FAQs

Question:

My compost pile was doing very well, but after the recent rains we have had it really smells bad. What happened and what can I do about it?

Answer

Your compost pile is too wet and therefore has very little if any air available to the organisms that break down organic matter in it. Anaerobic respiration or fermentation has taken over and is causing the bad smells.

Control

Turn over the compost pile to get more air introduced into it. This will allow normal decomposition of the organic matter. Try and keep the compost pile as moist as a well-rung out sponge throughout the pile. In the desert the outside of the pile dries out quickly. Re-wet the surface every couple of days as needed.

Question:

I have noticed small holes in the bark of my apple, cherry, peach, plum and mulberry trees. It looks as if the trees have been shot with a shotgun. The stone fruits have gummy material coming out of the holes. What is the cause of these holes and how can I control it?

Answer

The holes you see are caused by shothole bores, (Scolytus rugulosus (Muller)). Shot hole bores are beetles that were introduced from Europe in 1878. They can be destructive pests of fruit and ornamental trees, and shrubs. Numerous small shot holes" are seen in the bark of twigs and branches. The gummy exudate from the stone fruit trees is their response to try and fend off the invaders. The adult beetle is 2.5 mm or less in length, brown-black, with a short stubby snout with chewing mouth parts. The thorax is shiny and elongated, the elytra, or wing covers are dull. Adults burrow through the bark and live between the bark and sapwood of the plant. Adult feeding excavates narrow galleries running parallel to the wood grain under the bark. Eggs are oval to round and pearly white in color. Females lay 50 eggs in niches along the gallery she has made. As the eggs hatch the larvae excavate slender mines or burrows, usually at right angles to the maternal gallery, occasionally crisscrossing over one another between the bark and sapwood. The larval burrows are filled with excrement and grow wider as the larvae grow. They become fully grown six to eight weeks later and construct pupal cells at the ends of the mines. Upon completion of pupation young adults burrow through the bark to the outside world, mate, and the cycle starts anew. The larvae of the last generation of the year complete development during late winter and early spring as temperatures rise. In Southern Arizona there are normally three generations per year."

Control

Healthy, vigorous, well-cared-for trees are less subject to attack by shothole borers. Plant maintenance through correct watering at the drip-line, proper fertilization, and pruning practices keep trees healthy. Affected branches should be pruned out burned to decrease insect populations. Plants receiving a regular spray program are not troubled by shothole borers.

Source

Orchard Pest Management. Elizabeth H. Beers, et al., Editors. 1993. Good Fruit Grower. Yakima, WA. Pages 186-187. Insect Pests of Farm, Garden, and Orchard. Ralph H. Davidson and William F. Lyon. 1987. John Wiley & Sons, Inc. New York. Pages 404-405.

Question:

I have a pear, apple, peach, nectarine, plum, apricot and cherry trees which have new leaves that are curling up around the edges and are deformed. Is this peach leaf curl?

Answer

Peach leaf curl is caused by a fungus and does not affect pear and apple trees. The problem at hand is caused by the western flower thrip or onion thrip. Thrips are small, 1/25-1/50th inch long or so, and lay their eggs in flower or leaf buds or on very young leaf tissue. They feed with their rasping sucking mouth parts and cause irreversible damage to the plant tissue, flowers and fruit. Five to 15 generations per year can be produced. To see if you have thrips hold a piece of white paper under the damaged leaves and tap them sharply. Thrips will fall on the paper and start to walk around. They rarely fly because they are weak flyers but will hop. There have been vast numbers of thrips this year because of the good winter rains we had which caused cool season weeds, mustard particularly, to thrive. Thrip populations build up to high levels on these weeds and when they die down, due to warm weather, the thrips migrate to fruit trees, roses and other perennial flowers.

