popular horse and cattle feed due to the high protein = content=20 green or as hay.  And I recall reading that tortoises eat bermuda, = plus=20 bermuda is native originally to the African savannahs where your = tortoises came=20 from.    The bermudas currently available by seed are not = very=20 shade tolerant.   A sod producing bermuda variety marketed in = Arizona=20 as "BobSod" and developed at Mississippi State University as MS-Choice = is=20 somewhat shade tolerant and can be purchased as sod or sprigs locally = from=20 nurseries, landscapers and by checking the yellow pages for sod=20 listings.    The other sod bermudas tend to not be shade=20 tolerant.
 
Ryegrass and Fescue - these seeded grasses do fairly well in = shaded=20 areas, but can suffer some disease in late summer when the temperatures = and=20 humidty are both up.   Also, many ryegrass and fescue turf = varieties=20 contain a natural insecticide called "endophyte" that has caused some = harm to=20 grazing livestock.
 
Dichondra or Lippia - these are non-grass, groundcovers that = act like=20 turf and both can be eaten by grazing animals, birds, etc. although = they=20 are not as nutritious as bermudagrass - both are fairly shade = tolerant. =20 Dichondra seed can be purchased at any local garden center, or you can = buy flats=20 at nurseries and plug it into your yard and wait for it to spread and = fill=20 in.  Lippia needs to be planted from flats and llugged into your = area to=20 spread by runners.
 
Zoysiagrass (sometimes called in the USA by name of "Japanese = Lawngrass",=20 although it is native to most parts of Asia) - this turf = species=20 tolerates shade fairly well and can be planted from either seed or sod, = usually=20 available locally as well as on the internet.    In=20 Asia Zoysiagrass is eaten by all types of native and domestic = animals and=20 is considered nutritious feed value.
 
 
I = hope that this=20 information gives you some ideas for your shaded areas and your=20 tortoises.   I work in the turf and forage grass industry for = a "real"=20 job, so have some background.    A very detailed chapter = on=20 turfgrass choices, planting and care can be read in the Master Gardener = Press=20 book titled "Desert Landscaping for = Beginners"
 
If you=20 want more details on choosing, planting and caring for turf - here is a=20 paraphrased earlier message:
"Yes, there is an excellent = book written by=20 local gardening experts using information from the University of = Arizona. The=20 book can be purchased in some Valley area bookstores as well as at most = of the=20 botanical garden gift shops in the State. In addition you can pick it up = at the=20 Maricopa County Extension office at 4341 East Boradway Road - Phoenix = (tel=20 602-470-8086). The book is titled "Deadert Landscaping" and here is a = weblink to=20 further information on it. This book has a very detailed, well-written = and easy=20 to understand chapter on turf care in the Low Desert.

http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/mgpress/dlfb.htm

In addition, some basic turf care articles are available on the web = from the=20 University of Arizona's turfgrass research center in Tucson - these may = be=20 helpful as well, but do not have the useful illustrations and charts = that are in=20 the book.

http://www.ag.arizona.edu/turf/watermgmt.htm

http://ag.arizona.edu/turf/tt.htm

 
Mike Hills
Master Gardener Volunteer, Maricopa=20 County

 
 
 
 -----Original=20 Message-----
From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu=20 [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of=20 Kathy
Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2004 8:55 = AM
To:=20 arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Food = quality=20 grass for a shaded back yard

I have African spur = tortoises that=20 eat grasses.  My back yard has huge established trees and = consequently=20 the grass does not get a lot of sun or for long periods of time.  = Can you=20 recommend a grass that is food quality and not ornamental or = genetically=20 manipulated that will grow in a low light back=20 yard?

------=_NextPart_000_00B5_01C3DAF2.D7FBF3A0-- From mhills@seedsolutions.com Thu Jan 15 06:01:06 2004 From: mhills@seedsolutions.com (Mike Hills) Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 23:01:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bermudagrass care Message-ID: <008001c3db2c$f8245340$bb4b1342@RSIOAQ3YCFIW63> Pardon my typing The book is correctly titled "Desert Landscaping for Beginners" -----Original Message----- From: Mike Hills [mailto:mhills@seedsolutions.com] Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2004 9:34 PM To: 'bdchamp@mindspring.com'; 'arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu' Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] Bermudagrass care Yes, there is an excellent book written by local gardening experts using information from the University of Arizona. The book can be purchased in some Valley area bookstores as well as at most of the botanical garden gift shops in the State. In addition you can pick it up at the Maricopa County Extension office at 4341 East Boradway Road - Phoenix (tel 602-470-8086). The book is titled "Deadert Landscaping" and here is a weblink to further information on it. This book has a very detailed, well-written and easy to understand chapter on turf care in the Low Desert. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/mgpress/dlfb.htm In addition, some basic turf care articles are available on the web from the University of Arizona's turfgrass research center in Tucson - these may be helpful as well, but do not have the useful illustrations and charts that are in the book. http://www.ag.arizona.edu/turf/watermgmt.htm http://ag.arizona.edu/turf/tt.htm Hope that this is helpful, Mike Hills Master Gardener Volunteer, Maricopa County -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of bdchamp@mindspring.com Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2004 10:17 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page are there any books that describe in detail the care and maintenance, growing and watering patterns of bermuda grass. we have new comers here that think you only have to water the tops of bermuda grass and it will put out deep roots looking for water.I have to have it in print. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From mhills@seedsolutions.com Thu Jan 15 04:38:42 2004 From: mhills@seedsolutions.com (Mike Hills) Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 21:38:42 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bermudagrass care Message-ID: <004101c3db21$74c7f110$bb4b1342@RSIOAQ3YCFIW63> P.S. - you are right in questioning the incorrect watering information you are being told. This is a mixed up version of the truth. Bermudagrass can be very drought tolerant, if it is trained from an early stage of deep, infrequent watering. The book goes into more detail, but basically the idea is to water deep and not often, and the bermuda does then have the ability to go 4-6 feet deep in its root development, subject to soil conditions, etc. Correctly watered bermuda can survive long periods of stress from heat and drought. If they water often and only lightly the bermua roots grow only near the surface where the shallow applied water is, and the grass is very weak and subject to more diseases and stress in the heat. If the water is not applied deep in the soil, the grass roots certainly can't go "look for it" - they will stay on the surface where the water is. Same goes for proper watering of trees and shrubs here - shallow and too frequent water applications and the roots stay weak and shallow. Mike Hills -----Original Message----- From: Mike Hills [mailto:mhills@seedsolutions.com] Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2004 9:34 PM To: 'bdchamp@mindspring.com'; 'arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu' Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] Bermudagrass care Yes, there is an excellent book written by local gardening experts using information from the University of Arizona. The book can be purchased in some Valley area bookstores as well as at most of the botanical garden gift shops in the State. In addition you can pick it up at the Maricopa County Extension office at 4341 East Boradway Road - Phoenix (tel 602-470-8086). The book is titled "Deadert Landscaping" and here is a weblink to further information on it. This book has a very detailed, well-written and easy to understand chapter on turf care in the Low Desert. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/mgpress/dlfb.htm In addition, some basic turf care articles are available on the web from the University of Arizona's turfgrass research center in Tucson - these may be helpful as well, but do not have the useful illustrations and charts that are in the book. http://www.ag.arizona.edu/turf/watermgmt.htm http://ag.arizona.edu/turf/tt.htm Hope that this is helpful, Mike Hills Master Gardener Volunteer, Maricopa County -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of bdchamp@mindspring.com Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2004 10:17 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page are there any books that describe in detail the care and maintenance, growing and watering patterns of bermuda grass. we have new comers here that think you only have to water the tops of bermuda grass and it will put out deep roots looking for water.I have to have it in print. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From mhills@seedsolutions.com Thu Jan 15 04:33:36 2004 From: mhills@seedsolutions.com (Mike Hills) Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 21:33:36 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bermudagrass care In-Reply-To: <200401140516.i0E5Gntg001813@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <004001c3db20$be8a58c0$bb4b1342@RSIOAQ3YCFIW63> Yes, there is an excellent book written by local gardening experts using information from the University of Arizona. The book can be purchased in some Valley area bookstores as well as at most of the botanical garden gift shops in the State. In addition you can pick it up at the Maricopa County Extension office at 4341 East Boradway Road - Phoenix (tel 602-470-8086). The book is titled "Deadert Landscaping" and here is a weblink to further information on it. This book has a very detailed, well-written and easy to understand chapter on turf care in the Low Desert. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/mgpress/dlfb.htm In addition, some basic turf care articles are available on the web from the University of Arizona's turfgrass research center in Tucson - these may be helpful as well, but do not have the useful illustrations and charts that are in the book. http://www.ag.arizona.edu/turf/watermgmt.htm http://ag.arizona.edu/turf/tt.htm Hope that this is helpful, Mike Hills Master Gardener Volunteer, Maricopa County -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of bdchamp@mindspring.com Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2004 10:17 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page are there any books that describe in detail the care and maintenance, growing and watering patterns of bermuda grass. we have new comers here that think you only have to water the tops of bermuda grass and it will put out deep roots looking for water.I have to have it in print. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Jan 15 14:22:36 2004 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 14:22:36 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Quail in garden Message-ID: Quail will eat allysum and various flowers and herbs. The most effective approach is exclusion, putting up chickenwire (or similar) enclosures around the plants that you want to protect. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Bschubert@impactautobody.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 19:09:02 -0700 (MST) > >We have had a problem for years with rabbits in the back yard eating >flowers. I think the rabbits are finally gone as I have put up additional >fencing to keep them out and have alwo sprayed a product called liquid >fence. Something is still eating allysums very soon after they are planted >and to some extent our pansies. We have lots of quail as we live on a >preserve lot. Is it possible they are eating these flowers? Any help >would be greatly appreciated. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Find high-speed ‘net deals — comparison-shop your local providers here. https://broadband.msn.com From desertgardeneranne@yahoo.com Thu Jan 15 16:56:27 2004 From: desertgardeneranne@yahoo.com (desertgardeneranne@yahoo.com) Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 09:56:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401151656.i0FGuRtg028703@Ag.arizona.edu> I recently heard that Ironite contains Arsenic at a level of approx 3600 ppm and that Arizona has no state limits on Arsenic in fertilizer. 1) Is this the same chemical form of Arsenic that is toxic to animals? 2) Are there any standards (county, federal, etc.) for the allowable amounts of Arsenic for human contact? 3) Is this hazardous to pets or wildlife? 4) Can you have chelated iron without Arsenic? Thank you for your time. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Jan 15 14:45:01 2004 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 14:45:01 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Christmas cactus Message-ID: First, check that the the plant has good drainage. The drainage hole may become clogged and leave the plant sitting in water. Or the plant may have become potbound and blocked the drainage holes. Second, check your watering schedule. These plants require regualar water to keep the potting mixture moist except for a brief period following the flowering season. Normal room temperatures and medium shaded window light works well. How long has been since the plant was repotted? Give us some more information about the care and potting mixture you are using so we can help find the answer. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: fandangooo@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 09:40:17 -0700 (MST) > >RE: Christmas Cactus >I am having trouble with my christmas cactus this year. The leaves seem to >be very fragile, i.e., wilting, rather than strong and upright. What >causes this? > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Let the new MSN Premium Internet Software make the most of your high-speed experience. http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-us&page=byoa/prem&ST=1 From alamo@dakotacom.net Thu Jan 15 13:53:14 2004 From: alamo@dakotacom.net (Signa) Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 06:53:14 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Retro landscaping? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20040115054725.00a28ec0@pop3.norton.antivirus> At 09:26 PM 1/14/04 -0500, Garden Guy wrote: >I would find it very interesting to hear what roses they were >recommending back then. If you don't mind sending that would be >interesting. Since the whole booklet was pretty small, just pages stapled together, any one section in it was also pretty small, including the one on roses. Roses were divided into types for discussion, starting with the major and most popular type, hybrid teas. Best known and most popular listed for this type (with their colors) were Tiffany (pink), Peace (cream with pink), Mojave (apricot and orange), Chrysler Imperial (red) and Helen Traubel (apricot and pink). For floribundas, second most frequently planted here, Circus (yellow, pink and red), Jiminy Cricket (red), Fashion (pink), Ma Perkins (shell pink) and the 1957 All-America winner White Bouquet, described as having gardenia-like sparkling white blossoms. Grandifloras were mentioned next, described as a comparatively new category, the prize-winning Queen Elizabeth being the only one mentioned. Climbers were mentioned as being the most seldom planted type in Tucson. No named climbers were offered. Pillar roses were also mentioned, Golden Showers being a recommended example. The rest of the rose article discussed selecting and planting roses. You might be interested in comparing the recommended planting method with that used today. In the bottom of a 2 x 2-foot hole about a 4 to 6-inch layer of manure was spread and mixed with 1/2 cup sulphur. A mound of prepared garden soil mixture (2/3 soil, 1/3 peat moss) was formed on top of this, and the rose placed on top of the mound with the roots extending down its sides, such that the bud union would be a few inches below the level of the garden soil surrounding the hole when planting was finished. A watering basin for the rose was thereby formed. The hole was then back filled with the prepared soil mix to a little below the bud union, the fill soil gently packed in around the roots with the gardener's foot during the stages of this operation. The final step was a thorough irrigation done by filling the hole to the brim with water. Signa From rodmcq6@highstream.net Thu Jan 15 23:05:22 2004 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 16:05:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf Care Message-ID: <005201c3dbbc$0f2abea0$6131db43@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_004F_01C3DB81.618E84A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable The book DESERT LANDSCAPING FOR BEGINNERS written by several Maricopa = County Master Gardeners is one of the best available about desert = landscaping. The chapter on turf grass is written by Sharon Dewey, sales = manager for Western Sod Co. and a Master Gardener. I consider it the = most complete and informative information on turf care. It is available = at many nurseries and book stores for approximately $15.00. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener ------=_NextPart_000_004F_01C3DB81.618E84A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
The book DESERT LANDSCAPING FOR BEGINNERS  = written by=20 several Maricopa County Master Gardeners is one of the best available = about=20 desert landscaping. The chapter on turf grass is written by Sharon = Dewey, sales=20 manager for Western Sod Co. and a Master Gardener. I consider it the = most=20 complete and informative information on turf care. It is available at = many=20 nurseries and book stores for approximately
$15.00.
 
Good luck.
 
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
 
------=_NextPart_000_004F_01C3DB81.618E84A0-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Jan 16 17:37:55 2004 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 17:37:55 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Non-degree courses Message-ID: I am trying to find information about short-term, non-degree courses available in Arizona for Department of Agriculture employees in fruit and vegetable programs and also other agricultural areas. The request is from the USDA AMS office in Washington. D.C. Could you please send any information you have directly to me (drew_linda@hotmail.com). I will compile a list. I am thinking this would include the Master Gardener training, some of the commercial horticulture training classes, and I'm sure many others I'm not aware of. thank you _________________________________________________________________ Get a FREE online virus check for your PC here, from McAfee. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 From oooohflowers@cox.net Fri Jan 16 22:43:04 2004 From: oooohflowers@cox.net (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 15:43:04 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] FW: Tomatoes for the heat Message-ID: -----Original Message----- From: Ooooh Flowers! [mailto:oooohflowers@cox.net] Sent: Friday, January 16, 2004 2:52 PM To: mikedarlene@att.net Subject: RE: Tomatoes for the heat Hi Mike/Darlene; There a few tomato varieties that do better than others in hot weather, 'Carmello', 'Yellow Pear' and 'Pearson' are all said to handle the heat better than most. You won't find any tomatoes that set much fruit when temperatures exceed 90 degrees F and fruit ripening stops when temps exceed 105 degrees F. If you are growing your tomatoes in a greenhouse, shade and an evaporative cooler with adequate ventilation are a must. If you get the temp to stay down, you should be able to enjoy tomatoes year-round in your greenhouse. Good luck, I hope this helps. Kelly From graymace@charter.net Sat Jan 17 16:51:08 2004 From: graymace@charter.net (graymace@charter.net) Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 09:51:08 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401171651.i0HGp8tg021870@Ag.arizona.edu> I will be moving to Gold Canyon in March as we purchased a home. I want to know if that area is zone 2 or zone 3 for planting. Thankyou, M. Higgins, Allyn, WA From gardenguru" Message-ID: <042f01c3dd00$50ac1820$1dfacbd8@ibm22761658747> Fran, Oleanders should be pruned after the last frost. This is close to March 1 to be safe. As the temps rise, new growth will begin to appear. Depending on the variety, blooms will appear on new growth. Petite pink and salmon bloom most of the year. Little Reds only bloom once in the late spring, but have a lot of blooms that cause the plant to droop. The Hardy Reds and Pinks also have blooms thru-out the year as well as Sister Agnes which is white. You should also wait to prune Texas Sage around the same time - after the last frost. Texas Sage is a strange plant that will bloom several times a year and this occurs about 10 days after a rain. Continue to water your plants deeply and infrequently since both plants are low water use plants. Hope this helps Greg - Master Gardener From FarmerGreg@UrbanFarm.org Sat Jan 17 15:53:08 2004 From: FarmerGreg@UrbanFarm.org (Greg) Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 08:53:08 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fruit Tree Class at the Urban Farm Message-ID: Hey all, Just a reminder that we are having one last tree class before tree day and yes there are trees left over to purchase. Also, we still have a limited number of trees to donate to a school, church or other organization. This class will cover types of fruit trees that will grow and produce in the valley, what chill is and why it is the single most important thing you need to know about picking a fruit tree and urban orchard planting techniques. The class will be held at: The Urban Farm 6750 N 13th Place Phoenix, AZ 602-565-7045 Tuesday January 20th 7 pm Class usually runs for an hour and a half. See you here. Greg -- ***ATTENTION*** Please note my new email address. FarmerGreg@UrbanFarm.org The Urban Farm Growing good food Having fun gardening Connecting with nature Greg Peterson http://www.urbanfarm.org 602/565-7045 From gardenguru" Message-ID: <043001c3dd00$515b9200$1dfacbd8@ibm22761658747> The County Extension Offices have brochures available to help you with your bermuda grass watering, care and fertilizing. You may order them for one dollar by phone or drop by their main office in Tempe - 4341 East Broadway Road, 602-470-8086. or a satellite office to pick up these articles. Hope this helps Greg - Master Gardener From colettecb@cox.net Sat Jan 17 02:54:13 2004 From: colettecb@cox.net (colettecb@cox.net) Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 19:54:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cereus has developed hard, peeling spots Message-ID: <000e01c3dca5$30be5380$6501a8c0@ph.cox.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C3DC6A.842D20E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi, I have a night blooming cereus that has started to turn yellowish = and has developed hard, crusty, peeling spots along the arms. Do you = know what could be causing this? Thanks so much for your help! ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C3DC6A.842D20E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi,  I have a night blooming = cereus that has=20 started to turn yellowish and has developed hard, crusty, peeling spots = along=20 the arms.  Do you know what could be causing this?  Thanks so = much for=20 your help!
 
------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C3DC6A.842D20E0-- From mom.1950@rni.net Sun Jan 18 01:41:03 2004 From: mom.1950@rni.net (mom.1950@rni.net) Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 18:41:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401180141.i0I1f3tg000344@Ag.arizona.edu> What flowers or plants can I plant in pots on my townhouse patio? I'd like to plant some low water usage type flowers/plants. I've tried a small rose bush and it didn't do well. What is the best type of soil to use? I don't know where to start. Any assistance would be helpful. Thank you. From marita_derek@cox.net Sat Jan 17 18:34:20 2004 From: marita_derek@cox.net (Marita_ Derek) Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 10:34:20 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pittosporum hedges Message-ID: <000801c3dd28$85adb510$175a0644@derekeb7wjdz31> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C3DCE5.771963C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hello Rod- I came across your name and e-mail doing a search on what to do with our = pittosporum hedges. We live in Santa Barbara and planted them a little = over a year ago. They were thriving all last year until December and = then we started noticing some yellowing of leaves and some of those = leave then browned and died. Now more of the leaves are yellowing in = the middle of the hedges which are about 6 1/2 feet high (we have = periodically trimmed them to keep them around 6 1/2 to 7 feet). The = tops of the hedges are green and seem to be growing, but we are = concerned. Are we watering too much or too little? (drip system irrigation that = goes for about 10-15 minutes every other day during the winter months) = Do we need to fertilize? Have they been infested? Thanks for any help. Derek Lipscombe ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C3DCE5.771963C0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hello Rod-

I came across your name and e-mail doing a search on what to do = with=20 our pittosporum hedges.  We live in Santa Barbara and planted them = a little=20 over a year ago.  They were thriving all last year until December = and then=20 we started noticing some yellowing of leaves and some of those leave = then=20 browned and died.  Now more of the leaves are yellowing in the = middle of=20 the hedges which are about 6 1/2 feet high (we have periodically trimmed = them to=20 keep them around 6 1/2 to 7 feet).  The tops of the hedges are = green and=20 seem to be growing, but we are concerned.
 
