Chili

Chilies are not difficult to grow, and the variety selected depends on individual taste. We are in a prime chili growing area. Chili is grown commercially in Cochise County, and a processing plant on Frontier Road near McNeal cans chili to be shipped across the United States. Before canning, the chili processing plant leaches the chilies in a lime solution which preserves them. The chilies grown locally, and in Hatch, New Mexico, are the largest and meatiest of varieties.

All peppers are grown in the same manner, maturing just about the time school begins in September, or a little later. Planted in spring, usually as transplants, although seeds are also used, the plants are similar in appearance to a bush-type bean plant. They like sandy soil and don't mind a little crowding from other chili plants. They are more successfully grown in a raised bed where water is readily available to the roots. The extra nutrients brought in with the summer rains can then collect in the troughs between the rows, giving the plants the added moisture required for full and meaty fruits. Keep the chilies picked regularly and they will continue to produce until frost.

The Native Seed Search catalog has over 15 selections of chili seeds - the largest collection available for purchase, it seems. Chili contains capsaicin which is used in liniments to sooth sore muscles. The capsaicin causes blood to increase in circulation. That is why some of us get the red ear while still chewing the stuff. It is also addictive - once enjoyed in a food, the desire for more is compelling.

The homemaker can purchase a gunny sack full of green chili from a grower or roadside vendor in the fall. Sometimes the chilies are roasted in a large drum, rotisserie style, at the location where they are purchased, or at home they are cooked on a grill outside or in an oven, roasted until the moisture inside makes the chili pop or explode allowing the steam to escape. Chilies can then be stored in plastic bags, frozen, and then peeled, ready for consumption. After freezing, the skin seems to be more easily removed by gently rolling the chili between your fingers. These are the type of chili stuffed with cheese and onion, dipped in a milk mixture, floured and fried in hot oil - a chili relleno.

These long chilies, while still green, are strung individually and gathered together forming a ristra which is bright red when dried. Hanging under a porch by a door, these ristras are a southwest art form and are also useful since chilies are picked from the ristra to be used in cooking when needed.

The bright red color of fresh dried home-ground chili is exceptionally pleasing to the senses. It is most appreciated for its fresh, poignant flavor, more so, because the cook can grow it, dry it, and prepare it.

The red, dried chili may also be soaked, and chopped in a blender with water. This mixture is used as a base for enchilada sauce. To make enchilada sauce simply heat a tablespoon or two of oil, add a little flour, salt and garlic salt. Stir until lightly browned. Carefully add the chili water mixture, stirring until it boils or is the desired consistency.

A smaller sized chili, the jalapeno, is also now popular as a cheese-stuffed appetizer. The meaty jalapeno has a stronger, more distinctive flavor than die larger green chilies. Jalapenos can be eaten fresh. Pico de Gallo sauce uses fresh ingredients - peppers, tomatoes, onions, garlic, cilantro, and a touch of lemon. A lively addition to any meal, jalapeno peppers are now grown for flavor, not hotness. They are also pickled and canned or used in the making of jelly.

Yellow hot peppers can be grown and used fresh in sauces, also. They may be served raw, taking the place of a crunchy pickle with a sandwich.

Chiletepin is a northern New Mexico native and is used as a decorative bush. The small red dried seed pod is crushed between the fingers and used to flavor salsa made with canned tomatoes and onions for use over tacos and tostados.

The pequine-type chili is the one used in making Louisiana hot sauce and in Cajun cooking.

The oriental chilies are the hottest and used in Szechwan dishes. If you request "hot" sauce in an oriental restaurant, you will probably receive crushed chilies in an oil base and it will be hot! Microscopic portions only can be consumed.

Depending on location, the manner in which chilies are prepared varies significantly. A favorite New Mexico winter tradition is a pot of green chili bubbling at the back of the stove. Green chili made with pork, green chilies, pinto beans, onions, and seasonings is guaranteed to warm the soul of the person who eats it. This dish is served in a bowl, accompanied by a tortilla - soup and crackers to a gringo.

Fresh chili, an important south western staple, is stocked in most supermarkets. Usually Anaheim and jalapenos are obtainable. If other varieties are desired, try growing your own. Consider this HOT tip: chilies produce prolifically and continuously and are easy to grow - no wonder they are so popular!

Author: 
Barbara Kishbaugh
Issue: 
November, 1993
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