Control

Thrips are hard to control once they are inside a bud because they are protected. Systemic pesticides do help with thrips on roses, peonies and other perennial flowers. Hang up blue or yellow sticky traps to catch adults as they move into an area. Diatomaceous earth applied to the underside of the leaves my also be helpful. As a last resort sprays of insecticidal soap, rubbing alcohol or other insecticides may be helpful. The best thing to do is control weeds where thrips are living in the early spring. Annually check weeds on your property to see if thrips are there. Us the method described above. Generally plants will out grow the damage caused by thrips by producing new leaves, but damaged leaves flowers and fruit will not be mended.

Source

Carr Anna et. al. Chemical-Free Yard and Gardening. 1991. Rodale Press, Inc., Emmaus, PA. pp. 242, 244.

Question:

I have a pear tree that has some bumps on the leaves. Over time the bumps turn into brown spots. Is this zinc deficiency?

Answer

No you do not have zinc deficiency. The damage you see is caused by mites, most likely the pearleaf blister mites (Phytoptus pyri Pagenstecher). This mite was introduced from Europe, probably before 1900. It is a pest of most pear growing areas of the world. Feeding by these mites causes damage on leaves and fruit. Blister mites overwinter as mature females at the base of buds or under outer bud scales. Adults are light to amber yellow in color and cylindrical, tapered sharply at the posterior end and resemble a short worm. In spring, when buds begin to swell, overwintering females penetrate deeper into bud and lay eggs on live tissues. Development from egg to adult requires 20 to 30 days during spring. Feeding of females and their offspring causes blisters on developing leaves. Blister are green or red at first but turn light brown to black as affected tissue dies. As the blisters form, leaf cells near the center of the blisters die and pull apart as surrounding cells enlarge, creating a hole. Blisters vary in size, with the largest about 1/8 inch in diameter. Mites do not live in the blisters on the fruit, but the fruit will be scarred. Mites of the first spring generation enter blisters through these holes and feed on soft leaf tissue inside. Several generations develop within the blisters during a growing season. Summer generations require only 10 to 12 days to develop. When blisters become crowded or leaves become heavily damaged, mites may migrate to growing terminals where their feeding produces new blisters. Fruit damage is caused by injury to buds before bloom. Severe damage to foliage can cause leaf drop and reduce shoot growth. Look at young leaves before bloom early in the spring just as leaves are unrolling. Noticeable light green to light red rough areas where mites have been feeding will be seen. This damage becomes more noticeable as the growing season progresses.

Control

Blister mites are not normally controlled by natural enemies. Predatory mites will feed on blister mites when they are exposed. Blister mites often attack weak, neglected or abandoned trees. If a pesticide is used to control blister mites the best timing is after harvest when mites migrate from leaf blisters to terminal and fruit buds. They are exposed on those sites until buds swell in the spring. Pre-bloom treatments can prevent fruit damage that occurs just before and during bloom.

Source

Orchard Pest Management. 1993. Edited by: Elizabeth H. Beers, et al. Good Fruit Grower Publications, Yakima, WA. Pages 151-153.

Question:

I have several twelve-year-old cherry and peach trees that have holes in the leaves. Also some of the cherries have a greyish spot forming on the fruit. I do not see any insects. What is causing the holes and what can I do about them?

Answer

It sounds as though your trees are affected by bacterial canker of stone fruit or Pseudomonas syringae. Other common names include gummosis, blossom blast, die back, spur blight, and twig blight. There are several different races of this bacteria. Symptoms may appear on some trees and not on others. These include canker development on twigs at the base of flower and leaf buds, and the base of spurs. Cankers normally spread upward, and the infected sunken areas are usually formed in late winter or early spring. Gum often exudes from the canker during the early part of the growing season. If the canker girdles a limb it will die in short order. However, the root system stays healthy and may even produce sucker growth. Dormant leaf and flower buds may be infected and are often killed, but some invaded buds develop normally but will collapse in early summer. Leaves and fruit produced by these buds wilt and dry out. In contrast, leaves and flowers of other infected buds will remain symptomless. Leaf infections especially on cherries appear as water-soaked spots that later become brown and dry. At a later stage shot holes may be seen on leaves sporadically and not always symptomatic of the disease.