Are we watering too much or too little? (drip system irrigation = that goes=20 for about 10-15 minutes every other day during the winter months)  = Do we=20 need to fertilize?  Have they been infested?
 
Thanks for any help.
 
Derek Lipscombe
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C3DCE5.771963C0-- From plantlady100@yahoo.com Sun Jan 18 14:31:35 2004 From: plantlady100@yahoo.com (plantlady100@yahoo.com) Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 07:31:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401181431.i0IEVZtg006938@Ag.arizona.edu> I have two questions about roses. Here they are: 1. What do suckers do to rose bushes and why should they be removed? 2. Is it necessary to remove the dead wood on a rose bush. On one of my bushes about half of the bush has died. Should I remove the dead part and how? The dead part seems to be in the ground and is very large and I will have great difficulty removing it. From watsontl@mindspring.com Sat Jan 17 20:16:50 2004 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 13:16:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cereus has developed hard, peeling spots References: <000e01c3dca5$30be5380$6501a8c0@ph.cox.net> Message-ID: <010501c3dd36$d7fed340$2309b83f@S0029317241> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0102_01C3DCFC.2AAA50A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Has the amount of sunlight the plant receives changed? That sounds = like sunburn. Tom ----- Original Message -----=20 From: colettecb@cox.net=20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Friday, January 16, 2004 7:54 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cereus has developed hard, peeling spots Hi, I have a night blooming cereus that has started to turn yellowish = and has developed hard, crusty, peeling spots along the arms. Do you = know what could be causing this? Thanks so much for your help! ------=_NextPart_000_0102_01C3DCFC.2AAA50A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Has the amount of sunlight the plant = receives=20 changed?   That  sounds like sunburn.
 
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 colettecb@cox.net
Sent: Friday, January 16, 2004 = 7:54=20 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cereus = has=20 developed hard, peeling spots

Hi,  I have a night blooming = cereus that has=20 started to turn yellowish and has developed hard, crusty, peeling = spots along=20 the arms.  Do you know what could be causing this?  Thanks = so much=20 for your help!
 
------=_NextPart_000_0102_01C3DCFC.2AAA50A0-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Jan 18 00:56:07 2004 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 00:56:07 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cereus has developed hard, peeling spots Message-ID: The symptoms you see might be caused by one of several fungi. The literature reports that Fusarium episphaeria may cause cause tip and basal dry rots with yellow margins (http://mrec.ifas.ufl.edu/fdacs/Cir191.htm) but it might also be any of several other fungi. Several different cacti are often called by the common name cereus. If you can identify the species of cactus you have, that will help us. For a definite answer, please bring the sample to your nearest County Cooperative Extension office. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cereus has developed hard, peeling spots >Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 19:54:13 -0700 > >Hi, I have a night blooming cereus that has started to turn yellowish and >has developed hard, crusty, peeling spots along the arms. Do you know what >could be causing this? Thanks so much for your help! _________________________________________________________________ Let the new MSN Premium Internet Software make the most of your high-speed experience. http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-us&page=byoa/prem&ST=1 From GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com Sun Jan 18 21:45:41 2004 From: GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com (GardenGuy) Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 14:45:41 -0700 Subject: [RECOVERED] RE: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <400AFE85.1050405@GardenersCorner.com> Hi Ann, I'm sending this to you personally as well as to the list. There are a couple of things you could do here. If you don't want to have a lot of watering by you personally, you could put in a drip system with it running to your various pots. That is what I did on my patio. Or, if you don't want to mess with watering much at all, I recommend you go with more arid plants, such as the "Crown of Thorns", cactus species that you like, etc., that are common in our desert landscaping. It may not look as lush, but since you don't want to mess with watering much, your choices are way more restricted. You still haven't mentioned the amount of light on the patio, and which way it faces. This would help immensely in helping you select the right plants. -- -- Chat with you later... Alan ----- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ***** LIVE Garden Chat Now Available ***** ----- Alan Zelhart GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- Out of Memory!? But I fed you 6 Megs this morning! Ann Rogers wrote: >Hi, > > Thanks for responding to my email. My patio is surrounded by three walls >(one common wall, the storage shed and the house wall) and one fence between >the patio and the carport. The patio sits on the south side of the house. >It's hard to explain, I hope this helps. I want the patio to look nice, yet >in the summer time I don't want to be out in the 100+ degree weather >watering it all of the time. Am I asking too much? > I appreciate the information. Thank you. > > > > > > From GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com Sun Jan 18 19:47:01 2004 From: GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com (GardenGuy) Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 12:47:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200401180141.i0I1f3tg000344@Ag.arizona.edu> References: <200401180141.i0I1f3tg000344@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <400AE2B5.7070304@GardenersCorner.com> Hi Mom, What kind of light does your patio receive. My patio sits on the north side of the house, and I've been experimenting with houseplants on the patio. Many do very well out there. Here are just a few I grow on the patio: http://www.gardenerscorner.com/FireFlash.html http://www.gardenerscorner.com/Spiderplant.html (note the "Wandering Jew" houseplant growing in my rose bed behind the Spider plant on the north side of the house as well. One monsoon afternoon the wind blew the pot over and when I cleaned it up, must have missed some pieces. They rooted, and now It makes a nice ground cover in my rose bed. It does back if we get a frost, but comes right back in the spring and summer). http://www.gardenerscorner.com/ZZplant.html http://www.gardenerscorner.com/MotherInLawsTongue.html http://www.gardenerscorner.com/Ficus.html http://www.gardenerscorner.com/RubberPlant.html http://www.gardenerscorner.com/CrownofThorns.html By the way folks, I've added a new section on my web site showing all the houseplants I grow with pictures and information for growing. Check it out if you are interested at: http://www.gardenerscorner.com/HousePlants.html -- -- Chat with you later... Alan ----- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ***** LIVE Garden Chat Now Available ***** ----- Alan Zelhart GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- Don't play stupid with me! I'm better at it mom.1950@rni.net wrote: >What flowers or plants can I plant in pots on my townhouse patio? I'd like to plant some low water usage type flowers/plants. I've tried a small rose bush and it didn't do well. What is the best type of soil to use? I don't know where to start. Any assistance would be helpful. Thank you. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > >. > > > -- -- Chat with you later... Alan ----- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ***** LIVE Garden Chat Now Available ***** ----- Alan Zelhart GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- Don't play stupid with me! I'm better at it From jwoods@cybertrails.com Mon Jan 19 02:58:04 2004 From: jwoods@cybertrails.com (jwoods@cybertrails.com) Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 19:58:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401190258.i0J2w4tg000704@Ag.arizona.edu> Would like to know what flowers are good to plant in Arizona now in shady spots. They receives bright light,but not a great deal of sun From carruiz@yahoo.com Sun Jan 18 19:54:47 2004 From: carruiz@yahoo.com (carruiz@yahoo.com) Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 12:54:47 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401181954.i0IJsltg028814@Ag.arizona.edu> I have tiny 1/8 to 1/4 inch bugs in my compost pile. They are segmented and have about a dozen feet on each side and short antennae . There are hundreds of them at the bottom of my compost pile. I am using a comercial plastic composter which I purchased at Home Depot. When I first started the compost pile I used some soil from the yard as the base. It has been "cooking " for at least a year. When I went to dig some up for my raised vegetable garden I found lots of bugs in the dark rich compost toward the bottom of the pile. I do turn it and add water fairly regularly. What are the bugs? Will they harm the vegetables. Is there a non chemical way to get rid of them? Thanks From oooohflowers@cox.net Mon Jan 19 04:23:13 2004 From: oooohflowers@cox.net (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2004 21:23:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tiny critters in the compost In-Reply-To: <200401181954.i0IJsltg028814@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Hello Carruiz: Click on the link below and see if your tiny critters look like the suspects in the pictures. It sounds like your compost has a case of the rolypolys. We called them sowbugs growing up. My husband called them armadillo bugs. They are most universally called isopods, a type of terrestrial crustacean. If the "bugs" in question are isopods, you have nothing to worry about. They feed on decomposing plant material (or the bacteria that decompose the plant material) and pose no harm to you or your compost. Consider them part of the composting process that don't require control. The website at the University of Kentucky suggests keeping them as pets! http://www.uky.edu/Agriculture/CritterFiles/casefile/relatives/sowbugs/sowbu g.htm If your critters don't look like isopods, give us some more descriptions to identify them. I hope this helps! Kelly From CarolynHills@cox.net Mon Jan 19 18:54:08 2004 From: CarolynHills@cox.net (Carolyn Hills) Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 10:54:08 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200401180141.i0I1f3tg000344@Ag.arizona.edu> <400AE2B5.7070304@GardenersCorner.com> Message-ID: <000c01c3debd$9ed5c1e0$a70f6244@ph.cox.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C3DE7A.905E9580 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable You should consider taking the "Container Gardening" class offered = through the Desert Gardener Institute, Maricopa County Master Gardener = Program. The next class is offered February 14th from 9:00 to 12:00 = a.m., and it only costs $20. I took the class and really learned a = lot!! The instructor, Cherie Czaplicki, knows EVERYTHING about container = gardening, and can help you with specifics of your environment. For more = information, check out: http://cals.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/calendar/PublicClasses2004.p= df=20 for information on all of the classes offered by the Desert Garden = Institute. Good luck! --carolyn ----- Original Message -----=20 From: GardenGuy=20 To: mom.1950@rni.net=20 Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Sunday, January 18, 2004 11:47 AM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hi Mom, What kind of light does your patio receive. My patio sits on the = north=20 side of the house, and I've been experimenting with houseplants on the = patio. Many do very well out there. Here are just a few I grow on = the=20 patio: http://www.gardenerscorner.com/FireFlash.html http://www.gardenerscorner.com/Spiderplant.html (note the "Wandering Jew" houseplant growing in my rose bed behind the = Spider plant on the north side of the house as well. One monsoon=20 afternoon the wind blew the pot over and when I cleaned it up, must = have=20 missed some pieces. They rooted, and now It makes a nice ground cover = in my rose bed. It does back if we get a frost, but comes right back = in=20 the spring and summer). http://www.gardenerscorner.com/ZZplant.html http://www.gardenerscorner.com/MotherInLawsTongue.html http://www.gardenerscorner.com/Ficus.html http://www.gardenerscorner.com/RubberPlant.html http://www.gardenerscorner.com/CrownofThorns.html By the way folks, I've added a new section on my web site showing all=20 the houseplants I grow with pictures and information for growing. = Check=20 it out if you are interested at: http://www.gardenerscorner.com/HousePlants.html --=20 -- Chat with you later... Alan ----- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ***** LIVE Garden Chat Now Available ***** ----- Alan Zelhart =20 GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- Don't play stupid with me! I'm better at it mom.1950@rni.net wrote: >What flowers or plants can I plant in pots on my townhouse patio? = I'd like to plant some low water usage type flowers/plants. I've tried = a small rose bush and it didn't do well. What is the best type of soil = to use? I don't know where to start. Any assistance would be helpful. = Thank you. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > >. > > =20 > --=20 -- Chat with you later... Alan ----- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ***** LIVE Garden Chat Now Available ***** ----- Alan Zelhart =20 GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.com Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- Don't play stupid with me! I'm better at it _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C3DE7A.905E9580 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
You should consider taking the "Container = Gardening"=20 class offered through the Desert Gardener Institute, Maricopa County = Master=20 Gardener Program. The next class is offered February 14th from 9:00 to = 12:00=20 a.m., and it only costs $20.  I took the class and really learned a = lot!!=20 The instructor, Cherie Czaplicki, knows EVERYTHING about container = gardening,=20 and can help you with specifics of your environment. For more = information,=20 check out:
 
http://cals.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/calendar/PublicC= lasses2004.pdf 
 
for information on all of the classes offered by the = Desert=20 Garden Institute.
 
Good luck!  --carolyn
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 GardenGuy
Sent: Sunday, January 18, 2004 = 11:47=20 AM
Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] = Question=20 from Home-Hort WWW page

Hi Mom,

What kind of light does your patio=20 receive.  My patio sits on the north
side of the house, and = I've been=20 experimenting with houseplants on the
patio.  Many do very = well out=20 there.  Here are just a few I grow on the
patio:

http://www.gardene= rscorner.com/FireFlash.html
http://www.garde= nerscorner.com/Spiderplant.html

(note=20 the "Wandering Jew" houseplant growing in my rose bed behind the =
Spider=20 plant on the north side of the house as well.  One monsoon =
afternoon=20 the wind blew the pot over and when I cleaned it up, must have =
missed some=20 pieces.  They rooted, and now It makes a nice ground cover
in = my rose=20 bed.  It does back if we get a frost, but comes right back in =
the=20 spring and summer).

http://www.gardeners= corner.com/ZZplant.html
http://ww= w.gardenerscorner.com/MotherInLawsTongue.html
http://www.gardenersco= rner.com/Ficus.html
http://www.garde= nerscorner.com/RubberPlant.html
http://www.gar= denerscorner.com/CrownofThorns.html

By=20 the way folks, I've added a new section on my web site showing all =
the=20 houseplants I grow with pictures and information for growing.  = Check=20
it out if you are interested at:

http://www.garde= nerscorner.com/HousePlants.html

--=20
--
Chat with you later...
Alan
-----
Chandler,=20 Arizona        Sunset Zone: = 13
http://www.GardenersCorner.com
*****=20 LIVE Garden Chat Now Available *****
-----
Alan=20 Zelhart      
GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.c= om
Gardens=20 Co-listowner
http://www.gardenersco= rner.com/notes.html
-----
 Don't=20 play stupid with me! I'm better at it



mom.1950@rni.net = wrote:

>What=20 flowers or plants can I plant in pots on my townhouse patio?  I'd = like to=20 plant some low water usage type flowers/plants.  I've tried a = small rose=20 bush and it didn't do well.  What is the best type of soil to = use? =20 I don't know where to start. Any assistance would be helpful.  = Thank=20 = you.
>
>_______________________________________________
&g= t;Arid_gardener=20 mailing=20 = list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mai= lman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>
>
>.
>
> = ;=20
>

--
--
Chat with you=20 later...
Alan
-----
Chandler,=20 Arizona        Sunset Zone: = 13
http://www.GardenersCorner.com
*****=20 LIVE Garden Chat Now Available *****
-----
Alan=20 Zelhart      
GardenGuy@GardenersCorner.c= om
Gardens=20 Co-listowner
http://www.gardenersco= rner.com/notes.html
-----
 Don't=20 play stupid with me! I'm better at=20 = it




_______________________________________________
= Arid_gardener=20 mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu=
http://Ag.A= rizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C3DE7A.905E9580-- From rmdce99@aol.com Mon Jan 19 17:36:07 2004 From: rmdce99@aol.com (rmdce99@aol.com) Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 10:36:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401191736.i0JHa7tg026911@Ag.arizona.edu> Where can I have my virgin desert soil tested so I can start my vegtable garden? I've been reading several books, and they all say my local County or State agencies should have free facilities for this labortory test(s). I haven't located this in the telephone directory. Please email me back. Thanks! From gruggiero@chubb.com Mon Jan 19 16:29:24 2004 From: gruggiero@chubb.com (gruggiero@chubb.com) Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 09:29:24 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401191629.i0JGTOtg018740@Ag.arizona.edu> I have an in ground swimming pool. I live in Anthem (Phoenix area) Arizona. Is it just a bad idea to plant a tree near the pool, or are there some trees that will not cause problems (root invasion) when planted near to a pool? Thanks Jerry From rodmcq6@highstream.net Mon Jan 19 23:20:38 2004 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 16:20:38 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pittosporum, watering Message-ID: <000a01c3dee8$94c7b200$5531db43@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C3DEA8.2D2E8000 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Derek, The problem with your pittosporum is that you are watering too often and = not applying enough water each time you water. Here in the low desert of Arizona winter watering for pittosporum would = be once every two weeks with the drip system running for about two = hours. Because of your climate difference I would suggest that you call your = county Cooperative Extension to get their input on the problem. You will = find them listed under county government in the phone book. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener ------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C3DEA8.2D2E8000 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Derek,
The problem with your pittosporum is that you are = watering too=20 often and not applying enough water each time you water.
Here in the low desert of Arizona winter watering = for=20 pittosporum would be once every two weeks with the drip system = running for=20 about two hours.
Because of your climate difference I would suggest = that you=20 call your county Cooperative Extension to get their input on the = problem. You=20 will find them listed under county government in the phone = book.
 
Good luck
 
Rod McKusick
Master = Gardener
------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C3DEA8.2D2E8000-- From sbaker132@aol.com Mon Jan 19 23:52:56 2004 From: sbaker132@aol.com (sbaker132@aol.com) Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 18:52:56 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tipuana Tipu trees Message-ID: <1c8.1440bd28.2d3dc7d8@aol.com> -------------------------------1074556376 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Any comments about putting one of these in a large expanse of lawn for some eventual shade? Also are they dog friendly? Thanks. -------------------------------1074556376 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Any comments about putting one of these in a large expanse of lawn for so= me eventual shade? Also are they dog friendly? Thanks. -------------------------------1074556376-- From osbtucson@benedictinesisters.org Mon Jan 19 21:46:33 2004 From: osbtucson@benedictinesisters.org (osbtucson@benedictinesisters.org) Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 14:46:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401192146.i0JLkXtg029551@Ag.arizona.edu> When is the best time to prune and older, tall avocado tree? From rodmcq6@highstream.net Mon Jan 19 23:52:22 2004 From: rodmcq6@highstream.net (Rod) Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 16:52:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rose Questions Message-ID: <000b01c3dee8$9615dce0$5531db43@ibmbna6040> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01C3DEAC.9BA79C20 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable If the suckers that you refer too are growing from the base of the rose = below the graft, they are growing from the root stock which is different = from the rose variety and the suckers should be removed. Since the root = stock is usually hardier and more vigorous than the rose variety, if = left to grow the root stock would soon take over the rose bush. Here in = the southwest a root stock that is commonly used is called Dr Huey and = if left to grow will produce small red blooms only once per year. Dead canes should be removed as they occur or when you do the annual = pruning of your roses, here in the Phoenix area annual pruning should be = done in January. It sounds like the rose bush has what is called Crown Gall, a bacterial = infection which has gained access to the rose through a cut or injury to = the rose bush. There is not a positive cure for Crown Gall and it is = recommended that the rose be removed along with the soil and disposed. = Be sure to clean and sterilize any tools used to remove the bush as the = bacteria can be spread to other roses. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01C3DEAC.9BA79C20 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
If the suckers that you refer too are growing from the base of the = rose=20 below the graft, they are growing from the root stock which is different = from=20 the rose variety and the suckers should be removed. Since the root = stock is=20 usually hardier and more vigorous than the rose variety, if left to grow = the=20 root stock would soon take over the rose bush. Here in the southwest a = root=20 stock that is commonly used is called Dr Huey and if left to grow will = produce=20 small red blooms only once per year.
 
Dead canes should be removed as they occur or when you do the = annual=20 pruning of your roses, here in the Phoenix area annual pruning should be = done in=20 January.
It sounds like the rose bush has what is called Crown Gall, a = bacterial=20 infection which has gained access to the rose through a cut or injury to = the=20 rose bush. There is not a positive cure for Crown Gall and it is = recommended=20 that the rose be removed along with the soil and disposed. Be sure to = clean and=20 sterilize any tools used to remove the bush as the bacteria can be = spread to=20 other roses.
 
Good luck.
 
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Consulting=20 Rosarian
------=_NextPart_000_001E_01C3DEAC.9BA79C20-- From bestcook2x@aol.com Tue Jan 20 19:40:54 2004 From: bestcook2x@aol.com (bestcook2x@aol.com) Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 12:40:54 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401201940.i0KJessZ014801@Ag.arizona.edu> I am looking for a plant (flowering shrub) that is very tolerant of high heat. I have a corner near a wall that gets full afternoon sunlight and it gets very hot. I am in Gilbert From thesollidays@cox.net Tue Jan 20 15:08:54 2004 From: thesollidays@cox.net (Susan Solliday) Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 08:08:54 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] RGRP Tour Meeting: Wednesday, 1/21 Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C3DF2C.A5B6EDD0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The next Real Gardens for Real People Tour meeting is on Wednesday, 1/21, at 9:30 am in the Palo Verde room. Stop on by, committee chairs could use your help! ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---- ------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C3DF2C.A5B6EDD0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
  The next Real Gardens for Real People = Tour meeting=20 is on Wednesday, 1/21, at 9:30 am in the Palo Verde room.  Stop on = by,=20 committee chairs could use your help! 
 

------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C3DF2C.A5B6EDD0-- From oooohflowers@cox.net Tue Jan 20 03:26:29 2004 From: oooohflowers@cox.net (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 20:26:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Testing Virgin Desert Soil In-Reply-To: <200401191736.i0JHa7tg026911@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Hi rmdce; Unfortunately, the Cooperative Extension is no longer able to provide free soil testing. There are certain soil conditions that you can be fairly certain of. These conditions include: 1. Low organic matter content 2. Low Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Iron content 3. High pH The first two are fairly easy to remedy by adding good quality compost twice each year. Spread about 3" on the surface of the soil and mix it in to a depth of about 12" two times each year.. The high pH is a little more difficult to deal with. Adding sulfur containing amendments might help. Working organic matter into the soil will also help to very gradually decrease soil pH. Publication AZ 1020, Fertilizing Home Gardens in Arizona gives excellent information on how to improve soil to grow a vegetable garden. Get it for free online at: http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1020.pdf An excellent book for new desert vegetable gardeners is Desert Gardening for Beginners, published by Master Gardener Press. Find out more about it and how to buy it at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/mgpress/dgfb.htm If you are willing to pay for a soil test, a list of labs is online at http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1111.pdf Best of luck! Kelly From RAbungalow@yahoo.com Wed Jan 21 13:50:54 2004 From: RAbungalow@yahoo.com (RAbungalow@yahoo.com) Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 06:50:54 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401211350.i0LDossZ023178@Ag.arizona.edu> My husband & I are wanting to start adding some trees, bushes, etc. to our yard. We live in a more rural area and have only natural desert landscaping. We would like to plant some fruit trees and 1 pecan tree. Are there any specific varieties that grow best here in the Mesa/AJ area and when are they best planted? We also will soon need to start planting some trees or hedges to block us from neighbors and a community that is being built. Do you have any suggestions of plants that are appropriate for our climate and will do well with enduring wind, blocking light and sound? Does anyone have any suggestions for keeping the little ground squirrels out of our vegetable garden containers? We had a dog and the containers were in his pen, but he died last week and the little darlings sure made note of it and are brutalizing our tomato plants. Thank you. R.A. From rkgross3@cox.net Wed Jan 21 06:51:00 2004 From: rkgross3@cox.net (Dick Gross) Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 23:51:00 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Avocado prunning Message-ID: <035801c3dfea$efc544d0$7e33e644@DickGross> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0355_01C3DFB0.41BDECF0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I am groping in the dark because I don't have the original transmission = or inquiry. I have been asked by Mike Hills to respond to a question = about pruning avocados. Without knowing your specific question I will = tell you what I can but keep in mind that I can't back any of it up = without more facts. Is this by any chance the tree in the Nunnery (I'm sure that is not the = right word) North of Alvernon? The one I've seen is a 30+ year old = fruiting seedling 20 to 30 feet tall inside a courtyard at the rear of = this two or three story brick building. Theoretically, you can trim avocados at any time of the year but is = seldom done except to restrain size and picking ease to avoid having to = stand on a 12 foot ladder to pick the fruit. Proper pruning practices = should be followed and it is well to keep in mind that the bark is = subject to severe sunburn from direct exposure especially on exposed = surfaces previously protected by foliage or structures. Any such = exposures should be painted immediately with a white latex available at = any nursery for that purpose.=20 If you intend to hire the tree pruned, I urge you to be very cautious = about whom you employ. The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension = in your area might be able to help you with that. =20 The Southern Arizona chapter of the California Rare Fruit Growers is in = Tucson. One member successfully grows and fruits avocados in his home = landscape. If you will tell me who to contact and how, I will ask them = look at the tree and its location and advise you on how to deal with it. = There would be no charge, of course. Services to the public are the core = of our mission. Some one with horticultural knowledge and pruning skills should examine = the tree before anyone is allowed to even look at it with a saw in = hand. Regards, Dick Gross, Secretary/Editor Arizona Rare Fruit Growers Bcc: AzCRFG ------=_NextPart_000_0355_01C3DFB0.41BDECF0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I am groping in the dark because I don't have = the original=20 transmission or inquiry. I have been asked by Mike Hills to respond = to a=20 question about pruning avocados. Without knowing your specific question = I will=20 tell you what I can but keep in mind that I can't back any of it up = without more=20 facts.
 
Is this by any chance the tree in the = Nunnery (I'm=20 sure that is not the right word) North of Alvernon? The one I've seen is = a 30+=20 year old fruiting seedling 20 to 30 feet tall inside a courtyard at = the=20 rear of this two or three story brick building.
 
Theoretically, you can trim avocados at any = time of=20 the year  but is seldom done except to restrain size and picking = ease to=20 avoid having to stand on a 12 foot ladder to pick the fruit. Proper = pruning=20 practices should be followed and it is well to keep in mind that the=20 bark is subject to severe sunburn from direct exposure = especially on=20 exposed surfaces previously protected by foliage or=20 structures. Any such exposures should be painted = immediately with a=20 white latex available at any nursery for that purpose.
 
If you intend to hire the tree pruned, I urge = you to be=20 very cautious about whom you employ. The University of Arizona = Cooperative=20 Extension in your area might be able to help you with=20 that.  
 
 The Southern=20 Arizona chapter of the California Rare Fruit Growers is = in Tucson. One=20 member successfully grows and fruits avocados in his home landscape. If = you will=20 tell me who to contact and how, I will ask them look at the tree = and its=20 location and advise you on how to deal with it. There would be no = charge, of=20 course. Services to the public are the core of our=20 mission.
 
Some one with horticultural knowledge and = pruning=20 skills should examine the tree before anyone is allowed to = even look=20 at  it with a saw in hand.
 
Regards,
 
Dick Gross, Secretary/Editor
Arizona Rare Fruit Growers
 
Bcc:=20 AzCRFG        
------=_NextPart_000_0355_01C3DFB0.41BDECF0-- From watsontl@mindspring.com Wed Jan 21 01:32:42 2004 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 18:32:42 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Testing Virgin Desert Soil References: Message-ID: <000401c3dfbe$780268f0$d120b83f@S0029317241> Soil sulfur should be added regardless of the effect it might have on pH. Because our soils are low on organic material, they are also short on sulfur, which plants need to build a variety of proteins. A good sign that you need sulfur would be that tomatoes and peppers flower but do not set fruit. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ooooh Flowers!" To: ; Sent: Monday, January 19, 2004 8:26 PM Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] Testing Virgin Desert Soil > Hi rmdce; > > Unfortunately, the Cooperative Extension is no longer able to provide free > soil testing. There are certain soil conditions that you can be fairly > certain of. These conditions include: > 1. Low organic matter content > 2. Low Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Iron content > 3. High pH > The first two are fairly easy to remedy by adding good quality compost twice > each year. Spread about 3" on the surface of the soil and mix it in to a > depth of about 12" two times each year.. The high pH is a little more > difficult to deal with. Adding sulfur containing amendments might help. > Working organic matter into the soil will also help to very gradually > decrease soil pH. > > > Publication AZ 1020, Fertilizing Home Gardens in Arizona gives excellent > information on how to improve soil to grow a vegetable garden. Get it for > free online at: > http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1020.pdf > > An excellent book for new desert vegetable gardeners is Desert Gardening for > Beginners, published by Master Gardener Press. Find out more about it and > how to buy it at > http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/mgpress/dgfb.htm > > If you are willing to pay for a soil test, a list of labs is online at > http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1111.pdf > > Best of luck! > > Kelly > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From JBfinger@aol.com Wed Jan 21 00:44:20 2004 From: JBfinger@aol.com (JBfinger@aol.com) Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 17:44:20 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401210044.i0L0iKsZ025494@Ag.arizona.edu> I live in Yuma, AZ. I have an Orlalndo tangelo tree. For the past 3 years it has gradually began to die. The branches are dying off. One whole side of the tree is dead and has not had any new growth at all. It sits next to a Grapefruit tree. Can you tell me what is happening to this tree. The grapefruit, and the orange tree next to it are doing wonderful. I fertilize it twice a year. I know that it probably requires 3 times a year. The fruit is plentiful every other year and is quite good and juicy. although this year half of the tree is dead. the branches are not green in the inside. Please help! From mhills@seedsolutions.com Wed Jan 21 01:04:00 2004 From: mhills@seedsolutions.com (Mike Hills) Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 18:04:00 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200401201940.i0KJessZ014801@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <00df01c3dfba$74b7f5b0$0500a8c0@RSIOAQ3YCFIW63> Dear Best Cook Couple of QUESTIONS first: 1) how large do you want the shrub to get at maturity? 2) do you have an irrigation system in place? 3) is the soil in that spot native regular soil, or has it been amended and improved? These might help to narrow down the huge number of choices available. Mike Hills -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of bestcook2x@aol.com Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2004 12:41 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am looking for a plant (flowering shrub) that is very tolerant of high heat. I have a corner near a wall that gets full afternoon sunlight and it gets very hot. I am in Gilbert _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Bob_Ternes@qwest.net Tue Jan 20 14:26:06 2004 From: Bob_Ternes@qwest.net (Bob_Ternes@qwest.net) Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 07:26:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401201426.i0KEQ6sZ003764@Ag.arizona.edu> We have a Lime tree that apparently has died. It was about 7 years old, and 12 feet tall and until this summer was very robust. Unfortunately, this summer, random branches would begin to die completely. The leaves would yellow and dry and so would the fruit. I would cut them off, fearing a pest infestation. Last month, the entire tree died over the course of a single week. I have taken a branch to the nursury, and they were sure that an animal had attacked the roots, but the exterminator tells me that no such thing happened. I want to re plant another lime, and am afraid that the ground may have a chemical, fungi, or mold problem. Also I have other citrus and don't want them to get the same thing. Any suggesstions? Thanks much, Bob Ternes From donna_fr@yahoo.com Wed Jan 21 01:40:40 2004 From: donna_fr@yahoo.com (donna_fr@yahoo.com) Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 18:40:40 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401210140.i0L1eesZ002519@Ag.arizona.edu> I have some 4-5-6 foot tall, 25-year old sea green juniper bushes. The guy that cuts my grass trimmed them into giant bonsai shapes and now the bottoms are bare and scraggly looking . . . I must admit that it is a strangely interesting look. What can I plant under these junipers that will stay short and enhance the look? Something that does not require trimming and can take abuse from my creative grass-cutter would be nice. And, when should I plant whatever it is? I am located near 48th ST and Southern in Phoenix. The soil is caliche. Please keep in mind my low skill level (but kind heart). Thank you for any ideas or advice you may have. From geodrum@worldnet.att.net Wed Jan 21 14:26:13 2004 From: geodrum@worldnet.att.net (George D) Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 07:26:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200401211350.i0LDossZ023178@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <400E8C04.104EC7C3@worldnet.att.net> RAbungalow@yahoo.com wrote: > > My husband & I are wanting to start adding some trees, bushes, etc. to our yard. We live in a more rural area and have only natural desert landscaping. We would like to plant some fruit trees and 1 pecan tree. Are there any specific varieties that grow best here in the Mesa/AJ area and when are they best planted? > Remember that you need another Pecan tree close (within 100 or so feet if the wind is right) for cross pollination. -- George D Phoenix, AZ AAA, AARP, ANA, NRA, RCC ?+1, PIA, PIAAZ, GATF 85006-3032-18-4 Please use this address to mail me. Or remove the arizona in the link. Remember there is no Arizona. geodrum@att.net ALL emails incoming and outgoing are run thru Norton and AVG anti virus. From cpm6@CORNELL.EDU Tue Jan 20 02:36:18 2004 From: cpm6@CORNELL.EDU (Charles P. Mazza) Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 19:36:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Online grafting course starts March 15 Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20040119193518.01f7a8d8@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_25195949==_ Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="=====================_25195959==_.ALT" --=====================_25195959==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed To: Master Gardener Coordinators in North America Your Master Gardeners may find this distance learning course on grafting interesting to advance their training. Grafting is a topic not often covered to the degree of depth and science that it is covered by my colleague, Dr. Ken Mudge, at Cornell. It is also rarely presented as a learning experience for gardeners as the primary audience. The press releases below are two lengths (short one in the body of the message below) and a longer one (as a Microsoft Word attachment). Charlie Mazza *********** >Learn grafting at home > >10-week web-based course starts March 15, 2004. > >ITHACA, N.Y. - If you've ever wanted to learn how to graft plants, here's >your chance. The award-winning, hand-on distance education course The How, >When, and Why of Grafting for Gardeners will teach you chip budding, >T-budding, and top-wedge grafting. By focusing on the principles as well >as the practices, you can apply what you learn to other species and >methods, allowing you to propagate plants that don't root easily, graft >several fruit varieties onto a single tree, or create unusual growth >forms, such as tree peonies and arborisculpture. > >The noncredit course, developed by Dr. Ken Mudge, professor in Cornell's >Department of Horticulture, includes web-based multimedia lectures, video >demonstrations, hands-on grafting with live plants, online quizzes and >interactive discussions. > >The course runs from March 15 to May 23, 2004. (Registration deadline is >March 8.) Cost is $300, which includes shipment of live hibiscus plants >used in laboratory exercises, plus grafting knife and supplies. For more >information, visit www.hort.cornell.edu/grafting. > ># # # > >Craig Cramer >Communications Specialist, Department of Horticulture >http://www.hort.cornell.edu/gardening/cdc/ > >cdc25@cornell.edu Charles P. Mazza 15F Plant Science Bldg. Dept. of Horticulture Cornell University Ithaca, NY 14853 607-255-1791 607-255-9998 (Fax) --=====================_25195959==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" To: Master Gardener Coordinators in North America

Your Master Gardeners may find this distance learning course on grafting interesting to advance their training. Grafting is a topic not often covered to the degree of depth and science that it is covered by my colleague, Dr. Ken Mudge, at Cornell. It is also rarely presented as a learning experience for gardeners as the primary audience. The press releases below are two lengths (short one in the body of the message below) and a longer one (as a Microsoft Word attachment).

Charlie Mazza
***********

Learn grafting at home

10-week web-based course starts March 15, 2004.

ITHACA, N.Y. - If you've ever wanted to learn how to graft plants, here's your chance. The award-winning, hand-on distance education course The How, When, and Why of Grafting for Gardeners will teach you chip budding, T-budding, and top-wedge grafting. By focusing on the principles as well as the practices, you can apply what you learn to other species and methods, allowing you to propagate plants that don't root easily, graft several fruit varieties onto a single tree, or create unusual growth forms, such as tree peonies and arborisculpture.

The noncredit course, developed by Dr. Ken Mudge, professor in Cornell's Department of Horticulture, includes web-based multimedia lectures, video demonstrations, hands-on grafting with live plants, online quizzes and interactive discussions.

The course runs from March 15 to May 23, 2004. (Registration deadline is March 8.) Cost is $300, which includes shipment of live hibiscus plants used in laboratory exercises, plus grafting knife and supplies. For more information, visit www.hort.cornell.edu/grafting.

# # #

Craig Cramer
Communications Specialist, Department of Horticulture
http://www.hort.cornell.edu/gardening/cdc/

cdc25@cornell.edu

Charles P. Mazza
15F Plant Science Bldg.
Dept. of Horticulture
Cornell University
Ithaca, NY 14853
607-255-1791
607-255-9998 (Fax)


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//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// //////////////////////////8BAP7/AwoAAP////8GCQIAAAAAAMAAAAAAAABGGAAAAE1pY3Jv c29mdCBXb3JkIERvY3VtZW50AAoAAABNU1dvcmREb2MAEAAAAFdvcmQuRG9jdW1lbnQuOAD0ObJx AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA== --=====================_25195949==_-- From kelley@housechick.com Thu Jan 22 15:09:50 2004 From: kelley@housechick.com (Kelley Koehler) Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 08:09:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Whether and how to trim pencil cactus after freeze Message-ID: <1074784055.20666@mail.it-coop.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0003_01C3E0BF.1C1A8020 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I've got a potted pencil cactus, about 3-4 feet tall, that partially froze on my back patio. I brought it inside the next day and the parts that froze are turning brown. Should I cut them off now? Where do I make the cuts? A good portion of the plant seems alive and well, I'd like to salvage as much of it as I can. Thanks for the help, Kelley ------=_NextPart_000_0003_01C3E0BF.1C1A8020 Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I’ve got a potted pencil cactus, about 3-4 feet = tall, that partially froze on my back patio.  I brought it inside the = next day and the parts that froze are turning brown.  Should I cut them off = now?  Where do I make the cuts?  A good portion of the plant seems alive = and well, I’d like to salvage as much of it as I = can.

 

Thanks for the help,

Kelley

------=_NextPart_000_0003_01C3E0BF.1C1A8020-- From cgreer5188@aol.com Thu Jan 22 14:49:42 2004 From: cgreer5188@aol.com (cgreer5188@aol.com) Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 07:49:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401221449.i0MEngsZ015612@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a tree that appears to be sick. I don't know what kind of tree it is. I noticed a light colored mold or fungus on the ground around the base of the tree. Is there anything I can do to try to save the tree? From elkonecki@aol.com Thu Jan 22 16:03:48 2004 From: elkonecki@aol.com (elkonecki@aol.com) Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 11:03:48 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ficus Natida Message-ID: -------------------------------1074787427 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have a ficus natida tree just planted last March that froze this winter. Will It recover or is the tree a goner? Every leaf is dead. The tree is about 9 ft. tall and about 1 1/2" in dia. Thank you very much, Echo Konecki -------------------------------1074787427 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I have a ficus natida tree just planted last March that=20= froze this winter.  Will It recover or is the tree a goner?  Every= leaf is dead.  The tree is about 9 ft. tall and about  1 1/2" in=20= dia. 
 