Control

Make sure that the trees are pruned, watered and fertilized properly. There is some indication that during mild, wet winters bacteria populations can increase. Trees are particularly susceptible in sandy soils, water logged soils that drain poorly, and during prolonged drought periods. Careful watering is a must. Precautions should be taken while pruning not to spread the disease. Dipping pruners in 20% bleach solution after each pruning cut should help. Chemical control of bacterial canker is based on protective copper containing sprays applied in autumn and spring before flowering. In cherry and peach growing area there are strains of bacterial canker that are resistant to copper sprays.

Source

Compendium of Stone Fruit Diseases. 1995. Edited by Joseph M. Ogawa, et al. The American Phytopathological Society, St. Paul, MN. Pages 48-50.

Question:

My apple tree has branches that are dead or dying. Leaves are drying up and the bark is sunburned. What can I do to stop this?

Answer

What you are seeing are the symptoms of a problem in the root system of the apple tree. It could be a soil born fungus like phytophtera, but is more likely to be a ground dwelling insect pest called a wooly apple aphid, (Erisoma lanigerum). Also pears are injured by the wooly pear aphid, (Erisoma pyricola). These aphids are native to the eastern United States and Canada, but is a worldwide pest that attack elm, mountain ash, and some species of hawthorn trees as alternate hosts. A fluffy white wooly covering over most of the insect's posterior end of their blue black bodies and accounts for its name. This cottony looking substance can be seen in small masses on branches and shoots where injuries or pruning cuts have been made, as well as on roots.

The life cycle of these insects is rather complicated. Females lay eggs on the bark of host or alternate host trees in the late summer or fall. These eggs over winter and hatch in the spring as wingless parthenogenic, (development from an unfertilized egg), females produce ovoviviparous, (eggs hatch within the females body), stem mothers which establish colonies on the terminal leaves. These leaves soon become curled and stunted from feeding. By early summer winged forms appear and fly to other apple trees or hosts to establish new colonies. Repeated generations are produced during the summer. Some of the individuals may crawl to the roots where they continue to reproduce indefinitely. In the fall, winged individuals develop again and fly to hosts and give birth to sexual forms which eventually mate and lay over wintering eggs. Not all aphids leave the apple trees, some wingless forms remain all winter, both above and below ground, thus maintaining a continuous infestation year around. On the roots nodules are formed from the insects feeding. These nodules are rough and bumpy looking and restrict the flow of water and nutrients from the roots to the leaves. Small leaves form and eventually the bark becomes sunburned and dried out and limbs die over several growing seasons.

Control

When planting apple trees semi-dwarfing and dwarfing rootstocks with MM before the rootstock number should be used. Example: MM106 or MM111 are semi- dwarfing rootstocks which are resistant to the wooly apple aphid. The MM stands for Malling-Merton which are agricultural research stations in England which developed these rootstocks. Currently chemical control is the only means available to control wooly apple aphid. However, BioLogic Company, a bio-engineering firm has developed a parasitic nematode, (Steinernema carpocaposae), that has been 80% effective in controlling the ground dwelling form of this pest. They are not yet marketing the nematode. Chemical controls include dimethoate, (Cygon), a systemic insecticide. Other organic and chemical based insecticides that control aphids will control the above ground generations of this insect when they are in the tree, though the ground dwelling forms will not be affected.

Source

Insect Pests of Farm, Garden, and Orchard. R. H. Davidson and W. F. Lyon. 1979. 7th Ed. pp. 392-393. John Wiley and Sons, New York.

Question:

I have a Golden Delicious apple tree with irregular large spots on the leaves. In some places the spots are turning brown and dying. Some of these affected leaves are falling to the ground. What is causing this and what can be done to stop it in the future.