Thank you very much,
Echo Konecki
-------------------------------1074787427-- From GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net Thu Jan 22 04:43:28 2004 From: GrdnLsts@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 21:43:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200401211350.i0LDossZ023178@Ag.arizona.edu> <400E8C04.104EC7C3@worldnet.att.net> Message-ID: <003e01c3e0a2$4d8e48c0$2669480c@olin> ----- Original Message ----- > RAbungalow@yahoo.com wrote: > > > > My husband & I are wanting to start adding some trees, bushes, etc. to our yard. We live in a more rural area and have only natural desert landscaping. We would like to plant some fruit trees and 1 pecan tree. Are there any specific varieties that grow best here in the Mesa/AJ area and when are they best planted? > > > > Remember that you need another Pecan tree close (within 100 or so feet if the wind is right) for > cross pollination. > George D > Phoenix, AZ > AAA, AARP, ANA, NRA, RCC ?+1, PIA, PIAAZ, GATF 85006-3032-18-4 > Most pecan trees require a pollenizer tree but my Western Schley does not. It is considered to be self and is a good tree for single planting. Refer to: http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1269.pdf for information about adapted fruit and nut trees.trees. Olin From Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com Thu Jan 22 18:41:14 2004 From: Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com (Zelhart Alan-rpcs30) Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 11:41:14 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ficus Natida Message-ID: <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B9930708E69113@az33exm25.corp.mot.com> This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C3E117.506B95D2 Content-Type: text/plain Hi Echo, Every tree may be dead, but are the branches dead? When I check mine they are all very flexible and green. I suspect the frost burnt leaves will fall off and new leaves will bud out as long as your branches are green. If you bend the tip of the branch and it breaks, it is dead, if you bend it and it's flexible, the branch is very much alive. If the tip is dead, see how far you have to go back before it no longer breaks and is flexible. You will probably need to prune down to that area. But I would wait until new leaves start coming out so you know where to prune back to. -- Chat with you later, Alan -- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ----- Alan Zelhart gizmoaz@cox.net Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- ***** Blessed is the end-user who expects nothing, for ye shall not be disappointed. -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu] On Behalf Of elkonecki@aol.com Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2004 9:04 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ficus Natida I have a ficus natida tree just planted last March that froze this winter. Will It recover or is the tree a goner? Every leaf is dead. The tree is about 9 ft. tall and about 1 1/2" in dia. Thank you very much, Echo Konecki ------_=_NextPart_001_01C3E117.506B95D2 Content-Type: text/html Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 PCFET0NUWVBFIEhUTUwgUFVCTElDICItLy9XM0MvL0RURCBIVE1MIDQuMCBUcmFuc2l0aW9uYWwv L0VOIj4NCjxIVE1MPjxIRUFEPg0KPE1FVEEgSFRUUC1FUVVJVj0iQ29udGVudC1UeXBlIiBDT05U RU5UPSJ0ZXh0L2h0bWw7IGNoYXJzZXQ9dXMtYXNjaWkiPg0KPFRJVExFPk1lc3NhZ2U8L1RJVExF Pg0KDQo8TUVUQSBjb250ZW50PSJNU0hUTUwgNi4wMC4yODAwLjEyNzYiIG5hbWU9R0VORVJBVE9S PjwvSEVBRD4NCjxCT0RZIHN0eWxlPSJGT05ULVNJWkU6IDEycHQ7IEZPTlQtRkFNSUxZOiBBcmlh bDsgQkFDS0dST1VORC1DT0xPUjogI2ZmZmZmZiI+DQo8RElWPjxTUEFOIGNsYXNzPTY4MDU1Mzgx OC0yMjAxMjAwND5IaSBFY2hvLDwvU1BBTj48L0RJVj4NCjxESVY+PFNQQU4gY2xhc3M9NjgwNTUz ODE4LTIyMDEyMDA0PjwvU1BBTj4mbmJzcDs8L0RJVj4NCjxESVY+PFNQQU4gY2xhc3M9NjgwNTUz ODE4LTIyMDEyMDA0PkV2ZXJ5IHRyZWUgbWF5IGJlIGRlYWQsIGJ1dCBhcmUgdGhlIGJyYW5jaGVz IA0KZGVhZD8mbmJzcDsgV2hlbiBJIGNoZWNrIG1pbmUgdGhleSBhcmUgYWxsIHZlcnkgZmxleGli bGUgYW5kIGdyZWVuLiZuYnNwOyBJIA0Kc3VzcGVjdCB0aGUgZnJvc3QgYnVybnQgbGVhdmVzIHdp bGwgZmFsbCBvZmYgYW5kIG5ldyBsZWF2ZXMgd2lsbCBidWQgb3V0IGFzIGxvbmcgDQphcyB5b3Vy IGJyYW5jaGVzIGFyZSBncmVlbi4mbmJzcDsgSWYgeW91IGJlbmQgdGhlIHRpcCBvZiB0aGUgYnJh bmNoIGFuZCBpdCANCmJyZWFrcywgaXQgaXMgZGVhZCwgaWYgeW91IGJlbmQgaXQgYW5kIGl0J3Mg ZmxleGlibGUsIHRoZSBicmFuY2ggaXMgdmVyeSBtdWNoIA0KYWxpdmUuJm5ic3A7IElmIHRoZSB0 aXAgaXMgZGVhZCwgc2VlIGhvdyBmYXIgeW91IGhhdmUgdG8gZ28gYmFjayBiZWZvcmUgaXQgbm8g DQpsb25nZXIgYnJlYWtzIGFuZCBpcyBmbGV4aWJsZS4mbmJzcDsgWW91IHdpbGwgcHJvYmFibHkg bmVlZCB0byBwcnVuZSBkb3duIHRvIA0KdGhhdCBhcmVhLiZuYnNwOyBCdXQgSSB3b3VsZCB3YWl0 IHVudGlsIG5ldyBsZWF2ZXMgc3RhcnQgY29taW5nIG91dCBzbyB5b3Uga25vdyANCndoZXJlIHRv IHBydW5lIGJhY2sgdG8uPC9TUEFOPjwvRElWPg0KPERJVj4mbmJzcDs8L0RJVj4NCjxESVY+LS08 QlI+Q2hhdCB3aXRoIHlvdSBsYXRlciw8QlI+QWxhbjxCUj4tLSA8QlI+Q2hhbmRsZXIsIA0KQXJp em9uYSZuYnNwOyZuYnNwOyZuYnNwOyZuYnNwOyZuYnNwOyZuYnNwOyZuYnNwOyBTdW5zZXQgWm9u ZTogMTM8QlI+PEEgDQpocmVmPSJodHRwOi8vd3d3LkdhcmRlbmVyc0Nvcm5lci5jb20iPmh0dHA6 Ly93d3cuR2FyZGVuZXJzQ29ybmVyLmNvbTwvQT48QlI+LS0tLS08QlI+QWxhbiANClplbGhhcnQm bmJzcDsmbmJzcDsmbmJzcDsmbmJzcDsmbmJzcDsmbmJzcDsgPEJSPjxBIA0KaHJlZj0ibWFpbHRv Omdpem1vYXpAY294Lm5ldCI+Z2l6bW9hekBjb3gubmV0PC9BPjxCUj5HYXJkZW5zIENvLWxpc3Rv d25lcjxCUj48QSANCmhyZWY9Imh0dHA6Ly93d3cuZ2FyZGVuZXJzY29ybmVyLmNvbS9ub3Rlcy5o dG1sIj5odHRwOi8vd3d3LmdhcmRlbmVyc2Nvcm5lci5jb20vbm90ZXMuaHRtbDwvQT48QlI+LS0t LS0mbmJzcDsgDQo8QlI+KioqKiombmJzcDsgQmxlc3NlZCBpcyB0aGUgZW5kLXVzZXIgd2hvIGV4 cGVjdHMgbm90aGluZywgZm9yIHllIHNoYWxsIG5vdCBiZSANCmRpc2FwcG9pbnRlZC48QlI+PC9E SVY+DQo8RElWPg0KPERJVj48Rk9OVCBmYWNlPVZlcmRhbmEgc2l6ZT0yPjwvRk9OVD4mbmJzcDs8 L0RJVj48L0RJVj4NCjxCTE9DS1FVT1RFIGRpcj1sdHIgc3R5bGU9Ik1BUkdJTi1SSUdIVDogMHB4 Ij4NCiAgPERJVj48L0RJVj4NCiAgPERJViBjbGFzcz1PdXRsb29rTWVzc2FnZUhlYWRlciBsYW5n PWVuLXVzIGRpcj1sdHIgYWxpZ249bGVmdD48Rk9OVCANCiAgZmFjZT1UYWhvbWEgc2l6ZT0yPi0t LS0tT3JpZ2luYWwgTWVzc2FnZS0tLS0tPEJSPjxCPkZyb206PC9CPiANCiAgYXJpZF9nYXJkZW5l ci1hZG1pbkBBZy5hcml6b25hLmVkdSBbbWFpbHRvOmFyaWRfZ2FyZGVuZXItYWRtaW5AQWcuYXJp em9uYS5lZHVdIA0KICA8Qj5PbiBCZWhhbGYgT2YgPC9CPmVsa29uZWNraUBhb2wuY29tPEJSPjxC PlNlbnQ6PC9CPiBUaHVyc2RheSwgSmFudWFyeSAyMiwgDQogIDIwMDQgOTowNCBBTTxCUj48Qj5U bzo8L0I+IGFyaWRfZ2FyZGVuZXJAQWcuYXJpem9uYS5lZHU8QlI+PEI+U3ViamVjdDo8L0I+IA0K ICBbQXJpZF9nYXJkZW5lcl0gRmljdXMgTmF0aWRhPEJSPjxCUj48L0ZPTlQ+PC9ESVY+DQogIDxE SVY+PEZPTlQgc2l6ZT0yPkkgaGF2ZSBhIGZpY3VzIG5hdGlkYSB0cmVlIGp1c3QgcGxhbnRlZCBs YXN0IE1hcmNoIHRoYXQgDQogIGZyb3plIHRoaXMgd2ludGVyLiZuYnNwOyBXaWxsIEl0IHJlY292 ZXIgb3IgaXMgdGhlIHRyZWUgYSBnb25lcj8mbmJzcDsgRXZlcnkgDQogIGxlYWYgaXMgZGVhZC4m bmJzcDsgVGhlIHRyZWUgaXMgYWJvdXQgOSBmdC4gdGFsbCBhbmQgYWJvdXQmbmJzcDsgMSAxLzIi IGluIA0KICBkaWEuJm5ic3A7IDwvRk9OVD48L0RJVj4NCiAgPERJVj48Rk9OVCBzaXplPTI+PC9G T05UPiZuYnNwOzwvRElWPg0KICA8RElWPjxGT05UIHNpemU9Mj5UaGFuayB5b3UgdmVyeSBtdWNo LDwvRk9OVD48L0RJVj4NCiAgPERJVj48Rk9OVCBzaXplPTI+RWNobyBLb25lY2tpPC9GT05UPjwv RElWPjwvQkxPQ0tRVU9URT48L0JPRFk+PC9IVE1MPg0K ------_=_NextPart_001_01C3E117.506B95D2-- From gardenguy@gardenerscorner.com Thu Jan 22 19:23:13 2004 From: gardenguy@gardenerscorner.com (Garden Guy) Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 14:23:13 -0500 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ficus Natida Message-ID: Ooops, that should say, every leaf may be dead, but are the branches? > This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand > this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. > > > Hi Echo, > > Every tree may be dead, but are the branches dead? When I check mine they are all very flexible and green. I suspect the frost burnt leaves will fall off and new leaves will bud out as long as your branches are green. If you bend the tip of the branch and it breaks, it is dead, if you bend it and it's flexible, the branch is very much alive. If the tip is dead, see how far you have to go back before it no longer breaks and is flexible. You will probably need to prune down to that area. But I would wait until new leaves start coming out so you know where to prune back to. > > -- > Chat with you later, > Alan > -- > Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 > http://www.GardenersCorner.com > ----- > Alan Zelhart > gizmoaz@cox.net > Gardens Co-listowner > http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html > ----- > ***** Blessed is the end-user who expects nothing, for ye shall not be disappointed. > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu] On Behalf Of elkonecki@aol.com > Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2004 9:04 AM > To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ficus Natida > > > I have a ficus natida tree just planted last March that froze this winter. Will It recover or is the tree a goner? Every leaf is dead. The tree is about 9 ft. tall and about 1 1/2" in dia. > > Thank you very much, > Echo Konecki > > > -- From sbarvian1@cableaz.com Thu Jan 22 19:37:42 2004 From: sbarvian1@cableaz.com (Scott Barvian) Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 12:37:42 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] suggestions for "pot tree" Message-ID: <000701c3e11f$33f90760$2824a8c0@lbmelman> Hi arid_gardeners, I would like to hang some potted plants (now randomly scattered across my back yard), on my patio supports. I found a good solution at http://www.tucsongardener.com/Year02/Fall2002/pottree.htm however as the author notes, it's hard to find the pot hanging clips. I've been everywhere and haven't found anything suitable. Any ideas? From tvstorey@cals.arizona.edu Thu Jan 22 21:00:12 2004 From: tvstorey@cals.arizona.edu (Tyler Storey) Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 14:00:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pesticide Information Resource Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20040122133245.00c311b0@cals.arizona.edu> Do you have questions about pesticide safety, uses, or risks? This place has the answers to help you assess toxicity and risks, explore alternatives, learn about safe-use practices, identify poisoning signs, and much much more. The National Pesticide Information Center (NPIC) is a cooperative effort of the Department of Environmental and Molecular Toxicology Department at Oregon State University and the Office of pesticide Programs at the US Environmental Protection Agency. They are available to answer your pesticide questions form 6:30 am to 4:30 pm (Pacific Time), 7 days a week at 1-800-858-7378. You can also reach them via e-mail at npic@ace.orst.edu or visit their web-site at npic.orst.edu. Tyler V. Storey Program Coordinator, Sr. Urban Horticulture The University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 East Broadway, Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 602-470-8086 ext. 311 From colleen freidberg Fri Jan 23 01:15:30 2004 From: colleen freidberg (colleen freidberg) Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 18:15:30 -0700 (GMT-07:00) Subject: [Arid_gardener] corn meal gluten Message-ID: <4177623.1074820530424.JavaMail.root@bert.psp.pas.earthlink.net> I'm looking for info re corn meal gluten as a pre-emergent herbicide on my bermuda grass lawn. Thanks , Colleen From oooohflowers@cox.net Fri Jan 23 02:58:31 2004 From: oooohflowers@cox.net (Ooooh Flowers!) Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 19:58:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] RE: Sick tree with light colored substance on the soil surface In-Reply-To: <200401221449.i0MEngsZ015612@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Hello Cgreer; Without knowing what kind of tree it is, we may not be of much help. Give us a good description of the tree: height, spread, size, shape and color of the leaves, bark color and texture, fruits, seeds and flower descriptions are also useful. Does it drop all of its leaves at once or is it evergreen? What symptoms does the tree show that makes you suspect that it is sick? How often do you water it? What method do you use for watering? How deeply does the water penetrate each time that you water? Has the tree been pruned recently? Is it in a lawn? Do you fertilize it? Where are you located? How long has the tree seemed sick? Is the white substance always there or does it seem to come and go? So many questions, but if you can answer them we might be able to help you identify the problem and what to do about it. Hope to hear from you soon. Kelly From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Jan 23 14:09:18 2004 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 14:09:18 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] RE: gourds Message-ID: Lots of information from the Southwest Gourd Association. http://cals.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/azgourdsoc.htm The gourds you describe might be dipper gourds - there are many different kinds of gourds. Good luck and have fun! Linda >From: LonnQual@aol.com >To: drew_linda@hotmail.com >Subject: ghords >Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 09:01:03 EST > >Hello Linda. > Can you please tell me where to get information about growing ghords? >I'd >like to grow the long stem with a ball like lower end. I don't even know >the >name of them. >Any help appreciated, THANKS!!!! > > >LonnQuall@aol.com _________________________________________________________________ High-speed users—be more efficient online with the new MSN Premium Internet Software. http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-us&page=byoa/prem&ST=1 From namaste78@cox.net Fri Jan 23 18:23:35 2004 From: namaste78@cox.net (deedee kaplan) Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 11:23:35 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] pre-emergent Message-ID: <014d01c3e1de$037b2fe0$0300a8c0@ph.cox.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_014A_01C3E1A3.56FAC620 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hello, I want to apply some sort of pre-emergent to my bermuda/St.augustine = turf lawn this Spring to help prevent the weeds that always arise (I = have flood irrigation), yet don't want to apply chemicals to my soil. = Is there an alternative other than just hand weeding (which would force = me to quit my day job)? Thanks in advance. ------=_NextPart_000_014A_01C3E1A3.56FAC620 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hello,
I want to apply some sort of = pre-emergent to my=20 bermuda/St.augustine turf lawn this Spring to help prevent the weeds = that always=20 arise (I have flood irrigation), yet don't want to apply chemicals to my = soil.  Is there an alternative other than just hand weeding (which = would=20 force me to quit my day job)?
 
Thanks in advance.
 
------=_NextPart_000_014A_01C3E1A3.56FAC620-- From lwdavidson@cableaz.com Sat Jan 24 13:47:26 2004 From: lwdavidson@cableaz.com (lwdavidson@cableaz.com) Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 06:47:26 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401241347.i0ODlQsZ015083@Ag.arizona.edu> Two questions: We bought a cactus called FIRESTICK. Pretty neat looking! Do you know what it's temperature range, particularly cold temps is? Do they do well here in Phoenix? We wanted to buy a soap tree yucca, but have been unable to find a larger one in a box. We did find a Beaked Yucca (thomsononia). Could you give your opinion on those and how they do in the desert? Many thanks. From mgtshelbel@hotmail.com Sat Jan 24 06:50:10 2004 From: mgtshelbel@hotmail.com (mgtshelbel@hotmail.com) Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 23:50:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401240650.i0O6oAsZ004922@Ag.arizona.edu> Can I grow blueberries in Arizona, I recently saw a Sunshine blue variety in Jackson & Perkins that stated it tolerated alkaline soils? From homeputter@cox.net Sat Jan 24 18:49:35 2004 From: homeputter@cox.net (homeputter@cox.net) Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 11:49:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401241849.i0OInZsZ006791@Ag.arizona.edu> 1. Why are the skins on my pink grapefruit getting so thick and wrinkled? The rinds on some are 3/4" thick. The tree is 20 years old. 2. Why are the lemons on my fruit cocktail tree dropping by the hundreds? They are golf ball size. The tree was planted 4 years ago. We have not seen a full size lemon yet. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Jan 24 23:34:59 2004 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 23:34:59 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] citrus - thick rind and fruit drop Message-ID: 1. thick skin on grapefruit Too much nitrogen fertilizer may cause thick rinds; check your fertilizing scheduling and perhaps cut back. An excellent bulletin titled Fertilizing Citrus in Arizona is available for $1.00 from U. of A. Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix Az. 85040. Some varieties have thicker skins than others. Is this the first year the skins have been thick, or are they always thick? high temperatures when the fruit is forming may affect the skin. None of these conditions harm the quality of the fruit. 2. dropping fruit Citrus do not bear much fruit until they are three to four years old. The fruit drop that you are seeing may be a natural way of ridding the tree of fruit that the tree is not strong enough to handle. What you are seeing now may be normal. Improper irrigation can also cause fruit drop. Check out this site for irrigation info: www.ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151 Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: homeputter@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 11:49:35 -0700 (MST) > >1. Why are the skins on my pink grapefruit getting so thick and wrinkled? >The rinds on some are 3/4" thick. The tree is 20 years old. > >2. Why are the lemons on my fruit cocktail tree dropping by the hundreds? >They are golf ball size. The tree was planted 4 years ago. We have not >seen a full size lemon yet. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ There are now three new levels of MSN Hotmail Extra Storage! Learn more. http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-us&page=hotmail/es2&ST=1 From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Jan 24 23:55:40 2004 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 23:55:40 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] firestick Pedianthus, Yucca thompsoniana Message-ID: Checked the web and one possibility is that firestick is a common name for slipper plant, Pedianthus macrocarpus Look at the pictures at this site to see if it fits: http://www.desert-tropicals.com/Plants/Euphorbiaceae/Pedilanthus_macrocarpus.html Beaked yucca, Yucca thompsoniana, is very similar to Yucca rostrata See Mary & Gary Irish's book, "Agaves, Yuccas and Related Plants" for complete information (pages 265-267). It is grown as an ornamental in western Texas and Oklahoma; is drought and cold tolerant; is generally 4 - 7.5 feet tall and has several branches. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: lwdavidson@cableaz.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 06:47:26 -0700 (MST) > >Two questions: > >We bought a cactus called FIRESTICK. Pretty neat looking! Do you know >what it's temperature range, particularly cold temps is? Do they do well >here in Phoenix? > >We wanted to buy a soap tree yucca, but have been unable to find a larger >one in a box. We did find a Beaked Yucca (thomsononia). Could you give >your opinion on those and how they do in the desert? > >Many thanks. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Find high-speed ‘net deals — comparison-shop your local providers here. https://broadband.msn.com From old_dawg_@webtv.net Sun Jan 25 07:41:43 2004 From: old_dawg_@webtv.net (Randy Shields) Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 01:41:43 -0600 (CST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit Trees Message-ID: <22065-40137337-11@storefull-3132.bay.webtv.net> Why would a Grapefruit tree produce fruit one year but not the next? Rand From gothamcity2000@hotmail.com Sun Jan 25 18:07:45 2004 From: gothamcity2000@hotmail.com (gothamcity2000@hotmail.com) Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 11:07:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401251807.i0PI7jsZ027723@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a 9ft tall Ficus Nitida that was planted on Fathers Day in 2002. I was out of town when the cold snap hit at the end of this past December and was unable to protect this tree from the hard frost that hit. When I came home the tree was brown around the top and sides, but now ALL the leaves have turned brown and dry and the tree looks like it is dying. The limbs still seem to be green inside and pliable etc., but there is no green at all on the outside of the tree. Is there anything I can do to save this tree? Your help is greatly appreciated as the tree was planted for a special occasion and I really love it and want to save it. Thanks! From FarmerGreg@UrbanFarm.org Sun Jan 25 17:50:36 2004 From: FarmerGreg@UrbanFarm.org (Greg) Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 10:50:36 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit Trees In-Reply-To: <22065-40137337-11@storefull-3132.bay.webtv.net> References: <22065-40137337-11@storefull-3132.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: >Why would a Grapefruit tree produce fruit one year but not the next? > >Rand Rand, Is it a fairly young tree? Sometimes when a tree is young it can struggle with producing fruit and can skip a year. Also some fruit trees produce every other year. Farmer Greg -- ***ATTENTION*** Please note my new email address. FarmerGreg@UrbanFarm.org The Urban Farm Growing good food Having fun gardening Connecting with nature Greg Peterson http://www.urbanfarm.org 602/565-7045 From CarolynHills@cox.net Sun Jan 25 19:41:14 2004 From: CarolynHills@cox.net (Carolyn Hills) Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 11:41:14 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit Trees Only Produce Fruit Every Other Year References: <22065-40137337-11@storefull-3132.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: <026b01c3e37b$31a84620$a70f6244@ph.cox.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0268_01C3E338.2341E2A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Randy: This can happen to any citrus tree. Basically, the tree is = blowing all of its fruit-producing energy the first year, and doesn't = produce the next year because it is storing up energy again. You may = want to remove some fruit early in the first year so that the tree will = have enough energy left over to produce fruit the second year. You = should also check your watering and fertilizing schedules to make sure = that the tree is getting the right amount of each to optimize fruit = production. Check out the following horticulture publications available = from the UofA Cooperative Extension: AZ1151 "Irrigating Citrus Trees" = (http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf) MC91 "Fertilizing Citrus Trees" (order from Extension Office . Send = $1.00 with your pub request to University of Arizona Cooperative = Extension, 4341 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040) Hope this helps!=20 Carolyn=20 ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Randy Shields=20 To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Saturday, January 24, 2004 11:41 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit Trees Why would a Grapefruit tree produce fruit one year but not the next? Rand _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener ------=_NextPart_000_0268_01C3E338.2341E2A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Randy: This can happen to any citrus tree. = Basically, the tree=20 is blowing all of its fruit-producing energy the first year, and doesn't = produce=20 the next year because it is storing up energy again. You may want to = remove some=20 fruit early in the first year so that the tree will have enough energy = left over=20 to produce fruit the second year.  You should also check your = watering and=20 fertilizing schedules to make sure that the tree is getting the right = amount of=20 each to optimize fruit production. Check out the following horticulture=20 publications available from the UofA Cooperative Extension:
 
AZ1151  "Irrigating Citrus = Trees"=20 (http://cals.arizon= a.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf)
MC91 "Fertilizing Citrus Trees" = (order from=20 Extension Office . Send $1.00 with your pub request to = University=20 of Arizona Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ=20 85040)
 
Hope this helps!
 
Carolyn 
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Randy=20 Shields
Sent: Saturday, January 24, = 2004 11:41=20 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Grapefruit=20 Trees

Why would a Grapefruit tree produce fruit one year but = not the=20 = next?

Rand

_______________________________________________<= BR>Arid_gardener=20 mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu=
http://Ag.A= rizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener ------=_NextPart_000_0268_01C3E338.2341E2A0-- From brhirsch@cox.net Sun Jan 25 21:11:01 2004 From: brhirsch@cox.net (brhirsch@cox.net) Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 14:11:01 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401252111.i0PLB1sZ012285@Ag.arizona.edu> We want to plant a shade tree in backyard which is irrigated in North Central Phoenix. Chinese Elm, Indian Fig, and Brazilian Pepper have all been suggested. May I please have your comments. Thank you. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Jan 25 22:05:09 2004 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 22:05:09 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] suggestions for "pot tree" Message-ID: Anteresting article! thanks for sharing it. Did you try the source mentioned at the end of the article http://www.anythinggrows.com/pages/hangers.html >From: "Scott Barvian" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] suggestions for "pot tree" >Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 12:37:42 -0700 > >Hi arid_gardeners, > >I would like to hang some potted plants (now randomly scattered >across my back yard), on my patio supports. > >I found a good solution at >http://www.tucsongardener.com/Year02/Fall2002/pottree.htm >however as the author notes, it's hard to find the pot hanging >clips. I've been everywhere and haven't found anything suitable. >Any ideas? >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Rethink your business approach for the new year with the helpful tips here. http://special.msn.com/bcentral/prep04.armx From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Jan 25 21:57:36 2004 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 21:57:36 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] corn meal gluten Message-ID: I do not have any personal experience. Try a web search on "corn meal gluten herbicide" (Using google.com I got 3600+ "hits") Some research is being done at the University of Iowa: http://www.gluten.iastate.edu/ http://www.gluten.iastate.edu/daily.html http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/greenline/99v4/gl9904.03.html Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: colleen freidberg >Reply-To: colleen freidberg >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] corn meal gluten >Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 18:15:30 -0700 (GMT-07:00) > >I'm looking for info re corn meal gluten as a pre-emergent herbicide on my >bermuda grass lawn. >Thanks , Colleen >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Scope out the new MSN Plus Internet Software — optimizes dial-up to the max! http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-us&page=byoa/plus&ST=1 From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Jan 25 22:16:07 2004 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 22:16:07 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Whether and how to trim pencil cactus after freeze Message-ID: I don't have personal experience; Mary Irish in her book, "Arizona Gardener's Guide" suggests: Prune dead or damaged stems in warm weather by cutting away at a joint. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Kelley Koehler" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Whether and how to trim pencil cactus after freeze >Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 08:09:50 -0700 > >I've got a potted pencil cactus, about 3-4 feet tall, that partially froze >on my back patio. I brought it inside the next day and the parts that >froze >are turning brown. Should I cut them off now? Where do I make the cuts? >A >good portion of the plant seems alive and well, I'd like to salvage as much >of it as I can. > > > >Thanks for the help, > >Kelley > _________________________________________________________________ High-speed users—be more efficient online with the new MSN Premium Internet Software. http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-us&page=byoa/prem&ST=1 From mhills@seedsolutions.com Sun Jan 25 23:18:40 2004 From: mhills@seedsolutions.com (Mike Hills) Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 16:18:40 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit Trees Only Produce Fruit Every Other Year In-Reply-To: <026b01c3e37b$31a84620$a70f6244@ph.cox.net> Message-ID: <008501c3e399$91cbcd60$1f6ebacd@RSIOAQ3YCFIW63> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0086_01C3E35E.E56CF560 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit A couple of other thoughts on your citrus question: A great class will be taught Feb. th per details below, and a great citrus clinic took place this weekend, plus also weekend of Jan. 31st - both of these events are more than worth the cost and time to attend to learn everything about your citrus that you have eanted to know. Details on both are shown below. Mike HIlls -------------------------------------------- http://cals.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/calendar/citrus-nw.htm Citrus Clinic January 31, 2004 - Information Website ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------ The Desert Garden Institute Public Classes Taught by Master Gardeners proudly presents Citrus Care Saturday, February 7, 2004 9:00 a.m. - 11:30 a.m. Instructor: Dr. Bob Sanowski Cost: $15 Public, No charge for Master Gardeners Location: 4341 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix To register: 602-470-8086 x 823 Oh, the sweet taste of citrus! Citrus is one of the most popular plants in the Valley. You'll be thrilled with your fabulous, tasty harvest. Learn how to select a tree and start off right when you transplant. Optimize growth and harvest through the best irrigation, fertilizing and more. ------------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------------- -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Carolyn Hills Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2004 12:41 PM To: Randy Shields; Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit Trees Only Produce Fruit Every Other Year Randy: This can happen to any citrus tree. Basically, the tree is blowing all of its fruit-producing energy the first year, and doesn't produce the next year because it is storing up energy again. You may want to remove some fruit early in the first year so that the tree will have enough energy left over to produce fruit the second year. You should also check your watering and fertilizing schedules to make sure that the tree is getting the right amount of each to optimize fruit production. Check out the following horticulture publications available from the UofA Cooperative Extension: AZ1151 "Irrigating Citrus Trees" (http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf) MC91 "Fertilizing Citrus Trees" (order from Extension Office . Send $1.00 with your pub request to University of Arizona Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040) Hope this helps! Carolyn ----- Original Message ----- From: Randy Shields To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Sent: Saturday, January 24, 2004 11:41 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit Trees Why would a Grapefruit tree produce fruit one year but not the next? Rand _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener ------=_NextPart_000_0086_01C3E35E.E56CF560 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
A=20 couple of other thoughts on your citrus question:
 
A=20 great class will be taught Feb. th per details below, and a great citrus = clinic=20 took place this weekend, plus also weekend of Jan. 31st  -  = both of=20 these events are more than worth the cost and time to attend to learn = everything=20 about your citrus that you have eanted to know.    = Details on=20 both are shown below.
 
Mike=20 HIlls
 
--------------------------------------------
=
http://cals.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/calendar/citrus-nw.htm
 
Citrus=20 Clinic January 31, 2004 -  Information Website
----------------------------------------------------------------= -------------------------------------------------------------------------= ---------------------------------
The Desert Garden=20 Institute
Public Classes Taught by Master Gardeners
proudly=20 presents

Citrus=20 Care

Saturday, February = 7,=20 2004
9:00 a.m. - 11:30 a.m.
Instructor:  Dr. Bob = Sanowski

 

Cost:  = $15 Public, No=20 charge for Master Gardeners
Location:  4341 E. Broadway Road,=20 Phoenix

To register:  602-470-8086 x 823
<ainsley@azorchids.com>

Oh, the sweet taste of citrus! Citrus is one of = the most=20 popular plants in the Valley. You'll be thrilled with your fabulous, = tasty=20 harvest. Learn how to select a tree and start off right when you = transplant.=20 Optimize growth and harvest through the best irrigation, fertilizing and = more.
-------------------------------------------
 
----------------------------------------------
-----Original Message-----
From:=20 arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu=20 [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Carolyn = Hills
Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2004 12:41 PM
To: = Randy=20 Shields; Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: Re: = [Arid_gardener]=20 Grapefruit Trees Only Produce Fruit Every Other = Year

Randy: This can happen to any citrus tree. = Basically, the=20 tree is blowing all of its fruit-producing energy the first year, and = doesn't=20 produce the next year because it is storing up energy again. You may = want to=20 remove some fruit early in the first year so that the tree will have = enough=20 energy left over to produce fruit the second year.  You should = also check=20 your watering and fertilizing schedules to make sure that the tree is = getting=20 the right amount of each to optimize fruit production. Check out the = following=20 horticulture publications available from the UofA Cooperative=20 Extension:
 
AZ1151  "Irrigating Citrus = Trees"=20 (http://cals.arizon= a.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf)
MC91 "Fertilizing Citrus Trees" = (order from=20 Extension Office . Send $1.00 with your pub request to=20 University of Arizona Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway Road, = Phoenix,=20 AZ 85040)
 
Hope this helps!
 
Carolyn 
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Randy=20 Shields
To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= =20
Sent: Saturday, January 24, = 2004 11:41=20 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Grapefruit=20 Trees

Why would a Grapefruit tree produce fruit one year = but not=20 the=20 = next?

Rand

_______________________________________________<= BR>Arid_gardener=20 mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu=
http://Ag.A= rizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener ------=_NextPart_000_0086_01C3E35E.E56CF560-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Jan 26 14:33:25 2004 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 14:33:25 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] pre-emergent Message-ID: Hand-weeding while weeds are small is effective; pre-emergents are also successful but are chemicals that you apply to the soil. Some research has been done recently at the U. of Iowa with corn meal gluten as a pre-emergent herbicide. I do not have any information about how effective this might be. Try a web search on "corn meal gluten herbicide" (Using google.com I got 3600+ "hits") Information at the University of Iowa: http://www.gluten.iastate.edu/ http://www.gluten.iastate.edu/daily.html http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/greenline/99v4/gl9904.03.html Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "deedee kaplan" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] pre-emergent >Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 11:23:35 -0700 > >Hello, >I want to apply some sort of pre-emergent to my bermuda/St.augustine turf >lawn this Spring to help prevent the weeds that always arise (I have flood >irrigation), yet don't want to apply chemicals to my soil. Is there an >alternative other than just hand weeding (which would force me to quit my >day job)? > >Thanks in advance. _________________________________________________________________ Get a FREE online virus check for your PC here, from McAfee. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 From mhills@seedsolutions.com Mon Jan 26 02:39:31 2004 From: mhills@seedsolutions.com (Mike Hills) Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 19:39:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] pre-emergent herbicide lawns organic In-Reply-To: <014d01c3e1de$037b2fe0$0300a8c0@ph.cox.net> Message-ID: <00d701c3e3b5$a126b4c0$1f6ebacd@RSIOAQ3YCFIW63> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00D8_01C3E37A.F4C7DCC0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello Deedee Kaplan Last week I would have said - "No, just plan to use a herbicide, many brands available." But, we have recently heard about an organic product that may be worth your consideration - Corn Gluten Meal. This is not regular corn meal in your pantry, but a special part of the corn kernel, and according to the information below works very well on emerging seedlings in your lawn, gravel, garden, etc. Information and details can be obtained at these websites. Please keep us posted on your results this spring as you battle the crabgrass and spurge seedlings in your lawn. I work in the turfgrass industry, so will be very interested to hear how you do. Respond to arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu Mike Hills Master Gardener Volunteer, Maricopa County http://www.uwex.edu/ces/wihort/turf/CornGluten.htm http://www.gluten.iastate.edu/daily.html -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of deedee kaplan Sent: Friday, January 23, 2004 11:24 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] pre-emergent Hello, I want to apply some sort of pre-emergent to my bermuda/St.augustine turf lawn this Spring to help prevent the weeds that always arise (I have flood irrigation), yet don't want to apply chemicals to my soil. Is there an alternative other than just hand weeding (which would force me to quit my day job)? Thanks in advance. ------=_NextPart_000_00D8_01C3E37A.F4C7DCC0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hello=20 Deedee Kaplan    
 
Last=20 week I would have said - "No, just plan to use a herbicide, = many=20 brands available."      But, we have recently = heard=20 about an organic product that may be worth your consideration - Corn = Gluten=20 Meal.    This is not regular corn meal in your pantry, = but a=20 special part of the corn kernel, and according to the information below = works=20 very well on emerging seedlings in your lawn, gravel, garden,=20 etc.
 
Information and details can be obtained at these=20 websites.     Please keep us posted on your results = this=20 spring as you battle the crabgrass and spurge seedlings in your=20 lawn.    I work in the turfgrass industry, so will be = very=20 interested to hear how you do.   Respond to arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu=
 
Mike=20 Hills
Master=20 Gardener Volunteer, Maricopa County
 

http://www.uwex.edu/ces/wihort/turf/CornGluten.htm

http://www.gluten.iastate.edu/daily.html
 
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From:=20 arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu=20 [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of deedee=20 kaplan
Sent: Friday, January 23, 2004 11:24 AM
To: = arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: [Arid_gardener]=20 pre-emergent

Hello,
I want to apply some sort of = pre-emergent to my=20 bermuda/St.augustine turf lawn this Spring to help prevent the weeds = that=20 always arise (I have flood irrigation), yet don't want to apply = chemicals to=20 my soil.  Is there an alternative other than just hand weeding = (which=20 would force me to quit my day job)?
 
Thanks in advance.
 