Answer

The apple tree is experiencing necrotic leaf blotch, also called leaf spot or leaf drop. Golden Delicious is particularly susceptible and this condition is restricted to this cultivar and others with its blood-line. This disorder is characterized by irregular necrotic blotches in mature leaves that develop rapidly, usually within 12 to 24 hours. The leaf first turns pail green and yellow, then darkens to a deep brown. The size of the affected area remains constant once visible symptoms appear. The size of the necrotic area is restricted by larger veins, which are not affected. Mature leaves, in the mid-shoot region, are usually affected first. Young vigorous trees appear less severely affected than older, more slowly growing trees. Leaf fall can be rapid once symptoms occur, sometimes within 4 to 7 days. Severity of the disease varies greatly from year to year. Variation can be great among trees in the same orchard or yard. Necrotic leaf blotch is a physiological disorder related to air temperature, light intensity, and soil moisture. It is most severe when a cool, rainy period of 4-5 days precedes several hot, sunny days. A hormonal imbalance is thought to be the cause, since symptoms are enhanced by gibberellin, (a plant hormone that is needed for cell enlargement); and inhibited by abscisic acid (another plant hormone that causes leaf and fruit fall).

Control

Zinc oxide, applied every two weeks from bud break until harvest is effective in reducing disease incidences. Also, healthy, vigorous trees produced by good watering, fertilizing, fruit thinning, and pruning practices contribute to decreased incidences of necrotic leaf blotch.

Source

Compendium of Apple and Pear Diseases. 1991. The American Phytopathological Society. Page 88.

Question:

What can I do about cicadas? They are so loud some years?

Answer

Periodic cicadas are distributed widely throughout the United States. The annual cicadas are present in summer, but the periodic species have long life cycles. A mature annual species is over two inches long, with a brown-black body, ornamented with clear wings that have green veins. Eyes are red to brown and quite large. There are six species of periodic cicadas in the United States. Three with a 17-year life cycle and three with a 13-year life cycle. When all life cycle coincide the male mating sounds can be deafening. Damage is caused by egg laying or ovipostiting females in twigs and branches of trees and shrubs. Branches having a diameter slightly larger than a pencil are preferred. A series of wounds are made in which eggs are laid. Weakened branches can break off or become permanently scarred and abnormal. Over 500 eggs can be deposited by one female. Nymphal cicadas hatch and then drop to the ground, burrow in to the soil, and feed on root sap. Depending on the species they will remain in soil for 17 or 13 years. At the end of this time they emerge from the ground through soil tubes they construct that are nearly a half an inch wide and a quarter inch high above the ground. Great numbers emerge at the same time, starting at dusk. They crawl up tree trunks or other objects, expand their wings, and begin their short adult life. The familiar song or call is made only by the males and is produced by a pair of drum like organs on the basal segments of the abdomen. These love calls can become very loud. Mating occurs and then egg laying begins, completing the life cycle.

Control

Winter pruning and destruction of damaged limbs or twigs that contain eggs may decrease the population. Where feasible, valuable plants may be protected by covering them with shade cloth, cheesecloth, or hardware cloth. Natural enemies include birds, fungal diseases, and the cicada killer wasp, which kills some adults. Other predatory insects and mites may attack the eggs.

Source

Insect Pests of Farm, Garden and Orchard. 1987. Davidson and Lyons. John Wiley and Sons. New York. Pp. 373-376.

Question:

I have a lot of grasshoppers in my yard. They are eating everything! How can I control them?

Answer

In Cochise County we have several species of grasshoppers, some are very colorful and grow quite large. Grasshoppers emerge in the spring from eggs laid last year. Grasshoppers hatch as miniature adults and molt 5 or 6 times during a period of 40 to 60 days. The young feed in the immediate vicinity and then move on to greener pastures" as food sources become depleted. Adults begin laying eggs shortly after they mature. Eggs are laid in the ground in pods that contain 15 to 75 eggs. A female can lay a total of 200 to 400 eggs during several weeks. Hatching rate depends on soil temperature and moisture and may continue for 3 months. Some species have more than one generation per year. Grasshoppers feed on grasses and other plants. When populations increase they will feed on nearly any kind of vegetation including bark and leaves of deciduous trees. Adults continue to feed until cold weather kills them. Natural weather cycles cause fluctuations in populations. Mild winters and warm, dry springs increase hopper populations. Cold, wet weather cause slow development and favor grasshopper diseases. Cool summers and early falls delay maturity and decrease the egg laying period."