------=_NextPart_000_00D8_01C3E37A.F4C7DCC0-- From mhills@seedsolutions.com Mon Jan 26 02:23:38 2004 From: mhills@seedsolutions.com (Mike Hills) Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 19:23:38 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] corn meal gluten herbicide lawns In-Reply-To: <4177623.1074820530424.JavaMail.root@bert.psp.pas.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <00b001c3e3b3$690d8250$1f6ebacd@RSIOAQ3YCFIW63> Colleen - in my "real life" job, I work in the professional turfgrass industry so your inquiry seemed way out at first - I had never heard of such a use for Corn Gluten. However, I did a search and researched your question. Reading over the websites below, and comparing this information to my other existing herbicide knowledge, it does sound like this might work. It will not kill existing weeds, just new emerging seedlings. So your interest in using it on your bermuda lawn to prevent weed seedling emergence sounds like it fits perfectly. Especially for a spring application when crabgrass and spurge are common weeds sprouting from seeds in your bermuda lawn. Below are some sites with more details on this use. Please report back to Arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu after you use the product - we would all like to hear how successful this is. Keep us posted, Mike Hills Master Gardener Volunteer, Maricopa County http://www.uwex.edu/ces/wihort/turf/CornGluten.htm http://www.gluten.iastate.edu/daily.html -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of colleen freidberg Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2004 6:16 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] corn meal gluten I'm looking for info re corn meal gluten as a pre-emergent herbicide on my bermuda grass lawn. Thanks , Colleen _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From mhills@seedsolutions.com Mon Jan 26 01:04:30 2004 From: mhills@seedsolutions.com (Mike Hills) Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 18:04:30 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] shrubs & hibiscus In-Reply-To: <176.24836d24.2d429b96@aol.com> Message-ID: <009101c3e3a8$5b29c1e0$1f6ebacd@RSIOAQ3YCFIW63> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0092_01C3E36D.AECAE9E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dave First an answer to your hibiscus question. Do not prune or transplant yet - if you do either while it is still cold, and we still have chance of a frost, then it is fairly certain the plants will die. You could do a light pruning now for appearance, but DO NOT remove more than 10% of the frosted growth at this time. Removing more growth, and a warm weather spell could stimulate new growth which will be very tender to the next frost period. Our frost dates historically in Maricopa County can go as late as March 1st, so be cautious. Usually it is best to wait unti lnew buds start to emerge and regrow, PLUS make sure it is safely past the frost dates in Spring, before you prune the dead and frozen growth back to the new growth. March 6th, the Desert Gardening Institute has a specialty class available on growing hibiscus in the low desert - see this webpage for details on this class and many other upcoming topics. These classes are excellent with great knowledge and resources to take home. This would give you all the insider scoop and tips on growing your hibiscus here and keeping them happy, healthy and blooming profusely in our stressful climate. http://cals.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/calendar/PublicClasses2004.pdf On your other request, a couple of suggestions are noted below for your southwest facing wall spot to plant a new shrub. First, contact your Valley city's Water Conservation office - check the yellow pages under government. They have a nice booklet put out by the Arizona Municipal Water User's Association that shows color photos and full details on recommended shrubs, trees, vines, groundcovers, etc. for the Low Desert growing climate. You can also pick these booklets up sometimes in area garden centers and nurseries to keep as a useful resource for future garden planning. The booklet has been out for several years now, and a recently updated version just came from the publishers. This booklet is great in showing you what the plants look like mature, plus giving details on exposure (sun/shade), water needs, blooms, etc. You may also want to go to the Desert Botanical Garden in Phoenix with notepad in hand - tour around, looking at shrubs with similar location to where you want to plant at your house - jot down some plants you see and check out details on the plant later, or ask one of the garden docents for more information on the plants you see that are of interest. And consider checking with the Desert Botanical Garden for their series of classes on landscape planning and plant choices for the Low Desert. www.dbg.org >From my own favorites, here are some plants to consider that are readily available from local garden centers, or at the upcoming March plant sales of the Desert Botanical Garden, Boyce Thompson Arboretum, Tucson Botanical Garden and other arboretums and demonstration gardens in our state. You can also check out the Interpretive Trail landscape at the Maricopa County Extension office (4341 East Broadway Rd, Phoenix) - a low maintenance planting of labeled low water and desert adapted plants. This will give you some more ideas of plant size, form, flower color, etc. Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) Many different rosemary varieties are available and all do very well in the Low Desert. Check the label for mature size, and be sure that the plant says "upright", rather than "prostrate" - the prostrate varieties only grow 2-3 feet tall, but spread very wide - even up to 6 feet across. Rosemary varieties bloom in a range of flower colors from white to lavender to blue, and all have variations of the great rosemary smell. In addition, all varieties can be used in the kitchen, on the barbecue or in flower arrangements. Your favorite nursery or garden center will have many different varieties available for your to choose amongst. Your rosemary plant will have much longer life if you add some coarse gravel and sand to the planting hole, and plan to definitely reduce or even remove the drippers once the plant is established - excessive watering, or poorly drained soil are the main reasons for rosemary death in the Low Desert. Otherwise, rosemary loves the heat and our alkaline soils. http://www.desert-tropicals.com/Plants/Lamiaceae/Rosmarinus_officinalis.html 'Torchglow' variety Bougainvillea (Bougainvillea brasiliensis 'Torchglow') This is an upright shrub type that loves a southwest, hot exposure and blooms freely for about 9 months of the year with beautiful dark pink/rose blooms. Can get some frost damage that is easily trimmed off once frost danger is past. The plant grows about 5 feet tall and 4-5 feet wide and eaily kept trimmed into the size you want. Tons of blooms all along the upright stems, especially on the tips. Put a couple of drippers from your irrigation system about 8-10 inches from the trunk after planting and keep watered several times per week for the first year. After that, you should reduce the water to once a week or even less - the plant actually blooms better with less water, and less water will keep it from outgrowing your space. Readily available in 1 and 5 gallon sizes - prefers planting after frost danger is past and warmer temperatures are headed back. http://www.desert-tropicals.com/Plants/Nyctaginaceae/Bougainvillea_Torch_Glo w.html http://ag.arizona.edu/classes/lar520/unit1/bougbras.htm Mexican Bush Sage (Salvia leucantha) - this heat loving shrub grows 3-4 feet tall and about 3-4 feet wide with long stems of dark purple flowers that hummingbirds love to visit - blooms almost 10 months of the year. This plant needs excellent drainage, so please build up a mound about 1 foot tall and several feet wide, incorporating some coarse gravel or sand to improve drainage. Then dig a deep hole, add more gravel and sand to the bottom of the hole and plant the 1 gallon plant even with the surface of the raised mound. Add a dripper about 6-8 inches from the plant trunk. As the plant matures, and old stalks are bloomed out, they should be cut one at a time to about 4-6 inches from the soil, to allow new stalks to replace them. http://www.mswn.com/MSWNmasterplantlist%20S.htm#Salvia%20leucantha Cape Honeysuckle (Tecomaria capensis) A nice old-fashioned plant with wonderful orange blooms loved by hummingbirds. Blooms almost year round, except when very cold when it may occasionally be damaged by severe frosts. This plant is loose growing. and needs a little more pruning to maintain size and shape. Again, put 1-2 drippers on the new plant when planted and then reduce the watering when the plant is established - the lower water will slow the growth. A once per year spring heavy pruning will help to keep the plant productive and blooming longer. Many people prune this plant to grow taller, even up to the eaves of a 1-story house, for more blooms. http://ag.arizona.edu/classes/lar520/unit2/tecocape.htm http://www.desert-tropicals.com/Plants/Bignoniaceae/Tecomaria_capensis.html 'Yellow Bells' (Tecoma stans) Available in several different color forms (yellow, orange, bi-color), this is a fantastic shrub of varying sizes - some can grow up to 6-8 feet tall if not pruned once in a while. Generally a tall shrub, somewhat evergreen although it is frost tender. Usually grows about 3-4 feet wide if not pruned and trimmed back. Start with a 1 or 5 gallon size plant in improved soil and with 1 or 2 drippers 6-8 inches from the trunk. Once established, you can reduce the watering frequency. http://ag.arizona.edu/classes/lar520/unit1/tecostan.htm Hope this gives you some ideas and guidance. Mike Hills Master Gardener Volunteer, Maricopa County -----Original Message----- From: bestcook2x@aol.com [mailto:bestcook2x@aol.com] Sent: Friday, January 23, 2004 8:45 AM To: mhills@seedsolutions.com Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Dear Mike, Thanks for your response. No higher than 5 ft high. Can be 4-5 feet in diameter. I would have no problem installing a continuation of my existing drip system. The soil has been added to, but I could add nutrients and soil lightener (peat moss or such) as needed. When will the best time to plant your suggestion. In an unrelated area, when is the best time to transplant Hibiscus? Also, they were wacked pretty good by a frost several weeks ago. Will that be cause of a problem? Thanks, Dave Lickwar ------=_NextPart_000_0092_01C3E36D.AECAE9E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Dave
 
First=20 an answer to your hibiscus question.   Do not prune or = transplant=20 yet - if you do either while it is still cold, and we still have chance = of=20 a frost, then it is fairly certain the plants will = die.   =20 You could do a light pruning now for appearance, but DO NOT remove more = than 10%=20 of the frosted growth at this time.    Removing more = growth, and=20 a warm weather spell could stimulate new growth which will be very = tender to the=20 next frost period.    Our frost dates historically in = Maricopa=20 County can go as late as March 1st, so be cautious.   Usually = it is=20 best to wait unti lnew buds start to emerge and regrow, PLUS make sure = it is=20 safely past the frost dates in Spring, before you prune the dead and = frozen=20 growth back to the new growth.
 
March=20 6th, the Desert Gardening Institute has a specialty class available on = growing=20 hibiscus in the low desert - see this webpage for details on this class = and many=20 other upcoming topics.   These classes are excellent with = great=20 knowledge and resources to take home.    This would give = you all=20 the insider scoop and tips on growing your hibiscus here and keeping = them happy,=20 healthy and blooming profusely in our stressful = climate.
 
http://cals.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/calendar/PublicC= lasses2004.pdf
 
On=20 your other request, a couple of suggestions are noted below for your = southwest=20 facing wall spot to plant a new shrub.    =
 
First,=20 contact your Valley city's Water Conservation office - check the yellow = pages=20 under government.     They have a nice booklet put = out by=20 the Arizona Municipal Water User's Association that shows color photos = and full=20 details on recommended shrubs, trees, vines, groundcovers, etc. for the = Low=20 Desert growing climate.    You can also pick these = booklets up=20 sometimes in area garden centers and nurseries to keep as a useful = resource for=20 future garden planning.    The booklet has been out for = several=20 years now, and a recently updated version just came from the=20 publishers.    This booklet is great in showing you what = the=20 plants look like mature, plus giving details on exposure (sun/shade), = water=20 needs, blooms, etc.
 
You=20 may also want to go to the Desert Botanical Garden in Phoenix with = notepad in=20 hand - tour around, looking at shrubs with similar location to where you = want to=20 plant at your house - jot down some plants you see and check out details = on the=20 plant later, or ask one of the garden docents for more information on = the plants=20 you see that are of interest.   And consider checking with the = Desert=20 Botanical Garden for their series of classes on landscape planning and = plant=20 choices for the Low Desert.
www.dbg.org
 
From=20 my own favorites, here are some plants to consider that are readily = available=20 from local garden centers, or at the upcoming March plant sales of the = Desert=20 Botanical Garden, Boyce Thompson Arboretum, Tucson Botanical = Garden and=20 other arboretums and demonstration gardens in our = state.    You=20 can also check out the Interpretive Trail landscape at the Maricopa = County=20 Extension office (4341 East Broadway Rd, Phoenix) - a low maintenance = planting=20 of labeled low water and desert adapted plants.  This will give you = some=20 more ideas of plant size, form, flower color, etc.
 
Rosemary (Rosmarinus = officinalis)
Many=20 different rosemary varieties are available and all do very well in the = Low=20 Desert.    Check the label for mature size, and be sure = that the=20 plant says "upright", rather than "prostrate" - the prostrate varieties = only=20 grow 2-3 feet tall, but spread very wide - even up to 6 feet=20 across.    Rosemary varieties bloom in a range of flower = colors=20 from white to lavender to blue, and all have variations of the great = rosemary=20 smell.    In addition, all varieties can be used in the = kitchen,=20 on the barbecue or in flower arrangements.    Your = favorite=20 nursery or garden center will have many different varieties available = for your=20 to choose amongst.   Your rosemary plant will have much longer = life if=20 you add some coarse gravel and sand to the planting hole, and plan to = definitely=20 reduce or even remove the drippers once the plant is established - = excessive=20 watering, or poorly drained soil are the main reasons for rosemary = death in=20 the Low Desert.   Otherwise, rosemary loves the heat and our = alkaline=20 soils.
http://www.desert-tropicals.com/Plants/Lamiaceae/Rosmarinus_= officinalis.html
 
'Torchglow' variety Bougainvillea = (Bougainvillea=20 brasiliensis 'Torchglow')
This=20 is an upright shrub type that loves a southwest, hot exposure and blooms = freely=20 for about 9 months of the year with beautiful dark pink/rose = blooms.  =20 Can get some frost damage that is easily trimmed off once frost danger = is=20 past.    The plant grows about 5 feet tall and 4-5 feet = wide and=20 eaily kept trimmed into the size you want.    Tons of = blooms all=20 along the upright stems, especially on the tips.   Put a = couple of=20 drippers from your irrigation system about 8-10 inches from the trunk = after=20 planting and keep watered several times per week for the first=20 year.    After that, you should reduce the water to once = a week=20 or even less - the plant actually blooms better with less water, and = less water=20 will keep it from outgrowing your space.    Readily = available in=20 1 and 5 gallon sizes - prefers planting after frost danger is past and = warmer=20 temperatures are headed back.
http://www.desert-tropicals.com/Plants/Nyctaginaceae/B= ougainvillea_Torch_Glow.html
http://a= g.arizona.edu/classes/lar520/unit1/bougbras.htm
 
Mexican Bush Sage (Salvia leucantha) - this = heat loving=20 shrub grows 3-4 feet tall and about 3-4 feet wide with long stems of = dark purple=20 flowers that hummingbirds love to visit - blooms almost 10 months of the = year.    This plant needs excellent drainage, so please = build up=20 a mound about 1 foot tall and several feet wide, incorporating some = coarse=20 gravel or sand to improve drainage.    Then dig a deep = hole, add=20 more gravel and sand to the bottom of the hole and plant the 1 gallon = plant even=20 with the surface of the raised mound.   Add a dripper about = 6-8 inches=20 from the plant trunk.     As the plant matures, and = old=20 stalks are bloomed out, they should be cut one at a time to about 4-6 = inches=20 from the soil, to allow new stalks to replace them.
http://www.mswn.com/MSWNmasterplantlist%20S.htm#Salvia%20leucantha=
 
Cape=20 Honeysuckle (Tecomaria capensis)
A nice=20 old-fashioned plant with wonderful orange blooms loved by=20 hummingbirds.    Blooms almost year round, except when = very cold=20 when it may occasionally be damaged by severe = frosts.    =20 This plant is loose growing. and needs a little more pruning to maintain = size=20 and shape.   Again, put 1-2 drippers on the new plant when = planted and=20 then reduce the watering when the plant is established - the lower water = will=20 slow the growth.    A once per year spring heavy pruning = will=20 help to keep the plant productive and blooming longer.    = Many=20 people prune this plant to grow taller, even up to the eaves of a = 1-story=20 house, for more blooms.
http://a= g.arizona.edu/classes/lar520/unit2/tecocape.htm
http://www.desert-tropicals.com/Plants/Bignoniaceae/Tecomaria= _capensis.html
 
'Yellow Bells' (Tecoma = stans)
Available in several different color forms = (yellow,=20 orange, bi-color), this is a fantastic shrub of varying sizes - some can = grow up=20 to 6-8 feet tall if not pruned once in a while.    = Generally a=20 tall shrub, somewhat evergreen although it is frost = tender.   =20 Usually grows about 3-4 feet wide if not pruned and trimmed=20 back.    Start with a 1 or 5 gallon size plant in = improved soil=20 and with 1 or 2 drippers 6-8 inches from the trunk.   Once=20 established, you can reduce the watering frequency.
http://a= g.arizona.edu/classes/lar520/unit1/tecostan.htm
 
 
 
 
Hope=20 this gives you some ideas and guidance.
Mike=20 Hills
Master=20 Gardener Volunteer, Maricopa County
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: bestcook2x@aol.com = [mailto:bestcook2x@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, January 23, 2004 = 8:45=20 AM
To: mhills@seedsolutions.com
Subject: Re:=20 [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW = page

Dear Mike,
  Thanks for your response.  No = higher=20 than 5 ft high.  Can be 4-5 feet in diameter.
I would have no = problem=20 installing a continuation of my existing drip system.  The soil = has been=20 added to, but I could add nutrients and soil lightener (peat moss or = such) as=20 needed. When will the best time to plant your = suggestion.
   In=20 an unrelated area, when is the best time to transplant Hibiscus? Also, = they=20 were wacked pretty good by a frost several weeks ago.  Will that = be cause=20 of a=20 = problem?
          &= nbsp; =20        =       =20        =       =20       =20 = Thanks,
          &n= bsp; =20        =       =20        =       =20        Dave=20 Lickwar
------=_NextPart_000_0092_01C3E36D.AECAE9E0-- From mhills@seedsolutions.com Mon Jan 26 01:29:32 2004 From: mhills@seedsolutions.com (Mike Hills) Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 18:29:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] bermudagrass removal In-Reply-To: <200401140343.i0E3hutg023282@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <009a01c3e3ab$daf1ac50$1f6ebacd@RSIOAQ3YCFIW63> Pam - removing bermudagrass completely takes a little time and effort, but can be done successfully. Most people give up too early, without finishing the whole process - something like not taking your entire antibiotics prescription. Organic method - SHADE - effective over time. First, dig out what you can easily reach of the remaining bermuda patches. re-level the soil. Bermudagrass cannot tolerate shade or lack of light. Obtain some thick black plastic and cover the bermuda area completely blocking out the light, and bury the edges of the plastic for a light-proof seal. As the bermuda plants try to regrow from their underground stems, they will slowly starve to death from lack of light. You should be able to remove the plastic after 2-3 months - DO NOT leave the plastic in place longer than that, as it will be blocking water, air and oxygen needed in the soil by your trees. If the bermuda re-sprouts, then immediately cover it again to finish starving the bermuda crowns. More effective method - Glyphospate herbicide - RoundUp and similar brands available at any garden center or nursery. Please read the label instructions carefully. First you need to pull or clip off al the existing stems of bermuda that are showing - the old, mature stems are impossible to kill with a herbicide. Then water the area well over the next couple of months - this is the mistake most people make, thinking since they are killing it they should starve the bermuda for water. If the bermuda is stressed, it will retreat into the crowns and underground stems and be impossible to reach with your herbicide. Once some new, succulent green growth pops up again (March or April) you need to add a tablespoon of liquid dish soap per gallon of Glyphosphate solution in your sprayer - the soap helps the herbicide stick to the bermuda leaves for better absorption. Spray the herbicide on a warm sunny day, with no wind and allow the plant to absorb it well - DO NOT allow any spray to drift to the leaves or green stems of nearby plants - it will not harm the lower bark trunks of your trees, if you spray the bermuda up against the trunks. DO NOT pull or remove any of the exposed bermuda stems for 2-4 weeks / removing the stems too early will reduce the effectiveness of your treatment - wait until the stems are totally dead and brown. Then remove them and again add water - this will stimulate any remaining live shoots to emerge from underground. Again, spray them with the soap + glyphosphate solution on the succulent green growth once it reaches 3-4 inches tall. Same process wait until dead before pulling the stems out. You may need to go one more time to get the last bits. Just keep in mind that the herbicide works only on juicy succulent bermuda growth, and keep your eyes peeled for any more stray stems that pop up in future. Kill them while they are still small and before they have a chance to build up a mature crown. Good Luck, Mike Hills Master Gardener Volunteer, Maricopa County -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of pspiegl@cox.net Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2004 8:44 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hi, We used to have bermuda grass in our back yard. We then decided to convert our back yard to desert landscaping using rock. Our back yard is entirely rock now except for two mesquite trees and a fountain between the two mesquite trees. Weeds in the back yard are not that bothersome and we can handle those. However, the biggest problem we have in our backyard is grass growing around the trees. Can you give us some ideas on how to get rid of the bermuda grass growing at the base of our trees? If we can't get rid of the grass, what is the best way to keep the grass under control? Thanks for any help you can give us. Pam _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Chrissb@cox.net Mon Jan 26 04:21:04 2004 From: Chrissb@cox.net (Rich & Chriss Bahto) Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 21:21:04 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Firestick Euphorbia tirucalli "Rosea" Message-ID: The plant that I have always known as Firstick or Sticks on Fire is Euphorbia Tirucalli "Rosea" a variation of what is commonly refered to as Pencil Cactus. It does very well here in the sun with some afternoon shade. Drought and cold tolerant to 25 degrees. Can grow to tree size with time. The Desert Botanical Gardens has an enormous specimen of E. tirucalli in it's Succulent House. The best picture I could find of E. Tirucalli "Rosea" can be found at www.Shoalcreeksucculents.com/cgi-bin/webmastercart/WMCshop.pl?action=dbview& id=203377&list=category Christine Bahto Master Gardener From mhills@seedsolutions.com Mon Jan 26 01:38:09 2004 From: mhills@seedsolutions.com (Mike Hills) Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 18:38:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] citrus - thick rind and fruit drop In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <00a001c3e3ad$0e2bba60$1f6ebacd@RSIOAQ3YCFIW63> Hello Home Putter If you would like to learn a lot more details on growing the healthiest and most productive citrus trees, consider our upcoming Public Citrus Clini event on January 31st AND our class on Growing and choosing citrus for this area taught February 7th. Both have small fees involved, but you will go away with fantastic information and resources. Details on both are shown below. You may want to bring some examples of your grapefruits and lemons to show and discuss in more detail in person Mike HIlls -------------------------------------------- http://cals.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/calendar/citrus-nw.htm Citrus Clinic January 31, 2004 - Information Website ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------ The Desert Garden Institute Public Classes Taught by Master Gardeners proudly presents Citrus Care Saturday, February 7, 2004 9:00 a.m. - 11:30 a.m. Instructor: Dr. Bob Sanowski Cost: $15 Public, No charge for Master Gardeners Location: 4341 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix To register: 602-470-8086 x 823 Oh, the sweet taste of citrus! Citrus is one of the most popular plants in the Valley. You'll be thrilled with your fabulous, tasty harvest. Learn how to select a tree and start off right when you transplant. Optimize growth and harvest through the best irrigation, fertilizing and more. -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Linda Drew Sent: Saturday, January 24, 2004 4:35 PM To: homeputter@cox.net; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] citrus - thick rind and fruit drop 1. thick skin on grapefruit Too much nitrogen fertilizer may cause thick rinds; check your fertilizing scheduling and perhaps cut back. An excellent bulletin titled Fertilizing Citrus in Arizona is available for $1.00 from U. of A. Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix Az. 85040. Some varieties have thicker skins than others. Is this the first year the skins have been thick, or are they always thick? high temperatures when the fruit is forming may affect the skin. None of these conditions harm the quality of the fruit. 2. dropping fruit Citrus do not bear much fruit until they are three to four years old. The fruit drop that you are seeing may be a natural way of ridding the tree of fruit that the tree is not strong enough to handle. What you are seeing now may be normal. Improper irrigation can also cause fruit drop. Check out this site for irrigation info: www.ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151 Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: homeputter@cox.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2004 11:49:35 -0700 (MST) > >1. Why are the skins on my pink grapefruit getting so thick and wrinkled? >The rinds on some are 3/4" thick. The tree is 20 years old. > >2. Why are the lemons on my fruit cocktail tree dropping by the hundreds? >They are golf ball size. The tree was planted 4 years ago. We have not >seen a full size lemon yet. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ There are now three new levels of MSN Hotmail Extra Storage! Learn more. http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-us&page=hotmail/es2&ST=1 _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From pnl2002@mpinet.net Mon Jan 26 15:27:28 2004 From: pnl2002@mpinet.net (PATRICIA LAPALME) Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 10:27:28 -0500 Subject: [Arid_gardener] citrus tree??? Message-ID: <410-220041126152728352@mpinet.net> ------=_NextPart_84815C5ABAF209EF376268C8 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Greetings, Can you help us? We have a "fruit cocktail" tree - graphs of grapefruit and 2 types of oranges. The tree is about 4 years old and in the ground for 2 years. It has grown quite a bit and only this year has produced some grapefruit and we currently see a few smaller oranges. We live in central Florida where we might get a few nights of frost. We have protected the tree so far so it has had minimal damage from cold weather. But we don't know when the grapefruit should be picked and we don't know how to prune the tree. Some branches are dripping close to the ground, and we have had damage from mites. We have sprayed with Volck but stopped early in Dec as someone told us to let the tree settle for the winter. But now we heard that we should trim it in Feb. So can you help us? Thank you Pat PATRICIA LAPALME pnl2002@mpinet.net Why Wait? Move to EarthLink. ------=_NextPart_84815C5ABAF209EF376268C8 Content-Type: text/html; charset=US-ASCII

Greetings,
Can you help us?  We have a "fruit cocktail" tree - graphs of grapefruit and 2 types of oranges.  The tree is about 4 years old and in the ground for 2 years.  It has grown quite a bit and only this year has produced some grapefruit and we currently see a few smaller oranges.  We live in central Florida where we might get a few nights of frost.  We have protected the tree so far so it has had minimal damage from cold weather.  But we don't know when the grapefruit should be picked and we don't know how to prune the tree.  Some branches are dripping close to the ground, and we have had damage from mites.  We have sprayed with Volck but stopped early in Dec as someone told us to let the tree settle for the winter.  But now we heard that we should trim it in Feb.  So can you help us?  Thank you  Pat
 
 
PATRICIA LAPALME
Why Wait? Move to EarthLink.
 