Control

If desert surrounds your property it can become very difficult to control grasshoppers because of large populations that can become migratory. Disturbing egg pods in the soil by tilling or plowing will expose egg pods, decreasing their viability. Young small hoppers are easier to control than adults. Picking and squashing" is a time consuming but effective control measure. Several chemicals insecticides will control grasshoppers as well as the abrasive nature of diatomaceous earth. Nosema locustae is a naturally occurring disease organism of grasshoppers. Bran and sweeteners are added to Nosema to attract the hoppers. Grasshopper are cannibalistic and infection spreads as healthy hoppers eat sick ones. Also the females pass this disease on to future generations through laid eggs. Nosema will take longer to destroy grasshopper populations than conventional pesticides. This is a living organism and must be stored in the refrigerator and has a limited shelf life. Contact your local nursery or garden catalog for current recommendations. Always read the label of pesticides and use them accordingly."

Source

Insect Pests of Farm, Garden, and Orchard. 1979. R.H. Davidson and W.F. Lyon. pp. 117-119.

Question:

I see some bees coming around my hummingbird feeder. Is it possible these are the 'killer' bees that have killed dogs and attacked people?

Answer

There is no way of knowing if the bees you see are the Africanized Honeybee (AHB). Visually EHB and AHB are identical to each other. Experts can not tell them apart with out laboratory analysis.

They are not killer bees, even though the media makes it sounds as if these insects require human flesh to complete their life cycle! Honeybees are not native to the Americas. There are six species of honeybees in the world and over 20,000 known species of bees. European Honeybees (EHB) were brought to America by immigrants and known by Native Americans as white man's lice. In the mid 1950s, bee researchers imported some AHB into Brazil to breed with EHB to hopefully increase the EHB's honey production in tropical environments. Some AHB escaped and began moving north. They arrived in south Texas 1992.

Honeybees defend there colonies or home vigorously because this is where their young are reared and food is stored. In nature, bears, skunks and other animals try to steal their stored food. Honeybees are aggravated by motions of larger dark objects, animal smells like leather and perfumes, shampoos and perspiration. Both bee species sting in the same way, going for the head and eyes, with a barbed stinger that remains in the victim. AHB venom is just as potent as EHB venom. Venom is pumped from a bulb on the top end of the stinger through it into flesh. Stingers should be scraped out with a knife, finger nail or credit card. Trying to pull out a stinger will squeeze more venom into the victim's flesh.

A lone foraging bee whether an EHB or AHB will not bother you if you do not bother it. Swarms of honeybees are seen during the spring and summer and with AHB swarm even in the fall and warm winters. About half of the old colonies bees accompany the queen. This is the way that honeybees divide and establish colony and form another. They are not defensive because they are looking for a home and have nothing to defend. Once a place is located by scout bees and the swarm then set up house keeping. When the new colony is established with young and food stores the bees will defend it.

AHB will defend their colony more vigorously than EHB. EHB have been selected and red for centuries to be docile and productive. AHB are just like EHB but just have a bad aggressive attitude. More people die in the United States from lighting than from bee stings. The numbers perhaps will increase with the AHB but will not likely surpass lightning deaths.

It is advised to close holes and cracks in homes, barns and out-buildings that are larger than a pencil eraser. Use caulk, boards or other suitable materials. Make weekly inspections of wood piles, abandoned cars, old tires and junk piles which could make suitable place for swarming bees to establish new colonies. If new colonies are found call certified bee removal personnel such as beekeeper, pest control operators or the Arizona Department of Agriculture so action can be initiated.

If you or someone else is stung run into a house or vehicle to get away from other bees. A sting pheromone alerts other bees to sting also. Do not swat at the bees with your hands and arms just run to safety. If you are out in the open you must run for a quarter or half mile to distance yourself from the bees. We will have to learn to live with AHB but there is little difference from EHB.

Question:

How can I rid my property of gophers? They are making mounds and destroying some trees and bulbs in my garden.