------=_NextPart_84815C5ABAF209EF376268C8-- From ESAND1218@aol.com Mon Jan 26 20:22:35 2004 From: ESAND1218@aol.com (ESAND1218@aol.com) Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 13:22:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401262022.i0QKMZsZ008510@Ag.arizona.edu> Is there a remedy for Scaly bark psorasis on Citrus e.g. grapefruit tree, or should I remove the tree. I note the same condition starting on orange trees. The trees are 26 years old. Thanks. From LBradley@cals.arizona.edu Mon Jan 26 21:18:12 2004 From: LBradley@cals.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 14:18:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Jan/Feb Maricopa County Master Gardener Journal Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20040126141625.01f51c70@cals.arizona.edu> --=====================_21379181==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Greetings, The January/February Maricopa County Master Gardener Journal is now available on-line! http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/mgjournal.htm The Journal may be opened on-line and you may print it in color free of charge. If you have any questions about how to open Master Gardener Journal on line, please contact The Master Gardener Desk 602-470-8086 ext 301. Due to the high resolution of the images and the length of the document you may experience long download times if you are using a dial up modem. Avoid the wait by ordering a hard copy subscription to be mailed to you. If you would prefer to receive a black and white printed copy of the journal delivered to your door, you may want to purchase a subscription. Rate for the public: $18 for 6 issues. Rate for active Master Gardeners: $15 for 6 issues. Send name, mailing address, and check payable to University of Arizona. Mail to: Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, ATTN: MG Journal Subscriptions, 4341 E. Broadway Rd., Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807. Enjoy! Lucy ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert. "The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona." ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: LBradley@cals.arizona.edu http://cals.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ http://cals.arizona.edu/youthgardens Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert. "The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona." ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ --=====================_21379181==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Greetings,

The January/February Maricopa County Master Gardener Journal is now available on-line!
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/mgjournal.htm
The Journal may be opened on-line and you may print it in color free of charge.

If you have any questions about how to open Master Gardener Journal on line, please contact The Master Gardener Desk 602-470-8086 ext 301.

Due to the high resolution of the images and the length of the document you may experience long download times if you are using a dial up modem. Avoid the wait by ordering a hard copy subscription to be mailed  to you. If you would prefer to receive a black and white printed copy of the journal delivered to your door, you may want to purchase a subscription.


Rate for the public: $18 for 6 issues.
Rate for active Master Gardeners: $15 for 6 issues.

Send name, mailing address, and check payable to University of Arizona. Mail to: Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, ATTN: MG Journal Subscriptions, 4341 E. Broadway Rd., Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807.


Enjoy!

Lucy


 ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ  85040-8807

Phone:  (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax:  (602) 470-8092
email:  BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/
http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens

Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program
To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert.

"The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona."
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ  85040-8807

Phone:  (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax:  (602) 470-8092
email:  LBradley@cals.arizona.edu
http://cals.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/
http://cals.arizona.edu/youthgardens

Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program
To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert.

"The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona."
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


--=====================_21379181==_.ALT-- From Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com Mon Jan 26 17:58:49 2004 From: Alan.Zelhart@motorola.com (Zelhart Alan-rpcs30) Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 10:58:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] shrubs & hibiscus Message-ID: <37019C4D4EBED511A98100D0B7B9930708E69322@az33exm25.corp.mot.com> Yes, I had ice here too. Third time this winter. I did have this gut instinct to cover my plants, I'm glad I did. The weatherman had reported it would only get down to 33 degrees here, but my thermo said 30. -- Chat with you later, Alan -- Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.GardenersCorner.com ----- Alan Zelhart gizmoaz@cox.net Gardens Co-listowner http://www.gardenerscorner.com/notes.html ----- ***** Wasting time is an important part of living. -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu] On Behalf Of olin Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2004 10:18 AM To: mhills@seedsolutions.com; bestcook2x@aol.com; Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] shrubs & hibiscus ----- Original Message -----From: "Mike Hills" >..we still have chance of a > frost, ... There was ice in our birdbath this morning. -Olin . _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From candicesherrill@cox.net Mon Jan 26 22:15:39 2004 From: candicesherrill@cox.net (Candice Sherrill) Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 15:15:39 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [MG] Jan/Feb Maricopa County Master Gardener Journal References: <5.1.0.14.2.20040126141625.01f51c70@cals.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <001201c3e459$ee634010$6400a8c0@billzoer9t52xy> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C3E41F.41D011A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi Everyone Just a quick note: this link will take you to the Aug/Sep 2003 issue. = If you click on "Archive" in the list on the left-hand side of the page, = you'll see the Jan/Feb 2004 link at the top of the page that opens. It looks wonderful, Tyler and Heidi, wherever you are. Congratulations = on your first big issue! Candice Sherrill ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Lucy Bradley=20 To: maricopa-mg@Ag.arizona.edu ; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu ; = azhort@Ag.arizona.edu ; sfarlin@Ag.arizona.edu ; jimc@Ag.arizona.edu ; = djyoung@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Monday, January 26, 2004 2:18 PM Subject: [MG] Jan/Feb Maricopa County Master Gardener Journal Greetings, The January/February Maricopa County Master Gardener Journal is now = available on-line!=20 http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/mgjournal.htm=20 The Journal may be opened on-line and you may print it in color free = of charge. If you have any questions about how to open Master Gardener Journal on = line, please contact The Master Gardener Desk 602-470-8086 ext 301. Due to the high resolution of the images and the length of the = document you may experience long download times if you are using a dial = up modem. Avoid the wait by ordering a hard copy subscription to be = mailed to you. If you would prefer to receive a black and white printed = copy of the journal delivered to your door, you may want to purchase a = subscription. Rate for the public: $18 for 6 issues. Rate for active Master Gardeners: $15 for 6 issues. Send name, mailing address, and check payable to University of = Arizona. Mail to: Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, ATTN: MG = Journal Subscriptions, 4341 E. Broadway Rd., Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807. Enjoy! Lucy ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of = A ~U of A ~U of A ~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an = environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low = desert. "The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not = be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of = Arizona." ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: LBradley@cals.arizona.edu http://cals.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ http://cals.arizona.edu/youthgardens Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an = environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low = desert. "The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not = be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of = Arizona." ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C3E41F.41D011A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi Everyone
 
Just a quick note: this link will = take you=20 to the Aug/Sep 2003 issue.  If you click on "Archive" in the = list on=20 the left-hand side of the page, you'll see the Jan/Feb = 2004 link at=20 the top of the page that opens.
 
It looks wonderful, Tyler and = Heidi, wherever=20 you are.  Congratulations on your first big issue!
 
Candice Sherrill
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Lucy Bradley
To: maricopa-mg@Ag.arizona.edu= ; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= ;=20 azhort@Ag.arizona.edu ; sfarlin@Ag.arizona.edu ; jimc@Ag.arizona.edu ; djyoung@Ag.arizona.edu =
Sent: Monday, January 26, 2004 = 2:18=20 PM
Subject: [MG] Jan/Feb Maricopa = County=20 Master Gardener Journal

Greetings,

The January/February Maricopa County = Master=20 Gardener Journal is now available on-line!=20
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/mgjour= nal.htm=20
The Journal may be opened on-line and you may print it in = color free=20 of charge.

If you have any questions about how to open Master = Gardener=20 Journal on line, please contact The Master Gardener Desk 602-470-8086 = ext=20 301.

Due to the high resolution of the images and the length of = the=20 document you may experience long download times if you are using a = dial up=20 modem. Avoid the wait by ordering a hard copy subscription to be = mailed =20 to you. If you would prefer to receive a black and white printed copy = of the=20 journal delivered to your door, you may want to purchase a=20 subscription.


Rate for the public: $18 for 6 = issues.
Rate for=20 active Master Gardeners: $15 for 6 issues.

Send name, mailing = address,=20 and check payable to University of Arizona. Mail to: Maricopa County=20 Cooperative Extension, ATTN: MG Journal Subscriptions, 4341 E. = Broadway Rd.,=20 Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807.


Enjoy!

Lucy


 ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A = ~U of A ~U of = A ~U of A ~U of A = ~U of A ~U of A = ~U of A ~U of A=20 ~
 =

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~= ~~~~~~~~
Lucy=20 K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa = County
The=20 University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway = Rd.
Phoenix,=20 AZ  85040-8807

Phone:  (602) 470-8086 ext = 323
Fax: =20 (602) 470-8092
email:  BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/
http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens

<= B>Mission=20 of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program
To teach people = to=20 select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible = manner=20 based on research specific to the low desert.

"The=20 opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be = taken as=20 a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of=20 = Arizona."
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~= ~~~~



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~= ~~~~
Lucy K. Bradley
Extension = Agent,=20 Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona = Cooperative=20 Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ =20 85040-8807

Phone:  (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax:  = (602)=20 470-8092
email:  LBradley@cals.arizona.edu
http://cals.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/
http://cals.arizona.edu/youthgardens

Mission=20 of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program
To teach people = to=20 select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible = manner=20 based on research specific to the low desert.

"The=20 opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be = taken as=20 a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of=20 = Arizona."
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~= ~~~~


------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C3E41F.41D011A0-- From BradleyL@cox.net Tue Jan 27 00:39:59 2004 From: BradleyL@cox.net (Lucy Bradley) Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 17:39:59 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] The REAL Web Address for Jan/Feb 2004 Maricopa County Master Gardener Journal Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20040126173810.01f54248@cals.arizona.edu> --=====================_4369002==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Oops!!! I gave you the wrong address for the JOURNAL Here you go!! http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/index.html Sorry! Lucy >Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 14:18:12 -0700 >To: maricopa-mg@Ag.arizona.edu, arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu, >azhort@Ag.arizona.edu, sfarlin@Ag.arizona.edu, jimc@Ag.arizona.edu, >djyoung@Ag.arizona.edu >From: Lucy Bradley >Subject: Jan/Feb Maricopa County Master Gardener Journal > >Greetings, > >The January/February Maricopa County Master Gardener Journal is now >available on-line! >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/mgjournal.htm > >The Journal may be opened on-line and you may print it in color free of >charge. > >If you have any questions about how to open Master Gardener Journal on >line, please contact The Master Gardener Desk 602-470-8086 ext 301. > >Due to the high resolution of the images and the length of the document >you may experience long download times if you are using a dial up modem. >Avoid the wait by ordering a hard copy subscription to be mailed to you. >If you would prefer to receive a black and white printed copy of the >journal delivered to your door, you may want to purchase a subscription. > > >Rate for the public: $18 for 6 issues. >Rate for active Master Gardeners: $15 for 6 issues. > >Send name, mailing address, and check payable to University of Arizona. >Mail to: Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, ATTN: MG Journal >Subscriptions, 4341 E. Broadway Rd., Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807. > > >Enjoy! > >Lucy > > > ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A > ~U of A ~U of A ~ > >~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ >Lucy K. Bradley >Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture >Maricopa County >The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension >4341 E Broadway Rd. >Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 > >Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 >Fax: (602) 470-8092 >email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ >http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens > >Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program >To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally >responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert. > >"The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be >taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona." >~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > --=====================_4369002==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"


Oops!!!


I gave you the wrong address for the JOURNAL

Here you go!!

http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/index.html


Sorry!

Lucy


Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 14:18:12 -0700
To: maricopa-mg@Ag.arizona.edu, arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu, azhort@Ag.arizona.edu, sfarlin@Ag.arizona.edu, jimc@Ag.arizona.edu, djyoung@Ag.arizona.edu
From: Lucy Bradley <LBradley@cals.arizona.edu>
Subject: Jan/Feb Maricopa County Master Gardener Journal

Greetings,

The January/February Maricopa County Master Gardener Journal is now available on-line!
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/mgjournal.htm

The Journal may be opened on-line and you may print it in color free of charge.

If you have any questions about how to open Master Gardener Journal on line, please contact The Master Gardener Desk 602-470-8086 ext 301.

Due to the high resolution of the images and the length of the document you may experience long download times if you are using a dial up modem. Avoid the wait by ordering a hard copy subscription to be mailed  to you. If you would prefer to receive a black and white printed copy of the journal delivered to your door, you may want to purchase a subscription.


Rate for the public: $18 for 6 issues.
Rate for active Master Gardeners: $15 for 6 issues.

Send name, mailing address, and check payable to University of Arizona. Mail to: Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, ATTN: MG Journal Subscriptions, 4341 E. Broadway Rd., Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807.


Enjoy!

Lucy


 ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ  85040-8807

Phone:  (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax:  (602) 470-8092
email:  BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/
http://ag.arizona.edu/youthgardens

Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program
To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert.

"The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona."
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

--=====================_4369002==_.ALT-- From lisamercier@allstate.com Tue Jan 27 18:54:15 2004 From: lisamercier@allstate.com (lisamercier@allstate.com) Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 11:54:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401271854.i0RIsFsZ017514@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a mature Mexican palm tree that is located about 6 feet from where a water pipe was leaking for several months. I have noticed that there is a 6 foot vertical slit in the bark of the palm that I had not noticed before. Is this due to the excess moisture? Do I need to do anything to protect the palm? Thanks for your help. From cmf7314@hotmail.com Wed Jan 28 22:51:38 2004 From: cmf7314@hotmail.com (cmf7314@hotmail.com) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 15:51:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401282251.i0SMpcsZ025187@Ag.arizona.edu> I'm wanting to replace the bermuda grass landscape areas of my front yard with xeriscaping (i.e. remove all of the grass and replace with rock, native desert plants and other low or non-water use features). What are the best options for permanently removing the grass? From lisajgehl@yahoo.com Wed Jan 28 22:37:43 2004 From: lisajgehl@yahoo.com (Lisa Gehl) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 14:37:43 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Santa Cruz Hibiscus/White Bird of Paradise Message-ID: <20040128223743.32486.qmail@web14302.mail.yahoo.com> --0-886113142-1075329463=:30744 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I bought some plants recently and I am hoping to plant them outside. Two that I am most concerned with is the "Santa Cruz" Hibiscus (Alyogyne hueglelii) and the White Bird of Paradise (Strelitzia nicolai). I live in central Phoenix. I would like to make sure these both last a while because in the past I follow the instructions that come with a plant and I have learned that it can be a whole different way of caring for a plant when you live in Phoenix. In other words, they turn to dust. Just looking for typical care on where to plant, sun, water, etc. Thank you all in advance. :) Lisa --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it! --0-886113142-1075329463=:30744 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
I bought some plants recently and I am hoping to plant them outside. Two that I am most concerned with is the "Santa Cruz" Hibiscus (Alyogyne hueglelii) and the White Bird of Paradise (Strelitzia nicolai). I live in central Phoenix. I would like to make sure these both last a while because in the past I follow the instructions that come with a plant and I have learned that it can be a whole different way of caring for a plant when you live in Phoenix. In other words, they turn to dust. Just looking for typical care on where to plant, sun, water, etc. Thank you all in advance. :)
 
Lisa
 

Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it! --0-886113142-1075329463=:30744-- From mhills@seedsolutions.com Thu Jan 29 00:17:17 2004 From: mhills@seedsolutions.com (Mike Hills) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 17:17:17 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bermudagrass Removal In-Reply-To: <200401282251.i0SMpcsZ025187@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <006601c3e5fd$4195f8a0$0500a8c0@RSIOAQ3YCFIW63> Inserted into the message below is a recent reply to a similar inquiry where a person wanted to kill sme remaining bermuda in their own xeriscape conversion. This same information would apply to your starting project. One other thought - If you can plow up the yard very coarsely and leave it lumpy for the next month or so and we get a few more hard frosts, this can get you a head start on killing the bermuda. Exposed bermuda crowns in a dry state during hard freezes will be heavily damaged. This is part of the success method used by bermudagrass hay and seed growers in SW Arizona when they want to convert a bermuda field to lettuce, melons, etc. Then after frosts are over you can level out and go back to the finish project of killing bermuda per instructions below during the warm weather. Good Luck, mike ------------------------------------------------------- From: "Mike Hills" To: ; Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2004 6:29 PM Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] bermudagrass removal > Pam - removing bermudagrass completely takes a little time and effort, but > can be done successfully. Most people give up too early, without finishing > the whole process - something like not taking your entire antibiotics > prescription. > > Organic method - SHADE - effective over time. First, dig out what you can > easily reach of the remaining bermuda patches. re-level the soil. > Bermudagrass cannot tolerate shade or lack of light. Obtain some thick > black plastic and cover the bermuda area completely blocking out the light, > and bury the edges of the plastic for a light-proof seal. As the bermuda > plants try to regrow from their underground stems, they will slowly starve > to death from lack of light. You should be able to remove the plastic > after 2-3 months - DO NOT leave the plastic in place longer than that, as it > will be blocking water, air and oxygen needed in the soil by your trees. > If the bermuda re-sprouts, then immediately cover it again to finish > starving the bermuda crowns. > > > More effective method - Glyphospate herbicide - RoundUp and similar brands > available at any garden center or nursery. Please read the label > instructions carefully. First you need to pull or clip off al the > existing stems of bermuda that are showing - the old, mature stems are > impossible to kill with a herbicide. Then water the area well over the next > couple of months - this is the mistake most people make, thinking since they > are killing it they should starve the bermuda for water. If the bermuda is > stressed, it will retreat into the crowns and underground stems and be > impossible to reach with your herbicide. Once some new, succulent green > growth pops up again (March or April) you need to add a tablespoon of liquid > dish soap per gallon of Glyphosphate solution in your sprayer - the soap > helps the herbicide stick to the bermuda leaves for better absorption. > Spray the herbicide on a warm sunny day, with no wind and allow the plant to > absorb it well - DO NOT allow any spray to drift to the leaves or green > stems of nearby plants - it will not harm the lower bark trunks of your > trees, if you spray the bermuda up against the trunks. DO NOT pull or > remove any of the exposed bermuda stems for 2-4 weeks / removing the stems > too early will reduce the effectiveness of your treatment - wait until the > stems are totally dead and brown. Then remove them and again add water - > this will stimulate any remaining live shoots to emerge from underground. > Again, spray them with the soap + glyphosphate solution on the succulent > green growth once it reaches 3-4 inches tall. Same process wait until dead > before pulling the stems out. You may need to go one more time to get the > last bits. Just keep in mind that the herbicide works only on juicy > succulent bermuda growth, and keep your eyes peeled for any more stray stems > that pop up in future. Kill them while they are still small and before > they have a chance to build up a mature crown. > > Good Luck, > Mike Hills > Master Gardener Volunteer, Maricopa County > > -----Original Message----- > From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu > [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of pspiegl@cox.net > Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2004 8:44 PM > To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > > Hi, > > We used to have bermuda grass in our back yard. We then decided to > convert our back yard to desert landscaping using rock. Our back yard is > entirely rock now except for two mesquite trees and a fountain between the > two mesquite trees. Weeds in the back yard are not that bothersome and we > can handle those. However, the biggest problem we have in our backyard is > grass growing around the trees. Can you give us some ideas on how to get > rid of the bermuda grass > growing at the base of our trees? If we can't get rid of the grass, what is > the best way to keep the grass under control? Thanks for any help you can > give us. > > Pam --------------------------------------------------------- -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of cmf7314@hotmail.com Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 3:52 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I'm wanting to replace the bermuda grass landscape areas of my front yard with xeriscaping (i.e. remove all of the grass and replace with rock, native desert plants and other low or non-water use features). What are the best options for permanently removing the grass? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From mhills@seedsolutions.com Thu Jan 29 00:21:46 2004 From: mhills@seedsolutions.com (Mike Hills) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 17:21:46 -0700 Subject: QUESTION [Arid_gardener] Black flies in houseplants? In-Reply-To: <11b.2d617667.2d496c39@aol.com> Message-ID: <007001c3e5fd$e19c2860$0500a8c0@RSIOAQ3YCFIW63> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0071_01C3E5C3.353D5060 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dear Arid Gardeners The note below is from a good friend of mine concerning those pesky little black flies around her houseplants. I believe some of you have better information than I do on this subject and can better answer her questions. In fact, I seem to recall that this one has been asked before, as this is a fairly common problem. Mike -----Original Message----- From: MJUNQUE@aol.com [mailto:MJUNQUE@aol.com] Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 12:49 PM To: mhills@seedsolutions.com Subject: question We have had a lot of those small black annoying flies coming from the plant soil in our houseplants , I believe, and I have sprayed the whole area with fly spray, but they still are everywhere. I assume there should be something I could put in the soil. I have now begun to microwave the soil before I pot anything. But I have oodles of plants already potted. What do I do? Mary ------=_NextPart_000_0071_01C3E5C3.353D5060 Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Dear=20 Arid Gardeners
 
The=20 note below is from a good friend of mine concerning those pesky little = black=20 flies around her houseplants.   I believe some of you have = better=20 information than I do on this subject and can better answer her=20 questions.    In fact, I seem to recall that this one has = been=20 asked before, as this is a fairly common problem.
 
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: MJUNQUE@aol.com=20 [mailto:MJUNQUE@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 = 12:49=20 PM
To: mhills@seedsolutions.com
Subject:=20 question

We have=20 had a lot of those small black annoying flies coming from the plant = soil   in our houseplants , I = believe,=20 and I have sprayed the whole area with fly spray, but they still are=20 everywhere. I assume there should be something I could put in the = soil. I have=20 now begun to microwave the soil before I  pot anything. But I = have oodles=20 of plants already potted. What do I do? 
Mary=20
------=_NextPart_000_0071_01C3E5C3.353D5060-- From watsontl@mindspring.com Thu Jan 29 01:32:33 2004 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 18:32:33 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Santa Cruz Hibiscus/White Bird of Paradise References: <20040128223743.32486.qmail@web14302.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000a01c3e607$c56d9ac0$9e30b83f@S0029317241> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C3E5CD.18193F30 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Try here: http://www.desert-tropicals.com/Plants/Malvaceae/Alyogyne_huegelii.html For the hybiscus and here: http://www.desert-tropicals.com/Plants/Strelitziaceae/Strelitzia_nicolai.= html For the bird-of-paradise Tom ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Lisa Gehl=20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 3:37 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Santa Cruz Hibiscus/White Bird of Paradise I bought some plants recently and I am hoping to plant them outside. = Two that I am most concerned with is the "Santa Cruz" Hibiscus (Alyogyne = hueglelii) and the White Bird of Paradise (Strelitzia nicolai). I live = in central Phoenix. I would like to make sure these both last a while = because in the past I follow the instructions that come with a plant and = I have learned that it can be a whole different way of caring for a = plant when you live in Phoenix. In other words, they turn to dust. Just = looking for typical care on where to plant, sun, water, etc. Thank you = all in advance. :) Lisa -------------------------------------------------------------------------= ----- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it! ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C3E5CD.18193F30 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Try here:
 
http://www.desert-tropicals.com/Plants/Malvaceae/Alyogyne_huegeli= i.html
For the hybiscus
 
and here:
 
http://www.desert-tropicals.com/Plants/Strelitziaceae/Strel= itzia_nicolai.html
For the bird-of-paradise
 
Tom
 
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Lisa Gehl=20
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, = 2004 3:37=20 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Santa = Cruz=20 Hibiscus/White Bird of Paradise

I bought some plants recently and I am hoping to plant them = outside. Two=20 that I am most concerned with is the "Santa Cruz" Hibiscus (Alyogyne=20 hueglelii) and the White Bird of Paradise (Strelitzia nicolai). I live = in=20 central Phoenix. I would like to make sure these both last a while = because in=20 the past I follow the instructions that come with a plant and I have = learned=20 that it can be a whole different way of caring for a plant when you = live in=20 Phoenix. In other words, they turn to dust. Just looking for typical = care on=20 where to plant, sun, water, etc. Thank you all in advance. :)
 
Lisa
 

Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try=20 it! ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C3E5CD.18193F30-- From watsontl@mindspring.com Thu Jan 29 02:28:06 2004 From: watsontl@mindspring.com (Tom & Linda Watson) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 19:28:06 -0700 Subject: QUESTION [Arid_gardener] Black flies in houseplants? References: <007001c3e5fd$e19c2860$0500a8c0@RSIOAQ3YCFIW63> Message-ID: <001e01c3e60f$888b8a10$9e30b83f@S0029317241> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C3E5D4.DB1CC8B0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Most likely these are fungus gnats. In my experience they are mostly = harmless, if a bit annoying. Their presence is often an indication = that the plants are being overwatered. Tom ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Mike Hills=20 To: MJUNQUE@aol.com ; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 5:21 PM Subject: QUESTION [Arid_gardener] Black flies in houseplants? Dear Arid Gardeners The note below is from a good friend of mine concerning those pesky = little black flies around her houseplants. I believe some of you have = better information than I do on this subject and can better answer her = questions. In fact, I seem to recall that this one has been asked = before, as this is a fairly common problem. Mike -----Original Message----- From: MJUNQUE@aol.com [mailto:MJUNQUE@aol.com] Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 12:49 PM To: mhills@seedsolutions.com Subject: question We have had a lot of those small black annoying flies coming from = the plant soil in our houseplants , I believe, and I have sprayed the = whole area with fly spray, but they still are everywhere. I assume there = should be something I could put in the soil. I have now begun to = microwave the soil before I pot anything. But I have oodles of plants = already potted. What do I do?=20 Mary ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C3E5D4.DB1CC8B0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Most likely these are fungus = gnats.   In=20 my experience they are mostly harmless, if a bit annoying.   = Their=20 presence is often an indication that the plants are being=20 overwatered.
 
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Mike=20 Hills
To: MJUNQUE@aol.com ; arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu= =20
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, = 2004 5:21=20 PM
Subject: QUESTION = [Arid_gardener] Black=20 flies in houseplants?

Dear=20 Arid Gardeners
 
The=20 note below is from a good friend of mine concerning those pesky little = black=20 flies around her houseplants.   I believe some of you have = better=20 information than I do on this subject and can better answer her=20 questions.    In fact, I seem to recall that this one = has been=20 asked before, as this is a fairly common problem.
 
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: MJUNQUE@aol.com=20 [mailto:MJUNQUE@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 = 12:49=20 PM
To: mhills@seedsolutions.com
Subject:=20 question

We have=20 had a lot of those small black annoying flies coming from the plant=20 soil   in our houseplants , I = believe,=20 and I have sprayed the whole area with fly spray, but they still are = everywhere. I assume there should be something I could put in the = soil. I=20 have now begun to microwave the soil before I  pot anything. = But I have=20 oodles of plants already potted. What do I do? 
Mary=20
------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C3E5D4.DB1CC8B0-- From LBradley@cals.arizona.edu Thu Jan 29 02:05:21 2004 From: LBradley@cals.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 19:05:21 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Master Watershed Steward Program Expands Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20040128185940.01fd5e90@cals.arizona.edu> --=====================_43311518==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Master Watershed Steward Program Expands Building on the success of programs in Yavapai and Cochise counties, and with funding from the Arizona Department of Environmental Quality (ADEQ), the Master Watershed Steward Program is expanding into the remainder of Arizona's watersheds. What are watersheds? We all live in a watershed area of land that drains into a common water body. Whatever happens to land and water resources in watersheds influences the quality and quantity of water available to all Arizonans. So, what are Master Watershed Stewards? Master Watershed Stewards are highly trained volunteers working closely with the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension and the ADEQ to improve the health of their watersheds. To become certified, Master Watershed Stewards participate in over fifty hours of course and field work to learn about natural and human processes in local watersheds. They then volunteer over forty hours in projects that improve the health of their watersheds. If you are interested in becoming a Master Watershed Steward, contact the agent in charge of Natural Resource Education in your County Cooperative Extension office, http://cals.arizona.edu/extension/counties/ , or the statewide program coordinator at the address below. Robert Emanuel Senior Program Coordinator Arizona Master Watershed Steward Program University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 301 Forbes Building Tucson, AZ 85721 (520) 621-1268 Robert Emanuel http://cals.arizona.edu/watershedsteward/ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: LBradley@cals.arizona.edu http://cals.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ http://cals.arizona.edu/youthgardens Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert. "The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona." ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ --=====================_43311518==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
Master Watershed Steward Program Expands

Building on the success of programs in Yavapai and Cochise counties, and with funding from the Arizona Department of Environmental Quality (ADEQ), the Master Watershed Steward Program is expanding into the remainder of Arizona’s watersheds. 

What are watersheds?  We all live in a watershed area of land that drains into a common water body. Whatever happens to land and water resources in watersheds influences the quality and quantity of water available to all Arizonans. 

So, what are Master Watershed Stewards?  Master Watershed Stewards are highly trained volunteers working closely with the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension and the ADEQ to improve the health of their watersheds.  To become certified, Master Watershed Stewards participate in over fifty hours of course and field work to learn about natural and human processes in local watersheds.  They then volunteer over forty hours in projects that improve the health of their watersheds. 

If you are interested in becoming a Master Watershed Steward, contact the agent in charge of Natural Resource Education in your County Cooperative Extension office, http://cals.arizona.edu/extension/counties/  , or the statewide program coordinator at the address below. 

Robert Emanuel
Senior Program Coordinator
Arizona Master Watershed Steward Program
University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
301 Forbes Building
Tucson, AZ 85721
(520) 621-1268
Robert Emanuel <emanuel@Ag.arizona.edu>
http://cals.arizona.edu/watershedsteward/


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ  85040-8807

Phone:  (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax:  (602) 470-8092
email:  LBradley@cals.arizona.edu
http://cals.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/
http://cals.arizona.edu/youthgardens

Mission of the Maricopa County Master Gardener Program
To teach people to select, place and care for plants in an environmentally responsible manner based on research specific to the low desert.

"The opinions or statements expressed herein are my own and should not be taken as a position, opinion, or endorsement of the University of Arizona."
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


--=====================_43311518==_.ALT-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Jan 29 13:47:21 2004 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 13:47:21 +0000 Subject: QUESTION [Arid_gardener] Black flies in houseplants? Message-ID: I agree with Tom and changing your watering schedule will help. See are web page on management strategies for fungus gnats DESCRIPTION: Fungus gnats are small gray flies that periodically emerge from potted plants. DAMAGE: The gnats may be a nuisance when flying to windows, but do no harm to humans. Most kinds feed on organic matter in the soil. MANAGEMENT: To reduce their numbers, re-pot the plant into soil less rich in organic matter, let the plant dry out sufficiently between waterings and set plants outdoors when adult gnats are emerging. Vacuum up any adult gnats attracted to lights or windows. You can also drench the soil with a soap solution (1-2 teaspoons of dishwashing soap in a gallon of water poured into the soil). You will probably have to repeat this every few weeks until all gnats are gone. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Mike Hills" >Reply-To: >To: , >Subject: QUESTION [Arid_gardener] Black flies in houseplants? >Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 17:21:46 -0700 > >Dear Arid Gardeners > >The note below is from a good friend of mine concerning those pesky little >black flies around her houseplants. I believe some of you have better >information than I do on this subject and can better answer her questions. >In fact, I seem to recall that this one has been asked before, as this is a >fairly common problem. > >Mike > -----Original Message----- > From: MJUNQUE@aol.com [mailto:MJUNQUE@aol.com] > Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 12:49 PM > To: mhills@seedsolutions.com > Subject: question > > > We have had a lot of those small black annoying flies coming from the >plant soil in our houseplants , I believe, and I have sprayed the whole >area with fly spray, but they still are everywhere. I assume there should >be >something I could put in the soil. I have now begun to microwave the soil >before I pot anything. But I have oodles of plants already potted. What do >I do? > Mary _________________________________________________________________ Find high-speed ‘net deals — comparison-shop your local providers here. https://broadband.msn.com From mfitzgerald@bfafairfax.com Thu Jan 29 16:56:53 2004 From: mfitzgerald@bfafairfax.com (mfitzgerald@bfafairfax.com) Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 09:56:53 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401291656.i0TGursZ013988@Ag.arizona.edu> A friend has a tall skinny cactus that was touching the ceiling. so three feet were cut off. I now have the three feet of cactus in a bucket of water. I want to put it in soil to see if it will grow, but I do not know if it will work. I bought cactus soil at Home Depot. Will this work? I do not know what kind of cactus it is. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Jan 29 23:37:49 2004 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 23:37:49 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] cactus cutting Message-ID: Cactus will often grow from cuttings. Do you know what kind of cactus it is or can you give us a more detailed description (such as number of spines per cluster, arrangement of spines, etc.) First, remove the cactus from the water; place it in a cool, dry place for several days/weeks until a callous forms over the cut. Cactus are very drought-tolerant and overwatering is a main cause of death in garden cactus. Once the cut has a firm crust over it, plant the cactus in a freely-draining potting mix (such as a cactus mix or a mixture containing sand and/or pumice). Water the plant; soil moisture stimulates regwneration of the root system. If you decide to just plant the cactus without air-drying first, hold off on initial watering for at least 10 days, longer if the weather is cool. (from "Gardening in the Desert" by Mary Irish) Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: mfitzgerald@bfafairfax.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 09:56:53 -0700 (MST) > >A friend has a tall skinny cactus that was touching the ceiling. so three >feet were cut off. I now have the three feet of cactus in a bucket of >water. I want to put it in soil to see if it will grow, but I do not know >if it will work. I bought cactus soil at Home Depot. Will this work? I do >not know what kind of cactus it is. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get a FREE online virus check for your PC here, from McAfee. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 From GraceRanch2@msn.com Fri Jan 30 01:17:01 2004 From: GraceRanch2@msn.com (GraceRanch2@msn.com) Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 18:17:01 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200401300117.i0U1H1sZ010414@Ag.arizona.edu> I purchased a home with two hybrid mesquite trees which are full of mistletoe. One is around 25' high, and the smaller around 12'. The larger tree appears healthy, but I want to know if I knock the mistletoe out, will there be any sustained life. I know the mistletoe is a parasite, but am unsure if trees can live a reasonably long time provided I keep them clean. If I cut them both down, I will have an essentially tree-less front yard. I understand radical pruning may cause a very undesirable looking tree (water sprouts). What should I do? Thanks to any with answers. From jamie123@bigfoot.com Fri Jan 30 03:21:05 2004 From: jamie123@bigfoot.com (Jamie the Gardner) Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 20:21:05 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200401300117.i0U1H1sZ010414@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Here's what Neil Sperry's Complete Guide to Texas Gardening says - "Prune to remove very young mistletoe plants, before they root deeply into the limbs. A long-handled pole pruner usually works well, since you can scallop lightly under the bark. You may find it easier, in severe outbreaks, simply to remove entire limbs." I followed this procedure in a moderately infested tree when I lived in Texas with good results. Since the tree had been infested for several years (I think) before I moved in, I had to keep after it for several years until I got all (or most) of the mistletoe out. The mistletoe kept regrowing from where I cut or broke it off, but after a while, no more grew from the stump/root/what-ever-you-call-the-part-left-in-the-host-branch. -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of GraceRanch2@msn.com Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2004 6:17 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I purchased a home with two hybrid mesquite trees which are full of mistletoe. One is around 25' high, and the smaller around 12'. The larger tree appears healthy, but I want to know if I knock the mistletoe out, will there be any sustained life. I know the mistletoe is a parasite, but am unsure if trees can live a reasonably long time provided I keep them clean. If I cut them both down, I will have an essentially tree-less front yard. I understand radical pruning may cause a very undesirable looking tree (water sprouts). What should I do? Thanks to any with answers. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Jan 30 03:26:09 2004 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 03:26:09 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] mistletoe Message-ID: For information about mistletoe and control, see: http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/PLP/plpext/diseases/trees/paloverde/paloverdemist.html If you can keep the mistletoe pruned out, you should increase the lifespan of the tree sigbificantly. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: GraceRanch2@msn.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 18:17:01 -0700 (MST) > >I purchased a home with two hybrid mesquite trees which are full of >mistletoe. One is around 25' high, and the smaller around 12'. >The larger tree appears healthy, but I want to know if I knock the >mistletoe out, will there be any sustained life. I know the mistletoe is a >parasite, but am unsure if trees can live a reasonably long time provided I >keep them clean. If I cut them both down, I will have an essentially >tree-less front yard. I understand radical pruning may cause a very >undesirable looking tree (water sprouts). What should I do? Thanks to any >with answers. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ There are now three new levels of MSN Hotmail Extra Storage! Learn more. http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-us&page=hotmail/es2&ST=1 From Bummerbills@aol.com Fri Jan 30 05:00:11 2004 From: Bummerbills@aol.com (Bummerbills@aol.com) Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 00:00:11 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] preserving juice from tangerines and tangelos Message-ID: <24.4e3f0ef7.2d4b3edb@aol.com> Hi, I am pretty good at preserving the fruit from my garden and small orchard, IN UTAH. But know not a thing about my Yuma, AZ harvest. I have a tree with beautiful tangelos and one with lots of tangerines. I did OK with freezing it last year but wonder if it can be bottled. Did you ever find out. I saw a question about orange juice and was intrigued with the info about navel oranges. Thanks in advance for any info you may be privy to. Susan Bills @ bummerbills@aol.com PS we are replacing some old trees, here and wonder if