Answer

Pocket gophers are burrowing rodents. So named because they have fur-lined, outer pouches on each cheek, that can be turned inside out to carry food. Pocket gophers are strict herbivores and any animal material in their diets appears to be accidental. These rodents feed on roots, bulbs, corms or rhizomes they encounter when digging. They can pull vegetation into their tunnels from down below. They will also venture out of their runs a body length or so into the open to feed on above ground plant material. Pocket gophers burrows are a system of tunnels totaling up to 200 yards with densities of 6 to 8 rodents per acre a high population. The main burrow is generally 2 to 3 inches in diameter, depending on the size of the occupant and is 4 to 18 inches beneath the soil surface depending on the soil type. Lighter textured sandy soils will have deeper burrows than heavier clay soils. The soils ability to withstand cave-ins determines burrow depth, although some parts of the burrow maybe 5 to 6 feet deep. Deeper branches off of the main burrow are used for nests and food caches. Enlargements along the main burrow are usually feeding and resting stations. Nests chambers are lined with dry grass and other plant materials. A less apparent requirement of burrow depth is the need for fresh air and exhaled gases to pass through the soil to and from the gopher's tunnel. Therefore, heavy clay soils or those that are continuously wet, diffuse gases poorly and are not suitable for gophers. The fan shaped mound of soil seen on the surface is the excavated soil that is pushed out of the main burrow through a lateral branch. Pocket gophers are usually solitary except during the breeding season. Gophers have 1 or 2 litters per year and average 3 to 4 babies per litter, but 1 to 10 may be born. Birth is usually from March through June, after 18 or 19 days of gestation. Predators of pocket gophers that pursue them underground are weasels, perhaps spotted skunks and several snakes including bull and rattlesnakes. Dogs and cats may dig or capture them above ground along with other similar wildlife.

Control

Exclusion cages may be made by using 1/4 to 1/2 inch mesh hardware cloth which are placed in the ground and planted into. Plastic netting placed under newly planted seed beds or bare root plants may slow gophers down. There are no registered chemical repellents other than moth balls which are ineffective. Also noise devices and plants reported to repel pocket gophers have proven to be ineffective. Gopher traps are effective if a gopher runs into one. They are placed in the burrow and should have a wire or twine tied to the trap and an above ground stake so it can be retrieved when a gopher is caught. Perhaps the best way to rid your garden is to use toxic baits. These are usually grains that have be coated with poison. Currently the anitcoagulant chlorophacinone formulated with a 0.005% active ingredient is available. This product is placed on grain and then formed in to small bars which are held together with a waxy material. Another poison is zinc phosphide, (2% active ingredient), is also available as a grain bait. The best way to find the burrow is with a pointed steel rod cane that is used by probing the area a foot or two away from a mound. Remember that the mound is a short lateral tunnel off of the main burrow where soil is removed from the burrow. When a burrow is found the rod will go easily through the soil. Dig down to the tunnel, locating the burrow hole on each sides of the hole you dug. Place some bait in each burrow hole and cover the baited burrow hole with a weed or grass so that backfill soil will not fall on top of the bait. Fill in the hole and then knock down any of the soil mounds within a 10 to 15 foot radius of where you dug a hole. Come back in a week and see if there are new mounds and bait those. Over time you will get the pocket gophers under control.

Source

Controlling Pocket Gophers in New Mexico. New Mexico State University Extension Publication 400 L-2, pp. 5.

Question:

Should I fertilize and water my outdoor plants during the winter?

Answer

Fertilizing of trees and shrubs during the winter in the High Desert should not be done. Fertilizer could stimulate plants to come out of dormancy, start new growth and winter damage could occur. These plants are resting" above the ground but do have activity in the roots if soil temperatures are warm. Normally trees and shrubs that go into winter with adequate soil moisture do not need watering during the winter. Usually winter rains or snow provide enough water. Deciduous plants do not need much water because the leaves, where transpiration occurs, are gone and nutrients needed for growth are not required because there is no shoot growth. The same holds true for most evergreen plants. When the air temperatures are cold and sunlight is reduced, why grow? However, if winter moisture is not sufficient to keep the roots moist they will die. If no winter moisture occurs for four to six weeks then water."

Question:

We are having problems with deer eating leaves and shoots on our fruit trees. We have a 4 foot high fence which obviously is not high enough to keep them out. I've been thinking of installing a one or two strand electric fence above the existing one so the fence is about 6 or 7 feet high. I have also heard about baiting the electric fence to train the deer to keep away. Do you have any advise on this subject?

Answer

Yes, a taller fence can keep out most deer. Deer will also crawl under fences if not close to the ground and secure. Deer have hollow hairs that do not conduct electricity and so they do not get shocked by electric fences. You can train them however. The most effective way that I know of is by making 2-3 inch wide strips of aluminum foil and maybe a foot long. Heavy duty foil is the most robust. Fold the foil over the wire and staple the strip ends together. Place some peanut butter on the foil. Place these training devices" every 20 feet or so a long the fence. Electrify the fence. Because of the dry conditions we are experiencing there is a lack of native vegetation. Hunger and thirsty wildlife will take chances they normal would not while looking for food and/or water. If you create a garden oasis in the desert you will have more wildlife pressure during drought conditions."

Question:

What is chewing out perfect circles on the leaves of my plants?

Answer

This is the work of the Leafcutter Bee (Megachile sidalceae). Leafcutter bees are solitary, small bees with black or gray bodies with white hair forming bands on the abdomen. Females cut out plant material from roses, ash, redbud, and other plants with smooth leaves. She uses the materials to construct cells and gathers pollen and nectar to make bee bread for the cell. She then lays eggs on the bee bread and closes the cell. Although unsightly, the damage leafcutter bees do to plants is cosmetic and will not kill the plant. No control is necessary. Bees are very important pollinators. Insects and animals pollinate over 70 percent of crops that we rely on for food, fibers, and medicines and 90 percent of landscape flowering plants, shrubs, and trees. Bees foraging for nectar and pollen in the garden are harmless and will not sting unless provoked to do so."

Question:

There are hundreds of thousands, perhaps even millions of insects that are long and black with grey spots that look like beetles have been swarming onto our property. They have been stripping our trees and vegetable garden with their voracious appetites. What are these insects? We have sprayed them and they die quite easily. What can we do about them?

Answer

What you have experienced are blister beetles. In particular the spotted blister beetle, Epicauta maculata, according to my reference books. There are other types of blister beetles that have stripes or are solid black in color and even a metallic Arizona blister beetle. Blister beetles are elongated beetles 3/8 to 1 1/8" long. Their broad head is usually wider than their prothorax and connected by a narrow neck. The wings and body are soft and frequently the tip of the abdomen is exposed. Eggs clusters of up to 100 are laid in holes in the soil and hatch in 10 to 21 days. Larvae burrow in search of grasshopper eggs, pupate in 2 weeks, and over winter in the soil. Larvae are beneficial. One larvae can destroy 30 or more grasshopper eggs, which is the total laid by a single grasshopper. The active parasitic larvae can gain access to bee nests by attaching themselves to foraging bees. Adults of the several species have similar habits. They appear in the late spring through summer. The entire population will emerge in a very short period and forage on many different host plants. They feed on foliage, usually in large numbers, and after defoliating a plant will migrate to others. Usually only one generation is produced each year. All species contain a blistering substance, cantharadin. This material is extracted from a species in southern Europe, the Spanishfly, and used as a drug. Some species will secrete blistering materials or oily substances as a defensive action. Sometimes alfalfa hay that is bailed will have large populations in it and when eaten by livestock can cause blisters in the mouth and on the tongue, causing sores that will cause animals to stop eating because of the pain.

Source

How to Know the Insects. 1978. Roger G. Bland and H.E. Jaques. Page 223. Insect Pests of Farm, Garden, and Orchard, 7th Edition. 1979. Ralph H. Davidson and William F. Lyon. Pages 265-266.

Pages